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Ignition Solutions for Small Engines and Garden Pulling Tractors

Updated 8/19/17. (Click Refresh to see changes or updates.) Optimized for 1024 x 768 screen resolution. To search for a word or phrase in any of my web sites, with Microsoft Internet Explorer 6.x, or Google Chrome, press CTRL+F to open the Find dialog box. Or scroll down, or click the links below...


Unsportsmanshiplike Conduct.

There's a cheater in every sport, and competition tractor pulling is no different. Honest pullers who ignore the cheater(s) are fools. And when there's prize money involved, a fool and their money are soon parted. Anyway, to make competition pulling a fun and fair sport for the entire family, be protective of your equipment! While at the pulls, keep an eye on your killswitch plug! When a competitive or winning pulling tractor is left unattended, it's been known that certain disgruntled pullers (sore losers ) belonging to various associations/clubs, virtually anywhere and everywhere, will pull a competitor's killswitch plug and toss it out of sight. This is one of the easiest, dishonest and sneaky ways to disable and sabotage a competitor's tractor. All a cheater needs is an opportunity in an attempt to gain an advantage on the track. This is also the fastest way for a pulling association or club to gain a bad reputation and lose honest pullers. (Bad news travels fast.) This type of behavior doesn't happen often, but you need to be prepared if or when it does happen. To be prepared for this unforeseeable extra killswitch plug with you. This kind of dishonest behavior doesn't happen often, but you need to be prepared if or when it does happen. Keep an eye on your carburetor, too! Always try to stay one step ahead of a cheater. Because there's cheaters in every sport, and nobody likes a cheater, not even cheaters themselves! But then again, if the winning tractor is suspected of cheating on the track (illegal fuel, engine, weight, etc.), there's always the protest rule. But only if it's enforced by the pulling association. Remember - cheating is devious theft with a sly smirk. Heck, some pulling associations/clubs vote-in and/or change certain rules in a meeting during the off-season, lock them in for several years, but don't even enforce or follow their own rules during the pulling season! They change their rules so often, they might as well just write them in pencil! Another thing I don't understand is when a [prominent] puller of an association/club ask the president of the club if an illegal part can be used in his engine for pulling, and the president says, "yeah, sure!" But the pulling association/club's sanctioning rules, the very same rules that the members (pullers) of the association/club discussed about and voted-on in a meeting, clearly states in black and white that such a part cannot be used.


Safety First! Fabricating a Killswitch - Top of page

Killswitch ComponentsFirst of all, in order to kill both the [battery-powered] ignition system and electric fuel pump, the tractor will need a heavy duty, "connect the wires yourself" 3-prong electrical plug and receptacle. About 4 feet length of minimum 14 gauge 2-wire double-insulated electrical cord will also be needed. Although ordinary lightweight "lamp cord" will work, double-insulated wire would be more durable to prevent a short. Connect the wires so both the ignition and electric fuel pump circuits will be disabled when the plug is pulled from the receptacle.

Here's how to connect the wires:

  1. Simple Diagram of the Killswitch CircuitInside the plug, connect the two flat terminals together with a short, bare wire. This will complete the circuit to power the ignition and electric fuel pump. Don't run any wires outside the plug. Do not connect any wire to the neutral terminal on the plug or receptacle. This terminal will help keep the receptacle from falling out of the receptacle when pulling.
  2. Securely fasten a steel loop on the end of the plug. (A medium size steel key ring works perfect.)
  3. Connect one end of the wire that comes from the ignition switch (that connects to the battery positive (+) post) to one of the [flat] terminals in the receptacle.
  4. For safety, install an inline fuse holder or circuit breaker close to the ignition switch in case there's a short in the 2-wire cord. To determine the size of fuse or circuit breaker, figure how many amps all the connected electrical accessories draw, then use a fuse or an automatic circuit breaker with an amp rating slightly higher to prevent the fuse from burning out or the circuit breaker from overloading and popping. If a short occurs, the fuse will need to be replaced and the circuit breaker will automatically reset itself. Having a fuse or circuit breaker (and amp gauge if the engine has a charging system) installed is very important to prevent failure of electrical components. By the time you smell something burning or see smoke, it may be too late.
  5. Connect the other end of the [ignition] wire that goes to the positive (+) coil terminal and electric fuel pump to the other [flat] terminal in the receptacle.
  6. Fabricate a secure bracket to mount the receptacle on the rear of the tractor, just above the hitch.
  7. Route the 2-wire cord in a safe manner along the inside of the tractor frame so it will not get pinched, chafed or make contact with the engine/chassis ground. Make sure the cord is routed to prevent it from being wrapped around the driveshaft, too!

Or for a magneto/solid state ignition system or battery-powered ignition system, the "grounding" type of kill switch can be used. This is actually a breakaway safety/kill switch for an ATV, jet ski, boat or trailer. When used with magneto or solid state ignition, with the plunger pulled, it grounds the ignition coil from producing spark. One wire is grounded to engine/chassis ground and the other wire connects to the wire going to the points and condenser/capacitor or the kill terminal on the ignition coil w/integrated module or a remote module. But when used with battery ignition, with the nylon pin pulled, this type of switch do not disconnect power to the ignition coil. Instead, it grounds the negative (–) terminal on the ignition coil. One wire is connected to chassis ground, and the other wire connects to the negative (–) terminal on the ignition coil. (Connects to the same wire going to the points and condenser/capacitor or crank trigger ignition module.) When the nylon pin is pulled out (when pulling), the ignition switch should be immediately turned off to prevent power from continually going to the ignition coil, which can eventually burn it up. On the down side, this type of switch do not disable power to the electric fuel pump on a pulling tractor. The electric fuel pump must be disabled manually by an OFF/ON switch. This breakaway safety switch can be purchased off of eBay for a reasonable price.


Ignition Solutions -

Spark-ignited engines requires a spark to initiate burning of the air-fuel mixture in the combustion chamber. The spark in each cylinder is provided by a spark plug and is actually a flow of electrical current through the air and fuel vapor between the closely spaced electrodes of the spark plug. The resistance of air is very high. Therefore, a 15,000- to 30,000-volt potential across the gap is used to fire the plug. Typically, the ignition system must supply this high voltage from a 12 volt power source, such as a storage battery. Moreover, the spark must begin at the proper point in the cycle and must be of sufficient duration.

Whenever a manufacturer wants to sell their latest fancy ignition system, they run a bench test that shows that their unit puts out more voltage than the other guy's. If you read enough ads with claims of extremely high available voltage, you may begin to think that voltage is the only thing necessary to make an ignition system the best in the world. After all, if ignition "A" puts out more voltage than ignition "B", the one you would want is "A", right? Sorry, but that isn't necessarily so. Ignition "A" may put out more voltage, but is it more mechanically dependable than ignition "B"? Did you know that 90% of ignition failures are mechanical, and not electrical? Blame burnt or dirty points, defective condenser/capacitor, defective switch(es), broken or chaffed wires, loose screws or connectors, slipped timing, worn hinge pin hole in points, etc. Apply lubricating grease on the hinge pin before installing points so the hole will last longer. When it's dry, it'll wear prematurely, effecting ignition timing, resulting in loss of engine power. By the way - whenever a condenser/capacitor becomes defective or gets weak, the engine may idle well, but hesitate to accelerate, or if it did accelerate, it may run very erratic. Click here to hear what an engine with a defective condenser/capacitor sounds like. For the record, "condenser" is an age old term, and "capacitor" is a newer term for the same device. Ignition capacitors are still commonly called condensers. NOTE: If an engine idles well, but runs erratically above idle, like it hits and misses, pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs a new condenser/capacitor. And always install a condenser/capacitor with the wire or terminal facing down so rain water and/or when washing off engine, water will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it. Click here to hear what an engine with a faulty condenser/capacitor sounds like.

The importance of extremely high secondary voltage for more performance have been somewhat overplayed. An ignition system, regardless of type, produces only enough voltage necessary to jump the spark plug gap and ignite the air/fuel mixture. In perfect condition, a good spark plug wire and spark plug with a gap of .035" can't handle much more than 32,000 volts. If an ignition could produce more than that, then the extra voltage would escape through a leaking spark plug wire, a small crack in the ignition coil tower, etc. Besides, an average engine simply just doesn't need that much voltage. In most cases, an average engine simply don't need a high-output/performance (40,000 volt) low saturation ignition coil. If a plug require only 10,000 volts to jump its gap, then a "Super Coil" that's advertised to produce 40,000 volts will produce just 10,000 volts for that same plug under the same conditions. An ignition coil advertised to produce 40,000 volts may have the potential to do it, but unless everything is in excellent condition, only a fraction of that voltage would reach the spark plug.

As a spark plug's electrodes wear, its gap increases, so more voltage is required from the ignition coil before the spark is able to jump across the gap. If uncorrected, the gap eventually increases to the point where the plug requires more voltage than the coil can produce. However, a high-output/performance low saturation ignition coil would probably be able to fire the worn plug. Did you know that most stock ignition coils will produce enough voltage to jump a gap of up to 3/4 of an inch? Of course, no spark plug electrode will ever wear that wide. Therefore, the use of a high-output/performance low saturation ignition coil really isn't necessary, except in extreme high compression, alcohol-burning engines.


What Exactly is Coil Saturation? (Added 4/6/17)

Basically speaking, full coil saturation is when the points and condenser (or two condensers) or electronic ignition control module/unit (ICU) can deliver more voltage to the coil so it will produce a stronger spark. While electricity itself moves extremely fast, it takes time for the changing magnetic fields in a coil to develop the full potential current and voltage. In other words, electricity moves much faster than magnetism. This is a way of saying that the induced voltage (stepped up voltage) does not develop instantaneously. To keep things simple, think of the coil as an energy storage device that can be "charged up" and "discharged" in a manner similar to a battery. It takes time for the magnetic field of the secondary windings in the coil to "charge" to its full potential, a condition that is called coil saturation. Similarly, it takes time for the coil to discharge some quantity of its electrical energy as it fires a spark plug. It takes more voltage from a condenser/capacitor or virtually any electronic ignition control unit (ICU) through the primary windings within the coil to make the magnetic field stronger to produce more voltage for the secondary windings to fire the spark plug(s) at higher RPM. This allows an engine accelerate at higher RPM. When maximum current flow is present in a winding, a maximum magnetic field is present and the coil winding is considered saturated. Saturation of the primary windings only occurs if the ignition primary switching device provides a ground path long enough to allow maximum current flow (5.5 amps maximum). If a low capacity condenser/capacitor or standard ICU is used, insufficient amount of magnetic field will be induced in the secondary winds, and the engine may idle well, but as it accelerates, due to the higher compression [as the throttle plate is opened more], the (weak) spark at the spark plug's tip literally gets "blown out", and the engine fails to accelerate. Due to coil saturation, certain coils require two standard capacity [Kohler] condensers/capacitors, or one high capacity/performance condenser/capacitor to absorb the full saturation (voltage) of the primary windings within the coil. Go here for more information: Saturation (magnetic). Return to previous paragraph, section or website.


In most cases, if an engine is kept in perfect tune, the factory stock ignition system provides more than enough voltage for the average garden pulling tractor. Most conventional stock ignitions are designed to provide a strong spark up to a relatively low engine speed. With Kohler engines running in modified form, they will get up as high as 9,000 RPM. But at high RPM or wide open throttle with the points system, the points open and close so quickly that the coil's primary winding has less time to absorb voltage. This means the condenser/capacitor doesn't have enough time to rebuild the capacitance discharge. As a result, with the stock system, secondary voltage to the plug decreases and the engine won't run to full speed (wide open throttle) or it may sputter just when victory is in sight. However, for most garden pulling tractors, a stock ignition system that's in good condition will provide plenty of spark. NOTE: If an engine idles well, but runs erratically above idle, like it hits and misses, pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs a new condenser/capacitor. And always install a condenser/capacitor with the wire or terminal facing down so rain water and/or when washing off engine, water will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it. Click here to hear what an engine with a faulty condenser/capacitor sounds like.


There are 5 types of ignition systems that's used on all small gas engines, rather if it's a 2- or 4-cycle engine:

  1. Magneto Ignition is a self-energizing system with mechanically-operated contact points. It has breaker points, a condenser/capacitor and an ignition coil that generates it's own electrical power to produce the spark every time a magnet in the flywheel or rotor w/magnet pass the coil. The ignition timing for the magneto ignition is the same as for the battery ignition. It's set or adjusted by widening or narrowing the gap of the breaker points. This advances or retards the ignition timing. With the engine not running, use an ohmmeter (d) (make sure the battery is fully charged) or a battery-powered test light in the points only (the points will act as a switch) or an automotive strobe timing light (with the engine running) to set the ignition timing on a magneto system, but a 12 volt battery must be available to power the timing light. The timing light connects to the battery and spark plug wire. Because of their compactness and no need for an outside power source, magneto ignition is very popular on virtually all small engine equipment. Such as gas-powered string trimmers, chainsaws, lawn mowers, garden tillers, go-karts, riding mowers, lawn tractors, lawn & garden tractor and small construction equipment engines. How magneto coils produce a spark.
    • NOTE: Most cast iron block and various [bigger] aluminum block air-cooled small gas engines having an obsolete magneto ignition system with points and condenser/capacitor can be easily converted to battery ignition. All that's required is a condenser/capacitor that's designed for battery ignition (automotive or Kohler), a 12 volt automotive-type ignition coil with a bracket, an external ballast resistor (normally white ceramic block 3 to 4 inches long), if the coil requires one, a spark plug wire with terminals and boots, a 12 volt battery and wiring/connectors. The same ignition points and spark plug can be used. Due to the higher output automotive coil, the spark plug gap can be set at .035" for a stronger spark. Also, the key-operated [magneto] ignition/starter switch will need to be changed to an automotive-type switch that's designed for battery ignition. Or, an OFF/ON toggle- or key-switch to power the ignition and a push-button switch to energize the solenoid/starter motor can be used instead. And with battery ignition, the engine will need a reliable charging system to keep the battery fully charged to crank the engine and so the ignition will produce a strong spark. When converting to battery ignition, remove or disconnect the magneto coil and condenser/capacitor first. Please click here if you need a kit to convert an engine to the battery ignition system.
    • And the reason battery ignition can't be used on the smaller aluminum block Briggs & Stratton engines is because the [B&S] condenser/capacitor is part of the ignition points. For battery ignition to work, the wire on the [battery] condenser/capacitor must be connected to the negative (–) post on the [battery-type] ignition coil, and the body of the condenser/capacitor must be grounded to the engine. Therefore, if the condenser/capacitor is separate from the points, it should work. For a hot and reliable spark on the smaller aluminum block Briggs & Stratton engines with the condenser/capacitor as part of the points, install a Briggs & Stratton's Magnetron™ Solid State ModuleB&S's Magnetron™ electronic ignition module (only for two-post coils), or a universal electronic transistorized ignition module (for two- or three-armature coils).
      • NOTE: Sometimes the Magnetron™ module require that the magnets in the flywheel be re-polarized by Briggs & Stratton to get a spark. But the universal electronic transistorized ignition modules doesn't require that the flywheel magnets be re-polarized. If a spark doesn't occur with the two wires connected to either module, just simply reverse the wires, then it should spark. Magnetron™ doesn't work this way.
      • On engines with a magneto ignition, I believe the best thing to do is install one a universal electronic transistorized ignition module and your ignition problems should be no more. Because sometimes I too, have a hard time with points and condenser/capacitor trying to get a spark from various Kohler engines with magneto ignition. Sometimes I have to set the points as close as .015" just to get a spark. But this makes the timing so retarded, the engine lacks power. So I remove the points and condenser/capacitor, plug the points plunger hole, and install a universal electronic transistorized ignition module. The engine then has a strong spark, starts quicker and produces a lot more power. The module puts the timing right where it needs to be. I always get a good spark with battery ignition. But magneto ignition with points and condenser/capacitor can sometimes be difficult to get a spark and get the timing set right. I think it's due to a worn points lobe on the camshaft.
  2. Solid State Electronic Ignition is a 100% digital system and requires no mechanical or physical contact to activate any moving parts. It operates on the same general principle as the magneto system but do not use breaker points to time the spark and a conventional condenser/capacitor. Instead, a trigger module containing solid state electronics performs the same function as the breaker points. Because there are no breaker points in this system, there are no requirements for ignition timing (on a small engine). Like magneto ignition, solid state ignition is self-energizing. Therefore, it does not require an outside electrical source, such as a battery. Solid state ignition is pretty much maintenance free, with very few parts to wear out or become defective. Solid state ignition is used on virtually all small engines built from 1982 to present date.
  3. Kohler Breakerless Ignition (and Tecumseh Cast Iron Block Engine Solid State Ignition) are also a 100% digital system and requires no mechanical or physical contact to activate any moving parts. It operates basically on the same general principle as crank trigger ignition. Breakerless Ignition is Kohler's version of a crank trigger ignition system as described further down in this website. A trigger module containing solid state electronics performs the same function as the breaker points. Because there are no breaker points in this system, there are no requirements for ignition timing. The Module Sensor, as part of the Breakerless Ignition system, is energized by two windings on the charging stator under the flywheel. Breakerless Ignition is pretty much maintenance free, with very few parts to wear out or become defective. But when it does fail, OEM replacement parts can be very expensive. My custom-made crank trigger ignition kits can replace a defective Breakerless Ignition system for a fraction of the cost of OEM Kohler parts. IMPORTANT: The wire that comes from the stator under the flywheel for Kohler Trigger Module or Tecumseh Solid State Ignition Module generates about 250 volts while the engine is running at full governored speed (serious). Do not touch this wire (terminal) with one bare hand and the engine itself with your other hand while the engine is running! It is not needed for any of my crank trigger ignition systems. So snip off this wire or tape up the terminal to prevent a short circuit or electrocution.
  4. Transistorized Ignition with breaker points is a combination of an analog and digital system. This is known as the PointSaver. It produces a strong spark, allows the ignition points to last longer, perhaps the life of the engine, and it requires no condenser/capacitor. It requires a 12 volt source (battery) to power the system. Ford Motor Company's transistorized ignition system was originally offered on various Ford vehicles from 1965 to 1972, which is no longer available. MSD Performance also offers a transistorized breaker point ignition module that allows the points to last longer. Go here to construct your own transistorized point ignition module: Simple Transistorized Ignition Retrofit for Old Cars.pdf or Build_Your_Own_Electronic_Ignition.pdf. (Each link requires Adobe Acrobat Reader and use Google Chrome web browser for a faster download.) Two things to take into consideration about using a transistorized breaker point ignition system is if an engine sits for a long period of time, the points contacts may become oxidized because there's not enough "spark" or electrical current going between the contacts to burn away the oxidation. Another drawback is being the transistorized breaker point ignition system requires operation of the ignition points, if the [Kohler] points lobe on the camshaft is worn or becomes worn overtime, this would retard the ignition timing severely, resulting in loss of engine power. There is no way to avoid this on a Kohler engine except install a flared end points pushrod or thread a stainless steel nut on one end of the OEM points pushrod. The flared end or nut makes contact with the sides of the worn points lobe on the camshaft. And the entire engine must be completely disassembled so the flared end points pushrod or nut-on-points-pushrod can be installed from inside the crankcase.
  5. Battery Ignition is an electrically-powered analog system with mechanically-operated contact points. It uses breaker points, and a different type of condenser/capacitor than magneto ignition, and an ignition coil that requires a 12 volt source (battery) to power the system. Battery ignition is used on most older garden tractors, farm tractors and virtually all older (pre-1974) automobiles.
  6. Maintenance-Free Crank Trigger Electronic Ignition is a 100% digital system and requires no mechanical or physical contact to activate any moving parts. It's a combination of the breakerless and battery ignition because it has no breaker points or condenser/capacitor but does require a 12 volt source (battery) to power the ignition coil and an electronic ignition control module/unit (ICU) . Virtually all large engines (farm tractors and automobiles) that's built from the mid-1970s use crank trigger electronic ignition or a system similar to crank trigger electronic ignition. FYI - The electronic ignition control modules that's mentioned in this website are designed for older automobiles with a mechanical timing advance (flyweights) built into the distributor. The newer control modules that retards and advances the ignition timing use multiple sensors, one to tell the module that the engine isn't running. Therefore, it retards the timing (at TDC) so the engine will start easier. And another sensor to send the signal that the engine is running, and then another sensor to advance the timing (several degrees BTDC) so the engine will produce full power. The distributor for these don't have (or require) mechanical timing flyweights.

By the way - it's best to use a quality-made automotive battery in a pulling tractor that have its own starter motor, but no charging system. Not only because an automotive battery holds a charge longer to crank even the toughest engine after several pulls, they can provide plenty of power to a battery-powered ignition system for a stronger spark.


Information about Ignition Coils -

Some ignition coils have an internal resistor, while others rely on an external ballast resistor (normally white ceramic block 3 to 4 inches long) or a resistor wire (in the wiring circuit) to limit the current flowing through the primary windings within the coil from the 12-volt power source. Various standard-output ignition coils and most high-output/performance low saturation ignition coils require a minimum 1.5 ohm ballast resistor (originally came on all 1955-57 General Motors vehicles, all 1953-85 Chrysler, Plymouth and Dodge vehicles, various 1956-75 Ford vehicles, including various makes and models of other older vehicles) or a GM or Ford full-length ignition resistor wire when used with a points and condenser/capacitor ignition system to prevent excessive burning of the points contacts. The special 1.4± ohm voltage-reducing wire came on all 1958-74 GM vehicles and various 1969-91 Ford vehicles, and connects between the ignition terminal on the fuse block to the positive (+) coil terminal. A ballast resistor or ignition resistor wire is basically a voltage reducer that reduces 12 volts down to anywhere between 8 to 10-1/2 volts, depending on the load. But if a coil reads "12 VOLTS" on its casing, then it has a built-in resistor.

According to the extensive research I've done, the ohms primary resistance of the internal resistor in most common canister-type ignition coils are as follows: 6 volt automotive/farm tractor coil used with points and condenser: 1.0 ohm; standard-output single post 12 volt small engine coil used with points and condenser: 3.0 ohm; standard-output single post 12 volt automotive/farm tractor coil used with points and condenser: 1.5 ohms; high-output/performance low saturation single post 12 volt automotive coils used with electronic ignition: 0.4, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 1.5 or 3.0 ohms; dual post twin cylinder small engine coils used with points and condenser: 3.0, 4.0 or 5.0 ohms. And most common ballast resistors used for ignition systems come in: 0.8, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6 and 1.8 ohms. Keep in mind when checking a coil or ballast resistor, the ohms resistance can vary more or less (±) by 1.0 ohm.

A ballast resistor may not be needed with many new coils because most of them nowadays have an internal resistor. But with crank trigger electronic ignition, a coil without an internal resistor, rather if it's a standard-output or high-output/performance low saturation coil, is required to produce full volts to the spark plug. And using a resistor effects the voltage output of the coil very little. It only prevents premature burning of the ignition points contacts. The reason manufacturers don't install a resistor inside some high-output/performance low saturation ignition coils is because these coils draw more amps from the battery or charging system. This cause the resistor to operate at a higher temperature, which could overheat and damage the windings within the coil. If a high-output/performance low saturation ignition coil is preferred, when purchasing one, be sure to ask the salesperson if it have an internal resistor or if it requires an external resistor. This is important for the life of the ignition points. The absence of the resistor will, without a doubt, increase voltage to the spark plugs, and will likely reduce the life of the points in a mechanical points ignition system. The plastic lever that one half of the points contacts is fasten to could also melt or become deformed due to the excessive heat from the high voltage going through the points in absence of a ballast resistor. This especially happens when a GM DIS (Distributorless Ignition System) coil or a 6 volt coil is used in a 12 volt system without a 1.6 ohm ballast resistor connected to reduce the voltage. And a high-output/performance low saturation ignition coil has no effect whatsoever with crank trigger electronic ignition when using a GM HEI (High Energy Ignition) 4-pin, Chrysler (w/ballast resistor) or Ford electronic ignition control module/unit (ICU) . But the Chrysler control module requires a ballast resistor to prevent from burning up. Also, most stock coils produce more than enough voltage when used with even the hottest high performance engines, especially with crank trigger electronic ignition.


E3 Spark Plugs -

When using E3 spark plugs, for a stronger spark, use the copper core E3 spark plug(s), index it/them with the open gap toward the center of the piston, and use a 1.6 ohm ballast resistor so the points will last longer, and use a high capacity/performance condenser/capacitor with the high-output/performance low saturation ignition coil to get a stronger spark.


Checking for Spark -

Basically, when checking for spark, remove the spark plug, reattach the spark plug wire on the plug, place the plug on the sheet metal of the engine, then crank the engine and observe for spark. If the spark plug has a snappy-sounding strong blue spark, the plug and ignition system is in good condition. (FYI - The blue color is burning of hydrogen gas in the atmosphere, and the snapping sound is breaking of the sound barrier or a tiny "sonic boom" released from the rapid burning of the hydrogen gas.) If the spark is red or white, the plug is fouled. If there's no spark, try a new spark plug. If there's still no spark, check the points for cleanliness and correct gap. NOTE: Do not use a battery charger alone to perform this test. Battery chargers constantly switch between high and low voltage at 60 cycles per second, and the module sees this as the ignition being switched on and off resulting in a continuous, constant array of sparks.

