Copyright © 1996-Present. This website created, designed and maintained by Brian Miller
No registration or password required, no automatic popups, no spyware, adware, viruses, Trojan Horses or malicious codes inside. If you have any problems with any of my web sites, please let me know and I will correct it/them immediately! All of my web sites are easy to navigate, too...no tricky links or shenanigans! Also, all my web sites are educational, easy to understand, safe and enjoyable to read for all ages! The information in my web sites is more understandable and direct than any Kohler or Cub Cadet publication. And it's best to use the newest version of Google Chrome or Microsoft's Internet Explorer web browsers to experience all the effects of my web sites. Optimized for 1024 x 768 screen resolution. To search for a word or phrase in any of my web sites, press CTRL and F to open the Find dialog box in your web browser.
Liability Disclaimer and Privacy Statement:
These Web sites are a publication of Brian Miller. Every attempt is made to ensure the information is accurate and up-to-date. However, I make no warranty or guarantee regarding the accuracy of information in my sites. Users requesting accuracy confirmation and FREE professional technical questions may contact me via e-mail address noted at the bottom of any of my web pages. Brian Miller is not responsible for the content or accuracy in any of my web sites, the sites that are linked to or referenced from any of my sites; nor do I necessarily endorse the web sites linked to or referenced from any of my sites. Use these Tips and Tricks at your own risk. You are responsible for what you do to your engine and/or tractor with the information provided in my web sites. Another important thing to remember - If you think that a flywheel, clutch or steering part might fail when pulling, then by all means, either repair or replace it. Never take chances! Because an innocent bystander could get seriously injured or even killed if a questionable part is overlooked. Which in turn would take all the fun out of the sport of pulling. And always make use of proper shielding where necessary, and wheelie bars, even if your club doesn't require them. And if anyone feels uncomfortable using these tips in constructing or modifying a competitive pulling tractor, then please consult with a professional tractor/engine builder for assistance. Remember - as long there's German ingenuity, all hope is not lost. :) Also, if some of my tips and tricks don't help you do well in pulling, install a hood ornament as a good luck charm. :-)
Click Here or Below: Introduction to the Sport of Garden Tractor Pulling
|Engine Performance -
Drive Train Performance -
|Miscellaneous Performance -
Miscellaneous Links -
Whenever I perform a tune-up on a small engine, the very first thing that I check is the compression. I crank the engine over by hand or by pulling the rope slowly to feel for slight resistance when the piston comes up on the compression stroke. Because if it has a broken rod, then that's another story. But if the compression feels adequate, then I check the condition of the spark with a fixed-gap spark tester (not an inline spark tester). If it produces a strong spark, then I test the spark plug that came with the engine for a strong spark as well. If it has a strong spark at the spark plug's tip, then I check the flywheel key to see if it's not sheared. If it's in good condition, then I move on to the carburetor. I remove the float bowl to see if there's any dirt or water in the gas, and I smell the gas for freshness. I also check the carburetor mounting and intake tube to make sure it's fastened tight to the engine block to prevent a vacuum leak. If any of these things are at fault, then I correct it. I do all of these things in this order on every customer's lawn mower that comes in my shop to rule out all possibilities. Because working in reverse gets very little done. And I have never used starting fluid (ether) on any engine that comes in my shop for repairs. Because I figure if an engine will not start on gas that's in the carburetor, then it will not start at all.
If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in the linked websites, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; when leaving a voice message, please speak slowly when giving your phone number). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival. E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle, tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we can provide many more parts and services.) Please click here to place an order.
To place an order, please call the number below Ê or send an email with your name, complete and correct postal address and phone number and so I can figure the total with shipping cost and USPS Tracking. For payment options for parts ordered or services performed, or to make a donation to my websites, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge), Western Union Money Transfer, MoneyGram Money Transfers or Popmoney. (If a part for a specific purpose is special ordered, your debit/credit card may be charged for the full amount or as a deposit right after your order is placed; please do not send your debit/credit card information in email!) Or you can pay me through PayPal. (My PayPal account name is my email address. And be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment is for.) If sending a money order, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone number and a description of what the payment is for. My mailing address and phone number are below Ê . I'll make a note of your order, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send the parts to you as soon as I have everything in stock after I receive your payment.
IMPORTANT - When sending your part(s) to me for rebuilding or repair, package everything securely so the item(s) won't get damaged in shipping and please include a note in the box with your name, mailing address, phone number (in case I have any questions) and a description of what you want done. When shipping heavy parts, it's best to put a slightly smaller box inside a larger box, to double the strength and integrity of the package. Because the clumsy "gorillas" or incompetent and uncaring workers that work for certain delivery services mishandle the heavy packages and don't care. And when the work is completed, I'll either call or email you an invoice with the total including shipping and handling.
