There's a cheater in every sport, and competition tractor pulling is no different. Honest pullers who ignore the cheater(s) are fools. And when there's prize money involved, a fool and their money are soon parted. Anyway, to make competition pulling a fun and fair sport for the entire family, be protective of your equipment! While at the pulls, keep an eye on your killswitch plug! When a competitive or winning pulling tractor is left unattended, it's been known that certain disgruntled pullers (sore losers ) belonging to various associations/clubs, virtually anywhere and everywhere, will pull a competitor's killswitch plug and toss it out of sight. This is one of the easiest, dishonest and sneaky ways to disable and sabotage a competitor's tractor. All a cheater needs is an opportunity in an attempt to gain an advantage on the track. This is also the fastest way for a pulling association or club to gain a bad reputation and lose honest pullers. (Bad news travels fast.) This type of behavior doesn't happen often, but you need to be prepared if or when it does happen. To be prepared for this unforeseeable extra killswitch plug with you. This kind of dishonest behavior doesn't happen often, but you need to be prepared if or when it does happen. Keep an eye on your carburetor, too! Always try to stay one step ahead of a cheater. Because there's cheaters in every sport, and nobody likes a cheater, not even cheaters themselves! But then again, if the winning tractor is suspected of cheating on the track (illegal fuel, engine, weight, etc.), there's always the protest rule. But only if it's enforced by the pulling association. Remember - cheating is devious theft with a sly smirk. Heck, some pulling associations/clubs vote-in and/or change certain rules in a meeting during the off-season, lock them in for several years, but don't even enforce or follow their own rules during the pulling season! They change their rules so often, they might as well just write them in pencil! Another thing I don't understand is when a [prominent] puller of an association/club ask the president of the club if an illegal part can be used in his engine for pulling, and the president says, "yeah, sure!" But the pulling association/club's sanctioning rules, the very same rules that the members (pullers) of the association/club discussed about and voted-on in a meeting, clearly states in black and white that such a part cannot be used.

Safety First! Fabricating a Killswitch - [Top of Page]

First of all, in order to kill both the [battery-powered] ignition system and electric fuel pump, the tractor will need a heavy duty, "connect the wires yourself" 3-prong electrical male plug and matching female receptacle. About 4 feet length of minimum #14 gauge (AWG) 2-wire lamp cord will also be needed. Connect the wires so both the battery-powered ignition system and electric fuel pump circuits will be disabled when the plug is pulled from the receptacle.

Here's how to connect the wires:

1. Inside the electrical male plug, connect the two flat terminals/prongs together with a short, bare wire. This will complete the circuit to power the battery-powered ignition system and electric fuel pump. Don't run any wires outside the plug. Do not connect any wire to the neutral terminal/prong in the plug or receptacle. The neutral prong will help secure the plug in the receptacle when pulling.
2. Securely fasten a medium size steel key ring on the end of the male plug so the hook on the killswitch pull cable can connect to it.
3. Route the 2-wire lamp cord in a safe manner along the inside of the tractor frame so it will not get pinched, chafed or make contact with the engine/chassis ground. And make sure the cord is routed/fastened securely to prevent it from being damaged or wrapped around the clutch assembly and/or driveshaft!
4. Connect each wire of the 2-wire lamp cord to each terminal inside the female receptacle. Do not connect any wire to the neutral terminal.
5. Connect one of the wires on the 2-wire lamp cord to the ignition switch terminal that connects to the positive (+) battery post.
6. Connect the other wire of the 2-wire lamp cord to the wire that goes to the positive (+) coil terminal and electric fuel pump.
7. For safety, install an inline fuse holder (within easy access) or an automatic circuit breaker with a minimum 5 amp rating in case the 2-wire lamp cord becomes shorted to ground. By doing this, if a short occurs, the fuse will need to be replaced, and the circuit breaker will automatically reset itself until the short is fixed.
8. Fabricate a secure bracket to mount the female receptacle to the center rear of the tractor, just above the drawbar/hitch.
9. Test the killswitch with the engine running and fuel pump working by pulling on the steel ring to make sure it works as it should.

Or for a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system, or battery-powered ignition system, the "grounding" type of kill switch can be used. This is actually a break-away safety kill switch for an ATV, jet ski, boat or towing trailer. When the pin is pulled, it grounds the ignition coil from producing any spark, instantly killing the engine. If using this type of kill switch with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system: Connect one wire to the engine or chassis ground, and connect the other wire to the ignition points/condenser wire or to the kill terminal on the solid state electronic ignition coil/module. If using with a battery-powered ignition system: Connect one wire to the chassis ground, and connect the other wire to the negative (–) coil terminal. NOTE: With battery-powered ignition, as soon as the pin is pulled (the engine will die), immediately shut off the ignition switch to prevent power going to the ignition coil (and A-1 Miller's flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition, if equipped) to keep from over-heating and burning up. This type of switch will not disable power to the electric fuel pump on a pulling tractor. The electric fuel pump must be shut-off manually by the ignition switch or an OFF-ON switch.

Ignition Solutions -

Spark-ignited engines requires a spark to initiate burning of the air-fuel mixture in the combustion chamber. The spark in each cylinder is provided by a spark plug and is actually a flow of electrical current through the air and fuel vapor between the closely spaced electrodes of the spark plug. The resistance of air is very high. Therefore, a 15,000- to 30,000-volt potential across the gap is used to fire the plug. Typically, the ignition system must supply this high voltage from a 12 volt DC power source, such as a storage battery. Moreover, the spark must begin at the proper point in the cycle and must be of sufficient duration.

Whenever a manufacturer wants to sell their latest fancy ignition system, they run a bench test that shows that their unit puts out more voltage than the other guy's. If you read enough ads with claims of extremely high available voltage, you may begin to think that voltage is the only thing necessary to make an ignition system the best in the world. After all, if ignition "A" puts out more voltage than ignition "B", the one you would want is "A", right? Sorry, but that isn't necessarily so. Ignition "A" may put out more voltage, but is it more mechanically dependable than ignition "B"? Did you know that 90% of ignition failures are mechanical, and not electrical? Blame burnt or dirty ignition points, defective condenser/capacitor, defective switch(es), broken or chaffed wires, loose screws or connectors, slipped timing, worn hinge/pivot pin hole in ignition points, etc. Apply lubricating grease on the hinge/pivot pin before installing ignition points so the hole will last longer. When it's dry, it'll wear prematurely, effecting ignition timing, resulting in loss of engine power. By the way - As business is booming, whenever a condenser/capacitor becomes defective or gets weak, the engine may idle well, but hesitate to rev up, or if it did rev up, it may run very erratic. Click/tap here to hear what an engine with a defective condenser/capacitor sounds like. For the record, "condenser" is an age old term, and "capacitor" is a newer term for the same device. Ignition capacitors are still commonly called condensers. NOTE: The condenser body must be securely fastened to the engine/chassis ground for the engine to run smooth. If the condenser is loose in its bracket, the bracket can be squeezed slightly with large pliers to be made oblong or egg-shape, and then the condenser will remain tight inside it. But if an engine idles well, but runs erratically above idle, like it hits and misses, pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs a new condenser/capacitor. And always install a condenser/capacitor with the wire or terminal facing down so rain water and/or when washing off engine, water will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it. Which will allow the engine to idle well, but run erratically when revved up. Click/tap here to hear what an engine with a faulty condenser/capacitor sounds like. Or better yet, upgrade/convert the engine with an A-1 Miller's maintenance-free and weather-proof battery-powered flywheel-trigger electronic ignition system for a stronger and more stable spark, quicker starts, smoother idle and overall better running engine.

The importance of extremely high secondary voltage for more performance have been somewhat overplayed. An ignition system, regardless of type, produce only enough voltage necessary to jump the spark plug gap and ignite the air/fuel mixture. In perfect condition, a good spark plug wire and high quality copper core/non-resistor spark plug with a gap of .035" can't handle much more than 32,000 volts. If an ignition could produce more than that, then the extra voltage would escape through a leaking spark plug wire, a small crack in the canister ignition coil tower, etc. Besides, an average engine simply just doesn't need that much voltage. In most cases, an average engine simply don't need a high-output/performance (40,000 volt) ignition coil. If a plug require only 10,000 volts to jump its gap, then a "Super Coil" that's advertised to produce 40,000 volts will produce just 10,000 volts for that same plug under the same conditions. An ignition coil advertised to produce 40,000 volts may have the potential to do it, but unless everything is in excellent condition, only a fraction of that voltage would reach the spark plug's tip.

As a spark plug's electrodes wear, its gap increases, so more voltage is required from the ignition coil before the spark is able to jump across the gap. If uncorrected, the gap eventually increases to the point where the plug requires more voltage than the coil can produce. However, a high-output/performance ignition coil would probably be able to fire the worn plug. Did you know that most stock ignition coils will produce enough voltage to jump a gap of up to 3/4 of an inch? Of course, no spark plug electrode will ever wear that wide. Therefore, the use of a high-output/performance ignition coil really isn't necessary, except in extreme high compression, alcohol-burning engines.

What are the Best Spark Plugs to Use for an Ordinary Lawn & Garden Tractor Engine or Competition Garden Pulling Tractor Engine?

I've found that the best copper core/non-resistor spark plugs to use in a small engine is an AC Delco, Autolite and Champion. These are of the highest quality and will, without a doubt, allow the ignition coil to last longer. These do not foul-out prematurely and they seem to last a long time. Also, it'll be a good idea to avoid using resistor type spark plugs in a small engine with self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition. Resistor plugs may cause a good magneto or solid state electronic ignition coil/module to go bad prematurely because they force the secondary windings within the coil to produce higher voltage than usual to fire the plug, eventually causing the windings to burn out. And unlike gasoline, alcohol fuels (ethanol and methanol) will rarely foul spark plugs. Also, depending on which type of gas is burned in a competition pulling engine, use only the type of spark that's recommended by the manufacturer of the engine, even if it's a high performance engine. If the wrong or a different type of plug is used, the engine might lose power, run erratically or may not start.

The E3 Spark Plug -

When using E3 spark plugs, for a stronger spark, use the copper core/non-resistor E3 spark plug(s), index it/them with the open gap facing the center of the piston, and use a high capacity/performance ignition condenser/capacitor with a high-output/performance ignition coil to produce a stronger spark for better engine performance. FYI - The blue color is made by burning of nitrogen and oxygen in the atmosphere when they are energized, and the snapping sound is breaking of the sound barrier resulting in a very tiny sonic boom released from the rapid burning and explosion of the nitrogen and oxygen.

And avoid using low cost, inferior quality or "cheapie" spark plugs! Also, since I began repairing and rebuilding small engines in 1982, I've heard great things about NGK spark plugs and how many people brag about them, but in my personal experiences, I have never had any luck with them! Personally, before installing the [correct type of] this spark plug in a B&S lawn mower engine, to remove all doubts about the strength of the ignition system, I checked to verify if it has a strong, snappy blue spark, which it would have. Then after setting the correct gap and installing the plug in the engine, the first time when priming the carburetor with gas and cranking the engine to get it started, to my surprise, it would foul-out (develop a weak, white spark)! And if the engine did start, it would only run for a few seconds before another new plug of this brand became fouled. I've had this happen with every spark plug of this brand! These spark plugs have also been known to cause a good ignition coil to fail prematurely, too! I hate to say this about a product that many claim to be superior, but it's the honest truth. They say that seeing is believing, and I believe this product to be inferior. If anyone have good results using this brand of spark plug, perhaps they should purchase a winning lottery ticket, too. [Return to previous paragraph, section or website]

What Exactly is Coil Saturation?

Basically speaking, full coil saturation is when the ignition points and condenser (or two condensers) or electronic ignition control module/unit (ICU) can deliver more voltage to the coil so it will produce a stronger spark. While electricity itself moves extremely fast, it takes time for the changing magnetic fields in a coil to develop the full potential current and voltage. In other words, electricity moves much faster than magnetism. This is a way of saying that the induced voltage (stepped up voltage) does not develop instantaneously. To keep things simple, think of the coil as an energy storage device that can be "charged up" and "discharged" in a manner similar to a battery. It takes time for the magnetic field of the secondary windings in the coil to "charge" at full RPM, a condition that is called coil saturation. Similarly, it takes time for the coil to discharge some quantity of its electrical energy as it fires a spark plug. It takes more voltage from a condenser/capacitor or virtually any electronic ignition control unit (ICU) through the primary windings within the coil to make the magnetic field stronger to produce more voltage for the secondary windings to fire the spark plug(s) at higher RPM. This allows an engine to rev up at higher RPM. When maximum current flow is present in a winding, a maximum magnetic field is present and the coil winding is considered saturated. Saturation of the primary windings only occurs if the ignition primary switching device provides a ground path long enough to allow maximum current flow (5.5 amps maximum). If a low capacity condenser/capacitor or standard ICU is used, insufficient amount of magnetic field will be induced in the secondary winds, and the engine may idle well, but as it revs up, due to the higher compression [as the throttle plate is opened more], the (weak) spark at the spark plug's tip literally gets "blown out", and the engine fails to rev up. Due to coil saturation, certain coils require two medium capacity [Kohler] ignition condensers/capacitors, or one high capacity/performance condenser/capacitor to absorb the full saturation (voltage) of the primary windings within the coil. Go here for more information: Saturation (magnetic). [Return to previous paragraph, section or website]

In most cases, if an engine is kept in perfect tune, the factory stock ignition system provides more than enough voltage for the average competition garden pulling tractor. Most conventional stock ignitions are designed to provide a strong spark up to a relatively low engine speed. With Kohler engines running in modified form, they will get up as high as 9,000 RPM. But at open RPM (wide open throttle) with the ignition points system, the points open and close so quickly that the coil's primary winding has less time to absorb voltage. This means the condenser/capacitor doesn't have enough time to rebuild the capacitance discharge. As a result, with the stock system, secondary voltage to the plug decreases and the engine won't run at open speed (wide open throttle) or it may sputter just when victory is in sight. However, for most competition garden pulling tractors, a stock ignition system that's in good condition will provide plenty of spark. NOTE: The condenser body must be securely fastened to the engine/chassis ground for the engine to run smooth. If the condenser is loose in its bracket, the bracket can be squeezed slightly with large pliers to be made oblong or egg-shape, and then the condenser will remain tight inside it. But if an engine idles well, but runs erratically above idle, like it hits and misses, pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs a new condenser/capacitor. And always install a condenser/capacitor with the wire or terminal facing down so rain water and/or when washing off engine, water will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it. Which will allow the engine to idle well, but run erratically when revved up. Click/tap here to hear what an engine with a faulty condenser/capacitor sounds like. Or better yet, upgrade/convert the engine with an A-1 Miller's maintenance-free and weather-proof battery-powered flywheel-trigger electronic ignition system for a stronger and more stable spark, quicker starts, smoother idle and overall better running engine.

There are 5 types of ignition systems that's used on all small gas engines, rather if it's a 2- or 4-cycle engine:

1. Magneto Ignition is an analog (electrical/mechanical) self-energizing ignition system with breaker points and a condenser. Breaker points are two metal contacts with a corrosion-resistant coating made of platinum, silver or tungsten, that open and close, just like an OFF and ON switch. Magneto ignition systems have breaker points, a condenser/capacitor and an armature ignition coil that generates it's own electrical energy to produce the spark every time a magnet in the flywheel or rotor w/magnet pass the coil. All self-generating magneto armature ignition coils requires a grounding-type OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes) to short circuit the primary windings in the coil to kill the spark and shut off the engine. They do not need 12 volts of power because this will burn it up. The ignition timing for the magneto ignition is the same as for the battery ignition. It's set or adjusted by widening or narrowing the gap of the breaker points. This advances or retards the ignition timing. With the engine not running, use a multimeter is switched to the Ohm () setting (make sure the battery is fully charged) or a self-powered test light in the ignition points only (the points will act as a switch) or an automotive strobe timing light (with the engine running) to set the ignition timing on a magneto system, but a 12 volt battery must be available to power the timing light. The timing light connects to the battery and spark plug wire. Because of their compactness and no need for an outside power source, magneto ignition is very popular on virtually all small engine equipment. Such as gas-powered string trimmers, chainsaws, lawn mowers, garden tillers, go-karts, riding mowers, lawn tractors, lawn & garden tractor, small motorized vehicle and small construction equipment engines. The major components of the magneto ignition system include: coil, points and condenser. How magneto coils generate a spark.
   • IMPORTANT - A 12 volt battery has absolutely nothing to do with powering a magneto ignition system. All self-energizing magneto ignition systems get their power from the magnets on the flywheel, which generates an electrical charge in the primary windings of the ignition coil. This is how the spark is made. If a battery is used to power a magneto ignition, it would burn up the coil instantly. Only battery-powered ignition systems, such as most older garden tractors, farm tractors and virtually all older (pre-1974) automobiles, etc., require a battery to energize the ignition system. And no charging system is required with a magneto ignition system. The charging system is only required to recharge the battery and provide power at open energize electrical accessories, such as the [battery-powered] ignition system, electric PTO clutch, lighting, etc.
   • NOTE: Most cast iron block and various [bigger] aluminum block air-cooled small gas engines having an obsolete magneto ignition system with ignition points and condenser/capacitor can be easily converted to battery ignition. All that's required is a condenser/capacitor that's designed for battery ignition (automotive or Kohler), a 12 volt automotive-type canister ignition coil with a bracket, an external ballast resistor (normally white ceramic block 3 to 4 inches long), if the coil requires one, a spark plug wire with terminals and boots, a 12 volt battery and wiring/connectors. The same ignition points and spark plug can be used. Due to the higher output automotive coil, the spark plug gap can be set at .035" for a stronger spark. Also, the [magneto] Off-Ignition-Start key switch will need to be changed to an Off-Ignition-Start key switch that's designed for battery ignition. Or, an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or [security] key switch, or an Off-Ignition-Start key switch to power the ignition and a push-button switch to energize the solenoid/starter motor can be used instead. And with battery ignition, the engine will need a reliable charging system to keep the battery fully charged to crank the engine and so the ignition will produce a strong spark. When converting to battery ignition, remove or disconnect the magneto coil and condenser/capacitor first. Please click here if you need a kit to convert an engine to the battery ignition system.
   • And the reason battery ignition can't be used on the smaller aluminum block Briggs & Stratton engines is because the [B&S] condenser/capacitor is part of the ignition points. For battery ignition to work, the wire on the [battery] condenser/capacitor must be connected to the negative (–) post on the [battery-powered] ignition coil, and the body of the condenser/capacitor must be grounded to the engine. Therefore, if the condenser/capacitor is separate from the ignition points, it should work. For a strong and reliable spark on the smaller aluminum block Briggs & Stratton engines with the condenser/capacitor as part of the ignition points, install a B&S's Magnetron™ electronic ignition module/sensor (only for two-post coils), or a universal electronic transistorized ignition module (for two- or three-armature coils).
     • NOTE: Sometimes the Magnetron™ module/sensor require that the magnets in the flywheel be re-polarized by Briggs & Stratton to produce a spark. But the universal electronic transistorized ignition module don't require that the flywheel magnets be re-polarized. If a spark doesn't occur, simply reverse the wire connections, then it should produce a spark. Magnetron™ doesn't work this way.
     • On engines with a magneto ignition, I believe the best thing to do is install one a universal electronic transistorized ignition module and your ignition problems should be no more. Because sometimes I too, have a hard time with ignition points and condenser/capacitor trying to get a spark from various Kohler engines with magneto ignition. Sometimes I have to set the ignition points as close as .015" just to get a spark. But this makes the timing so retarded, the engine lacks power. So I remove the ignition points and condenser/capacitor, plug the ignition points plunger hole, and install a universal electronic transistorized ignition module. The engine then has a strong spark with the use of microelectronics, starts quicker and produce a lot more power. The module sets the timing right where it needs to be. I always get a good spark with battery ignition. But magneto ignition with ignition points and condenser/capacitor can sometimes be difficult to get a spark and get the timing set right, sometimes due to a worn points lobe on the camshaft.
2. Self-Energizing Solid State Electronic Ignition is a digital (100% electronic) ignition system that require no mechanical or physical contact to activate any moving parts. It operates on the same general principle as the magneto system, but do not use breaker points to time the spark and a conventional condenser/capacitor. Instead, a trigger module containing solid state electronics performs the same function as the breaker points. Virtually any self-generating solid state armature ignition coil/module requires a grounding-type OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or [security] key switch to short circuit the primary windings in the coil to kill the spark and shut off the engine. They do not need 12 volts of power because this will burn it up. Because there are no breaker points in this system, there are no requirements for ignition timing (on a small engine). Just like magneto ignition, solid state electronic ignition is self-energizing. Therefore, it does not require an outside electrical source, such as a battery. Solid state electronic ignition is pretty much maintenance-free, with very few parts to wear out or become defective. Solid state electronic ignition is used on virtually all small engines built from 1982 to present date. The major components of the solid state ignition system include: coil and electronic module.
3. Kohler Breakerless Ignition and Tecumseh [Cast Iron Block Engine] Solid State Ignition (SSI) Systems are also a digital (100% electronic) ignition system that require no mechanical or physical contact to activate any moving parts. Breakerless ignition is a technology that is still in use today in the form of magnetic pickup coils or proximity sensors used in various small engines, general purpose and automotive engines. Kohler's Breakerless Ignition and Tecumseh's Solid State Ignitions are their version of a flywheel-trigger electronic ignition system as described further down in this website. They operate basically on the same general principle as A-1 Miller's flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition except Kohler's Breakerless Ignition and Tecumseh's Solid State Ignitions are self-generating and do not require 12 volts of power. A trigger module containing solid state electronics performs the same function as the breaker points. Because there are no breaker points in either of these systems, there are no requirements for ignition timing. The Module Sensor, as part of the Breakerless Ignition system, and Tecumseh's Solid State Electronic Module are energized by two separate windings (ignition generator coils) on the electrical system charging stator under the flywheel (if equipped on certain engines). Breakerless and Solid State Ignition are pretty much maintenance-free, with very few parts to wear out or become defective. But when they do fail, OEM replacement parts can be very expensive or may no longer be available. A-1 Miller's flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition kits can replace a defective Breakerless or Solid State Ignition system for a fraction of the cost of OEM parts, with replacement parts readily available, and may very well outlast the life of the engine. The major components of the Kohler Breakerless Ignition system include: coil and trigger module. IMPORTANT - The wire that comes from the stator under the flywheel for the Kohler Trigger Module or Tecumseh Solid State Ignition Module generates about 250 volts (seriously) while the engine is running at full governed speed. Do not touch this wire/terminal with one bare hand and the engine/equipment with your other hand while the engine is running! It is not needed for any of A-1 Miller's flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition systems, so snip off this wire or tape up the terminal to prevent a short circuit or electrocution.
4. Transistorized Ignition is the combination of an analog (electrical/mechanical) and digital (100% electronic) ignition system with breaker points. All transistorized ignition systems requires 12 volts DC negative ground. They produce a strong spark, and allow the ignition points to last longer, perhaps the life of the engine, and it requires no condenser/capacitor. It requires a 12 volt DC source (battery) to power the system. Ford Motor Company's transistorized ignition system was originally offered on various Ford vehicles from 1965 to 1972, which is no longer available. GM also offered the transistorized ignition on certain Corvette vehicles. (Click the photos to the right -> for a larger view of each.) MSD Performance also offers a transistorized breaker point ignition module that allow the ignition points to last longer. Two things to take into consideration about using a transistorized breaker point ignition system is if an engine sits for a long period of time, the ignition points contacts may become oxidized because there's not enough electrical current or "spark" that occurs between the contacts to burn away the oxidation. Another drawback is being the transistorized breaker point ignition system requires mechanical operation of the ignition points. If the ignition points lobe on the [Kohler] camshaft is worn or becomes worn overtime, this would retard the ignition timing severely, resulting in hard starting and loss of engine power. There is no way to avoid this except to install an A-1 Miller's flared-end ignition points pushrod, or a stainless steel nut can be threaded on one end of the OEM points pushrod to act as the flared end. There are also ignition products called the Trandenser II and PointSaver (which are fine products in my opinion), but these will NOT prevent the points lobe on the camshaft from possibly wearing. Besides, connecting a 1.8 Ohm ballast resistor to the coil with a 3 Ohm primary resistance or using a 4.0 Ohm coil will basically do the same thing as the Trandenser II and PointSaver. The coil will still produce a strong spark. By the way - A-1 Miller's custom-made electronic ignition systems is 100% digital and doesn't use the points lobe. The components of the transistorized ignition system include: coil, points and electronic control module.
5. Battery Ignition is an electrically-powered analog (electrical/mechanical) system with ignition points. It uses a different type of condenser/capacitor than magneto ignition, and an ignition coil that requires 12 volts DC negative ground. Battery ignition is used on most older garden tractors, farm tractors and virtually all older (pre-1974) automobiles. The major components of the battery ignition system include: coil, points and condenser. How battery-powered ignition coils work.
6. Maintenance-Free Custom-Made Flywheel- and Crank-Trigger Electronic Ignition is a 100% digital system and requires no mechanical or physical contact to activate any moving parts. It's a combination of the breakerless and battery ignition because it has no breaker points or condenser/capacitor but does require a 12 volt DC source (battery) to power the ignition coil and an electronic ignition control module/unit (ICU). Virtually all large engines (farm tractors and automobiles) that's built from the mid-1970s use flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition. FYI - The electronic ignition control modules that's mentioned in this website are designed for older automobiles with a mechanical timing advance (flyweights) built into the distributor. The newer control modules that retards and advances the ignition timing use multiple sensors, one to tell the module that the engine isn't running. Therefore, it retards the timing (at TDC) so the engine will start easier. And another sensor to send the signal that the engine is running, and then another sensor to advance the timing (several degrees BTDC) so the engine will produce full power. The distributor for these don't have (or require) mechanical timing flyweights. The major components of the flywheel- and crank-trigger electronic ignition system include: coil, magnetic pickup coil or proximity sensor and electronic control module.

By the way - for a pulling tractor that has engine-mounted starter motor but no charging system, it's best to use a quality-made automotive battery. Not only because an automotive battery holds a charge longer to crank even the highest compression engine after several pulls, they can provide plenty of power to a battery-powered ignition system for a stronger spark for better engine performance.

Information about Ignition Coils -

Some ignition coils have an internal resistor, while others rely on an external ballast resistor (normally white ceramic block 3 to 4 inches long) or a resistor wire (in the wiring circuit) to limit the current flowing through the primary windings within the coil from the 12-volt power source. Various standard-output/stock ignition coils and most high-output/performance ignition coils require a minimum 1.5 Ohm ballast resistor (originally came on all 1955-57 General Motors vehicles, all 1953-85 Chrysler, Dodge and Plymouth (MOPAR) vehicles, various 1956-75 Ford, Lincoln and Mercury vehicles, including various makes and models of other older vehicles) or a GM or Ford full-length ignition resistor wire when used with a ignition points and condenser/capacitor ignition system to prevent excessive burning of the ignition points contacts. The 1.4± Ohm voltage-reducing wire came on all 1958-74 GM vehicles and various 1969-91 Ford vehicles, and connects between the ignition terminal on the fuse block to the positive (+) coil terminal. A ballast resistor or ignition resistor wire is basically a voltage reducer that reduces 12 volts down to anywhere between 8 to 10-1/2 volts, depending on the load.

According to the extensive research I've performed, the primary Ohm () resistance in the most common battery-powered ignition coils are as follows:

• 6 volt early model (up until 1954) automotive/farm tractor coil used with a distributor-type points and condenser ignition system: 1.0 Ohm.
• 12 volt later model (1955-1974) standard-output/stock automotive/farm tractor coil used with a distributor-type points and condenser ignition system: 1.5 Ohm. (With a ballast resistor or resistor wire.)
• 12 volt high-output/performance automotive coils used with an electronic/computerized ignition system (1975+): 0.3, 0.4, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 1.5 or 3.0 Ohm.
• 12 volt standard-output/stock single post (single cylinder) small engine coil used with points and condenser ignition system: 3.0 or 4.0 Ohm.
• 12 volt standard-output/stock dual post (twin cylinder) small engine coils used with points and condenser ignition system: 3.0, 4.0 or 5.0 Ohm.

Most canister-type ignition coils look the same on the outside. If a coil reads "12 VOLTS" on its casing, this doesn't necessary mean that it's for a 12 volt ignition system. Some coils may read 12 VOLTS, but it's actually for a 6 volt ignition system. (Mislabeled coil.) Therefore, it's best to test the coil's internal primary Ohm resistance to make sure.

To test for the continually of an ignition coil (to see if it's in good condition), use a multimeter switched to the Ohm () setting. Insert one of the multimeter's probes into the spark plug terminal of the coil, contacting the metal inside the terminal. Touch the second probe of the meter to the ignition coil's negative (–) terminal. (This is the one not connected to the primary resistor.) Depending on the type of coil (magneto, small size, standard output or high output/performance), the meter should read 6,000 to 15,000 Ohms. If it does not, the coil's secondary winding is faulty.

And the Ohm resistance value of most common ballast resistors used for ignition systems come in: 0.8, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6 and 1.8. Keep in mind when testing a coil or ballast resistor, the resistance can vary more or less (±) by 1.0 Ohm.

A ballast resistor may not be needed with many new coils because most of them nowadays have an internal resistor. But with A-1 Miller's flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition, a coil without an internal resistor, rather if it's a standard-output/stock or high-output/performance coil, is required to produce full volts to the spark plug. And using a resistor effects the voltage output of the coil very little. It only prevents premature burning of the ignition points contacts. The reason manufacturers don't install a resistor inside some high-output/performance ignition coils is because these coils draw more amps from the battery or charging system. Most stock/standard output coils draws approximately 3 amps, and most high-output/performance coils can draw up to 6 amps under full compression. This cause the resistor to operate at a higher temperature, which could overheat and damage the windings within the coil. If a high-output/performance ignition coil is preferred, when purchasing one, be sure to ask the salesperson if it have an internal resistor or if it requires an external resistor. This is important for the life of the ignition points. The absence of the resistor will, without a doubt, increase voltage to the spark plugs, and will likely reduce the life of the ignition points in a mechanical ignition points ignition system. The plastic lever that one half of the ignition points contacts is fasten to could also melt or become deformed due to the excessive heat from the high voltage going through the ignition points in absence of a ballast resistor. This especially happens when a GM DIS (Distributorless Ignition System) coil or a 6 volt coil is used in a 12 volt system without a 1.6 Ohm ballast resistor connected to reduce the voltage. And a high-output/performance ignition coil has no effect whatsoever with A-1 Miller's flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition when using a GM 4-pin HEI (High Energy Ignition) 4-pin, Chrysler (w/ballast resistor) or Ford electronic ignition control module/unit (ICU). But the Chrysler control module requires a ballast resistor to prevent from burning up. Also, most stock coils produce more than enough voltage when used with even the hottest high performance engines, especially with A-1 Miller's flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition.

How to Test a Battery-Powered Ignition Coil to Find if it's in Good Condition to Produce a Strong Spark -

First of all, the armature or metal casing on a battery-powered ignition coils do not need to be connected to the engine or chassis ground (which connects to the negative (–) battery post). And on a battery-powered ignition coil, the primary windings is connected from the positive (+) terminal (which connects to the positive (+) battery post), and the coil negative (–) terminal connects to the ignition points and condenser. The ignition points and condenser must be grounded to the engine or chassis (which connects to the negative (–) battery post). The primary windings is also connected through an internal resistor to the secondary windings and to the spark plug, which is grounded. This is how coils complete the circuit to make a spark. One way to test the primary windings in a coil to find if it's in good condition is with a digital multimeter (DMM, DVOM) and for the most accurate reading, select the 200 Ohm () setting. On most digital multimeters, resistance is denoted by the capital Greek letter Omega (), which stand for Ohm. (Named after Georg Ohm.) IMPORTANT - For an accurate reading, make sure the battery in the digital multimeter is fully charged, and the digital multimeter and the part to be tested are warmed to room temperature (72°F). The accuracy of testing a coil is more complicated when performed with an analog multimeter. But not all coils will test good this way! With certain coils, the secondary windings will show no resistance, which will be a false indication that it's a defective coil. Therefore, the best way to test a coil to find if it's in good condition to produce a strong spark is to connect it in an ignition system or bench test it. To bench test a coil, use three jumper wires with alligator clips, a fully charged 12 volt battery, a battery-powered ignition condenser, and preferably a metal core spark plug wire and a known good spark plug. Ignition points are not required and is irrelevant in performing this type of test. Connect the wires as follows, then observe for spark:

1. Insert the spark plug wire in the coil and on the spark plug terminal, and connect the negative (–) battery post to the spark plug body, or allow the plug to rest on a clean and rust-free bare metal bench/table top if it's being used as the battery negative (–) ground.
2. Connect the positive (+) battery post to the positive (+) coil terminal. NOTE: If the two small terminals on the coil aren't marked (+) and (–), then connect the wires to either terminal. The coil's metal casing/frame does not need to be grounded.
3. Connect the lead on the condenser to the negative (–) coil terminal and connect the body of the condenser to the battery negative (–) ground.
4. Momentarily make contact with a jumper wire from the negative (–) coil terminal to the battery negative (–) ground. This simulates the opening and closing of the ignition points. A spark should occur at the spark plug's tip each time the jumper wire taps the ground. If no spark, then the coil is defective or recheck the connections. NOTE - A high-output/performance coil will produce a noticeably snappier-sounding and stronger blue spark than a standard-output/stock coil. FYI - The blue color is made by burning of nitrogen and oxygen in the atmosphere when they are energized, and the snapping sound is breaking of the sound barrier resulting in a very tiny sonic boom released from the rapid burning and explosion of the nitrogen and oxygen.

Metal Core Conductor Spark Plug Wires VS Suppression/Carbon Core Spark Plug Wires, and Non-Resistor/Copper Core Spark Plugs VS Resistor-Type Spark Plugs - (Added 2/26/20)

Copper or metal core spark plug wires provide 100% voltage to the spark plug at all times for a strong, blue spark to thoroughly burn the fuel in the combustion chamber! Most OEM automotive or brightly-colored coil-to-spark plug wires have a suppression/carbon core, which deliver about 40%-50% voltage to the spark plug at peak demand, which is at wide open throttle engine operation. Anyway, when testing the resistance of a metal core conductor spark plug wire versus a suppression/carbon core spark plug wire with an Ohm meter, the meter will show no resistance with the metal core conductor wire, but it will show about half (40%-50%) of resistance with a suppression/carbon core wire. It takes about 10,000-12,000 volts to fire the average spark plug in an engine when under a heavy load at wide open throttle. Therefore, most high-output/performance ignition coils that produce a minimum of 30,000 volts, like the ones used in most automobiles, are able to fire a [quality made] suppression/carbon core spark plug wire and a resistor-type spark plug with no problem, because only about half the voltage from the coil goes through the wire and to the plug. But if a [quality made] suppression/carbon core spark plug wire and a resistor-type spark plug is used with a standard output ignition coil that produce 15,000-20,000 volts, like the ones used on most small engines and early automobiles with point ignition, it may not be able to successfully fire the plug under full compression (wide open throttle), and the engine may misfire. This is why ALL magneto/solid state small engine armature ignition coils and early automobiles with point ignition use metal core spark plug wires and a coil-to-distributor wire, and Kohler uses metal core conductor spark plug wire(s) with a compact- or standard-size canister ignition coil. If a metal core conductor spark plug wire and copper core/non-resistor spark plug is used with a high-output/performance ignition coil, such as the popular Bosch blue coil or a high-output/performance coil, the coil will only produce 10,000-12,000 to fire the plug. It will NEVER produce the maximum voltage it was designed for through the metal core wire and copper core plug. even when the engine is under a heavy load at wide open throttle. Only most factory automotive engines since 1974 with electronic ignition use a high-output coil, suppression/carbon core spark plug wires and resistor-type spark plugs. The reason suppression/carbon core spark plug wires and resistor-type spark plugs are used is because these eliminate high frequency radio-air-waves, which cause static (rapid tick-tick-tick sound) on most in-car radios and TVs with an antenna when you drive by a house. Single- or twin-cylinder small engines with only one or two metal core spark plug wires don't produce enough radio-air-waves to cause static on most radios and TVs. When used often, it's a well-known fact that most suppression/carbon core spark plug wires deteriorate or "break down" overtime. They lose their ability to maintain maximum voltage to the spark plug(s), even when used with a high-output/performance coil. But a metal core conductor spark plug wire will never lose voltage. It will last indefinitely. Many competition pullers that use a [fancy looking, brightly-colored] suppression/carbon core spark plug wire really believe they're going to go further down the track, when actually they're just defeating the purpose.

Self-energizing small engine magneto armature ignition coils and battery-powered coils with either points and condenser or electronic ignition must be used with a metal core conductor spark plug wire and a copper core/non-resistor spark plug. Most automobiles with electronic ignition have suppression/carbon core spark plug wires only to prevent interference of sensitive electronic components and [AM/FM] radio static. However, if a suppression/carbon core spark plug wire and/or a resistor type spark plug is used with a magneto or battery-powered ignition coil, the coil may operate at a much higher than normal temperature (too hot to the touch), and either the coil will fail or the engine will idle well, but hesitate to rev up at high RPM due to the high resistance in the suppression/carbon core spark plug wire and/or a resistor type spark plug. And avoid using a suppression/carbon core spark plug wire with an electronic ignition system on a small engine! The reason being is if the suppression/carbon core spark plug wire becomes extremely weak and deteriorated with very high resistance, this can cause the ignition coil and possibly the electronic ignition control module to burn up.

How to Test the Strength of an Ignition Coil -

First of all, I think the inline ignition spark plug tester that connects between the spark plug and spark plug wire should not be used to test for spark! (Personally, I think this is the most ridiculous spark tester I have ever seen.) The reason being is if the spark plug itself is defective, the inline ignition spark plug tester will show a false indication that the entire ignition system is malfunctioning. And a good spark plug will show only if the ignition system is working or not. It will not show the strength of the ignition system or ignition coil. Therefore, a simple and accurate way to test for spark (and/or the condition of the spark plug) is to remove the spark plug, reattach the spark plug wire on the spark plug, place the spark plug on a bare metal part of the engine or chassis so it'll make good contact, then crank the engine and at the same time, observe for spark at the spark plug's tip. (May have to perform this test in the shade because it may be hard to see the spark in bright sunlight.) An ignition system in good condition is supposed to produce a strong, snappy blue spark. (FYI - The blue color is made by burning of nitrogen and oxygen in the atmosphere when they are energized, and the snapping sound is breaking of the sound barrier resulting in a very tiny sonic boom released from the rapid burning and explosion of the nitrogen and oxygen.) If the spark is visibly white or red in color, either the spark plug is fouled (from excessive raw fuel or oil burning) or has deteriorated (from excessive use), the ignition points contacts are burnt or dirty, suppression/carbon core spark plug wire has deteriorated (if used), or the ignition coil may be weak and needs replacing. To test the strength of the ignition system, it's best use either a fixed ignition spark tester or an adjustable ignition strength tester, like the ones in the photo to the right ->. These connect between the spark plug wire and engine/chassis ground. The fixed ignition spark tester works great for self-energizing magneto and solid state electronic, and battery-powered ignition systems with a standard-output/stock coil to see if the ignition system is adequate to make a strong spark, but the adjustable ignition strength tester can be used to test and measure the voltage output of the ignition coil. The spark of a typical self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system in excellent condition will jump a gap of approximately 5/8" (10,000-12,000 volts), and the spark of a typical battery-powered ignition points/condenser, crank-trigger or flywheel-trigger electronic ignition systems with a standard-output/stock coil in excellent condition will jump a gap of approximately 3/4" (20,000 volts), but the spark of a typical battery-powered ignition points/condenser, crank-trigger or flywheel-trigger electronic ignition systems with a high-output/performance coil in excellent condition will jump a gap of approximately 1-1/4" (30,000-40,000 volts). FYI - It takes 1,000,000 volts to jump a gap of 30 feet.

Engines with a ignition points and condenser/capacitor magneto ignition system can be cranked over slowly to produce a spark. But most engines with a solid state electronic ignition (B&S's Magnetron™) must be cranked over quickly to produce a spark. However, on engines with battery ignition, there's really no need to crank the engine to check for spark. What can be done is momentarily and lightly connect the ignition points contacts with a small metal object, such as the tip of a screwdriver.

FYI - If the spark plug's tip is black and/or has wet gas on it, and if the carburetor has been thoroughly cleaned (multiple times), but you think the problem is still in the carburetor, well, the carburetor is probably working fine because the engine is obviously getting plenty of fuel. As an older, experienced mechanic once said: "Sometimes carburetor problems are electrical." Meaning a faulty/weak ignition system. There is also another old saying: "Sometimes ignition problems are mechanical." Meaning a loose or poor wiring connection, or a faulty ignition switch. [Return to previous paragraph, section or website]

No Spark Situation on a Small Engine -

Self-Energizing Magneto Ignition with Points and Condenser/Capacitor -

1. Need to rule out all possibilities first! Remove and test the condition of the original spark plug in the engine. With the spark plug wire connected, place the spark plug on a metal engine part, and while cranking the engine, observe for spark at the spark plug's tip. If there's a red or white spark, then the spark plug is definitely fouled and needs replacing. But if there's no spark, then the spark plug may or may not be fouled, or the ignition system may be faulty.
2. Use a new copper core spark plug to test for spark. The new spark plug should have a strong, snappy blue spark. Or connect the spark plug wire to a fixed ignition spark tester or an adjustable ignition strength tester to check for spark. For a magneto ignition system that's in excellent condition with points and condenser, the spark should jump a gap of about 5/8" or 3/4" (10,000-12,000 volts), depending on manufacturer of coil.
3. If no spark, check for a sheared aluminum flywheel key. Install new key if sheared.
4. If still no spark, check the condition of the ignition wiring (kill wire), spark plug wire, ignition switch, safety switches and for correct or faulty connections.
5. If still no spark, check if the magnet on the flywheel is cracked. If it is, then the flywheel will need to be replaced.
6. If still no spark, clean the points contacts or replace the points if excessively worn or burnt. FYI - Sometimes oxidation will form on new points contacts from sitting in storage, even when wrapped in plastic. This happens A LOT with small engine and automotive ignition points. Therefore, while the points are closed under pressure, use a clean steel fingernail file or ignition points file to remove any oxidation/debris between the contacts, then drag a piece of clean lint-free paper through the contacts to remove any left-over residue, and use brake parts cleaner, electrical/electronic contact cleaner, cleaning solvent or paint thinner (these leave no oily residue) and then use 150± psi compressed air with an air blow gun nozzle to clean any remaining debris and metal filings from the contacts. This will guarantee 100% connection with the points. Do not use sanding material, such as sandpaper or emery cloth, to clean any electrical contacts! These will leave a gritty residue between the contacts, causing a faulty connection.
7. If still no spark, check that the ignition points gap is set at .020" with a feeler gauge, or the ignition timing is set at 20º BTDC. In rare cases, when cranking the engine and the ignition points don't open enough or don't open at all, the ignition points lobe on the camshaft may be excessively worn.
8. If still no spark, check that the condenser/capacitor is connected to the same wire coming from the coil to the ignition points.
9. If still no spark, check that the coil's ground wire is connected to engine/chassis ground.
10. If still no spark, the ignition points, condenser/capacitor, spark plug, spark plug wire or coil may need replacing.
11. If still no spark, or if the engine runs poorly or will idle but will not rev up, everything with the ignition system checks out great and all hope is lost, convert the engine for use with a battery-powered or custom-made electronic ignition system.