With that said, a simple way to check for spark with battery ignition, having points and condenser/capacitor, is to connect a jumper wire from the positive (+) coil terminal to the battery positive (+) post, then either crank the engine, or with the points in the closed position, open and close them manually and with the spark plug grounded on a metal part of the engine or equipment, observe for an snappy-sounding strong blue spark at the spark plug's tip. (FYI - The blue color is burning of hydrogen gas in the atmosphere, and the snapping sound is breaking of the sound barrier or a tiny "sonic boom" released from the rapid burning of the hydrogen gas.) If there's no spark, then either the spark plug is fouled, the points are burnt or dirty, or the coil or condenser/capacitor is defective. If the spark plug is fouled, the engine may not start, or it may idle well, but stall when revved up. NOTE: If an engine idles well, but runs erratically above idle, like it hits and misses, pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs a new condenser/capacitor. And always install a condenser/capacitor with the wire or terminal facing down so rain water and/or when washing off engine, water will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it. Click here to hear what an engine with a faulty condenser/capacitor sounds like.


No Spark Situation -

Solid State Ignition -

  1. Remove and test the original spark plug in the engine for spark. Place the spark plug body on a metal engine part, and when cranking the engine, if there's a red or white spark at the spark plug's tip, then the spark plug is definitely fouled. But if no spark, then the spark plug may or may not be fouled.
  2. Use a new spark plug or spark tester to check for spark. The new spark plug should have a snappy-sounding strong blue spark. (FYI - The blue color is burning of hydrogen gas in the atmosphere, and the snapping sound is breaking of the sound barrier or a tiny "sonic boom" released from the rapid burning of the hydrogen gas.)
  3. If no spark, check the condition of the ignition wiring, ignition switch, safety switches and for correct or faulty connections.
  4. If still no spark, check that the kill wire coming from the coil/module isn't grounded.
  5. If still no spark, check if the magnet on the flywheel is cracked. If it is, then the flywheel will need to be replaced.
  6. If still no spark, the solid state ignition coil may need replacing.

Magneto Points and Condenser/Capacitor Ignition System -

  1. Remove and check the original spark plug in the engine for spark. Place the spark plug body on a metal engine part, and when cranking the engine, if there's a red or white spark at the spark plug's tip, then the spark plug is definitely fouled. But if no spark, then the spark plug may or may not be fouled.
  2. Use a new spark plug or spark tester to check for spark. The new spark plug should have a snappy-sounding strong blue spark. (FYI - The blue color is burning of hydrogen gas in the atmosphere, and the snapping sound is breaking of the sound barrier or a tiny "sonic boom" released from the rapid burning of the hydrogen gas.)
  3. If no spark, check for a sheared aluminum flywheel key. Install new key if sheared.
  4. If still no spark, check the condition of the ignition wiring, ignition switch, safety switches and for correct or faulty connections.
  5. If still no spark, check if the magnet on the flywheel is cracked. If it is, then the flywheel will need to be replaced.
  6. If still no spark, clean the points contacts with a steel fingernail file or an ignition points file or replace the points if excessively worn or burnt. FYI - Do not use sandpaper or emery cloth to clean points contacts! These will leave a gritty residue between the contacts, causing a faulty connection. A thin, steel points file or steel fingernail file is the only way to thoroughly remove any debris or oxidation from points contacts. Then use electrical contact cleaner, brake cleaner or cleaning solvent (paint thinner) and 150± psi compressed air to clean any oil and metal filings from the points contacts.
  7. If still no spark, check that the points gap is set at .020" with a feeler gauge, or the ignition timing is set at 20º BTDC. In rare cases, when cranking the engine and the points don't open enough or don't open at all, the points lobe on the camshaft may be excessively worn.
  8. If still no spark, check that the condenser/capacitor is connected to the same wire coming from the coil to the points.
  9. If still no spark, check that the coil's ground wire is connected to engine/chassis ground.
  10. If still no spark, the points, condenser/capacitor, spark plug, spark plug wire or coil may need replacing.

Battery-Powered Points and Condenser/Capacitor Ignition System -

  1. Remove and test the original spark plug in the engine for spark. Place the spark plug body on a metal engine part, and when cranking the engine, if there's a red or white spark at the spark plug's tip, then the spark plug is definitely fouled. But if no spark, then the spark plug may or may not be fouled.
  2. Use a new spark plug or spark tester to check for spark. The new spark plug should have a snappy-sounding strong blue spark. (FYI - The blue color is burning of hydrogen gas in the atmosphere, and the snapping sound is a breaking of the sound barrier or a tiny "sonic boom" released from the rapid burning of the hydrogen gas.)
  3. If no spark, check the condition of the ignition wiring, ignition switch, safety switches and for correct or faulty connections.
  4. If still no spark, check if there's full 12 volts going to the coil.
  5. If still no spark, clean the points contacts with a steel fingernail file or an ignition points file, or replace the points if excessively worn or burnt. FYI - Do not use sandpaper or emery cloth to clean points contacts! These will leave a gritty residue between the contacts, causing a faulty connection. A thin, steel points file or steel fingernail file is the only way to thoroughly remove any debris or oxidation from points contacts. Then use electrical contact cleaner, brake cleaner or cleaning solvent (paint thinner) and 150± psi compressed air to clean any oil and metal filings from the points contacts.
  6. If still no spark, check that the points gap is set at .020" with a feeler gauge, or the ignition timing is set at 20º BTDC. In rare cases, when cranking the engine and the points don't open enough or don't open at all, the points lobe on the camshaft may be excessively worn.
  7. If still no spark, check that the condenser/capacitor is connected to the same wire coming from the coil to the points.
  8. If still no spark, the points, condenser/capacitor, spark plug, spark plug wire or coil may need replacing.


How to Test an Ignition Coil to Find if it's in Good Condition to Produce a Strong Spark - (Updated 4/7/17)

One way to test the secondary windings within a coil to find if it's in good condition is with a digital multimeter (DMM, DVOM) set on the 200 ohms (d) reading. (This procedure is similar to testing for the ohms primary resistance in a coil.) IMPORTANT: Make sure the battery is fully charged and the digital multimeter is warmed to room temperature for an accurate reading! The accuracy of testing a coil is more complicated when performed with an analog multimeter. But not all coils will test this way! The secondary windings in some coils will show no resistance, which will be a false indication that it's a defective coil. Therefore, the best way to check a coil to find if it's in good condition is with three jumper wires (with alligator clips) and a fully charged 12 volt battery, spark plug wire in good condition and known good spark plug. Points and condenser are not required and is irrelevant in performing this test. Connect the wires as follows, then observe for a spark:

  1. Insert the spark plug wire in the coil and on the spark plug terminal, and connect the battery negative (–) post to the spark plug body, or allow the plug to rest on a clean and rust-free bare metal bench/table top if it's being used as engine/chassis ground.
  2. Connect the battery negative (–) post to the negative (–) coil terminal and to engine/chassis ground. NOTE: If the two small terminals on the coil aren't marked (+) and (–), then connect the wire to either terminal. The coil's casing does not need to be grounded.
  3. Momentarily make contact with a jumper wire from the battery positive (+) post to the positive (+) coil terminal. A spark should occur at the spark plug's tip each time the jumper wire taps the terminal. If no spark, then the coil is defective or recheck the connections again. FYI - A high-output/performance low saturation coil will produce a noticeably snappier-sounding, stronger blue spark than a standard-output coil. The blue color is burning of hydrogen gas in the atmosphere, and the snapping sound is a breaking of the sound barrier or a tiny "sonic boom" released from the rapid burning of the hydrogen gas.


Typical Battery Points and Condenser/Capacitor Ignition System for a Garden Tractor

If the ignition coil has an internal resistor, connect the wires as shown below...
NOT using a ballast resistor for the coil


But if the coil require an external resistor (ballast resistor), connect the wires as shown below...
Using a ballast resistor for the coil



How to Test the Strength of an Ignition System -

Universal Spark TesterFirst of all, when checking the strength of an ignition system, do not use the type of spark tester that connects between the spark plug and the spark plug wire! This type may show a false indication if the spark plug is weak or fouled. Therefore, it's best use a universal spark tester like the ones pictured to the right. These connect between the spark plug wire and engine ground. But when testing the strength of the spark with the just the spark plug, always use a new spark plug, and the ignition must be strong enough to produce an audible snappy-sounding strong blue spark at the plug's tip. A good spark plug is supposed to produce a snappy-sounding strong blue spark with it placed somewhere on the engine when the engine is cranked. (FYI - The blue color is burning of hydrogen gas in the atmosphere, and the snapping sound is a breaking of the sound barrier or a tiny "sonic boom" released from the rapid burning of the hydrogen gas.) If the spark is visibly white or red in color, either the [used] spark plug is fouled or the ignition coil is weak and needs replacing. Unlike gasoline, alcohol fuels (ethanol and methanol) will rarely foul spark plugs. And depending on which gas is burned in a competition pulling engine, use only the type of spark plug that's recommended by the manufacturer of the engine. If the wrong type of plug is used, the engine will lose power.

Engines with a points and condenser/capacitor magneto ignition system can be cranked over slowly to produce a spark. But most engines with a solid state ignition (B&S's Magnetron™) must be cranked over quickly to produce a spark. However, on engines with battery ignition, there's really no need to crank the engine to check for spark. What can be done is momentarily and lightly connect the points contacts with a small metal object, such as the tip of a screwdriver.

Also, if the spark plug's tip is black and/or has wet gas on it, and if you think the problem is in the carburetor, well, the carburetor is probably working fine because the engine is obviously getting plenty of gas. As an older, experienced mechanic once said, "Most carburetor problems are electrical." (Meaning faulty ignition system.) This have been proven true more times than I can remember.

How to Test the Strength of an Ignition Coil's Output Voltage -

The way I test a stock coil is I connect it in a circuit, like it's on an engine and if it produces a spark with at least a 3/4" wide gap, it's a good coil. A high-output/performance low saturation ignition coil should produce a spark with a wider gap.

The differences between a point-ignition coil and an electronic ignition coilAll conventional point-ignition systems that's installed on garden tractor and automotive engines utilizes a standard-output [20,000-30,000 volt] coil. And all automotive (distributor) electronic ignition systems utilize a high-output/performance (40,000 volt) low saturation coil. The obvious and visual differences in these coils is by the height of the center tower. The standard-output coil has a shorter center tower. In most cases, it's not capable of producing enough volts to short out (jump) to the small terminals. And all high-output/performance low saturation coils have a taller tower, to keep the spark from shorting or jumping to the small terminals. Most standard-output battery ignition coils that's designed for a small engine, such as Kohler, Tecumseh, etc., have a 3.0, 4.0 or 5.0 ohm internal primary resistor. And most standard-output coils that's designed for a points/distributor-type ignition system (automotive, farm tractor, etc.) have a 1.5 ohm internal primary resistor. And most high-output/performance low saturation coils for electronic/distributor-type ignition systems or Distributorless Ignition System (DIS) have a 0.4 ohm internal primary resistor. The size of the resistor allows for full coil saturation so the points will last longer and so the engine will accelerate to full speed (wide open throttle), and if it's for electronic/crank trigger ignition, to prevent from burning up the control module. Some coils are marked with printing on the casing to indicate their ohms resistance, but sometimes the printing may not be accurate. So when replacing a coil or when purchasing a new coil for any particular ignition system, always check/test the value of the ohms to be 100% certain that the coil will be suitable for the ignition system it is designed for. Use an ohmmeter to check/test the coil, even if it's at a small engine shop, local auto parts store, etc.

Ignition coil with two straps for better supportIf you've ever experienced the metal strap on an ignition coil of breaking due to normal engine vibration (especially at higher RPM or wide open throttle) and because the metal itself is too thin, then what you need to do is either fabricate a strap made of thicker metal, or install two coil straps as shown in the picture to the right, and be sure to fasten the straps securely. This will double the life of the clamps and lessen the chances of either strap of ever breaking again.

Ever had a good run going down the track and all of a sudden the engine dies, and you found the cause was the [failed] ignition coil? Well, chances are, it wasn't designed for use on a garden pulling tractor, especially when the engine is ran at wide open throttle. Even new oil-filled canister coils have been known to fail in a very short time on a garden pulling tractor. The reason some coils fail is due to normal single cylinder engine vibration running at high RPM or wide open throttle. The tiny wires (or windings) inside the coil will vibrate and break over time. Even the insulation on the windings themselves will "rub" or scrape against the other internal wires, resulting in a short, and eventual coil failure. That's why it's best to use an epoxy filled or molded epoxy coil to prevent the windings from vibrating, shorting out and/or breaking. The epoxy holds the wires solid, resulting in no vibration of the windings whatsoever. Most epoxy filled or molded epoxy coils produce up to 45,000 volts, too. So for the little difference in price, accept no substitutes! Epoxy filled or molded epoxy coils are most reliable for use on a garden pulling tractor. To prevent prematurely burning the ignition points, it's best to check the coil with a digital multimeter to determine if it require an external resistor or not.

Any ignition coil with a 1.0 ohm internal resister or a GM DIS (Distributorless Ignition System) coil can be safely used in a 6 volt ignition system without a ballast resistor or ignition resistor wire. But to use a 6 volt coil in a 12 volt ignition system, simply use a minimum 1.2 ohm ballast resistor in series between the power supply and positive (+) coil terminal to reduce the voltage to the coil and current through the points. The coil should produce a strong spark, operate cool to the touch and last a long time. The points should last a long time, too. To check/test if a coil is rather for 6 volts (and can be used in a 12 volt ignition system with a ballast resistor) or for 12 volts, perform the test below Ê.

A battery ignition coil with a primary resistance of 0.6 ohms is most definitely a high energy coil with a voltage output of about 30-45,000 volts and the primaries must be switched electronically as that coil will draw around 20 amps. Coils that are around 2.5 to 3.0 ohms are internally ballasted and don't need an external ballast resistor, and have medium voltage output of about 15-35,000 volts. Coils between 4 and 6 ohms are also internally ballasted and do not require a ballast resistor, and have low voltage output of about 12-20,000 volts.

Primary resistance is a function of impedence and the lower it is, the faster the rise and fall time of the primary magnetic field and the greater its strength, causing a much higher induced voltage at the secondary winding. Points can only handle about 3 amps continuously and thereby put a limit on the coil's output by restricting the primary resistance to 4 or 5 ohms. A ballast resistor is a way of allowing the use of a much lower impedence coil (1.5 ohm) without letting the primary current get too high and burning the points contacts. This almost doubles the coil's output, which, in turn allows for wider plug gaps, so that it can ignite much richer fuel mixtures with the more energetic spark.

Ballast and ignition resistors with a higher ohms value are known as "Point Savers." The higher the ohms primary resistance an ignition resistor has, being if it's a ballast resistor and/or a resistor inside an ignition coil, the longer the ignition points contacts will last (as long as the points/contacts are installed clean, and doesn't become contaminated with dust, oil or water). A 12 volt ignition coil with a 3.0 ohm internal primary resistor connected to a 1.6 ohm ballast resistor (highest value ballast resistor available) when used in a points ignition system will allow the points contacts to possibly last the life of the engine. And just one standard capacity [Kohler] condenser/capacitor can be used. Install the 1.6 ohm ballast resistor between the coil positive (+) terminal and wire coming from the ignition switch to the coil. This will allow the points to possibly last the life of the engine. Because the increased resistance allows a very low current (flow of voltage) to pass through the points contacts, resulting in much less electrical arcing of the contacts. This will drastically reduce the premature burning away of the platinum on the points contacts. The ignition system will still provide a strong spark because an average small engine requires only a fraction of voltage from the coil. And this is best used with general lawn and garden, snow removal, etc. equipment engines, and not for competition pulling. And this is best to used with general lawn and garden, snow removal, etc., and not for competitive pulling.

How to Check/Test the Value of the Ohms (d) Resistance of an Ignition Coil, Ballast Resistor, Ignition Resistor Wire or Spark Plug Wire -

Virtually all ceramic-body ballast resistors do not have any indication or markings of its ohms primary resistance. Therefore, it will need to be tested to verify the resistance for it to work correctly with the connected device. If it's used resistor, inspect the ceramic portion for signs of overheating. An overheated (overloaded) resistor will be dark or blackened. Such a resistor should not be used. And most 12 volt ignition coils have either an 1.5 or 3.0 ohm internal primary resistor. 6 volt coils have a 1.0 ohm internal primary resistor. All battery-ignition coils have an internal resistor and some coils require an additional external resistor for two reasons: 1: to provide a stronger spark so a cold engine will start quicker (as the engine warms up, the resistor gradually drops the voltage to around 9 volts to the points contacts so they will last longer, or to the electronic ignition control unit to keep it from burning up); and 2: to protect the primary windings from current spikes from the charging generator or alternator. Anyway, the best way to determine the value of the resistor is with a digital multimeter. When in doubt of the ohms value in a coil, it can be checked as follows:

  1. Spark plug wires can be accurately checked with either an analog or digital multimeter, but the accuracy of checking the resistor in a coil, ballast resistor or ignition resistor wire is more complicated when performed with an analog multimeter. Therefore, the most accurate way to check/test the ohms resistance in a coil, ballast resistor or ignition resistor wire is with a digital multimeter (DMM, DVOM). And make sure the battery is fully charged in either multimeter, and that the digital multimeter is warmed to room temperature for an accurate reading.
  2. Switch on the digital multimeter, plug the red test lead connector in the Vd receptacle, and plug the black test lead connector in the COM receptacle, then select the 200 ohms (d) setting. On some digital multimeters, resistance is denoted by the capital Greek letter Omega (d), which stands for ohms.
  3. Digital Ohmmeter Calibration: Touch the test leads together and observe the reading on the display. Be sure to keep your fingers off the metal leads, because your body could disrupt the resistance, resulting in an inaccurate reading. If the meter shows slightly higher than 0.0, this is the resistance in the circuitry of the digital multimeter. This figure will need to be subtracted from the reading of the ballast resistor or resistor in the ignition coil. For example: If the resistor's resistance reading is 1.9 ohms, but when the digital multimeter leads are connected together, the reading is 0.5 Ohms, then the resistor's resistance is actually 1.4 Ohms. Do the arithmetic: 1.9 Ohms - 0.5 Ohms = 1.4 Ohms. This calibration procedure applies only to resistance measurements made in the 200 ohms (d) setting of a digital Ohmmeter. It may take a few seconds for the Ohmmeter to settle until it displays the lowest resistance in the circuitry. Make a note of this reading.
  4. With the ballast resistor, resistor wire, coil or spark plug wire not connected to anything, connect the test leads to the terminals on the ballast resistor, ends of the resistor wire, small terminals on the coil or the terminals of the spark plug wire. Being there's no polarity, it doesn't matter which terminals they're connected to. Again, be sure to keep your fingers off the metal leads or terminals!
  5. The resistance in or of the item being tested will now be displayed on the digital multimeter screen. Again, it may take a few seconds for the digital multimeter to settle so it'll display the lowest resistance. This figure will need to be subtracted from the resistance in the digital multimeter circuitry. Click here to see a YouTube video on Ignition Coil Test (The Short Version).
  6. Use a permanent ink felt tip marker (Sharpie metallic silver permanent marker for dark colored coils and a Sharpie black permanent marker for bright colored ballast resistors, coils or masking tape on resistor wires and spark plug wires) or paint marker to note on the ignition part its ohms resistance for future reference. Return to previous paragraph or website.


All automotive high-output/performance low saturation or OEM electronic ignition coils, including the popular 12 volt Bosch blue coil with an internal resistor, have more primary and secondary windings than a standard-output coil. This is how they produce more voltage for a stronger spark. When used with a points and condenser/capacitor ignition system, the energy of the primary windings within the coil is transferred in the condenser/capacitor. And in most cases, one standard capacity condenser/capacitor isn't capable of handling the excessive amount of electricity from the primary windings to fully energize the secondary windings within the coil, thus allowing the coil to produce a low voltage or weak spark at any RPM, which will cause the engine to idle poorly and run poorly. Sometimes when using a high-output/performance low saturation ignition coil with one standard capacity (Kohler) condenser/capacitor, black smoke will blow out the exhaust at idle and flames will shoot out the exhaust at high RPM or wide open throttle.

For a high-output/performance low saturation ignition system operate at 100% efficiency and produce more voltage at any RPM, it's best to use two standard capacity (Kohler) condensers/capacitors or one high-capacity/performance condenser/capacitor. Using either two standard capacity (Kohler) condensers/capacitors or one high-capacity/performance condenser/capacitor will allow an engine to idle better, run smoother, and produce more power at high RPM or at wide open throttle. Connect both condensers/capacitors to the negative (–) coil terminal, or to the wire going to the points, and make sure each condenser/capacitor is grounded. If an engine is built right, the ignition timing is set correct, and if the carburetor is adjusted correctly, with two standard capacity (Kohler) condensers/capacitors or one high-capacity/performance condenser/capacitor, the exhaust (appearance) should be cleaner at idle, and with no flames at high RPM or wide open throttle. A stock or standard-output coil will not produce more voltage than what it is designed for with two standard capacity (Kohler) condensers/capacitors or one high-capacity/performance condenser/capacitor. But it will produce 100% voltage with two standard capacity (Kohler) condensers/capacitors or one high-capacity/performance condenser/capacitor. And with crank trigger electronic ignition, if an electronic ignition control module/unit (ICU) with a high-capacity transistor is used, a standard-output or high-output/performance low saturation coil will produce 100% voltage regardless. And if you're wondering, any type of ignition points can be used with any type of coil and condenser/capacitor.

NOTE: If an engine idles well, but runs erratically above idle, like it hits and misses, pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs a new condenser/capacitor. And always install a condenser/capacitor with the wire or terminal facing down so rain water and/or when washing off engine, water will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it. Click here to hear what an engine with a faulty condenser/capacitor sounds like.

When choosing a high-output/performance low saturation ignition coil, such as a Chrysler electronic ignition canister coil, if it reads on the casing: "use with electronic ignition" (or something like this), all this means is if the coil is used with full 12 volts, and with points and [one standard capacity] condenser/capacitor, the points won't last long due to the higher voltage going through them. To use the coil, simply install a [1.6 ohm resistance] ballast resistor before the coil to decrease the voltage going through the coil and the points, and the points should last longer. And definitely use two standard capacity (Kohler) condensers/capacitors or one high-capacity/performance condenser/capacitor so the coil will produce more voltage. (When using two condensers/capacitors, connect each condenser/capacitor to the negative (–) coil terminal, or to the wire going to the points, and make sure each condenser/capacitor is grounded.) NOTE: If an engine idles well, but runs erratically above idle, like it hits and misses, pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs a new condenser/capacitor. And always install a condenser/capacitor with the wire or terminal facing down so rain water and/or when washing off engine, water will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it. Click here to hear what an engine with a faulty condenser/capacitor sounds like.

Causes of Engine "Popping" or Backfire -

When replacing the ignition coil on a Kohler engine model KT17, KT17 series 2, KT19 and KT19 series 2, K482, K532, K582, or Onan twin cylinder engines, instead of using the high-dollar standard-output OEM Kohler coil, you can use either two automotive-type canister coils with two condensers/capacitors (one condenser/capacitor per coil), a 2-post Harley-Davidson coil (this particular coil also works great for Kohler engine model KT17, KT17 series 2, KT19 and KT19 series 2, K482, K532, K582, K660/K662, or Onan twin cylinder engines, or a GM DIS (Distributorless Ignition System) coil. The DIS coil has a 0.4 ohm internal primary resistor. So when using a DIS coil with points, two ballast resistors, a 1.0 ohm and 1.6 ohm (which totals the minimum requirement of 3.0 ohms resistance for points), will need to be connected to the coil for longer points life and to prevent premature burning of the points contacts. And two standard capacity condensers/capacitors or one high capacity/performance condenser/capacitor will also need to be used with this coil so it will produce maximum voltage to the spark plugs, allowing the engine accelerate to full speed (wide open throttle) with no hesitation or misfire. Also, the DIS coil is a high-output/performance low saturation coil that produces up to 40,000 volts, so the spark plug gaps can be set at .060" each. The DIS coil has molded epoxy internal construction, which makes it vibration-resistant. The DIS coil part numbers are AC Delco D555 or Standard Motor Products DR39X, and was used in select GM vehicles from 1985 to the 2005, one of which is the 2005 Chevrolet Impala. There is no positive (+) or negative (–) connections on the two small terminals on these coils. They can be connected either way. When using points with 12 volts, install a ballast resistor to prevent burning up the coil, and connect two standard capacity (Kohler) condensers/capacitors or one high-capacity/performance condenser/capacitor so the coil will produce more voltage. (When using two condensers/capacitors, connect each condenser/capacitor to the negative (–) coil terminal, or to the wire going to the points, and make sure each condenser/capacitor is grounded.) A ballast resistor is not required with crank trigger electronic ignition or in a 6 volt system. NOTE: If an engine idles well, but runs erratically above idle, like it hits and misses, pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs a new condenser/capacitor. And always install a condenser/capacitor with the wire or terminal facing down so rain water and/or when washing off engine, water will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it. Click here to hear what an engine with a faulty condenser/capacitor sounds like.

Go here to see how well the GM DIS coil works: Gravely 817 Onan CCKA Coil Replacement with Chevy GM DIS Coil - YouTube (Video posted by Ralph (rw3dog@yahoo.com)

If the engine is has opposed 180º cylinders, then only one module and one [two post] coil can be used to fire both cylinders. The engine will have a wasted spark. One cylinder will fire on the compression stroke, while other will fire on the exhaust stroke. But being the 90º V-twin engines fire at 90º intervals and not at 180º for each cylinder, two separate modules and two coils will need to be used.

Causes of Ignition Coil Failures -

Most battery-powered ignition coils will last the life of an engine. But if a quality coil keeps going bad for no apparent reason, then there are three things that will cause this. They are...

