Concerning the COVID-19 situation: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises is still in business and offering all the parts and services that's listed in this website. Please acknowledge your appreciation of the information in this website by making a donation through PayPal or to pay for an order.
Serving the Small Engine and Garden Tractor Pulling Community Since
1996. Where Science and Common Sense Come Together for Safety and Improved
Engine/Tractor Performance
A-1
Miller's Performance Enterprises - Parts & Services Online
Catalog
Updated 10/6/20. (Click Refresh to see changes or updates.) Optimized for 1024 x 768 screen resolution. To search for a word or phrase in any of my web sites, press CTRL and F to open the Find dialog box in your web browser. Or scroll down, or click the links below...
There's a cheater in every sport, and competition tractor
pulling is no different. Honest pullers who ignore the cheater(s) are fools.
And when there's prize money involved, a fool and their money are soon parted.
Anyway, to make competition pulling a fun and fair sport for the entire family,
be protective of your equipment! While at the pulls, keep an eye on your
killswitch plug! When a competitive or winning pulling tractor is left
unattended, it's been known that certain disgruntled pullers
(sore losers
) belonging
to various associations/clubs, virtually anywhere and everywhere, will pull
a competitor's killswitch plug and toss it out of sight. This is one of the
easiest, dishonest and sneaky ways to disable and sabotage a competitor's
tractor. All a cheater needs is an opportunity in an attempt to gain an advantage
on the track. This is also the fastest way for a pulling association or club
to gain a bad reputation and lose honest pullers. (Bad news travels fast.)
This type of behavior doesn't happen often, but you need to be prepared if
or when it does happen. To be prepared for this unforeseeable extra killswitch
plug with you. This kind of dishonest behavior doesn't happen often, but
you need to be prepared if or when it does happen.
Keep an eye on your
carburetor, too! Always try to stay one step ahead of a cheater. Because
there's cheaters in every sport, and nobody likes a cheater, not even cheaters
themselves!
But then again, if the
winning tractor is suspected of cheating on the track (illegal fuel, engine,
weight, etc.), there's always the protest rule. But only if it's enforced
by the pulling association. Remember - cheating is devious theft with a sly
smirk. Heck, some pulling associations/clubs vote-in and/or change certain
rules in a meeting during the off-season, lock them in for several years,
but don't even enforce or follow their own rules during the pulling season!
They change their rules so often, they might as well just write them in pencil!
Another thing I don't understand is when a [prominent] puller of an
association/club ask the president of the club if an illegal part can be
used in his engine for pulling, and the president says, "yeah, sure!" But
the pulling association/club's sanctioning rules, the very same rules that
the members (pullers) of the association/club discussed about and voted-on
in a meeting, clearly states in black and white that such a part cannot be
used.
Safety First! Fabricating a Killswitch - [Top of Page]
First
of all, in order to kill both the [battery-powered] ignition system and electric
fuel pump, the tractor will need a heavy duty, "connect the wires yourself"
3-prong electrical male plug and matching female receptacle. About 4 feet
length of minimum 14 gauge 2-wire lamp cord will also be needed. Connect
the wires so both the battery-powered ignition system and
electric fuel pump circuits
will be disabled when the plug is pulled from the receptacle.
Here's how to connect the wires:
Or for a self-energizing magneto
or solid state electronic ignition system, or battery-powered ignition system,
the "grounding" type of kill switch can
be used. This is actually a break-away safety kill switch for an ATV, jet
ski, boat or towing trailer. When the pin is pulled, it grounds the ignition
coil from producing any spark, instantly killing the engine. If using this
type of kill switch with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic
ignition system: Connect one wire to the engine or chassis ground, and connect
the other wire to the ignition points/condenser wire or to the kill terminal
on the solid state electronic ignition coil/module. If using with a
battery-powered ignition system: Connect one wire to the chassis ground,
and connect the other wire to the coil negative () terminal. NOTE:
With battery-powered ignition, as soon as the pin is pulled (the engine will
die), immediately shut off the ignition switch to prevent power going to
the ignition coil (and electronic ignition module if equipped with
crank-trigger ignition) to keep from
over-heating and burning up. This type of switch will not disable power
to the electric fuel pump on
a pulling tractor. The electric fuel pump must be shut-off manually by the
ignition switch or an OFF-ON switch.
Ignition Solutions -
Spark-ignited engines requires a spark to initiate burning of the air-fuel mixture in the combustion chamber. The spark in each cylinder is provided by a spark plug and is actually a flow of electrical current through the air and fuel vapor between the closely spaced electrodes of the spark plug. The resistance of air is very high. Therefore, a 15,000- to 30,000-volt potential across the gap is used to fire the plug. Typically, the ignition system must supply this high voltage from a 12 volt DC power source, such as a storage battery. Moreover, the spark must begin at the proper point in the cycle and must be of sufficient duration.
Whenever a manufacturer wants to sell their latest fancy ignition system, they run a bench test that shows that their unit puts out more voltage than the other guy's. If you read enough ads with claims of extremely high available voltage, you may begin to think that voltage is the only thing necessary to make an ignition system the best in the world. After all, if ignition "A" puts out more voltage than ignition "B", the one you would want is "A", right? Sorry, but that isn't necessarily so. Ignition "A" may put out more voltage, but is it more mechanically dependable than ignition "B"? Did you know that 90% of ignition failures are mechanical, and not electrical? Blame burnt or dirty ignition points, defective condenser/capacitor, defective switch(es), broken or chaffed wires, loose screws or connectors, slipped timing, worn hinge/pivot pin hole in ignition points, etc. Apply lubricating grease on the hinge/pivot pin before installing ignition points so the hole will last longer. When it's dry, it'll wear prematurely, effecting ignition timing, resulting in loss of engine power. By the way - whenever a condenser/capacitor becomes defective or gets weak, the engine may idle well, but hesitate to rev up, or if it did rev up, it may run very erratic. Click or tap here to hear what an engine with a defective condenser/capacitor sounds like. For the record, "condenser" is an age old term, and "capacitor" is a newer term for the same device. Ignition capacitors are still commonly called condensers. NOTE: The condenser body must be securely fastened to the engine/chassis ground for the engine to run smooth. If the condenser is loose in its bracket, the bracket can be squeezed slightly with large pliers to be made oblong or egg-shaped, and then the condenser will remain tight inside it. But if an engine idles well, but runs erratically above idle, like it hits and misses, pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs a new condenser/capacitor. And always install a condenser/capacitor with the wire or terminal facing down so rain water and/or when washing off engine, water will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it. Which will allow the engine to idle well, but run erratically when revved up. Click or tap here to hear what an engine with a faulty condenser/capacitor sounds like.
The importance of extremely high secondary voltage for more performance have been somewhat overplayed. An ignition system, regardless of type, produce only enough voltage necessary to jump the spark plug gap and ignite the air/fuel mixture. In perfect condition, a good spark plug wire and spark plug with a gap of .035" can't handle much more than 32,000 volts. If an ignition could produce more than that, then the extra voltage would escape through a leaking spark plug wire, a small crack in the ignition coil tower, etc. Besides, an average engine simply just doesn't need that much voltage. In most cases, an average engine simply don't need a high-output/performance (40,000 volt) ignition coil. If a plug require only 10,000 volts to jump its gap, then a "Super Coil" that's advertised to produce 40,000 volts will produce just 10,000 volts for that same plug under the same conditions. An ignition coil advertised to produce 40,000 volts may have the potential to do it, but unless everything is in excellent condition, only a fraction of that voltage would reach the spark plug.
As a spark plug's electrodes wear, its gap increases, so more voltage is required from the ignition coil before the spark is able to jump across the gap. If uncorrected, the gap eventually increases to the point where the plug requires more voltage than the coil can produce. However, a high-output/performance ignition coil would probably be able to fire the worn plug. Did you know that most stock ignition coils will produce enough voltage to jump a gap of up to 3/4 of an inch? Of course, no spark plug electrode will ever wear that wide. Therefore, the use of a high-output/performance ignition coil really isn't necessary, except in extreme high compression, alcohol-burning engines.
What Exactly is Coil Saturation? (Added 4/6/17)
Basically speaking, full coil saturation is when the ignition points and condenser (or two condensers) or electronic ignition control module/unit (ICU) can deliver more voltage to the coil so it will produce a stronger spark. While electricity itself moves extremely fast, it takes time for the changing magnetic fields in a coil to develop the full potential current and voltage. In other words, electricity moves much faster than magnetism. This is a way of saying that the induced voltage (stepped up voltage) does not develop instantaneously. To keep things simple, think of the coil as an energy storage device that can be "charged up" and "discharged" in a manner similar to a battery. It takes time for the magnetic field of the secondary windings in the coil to "charge" at full RPM, a condition that is called coil saturation. Similarly, it takes time for the coil to discharge some quantity of its electrical energy as it fires a spark plug. It takes more voltage from a condenser/capacitor or virtually any electronic ignition control unit (ICU) through the primary windings within the coil to make the magnetic field stronger to produce more voltage for the secondary windings to fire the spark plug(s) at higher RPM. This allows an engine to rev up at higher RPM. When maximum current flow is present in a winding, a maximum magnetic field is present and the coil winding is considered saturated. Saturation of the primary windings only occurs if the ignition primary switching device provides a ground path long enough to allow maximum current flow (5.5 amps maximum). If a low capacity condenser/capacitor or standard ICU is used, insufficient amount of magnetic field will be induced in the secondary winds, and the engine may idle well, but as it revs up, due to the higher compression [as the throttle plate is opened more], the (weak) spark at the spark plug's tip literally gets "blown out", and the engine fails to rev up. Due to coil saturation, certain coils require two medium capacity [Kohler] ignition condensers/capacitors, or one high capacity/performance condenser/capacitor to absorb the full saturation (voltage) of the primary windings within the coil. Go here for more information: Saturation (magnetic). [Return to previous paragraph, section or website]
In most cases, if an engine is kept in perfect tune, the factory stock ignition system provides more than enough voltage for the average garden pulling tractor. Most conventional stock ignitions are designed to provide a strong spark up to a relatively low engine speed. With Kohler engines running in modified form, they will get up as high as 9,000 RPM. But at high RPM or wide open throttle with the ignition points system, the points open and close so quickly that the coil's primary winding has less time to absorb voltage. This means the condenser/capacitor doesn't have enough time to rebuild the capacitance discharge. As a result, with the stock system, secondary voltage to the plug decreases and the engine won't run to full speed (wide open throttle) or it may sputter just when victory is in sight. However, for most garden pulling tractors, a stock ignition system that's in good condition will provide plenty of spark. NOTE: The condenser body must be securely fastened to the engine/chassis ground for the engine to run smooth. If the condenser is loose in its bracket, the bracket can be squeezed slightly with large pliers to be made oblong or egg-shaped, and then the condenser will remain tight inside it. But if an engine idles well, but runs erratically above idle, like it hits and misses, pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs a new condenser/capacitor. And always install a condenser/capacitor with the wire or terminal facing down so rain water and/or when washing off engine, water will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it. Which will allow the engine to idle well, but run erratically when revved up. Click or tap here to hear what an engine with a faulty condenser/capacitor sounds like.
There are 5 types of ignition systems that's used on all small gas engines, rather if it's a 2- or 4-cycle engine:
By the way - for a pulling tractor that has engine-mounted starter motor but no charging system, it's best to use a quality-made automotive battery. Not only because an automotive battery holds a charge longer to crank even the highest compression engine after several pulls, they can provide plenty of power to a battery-powered ignition system for a stronger spark for better engine performance.
Information about Ignition Coils -
Some ignition
coils have an internal resistor, while others rely on an external ballast
resistor (normally white ceramic block 3 to 4 inches long) or a resistor
wire (in the wiring circuit) to limit the current flowing through the primary
windings within the coil from the 12-volt power source. Various
standard-output/stock ignition coils and most high-output/performance ignition
coils require a minimum 1.5 ohm ballast resistor
(originally came on all 1955-57 General Motors vehicles, all 1953-85 Chrysler,
Plymouth and Dodge vehicles, various 1956-75 Ford vehicles, including various
makes and models of other older vehicles) or a GM or Ford full-length ignition
resistor wire when used with a ignition points and condenser/capacitor ignition
system to prevent excessive burning of the ignition points contacts. The
1.4± ohm voltage-reducing wire came on all 1958-74 GM vehicles and various
1969-91 Ford vehicles, and connects between the ignition terminal on the
fuse block to the positive (+) coil terminal. A
ballast resistor or ignition resistor wire
is basically a voltage reducer that reduces 12 volts down to anywhere between
8 to 10-1/2 volts, depending on the load.
According to the extensive research I've done, the ohms primary resistance of the internal resistor in most commonly used ignition coils are as follows:
A ballast resistor may not be needed with many new coils because most of
them nowadays have an internal resistor. But with
crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic
ignition, a coil without an internal resistor, rather if it's a
standard-output/stock or high-output/performance coil, is required to produce
full volts to the spark plug. And using a resistor effects the voltage output
of the coil very little. It only prevents premature burning of the ignition
points contacts. The reason manufacturers don't install a resistor inside
some high-output/performance ignition coils is because these coils draw more
amps from the battery or charging system. This cause the resistor to operate
at a higher temperature, which could overheat and damage the windings within
the coil. If a high-output/performance ignition coil is preferred, when
purchasing one, be sure to ask the salesperson if it have an internal resistor
or if it requires an external resistor. This is important for the life of
the ignition points. The absence of the resistor will, without a doubt, increase
voltage to the spark plugs, and will likely reduce the life of the ignition
points in a mechanical ignition points ignition system.
The plastic lever that one half
of the ignition points contacts is fasten to could also melt or become deformed
due to the excessive heat from the high voltage going through the ignition
points in absence of a ballast resistor. This
especially happens when a
GM DIS (Distributorless Ignition System) coil or a 6 volt
coil is used in a 12 volt system without a 1.6 ohm ballast resistor connected
to reduce the voltage. And a high-output/performance ignition coil has no
effect whatsoever with crank-trigger and
flywheel-trigger electronic ignition when using a GM 4-pin HEI
(High
Energy Ignition) 4-pin, Chrysler (w/ballast resistor) or
Ford electronic ignition control module/unit (ICU).
But the Chrysler control module requires a ballast resistor to prevent from
burning up. Also, most stock coils produce more than enough voltage when
used with even the hottest high performance engines, especially with
crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic
ignition.
How to Test an Ignition Coil to Find if it's in Good Condition to Produce a Strong Spark -
First of all, the metal casing or the laminations on battery-ignition coils do not need to be connected to the engine or chassis ground (battery negative () post). Only the ground wire on magneto and solid state ignition coils must be grounded for it to work. Anyway, on a battery-ignition coil, the primary windings is connected from the positive terminal (battery positive (+) post) to the negative terminal engine/chassis ground (ignition points/condenser; battery negative () post). The primary windings is also connected through an internal resistor to the secondary windings and to the spark plug, which is grounded. This is how coils complete the circuit to make a spark. One way to test the primary windings in a coil to find if it's in good condition is with a digital multimeter (DMM, DVOM) set on the 200 ohms (d) reading. IMPORTANT - Make sure the battery is fully charged and the digital multimeter and the part to be tested are warmed to room temperature (72°F) for an accurate reading! The accuracy of testing a coil is more complicated when performed with an analog multimeter. But not all coils will test good this way! With certain coils, the secondary windings will show no resistance, which will be a false indication that it's a defective coil. Therefore, the best way to test a coil to find if it's in good condition to produce a strong spark is with three jumper wires (with alligator clips), a battery-ignition condenser and a fully charged 12 volt battery, preferably metal conductor spark plug wire and a known good spark plug. ignition points are not required and is irrelevant in performing this test. Connect the wires as follows, then observe for a spark:
Metal Core Conductor Spark Plug Wires VS Suppression/Carbon Core Spark Plug Wires, and Non-Resistor/Copper Core Spark Plugs VS Resistor-Type Spark Plugs - (Added 2/26/20)
When testing the resistance of a metal core conductor spark plug wire versus a suppression/carbon core spark plug wire with an ohm meter, the meter will show no resistance with the metal core conductor wire, but it will show about half (40%-50%) of resistance with a suppression/carbon core wire. It takes about 10,000-12,000 volts to fire the average spark plug in an engine when under a heavy load at wide open throttle. Therefore, most high-output/performance ignition coils that produce a minimum of 30,000 volts, like the ones used in most automobiles, are able to fire a [quality made] suppression/carbon core spark plug wire and a resistor-type spark plug with no problem, because only about half the voltage from the coil goes through the wire and to the plug. But if a [quality made] suppression/carbon core spark plug wire and a resistor-type spark plug is used with a standard output ignition coil that produce 15,000-20,000 volts, like the ones used on most small engines and early automobiles with point ignition, it may not be able to successfully fire the plug under full compression (wide open throttle), and the engine may misfire. This is why ALL magneto/solid state small engine ignition coils and early automobiles with point ignition use metal core spark plug wires and a coil-to-distributor wire, and Kohler uses metal core conductor spark plug wire(s) with a compact- or standard-size ignition coil. If a metal core conductor spark plug wire and non-resistor/copper core spark plug is used with a high-output/performance ignition coil, such as the popular Bosch blue coil or a high-output/performance coil, the coil will only produce 10,000-12,000 to fire the plug. It will NEVER produce the maximum voltage it was designed for through the metal core wire and copper core plug. even when the engine is under a heavy load at wide open throttle. Only most factory automotive engines since 1974 with electronic ignition use a high-output coil, suppression/carbon core spark plug wires and resistor-type spark plugs. The reason suppression/carbon core spark plug wires and resistor-type spark plugs are used is because these eliminate high frequency radio-air-waves, which cause static (rapid tick-tick-tick sound) on most in-car radios and TVs with an antenna when you drive by a house. Single- or twin-cylinder small engines with only one or two metal core spark plug wires don't produce enough radio-air-waves to cause static on most radios and TVs. When used often, it's a well-known fact that most suppression/carbon core spark plug wires deteriorate or "break down" overtime. They lose their ability to maintain maximum voltage to the spark plug(s), even when used with a high-output/performance coil. But a metal core conductor spark plug wire will never lose voltage. It will last indefinitely. Many competition pullers that use a [fancy looking, brightly-colored] suppression/carbon core spark plug wire really believe they're going to go further down the track, when actually they're just defeating the purpose.
Self-energizing small engine magneto ignition
coils and battery-powered coils with either points and condenser or electronic
ignition must be used with a metal core conductor spark plug wire and a
non-resistor/copper core spark plug. Most automobiles with electronic ignition
have
suppression/carbon core spark plug wires. However, if a
suppression/carbon core spark plug wire and/or a resistor type spark plug
is used with a magneto or battery-powered ignition coil, the coil may operate
at a much higher than normal temperature (too hot to the touch), and either
the coil will fail or the engine will idle well, but hesitate to rev up at
high RPM due to he high resistance in the suppression/carbon core spark plug
wire and/or a resistor type spark plug. And avoid using a
suppression/carbon core spark plug wire with an electronic
ignition system on a small engine! The reason being is if the suppression/carbon
core spark plug wire becomes extremely weak and deteriorated with very high
resistance, this can cause the ignition coil and possibly the electronic
ignition control module to burn up.
How to Test the Strength of an Ignition Coil - (Updated 12/1/17) nitrogen
First of all, I think the
inline ignition spark plug tester that connects between
the spark plug and spark plug wire should not be used to test for spark!
(Personally, I think this is the most ridiculous spark tester I have ever
seen.) The reason being is if the spark plug itself is defective, the
inline ignition spark plug tester will show a false indication
that the entire ignition system is malfunctioning. And a good spark plug
will show only if the ignition system is working or not. It will not show
the strength of the ignition system or ignition coil. Therefore, a simple
and accurate way to test for spark (and/or the condition of the spark plug)
is to remove the spark plug, reattach the spark plug wire on the spark plug,
place the spark plug on a bare metal part of the engine or chassis so it'll
make good contact, then crank the engine and at the same time, observe for
spark at the spark plug's tip. (May have to perform this test in the shade
because it may be hard to see the spark in bright sunlight.) An ignition
system in good condition is supposed to produce a snappy-sounding strong
blue spark. (FYI - The blue color
is made by burning of nitrogen and oxygen in the atmosphere when they are
energized, and the snapping sound is breaking of the sound barrier resulting
in a very tiny
sonic boom released from the rapid burning and explosion
of the nitrogen and oxygen.) If the spark is visibly white or
red in color, either the spark plug is
fouled (from excessive raw fuel or oil burning) or has deteriorated (from
excessive use), the ignition points contacts are burnt or dirty,
suppression/carbon core spark plug wire has deteriorated (if used), or the
ignition coil may be weak and needs replacing.
To
test the strength of the ignition system, it's best use either a
fixed ignition spark tester or an adjustable ignition strength
tester, like the ones pictured to the right. These connect between
the spark plug wire and engine/chassis ground. The fixed ignition spark tester
works great for self-energizing magneto and solid state electronic, and
battery-powered ignition systems with a standard-output/stock coil to see
if the ignition system is adequate to make a
strong spark, but the adjustable ignition
strength tester can be used to test and measure the voltage output of the
ignition coil. The spark of a typical self-energizing magneto or solid state
electronic ignition system in excellent condition will jump a gap of
approximately 5/8" (10,000-12,000 volts), and the spark of a typical
battery-powered ignition points/condenser,
crank-trigger or flywheel-trigger electronic
ignition systems with a standard-output/stock coil in excellent condition
will jump a gap of approximately 3/4" (20,000 volts), but the spark of a
typical battery-powered ignition points/condenser,
crank-trigger or flywheel-trigger electronic
ignition systems with a high-output/performance coil in excellent condition
will jump a gap of approximately 1-1/4" (30,000-40,000 volts). FYI - It takes
1,000,000 volts to jump a gap of 30 feet.
Engines with a ignition points and condenser/capacitor magneto ignition system can be cranked over slowly to produce a spark. But most engines with a solid state electronic ignition (B&S's Magnetron™) must be cranked over quickly to produce a spark. However, on engines with battery ignition, there's really no need to crank the engine to check for spark. What can be done is momentarily and lightly connect the ignition points contacts with a small metal object, such as the tip of a screwdriver.
FYI - If the spark plug's tip is black and/or has wet gas on it, and if the carburetor has been thoroughly cleaned (multiple times), but you think the problem is still in the carburetor, well, the carburetor is probably working fine because the engine is obviously getting plenty of fuel. As an older, experienced mechanic once said: "Sometimes carburetor problems are electrical." Meaning a faulty/weak ignition system. There is also another old saying: "Sometimes ignition problems are mechanical." Meaning a loose or poor wiring connection, or a faulty ignition switch. [Return to previous paragraph, section or website]
No Spark Situation on a Small Engine -
Self-Energizing Magneto Ignition with Points and Condenser/Capacitor -
Self-Energizing Solid State Electronic Ignition -
Battery-Powered Ignition with Points and Condenser/Capacitor -
Weak or No Spark Situation on a V-Twin Small Engine (Briggs & Stratton Vanguard, Generac, Honda, Kawasaki, Kohler Command, etc.) - (Added 10/25/17)
If there's a strong spark at the spark plug(s) tip (snappy blue color spark), and the engine will not start, then need to rule out all possibilities first. So first of all, it's best to check for a sheared flywheel key. Because the last person who replaced the flywheel may not have cleaned the flywheel and crankshaft tapers, which could cause the flywheel to slip on the crankshaft. This will make the ignition out of time with the engine. But if the flywheel key is in good condition, try disconnecting the kill wires from the ignition coils and see if the coils produce a spark. Of the coils connects to a module, it could be bad. Or maybe something is grounding out the ignition kill wire(s). If there's still a weak or no spark, then the ignition coils are obviously bad. The magnet in the flywheel rarely get weak. So there's really no need to worry about it. And if replacement OEM coils or ignition parts are no longer available, the only thing to do is convert the engine to crank-trigger or flywheel-trigger electronic ignition. The magnet in the flywheel can be used to energize a couple of hall effect proximity sensors. An adapter bracket will need to be fabricated to mount the proximity sensors in place of each coil. And two ignition coils will need to be used, one for each cylinder. And chances are, the engine has an automatic compression release, so the ignition timing can be set at 16º± BTDC (depending on the engine). A degree wheel, dial indicator and piston stop will need to be used to indicate exactly where the spark needs to occur so the timing can be set precisely for each piston.
Typical Battery Ignition Points and Condenser/Capacitor Ignition System for a Garden Tractor
If the ignition coil has an internal resistor, connect the wires as shown
below...
But if the coil require an external resistor
(ballast resistor), connect the wires as shown
below...
[Return to previous paragraph, section or website]
All
conventional point-ignition systems that's installed on garden tractor and
automotive engines utilizes a standard-output/stock [20,000 volt] coil. And
all automotive (distributor) electronic ignition systems utilize a
high-output/performance (40,000 volt) coil. The obvious and visual differences
in these coils is by the height of the center tower. The standard-output/stock
coil has a shorter center tower. In most cases, it's not capable of producing
enough volts to short out (jump) to the small terminals. And all
high-output/performance coils have a taller tower, to keep the spark from
shorting or jumping to the small terminals. Most standard-output/stock battery
ignition coils that's designed for a small engine, such as Kohler, Tecumseh,
etc., have a 3.0, 4.0 or 5.0 ohm internal primary resistor. And most
standard-output/stock coils that's designed for a ignition
points/distributor-type ignition system (automotive, farm tractor, etc.)
have a 1.5 ohm internal primary resistor. And most high-output/performance
coils for electronic/distributor-type ignition systems or Distributorless
Ignition System (DIS) have a 0.4 ohm internal primary resistor. The size
of the resistor allows for full coil saturation
so the ignition points will last longer and so the engine will rev up to
full speed (wide open throttle), and if it's for
crank-trigger or flywheel-trigger electronic
ignition, to prevent from burning up the control module.