Self-Energizing Solid State Electronic Ignition -

1. Need to rule out all possibilities first! Remove and test the condition of the original spark plug in the engine. With the spark plug wire connected, place the spark plug on a metal engine part, and while cranking the engine, observe for spark at the spark plug's tip. If there's a red or white spark, then the spark plug is definitely fouled and needs replacing. But if there's no spark, then the spark plug may or may not be fouled, or the ignition system may be faulty.
2. Use a new copper core spark plug to test for spark. The new spark plug should have a strong, snappy blue spark. Or connect the spark plug wire to a fixed ignition spark tester or an adjustable ignition strength tester to check for spark. For a solid state ignition system that's in excellent condition, the spark should jump a gap of about 5/8" or 3/4" (10,000-12,000 volts), depending on manufacturer of coil.
3. If no spark, test the condition of the ignition wiring (kill wire), spark plug wire, ignition switch, safety switches and for correct or faulty connections. FYI - if the solid state ignition system is in good condition, the engine will still produce a spark even with a sheared aluminum flywheel key.
4. If still no spark, check that the kill wire coming from the coil/module isn't grounded to the engine or a metal part.
5. If still no spark, check if the magnet on the flywheel is cracked. If it is, then the flywheel will need to be replaced.
6. If still no spark, the solid state electronic armature ignition coil with molded-in module may need replacing.

Battery-Powered Ignition with Points and Condenser/Capacitor -

1. Need to rule out all possibilities first! Remove and test the condition of the original spark plug in the engine. With the spark plug wire connected, place the spark plug on a metal engine part, and while cranking the engine, observe for spark at the spark plug's tip. If there's a red or white spark, then the spark plug is definitely fouled and needs replacing. But if there's no spark, then the spark plug may or may not be fouled, or the ignition system may be faulty.
2. Always use a new copper core spark plug to test for spark. The new spark plug should have a strong, snappy blue spark. Or connect the spark plug wire to a fixed ignition spark tester or an adjustable ignition strength tester to check for spark.
   • For a self-energizing magneto or battery-powered ignition system that's in excellent condition with a compact epoxy-encapsulated 12 volt ignition coil with an integrated metal core spark plug wire, the spark should jump a gap of about 5/8" or 3/4" (10,000-12,000 volts), depending on manufacturer of coil.
   • For a battery-powered ignition system that's in excellent condition with a full size stock canister coil with a metal core spark plug wire, the spark should jump a gap of about 3/4" (15,000-20,000 volts).
   • For a battery-powered ignition system that's in excellent condition with a high-output/performance coil with a metal core spark plug wire, the spark should jump a gap of about 1-1/4" (30,000-40,000 volts).
3. If no spark, check the condition of the ignition wiring, spark plug wire, ignition switch, safety switches and for correct or faulty connections.
4. If still no spark, check if there's full 12 volts going to the coil.
5. If still no spark, sometimes oxidation will form on new points contacts from sitting in storage, even when wrapped in plastic. This happens A LOT with small engine and automotive ignition points. Therefore, while the points are closed under pressure, use a clean steel fingernail file or ignition points file to remove any oxidation/debris between the contacts, then drag a piece of clean lint-free paper through the contacts to remove any left-over residue, and use brake parts cleaner, electrical/electronic contact cleaner, cleaning solvent or paint thinner (these leave no oily residue) and then use 150± psi compressed air with an air blow gun nozzle to clean any remaining debris and metal filings from the contacts. This will guarantee 100% connection with the points. Do not use sanding material, such as sandpaper or emery cloth, to clean any electrical contacts! These will leave a gritty residue between the contacts, causing a faulty connection.
6. If still no spark, check that the ignition points gap is set at .020" with a feeler gauge, or the ignition timing is set at 20º BTDC. In rare cases, when cranking the engine and the ignition points don't open enough or don't open at all, the ignition points lobe on the camshaft may be excessively worn.
7. If still no spark, check that the condenser/capacitor is connected to the same wire coming from the coil to the ignition points.
8. If still no spark, the ignition points, condenser/capacitor, spark plug, spark plug wire or coil may need replacing.

Weak or No Spark Situation on a V-Twin Small Engine (Briggs & Stratton Vanguard, Generac, Honda, Kawasaki, Kohler Command, etc.) - (Added 10/25/17)

If there's a strong, snappy blue spark at the spark plug's tip, and the engine will not start, then need to rule out all possibilities first. So first of all, it's best to check for a sheared flywheel key. Because the last person who replaced the flywheel may not have cleaned the flywheel and crankshaft tapers, which could cause the flywheel to slip on the crankshaft. This will make the ignition out of time with the engine. But if the flywheel key is in good condition, try disconnecting the kill wires from the armature ignition coils and see if the coils produce a spark. Of the coils connects to a module, it could be bad. Or maybe something is grounding out the ignition kill wire(s). If there's still a weak or no spark, then the armature ignition coils are obviously bad. The magnet in the flywheel rarely get weak. So there's really no need to worry about it. And if replacement OEM coils or ignition parts are no longer available, the only thing to do is convert the engine to 12 volt battery-powered crank-trigger or flywheel-trigger electronic ignition system. The embedded magnet in the flywheel can be used to energize a couple of hall effect proximity sensors. An adapter bracket will need to be fabricated to mount the proximity sensors in place of each coil. And two ignition coils will need to be used, one for each cylinder. And chances are, the engine has an automatic compression release, so the ignition timing can be set at 16º± BTDC (depending on the engine). A degree wheel, dial indicator and piston stop will need to be used to indicate exactly where the spark needs to occur so the timing can be set precisely for each piston.

Typical Battery Ignition Points and Condenser/Capacitor Ignition System for a Garden Tractor

If the ignition coil has an internal resistor, connect the wires as shown below...

But if the coil require an external resistor (ballast resistor), connect the wires as shown below...

[Return to previous paragraph, section or website]

All conventional point-ignition systems that's installed on most older garden tractors and automotive engines utilizes a standard-output/stock [20,000 volt] coil. And all automotive (distributor) electronic ignition systems utilize a high-output/performance (40,000 volt) coil. The obvious and visual differences in these coils is by the height of the center tower. The standard-output/stock coil has a shorter center tower. In most cases, it's not capable of producing enough volts to short out (jump) to the small terminals. And all high-output/performance coils have a taller tower, to keep the spark from shorting or jumping to the small terminals. Most standard-output/stock battery-powered canister ignition coils that's designed for a small engine, such as Kohler, Tecumseh, etc., have a 3.0, 4.0 or 5.0 Ohm internal primary resistor. And most standard-output/stock coils that's designed for a ignition points/distributor-type ignition system (automotive, farm tractor, etc.) have a 1.5 Ohm internal primary resistor. And most high-output/performance coils for electronic/distributor-type ignition systems or Distributorless Ignition System (DIS) have a 0.4 Ohm internal primary resistor. The size of the resistor allow for full coil saturation so the ignition points will last longer and so the engine will rev up at open speed (wide open throttle), and if it's for crank-trigger or flywheel-trigger electronic ignition, to prevent from burning up the control module.

Virtually all canister coils look the same on the outside. The only sure way to tell what the Ohm resistance for virtually any ignition coil is with a multimeter switched to the Ohm (d) setting. But some coils are marked with printing on the casing to indicate their Ohm resistance, and sometimes the wording may not be accurate, or it may read: "Use With External Resistor". But it does not say the size Ohm resistance of the external/ballast resistor that should be used. So when replacing a coil or when purchasing a new coil for any particular engine or ignition system, ALWAYS test the value of the Ohm resistance to be 100% certain that the coil will be suitable for the ignition system it is designed for. Being virtually all ignition coils (and ballast resistors) look alike and there's no indication on them of their Ohm resistance, before purchasing a new coil (or ballast resistor), take a digital multimeter in the small engine shop, auto parts store, farm & home store, etc. with you and test the item for its Ohm resistance just to make sure you get what you pay for. Click/tap here to learn how to test the Ohm resistance in a coil.

If you've ever experienced the metal strap on a 12 volt canister ignition coil of breaking due to normal engine vibration (especially at open RPM (wide open throttle) and because the metal itself is too thin, then what you need to do is either fabricate a strap made of thicker metal, or install two coil straps as shown in the photo to the right ->, and be sure to fasten the straps securely. This will double the life of the clamps and lessen the chances of either strap of ever breaking again.

Ever had a good run going down the track and all of a sudden the engine dies, and you found the cause was the [failed] ignition coil? Well, chances are, it wasn't designed for use on a competition garden pulling tractor, especially when the engine is ran at wide open throttle. Even new oil-filled canister coils have been known to fail in a very short time on a competition garden pulling tractor. The reason some coils fail is due to normal single cylinder engine vibration running at open RPM. The tiny wires (or windings) inside the coil will vibrate and break over time. Even the insulation on the windings themselves will "rub" or scrape against the other internal wires, resulting in a short, and eventual coil failure. That's why it's best to use an epoxy filled or epoxy-encapsulated coil that can withstand high engine vibrations to prevent the windings from vibrating, shorting out and/or breaking. The epoxy holds the wires solid, resulting in no vibration of the windings whatsoever. Most epoxy coils produce up to 45,000 volts, too. So for the little difference in price, accept no substitutes! Epoxy coils are most reliable for use on a competition garden pulling tractor. To prevent prematurely burning the ignition points, it's best to check the coil with a digital multimeter to determine if it require an external resistor or not.

A coil with a 1.0 Ohm internal primary resistor works great in a 6 volt ignition system to prevent premature burning of the ignition points contacts. A coil with a 1.5 Ohm internal primary resistor connected to a 1.4 Ohm ballast resistor or resistor wire works great with a distributor/point ignition system to prevent premature burning of the ignition points contacts. And a coil with a 3.0+ Ohm internal primary resistor works great for a small engine with ignition points & condenser to prevent premature burning of the ignition points contacts. And coil with a 0.4 Ohm internal primary resistor works great with self-energizing solid state electronic, or crank-trigger or flywheel-trigger electronic ignition systems, that's mentioned further down in this website.

Virtually any ignition coil with a 1.0 Ohm internal resistor or a GM DIS (Distributorless Ignition System) coil can be safely used in a 6 volt ignition system without a ballast resistor or ignition resistor wire. But to use a 6 volt coil in a 12 volt ignition system, simply use a minimum 1.2 Ohm ballast resistor in series between the power supply and positive (+) coil terminal to reduce the voltage to the coil and current through the ignition points. The coil should produce a strong spark, operate cool to the touch and last longer. The ignition points should last a long time, too. To check if a coil is rather for 6 volts (and can be used in a 12 volt ignition system with a ballast resistor) or for 12 volts, perform the test below Ê.

A battery-powered ignition coil with a primary resistance of 0.6 Ohm is most definitely a high-output/performance coil with an output of about 30,000-45,000 volts and the primaries must be switched electronically as that coil will draw around 20 amps. Coils that are around 2.5 to 3.0 Ohm are internally ballasted and don't need an external ballast resistor, and have medium voltage output of about 15-35,000 volts. Coils between 4 and 6 Ohm are also internally ballasted and do not require a ballast resistor, and have low voltage output of about 12,000-20,000 volts.

Primary resistance is a function of impedance and the lower it is, the faster the rise and fall time of the primary magnetic field and the greater its strength, causing a much higher induced voltage at the secondary winding. ignition points can only handle about 3 amps continuously and thereby put a limit on the coil's output by restricting the primary resistance to 4 or 5 Ohm. A ballast resistor is a way of allowing the use of a much lower impedance coil (1.5 Ohm) without letting the primary current get too high and burning the ignition points contacts. This almost doubles the coil's output, which, in turn allow for wider plug gaps, so that it can ignite much richer fuel mixtures with the more energetic spark.

Ballast and ignition resistors with a higher Ohm value are known as "Point Savers." The higher the Ohm primary resistance an ignition resistor has, being if it's a ballast resistor and/or a resistor inside an ignition coil, the longer the ignition points contacts will last (as long as the ignition points/contacts are installed clean, and doesn't become contaminated with dust, oil or water). A 12 volt ignition coil with a 3.0 Ohm internal primary resistor connected to a 1.6 Ohm ballast resistor (highest value ballast resistor available) when used in a ignition points ignition system will allow the ignition points contacts to possibly last the life of the engine. And just one medium capacity [Kohler] condenser/capacitor can be used. Install the 1.6 Ohm ballast resistor between the coil positive (+) terminal and wire coming from the ignition switch to the coil. This will allow the ignition points to possibly last the life of the engine. Because the increased resistance allow a very low current (flow of electricity) pass through the ignition points contacts, resulting in much less electrical arcing of the contacts. This will drastically reduce the premature burning away of the platinum coating on the ignition points contacts. Also, a suppression/carbon core spark plug wire and resistor type spark plug shouldn't be used in this system due to overheating of the ignition coil. Therefore, it's best that a metal core conductor spark plug wire and copper core/non-resistor spark plug be used. The ignition system will still provide a strong spark because an average small engine requires only a fraction of voltage from the coil. And this is best used with general lawn & garden, snow removal, etc. equipment engines, and not for competition pulling.

All automotive high-output/performance or OEM electronic ignition coils, including the popular 12 volt Bosch blue coil with an internal resistor, have more secondary wire windings than in a standard-output/stock coil. This is how they produce more voltage to create a stronger spark. When used with a ignition points and condenser/capacitor ignition system, the energy of the primary windings within the coil is transferred in the condenser/capacitor. And in most cases, one medium capacity condenser/capacitor isn't capable of handling the excessive amount of electricity from the primary windings at open energize the secondary windings within the coil, thus allowing the coil to produce a low voltage or weak spark at any RPM, which will cause the engine to idle poorly and run poorly. Sometimes when using a high-output/performance ignition coil with one medium capacity (Kohler) condenser/capacitor, black smoke will blow out the exhaust at idle and flames will shoot out the exhaust at open RPM (wide open throttle).

For a high-output/performance ignition system operate at 100% efficiency and produce more voltage at any RPM, it's best to use two medium capacity ignition condensers/capacitors or one high capacity/performance condenser/capacitor. Using either two standard capacity (Kohler) condensers/capacitors or one high capacity/performance condenser/capacitor will allow the engine to idle better, run smoother, and produce more power at open RPM. When using 2 condensers, connect the wire of each condenser to the negative terminal on the coil and ground the bodies of the condensers. If an engine is built right, the ignition timing is set correct, and if the carburetor is adjusted correctly, with two medium capacity (Kohler) condensers/capacitors or one high capacity/performance condenser/capacitor, the exhaust (appearance) should be cleaner at idle, and with no flames at open RPM. A stock or standard-output/stock coil will not produce more voltage than what it is designed for with two medium capacity (Kohler) condensers/capacitors or one high capacity/performance condenser/capacitor. But it will produce 100% voltage with two medium capacity (Kohler) condensers/capacitors or one high capacity/performance condenser/capacitor. And with A-1 Miller's flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition, if an electronic ignition control module/unit (ICU) with a high capacity transistor is used, a standard-output/stock or high-output/performance coil will produce 100% voltage regardless. And if you're wondering, any type of ignition points can be used with virtually any type of coil and condenser/capacitor.

NOTE: The condenser body must be securely fastened to the engine/chassis ground for the engine to run smooth. If the condenser is loose in its bracket, the bracket can be squeezed slightly with large pliers to be made oblong or egg-shape, and then the condenser will remain tight inside it. But if an engine idles well, but runs erratically above idle, like it hits and misses, pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs a new condenser/capacitor. And always install a condenser/capacitor with the wire or terminal facing down so rain water and/or when washing off engine, water will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it. Which will allow the engine to idle well, but run erratically when revved up. Click/tap here to hear what an engine with a faulty condenser/capacitor sounds like. Or better yet, upgrade/convert the engine with an A-1 Miller's maintenance-free and weather-proof battery-powered flywheel-trigger electronic ignition system for a stronger and more stable spark, quicker starts, smoother idle and overall better running engine.

When choosing a high-output/performance ignition coil, such as a Chrysler electronic ignition canister coil, if it reads on the casing: "use with electronic ignition" (or something like this), all this means is if the coil is used with full 12 volts, and with ignition points and [one standard capacity] condenser/capacitor, the ignition points contacts will not last long and burn up prematurely due to the higher voltage going through them. To use the coil, simply install a [1.6 Ohm resistance] ballast resistor before the coil to decrease the voltage going through the coil and the ignition points, and the ignition points should last longer. And definitely use two medium capacity ignition condensers/capacitors or one high capacity/performance condenser/capacitor so the coil will produce more voltage. (When using 2 condensers, connect the wire of each condenser to the negative terminal on the coil and ground the bodies of the condensers.) NOTE: The condenser body must be securely fastened to the engine/chassis ground for the engine to run smooth. If the condenser is loose in its bracket, the bracket can be squeezed slightly with large pliers to be made oblong or egg-shape, and then the condenser will remain tight inside it. But if an engine idles well, but runs erratically above idle, like it hits and misses, pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs a new condenser/capacitor. And always install a condenser/capacitor with the wire or terminal facing down so rain water and/or when washing off engine, water will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it. Which will allow the engine to idle well, but run erratically when revved up. Click/tap here to hear what an engine with a faulty condenser/capacitor sounds like. Or better yet, upgrade/convert the engine with an A-1 Miller's maintenance-free and weather-proof battery-powered flywheel-trigger electronic ignition system for a stronger and more stable spark, quicker starts, smoother idle and overall better running engine.

Causes of Engine "Popping" or Backfire -

• Popping out the carburetor is usually the result of a lean air/fuel mixture.
• Popping out the exhaust is probably because of a weak spark. If you're using a high performance ignition coil, then two medium capacity (Kohler) condensers/capacitors or one high capacity/performance (automotive) condenser/capacitor is required so the coil can produce more voltage to the spark plug. (When using 2 condensers, connect the wire of each condenser to the negative terminal on the coil and ground the bodies of the condensers.)
• The condenser body must be securely fastened to the engine/chassis ground for the engine to run smooth. If the condenser is loose in its bracket, the bracket can be squeezed slightly with large pliers to be made oblong or egg-shape, and then the condenser will remain tight inside it. But if an engine idles well, but runs erratically above idle, like it hits and misses, pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs a new condenser/capacitor. Click/tap here to hear what an engine with a defective condenser/capacitor sounds like.

Causes of Most Ignition Coil Failures - Most battery-powered ignition coils will last the life of an engine. However, if a quality coil keeps going bad for no apparent reason, here are the reasons that can cause this...

• Use of suppression/carbon-core spark plug wire(s). Only metal core spark plug wire(s) should be used on a small engine.
• Defective analog (electrical/mechanical) or solid state (100% electronic) voltage rectifier/regulator. If the charging system continues to charge with no gradual moving back of the needle to zero on an analog ammeter/amp gauge (if installed) while the engine is running at full governed speed, this will put too much voltage throughout the entire electrical system, including the coil, which will eventually burn out the primary windings within the coil. Overcharging of the charging system could also burn up the electronic ignition control module/unit (ICU) used with a crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic system, burn up the battery (cause the acid to boil), burn out light bulbs, electric PTO clutch and any other electrical accessories. Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging system. Having an amp gauge installed is very important in monitoring the charging system to prevent premature failure of electrical components. By the time you smell something burning or see smoke, it may be too late.
• If a garden tractor or small engine equipment is equipped with an automotive battery, it may have a dead cell or all the cells may be weak (defective battery.) Unlike in an automobile, and if the starter motor is in good condition, a weak automotive battery will have more than enough cranking amps to crank over a small, single- or two-cylinder engine with no problem, and a drop in the battery's cranking amps wouldn't be that noticeable while cranking the engine to start it. Whether if it's in a garden tractor , small motorized vehicle or an automobile, an automotive battery with a dead cell or weak cells will cause the charging system to continually try to recharge the battery, but instead of the battery taking full charge, the charging system will put too much voltage through the coil for long periods of time, causing the primary windings within the coil to burn up. If an engine has a battery-powered electronic ignition, this too, could burn up the electronic ignition control module, burn out light bulbs and electrical accessories. To determine if a battery is defective, use a load tester for sealed-top batteries, and for batteries with removable caps, test the battery's acid condition with a hydrometer battery tester (glass tube with floating balls [pocket size] or a floating bulb [full size]; which are available at virtually any auto parts store). Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging system.
• Although rare, severe engine vibrations could cause the tiny wires inside the coil to break. Read more about this below Ê.

Why Do Some Magneto Armature Ignition Coils To Go Bad?

I think the Briggs & Stratton, Kohler KT-series and Magnum opposed twin cylinder opposed twin cylinder engines are the best that was made, but their armature ignition coil has its shortcomings. The real problem with these engines is they use one (small) armature ignition coil to fire two spark plugs, one per cylinder, and after several years of use, sometimes the coil will fail to produce a spark, rather if the engine has ignition points and condenser/capacitor, Magnetron™ or a solid state electronic module. Unfortunately, some armature ignition coils don't last the life of the engine. As the spark plug's electrode and/or the resistor in a resistor type spark plug deteriorates, the secondary windings within the coil is forced to produce more voltage to fire the plug at higher RPM. Eventually, the increase in voltage will overheat and eventually burn up the secondary windings within the coil, causing coil failure. This is why quality-made copper core/non-resistor spark plugs should always be used with a small or magneto armature ignition coil. The coil burns out because one coil must fire two spark plugs at one time with the plug gaps set at .030" each (factory recommended setting). With these size gaps, this is the same as firing one spark plug with a gap of .060"! Most magneto coils are not designed to produce this much voltage and may not last too long when they do. The coil is forced to produce more voltage than is necessary to fire both plugs and this causes the secondary windings within the coil to overheat and eventually burn out. And as the spark plugs deteriorate with age, the coil is forced to produce even more voltage to make a spark through the weak plugs. So to lessen the chance of a good coil going bad (again), set the spark plug gaps at .015" each. The .015" gaps will simulate having just one spark plug with a .030" gap, and the coil will operate much cooler and should last a lot longer. Dyno tests proved that the engine will still start quickly, idle smoothly, rev up quickly at open RPM, run the same and produce just as much power at higher RPM as it did with the .030" spark plug gaps. And be sure to set the armature ignition coil's laminations-to-flywheel magnet air gap/clearance at .010". The paper box a new coil comes in can be used as a gauge. It has pretty much the same thickness as a business card or poster board.

The use of resistor type spark plugs shortens the life of most small engine self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic armature ignition coil/modules. Therefore, for best engine performance and longevity of the coil, it's best to use a high quality copper core/non-resistor spark plug gapped at .025" for single cylinder and V-twin engines, and .015" each for opposed twin cylinder engines to prevent overheating of secondary windings within the coil and possibly causing premature coil failure. Set the armature to the flywheel magnet clearance (air gap) at .010". And the easiest and most accurate way to set the air gap is to use a business card, poster board, or part of the box the new coil came in. These measure about .010" thickness. Place a strip of the paper or box between the coil's armature and magnet in the flywheel and allow the magnet to pull the armature to it, then tighten the coil mounting screws securely. Also, when a coil goes bad, save the spark plug wire(s) off the defective coil. These have a stranded metal core conductor wire, and with a coil (distributor) terminal and coil tower boot installed, it/they can be used on an engine with a magneto, battery-powered or A-1 Miller's custom-made flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition system.

Or instead of doing the above È, if an older Briggs & Stratton opposed twin cylinder flathead engine has ignition points, it can be easily converted to the more reliable and higher output battery ignition (for a stronger spark). The B&S ignition points can be still used, but two 12 volt automotive canister ignition coils or one battery-powered ignition coil with dual plug terminals (as described above È) with spark plug wires, and two battery ignition condensers/capacitors will need to be used. The spark plug gaps can be set at .035", and the ignition timing can be set by the width of the ignition points gap (.020") or with an automotive strobe timing light after the flywheel is degreed in with timing marks. The timing light connects to the battery and spark plug wire.

How to Convert a Briggs & Stratton Engine to Battery-Powered Flywheel-Trigger Ignition -

For virtually any B&S engine with a magnet embedded on the circumference of the flywheel, a hall effect (detects a magnet) proximity sensor can be used in place of the OEM armature ignition coil to trigger the ignition. Being a non-magnetic pickup coil will generate power as it passes the full width of the North and South poles of the magnet, it will produce a double spark, which may effect how the engine runs. The hall effect proximity sensor on the other hand will work better because it's activated just off the South pole of the magnet, producing a single spark. And a sturdy bracket will need to be fabricated to mount the sensor. The sensor will fire both cylinders at the same time (wasted spark). A Chrysler or Ford ignition control module will need to be used with a single ignition coil with dual wires. The timing will need to be set just as the sensor comes within the leading edge of the South pole of the magnet, so the engine will produce full power.

And if you're wondering if surface rust on flywheel magnets reduces magnetism and/or strength of the spark on the armature of a magneto armature ignition coil, well, I know for a proven fact that surface rust does not affect magnetism or strength of the spark whatsoever. This is the same as saying that pure, undiluted automotive antifreeze coolant will freeze solid in sub-zero freezing weather. It will NOT freeze! And despite of what you've probably heard, putting sugar in the gas tank will NOT ruin the engine! Read about it here: snopes.com: Sugar in the Gas Tank. Don't just theorize about such things, believe in myths, rumors or what some [delusional] people/mechanics/technicians tell you. Perform a scientific test to prove to yourself and debunk the myths. I always do.

And for anyone who's wondering, an standard-output/stock automotive battery ignition condenser/capacitor with an automotive canister ignition coil will work on virtually any one- or two-cylinder air-cooled engine that use the battery ignition system. But when using two 12 volt automotive ignition coils on a twin- or two-cylinder engine with conventional ignition points, be sure to use two condensers/capacitors as well, one for each coil, only if the coil(s) requires one. Otherwise, the engine will idle, but may not rev up. And there's a very little difference between the Kohler battery ignition condenser/capacitor and an automotive [GM, Ford or Chrysler] ignition [ignition points] condenser/capacitor. So either can be used on a small engine.

Replacing an Obsolete, Hard to Find or High Dollar Magneto or Solid State Armature Ignition Coil with Another Type of Coil - (Added 5/7/21) | [Top of Page]

When a points and condenser type of magneto armature ignition coil or a solid state electronic armature ignition coil goes bad and is no longer available new, hard to find or is cost-prohibitive, then perhaps a new coil that's made for a different make and model of small engine could be used on the engine with the faulty coil, by removing the new coil from its armature, and installing it on the original coil's armature. But this will only work if the center hole in the replacement coil is the same size or slightly larger than the original coil's armature, and if the spark plug wire is of the appropriate length. If the replacement coil's center hole is slightly larger, several thin strips of sheet metal can be wedged inside the coil for a stronger magnetic field to create a strong spark. Personally, I've noticed that nowadays, most [aftermarket] small engine coils look the same, but they're mounted on different types of armatures for various makes and models of small engines. This is because they all work exactly the same off the magnet in or on the flywheel to create a strong spark. This is because it cost less for most manufacturers to produce the same type of coil, and install it in different armatures.

With your faulty coil/armature in hand, visit your local lawn mower repair shops or small engine businesses and ask them if they have another new coil in stock that closely match yours. Then compare the armature and length of the spark plug wire of the replacement coil to your original coil and armature. Maybe you'll get lucky and you can transfer the replacement coil onto your original armature. I've done this several times for my customers and it works great!

Spark Plug Wires and Spark Plug Boots -

Virtually all copper or metal core conductor spark plug wires rarely lose resistance, resulting in a weak spark. The only time they need replacing is when damaged beyond use. A spark plug wire can be tested with an analog multimeter switched to the X1K Ohm (d) setting or for a digital multimeter, switched to the 2000K Ohm (d) setting. Also, virtually all small engine lawn & garden equipment spark plug wires have a stranded metal core conductor wire and are considered high performance because they have zero Ohm resistance. Most ATV's, UTV's, mopeds and scooters have a spark plug boot with a resistor built-in the terminal. The resistor reduce the amount of voltage going to the spark plug, which will cause the secondary windings within the ignition coil to overheat and could eventually cause the coil to go bad or fail to produce a spark.

Any spark plug wire, rather if it's a real-known brand name or aftermarket, should always be tested for it's Ohm resistance. The best way to determine if a spark plug wire has a carbon- or metal core conductor wire (without stripping the insulation away) is with a set on the 2000K Ohm (d) setting for a digital multimeter or x1K setting for an analog multimeter. Touch the multimeter leads together to adjust for (analog) or take note of (digital) the zero resistance. Now connect the leads of the multimeter to the ends of the spark plug wire. If the reading displays zero resistance, it's a metal core conductor plug wire. But if it displays any resistance at all, it's most likely a suppression/carbon core spark plug wire. Certain [plastic] spark plug caps (boot/terminal) have a built-in resistor, which will deliver about half the voltage to the spark plug, resulting in poor engine performance, especially at high RPM. So for better engine performance, try to avoid using a resistor spark plug cap (boot/terminal). Click/tap here to learn how to test the Ohm resistance of a spark plug wire or spark plug boot/terminal.

copper core/non-resistor spark plugs, such as the Autolite 216 and Champion 844 (H10C), and small engine spark plug wires, which have a metal conductor wire, are the best things to use for competition pulling. By using a copper core/non-resistor plug and metal core conductor wire, more voltage will reach the spark plug's tip, especially under high compression when the engine is running at wide open throttle, resulting in a much stronger spark. A stock, standard-output/stock ignition coil with a metal spark plug wire and a copper core/non-resistor spark plug will produce about the same voltage at the spark plug's tip as a high-output/performance coil with a suppression/carbon core spark plug wire and a resistor type spark plug.

On virtually any ignition system, the coil produce is less voltage at idle or cruising speeds (in an automobile) when the throttle plate is partially open, and when the throttle plate is opened more or in the wide open throttle position to increase the engine's RPM, being the combustion chamber is more air (and fuel) to build up more compression, the coil is forced to produce more voltage to fire the spark(s). As a suppression/carbon core spark plug wire and/or resistor type spark plug gets weak (they deteriorate with use), the ignition coil is forced to produce even more voltage. Eventually, as the suppression/carbon core wire and/or resistor plug gets so weak, the coil can't produce enough voltage and an engine misfire occurs, or the engine will die out when revved up. This will happen even with a high-output/performance coil. It just takes longer for the high-output coil to reach maximum voltage as the suppression/carbon core spark plug wire and/or resistor type spark plug deteriorate to cause an engine misfire. The use of aged and deteriorated suppression/carbon core spark plug wire and/or an old resistor type spark plug will also cause a good coil to eventually fail because the secondary windings within the coil overheat and eventually burn up from producing excessive voltage to fire the plug.

If a spark plug wire has no markings rather if it's a suppression/carbon or metal core conductor wire type, it can be tested with an analog or digital multimeter switched to the Ohm (d) setting. Connect the leads of the meter to the terminals of the spark plug wire, if it reads full scale, it's a metal conductor wire type. But if the meter reads about halfway, it's suppression/carbon core spark plug wire. The same test can be performed on a questionable spark plug, with accurate results. And remember - spark plug wires and spark plugs are like women, it's what's on the inside that matters.

A spark plug gap of .035" works best with gas, and a .060" gap works better with methanol because it's a "richer" fuel. When burning methanol, the wider gap works best with a high-output/performance ignition coil, metal core spark plug wire and non-resistor type spark plug.

And the use of a "cold", "medium", or "hot" heat range spark plug makes absolutely no difference in a competition Kohler pulling engine with a steel flywheel and billet cylinder head that have no fins because these engines have no cooling system or air blowing past the cylinder and across the head to dissipate the heat from the combustion chamber/spark plug. When there's no cooling fins on the flywheel or with an electric fan not running to cool the engine, nothing will maintain the temperature of the engine, except for a swift breeze on a windy day (only on a tractor with no side shields).

Did you know that installing two spark plugs per cylinder doesn't help to increase the power output of an engine whatsoever? Simply because one plug will be running hot (exhaust side) and the other will be cool (intake side). Engine power is generated from the heat source, because heat is how an engine produce power. When the spark plug in the cylinder head is located over the exhaust valve, this maintains the majority of the heat in the combustion chamber in one area. When heat is maintained in one particular area in any given combustion chamber, the increase in power will be much greater, especially at high RPM. Burning fuel within a combustion chamber will "find" or locate the main heat source. The fuel will burn more thoroughly, allowing the engine to produce more power at any RPM. If the plug is located in the center of the combustion chamber, the incoming fuel could splash against the plug's tip and cause the engine to misfire or run erratic at high speed, especially when burning methanol fuel. And the plug could easily become fouled when burning gas, especially when the engine is cold. So it's best to install just one spark plug positioned over the exhaust valve with the plug gap set at .060". Because a .060" gap will simulate having two spark plugs. Use of a high-output/performance ignition coil will help produce a stronger spark, too.

Index the Spark Plug(s) to Help Increase Engine Horsepower and Torque -

An indexing washer is a special washer of a specific thickness. They are placed on the threads of the spark plug(s) to position it with the open/exposed gap facing the center of the piston when the plug is properly torqued in the head. When the open or exposed gap faces the piston, this helps in a more thorough combustion or burning of the fuel so the engine will produce up to 10% more power and torque when using a tractor under extreme conditions, such as heavy mowing, garden plowing, pushing/blowing snow, or for competition pulling. Indexing washers come in various thicknesses, and one of a certain thickness is used to index the spark plug(s). The thin shims/washers for Kohler balance gears can also be used as indexing washers for spark plug(s). To know exactly where the open gap is when the spark plug is installed in the head, use a black felt tip ink marker (Sharpie, Magic Marker, Marks-A-Lot) to place a mark (line) on the porcelain in-line with the open gap at the tip of spark plug as shown in the photo to the right ->. And on flat seat spark plugs, leave the original compression washer on the spark plug and add the indexing washer(s) as needed until the open gap faces the piston.

Furthermore, when the spark plug in the cylinder head is located over the exhaust valve, this maintains the majority of the heat in the combustion chamber in one area, instead of being spread throughout the combustion chamber. Because when heat is maintained in one particular area in any given combustion chamber, the increase in power will be much greater, especially at high RPM. Burning fuel within a combustion chamber will seek out or "find" the main heat source. The fuel will burn more thoroughly, allowing the engine to produce more power at any RPM. If the plug is located in the center of the combustion chamber, the incoming fuel could splash against the plug's tip and cause the engine to misfire or run erratic at high speed, especially when burning methanol fuel. And the plug could easily become fouled when burning gas, especially when the engine is being choked or primed with fuel to start it when it's cold. [Return to previous paragraph, section or website]

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Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website.

Indexing Washers for Flat Seat Spark Plugs with 14mm Threads. Positions spark plug in flathead engines combustion chamber with the open/exposed gap facing the center of the piston for up to 10% more power and torque when using tractor under extreme conditions, such as heavy mowing, garden plowing, pushing/blowing snow, or for competition pulling. To know exactly where the open gap is when the spark plug is installed, use a felt tip ink marker (Sharpie, Magic Marker, Marks-A-Lot) to place a mark (line) on the porcelain in-line with the open gap at the tip of the spark plug as shown in the photo to the right. And on flat seat spark plugs, leave the original compression washer on the spark plug and add the indexing washer(s) as needed, tighten spark plug until the open gap faces near the center of the piston. Available in the following thicknesses: .005", .010" and .015". Made of hardened steel. .75¢ each, plus shipping & handling. Indexing Washers for Tapered Seat Spark Plugs with 14mm Threads. Positions spark plug in OHV engines combustion chamber with open/exposed gap toward the piston for up to 10% more power and torque when using tractor under extreme conditions, such as heavy mowing, garden plowing, pushing/blowing snow, or for competition pulling. Made of copper. Available in the following thicknesses: .010", .021" and .032". $1.50 each, plus shipping & handling.

How to Test the Value of the Ohm () Resistance of an Ignition Coil, Ballast Resistor, Ignition Resistor Wire, Spark Plug Wire or Spark Plug Boot/Terminal - [Return to previous paragraph, section or website]

Virtually all ceramic-body ballast resistors do not have any indication or markings of its Ohm resistance. Therefore, it will need to be tested to verify the resistance for it to work correctly with the connected electrical device. If it's used resistor, inspect the ceramic portion for signs of overheating. An overheated (overloaded) resistor will be dark or blackened. Such a resistor should not be used. And most 12 volt ignition coils have either an 1.5 or 3.0 Ohm internal primary resistor. 6 volt coils have a 1.0 Ohm internal primary resistor. All battery-powered ignition coils have an internal resistor and some coils require an additional external resistor for two reasons: 1: to provide a stronger spark so a cold engine will start quicker (as the engine warms up, the resistor gradually drops the voltage to around 9 volts to the ignition points contacts so they will last longer, or to the electronic ignition control unit to keep it from burning up); and 2: to protect the primary windings from current spikes from the charging generator or alternator. Also, certain [plastic] spark plug caps (boot/terminal) have a built-in resistor, which will deliver about half the voltage to the spark plug, resulting in poor engine performance, especially at high RPM. So for better engine performance, try to avoid using a resistor spark plug cap (boot/terminal). Anyway, the best way to determine the value of the resistor is with a digital multimeter. When in doubt of the Ohm value in a coil, etc., it can be tested as follows:

1. Coil-to-spark plug wires can be accurately tested with either an analog or digital multimeter, but the accuracy of testing the internal resistor in a coil, ballast resistor or ignition resistor wire is more complicated when performed with an analog multimeter. Therefore, the easiest and most accurate way to test for the Ohm resistance of the before mentioned is with a digital multimeter (DMM, DVOM). IMPORTANT - For an accurate reading, make sure the battery in the digital multimeter is fully charged, and the digital multimeter and the part to be tested are warmed to room temperature (72°F).
2. Switch on the digital multimeter, plug the red test lead connector in the [VmA] receptacle, and plug the black test lead connector in the COM receptacle, and for the most accurate reading, select the 200 Ohm () setting. On most digital multimeters, resistance is denoted by the capital Greek letter Omega (), which stand for Ohm. (Named after Georg Ohm.)
3. Digital Ohmmeter Calibration: Hold the two test leads together and observe the reading on the display. Be sure to keep your fingers off the metal leads, because the electrical current in your body could disrupt the resistance, resulting in an inaccurate reading. If the meter shows slightly higher than 0.0, this is the resistance in the electronic components of the digital multimeter. This figure will need to be subtracted from the reading of the resistor in the ignition coil, ballast resistor or resistor wire. For example: If the reading for the resistor is 1.9 Ohm, but when the digital multimeter leads are mistakenly connected together, the reading is 0.5 Ohm, then the resistor's resistance is actually 1.4 Ohm. Do the math: 1.9 - 0.5 = 1.4. This calibration procedure applies only to resistance measurements made in the 200 Ohm () setting of a digital multimeter. It may take a few seconds for the multimeter to absorb the full resistance in the resistor until it displays the lowest resistance. Make a note of this reading.
4. With the ballast resistor, resistor wire, coil or spark plug wire not connected to anything, connect the test leads to the terminals on the ballast resistor, ends of the resistor wire, small terminals on the coil or the terminals of the spark plug wire. Being there's no polarity, it doesn't matter which terminals they're connected to. Again, be sure to keep your fingers off the metal leads or terminals!
5. The resistance in or of the item being tested will now be displayed on the digital multimeter screen. Again, it may take a few seconds for the digital multimeter to settle so it'll display the lowest resistance. This figure will need to be subtracted from the resistance in the digital multimeter electronic components. If a spark plug wire has more than 10 Ohm of resistance per foot, avoid using it. Click here to see a YouTube video on Ignition Coil Test (The Short Version).
6. Use a Sharpie metallic silver permanent marker for dark colored coils or a Sharpie black permanent marker for bright colored ballast resistors, coils or masking tape on resistor wires and spark plug wires) or paint marker to note on the ignition part its Ohm resistance for future reference.

