Please check out: HOT ROD GARDEN TRACTOR PULLERS ASSOCIATION
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A Typical Competitive Garden Pulling Tractor Would Tech Out Like This:
NOTE: Please check the linked web sites below for updates because I'm always learning, doing research and thinking of new things. Therefore, I add new proven information regarding the latest technology used in garden tractor pulling.
Go here first ð Introduction to the Sport of Garden Tractor Pulling or scroll down further. Ê
|Engine Performance -
Drive Train Performance -
Miscellaneous Performance -
|Miscellaneous Links -
For questions or technical information, please contact:
For questions, please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-875-4033. Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) Fax: 1-573-449-7347. E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org. You can also contact us through Yahoo! Messenger: Find us here: Directions to our shop | Yahoo! Maps, 1501 W. Old Plank Rd., Columbia, MO | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest.
What is Tractor Pulling?
Tractor pulling competition is when a special-built weighted pulling vehicle or tractor pulls (or drags) a mechanical weight transfer machine, which is more commonly known as a "sled," on a dirt (clay) track of a specific distance, which is usually a maximum of 300 feet in length. As the vehicle pulls the sled down the track, ballast (weights) that's in a box which is positioned at the rear of the sled is automatically transferred (mechanically winched) forward on the frame of the sled. This transfer of weight, or ever-increasing of weight, creates friction between the skid pan (that's part of the front of the sled) and the ground, and that in turn makes the sled harder to pull, eventually stopping the vehicle. The winner is determined by not how fast a pulling vehicle goes down the track, but who drags the sled the farthest. In other words, it's not a race, it's a pulling event. Go here for more information: Tractor pulling - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Garden tractor pulling can be a fun and safe sport for the entire family. If done fairly, garden tractor pulling helps build good character and sportsmanship in people of all ages. Sports has always been considered a healthy outlet for young people. A chance for young people to learn how to win or rather lose. But most importantly, how to play by the rules, which help keep them out of trouble at home and with the law. Kids also need proper parental guidance so they can live a happier, healthier and more fulfilling adulthood. I think this is a good sport for people of all ages (as long as they can safely operate a tractor). Sons, daughters, nieces, nephews and any other kid who has gotten bored and are running the streets too much. If you have the means to spend some money to help kids go down the right path and have good clean fun, then garden tractor pulling is for you and your family.
The sport of pulling can be a fun and exciting family activity. With the right club, garden tractor pulling can be very affordable and a lot of fun for the entire family and/or with friends. Just an average pickup truck and a small to medium sized trailer is all that's needed to haul the garden tractor(s) to and from the pulls. Garden tractor pulling also helps to bring families and friends closer together. (A broken tractor is easier to fix than a broken family.) You and your family and/or friends get to travel to other towns (sometimes out of state), see the beautiful countryside and interesting sights along the way while on the road, meet interesting people, have a chance to be with other pullers who share your interests and make new friends, dine at nice restaurants, even stay at a motel before or after a pull! Traveling to and from a pull should be half the fun! While at a pull site, if it's at a county fair, there's usually other activities also. When the pull is over, the kids can go on the carnival rides. They're usually free, because most of the time there's free admission [for pullers and helpers] to the fair! And please remember, ALWAYS drive careful, get plenty of rest before starting a long trip so you'll be alert for unexpected events while on the road, and definitely wear your seat belts!
Garden tractor pulling is a sport, just like any other sport. Some people like to go fishing. Some play golf at a country club. Others do tractor (or truck) pulling. All of these activities are considered sports, which is supposed to be fun and relaxing. If a tractor does well at a pull, and if there's prize money to be won, most of the time the prize money usually isn't that great. In fact, the winner would be lucky to make gas money. But it's fun to compete, test your mechanical skills on the tractor and driving skills on the track. Garden tractor pulling is not only appropriate for the whole family, but actually makes people feel encouraged, inspired, and challenged. It's also a good excuse to get your mind off your daily job and routine life, and it's a good reason to get away from home for a while, like a short vacation. And if you think about it, it's mental therapy or a great stress relief. It's an "escape" to maintain yours and your family's or friend's sanity. Also, tractor pullers are like a big family, not bound together by a blood relation, but by a common interest. Many of them are hard working, honest people that have a family to support.