  1. Lack of a ballast resistor or a resistor wire before the coil. (If the coil requires one.)
  2. Defective voltage regulator or rectifier. If the charging system continues to charge with no gradual "falling back" reading on the amp gauge (if installed), this will put too much voltage throughout the entire electrical system, especially the coil, eventually burning out the primary windings within the coil. Overcharging of the charging system could also burn up the electronic ignition control module/unit (ICU) used with a crank trigger electronic system, burn up the battery (cause the acid to boil), burn out light bulbs, electric PTO clutch and any other electrical accessories. Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an amp gauge to keep an eye on the charging system. Having an amp gauge installed is very important in monitoring the charging system to prevent premature failure of electrical components. By the time you smell something burning or see smoke, it may be too late.
  3. If a garden tractor is equipped with an automotive battery, it may have a dead cell or all the cells are weak (defective battery.) Unlike in an automobile, and if the starter motor is in good condition, a weak automotive battery will have more than enough cranking amps to crank over a small, single- or two-cylinder engine with no problem, and a drop in the battery's cranking amps wouldn't be that noticeable while cranking the engine to start it. Whether if it's in a garden tractor or an automobile, an automotive battery with a dead cell or weak cells will cause the charging system to continually try to recharge the battery, but instead of the battery taking full charge, the charging system will put too much voltage through the coil for long periods of time, causing the primary windings within the coil to burn up. If an engine has a battery-powered electronic ignition, this too, could burn up the electronic ignition control module, burn out light bulbs and electrical accessories. To determine if a battery is defective, use a load tester for sealed-top batteries, and for batteries with removable caps, test the battery's acid condition with a hydrometer battery tester (glass tube with floating balls [pocket size] or a floating bulb [full size]; which are available at virtually any auto parts store). Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an amp gauge to keep an eye on the charging system.
  4. Although rare, severe engine vibrations could cause the tiny wires inside the coil to break. Read more about this below Ê.

Why Do Some Magneto Ignition Coils To Go Bad?

I think the Briggs & Stratton, Kohler KT-series and Magnum twin cylinder flathead engines are the best that was made. The only problem with these engines is they use one (small) ignition coil to fire two spark plugs, one per cylinder, and after several years of use, sometimes the coil will fail to produce a spark, rather if the engine has points and condenser/capacitor, Magnetron™ or a solid state ignition module. Unfortunately, some ignition coils don't last the life of the engine. As the spark plug's electrode and/or the resistor in a resistor-type spark plug deteriorates, the secondary windings within the coil is forced to produce more voltage to fire the plug. Eventually, the increase in voltage will overheat and burn out the secondary windings within the coil, causing coil failure. This is why quality-made copper core spark plugs should always be used. The coil burns out because one coil must fire two spark plugs at one time with the plug gaps set at .030" each (factory recommended setting). With these size gaps, this is the same as firing one spark plug with a gap of .060"! Most magneto coils are not designed to produce this much voltage and may not last too long when they do. The coil is forced to produce more voltage than is necessary to fire both plugs and this causes the secondary windings within the coil to overheat and eventually burn out. And as the spark plugs deteriorate with age, the coil is forced to produce even more voltage to make a spark through the weak plugs. To lessen the chance of a coil going bad (again), set the plug gap at .015" each. The .015" gaps will simulate having just one spark plug with a .030" gap, and the coil will operate much cooler and should last a lot longer. Dyno tests have proved that the engine will still start quickly, idle and accelerate quickly to full speed, run the same and produce just as much power at higher RPM as with the .030" spark plug gaps. Set the ignition coil laminations to flywheel magnet air gap/clearance at .010". The paper box the coil originally came in can be used as a gauge. It has pretty much the same thickness as poster board.

Also, save the spark plug wire off the old coil. These have a stranded metal core wire, and with a coil (distributor) terminal and coil tower boot installed, it can be used on an engine with a magneto ignition system.

Or instead of doing the above È, if an older Briggs & Stratton twin cylinder flathead engine has points, it can be easily converted to the more reliable and higher output battery ignition (for a stronger spark). The B&S ignition points can be still used, but two automotive canister-type ignition coils or a battery ignition coil with dual plug terminals (as described above È) with spark plug wires, and two battery ignition condensers/capacitors will need to be used. The spark plug gaps can be set at .035", and the ignition timing can be set by the width of the points gap (.020") or with an automotive strobe timing light after the flywheel is degreed in with timing marks. The timing light connects to the battery and spark plug wire.

And if you're wondering if surface rust on flywheel magnets reduces magnetism and/or strength of the spark on the armature of a magneto ignition coil, well, I know for a proven fact that surface rust does not affect magnetism or strength of the spark whatsoever. (This is the same as saying that pure, undiluted automotive antifreeze coolant will freeze solid in freezing weather. It will NOT freeze! And despite of what you've probably heard, putting sugar in the gas tank will NOT ruin the engine! Read about it here: snopes.com: Sugar in the Gas Tank.) Don't just theorize about such things, believe in myths, rumors or what some [delusional] people/mechanics/technicians tell you. Perform a scientific test to prove to yourself and debunk the myths. I always do.

And for anyone who's wondering, an standard-output automotive battery ignition condenser/capacitor with an automotive canister ignition coil will work on any one- or two-cylinder air-cooled engine that use the battery ignition system. But when using two automotive ignition coils on a twin- or two-cylinder engine with conventional points, be sure to use two condensers/capacitors as well, one for each coil , only if the coil(s) requires one. Otherwise, the engine will idle, but may not accelerate. And there's a very little difference between the Kohler battery ignition condenser/capacitor and an automotive [GM, Ford or Chrysler] ignition [points] condenser/capacitor. So either can be used on a small engine.


What are the Best Spark Plugs to Use for an Ordinary Lawn & Garden Tractor or Garden Pulling Tractor?

First of all, avoid using low cost, inferior quality or "cheapie" spark plugs, especially with the wording "LAWN MOWER" printed on the porcelain! I never had one of these last more than 5 minutes in any engine. Also, since I began repairing small engines in 1982, I've heard great things about NGK spark plugs, but in my personal experience, I found that they are nothing but junk! Before installing the [correct type of] NGK spark plug in the engine, to remove all doubts about the strength of the ignition system, I would check/test the [NGK] spark plug to verify if it has a snappy-sounding strong blue spark, to which it had. (FYI - The blue color is burning of hydrogen gas in the atmosphere, and the snapping sound is breaking of the sound barrier or a tiny "sonic boom" released from the rapid burning of the hydrogen gas.) Then after installing the plug, to my surprise, it would foul-out (develop a weak spark) when priming the carburetor with gas and cranking the engine to get it started! And if an engine did start, it would only run for a few seconds before another [NGK] plug became fouled. I've had this happen with every NGK spark plug! I hate to say this about a product that many claim to be superior, but it's the honest truth. They say that seeing is believing, and I believe this product to be inferior. If anyone has good luck or results using NGK spark plugs, then maybe they should purchase a lottery ticket, too.

I've found that Autolite and Champion non-resistor/copper core type spark plugs are the best quality. These do not foul-out and they last a long time. Also, it'll be a good idea to avoid using resistor-type spark plugs in a small engine with magneto or solid state ignition. Resistor plugs will cause a good magneto or solid state ignition coil to go bad prematurely because they force the secondary windings within the coil to produce higher voltage to fire the plug, eventually causing the windings to burn out.


Spark Plug Wires - (Updated 10/16/16)

The best way to determine if a spark plug wire has a carbon- or metal core wire is with a set on the 200 ohms (d) setting for a digital multimeter or x1K setting for an analog multimeter. Touch the multimeter leads together to adjust for (analog) or take note of (digital) the zero resistance. Now connect the leads of the multimeter to the ends of the spark plug wire. If the reading displays zero resistance, it's a metal core plug wire. But if it displays any resistance at all, it's most likely a suppression/carbon core spark plug wire. Most metal core spark plug wires rarely lose resistance, resulting in a weak spark. The only time they need replacing is when damaged beyond use. Any spark plug wire can be checked with an analog or digital multimeter set on 200 ohms (d) resistance. Also, all ordinary small engine spark plug wires have a stranded metal core wire and are considered high performance.

Copper core spark plugs, such as the Autolite 216 and Champion 844 (H10C), and small engine spark plug wires, which have a metal core wire, are the best things to use for competition pulling. By using a copper core plug and metal core wire, more voltage will reach the spark plug's tip, especially under high compression when the engine is running at wide open throttle, resulting in a much stronger spark. A stock, standard-output ignition coil with a metal spark plug wire and a copper core spark plug will produce about the same voltage at the spark plug's tip as a high-output/performance low saturation coil with a suppression/carbon core spark plug wire and a resistor-type spark plug.

On any ignition system, the coil produce is less voltage at idle or cruising speeds (in an automobile) when the throttle plate is partially open, and when the throttle plate is opened more or in the wide open throttle position to increase the engine's RPM, being the combustion chamber is more air (and fuel) to build up more compression, the coil is forced to produce more voltage to fire the spark(s). As a suppression/carbon core spark plug wire and/or resistor-type spark plug gets weak (they deteriorate with use), the ignition coil is forced to produce even more voltage. Eventually, as the suppression/carbon core wire and/or resistor plug gets so weak, the coil can't produce enough voltage and an engine misfire occurs, or the engine will die out upon acceleration. This will happen even with a high-output/performance low saturation coil. It just takes longer for the high-output coil to reach maximum voltage as the suppression/carbon core spark plug wire and/or resistor-type spark plug deteriorate to cause an engine misfire. The use of aged and deteriorated suppression/carbon core spark plug wire and/or an old resistor-type spark plug will also cause a good coil to eventually fail because the secondary windings within the coil overheat and eventually burn up from producing excessive voltage to fire the plug.

If a spark plug wire has no markings rather if it's a suppression/carbon or metal core wire type, it can be checked with an analog or digital multimeter set on ohms (d) resistance. Connect the leads of the meter to the terminals of the spark plug wire, if it reads full scale, it's a metal core wire type. But if the meter reads about halfway, it's suppression/carbon core spark plug wire. The same test can be performed on a questionable spark plug, with accurate results. And remember - spark plug wires and spark plugs are like women, it's what's on the inside that matters.


And in my experience, it seems that it makes no difference of what type of spark plug works best for gas or methanol fuel. But a wider gap (.060") works better with methanol. And gas burns just fine with a standard gap of .035". Click here for Champion Spark Plug's Numbering System.

And the use of a "cold" or "hot" spark plug (heat range) doesn't matter in a pulling engine with a steel flywheel that have no fins because these engines have no cooling system to cool or extract the heat from the plug. When there's no fins on a flywheel or with an electric fan not running to cool the engine, nothing will cool the engine, except for a swift breeze on a cool, windy day.

Did you know that installing two spark plugs per cylinder doesn't help to increase the power output of an engine whatsoever? Simply because one plug will be running hot (exhaust side) and the other will be cool (intake side). Engine power is generated from the heat source, because heat is how an engine produces power. When the spark plug in the cylinder head is located over the exhaust valve, this maintains the majority of the heat in the combustion chamber in one area. When heat is maintained in one particular area in any given combustion chamber, the increase in power will be much greater, especially at high RPM. Burning fuel within a combustion chamber will "find" or locate the main heat source. The fuel will burn more thoroughly, allowing the engine to produce more power at any RPM. If the plug is located in the center of the combustion chamber, the incoming fuel could splash against the plug's tip and cause the engine to misfire or run erratic at high speed, especially when burning methanol fuel. And the plug could easily become fouled when burning gas, especially when the engine is cold. So it's best to install just one spark plug positioned over the exhaust valve with the plug gap set at .060". Because a .060" gap will simulate having two spark plugs. Use of a high-output/performance low saturation ignition coil will help produce a stronger spark, too.


Indexing the Spark Plug(s) -

Indexing the spark plug(s) helps to increase engine horsepower and torque. This is when the open or exposed gap of the plug face the piston when the plug is torqued in the head. When the open gap faces the piston, this helps in a more thorough combustion of the fuel so the engine will produce more power and torque at high RPM or wide open throttle. An indexing washer of a certain thickness is used to index the spark plug(s). An indexing washer is placed on the threads of the spark plug to set the plug at a certain position in the head with the open gap toward the piston. Indexing washers come in various thicknesses, made of copper for better heat transfer when used with air- or water-cooled racing engines, or steel washers can be used with non-cooled high performance pulling engines. The thin shims/washers for Kohler balance gears can also be used as indexing washers for spark plug(s) on non-cooled engines. Use a permanent ink felt tip marker (Sharpie or Marks-A-Lot) to place a line on the porcelain of the spark plug in-line with the open or exposed gap on the end of the plug. This is so you will know where the open or exposed gap is when the plug is installed in the head.

Furthermore, when the spark plug in the cylinder head is located over the exhaust valve, this maintains the majority of the heat in the combustion chamber in one area, instead of being spread throughout the combustion chamber. When heat is maintained in one particular area in any given combustion chamber, the increase in power will be much greater, especially at high RPM. Burning fuel within a combustion chamber will "find" or seek out the main heat source. The fuel will burn more thoroughly, allowing the engine to produce more power at any RPM. If the plug is located in the center of the combustion chamber, the incoming fuel could splash against the plug's tip and cause the engine to misfire or run erratic at high speed, especially when burning methanol fuel. And the plug could easily become fouled when burning gas, especially when the engine is being choked or primed with fuel to start it when it's cold. Return to previous paragraph or website.

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If you need any of the parts or services listed below Ê, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends (except Holidays). Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival. Fax: 1-573-449-7347. E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. Please click here to place an order.
FYI - I can install a crank trigger electronic ignition system and/or rewire your lawn & garden tractor, equipment or garden pulling tractor so all the electrical accessories will work and the engine will start quickly every time. I have the knowledge, skills, all the tools and parts necessary to perform a quality job. I've rewired many customer's lawn & garden tractor/equipment or garden pulling tractor with great results. If you're interested, my phone numbers, address and directions to my shop are above È. - Brian Miller
NOTE: All parts listed here are NEW, unless otherwise stated. I do not sell cheap junk! As a matter of fact, most OEM Kohler parts are made in China now. Kohler owns some of the factories in China that make the parts. And most aftermarket parts are also made by Kohler in China. Kohler just place the part(s) in a generic box and sell them for less money. So when purchasing a genuine OEM Kohler part that comes in a box with the Kohler name on it, you're really just paying more money for the name. And as far as some parts being no longer available - either the parts didn't sell well or the EPA is trying to phase out parts for the old cast iron block flathead engines because they produce more air pollution than the newer OHV engines.
Ignition Points used on Kohler, Tecumseh and Clinton engines. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 series 2, KT19 and KT19 series 2, K482, K532 and K582 with magneto or battery ignition (use with mounting bracket). Also replaces: Tecumseh part #'s 32011, 32011A, used on engine models HH80, HH100, HH120 with battery ignition (use without mounting bracket); and Clinton engine models 414, 418, 420, 422 (use without mounting bracket). NOTE: Apply lubricating grease on the hinge pin before installing points so the hole will last longer. If it's dry, it'll wear over time, effecting ignition timing, resulting in loss of engine power.
  • High quality aftermarket points with mounting bracket. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler points with mounting bracket, part # 47 150 03-S. $14.30 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Install Hex Socket (Allen) Head Cap Screw w/split lock washer (below Ê) in points w/bracket above È, add .50¢.
  • NOTE: The electronic transistorized ignition modules (below) can be substituted for the points and condenser/capacitor for a stronger and more stable spark, quicker starts, and virtually trouble- and maintenance-free magneto ignition system.


Hex Socket (Allen) Head Cap Screw w/split lock washer to replace OEM slotted or Phillips head adjustment/clamp screw in Kohler/aftermarket points for easier access with a 9/64" hex (Allen) L-wrench (below Ê) to accurately set ignition timing with less effort in hard-to-reach places in small engine equipment when the engine sits lengthways (such as Cub Cadet) and securely tighten screw so points will not slip out of adjustment. NOTE: For aftermarket points, the threads may need to be recut with a 8-32 UNF hand tap. And due to risk of stripping threads, do not over-tighten adjustment screw! An original, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no other advertised copycat products of this kind.
  • .50¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Install Hex Socket (Allen) Head Cap Screw w/split lock washer in points w/bracket above È, add .50¢ to price of points.


9/64" Hex (Allen) L-Wrench. Use with hex socket (Allen) head cap adjustment/clamp screw (above È) in Kohler points to accurately set ignition timing with less effort in hard-to-reach places (such as Cub Cadet) and securely tighten screw so points will not slip out of adjustment. Wrench measures 7/8" wide x 2-1/2" length. Made of high strength black alloy steel. NOTE: Due to risk of stripping threads, do not over-tighten adjustment screw!
  • $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


Screws and split lock washers for mounting of ignition points and points cover. Phillips and Socket Head (Allen) screws make for easier fastening of points and points cover to engine block in hard-to-get places. Each: 10-24 UNC x 3/8" thread length. Slotted head points and cover mounting screws TIP: When installing a screw to keep it from falling out of the screwdriver, either apply a dab of grease in the head of the screw or temporarily magnetize the screwdriver by rubbing a magnet along the length of the shank.

  • Used and in excellent condition. Slotted head screw with integrated star lock washer. Discontinued from Kohler. OEM Kohler part # X-131-1-S. .25¢ each, plus shipping and handling.
  • New Phillips head and split lock washers. $1.00 per pair, plus shipping and handling.
  • New Socket Head (Allen) cap screws and split lock washers. $1.00 per pair, plus shipping and handling.
GM (Chevrolet) V8 adjustable ignition points that can be used on the Kohler K-series 10hp-16hp and twin cylinder flathead cast iron block engines. NOTE: The "Chevrolet" ignition points are actually made for the 1959-'74 American Motors, 1957-'73 Buick, 1956-'73 Cadillac, 1965-'74 Checker, 1957-'73 Chevrolet, 1956-'73 GMC, 1957 Hudson, 1957-'74 International, 1966-'74 Jeep, 1957 Nash, 1956-'73 Oldsmobile, 1957-'73 Pontiac, and 1960-'66 Studebaker vehicles with a V8 engine and Delco-Remy distributor. But these points can be easily adapted for use on Kohler [pulling] engines with an adapter bracket for easy adjustment of the ignition timing with an hex key (Allen) wrench. Points have a stiff spring for quick response at high RPM. Due to the inability to completely seal (cover) the points contacts from dust and debris, these are for competition pulling only, and not for ordinary lawn and garden equipment. And being the bracket for the GM points and the GM points themselves are much larger than Kohler points and bracket, the OEM Kohler points cover will not fit over the GM points and mounting bracket.
  • GM (Chevrolet) points only. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Stainless steel mounting bracket for Chevy points w/mounting screws. (Limited supply.) Protective cover not available. $15.00 each, plus shipping and handling.
Ignition Points. Fits Kohler engine models K660 and K662 with WICO magneto ignition. NOTE: Apply lubricating grease on the hinge pin before installing points so the hole will last longer. When it's dry, it'll wear prematurely, effecting ignition timing, resulting in loss of engine power. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # 240611-S. Also replaces Wisconsin part #'s 28-1AT-3076-ES, X5996 and X6942.
  • High quality aftermarket. $16.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • NOTE: The Electronic Transistorized Ignition Modules (below) can be substituted for the points and condenser/capacitor for a stronger and more stable spark, quicker starts, and virtually trouble- and maintenance-free magneto ignition system.
Condensers/Capacitors for battery powered ignition systems. Used on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 series 2, KT19 and KT19 series 2, K482, K532 and K582. Condensers/capacitors listed below Ê includes clamp. NOTE: Use two standard capacity (Kohler) condensers/capacitors or one high-capacity/performance condenser/capacitor with a high-output/performance low saturation ignition coil so it will produce full voltage. When using two condensers/capacitors, connect each condenser/capacitor to the negative (–) terminal on the coil, or to the wire going to the points, and make sure each condenser/capacitor is grounded. And if an engine idles well, but runs erratically above idle, like it hits and misses, pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs a new condenser/capacitor. And always install a condenser/capacitor with the wire or terminal facing down so rain water and/or when washing off engine, water will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it. Click here to hear what an engine with a faulty condenser/capacitor sounds like.
  • Standard capacity condensers/capacitors. Designed to be used only with standard-output ignition coils. Will not work with a distributor-driven ignition coil. Each measures: .665" diameter x 1.250" length x 3-1/2" wire length.
    • High quality aftermarket. $5.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • OEM Kohler condenser/capacitor part # 230722-S. $17.45 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • High quality, heavy duty, high capacity/performance condenser/capacitor. Designed for use with high-output/performance low saturation ignition coils so it will produce full voltage. Can also be used with a distributor-driven ignition coil. Reuse OEM Kohler condenser/capacitor bracket where applicable. Dimensions: .665" diameter x 1.250" length x 3-1/2" wire length.
    • $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler Condenser/Capacitor Clamp for high capacity/performance condenser/capacitor above È when used on Kohler engine models KT17, KT17 series 2, KT19 and KT19 series 2. Has 1/4" mounting hole.
    • Used and in excellent condition. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
MAGNETO Ignition Condensers/Capacitors. (Most commonly used condenser/capacitor.) Used on various Kohler engine models K141, K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331 and K341 with magneto ignition. Also used with Kohler engine models KT17, KT17 series 2, KT19 and KT19 series 2. Body length: 33 mm, width: 17 mm. Same capacity as condenser/capacitor below Ê, except different mounting bracket. NOTE: If an engine idles well, but runs erratically above idle, like it hits and misses, pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs a new condenser/capacitor. And always install a condenser/capacitor with the wire or terminal facing down so rain water and/or when washing off engine, water will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it. Click here to hear what an engine with a faulty condenser/capacitor sounds like.
  • High quality aftermarket. $5.00 each, plus shipping and handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 47 147 01-S. $23.50 each, plus shipping and handling.
  • NOTE: The Electronic Transistorized Ignition Modules (below Ê) can be substituted for the points and condenser/capacitor for a stronger and more stable spark, quicker starts, and virtually trouble- and maintenance-free magneto ignition system.


MAGNETO Ignition Condensers/Capacitors. Used on various Kohler engine models K90/K91 and K241 with magneto ignition. Same capacity as condenser/capacitor above È, except different mounting bracket. NOTE: If an engine idles well, but runs erratically above idle, like it hits and misses, pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs a new condenser/capacitor. And always install a condenser/capacitor with the wire or terminal facing down so rain water and/or when washing off engine, water will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it. Click here to hear what an engine with a faulty condenser/capacitor sounds like.
  • High quality aftermarket. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 220434-S. $17.30 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • NOTE: The Electronic Transistorized Ignition Modules (below) can be substituted for the points and condenser/capacitor for a stronger and more stable spark, quicker starts, and virtually trouble- and maintenance-free magneto ignition system.
Listed below are the most common spark plugs for Kohler and other small engines. These have a copper core, which help produce a stronger spark, plus they allow the ignition coil to last longer. Spark plugs for other makes and models of small engines are also available. When ordering, please specify make and model of engine.

Quality Copper Core Spark Plugs for Kohler engine models K90/K91, most Briggs & Stratton and small Tecumseh engines. Set gap .025" for magneto and solid state ignition, and .035" for battery ignition. 14mm threads x 3/8" thread reach, flat washer seat. Replaces Briggs and Stratton part # 802592S.

  • Autolite® 458. $2.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Champion® J19LM. $3.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 41 132 06-S. $7.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


Quality Copper Core Spark Plugs for Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181/M8, and larger Tecumseh engines. Set gap .025" for magneto and solid state ignition, and .035" for battery ignition. 14mm threads x 3/8" thread reach, flat washer seat.
  • Autolite® 295. $2.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Champion® J8C. $3.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 41 132 02-S. $9.35 each, plus shipping & handling.


Quality Copper Core Spark Plugs for Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K330/K331, K321/M14, K341/M16, K361, K482, K532 and K582. Set gap .025" for magneto and solid state ignition, and .035" for battery ignition. 14mm threads x 7/16" thread reach for stock OEM cylinder heads, flat washer seat.

  • Autolite® 216. $2.30 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Champion® 844 (H10C). $3.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 25 132 10-S. $11.10 each, plus shipping & handling.


Quality Copper Core Spark Plugs for Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K330/K331, K321/M14 , K341/M16. 14mm threads x 3/4" thread reach for machined billet cylinder heads, flat washer seat.
  • Autolite® 4056. $2.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Champion® 120 (N5C). $2.50 each, plus shipping & handling.


Quality Copper Core Spark Plugs for Kohler twin-cylinder flathead engine models MV16, KT17, KT17 series 2, KT19 and KT19 series 2, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Set gap .015" for battery and solid state ignition. 14mm threads x 15/32" thread reach, tapered seat.
  • Autolite® 26. $3.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Champion® RV17YC. $3.65 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 52 132 02-S. $9.15 each, plus shipping & handling.


Quality Copper Core Spark Plugs for most makes and models of OHV aluminum block single- and twin-cylinder air-cooled small engines. Set gap .025" for magneto and solid state ignition. 14mm threads x 5/8" thread reach, flat washer seat.
  • Autolite® 3924. $2.70 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Champion® RC12YC. $3.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 12 132 02-S. $6.10 each, plus shipping & handling.
Spark Plug Grommet for Kohler "Quiet Line" engine models K181AQS, M8, K241AQS, K301AQS, K321AQS and K341AQS. Fastens directly on spark plug in air duct shield (sheet metal) over cylinder head to help maintain cool air over the cylinder head. Made of neoprene rubber. OEM Kohler part # 47 313 01-S.
  • $3.95 each, plus shipping & handling. Not available in aftermarket. L
Indexing Washers for 14mm Thread Flat Seat Spark Plugs. Position spark plug in combustion chamber with open or exposed gap toward the piston for more power and torque at high RPMs or wide open throttle. Available in the following thicknesses: .012", .020", .025", .031", .047" and .062". Made of steel.
  • $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Indexing Washers for 14mm Thread Tapered Seat Spark Plugs. Position spark plug in combustion chamber with open or exposed gap toward the piston for more power and torque at high RPMs or wide open throttle. Available in the following thicknesses: .010", .021" and .032". Made of copper.