To figure the shipping cost, I weigh the package with the parts, then I go online to the USPS Postage Rate Calculator website. I type in the weight, my zip code and your zip code, then it shows me the prices for various ways to ship the package. I always choose US Postal Service because I believe that's the most fastest, economical and reliable method.
Shipping: (United States and it's territories)
To save you shipping charges, item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 13 oz. is sent by First Class Mail for a 2-6 day delivery. Most packaged item(s) weighing over 13 oz. is sent by US Priority Mail for a 2-3 day delivery. To save you even more on shipping heavy items, I always try to use the US Postal Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelope and boxes (if the item(s) can fit inside the envelope or boxes). Some heavy items weighing no more than 70 lbs. is sent by US Mail Parcel Post. Item(s) weighing over 70 lbs. is sent by FedEx Ground. Again, if you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally drop off and/or pick up your engine, transaxle, tractor, etc.
We Ship to Canada and Worldwide
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S. territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground or equivalent services.
To make a payment to me through PayPal, go to PayPal's secure website ( https://www.paypal.com/ ) and click on Send and Request -> Pay for goods or services. Type in my email address, or copy and paste this: email@example.com, the amount and follow the directions. Be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment is for. After you've finished, PayPal will send me an email notifying me that you have made a payment to me for the product(s) or services and amount entered. Then I go to their website and direct PayPal to deposit the money in my bank account. And I will send the parts to you as soon as I receive your payment. But I may have to order some of the parts if they're not in stock, which should take a few days. In that case, I will send you the parts as soon as they come in. PayPal protects your financial privacy and security. With PayPal, privacy is built in. It's a way for you to pay without exposing their financial information.
|If you wish to have your Kohler stock or pulling engine
tested on a
(dyno), please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old
Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; when leaving a voice message, please speak slowly
when giving your phone number). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays,
9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When
speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's
shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays.
Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who
don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and
fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we
can provide many more parts and services.)
A-1 Miller's Fully Computerized Stuska Water Brake Engine Dynamometer (Dyno) Service with DPM Data Logger Software!
For performance testing engines up to 200hp at speeds up to 12,000 RPM. The only engine dyno service in Missouri for Kohler pulling engines! Fully operational and 100% accurate, customers can rent dyno time, fine tune and make adjustments or changes to their engines to gain maximum horsepower and torque, and print-out the results so their tractor(s) will be truly competitive on the track. With an engine dyno, the puller can adjust their engine to get maximum horsepower and torque, and gear their tractor appropriately to have an advantage over the competition. NOTE: A fresh-built engine may not produce full power until it's broke-in. This is when the valves wear-in with the seats to completely seal in the compression. The rings will likely hold the compression, but the valves may leak slightly until they wear into the seats. This is normal for all engines and may take several hours or pulls to happen, then the valves will be able to hold full compression. Lots of pullers tell me after I've built their engines that it seems to pull stronger every time they pull it.
Engine Dyno Rental Fee: $50.00 per hour run time from the moment the engine is started. No setup fee for Cub Cadet engines with a 3- or 6-pin/stud clutch driver. An adapter may need to be needed or fabricated for other makes and models of engines. Only engines with the narrow base oil pan can be tested. Engines with the wide base (tall) oil pan cannot be tested at this time.
Coming Soon - Detailed Illustrated Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back and Self-Propelled Garden Tractor Pulling Sled. FYI - The professionally-built self-propelled pulling sled, Track Master (click the picture to the right to see a larger image of this sled), is the only one I've ever built and I got it right the first time, with very few changes that had to be made to it. I guess I'm just one of those kind of guys that knows what he's doing. Pullers really like pulling our sled, too. They say it's the best sled they've ever pulled. (Not bragging, just stating a fact.) By the way - Track Master sled is engineered so well (by Brian Miller), that other sled builders/owners have copied my well thought-out and proven design. Anyway, I have lots of work to do in my shop and I work on the sled plans in my spare time. As soon as my plans with an inventory list of parts to use are perfected, I'll post the update in my websites. Remember - Perfection takes time. If it's worth having, it's worth waiting for. Also, I plan to acquire a bigger shop and I may build high quality garden tractor pulling sleds in the future to offer for sale. Please call me at 573-256-0313 (shop) or 573-881-7229 (cell; when leaving a voice message, please speak slowly when giving your phone number), or email me at firstname.lastname@example.org if you're interested. - Brian Miller
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Copyright © 1996-Present. This website created, designed and maintained by Brian Miller.