Being virtually all ignition coils and ballast resistors look alike and there's no indication on them of their Ohm resistance, before purchasing a new coil or ballast resistor, take a digital multimeter in the small engine shop, auto parts store, farm & home store, etc. with you and test the item for its Ohm resistance to make sure you get what you pay for. [Return to previous paragraph, section or website]

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Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website.
FYI - I can install my custom-made flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition system on your older small engine and/or rewire your lawn & garden tractor, small engine equipment, small motorized vehicle or competition garden pulling tractor so all the electrical accessories will work and the engine will start quickly every time. I have the knowledge, skills, all the tools and parts necessary to perform a professional job. I've rewired many customer's lawn & garden tractors, small engine equipment and competition garden pulling tractors with great results. If you're interested, click/tap here for my phone numbers, address and directions to A-1 Miller's shop. - Brian Miller
NOTE: All parts listed here are NEW, unless otherwise stated. I do not sell cheap junk! As a matter of fact, most OEM Kohler parts are made in China now. Kohler owns some of the factories in China that make the parts. And most aftermarket parts are also made by Kohler in China. Kohler just place the part(s) in a generic box and sell them for less money. So when purchasing a genuine OEM Kohler part that comes in a box with the Kohler name on it, you're really just paying more money for the name. And as far as some parts being no longer available - either the parts didn't sell well or the EPA is trying to phase out parts for the old cast iron block flathead engines because they produce more air pollution than the newer OHV engines.
Ignition Points for Kohler, Tecumseh and Clinton engines. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582 with magneto or battery ignition (use with mounting bracket). Also fits Tecumseh cast iron block engine models HH80, HH100, HH120 with magneto or battery ignition (use without mounting bracket); and Clinton engine models 414, 418, 420, 422 (use without mounting bracket). Also, use this part when converting from Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition. IMPORTANT: Sometimes oxidation will form on new points contacts from sitting in storage, even when sealed in plastic. This happens A LOT with small engine and automotive ignition points. Therefore, while the points are closed under pressure, use a clean steel fingernail file or ignition points file to remove any oxidation/debris between the contacts, then drag a piece of clean lint-free paper through the contacts to remove any left-over residue, and use brake parts cleaner, electrical/electronic contact cleaner, cleaning solvent or paint thinner (these leave no oily residue) and then use 150± psi compressed air with an air blow gun nozzle to clean any remaining debris and/or metal filings from the contacts. This will guarantee 100% connection with the points. Do not use sanding material, such as sandpaper or emery cloth, to clean any electrical contacts! These will leave a gritty residue between the contacts, causing a faulty connection and possible engine misfire. And virtually any magneto point ignition system can be converted to a more reliable solid state ignition with the universal electronic transistorized ignition module that I offer, or if possible, upgrade/convert the engine with my reliable custom-made battery-powered flywheel-trigger electronic ignition for a better running engine. High quality aftermarket points without mounting bracket. Replaces Tecumseh part #'s 32011, 32011A; and Kohler # 47 150 03-S (reuse existing bracket). $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling. High quality aftermarket points with mounting bracket. Replaces Kohler part # 47 150 03-S; and Tecumseh part #'s 32011, 32011A (use without bracket). $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Kohler points with mounting bracket, part # 47 150 03-S. $16.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Include Hex Socket (Allen) Head Cap Screw and split lock washer (below Ê) in points w/bracket, add $1.00. Phillips and Socket (Allen) Head Screws with split lock washers to mount ignition points and points cover on Kohler engines. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582. These type of screw heads make for easier fastening of points and points cover to engine block in hard-to-reach places than the OEM slotted head screws on garden tractors with a transverse engine, such as older Bolens, belt-drive John Deere, Sears Suburban, Wheel Horse, etc. Dimensions: 10-24 UNC x 3/8" thread length. Each screw replaces Kohler part # X-131-1-S. A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.) Phillips head screws w/split lock washers. $1.00 per pair, plus shipping & handling. Socket (Allen) head cap screws w/split lock washers. $2.00 per pair, plus shipping & handling. Hex Socket (Allen) Head Cap Screw w/split lock washer. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582. Also fits Tecumseh cast iron block engine models HH80, HH100, HH120; and Clinton engine models 414, 418, 420, 422. Replaces OEM slotted or Phillips head adjustment screw in points. This stainless steel Allen head screw makes it much easier to precisely set the point gap and/or ignition timing with a 9/64" hex (Allen) L-wrench than the OEM slotted or Phillips screw with a straight or Phillips screwdriver so the points will not slip out of adjustment in garden tractors with a longitudinal engine, such as Cub Cadet, Economy Power King, Ford, hydrostatic-drive John Deere, MTD Farm King Model 960, Pennsylvania Panzer, Meteor, Copar, etc. No need to use this for garden tractors with a transverse engine, such as older Bolens, belt-drive John Deere, Sears Suburban, Wheel Horse, etc. NOTE: The threads for the adjustment screw in aftermarket points may need to be rethreaded with a 8-32 UNF [preferably] TAPER hand tap. And due to risk of stripping threads in the thin metal points bracket, do not over-tighten this adjustment screw! A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.) 8-32 UNF Hex Socket (Allen) Head Cap Screw w/split lock washer. $2.00 for two, plus shipping & handling. 9/64" Hex (Allen) L-Wrench for Allen screw above. Measures 7/8" wide x 2-1/2" length. Made of high strength black alloy steel. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling. High Quality Adjustable Chevy (GM) Ignition Points with Stiff Spring for Quick Reaction at open RPM. Use on Kohler K-series K241, K301, K321, K341, K361 competition pulling engines only. NOTE: Not recommended for use on lawn and garden equipment engines due to long exposure to dust and debris, which can contaminate points contacts and cause a misfire. IMPORTANT: Sometimes oxidation will form on new points contacts from sitting in storage, even when sealed in plastic. This happens A LOT with small engine and automotive ignition points. Therefore, while the points are closed under pressure, use a clean steel fingernail file or ignition points file to remove any oxidation/debris between the contacts, then drag a piece of clean lint-free paper through the contacts to remove any left-over residue, and use brake parts cleaner, electrical/electronic contact cleaner, cleaning solvent or paint thinner (these leave no oily residue) and then use 150± psi compressed air with an air blow gun nozzle to clean any remaining debris and/or metal filings from the contacts. This will guarantee 100% connection with the points. Do not use sanding material, such as sandpaper or emery cloth, to clean any electrical contacts! These will leave a gritty residue between the contacts, causing a faulty connection and possible engine misfire. And virtually any magneto point ignition system can be converted to a more reliable solid state ignition with the universal electronic transistorized ignition module that I offer, or if possible, upgrade/convert the engine with my reliable custom-made battery-powered flywheel-trigger electronic ignition for a better running engine. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Billet Aluminum Bracket and Cover w/all mounting screws for Chevy (GM) Points. Use on Kohler K-series K241, K301, K321, K341, K361 competition pulling engines only. Professionally CNC machined of thick aluminum to minimize timing fluctuations. NOTE: Cover is required with certain pulling associations/clubs as a fire prevention measure only. Cover does not totally enclose points. Therefore, it's not recommended for use on lawn and garden equipment engines due to long exposure to dust and debris, which can contaminate points contacts and cause a misfire. $40.00, plus shipping & handling. TIP: To prevent small Phillips- or slotted-head screws from falling out of the screwdriver tip when installing either in a hard to reach place, for ordinary steel screws, temporarily magnetize the screwdriver by rubbing a magnet several times along the length of the shank, or for stainless steel screws, apply a dab of automotive grease in the head of the screw.
Ignition Points Pushrods. Each fits Kohler K-series engine models K141, K160/K161, K181, KV161, L160/L161 and L181. NOTE: Used pushrod to be no less than .184" in diameter and 1.265" in length. Measure yours accurately with a dial or digital caliper to determine if it needs replacing. Or use this part to convert from a failed Breakerless Ignition to the more reliable battery-powered points and condenser ignition system. Stainless Steel. A-1 Miller's high quality aftermarket part. Replaces aluminum Kohler part # 41 411 01-S. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Aluminum. OEM Kohler part # 41 411 01-S. $22.25 each, plus shipping & handling. Flared-End Stainless Steel Points Pushrod. Install this A-1 Miller's custom-made part when the points lobe of the camshaft is severely worn on models K141, K160/K161, K181, KV161, L160/L161 or L181. Flared-end makes contact with unworn sides of points lobe. This special-made pushrod allows maximum opening of points so ignition timing can be set at factory specifications or beyond. Can also be used with an unworn points lobe for longer wear. NOTE: Entire engine MUST be completely disassembled to install this part. The alternative to using this part is to convert the engine to A-1 Miller's custom-made flywheel-trigger electronic ignition. Replaces Kohler part # 41 411 01-S. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. A proven, ingenious and innovative invention by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.) Ignition Points Pushrods. Each fits Kohler K-series engine models K90/K91, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, K482, K532 and K582. NOTE: Used pushrod to be no less than .184" in diameter and 1.500" in length. Measure yours accurately with a dial or digital caliper to determine if it needs replacing. Or use this part to convert from a failed Breakerless Ignition to the more reliable battery-powered points and condenser ignition system. Stainless Steel. A-1 Miller's high quality aftermarket part. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 46 411 01-S. $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Aluminum. (Listed for K90, K241, K301, K321, K341 and K361, but will also fit K482, K532 and K582 engines.) OEM Kohler part # 47 411 04-S. $17.20 each, plus shipping & handling. Aluminum. (Listed for K482, K532 and K582, but will also fit K90-K361 engines.) OEM Kohler part # X-489-8-S. $31.70 each, plus shipping & handling. Flared-End Stainless Steel Points Pushrod. Install this A-1 Miller's custom-made part when the points lobe of the camshaft is severely worn on models K241, K301, K321, K341 or K361, or the breaker cam (points lobe) in the governor assembly is severely worn on models K482, K532 or K582. Flared-end makes contact with unworn sides of points lobe. This special-made pushrod allows for maximum opening of points so ignition timing can be set at factory specifications. Can also be used with an unworn points lobe for longer wear. NOTE: Entire engine or governor assembly MUST be completely disassembled to install this part. But the alternative to using this part is to convert the engine to A-1 Miller's custom-made flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition. Replaces Kohler part #'s 41 411 04-S, 46 411 01-S, 47 411 04-S and X-489-8-S. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. A proven, ingenious and innovative invention by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.) [Return to previous paragraph, section or website] Thin-Wall Brass Sleeve Bushing. Use this to repair worn 3/16" points pushrod hole in governor assembly for Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582. To install, the points pushrod hole will need to be precision-machined (enlarged) exactly to .218" with a chucking reamer for a press-fit installation. Dimensions: 3/16" I.D. x 7/32" O.D. x 5/8" length. $4.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Flared-End Oversized Stainless Steel Points Pushrod. Install this when the points pushrod hole is worn too big for the thin-wall brass bushing (listed above) and if the points lobe is worn or not in governor assembly for Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582. Use the Letter C chucking reamer to enlarge pushrod hole. Dimensions: .241" x 1.550" length. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. A proven, ingenious and innovative invention by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.) NOTE: If possible, upgrade/convert the engine with my custom-made battery-powered flywheel-trigger electronic ignition for a better running engine.
3/16" I.D. Neoprene Rubber O-Ring. Installs on points pushrod close to engine block, allowing any seepage of crankcase oil to drip down, staying off points contacts. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, K482, K532 and K582. But if the ignition points pushrod hole is excessively worn, this will effect the ignition timing as well, and the block will need to be machined for installation of a bronze sleeve bushing, or the hole can be plugged, and solid state or a custom-made flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition system can be installed. (The translucent silicone rubber diaphragm seal (part # 220074-S) is no longer available from Kohler.) [Return to previous paragraph, section or website] .50¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
Ignition Points Cover Gaskets. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582. Protects points contacts from dust, dirt and water contamination. Also, use this part when converting from Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition. High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 52 041 11-S. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Kohler part # 52 041 11-S. $2.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
Grommet for Ignition Points Cover/Wire. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582. Prevents dust and dirt from contaminating points contacts, and protects points wire from rubbing/chafing against points cover or use this part when converting from Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition. FYI: RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant will serve the same purpose. OEM Kohler part # 220297-S. $4.95 each, plus shipping & handling.
Points Cover. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582. Protects points contacts from dust, dirt and water contamination. Also, use this part when converting from Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition. Made of 16 gauge stamped steel. Points cover for Kohler engines with push-button kill switch for self-energizing magneto ignition is no longer available. Used and in excellent condition. Discontinued Kohler part # 232535-S. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
"Assemble It Yourself" Points-to-Ignition Coil Wire Kit. Replace OEM wire with frayed/cracked insulation and/or broken connector(s) to prevent a short circuit and/or engine misfire. Fits Kohler engines with battery-powered ignition, models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582. Includes 22" length (cut to desired length) x #16 gauge (AWG) insulated stranded copper wire and two uninstalled crimp connectors. Requires use of electrical connector crimping pliers. High quality A-1 Miller's parts. Replaces Kohler part # A-230371-S. Without wire/points cover grommet. (Reuse your grommet if in good condition.) $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling. With new wire/points cover grommet. $7.00 each, plus shipping & handling. "Ready to Install" Points-to-Ignition Coil Wire Kits. Replace OEM wire with frayed/cracked insulation and/or broken connector(s) to prevent a short circuit and/or engine misfire. Fits Kohler engines with battery-powered ignition, models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582. Includes 16" or 22" length x #16 gauge (AWG) insulated stranded copper wire, grommet and two installed crimp connectors. 16" length. Use on single cylinder Kohler engines with coil located next to carburetor or use this when converting from Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition. High quality A-1 Miller's part. Replaces Kohler part # A-231839-S. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Kohler part # A-231839-S. $19.70 each, plus shipping & handling. 22" length. Use on single cylinder Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) engines with coil located above starter motor. High quality A-1 Miller's part. Replaces Kohler part # 47 125 01-S. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Kohler part # 47 125 01-S. $24.25 each, plus shipping & handling.
Points Pushrod Hole Block-Off Plate for Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582. Use this part to cover points pushrod hole when converting engine to electronic ignition. Apply RTV silicone sealant to prevent oil leak and use OEM ignition points mounting screws to secure plate in place. Fabricated A-1 Miller's part. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
NOTE: If an engine idles well, but runs erratically when revved up, like it hits and misses, pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs a new condenser/capacitor. And always install a condenser/capacitor with the wire facing downward so rain water and/or when washing off engine, water will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it. With water inside the condenser, this will also allow it to idle well, but cause it to run erratically when revved up. Click/tap here to hear what an engine with a faulty condenser/capacitor sounds like. And virtually any magneto point ignition system can be converted to a more reliable solid state ignition with the universal electronic transistorized ignition module that I offer, or if possible, upgrade/convert the engine with my reliable custom-made battery-powered flywheel-trigger electronic ignition for a better running engine. Low Capacity Ignition Condenser/Capacitor. Designed for self-energizing magneto ignition coils or compact 12 volt ignition coils only. Fits certain Kohler engine models K91 and K241, and various other makes and models of small engines with a self-energizing magneto armature ignition coil. 5mm mounting hole. Can also be used with a compact epoxy-encapsulated 12 volt ignition coil in a custom-made battery-powered ignition system. Dimensions: .670" diameter x 1.250" body length x 11/32" mounting hole. NOTE: Virtually any self-energizing magneto ignition system can be converted to the universal electronic transistorized ignition module, or if possible, upgrade/convert the engine with my custom-made battery-powered flywheel-trigger electronic ignition for a better running engine. High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 220434-S, and discontinued Tecumseh part # 32015. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Medium Capacity Ignition Condensers/Capacitors. Designed for magneto coils or full-size 12 volt coils. Has twice the capacity of the low capacity condenser listed above. Each fits certain Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K241, K301, K321 and K341. Including Tecumseh cast iron block engine models HH80, HH100, HH120 with self-energizing magneto ignition, Onan model P, and various other makes and models of small engines with a self-energizing magneto armature ignition coil. Each can also be used with Kohler engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series II. Or each can be used with a compact epoxy-encapsulated 12 volt ignition coil in a custom-made battery-powered ignition system. Dimensions: .680" diameter x 1.250" body length x 11/32" mounting hole. NOTE: Virtually any self-energizing magneto ignition system can be converted to the universal electronic transistorized ignition module, or if possible, upgrade/convert the engine with my custom-made battery-powered flywheel-trigger electronic ignition for a better running engine. High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 47 147 01-S. $16.00 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Kohler part # 47 147 01-S. $23.50 each, plus shipping & handling. Condenser/capacitor with two integrated wires. One wire connects to points, other wire connects to coil. OEM Kohler part # 52 147 01-S. $28.55 each, plus shipping & handling. Medium Capacity Ignition Condensers/Capacitors. Designed for use with full-size OEM-type 12 volt coils. Use on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series II, K482, K532, K582, and Tecumseh cast iron block engine models HH80, HH100, HH120, and various other makes and models of small engines with a 12 volt ignition system. Dimensions: .680" diameter x 1.250" body length x 3-1/2" wire length x 1/4" hole in mounting clamp. High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 230722-S. $7.00 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Kohler condenser/capacitor part # 230722-S. $17.45 each, plus shipping & handling. High Capacity/Performance Ignition Condenser/Capacitor. Has twice the capacity of the medium capacity condensers listed above. Designed for use with a 30,000+ volt high-output/performance 12 volt coil, Bosch blue coil, GM DIS coil, or an automotive-type distributor-driven point ignition system so engine will rev up at open RPM. Equivalent to ACCEL, Bosch, Mallory, MSD and most other name brand high performance condensers. Use on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series II, K482, K532, K582, and Tecumseh cast iron block engine models HH80, HH100, HH120, and various other makes and models of small engines with a 12 volt ignition system. Dimensions: .680" diameter x 1.250" length x 3-1/2" wire length x 3/16" hole in mounting clamp. High Capacity/Performance Ignition Condenser/Capacitor. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Used and in excellent condition. OEM Kohler condenser clamp w/9/32" mounting hole. Allows the high-output/performance condenser (listed above) be mounted next to the coil with one of the coil's mounting bolts. Otherwise, it will need to be fastened next to the points. Irrelevant Kohler part number. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Copper Core/Non-Resistor Spark Plugs. Designed for Kohler engine models K90/K91, smaller flathead Briggs & Stratton and Tecumseh engines, most 2-cycle small engines and most chainsaws. Copper core spark plugs provides a stronger spark that allow the ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. For best engine performance and longevity of the coil, set gap at .025" with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system, .035" with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with a high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 3/8" thread reach, flat washer seat. Replaces Briggs and Stratton part # 802592S. Autolite® 455. Replaces Kohler part # 41 132 06-S. $2.50 each, plus shipping & handling. (Limited quantity.) Champion® 843 (CJ8). Replaces Kohler part # 41 132 06-S. $3.20 each, plus shipping & handling. Champion® 861 (J19LM). Replaces Kohler part # 41 132 06-S. $3.20 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Kohler part # 41 132 06-S. $7.00 each, plus shipping & handling. High Quality Copper Core/Non-Resistor Spark Plugs. Designed for most larger cast iron block Briggs & Stratton engines, Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181, KV161, L160/L161, L181, M8, and cast iron block Tecumseh engine models VH80, VH100, HH80, HH100, HH120, OH140, OH150, OH160 and OH180. Copper core spark plugs provides a stronger spark that allow the ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. For best engine performance and longevity of the coil, set gap at .025" with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system, .035" with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with a high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 3/8" thread reach, flat washer seat. Autolite® 295 Non-Resistor. Replaces Kohler part # 41 132 02-S. $2.50 each, plus shipping & handling. Champion® 841 (J8C) Copper Plus. Replaces Kohler part # 41 132 02-S. $3.20 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Kohler part # 41 132 02-S. $9.35 each, plus shipping & handling. High Quality Copper Core/Non-Resistor Spark Plugs. Designed for Kohler engine models K241, M10, K301, M12, K330/K331, K321, M14, K341, M16, K361, K482, K532 and K582. Copper core spark plugs provides a stronger spark that allow the ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. For best engine performance and longevity of the coil, set gap at .025" with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system, .035" with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with a high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 7/16" thread reach for stock OEM cylinder heads, flat washer seat. Autolite® 216 Non-Resistor. Replaces Kohler part # 25 132 10-S. $2.50 each, plus shipping & handling. Champion® 844 (H10C) Copper Plus. Replaces Kohler part # 25 132 10-S. $3.20 each, plus shipping & handling. AC Delco C45L Copper Core. Replaces Kohler part # 25 132 10-S. $3.50 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Kohler part # 25 132 10-S. $11.10 each, plus shipping & handling. High Quality Copper Core/Non-Resistor Spark Plugs for use in machined billet cylinder heads for competition pulling only. Designed for Kohler engine models K241, M10, K301, M12, K330/K331, K321, M14 , K341 and M16. Copper core spark plugs provides a stronger spark that allow the ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. For best engine performance and longevity of the coil, set gap at .025" with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system, .035" with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with a high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 3/4" thread reach, flat washer seat. Irrelevant Kohler part number. Autolite® 4056 Copper; Tapered electrode design. $2.50 each, plus shipping & handling. AC Delco 43XL. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Champion® 120 (N5C) Copper Plus. $2.50 each, plus shipping & handling. High Quality Copper Core/Non-Resistor Spark Plugs. Designed for Kohler opposed twin-cylinder flathead engine models MV16, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Copper core spark plugs provides a stronger spark that allow the ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. For best engine performance and longevity of the coil, set gap at .025" with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system, .035" with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with a high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 15/32" thread reach, tapered seat. Autolite® 26 Non-Resistor. Replaces Kohler part # 52 132 02-S. $2.50 each, plus shipping & handling. Champion® 25 (RV17YC) Copper Plus. Replaces Kohler part # 52 132 02-S. $3.65 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Kohler part # 52 132 02-S. $9.15 each, plus shipping & handling. High Quality Copper Core/Non-Resistor Spark Plugs. Designed for most makes and models of OHV aluminum block single- and V-twin air-cooled small engines. Copper core spark plugs provides a stronger spark that allow the ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. For best engine performance and longevity of the coil, set gap at .025" with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system, .035" with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with a high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 5/8" thread reach, flat washer seat. Champion® 71 (RC12YC) Copper Plus. Replaces Kohler part # 12 132 02-S. $3.20 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Kohler part # 12 132 02-S. $6.10 each, plus shipping & handling. High Quality Copper Core/Non-Resistor Spark Plugs. Designed for most models of Onan opposed twin-cylinder air-cooled small engines. Copper core spark plugs provides a stronger spark that allow the ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. For best engine performance and longevity of the coil, set gap at .025" with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system, .035" with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with a high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 11/16" thread reach, flat washer seat. Autolite® 106 Non-Resistor. $2.50 each, plus shipping & handling. AC Delco R44LTS Copper Core. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Champion® 909 (RS17YX) Copper Plus. $3.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
Spark Plug Grommet. Fits Kohler (Quiet Line) engine models K181AQS, M8, K241AQS, K301AQS, K321AQS and K341AQS. Fastens directly on spark plug in air duct shield (sheet metal) over cylinder head to help cool the head better. Made of neoprene rubber. OEM Kohler part # 47 313 01-S. $5.90 each, plus shipping & handling.
Indexing Washers for Flat Seat Spark Plugs with 14mm Threads. Positions spark plug in flathead engines combustion chamber with the open/exposed gap facing the center of the piston for up to 10% more power and torque when using tractor under extreme conditions, such as heavy mowing, garden plowing, pushing/blowing snow, or for competition pulling. To know exactly where the open gap is when the spark plug is installed, use a felt tip ink marker (Sharpie, Magic Marker, Marks-A-Lot) to place a mark (line) on the porcelain in-line with the open gap at the tip of the spark plug as shown in the photo to the right. And on flat seat spark plugs, leave the original compression washer on the spark plug and add the indexing washer(s) as needed, tighten spark plug until the open gap faces near the center of the piston. Available in the following thicknesses: .005", .010" and .015". Made of hardened steel. .75¢ each, plus shipping & handling. Indexing Washers for Tapered Seat Spark Plugs with 14mm Threads. Positions spark plug in OHV engines combustion chamber with open/exposed gap toward the piston for up to 10% more power and torque when using tractor under extreme conditions, such as heavy mowing, garden plowing, pushing/blowing snow, or for competition pulling. Made of copper. Available in the following thicknesses: .010", .021" and .032". $1.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
Grounding-Type Safety Break-Away / Kill Switch with Pull-Pin. Use for competition pulling only; mount on rear of tractor. When the pin pulled, it grounds the ignition coil from producing spark. If using with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition systems: Connect one wire to the chassis ground, and connect the other wire to the ignition points/condenser wire or to the kill terminal on the solid state electronic ignition coil/module. If using with a battery-powered ignition system: Connect one wire to the chassis ground, and connect the other wire to the coil negative (–) terminal. NOTE: With battery-powered ignition, as soon as pin is pulled (engine will die), manually shut off ignition switch right away to prevent possible damage to the ignition coil and electronic ignition module if equipped with crank-trigger ignition. This type of switch does not disable power to the electric fuel pump on a pulling tractor. The electric fuel pump must be shut-off manually by an OFF-ON switch. Grounding-Type Safety Break-Away / Kill Switch with Pull-Pin. $14.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Replacement Pull-Pin for Break-Away Switch listed above. Keep an extra on hand to replace a damaged or "misplaced" pin by a disgruntled competitive puller. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Universal Self-Grounding OFF/ON Switches. Designed for use with Self-Energizing Magneto Ignition, Solid State Ignition, OEM Solid State Ignition (SSI) for Tecumseh's Cast Iron Block Engines, or with OEM Kohler Breakerless Ignition. These can be used on virtually any small engine installed on lawn and garden equipment, garden tillers, go-karts, chainsaws, portable log splitters, portable air compressors, portable generators/welders, portable water pumps, etc. with a magneto or solid state ignition, and a recoil/rope starter or a push-button switch with an electric starter motor to crank the engine. Universal Grounding Lever. Fasten with a cylinder head bolt and hold against spark plug to kill the engine. Use only with magneto or solid state ignition. Made of spring-loaded, weather-proof anodized steel. Has two barbs for tall and short spark plugs to penetrate rubber boot. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Grounded OFF-ON Toggle/Flip Switch. The terminal makes contact with the body of switch when the key is in the OFF position. The body of this switch is grounded through a drilled hole in the sheet metal on the flywheel shroud, pedestal, dashboard, instrument panel, engine control panel, etc., and the blade terminal on the switch connects to the kill wire from the points or ignition coil. Very durable, tough switch. Comes with OFF-ON indicator plate. Use #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connector on terminal when connecting ignition wire to switch. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 223072-S. $3.60 each, plus shipping & handling. Grounded OFF-ON Key Switch. The terminal makes contact with the body of switch when the key is in the OFF position. Use for security of equipment. The body of this switch is grounded through a drilled hole in the sheet metal on the flywheel shroud, pedestal, dashboard, instrument panel, engine control panel, etc., and the blade terminal on the switch connects to the kill wire from the points or ignition coil. The terminal makes contact with the body of switch when the key is in the OFF position. Very durable, tough switch. Requires 5/8" mounting hole. $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Non-Grounded OFF-ON Key Switch. The two terminals makes contact together when the key is in the OFF position. Use for security of equipment. Body of switch not grounded to terminals; use in plastic pedestal, dashboard, instrument panel, engine control panel, etc. Connect one terminal to engine or chassis, and other terminal to ignition points or ignition coil. Very durable, tough switch. Requires 5/8" mounting hole. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Universal Ignition Key. Fits all key switches listed in this website, most riding mowers and lawn tractors. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Universal OFF/ON Switches for Battery-Powered Ignition and Electrical Accessories. Very durable, tough switches. Either can be used for ignition, lights, electric fuel pump, electric PTO clutch, etc. When used for ignition, use with push button starter switch (listed below). Terminals or wires on switches listed below makes contact when in the ON position. Can be used on virtually anything that have a battery-powered ignition or electrical system, such as: garden tractors, go-karts, small motorized vehicles, pulling tractors, mini-rods, hot-rods, farm tractors, automobiles, etc. Each can be mounted in dashboard, instrument panel, engine control panel, etc. OFF-ON Toggle/Flip Switch. Maximum 20 amp capacity. Comes with OFF-ON indicator plate and two 6" wire leads. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 238011-S. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling. OFF-ON Pull-Push Switch. Pull out = ON, Push in = OFF. Maximum 5 amp capacity. Two screw terminal connection. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 275713. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling. OFF-ON Key Switch. Use for security of equipment. Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 100, Cub Lo Boy and IH Farmall Cub. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part # IH-403562-R3, and IH part #'s 366313R91, 370375R91, 379594R92, 403562R2, 636365R91. $42.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Universal Ignition Key. Fits most key switches listed in this website, most riding mowers and lawn tractors. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Universal Push Button Switches. Each can be mounted in pedestal, dashboard, instrument panel, engine control panel, flywheel shroud, etc. Light Duty OFF/ON 15 Amp Capacity Momentary Push Button Switch. BLACK button; Normally Open; push to connect circuit. Use as starter switch to crank engine, as a safety switch, temporarily power electrical accessories, such as light(s), etc., or to power kill switch motor (on pulling sled). Starter solenoid/relay may be required if electrical load exceeds 15 amps. Use #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals when connecting wires to switch. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. 2-1/8" overall length. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Light Duty OFF/ON 15 Amp Capacity Momentary Push Button Switch. RED button; Normally Off; push to disconnect circuit. Use as a safety switch for transmission shifter in a pulling vehicle to disconnect power to the starting circuit when transmission is in gear. Use #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals when connecting wires to switch. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. 2-1/8" overall length. $16.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Heavy Duty 20 Amp Capacity Momentary Push Button Switch. Normally Open; push to connect circuit. Comes with two screws to connect between positive (+) battery post and starter motor. Heavy wire terminals and minimum #8 gauge (AWG) wire recommended. Starter solenoid/relay may be required if electrical load exceeds 20 amps. Requires 5/8" mounting hole. $14.00 each, plus shipping & handling. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]
High Quality Universal 3-Position Off-Ignition-Start MAGNETO Ignition Key Switch. Designed specifically for Self-Energizing Magneto Ignition, Solid State Ignition, OEM Solid State Ignition (SSI) for Tecumseh's Cast Iron Block Engines, or OEM Kohler Breakerless Ignition. Can be used for various makes and models of riding mowers, lawn & garden tractors, garden tractors, small motorized vehicles and various small engine equipment with magneto or solid state ignition. Identification of 5 blade terminals: B = Battery (+); G = Ground (terminal is grounded to body of switch); L = Lights (use a separate OFF-ON switch connected to this terminal to power an electric PTO clutch); M = Magneto (Ignition); S = Solenoid (small terminal). Key positions: OFF position makes contact with M+G; IGNITION position makes contact with B+L; START position makes contact with B+S. Each terminal identified for correct wiring connections. IMPORTANT: Use with a starter solenoid/relay to crank the engine to prevent burning out internal contacts in switch. NOTE: If engine is equipped with an alternator/stator charging system, the center terminal on the voltage rectifier/regulator connects to the battery (+) terminal. If using an ammeter/amp gauge, connect the gauge/meter to the positive (+) battery post, then to the B terminal on the switch. Trace the wires on your tractor/equipment to see if they match the terminals on this switch. If they don't match, the plug-in spade connectors/wires can be rearranged in the plastic connector housing to match the corresponding terminals on the switch. To do this, use a small flat blade screwdriver to depress the locking tab/tang so the plug-in connector can be pulled out from the plastic connector housing. Bend the locking tab/tang up slightly before reinserting it in the plastic connector so it will be secured in place. Or use #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals when connecting wires to switch. Requires 5/8" diameter mounting hole. Magneto or Solid State Ignition Key Switch. A-1 Miller's part # 9158. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Universal Ignition Key. Fits all key switches listed in this website, most riding mowers and lawn tractors. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Universal 3-Position Off-Ignition-Start BATTERY Ignition Key Switch. Designed specifically for Battery-Powered Points/Condenser Ignition or Battery-Powered Flywheel/Crank-Trigger Aftermarket Replacement Electronic Ignition. Can be used for various makes and models of garden tractors, small engine equipment, small motorized vehicles, mini rod pulling tractors and hot rods with battery-powered ignition or flywheel/crank trigger ignition. Identification of 5 blade terminals are: I = Ignition; A = Auxiliary (electrical accessories, such as lights, electric PTO clutch, etc.); R = Rectifier; B = Battery (+); S = Solenoid (small terminal). Key positions: OFF position makes no contact with any of the other terminals; IGNITION position makes contact with B+I+R+A; START position makes contact with B+I+R+S. Each terminal identified for correct wiring connections. IMPORTANT: Must be used with a starter solenoid to crank the engine to prevent burning out internal contacts in switch. If using an ammeter/amp gauge, connect the gauge/meter to the positive (+) battery post, then to the B terminal on the switch. Trace the wires on your tractor/equipment to see if they match the terminals on this switch. If they don't match, the plug-in spade connectors/wires can be rearranged in the plastic connector housing to match the corresponding terminals on the switch. To do this, use a small flat blade screwdriver to depress the locking tab/tang so the plug-in connector can be pulled out from the plastic connector housing. Bend the locking tab/tang up slightly before reinserting it in the plastic connector so it will be secured in place. Or use #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals when connecting wires to switch. Requires 9/16" diameter mounting hole. Universal Battery-Powered Ignition Key Switch. A-1 Miller's part # 1931 or 12-110A. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Universal Ignition Key. Fits all key switches listed in this website, most riding mowers and lawn tractors. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
3-Position Off-Ignition-Start BATTERY Ignition Key Switch. Fits IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 154, 184, 185 and LO BOY. Universal applications; can also be used for various makes and models of garden tractors, small engine equipment, small motorized vehicles, mini rod pulling tractors and hot rods with battery-powered ignition or flywheel/crank trigger ignition. For universal applications, use with #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors. Identification of 3 blade terminals are: BAT = positive (+) battery post; IGN = Positive (+) Terminal on Ignition Coil ; ST = Starter Solenoid. IMPORTANT: Must be used with a starter solenoid to crank engine to prevent burning out internal contacts in switch. Unlike key switches listed above, this switch comes with a serrated key. High quality aftermarket. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-60736-C3. $35.00 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-60736-C3. $70.80 each, plus shipping & handling.
Universal Wiring Harness with Plastic Housing Connector. Fits universal Off-Ignition-Start key switches listed above and other key switches with same terminal configuration. Three terminals will also fit the OEM Cub Cadet garden tractor ignition key switch. Replace damaged wiring and connector, use as new wiring harness on a custom-made project, or use this part when converting from Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition. 18" length color-coded wires for easy identification. $13.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Plastic Housing Electrical Connector Only. Fits universal Off-Ignition-Start key switches listed above and other key switches with same terminal configuration. Three slots will also fit the OEM Cub Cadet garden tractor ignition key switch. Replace damaged connector when the brass slide-on spade crimp wire connectors are in good condition. Requires 1/4" width slide-on brass spade crimp wire connectors with locking tab/tang below. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling. 1/4" Width Slide-On Brass Spade Crimp Wire Connector with Locking Tab/Tang. Fits plastic housing connectors used on most Off-Ignition-Start key switches, voltage rectifier/regulators, head lights, etc. To remove old slide-on brass connector from plastic housing, use a small flat blade screwdriver to depress locking tab/tang on connector, and pull connector out of housing. Solder or use terminal crimping pliers to install on wire. Before installing the new connector, make sure locking tab/tang is slightly bent outward, and slide connector into plastic housing in the correct position until it locks/snaps in place. This part was never available from Kohler. $1.40 each, plus shipping & handling.
OFF/ON Main/Master Disconnect/Cutoff Switch with Removable Key. Use this 100 amp capacity switch to disable all power throughout the equipment to prevent sabotage an/or an accidental electrical short that could burn up the wiring system or entire equipment. Useful when equipment is not used for a period of time to prevent a slow drain on the battery, prevent short circuits when performing electrical service on equipment, or for a pulling tractor to prevent accidental starts or to prevent sabotage at the pull sites by disgruntled pullers. Connect between negative (–) battery post and equipment ground. Copper terminals with brass hex nuts for improved continuity. Comes with protective weather cap and two removable nylon key locks. Mounting hardware not included. $19.00 each, plus shipping & handling. [Return to previous paragraph, section or website]
NOTE: The use of resistor type spark plugs shortens the life of most small engine self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic armature ignition coil/modules. Therefore, it's best to use a new high quality copper core/non-resistor spark plug gapped at .025" for single cylinder and V-twin engines, and .015" each for opposed twin cylinder engines to prevent overheating of secondary windings within the coil and possibly causing premature coil failure. Set the armature to the flywheel magnet clearance (air gap) at .010". And the easiest and most accurate way to set the air gap is to use a business card, poster board, or part of the box the new coil came in. These measure about .010" thickness. Place a strip of the paper or box between the coil's armature and magnet in the flywheel and allow the magnet to pull the armature to it, then tighten the coil mounting screws securely.
Armature Ignition Coil with Integrated Solid State Electronic Integrated Module. Fits Kohler Magnum engine model M8. NOTE: Install this coil with spark plug wire facing engine block as shown in photo to the right ->. Set the air gap/clearance between the magnet in the flywheel and armature laminations at .010" with a paper or brass feeler gauge. The .010" gap produces a stronger magnetic field through the coil to generate more power for a stronger spark, and so the engine won't misfire. IMPORTANT: Use a new copper core/non-resistor Autolite or Champion spark plug of the correct type gapped at .025" for longer coil life. Use of a resistor type or NGK spark plug will void warranty. High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 41 584 03-S. $61.00 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Kohler part # 41 584 03-S. $128.05 each, plus shipping & handling. Armature Ignition Coil with Integrated Solid State Electronic Integrated Module. Fits Kohler Magnum engine models M10, M12, M14 and M16. NOTE: Install this coil with spark plug wire facing engine block as shown in photo to the right ->. Set the air gap/clearance between the magnet in the flywheel and armature laminations at .010" with a paper or brass feeler gauge. The .010" gap produces a stronger magnetic field through the coil to generate more power for a stronger spark, and so the engine won't misfire. IMPORTANT: Use a new copper core/non-resistor Autolite or Champion spark plug of the correct type gapped at .025" for longer coil life. Use of a resistor type or NGK spark plug will void warranty. High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 47 584 03-S. $30.00 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Kohler part # 47 584 03-S. $128.05 each, plus shipping & handling. Armature Ignition Coil with Integrated Solid State Electronic Integrated Module. Fits Kohler Magnum opposed twin cylinder engine models MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. NOTE: Install this coil with spark plug wires facing engine block as shown in photo to the right ->. Set the air gap/clearance between the magnet in the flywheel and armature laminations at .010" with a paper or brass feeler gauge. The .010" gap produces a stronger magnetic field through the coil to generate more power for a stronger spark, and so the engine won't misfire. IMPORTANT: Use new copper core/non-resistor Autolite or Champion spark plugs of the correct type gapped at .015" each for longer coil life. Use of resistor type or NGK spark plugs will void warranty. High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 52 584 02-S. $46.00 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Kohler part # 52 584 02-S. $208.20 each, plus shipping and handing.
Armature Ignition Coil with Integrated Solid State Electronic Integrated Magnetron™ Module. Fits Briggs and Stratton horizontal and vertical shaft opposed twin cylinder engines. NOTE: Install this coil with spark plug wires facing engine block as shown in photo to the right ->. Set the air gap/clearance between the magnet in the flywheel and armature laminations at .010" with a paper or brass feeler gauge. The .010" gap produces a stronger magnetic field through the coil to generate more power for a stronger spark, and so the engine won't misfire. IMPORTANT: Use new copper core/non-resistor Autolite or Champion spark plugs of the correct type gapped at .015" each for longer coil life. Use of resistor type or NGK spark plugs will void warranty. High quality aftermarket. Replaces Briggs and Stratton part #'s 392329, 394891, 394988, 590781. $35.00 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Briggs and Stratton part #'s 392329, 394891, 394988, 590781. $45.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
To test for the continually of an ignition coil (to see if it's in good condition), use a multimeter switched to the Ohm () setting. Insert one of the multimeter's probes into the spark plug terminal of the coil, contacting the metal inside the terminal. Touch the second probe of the meter to the ignition coil's negative (–) terminal. (This is the one not connected to the primary resistor.) Depending on the type of coil (magneto, small size, standard size or high output/performance), the meter should read 6,000 to 15,000 Ohms. If it does not, the coil's secondary winding is faulty.
Magneto Armature Ignition Coil. Fits Kohler engine model K91 with self-energizing magneto ignition. May not fit model K90 with magneto ignition. Spark plug wire (not included) inserts into front/outward curvature of coil. Reuse OEM spark plug wire. For best engine performance and longevity of the coil, set spark plug gap at .025" with this coil. NOTE: This coil should produce a stronger spark when used with the Universal Solid State Electronic Ignition Module. Or the engine can be converted to battery-powered ignition. IMPORTANT: Use a new copper core/non-resistor Autolite or Champion spark plug of the correct type gapped at .025" for longer coil life. Use of a resistor type or NGK spark plug will void warranty. Dimensions: 1.700" O.D. x 1.080" length x 1/2" x 1/2" square hole. How magneto coils generate a spark. High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 220435-S. $45.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Magneto Armature Ignition Coils. Fits certain Kohler K-series engine models K181, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331 and K341 with points, condenser/capacitor and coil under flywheel. Common with Kohler engines mounted to a generator or welder. Also fits most small- and medium-frame aluminum block Tecumseh engines with points, condenser/capacitor and coil under flywheel. For best engine performance and longevity of the coil, set spark plug gap at .025" with each coil. NOTES: These coils should produce a stronger spark when used with the Universal Solid State Electronic Ignition Module. Also, each coil listed below can be substituted for the obsolete OEM Kohler part # 275756 coil by grinding down the laminations on the armature to .405" x .405" square. Do not grind out inside of coil! To secure coil on the armature, bend one lamination over end of coil. Or engine could be converted to the more reliable battery-powered ignition system. IMPORTANT: Use a new copper core/non-resistor Autolite or Champion spark plug of the correct type gapped at .025" for longer coil life. Use of a resistor type or NGK spark plug will void warranty. Dimensions of each coil: 1.700" O.D. x 1.080" length x .405" square hole. How magneto coils generate a spark. High Quality Aftermarket Universal Magneto Armature Ignition Coil with integrated spark plug wire. Spark plug wire protrudes from rear of coil. Replaces Kohler part #'s 232901-S, 238059 (kit), 47 145 02-S, 47 755 20-S (kit), and Tecumseh part # 30560A. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling. High Quality Aftermarket Magneto Armature Ignition Coil without integrated spark plug wire. Spark plug terminal protrudes from rear of coil. Reuse OEM spark plug wire. If the spark plug wire will not pull out of the old coil, simply cut it off close to the coil, and use Super Glue to secure it in the new coil. Replaces Kohler part #'s 232901-S, 238059 (kit), 47 145 02-S, 47 755 20-S (kit), and Tecumseh part # 30560A. $35.00 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Kohler Magneto Ignition Armature Coil without Retaining Clip. Spark plug wire NOT included with coil. Reuse OEM spark plug wire. If the spark plug wire will not pull out of the old coil, simply cut it off close to the coil, and use Super Glue to secure it in the new coil. Retaining clip (237919-S) discontinued from Kohler. To secure coil on armature, bend one lamination over end of coil. OEM Kohler part # 47 145 02-S. $152.40 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Kohler Magneto Ignition Armature Coil with Retaining Clip. Spark plug wire NOT included with coil. Reuse existing spark plug wire. If the spark plug wire will not pull out of the old coil, simply cut it off close to the coil, and use Super Glue to secure it in the new coil. Retaining clip (237919-S) discontinued from Kohler. To secure coil on armature, bend one lamination over end of coil. OEM Kohler part # 47 755 20-S. $157.85 each, plus shipping & handling.
Magneto Armature Ignition Coil. Fits various Kohler engine models K141, K161, K181, KV161, L160/L161 and L181 with coil mounted on U-shape ignition stator on bearing plate underneath flywheel with magnet rotor on crankshaft. Also fits various larger cast iron block Clinton engines with coil/armature mounted on cylinder, above flywheel. Spark plug wire not included. For best engine performance and longevity of the coil, set spark plug gap at .025" with this coil. NOTE: This coil should produce a stronger spark when used with the Universal Solid State Electronic Ignition Module. Or the engine could be converted to battery-powered ignition. IMPORTANT: Use a new copper core/non-resistor Autolite or Champion spark plug of the correct type gapped at .025" for longer coil life. Use of a resistor type or NGK spark plug will void warranty. Dimensions: 1.750" diameter x 1.450" length x .505" square hole. How magneto coils generate a spark. New Old Stock. Discontinued Kohler part #'s 22089, 231718-S. $137.00 each, plus shipping & handing. (When available.)
Ignition Coils - IMPORTANT: Most failures of a battery-powered ignition coils and/or electronic ignition control modules are caused by either the use of suppression/carbon-core spark plug wire(s), resistor-type spark plug(s), or overcharging of the electrical system due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery. Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging system. Also, any coil will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system. Also, the coil could burn up if the charging system continually overcharge due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or a defective [automotive] battery. High Quality, High Energy, Compact Epoxy-Encapsulated 12 Volt Armature Ignition Coil w/3.5 Ohm internal primary resistor and integrated metal core spark plug wire. 15,000 volt output. Draws approximately 3 amps with points or electronic ignition. Includes mounting hardware. Ideal for a confined engine compartment with limited space and no place to mount a full size canister coil, or can be used to convert from an obsolete self-energizing magneto ignition system to the more reliable battery ignition system (a small 12 volt battery w/ignition switch and wiring must also be used.) Can be used for general yard and garden engines, competition pulling engines with battery ignition points and low capacity condenser, or with crank trigger ignition. Coil can withstand high engine vibrations. To install this coil, drill two 7/32" holes in alignment with holes in coil's armature through flywheel shroud next to carburetor or above starter gear and tack-weld the two supplied nuts (in alignment with drilled holes) or tack-weld head of screws (to serve as studs) to inside of shroud, and securely fasten coil with the two supplied spacers, lock washers to nuts or screws. (When fastened to flywheel shroud, coil will have a nice, distinctive appearance, and like it's factory-installed.) Comes with separate spark plug boot and terminal. If necessary and for your application, shorten the spark plug wire (don't cut it off too short!), and to install terminal, make sure the pointed prong on the terminal penetrates the insulation of the wire, or strip a short part of the insulation and bend over the wire to make full connect with the terminal, and use a spark plug wire crimping tool, then apply automotive grease on the spark plug wire and inside boot so it will slide easily on the wire and over the terminal. Use #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors when connecting wires to coil terminals. IMPORTANT: Use a new copper core/non-resistor Autolite or Champion spark plug of the correct type gapped at .030" for longer coil life. Use of a resistor type or NGK spark plug will void warranty. Dimensions: 3-1/2" overall length of armature x 1-1/4" diameter of coil body x 1-1/2" widest width of coil body x 3-1/8" mounting hole spacing: x 13-1/2" length of spark plug wire. How battery-powered ignition coils work. A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.) [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website] High Energy, Compact Armature Ignition Coil without mounting hardware. (Customer supplies own hardware.) $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling. High Energy, Compact Armature Ignition Coil with mounting hardware. (Includes coil w/spark plug boot and terminal, two screws, two nuts, two lock washers and two spacers.). $30.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Full Size High Energy Output Oil-Filled 12 Volt Canister Ignition Coils - Each coil listed below have a 3.0 Ohm internal primary resistor and mounting bracket. 20,000 volts output. Draws 3-4 amps with points or electronic ignition. Use with medium capacity condenser. For longevity of the coil, use a metal core coil-to-spark plug wire and a copper core/non-resistor spark plug [Autolite or Champion] gapped at .035". Replace defective coil or use this part when converting from Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition. IMPORTANT: Use a new copper core/non-resistor Autolite or Champion spark plug of the correct type gapped at .035" for longer coil life. Use of a resistor type or NGK spark plug will void warranty. Used, tested and in excellent condition. Comes with a 90 day limited warranty. OEM Kohler part # 41 519 21-S. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. High quality aftermarket coil. Replaces Kohler part # 41 519 21-S. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Kohler Coil, part # 41 519 21-S. Replaces John Deere part # AM38411 and Tecumseh part # 32080. $88.61 each, plus shipping & handling. Full Size High-Output/Performance Epoxy-Filled Bosch Blue 12 Volt Canister Ignition Coil w/3.0 Ohm internal primary resistor and mounting bracket. 30,000 volts output. Draws less than 5 amps with points or electronic ignition. Vibration-Resistant Epoxy-Filled. For longevity of the coil, use a metal core coil-to-spark plug wire and a copper core/non-resistor spark plug [Autolite or Champion] gapped at .060". Use with ignition points and two medium capacity condensers/capacitors or one high capacity/performance ignition condenser/capacitor for full coil saturation and a strong spark so engine will rev up at open speed, or can be used with ignition points and condenser or A-1 Miller's custom-made crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition kits. This genuine Bosch blue coil is epoxy filled with a steel casing. All epoxy filled or molded epoxy coils will hold up to severe vibrations, can be mounted in any position and will not leak oil (because there is no oil). IMPORTANT: Use a new copper core/non-resistor Autolite or Champion spark plug of the correct type gapped at .060" for longer coil life. Use of a resistor type or NGK spark plug will void warranty. $60.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
New 1.6 Ohm Ballast Resistor for use with any 12 volt ignition coil not having an internal resistor (listed above È) to prevent excessive burning of ignition points contacts, or use with the Chrysler / Dodge / Plymouth (MOPAR) electronic ignition control module/unit (ICU) , or connect with coil having a 1.2 Ohm internal primary resistor to prevent burning up the DynaTek Dyna S ignition control module/sensors. Install between the coil positive (+) terminal and wire coming from the ignition switch to the coil. This will allow the ignition points to possibly last the life of the engine. NOTE: Ignition resistors with a higher Ohm value are known as "Point Savers." The higher the Ohm primary resistance in an ignition coil or a ballast resistor has, the longer the ignition points will last (as long as the ignition points are installed clean, and doesn't become contaminated with dust, oil, water, etc.). Any 12 volt ignition coil with a 3.0 Ohm internal primary resistor connected to a minimum 1.6 Ohm ballast resistor when used in a ignition points and condenser/capacitor ignition system will allow the ignition points to possibly last the life of the engine. Because the increased resistance allows a very low current/voltage to pass through the contacts in the ignition points. Also, a suppression/carbon core spark plug wire and resistor type spark plug shouldn't be used in this system due to overheating of the ignition coil. Therefore, it's best that a metal conductor spark plug wire and copper core/non-resistor spark plug be used. The ignition system will still produce a strong spark because an average small engine requires only a fraction of voltage from the coil. This is best to used with general lawn & garden, snow removal, etc., and not for competitive pulling. $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling. [Return to previous paragraph, section or website]
IMPORTANT: Most failures of a battery-powered ignition coils and/or electronic ignition control modules are caused by either the use of suppression/carbon-core spark plug wire(s), resistor-type spark plug(s), or overcharging of the electrical system due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery. Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging system. Also, any coil will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system. Also, the coil could burn up if the charging system continually overcharge due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or a defective [automotive] battery. Click here to install electronic ignition on the KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series II engines. High Quality Epoxy-Encapsulated 4.0 Ohm 12 Volt Armature Universal Ignition Coil with Molded-In Dual Metal Core Spark Plug Wires for Opposed Twin Cylinder Engines. Can be used on Kohler engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532, K582, K660/K662, Onan opposed twin cylinder engines, or virtually any opposed twin cylinder small engine with a fabricated bracket. Mounting hardware included for custom applications. Two 90º spark plug boots and terminals included. Can be used with A-1 Miller's custom-made crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition or the low capacity condenser with points listed further above. IMPORTANT: Use new copper core/non-resistor Autolite or Champion spark plugs of the correct type gapped at .025" each for longer coil life. Use of a resistor type or NGK spark plug will void warranty. Draws approximately 3 amps with points or electronic ignition. Dimensions: 4" overall length including mounting bracket x 2-1/8" body width x 15" low tension wires x (2) molded-in 24" length spark plug wires. 20,000 volts output. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling. High Quality Chrome-Plated 4.0 Ohm Oil Filled 12 Volt Canister Ignition Coil with Dual Metal Core Conductor Spark Plug Wires for Opposed Twin Cylinder Engine. Fits Kohler engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II. Same diameter as OEM Kohler coil. Two 90º spark plug boots and terminals included. Can be used with A-1 Miller's custom-made crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition or the low capacity condenser with points listed further above. IMPORTANT: Use new copper core/non-resistor Autolite or Champion spark plugs of the correct type gapped at .025" each for longer coil life. Use of a resistor type or NGK spark plug will void warranty. Draws approximately 3 amps with points or electronic ignition. Includes: (1) dual tower chrome-plated ignition coil, (2) rubber spark plug wire grommets, (2) plastic thread-on coil boots, (2) 90º spark plug boots w/terminals, and (2) 18" length spark plug wires. Coil dimensions: 4-1/4" length (excluding towers) x 2-1/8" body width x 2-1/4" tower end band width. 20,000 volts output. Replaces Kohler part # 52 755 48-S. $64.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Epoxy-Encapsulated 4.0 Ohm 12 Volt Canister Ignition Coils for Opposed Twin Cylinder Engine. Each coil below fits Kohler engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II. Can be used with A-1 Miller's custom-made crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition or the low capacity condenser with points listed further above. IMPORTANT: Use new copper core/non-resistor Autolite or Champion spark plugs of the correct type gapped at .025" each for longer coil life. Use of a resistor type or NGK spark plug will void warranty. Draws approximately 3 amps with points or electronic ignition. High Quality Aftermarket. Same appearance and dimensions as OEM Kohler coil. Replaces Kohler part # 52 755 48-S. $62.00 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Kohler coil with spark plug wires; part # 52 755 48-S. $337.00 each, plus shipping and handing. Epoxy-Encapsulated 12 Volt Ignition Coils for Opposed Twin Cylinder Engine. Each listed below fits Kohler engine models K482, K532, K582, or virtually any opposed twin cylinder small engine with a fabricated bracket. Can be used with A-1 Miller's custom-made crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition or the low capacity condenser with points listed further above. IMPORTANT: Use new copper core/non-resistor Autolite or Champion spark plugs of the correct type gapped at .025" each for longer coil life. Use of a resistor type or NGK spark plug will void warranty. Draws approximately 3 amps with points or electronic ignition. High quality aftermarket. 5.0 Ohm internal primary resistor. 20,000 volts output. Replaces Kohler part # 277375-S. $55.00 each, plus shipping & handing. High quality aftermarket. 3.0 Ohm internal primary resistor. 30,000 volts output. Replaces Kohler part # 277375-S. $55.00 each, plus shipping & handing. OEM Kohler Coil, part # 277375-S. $293.10 each, plus shipping and handing.
High Quality High Performance Copper or Metal Core 7mm Spark Plug Wire Assemblies Listed Below. Universal design for many applications. Suitable for general lawn & garden equipment, small motorized vehicles or competition garden pulling tractor engines. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series II, K482, K532, K582 and K660/K662 (with wires cut to desired length) and other makes and models of small engines with a battery-powered ignition system. Don't be fooled by the dark color, these wires have a metal core that provide 100% voltage to the spark plug for a strong spark! Copper or metal wire delivers maximum energy with zero Ohm resistance to the spark plug, which allow the ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. (Most OEM automotive or brightly-colored coil-to-spark plug wires have a suppression/carbon core that deliver about 40%-50% voltage to the spark plug at peak demand, which is at wide open throttle engine operation.) Solid brass terminals for maximum conductivity and corrosion resistance. Snug-fitting quality rubber boots keep out dirt and moisture for reliable engine start up. Engineered for reliability and long life. Spring-lock terminals insure positive and secure connection through the toughest conditions and multiple spark plug changes. Please specify if you need the boot for a 5/8" (fits most dual wire twin cylinder coils and high-output/performance coils) or 3/4" (fits most standard-output coils) diameter coil tower. 10" Length Metal Core Spark Plug Wire with Straight Coil Boot/Terminal and 90º/Angled Spark Plug Boot/Terminal Installed. Fits Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321 and K341 with coil mounted next to carburetor on upper left side of flywheel shroud. Replace defective coil-to-spark plug wire or use this part when converting from Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition. High quality aftermarket. Fabricated A-1 Miller's part. Irrelevant Kohler part number. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling. 13" Length Metal Core Spark plug Wire with Straight Coil Boot/Terminal and 90º/Angled Spark Plug Boot/Terminal Installed. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K241, K301, K321 and K341 with coil mounted on carburetor side of engine on lower left part of flywheel shroud or on starter/right side of engine. Also fits Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) engine models K241, K301, K321, K341 and K361 with coil mounted above starter motor, or use this part when converting from Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition. High quality aftermarket. Fabricated A-1 Miller's part. Replaces discontinued OEM Kohler part # 238057-S. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling. 11" and 19" Length Metal Core Spark Plug Wire Set with Straight Coil Boot/Terminal and 90º/Angled Spark Plug Boot/Terminal Installed. Fits Kohler engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) and KT19 Series II. High quality aftermarket. Fabricated A-1 Miller's parts. Replaces discontinued Kohler part #'s 52 348 01-S (11") and 52 348 02-S (19"). $20.00 for two spark plug wires, plus shipping & handling. Two 18" Length Metal Core Spark Plug Wire Set with Straight Coil Boot/Terminal and 90º/Angled Spark Plug Boot/Terminal Installed. Fits Kohler engine models K482, K532, K582, K660/K662, or Onan opposed twin cylinder engines. High quality aftermarket. Fabricated A-1 Miller's parts. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 238057-S. $20.00 for two spark plug wires, plus shipping & handling. 25-1/2" length spark plug wire. Universal application. OEM Kohler part # 25 348 01-S. $13.80 each, plus shipping & handling.
Complete Battery-Powered Ignition Conversion Kits listed below - When Kohler's OEM magneto or Breakerless Ignition fails, the engine can be converted to a battery-powered ignition system. Battery-powered ignition systems last longer, produce a stronger spark, and when a part goes bad, it doesn't cost much to replace. It's a reliable, simple design and there's no guesswork about it. FYI: Battery-powered ignition conversion kits are intended mainly for various older engines when the OEM magneto or Breakerless Ignition no longer produce a spark, replacement parts are not available or are very expensive (cost prohibitive). Also, the most hassle when using battery-powered ignition without a charging system integrated with the engine to recharge the battery is the use of a remote battery charger. And eventually a new battery will need to be purchased, because they only last a few years. For a battery to power the ignition, a small, lightweight and rechargeable 12 volt sealed lead acid (SLA) battery with a minimum 4Ah (Amp Hour) rating or a small motorcycle battery can be used. FYI - Kohler's Breakerless Ignition and Tecumseh's Solid State Ignition (SSI) systems use a key switch that's also made for a self-energizing magneto or magneto-type solid state ignition system. Unlike the key switch for a battery-powered ignition system, the Breakerless Ignition is self-energizing, and to kill the engine, the key switch grounds out or shorts the [low voltage] circuit between the energizing coil and ignition module. And the battery-powered key switch opens the circuit to kill the engine. So with the battery-powered points and condenser ignition system (along with a 12 volt coil), you will need to use a battery-powered key switch, or an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or [security] key switch to power the ignition and a momentary push button starter switch. to crank the engine could be used instead. If swapping out the OEM Breakerless Ignition, magneto or solid state ignition key switch for a battery-powered ignition key switch, the wire connectors in the wiring harness will need to be rearranged to match the terminals on the key switch to power the ignition, crank the engine and run other electrical accessories. I've done this before on some of my customer's garden tractors and it works great. Click/tap here for battery-powered ignition wiring diagrams.
Several years ago, an out of town customer brought his John Deere model 110 to our shop for repairs. This tractor has a Kohler engine model K181 with self-energizing magneto ignition and a 10 amp alternator charging system. (The ignition coil and charging coils are on the same armature/stator plate under the flywheel.) My customer told me that he had another reputable small engine repair shop in his hometown install a new spark plug, points, condenser and an entirely new stator assembly, but they could not get the engine to rev up. Anyway, I put the tractor on the sturdy platform table that I built to make it easier to work on. The engine would start right up and idle well, but failed to rev up. It would just die out when throttled up. So I cleaned and inspected the entire carburetor, including clearing out anything that may have been lodged in the main jet; tried a new Autolite 295 copper core spark plug gapped at .030"; cleaned and reset the points gap; tried another new condenser; removed the new stator assembly and reinstalled the original stator assembly; installed a new OEM Kohler magneto armature ignition coil on the stator; and even tried a different flywheel, but with all of these things, one after the other, the engine would still die out above idle, no matter what. Then I connected a temporary battery-powered ignition system with jumper wires with alligator clips just to find if the engine would rev up at open throttle, and it did, with no problems! Then after all of this, I found that the charging system would not generate the full 10 amps to recharge the battery. It would only generate about 3 amps. (The tractor had a factory-installed amp gauge.) The voltage rectifier/regulator was in good condition too, but there was nothing I could do to fix this. But not all JD 110's have this problem. Only a few of them. So after some thoughtful consideration, I came to the conclusion that the OEM Kohler part # 237876 self-energizing magneto ignition/charging system stator assembly is obviously a notorious, bad design. Although this system is still available new from Kohler, Kohler discontinued installing this on certain engines only after a short time. (Apparently, for an obvious reason.) Anyway, I decided (actually, I had no choice because I was so determined) to convert the engine to the more reliable battery-powered ignition system. But being this JD 110 has a confined engine compartment with limited space and with the air cleaner assembly that fastens directly to the carburetor with no upward intake elbow, there is no place to mount a full size 12 volt canister ignition coil. So I fastened a new compact epoxy-encapsulated 12 volt armature ignition coil on the carburetor side of the flywheel shroud. I removed the shroud, located where to drill two 7/32" holes to mount the coil, and although Rivet Nuts could have been used, I just tack-welded a couple of 10-24 UNC (or 10-32 UNF) nuts inside the shroud. Then I used a couple of spacers for the coil's armature, and fastened the coil to the nuts through the shroud with a couple of matching 10-24 UNC (or 10-32 UNF) screws with split lock washers. (The coil looked nice on the engine, like it's factory installed.) I could have tack-welded the head of the screws on the inside of the flywheel shroud instead, and fastened the coil with a couple of nuts on the screws from the outside. Either way would've worked fine. Anyway, then I replaced the OEM JD 110 magneto-type off-ignition-start key switch with a new universal battery-type off-ignition-start key switch. I traced each wire from the OEM key switch and rearranged the slide-on spade connectors in the plastic connector housing on the switch to match the terminals on the battery-type ignition key switch and connected the "I" terminal on the switch to the [+] terminal on the coil so the ignition system will work. I reused the same ignition points and low capacity condenser with the compact coil. The low capacity/magneto ignition condenser worked great with the compact battery-powered armature ignition coil! And I gapped the spark plug at .030" for this compact coil. When I finished, the engine started right up, idled smoothly, and revved up at open throttle with no hesitation or misfire. When my customer came to pick up his tractor, I told him everything I did to it, and being the charging system is weak, he will need to use a 120 volt portable battery charger to keep the battery fully charged. If you have a similar ignition problem like this and if you're interested, I offer all the parts, including a new compact epoxy-encapsulated 12 volt armature ignition coil kit, that can be used to convert the self-energizing magneto ignition to battery-powered ignition for your tractor. See the complete ignition conversion kit(s) below. I can also convert your tractor from a faulty self-energizing magneto ignition to the more reliable battery-powered ignition if you don't mind bringing your tractor to my shop. - Brian Miller Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the products listed in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page] Convert virtually any single cylinder, air-cooled cast iron or various aluminum block small gas engine, such as Kohler, Tecumseh, Briggs & Stratton, Clinton, etc., with a failed self-energizing magneto ignition system to the battery-powered ignition system. NOTE: Must use a universal automotive off/ignition/start key switch, or a push-button switch to crank the engine with an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or [security] key switch to power this ignition. Reuse same type of spark plug and existing ignition points (if in good condition), but set the point gap at .020" or set ignition timing at 20º BTDC. See ignition kits and wiring diagram below Ê. High Quality Ignition Kit to Convert from Kohler Magneto Ignition to the More Reliable Battery-Powered Ignition System for a Confined Engine Compartment with Limited Space and no place to mount a full size canister coil. A fully charged 12 volt battery is required for this ignition system. Designed for Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331 and K341. When ordering, please indicate model of engine. New parts include: high energy compact epoxy-encapsulated 12 volt armature ignition coil w/3.5 Ohm internal primary resistor and integrated metal core spark plug wire, with mounting spacers/screws/nuts; low capacity condenser/capacitor; ignition points; points cover gasket; 9" length "assemble-it-yourself" #16 gauge (AWG) coil-to-points wire w/terminals (reuse original points cover/wire grommet); and new spark plug. To install terminal on spark plug wire, make sure the pointed prong on the terminal penetrates the insulation of the wire, or strip a short part of the insulation and bend over the wire to make full connect with the terminal, and use a spark plug wire crimping tool, then apply automotive grease on the spark plug wire and inside boot so it will slide easily on the wire and over the terminal. And if using this kit on an engine with a recoil starter, as for the battery cables, being I have no idea how long they need to be, you will need to fabricate these yourself. When ordering, please specify model of engine for correct type of spark plug. Dimensions of coil - overall length of armature: 3-1/2" x diameter of coil body: 1-1/4" x widest width of coil body: 1-1/2" x mounting hole spacing: 3-1/8" x length of spark plug wire: 13-1/2". To install this coil, drill two 7/32" holes in alignment with holes in coil's armature through flywheel shroud next to carburetor or above starter gear and tack-weld the two supplied nuts (in alignment with drilled holes) or tack-weld head of screws (to serve as studs) to inside of shroud, and securely fasten coil with the two supplied spacers, lock washers to nuts or screws. (When fastened to flywheel shroud, coil will have a nice, distinctive appearance, and like it's factory-installed.) Use #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors when connecting wires to this coil terminals. Set spark plug gap at .030" with this system. IMPORTANT - Either an OFF-ON-START 12 volt battery-powered ignition key switch, a momentary push button starter switch. (to crank the engine if it is equipped with an electric starter) with an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition) MUST be used with this type of ignition system. Go here for choice of switches. The original magneto coil can be removed from the stator. It will not be needed. If the stator has charging coils, leave them installed and connected so they can recharge the battery and power electrical accessories. IMPORTANT: Most failures of a battery-powered ignition coils and/or electronic ignition control modules are caused by either the use of suppression/carbon-core spark plug wire(s), resistor-type spark plug(s), or overcharging of the electrical system due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery. Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging system. Also, any coil will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system. Also, the coil could burn up if the charging system continually overcharge due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or a defective [automotive] battery. A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.) Complete Ignition Kit listed above without any switches. (Customer supplies own switches.) $69.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling. Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON toggle/flip ignition switch for engines with a recoil starter. $72.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling. Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON toggle/flip ignition switch and momentary push button starter switch. (to crank the engine) for engines with an electric starter. $81.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling. Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON-START battery-powered ignition key switch for engines with an electric starter. $114.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling. Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON ignition key switch and momentary push button starter switch. (to crank the engine) for engines with an electric starter. $123.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling. High Quality Ignition Kit to Convert from Kohler Magneto Ignition to the More Reliable Battery-Powered Ignition System for an Unconfined Engine Compartment with Unlimited Space to mount a full size canister coil. A fully charged 12 volt battery is required for this ignition system. Designed for Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331 and K341. When ordering, please indicate model of engine. New parts include: full size canister 12 volt ignition coil w/3.0 Ohm internal primary resistor and mounting bracket, 11" length metal core conductor spark plug wire, medium capacity condenser/capacitor, ignition points, points cover gasket, 12" length "assemble-it-yourself" #16 gauge (AWG) coil-to-points wire w/terminals (reuse original points cover/wire grommet), and new spark plug (please specify model of engine when ordering for correct type of spark plug). Set spark plug gap at .035" with this system. And if using this kit on an engine with a recoil starter, as for the battery cables, being I have no idea how long they need to be, you will need to fabricate these yourself. IMPORTANT - Either an OFF-ON-START battery-powered ignition key switch or an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition) and a momentary push button starter switch. (to crank the engine if it is equipped with an electric starter) MUST be used with this type of ignition system. Go here for choice of switches. And the original magneto coil can be removed from the stator. It will not be needed. If the stator has charging coils, leave them installed and connected so they can recharge the battery and power electrical accessories. IMPORTANT: Most failures of a battery-powered ignition coils and/or electronic ignition control modules are caused by either the use of suppression/carbon-core spark plug wire(s), resistor-type spark plug(s), or overcharging of the electrical system due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery. Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging system. Also, any coil will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system. Also, the coil could burn up if the charging system continually overcharge due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or a defective [automotive] battery. Complete Ignition Kit listed above without any switches. (Customer supplies own switches.) $65.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling. Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON toggle/flip ignition switch for engines with a recoil starter. $68.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling.. Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON ignition key switch and momentary push button starter switch. (to crank the engine) for engines with an electric starter. $89.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling. Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON-START battery-powered ignition key switch for engines with an electric starter. $110.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]
Click/tap Here for a Custom-Made, Reliable and Maintenance-Free Electronic Ignition System That Operate Off the Flywheel End of a Lawn & Garden Small Engine to Eliminate the Points and Condenser.	Click/tap Here for a Custom-Made, Reliable and Maintenance-Free Crank-Trigger Electronic Ignition System That Operate Off the PTO End of a Competition Pulling Small Engine to Eliminate the Points and Condenser.
New points, condensers/capacitors, coils and spark plugs for other makes and models of engines are also available. Please call or email A-1 Miller's for your needs. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any of the above È parts.