Virtually all canister coils look the same
on the outside. The only sure way to tell what the ohms resistance for virtually
any ignition coil is with a multimeter set on the ohms
(d) resistance. But some coils are marked with
printing on the casing to indicate their ohms resistance, and sometimes the
wording may not be accurate, or it may read: "Use With External Resistor".
But it does not say the size ohms resistance of the external/ballast resistor
that should be used. So when replacing a coil or when purchasing a new coil
for any particular engine or ignition system, ALWAYS test the value of the
ohms resistance to be 100% certain that the coil will be suitable for the
ignition system it is designed for. Being virtually all ignition
coils (and ballast resistors) look alike and there's no indication on them
of their ohms resistance, before purchasing a new coil (or ballast resistor),
take a digital multimeter in the small engine shop, auto parts store,
farm & home store, etc. with you and test the item for
its ohms resistance just to make sure you get what you pay for.
Click or tap here to learn how to test
the ohms resistance in a coil.
If you've ever experienced the metal strap on an ignition coil
of breaking due to normal engine vibration (especially at higher RPM or
wide
open throttle) and because the metal itself is too thin, then what you
need to do is either fabricate a strap made of thicker metal, or install
two coil straps as shown in the picture to the right, and be sure to fasten
the straps securely. This will double the life of the clamps and lessen the
chances of either strap of ever breaking again.
Ever had a good run going down
the track and all of a sudden the engine dies, and you found the cause was
the [failed] ignition coil? Well, chances are, it wasn't designed for use
on a garden pulling tractor, especially when the engine is ran at
wide
open throttle. Even new oil-filled canister coils have been known to
fail in a very short time on a garden pulling tractor. The reason some coils
fail is due to normal single cylinder engine vibration running at high RPM
or wide
open throttle. The tiny wires (or windings) inside the coil will vibrate
and break over time. Even the insulation on the windings themselves will
"rub" or scrape against the other internal wires, resulting in a short, and
eventual coil failure. That's why it's best to use an epoxy filled
or epoxy encapsulated coil that can withstand high engine vibrations
to prevent the windings from vibrating, shorting out and/or breaking. The
epoxy holds the wires solid, resulting in no vibration of the windings
whatsoever. Most epoxy coils produce up to 45,000 volts, too. So for the
little difference in price, accept no substitutes! Epoxy coils are most reliable
for use on a garden pulling tractor. To prevent prematurely burning the ignition
points, it's best to check the coil with a
digital multimeter to determine if it require an external
resistor or not.
A coil with a 1.0 ohm internal primary resistor works great in a 6 volt ignition system to prevent premature burning of the ignition points contacts. A coil with a 1.5 ohm internal primary resistor connected to a 1.4 ohm ballast resistor or resistor wire works great with a distributor/point ignition system to prevent premature burning of the ignition points contacts. And a coil with a 3.0+ ohm internal primary resistor works great for a small engine with ignition points & condenser to prevent premature burning of the ignition points contacts. And coil with a 0.4 ohm internal primary resistor works great with self-energizing solid state electronic, or crank-trigger or flywheel-trigger electronic ignition systems, that's mentioned further down in this website.
Any ignition coil with a 1.0 ohm internal resistor or a GM DIS (Distributorless Ignition System) coil can be safely used in a 6 volt ignition system without a ballast resistor or ignition resistor wire. But to use a 6 volt coil in a 12 volt ignition system, simply use a minimum 1.2 ohm ballast resistor in series between the power supply and positive (+) coil terminal to reduce the voltage to the coil and current through the ignition points. The coil should produce a strong spark, operate cool to the touch and last longer. The ignition points should last a long time, too. To check if a coil is rather for 6 volts (and can be used in a 12 volt ignition system with a ballast resistor) or for 12 volts, perform the test below Ê.
A battery ignition coil with a primary resistance of 0.6 ohms is most definitely a high energy coil with a voltage output of about 30,000-45,000 volts and the primaries must be switched electronically as that coil will draw around 20 amps. Coils that are around 2.5 to 3.0 ohms are internally ballasted and don't need an external ballast resistor, and have medium voltage output of about 15-35,000 volts. Coils between 4 and 6 ohms are also internally ballasted and do not require a ballast resistor, and have low voltage output of about 12,000-20,000 volts.
Primary resistance is a function of impedance and the lower it is, the faster the rise and fall time of the primary magnetic field and the greater its strength, causing a much higher induced voltage at the secondary winding. ignition points can only handle about 3 amps continuously and thereby put a limit on the coil's output by restricting the primary resistance to 4 or 5 ohms. A ballast resistor is a way of allowing the use of a much lower impedance coil (1.5 ohm) without letting the primary current get too high and burning the ignition points contacts. This almost doubles the coil's output, which, in turn allows for wider plug gaps, so that it can ignite much richer fuel mixtures with the more energetic spark.
Ballast and ignition resistors with a higher ohms value are known as "Point Savers." The higher the ohms primary resistance an ignition resistor has, being if it's a ballast resistor and/or a resistor inside an ignition coil, the longer the ignition points contacts will last (as long as the ignition points/contacts are installed clean, and doesn't become contaminated with dust, oil or water). A 12 volt ignition coil with a 3.0 ohm internal primary resistor connected to a 1.6 ohm ballast resistor (highest value ballast resistor available) when used in a ignition points ignition system will allow the ignition points contacts to possibly last the life of the engine. And just one medium capacity [Kohler] condenser/capacitor can be used. Install the 1.6 ohm ballast resistor between the coil positive (+) terminal and wire coming from the ignition switch to the coil. This will allow the ignition points to possibly last the life of the engine. Because the increased resistance allows a very low current (flow of electricity) pass through the ignition points contacts, resulting in much less electrical arcing of the contacts. This will drastically reduce the premature burning away of the platinum coating on the ignition points contacts. Also, a suppression/carbon core spark plug wire and resistor type spark plug shouldn't be used in this system due to overheating of the ignition coil. Therefore, it's best that a metal core conductor spark plug wire and non-resistor/copper core spark plug be used. The ignition system will still provide a strong spark because an average small engine requires only a fraction of voltage from the coil. And this is best used with general lawn & garden, snow removal, etc. equipment engines, and not for competition pulling.
All automotive
high-output/performance or OEM electronic ignition coils, including the popular
12 volt Bosch blue coil with an internal resistor,
have more secondary wire windings than in a standard-output/stock coil. This
is how they produce more voltage to create a stronger spark. When used with
a ignition points and condenser/capacitor ignition system, the energy of
the primary windings within the coil is transferred in the condenser/capacitor.
And in most cases,
one medium capacity condenser/capacitor isn't capable of handling
the excessive amount of electricity from the primary windings to fully energize
the secondary windings within the coil, thus allowing the coil to produce
a low voltage or weak spark at any RPM, which will cause the engine to idle
poorly and run poorly. Sometimes when using a high-output/performance ignition
coil with one medium capacity (Kohler) condenser/capacitor, black smoke will
blow out the exhaust at idle and flames will shoot out the exhaust at high
RPM or
wide
open throttle.
For a high-output/performance
ignition system operate at 100% efficiency and produce more voltage at any
RPM, it's best to use two medium capacity ignition condensers/capacitors
or one high capacity/performance condenser/capacitor. Using either two standard
capacity (Kohler) condensers/capacitors or one high capacity/performance
condenser/capacitor will allow the engine to idle better, run smoother, and
produce more power at high RPM or at
wide
open throttle. When using 2 condensers, connect the wire of each condenser
to the negative terminal on the coil and ground the bodies of the condensers.
If an engine is built right, the ignition timing is set correct, and if the
carburetor is adjusted correctly, with two medium capacity (Kohler)
condensers/capacitors or one high capacity/performance condenser/capacitor,
the exhaust (appearance) should be cleaner at idle, and with no flames at
high RPM or
wide
open throttle. A stock or standard-output/stock coil will not produce
more voltage than what it is designed for with two medium capacity (Kohler)
condensers/capacitors or one high capacity/performance condenser/capacitor.
But it will produce 100% voltage with two medium capacity (Kohler)
condensers/capacitors or one high capacity/performance condenser/capacitor.
And with crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger
electronic ignition, if an electronic ignition control module/unit (ICU)
with a high capacity transistor is used, a standard-output/stock or
high-output/performance coil will produce 100% voltage regardless. And if
you're wondering, any type of ignition points can be used with any type of
coil and condenser/capacitor.
NOTE: The condenser body must be securely fastened to the engine/chassis ground for the engine to run smooth. If the condenser is loose in its bracket, the bracket can be squeezed slightly with large pliers to be made oblong or egg-shaped, and then the condenser will remain tight inside it. But if an engine idles well, but runs erratically above idle, like it hits and misses, pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs a new condenser/capacitor. And always install a condenser/capacitor with the wire or terminal facing down so rain water and/or when washing off engine, water will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it. Which will allow the engine to idle well, but run erratically when revved up. Click or tap here to hear what an engine with a faulty condenser/capacitor sounds like.
When choosing a high-output/performance ignition coil, such as a Chrysler electronic ignition canister coil, if it reads on the casing: "use with electronic ignition" (or something like this), all this means is if the coil is used with full 12 volts, and with ignition points and [one standard capacity] condenser/capacitor, the ignition points contacts will not last long and burn up prematurely due to the higher voltage going through them. To use the coil, simply install a [1.6 ohm resistance] ballast resistor before the coil to decrease the voltage going through the coil and the ignition points, and the ignition points should last longer. And definitely use two medium capacity ignition condensers/capacitors or one high capacity/performance condenser/capacitor so the coil will produce more voltage. (When using 2 condensers, connect the wire of each condenser to the negative terminal on the coil and ground the bodies of the condensers.) NOTE: The condenser body must be securely fastened to the engine/chassis ground for the engine to run smooth. If the condenser is loose in its bracket, the bracket can be squeezed slightly with large pliers to be made oblong or egg-shaped, and then the condenser will remain tight inside it. But if an engine idles well, but runs erratically above idle, like it hits and misses, pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs a new condenser/capacitor. And always install a condenser/capacitor with the wire or terminal facing down so rain water and/or when washing off engine, water will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it. Which will allow the engine to idle well, but run erratically when revved up. Click or tap here to hear what an engine with a faulty condenser/capacitor sounds like.
Causes of Engine "Popping" or Backfire -
Causes of Ignition Coil Failures -
Most battery-powered ignition coils will last the life of an engine. But if a quality coil keeps going bad for no apparent reason, then there are three things that will cause this. They are...
Why Do Some Magneto Ignition Coils To Go Bad?
I think the Briggs & Stratton, Kohler KT-series and Magnum
twin cylinder opposed flathead twin cylinder engines are the best that was
made, but their ignition coil has its shortcomings. The real problem with
these engines is they use one (small) ignition coil to fire two spark plugs,
one per cylinder, and after several years of use, sometimes the coil will
fail to produce a spark, rather if the engine has ignition points and
condenser/capacitor, Magnetron™ or a solid state electronic module.
Unfortunately, some ignition coils don't last the life of the engine. As
the spark plug's electrode and/or the resistor in a resistor type spark plug
deteriorates, the secondary windings within the coil is forced to produce
more voltage to fire the plug at higher RPMs. Eventually, the increase in
voltage will overheat and eventually burn up the secondary windings within
the coil, causing coil failure. This is why quality-made non-resistor/copper
core spark plugs should always be used with a small or magneto ignition coil.
The coil burns out because one coil must fire two spark plugs at one time
with the plug gaps set at .030" each (factory recommended setting). With
these size gaps, this is the same as firing one spark plug with a gap of
.060"! Most magneto coils are not designed to produce this much voltage and
may not last too long when they do. The coil is forced to produce more voltage
than is necessary to fire both plugs and this causes the secondary windings
within the coil to overheat and eventually burn out. And as the spark plugs
deteriorate with age, the coil is forced to produce even more voltage to
make a spark through the weak plugs. So to lessen the chance of a good coil
going bad (again),
set the spark
plug gaps at .015" each. The .015" gaps will simulate having just one spark
plug with a .030" gap, and the coil will operate much cooler and should last
a lot longer. Dyno tests proved that the engine will still start quickly,
idle smoothly, rev up quickly to full RPM, run the same and produce just
as much power at higher RPM as it did with the .030" spark plug gaps. And
be sure to set the ignition coil laminations to flywheel magnet air gap/clearance
at .010". The paper box a new coil comes in can be used as a gauge. It has
pretty much the same thickness as a business card or poster board.
The use of resistor type spark plugs shortens the life of most small engine self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition coil/modules. Therefore, it's best to use a high quality spark plug with a non-resistor/copper core gapped at .025" for single cylinder and V-twin engines, and .015" each for opposed twin cylinder engines to prevent overheating of secondary windings within the coil and possibly causing premature coil failure. Set the laminations to the flywheel magnet clearance (air gap) at .010". And the easiest and most accurate way to set the air gap is to use a business card, poster board, or part of the box the new coil came in. These measure about .010" thickness. Place a strip of the paper or box between the coil's laminations and magnet in the flywheel and allow the magnet to pull the laminations to it, then tighten the coil mounting screws securely. Also, when a coil goes bad, save the spark plug wire(s) off the defective coil. These have a stranded metal core conductor wire, and with a coil (distributor) terminal and coil tower boot installed, it/they can be used on an engine with a magneto, battery-powered or custom-made crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition system.
Or instead of doing the above È, if an older Briggs & Stratton twin cylinder flathead engine has ignition points, it can be easily converted to the more reliable and higher output battery ignition (for a stronger spark). The B&S ignition points can be still used, but two automotive canister-type ignition coils or a battery ignition coil with dual plug terminals (as described above È) with spark plug wires, and two battery ignition condensers/capacitors will need to be used. The spark plug gaps can be set at .035", and the ignition timing can be set by the width of the ignition points gap (.020") or with an automotive strobe timing light after the flywheel is degreed in with timing marks. The timing light connects to the battery and spark plug wire.
The
E3 Spark Plug -
When using E3 spark plugs, for a stronger spark, use the non-resistor/copper core E3 spark plug(s), index it/them with the open gap facing the center of the piston, and use a high capacity/performance ignition condenser/capacitor with a high-output/performance ignition coil to produce a stronger spark for better engine performance.
How to Convert a Briggs & Stratton Engine to Battery-Powered Flywheel-Trigger Ignition -
For virtually any B&S engine
with a magnet embedded on the circumference of the flywheel, a hall effect
(detects a magnet) proximity sensor can be used in place of the OEM ignition
coil to trigger the ignition. Being a non-magnetic pickup coil will generate
power as it passes the full width of the North and South poles of the magnet,
it will produce a double spark, which may effect how the engine runs. The
hall effect proximity sensor on the other hand will work better because it's
activated just off the South pole of the magnet, producing a single spark.
And a sturdy bracket will need to be fabricated to mount the sensor. The
sensor will fire both cylinders at the same time (wasted spark). A Chrysler
or Ford ignition control module will need to be used with a single ignition
coil with dual wires. The timing will need to be set just as the sensor comes
within the leading edge of the South pole of the magnet, so the engine will
produce full power.
And if you're wondering if surface rust on flywheel magnets reduces magnetism and/or strength of the spark on the armature of a magneto ignition coil, well, I know for a proven fact that surface rust does not affect magnetism or strength of the spark whatsoever. This is the same as saying that pure, undiluted automotive antifreeze coolant will freeze solid in sub-zero freezing weather. It will NOT freeze! And despite of what you've probably heard, putting sugar in the gas tank will NOT ruin the engine! Read about it here: snopes.com: Sugar in the Gas Tank. Don't just theorize about such things, believe in myths, rumors or what some [delusional] people/mechanics/technicians tell you. Perform a scientific test to prove to yourself and debunk the myths. I always do.
And for anyone who's wondering, an standard-output/stock automotive battery ignition condenser/capacitor with an automotive canister ignition coil will work on any one- or two-cylinder air-cooled engine that use the battery ignition system. But when using two automotive ignition coils on a twin- or two-cylinder engine with conventional ignition points, be sure to use two condensers/capacitors as well, one for each coil, only if the coil(s) requires one. Otherwise, the engine will idle, but may not rev up. And there's a very little difference between the Kohler battery ignition condenser/capacitor and an automotive [GM, Ford or Chrysler] ignition [ignition points] condenser/capacitor. So either can be used on a small engine.
First of all, avoid using low
cost, inferior quality or "cheapie" spark plugs! Also, since I began repairing
small engines in 1982, I've heard great things about NGK spark plugs and
how many people brag about them, but in my personal experiences, I found
that they are nothing but junk! Personally, before installing the
[correct type of] NGK spark plug in an engine, to remove all doubts about
the strength of the ignition system, I would check the [NGK] spark plug to
verify if it has a snappy-sounding strong
blue spark, to which it had. Then after installing the plug, to
my surprise, it would foul-out (develop a weak spark) when priming the carburetor
with gas and cranking the engine to get it started! And if an engine did
start, it would only run for a few seconds before another [NGK] plug became
fouled. I've had this happen with every NGK spark plug! NGK spark
plugs have also been known to cause a good ignition coil to fail prematurely.
I hate to say this about a product that many claim to be superior, but it's
the honest truth. They say that seeing is believing, and I believe this product
to be inferior. If anyone has good luck or results using NGK spark plugs,
then perhaps they should purchase a winning lottery ticket, too.
And it's best to use new AC Delco, Autolite
or Champion copper core spark plugs so the ignition coil will last longer.
FYI - The blue color is made by burning of nitrogen and oxygen in the
atmosphere when they are energized, and the snapping sound is breaking of
the sound barrier resulting in a very tiny
sonic boom released from the rapid burning and explosion
of the nitrogen and oxygen.
I've found that Autolite and Champion non-resistor/copper core type spark plugs are the best quality. These do not foul-out and they should last a long time. Also, it'll be a good idea to avoid using resistor type spark plugs in a small engine with self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition. Resistor plugs will cause a good magneto or solid state electronic ignition coil/module to go bad prematurely because they force the secondary windings within the coil to produce higher voltage to fire the plug, eventually causing the windings to burn out. And unlike gasoline, alcohol fuels (ethanol and methanol) will rarely foul spark plugs. And depending on which gas is burned in a competition pulling engine, use only the type of spark plug that's recommended by the manufacturer of the engine, even if it's a high performance engine. If the wrong or a different type of plug is used, the engine will lose power, run erratically or may not start.
spark plug wires and Spark Plug Boots - (Updated 10/16/16)
Virtually all copper or metal
core conductor spark plug wires rarely lose resistance, resulting in a weak
spark. The only time they need replacing is when damaged beyond use. A spark
plug wire can be tested with an analog multimeter set on X1K ohms
(d) resistance or a digital multimeter set
on 2000K ohms (d) resistance. Also, all ordinary
small engine spark plug wires have a stranded metal core conductor wire and
are considered high performance because they have zero ohms resistance. Any
spark plug wire, rather if it's a real-known brand name or aftermarket, should
always be tested for it's ohms resistance. The best way to determine if a
spark plug wire has a carbon- or metal core conductor wire (without stripping
the insulation away) is with a set on the 2000K ohms
(d) setting for a
digital multimeter or x1K setting for an
analog multimeter. Touch the multimeter leads together
to adjust for (analog) or take note of (digital) the zero resistance. Now
connect the leads of the multimeter to the ends of the spark plug wire. If
the reading displays zero resistance, it's a
metal core conductor plug wire. But if it displays any
resistance at all, it's most likely a suppression/carbon core spark plug
wire.
Certain [plastic]
spark plug caps (boot/terminal) have a built-in resistor,
which will deliver about half the voltage to the spark plug, resulting in
poor engine performance, especially at high RPM. So for better engine
performance, try to avoid using a
resistor spark plug cap (boot/terminal).
Click or tap here to learn how to test the
ohms resistance of a spark plug wire or spark plug boot/terminal.
non-resistor/copper core spark plugs, such as the Autolite 216 and Champion 844 (H10C), and small engine spark plug wires, which have a metal conductor wire, are the best things to use for competition pulling. By using a non-resistor/copper core plug and metal core conductor wire, more voltage will reach the spark plug's tip, especially under high compression when the engine is running at wide open throttle, resulting in a much stronger spark. A stock, standard-output/stock ignition coil with a metal spark plug wire and a non-resistor/copper core spark plug will produce about the same voltage at the spark plug's tip as a high-output/performance coil with a suppression/carbon core spark plug wire and a resistor type spark plug.
On any ignition system, the coil produce is less voltage at idle or cruising speeds (in an automobile) when the throttle plate is partially open, and when the throttle plate is opened more or in the wide open throttle position to increase the engine's RPM, being the combustion chamber is more air (and fuel) to build up more compression, the coil is forced to produce more voltage to fire the spark(s). As a suppression/carbon core spark plug wire and/or resistor type spark plug gets weak (they deteriorate with use), the ignition coil is forced to produce even more voltage. Eventually, as the suppression/carbon core wire and/or resistor plug gets so weak, the coil can't produce enough voltage and an engine misfire occurs, or the engine will die out when revved up. This will happen even with a high-output/performance coil. It just takes longer for the high-output coil to reach maximum voltage as the suppression/carbon core spark plug wire and/or resistor type spark plug deteriorate to cause an engine misfire. The use of aged and deteriorated suppression/carbon core spark plug wire and/or an old resistor type spark plug will also cause a good coil to eventually fail because the secondary windings within the coil overheat and eventually burn up from producing excessive voltage to fire the plug.
If a spark plug wire has no markings rather if it's a suppression/carbon
or metal core conductor wire type, it can be tested with an
analog or
digital multimeter set on ohms
(d) resistance. Connect the leads of the meter
to the terminals of the spark plug wire, if it reads full scale, it's a metal
conductor wire type. But if the meter reads about halfway, it's
suppression/carbon core spark plug wire. The same test can be performed on
a questionable spark plug, with accurate results. And remember - spark plug
wires and spark plugs are like women, it's what's on the inside that matters.
And in my experience, it seems that it makes no difference of what type of spark plug works best for gas or methanol fuel. But a wider gap (.060") works better with methanol. And gas burns just fine with a standard gap of .035". Click here for Champion Spark Plug's Numbering System.
And the use of a "cold", "medium",
or "hot" heat range of a spark plug doesn't matter in a pulling engine with
a steel flywheel with no fins because these engines have no cooling system
to cool or extract the heat from the engine and spark plug. When there's
no cooling fins on a flywheel or with an electric fan not running to cool
the engine, nothing will cool the engine, except for a swift breeze on a
cool, windy day.
Did you know that installing two spark plugs per cylinder doesn't help to increase the power output of an engine whatsoever? Simply because one plug will be running hot (exhaust side) and the other will be cool (intake side). Engine power is generated from the heat source, because heat is how an engine produce power. When the spark plug in the cylinder head is located over the exhaust valve, this maintains the majority of the heat in the combustion chamber in one area. When heat is maintained in one particular area in any given combustion chamber, the increase in power will be much greater, especially at high RPM. Burning fuel within a combustion chamber will "find" or locate the main heat source. The fuel will burn more thoroughly, allowing the engine to produce more power at any RPM. If the plug is located in the center of the combustion chamber, the incoming fuel could splash against the plug's tip and cause the engine to misfire or run erratic at high speed, especially when burning methanol fuel. And the plug could easily become fouled when burning gas, especially when the engine is cold. So it's best to install just one spark plug positioned over the exhaust valve with the plug gap set at .060". Because a .060" gap will simulate having two spark plugs. Use of a high-output/performance ignition coil will help produce a stronger spark, too.
Index the Spark Plug(s) to Help Increase Engine Horsepower and Torque -
An indexing washer
is a special washer of a specific thickness. They are placed on the threads
of the spark plug(s) to position it with the open/exposed gap facing the
center of the piston when the plug is properly torqued in the head. When
the open or exposed gap faces the piston, this helps in a more thorough
combustion or burning of the fuel so the engine will produce up to 10% more
power and torque when using a tractor under extreme conditions, such as heavy
mowing, garden plowing, pushing/blowing snow, or for competition pulling.
Indexing washers come in various thicknesses, and one of a certain thickness
is used to
index the spark plug(s). The thin shims/washers for Kohler
balance gears can also be used as indexing washers for spark plug(s). To
know exactly where the open gap is when the spark plug is installed in the
head, use a black felt tip ink marker
(Sharpie,
Magic Marker,
Marks-A-Lot) to place a mark (line) on the porcelain in-line
with the open gap at the tip of spark plug as shown in the picture to the
right. And on flat seat spark plugs, leave the original compression washer
on the spark plug and add the indexing washer(s) as needed until the open
gap faces the piston.
