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Electrical Solutions for Small Engines and Garden Pulling Tractors

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Be Professional With Your Tractor's Wiring!

First of all, an engine's ignition system is completely separate from its electrical system. One has absolutely nothing to do with the other, except in battery-powered ignition systems, the electrical system supplies power to the ignition system.

When connecting the wires for an electrical system, don't just make a connection by twisting bare wires together by hand and taping them up. All this does is allow moisture between the wires and in time, lets corrosion set in, causing a faulty connection. Instead, solder the wires together, then tape them up with electrical tape or use heat-shrink wrap of the correct size. Or for a "clean" and professional look, use "crimp" style wire connectors to connect two wires together, or connect a wire to a coil stud terminal or switch terminal. Use a wire stripper / crimp connector tool to secure the crimp connectors to the wire. Use a bench vise to crimp heavy connectors to battery cables. Route the wiring along the inside of the frame in a safe and secure manner, away from the spinning flywheel and clutch/driveshaft, moving levers, and hot exhaust areas.

When removing and installing the engine in and out of a garden pulling tractor (or any vehicle as far as this subject is concerned), for whatever reason, install male and female bullet or spade quick disconnect electrical connectors (or any type of quick disconnect electrical connectors as long as they're insulated from the engine and tractor/vehicle frame) in the wiring circuit that's connected to the points, ignition module, coil, charging system, or anything else that's wired to the engine, except for the heavy battery cable that connects to the starter motor. The use of quick disconnect electrical connectors allows for much easier and quicker disconnection of the wires. Example: Before removing engine, the points cover will need to be removed, then the wire needs to be disconnected from the points terminal screw; and then remove the nuts from the ignition coil and then take a chance on losing one of the small nuts. No tools are required for use with quick disconnect electrical connectors either. No need to unscrew this, unbolt that, just unplug the connectors by hand to remove the engine, and plug them back together after reinstalling the engine. It's that simple. Many professional race cars, funny cars, dragsters and NASCAR use this method to speed up the quick engine rebuild or swap process in the pit area at the track on race day. And most electronic appliances, such as computers, TVs, etc., used this method for many years to simplify removing and installing circuit boards and various components. Makes life a lot easier.

Always install either an in-line fuse holder, in-dash fuse holder or an automotive auto-reset circuit breaker in the primary wire that's connected directly to the positive (+) battery post. (The small wire that provides power to all electrical components.) But if using an automatic-reset circuit breaker in a garden pulling tractor, don't fasten it to any part of the tractor! Instead, allow it to dangle free by the wires (hide it inside the steering pedestal assembly), but wrap electrical tape around it so the terminals won't short out against any bare metal part of the tractor. The reason the circuit breaker shouldn't be mounted solid to any part of the tractor is because at high RPM or wide open throttle, normal single cylinder engine vibrations, that's transferred throughout the entire tractor, will cause the bimetallic strip (contact spring or "flapper") inside the breaker to vibrate (a lot) and become momentarily and erratically disconnected, causing the engine to misfire badly and "cut out" while going down the track. Having a fuse or circuit breaker (and amp gauge if the engine has a charging system) installed is very important to prevent failure of electrical components. By the time you smell something burning or see smoke, it may be too late.

To determine the size of fuse or circuit breaker, figure how many amps all the connected electrical accessories draw, then use a fuse or circuit breaker with an amp rating slightly higher to prevent the fuse from burning out or the circuit breaker from overloading and popping. If a short occurs, the fuse will need to be replaced and the circuit breaker will automatically reset itself.


Testing the Starting Circuit -

To test the starting circuit on virtually any lawn, garden or larger tractor, first, make sure that the battery is fully charged and in good condition, and the cables have a good connection. Use a Battery Load Tester to determine the condition of the battery. If the battery is satisfactory and the connections are good, using either a screwdriver, metal rod or jumper wire, energize the starter solenoid/relay by connecting the large terminal on the solenoid/relay where the heavy battery wire connects, to the small "S" terminal on the solenoid/relay where the starter switch connects. The starter should spin and crank the engine. If it doesn't, then the solenoid/relay is defective.

When testing the starting circuit with a fully charged jumper/booster battery, connect the negative lead to the chassis/engine ground and touch the positive lead directly to the terminal on the starter motor. If the engine cranks, then the problem is in the solenoid/relay, starter switch or wiring. But if it just spins without engaging into the flywheel, then the gear teeth are worn or the gear is binding on the spiral. But if the starter motor does nothing or turns slow, then either the bushings needs cleaning and lubricating or it's burned up. Or, the engine itself could be causing the starter to turn slow due to too heavy oil for weather conditions or damage inside the engine.

If an engine won't crank over, or cranks over slowly, and if you've checked everything else with the cranking and charging circuits and they check out okay, then the problem is obviously with the starter motor. Never assume that a starter motor is in good condition. It needs to be disassembled to verify that the windings are in fact burned up, the brushes are worn or if the magnets are broken. Because like the old saying goes: "Assumption is the mother of all foul ups."

How to Connect the Wires on the Starter Solenoid/Relay -

If a solenoid/relay have just one 3/16" terminal, the solenoid/relay is grounded internally through the mounting bracket. But if a solenoid/relay has two unmarked 3/16" terminals, the solenoid/relay is grounded externally through one of the 3/16" terminals. It doesn't matter which terminal is used. Connect one small terminal to the starter switch and the other to the chassis/engine ground (battery negative (–) post). When electric current is applied, the two small terminals energizes a magnetic field within the solenoid/relay so the plunger that's connected to a brass disc within can make contact across the two larger terminals to complete the circuit from the battery positive (+) post to the starter motor. On most larger solenoid/relays having two marked 3/16" terminals, the one that's marked with an "S" [Start] connects to the starter switch. It energizes the solenoid/relay so power can be connected from the battery through the solenoid/relay to the starter. With points and condenser/capacitor ignition, the "I" [Ignition] terminal on the solenoid/relay (not present on all solenoids/relays) by-pass the ballast resistor or resistor wire for points/condenser ignition, or connects to the Chrysler or Ford electronic ignition control module to give the coil a stronger spark for faster engine start up. There's no need to use the "I" if the coil has an internal resistor or with crank trigger ignition. The solenoid/relay is grounded through the mounting bracket.

A solenoid/relay (sometimes referred to as an "electric switch" or "relay") eliminates the use of a very heavy duty [push button] starter switch and heavy wiring throughout the starting circuit.

How A Starter Solenoid/Relay Becomes Defective - (Added 10/8/15)

When the engine that uses a starter solenoid/relay cranks over right away upon the turn of the ignition key or the push of the start button (and the engine starts right up), but every now and then when the key is turned or the button is pushed, either nothing happens or there's a constant clicking sound. What's happening is, as the round brass contact disc inside the solenoid rotates slightly upon each activation (magnetic engagement) of the solenoid/relay, the edge of the disc is either burned away, or the brass contact lug on one or the other big terminal (where the battery cable and starter motor cable connects) is burned away. When the metal gets burned away on either part (which is inevitable), neither will make contact to complete the circuit. If the disc and/or lugs aren't totally burned away, when attempting to crank the engine (turning the key back and forth, or push the button again and again), eventually, a good spot on the disc makes contact with the lugs, and the starter spins.

How to Test a Starter Solenoid/Relay -

Tools needed are: analog or digital multimeter, fully charged 12 volt battery and four jumper wires with clips. The test is performed as follows:

  1. Connect the negative (–) post of the battery to the mounting base on the solenoid/relay
  2. Set the multimeter on ohms resistance and connect the leads of the multimeter to the two big terminals on the solenoid/relay.
  3. Connect a jumper wire from the positive (+) post on the battery to the small terminal on the solenoid/relay.
  4. The solenoid/relay should click, and the ohm meter should show a full scale reading.
  5. If the solenoid/relay don't click, then it's defective. Or if it does click with no ohms reading between the two big terminals, the solenoid/relay is defective.

To connect the wires on a starter solenoid/relay to energize a starter motor:

  1. Ground the solenoid/relay to the chassis/engine or battery negative (–) post.
  2. Connect an 8 AWG (American Wire Gauge) battery cable from one of the big terminals on the solenoid/relay to the positive (+) post on the battery.
  3. Connect an 8 AWG battery cable from the other big terminal on the solenoid/relay to the starter motor.
  4. Connect the small terminal on the solenoid/relay with a 16 AWG wire to one of the wires or terminals on a push-button starter switch.
  5. Connect another 16 AWG wire from the push-button starter switch to the positive (+) post on the battery.
  6. When the button is pushed, the solenoid/relay should click, sending an electric current through the two big terminals to complete the circuit for the starter motor and energize the starter motor.


Using the Right Type of Starter or Various Starters for Any Particular Kohler Engine - Top of page

You're wondering with increased compression and with a high-performance camshaft with no compression release on a single cylinder Kohler engine, what types of gear starters are available that's capable of cranking the engine with no problem. Here's the list:

  1. For the Kohler K241 engine, the early [low torque] OEM Kohler gear starter motor seems to crank the engine with no problems. It really doesn't matter if it has a working compression release or not being it's a low compression engine. But this starter tends to hesitate when used on the bigger K301-K341 engines.

  2. As for practically any Kohler K241-K361 engine with a working compression release, the newer aftermarket or OEM Kohler high torque gear starter motor cranks these engines very well, rather if the engine has a compression release and/or a heavy steel flywheel or not. The high torque starters with a 10 gear teeth will crank an engine with even less effort than one with a 13 gear teeth.

  3. But for the ultimate high torque starter motor that will not hesitate in cranking over a 30 c.i., 37c.i./16hp Missouri Super-Stock or 50.5 c.i. Modified-Class pulling engine, the gear reduction/high torque automotive starter that's originally designed for the 1992, '93 and '94 Toyota Camry and Lexus cars with a 2.2L and 3.0L engine can be adapted for use on the Kohler K241-K361 engines, rather if the engine has a heavy steel flywheel or not. See a picture of this mounted starter below. Ê


In some cases, it's not the starter motor who is the culprit of not being able to crank a big cubic inch or high compression engine. Sometimes the ignition timing can be so advanced, the starter tries to crank the engine to start it, but the advanced spark causes the crankshaft to "kick back." Sometimes if the kick-back is severe enough, the armature in a direct-drive starter motor will bend or break. To fix this problem and prevent damage to the starter, use the same starting technique as the Tecumseh cast iron engine with the crank trigger ignition. Install two separate switches - one being a push button to crank the engine and the other being an ordinary OFF/ON toggle switch. To make this work, first crank the engine over with the push button switch, choke it, then flip the [ignition] switch to "put the spark to it" (power up the ignition). This should allow it to start easily and effortlessly every time.

If an engine is slow at cranking over or will barely crank over, then the first thing to check is the condition of the engine. If it cranks over somewhat easy by hand, then it's probably OK. The next thing to check is the condition of the battery. Use a Battery Load Tester to determine the condition of the battery. If it tests good, then check the wire connections and start solenoid/relay (if equipped). If they're OK, then the lat thing to check is the condition of the starter motor. Disassemble it and observe the condition of the wire windings on the armature. If they're dark brown in color and have a burnt smell, then the motor is burned up. But if the windings are light brown or "bronze" in color, then they're in good condition. Clean the commutator (the part on the armature where the brushes make contact) and shaft where the bushings make contact with emery cloth in a metal lathe. Before reassembling the starter, lightly lubricate the bushings with motor oil. If the engine still won't crank over easy, then either the ignition timing is too advanced or the compression release isn't working. Too much valve clearances could also cause hard cranking.

Some starter motors are American made, some are imported. But most nowadays are made of excellent quality and manufactured to exceed OEM specifications. As a matter of fact, virtually all OEM Kohler starters are made in China, so are most of their other engine parts. Kohler owns two factories in China.


IMPORTANT! Be gentle when handling a starter motor, especially one with permanent magnets. Never abuse it by dropping it on the floor or hitting it with a heavy metal object, such as a hammer! Doing this could, or most likely will, break the fragile ceramic magnets inside and render it totally useless. (I've had some customers strike a starter motor with a hammer, thinking this will fix it when it fails to operate. No joke.)