  • $1.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
Points Cover Gasket. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 series 2, KT19 and KT19 series 2, K482, K532 and K582. Protects points from dust, dirt and water contamination. OEM Kohler part # 52 041 11-S.
  • $1.80 each, plus shipping & handling. Not available in aftermarket. L
Points Cover/Wire Grommet. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 series 2, KT19 and KT19 series 2, K482, K532 and K582. Protects points wire from chafing and prevents dust, dirt and water from contaminating points. FYI: RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant will serve the same purpose. OEM Kohler part # 220297-S.
  • $3.55 each, plus shipping & handling. Not available in aftermarket. L
Points-to-Coil Primary Ignition Wires w/Connectors and Grommet Assembly. For Kohler engines with battery-powered ignition, models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 series 2, KT19, KT19 series 2, K482, K532 and K582. For converting from Magneto ignition or Kohler's Breakerless Ignition to conventional battery-powered points and condenser/capacitor ignition, or replace OEM wire with frayed/cracked insulation and/or broken connector(s) to prevent a short circuit and/or engine misfire.
  • High quality aftermarket. 10" length, 16 gauge stranded copper wire, crimp connectors and OEM Kohler points cover grommet. For Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582. Replaces Kohler part # A-231533-S. $9.00 each, plus shipping and handling.
  • For Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582. 17" length, 14 gauge stranded copper wire, connectors and points cover grommet. OEM Kohler part # A-231533-S. $14.85 each, plus shipping and handling.
  • High quality aftermarket. 14" length, 16 gauge stranded copper wire, crimp connectors and OEM Kohler points cover grommet. For single cylinder Kohler engines with coil located close to carburetor. $9.00 each, plus shipping and handling.
  • High quality aftermarket. 22" length, 16 gauge stranded copper wire, crimp connectors and OEM Kohler points cover grommet. For single cylinder Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) engines with coil located above starter motor. $9.00 each, plus shipping and handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 47 125 01-S. 22" length, 14 gauge stranded copper wire, connectors and points cover grommet. $17.55 each, plus shipping and handling.

"Assemble It Yourself" Points to Coil Ignition Wire w/Connectors and Grommet Kit. Includes cut to length 22", 16 gauge stranded copper wire, two connectors and OEM Kohler points cover grommet.

  • High quality aftermarket. $5.00 per kit, plus shipping and handling.
Points Cover without Kill Button for Battery Ignition. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 series 2, KT19 and KT19 series 2, K482, K532 and K582. Protects points from dust, dirt and water contamination. For use with a remote ignition switch to kill engine, such as garden tractors and other equipment. Made of 16 gauge stamped steel. Not available in aftermarket. L
  • Used and in excellent condition. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
  • New. OEM Kohler part # 232535-S. $11.61 each, plus shipping & handling.
Points Cover with Kill Button for Kohler engines with Magneto Ignition. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341, K482, K532 and K582. Protects points from dust, dirt and water contamination. Push and hold button in to kill engine. For use on self-contained, stand-alone engines without a remote ignition switch to kill engine, such as garden tillers, truck-mounted or portable air compressors, generator/welders, water pumps, etc. Made of 16 gauge stamped steel. Discontinued from Kohler. OEM Kohler part # A-220136-S. Not available in aftermarket. L
  • Used and in excellent condition. $30.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
Universal Loop-Type Throttle/Choke Cable Conduit/Wire Clamps. Use to secure wire(s), battery cable, small hose (for remote fuel primer), or cable conduit to throttle or choke bracket or bundle of wires along frame for safe routing. Each made of 16 gauge, zinc-plated steel, and requires 3/16" mounting screw.
  • Single wire, throttle cable or small hose clamp. Our part # 03-249. $1.00 each, plus shipping and handling.
  • Double wire, battery cable, throttle cable or small hose clamp. OEM Kohler part # X-728-1-S. $1.25 each, plus shipping and handling.
Universal Self-Grounding ON/OFF Switches for Magneto (points and condenser/capacitor) or Solid State Ignition Systems. Very durable, tough switches. Each can be mounted in metal (grounded) dashboard, instrument panel, engine control panel, engine flywheel shroud, etc. Single blade on switch connects to points wire or solid state module wire/terminal that kills the engine. Can be used on anything that has points and condenser/capacitor magneto, solid state, or solid state transistorized electronic modules, such as: Kohler Magnum and Command engines, lawn mowers, lawn tractors, garden tillers, go-karts, chainsaws, portable air compressors, generators/welders, water pumps, etc.
  • Universal ON/OFF Toggle Switch. Comes with ON/OFF indicator plate. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # 223072-S. $3.60 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Universal ON/OFF Key Switch. Use for security of equipment. Requires 5/8" mounting hole. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Universal ON/OFF Switches for Battery-Powered Ignition Systems. Each can be mounted in dashboard, instrument panel, engine control panel, etc. Wires connect between battery and ignition coil to supply power to and kill engine. Very durable, tough switches. Can be used on anything that has a battery-powered ignition system, such as: pulling tractors, mini-rods, hot-rods, garden tractors, farm tractors, automobiles, etc. Or can be used as a magneto/solid state ignition kill switch with one wire/terminal grounded and the other wire/terminal connected to the coil or ignition module, but the ON/OFF indicator plate will be reversed.
  • Universal ON/OFF Toggle Switch. Comes with ON/OFF indicator plate and two 6" wire leads. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # 238011-S. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Universal ON/OFF Key Switch. Use for security of equipment. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Push Button Switches. Use each to crank engine or activate killswitch motor on pulling sled. Each Normally Open; contact made when plunger is depressed. Use to crank over engine,
  • Light Duty 15 Amp Push Button Switch. Use as a safety switch, temporarily power low amperage electrical accessories, such as light(s), etc., or use with starter solenoid/relay to crank engine or to power kill switch motor (on pulling sled). Requires 15/32" mounting hole. 2-1/8" overall length. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Heavy Duty 20 Amp Push Button Switch. Starter solenoid/relay may be required depending on application. Comes with two screws to connect between battery positive (+) post and starter motor. Heavy wire terminals and minimum #8 gauge wire recommended. Requires 5/8" mounting hole. $14.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Universal, 3-Position OFF-IGNITION-START Key Switches. Use crimp-type slip-on spade wire connectors on terminals when connecting wires to switch. Each terminal identified for correct wire connections. Use each switch below with starter solenoid/relay to prevent burning out internal contacts.
  • Universal Key Switch for use with Magneto or Solid State Ignition Systems. Requires 5/8" diameter mounting hole. Our part # 55-1013. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Universal Key Switch for use with Battery-Powered or Crank Trigger Electronic Ignition Systems. Requires 9/16" diameter mounting hole. Our part # 430-249. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Points Pushrods for Kohler K-series engine models K141, K160/K161 and K181. Replace worn points pushrod or install a flared end points pushrod so ignition timing can be advanced to factory setting of 20º BTDC. Each made of 304 stainless steel material. NOTE: Used OEM pushrod to be no less than 1.265" in length and .184" in diameter. Measure accurately to determine if need replacing.
  • High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 41 411 01-S. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 41 411 01-S. $19.30 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Flared End Points Pushrod. Flared end makes contact with unworn sides of points lobe on camshaft. Can also be used with an unworn lobe for longer wear. Must be installed from inside crankcase. An original, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no other advertised copycat products of this kind. Replaces Kohler part # 41 411 01-S. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


Points Pushrods for Kohler K-series engine models K90/K91, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, K482, K532 and K582. Replace worn points pushrod or install a flared end points pushrod so ignition timing can be advanced to factory setting of 20º BTDC. NOTE: Used OEM pushrod to be no less than 1.500" in length and .184" in diameter. Measure accurately to determine if need replacing.
  • High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 46 411 01-S (aluminum). $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 47 411 04-S (stainless steel). $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 46 411 01-S (aluminum). $10.41 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 47 411 04-S (stainless steel). $14.91 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # X-489-8-S (aluminum; listed for K482, K532 and K582 engines). $26.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Flared End Stainless Steel Points Pushrod. Flared end makes contact with unworn sides of points lobe on camshaft. Can also be used with an unworn lobe for longer wear. Must be installed from inside crankcase. Can be used in Kohler engine models K90/K91, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, K482, K532 and K582. An original, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this part. Please accept no other advertised copycat products of this kind. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Return to previous paragraph or website.
Oil-Embedded Sleeve Bushings to Repair Worn 3/16" Points Pushrod Hole. The block will need to be precision-machined with a 1/4" (.250") reamer for installation of these bushings. Comes with two 3/16" i.d. x 1/4" o.d. x 3/8" length bushings. Two bushings required for total length of pushrod hole.
  • $5.00 per two bushings, plus shipping & handling.
Points Pushrod O-Ring and Diaphragm Seal. For Kohler engines with a 3/16" diameter points pushrod. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, K482, K532 and K582. Prevents crankcase oil from contaminating ignition points. O-ring installs on points pushrod, and seal slides over pushrod, and diaphragm is held in place by points bracket. Also used as part of the flywheel guard on various Kohler Magnum engine models M10-M16. Seal made of clear, silicone rubber. IMPORTANT: Before installing, apply clean motor oil, gear oil or lubricating grease inside seal lip or on points pushrod for lubrication and to prevent premature wear of the seal. Return to previous paragraph or website.
  • (Choose to use one or the other below Ê, no need to use both.)
  • Neoprene Rubber O-Ring. .50¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Diaphragm Seal. OEM Kohler part # 220074-S. $5.49 each, plus shipping & handling. Not available in aftermarket. L
Solid State Ignition Coil with Integrated Module. Fits Kohler Magnum engine model M8. NOTE: Install with spark plug wire facing engine block as shown in the picture to the right. Set spark plug gap at .025". Click here for important information concerning magneto ignition coils.
  • High quality aftermarket. $61.00 each, plus shipping and handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 41 584 03-S. $88.30 each, plus shipping and handling.


Solid State Ignition Coil with Integrated Module. Fits Kohler Magnum engine models M10, M12, M14 and M16. NOTE: Install with spark plug wire facing engine block as shown in the picture to the right. Set spark plug gap at .025". Click here for important information concerning magneto ignition coils.

  • High quality aftermarket. $60.00 each, plus shipping and handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 47 584 03-S. $87.20 each, plus shipping and handling.


Solid State Ignition Coil with Integrated Module. Fits Kohler Magnum opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engine models MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. NOTE: Install with spark plug wires facing outward. IMPORTANT: Set spark plug gap at .015" each for longer coil life. Click here for important information concerning magneto ignition coils.

  • High quality aftermarket. $70.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 52 584 02-S. $141.00 each, plus shipping and handing.
Solid State Ignition Coil with Integrated Magnetron™ Module. Fits Briggs and Stratton horizontal and vertical shaft opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engines. IMPORTANT: Set spark plug gap at .015" each for longer coil life. NOTE: Click here for important information concerning magneto ignition coils.
  • High quality aftermarket. $30.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Briggs and Stratton part #'s 392329, 394891, 394988. $45.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Magneto Ignition Coil. Fits various Kohler engine models K141, K161 and K181 with coil mounted on U-shaped ignition stator on bearing plate underneath flywheel with rotor w/magnet on crankshaft. Will also fit various larger cast iron block Clinton engines with coil mounted above flywheel, on cylinder. Spark plug wire not included. Dimensions: 1.750" diameter x 1.450" length x .505" square hole. NOTE: The transistorized electronic ignition modules (below) can be substituted for the points and condenser/capacitor for a stronger and more stable spark, quicker starts, and virtually trouble- and maintenance-free magneto ignition system.
  • OEM Kohler part # 231718-S. $133.35 each, plus shipping & handing. Not available in aftermarket. L

NOTE: The magneto coil wrapped with varnish-coated paper (Kohler part # 210293), and the stator assembly and rotor shown above are no longer available from Kohler. If you have an engine without these parts and you can't locate them from any source, your only option is to convert the engine to the battery ignition system. A small motorcycle battery or a rechargeable 12 volt sealed lead acid (SLA) battery with a minimum 4AH (Amp Hour) rating will need to be required to power the ignition, and with no charging system, a portable battery charger will need to be used to keep the battery fully charged when the tractor is not in use so the ignition will produce a strong spark. Avoid using a high-output/performance low saturation coil because these draw more power from the battery.

Universal Magneto Ignition Coil for various engines with points, condenser/capacitor and coil under the flywheel. For Kohler K-series flathead cast iron block, most smaller aluminum block Tecumseh and Clinton engines with coil/ignition stator under flywheel. Replaces Tecumseh part #'s 29632, 30546, 30560, 30560A, 610768; Tecnamotor # 1633.0001; Kohler #'s 220435-S, 47 145 02-S, 47 755 20-S; Clinton # 135-13-990 and Phelon # FG-6240. Spark plug wire molded in coil. Spark plug wire length: 17". NOTE: Usually, the point gap sets at .020", but sometimes it will need to be set as close as .015" just to get a spark. This coil will work even better when used with a Universal Solid State Electronic Ignition Module (see below Ê). The short wire on the coil is for ground, the longer wire connects to the points and condenser/capacitor, and may need to be made longer depending on your application. Click here for identification and wiring diagram for this coil. Dimensions: .400" x .400" square hole (across flats) x 1.630" o.d. x 2.020" length (including the hump for the spark plug wire). If laminations on your stator are too big for the hole in this coil, they can be ground or filed smaller so coil will fit snug, then bend one laminate over to retain coil, or if the laminations are too small, thin strip(s) of steel can be added so coil will fit snug, and coil should produce a strong spark. The coil must fit snug on the laminations to receive the full effect of the magnetic field through the stator from the rotating magnet(s) to fully energize the windings for a strong spark. Do not enlarge the hole in the coil! How magneto coils produce a spark. NOTE: The electronic transistorized ignition modules (below ) can be substituted for the points and condenser/capacitor for a stronger and more stable spark, quicker starts, and virtually trouble- and maintenance-free magneto ignition system.

  • High quality aftermarket universal-fit coil. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 220435-S (listed for model K91). $107.65 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 47 145 02-S (listed for model K181). $128.40 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 47 755 20-S (listed for model K181). $133.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Universal Solid State Electronic Ignition Modules for Magneto Ignition Systems -

  • Upgrade the magneto ignition system on virtually any engine with the latest technology! Do away with the points and condenser/capacitor, and install a solid state ignition module. It should be the end of the ignition problems. The points and condenser/capacitor is not to be connected to the coil or module. They need to be removed from the engine and plug the points pushrod hole (Briggs & Stratton or Kohler engines).
  • There is absolutely no difference how these modules work. They all work the same. Kind of like the difference between the Chevy, Dodge and Ford vehicles. These are universal and high performance. They improve engine performance by stabilizing the spark, much like crank trigger electronic ignition does, except the detector/trigger target is the magnets on or underneath the flywheel and the coil laminations. These modules have a durable die-cast aluminum housing. They all produce a strong spark even at cranking speeds, allows the coil to produce 100% voltage. Weather-proof and very reliable. Ignition timing is automatically set. No kick-back and no timing adjustment required. Works excellent with virtually any magneto ignition coil!
  • Suitable for use with most 2 leg or 3 leg magneto coils and with a flywheel having one or two magnets mounted internally or externally, and with coil mounted underneath or outside of flywheel. Works great regardless of the polarity of the magnets, too. Works on most lawn mowers, chain saws, trimmers, garden tillers, snow throwers, brush cutters, various one or two cylinder outboard boat motors, etc., with points and condenser/capacitor ignition. But will not work with most Stihl trimmers and chain saws, or when the ignition coil is energized by a generator that gets its power from the magnet in the flywheel, such as various outboard boat motors. Usually, the coil don't need replacing when substituting the points and condenser/capacitor with one of these solid state ignition modules. If the engine ran, then the coil is obviously good.
  • Works only with magneto type ignition coils originally connected to contact points and a condenser/capacitor. They will not work with solid state ignition (CDI) coils, battery ignition coils or with flywheels having a ring of magnets mounted internally to which the ignition coil (mounted underneath flywheel also) operates off of, such as the bigger aluminum block Tecumseh engines (8hp and up). Engines can't start under full compression and with advanced ignition timing. One or the other must be "suppressed" in order for the engine to crank over without "kicking back" to start. Either it needs to have a compression release to relieve about half the compression, then the compression will return to full upon start up, or the timing needs to be positioned at TDC, then it can automatically advance upon start up. (With the module, as each magnet pass the coil, it'll produce a spark. And if the spark don't occur at the precise time with the piston at a certain position in the cylinder, the engine will either "kick back" or will not run.) "Kick back" occurs when the crankshaft/flywheel suddenly and violently rebounds or rotates in the opposite direction, which is could bend or break the starter armature shaft or the aluminum starter housing. If the magnets for the charging system won't interfere with the magneto coil(s), then these modules should work well. But if the magneto coil(s) operate off the same magnets for the charging system, then neither module won't work. The modules senses when the magnet pass the coil and that's when it makes the spark. If a bunch of magnets continually pass the coil, then the coil will produce an array of sparks.
  • How the timing is automatically set and how it works: First of all, with points, the point gap determines where the ignition timing is set (on systems with a fixed or non-adjustable ignition coil). Therefore, the spark occurs when the magnet in the flywheel pass the coil laminations the moment the points open. But with no points, the magnet still pass the coil laminations at the same moment, which sends an electrical current through a transistor and circuitry within these modules. This current is sent in the form of a signal to the module; within, a transistor opens the primary circuit in the coil and the spark occurs. All this happens at the speed of electricity, which can be anywhere from about 50% to 99% of the speed of light, depending upon the wire connections and quality of the circuitry. Either module provides unlimited RPM. The conventional points and condenser/capacitor ignition system is less responsive.
  • Each module has two wire connections. One wire connects to the ignition coil and the other wire connects to the engine/chassis ground with use of a supplied mounting screw. Scroll down for wiring diagrams and installation instructions Ê.
    • Solid State Ignition Module w/One Terminal. $17.00 each, plus shipping and handling.
    • Solid State Ignition Module w/Two Terminals. $20.00 each, plus shipping and handling.
    • OEM Kohler Solid State Ignition Module, part # 25 757 10-S. $56.87 each, plus shipping & handling. Return to a previous page or paragraph.

Universal Magneto Solid State Transistorized Electronic Ignition Module
Wiring Diagram and Installation Instructions Ê

These modules should work very well with most magneto ignition coils. However, a new coil is recommended to use with this module. If a used coil is utilized, a weak spark may occur. This module is not for use on engines equipped with battery ignition, solid state ignition coils or multiple magnets under the flywheel with ignition coil under the flywheel, too.

Aftermarket Module with One Terminal and OEM Kohler Modules -

Secure the modules with the self-tapping screw to the engine sheet metal with good ventilation and air-flow and so each module is grounded. Fasten the brass lever of the Kohler module with its mounting screw so the lever will make contact with the center button on the module to kill the engine.

Disconnect or cut-off the points and condenser (ignition) wire from the coil (leave long). Connect this wire to the supplied long wire to the terminal of the aftermarket module and to the kill switch, or connect the ignition wire to the black wire on the Kohler module. Use the supplied wire nut to connect the two wires together. Replace the blower housing (if removed), crank the engine rapidly and check for spark at the spark plug's tip. If no spark, recheck the wiring for proper or correct connections.

Aftermarket Module with Two Terminals -

Use the supplied short wire with the female connector and ring connector to connect to the negative terminal of the module to engine ground with the supplied self-tapping screw. Secure the module with the self-tapping screw to the engine sheet metal with good ventilation and air-flow.

Disconnect or cut-off the points and condenser wire from the coil (leave long). Connect this wire to the supplied long wire to the positive terminal of module and to the kill switch. Use the supplied wire nut to connect the two wires together. Fasten the module to the sheet metal of the engine Replace the blower housing (if removed), crank the engine rapidly and check for spark at the spark plug's tip. If no spark, recheck the wiring for proper or correct connections.

Points Pushrod/Plunger Hole Plugs and Block-Off Plate. Use either of the items below Ê to plug or block-off the points pushrod/plunger hole in Briggs & Stratton or Kohler engines when doing away with the points and condenser/capacitor, and converting engine for use with a Universal Solid State Ignition Module, crank trigger electronic ignition or from Kohler K-series ignition to Kohler Magnum solid state ignition. Use needle-nose pliers to hold the plug and a small hammer to tap it in the hole in the block. Fits very tight. For the block-off plate, use RTV silicone sealant to prevent oil leaking and OEM points mounting screws to secure in place. Cup plug no longer available from Kohler (25 139 51-S). NOTE: Instead of using any of these items, remove the points and points pushrod. Place the pushrod on a flat, hard surface, and use a sharp cold chisel and hammer to lightly create some knurled raised places on it. Then insert the pushrod in the block and it may need to driven in with the hammer. The knurled places will retain the pushrod in the block. An original, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise these for use on a Kohler engine. Please accept no other advertised copycat products of this kind..
  • 3/16" Plug. Fits all single cylinder Kohler K-series and K482, K532 and K582 opposed twin cylinder engines. OEM Briggs & Stratton part # 692882. $6.00 each, plus shipping and handling.
  • 17/64" Plug. Fits Briggs & Stratton opposed twin cylinder engines, and can be used for Kohler opposed twin cylinder engine models KT17, KT17 series 2, KT19 and KT19 series 2 with points pushrod hole drilled-out (enlarged) to 17/64" (.2656") diameter x .3/8" deep for this plug to fit snug. OEM Briggs & Stratton part # 231262. $8.00 each, plus shipping and handling.
  • Block-Off Plate. Made of 1/8" steel. A-1 Miller part. $4.00 each, plus shipping and handling. Return to previous page or paragraph.
Two Wire Semiconductor Diodes. Either can be used to excite or energize field windings in a belt-driven automotive alternator or direct-drive 120/240 AC volt portable generator when powered by a small engine so alternator/generator will produce electricity as soon as engine starts. Can also be used as a rectifier in a small engine 3 amp non-regulated stator alternator charging system to convert alternating current (AC) to direct current (DC) to recharge the battery and/or power low-amperage electrical accessories. Not needed to power lights or an electric PTO clutch.
  • High quality aftermarket. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Briggs & Stratton part # 393814. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Diode kit. OEM Kohler part # 25 755 31-S. $12.52 each, plus shipping & handling.
AC Voltage Meter/Monitor. Designed to plug into any 120 volt wall receptacle/outlet, backup house generator or portable generator to provide a continuous, accurate reading of the AC line voltage. Use this meter to set the engine governored speed so generator will produce 120 volts to prevent from under-powering or over-powering electrical equipment.
  • $21.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Ignition Coils. NOTE: Most failures of battery ignition coils is caused by overcharging of the electrical system due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery. Or the use of aged and deteriorated suppression/carbon core spark plug wire and/or an old resistor-type spark plug will also cause a good coil to eventually fail because the secondary windings within the coil must build up more voltage, which cause the windings to overheat and eventually burn up from producing excessive voltage to fire the plug. Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an amp gauge to keep an eye on the charging system.

High Quality Canister-Type 6 Volt Ignition Coil w/1.0 ohm internal primary resistor. Use in 6 volt ignition system with points/distributor ignition (automotive, farm tractor, etc.) or crank trigger electronic ignition with the high-output/performance low saturation GM HEI electronic ignition control module/unit (ICU) , metal core spark plug wire and non-resistor/copper core spark plug gapped at .025" for a strong spark. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

High Quality Canister-Type Standard-Output 12 volt Ignition Coils w/1.5 ohm internal primary resistor. Use with points/distributor ignition (automotive, farm tractor, etc.) or can be used with A-1 Miller's custom crank trigger electronic ignition systems. Set spark plug gap at .035" with this coil.

  • Used and in excellent condition 1.5 ohm coil with mounting bracket. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • New 1.5 ohm coil without mounting bracket. (Reuse OEM bracket.) $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • New 1.5 ohm coil with mounting bracket. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

High Quality Canister-Type Standard-Output 12 volt Ignition Coils w/3.0 ohm internal primary resistor and mounting bracket. Use on small engines (Kohler, Tecumseh, etc.) with points and one standard capacity condenser/capacitor to prevent excessive burning of points contacts for general lawn and garden work or can be used with A-1 Miller's custom crank trigger electronic ignition systems. Set spark plug gap at .035" with this coil.

  • Used and in excellent condition 3.0 or 4.0 ohm coil with mounting bracket. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • New 3.0 ohm coil. Replaces Kohler part # 41 519 21-S. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Standard-Output 12 volt Ignition Coil w/3.0 ohm internal primary resistor and with mounting bracket. OEM Kohler part # 41 519 21-S; replaces John Deere part # AM38411, Tecumseh part # 32080. $88.61 each, plus shipping & handling.

High-Output/Performance Low Saturation 12 Volt, 30,000 Volt Output Bosch Blue Ignition Coil w/3.0 ohm internal primary resistor and mounting bracket. Vibration-Resistant Epoxy-Filled. Use with points and two standard capacity condensers/capacitors or one high capacity/performance condenser/capacitor for full coil saturation and a strong spark so engine will accelerate to full speed, or can be used with A-1 Miller's custom crank trigger electronic ignition system. Set spark plug gap at .035" with this coil. This genuine Bosch blue coil is epoxy filled with a steel casing. All epoxy filled or molded epoxy coils will hold up to severe vibrations, can be mounted in any position and will not leak oil (because there is no oil). $55.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Special Size Stainless Steel Nut for small terminals on 99% of canister-type ignition coils. Replace a lost nut, no need to purchase a new coil. Includes split lock washer. Use with 5/16" or 8mm socket. .30¢ each, plus shipping & handling.