Always Wear a Helmet When Pulling!
I know for a fact that some pullers don't wear a seat belt in their vehicles while traveling or on their way to and from the pulls. (Safety must be the last thing on their mind.) But unlike seat belts, wearing a helmet isn't only for safety, it makes the puller look PROFESSIONAL to the sponsors, promoters and spectators! Tractor pulling is a spectator entertainment sport, or show business. And to put on a good show, you gotta dress for the part!
And if the sanctioning rules require that long leg pants and closed-end shoes be worn when pulling, if a puller wears shorts, and complain about the summer heat, they can just slip on some sweat pants and closed-end shoes, and then go pull. As long as their legs and feet are covered, that's what matters.
And during the hot summer heat, sometimes tempers will flair at a pull site. It's just human nature. This is something track officials and pullers need to take into consideration when confronting a disgruntled puller. When this happens, just tell them to drink some ice water, go cool off, calm down and gather your thoughts. Because they're not being themselves. It'll be wrong to get upset at them. Because when you're an official of a club, you must delegate authority responsibly.
If you're looking for a quality garden tractor to build up and do some serious pulling with, then what you need is a beltless, non-hydrostatic drive, clutch-driven, manual shift Cub Cadet that was built by International Harvester and the early ones built by MTD (Modern Tool & Die). The best Cub Cadet garden tractors to pull are clutch driven. These models include:
The differences between Cub Cadet frames:
On the Narrow Frame models, the frame rails are the same width the entire length of the tractor. It's designed for a single cylinder engine.
On the Wide Frame models, the frame rails where the engine is located are slightly wider, and taller. It's designed for a single cylinder engine.
And on the Spread Frame models, the frame rails where the engine is located are much lower to clear the cylinders on a twin cylinder flathead engine.
Any hydrostatically driven IH or MTD Cub Cadet garden tractor can be easily converted into a clutch drive tractor using the transaxle and clutch/driveshaft components out of a clutch drive "parts" tractor, as long as the frames on the donor and recipient tractors match. IE: a narrow frame for a narrow frame, a wide frame for a wide frame and a spread frame for a spread frame. The transaxles for all IH and early MTD Cub Cadets are basically the same, rather if it's an internal or external brake design. The clutch/driveshaft components must match the frame of the donor tractor to be converted. For example: to convert an IH Cub Cadet wide frame model 109, 129, 149, 1250, 1450 or 1650 into a clutch/gear drive, the complete clutch assembly with the throw-out bearing release lever and cross bracket, and transaxle from either an IH Cub Cadet model 86, 108, 128, 800, 1000 or 1200 must be used. The brake components will also be needed from these tractors.
Most IH-built Cub Cadets come from the factory with a cast iron K-series Kohler engine. And almost every late model of the spread frame Cub Cadet that's made by either IH or MTD are hydrostatically driven, with the exception of models 582, 1050, 1535, 1606 and 1806 which are all clutch driven with a durable and light-weight MTD-built aluminum case transaxle.
Unlike the IH and early MTD Cub Cadets, most garden tractors that's built nowadays won't be in use 30-40 years from now. They're just not built that good nowadays. This is a well-known and proven fact. If you do have a chance to restore an old Cub Cadet so it's fully operational, you'd probably fall in love with it. Because I think any new garden tractor that's build nowadays can't match the durability and capabilities of the older Cub Cadets. If you do find an older Cub Cadet that's worth the money, and despite the condition it's in, just remember that it's worth repairing. It'll be like restoring an old Chevrolet.