How to Accurately Set the Ignition Timing on Virtually Any Gas Engine with Points and Condenser Ignition - [Top of Page]

First of all, on a single cylinder cast iron block Kohler engine, anything less than a .020" (which is 20º BTDC) points gap is retarding the ignition timing less than its normal setting, and more than .020" is advancing the timing beyond its normal setting. But sometimes the points lobe on the cam will wear, and the ignition timing can't be fully advanced with a .020" points gap for the 20º BTDC setting. On a Kohler (and virtually any engine without an ignition distributor), widening or narrowing of the points gap is how the ignition timing is adjusted. Widening the gap advances the timing and narrowing it retards the timing, and rotating the distributor does the same. On a Kohler engine, adjust the ignition points by first positioning the piston at TDC on the compression stroke. This is when both valves are fully closed. Then slightly loosen the adjustment screw on the ignition points and place the flat screwdriver in the slot on the points bracket and points lever to widen and narrow the point gap. Then use a [clean] .020" feeler gauge to set the gap. If the screw that fastens the ignition points to the bracket is difficult to get at with a screwdriver on the equipment, then install a socket (Allen) Head screw and use an angled hex key (Allen) wrench to loosen and tighten the screw that secures the ignition points in place. Delayed or hesitant revving up of the engine indicates either low compression, or the ignition timing is retarded and not set at 20º BTDC.

Most spark ignited gas engines with a fixed advanced timing can't start under full compression AND with fixed advanced ignition timing. With fixed advanced timing, one or the other must be "suppressed" in order for the engine to crank over without "kicking back" to start. Either it needs to have an automatic compression release to relieve about half the compression, then full compression will return upon start up. Or the timing needs to be positioned at TDC, then with an automatic advance feature, it will fully advance upon start up. On engines with a camshaft having an automatic compression release (ACR), the ignition timing cannot be advanced more than approximately 25º BTDC. If it is, the spark will occur when the exhaust valve opens slightly (to relieve the compression), and the engine may not start or be hard to start. It may pop out the carburetor instead. If the timing needs to be set more than 25º BTDC (for methanol fuel), the ACR will need to be removed from the camshaft, and to make the engine easier to crank over and start under full compression, a high torque gear starter, heavy [steel] flywheel, along with separate starter and ignition switches will need to be used to prevent "kickback" when attempting to start the engine. "Kickback" occurs when the crankshaft/flywheel suddenly and quickly momentarily rotates in the opposite direction, which is could bend or break the starter armature shaft or break the aluminum starter housing. To start any engine with advanced timing and under full compression, two separate switches will need to be used. A push-button switch to crank the engine, and an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or [security] key switch to power the ignition. To make this work, first crank the engine over, and while it's cranking over, choke the carburetor (or use my remote fuel primer system, which is much easier to use), then flip the ignition switch to "put the spark to it." The engine should start easily every time. This method works because the continuing centrifugal spinning force of the flywheel prevents the engine from "kicking back" when power is being supplied to the ignition.

A way to start an engine with an electric starter that has full compression and no automatic compression release AND fixed or "set in the fully advanced position" full advanced timing is to use two separate switches. One to crank the engine, and one for the ignition to "put the spark to it " so it will start without kickback.

FYI - I've been to lots of car races, and truck and tractor pulls through the years, and I've noticed that when most drivers start the engine, they would crank it over first with a push-button switch, then flip the ignition toggle switch on, and the engine would start every time without hesitation. This is because the engine is (obviously) high compression AND with a fixed or "set in the fully advanced position" ignition timing. Cranking the engine this way prevents it from kicking back, and it prevents damage to the aluminum starter motor housing. - Brian Miller

The point gap on virtually all 4-cycle small gas engines, rather if it has one or two cylinders, is set at .020" using a feeler gauge with the piston positioned at TDC on the compression stroke. This is when the valves (#1 cylinder for a opposed twin cylinder) are fully closed. This sets the ignition timing approximately at 20º BTDC (Kohler engines), and is the most easiest and simplest way to basically set the timing. A better way is to statically (engine not running) set the timing. But the most accurate way is use an automotive strobe timing light to dynamically set the timing. The timing light connects to the battery and spark plug wire.

Static ignition timing is when it is checked or set with the engine not running using a continuity tester (self-powered test light, analog multimeter or digital multimeter, switch either on the Ohm (d) setting, and make sure the battery in either multimeter is fully charged. And dynamic ignition timing is when it is checked or set with the engine running using an automotive inductive strobe timing light. To accurately set the ignition timing on an engine with points, condenser/capacitor and a stock flywheel, make sure the battery in either multimeter is fully charged. The points contacts will act as a momentary switch to turn the test light off and on or make resistance in either meter. To make this happen...

1. Connect one lead of the continuity tester (self-powered test light, analog multimeter or digital multimeter, switch either on the Ohm setting) to the ignition points terminal screw or the points wire (disconnect it from the coil first) and the other lead to engine/chassis ground so the points will serve as a switch to illuminate the light or activate the meter.
2. To test the connection, with the piston positioned at 0º TDC on the compression stroke, set the points gap initially at .020" with a feeler gauge, then slowly rotate the crankshaft (flywheel) back and forth by hand to open and close the points and observe if the light comes on and off, or the meter is activated and deactivated. IMPORTANT - Sometimes oxidation will form on points contacts from sitting in storage, even when wrapped in plastic. This happens A LOT with new small engine and automotive ignition points. Therefore, while the points are closed under pressure, use a clean steel fingernail file or ignition points file to remove any oxidation/debris between the contacts, then drag a piece of clean lint-free paper through the contacts to remove any left-over residue, and use brake parts cleaner, electrical/electronic contact cleaner, cleaning solvent or paint thinner (these leave no oily residue) and then use 150± psi compressed air with an air blow gun nozzle to clean any remaining debris and metal filings from the contacts. This will guarantee 100% connection with the points. Do not use sanding material, such as sandpaper or emery cloth, to clean any electrical contacts! These will leave a gritty residue between the contacts, causing a faulty connection.
3. On Kohler flywheels, there should be a T and S stamped on the outer edge of the flywheel with a line stamped underneath each letter. Clean the area off, and use a Sharpie metallic silver permanent marker, yellow or white paint marker, or a white or yellow paint mark with a small artist brush, to place a brightly colored mark on the S mark [punched line] so it can be easily seen with the naked eye and with an automotive inductive timing light. The timing light connects to the battery and spark plug wire. T stands for TDC, which is 0º TDC. This is where the ignition timing sets if the engine is equipped with an older two-piece camshaft with a rotating automatic timing advance mechanism (ignition points lobe). And S stands for Spark Advance, which is 20º BTDC. This is where the timing sets if the engine is equipped with a one-piece camshaft that came with an automatic compression release (ACR) mechanism. On the Kohler K-series 10-16hp cast iron block engines, there are three different places where the timing sight hole is located. It's on either side of the flywheel shroud, or on the back of the bearing plate on the right side, such as with engines having a starter/generator, when facing the flywheel. You will need to look under the starter bracket to see the sight hole. It may have a factory installed zinc hole plug in it. If the timing sight hole is on either side of the flywheel shroud, then the timing marks are located on the outer edge of the flywheel. But if the timing sight hole is on the backside of the bearing plate, then the timing marks are located on the backside edge of the flywheel. If the marks can't be seen, then the flywheel will need to be cleaned off and depending on type of camshaft that's in the engine, the brightly colored mark with a Sharpie metallic silver permanent marker, yellow or white paint marker, or a white or yellow paint mark with a small artist brush, needs to placed on the stamped line under the T mark (0º TDC) for the older two-piece camshaft with the automatic timing advance, or on the stamped line under the S mark (20º BTDC) for the newer one piece camshaft with the automatic compression release (ACR). If there is a T mark, but no visible S mark on the flywheel, for flywheels with the timing mark on the outer edge on the left side, the S is located exactly 1-5/8" (1.625") above the T mark. And for flywheels with the timing mark on the outer or backside edge of the flywheel on the right side, the S is located exactly 1-5/8" (1.625") below the T mark. If there's no timing marks at all on the flywheel, such as with certain billet steel flywheels, the flywheel will need to be degreed-in with a degree wheel, dial indicator and piston stop to create new timing marks. Some billet steel flywheels have the timing marks inscribed on the backside edge of the flywheel, and must be transferred to the outer edge for visibility when using a factory flywheel shroud.
   
4. Slowly rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand, and when the timing mark on the flywheel (S for ACR camshaft or T for two-piece camshaft) is aligned with the center of the sight hole or raised line on the bearing plate and at the same time, observe the continuity tester (Ohmmeter or self-powered test light). The Ohmmeter should show an intermittent connection or the test light should flicker. If necessary, widen or narrow the point gap until the ignition points make contact the exact moment the timing marks are aligned. It is at this position when the ignition timing is accurately set. No further adjustments is required.
5. Timing for gas fuels can vary from 20º-22º BTDC for low octane; 100% automotive gas, to 30º BTDC for high octane race gas, aviation gas, or automotive gas w/10% ethanol.
6. It'll be a good thing to check the ignition timing periodically as the ignition points contacts wear.
7. Engines can't start under full compression and with advanced ignition timing. One or the other must be "suppressed" in order for the engine to crank over without "kicking back" to start. Either it needs to have an automatic compression release to relieve about half the compression, then the compression will return at open upon start up, or the timing needs to be positioned at TDC, then it can automatically advance upon start up. On engines with a camshaft having an automatic compression release (ACR), the ignition timing cannot be advanced more than approximately 25º BTDC. If it is, the spark will occur when the exhaust valve opens slightly (to relieve the compression), and the engine may not start or be hard to start. It may pop out the carburetor instead. If the timing needs to be set more than 25º BTDC (for methanol fuel), the ACR will need to be removed from the camshaft, and to make the engine easier to crank over and start under full compression, a high torque gear starter, heavy [steel] flywheel, along with separate starter and ignition switches will need to be used to prevent "kickback" when attempting to start the engine. With advanced timing, and no mechanical timing retard or no automatic compression release, chances are this will cause the engine to "kickback" when attempting to start it. "kickback" occurs when the crankshaft/flywheel suddenly and quickly momentarily rotates in the opposite direction, which is could bend or break the starter armature shaft or break the aluminum starter housing. To start any engine with advanced timing and under full compression, two separate switches will need to be used. A push-button switch to crank the engine, and an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or [security] key switch to power the ignition. To make this work, first crank the engine over, and while it's cranking over, choke the carburetor (or use A-1 Miller's remote fuel primer system, which is much easier to use), then flip the ignition switch to "put the spark to it." The engine should start easily every time. This method works because the continuing spinning centrifugal force of the flywheel prevents the engine from "kicking back" when power is being supplied to the ignition.

The most accurate way to set the ignition timing is dynamically. This is with the engine running and an automotive strobe timing light. The timing light connects to the battery and spark plug wire. Connect the timing light (if it has an adjustable degree wheel, set it at 0º), then start the engine. With the engine running at idle speed, shine the timing light through the sight hole in the flywheel shroud to see the painted "S" mark on the flywheel and the raised line on the bearing plate. When the marks are perfectly aligned, this is when the timing is set exactly at 20º BTDC. This cannot be done on an aftermarket steel flywheel or [starter] pulley on the PTO end of the crankshaft with no timing marks.

The ignition timing greatly depends on where the spark plug is located in the combustion chamber. Most plugs are centered in the combustion chamber. But if it's closer to the exhaust valve, the timing must be advanced slightly more. Location of the spark plug in the combustion chamber and proper ignition timing are two things that's very important in engine performance. Actually, it's best to set the timing with some test pulls or with the engine connected to an engine dynamometer.

Setting the Ignition Timing with an Automotive Non-Inductive or Inductive Strobe Timing Light -

NOTE: The above È method is sufficiently accurate and useful in building a fresh engine and not having to mess with adjusting the ignition points just to get the engine started for the first time. However, after getting the engine started, it's always a good thing to use either an automotive non-inductive or inductive strobe timing light to check to see if the timing is set exactly where it's supposed to be. The timing light connects to the battery and spark plug wire. This is called setting the timing dynamically. Use a timing light when the timing marks on both the bearing plate and flywheel are perfectly aligned. The ignition timing setting for Kohler engines burning GAS is 20-22º BTDC. NEVER run over-advanced timing (beyond the 22º setting) with gas just to try to get "more power" out of an engine! All that'll do is seriously overheat the engine and ruin parts. [Return to previous paragraph, section or website]

To use a non-inductive strobe timing light (these are very old and are considered obsolete because they produce a dim light), connect one lead on the spark plug itself (on a opposed twin cylinder engine, connect it on the #1 cylinder spark plug) and connect the other lead on the coil, then start the engine.

To use an inductive strobe timing light, the engine can be running while connecting the clamps on the battery posts in their respective order, then connect the inductive pickup on the spark plug wire. On a opposed twin cylinder engine, connect it on the #1 cylinder spark plug wire. (The #1 cylinder is the one closest to the flywheel.) If using an inductive strobe timing light with an advance adjustment, make sure it's set at 0 (zero) before setting the timing at the S mark.

Engines can't start under full compression and with advanced ignition timing. One or the other must be "suppressed" in order for the engine to crank over without "kicking back" to start. Either it needs to have an automatic compression release to relieve about half the compression, then the compression will return at open upon start up, or the timing needs to be positioned at TDC, then it can automatically advance upon start up. If an engine has an automatic compression release on the camshaft and the valve clearance is set right (at least for the exhaust valve), chances are the engine will not "kickback" when attempting to start the engine. "kickback" occurs when the crankshaft/flywheel suddenly and violently rebounds or rotates in the opposite direction, which is could bend or break the starter armature shaft or break the aluminum starter housing. To start any engine with advanced timing and under full compression, two separate switches will need to be used. A push-button switch to crank the engine, and an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or [security] key switch to power the ignition. To make this work, first crank the engine over, and while it's cranking over, choke the carburetor (or use A-1 Miller's remote fuel primer system, which is much easier to use), then flip the ignition switch to "put the spark to it." The engine should start easily every time. This method works because the continuing spinning centrifugal force of the flywheel prevents the engine from "kicking back" when power is being supplied to the ignition.

The ignition on Kohler engines aren't like the ignition on most automotive engines. You don't dwell-in the ignition points on a Kohler engine. Instead, you set the point gap at .020" as the initial setting just to get the engine running. Then the ignition timing is set by widening or narrowing the ignition points gap until the timing is at 20º BTDC by observing the alignment timing marks on the flywheel.

NOTE: If the ignition timing is set right and the engine kicks back when trying to start, sometimes, but not always, the compression release isn't relieving enough compression from the combustion chamber. When this happens, try setting the valve clearances to specs and see if that makes a difference. If the timing is retarded at all times with no automatic advance just to reduce the possibility of "kickback" upon startup, then it will run sluggish and not produce enough power. [Return to previous paragraph, section or website]

Another simple way to set the ignition timing is to use a dial indicator to measure the distance of the piston from the top of the block. On the K241 (10hp) Kohler engines, the ignition points just begin to open when the piston is located exactly at .125" BTDC. And on the K301 (12hp), K321 (14hp), K341 (16hp) flathead engines and K361 (18hp OHV) engines, the ignition points just begin to open when the piston is located exactly at .100" BTDC. Distances shown is when the S mark on the flywheel is aligned with the mark on the bearing plate. Take into consideration if the piston doesn't come flush with the top of the block, or if it protrudes out of the cylinder. EXCEPTION: When setting the ignition timing on an older Kohler engine with the old style two-piece camshaft, set the ignition points so they just begin to open with the piston positioned on the compression stroke at 0º TDC (T mark on the flywheel). As soon as the engine starts, the ignition points lobe rotates on the cam pin and flyweights on the cam gear automatically advances the timing to 20º BTDC. Don't set the initial timing at 20º BTDC (S mark) with the old style two-piece camshaft. Due to the absence of an automatic compression release (these engines start under full compression), setting it at 20º BTDC will advance the timing too much and cause the engine to "kickback" when attempting to start the engine. "Kickback" occurs when the crankshaft/flywheel suddenly and quickly momentarily rotates in the opposite direction, which is could bend or break the starter armature shaft or break the aluminum starter housing. To start any engine with advanced timing and under full compression, two separate switches will need to be used. A push-button switch to crank the engine, and an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or [security] key switch to power the ignition. To make this work, first crank the engine over, and while it's cranking over, choke the carburetor (or use A-1 Miller's remote fuel primer system, which is much easier to use), then flip the ignition switch to "put the spark to it." The engine should start easily every time. This method works because the continuing spinning centrifugal force of the flywheel prevents the engine from "kicking back" when power is being supplied to the ignition.

How To Read A Dial Indicator -

Each mark on the face of a dial indicator represents one thousand of an inch (.001") graduations. The marks with a number (10, 20, 30, etc.) represents every ten thousands (.010"). Depending on the size of the engine, for a reading of .050" or .070" BTDC, first, run the piston up at true TDC, then set the dial indicator at the .050" or .070" mark. Then, slowly rotate the crankshaft in opposite of normal engine rotation until the needle reads 0 degrees BTDC. The needle will move in the counterclockwise direction (back to the 0 degree mark) as the piston moves downward in the cylinder.

Where is the Timing Sight Hole in the Flywheel Shroud?

On the small [8"] flywheel without the starter ring gear and with the starter/generator, the timing sight hole is on the right when facing the front of the flywheel, or on the same side as the starter/generator. But on the large [9-1/2"] flywheel with the starter ring gear and gear starter, the timing sight hole is on the left when facing the front of the flywheel, or on the same side of the carburetor.

To set the ignition timing on the 7hp and 8hp Kohler engines, there's a sight hole in the backside of the bearing plate on the starter/generator side, just behind the flywheel. It has a metal hole cover plug in it. Remove the plug, then slowly rotate the flywheel by hand until you see the S mark. Place a white paint mark on the line. Now connect an automotive strobe timing light, start the engine and note if the mark appears midway in the sight hole. If not, adjust the ignition points until the mark is centered in the hole. This is how you set the ignition timing with a timing light. The timing light connects to the battery and spark plug wire.

It is recommended that a steel flywheel be degreed in on an engine to locate true TDC. Mark the flywheel every 5 degrees out up to 35 degrees BTDC. NOTE: With a steel cam and ground-on point lobe, do not correlate ignition points gap with engine timing – there is a range from approximately 10 degrees BTDC to 40 degrees BTDC! Use a continuity tester to set ignition points to the desired ignition timing by setting the points gap at a specific width.

The initial ignition timing must be properly set and be able to automatically advance (if this feature is on the engine) when the engine starts for the engine to produce full power. The initial timing is set according to when the piston reaches its Before Top Dead Center (BTDC) position in the cylinder on the compression stroke. When measuring the piston distance, take in consideration if a piston protrudes out of the cylinder or if it doesn't come flush with the top of the block. And don't trust strange markings on the flywheel.

Simple Ways to Find Top Dead Center (TDC) of the Piston - (Added 5/7/21)

When the keyways on each end of the crankshaft are positioned straight up with the cylinder, this is when the piston is at 0º TDC. One way to find TDC is with a straight edge tool placed across and centered on the keyway of the crankshaft PTO end. When it's perpendicular with the engine, this is when the piston is at TDC. Another way to find TDC is to "feel" when the piston is at TDC by rocking the flywheel back and forth slowly and gently by hand. Vise Grips lightly clamped on the crankshaft PTO end can be used instead. You will feel the "free play" of the oil clearance in the main bearings and rod to crank journal when the piston is moved just before and after top dead center. When the piston is positioned halfway between the "free play", it is at TDC.