Brass Ignition Coil Terminal. Fits female coil tower. No need to purchase a new complete spark plug wire. Center prong installs into metal-core or suppression/carbon-core conductor of spark plug wire. No need to strip the insulation and bend the center conductor over for contact. .50¢ each, plus shipping & handling.

Straight Ignition Coil Boot. No need to purchase a new complete spark plug wire. Install easily on 7mm size spark plug wire with WD-40, motor oil, gear oil or lubricating grease. High quality neoprene rubber.

  • Fits 5/8" diameter female coil tower. .75¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Fits 3/4" diameter female coil tower. .75¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
New 1.6 Ohm Ballast Resistor for use with any 12 volt ignition coil not having an internal resistor (above È) to prevent excessive burning of points contacts, or use with the Chrysler / Dodge / Plymouth electronic ignition control module/unit (ICU) , or connect with coil having a 1.2 ohm internal primary resistor to prevent burning up the Dynatek Dyna S or PerTronix Ignitor ignition control sensor/modules. Install between the coil positive (+) terminal and wire coming from the ignition switch to the coil. This will allow the points to possibly last the life of the engine. NOTE: Ignition resistors with a higher ohms value are known as "Points Savers." The higher the ohms primary resistance in an ignition coil or a ballast resistor has, the longer the ignition points will last (as long as the points are installed clean, and doesn't become contaminated with dust, oil, water, etc.). Any 12 volt ignition coil with a 3.0 ohm internal primary resistor connected to a minimum 1.6 ohm ballast resistor when used in a points and condenser/capacitor ignition system will allow the points to possibly last the life of the engine. Because the increased resistance allows a very low current/voltage to pass through the contacts in the points. The ignition system will still produce a strong spark because an average small engine requires only a fraction of voltage from the coil. This is best to used with general lawn and garden, snow removal, etc., and not for competitive pulling. Return to previous section.
  • $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Battery Ignition Coils and Spark Plug Wires specifically for Kohler twin cylinder engine models KT17, KT17 series 2, KT19 and KT19 series 2. But can also be used on Kohler twin cylinder engine models K482, K532, K582, K660/K662, Onan twin cylinder engines or Harley-Davidson motorcycles with a fabricated bracket. Each coil below has 4.0 ohm internal primary resistor. Can be used with points and condenser or A-1 Miller's custom crank trigger ignition system. NOTE: Most failures of battery-powered ignition coils is caused by overcharging of the electrical system due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery will cause a good coil to eventually fail because the secondary windings within the coil overheat and eventually burn up from producing excessive voltage to fire the plug(s). Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an amp gauge to keep an eye on the charging system.
  • High quality chrome-plated ignition coil with metal core spark plug wires. Includes: (1) dual tower chrome-plated ignition coil, (2) rubber spark plug wire grommets, (2) plastic thread-on coil boots, (2) 90º spark plug boots w/terminals, and (2) 18" length metal core spark plug wires (can be shortened if desired). Coil dimensions: 4-1/4" length (excluding towers) x 2-1/8" body width x 2-1/4" tower end band width. Replaces Kohler part # 52 755 48-S. $84.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • High quality aftermarket coil with metal core spark plug wires. Replaces Kohler part # 52 755 48-S. $118.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler coil with spark plug wires; part # 52 755 48-S. $250.71 each, plus shipping and handing.

Spark Plug Wires for above È coils. NOTE: Most OEM Kohler metal core spark plug wires rarely lose resistance, resulting in a weak spark. The only time they need replacing is when damaged beyond use. All spark plug wires can be checked for resistance with an analog or digital multimeter.

  • 11" length. (for #2/left cylinder when facing flywheel.) OEM Kohler part # 52 348 03-S. $18.66 each, plus shipping & handing.
  • 19" length. (for #1/right cylinder when facing flywheel.) OEM Kohler part # 52 348 04-S. $20.27 each, plus shipping & handing.
High Quality, Molded Epoxy, Battery-Powered Ignition Coils for Kohler twin cylinder engine models K482, K532, K582, K660/K662 and Harley-Davidson motorcycles. But can also be used on Kohler twin cylinder engine models KT17, KT17 series 2, KT19 and KT19 series 2 or Onan twin cylinder engines with a fabricated bracket. Can be used with points and condenser or A-1 Miller's custom crank trigger electronic ignition system. NOTE: Coil mounting bracket not included - discontinued from Kohler; if needed, new mounting holes can be drilled through Harley coil's laminations next to existing holes to match the holes in OEM mounting plate, or new holes can be drilled in the OEM mounting plate to match the holes in the Harley coil. And there is no positive (+) or negative (–) connections on the two small terminals. They can be connected either way. And most failures of battery-powered ignition coils is caused by overcharging of the electrical system due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery will cause a good coil to eventually fail because the secondary windings within the coil overheat and eventually burn up from producing excessive voltage to fire the plug(s). Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an amp gauge to keep an eye on the charging system.
  • High quality aftermarket 12 volt Harley-Davidson coil with 5.0 ohm internal primary resistor; 20,000 volt output; suitable for use with points and standard capacity condenser/capacitor or crank trigger electronic ignition. Part # 31609-65A. $55.00 each, plus shipping & handing.
  • High quality aftermarket 12 volt Harley-Davidson coil with 3.0 ohm internal primary resistor; 30,000 volt output; suitable for use with points and high-capacity condenser/capacitor or crank trigger electronic ignition. Part # 31609-80. $55.00 each, plus shipping & handing.
  • OEM Kohler Coil, part # 277375-S. $242.15 each, plus shipping and handing.

Spark Plug Wires for Kohler engine models KT17, KT17 series 2, KT19 and KT19 series 2, K482, K532, K582, K660/K662, or Onan twin cylinder engines.

  • For K482, K532 and K582 engines with battery ignition. (Unknown length.) OEM Kohler part # 48 348 04-S. $21.65 each, plus shipping & handling.
Complete 7mm Diameter Spark Plug Wires with connectors and boots for above È coils. NOTE: Most OEM Kohler and metal core spark plug wires rarely lose resistance, resulting in a weak spark. The only time they need replacing is when damaged beyond use. All spark plug wires can be checked with an analog or digital multimeter. Also, certain spark plug wires below Ê don't have the terminal and boot for the coil installed. Each spark plug wire needs to be safely routed from the spark plug to the coil, allow some length for flexibility, and may need to be cut off if excessively long. Then install the boot on the wire that fits your coil best, strip off about 1/2" of insulation, bend the wire over, install the terminal over the wire and on the insulation, then lightly crimp the terminal with pliers. The squeezing pressure of the terminal in the coil tower ensures the wire will stay in the receptacle.
  • 90º Spark Plug Boot and Terminal Kit. No need to purchase a new complete spark plug wire. Prong in terminal penetrates center metal-core or suppression/carbon-core conductor of spark plug wire. No need to strip the insulation and bend the center conductor over for contact. Install easily on 7mm size spark plug wire with WD-40, motor oil, gear oil or lubricating grease. $1.20 each kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Brass Ignition Coil Terminal. Fits female coil tower. No need to purchase a new complete spark plug wire. Center prong installs into metal-core or suppression/carbon-core conductor of spark plug wire. No need to strip the insulation and bend the center conductor over for contact. .50¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Straight Ignition Coil Boot. No need to purchase a new complete spark plug wire. Install easily on 7mm size spark plug wire with WD-40, motor oil, gear oil or lubricating grease. High quality neoprene rubber.
    • Fits 5/8" diameter female coil tower. .75¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
    • Fits 3/4" diameter female coil tower. .75¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
  • High quality aftermarket suppression/carbon core spark plug wires. These work great with battery ignition for ordinary lawn and garden equipment, the spark plug will still receive a strong spark and should last a long time. Each come with terminals, angled spark plug boot and straight coil boot. For the size of the coil boot, please specify if your coil has a 5/8" or 3/4" diameter center tower. Not for use on Kohler engine models KT17, KT17 series 2, KT19 and KT19 series 2, K482, K532 or K582 due to possible coil failure.
    • 13" length. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • 22" length. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • High performance stranded metal core spark plug wires. Each rated at zero ohms resistance entire length. 25-1/2" length. Don't be fooled by the gray color, this wire provides 100% voltage to the spark plug! Can be used for Kohler engine models KT17, KT17 series 2, KT19 and KT19 series 2, K482, K532 and K582 (with wires cut to OEM length), or for competition pulling. Comes with terminals, one angled spark plug boot, one straight and one angled coil boot. Replaces Kohler part # 238057-S. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • For Kohler engine models K90 through K361, K482, K532, K582 and K660/K662 with battery ignition. OEM Kohler part # 238057-S. $35.60 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • For K90 through K361 engines with battery ignition. (Unknown length.) OEM Kohler part # 41 348 06-S. $19.10 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • For K90 through K361, K482, K532, K582 engines with battery ignition. (Unknown length.) OEM Kohler part # 48 348 03-S. $26.30 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • For K482, K532 and K582 engines with battery ignition. (Unknown length.) OEM Kohler part # 48 348 04-S. $21.65 each, plus shipping & handling.
Complete Battery-Powered Ignition Conversion Kits - When Kohler's OEM magneto or Breakerless Ignition fails, the engine can be converted to a battery-powered ignition system. Battery-powered ignition systems last longer, produces a stronger spark, and when a part goes bad, it doesn't cost much to replace. It's a reliable, simple design and there's no guesswork about it. FYI: Battery-powered ignition conversion kits are intended mainly for various older engines when the OEM magneto or Breakerless Ignition no longer produce a spark, replacement parts are not available or are very expensive (cost prohibitive). Also, the most hassle when using battery-powered ignition without a charging system integrated with the engine to recharge the battery is the use of a remote battery charger. And eventually a new battery will need to be purchased, because they only last a few years. For a battery to power the ignition, a small, lightweight and rechargeable 12 volt sealed lead acid (SLA) battery with a minimum 4Ah (Amp Hour) rating or a small motorcycle battery can be used. Click here for battery-powered ignition wiring diagrams.
Single Cylinder (Flathead) Engines - Convert from Magneto Ignition to Battery-Powered Ignition. Convert virtually any single cylinder, air-cooled cast iron or various aluminum block small gas engine, such as Kohler, Tecumseh, Briggs & Stratton, etc., that originally came with a magneto ignition system (having points, condenser/capacitor and ignition coil that has voltage generated by a permanent magnet in the flywheel, instead of being powered by a battery or a self-generating charging coil) into a battery-powered ignition system. Kit includes: new standard-output (20,000 volt) 3.0 ohm canister ignition coil w/mounting bracket, new battery-ignition condenser/capacitor, 22" length 16 gauge coil-to-points wire w/grommet and terminals and 22" length suppression/carbon core spark plug wire. NOTE: Must use a universal automotive start/ignition key switch, or an ON/OFF toggle- or key-switch to power the ignition and a push-button switch to crank the engine. Reuse existing ignition points, but set gap at .020" or set ignition timing at 20º BTDC, and reuse same type of spark plug, but set gap at .035" for a stronger spark. See wiring diagram below Ê.
  • Kit with all high quality aftermarket parts. $44.50 per kit, plus shipping and handling.
  • Kit with all OEM Kohler parts. $153.55 per kit, plus shipping and handling.


Convert from Breakerless Ignition to Battery-Powered Points and Condenser Ignition for Kohler engine models K181, K241, K301 or K321. (K341 and K361 engines originally did not come with Breakerless Ignition.) Instead of replacing defective cost-prohibitive Breakerless Ignition components, convert your engine to the inexpensive, low-cost and reliable points and condenser/capacitor ignition. Kit includes: new standard-output (20,000 volt) 3.0 ohm canister ignition coil w/mounting bracket, new ignition points, new condenser/capacitor, 22" length 16 gauge coil-to-points wire w/grommet and terminals, points pushrod, points cover, points cover gasket and four 10-24 UNC screws. Use the same OEM spark plug wire and ignition switch that came with the tractor or equipment. NOTE: Use a pointed #6 self-tapping sheet metal or drywall screw and a mini nail puller pry bar to remove the brass block-off plug from points pushrod hole. Do not force the screw into the plug or the plug could go inside the crankcase! Just gently thread it in a few threads, that's all it takes to pull the plug out. But if the engine block has a Briggs & Stratton points plunger plug, the plug can be removed by using a mini nail puller pry bar as well. May need to use a hammer to drive the wedge under the head of the plug to get a good grip on it to pull it out. And if there seems to be no movement for opening and closing of the points, there may be some metal flashing blocking the points pushrod hole where the factory didn't drill all the through the hole. Because all Kohler engines with Breakerless Ignition have the camshaft with the points lobe. Only the Magnum engines have the cam without the points lobe. After this is remedied, set points gap at .020" or set ignition timing at 20º BTDC, and reuse same type of spark plug, but set gap at .035" for a stronger spark. See wiring diagram below Ê. IMPORTANT: The wire that comes from the stator under the flywheel for Kohler Trigger Module or Tecumseh Solid State Ignition Module generates about 250 volts while the engine is running at full governored speed (serious). Do not touch this wire (terminal) with one bare hand and the engine itself with your other hand while the engine is running! It is not needed for any of my crank trigger ignition systems. So snip off this wire or tape up the terminal to prevent a short circuit or electrocution.

  • Kit with high quality aftermarket parts. $64.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Kit with OEM Kohler parts. $170.78 per kit, plus shipping & handling.

Click Here for a Custom Maintenance-Free Crank Trigger Ignition System for Competition Pulling Only that Operates Off the PTO End of the Engine. (Updated 6/9/17) Click Here to Convert from Breakerless Ignition or Points/Condenser Ignition to a Custom Maintenance-Free Crank Trigger Electronic Ignition System that Operates off the Flywheel End of the Engine. (Updated 6/9/17)
Universal 15 and 20 Amp Gauges / Ammeter Kits. Install one of these gauges to know exactly what the charging system on your engine is doing. Having an amp gauge installed is very important in monitoring the charging system to prevent premature failure of electrical components. By the time you smell something burning or see smoke, it may be too late. If the charging system continues to charge (+) with no gradual "falling back" to zero on the gauge (if installed), this will send too much voltage to the battery, which could eventually burn up the cells, or the ignition coil, which could eventually burn up the primary windings. Overcharging of the electrical system could also burn up the electronic ignition control module/unit (ICU) (crank trigger), burn out light bulbs, electric PTO clutch and any other electrical accessories. Gauges registers up to 15 or 20 amps of charge, depending on total output amperage of stator or alternator. As battery becomes fully charged, needle slowly moves from positive side (+) to zero (0). If no charge goes to the battery, needle will stay on negative side (–). Easy 2-wire connections. Connect the positive (+) terminal on back of gauge to the battery positive (+) post, and connect the negative (–) terminal on back of gauge to the wire going to the ignition switch that provides power to the ignition and all accessories. If the wires/connections are reversed, and if the charging system is in good working condition, the gauge will show discharge (–) instead of charge (+). Use minimum 12 gauge stranded wire. Non-lighted gauge. Requires 2" diameter mounting hole and comes with mounting clamp and nuts. 30 amp gauge kit discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # 48 755 18-S. Return to previous section.
  • 15 Amp Gauge / Ammeter Kit. Requires 2-1/4" diameter mounting hole. $19.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 20 Amp Gauge / Ammeter Kit. Requires 2-1/16" diameter mounting hole. $22.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

How to Accurately Set the [Point] Ignition Timing on Virtually Any Gas Engine - Top of page

First of all, widening or narrowing of the points gap is how the ignition timing is adjusted. Widening the gap advances the timing and narrowing it retards the timing. On a Kohler engine, adjust the points by first positioning the piston at TDC on the compression stroke. Then slightly loosen the set screw on the points and place the flat screwdriver in the slot on the upper part of the points bracket to widen and narrow the point gap. Then use a .020" feeler gauge to set the gap. If the screw that fastens the points to the bracket is hard to get at with a screwdriver on the equipment, then install a socket head (Allen) head screw and use an angled hex key (Allen) wrench to loosen and tighten the screw that clamps the points in place. Delayed acceleration of the engine indicates either low compression, or the ignition timing is retarded and not set at 20º BTDC.

Engines can't start under full compression and with advanced ignition timing. One or the other must be "suppressed" in order for the engine to crank over without "kicking back" to start. Either it needs to have a compression release to relieve about half the compression, then the compression will return to full upon start up, or the timing needs to be positioned at TDC, then it can automatically advance upon start up. On engines with a camshaft having an automatic compression release (ACR), the ignition timing cannot be advanced more than approximately 25º BTDC. If it is, the spark will occur when the exhaust valve opens slightly (to relieve the compression), and the engine may not start or be hard to start. It may pop out the carburetor instead. If the timing needs to be set more than 25º BTDC (for methanol fuel), the ACR will need to be removed from the camshaft, and to make the engine easier to crank over and start under full compression, a high torque gear starter, heavy [steel] flywheel, along with separate starter and ignition switches will need to be used to prevent "kick back" when attempting to start the engine. If an engine "kicks back" too many times when attempting to start it, this could bend or break the OEM Kohler starter motor armature shaft, or break the aluminum casing! The same thing can happen to an automotive starter!

The point gap on virtually all 4-cycle small gas engines, rather if it has one or two cylinders, is set at .020" using a feeler gauge with the piston positioned at TDC on the compression stroke. This is when the valves (#1 cylinder for a twin cylinder) are fully closed. This sets the ignition timing approximately at 20º BTDC (Kohler engines), and is the most easiest and simplest way to basically set the timing. A better way is to statically (engine not running) set the timing. But the most accurate way is use an automotive strobe timing light to dynamically set the timing. The timing light connects to the battery and spark plug wire.

To statically (engine not running) set the ignition timing on an engine with points, condenser/capacitor and a stock flywheel, use an ohmmeter (d) (make sure the battery is fully charged) or a battery-powered test light in the points only (the points will act as a switch). To make this happen...

  1. Connect one lead of the ohmmeter or test light to the ignition points terminal screw or the points wire (disconnect it from the ignition coil first) and the other lead to engine/chassis ground so that the points will serve as a switch to activate the meter or light. To test the connection, set the points gap at .020" with a feeler gauge, then slowly rotate the crankshaft (flywheel) back and forth when the points open and close to see if the meter is activated or light comes on and goes off. IMPORTANT: Do not use sandpaper or emery cloth to clean points contacts! These will leave a gritty residue between the contacts, causing a faulty connection. A thin, steel points file or steel fingernail file is the only way to thoroughly remove any debris or oxidation from points contacts. Then use electrical contact cleaner, brake cleaner or cleaning solvent (paint thinner) and 150± psi compressed air to clean any oil and metal filings from the points contacts.
  2. On Kohler flywheels, there should be a T and an S stamped on the outer edge of the flywheel. Clean the area off, and use a Sharpie metallic silver permanent marker or a paint marker to place a brightly colored mark on the S mark [punched line] so it can be easily seen with the naked eye and with an automotive inductive timing light. The timing light connects to the battery and spark plug wire. T stands for TDC, which is 0º TDC. This is where the ignition timing sets if the engine is equipped with an older two-piece camshaft with a rotating automatic timing advance mechanism (points lobe). And S stands for Spark Advance, which is 20º BTDC. This is where the timing sets if the engine is equipped with a one-piece camshaft that came with an automatic compression release (ACR) mechanism. If there's a timing site hole in the rear of the bearing plate, then the timing marks are on the backside of the flywheel. If the marks can't be seen, then the flywheel will need to be cleaned off and depending on type of camshaft, a brightly colored mark needs to placed at the T (older two-piece camshaft w/automatic timing advance) or S mark (newer one piece camshaft w/automatic compression release). If there is no visible S mark, then it's located exactly 1-5/8" (1.625") above or before the T mark. Billet steel flywheels with no timing marks must be degreed-in with a degree wheel and piston stop to create new timing marks.
  3. Slowly rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand, and when the timing mark on the flywheel (S for ACR camshaft or T for two-piece camshaft) is aligned with the center of the site hole or raised mark on the bearing plate and at the same time, observe the ohmmeter (make sure the battery is fully charged) or battery-powered test light. The ohmmeter should show an intermittent connection or the test light should flicker. If necessary, widen or narrow the point gap until the points make contact the exact moment the timing marks are aligned. It is at this position when the ignition timing is accurately set. No further adjustments is required.
  4. Timing for gas fuels can vary from 20º-22º BTDC for low octane; 100% automotive gas, to 30º BTDC for high octane race gas, aviation gas, or automotive gas w/10% alcohol.
  5. Timing for E-85 - 25º BTDC.
  6. Timing for METHANOL fuels - if the spark plug is positioned in the center of the combustion chamber, set the timing at 24-26º BTDC. If the plug is located closer to the exhaust valve, the timing needs to be set around 30º BTDC. And if the plug is directly over the exhaust valve, the timing needs to be set at 38º BTDC to obtain full power. 38º BTDC is the maximum setting for methanol or gas fuels.
  7. It'll be a good thing to check the ignition timing periodically as the points contacts wear.
  8. Engines can't start under full compression and with advanced ignition timing. One or the other must be "suppressed" in order for the engine to crank over without "kicking back" to start. Either it needs to have a compression release to relieve about half the compression, then the compression will return to full upon start up, or the timing needs to be positioned at TDC, then it can automatically advance upon start up. On engines with a camshaft having an automatic compression release (ACR), the ignition timing cannot be advanced more than approximately 25º BTDC. If it is, the spark will occur when the exhaust valve opens slightly (to relieve the compression), and the engine may not start or be hard to start. It may pop out the carburetor instead. If the timing needs to be set more than 25º BTDC (for methanol fuel), the ACR will need to be removed from the camshaft, and to make the engine easier to crank over and start under full compression, a high torque gear starter, heavy [steel] flywheel, along with separate starter and ignition switches will need to be used to prevent "kick back" when attempting to start the engine. If an engine "kicks back" too many times when attempting to start it, this could bend or break the OEM Kohler starter motor armature shaft, or break the aluminum casing! The same thing can happen to an automotive starter!

The most accurate way to set the ignition timing is dynamically. This is with the engine running and an automotive strobe timing light. The timing light connects to the battery and spark plug wire. Connect the timing light (if it has an adjustable degree wheel, set it at 0º), then start the engine. With the engine running at idle speed, shine the timing light through the site hole in the flywheel shroud to see the painted "S" mark on the flywheel and the raised mark on the bearing plate. When the marks are perfectly aligned, this is when the timing is set exactly at 20º BTDC. This cannot be done on an aftermarket steel flywheel or [starter] pulley on the PTO end of the crankshaft with no timing marks.

The ignition timing greatly depends on where the spark plug is located in the combustion chamber. Most plugs are centered in the combustion chamber. But if it's closer to the exhaust valve, the timing must be advanced slightly more. Location of the spark plug in the combustion chamber and proper ignition timing are two things that's very important in engine performance. Actually, it's best to set the timing with some test pulls or with the engine connected to an engine dynamometer.

Setting the Ignition Timing with an Automotive Non-Inductive or Inductive Strobe Timing Light -

NOTE: The above È method is sufficiently accurate and useful in building a fresh engine and not having to mess with adjusting the points just to get the engine started for the first time. However, after getting the engine started, it's always a good thing to use either an automotive non-inductive or inductive strobe timing light to check to see if the timing is set exactly where it's supposed to be. The timing light connects to the battery and spark plug wire. This is called setting the timing dynamically. Use a timing light when the timing marks on both the bearing plate and flywheel are perfectly aligned. The ignition timing setting for Kohler engines burning GAS is 20-22º BTDC. NEVER run over-advanced timing (beyond the 22º setting) with gas just to try to get "more power" out of an engine! All that'll do is seriously overheat the engine and ruin parts. Return to previous paragraph or website.

To use a non-inductive strobe timing light (these are very old and are considered obsolete because they produce a dim light), connect one lead on the spark plug itself (on a twin cylinder engine, connect it on the #1 cylinder spark plug) and connect the other lead on the coil, then start the engine.

To use an inductive strobe timing light, the engine can be running while connecting the clamps on the battery posts in their respective order, then connect the inductive pickup on the spark plug wire. On a twin cylinder engine, connect it on the #1 cylinder spark plug wire. (The #1 cylinder is the one closest to the flywheel.) If using an inductive strobe timing light with an advance adjustment, make sure it's set at 0 (zero) before setting the timing at the S mark.

Engines can't start under full compression and with advanced ignition timing. One or the other must be "suppressed" in order for the engine to crank over without "kicking back" to start. Either it needs to have a compression release to relieve about half the compression, then the compression will return to full upon start up, or the timing needs to be positioned at TDC, then it can automatically advance upon start up. If an engine has a compression release on the camshaft and the valve clearance is set right (at least for the exhaust valve), chances are the engine will not "kick back" when attempting to start the engine. "Kick back" occurs when the crankshaft/flywheel suddenly and violently rebounds or rotates in the opposite direction, which is could bend or break the starter armature shaft or the aluminum starter housing. Therefore, this would be a false indication that the timing is set correctly. Always check it with a timing light to make sure!

The ignition on Kohler engines aren't like the ignition on most automotive engines. You don't dwell-in the points on a Kohler engine. Instead, you set the point gap at .020" as the initial setting just to get the engine running. Then the ignition timing is set by widening or narrowing the points gap until the timing is at 20º BTDC by observing the alignment timing marks on the flywheel.

NOTE: If the ignition timing is set right and the engine kicks back when trying to start, sometimes, but not always, the compression release isn't releasing enough compression from the combustion chamber. Try setting the valve clearances to specs and see if that makes a difference. If the timing is retarded to reduce the possibility of kickback, then the engine will run sluggish and not produce enough power. Return to previous paragraph or website.