Furthermore, when the spark plug in the cylinder head is located over the exhaust valve, this maintains the majority of the heat in the combustion chamber in one area, instead of being spread throughout the combustion chamber. Because when heat is maintained in one particular area in any given combustion chamber, the increase in power will be much greater, especially at high RPM. Burning fuel within a combustion chamber will seek out or "find" the main heat source. The fuel will burn more thoroughly, allowing the engine to produce more power at any RPM. If the plug is located in the center of the combustion chamber, the incoming fuel could splash against the plug's tip and cause the engine to misfire or run erratic at high speed, especially when burning methanol fuel. And the plug could easily become fouled when burning gas, especially when the engine is being choked or primed with fuel to start it when it's cold. [Return to previous paragraph, section or website]
Advertisement: (added 11/3/17)
If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed
in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501
W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO
(Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | ![]() ![]() |
![]() ![]()
|
Virtually all ceramic-body ballast resistors
do not have any indication or markings of its
ohms primary
resistance. Therefore, it will need to be tested to verify the resistance
for it to work correctly with the connected device. If it's used resistor,
inspect the ceramic portion for signs of overheating. An overheated (overloaded)
resistor will be dark or blackened. Such a resistor should not be used. And
most 12 volt ignition coils have either an 1.5 or 3.0 ohm internal primary
resistor. 6 volt coils have a 1.0 ohm internal primary resistor. All
battery-ignition coils have an internal resistor and some coils require an
additional external resistor for two reasons: 1: to provide a stronger spark
so a cold engine will start quicker (as the engine warms up, the resistor
gradually drops the voltage to around 9 volts to the ignition points contacts
so they will last longer, or to the electronic ignition control unit to keep
it from burning up); and 2: to protect the primary windings from current
spikes from the charging generator or alternator. Also, certain [plastic]
spark plug caps (boot/terminal)
have a built-in resistor, which will deliver about half the voltage to the
spark plug, resulting in poor engine performance, especially at high RPM.
So for better engine performance, try to avoid using a
resistor spark plug cap (boot/terminal). Anyway, the best
way to determine the value of the resistor is with a digital multimeter.
When in doubt of the ohms value in a coil, etc., it can be tested as follows:
Being virtually all ignition coils and ballast resistors look alike and there's no indication on them of their ohms resistance, before purchasing a new coil or ballast resistor, take a digital multimeter in the small engine shop, auto parts store, farm & home store, etc. with you and test the item for its ohms resistance to make sure you get what you pay for. [Return to previous paragraph, section or website]
Advertisement:
If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services
listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises
| 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia,
MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | ![]() ![]() |
|
FYI - I can install a custom-made crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition system and/or rewire your lawn & garden tractor, equipment or garden pulling tractor so all the electrical accessories will work and the engine will start quickly every time. I have the knowledge, skills, all the tools and parts necessary to perform a quality job. I've rewired many customer's lawn & garden tractor/equipment or garden pulling tractor with great results. If you're interested, my phone numbers, address and directions to my shop are above È. - Brian Miller | |
NOTE: All parts listed here are NEW, unless otherwise stated. I do not sell cheap junk! As a matter of fact, most OEM Kohler parts are made in China now. Kohler owns some of the factories in China that make the parts. And most aftermarket parts are also made by Kohler in China. Kohler just place the part(s) in a generic box and sell them for less money. So when purchasing a genuine OEM Kohler part that comes in a box with the Kohler name on it, you're really just paying more money for the name. And as far as some parts being no longer available - either the parts didn't sell well or the EPA is trying to phase out parts for the old cast iron block flathead engines because they produce more air pollution than the newer OHV engines. | |
Replace Old-Fashioned, Out-Dated and Troublesome Points
and Condenser in Virtually Any Magneto Ignition System with the Universal
Solid State Electronic Ignition Module!
Wiring Diagram and Installation Instructions for Universal Solid State Electronic Magneto Ignition Module are as follows:
|
|
NOTE: The alternative to using
either of the items below is to remove the ignition points and points pushrod,
and place the pushrod on a hard, flat surface, and use a hammer and sharp
flat cold chisel to lightly create knurled raised marks midway on the pushrod.
Then reinstall the pushrod in the engine block with the hammer. The knurling
will retain the pushrod in the hole.
Block-Off Plate to Cover Kohler Points Pushrod Hole. Use in Kohler
engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361,
KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582 when converting
from magneto to solid state ignition (above), Magnum solid state ignition,
or flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic
ignition (further down in this website). Made of 1/8" thickness aluminum
or steel. Apply RTV silicone sealant to prevent oil leak and use OEM ignition
points mounting screws to secure in place. A-1 Miller's part. $4.00
each, plus shipping & handling. An ingenious and innovative concept
by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind.
(But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.)
|
|
![]() ![]()
![]() ![]() ![]()
|
|
High Quality Adjustable Chevy (GM) Ignition Points with Stiff Spring for Quick Reaction at High Engine RPMs. Includes locking/jam nut. Loosen nut with a 5/16" wrench, set ignition timing with adjustment screw (and timing light), and tighten nut to prevent adjusting screw from vibrating out of adjustment due to high engine RPM. For use on Kohler competition pulling engines only. An original and ingenious idea by Brian Miller. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
![]() ![]()
![]() ![]()
|
|
Points Pushrod Seals. Each fits
Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331,
K341, K361, K482, K532 and K582 with a 3/16" diameter points pushrod. Each
prevents seepage of crankcase oil from contaminating points contacts. Please
choose to use one or the other below Ê,
no need to use both.
|
|
![]()
|
|
![]()
|
|
![]()
|
|
"Assemble It Yourself" Points-to-Coil Ignition Wire Kits.
Fits Kohler engines with battery-powered ignition, models K90/K91, K141,
K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series
II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582. Replace OEM wire with
frayed/cracked insulation and/or broken connector(s) to prevent a short circuit
and/or engine misfire. Each below requires use of crimp-type electrical pliers.
Assembled Points-to-Coil Ignition Wire Kits. Fits Kohler engines with battery-powered ignition, models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582. Replace OEM wire with frayed/cracked insulation and/or broken connector(s) to prevent a short circuit and/or engine misfire.
|
|
![]()
|
|
![]() ![]()
|
|
![]()
![]()
![]()
|
|
![]()
|
|
![]() ![]()
|
|
![]() ![]()
|
|
![]() ![]()
|
|
![]() ![]()
|
|
![]() ![]()
|
|
![]()
|
|
![]() ![]()
|
|
![]() ![]()
|
|
![]()
|
|
![]()
|
|
![]() |
|
NOTE: The use of resistor type spark plugs shortens the life of most small engine self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition coil/modules. Therefore, it's best to use a new high quality spark plug with a non-resistor/copper core gapped at .025" for single cylinder and V-twin engines, and .015" each for opposed twin cylinder engines to prevent overheating of secondary windings within the coil and possibly causing premature coil failure. Set the laminations to the flywheel magnet clearance (air gap) at .010". And the easiest and most accurate way to set the air gap is to use a business card, poster board, or part of the box the new coil came in. These measure about .010" thickness. Place a strip of the paper or box between the coil's laminations and magnet in the flywheel and allow the magnet to pull the laminations to it, then tighten the coil mounting screws securely. | |
Self-Energizing Solid State Electronic Ignition Coils
with molded-in Module. FYI - All self-energizing solid state electronic
ignition coils/modules require a self-grounding OFF-ON toggle/flip kill switch
to short circuit the primary windings in the coil to shut off the engine.
They do not need 12 volts of power because this will instantly burn up the
coil. And save the spark plug wire off the defective coil. It has a metal
conductor, and with a battery coil terminal and rubber boot installed, it
can be used in a battery-powered ignition system.
|
|
![]()
|
|
![]()
|
|
![]()
NOTE: The magneto coil wrapped with varnish-coated paper (Kohler part # 210293), and the ignition stator assembly and ring shown above È are Discontinued from Kohler. If you have an engine without these parts and you can't locate them from any source, your only option is to convert the engine to the battery-powered ignition system. A small motorcycle battery or a rechargeable 12 volt sealed lead acid (SLA) battery with a minimum 4AH (Amp Hour) rating will need to be required to power the ignition, and with no charging system, a portable battery charger will need to be used to keep the battery fully charged when the tractor is not in use so the ignition will produce a strong spark. Avoid using a high-output/performance coil because these draw more power from the battery. |
|
![]() ![]()
|
|
Ignition Coils below for
Kohler engine models K141, K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341 and K361, and
other various makes and models of small engines (Tecumseh, etc.) with a 12
volt ignition ignition system. Each can be used with points and condenser
or A-1 Miller's custom crank-trigger and
flywheel-trigger electronic ignition. NOTE: Most failures of battery
ignition coils is caused by overcharging of the electrical system due to
a defective solid state electronic voltage rectifier/regulator or defective
[automotive] battery. Or the use of aged and deteriorated suppression/carbon-core
spark plug wire and/or an old resistor type spark plug will also cause a
good coil to eventually fail because the secondary windings within the coil
must build up more voltage, which cause the windings to overheat and eventually
burn up from producing excessive voltage to fire the plug. Therefore, if
it's not already equipped, it's best to install an
ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging
system.
IMPORTANT
- All coils will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points
closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent
this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key
switch and/or a master disconnect switch
with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition
system.
![]() New Aftermarket Black Casing High Energy Full Size 12 Volt Canister-Type Oil-Filled Ignition Coil w/3.0 ohm internal primary resistor and mounting bracket. 20,000 volts output. Use with medium capacity condenser. For longevity of the coil, use a metal core spark plug wire and a non-resistor/copper core spark plug [Autolite or Champion] gapped at .035". Replace defective coil or use this part when converting from Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition. Replaces Kohler part # 41 519 21-S. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling. New Aftermarket Aluminum Casing High Energy Full Size 12 Volt Canister-Type Oil-Filled Ignition Coil w/3.0 ohm internal primary resistor and mounting bracket. 20,000 volts output. Use with medium capacity condenser. For longevity of the coil, use a metal core spark plug wire and a non-resistor/copper core spark plug [Autolite or Champion] gapped at .035". Replace defective coil or use this part when converting from Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition. Replaces Kohler part # 41 519 21-S. $35.00 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Kohler Coil, part # 41 519 21-S. Replace defective coil or use this part when converting from Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition. Replaces John Deere part # AM38411 and Tecumseh part # 32080. $88.61 each, plus shipping & handling. New High-Output/Performance Bosch Blue Standard/Full Size 12 Volt Canister-Type Ignition Coil w/3.0 ohm internal primary resistor and mounting bracket. 30,000 volts output. Vibration-Resistant Epoxy-Filled. For longevity of the coil, use a metal core spark plug wire and a non-resistor/copper core spark plug [Autolite or Champion] gapped at .060". Use with ignition points and two medium capacity condensers/capacitors or one high capacity/performance ignition condenser/capacitor for full coil saturation and a strong spark so engine will rev up to full speed, or can be used with ignition points and condenser or A-1 Miller's custom crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition kits. Set spark plug gap at .060" with this coil. This genuine Bosch blue coil is epoxy filled with a steel casing. All epoxy filled or molded epoxy coils will hold up to severe vibrations, can be mounted in any position and will not leak oil (because there is no oil). $60.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
|
![]() |
|
Battery Ignition Coils for Kohler twin cylinder engine models
KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II. Can also be used on Kohler
twin cylinder engine models K482, K532, K582, K660/K662, Onan twin cylinder
engines or Harley-Davidson motorcycles with a fabricated bracket. Each coil
below produce a strong spark, and can be used with ignition points and condenser
or A-1 Miller's custom crank-trigger and
flywheel-trigger electronic ignition kits. IMPORTANT: For longevity
of the coils below, use metal core spark plug wires and copper core spark
plugs [Autolite or Champion] gapped at .025" each. And most failures of
battery-powered ignition coils is caused by the use of resistor type spark
plugs and/or overcharging of the electrical system due to a defective solid
state electronic voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery
which will cause a good coil to eventually fail because the secondary windings
within the coil overheat and eventually burn up from producing excessive
voltage to fire the plug(s). Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's
best to install an ammeter/amp gauge to
monitor the charging system.
IMPORTANT
- All coils will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points
closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent
this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON
[security] key switch and/or a master disconnect
switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power
the ignition system.
High quality, high energy chrome-plated 4.0 ohm oil filled ignition coil with dual metal core conductor spark plug wires. Same diameter as OEM Kohler coil. 20,000 volts output. For longevity of this coil, use non-resistor/copper core spark plugs [Autolite or Champion] gapped at .025" each. Includes: (1) dual tower chrome-plated ignition coil, (2) rubber spark plug wire grommets, (2) plastic thread-on coil boots, (2) 90º spark plug boots w/terminals, and (2) 18" length spark plug wires (can be shortened if desired). Coil dimensions: 4-1/4" length (excluding towers) x 2-1/8" body width x 2-1/4" tower end band width. Replaces Kohler part # 52 755 48-S. $64.00 each, plus shipping & handling. High quality, high energy epoxy encapsulated aftermarket 4.0 ohm ignition coil with metal core conductor spark plug wires. For longevity of this coil, use non-resistor/copper core spark plugs [Autolite or Champion] gapped at .025" each. Same appearance and dimensions as OEM Kohler coil. Replaces Kohler part # 52 755 48-S. $62.00 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Kohler coil with spark plug wires; part # 52 755 48-S. $286.05 each, plus shipping and handing.
Metal Core Conductor spark plug wires for Kohler engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532, K582, K660/K662, or Onan twin cylinder engines. 14" and 18" length each.
|
|
![]() ![]()
|
|
Complete
Battery-Powered Ignition Conversion Kits - When Kohler's
OEM magneto or Breakerless Ignition fails, the engine can be converted to
a battery-powered ignition system. Battery-powered ignition systems last
longer, produce a stronger spark, and when a part goes bad, it doesn't cost
much to replace. It's a reliable, simple design and there's no guesswork
about it. FYI: Battery-powered ignition conversion kits are intended mainly
for various older engines when the OEM magneto or Breakerless Ignition no
longer produce a spark, replacement parts are not available or are very expensive
(cost prohibitive). Also, the most hassle when using battery-powered ignition
without a charging system integrated with the engine to recharge the battery
is the use of a remote battery charger. And eventually a new battery will
need to be purchased, because they only last a few years. For a battery to
power the ignition, a small, lightweight and rechargeable
12 volt sealed lead acid (SLA) battery with a minimum 4Ah
(Amp Hour) rating or a small
motorcycle battery can be used.
FYI - Kohler's Breakerless Ignition and Tecumseh's Solid State Ignition (SSI) systems use a key switch that's also made for a self-energizing magneto or magneto-type solid state ignition system. Unlike the key switch for a battery-powered ignition system, the Breakerless Ignition is self-energizing, and to kill the engine, the key switch grounds out or shorts the [low voltage] circuit between the energizing coil and ignition module. And the battery-powered key switch opens the circuit to kill the engine. So with the battery-powered points and condenser ignition system (along with a 12 volt coil), you will need to use a battery-powered key switch, or an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or [security] key switch to power the ignition and a momentary push button switch to crank the engine could be used instead. If swapping out the OEM Breakerless Ignition, magneto or solid state ignition key switch for a battery-powered ignition key switch, the wire connectors in the wiring harness will need to be rearranged to match the terminals on the key switch to power the ignition, crank the engine and run other electrical accessories. I've done this before on some of my customer's garden tractors and it works great. Click or tap here for battery-powered ignition wiring diagrams. |
|
![]() ![]() |
|
Convert virtually any single cylinder, air-cooled cast iron
or various aluminum block small gas engine, such as Kohler, Tecumseh, Briggs
& Stratton, Clinton, etc., with a failed magneto ignition system to the
battery-powered ignition system. NOTE: Must use a
universal automotive off/ignition/start key switch, or
a push-button switch to crank the engine with an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch
or [security] key switch to power this ignition. Reuse same type of spark
plug and existing ignition points (if in good condition), but set the point
gap at .020" or set ignition timing at 20º BTDC. See ignition kits and
wiring diagram below Ê.
Ignition Kit to Convert from Kohler Magneto Ignition to the More Reliable Battery-Powered Ignition for a Confined Engine Compartment with Limited Space and no place to mount a full size canister coil. A fully charged 12 volt battery is required for this ignition system. Designed for Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331 and K341. When ordering, please indicate model of engine. New parts include: compact high energy epoxy encapsulated 12 volt ignition coil w/3.5 ohm internal primary resistor and integrated metal core spark plug wire, with mounting spacers/screws/nuts; low capacity condenser/capacitor; ignition points; points cover gasket; 9" length "assemble-it-yourself" 16 gauge coil-to-points wire w/terminals (reuse original points cover/wire grommet); and new spark plug. To install terminal on spark plug wire, make sure the pointed prong on the terminal penetrates the insulation of the wire, or strip a short part of the insulation and bend over the wire to make full connect with the terminal, and use a spark plug wire crimping tool, then apply automotive grease on the spark plug wire and inside boot so it will slide easily on the wire and over the terminal. And if using this kit on an engine with a recoil starter, as for the battery cables, being I have no idea how long they need to be, you will need to fabricate these yourself. When ordering, please specify model of engine for correct type of spark plug. Dimensions of coil - overall length of laminations: 3-1/2" x diameter of coil body: 1-1/4" x widest width of coil body: 1-1/2" x mounting hole spacing: 3-1/8" x length of spark plug wire: 13-1/2". To install coil, drill two 7/32" holes outside of flywheel shroud next to carburetor or above starter gear and fasten with two supplied spacers and screws with matching nuts welded to inside of flywheel shroud. (When fastened to flywheel shroud, coil will look factory-installed.) Use #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors when connecting wires to this coil terminals. Set spark plug gap at .030" with this system. IMPORTANT - Either a 12 volt battery-ignition OFF-ON-START key switch, a momentary push button switch (to crank the engine if it is equipped with an electric starter) with an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition) MUST be used with this type of ignition system. Go here for choice of switches. The original magneto coil can be removed from the stator. It will not be needed. If the stator has charging coils, leave them installed and connected so they can recharge the battery and power electrical accessories. IMPORTANT - All coils will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system.
Ignition Kit to Convert from Kohler Magneto Ignition to the More Reliable Battery-Powered Ignition for an Unconfined Engine Compartment with Unlimited Space for mounting of a full size canister coil. A fully charged 12 volt battery is required for this ignition system. Designed for Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331 and K341. When ordering, please indicate model of engine. New parts include: full size canister-type 12 volt ignition coil w/3.0 ohm internal primary resistor and mounting bracket, 11" length metal core conductor spark plug wire, medium capacity condenser/capacitor, ignition points, points cover gasket, 12" length "assemble-it-yourself" 16 gauge coil-to-points wire w/terminals (reuse original points cover/wire grommet), and new spark plug (please specify model of engine when ordering for correct type of spark plug). Set spark plug gap at .035" with this system. And if using this kit on an engine with a recoil starter, as for the battery cables, being I have no idea how long they need to be, you will need to fabricate these yourself. IMPORTANT - Either an OFF-ON-START battery-ignition key switch or an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition) and a momentary push button switch (to crank the engine if it is equipped with an electric starter) MUST be used with this type of ignition system. Go here for choice of switches. And the original magneto coil can be removed from the stator. It will not be needed. If the stator has charging coils, leave them installed and connected so they can recharge the battery and power electrical accessories. IMPORTANT - All coils will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system.
|
|
New points, condensers/capacitors, coils and spark plugs for other makes and models of engines are also available. Please call or email A-1 Miller's for your needs. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any of the above È parts. |
How to Accurately Set the [Point] Ignition Timing on Virtually Any Gas Engine - [Top of Page]
First of all, on a single cylinder cast iron block Kohler engine, anything less than a .020" (which is 20º BTDC) points gap is retarding the ignition timing less than its normal setting, and more than .020" is advancing the timing beyond its normal setting. But sometimes the points lobe on the cam will wear, and the ignition timing can't be fully advanced with a .020" points gap for the 20º BTDC setting. On a Kohler (and virtually any engine without an ignition distributor), widening or narrowing of the points gap is how the ignition timing is adjusted. Widening the gap advances the timing and narrowing it retards the timing, and rotating the distributor does the same. On a Kohler engine, adjust the ignition points by first positioning the piston at TDC on the compression stroke. This is when both valves are fully closed. Then slightly loosen the adjustment screw on the ignition points and place the flat screwdriver in the slot on the points bracket and points lever to widen and narrow the point gap. Then use a [clean] .020" feeler gauge to set the gap. If the screw that fastens the ignition points to the bracket is difficult to get at with a screwdriver on the equipment, then install a socket (Allen) Head screw and use an angled hex key (Allen) wrench to loosen and tighten the screw that clamps the ignition points in place. Delayed or hesitant revving up of the engine indicates either low compression, or the ignition timing is retarded and not set at 20º BTDC.
Engines can't start under full compression
and with advanced ignition timing. One or the other must be "suppressed"
in order for the engine to crank over without "kicking back" to start. Either
it needs to have an automatic compression release to relieve about half the
compression, then the compression will return to full upon start up, or the
timing needs to be positioned at TDC, then it can automatically advance upon
start up. On engines with a camshaft having an automatic compression release
(ACR), the ignition timing cannot be advanced more than approximately 25º
BTDC. If it is, the spark will occur when the exhaust valve opens slightly
(to relieve the compression), and the engine may not start or be hard to
start. It may pop out the carburetor instead. If the timing needs to be set
more than 25º BTDC (for methanol fuel), the ACR will need to be removed
from the camshaft, and to make the engine easier to crank over and start
under full compression, a high torque gear starter, heavy [steel] flywheel,
along with separate starter and ignition switches will need to be used to
prevent "kick back" when attempting to start the engine.
"Kick back" occurs when the crankshaft/flywheel suddenly
and quickly momentarily rotates in the opposite direction, which is could
bend or break the starter armature shaft or break the aluminum starter housing.
To start any engine with advanced timing and under full compression, two
separate switches will need to be used. A push-button switch to crank the
engine, and an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or [security] key switch to power
the ignition. To make this work, first crank the engine over, and while it's
cranking over, choke the carburetor (or use my remote fuel primer system,
which is much easier to use), then flip the ignition switch to "put the spark
to it." The engine should start easily every time. This method works because
the continuing centrifugal spinning force of the flywheel prevents the engine
from "kicking back" when power is being supplied to the
ignition.
The point gap on virtually all 4-cycle small gas engines, rather if it has one or two cylinders, is set at .020" using a feeler gauge with the piston positioned at TDC on the compression stroke. This is when the valves (#1 cylinder for a twin cylinder) are fully closed. This sets the ignition timing approximately at 20º BTDC (Kohler engines), and is the most easiest and simplest way to basically set the timing. A better way is to statically (engine not running) set the timing. But the most accurate way is use an automotive strobe timing light to dynamically set the timing. The timing light connects to the battery and spark plug wire.
To statically (engine not running) set the ignition timing on an engine with ignition points, condenser/capacitor and a stock flywheel, use an ohmmeter (d) (make sure the battery is fully charged) or a battery-powered test light in the ignition points only (the ignition points will act as a switch). To make this happen...
The most accurate way to
set the ignition timing is dynamically. This is with the engine running
and an automotive strobe timing light. The timing light connects to the battery
and spark plug wire. Connect the timing light (if it has an adjustable degree
wheel, set it at 0º), then start the engine. With the engine running
at idle speed, shine the timing light through the sight hole in the flywheel
shroud to see the painted "S" mark on the flywheel and the raised
mark on the bearing plate. When the marks are perfectly aligned, this is
when the timing is set exactly at 20º BTDC. This cannot be done
on an aftermarket steel flywheel or [starter] pulley on the PTO end of the
crankshaft with no timing marks.
The ignition timing greatly depends on where the spark plug is located in the combustion chamber. Most plugs are centered in the combustion chamber. But if it's closer to the exhaust valve, the timing must be advanced slightly more. Location of the spark plug in the combustion chamber and proper ignition timing are two things that's very important in engine performance. Actually, it's best to set the timing with some test pulls or with the engine connected to an engine dynamometer.
Setting the Ignition Timing with an Automotive Non-Inductive or Inductive Strobe Timing Light -
NOTE: The above È method is sufficiently accurate and useful in building a fresh engine and not having to mess with adjusting the ignition points just to get the engine started for the first time. However, after getting the engine started, it's always a good thing to use either an automotive non-inductive or inductive strobe timing light to check to see if the timing is set exactly where it's supposed to be. The timing light connects to the battery and spark plug wire. This is called setting the timing dynamically. Use a timing light when the timing marks on both the bearing plate and flywheel are perfectly aligned. The ignition timing setting for Kohler engines burning GAS is 20-22º BTDC. NEVER run over-advanced timing (beyond the 22º setting) with gas just to try to get "more power" out of an engine! All that'll do is seriously overheat the engine and ruin parts. [Return to previous paragraph, section or website]
To use a non-inductive strobe timing light (these are very old and are considered obsolete because they produce a dim light), connect one lead on the spark plug itself (on a twin cylinder engine, connect it on the #1 cylinder spark plug) and connect the other lead on the coil, then start the engine.
To use an inductive strobe timing light, the engine can be running while connecting the clamps on the battery posts in their respective order, then connect the inductive pickup on the spark plug wire. On a twin cylinder engine, connect it on the #1 cylinder spark plug wire. (The #1 cylinder is the one closest to the flywheel.) If using an inductive strobe timing light with an advance adjustment, make sure it's set at 0 (zero) before setting the timing at the S mark.