IMPORTANT! Most quality-made starter motors are designed to last the life of an engine. Therefore, if the wire windings in a starter burns up, this means it has cranked an engine for too long at one time. All starters, including automotive starters, are actually 6 volt motors operating on 12 volts. This is what gives them so much torque to crank an engine so quickly and with ease. So if a starter is spun too long (more than 2 minutes), the excess voltage will burn up the wire windings. The longer it's spun, the hotter it gets, which causes the windings to get very hot, which will cause the thin insulating/separating varnish coating on the windings to melt. When this happens, the windings make contact with each other and become shorted, and the starter will ultimately be burned up. That's why most owner's and repair manuals say to never crank an engine longer than 2 minutes at a time without allowing adequate time for it to cool before cranking it again. (If an engine won't start within 2 minutes of cranking, then it obviously needs a major tune-up or repair!) And unlike most automotive starters, which are in big demand, nobody rebuilds (rewinds) Kohler starter motors.

There's three things that can cause a good starter motor to burn up:

  1. Continuously cranking an engine for more than 3 minutes at one time will likely to burn up a good starter motor. They're 6 volt motors operating on 12 volts. This is what gives them extra cranking power.
  2. Another thing that can burn up a good starter motor is using an older OEM Kohler starter. They're low torque compared to most new imported starters, which are high torque. Most engines cranks over easier and starts quicker with a high torque starter motor.
  3. Using a camshaft without the compression release usually won't burn up the starter. Sometimes the starter just isn't capable of cranking the engine due to the high compression.

IMPORTANT! If you need a starter motor to crank an engine without hesitation, you'd be better off purchasing a new one or one that's been professionally rebuilt. Never put full trust in a used electric starter to crank your engine unless your receive an unconditional guarantee that it's good. Otherwise, there's a chance that it's either 90% wore out, burned up or the magnets are broken, and the owner is just trying to sell "junk" to another person. A starter may look nice and clean on the outside, but it's what's on the inside that matters. Some of these questionable starters are sold "AS IS" on places like eBay. So remember these words... "BUYER BEWARE!" By the way - I'm not trying to sell you a new starter here, I'm only informing you of the facts.


Reassembling a Kohler Starter Motor -

Before reassembling a Kohler starter motor, first, a brush holder tool must be made from a thin piece of sheet metal to retain the brushes in their cavities before the end cap can be reinstalled onto the starter housing.

After the end cap is installed and correctly aligned (use the alignment marks for the through bolts), the brush holder tool can be pulled out and the brushes will snap against the commutator.


Always Use a High Quality Battery to Crank a Pulling Engine with a Gear Starter!

Most [stock] single cylinder pulling engines with the automatic compression release (ACR) in working condition with a high torque starter motor and a minimum 350 CCA lawn & garden battery should crank over and start with no problems. But a pulling engine without the ACR may hesitate when the piston comes up on the compression while being cranked. Therefore, it'll be a good ideal to use a high torque starter motor (as mentioned above È) along with a high amp battery, such as a small 12 volt 22AH (Amp Hour) sealed lead acid (SLA) battery, a minimum 350 CCA lawn & garden battery, or better yet, a small 12 volt automotive battery (if it will fit in the battery box). The 12 volt 22AH battery packs a lot of punch (cranking power) and it's vibration-resistant, making ideal for use in a garden pulling tractor.

No professional puller that I know of has an engine-integrated charging system on their pulling tractor. Therefore, a remote 12 volt battery charger will need to be used to keep the battery fully charged when the tractor is not in use. Besides, a charging system will rob the engine of valuable power when it's recharging the battery.


Using a Remote Starter Cart Starting System -

To reduce weight on a garden pulling tractor, remove all starting mechanisms from the engine and tractor, and install a small motorcycle battery or a small, lightweight and rechargeable 12 volt sealed lead acid (SLA) battery (these are vibration-resistant) with a minimum 4AH (Amp Hour) rating, use a machined billet aluminum starter pulley on the crankshaft PTO end, then use a 2 wheel remote starter cart with an automotive or tractor starter motor with a 1/2" wide V-belt pulley, high amperage push-button [starter] switch or solenoid before the switch, and a 12 volt automotive battery to crank the engine to start it. The battery on the tractor is used only to power the ignition and/or electric fuel pump. And with no charging system on the engine, a remote 12 volt battery charger will need to be used to keep the batteries fully charged when the tractor and starter cart are not in use. Also, keep in mind if using a high-output/performance ignition coil, these draw more amps from the battery. The average life expectancy of most standby batteries is between 3-5 years. Install a dash-mount digital voltmeter. Connect it to the ignition switch to instantly show the voltage of the battery when the switch is turned on.

By the way - We use a Value Power automotive battery purchased at Walmart, with heavy duty jumper cables installed to jump-start our customer's equipment.

All starter carts crank the engine from the right side of the tractor, when sitting on the tractor. All Ford tractor starter motors turn clockwise when facing the shaft, and 99% of all small gas engines also turn clockwise when facing the flywheel. So make sure that the starter is installed so it'll turn the same direction as the engine. Position the starter motor on the cart as pictured here, with the shaft facing your left when standing behind the cart. But if you have a different type of starter motor on a starter cart that rotates in reverse of normal engine rotation, then the belt will need to be reversed to resemble a figure 8 to rotate the engine in the right direction.

To fabricate a remote starter cart, use a 6 volt starter motor that's made for a 2N, 8N or 9N Ford farm tractor. A 12 volt starter won't have enough strength to crank over an average pulling engine. Then attach a 2" diameter steel or cast iron V-groove belt pulley on the shaft of the starter. Position a heavy duty 12 volt automotive battery at the base of the cart, a starter solenoid/relay to energize the starter and a heavy-duty push-button type switch to energize the solenoid/relay. And always fully charge the battery before every pull! Click this eBay link if you need a Ford starter for your starter cart.

A high torque Chevrolet V8 starter motor would also make an excellent starter for use on an auxiliary starter cart. A small diameter V-groove pulley in the starter mounting housing will need to installed in place of the starter drive and the V-belt will need to be installed on the pulley inside the housing.



Widening a Narrow-Frame Cub Cadet for use with a Large Flywheel and Gear Starter Motor - Top of Page


The frame rails on all narrow frame IH Cub Cadets (models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127 and 147) are too narrow for use with any K241-K361 Kohler engine with the larger diameter (9-1/2") flywheel (the small flywheel is 8" in diameter.), bearing plate, shroud and upper mount gear starter (mounting bolts are below the starter motor). These larger parts, including the charging stator (alternator charging ring under the flywheel), can be installed on any K241-K361 Kohler engine with no problems. Click here for details on how to actually widen the tractor frame.

The upper mount gear starter (mounting bolts are below the starter motor)can't be installed on the very early K241 engine blocks because there's no indention in the block just above the starter's mounting holes. These blocks were designed for the starter/generator only.

To convert virtually any small gas engine to electric gear start, the parts that's needed are: Top of page
  • 12 volt battery and starter motor, both capable of cranking the engine effectively.
  • Starter solenoid/relay or high amperage starter switch.
  • Charging system (to recharge battery and power electrical accessories). Use either a flywheel w/ring gear with internal ring of magnets, stator with voltage rectifier/regulator [if stator produces more than 3 amps]; an automotive-type generator/alternator with voltage regulator/rectifier; or a remote battery charger.
  • 16 AWG wiring to connect solenoid/relay to starter switch and connect charging system.
  • 8 AWG battery cable to connect between starter and solenoid/relay or high amperage starter switch, and between solenoid/relay or high amperage starter switch and battery.

The parts needed to convert a Kohler K-series engine with a starter/generator to a gear starter are as follows:
  • Large diameter (9-1/2") flywheel with a starter ring gear.
  • Large bearing plate that's designed for a gear starter and charging stator.
  • Flywheel shroud for bearing plate above È (for either an upper mount gear starter [mounting bolts are below the starter motor] or lower mount gear starter [mounting bolts are above the starter motor]).
  • Gear starter (OEM type). (Lower mount for K141, K160/K161 and K181 engines, and lower mount on the K241-K361 engines if the gas tank is in the way - not for Cub Cadets. Upper mount only on K241-K361 engines for Cub Cadets.)
  • Starter solenoid/relay (if your particular tractor require one).
  • Charging stator and voltage rectifier.

Depending on battery drainage and need for recharging, to be precise, and with the engine running at 3,600 RPM, the generator part of the starter/generator unit or alternator stator uses about 3/8hp (of engine power) when it recharges a fully discharged battery at full 15 amps; about 5/8hp at full 20 amps; and about 7/8hp at full 30 amps. But if the battery doesn't need much recharging, the charging system draws less hp from the engine. I know this small amount isn't much, but every hp counts in competitive pulling. So to reserve this power for pulling, disconnect the generator or alternator from charging the battery (and powering other accessories as well) simply by splitting the wire that connects to the FIELD terminal (the smaller wire and terminal) on a starter/generator unit and splitting the wire that connects to the center terminal on the voltage rectifier/regular of an alternator system. Then connect an ordinary OFF/ON toggle switch in that wire or circuit to turn off and on the charging current. And it'll be best not to spin the starter/generator when pulling. Being it has ball bearings, the excessive spinning won't hurt it. But being the V-belt causes drag, depending on belt tension, it can use up to 2hp of engine power just to spin it. This is also power that can be put to the rear tires for pulling. Besides, wouldn't it be better to spin the tires than the starter/generator? So to disengage the starter/generator belt, install threaded studs with locknuts on the starter/generator bracket and install a heavy spring on the starter/generator so it'll remain close to the engine. To crank the engine, install the belt on the pulleys, then pull out on the starter/generator with a fabricated handle to tighten the belt. After the engine starts, release the starter/generator and flip the belt off. But use caution doing this for an obvious reason!

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If you need any of the items or services listed below Ê, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends (except Holidays). Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival. Fax: 1-573-449-7347. E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. Please click here to place an order.

Universal Self-Grounding ON/OFF Switches for Magneto (points and condenser/capacitor) or Solid State Ignition Systems. Very durable, tough switches. Each can be mounted in metal (grounded) dashboard, instrument panel, engine control panel, engine flywheel shroud, etc. Single blade on switch connects to points wire or solid state module wire/terminal that kills the engine. Can be used on anything that has points and condenser/capacitor magneto, solid state, or solid state transistorized electronic modules, such as: Kohler Magnum and Command engines, lawn mowers, lawn tractors, garden tillers, go-karts, chainsaws, portable air compressors, generators/welders, water pumps, etc.

  • Universal ON/OFF Toggle Switch. Comes with ON/OFF indicator plate. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # 223072-S. $3.60 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Universal ON/OFF Key Switch. Use for security of equipment. Requires 5/8" mounting hole. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Universal ON/OFF Switches for Battery-Powered Ignition Systems. Each can be mounted in dashboard, instrument panel, engine control panel, etc. Wires connect between battery and ignition coil to supply power to and kill engine. Very durable, tough switches. Can be used on anything that has a battery-powered ignition system, such as: pulling tractors, mini-rods, hot-rods, garden tractors, farm tractors, automobiles, etc. Or can be used as a magneto/solid state ignition kill switch with one wire/terminal grounded and the other wire/terminal connected to the coil or ignition module, but the ON/OFF indicator plate will be reversed.