Remember, when building and/or acquiring a pulling tractor, remember - it's best to use what the winners are using - a direct clutch drive (no belt involved) Cub Cadet and use the biggest engine your club's rules allow in its tractor's class. The best Cub Cadet model to use is either: 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124, 126, 86, 108, 128, 800, 1000, 1200, 582, 682, 782, 1282, 982, 1050, 1512, 1535, 1606 or 1806. And there's sanctioning rules with every pulling club or association regarding how a tractor should be built or set up. Not all clubs use the same sanctioning rules and specifications. The rules vary from one club to another. You'll need to contact the person in charge of the club you plan to pull with and acquire a copy of their up-to-date rules and ask their pullers questions before you build a tractor. And while you're at the pulls, look over the pulling tractors and ask the pullers questions regarding how to build a durable and competitive tractor. And remember - if you're going to build it, you might as well build it to win! Go here to find a pulling club near you: Hot Links to Various Garden Tractor Pulling Clubs and Associations.
IH Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Serial Numbers-to-Date Manufactured, up to 1981.
|Model of Tractor
(Click links for identification of tractor.)
|Serial Numbers||Dates Built|
|International "Original" Cub Cadet (This is the very first Cub Cadet model that IH manufactured from 1960 to 1963. That is why it's called the "Original". It has a 7hp Kohler engine with a starter/generator, internal dry band axle brake, 3/8" wide drive belt-to-clutch-disc driveshaft and bolted implements. It has no model number.)||501 to 65547||1960-8/63|
|70, 100 (7hp, 10hp Kohler engine with a starter/generator; narrow frame w/short center section; both of these are clutch driven with an internal brake.)||65458 to 127160||8/63-8/65|
102 (7hp (71), 10hp (102)
Kohler engine with a starter/generator; narrow frame 71 w/short center section;
102 w/tall center section; both of these are clutch driven with an internal
122 (12hp Kohler engine with a starter/generator; narrow frame w/tall center section; clutch drive with external brakes.)
|127161 to 218009||8/65-11/67|
|123 (12hp Kohler engine with a starter/generator; narrow frame w/tall center section; hydrostatic drive with an internal brake.)||157490 to 218009||6/66-11/67|
|72 (7hp Kohler engine
with a starter/generator; narrow frame w/short center section; clutch drive;
104 (10hp Kohler engine with a starter/generator; narrow frame w/tall center section; clutch drive; internal brake.)
105 (10hp Kohler engine with a starter/generator; narrow frame w/tall center section; hydrostatic drive; internal brake.)
124 (12hp Kohler engine with a starter/generator; narrow frame w/tall center section; clutch drive; internal brake.)
125 (12hp Kohler engine with a starter/generator; narrow frame w/tall center section; hydrostatic drive; internal brake.)
|218010 to 306085||11/67-08/69|
|73 (7hp Kohler engine
with a starter/generator; narrow frame w/short center section; clutch drive;
106 (10hp Kohler engine with a starter/generator; narrow frame w/tall center section; clutch drive; external brakes.)
107 (10hp Kohler engine with a starter/generator; narrow frame w/tall center section; hydrostatic drive; external brakes.)
126 (12hp Kohler engine with a starter/generator; narrow frame w/tall center section; clutch drive; external brakes.)
127 (12hp Kohler engine with a starter/generator; narrow frame w/tall center section; hydrostatic drive; external brakes.)