Engines can't start under full compression and with advanced ignition timing. One or the other must be "suppressed" in order for the engine to crank over without "kicking back" to start. Either it needs to have an automatic compression release to relieve about half the compression, then the compression will return to full upon start up, or the timing needs to be positioned at TDC, then it can automatically advance upon start up. If an engine has an automatic compression release on the camshaft and the valve clearance is set right (at least for the exhaust valve), chances are the engine will not "kick back" when attempting to start the engine. "Kick back" occurs when the crankshaft/flywheel suddenly and violently rebounds or rotates in the opposite direction, which is could bend or break the starter armature shaft or break the aluminum starter housing. To start any engine with advanced timing and under full compression, two separate switches will need to be used. A push-button switch to crank the engine, and an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or [security] key switch to power the ignition. To make this work, first crank the engine over, and while it's cranking over, choke the carburetor (or use my remote fuel primer system, which is much easier to use), then flip the ignition switch to "put the spark to it." The engine should start easily every time. This method works because the continuing spinning centrifugal force of the flywheel prevents the engine from "kicking back" when power is being supplied to the ignition.
The ignition on Kohler engines aren't like the ignition on most automotive engines. You don't dwell-in the ignition points on a Kohler engine. Instead, you set the point gap at .020" as the initial setting just to get the engine running. Then the ignition timing is set by widening or narrowing the ignition points gap until the timing is at 20º BTDC by observing the alignment timing marks on the flywheel.
NOTE: If the ignition timing is set right and the engine kicks back when trying to start, sometimes, but not always, the compression release isn't releasing enough compression from the combustion chamber. Try setting the valve clearances to specs and see if that makes a difference. If the timing is retarded to reduce the possibility of "kick back", then the engine will run sluggish and not produce enough power. [Return to previous paragraph, section or website]
Another simple way to set the ignition timing is to use a dial indicator to measure the distance of the piston from the top of the block. On the K241 (10hp) Kohler engines, the ignition points just begin to open when the piston is located exactly at .125" BTDC. And on the K301 (12hp), K321 (14hp), K341 (16hp) flathead engines and K361 (18hp OHV) engines, the ignition points just begin to open when the piston is located exactly at .100" BTDC. Distances shown is when the S mark on the flywheel is aligned with the mark on the bearing plate. Take into consideration if the piston doesn't come flush with the top of the block, or if it protrudes out of the cylinder. EXCEPTION: When setting the ignition timing on an older Kohler engine with the old style two-piece camshaft, set the ignition points so they just begin to open with the piston positioned on the compression stroke at 0º TDC (T mark on the flywheel). As soon as the engine starts, the ignition points lobe rotates on the cam pin and flyweights on the cam gear automatically advances the timing to 20º BTDC. Don't set the initial timing at 20º BTDC (S mark) with the old style two-piece camshaft. Due to the absence of an automatic compression release (these engines start under full compression), setting it at 20º BTDC will advance the timing too much and cause the engine to "kick back" when attempting to start the engine. ""Kick back" occurs when the crankshaft/flywheel suddenly and quickly momentarily rotates in the opposite direction, which is could bend or break the starter armature shaft or break the aluminum starter housing. To start any engine with advanced timing and under full compression, two separate switches will need to be used. A push-button switch to crank the engine, and an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or [security] key switch to power the ignition. To make this work, first crank the engine over, and while it's cranking over, choke the carburetor (or use my remote fuel primer system, which is much easier to use), then flip the ignition switch to "put the spark to it." The engine should start easily every time. This method works because the continuing spinning centrifugal force of the flywheel prevents the engine from "kicking back" when power is being supplied to the ignition.
How To Read A Dial Indicator -
Each mark on
the face of a dial indicator represents one thousand of an inch (.001")
graduations. The marks with a number (10, 20, 30, etc.) represents every
ten thousands (.010"). Depending on the size of the engine, for a reading
of .050" or .070" BTDC, first, run the piston up at true TDC, then set the
dial indicator at the .050" or .070" mark. Then, slowly rotate the crankshaft
in opposite of normal engine rotation until the needle reads 0 degrees BTDC.
The needle will move in the counterclockwise
direction (back to the 0 degree mark) as the piston moves downward in the
cylinder.
Where
is the Timing Sight Hole in the Flywheel Shroud?
On the small [8"] flywheel without the starter ring gear and with the starter/generator, the timing sight hole is on the right when facing the front of the flywheel, or on the same side as the starter/generator. But on the large [9-1/2"] flywheel with the starter ring gear and gear starter, the timing sight hole is on the left when facing the front of the flywheel, or on the same side of the carburetor.
To set the ignition timing on the 7hp and 8hp Kohler engines, there's a sight hole in the backside of the bearing plate on the starter/generator side, just behind the flywheel. It has a metal hole cover plug in it. Remove the plug, then slowly rotate the flywheel by hand until you see the S mark. Place a white paint mark on the line. Now connect an automotive strobe timing light, start the engine and note if the mark appears midway in the sight hole. If not, adjust the ignition points until the mark is centered in the hole. This is how you set the ignition timing with a timing light. The timing light connects to the battery and spark plug wire.
It is recommended that a steel flywheel be degreed in on an engine to locate true TDC. Mark the flywheel every 5 degrees out up to 35 degrees BTDC. NOTE: With a steel cam and ground-on point lobe, do not correlate ignition points gap with engine timing there is a range from approximately 10 degrees BTDC to 40 degrees BTDC! Use a continuity tester to set ignition points to desired ignition timing by gapping ignition points.
Ignition timing must be properly set for any engine for it to produce full power. Ignition timing is set according to when the piston reaches its Before Top Dead Center (BTDC) position in the cylinder on the compression stroke. When measuring the piston distance, take in consideration if a piston protrudes out of the cylinder or if it doesn't come flush with the top of the block. And don't trust strange markings on the flywheel.
For precise accuracy, use an ohmmeter (d) (make sure the battery is fully charged) or a battery-powered test light in the ignition points only (the ignition points will act as a switch), a dial indicator to measure the distance of the piston in the cylinder, fasten a degree wheel to the crankshaft flywheel end and you'll need to fabricate a piston stop. On a flathead engine, to serve as a piston stop, a long reach spark plug can be used, and the cylinder head must be positioned so the spark plug is over the piston.
Degree Wheel, Dial Indicator and Piston Stop - The Correct Tools Required to Accurately Set the Ignition Timing - FYI - These tools are also used to degree in a high performance camshaft.
The degree wheel is a round disc (usually made of aluminum) with the facing edge marked off in degrees, similar to the markings on a protractor. It's actually two 180º protractors put together to form a 360º circle. When used in conjunction with a dial indicator, it's installed on the crankshaft during the engine build to degree the cam in and check for correct valve timing events. It can also be used to check for accurate ignition timing. When in use, a degree wheel is fastened to the front of the crankshaft (automotive engines) or flywheel end (small engines). If it's fastened to the PTO end, it will need to face the engine block and be read from that position. |
Dial Indicator and Magnetic Base dial indicator is necessary to check for correct valve timing to tell precisely when a valve starts to open and the moment it closes. This opening and closing is very critical for high performance engines and cannot be done by feel or by sight. A dial indicator can also be used to set accurate ignition timing in relation to piston travel. Each mark on the face of a dial indicator represents one thousandth of an inch (.001") graduations. The marks with a number (10, 20, 30, etc.) represents every ten thousandths of an inch (.010", .020", .030", etc.). A dial indicator always mounts on top of the engine block with a sturdy bolt-on bracket or a magnetic base. Dial indicators are very precision and delicate instruments. Care must be used in handling one. |
Piston Stop Tool
As far as I am aware of, a deck-mounted, flat bar piston stop cannot be purchased
from any source. One will need to be made from scratch. To use a very simple
piston stop for a flathead engine, if the spark plug is perpendicular (at
a 90º angle) with the head, a long-reach (long threaded) spark plug
can be used in the head to serve as the bump-stop. Adjustment of the spark
plug is used to "stop" the piston. Simply position and fasten the head on
the block with a couple of bolts with the plug over the piston. The spark
plug can be adjusted up or down to find true top dead center of the piston
in relationship with the degree wheel.
For a universal deck-mounted, flat bar type of piston stop, the bar should be made of minimum 1/4" thick x 1" wide flat steel or aluminum, drilled with a couple of holes so that it can be fastened to the top of the block with a couple of head bolts, directly over the piston. A minimum 1/4" bolt with a thin jam nut, is threaded in the bar to serve as the bump-stop. Adjustment of the bolt is used to "stop" the piston. If a piston pops out of the cylinder at TDC, then install flat washers as needed so the bar will clear the piston at TDC.
|
With an aftermarket steel flywheel or a stock flywheel with no timing marks, the most accurate way to set the ignition timing [on virtually any engine] is performed by measuring the distance of the piston before it reaches top dead center with a dial indicator in conjunction with a degree wheel fastened to the crankshaft flywheel end. To learn more, read on....
Find TRUE Top Dead Center (TDC) on an Engine with a Steel Flywheel to Accurately Set the Ignition Timing! Parts needed are a degree wheel, dial indicator and piston stop. Or on a flathead engine, a long reach spark plug can be used, and the cylinder head can be positioned it so the spark plug is over the piston.
Magnetic pickup coils and proximity
sensors are very sensitive to mechanical damage (and electrical damage if
connected wrong). For magnetic pickup coils,
set the air gap/clearance from the detectable target (screw, pin or small
raised area on the rotating disc) at .010"-.060" with a brass, plastic, business
card, poster board, stainless steel (anything non-magnetic) feeler gauge.
And being 3-wire inductive proximity sensors have
a farther detection range, set the air gap/clearance at .010"-.188". If the
gap is wider than .188" (3/16") with either sensor, the ignition system may
not produce a spark or the engine could misfire at higher RPM. To prevent
the possibility of an out of time spark occurrence, the detectable target
needs to be a minimum of 3/16" higher than or above the circumference surface
of a steel or cast iron rotating disc or flywheel. Direct metal contact with
either sensor could damage them. When in doubt if a sensor is
mechanically damaged, look at the end of it with the strong magnifying glass
to see any damage. If it is damaged, it needs to be replaced. A
magnetic pickup coil can be tested with a digital multimeter set on 200m
DC, with the negative lead of the meter on the white wire of the pickup coil
and positive lead on the black wire, then pass a small steel screw or bolt
over the end of the magnetic pickup coil. If the meter shows a reading, the
pickup coil is in good condition.
How 3-Wire Inductive and Hall Effect Proximity Sensors Work - (Updated and clarified 10/6/20)
The 3-wire inductive and hall
effect proximity sensors requires external power and function with three
wires: BLUE (power +),
BROWN (power +) and BLACK (signal).
Proximity Sensors are a like a switch and a small generator. They come in
two types:
The NPN proximity sensor, which stands for Negative-Positive-Negative. The "Positive" is when the sensor is in close proximity of the target (this is when spark occurs), and the "Negative" is when the sensor is NOT in close proximity of the target (empty space; no spark occurs). These type of sensors are known as Normally Open. Normally Open is the same as when a mechanical switch is always turned off. In other words, the circuit is open or disconnected, and no power is supplied to the electronic ignition control module/unit (ICU).
And there's the PNP proximity sensor, which stands for Positive-Negative-Positive. The "Negative" is when the sensor is NOT in close proximity of the target (no spark occurs), and the "Positive" is when the sensor is in close proximity of the target (empty space; this when spark occurs). These type of sensors are known as Normally Closed. Normally Closed is the same as when a mechanical switch is always turned on. The circuit is closed or connected, and power is supplied to the electronic ignition control module.
A Normally Open proximity sensor produce electrical current to the ignition module only when it comes in close proximity of a detectable ferrous metal (steel or cast iron) object, then the circuit is closed (LED sensor comes on). Proximity Sensors can only generate electricity when they come in close proximity of a small or narrow detectable iron-based ferrous metal object that a magnet can stick to. A special type of proximity sensor is required to work with non-magnetic metals, such as: aluminum, brass, copper, stainless steel, titanium, etc. Metal detectors, the kind that treasure hunters use, have the special type of proximity sensor.
Normally Open proximity sensors are used mainly for crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition systems on gas engines. 3-wire inductive proximity sensors also work somewhat like metal detectors; if the metal comes close enough to the sensor, with a Normally Open proximity sensor, the alarm will sound. But a Normally Closed sensor works opposite.
The "inductive" proximity sensors can only detect iron-based metal objects, such as steel, that a magnet can stick to. They will not work with non-magnetic metals, such as: aluminum, brass, stainless steel, titanium, etc. And the "hall effect" proximity sensors can only detect the presence of a magnetized metal object, such as the head of a ferrous metal steel screw fastening a magnet to a disc or flywheel. Proximity sensors produce electrical current to the module at all times (LED sensor goes off) while external power is supplied to it except when it comes in close proximity of a detectable ferrous metal object, then the circuit is opened (LED sensor comes on). Some proximity sensors have an LED (Light Emitting Diode) on the rear of unit. If the proximity sensor is wired incorrectly, the LED will stay on and go off when activated. Proximity sensors are used mainly in places where security is needed. They can be used for exterior windows or doors in a secured building. When a window or door with a detectable ferrous metal object is moved away from the sensor, the circuit will be closed and an alarm will sound and/or lights will come on. Also, when a Normally Open proximity sensor is used with electronic crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger ignition, the wider the gap in the rotating disc, the longer the duration of the spark, which makes for a more thorough burning of the fuel. It's almost impossible to tell the difference between a Normally Open and Normally Closed sensor just by looking at them because they appear to be identical. If a 3-wire inductive proximity sensor has no markings or indications to show that it's a Normally Open (N/O) and Normally Closed (N/C), a 100% sure way to determine the type, is read the label on the sensor (may need to use a strong magnifying glass), or test it with the wires connected in a circuit as shown in the drawings further down in this website. Ê Click here for more information: Proximity Sensor - YouTube.
Using a Proximity Sensor and Ignition control Module to Power an LED or Light Bulb - (Added 8/19/17)
A proximity sensor cannot only
be used with crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger ignition, but they can also
be used to illuminate an LED (Light Emitting Diode) or low-amp (maximum 2
amp) 12 volt filament light bulb. When a mechanically-operated push-button
switch is subject to a lot of moisture, dirt and debris (such as the switch
for a brake light and/or safety indicator light on a pulling sled), which
can clog up the plunger in the switch and damage or corrode the internal
contacts, and cause it to malfunction, a proximity sensor can take its place
because they're completely sealed, making them dirt and water proof. For
the proximity sensor work with an LED or light bulb, it will need to be used
with an ignition control module, such as the ordinary/stock GM 4-pin HEI
module. The LED or light bulb connects in place of the ignition coil. All
LED's have a positive (+) and negative () wires. The positive wire
(usually red in color) connects to the B terminal on the module, and
the negative lead connects to the C terminal. And the two wires on
the light bulb can connect either way to B and C. Also, two
separate proximity sensors, one used for a brake light and the other for
a safety indicator light, and one module can be used to power one LED or
one low-amp light, but both proximity sensors must be either Normally Open
or Normally Closed. One will not work with the other with the same module.
How Magnetic and Non-Magnetic Pickup Coils Work -
A magnetic pickup coil works like a Normally Open proximity sensor. Magnetic pickup coils have two wires, are self-generating and require no external power. They can only generate electricity when they come in close proximity of a small or narrow detectable iron-based ferrous metal object that a magnet can stick to. They will not work with non-magnetic metals, such as: aluminum, brass, copper, stainless steel, titanium, etc. And a non-magnetic pickup coil also have two wires, are self-generating and require no external power. They can only generate electricity when it comes in close proximity of a small or narrow detectable magnet or magnetized metal object, such as the head of a ferrous metal steel screw fastening a magnet to the edge of a disc or flywheel. Click here for more information: Magnetic Pickup Coil - YouTube.
Magnetic pickup coils and proximity
sensors are very sensitive to mechanical damage (and electrical damage if
connected wrong). For magnetic pickup coils,
set the air gap/clearance from the detectable target (screw, pin or small
raised area on the rotating disc) at .010"-.060" with a brass, plastic, business
card, poster board, stainless steel (anything non-magnetic) feeler gauge.
And being 3-wire inductive proximity sensors have
a farther detection range, set the air gap/clearance at .010"-.188". If the
gap is wider than .188" (3/16") with either sensor, the ignition system may
not produce a spark or the engine could misfire at higher RPM. To prevent
the possibility of an out of time spark occurrence, the detectable target
needs to be a minimum of 3/16" higher than or above the circumference surface
of a steel or cast iron rotating disc or flywheel. Direct metal contact with
either sensor could damage them. When in doubt if a sensor is
mechanically damaged, look at the end of it with the strong magnifying glass
to see any damage. If it is damaged, it needs to be replaced. A
magnetic pickup coil can be tested with a digital multimeter set on 200m
DC, with the negative lead of the meter on the white wire of the pickup coil
and positive lead on the black wire, then pass a small steel screw or bolt
over the end of the magnetic pickup coil. If the meter shows a reading, the
pickup coil is in good condition.
How to Set the [Points and Condenser] Ignition Timing on an Aluminum Block Flathead Tecumseh Engine - [Top of Page]
First of all, on virtually any spark-ignition engine, advancing or retarding
of the ignition timing is performed by widening (advancing the timing) or
narrowing (retarding the timing) the ignition point gap, and on all Tecumseh
engines with ignition points/condenser ignition, this is performed by rotating
the ignition stator (the aluminum part the ignition points, condenser/capacitor
and coil are fastened onto) one way or the other. On all aluminum block flathead
Tecumseh engines, the entire ignition system is located under the flywheel.
(There is no ignition points lobe on the camshaft.)
I've replaced many of these points and condensers over the years. I also had to reset the ignition timing whenever I removed the stator to replace the oil seal or rebuild the engine. But I learned instead of manually resetting the timing, before removing the stator, I placed a flat chisel alignment mark on the stator mounting flange & engine block. This puts the stator back in its original position when reinstalling it. The original indention of the serrated washer under each bolt can also be used to put the stator back in its original position. By the way - instead of using a dial indicator to find the distance of the piston BTDC, I've always used a .035" or .070" thickness large flat washer to set the ignition timing. I place the washer on top of the piston, then run the piston up on the compression stroke until the washer comes flush with the deck of the block.
NOTE: If the ignition timing is set correct and the engine kicks back upon starting, sometimes, but not always, the compression release mechanism on the camshaft isn't releasing enough compression from the combustion chamber. When this happens, try setting the valve clearances to specs (.008" intake / .010" exhaust) and see if that makes a difference. If the timing is retarded to reduce the possibility of "kick back", then the engine will be hard to start, run sluggish and not produce adequate power.
If the stator mounting bolts are loosened and the stator is rotated for any reason, the setting of the timing with the ignition points as described above will need to be repeated. Therefore, it's best to place a scribe mark made with a wide-blade cold chisel against the edge of the stator laminations and one or both of the raised bolt bosses on the engine block. This way, the stator can be reinstalled with the chisel mark(s) aligned and the timing will be set correctly. But if the original stator is replaced with one from another engine, the setting of the timing with the ignition points will need to be repeated |
How to Fix the Problem with a Severely Worn Ignition Points Lobe on a Kohler Camshaft -
Sometimes the ignition points lobe on the camshaft in a single cylinder Kohler
engine or the breaker cam (points lobe) in the governor assembly on Kohler
engine models K482, K532 and K582 will become worn or have a groove worn
in it so severe that the ignition timing can't be advanced to the factory
setting of 20º BTDC so the engine will produce adequate power. There's
a way to fix this, and there's no need to purchase another camshaft or do
welding on the ignition points lobe.
Simply install a stainless
steel nut on the OEM ignition points pushrod. A stainless steel nut is
very hard, yet slicker than a plain steel nut, which will allow it to slide
against the ignition points lobe with less friction, lessening wear to the
unworn area of the ignition points lobe. The nut will make contact with the
unworn sides of the lobe, allowing the ignition timing to be fully advanced
to 20º BTDC as if the lobe isn't worn at all. The
flared-end ignition points pushrod or "stainless
steel nut on the pushrod" can also be used for an unworn ignition points
lobe for longer wear of the lobe. To fix the problem with a severely worn
ignition points lobe...
[Return
to previous paragraph, section or website]
If
doing the above È doesn't help to advance
the timing quite far enough (for gas and especially methanol fuel), grinding
(and polishing) of the lobe may need to be done. Grind about .050" deep in
the surface just before the lobe (see drawing to the right) and about
1/2" from the lobe to right next to the lobe, but not on the lobe itself!
A die grinder with a porting stone works excellent for doing this. After
doing this, the timing can then be advanced as far as 50º BTDC! The
alternative to using the flared-end points pushrods is to install a custom-made
flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic
ignition system.
When advancing the ignition timing past
24º± BTDC, and if the camshaft has an automatic compression release,
it will need to be removed because the spark will occur when the exhaust
valve opens slightly to relieve some of the compression, preventing the engine
from starting. And to make the engine easier to crank over under full
compression, a high torque starter motor with separate starter and ignition
switches to prevent "kick back" will need to be used.
"Kick back" occurs when
the crankshaft/flywheel suddenly and violently rebounds or rotates in the
opposite direction, which is could bend or break the starter armature shaft
or break the aluminum starter housing. To start any engine with advanced
timing and under full compression, two separate switches will need to be
used. A push-button switch to crank the engine, and an OFF-ON toggle/flip
switch or [security] key switch to power the ignition. To make this work,
first crank the engine over, and while it's cranking over, choke the carburetor
(or use my remote
fuel primer system, which is much easier to use), then flip
the ignition switch to "put the spark to it." The engine should start easily
every time. This method works because the continuing spinning centrifugal
force of the flywheel prevents the engine from "kicking back" when power
is being supplied to the ignition.
To install the flared-end points pushrod in Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582, first of all, the governor assembly unit is located on top of the engine. Remove the points cover and points, disconnect the linkage and remove the two mounting bolts; disassemble the unit; install the flared-end points pushrod from inside the unit; reassembly the unit; and when reinstalling the unit, it MUST be timed by following the instructions below; reinstall the points and set the gap at .020"; and the ignition timing will also need to be precisely set by following the instructions below.
To keep crankcase oil from
contaminating the ignition points on a Kohler engine is to install a new
[stainless steel] ignition points pushrod and/or if the hole in the block
is slightly worn, install a small, snug-fitting neoprene rubber O-ring on
the ignition points pushrod. Place the O-ring on the outside [of the block]
and close to the engine block. The oil will travel out to the O-ring and
drip off, staying off the ignition points. But if the ignition points pushrod
hole is excessively worn, this will effect the ignition timing as well, and
the block will need to be machined for installation of a bronze sleeve bushing,
or the hole can be plugged, and solid state or
crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic
ignition installed.
Another way to keep crankcase
oil from contaminating the ignition points on a Kohler engine, install an
OEM Kohler Diaphragm Seal. It's made of clear,
silicone rubber, slides over the pushrod, and is held in place by the ignition
points mounting bracket. IMPORTANT - Before installing the seal, apply
clean motor oil, gear oil or lubricating grease inside seal lip or on ignition
points pushrod for lubrication and to prevent premature wear of the seal.
Ignition System Options - [Top of Page]
If a Kohler K-series engine originally came with ignition points and condenser/capacitor ignition, and you're looking for a more reliable and maintenance-free ignition system, well, you have these options...
Get That
Old, Antique Small Engine Running Again with 21st Century
Technology Using 100% Reliable Digital Electronic Ignition, Even When New
Placement Parts Are Obsolete or Cost-Prohibited!
Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any
of these parts or services. [Return
to previous paragraph, section or website] [Top of Page]
This is the era of modern wonders, where everything is electronic, transistorized, digitized and miniaturized. Yet even today, many garden pulling tractors with an older engine still use the old-fashioned breaker point ignition systems. For other people, the frustration of attempting to keep a breaker point-fired tractor in peak running condition has been enough of a reason to join the electronic/solid state electronic ignition era. Breaker point systems do have some positives, though. ignition points are cheap and somewhat easy to install. And many people are comfortable with installing their own ignition points. The bad side of using ignition points is, besides the ignition points contacts burning, pitting and wearing out, if or when the ignition points lobe on the (Kohler) camshaft and/or the ignition points pushrod become worn, this will narrow the gap on the ignition points, and retard the ignition timing. The ignition points lobe can wear so much that resetting the ignition points at the factory setting of .020" or setting the ignition timing at 20º BTDC becomes impossible. As the point gap gets too narrow, the ignition timing will become retarded (less than the factory setting of 20º BTDC), which will cause the engine to run sluggish and lose power, and when it gets too wide, the timing will become too advanced (more than the factory setting of 20º BTDC), which will cause the engine to run hotter than normal, which could cause premature engine wear and oil burning, eventually resulting in an engine rebuild. There's also less chance of a dangerous fire due to non-existence of ignition points.
Self-energizing small engine magneto ignition
coils and battery-powered coils with either points and condenser or electronic
ignition must be used with a metal core conductor spark plug wire and a
non-resistor/copper core spark plug. Most automobiles with electronic ignition
have
suppression/carbon core spark plug wires. However, if a
suppression/carbon core spark plug wire and/or a resistor type spark plug
is used with a magneto or battery-powered ignition coil, the coil may operate
at a much higher than normal temperature (too hot to the touch), and either
the coil will fail or the engine will idle well, but hesitate to rev up at
high RPM due to the high resistance in the suppression/carbon core spark
plug wire and/or a resistor type spark plug. And avoid using a
suppression/carbon core spark plug wire with an electronic
ignition system on a small engine! The reason being is if the suppression/carbon
core spark plug wire becomes extremely weak and deteriorated with very high
resistance, this can cause the ignition coil and possibly the electronic
ignition control module to burn up.