  • Universal ON/OFF Toggle Switch. Comes with ON/OFF indicator plate and two 6" wire leads. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # 238011-S. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Universal ON/OFF Key Switch. Use for security of equipment. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Push Button Switches. Use each to crank engine or activate killswitch motor on pulling sled. Each Normally Open; contact made when plunger is depressed. Use to crank over engine,

  • Light Duty 15 Amp Push Button Switch. Use as a safety switch, temporarily power low amperage electrical accessories, such as light(s), etc., or use with starter solenoid/relay to crank engine or to power kill switch motor (on pulling sled). Requires 15/32" mounting hole. 2-1/8" overall length. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Heavy Duty 20 Amp Push Button Switch. Starter solenoid/relay may be required depending on application. Comes with two screws to connect between battery positive (+) post and starter motor. Heavy wire terminals and minimum #8 gauge wire recommended. Requires 5/8" mounting hole. $14.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Universal 3-Position OFF-IGNITION-START Key Switch for use with Magneto or Solid State Ignition Systems. Use with a starter solenoid/relay to prevent burning out internal contacts. Identification of terminals are as follows: B = Battery, M = Magneto, S = Solenoid, L = Lights, G = Ground (grounded to body of switch). Each terminal identified for correct wire connections. Use #250 crimp-type slip-on spade wire connectors on terminals when connecting wires to switch. Requires 5/8" diameter mounting hole.
  • Our part # 55-1013. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Universal 3-Position OFF-IGNITION-START Key Switch for use with Battery-Powered or Crank Trigger Electronic Ignition Systems. Use with a starter solenoid/relay to prevent burning out internal contacts. Identification of terminals are as follows: B = Battery, I = Ignition, S = Solenoid, R = Rectifier, A = Accessory. Each terminal identified for correct wire connections. Use #250 crimp-type slip-on spade wire connectors on terminals when connecting wires to switch. Requires 9/16" diameter mounting hole.
  • Our part # 430-249. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Inductive Handheld Small Engine Wireless Tachometer. A tachometer helps in setting the correct RPMs of an engine to prevent over-revving and possible damage to the engine. Very accurate. For gas/spark ignite engines only. This handheld analog tachometer works great for checking/setting the RPM on various small engines in the shop, and/or for checking/setting the RPM [tech] on stock governored engines at pulling events, ATVs/UTVS, etc. Hold sensor (antenna) close to spark plug wire for reading. Operates off a self-contained replaceable 9 volt battery. Has built-in battery voltage check. Reads up to 5,000 RPM on the low scale, and 15,000 RPM on the high scale.
  • $85.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Inductive Small Engine Tachometer and Hour Meter. A tachometer helps in setting the correct RPMs of an engine to prevent over-revving and possible damage to the engine. Very accurate. Large 3/8 inch LCD display. Works with all spark ignition engines by selecting engine type using S1 and S2 buttons. Instructions included. Tachometer reads up to 99,999 RPM. Hour meter reads up to 9999:59 hours/minutes then resets to Zero. Programmable maintenance hour setting with service icon, a reminder when to change oil or other service. Can be manually reset to Zero hours. Programmable maintenance hour setting with service icon, a reminder when to change oil or other service. Easy installation: Single wire wraps around spark plug wire and secured with two supplied nylon zip-ties. No wire terminal connections required. Tachometer can be surface-mounted and secured with two screws. Has built-in battery rated up to 4 years. Sealed unit; weather and water resistant. Dimensions: 2" wide x 1-3/4" depth x 3/4" height.
  • $20.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Digital Tachometer/Proximity Sensor Kits. A tachometer helps in setting the correct RPMs of an engine to prevent over-revving and possible damage to the engine. Very accurate. Will work with small engines or automotive engines, gas or diesel. This precision digital tachometer is triggered by the same method as crank trigger ignition with a proximity sensor to detect a target, which can be a small ferrous steel screw or pin, or magnet in a rotating disc or on/in flywheel. A sturdy steel or aluminum bracket will need to be fabricated by customer to mount the sensor in close proximity of the detector/trigger target. Set air gap/clearance at .010"-.188". Tachometer can be dash- or panel-mounted. Tachometer works with 8-24 volts DC, proximity sensors works with 6-36 volts DC. Tachometer can be dash- or panel-mounted. Tachometer works with 8-24 volts DC, proximity sensors works with 6-36 volts DC. Dimensions of each proximity sensor below: 15/32" (12mm) diameter x 1-3/8" thread length. Some proximity sensors have an LED (Light Emitting Diode) on the rear of unit. If the proximity sensor is wired incorrectly, the LED will stay on and go off when activated. Displays up to 9,999 RPM. Very accurate. Tachometer returns to zero [0000] when power is turned off. Wiring Instructions: #1 wire on tachometer connects to brown wire on (either) proximity sensor and ignition switch (battery positive (+) post), #2 wire on tachometer connects to blue wire on (either) proximity sensor and engine/chassis ground (battery negative (–) post), and #5 wire on tachometer connects to black wire on (either) proximity sensor. Wires #3 and #4 connects to nothing. Wiring can also be integrated with crank trigger ignition with a proximity sensor. Choice of RED or BLUE numeric display.
  • Tachometer only. To be used with a 3-wire hall effect, inductive or cube-shaped proximity sensor. $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Complete Kit with Hall Effect Proximity Sensor. $22.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Complete Kit with Inductive Proximity Sensor. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Return to previous section.
12 Volt Electric Fuel Pump Installation Kits. Low pressure, small and compact. Convert from gravity feed, or replace faulty vacuum-operated, pulse-type or mechanical fuel pump (with a deteriorated diaphragm that can seep gas into the crankcase, diluting the oil, which can could severe internal engine damage), or upgrade to one of these pumps for more fuel delivery. Each produces 2.5-4.5 psi @ 30 gph, and is non-adjustable. Fuel regulator is not required, but may require one under certain conditions. Use for general lawn and garden work, or for garden tractor pulling. Will work for most single- and twin-cylinder gas engines such as Kohler, Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh, Wisconsin, etc., on virtually all models of Cub Cadet, John Deere, Wheel Horse, Sears Suburban, Massey Ferguson, and just about any lawn & garden equipment with a 12 volt electrical system. These electric fuel pump kits come with fittings that accepts 1/4" i.d. fuel hose, the same size that's on most Kohler and other makes and models of engines. If it's a Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) engine, the fitting in the carburetor would need to be changed to 1/4". If the engine has magneto or solid state ignition, but no charging system, and only a 12 volt battery is used to power the fuel pump, the battery will need to be recharged with portable battery charger every now and then so the fuel pump will work at peak efficiency. Alcohol resistant and very durable. For stock engines or engines running at high RPM or wide open throttle. Suitable for small gas engines up to 4 cylinder carbureted engines. Instant fuel prime to the carburetor as soon as pump is powered up. Ideal when equipment runs out of gas and no need to crank engine for a long time to refill carburetor to restart engine. Saves on starter motor wear. Each operates on 12 volts DC. Rather than a motor or diaphragm, these solenoid pumps use a piston actuated by an electromagnetic coil to generate fuel pressure and flow. By using only short pulses of electricity, this pump is very efficient. IMPORTANT: For winter-time or long-term storage, drain and flush out all fuel, leave fuel hoses disconnected so entire fuel system can "air dry," and apply WD-40 or light oil in the fuel pump to prevent oxidation, which could cause the moving parts to "freeze up" or stick. For a pulling tractor, if methanol fuel is subject to a water test, don't add WD-40 or oil in the pump. Just drain and flush out all fuel, use compressed air to remove any remaining fuel from the pump, and store the tractor in a cool, dry environment. Wire Connections: The BLACK wire connects to negative (–) ground (tractor chassis or frame), and the RED wire connects to the positive (+) battery post or a terminal on the ignition switch that connects to the positive (+) battery post. If the wires are connected in reverse, the fuel pump will pump fuel in the opposite direction. It will not harm the pump. And the filter connects on the side closest to the fuel tank to help keep the inside of the pump clean so it will last longer.

NOTE: Electric fuel pumps listed here come with a one year warranty. Install the inline fuel filter before the pump (inlet port) to prevent any debris from becoming lodged in the pumping mechanism. If there is debris lodged, it may be removed with 150 psi compressed air when applied in the reverse direction of fuel flow. If the pump still won't work right after clearing it out, please remove the fittings, return the pump and I'll send you another new fuel pump without the hardware and fittings. Return To Previous Paragraph or Section

  • Round Body Electric Fuel Pump Installation Kit. Includes: Fuel pump, mounting bracket w/bolt/nut, two straight 1/4" barbed fuel hose fittings, 4 hose spring-type clamps, 1/4" i.d. x 12" length reinforced fuel hose and fuel filter. High quality aftermarket. $32.00 each, plus shipping and handling.
  • Square Body Electric Fuel Pump Installation Kit. Includes: Fuel pump, two straight 1/4" barbed fuel hose fittings, 4 hose spring-type clamps, 1/4" i.d. x 12" length reinforced fuel hose and fuel filter. High quality aftermarket. $32.00 each, plus shipping and handling.
  • Square Body Electric Fuel Pump Installation Kit. Pressure: 1/2 - 2 lb. psi. Suitable for aluminum block engines. Includes: Fuel pump, two 1/4" barbed fuel hose fittings, reinforced fuel hose, 4 hose spring-type clamps, and fuel filter. OEM Kohler part # 25 559 01-S. $188.85 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Square Body Electric Fuel Pump Installation Kit. Pressure: 2 - 3-1/2 lb. psi. Suitable for cast iron block engines. Includes: Fuel pump, two 1/4" barbed fuel hose fittings, reinforced fuel hose, 4 hose spring-type clamps, and fuel filter. OEM Kohler part # 41 393 45-S. $358.05 each, plus shipping & handling.
Used 9-1/2" diameter genuine OEM cast iron Kohler K-series flywheel for K241-K361 engines. These flywheels are for battery ignition only, not magneto ignition. They're in excellent condition and unaltered. No crack in the keyway, no broken or missing fins and no cracked or missing internal magnets for charging system (if used for yard use). IMPORTANT! As with any OEM factory flywheel, these flywheels are for stock tractors only; not to be turned above 4,000 RPM!
  • Flywheel with ring gear and internal charging magnets. $125.00 each, shipping included within in the Continental U.S. if purchased separately.
  • Flywheel without ring gear (install your own ring gear) and with or without internal charging magnets. $85.00 each, shipping included within in the Continental U.S. if purchased separately.
  • Flywheel without ring gear (install your own ring gear) and majority of fins removed and precision balanced and with or without internal charging magnets. $115.00 each, shipping included within in the Continental U.S. if purchased separately. Click on picture to the right for a larger view. à
  • Flywheel with ring gear and majority of fins removed and precision balanced and with or without internal charging magnets. $135.00 each, shipping included within in the Continental U.S. if purchased separately. (Click picture to the right for a larger view.)
  • Used ring gear. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Your flywheel - remove majority of fins and precision rebalance. $85.00 labor, return shipping extra. Includes cut most of the fins off, chuck it in our lathe to true up the fins so they're all even and balance it.
Recoil Starter Cups w/internal notches, 5/8" hole, and with or without screen for Kohler engine models K141, K161 and K181.
  • Stamped Steel Cup w/o screen. OEM Kohler part # 41 071 06-S. $38.95 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Stamped Steel Cup w/screen. OEM Kohler part # 41 071 07-S. $30.30 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Cast Aluminum Cup w/screen. OEM Kohler part # 41 071 08-S. $57.80 each, plus shipping & handling.

Recoil Starter Cup w/internal notches, 5/8" hole and without screen for Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321 and K341. OEM Kohler part # 235685-S.

  • $55.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Starter Mounting Bolts for Kohler K241-K361 K-series starter motors. Grade 8 hex head bolts, 3/8-24 UNC threads x 1-3/4" length. Torque at 35 ft. lb.
  • High quality aftermarket with split lock washers. $2.50 per two, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 234948-S. $5.35 per two, plus shipping & handling.
High Torque Gear Starter Motors for Kohler K-series engine models K141, K161 and K181. 12 volt, 16 tooth gear. Each have 20% more wire windings than the early OEM Kohler starter, giving it 20% more cranking power. Draws less amps; a smaller battery can be used. Cranks engine about twice as fast and draws less amps than an ordinary starter. But with a broken compression release, a high torque starter may not be able to crank over the engine. It'll be best to replace the cam with a working compression release. FYI - The aftermarket starter motors I sell are the same as OEM Kohler starters. Kohler just place a big markup on theirs because it comes in a box with the Kohler name on it and the starter has the Kohler name stamped on it. Kohler part # 41 098 08-S.
  • OEM Kohler starter. Refurbished and in excellent condition. Comes with a 30 day warranty. $60.00 each, plus shipping and handling. (When available.)
  • New high quality aftermarket starter. Comes with manufacturer's 100% unconditional one year warranty. $85.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • New OEM Kohler starter. Comes with a 90 day warranty against defects in materials or workmanship. $190.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

IMPORTANT! Most quality-made starter motors are designed to last the life of an engine. Therefore, if a good starter burns up prematurely, then this means that it has cranked an engine for too long at one time. All starters, including automotive starters, are actually 6 volt motors operating on 12 volts. This is what gives them so much torque to crank an engine so fast and with ease. So if a starter motor is spun too long (longer than 2 minutes), the excess voltage will burn up the windings. The longer it's spun, the hotter it will get, which causes the wire windings to get very hot, which causes the insulating/separating varnish coating on the windings to melt. When the coating melts, the windings make contact with each other and become shorted out, and you have a burned up starter on your hands. That's why most owner's and repair manuals say to never crank an engine longer than 2 minutes at a time without allowing adequate time for it to cool before cranking it again. (If an engine won't start within 2 minutes of cranking, then it obviously needs a major tune-up or repair!)