Use the Correct Tools to Precisely Set the Ignition Timing - Find TRUE Top Dead Center (0º TDC) on an engine with an OEM, billet steel flywheel or billet starter pulley with no timing marks to accurately set the ignition (or cam) timing. Tools needed are mentioned below. To make this happen... FYI - These tools are also used to degree in a high performance camshaft in an automotive or competition pulling Kohler engine with an adjustable cam gear.

Degree Wheel The degree wheel is a round disc (usually made of aluminum) with the facing edge marked off in degrees, similar to the markings on a protractor. It's actually two 180º protractors put together to form a 360º circle. When used in conjunction with a dial indicator, it's installed on the crankshaft during the engine build to degree the cam in and check for correct valve timing events. It can also be used to check for accurate ignition timing. When in use, a degree wheel is fastened to the front of the crankshaft (automotive engines) or flywheel end (small engines). If it's fastened to the PTO end, it will need to face the engine block and be read from that position.

Dial Indicator and Magnetic Base dial indicator is necessary to check for correct valve timing to tell precisely when a valve starts to open and the moment it closes. This opening and closing is very critical for high performance engines and cannot be done by feel or by sight. A dial indicator can also be used to set accurate ignition timing in relation to piston travel. Each mark on the face of a dial indicator represents one thousandth of an inch (.001") graduations. The marks with a number (10, 20, 30, etc.) represents every ten thousandths of an inch (.010", .020", .030", etc.). A dial indicator always mounts on top of the engine block with a sturdy bolt-on bracket or a magnetic base. Dial indicators are very precision and delicate instruments. Care must be used in handling one.

Piston Stop Tool A piston stop tool is used to accurately find the piston's true Top Dead Center (TDC) in the engine block. The piston stop tool is always used on the #1 piston, which is closest to the flywheel on a multi-cylinder air-cooled engine, and closest to the front of an automotive engine. As far as I am aware of, a deck-mounted, flat bar piston stop cannot be purchased from any source. One will need to be made from scratch. To use a very simple piston stop for a flathead engine, if the spark plug is perpendicular (at a 90º angle) with the head, a long-reach (long threaded) spark plug can be used in the head to serve as the bump-stop. Adjustment of the spark plug is used to "stop" the piston. Simply position and fasten the head on the block with a couple of bolts with the plug over the piston. The spark plug can be adjusted up or down to find true top dead center of the piston in relationship with the degree wheel. A blunt-end (not to damage the piston) steel rod may need to be welded on the end of the plug for an extended reach. If a piston pops out of the cylinder at TDC, then install flat washers as needed so the head will clear the piston at TDC. On a flathead engine, to serve as a simple piston stop, a long-reach (long threaded) spark plug can be used, and the cylinder head must be positioned over the piston. Or for a universal deck-mounted, flat bar type of piston stop, the bar should be made of minimum 1/4" thick x 1" wide flat steel or aluminum, drilled with a couple of holes so that it can be fastened to the top of the block with a couple of head bolts, directly over the piston. A minimum 1/4" bolt with a thin jam nut, is threaded in the bar to serve as the bump-stop. Adjustment of the bolt is used to "stop" the piston. If a piston pops out of the cylinder at TDC, then install flat washers as needed so the bar will clear the piston at TDC. To check and adjust the ignition (or cam) timing on an Over Head Valve (OHV) engine with the cylinder head installed on the engine block, a low-cost and simple bump-type piston stop tool can be made from a 14mm spark plug non-fouler. (Spark plug non-foulers are used in automotive engines that burn/consume a lot of oil to help prevent oil-fouling of the spark plug(s).) To convert a spark plug non-fouler into a bump-stop for a piston stop... Acquire a 3/8-24 UNF full-length threaded rod (All-Thread) of the appropriate length depending on depth of combustion chamber and depression in piston. Drill through the non-fouler with a 21/64" drill bit. Cut threads through the non-fouler with a 3/8-24 UNF tap. Weld a "T" handle on the end of the threaded rod to rotate it up and down in the non-fouler. Place a thin jam nut and flat washer on the threaded rod, insert the threaded rod through the non-fouler to serve as the bump-stop. To use, the non-fouler will need to be tightened in the head, then the bolt can be adjusted for piston travel in relationship with the degree wheel. [Return to previous paragraph, section or website]

With an aftermarket steel flywheel or a stock flywheel with no timing marks, the most accurate way to set the ignition timing [on virtually any engine] is performed by measuring the distance of the piston before it reaches top dead center with a dial indicator in conjunction with a degree wheel fastened to the crankshaft flywheel end. To learn more, read on....

1. Connect the continuity tester (Ohmmeter or self-powered test light) as described above È.
2. Remove the cylinder head from the engine.
3. Fashion a rigid pointer from stiff wire or an old coat hanger and attach it to the engine block. This pointer locates the degrees on the degree wheel.
4. With a degree wheel installed on the flywheel or PTO end of the crankshaft, and with the flywheel fastened onto the crankshaft, rotate the crankshaft by hand in normal running rotation until the piston at the very top of the cylinder with both valves fully closed (this is the Top Dead Center position on the compression stroke), and adjust the pointer to zero (0º TDC) on the degree wheel.
5. Now turn the crankshaft opposite the running rotation approximately 15-20 degrees. Install the piston stop on the top of the engine block fastened in place by two head bolts. NOTE: If a piston protrudes out of the cylinder at TDC, then to use the piston stop, you'll need to install several flat washers or a spacer between the piston stop and engine block so the piston will clear it and go past the TDC mark.
6. Continue to turn the engine in the same direction until the piston comes back up and just touches the piston stop. Make a note of the exact number on the degree wheel that the pointer is on.
7. Rotate the engine in the other direction (running rotation) until the piston comes back up and touches the piston stop. Again note the number where the pointer is.
8. Remove the piston stop and rotate the crankshaft to the midpoint of the two marks. At this point the piston is at the true top dead center. Loosen the degree wheel and adjust it so it will read 0º TDC at the pointer. Don't rotate the crankshaft to do this!
9. Slowly rotate the engine in reverse normal rotation. The test light should be on. If not, adjust the ignition points so it is on.
10. Rotate the crankshaft by hand in its normal direction until the degree wheel is where you want the timing to be set at (20º), then adjust the ignition points so they just begin to open. The self-powered test light should've gone off or flickered by now. If not, set the ignition points so they just start to open and the light flickers. Once the degree wheel is in the proper position, the breaker points should just begin to open. Or, when using crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger ignition, check or set the initial timing by positioning the center of the magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor with the center of the detectable target, rather if it's a small magnet, screw, pin, projection (hump) or large bolt head on the edge of a flywheel or on a rotating disc. It is at this moment when spark occurs. And it's at this point that the ignition timing is set correctly. Mark the flywheel or front pulley where the timing marks are on the degree wheel for setting the timing with an automotive inductive strobe timing light in the future. The timing light connects to the battery and spark plug wire.

Magnetic pickup coils and proximity sensors are very sensitive to mechanical damage (and electrical damage if connected wrong). For magnetic pickup coils, set the air gap/clearance from the detectable target (screw, pin or small raised area on the rotating disc) at .010"-.060" with a brass, plastic, business card, poster board, stainless steel (anything non-magnetic) feeler gauge. And being 3-wire inductive proximity sensors have a farther detection range, set the air gap/clearance at .010"-.188". If the gap is wider than .188" (3/16") with either sensor, the ignition system may not produce a spark or the engine could misfire at higher RPM. To prevent the possibility of an out of time spark occurrence, the detectable target needs to be a minimum of 3/16" higher than or above the circumference surface of a steel or cast iron rotating disc or flywheel. Direct metal contact with either sensor could damage them. When in doubt if a sensor is mechanically damaged, look at the end of it with the strong magnifying glass to see any damage. If it is damaged, it needs to be replaced. A magnetic pickup coil can be tested with a digital multimeter set on 200m DC, with the negative lead of the meter on the white wire of the pickup coil and positive lead on the black wire, then pass a small steel screw or bolt over the end of the magnetic pickup coil. If the meter shows a reading, the pickup coil is in good condition.

How 3-Wire Proximity Sensors Work -

The 3-wire inductive and hall effect proximity sensors requires external electrical power and function with three wires: BROWN [power (+)], BLUE [power (–)] and BLACK [signal]. The body of metal case proximity sensors do not need to be grounded to the battery negative (–) post. Proximity Sensors are like a small generator and a switch in one unit. They come in two functions:

There's the NPN proximity sensor, which stands for Negative-Positive-Negative. "Negative" is when the sensor is turned off when it's NOT in close proximity of the target. This is when there's no activation or no spark occurs. And "Positive" is when the sensor is turned on or the electrical connection is made when the sensor is in close proximity of the target. This is when activation is made or the spark occurs. These type of sensors are known as Normally Open (NO). Normally Open is the same as when a mechanical switch is turned off or when no electrical connection is made, and no power is supplied to the electronic ignition control module/unit (ICU).

And there's the PNP proximity sensor, which stands for Positive-Negative-Positive. This works opposite than the sensor above. Again, "Positive" is when the sensor is turned on or the electrical connection is made when in close proximity of the target. This is when activation is made or the spark occurs. And "Negative" is when the sensor is turned off when it's NOT in close proximity of the target. This is when there's no activation or no spark occurs. These type of sensors are known as Normally Closed (NC). Normally Closed is the same as when a mechanical switch is turned on or when electrical connection is made, and power is supplied to the electronic ignition control module/unit (ICU). Go here to learn more: Proximity Sensor - Google Search | Proximity Sensor - YouTube | Testing NPN and PNP Proximity Sensors - YouTube.

A Normally Open proximity sensor produce electrical current to the ignition control module only when it comes in close proximity of a detectable ferrous metal (steel or cast iron) object, then the circuit is closed (LED sensor comes on). Proximity Sensors can only generate electricity when they come in close proximity of a small or narrow detectable iron-based ferrous metal object that a magnet can stick to. A special type of proximity sensor is required to work with non-magnetic metals, such as: aluminum, brass, copper, stainless steel, titanium, etc. Metal detectors, the kind that treasure hunters use, have the special type of proximity sensor.

Normally Open proximity sensors are used mainly for flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition systems on gas engines. 3-wire inductive proximity sensors also work somewhat like metal detectors; if the metal comes close enough to the sensor, with a Normally Open proximity sensor, the alarm will sound. But a Normally Closed sensor works opposite.

How Inductive and Hall Effect Proximity Sensors Work -

The "inductive" proximity sensors can detect ferrous steel or iron-based metal objects or a magnet, being all magnets have iron in them. They will not work with non-magnetic metals, such as: aluminum, brass, stainless steel, titanium, etc. But the "hall effect" proximity sensors can only detect the presence of a magnetized metal object, such as the head of a steel screw fastened to a magnet on a disc or flywheel. Proximity sensors produce electrical current within and send it to the control module when external power is supplied to it (LED sensor goes off) except when it comes in close proximity of a detectable ferrous metal object, then the circuit is opened (LED sensor comes on). Certain proximity sensors have an LED (Light Emitting Diode) on the unit. If the proximity sensor is wired incorrectly, the LED will stay on and go off when activated. Proximity sensors are used mainly in places where security is needed. They can be used for exterior windows or doors in a secured building. When a window or door with a detectable ferrous metal object is moved away from the sensor, the circuit will be closed and an alarm will sound and/or lights will come on. Also, when a Normally Open proximity sensor is used with flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition, the wider the gap in the rotating disc, the longer the duration of the spark, which makes for a more thorough burning of the fuel. It's almost impossible to tell the difference between a Normally Open and Normally Closed sensor just by looking at them because they appear to be identical. If a 3-wire inductive proximity sensor has no markings or indications to show that it's a Normally Open (N/O) and Normally Closed (N/C), a 100% sure way to determine the type, is read the label on the sensor (may need to use a strong magnifying glass), or test it with the wires connected in a circuit as shown in the drawings further down in this website. Ê Click here for more information: Proximity Sensor - YouTube.

How Magnetic and Non-Magnetic Pickup Coils Work -

A magnetic pickup coil works like a Normally Open proximity sensor. Magnetic pickup coils have two wires, are self-generating and require no external power. They can only generate electricity when they come in close proximity of a small or narrow detectable iron-based ferrous metal object that a magnet can stick to. They will not work with non-magnetic metals, such as: aluminum, brass, copper, stainless steel, titanium, etc. And a non-magnetic pickup coil also have two wires, are self-generating and require no external power. They can only generate electricity when it comes in close proximity of a small or narrow detectable magnet or magnetized metal object, such as the head of a ferrous metal steel screw fastening a magnet to the edge of a disc or flywheel. Click here for more information: Magnetic Pickup Coil - YouTube.

The hall effect sensor with a target magnet should be used with a rotating steel disc or cast iron flywheel that have an uneven outer surface with high spots. But when an inductive sensor is used with a non-magnetic steel target screw on a rotating steel disc or cast iron flywheel that have an uneven outer surface with high spots, this could trigger false spark(s) or send false signal(s) to the control module, which could produce an out-of-time spark or sequence. A hall effect sensor with a magnet will not allow this to happen.

Magnetic pickup coils and proximity sensors are very sensitive to mechanical damage (and electrical damage if connected wrong). For magnetic pickup coils, set the air gap/clearance from the detectable target (screw, pin or small raised area on the rotating disc) at .010"-.060" with a brass, plastic, business card, poster board, stainless steel (anything non-magnetic) feeler gauge. And being 3-wire inductive proximity sensors have a farther detection range, set the air gap/clearance at .010"-.188". If the gap is wider than .188" (3/16") with either sensor, the ignition system may not produce a spark or the engine could misfire at higher RPM. To prevent the possibility of an out of time spark occurrence, the detectable target needs to be a minimum of 3/16" higher than or above the circumference surface of a steel or cast iron rotating disc or flywheel. Direct metal contact with either sensor could damage them. When in doubt if a sensor is mechanically damaged, look at the end of it with the strong magnifying glass to see any damage. If it is damaged, it needs to be replaced. A magnetic pickup coil can be tested with a digital multimeter set on 200m DC, with the negative lead of the meter on the white wire of the pickup coil and positive lead on the black wire, then pass a small steel screw or bolt over the end of the magnetic pickup coil. If the meter shows a reading, the pickup coil is in good condition.

How to Fix the Problem with a Severely Worn Ignition Points Lobe on a Kohler Camshaft or Breaker Cam - [Return to previous paragraph, section or website]

Sometimes the ignition points lobe on the camshaft in a single cylinder Kohler engine or the breaker cam (points lobe) in the governor assembly on Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582 will become worn or have a groove wore in it so severe/deep that the ignition timing can't be advanced to the factory setting of 20º BTDC so the engine will produce full power. But there's a way to fix this, and there's no need to purchase another camshaft or do welding on the points lobe. Simply install an A-1 Miller's custom-made flared-end stainless steel points pushrod, or thread a stainless steel nut on the end of an OEM Kohler points pushrod. A stainless steel nut is very hard, yet slicker than a plain steel nut, which will allow it to slide against the points lobe with less friction, lessening wear to the unworn areas of the lobe. This will allow the ignition timing to be fully advanced to 20º BTDC as if the lobe isn't worn at all. The A-1 Miller's flared-end stainless steel points pushrod or "stainless steel nut on the pushrod" can also be used for an unworn points lobe for longer wear of the lobe. To fix the problem with a severely worn points lobe...

1. Completely disassemble the engine and remove everything from inside the crankcase, except for the governor gear and shaft. I realize this is a lot of work just to replace one small part, but it must be done in this way.
2. Acquire a stainless steel 10-24 UNC or 10-32 UNF (thread size) x 3/8" (wrench size) hex nut.
3. Cut very short threads perpendicular on one end of the pushrod so the nut will not be crooked on the rod. For accuracy, this is best performed in a small metal lathe with a tailstock die holder. And to maintain correct pushrod length, cut the length of the threads the same thickness of the nut.
4. Install the nut on the ignition points pushrod. The nut is threaded onto the pushrod and jammed where the threads end. And if you're concerned about the nut coming off the pushrod while in use, well, it'll be impossible for it to come off because for one thing, the nut will be jammed tight against the short threads on the pushrod and it'll be held against the ignition points lobe. But if preferred, use high strength liquid threadlocker (Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent) to secure the nut on the rod. FYI - Store a container of liquid threadlocker or Super Glue upright and not laying flat. The capped tip will not dry out and clog when stored upright.
   The minimum length of Kohler engine models K90/K91, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, K482, K532 and K582 ignition points pushrod is 1.500" and maximum length is 1.550" (new). If you're using a stock Kohler camshaft, then the OEM points pushrod should be long enough. And the minimum length of Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181, KV161, L160/L161 and L181 ignition points pushrod is 1.260" and maximum length is 1.265" (new). As long as the pushrod is anywhere between these two measurements, the ignition points should adjust, open and close, and work just fine. But if either pushrod is too short, the ignition points contacts won't open enough or at all, and the rod will need to be replaced with a longer one. And if either pushrod is too long, the ignition points' contacts won't touch and the rod will need to be shortened. So measure accurately before (re)installing. Personally, I've seen some poorly-designed custom-made aluminum mounting brackets for Chevy points on competition pulling engines that have one or both of the points mounting holes drilled and tapped too far away from the engine block, making the OEM-length points pushrod too short, thus, making adjustment of the points gap and activation of the points impossible. When this happens, I drill and tap new points mounting hole(s) in the bracket closer to the engine block.
5. On the K141, K160/K161, K181, KV161, L160/L161 and L181 engines, due to clearance in the block, the nut will need to be reduced in diameter (in a small metal lathe), and the inside of the block will need to be ground away slightly for additional clearance of the nut.
6. Remember the pushrod must be inserted from inside the block before the camshaft (and everything else) is reinstalled!

If doing the above È doesn't help to advance the timing quite far enough (for gas and especially methanol fuel), grinding (and polishing) of the lobe may need to be done. Grind about .050" deep in the surface just before the lobe (see drawing to the right ->) and about 1/2" from the lobe to right next to the lobe, but not on the lobe itself! A die grinder with a porting stone works excellent for doing this. After doing this, the timing can then be advanced as far as 50º BTDC! The alternative to using the flared-end points pushrods is to install a custom-made flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition system.

When advancing the ignition timing past 24º± BTDC, and if the camshaft has an automatic compression release, it will need to be removed because the spark will occur when the exhaust valve opens slightly to relieve some of the compression, preventing the engine from starting. And to make the engine easier to crank over under full compression, a high torque starter motor with separate starter and ignition switches to prevent "kickback" will need to be used. "Kickback" occurs when the crankshaft/flywheel suddenly and violently rebounds or rotates in the opposite direction, which is could bend or break the starter armature shaft or break the aluminum starter housing. To start any engine with advanced timing and under full compression, two separate switches will need to be used. A push-button switch to crank the engine, and an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or [security] key switch to power the ignition. To make this work, first crank the engine over, and while it's cranking over, choke the carburetor (or use A-1 Miller's remote fuel primer system, which is much easier to use), then flip the ignition switch to "put the spark to it." The engine should start easily every time. This method works because the continuing spinning centrifugal force of the flywheel prevents the engine from "kicking back" when power is being supplied to the ignition.

To install the flared-end points pushrod in Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582, first of all, the governor assembly unit is located on top of the engine. Remove the points cover and points, disconnect the linkage and remove the two mounting bolts; disassemble the unit; install the flared-end points pushrod from inside the unit; reassembly the unit; and when reinstalling the unit, it MUST be timed by following the instructions below; reinstall the points and set the gap at .020"; and the ignition timing will also need to be precisely set by following the instructions below.

To keep crankcase oil from contaminating the ignition points on a Kohler engine is to install a new [stainless steel] ignition points pushrod and/or if the hole in the block is slightly worn, install a 3/16" I.D. neoprene rubber O-ring over the ignition points pushrod. Place the O-ring on the outside [of the block] and close to the engine block. The oil will travel out to the O-ring and drip off, staying off the ignition points. But if the ignition points pushrod hole is excessively worn, this will effect the ignition timing as well, and the block will need to be machined for installation of a bronze sleeve bushing, or the hole can be plugged, and solid state or a custom-made flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition system can be installed. (The translucent silicone rubber diaphragm seal (part # 220074-S) is no longer available from Kohler.)

Ignition System Options - [Top of Page]

If a Kohler K-series engine originally came with ignition points and condenser/capacitor ignition, and you're looking for a more reliable and maintenance-free ignition system, well, you have these options...

• If the engine has self-energizing magneto ignition, do away with the ignition points and condenser/capacitor (plug the points pushrod hole), and install a Universal Solid State Electronic Ignition Module.
• If the engine has battery-powered ignition with ignition points and condenser/capacitor, install an ignition coil with a 3.0 Ohm internal primary resistor connected to a minimum 1.6 Ohm ballast resistor. The ignition points contacts should then last the life of the engine.
• Install the ignition and related components off of a Magnum engine. The parts needed are: Magnum bearing plate, starter motor, flywheel w/fins, flywheel shroud and solid state electronic ignition coil/module (the Magnum ignition system is very similar to Briggs & Stratton's Magnetron™ ignition). If the engine has battery ignition, a different ignition switch will be required, one that's for magneto/solid state electronic ignition because the Magnum ignition coil needs to be grounded to kill the spark and shut off the engine, and is not powered by the battery/electrical system.
• Install the flywheel-trigger electronic ignition setup as described in this website. Install a small "bump", a detectable target (steel screw, pin, or multiple pins for a multi-cylinder engine), 1/4" in diameter on the edge of the flywheel to trigger the ignition. On a K-series flywheel, the bump or pin is for detection of the sensor, will need to be a 3/8" (wrench size) x 3/16" thread diameter steel hex head bolt (screw), and must be set at 20º BTDC for correct ignition timing (for gas). To prevent the possibility of an out of time spark, the detectable target needs to be a minimum of 3/16" higher than or above the circumference surface of a steel or cast iron rotating disc or flywheel. Use the two mounting hole bosses that's at the 10:00 position in the bearing plate (originally for mounting of Kohler's Breakerless Trigger unit) to fasten a fabricated steel bracket to mount the sensor. You'll also need a battery-type electrical system to power this type of ignition.

Custom-Made Reliable and Maintenance-Free, Electronic Ignition Systems That Operate Off the Flywheel End of a Lawn & Garden Small Engine - Eliminates Points and Condenser

Get That Old, Antique Small Engine Running Again with 21st Century Technology Using 100% Reliable Digital Electronic Ignition, Even When New Placement Parts Are Obsolete or Cost-Prohibited! Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. [Return to previous paragraph, section or website] [Top of Page]

This is the era of modern wonders, where everything is electronic, transistorized, digitized and miniaturized. Yet even today, many competition garden pulling tractors with an older engine still use the old-fashioned breaker point ignition systems. For other people, the frustration of attempting to keep a breaker point-fired tractor in peak running condition has been enough of a reason to join the electronic/solid state electronic ignition era. Breaker point systems do have some positives, though. ignition points are cheap and somewhat easy to install. And many people are comfortable with installing their own ignition points. The bad side of using ignition points is, besides the ignition points contacts burning, pitting and wearing out, if or when the ignition points lobe on the (Kohler) camshaft and/or the ignition points pushrod become worn, this will narrow the gap on the ignition points, and retard the ignition timing. The ignition points lobe can wear so much that resetting the ignition points at the factory setting of .020" or setting the ignition timing at 20º BTDC becomes impossible. As the point gap gets too narrow, the ignition timing will become retarded (less than the factory setting of 20º BTDC), which will cause the engine to run sluggish and lose power, and when it gets too wide, the timing will become too advanced (more than the factory setting of 20º BTDC), which will cause the engine to run hotter than normal, which could cause premature engine wear and oil burning, eventually resulting in an engine rebuild. There's also less chance of a dangerous fire due to non-existence of ignition points.

Self-energizing small engine magneto armature ignition coils and battery-powered coils with either points and condenser or electronic ignition must be used with a metal core conductor spark plug wire and a copper core/non-resistor spark plug. Most automobiles with electronic ignition have suppression/carbon core spark plug wires only to prevent interference of sensitive electronic components and [AM/FM] radio static. However, if a suppression/carbon core spark plug wire and/or a resistor type spark plug is used with a magneto or battery-powered ignition coil, the coil may operate at a much higher than normal temperature (too hot to the touch), and either the coil will fail or the engine will idle well, but hesitate to rev up at high RPM due to the high resistance in the suppression/carbon core spark plug wire and/or a resistor type spark plug. And avoid using a suppression/carbon core spark plug wire with an electronic ignition system on a small engine! The reason being is if the suppression/carbon core spark plug wire becomes extremely weak and deteriorated with very high resistance, this can cause the ignition coil and possibly the electronic ignition control module to burn up.

With all of my Universal Solid State Electronic Ignition Module, and flywheel-trigger ignition systems (all listed below), when installed accordingly, the ignition timing is ALWAYS advanced. If it's set or installed retarded, it will NOT automatically advance as soon as the engine starts. If the timing is set retarded, the only way to advance it is by rotating an ignition plate or ignition distributor manually by hand, or automatically by a vacuum canister with intake manifold, or by centrifugal force with flyweights.

When the timing is retarded, the engine may start with no problems, but not idle or rev up too well, and it'll lack sufficient power. Also, with retarded timing, all of the fuel in the combustion chamber will not be burned. Part of the raw fuel will exit out of the exhaust, while the rest will remain in the chamber combustion and cling to the cylinder wall, causing the crankcase lubricating oil to become diluted or thin-out. When this happens, "cylinder wash down" will result. Cylinder wash down is when the gas (or diesel fuel) dilutes the light coating of oil on the cylinder wall, and the piston rings will no longer be adequately lubricated, causing direct metal to metal contact, which will cause them to wear excessively, and cause the cylinder wall have a protruding ridge towards the top, resulting in a smoky, oil burning engine overtime. Cylinder wash down can also happen to a diesel engine when the fuel injectors are purposely "turned up" to increase the fuel delivery so the engine will produce more power. This will cause a lot of black smoke be blown out the exhaust all the time (at idle and especially upon acceleration), which will result in shorter engine life, and eventually, gray exhaust smoke (crankcase oil ash) will be mixed with the black exhaust smoke (partially burned diesel fuel ash). It'll run good for a while!

But when the ignition timing is too advanced, this will cause the engine to run hotter than normal, which will likely cause the piston to swell more than usual, allowing it to make metal to metal contact against the cylinder wall, causing excessive wear and friction. And the rings will lose their expansion against the cylinder wall as well. Eventually, due to the lose-fitting piston in the cylinder, the engine (piston) will make a rattling sound and start smoking out the exhaust, and it will ultimately need to be rebuilt.

Flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition delivers twice the voltage and twice the duration of spark to the spark plugs, increasing engine performance and spark plug life. No ignition points to burn, no moving parts to wear out. Epoxy molding of the ignition components makes them impervious to dirt, oil, grease and moisture. Stable timing, no need for adjustment - ever! If installed correctly, crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger stabilizes the ignition timing and will always have a strong spark with the use of microelectronics, so you won't ever have to worry about it. There'll be less of a chance of spark plug fouling, and the fuel will be burned more thoroughly. The engine will produce more power and you will have more confidence that the engine will last longer. So for the utmost precision ignition timing and maintenance-free convenience, flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition is the way to go! It will allow the engine to idle smoother, rev up with no hesitation and run better, and produce more power at open RPM (wide open throttle).

Tired of changing or constantly adjusting the ignition points? Convert to the 100% digitized flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition! For improved performance, easier starting, and less moving parts to leave your tractor dead on the track. Shock and moisture resistant, and all it takes is a few simple hand tools to install. In my opinion, getting rid of the ignition points and condenser/capacitor has been the best advance ever in engine technology.

Virtually Any Gas Engine Can Be Converted To the Flywheel- or Crank-Trigger Electronic Ignition!

A-1 Miller's custom-made flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition kits will work with virtually any 2- or 4-cycle engine, as long as the magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor, or the DynaTek Dyna S or PerTronix Ignitor modules can be mounted securely, and there's a trigger rotor or disc of some kind, that can also be secured in place.

If an engine is connected to a battery (and if it has a charging system to keep the battery fully charged for prolong use), and if there's room on the PTO end of the crankshaft for the ignition disc, and a place to mount the bracket for the magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor, then the engine can be converted to flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition. And the ignition disc doesn't have to be made of aluminum. If there's a steel hub mounted on the end of the crankshaft, it could be used to trigger the ignition. As long as the head(s) of the detectable target, rather if it's a small magnet, screw, pin, projection (hump) or large bolt head on the edge of a flywheel or on a rotating disc, is/are higher than the outer edge of the [steel] hub (signal detection), the magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor will detect it/them. [Return to previous paragraph, section or website]

Kohler's Breakerless Ignition System -

Kohler Breakerless Ignition (and Tecumseh Cast Iron Block Engine Solid State Ignition) are a 100% digital system and requires no mechanical or physical contact to activate any moving parts. It operates basically on the same general principle as crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger ignition. A trigger module containing solid state electronics performs the same function as the breaker points. Because there are no breaker points in this system, there are no requirements for ignition timing. The Module Sensor, as part of the Breakerless Ignition system, is energized by two windings on the charging stator under the flywheel. Breakerless Ignition is pretty much maintenance-free, with very few parts to wear out or become defective. But when it does fail, OEM replacement parts are no longer available from any source. Apparently, there's a good reason why Kohler stopped installing Breakerless Ignition after a short time. Kohler's Breakerless Ignition and Tecumseh's Solid State Ignition systems are their version of my custom-made flywheel-trigger electronic ignition systems as described further down in this website. A-1 Miller's crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger ignition kits can replace a defective Breakerless Ignition and Tecumseh's Solid State ignition systems. IMPORTANT - The wire that comes from the stator under the flywheel to energize the Kohler Trigger Module or Tecumseh Solid State Ignition Module generates about 250 volts while the engine is running at full governed speed (serious). Do not touch this wire (terminal) with one bare hand and the engine with your other hand while the engine is running! This wire is not needed for any of A-1 Miller's flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition systems. So snip off this wire or tape up the terminal to prevent a short circuit or electrocution.

Kohler engines with Breakerless Ignition are rare. In fact, out of the 1,000's of Kohler engines that were manufactured, only 92 of these originally came with Breakerless Ignition. Most originally came with points and condenser ignition because it's more reliable and produces a stronger spark. The Breakerless Ignition System was used on various Kohler engine models K181, K241, K301 and K321. The models and specification numbers of Kohler engines that originally came with Breakerless Ignition are as follows: K181-30296, 30518, 30519, 30529, 30666; K241-46513, 46536, 46566, 46578, 46591, 46613, 46614, 46615, 46624, 46634, 46640, 46651; K301-47145, 47147, 47204, 47232, 47249, 47252, 47255, 47275, 47277, 47278, 47284, 47289, 47295, 47303, 47304, 47305, 47313, 47314, 47335, 47336, 47339, 47340, 47346, 47350, 47362, 47363, 47365, 47367, 47371, 47374, 47375, 47378, 47387, 47389, 47391, 4739, 47400, 47402, 47403, 47407, 47410, 47420, 47422, 47423, 47424, 47814; K321-6006, 6008, 60105, 60121, 60124, 60125, 6013, 60131, 60132, 60133, 60176, 60187, 60189, 60201, 60213, 60239, 60275, 6051, 6053, 6055, 6058, 6071, 6079, 6081, 6088, 6093. All K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K341 and K361 engines came with points and condenser ignition.

The Trigger Module (the part that's fastened to the bearing plate and extends over the ring gear, and is triggered by the projection (hump) or large bolt head on the edge of the flywheel) is part of the Breakerless Ignition System. To test the Breakerless Ignition Coil and Trigger Module, refer to Kohler K-series Single Cylinder Engine Service Manual TP-2379 or Kohler Breakerless Ignition Service Bulletin. If the Breakerless Ignition fails to produce a spark, the Coil and Trigger Module have been discontinued by Kohler. And if you're looking for an alternative and reliable replacement ignition system to get your engine running again, well, you have the three options below...

• Convert the engine to battery-powered ignition with points and condenser/capacitor. Install a points pushrod, ignition points/gasket/cover with necessary screws, condenser/capacitor, ignition coil, necessary wiring/connectors, and a battery ignition key starter/ignition switch, or a momentary push button starter switch. (to crank the engine) and an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition). The same spark plug type can be used, except set the gap at .035".
• Convert the engine to A-1 Miller's battery-powered flywheel-trigger electronic ignition kit as described further down in this website.
• Convert the engine to a Kohler Magnum with solid state ignition.

Stable ignition timing is a necessity in high performance engines. In most cases, a ignition points ignition will do just fine, but when you start making big time horsepower with extreme cylinder pressures and higher RPM, the timing is critical to both the performance and life of the engine. The ignition must be triggered at a precise time in relation to the position of the piston during the compression stroke. However, the timing can get erratic or fluctuate at open RPM (wide open throttle) with the ignition points system, due to camshaft end play, clearance in both the crank and cam gears and mechanical flexing that takes place through the camshaft support pin, especially when using a high lift cam with very stiff valve springs. In fact, if you ever checked the timing on an engine with camshaft-operated ignition points using an inductive strobe timing light, you may have noticed that the timing mark on the flywheel (or starter pulley on the PTO end) will fluctuate or "move up and down" a few degrees. And it'll fluctuate more as the engine RPM increases. This won't happen with flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition. It totally eliminates spark flutter or fluctuations and erratic timing problems common with point ignitions. With flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition, the "tighter" the main bearings are, the more stable the timing is.

When checking the timing with an inductive strobe timing light on an engine with crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic and main ball bearings, it's best to run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature. The reason for this is the free play in the ball bearings is lessened as the bearings get warm, providing a more stable spark.

The crankshaft knows exactly where the piston is, plus the crankshaft is the most stable component in an engine in relation to piston position. That's why flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition is so important in high-horsepower/open RPM engine applications. With this ignition, you get absolutely stable timing with 1/10th± of a degree of accuracy from 0 to 15,000+ RPM without missing a beat (when using an electronic ignition control module/unit (ICU) with a high capacity transistor). The 1/10th± of a degree is the result of the oil clearance in the main bearings. With a high capacity electronic ignition control module, the flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition system will work flawlessly without missing a hit even if the engine is capable of turning up to 100,000 RPM! Because it works as fast as the speed of electricity, which can be anywhere from about 50% to 99% of the speed of light, depending upon the quality of the electronic components and wiring connections. As long as the crank-trigger ignition system is installed and the timing is set correctly, it'll help a competition pulling tractor scream down the track. Also, with the flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition system, you can set the ignition timing and forget it!

The flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition is when the mechanical breaker points and condenser/capacitor are totally eliminated and replaced by solid state electronic components. Actually, it works on the same principle as the electronic ignition that's used in the older automobiles (before computerized ignition systems). The conventional ignition points ignition system is considered as old-fashioned technology by today's standards. Even the [high dollar] aftermarket adjustable ignition plate that's made for Chevy ignition points is considered old-fashioned by today's standards!

Using ignition points versus flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition is up to you. Personally, I prefer the flywheel-trigger or crank-trigger ignition setup because it's very reliable and virtually maintenance-free. With conventional ignition, the ignition points will ALWAYS go bad or wear out. The contacts on ignition points can get dirty, worn, burnt, oily (oil seepage from the crankcase through the ignition points pushrod hole), out of adjustment, wet (whenever the tractor is washed off or rained upon) or even oxidized (light corrosion). The use of a high-output/performance ignition coil can also shorten the life of ignition points. And the condenser/capacitor can become defective.

At very open RPM, with conventional ignition points and condenser/capacitor ignition, the ignition coil operates at about 80% efficiency. The same is true with high-output/performance ignition coils because they require more power from the battery. But with crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger ignition, using the GM 4-pin HEI, Chrysler (w/ballast resistor) or Ford electronic ignition control module/unit (ICU), any type of coil operates at 100% efficiency at any RPM, which produce a much stronger spark. This is why Chevrolet refers to their 1974-'90 electronic ignition as HEI, meaning High Energy Ignition. The reason there's a stronger spark is because at higher RPM, there's no condenser/capacitor to break down the voltage in the primary circuit in the coil.

When a magnetic pickup coil is used with crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger ignition, the duration of each spark lasts about twice as long than with ignition points and condenser/capacitor ignition. And when a 3-wire inductive proximity sensor is used with crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger ignition, the spark duration is about 4 times longer than with ignition points and condenser/capacitor ignition, because a 3-wire inductive proximity sensor can detect the target, rather if it's a small screw, pin, projection (hump) or large bolt head on the edge of a flywheel or on a rotating disc, at the farther distance than a magnetic pickup coil. A longer spark duration burns the fuel more thoroughly, especially at open RPM, resulting in more power. Although a 3-wire inductive proximity sensor can be used on a stock engine running at around 4,000 RPM with no problems, it's more suited for a high performance engine (than the magnetic pickup coil) due to its longer spark duration. In other words, a stock engine with limited RPM will not benefit from the longer spark duration. Also, the closer the magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor is set to the target, rather if it's a small screw, pin, projection (hump) or large bolt head on the edge of a flywheel or on a rotating disc, the longer the duration will be.

Items Needed and Details on How to Install a Flywheel- or Crank-Trigger Electronic Ignition System (on virtually any gas engine) - [Top of Page]

ü A Universal Magnetic Pickup Coil, Crankshaft Position Sensor, Tach/Speed Sensor or a 3-Wire Inductive (detects iron/steel) Proximity Sensor. Virtually any automotive engine speed sensor or crank position sensor will work for this system. These all work the same. These sensors require no power from the battery or module because they self-generate an AC signal. Be sure to use a magnetic one that produce a small electrical current whenever a small steel (nonmagnetic) object is passed quickly over the end of it. Most magnetic pickup coils generate 2-3 volts. Also, there needs to be a way to mount it on the engine so the air gap/clearance and ignition timing can be set and/or adjusted. A universal magnetic pickup coil is most common for this application. It's an engine speed sensor (Tach Sensor) that threads in the bellhousing of a late model truck with a Diesel engine for activation of the tachometer. A crank position sensor is an automotive unit that threads in the engine block and reads off a cogged wheel mounted on the crankshaft. It's for a flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition system that's on an automobile with a computer-controlled engine that has electronic fuel injection.

The Ford (various 1987-2009 models) ABS wheel speed sensor will work as the magnetic pickup coil with the crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger ignition. And various GM crank position sensors have three or more wires, but use just two wires. (They're nothing more than a magnetic pickup coil.) The third (or other) wire(s) is ground or neutral and really don't need to be used with crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger ignition. When you buy a sensor, test it to see which wires produce the electrical current, then just snip off the (useless) other wire(s). A 3-wire inductive proximity sensor, magnetic pickup coil and crank position sensor can be easily tested by connecting it to an analog or digital multimeter that's set on the lowest AC scale, then quickly pass the head of a small steel bolt or nail back and forth across the end of the sensor. If the analog needle fluctuates slightly or the digital display goes up and down each time the metal object makes a pass, the sensor is in working order. The more voltage a sensor produce, the stronger the spark. Use a small magnet or a telescoping magnetic pickup tool with a small magnet to test a non-magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire hall effect proximity sensor. The stronger the magnet, the more voltage the sensor will produce, resulting in a stronger spark.

Magnetic pickup coils and proximity sensors are very sensitive to mechanical damage (and electrical damage if connected wrong). For magnetic pickup coils, set the air gap/clearance from the detectable target (screw, pin or small raised area on the rotating disc) at .010"-.060" with a brass, plastic, business card, poster board, stainless steel (anything non-magnetic) feeler gauge. And being 3-wire inductive proximity sensors have a farther detection range, set the air gap/clearance at .010"-.188". If the gap is wider than .188" (3/16") with either sensor, the ignition system may not produce a spark or the engine could misfire at open RPM. To prevent the possibility of an out of time spark occurrence, the detectable target needs to be a minimum of 3/16" higher than or above the circumference surface of a steel or cast iron rotating disc or flywheel. Direct metal contact with either sensor could damage them. When in doubt if a sensor is mechanically damaged, look at the end of it with the strong magnifying glass to see any damage. If it is damaged, it needs to be replaced. A magnetic pickup coil can be tested with a digital multimeter set on 200m DC, with the negative lead of the meter on the white wire of the pickup coil and positive lead on the black wire, then pass a small steel screw or bolt over the end of the magnetic pickup coil. If the meter shows a reading, the pickup coil is in good condition.

Engines can't start under full compression and with advanced ignition timing. One or the other must be "suppressed" in order for the engine to crank over without "kicking back" to start. Either it needs to have an automatic compression release to relieve about half the compression, then the compression will return at open upon start up, or the timing needs to be positioned at TDC, then it can automatically advance upon start up.

The only reason any engine would need the ignition timing retarded or a spark advance system is so the engine won't "kickback" when attempting to start it. "Kickback" occurs when the crankshaft/flywheel suddenly and quickly momentarily rotates in the opposite direction, which is could bend or break the starter armature shaft or the aluminum starter housing. Virtually all small gas engines nowadays have a compression relief mechanism on the camshaft (that opens the exhaust valve slightly halfway on the compression stroke), which allow the engine to crank over easily without kicking back. And most pulling engines have a long duration camshaft with the compression relief mechanism (if using a cast cam) and a heavier-than-stock [steel] flywheel. Which will also allow the engine to crank over easily without kicking back when starting. So you see, a spark advance really isn't necessary. To start any engine with advanced timing and under full compression (no automatic compression release), first crank the engine over, and while it's cranking over, choke the carburetor or use A-1 Miller's remote fuel primer system (which is much easier to use), then turn on the toggle/flip switch or [security] key switch to "put the spark to the engine." The engine should start easily every time. The spinning centrifugal force of the flywheel prevents the engine from "kicking back" when power is supplied to the ignition.

Magnetic pickup coils and proximity sensors are very sensitive to mechanical damage (and electrical damage if connected wrong). For magnetic pickup coils, set the air gap/clearance from the detectable target (screw, pin or small raised area on the rotating disc) at .010"-.060" with a brass, plastic, business card, poster board, stainless steel (anything non-magnetic) feeler gauge. And being 3-wire inductive proximity sensors have a farther detection range, set the air gap/clearance at .010"-.188". If the gap is wider than .188" (3/16") with either sensor, the ignition system may not produce a spark or the engine could misfire at open RPM. To prevent the possibility of out of time spark occurrence, the detectable target needs to be a minimum of 3/16" higher than or above the circumference surface of the steel or cast iron rotating disc or flywheel. Direct metal contact with either sensor could damage them. When in doubt if a sensor is mechanically damaged, look at the end of it with the strong magnifying glass to see any damage. If it is damaged, it needs to be replaced. A magnetic pickup coil can be tested with a digital multimeter set on 200m DC, with the negative lead of the meter on the white wire of the pickup coil and positive lead on the black wire, then pass a small steel screw or bolt over the end of the magnetic pickup coil. If the meter shows a reading, the pickup coil is in good condition.

Electronic Ignition Control Module/Unit (ICU) Wiring Connections/Diagrams with a Magnetic Pickup Coil and 3-Wire Proximity Sensor

IMPORTANT: Most failures of a battery-powered ignition coils and/or electronic ignition control modules are caused by either the use of suppression/carbon-core spark plug wire(s), resistor-type spark plug(s), or overcharging of the electrical system due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery. Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging system. Also, any coil will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system. Also, the coil could burn up if the charging system continually overcharge due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or a defective [automotive] battery.