When the timing is retarded, the engine may be difficult to start, and when does start, it may not idle well, and it'll lack sufficient power. Also, with retarded timing, all of the fuel in the combustion chamber will not be burned. Part of the raw fuel will exit out of the exhaust, while the rest will remain in the chamber combustion and cling to the cylinder wall, causing the lubricating crankcase oil to become diluted and contaminated with gas. When this happens, "cylinder wash down" will result. Cylinder wash down is when the gas dilutes the thin coat of oil on the cylinder wall, and the piston rings will no longer be adequately lubricated, causing them to wear (scrape) against the cylinder wall excessively, resulting in worn rings, possibly a worn cylinder wall, and eventually a smoky engine. Cylinder wash down can also happen to a diesel engine when the fuel injectors are "turned up" or fuel delivery is increased so the engine will produce more power. (It will also blow more black smoke out the exhaust.)
But when the ignition timing is too advanced, this will cause the engine to run hotter than normal, which will likely cause the piston to swell more than usual, allowing it to make metal to metal contact against the cylinder wall, causing excessive wear and friction. And the rings will lose their expansion against the cylinder wall as well. Eventually, due to the lose-fitting piston in the cylinder, the engine (piston) will make a rattling sound and start smoking out the exhaust, and it will ultimately need to be rebuilt.
Crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition delivers twice the voltage and twice the duration of spark to the spark plugs, increasing engine performance and spark plug life. No ignition points to burn, no moving parts to wear out. Epoxy molding of the ignition components makes them impervious to dirt, oil, grease and moisture. Stable timing, no need for adjustment - ever! If installed correctly, crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger stabilizes the ignition timing and will always have a strong spark, so you won't ever have to worry about it. There'll be less of a chance of spark plug fouling, and the fuel will be burned more thoroughly. The engine will produce more power and you will have more confidence that the engine will last longer. So for the utmost precision ignition timing and maintenance-free convenience, crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition is the way to go! It will allow the engine to idle better, rev up and run smoother, and produce more power at high RPM or wide open throttle.
Tired of changing or constantly adjusting the ignition points? Convert to the 100% digitized crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition! For improved performance, easier starting, and less moving parts to leave your tractor dead on the track. Shock and moisture resistant, and all it takes is a few simple hand tools to install. In my opinion, getting rid of the ignition points and condenser/capacitor has been the best advance ever in engine technology.
Virtually Any Gas Engine Can Be Converted To the Flywheel- or Crank-Trigger Electronic Ignition!
My custom-made crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition kits will work with virtually any 2- or 4-cycle engine, as long as the magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor, or the Dynatek Dyna S or PerTronix Ignitor modules can be mounted securely, and there's a trigger rotor or disc of some kind, that can also be secured in place.
If an engine is connected to a battery (and if it has a charging system to keep the battery fully charged for prolong use), and if there's room on the PTO end of the crankshaft for the ignition disc, and a place to mount the bracket for the magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor, then the engine can be converted to crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition. And the ignition disc doesn't have to be made of aluminum. If there's a steel hub mounted on the end of the crankshaft, it could be used to trigger the ignition. As long as the head(s) of the detectable target, rather if it's a small magnet, screw, pin, projection (hump) or OEM protruding bolt head on the edge of a flywheel or on a rotating disc, is/are higher than the outer edge of the [steel] hub (signal detection), the magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor will detect it/them. [Return to previous paragraph, section or website]
Kohler's Breakerless Ignition System -
Kohler Breakerless Ignition (and Tecumseh Cast Iron Block Engine Solid State Ignition) are a 100% digital system and requires no mechanical or physical contact to activate any moving parts. It operates basically on the same general principle as crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger ignition. Kohler's Breakerless Ignition and Tecumseh's Solid State Ignitions are their version of a flywheel-trigger electronic ignition system as described further down in this website. A trigger module containing solid state electronics performs the same function as the breaker points. Because there are no breaker points in this system, there are no requirements for ignition timing. The Module Sensor, as part of the Breakerless Ignition system, is energized by two windings on the charging stator under the flywheel. Breakerless Ignition is pretty much maintenance free, with very few parts to wear out or become defective. But when it does fail, OEM replacement parts are no longer available from any source. But my crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger ignition kits can replace a defective Breakerless Ignition and Tecumseh's Solid State ignition systems. IMPORTANT - The wire that comes from the stator under the flywheel for Kohler Trigger Module or Tecumseh Solid State Ignition Module generates about 250 volts while the engine is running at full governed speed (serious). Do not touch this wire (terminal) with one bare hand and the engine itself with your other hand while the engine is running! It is not needed for any of my crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition systems. So snip off this wire or tape up the terminal to prevent a short circuit or electrocution.
Kohler engines with the Breakerless Ignition System are rare. In fact, out of the 1,000's of Kohler engines that were manufactured, only 92 of these originally came with Breakerless Ignition. Most originally came with points and condenser ignition because it's more reliable. Apparently, there's a good reason why Kohler stopped installing Breakerless Ignition after a short time. The models and specification numbers of Kohler engines that originally came with Breakerless Ignition are as follows: K181-30296, 30518, 30519, 30529, 30666; K241-46513, 46536, 46566, 46578, 46591, 46613, 46614, 46615, 46624, 46634, 46640, 46651; K301-47145, 47147, 47204, 47232, 47249, 47252, 47255, 47275, 47277, 47278, 47284, 47289, 47295, 47303, 47304, 47305, 47313, 47314, 47335, 47336, 47339, 47340, 47346, 47350, 47362, 47363, 47365, 47367, 47371, 47374, 47375, 47378, 47387, 47389, 47391, 4739, 47400, 47402, 47403, 47407, 47410, 47420, 47422, 47423, 47424, 47814; K321-6006, 6008, 60105, 60121, 60124, 60125, 6013, 60131, 60132, 60133, 60176, 60187, 60189, 60201, 60213, 60239, 60275, 6051, 6053, 6055, 6058, 6071, 6079, 6081, 6088, 6093.
The Breakerless Ignition System was used on various Kohler engine models K181, K241, K301 and K321. The Trigger Module (the part that's fastened to the bearing plate and extends over the ring gear, and is triggered by the projection (hump) or OEM protruding bolt head on the edge of the flywheel) is part of the Breakerless Ignition System. To test the Coil and Trigger Module, refer to Kohler K-series Single Cylinder Engine Service Manual TP-2379. If the Breakerless Ignition fails to produce a spark, the Coil and Trigger Module have been discontinued by Kohler. And if you're looking for an alternative and reliable replacement ignition system to get your engine running again, well, you have the three options below... (Updated 1/30/20)
FYI - Kohler's Breakerless Ignition and Tecumseh's Solid State Ignition (SSI) systems use a key switch that's also made for a self-energizing magneto or magneto-type solid state ignition system. Unlike the key switch for a battery-powered ignition system, the Breakerless Ignition is self-energizing, and to kill the engine, the key switch grounds out or shorts the [low voltage] circuit between the energizing coil and ignition module. And the battery-powered key switch opens the circuit to kill the engine. So with the battery-powered points and condenser ignition system (along with a 12 volt coil), you will need to use a battery-powered key switch, or an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or [security] key switch to power the ignition and a momentary push button switch to crank the engine could be used instead. If swapping out the OEM Breakerless Ignition, magneto or solid state ignition key switch for a battery-powered ignition key switch, the wire connectors in the wiring harness will need to be rearranged to match the terminals on the key switch to power the ignition, crank the engine and run other electrical accessories. I've done this before on some of my customer's garden tractors and it works great. Click or tap here for battery-powered ignition wiring diagrams.
Advertisement:
If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed
in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501
W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO
(Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | ![]() ![]()
Ignition Upgrade Kit for Kohler engine models KT17 Series II or KT19 Series II for General Yard & Garden Work, or Competition Pulling. This ignition system works flawlessly and may outlast the life of the engine. This ignition system operates off the flywheel end of the crankshaft. Use this on the KT17 Series II or KT19 Series II engines to replace the ignition points. This ignition system may outlast the life of the engine. This is a high performance ignition system that produce a stable and very strong spark, even with a stock ignition coil, allowing the engine to start quick, idle smoothly and rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or misfire to produce more power. To prevent burning up the PerTronix Ignitor module, it MUST be used with a coil having a minimum of 3.0 ohms resistance. This revolutionizes the ignition system for the opposed twin cylinder Kohler engines! Use this setup for durability instead of points and condenser. Use with the OEM off/ignition/start key switch and ignition coil. Simple two wire hook-up; RED wire on module/sensor connects to 12 volt ignition switch (battery positive (+) post), and BLACK wire on module/sensor connects to coil negative () terminal. Kit includes PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor w/mounting bracket and hardware, small magnet/screw/cushioning washer and a 1/4-28 UNF Allen set screw to plug the points pushrod hole. Use a 1/4-28 UNF hand tap to cut 1/4" deep threads in the points pushrod hole, apply 150± PSI air pressure in the oil fill tube to blow the metal cuttings out of the points pushrod hole while cutting the threads, then install the set screw. PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor is triggered by a small magnet fastened in a specific place on edge of flywheel. Use the OEM ignition coil with metal core spark plug wires and copper core spark plugs gapped at .025" each. FYI - The module is diode-protected, and will NOT burn up if the wires are connected in reverse with power supplied. But the module will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller because nobody else advertise this kind of ignition setup. Flywheel-Trigger Ignition Kit for Kohler engine models KT17 Series II or KT19 Series II. $175.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
|
To convert the Kohler opposed twin cylinder engine models KT17
Series II and KT19 Series II to solid state electronic ignition, parts off
of a Kohler Magnum opposed twin cylinder engine model MV16, M18, MV18, M20
or MV20 will need to be used. Parts needed are: flywheel, solid state electronic
ignition coil/module, coil mounting bracket and mounting screws. The flywheel
is a direct replacement, but to mount the coil bracket, two 1/4-20 UNC (coarse
thread) holes will need to be
drilled and tapped
in the bosses of the #1 cylinder (on your right when facing the flywheel)
for two 1/4-20 UNC (coarse thread) x 1" length bolts. The ignition points
can be removed and the ignition points pushrod hole can be permanently plugged
with a short 1/4" bolt, Allen set screw or
clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant. The solid state electronic
ignition system will not work on the first design KT17 and KT19 engines because
there are no bosses on the cylinder(s) to mount the bracket for the ignition
coil. However, the cylinder(s) off an MV16, M18 and MV18 will work on a first
design KT17 engine, and the cylinder(s) off a KT19 Series II, M20 and MV20
engine will work on a first design KT19 engine. The only difference between
the KT17, KT17 Series II, MV16, M18 and MV18 cylinders, and KT19, KT19 Series
II, M20 and MV20 cylinders is the length of the valves. I realize this would
be a lot of work just to use solid state electronic ignition on a first design
KT17 or KT19 engine, but this is the best way of making it happen. Also,
a magneto ignition switch will be need to be used to ground the coil to shut
off the engine. Check with your local small engine repair shops/salvage yards,
search eBay, Craigslist or the Internet for the required Magnum engine parts.
To convert the Kohler K-series single cylinder engines (K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321 or K341) to solid state electronic ignition, the flywheel, bearing plate, starter motor and solid state electronic ignition coil/module off of a Kohler Magnum M8, M10, M12, M14 or M16 engine will need to be used. The M8 parts can be used on the Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161 and K181. And the M10, M12, M14 or M16 parts can be used on the Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321 and K341. The ignition stator (under the flywheel) charging system will need to be used, too.
Stable ignition timing is a necessity in high performance engines. In most cases, a ignition points ignition will do just fine, but when you start making big time horsepower with extreme cylinder pressures and higher RPM, the timing is critical to both the performance and life of the engine. The ignition must be triggered at a precise time in relation to the position of the piston during the compression stroke. However, the timing can get erratic or fluctuate at high RPM or wide open throttle with the ignition points system, due to camshaft end play, clearance in both the crank and cam gears and mechanical flexing that takes place through the camshaft support pin, especially when using a high lift cam with very stiff valve springs. In fact, if you ever checked the timing on an engine with camshaft-operated ignition points using an inductive strobe timing light, you may have noticed that the timing mark on the flywheel (or starter pulley on the PTO end) will fluctuate or "move up and down" a few degrees. And it'll fluctuate more as the engine RPM increases. This won't happen with crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition. It totally eliminates spark flutter or fluctuations and erratic timing problems common with point ignitions. With crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition, the "tighter" the main bearings are, the more stable the timing is.
When checking the timing with an inductive strobe timing light on an engine with crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic and main ball bearings, it's best to run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature. The reason for this is the free play in the ball bearings is lessened as the bearings get warm, providing a more stable spark.
The crankshaft knows exactly
where the piston is, plus the crankshaft is the most stable component in
an engine in relation to piston position. That's why
crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic
ignition is so important in high-horsepower/high RPM or
wide
open throttle engine applications. With this ignition, you get absolutely
stable timing with 1/10th± of a degree of accuracy from 0 to 15,000+
RPM without missing a beat (when using an electronic ignition control module/unit
(ICU) with a high capacity transistor). The 1/10th± of a degree is the
result of the oil clearance in the main bearings. With a high capacity electronic
ignition control module, the crank-trigger
and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition system will work flawlessly
without missing a hit even if the engine is capable of turning up to 100,000
RPM! Because it works as fast as the speed of electricity, which can be anywhere
from about 50% to 99% of the speed of light, depending upon the quality of
the electronic components and wiring connections. As long as the crank-trigger
ignition system is installed and the timing is set correctly, it'll help
a competition pulling tractor scream down the track. Also, with the
crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic
ignition system, you can set the ignition timing and forget it!
The crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition is when the mechanical breaker points and condenser/capacitor are totally eliminated and replaced by solid state electronic components. Actually, it works on the same principle as the electronic ignition that's used in the older automobiles (before computerized ignition systems). The conventional ignition points ignition system is considered as old-fashioned technology by today's standards. Even the [high dollar] aftermarket adjustable ignition plate that's made for Chevy ignition points is considered old-fashioned by today's standards!
Using ignition points versus crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition is up to you. Personally, I prefer the crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger ignition setup because it's very reliable and virtually maintenance free. With conventional ignition, the ignition points will ALWAYS go bad or wear out. The contacts on ignition points can get dirty, worn, burnt, oily (oil seepage from the crankcase through the ignition points pushrod hole), out of adjustment, wet (whenever the tractor is washed off or rained upon) or even oxidized (light corrosion). The use of a high-output/performance ignition coil can also shorten the life of ignition points. And the condenser/capacitor can become defective.
When replacing the ignition coil on a Kohler engine model KT17,
KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II, K482, K532, K582, or Onan twin cylinder
engines, instead of using the high-dollar standard-output/stock OEM Kohler
coil, you can use either two automotive-type canister coils with two
condensers/capacitors (one condenser/capacitor per coil), a 2-post
Harley-Davidson coil (this particular coil also works great
for Kohler engine model KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II, K482,
K532, K582, K660/K662, or Onan twin cylinder engines, or a
GM DIS (Distributorless Ignition System) coil.
The DIS coil has a 0.4 ohm internal
primary resistor, and when used with points, two 1.6 ohm ballast resistors
(which totals 3.6 ohms of resistance), will need to be connected to the coil
in series for longer points life and to prevent premature burning of the
points contacts. Also, two medium capacity ignition condensers/capacitors
or one high-capacity/performance condenser/capacitor will need to be used
with this coil so it will produce maximum voltage to the spark plugs, allowing
the engine rev up to full speed (wide open throttle) with no hesitation or
misfire. Also, the DIS coil is a high-output/performance coil that
produce up to 40,000 volts, so
the
spark plug gaps can be set at .060" each. The DIS coil has molded epoxy internal
construction, which makes it vibration-resistant. The DIS coil part numbers
are AC Delco D555 or Standard Motor Products DR39X, and was used in select
GM vehicles from 1985 to the 2005, one of which is the 2005 Chevrolet Impala.
There is no positive (+) or negative () connections on the two small
terminals on these coils. They can be connected either way. When using ignition
points with 12 volts, install a ballast resistor
to prevent burning up the coil, and connect two medium capacity ignition
condensers/capacitors or one high capacity/performance condenser/capacitor
so the coil will produce more voltage. (When using 2 condensers, connect
the wire of each condenser to the negative terminal on the coil and ground
the bodies of the condensers.) A ballast
resistor is not required with crank-trigger
and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition or in a 6 volt system. NOTE:
The condenser body must be securely fastened to the engine/chassis ground
for the engine to run smooth. If the condenser is loose in its bracket, the
bracket can be squeezed slightly with large pliers to be made oblong or
egg-shaped, and then the condenser will remain tight inside it. But if an
engine idles well, but runs erratically above idle, like it hits and misses,
pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs a new condenser/capacitor.
And always install a condenser/capacitor with the wire or terminal facing
down so rain water and/or when washing off engine, water will not enter inside
condenser/capacitor, ruining it. Which will allow the engine to idle well,
but run erratically when revved up.
Click or tap here to hear what
an engine with a faulty condenser/capacitor sounds like.
Go here to see how well the GM DIS coil works: Gravely 817 Onan CCKA Coil Replacement with Chevy GM DIS Coil - YouTube (Video posted by Ralph (rw3dog@yahoo.com)
If the engine is has opposed 180º cylinders, then only one module and one [two post] coil can be used to fire both cylinders. The engine will have a wasted spark. One cylinder will fire on the compression stroke, while other will fire on the exhaust stroke. But being the 90º V-twin engines fire at 90º intervals and not at 180º for each cylinder, two separate modules and two coils will need to be used.
How to Install Electronic Ignition on a Kohler engine model K482, K532 and K582 - (Added 3/14/19) More information to be added later.
|
At very high RPM or
wide
open throttle, with conventional ignition points and condenser/capacitor
ignition, the ignition coil operates at about 80% efficiency. The same is
true with high-output/performance ignition coils because they require more
power from the battery. But with crank-trigger
and flywheel-trigger ignition, using the GM 4-pin HEI, Chrysler (w/ballast
resistor) or Ford electronic ignition control module/unit
(ICU), any type of coil operates at 100% efficiency at any
RPM, which produce a much stronger spark. This is why Chevrolet refers to
their 1974-'90 electronic ignition as HEI, meaning High Energy Ignition.
The reason there's a stronger spark is because at higher RPM, there's no
condenser/capacitor to break down the voltage in the primary circuit in the
coil.
When a magnetic pickup coil is used with crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger ignition, the duration of each spark lasts about twice as long than with ignition points and condenser/capacitor ignition. And when a 3-wire inductive proximity sensor is used with crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger ignition, the spark duration is about 4 times longer than with ignition points and condenser/capacitor ignition, because a 3-wire inductive proximity sensor can detect the target, rather if it's a small screw, pin, projection (hump) or OEM protruding bolt head on the edge of a flywheel or on a rotating disc, at the farther distance than a magnetic pickup coil. A longer spark duration burns the fuel more thoroughly, especially at very high RPM, resulting in more power. Although a 3-wire inductive proximity sensor can be used on a stock engine running at around 4,000 RPM with no problems, it's more suited for a high performance engine (than the magnetic pickup coil) due to its longer spark duration. In other words, a stock engine with limited RPM will not benefit from the longer spark duration. Also, the closer the magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor is set to the target, rather if it's a small screw, pin, projection (hump) or OEM protruding bolt head on the edge of a flywheel or on a rotating disc, the longer the duration will be.
Items Needed and Details on How to Install a Flywheel- or Crank-Trigger Electronic Ignition System (on virtually any gas engine) - [Top of Page]
ü A Universal Magnetic Pickup Coil,
Crankshaft Position Sensor, Tach/Speed Sensor or a 3-Wire Inductive (detects
iron/steel) Proximity Sensor. Virtually any automotive engine speed sensor
or crank position sensor will work for this system. These all work the same.
These sensors require no power from the battery or module because they
self-generate an AC signal. Be sure to use a magnetic one that produce
a small electrical current whenever a small steel (nonmagnetic) object is
passed quickly over the end of it. Most magnetic pickup coils generate 2-3
volts. Also, there needs to be a way to mount it on the engine so the air
gap/clearance and ignition timing can be set and/or adjusted. A universal
magnetic pickup coil is most common for this application. It's an engine
speed sensor (Tach Sensor) that threads in the bellhousing of a late model
truck with a Diesel engine for activation of the
tachometer. A crank position sensor is an automotive
unit that threads in the engine block and reads off a cogged wheel mounted
on the crankshaft. It's for a crank-trigger
and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition system that's on an automobile
with a computer-controlled engine that has electronic fuel injection.
The Ford (various
1987-2009 models) ABS wheel speed sensor will work as the magnetic pickup
coil with the crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger
ignition. And various GM crank position sensors have three or more wires,
but use just two wires. (They're nothing more than a magnetic pickup coil.)
The third (or other) wire(s) is ground or neutral and really don't need to
be used with crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger
ignition. When you buy a sensor, test it to see which wires produce the
electrical current, then just snip off the (useless) other wire(s). A 3-wire
inductive proximity sensor, magnetic pickup coil and crank position sensor
can be easily tested by connecting it to an
analog or
digital multimeter that's set on the lowest AC scale, then
quickly pass the head of a small steel bolt or nail back and forth across
the end of the sensor. If the analog needle fluctuates slightly or the digital
display goes up and down each time the metal object makes a pass, the sensor
is in working order. The more voltage a sensor produce, the stronger the
spark. Use a small magnet or a
telescoping magnetic pickup tool with a small magnet to
test a non-magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire hall effect proximity sensor. The
stronger the magnet, the more voltage the sensor will produce, resulting
in a stronger spark.
Magnetic pickup coils and proximity
sensors are very sensitive to mechanical damage (and electrical damage if
connected wrong). For magnetic pickup coils,
set the air gap/clearance from the detectable target (screw, pin or small
raised area on the rotating disc) at .010"-.060" with a brass, plastic, business
card, poster board, stainless steel (anything non-magnetic) feeler gauge.
And being 3-wire inductive proximity sensors have
a farther detection range, set the air gap/clearance at .010"-.188". If the
gap is wider than .188" (3/16") with either sensor, the ignition system may
not produce a spark or the engine could misfire at higher RPM. To prevent
the possibility of an out of time spark occurrence, the detectable target
needs to be a minimum of 3/16" higher than or above the circumference surface
of a steel or cast iron rotating disc or flywheel. Direct metal contact with
either sensor could damage them. When in doubt if a sensor is
mechanically damaged, look at the end of it with the strong magnifying glass
to see any damage. If it is damaged, it needs to be replaced. A
magnetic pickup coil can be tested with a digital multimeter set on 200m
DC, with the negative lead of the meter on the white wire of the pickup coil
and positive lead on the black wire, then pass a small steel screw or bolt
over the end of the magnetic pickup coil. If the meter shows a reading, the
pickup coil is in good condition.
Engines can't start under full compression and with advanced ignition timing. One or the other must be "suppressed" in order for the engine to crank over without "kicking back" to start. Either it needs to have an automatic compression release to relieve about half the compression, then the compression will return to full upon start up, or the timing needs to be positioned at TDC, then it can automatically advance upon start up.
The only reason any engine would need the ignition timing retarded or a spark advance system is so the engine won't "kick back" when attempting to start it. "Kick back" occurs when the crankshaft/flywheel suddenly and quickly momentarily rotates in the opposite direction, which is could bend or break the starter armature shaft or the aluminum starter housing. Virtually all small gas engines nowadays have a compression relief mechanism on the camshaft (that opens the exhaust valve slightly halfway on the compression stroke), which allows the engine to crank over easily without kicking back. And most pulling engines have a long duration camshaft with the compression relief mechanism (if using a cast cam) and a heavier-than-stock [steel] flywheel. Which will also allow the engine to crank over easily without kicking back when starting. So you see, a spark advance really isn't necessary. To start any engine with advanced timing and under full compression (no automatic compression release), first crank the engine over, and while it's cranking over, choke the carburetor or use my remote fuel primer system (which is much easier to use), then turn on the toggle/flip switch or [security] key switch to "put the spark to the engine." The engine should start easily every time. The spinning centrifugal force of the flywheel prevents the engine from "kicking back" when power is supplied to the ignition.
Magnetic pickup coils and proximity
sensors are very sensitive to mechanical damage (and electrical damage if
connected wrong). For magnetic pickup coils,
set the air gap/clearance from the detectable target (screw, pin or small
raised area on the rotating disc) at .010"-.060" with a brass, plastic, business
card, poster board, stainless steel (anything non-magnetic) feeler gauge.
And being 3-wire inductive proximity sensors have
a farther detection range, set the air gap/clearance at .010"-.188". If the
gap is wider than .188" (3/16") with either sensor, the ignition system may
not produce a spark or the engine could misfire at higher RPM. To prevent
the possibility of out of time spark occurrence, the detectable target needs
to be a minimum of 3/16" higher than or above the circumference surface of
the steel or cast iron rotating disc or flywheel. Direct metal contact with
either sensor could damage them. When in doubt if a sensor is
mechanically damaged, look at the end of it with the strong magnifying glass
to see any damage. If it is damaged, it needs to be replaced. A
magnetic pickup coil can be tested with a digital multimeter set on 200m
DC, with the negative lead of the meter on the white wire of the pickup coil
and positive lead on the black wire, then pass a small steel screw or bolt
over the end of the magnetic pickup coil. If the meter shows a reading, the
pickup coil is in good condition.