10 Tooth and 13 Tooth High Torque Upper Mount (mounting bolts are below starter) Gear Starter Motors for Kohler K-series engine models K241, K301, K321, K341 and K361. 12 volt. Each have 20% more wire windings than the early OEM Kohler starter, giving it 20% more cranking power. Cranks engine about twice as fast and draws less amps than an ordinary starter. Therefore, a smaller battery can be used. In addition to the extra windings, the 10 tooth starter gear gives this starter extra torque so it'll crank the engine with less effort. But with a broken compression release, a high torque starter may not be able to crank over the engine. It'll be best to replace the cam with a working compression release. FYI - The aftermarket starter motors I sell are the same as OEM Kohler starters. Kohler just place a big markup on theirs because it comes in a box with the Kohler name on it and the starter has the Kohler name stamped on it.
  • 10 Tooth Starters. Has 30% more cranking torque than 13 tooth starter. Can be used with or without working compression release.
    • OEM Kohler starter. Refurbished and in excellent condition. Comes with a 30 day warranty. $60.00 each, plus shipping and handling. (When available.)
    • New high quality aftermarket starter. Comes with manufacturer's 100% unconditional one year warranty. $85.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • New OEM Kohler part # 45 098 09-S. Comes with 90 day warranty against defects in materials or workmanship. $211.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 13 Tooth Starters. Cranks engine over 30% faster than 10 tooth starter. Best to be used with working compression release.
    • OEM Kohler starter. Refurbished and in excellent condition. Comes with a 30 day warranty. $60.00 each, plus shipping and handling. (When available.)
    • New high quality aftermarket starter. Comes with manufacturer's 100% unconditional one year warranty. $100.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • New OEM Kohler part # 45 098 11-S. Comes with 90 day warranty against defects in materials or workmanship. $338.70 each, plus shipping & handling.

IMPORTANT! Most quality-made starter motors are designed to last the life of an engine. Therefore, if a good starter burns up prematurely, then this means that it has cranked an engine for too long at one time. All starters, including automotive starters, are actually 6 volt motors operating on 12 volts. This is what gives them so much torque to crank an engine so fast and with ease. So if a starter motor is spun too long (longer than 2 minutes), the excess voltage will burn up the windings. The longer it's spun, the hotter it will get, which causes the wire windings to get very hot, which causes the insulating/separating varnish coating on the windings to melt. When the coating melts, the windings make contact with each other and become shorted out, and you have a burned up starter on your hands. That's why most owner's and repair manuals say to never crank an engine longer than 2 minutes at a time without allowing adequate time for it to cool before cranking it again. (If an engine won't start within 2 minutes of cranking, then it obviously needs a major tune-up or repair!)

High Torque Lower Mount (mounting bolts are above starter) Gear Starter Motors for Kohler K-series engine models K241, K301, K321, K341 and K361. 12 volt. Each have 20% more wire windings than the early OEM Kohler starter, giving it 20% more cranking power. Draws less amps; a smaller battery can be used. Cranks engine about twice as fast and draws less amps than an ordinary starter. In addition to the extra windings, the 10 tooth starter gear gives this starter extra torque so it'll crank the engine with less effort. But with a broken compression release, a high torque starter may not be able to crank over the engine. It'll be best to replace the cam with a working compression release. FYI - The aftermarket starter motors I sell are the same as OEM Kohler starters. Kohler just place a big markup on theirs because it comes in a box with the Kohler name on it and the starter has the Kohler name stamped on it. Kohler part # 45 098 10-S.
  • OEM Kohler starter. Refurbished and in excellent condition. Comes with a 30 day warranty. $60.00 each, plus shipping and handling. (When available.)
  • New high quality aftermarket starter. Comes with manufacturer's 100% unconditional one year warranty. $88.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • New OEM Kohler starter. Comes with a 90 day warranty against defects in materials or workmanship. $216.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)

IMPORTANT! Most quality-made starter motors are designed to last the life of an engine. Therefore, if a good starter burns up prematurely, then this means that it has cranked an engine for too long at one time. All starters, including automotive starters, are actually 6 volt motors operating on 12 volts. This is what gives them so much torque to crank an engine so fast and with ease. So if a starter motor is spun too long (longer than 2 minutes), the excess voltage will burn up the windings. The longer it's spun, the hotter it will get, which causes the wire windings to get very hot, which causes the insulating/separating varnish coating on the windings to melt. When the coating melts, the windings make contact with each other and become shorted out, and you have a burned up starter on your hands. That's why most owner's and repair manuals say to never crank an engine longer than 2 minutes at a time without allowing adequate time for it to cool before cranking it again. (If an engine won't start within 2 minutes of cranking, then it obviously needs a major tune-up or repair!)

High Torque Gear Starter Motors for Kohler Magnum engine models M8, M10, M12, M14 and M16. 12 volt. Each have 20% more wire windings than the early OEM Kohler starter, giving it 20% more cranking power. Draws less amps; a smaller battery can be used. Cranks engine about twice as fast and draws less amps than an ordinary starter. Length: 7-1/4"; mounting studs: two 1/4"-20; o.d. housing: 3-1/16"; center to center mount: 2-1/2"'. But with a broken compression release, a high torque starter may not be able to crank over the engine. It'll be best to replace the cam with a working compression release. FYI - The aftermarket starter motors I sell are the same as OEM Kohler starters. Kohler just place a big markup on theirs because it comes in a box with the Kohler name on it and the starter has the Kohler name stamped on it. Kohler part # 41 098 06-S.
  • OEM Kohler starter. Refurbished and in excellent condition. Comes with a 30 day warranty. $60.00 each, plus shipping and handling. (When available.)
  • New high quality aftermarket starter. Comes with manufacturer's 100% unconditional one year warranty. $85.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • New OEM Kohler starter. Comes with a 90 day warranty against defects in materials or workmanship. $191.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

IMPORTANT! Most quality-made starter motors are designed to last the life of an engine. Therefore, if a good starter burns up prematurely, then this means that it has cranked an engine for too long at one time. All starters, including automotive starters, are actually 6 volt motors operating on 12 volts. This is what gives them so much torque to crank an engine so fast and with ease. So if a starter motor is spun too long (longer than 2 minutes), the excess voltage will burn up the windings. The longer it's spun, the hotter it will get, which causes the wire windings to get very hot, which causes the insulating/separating varnish coating on the windings to melt. When the coating melts, the windings make contact with each other and become shorted out, and you have a burned up starter on your hands. That's why most owner's and repair manuals say to never crank an engine longer than 2 minutes at a time without allowing adequate time for it to cool before cranking it again. (If an engine won't start within 2 minutes of cranking, then it obviously needs a major tune-up or repair!)

High Torque Gear Starter Motors for Kohler twin cylinder flathead engine models MV16, KT17, KT17 series 2, KT19, KT19 series 2, KT21, M18, MV18, MV20 and M20. 12 volt. Same as starter below Ê, except has wire terminal connection on side of housing. Each have 20% more wire windings than the early OEM Kohler starter, giving it 20% more cranking power. Draws less amps; a smaller battery can be used. Cranks engine about twice as fast and draws less amps than an ordinary starter. But with a broken compression release, a high torque starter may not be able to crank over the engine. It'll be best to replace the cam with a working compression release. FYI - The aftermarket starter motors I sell are the same as OEM Kohler starters. Kohler just place a big markup on theirs because it comes in a box with the Kohler name on it and the starter has the Kohler name stamped on it. Kohler part # 52 098 12-S.
  • OEM Kohler starter. Refurbished and in excellent condition. Comes with a 30 day warranty. $60.00 each, plus shipping and handling. (When available.)
  • New high quality aftermarket starter. Comes with manufacturer's 100% unconditional one year warranty. $88.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • New OEM Kohler starter. Comes with a 90 day warranty against defects in materials or workmanship. $198.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

High Torque Gear Starter Motors for Kohler twin cylinder flathead engine models MV16, KT17, KT17 series 2, KT19, KT19 series 2, KT21, M18, MV18, MV20 and M20. 12 volt. Same as starter above È, except has wire terminal connection on end of housing. Each have 20% more wire windings than the early OEM Kohler starter, giving it 20% more cranking power. Draws less amps; a smaller battery can be used. Cranks engine about twice as fast and draws less amps than an ordinary starter. But with a broken compression release, a high torque starter may not be able to crank over the engine. It'll be best to replace the cam with a working compression release. FYI - The aftermarket starter motors I sell are the same as OEM Kohler starters. Kohler just place a big markup on theirs because it comes in a box with the Kohler name on it and the starter has the Kohler name stamped on it. Kohler part # 52 098 13-S.

  • OEM Kohler starter. Refurbished and in excellent condition. Comes with a 30 day warranty. $60.00 each, plus shipping and handling. (When available.)
  • New high quality aftermarket starter. Comes with manufacturer's 100% unconditional one year warranty. $88.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • New OEM Kohler starter. Comes with a 90 day warranty against defects in materials or workmanship. $198.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

IMPORTANT! Most quality-made starter motors are designed to last the life of an engine. Therefore, if a good starter burns up prematurely, then this means that it has cranked an engine for too long at one time. All starters, including automotive starters, are actually 6 volt motors operating on 12 volts. This is what gives them so much torque to crank an engine so fast and with ease. So if a starter motor is spun too long (longer than 2 minutes), the excess voltage will burn up the windings. The longer it's spun, the hotter it will get, which causes the wire windings to get very hot, which causes the insulating/separating varnish coating on the windings to melt. When the coating melts, the windings make contact with each other and become shorted out, and you have a burned up starter on your hands. That's why most owner's and repair manuals say to never crank an engine longer than 2 minutes at a time without allowing adequate time for it to cool before cranking it again. (If an engine won't start within 2 minutes of cranking, then it obviously needs a major tune-up or repair!)

High Torque Gear Starter Motors for Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582. Notes: (1) Additional 6.6mm unthreaded hole in additional DE mounting position, (1) 5.9mm unthreaded hole in CE frame, 1/4-20 threaded battery terminal, 128.2mm magnetic field case length, rubber skirt drive. 12 volt. Each have 20% more wire windings than the early OEM Kohler starter, giving it 20% more cranking power. Draws less amps; a smaller battery can be used. Cranks engine about twice as fast and draws less amps than an ordinary starter. But with a broken compression release, a high torque starter may not be able to crank over the engine. It'll be best to replace the cam with a working compression release. FYI - The aftermarket starter motors I sell are the same as OEM Kohler starters. Kohler just place a big markup on theirs because it comes in a box with the Kohler name on it and the starter has the Kohler name stamped on it. Kohler part # 48 098 04-S.
  • New high quality aftermarket starter. Comes with manufacturer's 100% unconditional one year warranty. $93.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • New OEM Kohler starter. Comes with a 90 day warranty against defects in materials or workmanship. $223.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

IMPORTANT! Most quality-made starter motors are designed to last the life of an engine. Therefore, if a good starter burns up prematurely, then this means that it has cranked an engine for too long at one time. All starters, including automotive starters, are actually 6 volt motors operating on 12 volts. This is what gives them so much torque to crank an engine so fast and with ease. So if a starter motor is spun too long (longer than 2 minutes), the excess voltage will burn up the windings. The longer it's spun, the hotter it will get, which causes the wire windings to get very hot, which causes the insulating/separating varnish coating on the windings to melt. When the coating melts, the windings make contact with each other and become shorted out, and you have a burned up starter on your hands. That's why most owner's and repair manuals say to never crank an engine longer than 2 minutes at a time without allowing adequate time for it to cool before cranking it again. (If an engine won't start within 2 minutes of cranking, then it obviously needs a major tune-up or repair!)