|307000 to 400000||08/69-08/71|
|147 (14hp Kohler engine with a starter/generator; narrow frame w/tall center section; [frame factory widened for an engine with the larger 9½" flywheel and shroud, but never was installed]; hydrostatic drive; external brakes.)||316816 to 400000||11/69-08/71|
|86, 108, 109, 128, 129, 149, 169 (These models have an 8hp, 10hp, 12hp, 14hp and 16hp Kohler engine [respectively] . They have a starter/generator; wide frame, a solid mounted engine, external brakes, mechanical PTO clutch. Models 86, 108 and 128 are clutch driven, the others are hydrostatically driven.)||400001 to 529811||09/71-10/74|
|800 ("Quiet Line" model. Has an 8hp Kohler engine with a gear starter; alternator charging system, clutch drive, wide frame; ISO-mounted engine; external brakes, electric PTO clutch.)||5300001 to 572876||10/74-1/76|
|1100 (The model 1100 was an economy model of the "Quietline" era. It was the only model to use an 11hp horizontal shaft Briggs & Stratton single cylinder engine and a 2300 series Peerless transaxle instead of the heavier IH Cub Cadet transaxle. It's belt driven; spread frame; has an ISO-mounted engine.)||
Serial numbers unknown
|1000, 1200, 1250, 1450, 1650 ("Quiet Line" models. These tractors have a 10hp, 12hp, 14hp and 16hp Kohler engine [respectively] They have rubber motor mounts to reduce engine vibration throughout the tractor for operator comfort. The engine is enclosed with side panels. It also has a gear starter; alternator charging system, wide frame, external brakes, electric PTO clutch, an enclosed engine compartment, and it has an oblong shaped air cleaner assembly that draws air through the flywheel shroud for less noise. Models 1000 and 1200 are clutch driven, the others are hydrostatically driven. The later model quietline tractors, serial #632502 and later, were equipped with 1" diameter front spindles.)||5300001 to 664996||10/74-9/79|
|482 (11hp horizontal shaft Briggs & Stratton engine; belt drive with a 2300 series Peerless transaxle; spread frame; ISO-mounted engine; red in color)||665001 to 688742||9/79-2/81|
|582 (16hp horizontal
shaft Briggs & Stratton twin cylinder engine; clutch drive with an IH
transaxle; spread frame; solid-mounted engine; red in color.)
582 Special (16hp horizontal shaft Briggs & Stratton twin cylinder engine; belt drive w/2300 series Peerless transaxle; spread frame; solid-mounted engine; red in color.)
682, 782 (682 - 19.9hp Onan twin cylinder engine, 782 - Diesel engine; both hydrostatic drive; spread frame; solid-mounted engine; red in color.)
|665001 to 700000||9/79-4/81|
|1282 (12hp Kohler
engine; hydrostatic drive; spread frame; ISO-mounted engine; red in
982 (Onan or Diesel engine; hydrostatic drive; spread frame; ISO-mounted engine; red in color.)
|665001 to 688712||9/79-2/81|
The IH Cub Cadet production ended and the line was sold to MTD/Cub Cadet Corporation in June 1981.
The serial number is located in one of the following locations...
NOTE: The model number of the tractor represents horsepower of the engine, and if it's clutch or hydrostatic drive. Odd numbers are hydrostatic (fluid) drive, and even numbers are clutch (mechanical) drive. Example: Model 104 has a 10hp engine with a clutch drive transaxle, model 105 has a 10hp engine with a hydrostatically driven transaxle, model 122 has a 12hp engine with a gear drive transaxle, model 123 has a 12hp engine with a hydrostatically driven transaxle, etc. The only exceptions are models 71 and 73. They have a 7hp engine, but they're both gear drive. Why that is, I have no idea.
The "wide" frame models can only accept a single cylinder engine. The "spread" frame models can accept either a single cylinder or a twin cylinder engine because the frame rails were made wider and they lay down more to clear the cylinders of a flathead twin opposed cylinder engine.
MTD/Cub Cadet Corporation Garden/Super Garden Tractor Serial Numbers to Date Manufactured, from 1982 to 1997.
|Model of Tractor
All models below have a spread frame, are yellow and white in color and are hydrostatically driven except where specified. The clutch drive models have an MTD aluminum case transaxle. Click links for identification of tractor.