GM 4-Pin HEI Electronic Ignition Control Module Wiring Connections/Diagram with a Magnetic Pickup Coil
This electronic ignition system operates with 12 volts DC of power. It is recommended only for ordinary lawn & garden equipment. In order for the engine to rev up to full RPM, the magnetic pickup coil requires a high-output/performance 4-pin GM HEI module, 1.0 ohm ignition coil, metal conductor spark plug wire and a non-resistor/copper core spark plug gapped at .025". IMPORTANT - The coil and/or module may burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system. (This system does NOT have a built-in timing retard.)
GM 4-pin HEI Electronic Ignition Control Module Wiring Connections/Diagram with the Cube-Shaped 3-Wire Inductive Proximity Sensor
This electronic ignition system
operates with 12 volts DC of power. This is a high performance ignition system
that produce a stable and very strong spark, even with a stock ignition coil,
allowing the engine to start quick, idle smoothly and rev up to full RPM
with no hesitation or misfire to produce more power. In order for the
ordinary/stock GM 4-pin HEI module allow the engine to rev up to full speed,
it must be used with a high-output cube-shaped 3-wire inductive proximity
sensor, and can be used with virtually any ignition coil, regardless
of the ohms resistance or voltage output, and best to use a metal core conductor
spark plug wire and non-resister type spark plug gapped at .035". This concept
revolutionizes the use of this small, compact and versatile module! This
is a thoroughly tested, researched and proven reliable ignition system invented
by Brian Miller for ordinary lawn & garden engines and competition pulling
engines. The systems below can be used with virtually any ignition coil with
a minimum 0.4 ohm internal resister, and best to use a metal core conductor
spark plug wire and non-resister type spark plug gapped at .035" for a strong
spark.
IMPORTANT
- The coil, sensor and/or module may burn up if the ignition switch is left
on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this
from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch
and/or a master disconnect switch with a
removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition
system. (This system does NOT have a built-in timing retard.)
Chrysler / Dodge / Plymouth Electronic Ignition Control Module/Unit Wiring Connections/Diagram with a Magnetic Pickup Coil
This electronic ignition system operates with 12 volts DC of power. This module requires a minimum 1.2 ohm ballast resistor to prevent from burning up unit. This is a high performance ignition system that produce a stable and very strong spark, even with a stock ignition coil, allowing the engine to start quick, idle smoothly and rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or misfire to produce more power. Can be used with virtually any magnetic pickup coil or proximity sensor and ignition coil, regardless of the ohms resistance or voltage output , and best to use a metal core conductor spark plug wire and non-resister type spark plug gapped at .035". IMPORTANT - The coil and/or module may burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system. (This system does NOT have a built-in timing retard.)
Chrysler / Dodge / Plymouth Electronic Ignition Control Module /Unit Wiring Connections/Diagram with a 3-Wire Inductive or Hall Effect Proximity Sensor
This electronic ignition system operates with 12 volts DC of power. This module requires a minimum 1.2 ohm ballast resistor to prevent from burning up unit. This is a high performance ignition system that produce a stable and very strong spark, even with a stock ignition coil, allowing the engine to start quick, idle smoothly and rev up to full speed. Can be used with virtually any magnetic pickup coil or proximity sensor and ignition coil, regardless of the ohms resistance or voltage output , and best to use a metal core conductor spark plug wire and non-resister type spark plug gapped at .035". IMPORTANT - The coil, sensor and/or module may burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system. (This system does NOT have a built-in timing retard.)
Ford / Mercury / Lincoln Electronic Ignition Control Module/Unit Wiring Connections/Diagram with a Magnetic Pickup Coil
This electronic ignition system operates with 12 volts DC of power. This is a high performance ignition system that produce a stable and very strong spark, even with a stock ignition coil, allowing the engine to start quick, idle smoothly and rev up to full speed. Can be used with virtually any magnetic pickup coil or proximity sensor and ignition coil, regardless of the ohms resistance or voltage output , and best to use a metal core conductor spark plug wire and non-resister type spark plug gapped at .035". IMPORTANT - The coil and/or module may burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system. (This system does NOT have a built-in timing retard.)
Ford / Mercury / Lincoln Electronic Ignition Control Module/Unit Wiring Connections/Diagram with a 3-Wire Inductive or Hall Effect Proximity Sensor
This electronic ignition system operates with 12 volts DC of power. This is a high performance ignition system that produce a stable and very strong spark, even with a stock ignition coil, allowing the engine to start quick, idle smoothly and rev up to full speed. Can be used with virtually any magnetic pickup coil or proximity sensor and ignition coil, regardless of the ohms resistance or voltage output, and will produce a strong spark so the engine will allow the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly, rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or misfire and it'll produce more power. This system can be used with virtually any ignition coil with a minimum 0.4 ohm internal resister, and best to use a metal core conductor spark plug wire and non-resister type spark plug gapped at .035" for a strong spark. IMPORTANT - The coil, sensor and/or module may burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system. (This system does NOT have a built-in timing retard.)
Crank- or Flywheel-Trigger Ignition Will Work on Virtually Any Single- or Multi-Cylinder Gas Spark-Ignited Engine.
Degree Increments for a Super Spacer or Rotary Table with a Self-Centering
3-Jaw Chuck -
The chart below is for installing multiple detectable trigger targets (screws,
pins or magnets) in the ignition disc for a
crank- or flywheel-trigger ignition system.
This chart also comes in handy for drilling multiple holes of equal spacing
in axle flanges and other things. NOTE: The degrees shown
is not for the spark to occur at 0º TDC for each cylinder. They are
the locations of the spark for each cylinder so they will have equal timing
or exact distance of spark between them. And the reason 7 holes is not shown
is because 360º cannot be easily divided equally into 7 spaces.
Number of holes to be drilled -> | 1st | 2nd | 3rd | 4th | 5th | 6th | 7th | 8th | 9th |
For a 2 cylinder engine or 2 holes -> | 0º | 180º | |||||||
For a 3 cylinder engine or 3 holes -> | 0º | 120º | 240º | ||||||
For a 4 cylinder engine or 4 holes -> | 0º | 90º | 180º | 270º | |||||
For 5 holes -> | 0º | 72º | 144º | 216º | 288º | ||||
For a 6 cylinder engine or 6 holes -> | 0º | 60º | 120º | 180º | 240º | 300º | |||
For an 8 cylinder engine or 8 holes -> | 0º | 45º | 90º | 135º | 180º | 225º | 270º | 315º | |
For 9 holes -> | 0º | 40º | 80º | 120º | 160º | 200º | 240º | 280º | 320º |
For a multi-cylinder engine, when each detectable trigger target (screw, pin or magnet) is equally spaced apart in the ignition disc and the timing for each target is precisely aligned when its piston is at whatever degrees BTDC it's supposed be, they will fire at whatever degrees BTDC for that piston. It wouldn't matter if a screw creates a spark when the piston that isn't aligned with it or near TDC because there wouldn't be any compression at the position. It'll be a multiple, but wasted spark. This is why MSD (MSD Performance) stands for Multiple Spark Discharge. Also, being the timing will be in the advanced setting at all times with no retard (and no automatic compression release), two switches will be required to start the engine. One being a momentary push button switch to crank the engine, and the other an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or [security] key switch to power the ignition. To start the engine, first crank it over, and while it's cranking, choke the carburetor (or use my remote fuel primer system, which works much better and is easier to use), and then "put the spark to the engine" by turning on the toggle/flip switch or [security] key switch. The engine should start easily and quickly every time. This works because the spinning centrifugal force of the heavy flywheel prevents the engine from "kicking back" when power is first supplied to the ignition. If the engine has an automatic compression release, this will not need to be done.
When using a magnetic pickup coil or a Normally Open 3-wire inductive proximity sensor for a multi-cylinder engine, a steel sprocket can be used as the trigger disc. The pickup coil or sensor will detect the [raised] sprocket teeth as the triggering objects. And being sprocket teeth are equally spaced apart, they're already degreed in. Use an even number teeth sprocket for an even numbered spark engine, and an odd number teeth sprocket for an odd numbered spark engine. Just grind away the teeth between the ones that needs to make the spark for each cylinder. But be sure to grind away the metal so the disc will maintain perfect balance.
Crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger ignition
will spark on the compression stroke for each piston when used on a multiple
cylinder engine. It'll also work excellent on any 2-cycle engine, because
it fires on every stroke of the piston. On a twin or two cylinder engine,
use just one Chrysler or Ford electronic ignition control module/unit (ICU),
one magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire
inductive proximity sensor, one detectable target (screw or pin)
in the ignition disc located at approximately 20º BTDC on the compression
for the #1 cylinder. It'll spark for the #2 cylinder at 20º BTDC on
the compression stroke, too. And you could install two standard-output/stock
automotive ignition coils, one for each cylinder. Wire them together as you
would for one coil. As the detectable target (screw or pin) pass the pickup
coil, a spark will be produced for each cylinder, one piston being on the
compression stroke and the other on the exhaust stroke and vice-versa. It'll
work identically the same as Briggs & Stratton's Magnetron™ ignition
on their twin cylinder flathead (valves in block) engines. Because the flathead
Briggs twins use a single ignition coil. By the way, the stock timing on
Briggs engines for gas is set at 11º BTDC.
To advance the
timing for methanol fuel, a special-made 3/16" square
offset flywheel key must be used. Offset flywheel keys
are originally made for racing go-karts and Junior Dragsters with the 5hp
Briggs & Stratton engine. They come in 2º, 4º, 6º and
8º increments. Do a Google search for an
offset flywheel key. Use the 6º key for a setting
of 17º BTDC (11º + 6º = 17º).
For a Kohler Magnum or any other make of engine with fixed solid state electronic ignition, to advance the ignition timing when burning either E-85 or methanol fuel, either an offset flywheel key will need to be installed, or a new keyway will need to be broached in the flywheel taper a several degrees advanced from the original keyway. A special-made offset woodruff flywheel key will need to be used when advancing the ignition timing on a Kohler Magnum engine. Precise calculation will need to be made to determine the amount of offset in the key, or where the new keyway should be. If cutting a new keyway, the original keyway will need to be filled-in with either bronze brazing or steel stock the same width as the keyway silver-soldered in place to prevent the metal from breaking next to the original keyway when broaching the new keyway slot.
If installed correctly, nothing could possibly go wrong with the crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition system. Mainly because everything is totally sealed. There's no moving parts to wear and it could very well outlast the life of a typical tractor, even when used in high performance conditions! It's virtually maintenance free, extremely reliable. That's why auto manufacturers, virtually all small engine manufacturers (Kohler's Magnum engines ignition system operates much like crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger ignition) and most high performance/racing vehicles nowadays use electronic [or better yet, computerized] ignition. Plus it's something fancy to show off. It's powered by full 12 volts and features a more stable spark than the convention point ignition. You can also use your existing standard ignition coil. And remember, a high-output/performance ignition coil will draw more power from the battery.
crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger ignition will work on virtually any small engine, but only if there's room on the crankshaft (preferably the PTO end, which is opposite the flywheel end) for mounting of the rotating disc that contains the detectable target (screw, pin, magnet, or small raised area on the rotating disc) (see below Ê). The detector/trigger screw(s) or small magnet can also be fastened onto the factory flywheel. Be sure to allow the head of [each] screw extend approximately 1/8" above the outer edge of the flywheel to prevent an out of time spark occurrence. And when mounting the magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor, make sure it's mounted rigid and stable to prevent erratic timing fluctuations.
On a single cylinder engine, this type of ignition will produce a spark on both the compression and exhaust strokes, which is harmless. Camshaft driven point ignitions only spark during the compression stroke. By the way, Kohler engine is mentioned here only as an example, because they're most common in garden tractor pulling.
The crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition system is nothing to be afraid of. Once you understand how it works, it's actually quite simple and you'd feel more confident using it. Also, once you've tried this type of ignition, you'd be reluctant to go back to ignition points. If the crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger ignition is installed correctly on an engine and the timing is set right, it'll bring a pulling tractor to life and help it scream down the track! But if an engine already have a factory-installed solid state electronic ignition that is triggered by the flywheel, you really don't need crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger ignition. Factory-installed flywheel-trigger ignitions are very stable, reliable and they produce a strong spark. But if you're installing a machined steel flywheel with no detector/trigger magnets or pins on an engine that originally came with solid state electronic ignition and/or there's no provisions (no threaded bolt holes present) on the block to install ignition points, you will need the crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition system.
To simplify degreeing the ignition disc, after finding true 0º TDC on
the disc, use a 6" protractor to make timing degree marks on the disc. Refer
to the animated drawing to the right for identification. Hold the protractor
on the disc, align the 0º TDC mark on the disc with the zero on the
protractor, and then, facing the disc as if it were mounted on the PTO end
of the engine, and with the
magnetic pickup coil
or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor mounted either above
the disc or on the side of the engine block, make the marks on the disc going
counterclockwise of the TDC mark. Going
counterclockwise
of the 0º TDC mark
would be advancing the ignition timing, and clockwise
of the 0º TDC mark would be retarding
it. Degree it as shown in the drawing to the left. But make sure that the
marks on the disc are according to how the disc is going to be mounted on
the crankshaft, with the center protruding hub facing toward the engine or
away from it. Otherwise, the marks could be on the wrong side of the disc.
(Most of the time, the protruding part of the hub face away from the engine.)
The ignition disc doesn't have to be made of aluminum. If there's a steel hub or disc mounted on the end of the crankshaft, it could be used to trigger the ignition. As long as the head(s) of the detectable target(s) is/are higher than the outer edge of the [steel] hub, the magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor will detect it/them and not the hub or disc.
NOTE: The detectable target (screw or pin) can be located anywhere in the
ignition disc, as long as it's positioned 20º BTDC. Find the true 0º
TDC on the disc, then locate the 20º BTDC position from there. On an
engine that runs clockwise when facing the front of the engine (flywheel
or harmonic balancer), with the disc on the PTO end of the crank, and when
facing the PTO end, the 20º position will be counterclockwise
from the 0º TDC mark. On flywheel end,
the 20º BTDC position is clockwise
from 0º TDC.
Use a Sprocket as an Ignition Disc -
If you don't have a capabilities to machine your own ignition disc, then using a steel sprocket with all but one tooth removed should work excellent. Just make sure the sprocket is perfectly round and balanced so the engine won't vibrate. Use a Weld-A-Sprocket hub or some type of hub to securely fasten the sprocket disc to for correct alignment of the ignition timing. And as long as the single tooth is extended a minimum of 3/16" higher than or above the rest of the disc, and the disc is not oblong or egg-shaped, the sensor should detect it instead of the disc. And as for the diameter of the disc, for most engines, a 6" diameter disc works well. But just to make sure for any particular engine, figure where the sensor will be mounted and then measure out from the center of the crankshaft to the end of the sensor.
Set the ignition timing according
to piston travel in the cylinder, as
mentioned earlier in this website. Install a timing degree indicator
mark (with a black felt tip ink marker) on the disc and a mark on the engine
block, then make a final check of the ignition timing with the engine running
using an inductive strobe timing light. The timing light connects to the
battery posts and spark plug wire.
How It Works:
The magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor is able to detect the presence of the detectable target (screw, pin, small magnet, or small raised area on the rotating disc) without any physical contact. Each time the detectable target in the rotating disc passes the magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor, this generates a small electrical current within the pickup coil or sensor. This current is sent in the form of a signal to the electronic ignition control module/unit (ICU); within, a transistor opens the primary circuit in the ignition coil and the spark occurs. All this happens at the speed of electricity, which can be anywhere from about 50% to 99% of the speed of light, depending upon the quality of the electronic components and wiring connections. Each module provides unlimited RPM. The conventional ignition points and condenser/capacitor ignition system is less responsive. When wired correctly, it's normal for the flywheel- and crank-trigger ignition systems to make a spark when first powered up. And if it makes a spark as the sensor passes the metal target object, then the ignition system is working as it should.
Checking for Spark -
Because this system produce a spark at very low cranking speeds,
once installed, you can check for spark simply by rotating the crankshaft
(rotating disc) back and forth by hand so the steel detectable target (screw,
pin, small magnet, or small raised area on the rotating disc) pass the
magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire inductive
proximity sensor. But turn the ignition switch on first. Also,
after the engine is ran, and because there may be some raw fuel remaining
in the combustion chamber, crank-trigger
and flywheel-trigger ignition will produce a single spark each time the
ignition switch is turned on. Sometimes this spark will make the engine go
"POOF", which is harmless in most cases.
How to Test if a GM 4-pin HEI, Chrysler (w/ballast resistor) or Ford Electronic Ignition Control Module/Unit is Functioning or Not -
To test if a GM 4-pin HEI, Chrysler
(w/ballast resistor) or Ford electronic ignition control module is functioning
or not, connect a fully charged 1.5 volt [flashlight] battery to the two
terminals on the module that connects to the
magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire inductive
proximity sensor (being there's no polarity in these modules,
it doesn't matter which of the two terminals is connected to the battery,
but disconnect the pickup coil first!) and connect the other terminals/wires
on the module as shown in the diagrams above. With the battery connected,
a constant, continuous array of sparks should result at the spark plug's
tip. Don't connect the battery to the magnetic pickup coil! It'll burn
it up! This test proves only if the module is functioning or not. It
won't show if it's in good working condition. (FYI - The continuous spark
would come in handy as a temporary or replacement pilot light, such as to
ignite a burner in a gas stove/heater or
forced air heater when the factory igniter unit has failed.)
And don't use a 12 volt automotive portable battery charger alone to supply
the power to check for spark or test a module. If a battery charger is used,
the crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic
ignition system may produce a constant, continuous array of sparks at
the spark plug's tip even when the
magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire inductive
proximity sensor (or 1.5 volt battery) isn't connected. Battery
chargers constantly switch between high to low voltage at 60 cycles per second.
The crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger
ignition module sees this as the ignition being switched on and off,
resulting in the constant, continuous array of sparks described above. Therefore,
only a fully charged 12 volt battery should be used for testing.
How to Check for Spark with the GM 4-pin HEI, Chrysler (w/ballast resistor) or Ford Modules -
After either ignition system is installed on the engine and power is supplied, simply rotate the flywheel, pulley, etc., containing the detectable target (screw, pin, small magnet, or small raised area on the rotating disc) on the crankshaft back and forth by hand. Each time the screw passes the sensor, spark should occur. NOTE: Do not use a battery charger alone to perform this test. Battery chargers constantly switch between high and low voltage at 60 cycles per second, and the module sees this as the ignition being switched on and off resulting in a continuous, constant array of sparks. By the way - I have not received any complaints from our customers or the readers of this website concerning the crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger ignition about their engine(s) running erratic or misfiring at high RPM, unless of course, the sensor has too much clearance or they installed a defective module.
A simple and precise way to set the ignition timing STATICALLY (engine not running) for either sensor/module -
How to accurately set the ignition timing STATICALLY (engine not running) for the GM 4-pin HEI, Chrysler (w/ballast resistor) or Ford modules - (This is also how to test if the module is functioning or not.)
How to precisely set the ignition timing DYNAMICALLY (engine running) with an automotive inductive timing light for the GM 4-pin HEI, Chrysler (w/ballast resistor) or Ford modules. (This is the most accurate way to set the timing.) NOTE: Timing can be checked, but not set while the engine is running!
Advertisement:
If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed
in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501
W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO
(Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | ![]() ![]() |
Get That
Old, Antique Small Engine Running Again with 21st Century
Technology Using 100% Reliable Digital Electronic Ignition, Even When New
Placement Parts Are Obsolete or Cost-Prohibited!
Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any
of these parts or services. [Return
to previous paragraph, section or website] [Top of Page]
This is the era of modern wonders, where everything is transistorized, digitized and miniaturized. Yet even today, many garden tractor pullers still use breaker point ignitions on their garden pulling tractors, even when electronic ignition is allowed in the rules for their particular class of tractor. For other people, the frustration of attempting to keep a breaker point-fired tractor in peak running condition has been enough of a reason to join the electronic era. Breaker point systems do have some positives, though. Compared to electronic ignition components, points are cheap and somewhat easy to install. And many people are comfortable with installing their own points. The bad side of using points is, besides the points contacts burning, pitting and wearing out, if the hinge/pivot pin hole in the points wears, if or when the point gap gets too narrow, the ignition timing can get retarded, and when it gets too wide, the timing will become too advanced.
When the timing is retarded, the engine may be difficult to start, and when does start, it may not idle well, and it'll lack sufficient power. Also, with retarded timing, all of the fuel in the combustion chamber will not be burned. Some raw fuel will exit out of the exhaust, while the rest will remain in the chamber combustion and cling to the cylinder wall, causing the lubricating oil (from the crankcase) to become diluted. When this happens, "cylinder wash down" will result. Cylinder wash down is when the gas dilutes the thin coating of oil on the cylinder wall, and the piston rings will no longer be adequately lubricated and cooled (by the oil), causing them to wear excessively, eventually resulting in a smoky engine. FYI - Cylinder wash down can also happen with a diesel engine when the fuel injectors are "turned up" for increased fuel delivery so the engine will produce more power. The increase in fuel will also blow a lot more black smoke out the exhaust.
But when the ignition timing is too advanced, this will cause the engine to operate too hot, which will likely cause the piston to swell more than normal, allowing it to make metal to metal contact against the cylinder wall, which will cause excessive wear to the piston and possibly the cylinder wall. (The moving part always wears more than the stationary part that it makes contact with.) And the rings will lose their expansion pressure against the cylinder wall as well. Eventually, due to the lose-fitting piston in the cylinder and excessive ring gaps, the engine will create a rattling sound and blow blue-colored smoke out the exhaust and possibly out of the crankcase breather, and the engine will ultimately need to be rebuilt.
If installed correctly, when the ignition is triggered by the flywheel, this stabilizes the ignition timing, so you won't ever have to worry about it changing. The engine will produce more power and you will have more confidence that your [high dollar] engine will last longer. So for the utmost precision ignition timing and maintenance-free convenience, flywheel-trigger electronic ignition is the way to go! This ignition system produce a very strong spark. It will allow the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly, rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or misfire and it'll produce more power.
Tired of changing or constantly adjusting the ignition points? Convert to the 100% digitized flywheel-trigger electronic ignition! For improved performance, easier starting, and less moving parts to leave your tractor dead on the track. Shock and moisture resistant, and all it takes is a few simple hand tools to install. In my opinion, getting rid of the points and condenser/capacitor has been the best advance ever in engine technology.
FYI - Kohler's Breakerless Ignition and Tecumseh's (cast iron engine) Solid State Ignition (SSI) systems use a key switch that's also made for a self-energizing magneto or magneto-type solid state ignition system. Unlike the key switch for a battery-powered ignition system, the Breakerless Ignition is self-energizing, and to kill the engine, the key switch grounds out or shorts the [low voltage] circuit between the energizing coil and ignition module. And the battery-powered key switch opens the circuit to kill the engine. So with the battery-powered points and condenser ignition system (along with a 12 volt coil), you will need to use a battery-powered key switch, or an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or [security] key switch to power the ignition and a momentary push button switch to crank the engine could be used instead. If swapping out the OEM Breakerless Ignition, SSI, magneto or solid state ignition key switch for a battery-powered ignition key switch, the wire connectors in the wiring harness plug will need to be rearranged to match the terminals on the key switch to power the ignition, crank the engine and run other electrical accessories. I've done this before on some of my customer's garden tractors and it works great. Click or tap here for battery-powered ignition wiring diagrams.
FYI - I've designed and sold many various custom electronic ignition systems to customers for the past several years and haven't received one complaint about the performance of their engine. Because I use technology that I learned from experiences with my competitive competition pulling tractors (engines) to help factory stock lawn & garden engines perform better. And as a matter of fact, other people have emailed or called me to complain to me about my competitor's replacement electronic ignition systems for Tecumseh engines. They said their technical assistance to resolve the problem was of no help. No joke. Apparently, my competitors haven't quite figured it out yet.
The Universal Solid State Electronic Ignition Module | Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any of these parts or services. | [Top of Page]
Replace Old-Fashioned, Out-Dated and Troublesome Points and Condenser
in Virtually Any Magneto Ignition System with the Universal Solid State
Electronic Ignition Module!
Wiring Diagram and Installation Instructions for Universal Solid State Electronic Magneto Ignition Module are as follows:
|
NOTE: The alternative to using either
of the items below is to remove the ignition points and points pushrod, and
place the pushrod on a hard, flat surface, and use a hammer and sharp flat
cold chisel to lightly create knurled raised marks midway on the pushrod.
Then reinstall the pushrod in the engine block with the hammer. The knurling
will retain the pushrod in the hole.