High Torque Gear Starter Motors for Kohler V-twin engine models CH12.5, CH13, CH14, CH15, CH18, CH20, CH22, CH25; CV12.5, CV15S, CV16, CV18, CV20, CV22, CV25. Notes: 10-tooth drive starter. Each have 20% more wire windings than the early OEM Kohler starter, giving it 20% more cranking power. Draws less amps; a smaller battery can be used. Cranks engine about twice as fast and draws less amps than an ordinary starter. But with a broken compression release, a high torque starter may not be able to crank over the engine. It'll be best to replace the cam with a working compression release. FYI - The aftermarket starter motors I sell are the same as OEM Kohler starters. Kohler just place a big markup on theirs because it comes in a box with the Kohler name on it and the starter has the Kohler name stamped on it. Replaces Nippondenso and United Technology starters w/ 9-tooth drive (Lester 17628). Kohler part # 25 098 11-S, Delco 10455513, John Deere AM108390, Nippondenso 128000-748, 228000-264, UT SM51747, Lester: 17628. 12 volt.
  • New high quality aftermarket starter. Comes with manufacturer's 100% unconditional one year warranty. $90.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • New OEM Kohler starter. Comes with a 90 day warranty against defects in materials or workmanship. $210.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

IMPORTANT! Most quality-made starter motors are designed to last the life of an engine. Therefore, if a good starter burns up prematurely, then this means that it has cranked an engine for too long at one time. All starters, including automotive starters, are actually 6 volt motors operating on 12 volts. This is what gives them so much torque to crank an engine so fast and with ease. So if a starter motor is spun too long (longer than 2 minutes), the excess voltage will burn up the windings. The longer it's spun, the hotter it will get, which causes the wire windings to get very hot, which causes the insulating/separating varnish coating on the windings to melt. When the coating melts, the windings make contact with each other and become shorted out, and you have a burned up starter on your hands. That's why most owner's and repair manuals say to never crank an engine longer than 2 minutes at a time without allowing adequate time for it to cool before cranking it again. (If an engine won't start within 2 minutes of cranking, then it obviously needs a major tune-up or repair!)

High Torque Gear Starter Motor for Briggs & Stratton Opposed (Flathead) Twin Cylinder Engines. Fits 14, 16, 18 and 20hp twin cylinder engines. 12 volt. Has 15% more wire windings than the short version starter, giving it 15% more cranking power. Draws less amps; a smaller battery can be used. Cranks engine about twice as fast and draws less amps than an ordinary starter. FYI - The aftermarket starter motors I sell are the same as OEM Briggs & Stratton starters. Briggs just place a big markup on theirs because it comes in a box with their name on it and the starter has the Briggs & Stratton logo stamped on it. Replaces Briggs & Stratton part #'s 399928, 495100, 498148.
  • New high quality aftermarket starter. Comes with manufacturer's 100% unconditional one year warranty. $60.00 each, plus shipping and handling.

IMPORTANT! Most quality-made starter motors are designed to last the life of an engine. Therefore, if a good starter burns up prematurely, then this means that it has cranked an engine for too long at one time. All starters, including automotive starters, are actually 6 volt motors operating on 12 volts. This is what gives them so much torque to crank an engine so fast and with ease. So if a starter motor is spun too long (longer than 2 minutes), the excess voltage will burn up the windings. The longer it's spun, the stronger it will get, which causes the wire windings to get very hot, which causes the insulating/separating varnish coating on the windings to melt. When the coating melts, the windings make contact with each other and become shorted out, and you have a burned up starter on your hands. That's why most owner's and repair manuals say to never crank an engine longer than 2 minutes at a time without allowing adequate time for it to cool before cranking it again. (If an engine won't start within 2 minutes of cranking, then it obviously needs a major tune-up or repair!)

Plastic body, 3 terminal design, intermittent duty, 80 amp capacity, 12 volt universal mount remote solenoid/relay. Suitable for lawn and garden, and stock competition pulling engines only. Used to temporarily activate any maximum 80 amp draw electrical accessory. Prevents from burning out a manual light-duty switch and eliminates need to use a heavy duty switch in a custom wiring circuit. Wiring connections: One large terminal connects to battery positive (+) post, and the other large terminal connects to starter motor, horn, kill switch motor, etc. Small terminal connects to starter switch or momentary push button switch to energize solenoid. If continually energized for long periods of time, plastic body could melt. Grounded through mounting base. Studs: 1/4-20 NC, 10-32 NF.
  • High quality aftermarket. Our part # 48-1005. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 25 435 08-S. $42.40 each, plus shipping & handling.
Plastic body, 4 terminal design, intermittent duty, 12 volt universal mount remote starter solenoid/relay. Suitable for lawn and garden, and stock competition pulling engines only. Used to temporarily activate any maximum 80 amp draw electrical accessory. Prevents from burning out a manual light-duty switch and eliminates need to use a heavy duty switch in a custom wiring circuit. Wiring connections: One large terminal connects to battery positive (+) post, and the other large terminal connects to starter motor, horn, kill switch motor, etc. One small terminal connects to starter switch or momentary push button switch to energize solenoid, and other small terminal connects to chassis/engine ground. If continually energized for long periods of time, plastic body may melt. Isolated mounting base. Studs: 1/4-20 NC, 10-32 NF. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # 45 435 07-S.
  • Our part # 48-1003. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Plastic body, 4 terminal design, intermittent duty, 12 volt remote mount starter solenoid/relay. Suitable for lawn and garden, and high RPM competition pulling engines. Used to temporarily activate any maximum 150 amp draw electrical accessory. Prevents from burning out a manual light-duty switch and eliminates need to use a heavy duty switch in a custom wiring circuit. Wiring connections: One large terminal connects to battery positive (+) post, and other large terminal connects to starter motor. One small terminal (S) connects to starter switch or momentary push button switch to energize solenoid, and other small terminal (I) connects to positive (+) terminal on ignition coil to by-pass the ballast resistor or resistor wire for points/condenser ignition, or connects to the Chrysler or Ford electronic ignition control module to give the coil a stronger spark for faster engine start up. If continually energized for long periods of time, plastic body may melt. Grounded through mounting base. Studs: 5/16-18 NC, 10-32 NF. Popular on 1999 and earlier Ford vehicles.
  • Our part #'s 48-1007, R/A 4D7. $13.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Metal body, 3 terminal design, continuous duty, 12 volt universal remote solenoid/relay. Suitable for lawn and garden, and high RPM competition pulling engines. Used to activate any maximum 150 amp draw electrical accessory for long period of time. Prevents from burning out a manual light-duty switch and eliminates need to use a heavy duty switch in a custom wiring circuit. Wiring connections: One large terminal connects to battery positive (+) post, and other large terminal connects to starter motor, horn, kill switch motor, etc. Small terminal connects to starter switch or momentary push button switch to energize solenoid. Grounded through mounting base. Studs: 5/16-18 NC, 10-32 NF.
  • Our part # 48-1009. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Metal body, 4 terminal design, continuous duty, 12 volt universal remote solenoid/relay. Suitable for lawn and garden, and high RPM competition pulling engines. Used to activate any maximum 150 amp draw electrical accessory for long period of time. Wiring connections: One large terminal connects to battery positive (+) post, and other large terminal connects to starter motor, horn, kill switch motor, etc. One small terminal connects to starter switch or momentary push button switch to energize solenoid, and other small terminal connects to chassis/engine ground. Isolated mounting base. Studs: 5/16-18 NC, 10-32 NF. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # 45 435 07-S.
  • Our part # 48-1008. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Universal 15 and 20 Amp Gauges / Ammeter Kits. Install one of these gauges to know exactly what the charging system on your engine is doing. Having an amp gauge installed is very important in monitoring the charging system to prevent premature failure of electrical components. By the time you smell something burning or see smoke, it may be too late. If the charging system continues to charge (+) with no gradual "falling back" to zero on the gauge (if installed), this will send too much voltage to the battery, which could eventually burn up the cells, or the ignition coil, which could eventually burn up the primary windings. Overcharging of the electrical system could also burn up the electronic ignition control module (crank trigger), burn out light bulbs, electric PTO clutch and any other electrical accessories. Gauges registers up to 15 or 20 amps of charge, depending on total output amperage of stator or alternator. As battery becomes fully charged, needle slowly moves from positive side (+) to zero (0). If no charge goes to the battery, needle will stay on negative side (–). Easy 2-wire connections. Connect the positive (+) terminal on back of gauge to the battery positive (+) post, and connect the negative (–) terminal on back of gauge to the wire going to the ignition switch that provides power to the ignition and all accessories. If the wires/connections are reversed, and if the charging system is in good working condition, the gauge will show discharge (–) instead of charge (+). Use minimum 12 gauge stranded wire. Non-lighted gauge. require 2" diameter mounting hole and comes with mounting clamp and nuts. 30 amp gauge kit discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # 48 755 18-S. Return to previous section.
  • 15 Amp Gauge Kit. require 2-1/4" diameter mounting hole. $19.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 20 Amp Gauge Kit. require 2-1/16" diameter mounting hole. $22.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
New 12 volt, 15 Amp Voltage Regulator for Starter/Generators. If the charging system continues to charge with no gradual "falling back" reading on the amp gauge (if installed), this will put too much voltage through the coil, eventually burning out the primary windings. Overcharging of the charging system could also burn up the electronic ignition control module (crank trigger), burn up the battery, burn out light bulbs, electric PTO clutch and any other electrical accessories. Replaces: Briggs & Stratton 295924; Delco 1118988; Gravely 7275; Jacobsen 107927; John Deere AM30078, AM11855; Tecumseh 32089. With terminals facing you, they read: L (Lights) | Bat (Battery) | F (Field), with A (Armature) on the bottom. L connects to the Lights (if equipped); Bat connects to the ignition switch, which connects to the positive + post on the battery; F connects to the Field terminal on the starter/generator; and Armature connects to the Armature terminal on the starter/generator underneath. The frame of the regulator is grounded to the tractor or equipment through the mounting bolts. NOTE: Cannot be substituted for use with the alternator/stator charging system.
  • $42.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Starter/Generator V-Belt for all IH-Built Cub Cadet Garden Tractors.
  • High quality aftermarket. 3/8 X 31.68" size. $11.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 3/8 X 31.5" size. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-376230-R1. $13.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 3/8 X 31.68" size. OEM MTD part # 954-04082A. $21.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
Two Wire Semiconductor Diodes. Either can be used to excite or energize field windings in a belt-driven automotive alternator or direct-drive 120/240 AC volt portable generator when powered by a small engine so alternator/generator will produce electricity as soon as engine starts. Can also be used as a rectifier in a small engine 3 amp non-regulated stator alternator charging system to convert alternating current (AC) to direct current (DC) to recharge the battery and/or power low-amperage electrical accessories. Not needed to power lights or an electric PTO clutch.
  • High quality aftermarket. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Briggs & Stratton part # 393814. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Diode kit. OEM Kohler part # 25 755 31-S. $12.52 each, plus shipping & handling.
AC Voltage Meter/Monitor. Designed to plug into any 120 volt wall receptacle, backup house generator or portable generator to provide a continuous, accurate reading of the AC line voltage. Use this meter to set the engine governored speed so generator will produce 120 volts to prevent from under-powering or over-powering electrical equipment.
  • $21.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
12 volt, 15/20 Amp Solid State Electronic Voltage Rectifier/Regulators. If the charging system continues to charge with no gradual "falling back" reading on the amp gauge (if installed), this will put too much voltage through the coil, eventually burning out the primary windings. Overcharging of the charging system could also burn up the electronic ignition control module (crank trigger), burn up the battery, burn out light bulbs, electric PTO clutch and any other electrical accessories. Each small and compact and have same mounting holes, and fit many 8 thru 24hp Kohler engine models with a 15 amp output alternator charging stator under the flywheel. Each mounts in the rectangular hole in the flywheel shroud with fins facing the flywheel for better cooling of unit. Terminals: "Three in a row" (AC - BAT+ - AC). NOTE: The voltage rectifier/regulators shown to the right work the same. The orientation of the terminals are for various applications. And these cannot be substituted for use with the starter/generator charging system.
  • Terminals under body of regulator. High quality aftermarket. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Terminals under body of regulator. OEM Kohler part # 41 403 10-S. $74.15 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Terminals extended from body of regulator. High quality aftermarket. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Terminals extended from body of regulator. OEM Kohler part # 25 755 03-S. $63.30 each, plus shipping & handling.
12 volt, 15/20 Amp Solid State Electronic Voltage Rectifier/Regulators. If the charging system continues to charge with no gradual "falling back" reading on the amp gauge (if installed), this will put too much voltage through the coil, eventually burning out the primary windings. Overcharging of the charging system could also burn up the electronic ignition control module (crank trigger), burn up the battery, burn out light bulbs, electric PTO clutch and any other electrical accessories. Each have same mounting holes and fit many 8 thru 24hp Kohler engines with a 15 amp output alternator charging stator under the flywheel. Can be used on most Harley-Davidson motorcycles, too. Terminals: "Two over (AC - AC), one under (BAT+)." NOTE: Cannot be substituted for use with the starter/generator charging system.
  • Large, old style w/fins. High quality aftermarket. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Large, old style w/fins. OEM Kohler part # 41 403 08-S. $490.37 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Compact, new style w/o fins. High quality aftermarket. $50.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Compact, new style w/o fins. OEM Kohler part # 25 403 22-S. $134.43 each, plus shipping & handling.
15-20 Amp Stator for 12 volt alternator charging systems. Use with either 15-20 amp voltage rectifier/regulator above È to power electrical accessories while recharging battery, or power electrical accessories without a battery. Fits most aluminum and cast iron block single and twin cylinder Kohler engine models K141, K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, KT17/KT17 series 2, KT19/KT19 series 2, KT21, M8-M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20, K482, K532, K582, CH1000, CH11-CH26, CH430, CH450, CH620-CH682, CH730-CH752, CH940, CH980, CV1000, CV11-CV25, CV430-CV493, CV620-CV682, CV725, CV730-CV940, CV960, CV980, ECV630-ECV680, ECV730-ECV749, ECV630-ECV680, ECV730-ECV749, ECV850-ECV880, ECV940, ECV980, FCV740, KT610, KT620, KT715-KT745, LH430, LH640-LH690, LH750, LH755, LV625-LV680, PCH680, PCH740, PCV680, PCV740, PCV850, PCV860, SV470-SV480, SV530-SV590, SV600-SV620, SV710-SV740, SV810-SV840, TH16, TH18, TH575, ZT710-ZT740, except various early John Deere with a single cylinder Kohler engine with the 4-1/4"± stator. Use with flywheel having six internal magnets, which will produce 15-20 amps at 3,600 RPM. If used with a flywheel having factory-installed three magnets spaced equally apart (rare), stator will only produce 7.5 amps at 3,600 RPM. Dimensions: 2-3/4" i.d. x 5-1/2" o.d. OEM Kohler part # 237878-S. Not available in aftermarket. L
  • Used and in excellent condition. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • New. $74.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Internal Flywheel Magnets for Alternator Charging System. Fits aluminum and cast iron block single and twin cylinder Kohler engine models K141, K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, KT17/KT17 series 2, KT19/KT19 series 2, KT21, M8-M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20, K482, K532, K582, CH1000, CH11-CH26, CH430, CH450, CH620-CH682, CH730-CH752, CH940, CH980, CV1000, CV11-CV25, CV430-CV493, CV620-CV682, CV725, CV730-CV940, CV960, CV980, ECV630-ECV680, ECV730-ECV749, ECV630-ECV680, ECV730-ECV749, ECV850-ECV880, ECV940, ECV980, FCV740, KT610, KT620, KT715-KT745, LH430, LH640-LH690, LH750, LH755, LV625-LV680, PCH680, PCH740, PCV680, PCV740, PCV850, PCV860, SV470-SV480, SV530-SV590, SV600-SV620, SV710-SV740, SV810-SV840, TH16, TH18, TH575, ZT710-ZT740, except various early John Deere with a single cylinder Kohler engine with the 4-1/4"± charging stator, and larger Tecumseh engines with an alternator charging system having the 5-1/2" diameter stator. Magnet(s) may come in 3/4" or 7/8" height, but will work the same. Comes with North-South poles identified. Not available separate from Kohler. Used and in excellent condition.
  • IMPORTANT - Before ordering individual magnet(s), please state if you need a magnet with North-South-North, or South-North-South magnetic pole positions. Click here to learn how to identify the pole positions.
  • Single Magnet. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
  • Set of Six Magnets. $50.00 per set, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
10 Amp Voltage Rectifier/Regulators for 10 amp charging stator below Ê. Terminals: "Three in a row" (AC | BAT+ | AC). NOTE: Cannot be substituted for use with the starter/generator charging system.
  • High quality aftermarket. (Small, w/o fins). $66.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • High quality aftermarket. (Large, w/fins). $68.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 41 403 08-S. $476.10 each, plus shipping & handling.
10 Amp Stator for 12 volt alternator charging systems. To be used with battery ignition only. This will not work with Tecumseh Solid State or Kohler Breakerless Ignition Systems. require a special flywheel (part # A-236864) with the charging magnets embedded on an aluminum casing. Use with 10 amp voltage rectifier/regulator above È. Can be used to power electrical accessories while recharging battery, or power electrical accessories without a battery. Fits only John Deere garden tractors with a Tecumseh cast iron block engine or Kohler engine models K241 w/spec #'s 46593 and 46608; K301 w/spec #'s 47148, 47175, 47399 and 47419; K321 w/spec #'s 60102, 60118, 60136 and 60136A. Dimensions: 2-3/4" i.d. x 4-5/8" o.d. x 2-1/4" bolt pattern. Discontinued from Kohler. OEM Kohler part # 237065-S; John Deere part #'s AM32073, AM32334 (w/o solid state ignition); replaces Tecumseh part # 610761A (w/o solid state ignition). Not available in aftermarket. L
  • Used and in excellent condition. $100.00 each, plus shipping and handling. (When available.)
10 Amp Stator with Integrated Tecumseh Solid State or Kohler Breakerless Ignition Energizer Coil. To be used with a Kohler or Tecumseh flywheel designed for a John Deere garden tractor. Use with 10 amp voltage rectifier/regulator above È. Stator can be used to power electrical accessories while recharging battery, or power electrical accessories without a battery. Fits John Deere garden tractors with a cast iron block Tecumseh engine model VH80, VH100, HH80, HH100, HH120, OH140, OH150, OH160 and OH180 with solid state ignition, and used on Kohler engine models K241 w/spec #'s 46593 and 46608; K301 w/spec #'s 47148, 47175, 47399 and 47419; K321 w/spec #'s 60102, 60118, 60136 and 60136A with Breakerless Ignition. Dimensions: 2-3/4" i.d. x 4-5/8" o.d. x 2-1/4" bolt pattern. OEM Tecumseh part # 610761A; OEM Kohler part # 2377870-S, John Deere part # AM31738. Not available in aftermarket. L IMPORTANT: The wire that comes from the stator under the flywheel for the Kohler Trigger Module or Tecumseh Solid State Ignition Module generates about 250 volts while the engine is running at full governored speed (serious). Do not touch this wire (terminal) with one bare hand and the engine itself with your other hand while the engine is running! It is not needed for any of my crank trigger ignition systems. So snip off this wire or tape up the terminal to prevent a short circuit or electrocution.
  • Used and in excellent condition. $125.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)