GM 4-pin HEI Electronic Ignition Control Module Wiring Connections/Diagram with the Cube-shape 3-Wire Inductive Proximity Sensor

This electronic ignition system requires 12 volts DC negative ground. This high performance ignition system have been thoroughly tested under extreme conditions, and produces a stable and a very strong spark, even with a stock ignition coil (under most conditions, a high-output/performance coil or the 30,000 volt Bosch blue coil is not needed with this system), allowing the engine to start quickly, idle smoothly and rev up at open RPM with no hesitation or misfire to produce more power. In order for the ordinary/stock GM 4-pin HEI module allow the engine to rev up at open speed, it must be used with a high-output cube-shape 3-wire inductive proximity sensor, and can be used with virtually any ignition coil, regardless of the Ohm resistance or voltage output, and best to use a metal core conductor spark plug wire and non-resister type spark plug gapped at .035". This concept revolutionizes the use of this small, compact and versatile module! This is a thoroughly tested, researched and proven reliable ignition system invented by Brian Miller for ordinary lawn & garden engines and competition pulling engines. The systems below can be used with virtually any ignition coil with a minimum 0.4 Ohm internal resister, and best to use a metal core conductor spark plug wire and non-resister type spark plug gapped at .035" for a strong spark. (This system does NOT have a built-in timing retard.)

• Connect the Black wire on the sensor to the [G] terminal on the module.
• Connect the Blue wire on the sensor to the [W] terminal on the module and to the mounting hole on the module.
• Connect the ignition coil negative (–) terminal to the [C] terminal on the module. For competition pulling - if the grounding-type killswitch is used, connect the ungrounded wire from the killswitch to this terminal. Or for a generator engine, connect this terminal with a rectifier diode to temporarily energize the field windings in the generator so it will generate electricity.
• Connect the Brown wire on the sensor to the [B] terminal on the module, and to the ignition coil positive (+) terminal and to the ignition switch (which connects to the positive (+) battery post).
• Requires one (1) 3/16"/.187"/2.8mm and three (3) #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals. Mounting holes in the module body must be grounded to engine/chassis ground (which connects to the negative (–) battery post). When mounting the GM 4-pin HEI module, always fasten it with thermal paste (to dissipate normal operating heat) on a clean, flat aluminum plate with plenty of cool, circulating air to dissipate the heat while in operation. (The module does NOT have a built-in timing retard.)
• The cube-shape proximity sensor has an LED (Light Emitting Diode) on the unit. If the NPN (Negative-Positive-Negative) inductive proximity sensor is wired correctly, the LED will illuminate when in close proximity to the detectable target. This is when spark occurs. If the light stays on when the sensor is not in close proximity of the target and goes off when in close proximity of the target, then a PNP (Positive-Negative-Positive) type of sensor is being used. Click/tap here to print out this wiring diagram/instructions.

Chrysler / Dodge / Plymouth (MOPAR) Electronic Ignition Control Module/Unit Wiring Connections/Diagram with a Magnetic Pickup Coil

This electronic ignition system requires 12 volts DC negative ground. This module requires a minimum 1.2 Ohm ballast resistor to prevent from burning up unit. This high performance ignition system have been thoroughly tested under extreme conditions, and produces a stable and a very strong spark, even with a stock ignition coil (under most conditions, a high-output/performance coil or the 30,000 volt Bosch blue coil is not needed with this system), allowing the engine to start quickly, idle smoothly and rev up at open RPM with no hesitation or misfire to produce more power. Can be used with virtually any magnetic pickup coil or proximity sensor and ignition coil, regardless of the Ohm resistance or voltage output , and best to use a metal core conductor spark plug wire and non-resister type spark plug gapped at .035". (This system does NOT have a built-in timing retard.)

• Connect the wires on the magnetic pickup coil to the [A] and [B] terminals on the module. NOTE: Due to electrical polarity of certain magnetic pickup coils, if a weak spark occurs and/or if the engine fails to rev up, reverse the wires on the magnetic pickup coil to produce a stronger spark so the engine will start quick, idle smoothly and rev at open RPM.
• Connect the ignition coil negative (–) terminal to the [D] terminal on the module. For competition pulling - if the grounding-type killswitch is used, connect the ungrounded wire from the killswitch to this terminal. Or for a generator engine, connect this terminal with a rectifier diode to temporarily energize the field windings in the generator so it will generate electricity.
• Connect the [C] terminal to a minimum 1.2 Ohm ballast resistor, then to the positive (+) terminal on the ignition coil and to the ignition switch (which connects to the positive (+) battery post).
• (Optional) The [E] terminal (may not be present on certain modules) connects to the "I" (Ignition) terminal on a self-grounding 4-terminal starter solenoid to give the coil temporary full 12 volts for a stronger spark for faster cold engine start up. NOTE: If [E] is connected directly to the coil full-time and the engine is ran for a long period of time, the coil could overheat and eventually burn up. (The module does NOT have a built-in timing retard.)
• Body of module must be connected to engine/chassis ground (which connects to the negative (–) battery post). Click/tap here to print out this wiring diagram/instructions.

Chrysler / Dodge / Plymouth (MOPAR) Electronic Ignition Control Module /Unit Wiring Connections/Diagram with a 3-Wire Inductive or Hall Effect Proximity Sensor

This electronic ignition system requires 12 volts DC negative ground. This module requires a minimum 1.2 Ohm ballast resistor to prevent from burning up unit. This high performance ignition system have been thoroughly tested under extreme conditions, and produces a stable and a very strong spark, even with a stock ignition coil (under most conditions, a high-output/performance coil or the 30,000 volt Bosch blue coil is not needed with this system), allowing the engine to start quickly, idle smoothly and rev up at open speed. Can be used with virtually any magnetic pickup coil or proximity sensor and ignition coil, regardless of the Ohm resistance or voltage output , and best to use a metal core conductor spark plug wire and non-resister type spark plug gapped at .035". (This system does NOT have a built-in timing retard.)

• Connect the Black and Blue wires on the sensor to the [A] and [B] terminals on the module. NOTE: It shouldn't matter how the Black and Blue wires are mistakenly connected to the [A] and [B] terminals, but if a weak spark occurs and/or if the engine fails to rev up, reverse these wires to produce a stronger spark so the engine will start quick, idle smoothly and rev at open RPM.
• Always connect the Blue wire on the sensor to the engine/chassis ground (which connects to the negative (–) battery post). The proximity sensor will not work if the blue wire is not also grounded.
• Connect the [D] terminal on the module to the ignition coil negative (–) terminal. For competition pulling - if the grounding-type killswitch is used, connect the ungrounded wire from the killswitch to this terminal. Or for a generator engine, connect this terminal with a rectifier diode to temporarily energize the field windings in the generator so it will generate electricity.
• Connect [C] terminal on the module to the Brown wire on sensor, to a minimum 1.2 Ohm ballast resistor, to the positive (+) terminal on ignition coil, and to ignition switch (which connects to the positive (+) battery post).
• (Optional) The [E] terminal (may not be present on certain modules) connects to the "I" (Ignition) terminal on a self-grounding 4-terminal starter solenoid to give the coil temporary full 12 volts for a stronger spark for faster cold engine start up. NOTE: If [E] is connected directly to the coil full-time and the engine is ran for a long period of time, the coil could overheat and eventually burn up. (The module does NOT have a built-in timing retard.)
• Body of module must be connected to engine/chassis ground (which connects to the negative (–) battery post).
• Some proximity sensors have an LED (Light Emitting Diode) on the rear of unit. If the NPN (Negative-Positive-Negative) inductive proximity sensor is wired correctly, the LED will illuminate when in close proximity to the detectable target. This is when spark occurs. If the light stays on when the sensor is not in close proximity of the target and goes off when in close proximity of the target, then a PNP (Positive-Negative-Positive) type of sensor is being used. Click/tap here to print out this wiring diagram/instructions.

Ford / Mercury / Lincoln Electronic Ignition Control Module/Unit Wiring Connections/Diagram with a Magnetic Pickup Coil

This electronic ignition system requires 12 volts DC negative ground. This high performance ignition system have been thoroughly tested under extreme conditions, and produces a stable and a very strong spark, even with a stock ignition coil (under most conditions, a high-output/performance coil or the 30,000 volt Bosch blue coil is not needed with this system), allowing the engine to start quickly, idle smoothly and rev up at open speed. Can be used with virtually any magnetic pickup coil or proximity sensor and ignition coil, regardless of the Ohm resistance or voltage output , and best to use a metal core conductor spark plug wire and non-resister type spark plug gapped at .035". (This system does NOT have a built-in timing retard.)

• Connect the Orange and Purple wires on module to either wire on the magnetic pickup coil. NOTE: Due to electrical polarity of certain magnetic pickup coils, if a weak spark occurs and/or if the engine fails to rev up, reverse the wires on the magnetic pickup coil to produce a stronger spark so the engine will start quick, idle smoothly and rev at open RPM.
• Connect Green wire on module to ignition coil negative (–) terminal. For competition pulling - if the grounding-type killswitch is used, connect the ungrounded wire from the killswitch to this terminal. Or for a generator engine, connect this terminal with a rectifier diode to temporarily energize the field windings in the generator so it will generate electricity.
• Connect Red wire on module to ignition coil positive (+) terminal and to ignition switch (which connects to the positive (+) battery post). Can be used with virtually any ignition coil with a minimum 0.4 Ohm internal resister, and best to use a metal core conductor spark plug wire and non-resister type spark plug gapped at .035" for a strong spark.
• Black wire on module must be connected to engine/chassis ground (which connects to the negative (–) battery post).
• (Optional) The White wire connects to the "I" (Ignition) terminal on a self-grounding 4-terminal starter solenoid to give the coil temporary full 12 volts for a stronger spark for faster cold engine start up. If the White wire is connected directly to the coil full-time and the engine is ran for a long period of time, the coil could overheat and eventually burn up. (The module does NOT have a built-in timing retard.) Click/tap here to print out this wiring diagram/instructions. NOTE: The color orientation of the wires shown in the drawing above may not be the same on all modules, but they all connect the same way.

Ford / Mercury / Lincoln Electronic Ignition Control Module/Unit Wiring Connections/Diagram with a 3-Wire Inductive or Hall Effect Proximity Sensor

This electronic ignition system requires 12 volts DC negative ground. This high performance ignition system have been thoroughly tested under extreme conditions, and produces a stable and a very strong spark, even with a stock ignition coil (under most conditions, a high-output/performance coil or the 30,000 volt Bosch blue coil is not needed with this system), allowing the engine to start quickly, idle smoothly and rev up at open speed. Can be used with virtually any magnetic pickup coil or proximity sensor and ignition coil, regardless of the Ohm resistance or voltage output, and will produce a strong spark so the engine will allow the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly, rev up at open RPM with no hesitation or misfire and it'll produce more power. This system can be used with virtually any ignition coil with a minimum 0.4 Ohm internal resister, and best to use a metal core conductor spark plug wire and non-resister type spark plug gapped at .035" for a strong spark. (This system does NOT have a built-in timing retard.)

• Connect the Black and Blue wires on sensor to the Orange and Purple wires on module. NOTE: It shouldn't matter how the Black and Blue wires are mistakenly connected to the Orange and Purple wires, but if a weak spark occurs and/or if the engine fails to rev up, reverse these wires to produce a stronger spark so the engine will start quick, idle smoothly and rev at open RPM.
• Always connect the Blue wire on the sensor to the engine/chassis ground (which connects to the negative (–) battery post). The proximity sensor will not work if the blue wire is not also grounded.
• Connect the Green wire on module to ignition coil negative (–) terminal. For competition pulling - if you're using the grounding-type of killswitch, connect the ungrounded wire from the killswitch to this terminal. Or for a generator engine, connect this terminal with a rectifier diode to temporarily energize the field windings in the generator so it will generate electricity.
• Connect the Brown wire on the sensor to the Red wire on the module, and to the ignition coil positive (+) terminal, and to the ignition switch (which connects to the positive (+) battery post). Can be used with virtually any ignition coil with a minimum 0.4 Ohm internal resister, and best to use a metal core conductor spark plug wire and non-resister type spark plug gapped at .035" for a strong spark.
• The Black wire on the module must be connected to the engine/chassis ground (which connects to the negative (–) battery post).
• (Optional) The White wire connects to the "I" (Ignition) terminal on a self-grounding 4-terminal starter solenoid to give the coil temporary full 12 volts for a stronger spark for faster cold engine start up. If the White wire is connected directly to the coil full-time and the engine is ran for a long period of time, the coil could overheat and eventually burn up. (The module does NOT have a built-in timing retard.)
• Some proximity sensors have an LED (Light Emitting Diode) on the rear of unit. If the NPN (Negative-Positive-Negative) inductive proximity sensor is wired correctly, the LED will illuminate when in close proximity to the detectable target. This is when spark occurs. If the light stays on when the sensor is not in close proximity of the target and goes off when in close proximity of the target, then a PNP (Positive-Negative-Positive) type of sensor is being used. Click/tap here to print out this wiring diagram/instructions. NOTE: The color orientation of the wires shown in the drawing above may not be the same on all modules, but they all connect the same way.

Flywheel- or Crank-Trigger Ignition Will Work on Virtually Any Single- or Multi-Cylinder Gas Spark-Ignited Engine.

• For a one cylinder engine, only one trigger screw, pin or magnet will need to be installed in/on the ignition disc, flywheel, hub, etc.
• For a two cylinder engine, two trigger screws, pins or magnets will need to be installed precisely 180º apart in/on the ignition disc, flywheel, hub, etc. (360 ÷ 2 = 180)
• For a three cylinder engine, three trigger screws, pins or magnets will need to be installed precisely 120º apart in/on the ignition disc, flywheel, hub, etc.(360 ÷ 3 = 120)
• For a four cylinder engine, four trigger screws, pins or magnets will need to be installed precisely 90º apart in/on the ignition disc, flywheel, hub, etc. (360 ÷ 4 = 90)
• For a five cylinder engine, five trigger screws, pins or magnets will need to be installed precisely 72º apart in/on the ignition disc, flywheel, hub, etc. (360 ÷ 5 = 72)
• For a six cylinder engine, six trigger screws, pins or magnets will need to be installed precisely 60º apart in/on the ignition disc, flywheel, hub, etc. (360 ÷ 6 = 60)
• For an eight cylinder engine, eight trigger screws, pins or magnets will need to be installed precisely 45º apart in/on the ignition disc, flywheel, hub, etc. (360 ÷ 8 = 45)
• For a ten cylinder engine, ten trigger screws, pins or magnets will need to be installed precisely 36º apart in/on the ignition disc, flywheel, hub, etc. (360 ÷ 10 = 36)
• For a twelve cylinder engine, twelve trigger screws, pins or magnets will need to be installed precisely 30º apart in/on the ignition disc, flywheel, hub, etc. (360 ÷ 12 = 30)
• The trigger screws or pins will need to be set so the ignition timing will be properly advanced at all times so the engine will produce full power.
• Each trigger screw or pin is installed in the disc exactly when the matching piston is at so many degrees before top dead center. An adjustable ignition disc with slotted bolt holes to adjust or precisely set the timing can be used, too.
• And for all of these engines, one magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor, one electronic ignition control module and an ignition coil for each cylinder or one GM DIS (Distributorless Ignition System) ignition coil for every two cylinders will need to be used. Connect the wires for multiple coils (for a multi-cylinder engine) as follows: Connect the battery (+) positive wire to the (+) terminal on each coil, then the coil's negative (–) terminal to the specified terminal or wire on the module.

Degree Increments for a Super Spacer or Table with a Self-Centering 3-Jaw Chuck -
The chart below is for installing multiple detectable trigger targets (screws, pins or magnets) in the ignition disc for a crank- or flywheel-trigger ignition system. This chart also comes in handy for drilling multiple holes of equal spacing in axle flanges and other things. NOTE: The degrees shown is not for the spark to occur at 0º TDC for each cylinder. They are the locations of the spark for each cylinder so they will have equal timing or exact distance of spark between them. And the reason 7 holes is not shown is because 360º cannot be easily divided equally into 7 spaces.

For a multi-cylinder engine, when each detectable trigger target (screw, pin or magnet) is equally spaced apart in the ignition disc and the timing for each target is precisely aligned when its piston is at whatever degrees BTDC it's supposed be, they will fire at whatever degrees BTDC for that piston. It wouldn't matter if a screw creates a spark when the piston that isn't aligned with it or near TDC because there wouldn't be any compression at the position. It'll be a multiple, but wasted spark. This is why MSD (MSD Performance) stands for Multiple Spark Discharge. Also, being the timing will be in the advanced setting at all times with no retard (and no automatic compression release), two switches will be required to start the engine. One being a momentary push button starter switch. to crank the engine, and the other an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or [security] key switch to power the ignition. To start the engine, first crank it over, and while it's cranking, choke the carburetor (or use A-1 Miller's remote fuel primer system, which works much better and is easier to use), and then "put the spark to the engine" by turning on the toggle/flip switch or [security] key switch. The engine should start easily and quickly every time. This works because the spinning centrifugal force of the heavy flywheel prevents the engine from "kicking back" when power is first supplied to the ignition. If the engine has an automatic compression release, this will not need to be done.

When using a magnetic pickup coil or a Normally Open 3-wire inductive proximity sensor for a multi-cylinder engine, a steel sprocket can be used as the trigger disc. The pickup coil or sensor will detect the [raised] sprocket teeth as the triggering objects. And being sprocket teeth are equally spaced apart, they're already degreed in. Use an even number teeth sprocket for an even numbered spark engine, and an odd number teeth sprocket for an odd numbered spark engine. Just grind away the teeth between the ones that needs to make the spark for each cylinder. But be sure to grind away the metal so the disc will maintain perfect balance.

Crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger ignition will spark on the compression stroke for each piston when used on a multiple cylinder engine. It'll also work excellent on any 2-cycle engine, because it fires on every stroke of the piston. On a opposed twin or two cylinder engine, use just one Chrysler or Ford electronic ignition control module/unit (ICU), one magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor, one detectable target (screw or pin) in the ignition disc located at approximately 20º BTDC on the compression for the #1 cylinder. It'll spark for the #2 cylinder at 20º BTDC on the compression stroke, too. And you could install two standard-output/stock automotive ignition coils, one for each cylinder. Wire them together as you would for one coil. As the detectable target (screw or pin) pass the pickup coil, a spark will be produced for each cylinder, one piston being on the compression stroke and the other on the exhaust stroke and vice-versa. It'll work identically the same as Briggs & Stratton's Magnetron™ ignition on their opposed twin cylinder flathead (valves in block) engines. Because the Briggs opposed twins use a single ignition coil. By the way, the stock timing on Briggs engines for gas is set at 11º BTDC. To advance the timing for methanol fuel, a special-made 3/16" square offset flywheel key must be used. Offset flywheel keys are originally made for racing go-karts and Junior Dragsters with the 5hp Briggs & Stratton engine. They come in 2º, 4º, 6º and 8º increments. Do a Google search for an offset flywheel key. Use the 6º key for a setting of 17º BTDC (11º + 6º = 17º).

For a Kohler Magnum or any other make of engine with fixed solid state electronic ignition, to advance the ignition timing when burning either E-85 or methanol fuel, either an offset flywheel key will need to be installed, or a new keyway will need to be broached in the flywheel taper a several degrees advanced from the original keyway. A special-made offset woodruff flywheel key will need to be used when advancing the ignition timing on a Kohler Magnum engine. Precise calculation will need to be made to determine the amount of offset in the key, or where the new keyway should be. If cutting a new keyway, the original keyway will need to be filled-in with either bronze brazing or steel stock the same width as the keyway silver-soldered in place to prevent the metal from breaking next to the original keyway when broaching the new keyway slot.

If installed correctly, nothing could possibly go wrong with the flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition system. Mainly because everything is totally sealed. There's no moving parts to wear and it could very well outlast the life of a typical tractor, even when used in high performance conditions! It's virtually maintenance-free, extremely reliable. That's why auto manufacturers, virtually all small engine manufacturers (Kohler's Magnum engines ignition system operates much like crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger ignition) and most high performance/racing vehicles nowadays use electronic [or better yet, computerized] ignition. Plus it's something fancy to show off. It's powered by full 12 volts and features a more stable spark than the convention point ignition. You can also use your existing standard ignition coil. And remember, a high-output/performance ignition coil will draw more power from the battery.

Crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger ignition will work on virtually any small engine, but only if there's room on the crankshaft (preferably the PTO end, which is opposite the flywheel end) for mounting of the rotating disc that contains the detectable target (screw, pin, magnet, or small raised area on the rotating disc) (see below Ê). The trigger screw(s) or small magnet can also be fastened onto the factory flywheel. Be sure to allow the head of [each] screw extend approximately 1/8" above the outer edge of the flywheel to prevent an out of time spark occurrence. And when mounting the magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor, make sure it's mounted rigid and stable to prevent erratic timing fluctuations.

On a single cylinder engine, this type of ignition will produce a spark on both the compression and exhaust strokes, which is harmless. Camshaft driven point ignitions only spark during the compression stroke. By the way, Kohler engine is mentioned here only as an example, because they're most common in garden tractor pulling.

A-1 Miller's custom-made flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition system is nothing to be afraid of. Once you understand how it works, it's actually quite simple and you'd feel more confident using it. Also, once you've tried this type of ignition, you'd be reluctant to go back to ignition points. If the crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger ignition is installed correctly on an engine and the timing is set right, it'll bring a pulling tractor to life and help it scream down the track! But if an engine already have a factory-installed solid state electronic ignition that is triggered by the flywheel, you really don't need crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger ignition0. Factory-installed flywheel-trigger ignitions are very stable, reliable and they produce a strong spark. But if you're installing a machined steel flywheel with no detector/trigger magnets or pins on an engine that originally came with solid state electronic ignition and/or there's no provisions (no threaded bolt holes present) on the block to install ignition points, you will need the flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition system.

Degreeing the ignition disc -

To simplify degreeing the ignition disc, after finding true 0º TDC on the disc, use a 6" protractor to make timing degree marks on the disc. Refer to the animated drawing to the right -> for identification. Hold the protractor on the disc, align the 0º TDC mark on the disc with the zero on the protractor, and then, facing the disc as if it were mounted on the PTO end of the engine, and with the magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor mounted either above the disc or on the side of the engine block, make the marks on the disc going counterclockwise of the TDC mark. Going counterclockwise of the 0º TDC mark would be advancing the ignition timing, and clockwise of the 0º TDC mark would be retarding it. Degree it as shown in the drawing to the left. But make sure that the marks on the disc are according to how the disc is going to be mounted on the crankshaft, with the center protruding hub facing toward the engine or away from it. Otherwise, the marks could be on the wrong side of the disc. (Most of the time, the protruding part of the hub face away from the engine.)

The ignition disc doesn't have to be made of aluminum. If there's a steel hub or disc mounted on the end of the crankshaft, it could be used to trigger the ignition. As long as the head(s) of the detectable target(s) is/are higher than the outer edge of the [steel] hub, the magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor will detect it/them and not the hub or disc.

NOTE: The detectable target (screw or pin) can be located anywhere in the ignition disc, as long as it's positioned 20º BTDC. Find the true 0º TDC on the disc, then locate the 20º BTDC position from there. On an engine that runs clockwise when facing the front of the engine (flywheel or harmonic balancer), with the disc on the PTO end of the crank, and when facing the PTO end, the 20º position will be counterclockwise from the 0º TDC mark. On flywheel end, the 20º BTDC position is clockwise from 0º TDC.

Use a Sprocket as an Ignition Disc -

If you don't have a capabilities to machine your own ignition disc, then using a steel sprocket with all but one tooth removed should work excellent. Just make sure the sprocket is perfectly round and balanced so the engine won't vibrate. Use a Weld-A-Sprocket hub or some type of hub to securely fasten the sprocket disc to for correct alignment of the ignition timing. And as long as the single tooth is extended a minimum of 3/16" higher than or above the rest of the disc, and the disc is not oblong or egg-shape, the sensor should detect it instead of the disc. And as for the diameter of the disc, for most engines, a 6" diameter disc works well. But just to make sure for any particular engine, figure where the sensor will be mounted and then measure out from the center of the crankshaft to the end of the sensor.

Set the ignition timing according to piston travel in the cylinder, as mentioned earlier in this website. Install a timing degree indicator mark (with a black felt tip ink marker) on the disc and a mark on the engine block, then make a final check of the ignition timing with the engine running using an inductive strobe timing light. The timing light connects to the battery posts and spark plug wire.

How It Works:

The magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor is able to detect the presence of the detectable target (screw, pin, small magnet, or small raised area on the rotating disc) without any physical contact. Each time the detectable target in the rotating disc passes the magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor, this generates a small electrical current within the pickup coil or sensor. This current is sent in the form of a signal to the electronic ignition control module/unit (ICU); within, a transistor opens the primary circuit in the ignition coil and the spark occurs. All this happens at the speed of electricity, which can be anywhere from about 50% to 99% of the speed of light, depending upon the quality of the electronic components and wiring connections. Each module provides open RPM. The conventional ignition points and condenser/capacitor ignition system is less responsive. When wired correctly, it's normal for the flywheel- and crank-trigger ignition systems to make a spark when first powered up. And if it makes a spark as the sensor passes the metal target object, then the ignition system is working as it should.

Checking for Spark -

Because this system produce a spark at very low cranking speeds, once installed, you can check for spark simply by rotating the crankshaft or rotating disc back and forth by hand so the steel detectable target (screw, pin, small magnet, or small raised area on the rotating disc) pass the magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor. But turn the ignition switch on first. Also, after the engine is ran, and because there may be some raw fuel remaining in the combustion chamber, crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger ignition will produce a single spark each time the ignition switch is turned on. Sometimes this spark will make the engine go "POOF", which is harmless in most cases.

How to Test if a GM 4-pin HEI, Chrysler (w/ballast resistor) or Ford Electronic Ignition Control Module/Unit is Functioning or Not -

To test if a GM 4-pin HEI, Chrysler (w/ballast resistor) or Ford electronic ignition control module is functioning or not, connect a fully charged 1.5 volt [flashlight] battery to the two terminals on the module that connects to the magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor (it doesn't matter which of the two terminals is connected to the battery, but disconnect the sensor first!) and connect the other terminals/wires on the module as shown in the diagrams above. With the battery connected, a constant, continuous array of sparks should result at the spark plug's tip. Don't connect the flashlight battery with the magnetic pickup coil connected! It'll burn it up! Anyway, this test proves only if the module is functioning or not. It won't show if it's in good working condition. The connected battery should create a continuous spark at the spark plug's tip. (FYI - The continuous spark will come in handy as a temporary or replacement pilot light, such as to ignite a burner in a gas stove/heater or forced air heater when the factory igniter unit has failed.) And don't use a 12 volt portable battery charger alone to supply the power to check for spark or test a module for crank- or flywheel-trigger ignition. Battery chargers constantly switch between high to low voltage at 60 cycles per second. The module for the crank- or flywheel-trigger ignition sees this as the ignition being switched on and off, resulting in a constant, continuous array of sparks at the spark plug's tip. Therefore, only a fully charged 12 volt battery should be used for testing.

How to Check for Spark with the GM 4-pin HEI, Chrysler (w/ballast resistor) or Ford Modules -

After either ignition system is installed on the engine and power is supplied, simply rotate the flywheel, pulley, etc., containing the detectable target (screw, pin, small magnet, or small raised area on the rotating disc) on the crankshaft back and forth by hand. Each time the screw passes the sensor, spark should occur. NOTE: Do not use a battery charger alone to perform this test. Battery chargers constantly switch between high and low voltage at 60 cycles per second, and the module sees this as the ignition being switched on and off resulting in a continuous, constant array of sparks. By the way - I have not received any complaints from our customers or the readers of this website concerning the crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger ignition about their engine(s) running erratic or misfiring at open RPM, unless of course, the sensor has too much clearance or they installed a defective module.

A simple and precise way to set the ignition timing STATICALLY (engine not running) for either module/sensor -

1. Place a mark (line) with a permanent ink marker (Marks A Lot or Sharpie) or a flat chisel on the side of the locking set screw collar next to the embedded magnet. This is to indicate where the magnet is located from the side of the collar.
2. Align the S mark on the flywheel with the raised line on the bearing plate where you want the timing to be set.
3. Align the mark on the collar with center of the module/sensor with the timing mark on the flywheel and raised line.
4. Tighten the set screw in the collar and the timing will be correctly set.

How to accurately set the ignition timing STATICALLY (engine not running) for the GM 4-pin HEI, Chrysler (w/ballast resistor) or Ford modules - (This is also how to test if the module is functioning or not.)

1. Connect the wires correctly for the module/sensor as specified in this website with a fully charged 12 volt battery connected in the circuit.
2. Connect a multimeter [set on the 12 volt reading] or 12 volt test light between the negative (–) coil terminal and engine/chassis ground. The light should be off or the multimeter should show no voltage reading.
3. Rotate the crankshaft to position the flywheel, pulley, etc., with the desired timing mark aligned with the timing pointer or indicator on the engine. This is close to where the timing needs to be set.
4. If using a , with the Allen set screw loose in the collar, rotate the collar side to side by hand when the detector/trigger (screw, pin, small magnet, or small raised area on the rotating disc) is centered with the magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor.
   • For the magnetic pickup coil, the light should flicker or the multimeter should momentarily display approximate battery voltage (digital meter) or the needle should bounce (analog meter). It is at this point when spark occurs.
   • For the 3-wire inductive proximity sensor, the light should stay on or the multimeter should show approximate battery voltage. The LED in the 3-wire inductive proximity sensor can also be used for this test. It is at this point when spark occurs.
5. Tighten the Allen set screw in the collar on the crankshaft. The ignition timing is now set close to where it needs to be.

How to precisely set the ignition timing DYNAMICALLY (engine running) with an automotive inductive timing light for the GM 4-pin HEI, Chrysler (w/ballast resistor) or Ford modules. (This is the most accurate way to set the timing.) NOTE: Timing can be checked, but not set while the engine is running!

1. Start the engine, shine the timing light on the timing mark on the flywheel, pulley, etc., in relation with the pointer on the engine block to see exactly where the timing needs to be set.
2. If the timing is not set correctly, shut off the engine and loosen the Allen set screw in the locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet, or move the magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor one way or the other in the slot to advance or retard the timing, and tighten the Allen set screw in the collar, or magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor.
3. Start the engine again, shine the timing light to see if the timing is set exactly where it needs to be.
4. Repeat steps 1, 2 and 3 if necessary until the timing is set exactly where it needs to be, and securely tighten the Allen set screw, or magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor.
5. No further adjustments are required.

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Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website.

Custom-Made Reliable and Maintenance-Free Electronic Ignition Systems That Operate Off the Flywheel End of Virtually Any Older Small Engine - Eliminates Old-Fashioned Points and Condenser or Troublesome OEM Solid State Ignition

Get that old, antique small gas engine running again with 21st century technology using 100% reliable digital electronic ignition, even when new replacement parts are obsolete or cost-prohibited. Electronic ignition can be installed on virtually any small gas engine. Where there's a will, there's a way. It's mind over matter. Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. [Top of Page] [Return to previous paragraph, section or website]

FYI - I can install any of my custom-made flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition systems on your older small gas engine and/or rewire your lawn & garden tractor, small engine equipment, small motorized vehicle or competition garden pulling tractor so all the electrical accessories will work and if everything else is in good condition with the engine (compression, carburetion, etc.), the engine should start quickly, idle well and rev up to its full potential every time. I have the knowledge, skills, all the tools and parts necessary to perform a professional job. I've rewired many customer's lawn & garden tractors, small engine equipment and competition garden pulling tractors many times with great results. If you're interested, click/tap here for my contact information and directions to A-1 Miller's shop. - Brian Miller

This is the era of modern wonders, where everything is transistorized, digitized and miniaturized. Yet even today, many garden tractor pullers still use the old-fashioned and outdated breaker point ignition system on their competition garden pulling tractors, even when their sanctioning club's rules allow crank trigger ignition. For other people who use ordinary lawn and garden small engine equipment, the frustration of attempting to keep a breaker point-fired engine in peak running condition has been enough of a reason to join the electronic era. Breaker point systems do have some positives, though. Points and condensers are cheap and somewhat easy to install. And many people are comfortable with installing their own points and condensers. The bad side of using points is, besides the points contacts burning, pitting and wearing out, if or when the point gap gets too narrow, the ignition timing can get retarded, and when it gets too wide, the timing will become too advanced.

NOTE: With all of my crank-trigger ignition systems (all listed below), when installed accordingly, the ignition timing is ALWAYS advanced. If it's set or installed retarded, it will NOT automatically advance as soon as the engine starts. If the timing is set retarded, the only way to advance it is by rotating an ignition plate or ignition distributor manually by hand, or automatically by a vacuum canister with intake manifold, or by centrifugal force with flyweights.

When the timing is retarded, the engine may start with no problems, but not idle or rev up too well, and it'll lack sufficient power. Also, with retarded timing, all of the fuel in the combustion chamber will not be burned. Part of the raw fuel will exit out of the exhaust, while the rest will remain in the chamber combustion and cling to the cylinder wall, causing the crankcase lubricating oil to become diluted or thin-out. When this happens, "cylinder wash down" will result. Cylinder wash down is when the gas (or diesel fuel) dilutes the light coating of oil on the cylinder wall, and the piston rings will no longer be adequately lubricated, causing direct metal to metal contact, which will cause them to wear excessively, and cause the cylinder wall have a protruding ridge towards the top, resulting in a smoky, oil burning engine overtime. Cylinder wash down can also happen to a diesel engine when the fuel injectors are purposely "turned up" to increase the fuel delivery so the engine will produce more power. This will cause a lot of black smoke be blown out the exhaust all the time (at idle and especially upon acceleration), which will result in shorter engine life, and eventually, gray exhaust smoke (crankcase oil ash) will be mixed with the black exhaust smoke (partially burned diesel fuel ash). It'll run good for a while!

But when the ignition timing is too advanced, this will cause the engine to run too hot, which will likely cause the piston(s) to swell larger than normal, allowing it/them to make metal to metal contact against the cylinder wall, resulting in excessive wear. When the piston wears, it will be too loose in the cylinder, causing a rattling sound. Plus, due to the worn piston, the rings will loose their square edge against the cylinder wall, and become rounded, which will allow oil to be moved to the top of the piston instead of being scraped back into the crankcase. (This is the how the 2nd or middle ring works.) Plus, the rings will lose their expansion against the cylinder wall as well. Eventually, the engine will blow blue or gray smoke out the exhaust, and it will ultimately need to be rebuilt.

If electronic ignition is installed correctly, when the ignition is triggered by the flywheel, this stabilizes the timing, so you won't ever have to worry about it changing. The engine will produce more power and you will have more confidence that the engine will last longer. (As long as an air filter is used, the carburetor is adjusted correctly and the crankcase oil is changed regularly.) So for the utmost precision ignition timing and maintenance-free convenience, flywheel-trigger electronic ignition is the way to go! The high performance electronic ignition systems offered in this website produce a stable and a very strong spark with the use of microelectronics. They will allow the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly, rev up at open RPM with no hesitation or misfire and produce more power.

As a matter of fact, electronic ignition works so well, this is why most small engine manufacturers dropped their points and condenser ignition and went to electronic ignition in 1982. And most automotive manufacturers started installing electronic ignition in their vehicles since 1972 (Chrysler products) and 1974 (GM and Ford products).

Tired of cleaning, changing or constantly readjusting the ignition points, and replacing the condenser? Well, upgrade/convert the engine with an A-1 Miller's custom-made, maintenance-free and weather-proof 100% digitized flywheel-trigger electronic ignition system! Shock and moisture resistant, and all it takes is a few simple hand tools to install. In my opinion, getting rid of the points and condenser/capacitor have been the best advance ever in engine technology. FYI - I've designed and sold many various custom-made electronic ignition systems to customers for the past several years and haven't received one complaint about the performance of their engine. Because I use technology that I learned from experiences with my competitive competition pulling tractors (engines) to help factory stock lawn & garden engines perform better. And as a matter of fact, other people have emailed or called me to complain to me about my competitor's replacement electronic ignition systems for Tecumseh engines. They said their technical customer service assistance to resolve the problem was of no help. No joke. Apparently, my competitors haven't quite figured it out yet.

FYI - Kohler's Breakerless Ignition and Tecumseh's (cast iron engine) Solid State Ignition (SSI) systems use a key switch that's also made for a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system. Unlike the key switch for a battery-powered ignition system, the Breakerless Ignition is self-energizing, and to kill the engine, the key switch grounds out or shorts the [low voltage] circuit between the energizing coil and ignition control module. And the battery-powered key switch opens the circuit to kill the engine. So with the battery-powered points and condenser ignition system (along with a 12 volt coil), you will need to use a battery-powered key switch, or an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or [security] key switch to power the ignition and a momentary push button starter switch. to crank the engine could be used instead. If swapping out the OEM Breakerless Ignition, SSI, magneto or solid state ignition key switch for a battery-powered ignition key switch, the wire connectors in the wiring harness plug will need to be rearranged to match the terminals on the key switch to power the ignition, crank the engine and run other electrical accessories. I've done this before on some of my customer's garden tractors and it works great. Click/tap here for battery-powered ignition wiring diagrams.

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Replace Old-Fashioned, Out-Dated and Troublesome Points and Condenser in Virtually Any Self-Energizing Magneto Ignition System with the State of the Art Universal Solid State Electronic Ignition Module! [Top of Page] [Return to previous paragraph, section or website] Designed to convert a self-energizing magneto ignition system into the more reliable and dependable electronic ignition system. Will NOT work with a 12 volt battery-powered ignition system. If used with 12 volts, the module will burn up instantly when power is supplied. Upgrade the magneto ignition system on virtually any engine with the latest technology! Do away with the ignition points and condenser/capacitor (plug the points pushrod hole), and install a solid state electronic ignition module. It should be the end of your ignition problems. The ignition points and condenser/capacitor need to be removed from the engine and plug the ignition points plunger/pushrod hole. (Briggs & Stratton and Kohler engines.) Designed to be used on engines with the new style one piece automatic compression release (ARC) camshaft. Universal and high performance. This high performance ignition system have been thoroughly tested under extreme conditions, and produces a stable and very strong spark with the use of microelectronics, and by stabilizing the spark. This module has a durable die-cast aluminum housing. Weather-proof and very reliable. Ignition timing is automatically set. No "kickback" and no timing adjustment required. Works excellent with virtually any magneto armature ignition coil! Suitable for use with most 2 leg or 3 leg magneto coils and with a flywheel having one or two magnets mounted internally or externally, and with coil mounted underneath or outside of flywheel. Works great regardless of the polarity of the magnets, too. Works on most lawn mowers, chain saws, trimmers, garden tillers, snow throwers, brush cutters, various one or two cylinder outboard boat motors, etc., with ignition points and condenser/capacitor ignition. But will not work with most Stihl trimmers and chain saws, or when the armature ignition coil is energized by a generator that gets its power from the magnet in the flywheel, such as various outboard boat motors. Usually, the coil don't need replacing when substituting the ignition points and condenser/capacitor with one of these solid state electronic ignition modules. If the engine ran, then the coil is obviously good. Works only with magneto armature ignition coils originally connected to contact ignition points and a condenser/capacitor. They will not work with solid state electronic ignition (CDI) coils, battery ignition coils or with flywheels having a ring of magnets mounted internally to which the armature ignition coil (mounted underneath flywheel also) operates off of, such as the bigger aluminum block Tecumseh engines (8hp and up). Most spark ignited gas engines can't start under full compression AND with fixed advanced ignition timing. With fixed advanced timing, one or the other must be "suppressed" in order for the engine to crank over without "kicking back" to start. Either it needs to have an automatic compression release to relieve about half the compression, then full compression will return upon start up. Or the timing needs to be positioned at TDC, then with an automatic advance feature, it will fully advance upon start up. (With this module, as each magnet pass the coil, it'll produce a spark. And if the spark don't occur at the precise time with the piston at a certain position in the cylinder, the engine will either "kickback" or will not run.) "Kickback" occurs when the crankshaft/flywheel suddenly and violently momentarily rotates in the opposite direction, which is could bend or break the starter armature shaft or the aluminum starter housing. If the magnets for the charging system won't interfere with the magneto coil(s), then these modules should work well. But if the magneto coil(s) operate off the same magnets for the charging system, then neither module won't work. The modules senses when the magnet pass the coil and that's when it makes the spark. If a bunch of magnets continually pass the coil, then the coil will produce an array of sparks. How the timing is automatically set and how it works: First of all, with ignition points, the point gap determines where the ignition timing is set (on systems with a fixed or non-adjustable armature ignition coil). Therefore, the spark occurs when the magnet in the flywheel pass the coil armature the moment the ignition points open. But with no ignition points, the magnet still pass the coil armature at the same moment, which sends an electrical current through a transistor and electronic components within these modules. This current is sent in the form of a signal to the module; within, a transistor opens the primary circuit in the coil and the spark occurs. All this happens at the speed of electricity, which can be anywhere from about 50% to 99% of the speed of light, depending upon the quality of the electronic components and Wiring connections. Either module provides open RPM. The conventional ignition points and condenser/capacitor ignition system is less responsive. With this module, the ignition timing will never change. And I'm not sure how to test for a bad or faulty solid state electronic ignition module. They either work or don't work. And to tell the truth, I've never had one go bad. Usually, if there's no spark, then either the module is not properly grounded to the engine, the module is installed too close to the engine exhaust heat, the connectors on the module needs to be reversed, a faulty wiring connection, the coil is bad or the spark plug is fouled (red or white spark). This module should work very well with most magneto armature ignition coils. However, a new coil is recommended to use with this module. If a used coil is utilized, a weak spark may occur. This module is not for use on engines equipped with battery ignition, solid state electronic armature ignition coil/module or multiple magnets under the flywheel with armature ignition coil under the flywheel, too. Scroll down for wiring diagrams and installation instructions Ê. Video of this ignition module installed on a running engine coming soon. Solid State Electronic Ignition Module w/Two Terminals. $20.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Please let me know if you're interested in purchasing this part and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options. [Return to previous paragraph, section or website] Wiring Diagram and Installation Instructions for Universal Solid State Electronic Magneto Ignition Module are as follows: Fasten the module to the engine sheet metal that has plenty of cool, circulating air with the supplied mounting screw. Connect the supplied wire to one of the terminals on the module and to engine ground. The armature ignition coil has two small wires coming out of it. Leave the original (short) wire connected (grounded) to the stator armature, and connect the wire that went to the points and condenser to the unused terminal on the module. Remove the spark plug from the cylinder head, and connect the high tension coil wire to a new spark plug positioned on a (grounded) metal part of the engine. Crank the engine rapidly, and at the same time, observe for a strong, snappy blue spark at the spark plug's tip. If there's no spark, try reversing the two wires on the module. (This is due to reverse polarity in the flywheel magnet.). IMPORTANT: Use a new copper core/non-resistor AC Delco, Autolite or Champion spark plug of the correct type gapped at .025" for longer coil life. Use of a resistor type or NGK spark plug will void warranty. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any of these parts or services. 3/16" Steel Plug to Replace Kohler Ignition Points Pushrod. Use in Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, K482, K532 and K582 when converting from magneto to solid state ignition (listed above), Magnum solid state ignition, A-1 Miller's flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition (further down in this website). Remove the points cover, ignition points and pushrod, and install this plug in the pushrod hole (to prevent major oil leakage) with a medium size hammer; fits very tight. No need to reinstall cover and points. NOTE: The alternative to using this plug is to remove the ignition points and points pushrod, and place the pushrod on a hard, flat surface, and use a hammer and sharp flat cold chisel to lightly create knurled raised marks midway on the pushrod. Then reinstall the knurled pushrod in the engine block with the hammer. Or a 20 penny common nail cut off to 1/2" length and the end ground to a bevel will serve the same purpose. The knurling will retain the pushrod in the hole. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.) OEM Briggs & Stratton part #'s 231143, 692882. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling. [Return to previous paragraph, section or website]

Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Return to previous paragraph, section or website] [Top of Page]

If a Kohler flywheel has no projection (hump) or large bolt head for Breakerless Ignition, but does have a 3/4" wide area between the fins and ring gear (as shown in the photos above È), or a billet steel flywheel, to use a magnetic pickup coil, 3-wire inductive (detects iron/steel) proximity sensor, a small, short steel Phillips or button head socket (Allen) Head screw and a minimum 1/4" length aluminum spacer secured with a split lock washer or high strength liquid threadlocker (Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent) can be used as the signal detection for the flywheel-trigger electronic ignition. A steel dowel pin or knurled steel pin could be used instead of a screw or spiral pin, but because of exerted centrifugal force, the screw would be more secure due to its thread retention. FYI - Store a container of liquid threadlocker or Super Glue upright and not laying flat. The capped tip will not dry out and clog when stored upright.