Block-Off Plate to Cover Kohler Points Pushrod Hole. Use in Kohler
engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361,
KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582 when converting
from magneto to solid state ignition (above), Magnum solid state ignition,
or flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic
ignition (further down in this website). Made of 1/8" thickness aluminum
or steel. Apply RTV silicone sealant to prevent oil leak and use OEM ignition
points mounting screws to secure in place. A-1 Miller's part. An ingenious
and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat
products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.)
|
Convert the Points/Condenser Ignition System on a Kohler Engine
with an 8" Flywheel and Starter/Generator to a Maintenance-Free
Flywheel-Triggered Electronic Ignition System -
Kit includes: New hall effect PerTronix Ignitor sensor/module, aluminum spacer, thermal grease and mounting screws, small ring magnet/rubber cushioning/isolator washer/mounting screw (weighs 1/10 oz. / 6 grams), and plug for the points pushrod hole. Complete Kit: $96.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Directions to Install This Kit -
|
|
If a Kohler flywheel has no projection (hump) or OEM protruding bolt head for Breakerless Ignition, but does have a 3/4" wide area between the fins and ring gear (as shown in the pictures above È), or a billet steel flywheel, to use a magnetic pickup coil, 3-wire inductive (detects iron/steel) proximity sensor, a small, short steel Phillips or button head socket (Allen) Head screw and a minimum 1/4" length aluminum spacer secured with a split lock washer or high strength liquid threadlocker (Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent) can be used as the signal detection for the flywheel-trigger electronic ignition. A steel dowel pin or knurled steel pin could be used instead of a screw or spiral pin, but because of exerted centrifugal force, the screw would be more secure due to its thread retention. FYI - Store a container of liquid threadlocker or Super Glue upright and not laying flat. The capped tip will not dry out and clog when stored upright.
The curvature or dome shaped heads of button- and Phillips-head screws makes them ideal for use on a trigger disc or flywheel. Spark occurs at the leading (high side) edge of the hump or screw, and not in the center of the hump or screw. When the magnetic pickup coil or cube-shaped proximity sensor is at the leading edge of the hump and when the S mark on the flywheel is aligned with the raised mark on the bearing plate, it is at this point the timing is at 20º BTDC. But if the flywheel has the 3/4" wide area, but no projection or hump", with the magnetic pickup coil or cube-shaped proximity sensor installed on the bearing plate and the 20º BTDC mark on the flywheel aligned with the raised mark on the bearing plate.
When using an inductive proximity sensor, being proximity sensors detect a farther distance (up to 3/16") than a magnetic pickup coil, install a 3/4" length steel screw with a 1/4" length aluminum spacer (to retain flywheel balance). This will extend the detectable target 1/4" above the surface of the flywheel to prevent an out of time spark occurrence by part of the flywheel itself. Or if using a non-magnetic pickup coil, 3-wire hall effect proximity sensor or a non-magnetic PerTronix Ignitor sensor/module, a small ring magnet fastened by a small screw can be used to create a rotating magnet detection target. The head of the screw will become magnetized.
An 8-32 UNC (coarse thread) and 10-32 UNF (fine thread) x 1/2" length screws with a split lock washer (and small magnet) only weighs about 1/10 of an ounce or 3 grams, so this will not make the flywheel significantly noticeably or dangerously out of balance. But if you're concerned about the flywheel being out of balance with the target screw/bolt, pin or screw w/ring magnet installed, the flywheel can be static balanced by weighing the flywheel and screw/bolt, pin or screw w/ring magnet separately on a precision scale, make a note of the exact weight of each item, and either install a stainless steel screw of the same exact weight as the trigger screw and magnet on the opposite side of the flywheel (180º apart), or drill a couple of shallow holes into the flywheel next to or beside the installed target screw/bolt, pin or screw w/ring magnet to put the flywheel back in balance. Make sure the flywheel is perfectly clean of dirt and debris, too. Actually, it's best to have the flywheel with the target screw/bolt, pin or screw w/ring magnet installed dynamically precision spin-balanced on a automotive balancing machine. Again, make sure the flywheel is perfectly clean of dirt and debris.
And for the ignition timing to be set at 20º BTDC, with the
S mark on the flywheel and raised line on the bearing plate
aligned, the screw will need to be located at 2-3/8" when using a magnetic
pickup coil or proximity sensor. This setup can be adapted to a Kohler engine
with the flywheel that has the starter/generator and gear starter alike.
Or it can be applied to an engine with a steel flywheel for competition pulling.
And the mounting holes in the angled bracket for the magnetic pickup coil
can be elongated for precise adjustment/setting of the timing.
If there's already a projection (hump) or
OEM protruding bolt head on the flywheel, then there's no need to modify
the flywheel for this conversion or upgrade. If they're not already present,
new 10-24 UNC (coarse thread) threads will need to be
drilled
and tapped in the two raised bosses
in the bearing plate to mount the bracket for the sensor's bracket.
An original, ingenious, thoroughly researched and innovative concept invented
by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this for use on a small engine.
Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate
them acknowledging my intelligence.)
Information About Converting from Kohler's Breakerless Ignition to
Battery-Powered Points/Condenser Ignition:
The single wire that comes from the stator under
the flywheel for the Kohler Trigger Module or Tecumseh Solid State Ignition
Module generates about 250 volts (serious) while the engine is running at
full governed speed. Do not touch this terminal with one bare hand and the
engine with your other hand while the engine is running! It is not needed
for any of my custom-made crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition
systems. So snip off this wire or tape up the terminal securely to prevent
a short circuit or risk of electrocution. And there is a tiny
brass cup/expansion plug in the points pushrod hole. This plug will need
to be removed for the points pushrod. To remove this plug, carefully and
gently drill a 3/32" pilot hole through the plug, then use a #6
self-tapping drywall screw (a small
ordinary self-tapping screw may not work as well)
with Vise-Grips a small
crowbar or
pry bar to pull the plug out of the hole. Because the
self-tapping drywall screw by itself may not be able to bore a hole through
the plug without pushing it deeper into the drilled hole. And do not force
the drill bit into the plug or it could fall inside the crankcase! And a
3/16" drill bit or hand reamer may need to be used to clean out any debris
from the pushrod hole. After the points is installed, and with the piston
positioned at TDC on the compression stroke, set the point gap at .020".
Or better yet, set the ignition timing at 20º BTDC,
and reuse the same type of spark plug gapped at .035".
![]() ![]() Option #1 - Complete Kit to Convert from [a failed] OEM Kohler Breakerless Ignition to the More Reliable A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition System. Designed for Kohler engine models K181, K241, K301 and K321 that originally came with Breakerless Ignition, because these have the "hump" or projection on the edge of the flywheel. This ignition system works flawlessly and may outlast the life of the engine. This ignition system requires 12 volts DC of power. This is a high performance ignition system that produce a stable and very strong spark, even with a stock ignition coil, allowing the engine to start quick, idle smoothly and rev up to full speed. It will allow the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly, rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or misfire and produce more power. This ignition system may outlast the life of the engine. This revolutionizes the ignition system for older cast iron block Kohler engines! NOTE - The OEM key switch for Breakerless Ignition will not work with any battery-powered ignition systems. The switch used with Breakerless Ignition is actually a magneto ignition switch, which when the engine is shut-down, it grounds the self-energizing wire connected to the ignition system. And battery ignition requires a switch that disconnects the coil from the power source (battery). So with this ignition system, you will need either an OFF-ON-START battery-ignition key switch, or an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition) and a momentary push button switch (to crank the engine). Go here for choice of switches. To install this replacement ignition system; the ignition coil mounts in place of the Breakerless Ignition coil; the proximity cube sensor/bracket mounts in place of the Breakerless Trigger Module; and the GM HEI ignition control module with thermal paste (to dissipate the operating heat) can be fastened on the backside of the bearing plate, on the left side when facing the flywheel, or on an aluminum plate mounted elsewhere with plenty of cool, circulating air to dissipate the heat and cool the unit while in operation. Two 9/64" holes will need to be drilled and tapped to mount the module. (Sometimes one must improvise when certain parts are obsolete.) This kit has a limited one year warranty. This is a thoroughly researched and ingenious concept by Brian Miller. Click or tap here to print out wiring diagram and wiring connection instructions. Contact Brian Miller for installation tech support. List of Parts in Kit Include:
|
3/16" Plug to
Replace Kohler Points Pushrod. Use in Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141,
K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, K482, K532 and K582 when
converting from magneto to solid state ignition (above), Magnum solid state
ignition, flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic
ignition (further down in this website). Install with a medium size hammer;
fits very tight. OEM Briggs & Stratton part #'s 231143, 692882.
$6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Block-Off Plate to Cover Kohler Points Pushrod Hole. Use in Kohler
engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361,
KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582 when converting
from magneto to solid state ignition (above), Magnum solid state ignition,
or flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic
ignition (further down in this website). Made of 1/8" thickness aluminum
or steel. Apply RTV silicone sealant to prevent oil leak and use OEM ignition
points mounting screws to secure in place. A-1 Miller's part. An ingenious
and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat
products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.)
$4.00 each, plus shipping
& handling. [Return to previous
paragraph, section or website]
A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Replacement Electronic Ignition System for Cast Iron Block Tecumseh Engines
Replacement Tecumseh Electronic Ignition Kit with PerTronix Ignitor. (Fires off the short pin in the flywheel; remove the long pin. It will not be needed and will interfere with proper operation of the ignition system.) This ignition system requires 12 volts DC of power. Includes: new PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor and new high quality, compact high energy epoxy encapsulated 12volt ignition coil w/integrated metal spark plug wire, both fastened to an aluminum mounting plate, new Autolite 295 or Champion J8C spark plug, new momentary push-button switch (to crank the engine; optional) and new OFF-ON toggle/flip switch/flip switch or [security] key switch (to power the ignition; optional). Installation Instructions for Replacement Tecumseh Electronic Ignition System above:
(Posted 8/24/20) I've been receiving several emails and phone calls from people who purchased another type of custom-made electronic ignition system from another person online for their cast iron block Tecumseh engine. And if you're experiencing problems with this type of system, you will need to complain to the person you purchased it from. Because being I'm not familiar with another person's custom ignition system, the advice I give you to get your engine running right may not be 100% accurate. It'll be like a Chevrolet car dealer/repair shop trying to tell someone how to fix their Ford vehicle. FYI - I thoroughly test every custom electronic ignition system that I offer in my websites to sure they work flawlessly. - Brian Miller |
If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this
website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old
Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri)
65203-9136 USA | Phone:
1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice
message, please speak slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except
holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later.
(When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I
stutter.)
E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.
When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly
with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to
the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate our business to other property with a bigger and better
shop so we can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
A-1 Miller's Custom
Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit for Kohler opposed twin
cylinder engine models KT17 Series II and KT19 Series II. This ignition
system works flawlessly and may outlast the life of the engine. This ignition
system works flawlessly! Replaces points and condenser. Ignition points can
be removed and the points pushrod hole can be permanently plugged with a
short self-tapping 1/4" bolt, Allen set screw or
clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant. The ignition system
listed below works excellent with the OEM Kohler twin cylinder ignition coil
to produce a strong, reliable spark.
NOTE: Two bosses on the #1 cylinder
(right side when facing flywheel) must be
drilled and tapped
to accept 1/4-20 UNC x 1" mounting bolts (drill only 3/4" deep; do not drill
all the way through the cylinder wall!), and a specific location on the edge
of the flywheel must be
drilled and tapped
to accept the 6-32 UNC (coarse thread) detectable target screw or magnet
w/cushioning/isolator rubber washer and screw. The sensor is activated by
the South pole of the magnet, so do not remove the screw from the magnet!
Install screw in flywheel with
high strength liquid threadlocker
(Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent), and tighten
screw w/magnet just when the rubber washer begin to bulge. FYI
- Store a container of liquid threadlocker or Super Glue upright and not
laying flat. The capped tip will not dry out and clog when stored upright.
An original, ingenious and innovative concept design invention by Brian Miller.
These ignition systems will not work on the KT17 and KT19 first design engines
because there are no bosses on the cylinder(s) to drill for bolt holes to
mount the ignition bracket. However, the cylinder(s) off a KT17 Series II,
MV16, M18 and MV18 will work on a KT17 first design engine, and the cylinder(s)
off a KT19 Series II, M20 and MV20 engine will work on a KT19 first design
engine. The only difference between the KT17, KT17 Series II, MV16, M18 and
MV18 cylinders, and KT19, KT19 Series II, M20 and MV20 cylinders is the length
of the valves. I realize this would be a lot of work just to use electronic
ignition on a KT17 or KT19 first design engine, but this is the best way
of making it happen. Scroll down for more information.
Ignition Upgrade Kit for Kohler engine models KT17 Series II or KT19 Series II for General Yard & Garden Work, or Competition Pulling. This ignition system works flawlessly and may outlast the life of the engine. This ignition system operates off the flywheel end of the crankshaft. Use this on the KT17 Series II or KT19 Series II engines to replace the ignition points. This ignition system may outlast the life of the engine. This is a high performance ignition system that produce a stable and very strong spark, even with a stock ignition coil, allowing the engine to start quick, idle smoothly and rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or misfire to produce more power. To prevent burning up the PerTronix Ignitor module, it MUST be used with a coil having a minimum of 3.0 ohms resistance. This revolutionizes the ignition system for the opposed twin cylinder Kohler engines! Use this setup for durability instead of points and condenser. Use with the OEM off/ignition/start key switch and ignition coil. Simple two wire hook-up; RED wire on module/sensor connects to 12 volt ignition switch (battery positive (+) post), and BLACK wire on module/sensor connects to coil negative () terminal. Kit includes PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor w/mounting bracket and hardware, small magnet/screw/cushioning washer and a 1/4-28 UNF Allen set screw to plug the points pushrod hole. Use a 1/4-28 UNF hand tap to cut 1/4" deep threads in the points pushrod hole, apply 150± PSI air pressure in the oil fill tube to blow the metal cuttings out of the points pushrod hole while cutting the threads, then install the set screw. PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor is triggered by a small magnet fastened in a specific place on edge of flywheel. Use the OEM ignition coil with metal core spark plug wires and copper core spark plugs gapped at .025" each. FYI - The module is diode-protected, and will NOT burn up if the wires are connected in reverse with power supplied. But the module will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller because nobody else advertise this kind of ignition setup. Flywheel-Trigger Ignition Kit for Kohler engine models KT17 Series II or KT19 Series II. $175.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
Self-Contained
Ignition Upgrade Kit for Kohler Engine Models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19,
KT19 Series II, M18 and M20 Competition Pulling Engines Only. This ignition
system works flawlessly and may outlast the life of the engine. This ignition
system operates off the PTO end of the engine and is mainly for competition
pulling engines that have nothing on the PTO end of the crankshaft. The compact
high energy dual-spark plug wire ignition coil is fastened above the Dynatek
Dyna S module on a sturdy aluminum mounting plate; cleans up the engine
compartment. This is a high performance ignition system that produce a stable
and very strong spark, even with a stock ignition coil, allowing the engine
to start quick, idle smoothly and rev up to full speed. The Dynatek Dyna
S module/sensor is triggered by a small magnet embedded in an aluminum locking
set screw collar that's fastened on the crankshaft. Use this setup for durability
when the solid state ignition coil keeps failing for no apparent reason.
Simple one wire hook-up; RED wire on
module/sensor connects to 12 volt ignition switch (battery positive (+) post).
Kit includes: Dynatek Dyna S module/sensor and high energy dual wire epoxy
encapsulated ignition coil with two molded-in metal core conductor spark
plug wires and 90º spark plug terminals/boots fastened on aluminum mounting
plate, and small magnet embedded in an aluminum locking set screw collar,
and new battery ignition OFF-IGNITION-START key switch (do not reuse OEM
Magnum solid state ignition key switch with this system) or an OFF-ON toggle/flip
switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition)
and a momentary push button switch (to crank the engine) and fully insulated
male and female slip-on spade crimp-type wire connectors (to easily
connect/disconnect the ignition system to/from the power source). Remove
the OEM solid state ignition coil and aluminum bracket. They will serve no
purpose with this kit. Use with copper core spark plugs gapped at .030" each.
Please specify diameter of crankshaft PTO end for the locking collar when
ordering. FYI - The module is diode-protected, and will NOT burn up if the
wires are connected in reverse with power supplied.
But the
module will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few
minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening
and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a
master disconnect switch with a removable
key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition
system. Picture of this setup coming soon. An ingenious
and innovative concept by Brian Miller because nobody else advertise this
type of ignition system.
Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the parts or items in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Return to previous paragraph, section or website] [Top of Page]
Be Ahead of the
Competition with 21st Century Technology Using 100% Reliable Digital Electronic
Ignition! Please contact A-1 Miller's
if you're interested in any of these parts or services.
[Return to previous paragraph, section
or website] [Top of Page]
FYI - I can install a crank-trigger electronic ignition system and/or rewire your lawn & garden tractor, equipment or garden pulling tractor so all the electrical accessories will work and the engine will start quickly every time. I have the knowledge, skills, all the tools and parts necessary to perform a quality job. I've rewired many customer's lawn & garden tractor/equipment or garden pulling tractor with great results. If you're interested, my phone numbers, address and directions to my shop are above È. - Brian Miller
A new way to revolutionize the ignition system on virtually any small gas engine! Virtually trouble- and maintenance-free, and water-proof. These ignition modules/sensors is a small, lightweight, compact and completely self-contained electronic ignition system built with the latest state-of-the-art engineering with the use of microelectronics. Fits entirely on the PTO end of the engine block; no ignition box and additional wiring to clutter the engine compartment because the electronic ignition control module and pickup coil/sensor are contained in the same sealed casing. The Dynatek Dyna S sensor/module produce a very strong spark and will allow the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly, rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or misfire and it'll produce more power.
The Dynatek Dyna S sensor/module operates on 12-1/2 to 15 volts negative ground, and requires an ignition coil with a 3.0 ohm resistor. Using a coil with less than total of 3.0 ohms of primary resistance for a long period of time will cause the module to overheat and the engine may misfire until it cools down, or the sensor/module might fail prematurely. A metal conductor spark plug wire and non-resistor/copper core spark plug should be used. If the voltage drops below the minimum requirement for either sensor/module, the engine may idle well, but not rev up, or the engine may run erratic. Either module/sensor can be used with a standard-output/stock or high-output/performance ignition coil, as long as the coil has a 3.0 ohm internal primary resistor, or a ballast resistor is connected that totals 3.0 ohms of resistance.
These crank-trigger ignition setups have been thoroughly tested and proven very reliable for general lawn & garden use, and all classes of single and twin cylinder competition pulling engines. One sensor/module is needed for an opposed twin cylinder engine, and two modules/sensors spaced exactly at 90º apart is required for V-twin engines. These are the same ignition used by professional pullers everywhere. Reliable at high RPMs, the Dynatek Dyna S module provides unlimited RPM. They allow the ignition system to operate at the speed of electricity, which can be anywhere from about 50% to 99% of the speed of light, depending upon the quality of the electronic components and wiring connections.
Spark occurs when a small magnet embedded in an aluminum locking set screw collar, which is much like an automotive reluctor ring, that's fastened on the crankshaft's PTO end passes the sensor/module. These sensors/modules packs a lot of punch and allows the ignition system operate at 100% efficiency for a stronger spark. When wired correctly, it's normal for the flywheel- and crank-trigger ignition systems to make a spark when first powered up. And if it makes a spark as the sensor passes the metal target object, then the ignition system is working as it should.
Dynatek Dyna S Crank-Trigger Ignition Installation Instructions -
Our universal flat mounting plate can be adapted for use on various makes and models of one or two cylinder (twin opposing cylinders) engines by drilling new mounting holes. And being there are so many different bolt patterns on the PTO end of Kohler and other makes and models of engines, these are not a simple "one kit fits all" bolt-on ignition kit. Therefore, customer will need to locate and drill holes in the mounting plate in alignment with the bolt holes on the PTO end of the engine block. If there are no bolt hole(s) on the PTO end of the block, they will need to be drilled and tapped. Minimum of 1/4" bolts can be used. Locate and drill (machine) slotted adjustment holes in the mounting plate, fasten plate to PTO end of engine block. And then drill and cut 4-40 UNC (coarse thread) threads in the mounting plate for positioning/clearance of the sensor/module clearance to the locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet. Additional spacing of modules/sensor may be required so magnet will be aligned with the center of the sensor on various applications. The air gap/clearance between the sensor/module and locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet is .010"-.050". Sensor/module may not operate or engine may misfire if gap is wider than .060". When mounting the GM 4-pin HEI module, always fasten it with thermal paste (to dissipate the operating heat) on a clean, flat aluminum plate with plenty of cool, circulating air to dissipate the heat while in operation. NOTE: Do not allow sensor/module to make contact with locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet while engine is running! Click HERE for Custom electronic ignition kits that operates off the flywheel end of the engine. These can be used for stock competition pulling engines and/or ordinary lawn & garden engines.
Designed Specifically for Single Cylinder Garden Pulling Tractors, these Self-Contained 12 Volt High Performance Dyna S Kit is Integrated with a Durable High Energy Ignition Coil Are Built with the Latest State-of-the-Art Engineering. Thoroughly tested and proven to be very reliable. Self-contained and very compact. Each kit includes: Sensor/module, coil, bracket and locking set screw collar w/embedded detector/target magnet. No need for a separate/remote-mounted ignition coil and additional wiring. The high energy ignition coil is fastened above the Dynatek Dyna S module on the same aluminum mounting plate. Customer may have to drill and tap the block to mount the crank-trigger or modify the bracket if necessary. Each ignition kit comes prewired with one or two simple wire connection(s): Connect the RED wire to the ignition switch (battery positive (+) post), and connect the BLACK wire to the self-grounding killswitch (if equipped), or snip off the black wire if not needed. Set the air gap/clearance between sensor and magnet in locking set screw collar at .010"-.050", and set spark plug gap at .035". Please specify diameter of crankshaft PTO end for locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet. Most common crankshaft PTO end diameters are 1" and 1-1/8", but 3/4", 1-1/4", 1-3/8", 1-7/16" and 1-1/2" are rare. Most billet steel crankshafts have a 1-1/2" diameter PTO end (raised shoulder). Please specify diameter of crankshaft PTO end for locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet. Made in USA. Picture and video of each product coming soon.
Wiring Directions for Either Module Shown Below: Connect the BLACK
wire on module to the negative () terminal on the ignition coil (and
to nothing else), and connect the RED
wire on the module to the positive (+) terminal on the coil and to the ignition
switch (positive (+) battery post). . FYI - The module/sensor is diode-protected,
and will NOT burn up if the wires are connected in reverse with power supplied.
IMPORTANT
- Module will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few
minutes with the engine not running.
Dynatek Dyna S Ignition Kit and System for Single Cylinder Engines Below. These ignition systems works flawlessly and may outlast the life of the engine. This ignition system operates off the PTO end of the crankshaft and is mainly for competition pulling engines that have nothing on the PTO end of the crankshaft. These are high performance ignition systems that produce a stable and very strong spark, even with a stock ignition coil, allowing the engine to start quick, idle smoothly and rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or misfire to produce more power. NOTE: Slotted mounting holes will be machined in the ignition plate. If the bolt holes in the PTO end of the block don't match the ones in the plate or if bolt holes are not present, then new bolt holes will need to be drilled and tapped in the engine block. Can be used on Kohler 10-16hp single or opposed twin cylinder horizontal shaft engines. Set the clearance between the module and locking collar at .010"-.050". IMPORTANT - Gently rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand to check and see that the module does not make contact with the locking collar. Do not allow the module make contact with the locking collar while the engine is running! FYI - Unlike the competition of this part, FYI - Unlike the competition of this part, the module is diode-protected, and will NOT burn up if the wires are connected in reverse with power supplied. But the module will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system.
Self-Contained Ignition System.
This ignition system operates off the PTO end of the engine and is mainly
for competition pulling engines that have nothing on the PTO end of the
crankshaft. The compact high energy ignition coil is fastened above the Dynatek
Dyna S module on a sturdy aluminum mounting plate; cleans up the engine
compartment. This is a high performance ignition system that produce a stable
and very strong spark, even with a stock ignition coil, allowing the engine
to start quick, idle smoothly and rev up to full speed. The Dynatek Dyna
S module/sensor is triggered by a small magnet embedded in an aluminum locking
set screw collar that's fastened on the crankshaft. Set spark plug gap at
.030". An innovative and ingenious concept by Brian Miller. Picture
of this ignition system coming soon. $150.00 per kit, plus shipping
& handling.
Self-Contained
Ignition Upgrade Kit for Kohler Engine Models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19,
KT19 Series II, M18 and M20 Competition Pulling Engines Only. This ignition
system works flawlessly and may outlast the life of the engine. This ignition
system operates off the PTO end of the engine and is mainly for competition
pulling engines that have nothing on the PTO end of the crankshaft. The compact
high energy dual-spark plug wire ignition coil is fastened above the Dynatek
Dyna S module on a sturdy aluminum mounting plate; cleans up the engine
compartment. This is a high performance ignition system that produce a stable
and very strong spark, even with a stock ignition coil, allowing the engine
to start quick, idle smoothly and rev up to full speed. The Dynatek Dyna
S module/sensor is triggered by a small magnet embedded in an aluminum locking
set screw collar that's fastened on the crankshaft. Use this setup for durability
when the solid state ignition coil keeps failing for no apparent reason.
Simple one wire hook-up; RED wire on
module/sensor connects to 12 volt ignition switch (battery positive (+) post).