Isn't it a pain having to constantly adjust or set the ignition timing on a Kohler pulling engine? To fix this problem, I think the best ignition points to use for a Kohler pulling engine are ordinary Kohler points. The spring on Kohler points is much stiffer than the one on the GM (Chevrolet) V8 ignition points. I realize that Chevy points are fancy to show off and convenient because they make it so much easier to adjust the ignition timing, but due to normal engine vibrations on a single cylinder engine, they're prone to get out of adjustment. And it's difficult (if at all possible) to lock the adjusting screw in position. If [blue] Loctite is used, this would make them non-adjustable. The adjustment/clamp screw on Kohler points on the other hand, locks the points in position and they will not slip and get out of adjustment whatsoever due to normal single cylinder engine vibration. Also, unlike Chevy points, Kohler points are much easier to cover with the use the OEM Kohler points cover to keep the contacts clean and to prevent a fire.

Another simple way to set the ignition timing is to use a dial indicator to measure the distance of the piston from the top of the block. On the K241 (10hp) Kohler engines, the points just begin to open when the piston is located exactly at .125" BTDC. And on the K301 (12hp), K321 (14hp), K341 (16hp) flathead engines and K361 (18hp OHV) engines, the points just begin to open when the piston is located exactly at .100" BTDC. Distances shown is when the S mark on the flywheel is aligned with the mark on the bearing plate. Take into consideration if the piston doesn't come flush with the top of the block, or if it protrudes out of the cylinder. EXCEPTION: When setting the ignition timing on an older Kohler engine with the old style two-piece camshaft, set the points so they just begin to open with the piston positioned on the compression stroke at 0º TDC (T mark on the flywheel). As soon as the engine starts, the points lobe rotates on the cam pin and flyweights on the cam gear automatically advances the timing to 20º BTDC. Don't set the initial timing at 20º BTDC (S mark) with the old style two-piece camshaft. Due to the absence of a compression release (these engines start under full compression), setting it at 20º BTDC will advance the timing too much and cause the engine to "kick back" when attempting to start the engine. "Kick back" occurs when the crankshaft/flywheel suddenly and violently rebounds or rotates in the opposite direction, which is could bend or break the starter armature shaft or the aluminum starter housing.

How To Read A Dial Indicator -

Dial IndicatorEach mark on the face of a dial indicator represents one thousand of an inch (.001") graduations. The marks with a number (10, 20, 30, etc.) represents every ten thousands (.010"). Depending on the size of the engine, for a reading of .050" or .070" BTDC, first, run the piston up at true TDC, then set the dial indicator at the .050" or .070" mark. Then, slowly rotate the crankshaft in opposite of normal engine rotation until the needle reads 0 degrees BTDC. The needle will move in the counterclockwise direction (back to the 0 degree mark) as the piston moves downward in the cylinder.


Differences in Kohler's flywheel shroudsWhere is the Timing Site Hole in the Flywheel Shroud?

On the small [8"] flywheel without the starter ring gear and with the starter/generator, the timing site hole is on the right when facing the front of the flywheel, or on the same side as the starter/generator. But on the large [9-1/2"] flywheel with the starter ring gear and gear starter, the timing site hole is on the left when facing the front of the flywheel, or on the same side of the carburetor.

To set the ignition timing on the 7hp and 8hp Kohler engines, there's a sight hole in the backside of the bearing plate on the starter/generator side, just behind the flywheel. It has a metal hole cover plug in it. Remove the plug, then slowly rotate the flywheel by hand until you see the S mark. Place a white paint mark on the line. Now connect an automotive strobe timing light, start the engine and note if the mark appears midway in the sight hole. If not, adjust the points until the mark is centered in the hole. This is how you set the ignition timing with a timing light. The timing light connects to the battery and spark plug wire.

It is recommended that a steel flywheel be degreed in on an engine to locate true TDC. Mark the flywheel every 5 degrees out up to 35 degrees BTDC. NOTE: With a steel cam and ground-on point lobe, do not correlate points gap with engine timing – there is a range from approximately 10 degrees BTDC to 40 degrees BTDC! Use a continuity tester to set points to desired ignition timing by gapping points.

Ignition timing must be properly set for any engine for it to produce full power. Ignition timing is set according to when the piston reaches its Before Top Dead Center (BTDC) position in the cylinder on the compression stroke. When measuring the piston distance, take in consideration if a piston protrudes out of the cylinder or if it doesn't come flush with the top of the block. And don't trust strange markings on the flywheel.

For precise accuracy, use an ohmmeter (d) (make sure the battery is fully charged) or a battery-powered test light in the points only (the points will act as a switch), a dial indicator to measure the distance of the piston in the cylinder, fasten a degree wheel to the crankshaft flywheel end and you'll need to fabricate a piston stop. On a flathead engine, to serve as a piston stop, a long reach spark plug can be used, and the cylinder head must be positioned so the spark plug is over the piston.

Tools Needed to Accurately Set the Ignition Timing - FYI - A dial indicator, degree wheel and piston stop are also used in degreeing in the camshaft.

Degree Wheel

The degree wheel is a round disc (usually made of aluminum) with the facing edge marked off in degrees, similar to the markings on a protractor. When used in conjunction with a dial indicator, it's installed on the crankshaft during the engine build to degree the cam in and check for correct valve timing events. It can also be used to check for accurate ignition timing. When in use, a degree wheel is fastened to the front of the crankshaft (automotive engines) or flywheel end (small engines). If it's fastened to the PTO end, it will need to face the engine block and be read from that position. Degree wheels can be purchased off of eBay.

Dial Indicator and Magnetic Base

A dial indicator is necessary to check for correct valve timing to tell precisely when a valve starts to open and the moment it closes. This opening and closing is very critical for high performance engines and cannot be done by feel or by sight. A dial indicator can also be used to set accurate ignition timing in relation to piston travel. Each mark on the face of a dial indicator represents one thousandth of an inch (.001") graduations. The marks with a number (10, 20, 30, etc.) represents every ten thousandths of an inch (.010", .020", .030", etc.). A dial indicator always mounts on top of the engine block. Dial indicators are very precision and delicate instruments. Care must be used in handling one. Dial indicators can be purchased from LittleMachineShop.com.

Piston Stop Tool

A piston stop tool is used to accurately find the piston's true Top Dead Center (TDC) in the engine block. The piston stop tool is always used on the #1 piston, which is closest to the flywheel on a multi-cylinder air-cooled engine, and closest to the front of an automotive engine.

As far as I am aware of, a deck-mounted, flat bar piston stop cannot be purchased from any source. One will need to be made from scratch. To use a very simple piston stop for a flathead engine, if the spark plug is perpendicular (at a 90º angle) with the head, a long-reach (long threaded) spark plug can be used in the head to serve as the bump-stop. Adjustment of the spark plug is used to "stop" the piston. Simply position and fasten the head on the block with a couple of bolts with the plug over the piston. The spark plug can be adjusted up or down to find true top dead center of the piston in relationship with the degree wheel. A blunt-end (not to damage the piston) steel rod may need to be welded on the end of the plug for an extended reach. If a piston pops out of the cylinder at TDC, then install flat washers as needed so the head will clear the piston at TDC.

For a universal deck-mounted, flat bar type of piston stop, the bar should be made of minimum 1/4" thick x 1" wide flat steel or aluminum, drilled with a couple of holes so that it can be fastened to the top of the block with a couple of head bolts, directly over the piston. A minimum 1/4" bolt with a thin jam nut, is threaded in the bar to serve as the bump-stop. Adjustment of the bolt is used to "stop" the piston. If a piston pops out of the cylinder at TDC, then install flat washers as needed so the bar will clear the piston at TDC.

To check and adjust the cam or ignition timing on an OHV (Over Head Valve) engine with the cylinder head installed on the engine block, a low-cost and simple bump-stop piston stop tool can be made from a 14mm spark plug non-fouler. (Spark plug non-foulers are used in automotive engines that burn/consume a lot of oil to help prevent oil-fouling of the spark plugs.) To convert a spark plug non-fouler into a bump-stop for a piston stop...

  1. Acquire a 3/8-24 UNF full-length threaded rod (All-Thread) of the appropriate length depending on depth of combustion chamber and depression in piston.
  2. Drill through the non-fouler with a 21/64" drill bit.
  3. Cut threads through the non-fouler with a 3/8-24 UNF tap.
  4. Weld a "T" handle on the end of the threaded rod to rotate it up and down in the non-fouler.
  5. Place a thin jam nut and flat washer on the threaded rod, insert the threaded rod through the non-fouler to serve as the bump-stop.
  6. To use, the non-fouler will need to be tightened in the head, then the bolt can be adjusted for piston travel in relationship with the degree wheel.

With an aftermarket steel flywheel or a stock flywheel with no timing marks, the most accurate way to set the ignition timing [on virtually any engine] is performed by measuring the distance of the piston before it reaches top dead center with a dial indicator in conjunction with a degree wheel fastened to the crankshaft flywheel end. To learn more, read on....

Find TRUE Top Dead Center (TDC) on an Engine with a Steel Flywheel to Accurately Set the Ignition Timing! Parts needed are a degree wheel and a piston stop. Or on a flathead engine, a long reach spark plug can be used, and the cylinder head can be positioned it so the spark plug is over the piston.

  1. Connect the ohmmeter or test light as described above È.
  2. Remove the cylinder head from the engine.
  3. Fashion a rigid pointer from stiff wire or an old coat hanger and attach it to the engine block. This pointer locates the degrees on the degree wheel.
  4. With a degree wheel installed on the flywheel or PTO end of the crankshaft, and with the flywheel fastened onto the crankshaft, rotate the crankshaft by hand in normal running rotation until the piston at the very top of the cylinder with both valves fully closed (this is the Top Dead Center position on the compression stroke), and adjust the pointer to zero (0º TDC) on the degree wheel.
  5. Now turn the crankshaft opposite the running rotation approximately 15-20 degrees. Install a piston stop on the top of the engine block fastened in place by two head bolts. NOTE: If a piston protrudes out of the cylinder at TDC, then to use a piston stop, you'll need to install several flat washers or a spacer between the piston stop and engine block so the piston will clear it and go past the TDC mark.
  6. Continue to turn the engine in the same direction until the piston comes back up and just touches the piston stop. Make a note of the exact number on the degree wheel that the pointer is on.
  7. Rotate the engine in the other direction (running rotation) until the piston comes back up and touches the piston stop. Again note the number where the pointer is.
  8. Remove the piston stop and rotate the crankshaft to the midpoint of the two marks. At this point the piston is at the true top dead center. Loosen the degree wheel and adjust it so it will read 0º TDC at the pointer. Don't rotate the crankshaft to do this!
  9. Slowly rotate the engine in reverse normal rotation. The test light should be on. If not, adjust the points so it is on.
  10. Rotate the crankshaft by hand in its normal direction until the degree wheel is where you want the timing to be set at (20º), then adjust the points so they just begin to open. The test light should've gone off or flickered by now. If not, set the points so they just start to open and the light flickers. Once the degree wheel is in the proper position, the breaker points should just begin to open. Or, when using crank trigger ignition, check or set the initial timing by positioning the center of the magnetic pickup coil or inductive proximity sensor with the center of the detector/trigger target, rather if it's a small magnet, screw, pin, projection (hump) on the edge of a flywheel or on a rotating disc. It is at this moment when spark occurs. And it's at this point that the ignition timing is set correctly. Mark the flywheel or front pulley where the timing marks are on the degree wheel for setting the timing with an automotive inductive strobe timing light in the future. The timing light connects to the battery and spark plug wire.

Magnetic pickup coils and proximity sensors are very sensitive to mechanical damage (and electrical damage if connected wrong). For magnetic pickup coils, set the air gap/clearance from the detection/trigger target (screw, pin or small raised area on the rotating disc) at .010" - .060" with a brass, plastic, poster board, stainless steel (anything non-magnetic) feeler gauge. And being inductive proximity sensors have a farther detection distance, set the air gap/clearance at .010" - .060". If the gap is wider than specified with either sensor, the engine could misfire at higher RPM. Direct metal contact with either sensor could damage them. When in doubt if a sensor is mechanically damaged, look at the end of it with the strong magnifying glass to see any damage. If it is damaged, it needs to be replaced. A magnetic pickup coil can be tested with a digital multimeter set on 200m DC, with the negative lead of the meter on the white wire of the pickup coil and positive lead on the black wire, then pass a small steel screw or bolt over the end of the magnetic pickup coil. If the meter shows a reading, the pickup coil is in good condition.


How Inductive and Hall Effect Proximity Sensors Work -

The 3-wire inductive and hall effect proximity sensors requires external power and function with three wires: BLUE (power +), BROWN (power +) and BLACK (signal). Proximity Sensors are a like a switch and a small generator. They come in two versions: Normally Open (N/O) and Normally Closed (N/C). (PNP and NPN has nothing to do with whether the sensor is normally open (N/O) or normally closed (N/C). I.E. A PNP sensor may be either N/O or N/C, as can an NPN be either N/O or N/C.) Normally Open is the same as when a mechanical switch is turned off. In other words, the circuit is open or disconnected, and no power is supplied to the electronic ignition control module/unit (ICU) . And Normally Closed is the same as when a mechanical switch is turned on. The circuit is closed or connected, and power is supplied to the electronic ignition control module. A normally open proximity sensor produces electrical current to the ignition module only when it comes in close proximity of a detectable ferrous metal (steel or cast iron) object, then the circuit is closed (LED sensor comes on). Proximity Sensors can only generate electricity when they come in close proximity of a small or narrow detectable iron-based ferrous metal object that a magnet can stick to. They will not work with non-magnetic metals, such as: aluminum, brass, copper, stainless steel, titanium, etc. Normally open proximity sensors are used mainly for crank trigger electronic ignition systems on gas engines. Inductive proximity sensors also work somewhat like metal detectors; if the metal comes close enough to the sensor, with a normally open proximity sensor, the alarm will sound. But a normally closed sensor works opposite.

The "inductive" proximity sensors can only detect iron-based metal objects that a magnet can stick to. They will not work with non-magnetic metals, such as: aluminum, brass, stainless steel, titanium, etc. And the "hall effect" proximity sensors can only detect the presence of a magnetized metal object, such as the head of a ferrous metal steel screw fastening a magnet to a disc or flywheel. Proximity sensors produce electrical current to the module at all times (LED sensor goes off) while external power is supplied to it except when it comes in close proximity of a detectable ferrous metal object, then the circuit is opened (LED sensor comes on). Some proximity sensors have an LED (Light Emitting Diode) on the rear of unit. If the proximity sensor is wired incorrectly, the LED will stay on and go off when activated. Proximity sensors are used mainly in places where security is needed. They can be used for exterior windows or doors in a secured building. When a window or door with a detectable ferrous metal object is moved away from the sensor, the circuit will be closed and an alarm will sound and/or lights will come on. Also, when a normally open proximity sensor is used with electronic crank trigger ignition, the wider the gap in the rotating disc, the longer the duration of the spark, which makes for a more thorough burning of the fuel. It's almost impossible to tell the difference between a normally open and normally closed sensor just by looking at them because they appear to be identical. If an inductive proximity sensor has no markings or indications to show that it's a normally open (N/O) and normally closed (N/C), a 100% sure way to determine the type, is read the label on the sensor (may need to use a strong magnifying glass), or test it with the wires connected in a circuit as shown in the drawings further down in this website. Ê Click here for more information: Proximity Sensor - YouTube.

Using a Proximity Sensor and Ignition control Module to Power an LED or Light Bulb - (added 8/19/17)

A proximity sensor cannot only be used with crank trigger ignition, but they can also be used to illuminate an LED (Light Emitting Diode) or low-amp (maximum 2 amp) 12 volt filament light bulb. When a mechanically-operated push-button switch is subject to a lot of moisture, dirt and debris (such as the switch for a brake light and/or safety indicator light on a pulling sled), which can clog up the plunger in the switch and damage or corrode the internal contacts, and cause it to malfunction, a proximity sensor can take its place because they're completely sealed, making them dirt and water proof. For the proximity sensor work with an LED or light bulb, it will need to be used with an ignition control module, such as the ordinary/stock GM HEI module. The LED or light bulb connects in place of the ignition coil. All LED's have a positive (+) and negative (–) wires. The positive wire (usually red in color) connects to the B terminal on the module, and the negative lead connects to the C terminal. And the two wires on the light bulb can connect either way to B and C. Also, two separate proximity sensors, one used for a brake light and the other for a safety indicator light, and one module can be used to power one LED or one low-amp light, but both proximity sensors must be either Normally Open or Normally Closed. One will not work with the other with the same module.

How Magnetic and Non-Magnetic Pickup Coils Work -

A magnetic pickup coil works like a normally open proximity sensor. Magnetic pickup coils have two wires, are self-generating and require no external power. They can only generate electricity when they come in close proximity of a small or narrow detectable iron-based ferrous metal object that a magnet can stick to. They will not work with non-magnetic metals, such as: aluminum, brass, copper, stainless steel, titanium, etc. And a non-magnetic pickup coil also have two wires, are self-generating and require no external power. They can only generate electricity when it comes in close proximity of a small or narrow detectable magnet or magnetized metal object, such as the head of a ferrous metal steel screw fastening a magnet to the edge of a disc or flywheel. Click here for more information: Magnetic Pickup Coil - YouTube.

Magnetic pickup coils and proximity sensors are very sensitive to mechanical damage (and electrical damage if connected wrong). For magnetic pickup coils, set the air gap/clearance from the detection/trigger target (screw, pin or small raised area on the rotating disc) at .010" - .060" with a brass, plastic, poster board, stainless steel (anything non-magnetic) feeler gauge. And being inductive proximity sensors have a farther detection distance, set the air gap/clearance at .010" - ..060". If the gap is wider than specified with either sensor, the engine could misfire at higher RPM. Direct metal contact with either sensor could damage them. When in doubt if a sensor is mechanically damaged, look at the end of it with the strong magnifying glass to see any damage. If it is damaged, it needs to be replaced. A magnetic pickup coil can be tested with a digital multimeter set on 200m DC, with the negative lead of the meter on the white wire of the pickup coil and positive lead on the black wire, then pass a small steel screw or bolt over the end of the magnetic pickup coil. If the meter shows a reading, the pickup coil is in good condition.


How to set the [point] ignition timing on the aluminum block flathead Tecumseh engines - Top of page
First of all, on virtually any spark-ignition engine, advancing or retarding of the ignition timing is performed by widening (advancing the timing) or narrowing (retarding the timing) the ignition point gap, and on all Tecumseh engines with points/condenser ignition, this is performed by rotating the ignition stator (the aluminum part the points, condenser/capacitor and coil are fastened onto) one way or the other. On all aluminum block flathead Tecumseh engines, the entire ignition system is located under the flywheel. (There is no points lobe on the camshaft.)
  1. Use a feeler gauge to set the ignition points at .020" with the end of the plastic lever points arm is on the highest side of the rubbing block (points lobe) in alignment with the arrow (6). And make sure the feeler gauge, points contacts and rubbing block are absolutely clean of dirt or debris, too! Also, it's important to apply a small amount of motor oil on the lubricator felt or a dab of lubricating grease on the rubbing block to prevent the plastic actuator lever from wearing, which will eventually retard the ignition timing, resulting in hard starting and loss of engine power.
  2. To set the ignition timing, with the cylinder head removed, for all Small Frame Tecumseh engines (up to the small block 5hp; including all walk-behind lawn mowers, certain midsize snowblowers, garden tillers, etc.), rotate the crankshaft in normal rotation (clockwise when facing the flywheel) until the piston is positioned at .070" BTDC. For all Medium Frame Tecumseh 5hp [medium size block] and 6hp cast iron and aluminum block engines, position the piston at .050" BTDC. And for the Medium Frame Tecumseh 7hp, 8hp and 10hp aluminum block engines, position the piston at .090" BTDC. To set the piston at the correct distance in the cylinder, use a dial indicator or use a large flat washer of either .050", .070" or .090" thickness placed on top of the piston with the washer flush with the edge of cylinder deck.
  3. With the piston set at the correct distance in the cylinder (do not disturb the rotation of the crankshaft), slightly loosen the two stator retaining bolts, and rotate the stator by hand JUST when the points begin to open. It is at this point when spark occurs. Do not rotate the crankshaft to do this! You can visually see when the points begin to open. For a more accurate setting, use a multimeter set on the Ohms (d) resistance (make sure the battery in the multimeter is fully charged) or use a battery-powered test light in the points, with the points acting as a switch to turn the light off and on.
  4. When the timing is correctly set, securely tighten the stator bolts.

NOTE: If the ignition timing is set correct and the engine kicks back upon starting, sometimes, but not always, the compression release mechanism on the camshaft isn't releasing enough compression from the combustion chamber. When this happens, try setting the valve clearances to specs (.008" intake / .010" exhaust) and see if that makes a difference. If the timing is retarded to reduce the possibility of kickback, then the engine will be hard to start, run sluggish and not produce adequate power.


To install a solid state electronic magneto ignition module on a small and medium frame Tecumseh engine without a charging stator and ring of magnets under the flywheel, the ignition points will need to be installed as described above only to set the stator in the correct position for the ignition timing, and then the solid state ignition module can be installed.

If the stator mounting bolts are loosened and the stator is rotated for any reason, the setting of the timing with the points as described above will need to be repeated. Therefore, it's best to place a scribe mark made with a wide-blade cold chisel against the edge of the stator housing and one or both of the raised bolt bosses on the engine block. This way, the stator can be reinstalled with the chisel mark(s) aligned and the timing will be set correctly. But if the original stator is replaced with one from another engine, the setting of the timing with the points will need to be repeated


How to Fix the Problem with a Worn Points Lobe on a Kohler Camshaft -

Sometimes the points lobe on a single cylinder Kohler camshaft will become worn or have a groove worn in it so badly that the ignition timing can't be advanced enough so the engine will produce adequate power. There's a way to fix this, and there's no need to purchase another camshaft or do welding on the points lobe. Simply install a stainless steel nut on the points pushrod. A plain steel nut could cause wear to the outer unworn areas of the lobe. Anyway, the nut will make contact with the outer unworn areas of the lobe, allowing full advancement of the timing as if the lobe wasn't worn at all. To fix the problem with a worn points lobe...

  1. Completely disassemble the engine and remove everything from inside the crankcase.
  2. Acquire a short, non-magnetic stainless steel 10-24 UNC or 10-32 UNF (thread size) x 3/8" (wrench size) hex nut. A stainless steel nut is hard, yet slicker than plain steel, which allows it to slide against the points lobe more smoothly, lessening wear to the outer unworn areas of the points lobe.
  3. Cut very short threads on one end of the pushrod so the nut will be perpendicular to the rod. To maintain correct pushrod length, cut the length of the threads the same thickness of the nut.
  4. Install the nut on the points pushrod. The nut is threaded onto the pushrod and jammed where the threads end. And if you're concerned about the nut coming off the pushrod while in use, well, it'll be impossible for it to come off because for one thing, the nut will be jammed tight against the short threads on the pushrod. And if preferred, use high strength liquid threadlocker (Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent) to secure the nut even better.
    The length of Kohler engine models K90/K91, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, K482, K532 and K582 points pushrod is 1.500" minimum and 1.550" maximum (new). And the length of Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161 and K181 points pushrod is 1.260" minimum and 1.265" maximum (new). As long as it's anywhere between these two measurements, the points should adjust and work fine. If either pushrod is too short, the points contacts won't open enough or at all, and the rod will need to be replaced with a longer one. But if either pushrod is too long, the points' contacts won't touch and the rod will need to be shortened. So measure accurately before (re)installing! The diameter of each pushrod is minimum .184" and .1875" (3/16") maximum (new).
  5. On the K141, K160/K161 and K181 engines, the nut will need to be reduced in diameter (in a small metal lathe), and the inside of the block will need to be ground away for clearance of the nut.
  6. Remember that the pushrod must be inserted from inside the block before the camshaft is reinstalled!
  7. The nut on the pushrod or a flared end points pushrod can also be used for an unworn lobe, for longer wearing of the lobe.
  8. See image below Ê for a better understanding of this.

Points Pushrod w/Nut

Grinding of the Point LobeIf doing the above È doesn't help to advance the timing quite far enough (for gas and especially methanol fuel), grinding (and polishing) of the lobe may need to be done. Grind about .050" deep in the surface just before the lobe (see drawing to the right) and about 1/2" from the lobe to right next to the lobe, but not on the lobe itself! A die grinder with a porting stone works excellent for doing this. After doing this, the timing can then be advanced as far as 50º BTDC!

When advancing the ignition timing past 24º± BTDC, and if the camshaft has an automatic compression release, it will need to be removed because the spark will occur when the exhaust valve opens slightly to relieve some of the compression, preventing the engine from starting. And to make the engine easier to crank over and start under full compression, a high torque starter motor with separate starter and ignition switches to prevent "kick back" will need to be used. "Kick back" occurs when the crankshaft/flywheel suddenly and violently rebounds or rotates in the opposite direction, which is could bend or break the starter armature shaft or the aluminum starter housing.

To keep crankcase oil from contaminating the ignition points on a Kohler engine is to install a new [stainless steel] points pushrod and/or if the hole in the block is slightly worn, install a small, snug-fitting neoprene rubber O-ring on the points pushrod. Place the O-ring on the outside [of the block] and close to the engine block. The oil will travel out to the O-ring and drip off, staying off the points. But if the points pushrod hole is excessively worn, this will effect the ignition timing as well, and the block will need to be machined for installation of a bronze sleeve bushing, or the hole can be plugged, and solid state or crank trigger electronic ignition installed.