The curvature or dome shape heads of button- and Phillips-head screws makes them ideal for use on a trigger disc or flywheel. Spark occurs at the leading (high side) edge of the hump or screw, and not in the center of the hump or screw. When the magnetic pickup coil or cube-shape proximity sensor is at the leading edge of the hump and when the S mark on the flywheel is aligned with the raised line on the bearing plate, it is at this point the timing is at 20º BTDC. But if the flywheel has the 3/4" wide area, but no projection (hump) or large bolt head, with the magnetic pickup coil or cube-shape proximity sensor installed on the bearing plate and the 20º BTDC mark on the flywheel aligned with the raised line on the bearing plate.

When using an inductive proximity sensor, being proximity sensors detect a farther distance (up to 3/16") than a magnetic pickup coil, install a 3/4" length steel screw with a 1/4" length aluminum spacer (to retain flywheel balance). This will extend the detectable target 1/4" above the surface of the flywheel to prevent an out of time spark occurrence by part of the flywheel itself. Or if using a non-magnetic pickup coil, 3-wire hall effect proximity sensor or a non-magnetic PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor, a small ring magnet fastened by a small screw can be used to create a rotating magnet detection target. The head of the screw will become magnetized.

An 8-32 UNC and 10-32 UNF x 1/2" length screws with a split lock washer (and small magnet) only weighs about 1/10 of an ounce or 2.8 grams, so this will not make the flywheel significantly noticeably or dangerously out of balance. But if you're concerned about the flywheel being out of balance with the trigger screw/bolt, pin or screw w/ring magnet installed, the flywheel can be static balanced by weighing the flywheel and screw/bolt, pin or screw w/ring magnet separately on a precision scale, make a note of the exact weight of each item, and either install a stainless steel screw of the same exact weight as the trigger screw and magnet on the opposite side of the flywheel (180º apart), or drill a couple of shallow holes into the flywheel next to or beside the installed trigger screw/bolt, pin or screw w/ring magnet to put the flywheel back in balance. Make sure the flywheel is perfectly clean of dirt and debris, too. Actually, it's best to have the flywheel with the trigger screw/bolt, pin or screw w/ring magnet installed dynamically precision spin-balanced on a automotive balancing machine. Again, make sure the flywheel is perfectly clean of dirt and debris.

And for the ignition timing to be set at 20º BTDC, with the S mark on the flywheel and raised line on the bearing plate aligned, the screw will need to be located at 2-3/8" when using a magnetic pickup coil or proximity sensor. This setup can be adapted to a Kohler engine with the flywheel that has the starter/generator and gear starter alike. Or it can be applied to an engine with a steel flywheel for competition pulling. And the mounting holes in the angled bracket for the magnetic pickup coil can be elongated for precise adjustment/setting of the timing. If there's already a projection (hump) or large bolt head on the flywheel, then there's no need to modify the flywheel for this conversion or upgrade. If they're not already present, new 10-24 UNC threads will need to be drilled and tapped in the two raised bosses in the bearing plate to mount the bracket for the sensor's bracket. An original, ingenious, thoroughly researched and innovative concept invented by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this for use on a small engine. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.)

Information About Converting from a Failed OEM Kohler Breakerless Ignition System to a Custom-Made Battery-Powered Electronic Ignition System or a Battery-Powered Points/Condenser Ignition System | [Top of Page]

The wire that connects from the stator (under the flywheel) to the Kohler Breakerless Ignition Trigger Module or Tecumseh Solid State Ignition Module generates about 250 volts (seriously) while the engine is running at full governed speed. (Seriously; I tested it with an accurate voltmeter.) Do not touch this wire/terminal with one bare hand and the engine/chassis/frame with your other hand while the engine is running! Electrical shock or electrocution could result! This wire is not required with any of A-1 Miller's custom-made flywheel-trigger electronic ignition systems. So snip it off or tape up the terminal.

NOTE: On all Kohler engines with Breakerless Ignition, there is a tiny (3/16") brass cup/expansion cup plug in the points pushrod hole. This is to prevent oil from leaking out the crankcase with Breakerless Ignition. This plug MUST be removed to use the points pushrod when converting to points/condenser ignition. To prevent damage to certain moving parts inside the engine and possible eventual internal engine failure, do not push this plug into the crankcase! It may NOT drain out with the oil either. If it is pushed into the crankcase, the oil pan will need to be removed in order to remove the brass plug. To remove this plug from outside the engine, carefully and gently drill a 7/64" pilot hole through the plug, then use a #6 self-tapping drywall screw (a small ordinary self-tapping screw may not work as well) with small Vise-Grips or a small crowbar or pry bar hooked to the screw to pull the plug out of the hole. Because without drilling the hole first, the self-tapping drywall screw by itself may not be able to bore a hole through the plug without pushing it deeper into the pushrod hole. And do not force the drill bit into the plug or it could get pushed inside the crankcase! Use a new drill bit if necessary. When the plug is removed, a 3/16" drill bit or hand reamer may need to be used to clean out any debris/rust from the pushrod hole. After the points is properly installed, and with the piston positioned at TDC on the compression stroke, set the point gap at .020", or better yet, set the ignition timing at 20º BTDC, and definitely use a copper core/non-resistor spark plug of the correct type gapped at .035".

A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Electronic Ignition Kits (below) for Converting to Flywheel-Trigger Ignition for Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321, K341, K361 that came with points/condenser ignition or Breakerless Ignition. Do away with the old fashioned points and condenser ignition, or defective and cost-prohibitive Breakerless Ignition components, and convert your engine to the reliability, dependability and durability of flywheel-trigger ignition! NOTE: Engine must have the large bearing plate with two mounting bosses to install the triggering device and 9" flywheel with 3/4" wide area with the OEM projection (hump), large bolt head, or install a small screw/bolt (so the sensor can detect it). Must also use an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; for ignition) and momentary push-button switch (to crank the engine) for ignition system below Ê. With this ignition setup, the ignition timing will be set at 20º BTDC, and reuse same type of spark plug, but set gap at .035" for a stronger spark.

Option #1 - Complete Kit to Convert from [a failed] OEM Kohler Breakerless Ignition to the More Reliable A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition System. Designed for Kohler engine models K181, K241, K301 and K321 that originally came with Breakerless Ignition, because these have a large bolt head (early design) or a cast-in projection (hump) on the edge of the flywheel. This ignition system works flawlessly and may outlast the life of the engine. This ignition system requires 12 volts DC negative ground. This high performance ignition system have been thoroughly tested under extreme conditions, and produces a stable and a very strong spark with the use of microelectronics, allowing the engine to start quickly, idle smoothly and rev up at open speed. It will allow the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly, rev up at open RPM with no hesitation or misfire and produce more power. Under most conditions, a high-output/performance coil or the 30,000 volt Bosch blue coil is not needed with this system. With this custom ignition system, the timing will never change. This ignition system may outlast the life of the engine. All replacement ignition parts are readily available. This revolutionizes the ignition system for older cast iron block Kohler engines! NOTE - The OEM key switch for Breakerless Ignition will not work with any battery-powered ignition systems. The switch used with Breakerless Ignition is actually a magneto ignition switch, which when the engine is shut-down, it grounds the self-energizing wire connected to the ignition system. And battery ignition requires a switch that disconnects the coil from the power source (battery). So with this ignition system, you will need either an OFF-ON-START battery-powered ignition key switch, or an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition) and a momentary push button starter switch.. Go here for choice of switches. To install this replacement ignition system; the ignition coil mounts in place of the Breakerless Ignition coil; the proximity cube sensor/bracket mounts in place of the Breakerless Trigger Module; and the GM 4-pin HEI ignition control module with thermal paste (to dissipate normal operating heat) can be fastened on the backside of the bearing plate, on the left side when facing the flywheel, or on an aluminum plate mounted elsewhere with plenty of cool, circulating air to dissipate the heat and cool the unit while in operation. Two 9/64" holes will need to be drilled and tapped to mount the module. Click/tap here to learn how to professionally cut new threads. And if this custom electronic ignition is used in a garden tractor with a longitudinal engine, such as Cub Cadet, Economy Power King, Ford, hydrostatic-drive John Deere, MTD Farm King Model 960, Pennsylvania Panzer, Meteor, Copar, etc., it'll be easier to install if the engine is removed from the tractor. (Sometimes one must improvise when certain parts are obsolete.) This kit has a limited one year warranty. Scroll down to read the wiring connection instructions or click/tap here to print out wiring diagram and wiring connection instructions. This is a thoroughly researched and ingenious concept by Brian Miller. Video of this ignition system installed on a running engine coming soon. Contact Brian Miller for free installation tech support. IMPORTANT: Most failures of a battery-powered ignition coils and/or electronic ignition control modules are caused by either the use of suppression/carbon-core spark plug wire(s), resistor-type spark plug(s), or overcharging of the electrical system due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery. Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging system. Also, any coil will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system. Also, the coil could burn up if the charging system continually overcharge due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or a defective [automotive] battery. List of Parts in Kit Includes: New high output cube-shape 3-wire inductive proximity sensor w/mounting adapter and two Allen head mounting screws w/lock washers. New high quality GM 4-pin HEI electronic ignition control module w/packet of thermal paste and two 8-32 UNC x 5/16" hex head self-threading screws (not self-tapping). One 3/16" and three 1/4" slip-on crimp wire connectors (for module), three 3/16" ring crimp wire connectors (for ignition coil and ground W terminal on module), and two nylon wire clamps (loops) to secure wires in place. New 12 volt canister ignition coil w/mounting bracket/clamp. New 10" or 13" length metal core spark plug wire. IMPORTANT - Due to length of spark plug wire, please indicate if original coil is mounted next to carburetor (10" length) or above starter motor (13" length). New Autolite 216 or Champion 844 (H10C) spark plug. Set spark plug gap at .035" with this system. Installation Instructions: Click/tap here to print out the wiring diagram and installation/wiring connection instructions. Fasten the cube-shape proximity sensor on the two bosses that's on the bearing plate with the supplied Allen head screws and split lock washers. If there are no threaded holes in the bosses, drill with a 5/32" bit, and cut 10-24 UNC threads in the bosses. Route the insulated wires on the sensor through the hole in the bearing plate. Click/tap here to learn how to professionally cut new threads. Mounting of module requires two 9/64" drilled holes. To install module behind bearing plate, use a close quarters power drill or use an ordinary 3/8" power drill with a custom-made 7" length x 3/8" diameter drill bit extension with a 9/64" drilled end hole and two Allen set screws to secure the 9/64" drill bit. (As shown to the right ->.) If engine is equipped with a mechanical fuel pump, it will need to be removed for installation of the module, then reinstalled afterwards. Use the two supplied 8-32 UNC x 5/16" hex head self-threading screws to fasten HEI module with the supplied dielectric grease between the module onto back of bearing plate or an aluminum plate with cool circulating air to dissipate the operating heat. Mounting holes in module body must be grounded to engine/chassis ground (battery negative (–) post). Connect the BLACK wire on the sensor to the [G] terminal on the module. Connect the BLUE wire on the sensor to the [W] terminal on the module and to engine/chassis ground (battery negative (–) post). NOTE: The [W] terminal on the module does not need to be connected to anything, but the blue wire on the proximity sensor must be grounded. Connect the ignition coil negative (–) terminal to the [C] terminal on the module. For competition pulling - if the grounding-type killswitch is used, connect the ungrounded wire from the killswitch to this terminal. Or for a generator engine, connect this terminal with a semiconductor rectifier diode to "excite" or temporarily energize the field windings in the generator. Connect the BROWN wire on the sensor to the [B] terminal on the module, and to the ignition coil positive (+) terminal and to the ignition switch (battery positive (+) post). Turn the ignition switch on to supply power to the coil, and rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand so the magnet passes the module and observe for a strong, "snappy" blue spark at the spark plug's tip. IMPORTANT: Use a new copper core/non-resistor AC Delco, Autolite or Champion spark plug of the correct type gapped at .025" for longer coil life. Use of a resistor type or NGK spark plug will void warranty. The cube-shape proximity sensor has a built-in LED (Light Emitting Diode). If the proximity sensor is wired correctly, the LED will illuminate when in close proximity to the detectable target. Complete Ignition Kit listed above without any switches. (Customer supplies own switches.) $150.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling. Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON toggle/flip ignition switch and momentary push button starter switch.. $165.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling. Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON pull-push ignition switch and momentary push button starter switch.. $165.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling. Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON ignition key switch (for security reasons) and momentary push button starter switch.. $251.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling. Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON-START battery-powered ignition key switch. $165.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling. Please let me know which kit you need and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options. Option #2 - Complete Kit to Convert from [a failed] OEM Kohler Breakerless Ignition OR a Cast Iron Block Briggs & Stratton Engine Magneto Ignition System with Points and Condenser to the More Reliable Battery-Powered Points and Condenser Ignition System with a Full Size Canister 12 Volt Ignition Coil. Designed for Kohler engine models K181, K241, K301, K321 that originally came with Breakerless Ignition. New parts include: 12 volt 3.0 Ohm full size canister ignition coil w/mounting bracket, metal core conductor spark plug wire, medium capacity condenser/capacitor, ignition points, stainless steel points pushrod, points cover, points cover gasket, four 10-24 UNC Phillips head screws w/lock washers, Autolite 216 or Champion 844 (H10C) spark plug, and 12" cut-to-length #16 gauge (AWG) coil-to-points wire w/terminals and points cover/wire grommet. IMPORTANT - Due to length of spark plug wire, please indicate if original coil is mounted next to carburetor (10" length) or above starter gear (13" length). Set spark plug gap at .035" with this system. NOTE - Being this ignition system requires 12 volts DC negative ground, the OEM key switch for Breakerless Ignition will not work with any battery-powered ignition systems. The switch used with Breakerless Ignition is actually a magneto ignition switch, which when the engine is shut-down, it grounds the self-energizing wire connected to the ignition. And battery ignition requires a switch that disconnects the coil from the power source (battery). So with A-1 Miller's ignition system, you will need either an OFF-ON-START battery-powered ignition key switch, or an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition) and a momentary push button starter switch.. Go here for choice of switches. IMPORTANT: Most failures of a battery-powered ignition coils and/or electronic ignition control modules are caused by either the use of suppression/carbon-core spark plug wire(s), resistor-type spark plug(s), or overcharging of the electrical system due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery. Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging system. Also, any coil will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system. Also, the coil could burn up if the charging system continually overcharge due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or a defective [automotive] battery. Complete Ignition Kit listed above without any switches. (Customer supplies own switches.) $93.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling. Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON toggle/flip ignition switch and momentary push button starter switch.. $108.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling. Complete Ignition Kit listed above with an OFF-ON-START battery-powered ignition key switch. $108.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling. Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON ignition key switch and momentary push button starter switch.. $150.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling. Please let me know which kit you need and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options.

Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Return to previous paragraph, section or website] [Top of Page]

3/16" Steel Plug to Replace Kohler Ignition Points Pushrod. Use in Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, K482, K532 and K582 when converting from magneto to solid state ignition (listed above), Magnum solid state ignition, A-1 Miller's flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition (further down in this website). Remove the points cover, ignition points and pushrod, and install this plug in the pushrod hole (to prevent major oil leakage) with a medium size hammer; fits very tight. No need to reinstall cover and points. NOTE: The alternative to using this plug is to remove the ignition points and points pushrod, and place the pushrod on a hard, flat surface, and use a hammer and sharp flat cold chisel to lightly create knurled raised marks midway on the pushrod. Then reinstall the knurled pushrod in the engine block with the hammer. Or a 20 penny common nail cut off to 1/2" length and the end ground to a bevel will serve the same purpose. The knurling will retain the pushrod in the hole. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.) OEM Briggs & Stratton part #'s 231143, 692882. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling. [Return to previous paragraph, section or website]

A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition Conversion Kits for Kohler opposed twin cylinder engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) and KT19 Series II, except generator engines | [Top of Page]

A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit for Kohler opposed twin cylinder engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) and KT19 Series II, and perhaps Magnum engines with the KT-series flywheel installed, except generator engines. These type of ignition system is very reliable, works flawlessly and, may outlast and extend the life of the engine. Replaces points and condenser. This high performance ignition system have been thoroughly tested under extreme conditions, and produces a stable and a very strong spark with the use of microelectronics, even with the stock OEM canister ignition coil, allowing the engine to start quickly, idle smoothly and rev up at open RPM with no hesitation or misfire to produce more power. This revolutionizes the ignition system for the opposed twin cylinder Kohler engines! With points (and condenser) ignition, the factory setting for the timing on these engines is 23º BTDC. Being the points is operated off the camshaft, and being there's slight free-play/clearance between the gear teeth on the camshaft and crankshaft (which is normal), the ignition timing can fluctuate a few degrees, resulting in slight loss of engine power. And sometimes the lobe for the points pushrod on the cam will wear, which will make setting the timing at full 23º BTDC impossible, which will also cause the engine to lose power. (Both of these are confirmed in the official Kohler KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II service manual.) And with a worn points lobe, the entire engine will need to be completely disassembled to replace the camshaft. This custom-made electronic ignition system maintains the timing at 23º BTDC at all times because it operates off the flywheel, which is driven by the crankshaft. With this custom ignition system, the timing will never change. It works the same as crank trigger ignition. The OEM Kohler [4.0 Ohm] opposed twin cylinder canister ignition coil works excellent with this ignition module/sensor to produce a a very strong spark. To prevent burning up the PerTronix Ignitor module, it MUST be used with a coil having a minimum of 3.0 Ohm resistance, and a sturdy, fabricated bracket to prevent timing fluctuations. A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.)

NOTE: If your engine is hard to start, looses power and dies when hot, and restarts when cooled, and repeats this over and over, then chances are, it needs a professional valve job performed and valve clearances reset to factory specs. Because installing electronic ignition will not fix a faulty valve problem. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in having a professional valve job performed on your KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20 cylinders/jugs or entire engine.

Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit below specifically for KT17 first design and KT19 first design engines. Kit includes: New PerTronix Ignitor hall effect module/sensor fastened on adjustable/slotted aluminum mounting plate, two 10-24 UNC screws w/flat washers and lock washers, two aluminum spacers, target screw w/magnet and protective rubber washer (prevents the delicate magnet from possibly breaking when screw is tightened due to the uneven rough casting on the flywheel), two new Autolite 26 spark plugs, and points pushrod hole block-off plate (use with silicone sealant). This ignition system can be used with the OEM off/ignition/start key switch and canister ignition coil. All replacement ignition parts are readily available. And if this custom electronic ignition is used in a garden tractor with a longitudinal engine, such as Cub Cadet, Economy Power King, Ford, hydrostatic-drive John Deere, MTD Farm King Model 960, Pennsylvania Panzer, Meteor, Copar, etc., it'll be easier to install if the engine is removed from the tractor.

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS for KT17 first design and KT19 first design engines. This option can also be used on the KT17 Series II and KT19 Series II engines, and perhaps Magnum engines with the KT-series flywheel installed. Video of this ignition system installed on a running engine coming soon. Scroll down to read the wiring connection instructions or click here to view and print out these installation instructions.

1. Use a Sharpie metallic silver permanent marker to locate and install the trigger screw w/magnet and protective rubber washer on the flat area on the flywheel above the T mark as shown in the photo to the right ->. This will place the ignition timing in alignment with the center of the PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor when the S mark on the flywheel is in exact alignment with the roll pin on the cylinder (which is positioned at 23º BTDC). The screw head is magnetized to trigger the spark. There is no need to remove the flywheel to drill and tap the threads. The screw hole must be professionally drilled and tapped to accept the supplied 6-32 UNC trigger screw. Click here to learn how to professionally cut new threads. To prevent from possibly breaking off drill bit or tap, secure the flywheel so it does not rotate one way or the other while drilling hole and/or cutting threads! NOTE: The rubber washer prevents the high strength but delicate and brittle magnet from possibly breaking when the screw is tightened to the uneven or rough casting on the flywheel. IMPORTANT: To prevent from possibly loosening, secure screw in flywheel or rotating disc with high strength liquid threadlocker (Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent). Tighten screw just when the rubber begin to bulge, and allow the Loctite to dry and harden overnight. The PerTronix Ignitor hall effect module/sensor is activated by the South pole of the magnet, so do not remove the magnet from the screw! FYI - Store a container of liquid threadlocker or Super Glue upright and not laying flat. The capped tip will not dry out and clog when stored upright.
2. Being there are no two bosses on the cooling fins of the #1 cylinder (right side of engine when facing the flywheel) of the KT17 first design and KT19 first design engines, use the side casting of the valve spring compartment on the #1 cylinder facing the flywheel to mount the PerTronix Ignitor mounting plate and two posts/supports. See the [mock up] photo in this section.
3. On the #1 cylinder, remove the crankcase breather assembly and plug the crankcase breather vent hole leading into the crankcase. This will prevent drill cuttings from entering into the crankcase, which could cause severe engine wear overtime.
4. Locate in the general area of the valve spring compartment where to drill and tap two 10-24 UNC screw holes spaced 1" apart (to match adjustment slots in the PerTronix Ignitor mounting plate) with a [preferably] TAPER hand tap for fastening the PerTronix Ignitor mounting plate and two posts/supports. If a T-shape tap wrench is used, there will be no need to remove the flywheel to do this. Click here to learn how to professionally cut new threads. See the [mock up] photo in this section.
5. When the new threads are made, thoroughly clear out the metal cuttings from inside the valve spring compartment with 150± PSI compressed air and an air blow gun nozzle. Failure to do this could cause excessive wear to the internal engine parts! Be sure to use eye protection! Then be sure to remove the plug from the crankcase vent hole.
6. After fastening the PerTronix Ignitor mounting plate and two posts/supports to the side of the valve spring compartment, set the clearance between the module/sensor and trigger screw w/magnet and protective rubber washer at .010"-.050" with a paper, plastic or brass feeler gauge, and securely tighten the two supplied 3/16" screws with lock washers to the valve spring compartment. IMPORTANT: Slowly rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand to check that the screw doesn't make contact with module/sensor. If it makes contact, the module could get damaged! On rare occasions, being the casting of the valve spring compartment may be a different width, the mounting plate itself may make contact with the side of the ring gear on the flywheel. If this happens, a couple of thin washers (shims) will be need to be installed under the two posts/supports to allow for sufficient clearance.
7. Simple two wire connections: Connect the RED wire on the module to the positive [+] terminal on the ignition coil (which connects to the ignition switch and positive (+) battery post), and connect the BLACK wire to the negative (–) terminal on the coil. There are no other wire(s) that connect to the negative (–) terminal on the coil. The module/sensor is grounded through the engine to the negative (–) battery post. IMPORTANT: The module/sensor will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system.
8. Turn the ignition switch on to supply power to the coil, and rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand so the magnet passes the module and observe for a strong, "snappy" blue spark at the spark plug's tip(s). IMPORTANT: Use a new copper core/non-resistor AC Delco, Autolite or Champion spark plug of the correct type gapped at .025" for longer coil life. Use of a resistor type or NGK spark plug will void warranty.
9. Remove the points, pushrod (and condenser) and install the block-off plate to cover the points pushrod hole. Apply RTV silicone sealant to prevent oil leak and use the OEM ignition points mounting screws to secure the block-off plate in place.

• A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition Kit for Kohler engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) and KT19 Series II. $185.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Please let me know if you're interested in purchasing this kit and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options.

Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit below specifically made for KT17 Series II and KT19 Series II engines (and perhaps Magnum engines with the KT-series flywheel installed) includes: New PerTronix Ignitor hall effect module/sensor fastened on aluminum mounting plate and square steel tubing, two 1/4" x 1-1/2" length grade 8 bolts w/lock washers, target screw w/magnet and protective rubber washer (prevents the delicate magnet from possibly breaking when screw is tightened due to the uneven rough casting on the flywheel), two Autolite 26 or Champion 25 (RV17YC) spark plugs, and points pushrod hole block-off plate (use with silicone sealant). Use this ignition system with the OEM off-ignition-start key switch and dual wire ignition coil. All replacement ignition parts are readily available. And if this custom electronic ignition is used in a garden tractor with a longitudinal engine, such as Cub Cadet, Economy Power King, Ford, hydrostatic-drive John Deere, MTD Farm King Model 960, Pennsylvania Panzer, Meteor, Copar, etc., it'll be easier to install if the engine is removed from the tractor.

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS of the module/sensor specifically for KT17 Series II and KT19 Series II engines, (and perhaps Magnum engines with the KT-series flywheel installed) - Video of this ignition system installed on a running engine coming soon. Scroll down to read the wiring connection instructions or click here to view and print out these installation instructions.

1. Use a Sharpie metallic silver permanent marker to locate and install the trigger screw w/magnet and protective rubber washer on the flat area on the flywheel above the T mark as shown in the photo to the right ->. This will place the ignition timing in alignment with the center of the PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor when the S mark on the flywheel is in exact alignment with the roll pin on the cylinder (which is positioned at 23º BTDC). The screw head is magnetized to trigger the spark. There is no need to remove the flywheel to drill and tap the threads. The screw hole must be professionally drilled and tapped to accept the supplied 6-32 UNC trigger screw. Click here to learn how to professionally cut new threads. To prevent breaking off drill bit or tap, secure the flywheel so it does not rotate one way or the other while drilling hole and/or cutting threads! NOTE: The rubber washer prevents the high strength but delicate and brittle magnet from possibly breaking when the screw is tightened to the uneven or rough casting on the flywheel. IMPORTANT: To prevent from possibly loosening, secure screw in flywheel or rotating disc with high strength liquid threadlocker (Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent). Tighten screw just when the rubber begin to bulge, and allow the Loctite to dry and harden overnight. The PerTronix Ignitor hall effect module/sensor is activated by the South pole of the magnet, so do not remove the magnet from the screw! FYI - Store a container of liquid threadlocker or Super Glue upright and not laying flat. The capped tip will not dry out and clog when stored upright.
2. Use the two bosses on the #1 cylinder to mount the bracket with the ignition module/sensor. Being there are no bolt holes in the bosses, the center of each boss must be professionally drilled and tapped to accept the supplied 1/4-20 UNC x 1-1/2" length grade 8 bolts with split lock washers. Click/tap here to learn how to professionally cut new threads. IMPORTANT! Drill only 3/4" deep; do not drill all the way through the cylinder wall! To guarantee the 3/4" depth, use a drill stop (small locking collar) secured at the 3/4" depth. There is no need to remove the flywheel to do this. See the [mock up] animated photo to the right.->
3. After mounting the bracket with the module/sensor, set the clearance between the module/sensor and trigger screw w/magnet and protective rubber washer at .010"-.050" with a paper, plastic or brass feeler gauge, then securely tighten the two 1/4" bolts in the bosses. Slowly rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand to check that the screw doesn't make contact with module/sensor. Do not allow the screw in the flywheel make contact with the module/sensor at any time because it could get damaged!
4. Simple two wire hook-up: contact the RED wire on the module to the positive [+] terminal on the ignition coil, and connect the BLACK wire to the negative (–) terminal on the coil. The module/sensor is grounded through the engine. IMPORTANT - The module/sensor will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system.
5. Turn the ignition switch on to supply power to the coil, and rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand so the magnet passes the module and observe for a strong, "snappy" blue spark at the spark plug's tip(s). IMPORTANT: Use a new copper core/non-resistor AC Delco, Autolite or Champion spark plug of the correct type gapped at .025" for longer coil life. Use of a resistor type or NGK spark plug will void warranty.
6. Remove the points, pushrod (and condenser) and install the block-off plate to cover the points pushrod hole. Apply RTV silicone sealant to prevent oil leak and use the OEM ignition points mounting screws to secure the block-off plate in place.

• A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition Kit for Kohler engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) and KT19 Series II. $185.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Please let me know if you're interested in purchasing this kit and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options.

Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Return to previous paragraph, section or website] [Top of Page]

A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Replacement Electronic Ignition Kit for Tecumseh Cast Iron Block Engines | [Top of Page]

A-1 Miller's Custom-Made, Reliable and Maintenance-Free Replacement Electronic Ignition Kit for Tecumseh engine models VH80, VH100, HH80, HH100, HH120, OH120, OH140, OH150, OH160 and OH180 with a gear starter that have a failed OEM Solid State Ignition Module as shown to the right ->. Fits Tecumseh engine blocks with two bosses with the 2-7/8" bolt hole spacing for the OEM SSI module. This will NOT work on a Tecumseh engine with a starter/generator because there are no protruding pins on the edge of the flywheel to trigger the spark. Works great for lawn & garden, and generator/welder engines! This ignition system works flawlessly and may outlast the life of the engine. This replacement ignition system installs in place of the OEM Tecumseh Solid State Ignition (SSI) module unit and is completely hidden under the flywheel shroud from outside view, with only one wire connection. This high performance ignition system have been thoroughly tested under extreme conditions, and produces a stable and a very strong spark with the use of microelectronics, even with the compact epoxy-encapsulated 12 volt armature ignition coil as shown in the photos, allowing the engine to start quickly, idle smoothly and rev up at open speed. It will allow the engine to start quickly, idle smoothly, rev up at open RPM with no hesitation or misfire. Epoxy molding makes the module/sensor and coil impervious to dirt, oil, grease and moisture. This ignition system may outlast the life of the engine. All replacement ignition parts are readily available. This revolutionizes the ignition system for older cast iron block Tecumseh engines! NOTE - Being this ignition system requires 12 volts DC negative ground, the OEM key switch for the Tecumseh Solid State Ignition (SSI) will not work with any battery-powered ignition systems. The OEM switch used with SSI is actually for magneto ignition, which when the engine is shut-down, it grounds the self-energizing wire connected to the SSI ignition. And battery ignition requires a switch that disconnects the power source from the ignition. So with this ignition system, you will need either an OFF-ON-START battery-powered ignition key switch, or an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition) and a momentary push button starter switch.. Go here for choice of switches. Limited one year warranty. Actual photo of ignition system shown above. Video of this ignition system installed on a running engine coming soon. A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller because nobody else advertise this type of custom-made ignition system. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.) IMPORTANT: Most failures of a battery-powered ignition coils and/or electronic ignition control modules are caused by either the use of suppression/carbon-core spark plug wire(s), resistor-type spark plug(s), or overcharging of the electrical system due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery. Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging system. Also, any coil will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system. Also, the coil could burn up if the charging system continually overcharge due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or a defective [automotive] battery. Replacement Tecumseh Electronic Ignition Kit with PerTronix Ignitor. (Fires off the short pin in the flywheel; remove the long pin. It will not be needed and will interfere with proper operation of the ignition system.) This ignition system requires 12 volts DC negative ground. Includes: new PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor and new high quality, high energy compact epoxy-encapsulated 12 volt armature ignition coil w/integrated metal spark plug wire, both fastened to an aluminum ignition plate, new Autolite 295 or Champion J8C spark plug, new momentary push-button switch (to crank the engine; optional) and new OFF-ON toggle/flip switch/flip switch or [security] key switch (to power the ignition; optional). Installation Instructions for Replacement Tecumseh Electronic Ignition System listed above - Click/tap here to print out the installation and wiring instructions for this system. The PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor detects and fires off ONLY the short pin in the flywheel so the engine will run right and produce full power. Therefore, remove or drive down the long pin until it's flush with the surface of the flywheel. FYI - I've done a lot of research on this and the long pin MUST be absent for this ignition system to work right! Set air gap/clearance between firing pin and module/sensor at .010"-.050" with a paper, plastic or brass (anything non-magnetic) feeler gauge, then securely tighten the mounting fasteners. IMPORTANT - Gently rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand to check to check that the module/sensor does not make contact with the firing pin. Do not allow the module/sensor to make contact with the pin while the engine is running! If necessary, shorten the spark plug wire (don't make it too short!), and install the terminal and spark plug boot. Install terminal first. Make sure the pointed prong on the terminal penetrates the insulation of the wire, or strip a short part of the insulation and bend over the wire to make full connect with the terminal, and use a spark plug wire crimping tool, then apply automotive grease on the spark plug wire and inside boot so it will slide easily on the wire and over the terminal. Set the spark plug gap at .030". Turn the ignition switch on to supply power to the coil, and rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand so the magnet passes the module and observe for a strong, "snappy" blue spark at the spark plug's tip. IMPORTANT: Use a new copper core/non-resistor AC Delco, Autolite or Champion spark plug of the correct type gapped at .025" for longer coil life. Use of a resistor type or NGK spark plug will void warranty. I offer these custom-made electronic ignition kit options: Replacement Tecumseh Electronic Ignition System Kit listed above without any switches. (Customer supplies own switches.) $175.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling. Replacement Tecumseh Electronic Ignition System Kit listed above with OFF-ON toggle/flip ignition switch and momentary push-button switch (to crank engine). $195.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling. Replacement Tecumseh Electronic Ignition System Kit listed above with OFF-ON ignition key switch and momentary push-button switch (to crank engine). $240.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling. Please let me know which kit you need and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options. FYI - I've been to many car races, and truck and tractor pulls through the years, and I've noticed that when most drivers start their engine, they would crank it over first with a push-button switch, then flip the ignition toggle switch on, and the engine would start every time without hesitation. This is because the engine have a fixed and set in the fully advanced ignition timing position with no retard, and is (obviously) high compression. Starting the engine this way prevents it from kicking back, and it prevents damage to the aluminum starter motor housing. - Brian Miller FYI - I've been receiving several emails and phone calls from people who purchased another type of custom-made electronic ignition system from another source online for their Tecumseh cast iron block engines. If you're experiencing problems with this other type of ignition, you will need to complain to the person you purchased it from. Because being I'm not familiar with the design of another person's custom-made ignition system, the advice I may give you to get your engine running right may not be 100% accurate. It'll be like the mechanic of a reputable Chevrolet car dealer/repair shop trying to tell someone how to fix their poor performing Ford vehicle. By the way - I thoroughly researched and test every custom-made electronic ignition system that I offer in my websites on the test engines in my shop to insure that they work flawlessly, and I have not received any complaints from my customers so far. - Brian Miller (Posted 8/24/20)

Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Return to previous paragraph, section or website] [Top of Page]

Custom-Made Reliable and Maintenance-Free Crank-Trigger Electronic Ignition Systems That Operate Off the PTO End of Virtually Any Older General-Use Small Engine or Competition Pulling Small Engine - Eliminates Old-Fashioned Points and Condenser or Troublesome OEM Solid State Ignition

Be Ahead of the Competition with 21st Century Technology Using 100% Reliable Digital Electronic Ignition! Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. [Return to previous paragraph, section or website] [Top of Page]

FYI - I can install any of my custom-made flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition systems on your older small gas engine and/or rewire your lawn & garden tractor, small engine equipment, small motorized vehicle or competition garden pulling tractor so all the electrical accessories will work and if everything else is in good condition with the engine (compression, carburetion, etc.), the engine should start quickly, idle well and rev up to its full potential every time. I have the knowledge, skills, all the tools and parts necessary to perform a professional job. I've rewired many customer's lawn & garden tractors, small engine equipment and competition garden pulling tractors many times with great results. If you're interested, click/tap here for my contact information and directions to A-1 Miller's shop. - Brian Miller

A new way to revolutionize the ignition system on virtually any small gas engine! Virtually trouble- and maintenance-free, and water-proof. These ignition modules/sensors is a small, lightweight, compact and completely self-contained electronic ignition system built with the latest state-of-the-art engineering with the use of microelectronics. Fits entirely on the PTO end of the engine block; no ignition box and additional wiring to clutter the engine compartment because the electronic ignition control module and pickup coil/sensor are contained in the same sealed casing. The DynaTek Dyna S module/sensor produce a stable and a very strong spark and will allow the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly, rev up at open RPM with no hesitation or misfire and it'll produce more power.

These crank-trigger ignition setups have been thoroughly tested and proven very reliable for general lawn & garden use, and all classes of single and twin cylinder competition pulling engines. One module/sensor is needed for an opposed twin cylinder engine, and two modules/sensors spaced exactly at 90º apart is required for V-twin engines. These are the same ignition used by professional pullers everywhere. Reliable at high RPM, the DynaTek Dyna S module/sensor provides unlimited RPM. They allow the ignition system to operate at the speed of electricity, which can be anywhere from about 50% to 99% of the speed of light, depending upon the quality of the electronic components and wiring connections.

Spark occurs when a small magnet embedded in an aluminum locking set screw collar (magnet ring), which is much like an automotive reluctor ring, that's fastened on the crankshaft's PTO end passes the module/sensor. These sensors/modules packs a lot of punch and allows the ignition system operate at 100% efficiency for a stronger spark. When wired correctly, it's normal for the flywheel- and crank-trigger ignition systems to make a spark when first powered up. And if it makes a spark as the sensor passes the metal target object, then the ignition system is working as it should.

The DynaTek Dyna S module/sensor operates with 12-1/2 to 15 volts DC negative ground, and requires an ignition coil with a minimum 3.0 Ohm resistor. Using a coil with less than 3.0 Ohm of primary resistance for a long period of time will cause the module to overheat and the engine may misfire until it cools down, or the module/sensor might fail prematurely. A metal conductor spark plug wire and copper core/non-resistor spark plug should be used. If the voltage drops below the minimum requirement for either module/sensor, the engine may idle well, but not rev up, or the engine may run erratic. Either module/sensor can be used with a standard-output/stock or high-output/performance ignition coil, as long as it has a 3.0 Ohm internal primary resistor, or connected to a ballast resistor, resulting in 3.0 Ohm of resistance.

DynaTek Dyna S Crank-Trigger Electronic Ignition Installation Instructions -

A-1 Miller's universal flat aluminum mounting plate with the DynaTek Dyna S ignition module/sensor kits can be adapted for use on various makes and models of one or two cylinder (twin opposing cylinders) small engines. Being there are so many different bolt patterns on the PTO end of Kohler and other makes and models of small engines, these are not a simple "one kit fits all" bolt-on ignition setup. Therefore, customer will need to locate and drill holes in the mounting plate in alignment with the bolt holes on the PTO end of the engine block. If there are no bolt hole(s) on the PTO end of the block, they will need to be drilled and tapped. Click/tap here to learn how to professionally cut new threads. For strength and durability, a minimum of 1/4" bolts (thread size) should be used to fasten mounting plate to PTO end of engine block. Locate and drill (machine) slotted adjustment holes in the mounting plate. And then drill and cut 4-40 NC threads in the mounting plate to fasten the module/sensor. Air gap/clearance between the module/sensor and locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet is .010"-.050". Module/sensor may not operate or engine may misfire if gap is wider than .060". NOTE: Do not allow module/sensor to make contact with locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet while engine is running! Click HERE for custom-made electronic ignition kits that operate off the flywheel end of the engine. These can be used for ordinary lawn & garden engines or stock competition pulling engines.

DynaTek Dyna S Ignition Kit and Systems for a Single Cylinder Engine listed below. These ignition systems works flawlessly and may outlast the life of the engine. These ignition systems operate off the PTO end of the crankshaft and is mainly for competition pulling engines that have nothing on the PTO end of the crankshaft. NOTE: Slotted mounting holes will be machined in the ignition plate. If the bolt holes in the PTO end of the block don't match the ones in the plate or if bolt holes are not present, then new bolt holes will need to be drilled and tapped in the engine block. Click/tap here to learn how to professionally cut new threads. Can be used on Kohler 10-16hp single or opposed twin cylinder horizontal shaft engines. Set the clearance between the module and locking collar at .010"-.050". IMPORTANT - Gently rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand to check and see that the module does not make contact with the locking collar. Do not allow the module make contact with the locking collar while the engine is running! IMPORTANT - The module will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system.

• Crank Trigger Ignition with the DynaTek Dyna S Module/Sensor Fastened on an Aluminum Mounting Plate, Triggered by an Embedded Magnet in a Locking Set Screw Collar. Requires 12 volts DC negative ground and an ignition coil with minimum 3.0 Ohms resistance. Mounting plate fastens on the PTO end of engine block, and coil mounts remotely on side of flywheel shroud or elsewhere in engine compartment. This high performance ignition system have been thoroughly tested under extreme conditions, and produces a stable and a very strong spark with the use of microelectronics, allowing the engine to start quickly, idle smoothly and rev up at open RPM with no hesitation or misfire to produce more power. Under most conditions, a high-output/performance coil or the 30,000 volt Bosch blue coil is not needed with this system. Ignition coil not included, purchase separately or customer use their own [minimum 3.0 Ohm] ignition coil. Module may burn up if the wrong coil is used. Click here to learn how to test the Ohm resistance of a coil. Set the air gap/clearance between sensor and magnet in locking set screw collar at .010"-.050", and set spark plug gap at .035". IMPORTANT - Connect RED wire to coil positive [+] terminal and to ignition switch (battery positive [+] post), and connect BLACK wire to coil negative [–] terminal. This module/sensor is not diode-protected. It will not burn up instantly if the wires are connected in reverse. Also, this module/sensor will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system. When the ignition unit is installed and wire(s) correctly connected, turn the ignition switch on to supply power to the coil, and rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand so the magnet passes the module and observe for a strong, "snappy" blue spark at the spark plug's tip. IMPORTANT: Use a new copper core/non-resistor AC Delco, Autolite or Champion spark plug of the correct type gapped at .025" for longer coil life. Use of a resistor type or NGK spark plug will void warranty. This ignition setup is shown above. Mounting plate available with 3-1/2" or 4" bolt hole spacing. But customer may have to drill and tap the block to mount the crank-trigger or modify the bracket if necessary. All replacement ignition parts are readily available. Video of this ignition system installed on a running engine coming soon. $100.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling. Please let me know if you're interested in purchasing this kit and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options.