How to Fix a Briggs & Stratton Opposed Twin Cylinder Engine Starter Motor When the Gear Teeth Will Not Fully Engage in the Flywheel Ring Gear Teeth -


Information on Kohler (and most small engines) Charging Systems - Top of page

First of all, the battery's only purpose in virtually any vehicle is to provide power to the starter motor to crank the engine and power electrical accessories when the engine isn't running. When the engine is running, and while the battery is being recharged, the alternator or generator then powers the electrical accessories through the voltage rectifier/regulator. With the engine running, and with a good working charging system, the battery has nothing to do with powering the electrical accessories. The ignition system also have nothing to do with the charging system. It's only purpose is to provide spark to the engine. The charging system and ignition system are two totally separate systems. One has nothing to do with the other, other than the charging system provides power to the battery-powered ignition system. A magneto or solid state ignition is a stand-alone system. It does not depend on the battery or charging system whatsoever.

The Generator Charging System -

The voltage-producing generating part of a starter/generator (or just the generator unit in an older automobile or heavy equipment machinery) produces DC (direct current) electricity. These are belt-driven and require a mechanical voltage regulator to regulate the charge to the battery and power electrical accessories (such as lights, electric PTO clutch, etc.) at the same time. The faster the engine runs, the more voltage and amperage the generator produces. And unlike a belt-driven automotive-type alternator, the generator is self-energizing. It will produce its own electricity when spun fast enough. A charged battery is not required.

Although bulky, heavy and uses more space next to the engine, this system is reliable, but produce little- to no-charge at low idle speeds and are considered obsolete by today's standards. Also, this system require more horsepower from the engine than the alternator system while recharging the battery and/or under a heavy electrical load.

The correct way to connect the wires on the starter/generator is as follows...

IMPORTANT! If either of the smaller wires is connected to the wrong terminal, the field windings inside the starter/generator will burn up instantly upon engine start up! But somehow, the starter/generator will still crank the engine. (Odd... ???) See the drawing to the right for wiring instructions. ä

A starter/generator can be adapted to virtually any horizontal shaft or vertical shaft small engine with a fabricated mounting bracket and a slotted adjusting brace to tighten the belt. The starter/generator will need to be installed opposite the carburetor side of the block. They come in two rotations: clockwise and counter-clockwise. Starter/generators that spin clockwise came on older Wheel Horse, Sears Suburban, Bolens, or any engine that's started from the flywheel end. A counter-clockwise starter/generator came mostly on older Cub Cadets, or any engine that's started from the PTO end. A clockwise rotation starter/generator will need to be used if it's driven from the flywheel end. But if it's driven from the PTO end, it will need to be a counter-clockwise rotation starter/generator. If the wrong starter/generator is used, it'll crank the engine opposite of normal rotation, and not recharge the battery.

If a starter/generator is belt-driven by an engine and used only as a generator to charge up a vehicle's battery and/or power 12 volt appliances or lights, the heavy battery cable won't need to be used. And there's about a 3:1 ratio between the starter/generator and engine. This means the starter/generator spins about 3 times faster than the engine. So the pulley on the engine will need to be about 3 times bigger than the pulley on the starter/generator to adequately recharge a battery and/or power 12 volt electrical appliances or lights. A starter/generator require a minimum 7/16hp engine running at a governored 3,600 RPM for it to produce a regulated 15 amps @ 13.5 volts. (15 amps x 13.5 volts = 202.5 watts x 2 = 405 = .4hp engine.) Read on the back label of the appliance you plan to use for how many amps it draws, then you'll know if the generator will be able to handle the load.

But on a pulling tractor, if the engine isn't going to have a charging system, a voltage regulator and wiring isn't required as long as the battery is fully charged with a remote battery charger before the engine is ran again. Plus, the battery will need to be in a secure place, and route the wiring in a safe manner. Go here to learn how to repair a Delco-Remy starter/generator: Delco-Remy SG Repair.pdf. (require Adobe Acrobat Reader and use Google Chrome web browser for a faster download of web sites with large files.)

The Alternator (Stator) Charging Systems -

Kohler used six different models of stators on their engines. They are rated at 1.25 amp, which is used only to charge the battery; 3 amp, which is used to charge the battery and supply power for lights and/or an electric PTO clutch; and the 10, 15, 25 and 30 amp stators, which are used to charge the battery and power heavier electrical loads.

The low-output stators (1.25 and 3 amp) require a diode to convert the electrical Alternating Current (AC) to Direct Current (DC) only to recharge the battery. Lights and electric PTO clutches don't require direct current, so they can operate without a diode. And the reason the 1.25 and 3 amp stators don't require a voltage rectifier/regulator is because, for normal use, an average engine don't run long enough for these stators to over-charge the battery, or burn out the lights and/or an electric PTO clutch.

But the high-output stators (10, 15, 25, 30 amp or more), rather it's a charging stator under the flywheel on a small engine or belt-driven automotive-type alternator, require an electronic "rectifier/regulator" to convert the AC to DC (direct current) and to regulate the amount of charge into the battery and limit the amount of voltage throughout the entire electrical system while powering electrical accessories at the same time. The faster the engine runs, the more voltage and amperage the stator produces.

Although very reliable, weather-proof and virtually maintenance-free, this system produces an adequate charge at low idle speeds.

This system is the standard of today's charging systems used on virtually all small engines, motorcycles, snowmobiles, automotive engines, heavy equipment machinery, etc.

And unlike the belt-driven automotive-type alternator, an alternator under the flywheel is self-energizing. It will produce electricity when the flywheel is spun fast enough.