Kit includes: Dynatek Dyna S module/sensor and high energy dual wire epoxy
encapsulated ignition coil with two molded-in metal core conductor spark
plug wires and 90º spark plug terminals/boots fastened on aluminum mounting
plate, and small magnet embedded in an aluminum locking set screw collar,
and new battery ignition OFF-IGNITION-START key switch (do not reuse OEM
Magnum solid state ignition key switch with this system) or an OFF-ON toggle/flip
switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition)
and a momentary push button switch (to crank the engine) and fully insulated
male and female slip-on spade crimp-type wire connectors (to easily
connect/disconnect the ignition system to/from the power source). Remove
the OEM solid state ignition coil and aluminum bracket. They will serve no
purpose with this kit. Use with copper core spark plugs gapped at .030" each.
Please specify diameter of crankshaft PTO end for the locking collar when
ordering. FYI - The module is diode-protected, and will NOT burn up if the
wires are connected in reverse with power supplied.
But the
module will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few
minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening
and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a
master disconnect switch with a removable
key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition
system. Picture of this setup coming soon. An ingenious
and innovative concept by Brian Miller because nobody else advertise this
type of ignition system.
Replacement Dynatek Dyna S
hall effect sensor/module with red and black wires. FYI - Unlike my
competitors, this module is diode-protected, and will NOT burn up if the
wires are connected in reverse with power supplied.
But the
module will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few
minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening
and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a
master disconnect switch with a removable
key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition
system. Use with small magnet in aluminum rotating disc
to trigger the spark. $60.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the parts or items in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Return to previous paragraph, section or website] [Top of Page]
How to Test for Spark and Set the Timing for the Dynatek Dyna S (and PerTronix Ignitor) module/sensors - After either setup is installed on the engine and power is supplied, simply rotate the locking collar w/embedded magnet (loose) on the crankshaft back and forth by hand. Each time the embedded detector/trigger magnet passes the sensor/module, spark should occur. NOTE: Do not use a battery charger alone for power to perform this test. Battery chargers constantly switch between high and low voltage at 60 cycles per second, and the module sees this as the ignition being switched on and off, resulting in a continuous array of sparks.
The simple way to set the ignition timing STATICALLY (engine not running) for either sensor/module -
How to accurately set the ignition timing STATICALLY for the Dynatek Dyna S, PerTronix Ignitor and Inductive 3-Wire Proximity Sensor/Module - (This is also how to test if the sensor/modules or the ignition system is functioning or not.)
How to precisely set the ignition timing DYNAMICALLY (engine running) using an automotive inductive timing light for either sensor/module. (This is the most accurate way to set the timing.) NOTE: Timing can be checked, but not set while the engine is running! Do not allow sensor/module to make contact with the locking collar w/embedded magnet while engine is running! -
3-Wire Inductive and Hall Effect Proximity Sensors | Magnetic Pickup Coils
Magnetic pickup coils and round-shaped proximity sensors are
very sensitive to mechanical damage (and electrical damage if connected
wrong). For magnetic pickup coils, set the
air gap/clearance from the detectable target (screw, pin or small raised
area on the rotating disc) at .010"-.060" with a brass, plastic, business
card, poster board, stainless steel (anything non-magnetic) feeler gauge.
And being 3-wire inductive proximity sensors have
a farther detection range, set the air gap/clearance at .010"-.188". If the
gap is wider than .188" (3/16") with either sensor, the ignition system may
not produce a spark or the engine could misfire at higher RPM. To prevent
the possibility of an out of time spark occurrence, the detectable target
needs to be a minimum of 3/16" higher than or above the circumference surface
of a steel or cast iron rotating disc or flywheel. Direct metal contact with
either sensor could damage them. When in doubt if a sensor is
mechanically damaged, look at the end of it with the strong magnifying glass
to see any damage. If it is damaged, it needs to be replaced. A
magnetic pickup coil can be tested with a digital multimeter set on 200m
DC, with the negative lead of the meter on the white wire of the pickup coil
and positive lead on the black wire, then pass a small steel screw or bolt
over the end of the magnetic pickup coil. If the meter shows a reading, the
pickup coil is in good condition.
Normally Open 3-Wire Inductive
Proximity Sensors for flywheel-trigger electronic ignition.
Recommended for use with the Chrysler and Ford electronic ignition control
module/units. Detects head of small ferrous metal (steel) screw or bolt fastened
to rotating disc or flywheel to generate power in sensor. Spark will occur
when aligned with head of steel screw (Kohler. etc.) or pin (Tecumseh) in
rotating disc or flywheel. Wide operating temperature range. Epoxy encapsulated,
mechanically rugged. Impervious to dirt, oil and water. No maintenance required.
Sensor is capable of powering flywheel-trigger electronic ignition and digital
tachometer at the same time. Durable metal shielded threads with two stainless
steel thin jam
nuts and three, 10 foot long wire leads. Dimensions of each item below:
15/32" (12mm) diameter x 1-3/8" thread length. Some proximity sensors have
an LED (Light Emitting Diode) on the rear of unit. If the proximity sensor
is wired incorrectly, the LED will stay on and go off when activated.
Being 3-wire inductive proximity sensors have a farther
detection range, set the air gap/clearance at .010"-.188". Direct metal contact
with either sensor will damage them. And if the gap is wider than .188" (3/16"),
the ignition system may not produce a spark or the engine could misfire at
higher RPM. To prevent the possibility of an out of time spark occurrence,
the detectable target needs to be a minimum of 3/16" higher than or above
the circumference surface of a steel or cast iron rotating disc or flywheel.
Click or tap here for wiring
diagrams.
Magnetic Pickup Coils
for flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition. All magnetic pickup coils
are Normally Open. Either can be used with the high-output/performance GM
4-pin HEI module w/1.0 ohm coil, or with the Chrysler or Ford electronic
ignition control module/units. Detects head of small ferrous metal (steel)
screw or bolt fastened to rotating disc or flywheel to generate power in
magnetic pickup coil. Install screw head extended minimum 3/16" higher than
or above the surface of the flywheel to prevent an out of time spark occurrence
by the flywheel itself. Wide operating temperature range. Epoxy encapsulated,
mechanically rugged. Impervious to dirt, oil and water. No maintenance required.
Self-generating power. Durable metal shielded threads with two
jam nuts.
Please specify size when ordering. Can be used with a steel bracket without
interference of magnetism. By the way - The magnetic pickup coils below work
exactly the same. There is absolutely no difference in performance.
Set the air gap/clearance from the detectable target (screw, pin or small
raised area on the rotating disc) at .010"-.020" with a brass, plastic, business
card, poster board or anything non-magnetic feeler gauge.
Click or tap here for wiring diagrams.
Detectable Target Screws for
Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition. Install on the edge of an aluminum
or steel locking set screw collar, disc or
flywheel when using a magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire inductive proximity
sensor. The curvature or dome shaped heads of button- and Phillips-head screws
makes them ideal for use as a detectable target on a trigger disc or flywheel.
Secure in place with a split lock washer and/or
high strength liquid threadlocker
(Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent). FYI
- Store a container of liquid threadlocker or Super Glue upright and not
laying flat. The capped tip will not dry out and clog when stored upright.
An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised
copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my
intelligence.)
Detectable Target Neodymium/Rare
Earth Ring Magnet, Rubber Cushioning/Isolator Washer and Steel Retaining
Screw for Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition. Each weighs 1/10 oz. / 6
grams. Fasten magnet w/screw and cushioning/isolator washer on the edge of
aluminum or steel disc, or flywheel when using a non-magnetic pickup coil,
3-wire hall effect proximity sensor or hall effect PerTronix Ignitor
sensor/module. Head of screw will become magnetized. NOTE: Being the PerTronix
Ignitor senses a certain polarity of the magnet, do not remove the magnet
from the screw. (The PerTronix Ignitor I and II, Dynatek Dyna S modules and
hall effect proximity sensors are activated by the South end of the magnet.
They won't do anything from the North end.) And neodymium and rare earth
magnets are the strongest available. Five times stronger than ceramic (ferrite)
magnets for stronger detection. Be extra careful when handling rare
earth/neodymium magnets. They are very brittle and can break when snapped
onto something or when the screw is tightened too much. Install the rubber
cushioning/isolator washer between the magnet and flywheel, and secure the
screw with
high strength liquid threadlocker
(Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent). Tighten
the screw/magnet just until the rubber washer begins to bulge. FYI - Store
a container of liquid threadlocker or Super Glue upright and not laying flat.
The capped tip will not dry out and clog when stored upright. An ingenious
and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat
products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.)
High Quality Ordinary/Stock GM HEI 4-Pin Ignition Control Module
w/packet of
thermal paste (to dissipate the operating heat). Use with
a high-output hall effect or inductive proximity sensor. Virtually any ignition
coil regardless of the internal primary resistor can be used. Best to be
used with a metal core conductor spark plug wire and non-resistor/copper
core spark plug gapped at .025" or .035" (depending on size of coil) for
best performance. This combination of ignition components produce an extremely
strong spark, allowing the engine to rev
up to full speed. When mounting the GM 4-pin HEI module, fasten it with
thermal paste on a clean, flat aluminum plate with plenty
of cool, circulating air to dissipate the heat and cool the unit while in
operation. All GM HEI modules that I offer for sale have been tested personally
by Brian Miller on my Kohler test engine to insure proper operation. Requires
one (1) 3/16"/.187"/2.8mm and three (3) #250
slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors. Actual
weight of each module: 1.1 oz. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces OEM Kohler
part # 278903. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality High-Output/Performance GM HEI 4-Pin Ignition
Control Module w/packet of
thermal paste (to dissipate the operating heat). This
particular module connected to a magnetic pickup coil (below
Ê) works excellent with a stock ignition
coil that have a maximum 1.0 ohm internal primary resistor, metal core conductor
spark plug wire and non-resistor/copper core spark plug gapped at .025, which
produce a strong spark, allowing the engine
to rev up to full speed. When mounting the GM 4-pin HEI module, fasten it
with
thermal paste on a clean, flat aluminum plate with plenty
of cool, circulating air to dissipate the heat and cool the unit while in
operation. Requires one (1) 3/16"/.187"/2.8mm and three (3) #250
slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors. Actual
weight of each module: 1.1 oz. $35.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
(Limited supply.)
3/8" Magnetic Pickup Coil w/Mounting
Adapter to Convert from Breakerless Ignition or Ignition Points and Condenser
and Upgrade to Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition. Fits Kohler K-series
K241-K361 engines with the 9" ring gear flywheel w/projection (hump) or OEM
protruding bolt head on flywheel or 3/4" wide area (to install trigger screw
with a minimum 1/4" length aluminum spacer) and large bearing plate with
the two bosses for mounting this item, as pictured above. Includes two 10-24
UNC Allen socket head mounting screws and split lock washers. If they're
not already present, new 10-24 UNC (coarse thread) threads will need to be
drilled and tapped
in the two raised bosses in the bearing plate to mount the bracket for the
sensor's bracket. NOTE: Set air gap/clearance from projection (hump)
or OEM protruding bolt head on flywheel at .010"-.060" with a brass, plastic,
business card, poster board or anything non-magnetic feeler gauge. Ignition
timing will be fixed at 20º BTDC.
Click or tap here
for wiring diagrams. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian
Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I
do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.)
Now the ordinary/stock 4-pin GM HEI electronic ignition control
module lives up to its name, High Energy Ignition! When used on a small engine,
in order for an ordinary/stock 4-pin HEI module allow the engine to rev up
to full speed, it must be used with the cube-shaped 3-wire inductive proximity
sensor, and can be used with virtually any ignition coil, regardless
of the ohms resistance or voltage output. A metal core conductor spark plug
wire and non-resistor/copper core spark plug should be used. Set spark plug
gap at .035". Sensor is also capable of powering an HEI flywheel-trigger
electronic ignition and a digital tachometer at
the same time. This concept revolutionizes the use of this small, compact
and versatile module! This is a thoroughly tested, researched and proven
reliable ignition system invented by Brian Miller for ordinary lawn &
garden engines and competition pulling engines. And when mounting the GM
4-pin HEI module, always fasten it with
thermal paste (to dissipate the operating
heat) on a clean, flat aluminum plate with plenty of cool, circulating air
to dissipate the heat while in operation. Click
or tap here for wiring diagrams.
[Return to previous paragraph, section
or website] IMPORTANT - The wire that comes
from the stator under the flywheel for Kohler Trigger Module or Tecumseh
Solid State Electronic Ignition Module generates about 250 volts while the
engine is running at full governed speed (serious). Do not touch this wire
(terminal) with one bare hand and the engine itself with your other hand
while the engine is running! It is not needed for any of my flywheel-trigger
electronic ignition systems. So snip off this wire or tape up the terminal
to prevent a short circuit or electrocution.
New High Quality Chrysler /
Dodge / Plymouth Electronic Ignition Control Module/Unit for flywheel-trigger
electronic ignition. Requires a minimum 1.2 ohm ballast resistor to prevent
burning up module. Click or tap here to
learn how to check the resistor in a coil or ballast resistor. This module
can be used with the magnetic pickup coil or proximity sensor and virtually
any ignition coil, regardless of the ohms resistance or voltage output, and
will allow the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly, rev up to full RPM
with no hesitation or misfire and it'll produce more power. Actual weight
of module: 14 oz. Click or tap here for wiring
diagrams.
New 1.6 ohm Ballast Resistor
for use with Chrysler module (above È)
to prevent burning up module, or ballast resistor can be used with a 12 volt
ignition coil with low ohm internal primary resistor to prevent excessive
burning of point contacts.
New High
Quality Ford / Mercury / Lincoln Electronic Ignition Control Module/Unit
for flywheel-trigger electronic ignition. Operates with full 12 volts
DC of power. Requires no ballast resistor. This module can be used with the
magnetic pickup coil or proximity sensor and virtually any ignition coil,
regardless of the ohms resistance or voltage output, and will allow the engine
to start quicker, idle smoothly, rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or
misfire and it'll produce more power. Actual weight of module: 1 lb. 7 oz.
Click or tap here for wiring diagrams.
[Return to previous section]
High
Quality Inductive Wireless Handheld Small Engine Tachometer. A tachometer
is required in setting the correct RPMs (normally 3,200 or 3,600 maximum
for small engines) of an engine to prevent from over-revving and possible
damage to the engine or dangerous flywheel explosion. For gas/spark ignite
engines only. Works with magneto and battery-powered ignition systems. Very
accurate. This handheld analog tachometer works great for checking/setting
the RPM on various small engines in the shop, and/or for checking/setting
the RPM [tech] on stock governed competition pulling engines. Hold sensor
(antenna) close to spark plug wire for reading. Operates off a self-contained
replaceable 9 volt battery. Has built-in battery voltage check. Reads up
to 5,000 RPM on the low scale, and 15,000 RPM on the high scale.
High Quality Inductive Small
Engine Tachometer/Hour Meter. A tachometer is required in setting the
correct RPMs (normally 3,200 or 3,600 maximum for small engines) of an engine
to prevent over-revving and possible damage to the engine or dangerous flywheel
explosion. Very accurate. Can be hand-held to temporarily set engine RPM
or can be surface-mounted and secured with two screws. mounted to monitor
engine RPM at all times. Large 3/8 inch LCD display. Works with all spark
ignition engines by selecting engine type using S1 and S2 buttons. Works
with magneto and battery-powered ignition systems. If tachometer does
not turn on automatically as soon as engine starts, press and hold the two
buttons at the same time. Instructions included. Tachometer reads up
to 99,999 RPM. Hour meter reads up to 9999:59 hours/minutes then resets to
Zero. Programmable maintenance hour setting with service icon, a reminder
when to change oil or other service. Can be manually reset to Zero hours.
Programmable maintenance hour setting with service icon, a reminder when
to change oil or other service. Easy installation: Single wire wraps around
spark plug wire and secured with two supplied nylon zip-ties. No wire terminal
connections required. Dimensions: 2" wide x 1-3/4" depth x 3/4" height.
High Quality Digital
Tachometer/Proximity Sensor Kits. A tachometer is required in setting
the correct RPMs (normally 3,200 or 3,600 maximum for small engines) of an
engine to prevent from over-revving and possible damage to the engine or
dangerous flywheel explosion. Choice of a
RED or
BLUE numeric display. Will work with
single- or twin-cylinder small engines or multi-cylinder automotive engines,
gas or diesel. The great thing about this type of tachometer is it needs
no setup. It displays accurate RPMs as soon as the engine cranks over to
start. Displays up to 9,999 RPM. Very accurate. Tachometer returns to zero
[0000] when engine is shut down. Operates totally independent of the ignition
system. Can be used for lawn & garden equipment or competition pulling
engines. Designed to be permanently mounted to monitor engine RPM at all
times. Tachometer can be mounted in pedestal, dashboard, instrument panel,
engine control panel, flywheel shroud, etc. This precision digital tachometer
operates with external power and on the same principle as my
flywheel- or
crank-trigger ignition systems with a proximity sensor to detect the
target, which can be a small ferrous steel screw or pin, or magnet in a rotating
disc on the crankshaft or on/in flywheel. A sturdy steel or aluminum bracket
will need to be fabricated by customer to mount the sensor in close proximity
of the detector/trigger target. Set air gap/clearance at .010"-.188". Tachometer
works with 8-24 volts DC, proximity sensor works with 6-36 volts DC. Dimensions
for mounting hole for tachometer: 3" wide x 1-17/32" wide. Tachometer measures
1" in depth. Dimensions of proximity sensor: 15/32" diameter x 1-3/8" thread
length. Wiring Instructions: #1 wire on tachometer connects to brown wire
on proximity sensor and ignition switch (12 volt power), #2 wire on tachometer
connects to blue wire on proximity sensor and engine/chassis ground (battery
negative () post), and #5 wire on tachometer connects to black wire
on (either) proximity sensor. Wires #3 and #4 connects to nothing. Wiring
is the same for the hall effect and inductive proximity sensors. Some proximity
sensors have an LED (Light Emitting Diode) on the rear of unit. If the proximity
sensor is wired incorrectly, the LED will illuminate within the target.
Click or tap here for YouTube videos to see how well this
tachometer works. Cannot be wired in conjunction with the Dynatek Dyna
S or PerTronix Ignitor ignition modules. This tachometer must be wired separately
or wiring can be integrated with my crank-trigger ignition system that use
a proximity sensor.
Using a 4-pin GM HEI (High Energy Ignition) 4-Pin Module Ignition Distributor on an Older Automotive, Farm-Use, etc., Engine (Hybrid Ignition System) - [Top of Page].
If
you have an automotive-type gas engine in an old car, truck, farm tractor,
forklift, construction equipment, boat motor, etc., with a worn out or
troublesome point ignition distributor, and/or parts are no longer available
or if you want to upgrade it to the modern, higher output, trouble- and
maintenance-free electronic ignition system, then all the engine will need
is a battery-powered, non-computer controlled 4-pin GM HEI distributor (with
the 4-pin electronic ignition control module) and spark plug wires from a
1975-84 General Motors vehicle (Chevrolet, Pontiac, Oldsmobile, Buick, Cadillac
or GMC truck) with an L4, L6, V6 or V8 engine. These type of distributors
are considered high performance because they produce a very
strong spark (about 40,000 volts to the
spark plugs) for quicker starts, smooth idling and more engine power, and
is ideal for use in other makes of engines because the ignition parts are
self-contained; the coil is located in the distributor cap and the electronic
ignition control module is located in the distributor itself. And there's
only one 12 volt wire to power the 4-pin GM HEI distributor. A Chevy V8 HEI
distributor is shown to the right. The 4 and 6 cylinder engine distributors
are similar.
And to get even
a stronger spark to the spark plugs, install an
MSD Low Resistance Bushing 8412. This part installs in
the center of the distributor cap, underneath the coil.
If there's not enough space or clearance on an engine for the 4-pin GM HEI distributor, a smaller diameter non-computer controlled electronic ignition distributor from a Ford, Mercury or Lincoln, or Chrysler, Plymouth or Dodge (MOPAR) vehicle can be used instead. The Ford or MOPAR electronic ignition control module and ignition coil will need to be mounted elsewhere on the vehicle or equipment, such as on the firewall or inner fender well. And the spark plug wires that's designed for these distributors will also be needed. These type of distributors and ignition systems are also considered high performance because they produce a very strong spark.
How To Convert It:
How To Securely "Pin" Two Shafts Together:
A-1 Miller's Computerized Stuska Water Brake Engine Dynamometer (Dyno) Service with DPM Data Logger Software to Test Horsepower and Torque! | [Top of Page]
For performance testing of 10-16hp
single cylinder Kohler stock or competition pulling engines at speeds up
to 12,000 RPM. 100% accurate, customers can rent dyno time, fine tune and
make adjustments or changes to their engines to gain maximum horsepower and
torque, and print-out the results so their tractor(s) will be truly competitive
on the track. With an engine dyno, the puller can adjust their engine to
get maximum horsepower and torque, and gear their tractor appropriately to
have an advantage over the competition. NOTE: A fresh-built engine may
not produce full power until it's broke-in. This is when the valves wear-in
with the seats to completely seal in the compression. The rings will likely
hold the compression, but the valves may leak slightly until they wear into
the seats. This is normal for all engines and may take several hours or pulls
to happen, then the valves will be able to hold full compression. Lots of
pullers tell A-1 Miller's after I've built their engines that it seems to
pull stronger every time they pull it.
Engine Dyno Rental Fee: $50.00 per hour run time from the moment the engine is started. No setup fee for Cub Cadet engines with a 3- or 6-pin/stud clutch driver. An adapter may need to be needed or fabricated for other makes and models of engines. Only engines with the narrow base oil pan can be tested. Engines with the wide base (tall) oil pan cannot be tested at this time. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]
Coming Soon - Detailed Illustrated
Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back and Self-Propelled Garden
Tractor Pulling Sled. FYI - The
professionally-built self-propelled pulling sled is the only one I've ever
built (click the picture to the right to see a larger image of this sled),
and I got it right the first time, with very few changes or modifications
that had to be made to it. I guess I'm just one of those kind of guys that
knows what he's doing. Pullers really like pulling our sled, too. They say
it's the best sled they've ever pulled. (Not bragging, just stating a fact.)
By the way - Track Master sled is engineered so well (by Brian Miller), that
other sled builders/owners have copied my well thought-out and proven design.
And I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence. Anyway, I have lots
of work to do in my shop and I work on the sled plans in my spare time. As
soon as my plans with an inventory list of parts to use are perfected, I'll
post the update in my websites with the prices of the plans. Remember -
Perfection takes time. If it's worth having, it's worth waiting for. Also,
I plan to acquire a bigger shop and may build high quality garden tractor
pulling sleds in the future to offer for sale. Please call 573-256-0313 (shop)
or 573-881-7229 (cell; text or voice message), or email
pullingtractor@aol.com if interested.
- Brian Miller
If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this
website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old
Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri)
65203-9136 USA | Phone:
1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice
message, please speak slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except
holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later.
(When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I
stutter.)
E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.
When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly
with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to
the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate our business to other property with a bigger and better
shop so we can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
To place an order, please call the number below Ê or send an email with your name, complete and correct postal address and phone number and so I can figure the total with shipping cost and USPS Tracking. For payment options for parts ordered or services performed, or to make a donation to my websites, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge), Western Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram Money Transfers. (If a part for a specific purpose is high-output ordered, your debit/credit card may be charged for the full amount or as a deposit right after your order is placed; please do not send your debit/credit card information in email!) Or you can pay A-1 Miller's through PayPal. (My PayPal account name is my email address. And be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment is for.) If sending a money order, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone number and a description of what the payment is for. My mailing address and phone number are below Ê . I'll make a note of your order, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send the parts to you as soon as I have everything in stock after I receive your payment.
IMPORTANT - When sending your part(s) to A-1 Miller's for rebuilding or repair, package everything securely so the item(s) won't get damaged in shipping and please include a note in the box with your name, mailing address, phone number (in case I have any questions) and a description of what you want done. When shipping heavy parts, it's best to put a slightly smaller box inside a larger box, to double the strength and integrity of the package. Because the clumsy "gorillas" or incompetent and uncaring workers that work for certain delivery services mishandle the heavy packages and don't care. And when the work is completed, I'll either call or email you an invoice with the total including shipping & handling.
Payment Options and We Ship to Canada and
Worldwide
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent
by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged
item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service
Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal
Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S.
territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground
or equivalent services. We try to keep our shipping cost to customers within
reason. Therefore, we don't ship our products in a fancy-looking package
with our company name and/or logo on it because most customers will just
toss it in the trash after they remove the contents. And being there is no
USPS tracking number outside the US, all I can do is make sure I write your
address correctly on the customs form and on your package.
My websites are not set up to process orders and accept payments. Therefore, for payment options, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total amount for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge), Western Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram Money Transfers. If paying with a credit/debit card, please call me at either number below. To make a payment to me through PayPal, please click this link: https://www.paypal.me/PullingTractor. Please use the "Friends and Family" option, or add 3% to the total amount to cover PayPal's processing surcharge. Or to make a payment to me (pullingtractor@aol.com) in the US through the Venmo app, please click this link: venmo.com. Or use Cash App to make a payment to me (pullingtractor@aol.com). And be sure to mention in PayPal, Venmo or Cash App a description of what the payment is for with your full name, postal address, phone number and email address. If sending a money order or cashier's check, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete mailing address, phone number, email address and a description of what the payment is for. I'll make a note of your order when I have all your information, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send everything on your list to you as soon as I have the parts in stock after I receive your payment.
à Return to Main Pulling Tips Page | Return To Previous Page | Various Vendors Related to Tractor Pulling | Top of Page
Copyright © 1996-Present. This website created, designed and maintained by Brian Miller.