• Self-Contained Crank Trigger Ignition System with the DynaTek Dyna S Module/Sensor Connected to an Incorporated High Energy Ignition Coil, Both Fastened on an Aluminum Mounting Plate, Triggered by an Embedded Magnet in a Locking Set Screw Collar. Requires 12 volts DC negative ground. Thoroughly tested and proven to be very reliable. Self-contained and very compact. The high energy armature ignition coil is fastened above the DynaTek Dyna S module/sensor on the same aluminum ignition plate. This ignition system operates off the PTO end of the engine and is mainly for competition pulling engines that have nothing on the PTO end of the crankshaft. This ignition system "cleans up" the engine compartment. No remotely-mounted coil or extra wiring needed. Can be mounted above or on right side of crankshaft. This high performance ignition system have been thoroughly tested under extreme conditions, and produces a stable and a very strong spark with the use of microelectronics, even with the compact epoxy-encapsulated armature ignition coil, allowing the engine to start quickly, idle smoothly and rev up at open RPM with no hesitation or misfire to produce more power. The DynaTek Dyna S module/sensor is triggered by a small magnet embedded in an aluminum locking set screw collar (magnet ring) that's fastened on the crankshaft. All replacement ignition parts are readily available. Mounting plate available with 3-1/2" or 4" bolt hole spacing. But customer may have to drill and tap the block to mount the crank-trigger or modify the bracket if necessary. Click/tap here to learn how to professionally cut new threads. Simple wiring connections: Connect the RED wire to the ignition switch (which connects to the battery positive (+) post), and connect the BLACK wire to the self-grounding killswitch. The ignition system is grounded to the negative (–) battery post through the engine. IMPORTANT - Connect RED wire to coil positive [+] terminal and to ignition switch (battery positive [+] post), and connect BLACK wire to coil negative [–] terminal. This module/sensor is not diode-protected. It will not burn up instantly if the wires are connected in reverse. Also, this module/sensor will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system. Set the air gap/clearance between sensor and magnet in locking set screw collar at .010"-.050", and set spark plug gap at .035". When the ignition unit is installed and wire(s) correctly connected, turn the ignition switch on to supply power to the coil, and rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand so the magnet passes the module and observe for a strong, "snappy" blue spark at the spark plug's tip. IMPORTANT: Use a new copper core/non-resistor AC Delco, Autolite or Champion spark plug of the correct type gapped at .025" for longer coil life. Use of a resistor type or NGK spark plug will void warranty. Please specify diameter of crankshaft PTO end for locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet. Most common crankshaft PTO end diameters are 1" and 1-1/8", but 3/4", 1-1/4", 1-3/8", 1-7/16" and 1-1/2" are rare. Most billet steel crankshafts have a 1-1/2" diameter PTO end (raised shoulder). Please specify diameter of crankshaft PTO end for locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet. Video of this ignition system installed on a running engine coming soon. A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller because nobody else advertise this type of custom-made ignition system. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.) $200.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling. Please let me know if you're interested in purchasing this kit and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options.

Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Return to previous paragraph, section or website] [Top of Page]

Self-Contained Crank Trigger Electronic Ignition System with an Incorporated High Energy Ignition Coil Fastened on Aluminum Mounting Plate, and Locking Set Screw Collar w/Embedded Magnet for Kohler Engine Models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series II, M18 and M20 Competition Pulling Engines Only -

Self-Contained Crank Trigger Electronic Ignition System with an Incorporated High Energy Ignition Coil Fastened on Aluminum Mounting Plate, and Locking Set Screw Collar w/Embedded Magnet for Kohler Engine Models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series II, M18 and M20 Competition Pulling Engines Only. Powered with 12 volts DC negative ground. Being the aftermarket and OEM Magnum M18 and M20 solid state electronic armature ignition coils will hold up to around 3,600 RPM, when used at higher RPM, the secondary windings within the coil tend to overheat, causing the coil to eventually fail. But this custom-made ignition system allows the engine to rev to its maximum without failing. It works flawlessly and may outlast the life of the engine. It operates off the PTO end of the engine and is mainly for competition pulling engines that have nothing on the PTO end of the crankshaft. The high energy dual-spark plug wire compact armature ignition coil is fastened above the DynaTek Dyna S module on a sturdy aluminum mounting plate; cleans up the engine compartment. IMPORTANT: When ordering, please indicate the bolt hole spacing (measurement) for mounting the angle bracket to the rear closure plate on the PTO end of the engine. Or customer can machine their own adjustable slotted mounting holes. This high performance ignition system have been thoroughly tested under extreme conditions, and produces a stable and a very strong spark with the use of microelectronics, even with the compact armature ignition coil, allowing the engine to start quickly, idle smoothly and rev up at open speed. The DynaTek Dyna S module/sensor is triggered by a small magnet embedded in an aluminum locking set screw collar (magnet ring) that's fastened on the crankshaft. Use this setup for durability when the solid state armature ignition coil keeps failing for no apparent reason. All replacement ignition parts are readily available. Simple one wire hook-up; RED wire on module/sensor connects to 12 volt ignition switch (which connects to the positive (+) battery post). This ignition system is grounded through the engine. Kit includes: DynaTek Dyna S module/sensor and high energy dual wire epoxy-encapsulated armature ignition coil with two molded-in metal core conductor coil-to-spark plug wires and 90º spark plug terminals/boots fastened on aluminum mounting plate, and small magnet embedded in an aluminum locking set screw collar (magnet ring), and new battery ignition Off-Ignition-Start key switch (do not reuse OEM Magnum solid state ignition key switch with this system) or momentary push button starter switch. (to crank the engine), OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition) and fully insulated male and female slip-on spade crimp-type wire connectors (to easily connect/disconnect the ignition system to/from the power source). Remove the OEM solid state armature ignition coil and aluminum bracket. They will serve no purpose with this kit. Use with metal core spark plugs gapped at .030" each. When the ignition unit is installed and wire(s) correctly connected, turn the ignition switch on to supply power to the coil, and rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand so the magnet passes the module and observe for a strong, "snappy" blue spark at the spark plug's tip. IMPORTANT: Use a new copper core/non-resistor AC Delco, Autolite or Champion spark plug of the correct type gapped at .025" for longer coil life. Use of a resistor type or NGK spark plug will void warranty. Coil can withstand high engine vibrations. Please specify diameter of crankshaft PTO end for the locking set screw collar when ordering. Click here to learn how to set the ignition timing on a KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series II, M18 or M20 engine with crank trigger ignition. Video of this ignition system installed on a running engine coming soon. A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller because nobody else advertise this type of custom-made ignition system. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.)

• Crank Trigger Ignition Kit for Kohler engine models KT17 Series II or KT19 Series II. Customer can reuse the original key switch. $200.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
• Crank Trigger Ignition Kit for Kohler Magnum engine models KT17 Series II, KT19 Series II, M18 or M20. Supplied with Off-Ignition-Start battery ignition key switch. $225.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
• Crank Trigger Ignition Kit for Kohler engine models KT17 Series II, KT19 Series II, M18 or M20. Supplied with momentary push button starter switch. and OFF-ON toggle/flip switch. $225.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
• Crank Trigger Ignition Kit for Kohler engine models KT17 Series II, KT19 Series II, M18 or M20. Supplied with momentary push button starter switch. and OFF-ON [security] key switch. $255.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
• Please let me know which kit you need and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options.

Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Return to previous paragraph, section or website] [Top of Page]

Replacement DynaTek Dyna S Module/Sensor. IMPORTANT: Use with minimum 3.0 Ohm coil to prevent burning up module. Click here to learn how to check the Ohms resistance in a coil. Simple wiring instructions: Connect BLACK wire to negative (–) terminal on coil and connect RED wire to positive (+) terminal on coil and to ignition switch (which connects to the positive (+) battery post). IMPORTANT - The module will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system. Use with aluminum locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet (magnet ring; listed below) on PTO end of crankshaft to trigger the spark. $70.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Please let me know if you're interested in purchasing this part and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options.

Aluminum Locking Set Screw Collar w/Embedded Trigger Magnet (Magnet Ring). Use with DynaTek Dyna S or hall effect proximity sensors only. When ordering, please specify diameter of crankshaft PTO end or shaft it's to be mounted on. Most common Kohler crankshaft PTO end diameters are 1", 1-1/8", but 3/4", 1-1/4", 1-3/8", 1-7/16" and 1-1/2" are rare. Most billet steel crankshafts have a 1-1/2" diameter PTO end (raised shoulder). Other sizes available.$30.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Please let me know if you're interested in purchasing this part and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options. [Return to previous section]

Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Return to previous paragraph, section or website] [Top of Page]

How to Test for Spark with the DynaTek Dyna S (or PerTronix Ignitor) Module/Sensors - After either setup is installed on the engine, wired correctly and power is supplied, and with the connected spark plug placed on a grounded metal part of the engine, simply either rotate the (loose) locking collar w/embedded magnet on the crankshaft or rotate the crankshaft with the locking collar w/embedded magnet fastened down back and forth by hand. Each time the embedded magnet passes the module/sensor, spark should occur. If no spark occurs, then either the spark plug is fouled, there's no power going to the coil/module, or the module or coil is defective. NOTE: Do not use a battery charger alone for power to check for spark. Battery chargers constantly switch between high and low voltage at 60 cycles per second, and the module and coil sees this as the ignition being switched on and off, resulting in a continuous array of sparks, even when the magnet does not pass the module/sensor.

The simple way to set the ignition timing STATICALLY (engine not running) for either module/sensor -

1. Rotate the crankshaft by hand to align the timing marks or timing tape on flywheel or starter pulley with the pointer to set the timing where it needs to be.
2. With the locking collar w/embedded magnet loose on the crankshaft, rotate the collar by hand to align the magnet with the center of the module/sensor.
3. Securely tighten the Allen set screw and the engine can now be started.

How to accurately set the ignition timing STATICALLY for the DynaTek Dyna S, PerTronix Ignitor and Inductive 3-Wire Proximity module/sensor - (This is also how to test if the module/sensors or the ignition system is functioning or not.)

1. Connect the wires correctly for either module/sensor as specified above with a fully charged 12 volt battery connected in the circuit. NOTE: Do not use a battery charger alone to perform this test. Battery chargers constantly switch between high and low voltage at 60 cycles per second, and the module sees this as the ignition being switched on and off resulting in a continuous, constant array of sparks.
2. Connect a multimeter [set on the 12 volt reading] or 12 volt test light between the negative (–) coil terminal and engine/chassis ground.
   • For the hall effect Dyna S or Ignitor modules and inductive 3-wire proximity sensor, with the magnet in the locking set screw collar not centered or aligned with the sensor in the module, the light should be off or the multimeter should show no voltage.
   • For the magnetic Ignitor module, with the screw head in the locking ring not centered or aligned with the sensor in the module, the light should illuminate or the multimeter should show approximate battery voltage.
3. Rotate the crankshaft to position the flywheel or starter pulley with the desired timing mark aligned with the timing pointer or indicator on the engine. This is close to where the timing needs to be set.
4. With the Allen set screw loose in the locking ring, again...
   • For the hall effect Dyna S or Ignitor modules and 3-wire inductive proximity sensor, with the magnet in the locking ring centered or aligned with the sensor in the module, the light should illuminate or the multimeter should show approximate battery voltage. It is at this point when spark occurs.
   • For the magnetic Ignitor module, with the screw head in the locking ring centered or aligned with the sensor in the module, the light should be off or the multimeter should show no voltage. It is at this point when spark occurs.
5. Tighten the Allen set screw in the collar on the crankshaft. The ignition timing is now set close to where it needs to be.
6. Something cool to show off: To make a 12 volt in-dash indicator light or LED flash while cranking the engine and illuminate while the engine is running, for the Dyna S, Ignitor modules or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor connected to the HEI, Chrysler or Ford module, connect the light or LED to the negative (–) coil terminal and engine/chassis ground. The LED may shine bright, but the light will be dimly lit. The light or LED will not effect the performance of the ignition system whatsoever. It'll also let you know if the ignition system is working or not.

How to precisely set the ignition timing DYNAMICALLY (engine running) using an automotive inductive timing light for either module/sensor. (This is the most accurate way to set the timing.) NOTE: Timing can be checked, but not set while the engine is running! Do not allow module/sensor to make contact with the locking collar w/embedded magnet while engine is running! -

1. Start the engine, shine the timing light on the timing mark on the flywheel or starter pulley in relation with the pointer on the engine block to see where the timing needs to be set. NOTE: Do not use a battery charger alone to perform this test. Battery chargers constantly switch between high and low voltage at 60 cycles per second, and the module sees this as the ignition being switched on and off resulting in a continuous, constant array of sparks.
2. If the timing is not set correctly, shut off the engine and loosen the Allen set screw in the locking collar, slightly rotate crankshaft by hand one way or the other to advance or retard the timing, and position the collar with the magnet or screw head centered with the sensor in the module, and tighten the Allen set screw.
3. Start the engine again, shine the timing light on the timing mark on the flywheel or starter pulley in relation with the pointer on the engine block to see if the timing is set where it needs to be.
4. Repeat steps 1, 2 and 3 if necessary until the timing is set exactly where it needs to be, and securely tighten the Allen set screw.
5. No further adjustments are required.

3-Wire Inductive and Hall Effect Proximity Sensors | Magnetic Pickup Coils

Magnetic pickup coils and round-shape proximity sensors are very sensitive to mechanical damage (and electrical damage if connected wrong). For magnetic pickup coils, set the air gap/clearance from the detectable target (screw, pin or small raised area on the rotating disc) at .010"-.060" with a brass, plastic, business card, poster board, stainless steel (anything non-magnetic) feeler gauge. And being 3-wire inductive proximity sensors have a farther detection range, set the air gap/clearance at .010"-.188". If the gap is wider than .188" (3/16") with either sensor, the ignition system may not produce a spark or the engine could misfire at higher RPM. To prevent the possibility of an out of time spark occurrence, the detectable target needs to be a minimum of 3/16" higher than or above the circumference surface of a steel or cast iron rotating disc or flywheel. Direct metal contact with either sensor could damage them. When in doubt if a sensor is mechanically damaged, look at the end of it with the strong magnifying glass to see any damage. If it is damaged, it needs to be replaced. A magnetic pickup coil can be tested with a digital multimeter set on 200m DC, with the negative lead of the meter on the white wire of the pickup coil and positive lead on the black wire, then pass a small steel screw or bolt over the end of the magnetic pickup coil. If the meter shows a reading, the pickup coil is in good condition.

Magnetic Pickup Coils for A-1 Miller's flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition. All magnetic pickup coils are Normally Open. Either can be used with the high-output/performance GM 4-pin HEI module w/1.0 Ohm coil, or with the Chrysler or Ford electronic ignition control module/units. Self-generating power. Detects head of small ferrous metal (steel) screw or bolt fastened to rotating disc or flywheel to generate power in magnetic pickup coil. Install screw head extended minimum 3/16" higher than or above the surface of the [cast iron or steel] flywheel to prevent an out of time spark occurrence by the flywheel itself. Wide operating temperature range. epoxy-encapsulated, mechanically rugged. Impervious to dirt, oil and water. No maintenance required. Durable metal shielded threads with two jam nuts. Please specify size when ordering. Can be used with a steel bracket without interference of magnetism. By the way - The magnetic pickup coils below work exactly the same. There is absolutely no difference in performance. Set the air gap/clearance from the detectable target (screw, pin or small raised area on the rotating disc) at .010"-.020" with a brass, plastic, business card, poster board or anything non-magnetic feeler gauge. Click/tap here for wiring diagrams.

• 1/4-28 UNF threads x 11/16" thread length housing, w/two 6" length wire leads. $65.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
• 3/8-24 UNF threads x 1" thread length housing, w/two 7-1/2" length wire leads. $60.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
• 3/8-24 UNF threads x 2-1/4" thread length housing, w/two 6 foot length wire leads. $60.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
• 3/8-24 UNF threads x 3-9/16" thread length housing, w/two 6 foot length wire leads. Replaces discontinued 12mm Kohler part # A-278782. $60.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
• 5/8-18 UNF threads x 2-1/8" thread length housing, w/two 10 foot long wire leads. $50.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
• Please let me know if you're interested in purchasing either of these and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options. [Return to previous paragraph, section or website]

Round 3-Wire Inductive Proximity Sensors listed below for crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger ignition systems or other types of electronic systems. Recommended for use with the GM HEI, Chrysler or Ford electronic ignition control module/units. Wide operating temperature range. epoxy-encapsulated, mechanically rugged. Impervious to dirt, oil and water. No maintenance required. Sensors are capable of powering crank-trigger or flywheel-trigger ignition and digital tachometer at the same time. Durable metal shielded threads with two stainless steel thin jam nuts and three, 10 foot long wire leads. Dimensions of each item below: 15/32" (12mm) diameter x 1-3/8" thread length. Some proximity sensors have an LED (Light Emitting Diode) on the rear of unit. If the proximity sensor is wired incorrectly, the LED will stay on and go off when activated. PNP = Positive/Neutral/Positive. NPN = Neutral/Positive/Neutral. Positive is when connection is made. Neutral is when connection is not made. NOTE: Set air gap/clearance at .010" - .188". Direct metal contact with either sensor will damage them. And if the gap is wider than specified, the engine could misfire at higher RPM. To prevent the possibility of an out of time spark, the detectable target needs to be a minimum of 3/16" higher than or above the circumference surface of a steel or cast iron rotating disc or flywheel. Click/tap here for wiring diagrams. [Return to previous section]

• Normally Closed (NC) NPN Hall Effect Proximity Sensor. Activates (turns on power for ignition module) when in close proximity of a small magnet embedded in an aluminum rotating locking set screw collar, disc, or OEM magnet embedded in a flywheel. $13.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
• Normally Open (NO) PNP Hall Effect Proximity Sensor. Deactivates (turns off power for ignition module) when in close proximity of a magnet embedded in an aluminum rotating locking set screw collar, disc, or OEM magnet embedded in a flywheel. $13.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

• Normally Closed (NC) NPN Inductive Proximity Sensor. Activates (turns on power for ignition module) when in close proximity of a hole or notch in steel disc, or small steel screw [head] installed in a rotating locking set screw collar, disc or flywheel. $13.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
• Normally Open (NO) PNP Inductive Proximity Sensor. Deactivates (turns off power for ignition module) when in close proximity of a hole or notch in steel disc, or small steel screw [head] installed in a rotating locking set screw collar, disc or flywheel. $13.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
• Please let me know if you're interested in purchasing either of these and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options.

Detectable Steel Target Screw w/Magnet and Protective Rubber Washer for Small Engines with A-1 Miller's Custom Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition System with the PerTronix Ignitor Hall Effect Module/Sensor. Head of screw becomes magnetized. Fasten on rotating disc, edge of flywheel or backside of flywheel (in the case of an Onan engine) when using a 3-wire hall effect proximity sensor or PerTronix Ignitor hall effect module/sensor to trigger the spark. 8-32 UNC x 1/2" length hardened steel Phillips head screw. Click/tap here to learn how to professionally cut new threads. Weighs about 1/10 oz. / 2 grams. NOTE: The rubber washer prevents the high strength but delicate and brittle magnet from possibly breaking when the screw is tightened to the uneven or rough casting on the flywheel. IMPORTANT: To prevent from possibly loosening, secure screw in flywheel or rotating disc with high strength liquid threadlocker (Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent). Tighten screw just when the rubber begin to bulge, and allow the Loctite to dry and harden overnight. The PerTronix Ignitor hall effect module/sensor is activated by the South pole of the magnet, so do not remove the magnet from the screw! A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller because nobody else advertise this type of product. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.)

• Hardened 8-32 UNC Screw with Magnet and Rubber Washer. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
• Please let me know if you're interested in purchasing this item and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options.

Detectable Steel Target Screw w/Magnet and Protective Rubber Washer for Tecumseh engine models VH80, VH100, HH80, HH100, HH120, OH120, OH140, OH150, OH160 and OH180 with a gear starter that have a failed OEM Solid State Ignition Module or Other Make and Model of Small Engine with A-1 Miller's Custom Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition System with the DynaTek Dyna S or PerTronix Ignitor Hall Effect Module/Sensor. Head of screw becomes magnetized. To use this part on a Tecumseh engine, remove both firing pins from the flywheel, and install this part in place of the short pin (20º BTDC position). Fasten on rotating disc, edge of flywheel or backside of flywheel (in the case of an Onan engine) when using a 3-wire hall effect proximity sensor or PerTronix Ignitor hall effect module/sensor to trigger the spark. 12-24 UNC x 3/4" length hardened steel Phillips head screw. Click/tap here to learn how to professionally cut new threads. Weighs about 1/10 oz. / 2 grams. NOTE: The rubber washer prevents the high strength but delicate and brittle magnet from possibly breaking when the screw is tightened to the uneven or rough casting on the flywheel. IMPORTANT: To prevent from possibly loosening, secure screw in flywheel or rotating disc with high strength liquid threadlocker (Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent). Tighten screw just when the rubber begin to bulge, and allow the Loctite to dry and harden overnight. The PerTronix Ignitor hall effect module/sensor is activated by the South pole of the magnet, so do not remove the magnet from the screw! A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller because nobody else advertise this type of product. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.)

• Hardened 12-24 UNC Screw with Magnet and Rubber Washer. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
• 12-24 UNC High Speed Steel Hand Tap. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
• Please let me know if you're interested in purchasing this item and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options.

High Quality GM 4-Pin HEI Ignition Control Module w/packet of thermal paste (to dissipate normal operating heat). Use with a high-output hall effect or inductive proximity sensor. Virtually any ignition coil regardless of the internal primary resistor can be used. Best to be used with a metal core conductor coil-to-spark plug wire and copper core/non-resistor spark plug gapped at .030" or .035" (depending on size of coil) for best performance. After thorough research, this particular HEI module that I offer is the only one that will work correctly with the high-output cube-shape proximity sensor to maintain the ignition timing and produce a very strong spark, allowing the engine to start quickly, idle smoothly and rev up at open governed RPM. When mounting the HEI module, always fasten it with thermal paste on a clean, flat aluminum plate with plenty of cool, circulating air to dissipate the heat and cool the unit while in operation. All GM 4-pin HEI modules that I offer for sale have been tested personally by Brian Miller on my Kohler test engine to insure proper operation. Requires one (1) 3/16"/.187"/2.8mm and three (3) #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors. Actual weight of each module: 1.1 oz. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 278903. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Please let me know if you're interested in purchasing this part and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options.

High Quality High-Output/Performance GM 4-Pin HEI Ignition Control Module w/packet of thermal paste (to dissipate the operating heat). This particular module connected to a magnetic pickup coil (below Ê) works excellent with a stock ignition coil that have a maximum 1.0 Ohm internal primary resistor, metal core conductor coil-to-spark plug wire and copper core/non-resistor spark plug gapped at .025, which produce a strong spark, allowing the engine to rev up at open speed. When mounting the HEI module, fasten it with thermal paste on a clean, flat aluminum plate with plenty of cool, circulating air to dissipate the heat and cool the unit while in operation. Requires one (1) 3/16"/.187"/2.8mm and three (3) #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors. Actual weight of each module: 1.1 oz. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 278903. $35.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (Limited supply.) Please let me know if you're interested in purchasing this part and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options.

3/8" Magnetic Pickup Coil w/Adapter Bracket and Mounting Screws to Convert from Breakerless Ignition or Points and Condenser Ignition, and Upgrade to Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition. Fits Kohler K-series K241, K301, K321, K341 and K361 engines with the 9" ring gear flywheel w/projection (hump) or large bolt head on flywheel or 3/4" wide area (to install trigger screw with a minimum 1/4" length aluminum spacer) and large bearing plate with the two bosses for mounting this item, as shown in the photo above. Installs in place of Breakerless Ignition Trigger Module. If threads are not already present, new 10-24 UNC threads will need to be drilled and tapped in the two raised bosses in the bearing plate to mount the bracket for the sensor's bracket. Click/tap here to learn how to professionally cut new threads. For a strong spark, use with a 1.0 Ohm (6 volt) ignition coil, metal core spark plug wire and GM HEI high performance module (listed above), or Ford or Chrysler module (listed below). Set spark plug gap at .025" for a stronger spark. NOTE: Set air gap/clearance from projection (hump) or large bolt head on flywheel at .010"-.060" with a brass, plastic, business card, poster board or anything non-magnetic feeler gauge. Ignition timing will be fixed at 20º BTDC. Click/tap here for wiring diagrams. A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.) $90.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Please let me know if you're interested in purchasing this part and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options.

Now the ordinary/stock GM 4-pin HEI electronic ignition control module lives up to its name, High Energy Ignition! When used on a small engine, in order for an ordinary/stock GM 4-pin HEI module allow the engine rev up at open RPM, it must be used with the high output cube-shape 3-wire inductive proximity sensor, and can be used with virtually any ignition coil, regardless of the Ohm resistance or voltage output. A metal core conductor coil-to-spark plug wire and copper core/non-resistor spark plug should be used to guarantee a stronger spark. Use an Ohm meter to test for the resistance in a spark plug wire. Set spark plug gap at .035". Sensor is capable of powering the GM 4-pin HEI crank-trigger ignition control module and a digital tachometer at the same time. This concept revolutionizes the use of this small, compact and versatile module! This is a thoroughly tested, researched and proven reliable ignition system invented by Brian Miller for ordinary lawn and garden engines and competition pulling engines. And when mounting the HEI module, always fasten it with thermal paste (to dissipate normal operating heat) on a clean, flat aluminum plate with plenty of cool, circulating air to dissipate the heat while in operation. Click/tap here for wiring diagrams. IMPORTANT - The wire that comes from the stator under the flywheel for Kohler Trigger Module or Tecumseh Solid State Electronic Ignition Module generates about 250 volts (serious) while the engine is running at full governed speed. Do not touch this wire (terminal) with one bare hand and the engine itself with your other hand while the engine is running! It is not needed for any of A-1 Miller's crank-trigger ignition systems. So snip off this wire or tape up the terminal to prevent a short circuit or electrocution. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]

• High Quality GM 4-Pin HEI Ignition Control Module. After thorough research, this particular HEI module that I offer is the only one that will work correctly with the high-output cube-shape proximity sensor to maintain the ignition timing and produce a very strong spark, allowing the engine to start quickly, idle smoothly and rev up at open governed RPM. Comes with packet of thermal paste. Actual weight of module: 1.1 oz. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 278903. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
• High Quality Cube-shape 3-Wire Inductive Proximity Sensor Without Mounting Adapter and Screws. Operates with 6-36 volts DC negative ground. Very versatile. This sensor can be used for many applications, ignition or electrical. 59" length cable wire. Customer supplies own screws and fabricates own mounting adapter. $20.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
• High Quality Cube-shape 3-Wire Inductive Proximity Sensor With Mounting Adapter and Screws. $60.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
• Please let me know if you're interested in purchasing either of these and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options.

New High Quality Chrysler / Dodge / Plymouth (MOPAR) Electronic Ignition Control Module/Unit for a custom crank- or flywheel-trigger electronic ignition to use with virtually any small gas engine, automotive, and virtually any gas engine. Requires 12 volts DC negative ground and a minimum 1.2 Ohm ballast resistor to prevent burning up this module. Click/tap here to learn how to check the Ohm resistance in a ballast resistor. This module can be used with the magnetic pickup coil or proximity sensor and virtually any ignition coil, regardless of the Ohm resistance or voltage output, for a very strong spark (even with a stock coil), which will allow the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly, rev up at open RPM with no hesitation or misfire and produce more power. A metal core conductor spark plug wire and copper core/non-resistor spark plug should be used with virtually any ignition system to guarantee a strong spark and from burning up the coil. Click/tap here to learn how to check the Ohm resistance in a spark plug wire. Actual weight of module: 14 oz. Click/tap here for wiring diagrams. $20.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

New 1.6 Ohm Ballast Resistor for use with Chrysler module (listed above) to prevent burning up unit. $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

New High Quality Ford / Mercury / Lincoln Electronic Ignition Control Module/Unit for a custom crank- or flywheel-trigger electronic ignition to use with virtually any small gas engine, automotive, and virtually any gas engine. Requires 12 volts DC negative ground and no ballast resistor. This module can be used with the magnetic pickup coil or proximity sensor and virtually any ignition coil, regardless of the Ohm resistance or voltage output for a very strong spark, and will allow the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly, rev up at open RPM with no hesitation or misfire and produce more power. A metal core conductor spark plug wire and copper core/non-resistor spark plug should be used with virtually any ignition system to guarantee a strong spark and from burning up the coil. Click/tap here to learn how to check the Ohm resistance in a spark plug wire. Actual weight of module: 1 lb. 7 oz. Click/tap here for wiring diagrams. $30.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Please let me know if you're interested in purchasing this part and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options.

High Quality Inductive Wireless Handheld Small Engine Tachometer. A tachometer is required in setting the correct RPM (normally 3,200 or 3,600 maximum for small engines) of an engine to prevent from over-revving and possible damage to the engine or dangerous flywheel explosion. For gas/spark ignite engines only. Works with magneto and battery-powered ignition systems. Very accurate. This handheld analog tachometer works great for checking/setting the RPM on various small engines in the shop, and/or for checking/setting the RPM [tech] on stock governed competition pulling engines. Hold sensor (antenna) close to spark plug wire for reading. Reads up to 5,000 RPM on the low scale, and 15,000 RPM on the high scale. Operates with a self-contained replaceable 9 volt battery. Has built-in battery voltage check. $154.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Please let me know if you're interested in purchasing this item and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options.

Inductive Small Engine Tachometer/Hour Meter with Replaceable Battery. A tachometer is required for monitoring and/or setting the maximum speed of a small engine, which is normally 3,200 or 3,600 RPM, to prevent over-revving and possible damage to the engine or dangerous flywheel explosion. Very accurate. Can be hand-held to temporarily set engine RPM or can be surface-mounted and secured with two screws to monitor engine RPM at all times. Large 3/8 inch LCD display. Works with all spark ignition engines by selecting engine type by programming S1 and S2 buttons. Works with magneto and battery-powered ignition systems. If tachometer does not turn on automatically as soon as engine starts, press and hold the two buttons at the same time. Instructions included. Reads up to 99,999 RPM. Hour meter reads up to 9999:59 hours/minutes. Programmable maintenance hour setting with service icon, a service reminder when to change oil or other maintenance. Can be manually reset to Zero hours. Easy installation: Single wire wraps around spark plug wire and secured with two supplied nylon zip-ties. No wire terminal connections required. Weatherproof construction. Requires CR2450 battery. Dimensions: 2" wide x 1-3/4" depth x 3/4" height. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Please let me know if you're interested in purchasing this item and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options.

High Quality Digital Tachometer/Proximity Sensor Kits. A tachometer is required in setting the correct engine RPM (normally 3,200 or 3,600 maximum, depending on type of carburetor) to prevent from over-revving and possible internal damage or dangerous flywheel explosion. Choice of a RED or BLUE numeric display. Will work with most small engines or multi-cylinder automotive engines, gas or diesel. The great thing about this type of tachometer is that it needs no setup or programming. It displays accurate RPM as soon as the engine cranks over to start. Displays up to 9,999 RPM. Very accurate. Tachometer returns to zero [0000] when engine is shut down. Can be used for lawn & garden equipment or competition pulling engines. Designed to be permanently mounted to monitor engine RPM at all times. Tachometer can be in-dash or panel-mounted. This precision digital tachometer operates with external power and on the same principle as my flywheel- or crank-trigger ignition systems with a proximity sensor to detect the target, which can be a small ferrous steel screw or pin, or magnet in a rotating disc on the crankshaft or on/in flywheel. Operates totally independent of the ignition system, or can be used with crank trigger ignition with the same proximity sensor. Sensor is capable of powering this digital tachometer and crank-trigger ignition control module at the same time, with the exception of using the Dynatek Dyna S or PerTronix Ignitor modules. This tachometer must be wired separately or wiring can be incorporated with my crank-trigger ignition system that use a proximity sensor. A sturdy steel or aluminum bracket will need to be fabricated by customer to mount the sensor in close proximity of the detector/trigger target. Set air gap/clearance at .010"-.188". Tachometer works with 8-24 volts DC, proximity sensor works with 6-36 volts DC. Dimensions for mounting hole for tachometer: 3" wide x 1-17/32" wide. Tachometer measures 1" in depth. Dimensions of proximity sensor: 15/32" diameter x 1-3/8" thread length. Wiring Instructions: #1 wire on tachometer connects to brown wire on proximity sensor and ignition switch (12 volt power), #2 wire on tachometer connects to blue wire on proximity sensor and engine/chassis ground (which connects to the negative (–) battery post), and #5 wire on tachometer connects to black wire on (either) proximity sensor. Wires #3 and #4 connects to nothing. Wiring is the same for the hall effect and inductive proximity sensors. Some proximity sensors have an LED (Light Emitting Diode) on the rear of unit. If the proximity sensor is wired incorrectly, the LED will illuminate within the target. Click/tap here for YouTube videos to see how well this tachometer works. Please let me know if you're interested in purchasing either of the below and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options.

• Tachometer only. Use with virtually any Normally Open 3-wire hall effect, inductive, or cube-shape inductive proximity sensor (w/flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition). $22.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
• Complete Tachometer Kit with Hall Effect Proximity Sensor (dimensions below) and Locking Set Screw Collar w/Embedded Magnet. When ordering, please indicate diameter of crankshaft PTO end for locking collar. $47.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
• Complete Tachometer Kit with Inductive Proximity Sensor (dimensions below). Senses the head of a small steel screw installed in a rotating locking set screw collar, disc or flywheel. $32.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

• Hall Effect Proximity Sensor. Dimensions: 15/32" Diameter x 2-1/2" Length x 43" Cable Length . (Senses the South pole of a small magnet embedded in an aluminum rotating locking set screw collar, disc, or OEM magnet embedded in a flywheel.) $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
• Inductive Proximity Sensor. Dimensions: 15/32" Diameter x 2-1/2" Length x 43" Cable Length Inductive Proximity Sensor. (Senses the head of a small steel screw in a rotating locking set screw collar, disc or flywheel.) $13.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

• Aluminum Locking Set Screw Collar w/Embedded Trigger Magnet (Magnet Ring). Use with DynaTek Dyna S or hall effect proximity sensors only. $30.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
• Steel Locking Set Screw Collar w/Steel Target Screw Head. Use with inductive proximity sensors or magnetic pickup coils. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
• When ordering either locking collar listed above, please specify diameter of crankshaft PTO end or shaft it's to be mounted on. Most common Kohler crankshaft PTO end diameters are 1", 1-1/8", but 3/4", 1-1/4", 1-3/8", 1-7/16" and 1-1/2" are rare. Most billet steel crankshafts have a 1-1/2" diameter PTO end (raised shoulder). Other sizes available.

How to Convert an Automotive Points and Condenser Distributor to the Self-Contained GM 4-Pin HEI Electronic Ignition Distributor for Use on an Older Automobile, Farm Tractor, etc. Engine (Hybrid Ignition System) [Top of Page]

If you have an automotive-type gas engine in an old car, truck, farm tractor, forklift, construction equipment, boat motor, etc., with a worn out or troublesome point ignition distributor, and/or parts are no longer available or if you want to upgrade it to the modern, higher output, trouble- and maintenance-free electronic ignition system, then all the engine will need is a battery-powered, non-computer controlled, self-contained GM 4-pin HEI upper distributor assembly (with the 4-pin electronic ignition control module) and spark plug wires from a 1975-84 General Motors vehicle (Chevrolet, Pontiac, Oldsmobile, Buick, Cadillac or GMC truck) with an L4, L6, V6 or V8 engine. These type of distributors are considered high performance because they produce a a very strong spark (up to 40,000 volts to the spark plugs) with the use of microelectronics for quicker starts, smooth idle, higher RPM for more engine power, and is ideal for use in other makes of engines because the ignition parts are self-contained; the armature ignition coil is located in the distributor cap and the electronic ignition control module is located in the distributor itself. Plus, there's only one 12 volt wire to power the entire HEI distributor ignition system. A Chevy V8 HEI distributor is shown to the right ->. The 4 and 6 cylinder engine distributors look similar. And to get even a stronger spark to the spark plugs without excessive heat buildup in the distributor cap, replace the OEM high resistance factory carbon-material contact bushing (located in the center of the distributor cap, underneath the coil) with the highly conductive MSD Low Resistance Bushing 8412. The MSD part is made of wear-resistant bronze for zero resistance and long wear.

But if there's not enough space on an engine because of a large intake manifold for clearance of the HEI distributor cap, the upper half of a smaller diameter non-computer controlled electronic ignition distributor assembly from various 1974-'85 Ford, Mercury or Lincoln, or various 1972-'89 Chrysler, Dodge or Plymouth (MOPAR) vehicles can be used instead. These type of distributors have a built-in magnetic pickup coil, and a Ford or MOPAR electronic ignition control module with a canister-type ignition coil will need to be used. The coil will need to be mounted away from the exhaust heat in the engine compartment, such as on the firewall. And the spark plug wires that's designed for these distributors will also need to be used. These type of distributors and ignition systems are also considered high performance because with the Ford or MOPAR electronic ignition control module, they produce a a very strong spark (up to 40,000 volts to the spark plugs).

How to Convert the Distributor:

1. Cut off the upper half of the old distributor housing and shaft (discard the upper half). Be sure to cut it close to the distributor head.
2. Cut off the lower half of the 4-pin GM HEI, Ford or MOPAR distributor housing and shaft (discard the lower half). Be sure to cut it far from the distributor head.
3. Machine and adapt the shafts and housings of the lower part of the old distributor onto the upper half of the modern distributor head, and pin the two shafts together (like for shortened automotive axles). Scroll down for information on how to securely pin two shafts together.
4. Connect just one 12 volt wire from the ignition switch to the HEI distributor. And for the Ford or MOPAR ignition systems, connect the wiring as shown above È in this website for the electronic ignition control module and ignition coil.
5. The firing order and ignition timing are set the same as for the old distributor/engine.
6. It'll probably be a lot of work setting it all up, but it'll be worth it in the long run.

How to Securely "Pin" Two Shafts Together:

1. Carefully measure each shaft to the length they need to be, then cut each in half.
2. In a small metal lathe (with a self-centering 3-jaw chuck), on one of the shafts, bore a .375" diameter hole that's .625" (5/8") deep in the end of the shaft that needs to be joined to the other shaft. NOTE: 3/8" is only an example; bore the diameter of the hole to be determined by the outside diameter of the shaft.
3. In the lathe, and on the other shaft, turn down the end of the shaft to .378" diameter (.003" larger than 3/8") with a stub that's .750" (3/4") in length. IMPORTANT - Machine the diameter of the stub .003" larger than the hole in the other shaft so it'll be a press fit with the other shaft with the hole. Be sure to bevel the stub so it'll press in straight and easy into the other shaft.
4. Align the two shafts so the rotor cap will point to the # 1 cylinder on the distributor cap in relation to the drive gear teeth on the end of the shaft when the distributor is installed in the engine.
5. Using a hydraulic press, carefully press the two shafts together. There will be an 1/8" gap for a bead of weld.
6. Thoroughly weld the two shafts together, and grind away any lumps of weld so the shaft will slide in the distributor housing(s) (that have been joined together) without binding.

Click Here for Detailed Illustrated Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back and Self-Propelled Garden Tractor Pulling Sled (Available Soon)

To place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for customer service assistance, and FREE honest and accurate technical support, please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak slowly and clearly). Call in your order or email us a list parts you need. Payment Options. Please call Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone, except holidays. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian on the phone, please be patient and understanding because I stutter.) E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.

A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone, with an appointment on weekends, except holidays. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally purchase parts, or drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine parts, entire engine, transmission, transaxle, entire garden tractor, small motorized vehicle, etc. for repairing and/or rebuilding. Please call, text or email me before coming so I'll be at my shop waiting for your arrival. When you visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with the owner for the best customer service. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. "The road to a [trusted] friend's house (or shop) is never long." Don't sacrifice quality workmanship for distance.[Return To Previous Paragraph, Section or Website]

By the way - As business is booming, we're going to relocate our business later this year at 12091 N. Rt. B, Hallsville, MO 65255 with a bigger, better, fully insulated, heated and air-conditioned building/shop (shouse) so we can provide many more high quality parts and professional services, and hire more help to have our customer's parts orders fulfilled sooner, parts repairs and engine rebuilds performed promptly without delay. We will also provide pick up and delivery service and perform professional repairs for various small engines and lawn & garden equipment! We're also thinking of building competitive garden pulling tractors, and pull-back and self-propelled garden tractor pulling sleds to offer for sale. If you want, ask to be put on our waiting list and we'll contact you when the time comes. Photos during construction of our new building/shop are posted here!

To place an order, please call the number below Ê or send an email with your name, complete and correct postal address and phone number and so I can figure the total with shipping cost and USPS Tracking. For payment options for parts ordered or services performed, or to make a donation to my websites, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge), Western Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram Money Transfers. (If a part for a specific purpose is high-output ordered, your debit/credit card may be charged for the full amount or as a deposit right after your order is placed; please do not send your debit/credit card information in email!) Or you can pay A-1 Miller's through PayPal. (My PayPal account name is my email address. And be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment is for.) If sending a money order, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone number and a description of what the payment is for. My mailing address and phone number are below Ê . I'll make a note of your order, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send the parts to you as soon as I have everything in stock after I receive your payment.

IMPORTANT - When sending your part(s) to A-1 Miller's for rebuilding or repair, package everything securely so the item(s) won't get damaged in shipping and please include a note in the box with your name, mailing address, phone number (in case I have any questions) and a description of what you want done. When shipping heavy parts, it's best to put a slightly smaller box inside a larger box, to double the strength and integrity of the package. Because the clumsy "gorillas" or incompetent and uncaring workers that work for certain delivery services mishandle the heavy packages and don't care. And when the work is completed, I'll either call or email you an invoice with the total including shipping & handling.

Payment Options and We Ship to Canada and Worldwide
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S. territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground or equivalent services. We try to keep our shipping cost to customers within reason. Therefore, we don't ship our products in a fancy-looking package with our company name and/or logo on it because most customers will just toss it in the trash after they remove the contents. And being there is no USPS tracking number outside the US, all I can do is make sure I write your address correctly on the customs form and on your package.

My websites are not set up to process orders and accept payments. Therefore, for payment options, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total amount for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge), Western Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram Money Transfers. If paying with a credit/debit card, please call me at either number below. To make a payment to me through PayPal, please click this link: https://www.paypal.me/PullingTractor. Or to make a payment to me (pullingtractor@aol.com) in the US through the Venmo app, please click this link: venmo.com. Or use Cash App to make a payment to me (pullingtractor@aol.com). And be sure to mention in PayPal, Venmo or Cash App a description of what the payment is for with your full name, postal address, phone number and email address. If sending a money order or cashier's check, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete mailing address, phone number, email address and a description of what the payment is for. I'll make a note of your order when I have all your information, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send everything on your list to you as soon as I have the parts in stock after I receive your payment.

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