Another way to keep crankcase oil from contaminating the ignition points on a Kohler engine, install an OEM Kohler Diaphragm Seal. It's made of clear, silicone rubber, slides over the pushrod, and is held in place by the points mounting bracket. IMPORTANT: Before installing the seal, apply clean motor oil, gear oil or lubricating grease inside seal lip or on points pushrod for lubrication and to prevent premature wear of the seal.


Ignition System Options - Top of page

If a Kohler K-series engine originally came with points and condenser/capacitor ignition, and you're looking for a more reliable and maintenance-free ignition system, well, you have these options...


100% Digital, Maintenance-Free Crank Trigger Electronic Ignition Section - (Updated 5/21/17) Top of page

Get That Old Engine Running Again With 21st Century Technology Using 100% Digital Crank Trigger Electronic Ignition, Even When New Replacement Parts Are Obsolete or Cost-Prohibited!

This is the era of modern wonders, where everything is electronic, transistorized, digitized and miniaturized. Yet even today, many garden pulling tractors still use the old-fashioned breaker point ignition systems. For other people, the frustration of attempting to keep a breaker point-fired tractor in peak running condition has been enough of a reason to join the electronic era. Breaker point systems do have some positives, though. Points are cheap and somewhat easy to install. And many people are comfortable with installing their own points. The bad side of using points is, besides the points contacts burning, pitting and wearing out, if or when the points lobe on the (Kohler) camshaft become worn, this will narrow the gap on the pints, and retard the ignition timing. The lobe can wear so much that resetting the points at .020" or setting the timing at 20º BTDC becomes impossible. As the point gap gets too narrow, the ignition timing will become retarded (less than the factory setting of 20º BTDC), and when it gets too wide, the timing will become too advanced (more than the factory setting of 20º BTDC).

When the timing is retarded, the engine may be difficult to start, and when does start, it may not idle well, and it'll lack sufficient power. Also, with retarded timing, all of the fuel in the combustion chamber will not be burned. Part of the raw fuel will exit out of the exhaust, while the rest will remain in the chamber combustion and cling to the cylinder wall, causing the lubricating crankcase oil to become diluted and contaminated with gas. When this happens, "cylinder wash down" will result. Cylinder wash down is when the gas dilutes the thin coat of oil on the cylinder wall, and the piston rings will no longer be adequately lubricated, causing them to wear (scrape) against the cylinder wall excessively, resulting in worn rings, possibly a worn cylinder wall, and eventually a smoky engine. Cylinder wash down can also happen to a diesel engine when the fuel injectors are "turned up" or fuel delivery is increased so the engine will produce more power. (It will also blow more black smoke out the exhaust.)

But when the ignition timing is too advanced, this will cause the engine to run hotter than normal, which will likely cause the piston to swell more than usual, allowing it to make metal to metal contact against the cylinder wall, causing excessive wear and friction. And the rings will lose their expansion against the cylinder wall as well. Eventually, due to the lose-fitting piston in the cylinder, the engine (piston) will make a rattling sound and start smoking out the exhaust, and it will ultimately need to be rebuilt.

If installed correctly, crank trigger stabilizes the ignition timing and will always have a strong spark, so you won't ever have to worry about it. There'll be less of a chance of spark plug fouling, and the fuel will be burned more thoroughly. The engine will produce more power and you will have more confidence that the engine will last longer. So for the utmost precision ignition timing and maintenance-free convenience, crank trigger electronic ignition is the way to go! It will allow the engine to idle better, accelerate and run smoother, and produce more power at high RPM or wide open throttle.

Tired of changing or constantly adjusting the ignition points? Convert to the 100% digitized crank trigger electronic ignition! For improved performance, easier starting, and less moving parts to leave your tractor dead on the track. Shock and moisture resistant, and all it takes is a few simple hand tools to install. In my opinion, getting rid of the points and condenser/capacitor has been the best advance ever in engine technology.

Virtually Any Gas Engine Can Be Converted To Crank Trigger Electronic Ignition!

My crank trigger electronic ignition set ups will work with virtually any 2- or 4-cycle engine, as long as the magnetic pickup coil or inductive proximity sensor, or the Dynatek Dyna S or PerTronix Ignitor modules can be mounted securely, and there's a trigger rotor or disc of some kind, that can also be secured in place.

If an engine is connected to a battery (and if it has a charging system to keep the battery fully charged for prolong use), and if there's room on the PTO end of the crankshaft for the ignition disc, and a place to mount the bracket for the magnetic pickup coil or inductive proximity sensor, then the engine can be converted to crank trigger electronic ignition. And the ignition disc doesn't have to be made of aluminum. If there's a steel hub mounted on the end of the crankshaft, it could be used to trigger the ignition. As long as the head(s) of the detector/trigger target, rather if it's a small magnet, screw, pin, projection (hump) on the edge of a flywheel or on a rotating disc, is/are higher than the outer edge of the [steel] hub (signal detection), the magnetic pickup coil or inductive proximity sensor will detect it/them.

Kohler Breakerless Ignition (and Tecumseh Cast Iron Block Engine Solid State Ignition) are also a 100% digital system and requires no mechanical or physical contact to activate any moving parts. It operates basically on the same general principle as crank trigger ignition. Breakerless Ignition is Kohler's version of a crank trigger ignition system as described further down in this website. A trigger module containing solid state electronics performs the same function as the breaker points. Because there are no breaker points in this system, there are no requirements for ignition timing. The Module Sensor, as part of the Breakerless Ignition system, is energized by two windings on the charging stator under the flywheel. Breakerless Ignition is pretty much maintenance free, with very few parts to wear out or become defective. But when it does fail, OEM replacement parts can be very expensive. My custom-made crank trigger ignition kits can replace a defective Breakerless Ignition system for a fraction of the cost of OEM Kohler parts. IMPORTANT: The wire that comes from the stator under the flywheel for Kohler Trigger Module or Tecumseh Solid State Ignition Module generates about 250 volts while the engine is running at full governored speed (serious). Do not touch this wire (terminal) with one bare hand and the engine itself with your other hand while the engine is running! It is not needed for any of my crank trigger ignition systems. So snip off this wire or tape up the terminal to prevent a short circuit or electrocution.

Kohler's Breakerless Ignition System was used on various Kohler engine models K181, K241, K301 and K321. The Breakerless Ignition is Kohler's version of a crank trigger electronic ignition system described further down in this website. The Trigger Module (the part that's fastened to the bearing plate, extends over the ring gear and is triggered by the projection (hump) on the edge of the flywheel) is part of the Breakerless Ignition. To test this part, refer to Kohler K-series Single Cylinder Engine Service Manual TP-2379.

Kohler Engine Models and Specification Numbers That Originally Came With The Breakerless Ignition System:
K181-30296, 30518, 30529, 30666; K241-46513, 46536, 46566, 46578, 46591, 46613, 46614, 46615, 46624, 46634, 46640, 46651; K301-47145, 47147, 47204, 47232, 47249, 47252, 47255, 47275, 47277, 47278, 47284, 47289, 47295, 47303, 47304, 47305, 47313, 47314, 47335, 47336, 47339, 47340, 47346, 47350, 47362, 47363, 47365, 47367, 47371, 47374, 47375, 47378, 47387, 47389, 47391 47397, 47400, 47402, 47403, 47407, 47410, 47420, 47422, 47423, 47424; K321-6006, 6008, 6010, 60105, 60121, 60124, 60124B, 60125, 6013, 60131, 60132, 60133, 60176, 6017B, 60187, 60189, 6019B, 60201, 60213, 6022B, 60239, 6025B, 60275, 6038B, 6041B, 6051, 6053, 6055, 6058, 6071, 6079, 6081, 6088, 6093.

If the Trigger Module no longer works, and installing a new one is cost-prohibitive (Kohler part # A-237339-S, $242.00 retail, still available as of 2017. The Breakerless Ignition coil has been discontinued by Kohler), and you're looking for an alternative lower-cost and reliable ignition system, well, you have the two options below... (Updated 4/20/17)

How to Convert from Battery Ignition to Crank Trigger Electronic Ignition or Solid State Ignition on Kohler Engines - (Updated 5/2/17)

To use crank trigger electronic ignition on Kohler twin cylinder engine models KT17, KT17 series 2, KT19 and KT19 series 2, a sturdy steel or aluminum angled bracket, 1/8" thick x 1-1/4" wide x 6" length can be used to mount either a 5/8" magnetic pickup coil, hall effect or inductive proximity sensor wired up to a Chrysler (w/ballast resistor) or Ford electronic ignition control module/unit (ICU) . The angled bracket will need to be fastened onto the #1 cylinder, which is nearest the flywheel and on your right when facing the flywheel, and extended to the wide, flat area on the flywheel at the 1:30 position when the S – mark is aligned with the roll pin on the cylinder (20º BTDC). Two bolt holes will need to be drilled and tapped in the bosses on the #1 cylinder for two 1/4-20 UNC x 3/4" length bolts. The bosses for the bolt holes are already cast in the cylinder. The wide, flat area on the flywheel can be used to tap a small 3/16" screw for use as the detector/trigger target. The head of the screw should be extended 1/4" from the surface of the flywheel to prevent any out of time spark occurrences by the flywheel fins. The OEM twin cylinder ignition coil and ignition switch for the KT17, KT17 series 2, KT19 and KT19 series 2 engines can be used with this crank trigger electronic ignition setup. Remove the points and pushrod, and cut short 1/4-20 UNC or 1/4-28 UNF threads in the pushrod hole and tighten in a 1/4" Allen set screw to plug the hole, or drill the hole to 17/64" diameter x 3/8" deep, and install a Briggs & Stratton points plunger hole plug to block off the pushrod hole.

But to convert Kohler twin cylinder engine models KT17, KT17 series 2, KT19 and KT19 series 2 to solid state ignition, parts off of a Kohler Magnum twin cylinder engine model MV16, M18, MV18, M20 or MV20 will need to be used. Parts needed are: flywheel, solid state ignition coil, coil mounting bracket and mounting screws. The flywheel is a direct replacement, but to mount the coil bracket, two holes will need to be drilled and tapped 1/4-20 UNC in the bosses of the #1 cylinder (on your right when facing the flywheel) for two 1/4-20 UNC x 1" length bolts. The bosses for the bolts are already cast in the cylinder for this. Remove the points and pushrod, cut short 1/4-20 UNC or 1/4-28 UNF threads in the hole and tighten in a 1/4" Allen set screw to plug the hole, or drill the hole to 17/64" diameter x 3/8" deep, and install a Briggs & Stratton points plunger hole plug to block off the Kohler points pushrod hole. And a different ignition switch is required to ground the coil to shut off the engine. A magneto ignition key switch, or a simple OFF/ON toggle- or key-switch can be used. Check with your local small engine repair shops/salvage yards, search eBay, Craigslist or the Internet for the required Magnum engine parts.

To convert the Kohler K-series single cylinder engines (K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321 or K341) to solid state ignition, the flywheel, bearing plate, starter motor and solid state ignition coil off of a Kohler Magnum M8, M10, M12, M14 or M16 engine will need to be used. The M8 parts can be used on the Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161 and K181. And the M10, M12, M14 or M16 parts can be used on the Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321 and K341. The ignition stator (under the flywheel) charging system will need to be used, too.

Click Here to convert from Breakerless Ignition to Crank Trigger Electronic Ignition, or for a Unique Crank Trigger Ignition Setup that operate off the Flywheel, and not the PTO end of the Crankshaft and Engine Block. By the way - Kohler's Breakerless Ignition coil will not work with any of my crank trigger ignition systems.. (Updated 4/29/17)


Stable ignition timing is a necessity in high performance engines. In most cases, a points ignition will do just fine, but when you start making big time horsepower with extreme cylinder pressures and higher RPM, the timing is critical to both the performance and life of the engine. The ignition must be triggered at a precise time in relation to the position of the piston during the compression stroke. However, the timing can get erratic or fluctuate at high RPM or wide open throttle with the points system, due to camshaft end play, clearance in both the crank and cam gears and mechanical flexing that takes place through the camshaft support pin, especially when using a high lift cam with very stiff valve springs. In fact, if you ever checked the timing on an engine with camshaft-operated points using an inductive strobe timing light, you may have noticed that the timing mark on the flywheel (or starter pulley on the PTO end) will fluctuate or "move up and down" a few degrees. And it'll fluctuate more as the engine RPM increases. This won't happen with crank trigger electronic ignition. It totally eliminates spark flutter or fluctuations and erratic timing problems common with point ignitions. With crank trigger electronic ignition, the "tighter" the main bearings are, the more stable the timing is.

When checking the timing with an inductive strobe timing light on an engine with crank trigger electronic and main ball bearings, it's best to run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature. The reason for this is the free play in the ball bearings is lessened as the bearings get warm, providing a more stable spark.

The crankshaft knows exactly where the piston is, plus the crankshaft is the most stable component in an engine in relation to piston position. That's why crank trigger electronic ignition is so important in high-horsepower/high RPM or wide open throttle engine applications. With this ignition, you get absolutely stable timing with 1/10th± of a degree of accuracy from 0 to 15,000+ RPM without missing a beat (when using an electronic ignition control module/unit (ICU) with a high-capacity transistor). The 1/10th± of a degree is the result of the clearances in the main bearings. With an electronic ignition control module with a high-capacity transistor, the crank trigger ignition system will work flawlessly without missing a hit even if an engine can turn up to 100,000 RPM! Because it works as fast as electricity can travel. As long as it's installed and adjusted correctly, it'll help an engine scream down the track. Also, with the crank trigger electronic ignition system, you can set the ignition timing and forget it!

crank trigger electronic ignition is when the mechanical breaker points and condenser/capacitor are totally eliminated and replaced by solid state transistorized circuitry. Actually, it works on the same principle as the electronic ignition that's used in the older automobiles (before computerized ignition systems). The conventional points ignition system is considered as old-fashioned technology by today's standards. Even the [high dollar] aftermarket adjustable ignition plate that's made for Chevy points is considered old-fashioned by today's standards!

Using points versus crank trigger electronic ignition is up to you. Personally, I prefer the crank trigger ignition setup because it's very reliable and virtually maintenance free. With conventional ignition, the points will ALWAYS go bad or wear out. The contacts on points can get dirty, worn, burnt, oily (oil seepage from the crankcase), out of adjustment, wet (whenever the tractor is washed off or rained upon) or even oxidized (light corrosion). The use of a high-output/performance low saturation ignition coil can also shorten the life of points. And the condenser/capacitor can become defective.

Because all high-output/performance low saturation ignition coils draw more power from the battery, if they are not used with a ballast resistor, they will likely burn a good set of ignition points in a short time. All high-output/performance low saturation ignition coils also require two standard capacity (Kohler) condensers/capacitors or one high-capacity/performance condenser/capacitor so it can produce more voltage. But high-output/performance low saturation ignition coils have no effect whatsoever on the Chrysler (w/ballast resistor) or Ford electronic ignition control module/unit (ICU) , even if two automotive-type canister coils, a 2-post Harley-Davidson coil (this particular coil also works great for Kohler engine models KT17, KT17 series 2, KT19, KT19 series 2, K482, K532, K582, K660/K662, or Onan twin cylinder engines, a GM DIS (Distributorless Ignition System) coil is used! The DIS coil part numbers are AC Delco D555 or Standard Motor Products DR39X, and was used in select GM vehicles from 1985 to the 2005, one of which is the 2005 Chevrolet Impala. There's no certain way to connect the wires to the primary windings in the Harley-Davidson or GM DIS coil. There is no positive (+) or negative (–) side. Just connect the wires to either terminal. The DIS coil is a high-output/performance low saturation coil, which means the spark plug gaps can be set at .060" each. When using points with 12 volts, install a ballast resistor to prevent burning up the coil, and connect two standard capacity (Kohler) condensers/capacitors or one high-capacity/performance condenser/capacitor so the oil will produce more voltage. (When using two condensers/capacitors, connect each condenser/capacitor to the negative (–) coil terminal, or to the wire going to the points, and make sure each condenser/capacitor is grounded.) A ballast resistor is not required with crank trigger ignition or in a 6 volt system. And crank trigger ignition is much safer than points. Because ignition points contacts creates a spark (which is normal), there's always danger of a fire if there's ever a fuel leak. The only spark that occurs with crank trigger ignition is at the spark plug's tip. The bracket to mount the Harley coil on a Kohler twin cylinder engine is not included. This part is discontinued by Kohler. If needed, new mounting holes can be drilled through the Harley coil's laminations next to the existing holes.

Go here to see how well the GM DIS coil works: Gravely 817 Onan CCKA Coil Replacement with Chevy GM DIS Coil - YouTube (Video posted by Ralph (rw3dog@yahoo.com)

At very high RPM or wide open throttle, with conventional points and condenser/capacitor ignition, the ignition coil operates at about 80% efficiency. The same is true with high-output/performance low saturation ignition coils because they require more power from the battery. But with crank trigger ignition, using the GM HEI 4-pin, Chrysler (w/ballast resistor) or Ford electronic ignition control module/unit (ICU) , any type of coil operates at 100% efficiency at any RPM, which produces a much stronger spark. This is why Chevrolet refers to their 1974-'90 electronic ignition as HEI, meaning High Energy Ignition. The reason there's a stronger spark is because at higher RPM, there's no condenser/capacitor to break down the voltage in the primary circuit in the coil.

When a magnetic pickup coil is used with crank trigger ignition, the duration of each spark lasts about twice as long than with points and condenser/capacitor ignition. And when an inductive proximity sensor is used with crank trigger ignition, the spark duration is about 4 times longer than with points and condenser/capacitor ignition, because an inductive proximity sensor can detect the detector/trigger target, rather if it's a small screw, pin, projection (hump) on the edge of a flywheel or on a rotating disc, at the farther distance than a magnetic pickup coil. A longer spark duration burns the fuel more thoroughly, especially at very high RPM, resulting in more power. Although an inductive proximity sensor can be used on a stock engine running at around 4,000 RPM with no problems, it's more suited for a high performance engine (than the magnetic pickup coil) due to its longer spark duration. In other words, a stock engine with limited RPM will not benefit from the longer spark duration. Also, the closer the magnetic pickup coil or inductive proximity sensor is set to the detector/trigger target, rather if it's a small screw, pin, projection (hump) on the edge of a flywheel or on a rotating disc, the longer the duration will be.


Items Needed and Details on How to Install a Crank Trigger Electronic Ignition System (on virtually any gas engine) - Top of page

ü A Universal Magnetic Pickup Coil, Crankshaft Position Sensor, Tach/Speed Sensor or an inductive Proximity Sensor. Virtually any automotive engine speed sensor or crank position sensor will work for this system. These all work the same. These sensors require no power from the battery or module because they self-generate an AC signal. Be sure to use a magnetic one that produces a small electrical current whenever a small steel (nonmagnetic) object is passed quickly over the end of it. Most magnetic pickup coils generate 2-3 volts. Also, there needs to be a way to mount it on the engine so the air gap/clearance and ignition timing can be set and/or adjusted. A universal magnetic pickup coil is most common for this application. It's an engine speed sensor (Tach Sensor) that threads in the bellhousing of a late model truck with a Diesel engine for activation of the tachometer. A crank position sensor is an automotive unit that threads in the engine block and reads off a cogged wheel mounted on the crankshaft. It's for a crank trigger ignition system that's on an automobile with a computer-controlled engine that has electronic fuel injection.

The Ford (various 1987-2009 models) ABS wheel speed sensor will work as the magnetic pickup coil with the crank trigger ignition. And various GM crank position sensors have three or more wires, but use just two wires. (They're nothing more than a magnetic pickup coil.) The third (or other) wire(s) is ground or neutral and really don't need to be used with crank trigger ignition. When you buy a sensor, test it to see which wires produce the electrical current, then just snip off the (useless) other wire(s). An inductive proximity sensor, magnetic pickup coil and crank position sensor can be easily tested by connecting it to an analog or digital multimeter that's set on the lowest AC scale, then quickly pass the head of a small steel bolt or nail back and forth across the end of the sensor. If the analog needle fluctuates slightly or the digital display goes up and down each time the metal object makes a pass, the sensor is in working order. The more voltage a sensor produces, the stronger the spark. Use a small magnet or a telescoping magnetic pickup tool with a small magnet to test a non-magnetic pickup coil or hall effect proximity sensor. The stronger the magnet, the more voltage the sensor will produce, resulting in a stronger spark.

Magnetic pickup coils and proximity sensors are very sensitive to mechanical damage (and electrical damage if connected wrong). For magnetic pickup coils, set the air gap/clearance from the detection/trigger target (screw, pin or small raised area on the rotating disc) at .010" - .060" with a brass, plastic, poster board, stainless steel (anything non-magnetic) feeler gauge. And being inductive proximity sensors have a farther detection distance, set the air gap/clearance at .010" - .188". If the gap is wider than specified with either sensor, the engine could misfire at higher RPM. Direct metal contact with either sensor could damage them. When in doubt if a sensor is mechanically damaged, look at the end of it with the strong magnifying glass to see any damage. If it is damaged, it needs to be replaced. A magnetic pickup coil can be tested with a digital multimeter set on 200m DC, with the negative lead of the meter on the white wire of the pickup coil and positive lead on the black wire, then pass a small steel screw or bolt over the end of the magnetic pickup coil. If the meter shows a reading, the pickup coil is in good condition.


(Updated 6/9/17) ü The GM HEI (High Energy Ignition) 4-Pin Electronic Ignition Control Module/Unit (ICU) can be used for the crank trigger ignition system. The GM HEI 4-pin module can safely operate with full 12 volts, is completely sealed, making it water-proof. It's also vibration-resistant because it has an micro-electronic circuit board, meaning there's no internal loose wires to vibrate and break due to normal engine vibration. Crimp-type, slip-on female spade wire connectors can be used on the terminals of the module when connecting the wires. Ground the module through the two mounting holes (so it will work) and when mounting the GM HEI module, always fasten it with dielectric grease on a clean, flat aluminum plate with plenty of fresh air circulation to dissipate the heat while in operation. Also, the GM HEI 4-pin module has no spark advance. The ignition timing stays constant at all times. Which means it doesn't advance or retard the timing at any RPM.

UPDATED 8/8/17: Now when used on a small engine, the GM HEI electronic ignition control module lives up to its name, High Energy Ignition! The ordinary/stock GM HEI module will produce a very strong spark and accelerate the engine at high RPMs only with the cube-shaped high-output inductive proximity sensor, regardless of the ohms resistance or voltage output of the coil, type of spark plug wire, spark plug and width of gap is used. It will make no difference when the cube-shaped high-output inductive proximity sensor is used with the high-output/performance low saturation GM HEI module. But the high-output/performance low saturation GM HEI module will allow the engine to accelerate at high RPMs with the magnetic pickup coil, but only with a 1.0 ohm ignition coil, metal-core spark plug wire and non-resistor spark plug with the gap set at .025". This concept revolutionizes the use of this small, compact and versatile ignition module! This is a thoroughly tested, researched and proven reliable ignition system by Brian Miller for ordinary lawn and garden engines and competition pulling engines alike. NOTE: I found that certain Chinese-made stock/ordinary GM HEI 4-pin modules will not produce a spark when used with the cube-shaped high-output inductive proximity sensor. They will only work with a magnetic pickup coil. And the round-body proximity sensors (or magnetic pickup coils) will allow the engine to accelerate at high RPMs only when used with the Chrysler or Ford electronic ignition control modules, regardless of the ohms resistance in the coil, type of spark plug wire, spark plug and width of gap is used.

The GM HEI 4-pin module have four terminals. The terminals are marked as follows: W (White), G (Ground), C (Coil) and B (Battery). The one small terminal (G) accepts the 187 (.187" / 3/16" wide) female spade crimp connector, and the other three bigger terminals (W, B and C) accepts the 250 (.250" / 1/4" wide) female spade crimp connector. To connect the wires for a magnetic pickup coil, W connects to the White wire on the magnetic pickup coil, G connects to the Black wire on the magnetic pickup coil, C connects to the negative (–) terminal on the ignition coil, and B connects to the positive (+) terminal on the ignition coil and to the ignition switch (battery positive (+) post). If the wires for W and G are reversed, or if an ordinary/stock GM HEI module is used with a coil that has an internal resistor higher than 1.0 ohms, the engine may idle well, but die out or "sputter" upon acceleration due to weak coil saturation. To connect the wires for a proximity sensor, W connects to the Blue wire on the sensor, G connects to the Black wire on the sensor and engine/chassis ground, C connects to the negative (–) terminal on the ignition coil, and B connects to the Brown wire on the sensor, positive (+) terminal on the ignition coil and to the ignition switch (battery positive (+) post). If an ordinary/stock GM HEI module is used with a low output proximity sensor, the engine may idle well, but die out or "sputter" upon acceleration due to the weak spark.

Being this module is small and compact, it's ideal for use on lawn and garden equipment, or a garden pulling tractor with limited space. The ideal location to mount the GM HEI module on a Kohler 10-16hp engine with a starter/generator, 8" flywheel and small size bearing plate is directly on the bearing plate with dielectric grease at the 10:30 position, just underneath the magnetic pickup coil or proximity sensor. (See the picture to the right for a better understanding.) And the ideal location to mount the GM HEI module on a Kohler 10-16hp engine with a gear starter, 9-1/2" ring gear flywheel and large size bearing plate is directly on the outside of the bearing plate with dielectric grease, next to where the mechanical fuel pump goes. (See the picture to the right for a better understanding.) Use a close quarters drill to bore small mounting holes in the bearing plate and self-tapping screws to fasten the module to the plate. And when mounting the GM HEI module, always fasten it with dielectric grease on a clean, flat aluminum plate with plenty of fresh air circulation to dissipate the heat while in operation.