How to Identify the Three Wires Coming from an Engine -

Use a digital or analog multimeter set on the ohms (d) resistance to test each wire coming from the engine. With the engine not running, ground one test lead to the engine, and connect the other lead to each wire one at a time. If one wire shows resistance, this is the ignition kill wire. If the engine has points, the crankshaft may need to be rotated by hand until the wire shows resistance. (This is when the points close.) And if the other two wires show no resistance, these are the charging stator lead wires. When the test leads are connected to the two wires with no resistance, they should show 100% resistance. These two wires connect to the voltage regulator/rectifier. Be sure to mark each wire with masking tape or something to identify them.

How to Test a Small Engine Alternator Charging Stator - Top of page

First of all, all charging stators produce AC voltage and there's a diode built-into the voltage rectifier/regulator. (Rectifier = converts AC to DC; Regulator = regulates voltage to the battery and other electrical accessories.) If the diode is shorted, it'll drain the battery and burn up the stator windings. The stator windings are not originally grounded, they're isolated from the engine block. And dirt on the stator or the magnets in the flywheel don't inference with the magnetism to the stator whatsoever. Stators rarely become defective, unless the two wires are connected to each other while the engine is running, causing a short.

To test if a stator is good or not, use an analog or digital multimeter set on ohms (d) resistance. With the engine not running and the wires to the stator disconnected from the voltage rectifier/regulator, connect the test leads to the wires on the stator. If the ohm meter shows resistance, the stator is good. Then connect one test lead to each stator wire and the other test lead to the metal frame of the stator. There should be no resistance.

With the engine running, when testing the voltage output of a 15amp or higher amperage stator, connect the two wires coming from the stator to an analog or digital multimeter set at more than 28 volts in the AC setting. With the engine running at full governored speed, the reading should be 28 to 36 volts. If it's less than 28 volts, the stator is defective. If the reading is more than 36 volts, the windings may be burnt, causing a short within the windings, resulting in an increase of voltage, which will likely cause the voltage rectifier/regulator to go bad, and possibly burn up the battery, ignition coil and/or electrical accessories. This testing procedure applies to all makes and models of small engines, including motorcycles and snowmobiles with the stator under the flywheel. Make sure the slip-on terminals on the stator's wires are in good condition and fit snug on the voltage rectifier/regulator's spade terminals. If the slip-on terminal(s) fit loose or have a faulty connection due to rust, they could arc while charging and burn out the spade terminal(s) and/or the heat from the arcing could travel inside the voltage rectifier/regulator and burn it out.

Testing the Voltage Rectifier/Regulator -

The easiest and most accurate way to test a voltage rectifier/regulator is with an analog or digital multimeter set in the DC setting above 12 volts, and with a known good charging stator installed in an engine while the engine is running. With the engine off, connect the stator's two wires to the rectifier/regulator's two outer terminals (being it's AC, it doesn't matter which wire connects to which terminal). With the engine running at 3,200 RPM (when the engine has a fixed/non-adjustable main jet carburetor) or 3,600 RPM (when the engine has an adjustable main jet carburetor), check the voltage output at the center terminal on the rectifier/regulator. If the voltmeter displays or reads 14.5 volts, the rectifier/regulator is good. If less than 14.5 volts or no voltage, the rectifier/regulator is defective. By the way - the older rectifier/regulator with fins works the same as the newer ones with no fins.

Go here for more information:

IMPORTANT! The rectifier-regulator must match the amperage output of the stator it's connected to. If a 15 amp rectifier-regulator is used with a 25 or 30 amp stator, the rectifier-regulator will burn up. A 32 amp voltage rectifier/regulator that's made for Harley-Davidson motorcycles will work with a Kohler 30 amp stator. The starter/generators and voltage regulators used on all garden tractors are rated at 15 amps. And a voltage regulator can't be used with a stator, nor the rectifier-regulator can be used with a generator.

To connect an alternator stator... the two leads from the stator connects to the two outer terminals on the rectifier-regulator. The center terminal on the rectifier-regulator then connects to the battery's + post or the ignition switch that connects to the battery's + post. It's that simple. And the rectifier-regulator has diodes built-in. So there's no need to add diodes in the circuit.

How to Replace the Charging Stator on a Kohler engine -

  1. Remove the flywheel.
  2. Remove the four Phillips head screws that secures the stator to the bearing plate. If the screws refuse to loosen, strike the end of the screwdriver with a medium size hammer at the same time while turning the screw.
  3. Remove the clamp that secures the stator wires to the bearing plate. This clamp is to prevent the wires from making contact with the flywheel.
  4. Disconnect stator's terminal(s) or plastic connector from the voltage rectifier/regulator.
  5. With a small, flat screwdriver, depress the locking tang (see drawing above È) on each terminal that secures the terminals in the plastic connector. Pull the terminals from the connector. Inspect the terminals for damage. Replace them with the same type terminals and reuse the plastic connector, or replace them with ordinary crimp-type slip-on terminals and discard the plastic connector. IMPORTANT: the stator wires ALWAYS connect to the two outer terminals on the voltage rectifier/regulator (it doesn't matter which wire connects to which terminal), and the battery (+) positive wire connects to the center terminal.
  6. The stator can now be removed from the engine.
  7. Installation is in reverse order of removal.

Converting the old starter/generator charging system to the newer, alternator-equipped charging system -

First off, all of the K241-K361 Kohler flywheels will interchange. The crankshaft tapers are the same. They're the same weight, too. The alternator stator-type charging system will also work on a narrow frame Cub Cadet, but the tractor frame must be widened to accept the larger diameter flywheel, bearing plate and shroud. The larger bearing plate will accept the stator/charging ring. And you'll need a voltage rectifier/regulator that's capable of handling the amount of amps that the stator will produce. Stators installed on most Kohler engines have a 15, 20, 25 or 30 amp output. Most common are the 15 or 20 amp stators. To identify the amount of amps a stator can produce...

If a voltage rectifier/regulator that's made for a smaller [amperage] output is used with a higher amp output stator, it'll burn up in no time. Remember, the higher the amperage of a charging system, the more horsepower it'll draw from the engine (when under a heavy charging load). For wiring diagrams of various Cub Cadets, see this web site: http://www.ihregistry.com/ref/wire.htm. Refer to the Kohler K-Series Single Cylinder Engine Service Manual TP-2379, Kohler Magnum Single Cylinder Engine Service Manual TP-2203-A, Kohler KT17, KT17 series 2, KT19, KT19 series 2, KT21 Service Manual TP-2043-A, Kohler M18, M20 Service Manual TP-2204-B, Kohler MV16, MV18, MV20 Service Manual TP-2289-A or Kohler K482, K532, K582 & K662 Service Manual ENS-607 for more information on charging systems. (require Adobe Acrobat Reader and use Google Chrome web browser for a faster download of web sites with large files.)


How to Reinstall Loose Ceramic Magnet(s) or Replace a Broken Magnet Inside a Flywheel - Top of page

When a ceramic magnet becomes loose inside the flywheel, if it is not broken, it can be reinstalled with Krazy Glue, Super Glue, Gorilla Glue, or any industrial strength adhesive. Broken magnets cannot be reused. A broken magnet must be replaced with an identical magnet in good condition. A broken magnet actually becomes two magnets with a north and south pole on each broken piece, and will not work at all in a small engine alternator charging system. Even if the two pieces are glued together, the magnetic poles may or may not attract, and the molecules cannot bond together to form one single magnet.

To remove good, reusable ceramic magnets from a flywheel (for whatever reason), first of all, place a number on each magnet in their position in the flywheel (1-2-3-4-5-6) with a Sharpie metallic silver permanent marker or paint marker so they can be reinstalled in the correct order. For magnets that's held in place with aluminum compression pins, simply use an 1/8" roll pin punch and a medium size hammer to drive out one pin toward the center of the flywheel, then all the magnets will be loose and can be removed from the flywheel by hand. For magnets that's held in place with glue, use a propane torch or an oxy-acetylene torch with a small flame to heat the cast iron part of the flywheel on the outer (glued) part of each magnet to soften the glue, and then CAREFULLY and GENTLY remove the magnets with a thin, sharpened steel putty knife or scraper and small hammer. Do not apply heat directly to the magnet itself, it could break! Due to the heating process, and to prevent from being burned, use a shop towel to handle each hot magnet. TO AVOID BREAKAGE, DO NOT COOL CERAMIC MAGNETS WITH WATER! Allow them to air-cool.

CORRECTION (Updated 3/18/17) -

Internal flywheel stator magnets are very odd type of magnets. They do not have just North and South magnetic pole ends (such as U-shaped or horseshoe magnets). There are a total of six magnets in the flywheel. From the inside curve of each magnet, three magnets have the magnetic pole positions as: South-North-South (with North being in the center of each magnet), and from the inside curve of the other three magnets, they are: North-South-North (with South being in the center of each magnet). To identify which pole is which, from inside the curve of each magnet (not the outside curve), use another [strong] magnet with the magnetic poles identified and marked, or use a high quality simple magnetic portable compass to identify the magnetic poles of each flywheel magnet. Always identify the magnetic poles from the inside curve of each magnet, and not the outside curve. By the way - When the magnetic North and South poles on a U-shaped or horseshoe magnet isn't marked or identified, to correctly find which pole is which, fasten a thin string or sewing thread to the middle of the magnet, and allow it to dangle in midair. It may take a few minutes for the string or thread to unwind so the magnet will stop spinning and come to a full rest. Make sure no other magnets are nearby. The ends of the magnet to be tested will attract to the Earth's natural North and South magnetic poles. When the poles have been identified, mark which pole is which with a Sharpie metallic silver permanent marker or paint marker for future reference. Dangling Kohler flywheel magnets by a string to identify the poles will not work. And use caution when handling ceramic (flywheel) magnets! They are very brittle and can break easily if mishandled. Do not allow them to quickly snap together or quickly attract to a large steel or cast iron object. Return to previous paragraph or website.

Before installing magnet(s) in the flywheel, clean both the flywheel and outside curve of the magnet(s) thoroughly with brake cleaner or cleaning solvent (paint thinner). Then use soap and clean water afterwards to remove any dirt or debris. When installing the magnet(s), it's important that the north and south pole ends of each magnet is in correct alignment, with the pole ends opposite of each other. When the poles physically attract, they're in the correct alignment. Use Krazy Glue, Super Glue, Gorilla Glue, or any industrial strength adhesive. Make sure the magnets are spaced equally apart upon installation, too. Go here for more information on this subject: Flywheel Magnets (http://enginesandmagnets.com/id2.html).

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If you need any of the parts or services listed below Ê, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends (except Holidays). Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival. Fax: 1-573-449-7347. E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. Please click here to place an order.
Internal Flywheel Magnets for Alternator Charging System. Fits aluminum and cast iron block single and twin cylinder Kohler engine models K141, K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, KT17/KT17 series 2, KT19/KT19 series 2, KT21, M8-M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20, K482, K532, K582, CH1000, CH11-CH26, CH430, CH450, CH620-CH682, CH730-CH752, CH940, CH980, CV1000, CV11-CV25, CV430-CV493, CV620-CV682, CV725, CV730-CV940, CV960, CV980, ECV630-ECV680, ECV730-ECV749, ECV630-ECV680, ECV730-ECV749, ECV850-ECV880, ECV940, ECV980, FCV740, KT610, KT620, KT715-KT745, LH430, LH640-LH690, LH750, LH755, LV625-LV680, PCH680, PCH740, PCV680, PCV740, PCV850, PCV860, SV470-SV480, SV530-SV590, SV600-SV620, SV710-SV740, SV810-SV840, TH16, TH18, TH575, ZT710-ZT740, except various early John Deere with a single cylinder Kohler engine with the 4-1/4"± charging stator, and larger Tecumseh engines with an alternator charging system having the 5-1/2" diameter stator. Magnet(s) may come in 3/4" or 7/8" height, but will work the same. Comes with North-South poles identified. Not available separate from Kohler. Used and in excellent condition.
  • IMPORTANT - Before ordering individual magnet(s), please state if you need a magnet with North-South-North, or South-North-South magnetic pole positions. Click here to learn how to identify the pole positions.
  • Single Magnet. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
  • Set of Six Magnets. $50.00 per set, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)


Using an Automotive Alternator with a Small Engine to Recharge the Battery and/or Power Electrical Accessories - Top of page

If an [older] small engine has an obsolete charging system, or if the magnet(s) in the flywheel are broken or missing, and there's no magnets available, or if there's no stator or voltage rectifier/regulator available, or if repairing the original charging system is just too costly, or if you simply need more amps to power some "heavy duty" electrical accessories, well, if there's enough space in the engine compartment, an automotive alternator can be used. It doesn't matter about the rotation direction of the alternator, because they all produce AC voltage and the diodes inside them convert the AC to DC to recharge the battery and power electrical accessories. Ordinary automotive alternators produce anywhere from 65-100 amps of power at 1,500+ engine RPM (most belt-driven alternators turn about 3-1/2 times faster than the engine). But the high-output alternators produce 200-350 amps of power at 1,500+ engine RPM. Alternators from the 1970s-1990s incorporate the voltage regulator/rectifier into the alternator housing. Modern designs do away with the voltage regulator altogether; voltage regulation is now a function of the electronic control unit (ECU). Click here to see automotive alternators powered by small engines.