(Use last six numbers)
|482 (belt drive/Peerless transaxle), 580 (belt drive/Peerless transaxle), 582 (clutch drive), 582 Special (belt drive/Peerless transaxle), 680, 682, 782, 784, 982 (Onan), 984, 986||700000 to 712899||1982|
|482 (belt drive/Peerless transaxle), 580 (belt drive/Peerless transaxle), 582 (clutch drive), 582 Special (belt drive/Peerless transaxle), 680, 682, 782, 784, 982 (Onan), 984, 986||712900 to 724524||1983|
|482 (belt drive/Peerless transaxle), 580 (belt drive/Peerless transaxle), 582 (clutch drive), 582 Special (belt drive/Peerless transaxle), 680, 682, 782 (KT17 Series 1 engines installed with serial number 726124 and below; KT17 Series 2 engines installed with serial number 726125 and up), 784, 882 (Diesel), 982 (Onan), 984, 986||724525 to 737624||1984|
|1210, 1512, 1604 (clutch drive), 1606 (clutch drive), 1710, 1711, 1712, 1912, 1914||737625 to 747224||1985|
|1210, 1512, 1604 (clutch drive), 1606 (clutch drive), 1810, 1811, 1812, 1912, 1914||747225 to 756299||1986|
|1204, 1210, 1211, 1512, 1572, 1806 (clutch drive), 1810, 1811, 1812, 1872, 2072||756300 to 766351||1987|
|1204, 1210, 1211, 1572, 1806 (clutch drive), 1810, 1811, 1812, 1872, 2072||767352 to 779096||1988|
|1050 (clutch drive), 1210, 1211, 1772 (Diesel), 1806 (clutch drive), 1810, 1811, 1812, 1872, 2072||779097 to 799999||1989|
|1340, 1535 (clutch drive), 1540, 1782, 1860, 1862, 1882, 2082, 2182||800000 to 811671||1990|
|1340, 1535 (clutch drive), 1541, 1782, 1860, 1862, 1882, 2082, 2182||811672 to 821059||1991|
|1440, 1641, 1782, 1861, 1862, 2082, 2182||821101 to 836000||1992|
|1440, 1641, 1782, 1863, 1864, 2082, 2182||836001 to 851000||1993|
|1440, 1641, 1782, 1863, 1864, 2084, 2182||851001 to 864500||1994|
|1440, 1641, 1782, 1863, 1864, 2182, 2284||864501 to 880000||1995|
|1440, 1641, 1782, 1863, 1864, 2086, 2284||880001 to 889000||1996|
|1440, 1641, 1863, 1864, 2086, 2284||889001 to 899000||1997|
|The above are the last of the "true garden tractors" with the traditional IH-designed frame. See these web sites for more information: Cub Cadet.html Page and Cub Cadet Garden Tractor by International Harvester Unofficial Home Page.|
How to Make a Hydrostatic Drive Garden Tractor a Competitive Pulling Tractor -
Simply install a set of much stiffer matching pressure relief springs in the hydraulic valve assembly so when the tractor (hydrostatic system) is under severe strain, less oil pressure will by-pass the hydraulic motor and return or circulate back to the hydraulic pump. In other words, this will allow more oil pressure to be applied to the hydraulic motor. Use SAE 30 weight hydraulic oil to help increase the pressure, too. And the tractor will definitely need a healthy or bigger engine, preferably one that's built to the max to increase the torque.
The Magnum engines replaced the K-series in later years. The Magnum engines are basically the same engine as the K-series. The main differences are, besides the sheet metal that covers the block, the Magnum has solid state electronic ignition, a fixed main jet (Walbro) carburetor and the starter fastens to the bearing plate instead of the engine block. And there are no provisions for using ignition points. Most of the external and all the internal parts are interchangeable, and most aftermarket (high-performance) parts are interchangeable with either engine.
A Magnum model M10, M12, M14 or M16 (10-16hp) engine can be used in a Cub Cadet. The block will need to be converted to a narrow base by cutting off the flanges on each side and cut threads in the holes in the block for a narrow oil pan. Also, because of the 3/8" flywheel retaining bolt, an aluminum clutch hub adapter with a 3/8" hole will need to be used, acquire a 5/8" to 3/8" reducer/step washer. (I make these.) Everything else should fit in the tractor with no problems.
If you need an engine, look in our advertisement web site or you can place a want ad in the same site. Or, call or visit your local small engine, lawnmower or tractor sales/repair shops. Sometimes they have old Cub Cadets sitting around that people sell or trade in for a new garden tractor. To identify certain models of IH Cub Cadets, check out our web site HERE.
A word of caution before purchasing a used pulling engine: BUYER BEWARE! Remove the cylinder head and oil pan (they're easy to remove), and then inspect the internal parts for damage and/or excessive wear. If the seller refuses to allow the head and pan to be removed, then it'll probably be best not to purchase the engine.
And if you're looking for some yellow paint to paint your Cub Cadet with, try your local farm and home supply store. They usually have International Harvester Yellow. It closely matches the color of Cub Cadet yellow.
An aluminum engine block will "bend and twist" or flex a few thousands of an inch when hot and under pulling stress. Therefore, they'll lose valuable compression because the valves become unseated and the piston rings lose partial contact against the cylinder wall. Not to mention the main bearings are also put into a bind under the stress of pulling.
Cast iron engine blocks on the other hand hold their shape a lot better when hot and under stress. Aluminum engines work best for conditions that doesn't place them in a lot of stress. Such as ATVs, racing go-karts, racing lawn mowers, etc. Because there's fresh air moving over the engine, keeping the metal cool, and the block isn't being strained by the vehicle pulling a heavy load. This is why the cast iron block Kohler engines work best for competitive pulling. I think that Kohler is the best engine for pulling. They're the "Chevrolet" of garden tractor pulling engines. Because cast iron is able to "hold its shape," handle high operating temperatures, severe stress, high compression and high rpm. This is why most riding mowers, lawn tractors and lawn & garden tractors have aluminum block engines. And most garden tractors have a cast iron engine block.
In addition, on the cast iron block single cylinder Briggs & Stratton and Tecumseh engines, the valve stems are parallel to the cylinder. This means that the valve heads set further away from the piston. And in the cast iron block single cylinder Kohler engines, the valve heads set closer to the piston (valve stems are angled). Therefore, Kohler are capable of producing more compression, and they can flow the air better in and out of the combustion chamber at high rpm.
If you decide to build a pulling tractor, and if you want to be competitive, then it's best to use a clutch drive Cub Cadet. Also, there's sanctioning rules with every pulling club or association regarding how the tractor and engine should be built or set up. Not all clubs use the same rules and specifications. Rules vary from one club to another. You'll need to contact the person in charge of the club you plan to pull with and acquire a copy of their up-to-date rules and ask their pullers questions before you start to build a tractor. And while you're at the pulls, look over the pulling tractors and ask pullers questions regarding how to build a durable and competitive tractor. Most pullers will be honest with you, while some will give you misleading information, which I think isn't right. In this competitive sport, use your best judgment and don't believe everything you hear from other pullers.
If you don't want to embarrass yourself in front of the spectators, then don't waste your time, money and materials on something less than a true-to-it's-name garden tractor. Stamped steel frame lawn tractors (MTD, Murray, etc.) simply cannot compete against the power and torque or muscle of a true garden tractor. If you want to win or at least do well at the pulls and look good doing it, then get yourself a clutch-drive Cub Cadet, and use the stamped steel frame lawn tractors to mow your lawn with. Or adapt the lawn tractor sheet metal (hood, grill, fenders, steering support column, etc.) onto a Cub Cadet chassis.
To be competitive in garden tractor pulling, what you need is a garden tractor that has an automotive-type frame, horizontal engine, a cast iron transaxle and 12" diameter, 5-lug rear wheels. It can be belt drive, too. Look for a good-size Wheel Horse or a Sears Suburban. They're the most popular and least expensive to build up for pulling in a stock class. Fact is, the drive belt on some garden tractors robs the engine of power. The Cub Cadet on the other hand use a direct drive clutch/driveshaft system, which is much like the ones that's used in automobiles. You get more power to the track with a Cub Cadet. Belt-driven garden tractors, such as Wheel Horse, Sears Suburban, etc., do very well in the stock classes with a limited horsepower engine, but if you want to move up into a more powerful or highly modified class, the Cub Cadet is the only way to go. They've been proven to be the most competitive garden tractor for pulling that's available.