A belt-driven automotive-type alternator or various direct-drive 120/240 AC volt portable generators require a small electrical charge to excite or energize the field windings so it will produce electricity as soon as the engine starts. Otherwise, the alternator or generator will not produce electricity. In an automobile, the current for the field windings is supplied by the battery through the ignition switch while the engine is being started, and once the engine is started, the armature windings (on the stator) generate enough current and voltage to power the field windings, so the alternator becomes self-exciting and no external power source is needed to power the field winding. But with a small engine and no battery and starter motor (recoil starter only) the field windings needs to be excited with an external power source to make it work. The field windings in the alternator/generator can be excited or energized by the engine's ignition system (magneto or battery-powered) or small charging stator under the flywheel with use of a two wire semiconductor diode. The wire on the end of the semiconductor diode with the colored stripe (cathode (–)) will need to be connected to the field windings, and the other wire on the diode (anode (+)) connects to the wire between the points and condenser/capacitor and battery-ignition coil, or the [kill] wire between the solid state electronic magneto ignition module and magneto coil. Electricity can only travel in one direction in a diode. Therefore, use of a diode in this application will prevent any current from the alternator or generator from disrupting the ignition system or burning out the solid state module.

And to prevent from burning up the windings, install an inline fuse holder or circuit breaker in case the alternator or generator gets severely overloaded. To determine the size of fuse or circuit breaker, figure how many amps all the connected electrical accessories draw, then use a fuse or an automatic circuit breaker with an amp rating slightly higher to prevent the fuse from burning out or the circuit breaker from overloading and popping. If the alternator or generator is severely overloaded, the fuse will need to be replaced and the circuit breaker will automatically reset itself.

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If you need the part listed below Ê, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends (except Holidays). Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival. Fax: 1-573-449-7347. E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. Please click here to place an order.
Two Wire Semiconductor Diodes. Either can be used to excite or energize field windings in a belt-driven automotive alternator or direct-drive 120/240 AC volt portable generator when powered by a small engine so alternator/generator will produce electricity as soon as engine starts. Can also be used as a rectifier in a small engine 3 amp non-regulated stator alternator charging system to convert alternating current (AC) to direct current (DC) to recharge the battery and/or power low-amperage electrical accessories. Not needed to power lights or an electric PTO clutch.
  • High quality aftermarket. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Briggs & Stratton part # 393814. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Diode kit. OEM Kohler part # 25 755 31-S. $12.52 each, plus shipping & handling.
AC Voltage Meter/Monitor. Designed to plug into any 120 volt wall receptacle, house backup generator or portable [RV] generator or welder to provide an accurate reading of the AC line voltage. Use this meter to set the engine governored speed so generator/welder will produce 120 volts of continuous power to prevent from under-powering or over-powering electrical equipment.
  • $21.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

An automotive alternator that produces a maximum of 60 amps will require a minimum 1.44 of engine horsepower. (60 [amps] x 12 [volts] = 720 [watts] x 2 = 1440, which converts to 1.44 horsepower.) An alternator that produces a maximum of 350 amps will require a minimum 8.4 of engine horsepower. (350 [amps] x 12 [volts] = 4200 [watts] x 2 = 8400, which converts to 8.4 horsepower.) So when using an alternator that produces more amps, be sure to use a big enough engine to handle the amperage, or the engine will bog down or the V-belt will slip when a heavy electrical load is placed on the alternator.

FYI - Amps is converted into watts simply by multiplying the known amps by the full voltage, which will display the full watts. And watts is converted [back] into amps by dividing the known watts by the full voltage, which will display the full amps. To find the amount of amps or watts any particular appliance require, look on the manufacturer's label or sticker. It should display it there. If the amps draw is unknown, then an amp tester will need to be used. If connecting multiple appliances together to one generator, add up the amps or watts of each appliance, and that should tell you the total amps or watts will be required to power everything.

To have a small engine drive an automotive alternator, install an automotive pulley (serpentine or v-belt) on the flywheel or PTO end of the engine, and make sure it's centered so it'll turn true and not wobble. Most automotive alternators spin about 3-1/2 times faster than the engine to produce full charge. So at 1,500 engine RPM, and with a 3.5:1 increase in ratio, the alternator spins at 5,250 RPM. This means the engine drive pulley will need to be 3-1/2 times bigger than the pulley on the alternator so the alternator will produce full charge. Align and mount the engine and alternator side by side so the alternator can be spun 3-1/2 times faster than the engine RPM. Do not mount them so they'll be directly in-line with each other. Doing this would allow the alternator to be driven at a the same speed as the engine (1:1 ratio), and it won't be able to spin fast enough to produce full charge. If space is an issue, a [small] 1970s-1990s model import car or truck alternator can be used. The 1970s-1990s alternators have just one terminal, which connects directly to the battery's positive (+) post. Fabricate a bracket to install the alternator and a slotted adjusting bracket to adjust/tighten the belt. And as long the engine is running fast enough for the alternator to produce full charge (approximately 2,000 RPM), it wouldn't matter if the engine is running any faster, because the alternator will only produce a certain amount of amperage and voltage. Finally, if the engine bogs down slightly while the alternator is under a heavy electrical load, this means the alternator is working perfectly. And to prevent from burning up the windings, install an inline fuse holder or circuit breaker in case the alternator or generator gets severely overloaded. To determine the size of fuse or circuit breaker, figure how many amps all the connected electrical accessories draw, then use a fuse or an automatic circuit breaker with an amp rating slightly higher to prevent the fuse from burning out or the circuit breaker from overloading and popping. If the alternator or generator is severely overloaded, the fuse will need to be replaced and the circuit breaker will automatically reset itself. Having a fuse or circuit breaker (and amp gauge if the engine has a charging system) installed is very important to prevent failure of electrical components. By the time you smell something burning or see smoke, it may be too late.


Using a Small Engine to Power a [Portable] 120/240 AC Volt Generator -

If using a generator that connects directly to the engine, a special PTO tapered-end crankshaft will need to be used. Otherwise, the generator can be belt-driven with a 1:1 ratio. And being the generator produces AC current, with most of them, it doesn't matter which rotation it turns (clockwise or counter-clockwise). But if it is directional, make sure it rotates in the right direction. And to match the generator to the engine or vice-versa, the generator output kilowatts will need to be half the horsepower of the engine. For example: a 5,000 watt (5 KW) generator will require a minimum 10hp engine, a 6,000 (6 KW) watt generator will require a minimum 12hp engine, etc. If a too small of an engine is used with a too big of a generator, the engine will probably lug down or possibly die when under a severe electrical load. The same will happen if the engine is in need of an overhaul to boost the horsepower. And to prevent from burning up the windings, install an inline fuse holder or circuit breaker in case the alternator or generator gets severely overloaded. To determine the size of fuse or circuit breaker, figure how many amps all the connected electrical accessories draw, then use a fuse or an automatic circuit breaker with an amp rating slightly higher to prevent the fuse from burning out or the circuit breaker from overloading and popping. If the alternator or generator is severely overloaded, the fuse will need to be replaced and the circuit breaker will automatically reset itself. Having a fuse or circuit breaker (and amp gauge if the engine has a charging system) installed is very important to prevent failure of electrical components. By the time you smell something burning or see smoke, it may be too late.


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If you wish to have your Kohler stock or pulling engine tested on a dynamometer (dyno), please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends (except Holidays). Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival. Fax: 1-573-449-7347. E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest.

A-1 Miller's Fully Computerized Stuska Water Brake Engine Dynamometer (Dyno) Service!

For performance testing engines up to 200hp at speeds up to 12,000 RPM. The only engine dyno service in Missouri for Kohler pulling engines! Now set up and fully operational, customers can rent dyno time, fine tune and make adjustments or changes to their engines for maximum horsepower and torque, and print-out the results so their tractor(s) will be truly competitive on the track.

Engine Dyno Rental Fee: $30.00 per hour run time from the moment the engine is started. No setup fee for Cub Cadet engines with a 3- or 6-pin/stud clutch driver. An adapter may need to be needed or fabricated for other makes and models of engines. Only engines with the narrow base oil pan can be tested. Engines with the wide base (tall) oil pan cannot be tested at this time.


To place an order and/or for technical assistance, please contact:

A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends (except Holidays). Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival. Fax: 1-573-449-7347. E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can always make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally drop off and/or pick up your engine, transaxle, tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long."

To place an order, please call the number below Ê or send an email with your name, complete and correct postal address and phone number and so I can figure the total with shipping cost and USPS Tracking. For payment options for parts ordered or services performed, or to make a donation to my websites, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge), Western Union Money Transfer, MoneyGram Money Transfers or Popmoney. (If a part for a specific purpose is special ordered, your debit/credit card may be charged for the full amount or as a deposit right after your order is placed; please do not send your debit/credit card information in email!) Or you can pay me through PayPal. (My PayPal account name is my email address. And be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment is for.) If sending a money order, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone number and a description of what the payment is for. My mailing address and phone number are below Ê . I'll make a note of your order, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send the parts to you as soon as I have everything in stock after I receive your payment.

IMPORTANT - When sending your part(s) to me for rebuilding or repair, package everything securely so the item(s) won't get damaged in shipping and please include a note in the box with your name, mailing address, phone number (in case I have any questions) and a description of what you want done. When shipping heavy parts, it's best to put a slightly smaller box inside a larger box, to double the strength and integrity of the package. Because the clumsy "gorillas" or incompetent and uncaring workers that work for certain delivery services mishandle the heavy packages and don't care. And when the work is completed, I'll either call or email you an invoice with the total including shipping and handling.

To figure the shipping cost, I weigh the package with the parts, then I go online to the USPS Postage Rate Calculator website. I type in the weight, my zip code and your zip code, then it shows me the prices for various ways to ship the package. I always choose US Postal Service because I believe that's the most fastest, economical and reliable method.

Shipping: (United States and it's territories)
To save you shipping charges, item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 13 oz. is sent by First Class Mail for a 2-6 day delivery. Most packaged item(s) weighing over 13 oz. is sent by US Priority Mail for a 2-3 day delivery. To save you even more on shipping heavy items, I always try to use the US Postal Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelope and boxes (if the item(s) can fit inside the envelope or boxes). Some heavy items weighing no more than 70 lbs. is sent by US Mail Parcel Post. Item(s) weighing over 70 lbs. is sent by FedEx Ground. Again, if you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can always make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally drop off and/or pick up your engine, transaxle, tractor, etc.

Ship to Canada and Worldwide þüý -
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S. territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground or equivalent services.


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(When placing an order through PayPal, please provide a list of which parts you need.)

To make a payment to me through PayPal, go to PayPal's secure website ( https://www.paypal.com/ ) and click on Send and Request -> Pay for goods or services. Type in my email address, or copy and paste this: pullingtractor@aol.com, the amount and follow the directions. Be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment is for. After you've finished, PayPal will send me an email notifying me that you have made a payment to me for the product(s) or services and amount entered. Then I go to their website and direct PayPal to deposit the money in my bank account. And I will send the parts to you as soon as I receive your payment. But I may have to order some of the parts if they're not in stock, which should take a few days. In that case, I will send you the parts as soon as they come in. PayPal protects your financial privacy and security. With PayPal, privacy is built in. It's a way for you to pay without exposing their financial information.


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