Certain models of John Deere and Massey Ferguson garden tractors have a variable speed control called a "Variator," which is a factory-installed lever positioned on the right of the steering wheel. Most Cub Cadet pullers call this a "cheater stick." When it's pulled back, it slows the tires down to reserve engine power. In pulling, this feature allows the tractor to have plenty of ground speed upon takeoff and go down the track at full speed, and when the weight of the sled comes up on the tractor, and if the engine begins to bog down or lose power, the operator can pull back on the lever, slowing down the tires, so the engine will have more reserve power to "chug, chug" a little further down the track. It'll be nice if Cub Cadets had this feature too, but it only comes on certain other makes and models of belt-driven garden tractors.
And the reason there's different classes for pulling tractors is because some tractors come with a bigger engine and some weigh more than others. A tractor with a big engine will undoubtedly out-pull a tractor with a small engine. And the same goes for a tractor that weighs more than the others. Therefore, most pulling clubs try to match the engine size and the weight of any particular tractor (with the driver) so they'll be competitive within their class.
Ever noticed how there's always more Cub Cadets at the pulls than any other make of garden tractor? That's because the Cub Cadet is capable of transferring more usable horsepower and torque to the rear tires through a unique direct-drive disc clutch system much like the ones used in automobiles, farm tractors, etc. And, there's more high performance parts readily available for the IH Cub Cadet and Kohler engine than any other make of garden tractor or engine.
One of the most popular bodies to adapt onto an IH Cub Cadet frame is from certain models of John Deere garden tractors. The reason for this is many pullers like the John Deere so well, but sometimes they can't out-pull a Cub Cadet. So they create a "generic" John Deere garden tractor. That's when the John Deere body parts are integrated onto a Cub Cadet frame. The Cub Cadet frames that's suitable for the John Deere body parts are: 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 147 (narrow frames; because these models have the tall center section), and any wide or spread frame model. If the JD body parts are installed correctly and the entire tractor is painted the traditional JD green and yellow, the tractor will have the appearance of a genuine John Deere, but the pulling components and power of a Cub Cadet. Many pullers do this. Like the old saying goes: "If you can't beat 'em, join 'em!"
Ever noticed at the pulls, how many genuine Cub Cadets show up, but very few John Deeres (or is it pronounced "John Deere"? hmmm) are there? With a generic John Deere doing well at the pulls, this puts the Deere name out front. Hence, "Nothing runs like a Deere!" But nothing pulls like a Cub Cadet!
Of course, the body components of other makes and models of popular garden tractors, such as Wheel Horse, etc., can be integrated onto a Cub Cadet frame as well. It just takes some time and effort to figure out how to adapt the parts so it'll look original.
Most rules require "a garden tractor frame." Therefore, most pullers prefer to use the later model "wide" and "spread" Cub Cadet frames. They're strongest frames for use with a high horsepower engine. They're more rigid and flex less than the older narrow frames. Frame flex absorbs horsepower and torque, which must be transferred to the ground through the rear tires. The "wide" frame were originally manufactured to make room for the small gear starter and large flywheel on the 10hp-16hp single cylinder Kohler engine. And the "spread" frame were originally manufactured for a twin cylinder engine, but a single cylinder Kohler engine can be easily installed with no adjustments.
The manufacturer didn't exactly design the Cub Cadet (or virtually any garden tractor) to be fitted with a powerful engine, being weighted down, using 26-12.00x12 cut tread tires and pulling several thousand pounds of stubborn weight with. Therefore, it's necessary to "beef up" the engine, drivetrain, transaxle and chassis to be truly competitive and to keep parts from breaking. If you're wanting to win, you might as well build it to win!
Personally, I think it's best to convert a Cub Cadet (or any garden tractor) that's dilapidated or near to being a "piece of junk" into a pulling tractor. Because it'll be a shame to convert a nice looking, fully functional and useful mowing/utility tractor into strictly a pulling tractor. Besides, for it to be truly competitive, the entire tractor, including the engine, drivetrain, transaxle and chassis, will all need to be completely disassembled, reinforced and rebuilt/built-up from the ground up or from scratch. So why not do it with something that will need to be totally rebuilt anyway? Because if it's not rebuilt/built-up now or before the pull(s), you may be wishing it was. And don't be surprised or disappointed when (not if) changes will need to be made to the tractor so it'll be more competitive. This is part of the learning process, using the latest technology, being competitive and enjoying the sport.
For new high performance parts and used Cub Cadet tractors/engines, check out these Vendors. By the way - know what out-pulls a Cub Cadet? Another Cub Cadet! Of course, other makes and models of garden tractors are competitive, too.
When building a pulling tractor, remember - it's best to use what the winners are using - a clutch drive Cub Cadet and the biggest engine that's allowed in your class. And there's sanctioning rules with every pulling club or association regarding how a tractor should be built or set up. Not all clubs use the same rules and specifications. These rules vary from one club to another. You'll need to contact the person in charge of the club you plan to pull with and acquire a copy of their up-to-date rules and ask their pullers questions before you start to build a tractor. And while you're at the pulls, look over the other pulling tractors and ask the pullers questions regarding how to build a durable and competitive tractor.
A "V" belt will rob an engine of power simply because it "rubs" in the pulleys due to friction and that's how they grip to transmit power. If you were to place the transmission in neutral with the engine at a slow idle on a belt drive mower/garden tractor, then release the clutch pedal, you'll notice that the engine will slow down some. The tighter the belt, the slower the engine will idle. That's why V belts are noisy on some older automobiles. And that's also why auto manufacturers nowadays use a single serpentine belt to drive all the power accessories. Serpentine belts robs an engine of less power and it helps to get better fuel mileage. Direct drive Cub Cadets use no belts in the drive train. This means no power loss whatsoever.
Although sometimes a belt drive tractor will do very well in the stock class(es), they tend to lag behind in the higher horsepower class(es). But if you really like your V belt tractor and want to be a competitive puller in the higher horsepower classes, you'll have to adapt your V belt garden tractor fenders, hood, grill, etc., onto a Cub Cadet frame and drive train.
But if you do run a belt-driven garden tractor for pulling (that's obviously going to be used in a stock class), the things I can suggest to keep the drive belt from slipping are:
To speed up your tractor some, use a slightly larger pulley on the engine and/or a slightly smaller pulley on the rear end. To slow it down, just do the opposite. And you may have to use a different length belt. Actually, it's best to use a garden tractor that has a variable speed drive. And the only place that sells gears for a Peerless transaxle is a Tecumseh Engine dealer. And there are no special Peerless gears made for pulling. The only alternative is to change the diameter of the pulleys on the engine and transaxle to change the ground speed of the tractor.
To prevent this from happening, fabricate and install two heavy belt guides so the belt will stay on the pulley. Make the guides L shape, from mild steel, 3/16" thick x 1" wide x whatever length they need to be. Then with the tension tight on the belt, fasten the guides to the engine block (or tractor frame) close as possible to the drive pulley with the long part of the guide spaced 1/8" from the outside edge of the belt. Position one guide over the belt where it goes onto the pulley and the other guide under the belt where it comes off the pulley. Secure them in place so they won't slip. I've done this many times with my customer's riding mowers and garden tractors drive and driven pulleys and mower deck pulleys, and if installed correctly, it works great!
To start out in pulling, an ordinary riding mower or lawn & garden tractor can be used for tractor pulling. People do it all the time. Just remember that the sled will need to be lightweight and the tractors will need a low hitch height (below the centerline of the rear axle) to prevent from breaking the transaxle and they'll need wheelie bars for safety.
For questions or technical information, please contact:
A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-875-4033. Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) Fax: 1-573-449-7347. E-mail: email@example.com. You can also contact us through Yahoo! Messenger: Find us here: Directions to our shop | Yahoo! Maps, 1501 W. Old Plank Rd., Columbia, MO | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest.
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Looking for a place to pull your tractor? Then check out this web site: Hot Links for Various Garden Tractor Pulling Clubs and Associations.
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