FYI - The electronic ignition control modules that's mentioned in this website are designed for older automobiles with a mechanical timing advance (flyweights) built into the distributor. The newer control modules that can retard and advance the timing use multiple sensors, one to tell the module that the engine isn't running, therefore, it retards the timing so the engine will start easier. And another sensor to send the signal that the engine is running, and then another sensor to advance the timing so the engine will produce full power. The distributor for these don't have (or need) a mechanical timing advance.


A Dodge, Plymouth or Chrysler (MOPAR) Electronic Ignition Control Module/Unit (ICU) can also be used for crank trigger ignition. The ordinary OEM Chrysler ignition module works great on a garden pulling tractor for durability and all-out performance. Plus, it's vibration-resistant because the internal electronic components are sealed in epoxy. This means there's no internal wires to vibrate and break due to normal engine vibration. And being a new wiring harness for the Chrysler electronic ignition control module cost about $38.00-$68.00, so to save money, I recommend getting the wiring harness (connector w/wire leads and retaining screw) off a 1972-1992 Chrysler, Dodge or Plymouth vehicle that's in a salvage yard. But if you want to get a new one, the part number is Standard S-516. If a used OEM Chrysler wiring harness can't be found or if a new one is cost-prohibitive, four, slip-on female bullet wire connectors with different colored wires can be used to make a wiring harness for the Chrysler ignition module, and secure the connectors in place with Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant. (Sometimes one must improvise to make things work. ) This module can be used with virtually any ignition coil, regardless of the ohms resistance or voltage output.

Ground the module with the mounting base holes so it will work. This type of module was used from 1972 through 1992, except on vehicles with the "lean burn" ignition. Also, tests has proven that an OEM/ordinary Chrysler module performs just as well as an aftermarket high performance [Mopar] modules when used on a garden pulling tractor. And this is not a spark advance module. The ignition timing stays constant at all times with this module. Which means it doesn't advance or retard the timing at any RPM. For accurate and detailed wiring information and diagrams, please click here or scroll down further in this web page. I offer this module for sale further down in this website.

FYI - The electronic ignition control modules that's mentioned in this website are designed for older automobiles with a mechanical timing advance (flyweights) built into the distributor. The newer control modules that can retard and advance the timing use multiple sensors, one to tell the module that the engine isn't running, therefore, it retards the timing so the engine will start easier. And another sensor to send the signal that the engine is running, and then another sensor to advance the timing so the engine will produce full power. The distributor for these don't have (or need) a mechanical timing advance.

The electronic ignition control module, magnetic pickup coil or inductive proximity sensor could burn up (possibly instantly) if the wires aren't connected to the right terminals! When connecting the wires, take your time and make sure to use different colored wires to avoid confusion. And be sure to fasten all wiring securely to avoid breakage or loose connections from normal engine or tractor vibration. And when mounting the Chrysler module, mount it away from excessive heat and remember that the exposed power transistor is electrically hot while the power is on. The module should be mounted in an area which minimizes the possibility of shorting the transistor when working in the engine area. And to avoid an electric shock, do not touch the switching transistor, and to prevent from damaging the module, do not short the switching transistor to the heat sink or any ground with a metal object!

Virtually any automotive parts supply store carries the stock type Chrysler electronic ignition control module. They retail for about $21.00 and up. Various manufacturer's part numbers are: EL110 (G.P. SORENSEN, available at Advance Auto Parts stores); MPETP50SB (NAPA); LX101 (STANDARD); CBE14 (Borg-Warner); AL403 (NIEH); TP51 (ECHLIN, available at NAPA Auto Parts stores); CH301 (FILK); CR109 (WELLS); E106 (KEM); C1900Z (AC DELCO) and AL-401 (NIEHOFF IGNITION). Or just tell the counter person it's for a 1972 Chrysler Imperial.

ü A Ballast Resister or a Full-Length Resistance Ignition Wire is required with the Chrysler module!
The Chrysler electronic ignition control module (off any 1972-85 Chrysler, Dodge or Plymouth vehicle), whether if it's a stock or a high performance one, require a ballast resistor (off any 1955-57 GM vehicle) or a full-length resistance ignition wire (off any 1958-74 GM vehicle) to prevent putting too much voltage in it and burning it up. It's best to use a minimum 1.2 ohm ballast resistor for the Chrysler electronic ignition control module. Anything less, and the module could burn up. A ballast resistor or resistor wire is basically a voltage reducer that reduces 12 volts down to between 6-9 volts, depending on the load. (The ballast resistor shown here is the same used on the 1955-57 GM vehicles.) The reason the Chrysler module doesn't have an internal resistor is because as the resistor heats up while the module is in operation, the heat from the resistor could travel to and damage other sensitive internal electronic components within the module.


ü Another type of electronic ignition control module/unit (ICU) that works great for crank trigger ignition is one that's made for various domestic Ford, Lincoln and Mercury vehicles. This type of module operates with full 12 volts, which means it does not require a ballast resistor. It's also a high-output/performance low saturation module when used on a small engine or garden pulling tractor. And just like the Chrysler module above, this one is also vibration-resistant because the internal electronic components are sealed in epoxy. This means there's no internal wires to vibrate and break due to normal engine vibration. The correct module to use has a blue grommet and comes with its own wiring harness. The OEM connectors/plugs can be snipped off and crimp-type connectors installed when used on a small engine or garden pulling tractor. Ground the module with the mounting base holes so it will work. This module can also be used with virtually any ignition coil, regardless of the ohms resistance or voltage output. And this is not a spark advance module. The ignition timing stays constant at all times with this module. Which means it doesn't advance or retard the timing at any RPM. I offer this module for sale further down in this website.

FYI - The electronic ignition control modules that's mentioned in this website are designed for older automobiles with a mechanical timing advance (flyweights) built into the distributor. The newer control modules that can retard and advance the timing use multiple sensors, one to tell the module that the engine isn't running, therefore, it retards the timing so the engine will start easier. And another sensor to send the signal that the engine is running, and then another sensor to advance the timing so the engine will produce full power. The distributor for these don't have (or need) a mechanical timing advance.

Here's a list of Ford and Motorcraft part numbers for the Ford blue grommet electronic ignition control module/unit (ICU) :
Auto Parts Stores Cross Reference -
FF402 (NIEHOFF); MF-481 (Mitech); F0306 (Filko); F102 (AmpcoWells); E302 (Kem); EL107M (G.P. SORENSEN, available at Advance Auto Parts stores); LX203 (STANDARD); F1910 (AC DELCO), ECHTP36 or ECHTP40 (ECHLIN, available at NAPA auto parts stores); F100 (Duralast).

Ford -
D6AB-12A199-A1B, A2B; D6AE-12A199-A1A, A1B, A2A, A2B, AA; D6AZ-12A199-A, B; D6TE-12A199-A1A D6TZ-12A-199-A; D7AZ-12A199-B; D8AE-12A199-A1E; D8VE-12A199-A1A, A1B, A1C, A2A, A2B, A2C; D9VZ-12A199-A; E1FZ-12A199-A; E8PF-12A199-AA, AB; E9VZ-12A199-A; F2PF-12A199-AA; F2PZ-12A199-AA.

Motorcraft -
DY-184, A, B, C; DY-198, DY337, DY-611, DY-683, DY-893.

Donor Vehicles -
American Motors: AMX 78-80; Concord 78-81,83; Eagle 80-81, 83-87; Gremlin 77-78; Hornet 77; Matador 77-78; Pacer 77-80; Spirit 79-81,83.
Ford: Bronco 76-87; Custom 75-77; E Van 89-89,95; Elite 75-76; Escort 81-82; EXP 82; F Pickup 76-87,97; Fairmont 78-83; Fiesta 78-80; Gran Torino 75-76; Granada 75-82; LTD 75-86; LTD II 77-79; Maverick 76-77; Mustang 79-85; Mustang II 76-78; P series 76-77; Pinto 76-80; Ranchero 76-79; Ranger 83-88; Tempo 84-87; Thunderbird 75-83; Torino 75-76.
Jeep: Cherokee 77-85; CJ5 77-83; CJ7 77-86; Grand Wagoneer 84-87; J series 77-87; Scrambler 81-85; Wagoneer 77-85.
Lincoln: Continental 76-80, 83-85; Mark IV 76; Mark V 77-79; Mark VI 80,82-83; Town Car 82-83; Versailles 77-80.
Mercury: Bobcat 76-80; Capri 77-76,79-86; Comet 76-77; Cougar 76-84; Grand Marquis 76-83; LN7 82; Lynx 81-82; Marquis 76-85; Monarch 76-80; Montego 76; Topaz 84-87; Zephyr 78-83.

The electronic ignition control module, magnetic pickup coil or inductive proximity sensor could burn up (possibly instantly) if the wires aren't connected to the right terminals! When connecting the wires, take your time and make sure to use different colored wires to avoid confusion. And be sure to fasten all wiring securely to avoid breakage or loose connections from normal engine or tractor vibration. And when mounting the Chrysler module, mount it away from excessive heat and remember that the exposed power transistor is electrically hot while the power is on. The module should be mounted in an area which minimizes the possibility of shorting the transistor when working in the engine area. Shorting the power transistor to the heat sink or any ground could damage the module.


Engines can't start under full compression and with advanced ignition timing. One or the other must be "suppressed" in order for the engine to crank over without "kicking back" to start. Either it needs to have a compression release to relieve about half the compression, then the compression will return to full upon start up, or the timing needs to be positioned at TDC, then it can automatically advance upon start up.

The only reason any engine would need the ignition timing retarded or a spark advance system is so the engine won't "kick back" when attempting to start it. "Kick back" occurs when the crankshaft/flywheel suddenly and violently rebounds or rotates in the opposite direction, which is could bend or break the starter armature shaft or the aluminum starter housing. Virtually all small gas engines nowadays have a compression relief mechanism on the camshaft (that opens the exhaust valve slightly halfway on the compression stroke), which allows the engine to crank over easily without kicking back. And most pulling engines have a long duration camshaft with the compression relief mechanism (if using a cast cam) and a heavier-than-stock [steel] flywheel. Which will also allow an engine to crank over easily without kicking back when starting. So you see, a spark advance really isn't necessary.


Magnetic pickup coils and proximity sensors are very sensitive to mechanical damage (and electrical damage if connected wrong). For magnetic pickup coils, set the air gap/clearance from the detection/trigger target (screw, pin or small raised area on the rotating disc) at .010" - .060" with a brass, plastic, poster board, stainless steel (anything non-magnetic) feeler gauge. And being inductive proximity sensors have a farther detection distance, set the air gap/clearance at .010" - .188". If the gap is wider than specified with either sensor, the engine could misfire at higher RPM. Direct metal contact with either sensor could damage them. When in doubt if a sensor is mechanically damaged, look at the end of it with the strong magnifying glass to see any damage. If it is damaged, it needs to be replaced. A magnetic pickup coil can be tested with a digital multimeter set on 200m DC, with the negative lead of the meter on the white wire of the pickup coil and positive lead on the black wire, then pass a small steel screw or bolt over the end of the magnetic pickup coil. If the meter shows a reading, the pickup coil is in good condition.


(Updated and Corrected 6/9/17)
Electronic Ignition Control Module/Unit (ICU) Wiring Connections/Diagrams with a Magnetic Pickup Coil and Proximity Sensor


GM HEI 4-Pin Electronic Ignition Control Module Wiring Connections/Diagram with a Magnetic Pickup Coil

This ignition system operates with full 12 volts. It is recommended only for ordinary lawn and garden equipment.


GM HEI 4-Pin Electronic Ignition Control Module Wiring Connections/Diagram with a Cube-Shaped High-Output 3-Wire Inductive Proximity Sensor (Updated 6/9/17)

This ignition system operates with full 12 volts. UPDATED 8/8/17: Now the OEM/ordinary GM HEI ignition control module lives up to its name, High Energy Ignition! When used on a small engine, in order for an OEM/ordinary HEI module allow the engine to accelerate at full speed, it must be used with the cube-shaped high-output 3-wire inductive proximity sensor, and can be used with virtually any ignition coil, regardless of the ohms resistance or voltage output, even with a suppression/carbon core spark plug wire and resistor spark plug gapped at .035". This concept revolutionizes the use of this small, compact and versatile module! This is a thoroughly tested, researched and proven reliable ignition system by Brian Miller for ordinary lawn and garden engines and competition pulling engines. NOTE: I found that certain Chinese-made stock/ordinary GM HEI 4-pin modules will not produce a spark when used with the cube-shaped high-output inductive proximity sensor. They will only work with a magnetic pickup coil.


Chrysler / Dodge / Plymouth Electronic Ignition Control Module/Unit Wiring Connections/Diagram with a Magnetic Pickup Coil

This module requires a minimum 1.2 ohm ballast resistor to prevent from burning up unit. Can be used with virtually any magnetic pickup coil or proximity sensor and ignition coil, regardless of the ohms resistance or voltage output, and will produce a strong spark so the engine will idle smooth and accelerate quickly to full speed (wide open throttle) with no hesitation or misfire.


Chrysler / Dodge / Plymouth Electronic Ignition Control Module /Unit Wiring Connections/Diagram with an Inductive or Hall Effect Proximity Sensor

This module requires a minimum 1.2 ohm ballast resistor to prevent from burning up unit. Can be used with virtually any magnetic pickup coil or proximity sensor and ignition coil, regardless of the ohms resistance or voltage output, and will produce a strong spark so the engine will idle smooth and accelerate quickly to full speed (wide open throttle) with no hesitation or misfire.


Ford / Mercury / Lincoln Electronic Ignition Control Module/Unit Wiring Connections/Diagram with a Magnetic Pickup Coil

This ignition system operates with full 12 volts. Can be used with virtually any magnetic pickup coil or proximity sensor and ignition coil, regardless of the ohms resistance or voltage output, and will produce a strong spark so the engine will idle smooth and accelerate quickly to full speed (wide open throttle) with no hesitation or misfire.


Ford / Mercury / Lincoln Electronic Ignition Control Module/Unit Wiring Connections/Diagram with an Inductive or Hall Effect Proximity Sensor

This ignition system operates with full 12 volts. Can be used with virtually any magnetic pickup coil or proximity sensor and ignition coil, regardless of the ohms resistance or voltage output, and will produce a strong spark so the engine will idle smooth and accelerate quickly to full speed (wide open throttle) with no hesitation or misfire.


Crank trigger ignition will work on virtually any single or multiple cylinder gas engine.

Degree Increments for a Super Spacer or Rotary Table with a Self-Centering 3-Jaw Chuck -
This chart is for installing multiple detector/trigger screws or pins in the ignition disc for the crank trigger ignition. It also comes in handy for drilling 5 holes in axle flanges and other things.
NOTE: The degrees shown is not for the spark to occur at 0º TDC for each cylinder. They are so each cylinder will have equal timing or distance of spark between them.

Number of holes to be drilled - 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th 6th 7th 8th 9th
For a 2 cylinder engine or 2 holes 180º
For a 3 cylinder engine or 3 holes 120º 240º
For a 4 cylinder engine or 4 holes 90º 180º 270º
For 5 holes 72º 144º 216º 288º
For a 6 cylinder engine or 6 holes 60º 120º 180º 240º 300º
For an 8 cylinder engine or 8 holes 45º 90º 135º 180º 225º 270º 315º
For 9 holes 40º 80º 120º 160º 200º 240º 280º 320º

In a multi-cylinder engine, when each detector/trigger target (screw or pin) is equally spaced apart in the ignition disc and the timing for each screw is precisely aligned when its piston is at whatever degrees BTDC it's supported be, they will fire at whatever degrees BTDC for that piston. It wouldn't matter if a screw creates a spark when the piston that isn't aligned with it or near TDC because there wouldn't be any compression at the position. It'll be a multiple, but wasted spark. This is why MSD (MSD Performance) stands for Multiple Spark Discharge.

When using a magnetic pickup coil or a normally open inductive proximity sensor for a multi-cylinder engine, a steel go kart sprocket can be used as the trigger disc. The pickup coil or sensor will detect the [raised] sprocket teeth as the triggering objects. And being sprocket teeth are equally spaced apart, they're already degreed in. Use an even number teeth sprocket for an even numbered spark engine, and an odd number teeth sprocket for an odd numbered spark engine. Just grind away the teeth between the ones that needs to make the spark for each cylinder. But be sure to grind away the metal so the disc will maintain perfect balance.


Crank trigger ignition will spark on the compression stroke for each piston when used on a multiple cylinder engine. It'll also work excellent on any 2-cycle engine, because it fires on every stroke of the piston. On a twin or two cylinder engine, use just one Chrysler or Ford electronic ignition control module/unit (ICU) , one magnetic pickup coil or inductive proximity sensor, one detector/trigger target (screw or pin) in the ignition disc located at approximately 20º BTDC on the compression for the #1 cylinder. It'll spark for the #2 cylinder at 20º BTDC on the compression stroke, too. And you could install two standard-output automotive ignition coils, one for each cylinder. Wire them together as you would for one coil. As the detector/trigger target (screw or pin) pass the pickup coil, a spark will be produced for each cylinder, one piston being on the compression stroke and the other on the exhaust stroke and vice-versa. It'll work identically the same as Briggs & Stratton's Magnetron™ ignition on their twin cylinder flathead (valves in block) engines. Because the flathead Briggs twins use a single ignition coil. By the way, the stock timing on Briggs engines for gas is set at 11º BTDC. Special-made offset flywheel keys for Briggs & Stratton engines.To advance the timing for methanol fuel, a special-made 3/16" square offset flywheel key must be used. Offset flywheel keys are originally made for racing go-karts and Junior Dragsters with the 5hp Briggs & Stratton engine. They come in 2º, 4º, 6º and 8º increments. Do a Google search for an offset flywheel key. Use the 6º key for a setting of 17º BTDC (11º + 6º = 17º). A special-made key stock will need to be used when advancing the ignition timing on an engine that use a woodruff flywheel key (Kohler Magnum).

For a Kohler Magnum or any other make of engine with fixed solid state ignition, to advance the ignition timing when burning either E-85 or methanol fuel, either an offset flywheel key will need to be installed, or a new keyway will need to be broached in the flywheel taper a several degrees advanced from the original keyway. Precise calculation will need to be made to determine the amount of offset in the key, or where the new keyway should be. If cutting a new keyway, the original keyway will need to be filled-in with either bronze brazing or steel stock the same width as the keyway silver-soldered in place to prevent the metal from breaking next to the original keyway when broaching the new keyway slot.

For crank trigger ignition to work on a V-twin small gas engine (B&S Vanguard, Honda, Kawasaki, Kohler Command, etc.), one magnetic pickup coil will need to be used per cylinder and use one control module with dual coils or a GM DIS (Distributorless Ignition System) coil. Position each pickup coil in place where the original ignition coils. And because of the magnet in the flywheel, a different [steel] flywheel will need to used, or replace the magnet with a piece of secured steel weighing the same as the magnet or have the flywheel rebalanced. Then install one detector/trigger target (screw, pin) in the flywheel where the magnet was so the ignition will be in time with each magnetic pickup coil.


If installed correctly, nothing could possibly go wrong with the crank trigger ignition system. Mainly because everything is totally sealed. There's no moving parts to wear and it could very well outlast the life of a typical tractor, even when used in high performance conditions! It's virtually maintenance free, extremely reliable. That's why auto manufacturers, virtually all small engine manufacturers (Kohler's Magnum engines ignition system operates much like crank trigger ignition) and most high performance/racing vehicles nowadays use electronic [or better yet, computerized] ignition. Plus it's something fancy to show off. It's powered by full 12 volts and features a more stable spark than the convention point ignition. You can also use your existing standard ignition coil. And remember, a high-output/performance low saturation ignition coil will draw more power from the battery.

Crank trigger ignition will work on virtually any small engine, but only if there's room on the crankshaft (preferably the PTO end, which is opposite the flywheel end) for mounting of the rotating disc that contains the detector/trigger target (screw, pin, magnet, or small raised area on the rotating disc) (see below Ê). The detector/trigger screw(s) or small magnet can also be fastened onto the factory flywheel. Be sure to allow the head of [each] screw extend approximately 1/8" above the outer edge of the flywheel to prevent out of time spark. And when mounting the magnetic pickup coil or inductive proximity sensor, make sure it's mounted rigid and stable to prevent erratic timing fluctuations.

On a single cylinder engine, this type of ignition will produce a spark on both the compression and exhaust strokes, which is harmless. Camshaft driven point ignitions only spark during the compression stroke. By the way, Kohler engine is mentioned here only as an example, because they're most common in garden tractor pulling.

The crank trigger ignition system is nothing to be afraid of. Once you understand how it works, it's actually quite simple and you'd feel more confident using it. Also, once you've tried this type of ignition, you'd be reluctant to go back to points. If the crank trigger ignition is installed correctly on an engine and the timing is set right, it'll bring a pulling tractor to life and help it scream down the track! But if an engine already have a factory-installed solid state ignition that is triggered off the flywheel, you really don't need crank trigger ignition. Factory-installed flywheel-triggered ignitions are very stable, reliable and they produce a strong spark. But if you're installing a machined steel flywheel with no detector/trigger magnets or pins on an engine that originally came with solid state ignition and/or there's no provisions (no threaded bolt holes present) on the block to install points, you will need the crank trigger ignition system.


Degreeing the ignition disc -

To simplify degreeing the ignition disc, after finding true 0º TDC on the disc, use a 6" protractor to make timing degree marks on the disc. Refer to the animated drawing to the right for identification. Hold the protractor on the disc, align the 0º TDC mark on the disc with the zero on the protractor, and then, facing the disc as if it were mounted on the PTO end of the engine, and with the magnetic pickup coil or inductive proximity sensor mounted either above the disc or on the side of the engine block, make the marks on the disc going counterclockwise of the TDC mark. Going counterclockwise of the 0º TDC mark would be advancing the ignition timing, and clockwise of the 0º TDC mark would be retarding it. Degree it as shown in the drawing to the left. But make sure that the marks on the disc are according to how the disc is going to be mounted on the crankshaft, with the center protruding hub facing toward the engine or away from it. Otherwise, the marks could be on the wrong side of the disc. (Most of the time, the protruding part of the hub face away from the engine.)

The ignition disc doesn't have to be made of aluminum. If there's a steel hub or disc mounted on the end of the crankshaft, it could be used to trigger the ignition. As long as the head(s) of the detector/trigger target(s) is/are higher than the outer edge of the [steel] hub, the magnetic pickup coil or inductive proximity sensor will detect it/them and not the hub or disc.

NOTE: The detector/trigger target (screw or pin) can be located anywhere in the ignition disc, as long as it's positioned 20º BTDC. Find the true 0º TDC on the disc, then locate the 20º BTDC position from there. On an engine that runs clockwise when facing the front of the engine (flywheel or harmonic balancer), with the disc on the PTO end of the crank, and when facing the PTO end, the 20º position will be counterclockwise from the 0º TDC mark. On flywheel end, the 20º BTDC position is clockwise from 0º TDC.

Use a Sprocket as an Ignition Disc -

If you don't have a capabilities to machine your own ignition disc, then using a steel sprocket with all but one tooth removed should work excellent. Just make sure the sprocket is perfectly round and balanced so the engine won't vibrate. Use a Weld-A-Sprocket hub or some type of hub to securely fasten the sprocket disc to for correct alignment of the ignition timing. And as long as the single tooth is extended a minimum of 1/4" higher than the rest of the disc, and the disc is not oblong or egg-shaped, the sensor should detect it instead of the disc. And as for the diameter of the disc, for most engines, a 6" diameter disc works well. But just to make sure for any particular engine, figure where the sensor will be mounted and then measure out from the center of the crankshaft to the end of the sensor.


Set the ignition timing according to piston travel in the cylinder, as mentioned earlier in this web page. Install a timing degree indicator mark (with a felt marker) on the disc and a mark on the engine block, then make a final check of the ignition timing with engine running using an inductive strobe timing light. The timing light connects to the battery and spark plug wire.


How It Works:

The magnetic pickup coil or inductive proximity sensor is able to detect the presence of the detector/trigger target (screw, pin, small magnet, or small raised area on the rotating disc) without any physical contact. Each time the detector/trigger target in the rotating disc passes the magnetic pickup coil or inductive proximity sensor, this generates a small electrical current within the pickup coil or sensor. This current is sent in the form of a signal to the electronic ignition control module/unit (ICU) ; within, a transistor opens the primary circuit in the ignition coil and the spark occurs. All this happens at the speed of electricity, which can be anywhere from about 50% to 99% of the speed of light, depending upon the wire connections and quality of the circuitry. Each module provides unlimited RPM. The conventional ignition points and condenser/capacitor ignition system is less responsive.

Checking for Spark -

Because this system produces a spark at very low cranking speeds, once installed, you can check/test for spark simply by rotating the crankshaft (rotating disc) back and forth by hand so the steel detector/trigger target (screw, pin, small magnet, or small raised area on the rotating disc) pass the magnetic pickup coil or inductive proximity sensor. But turn the ignition switch on first. Also, after the engine is ran, and because there may be some raw fuel remaining in the combustion chamber, crank trigger ignition will produce a single spark each time the ignition switch is turned on. Sometimes this spark will make the engine go "POOF", which is harmless in most cases.

How to Test if a GM HEI 4-pin, Chrysler (w/ballast resistor) or Ford Electronic Ignition Control Module/Unit is Functioning or Not -

To test if a GM HEI 4-pin, Chrysler (w/ballast resistor) or Ford electronic ignition control module is functioning or not, connect a fully charged 1.5 volt [flashlight] battery to the two terminals on the module that connects to the magnetic pickup coil or inductive proximity sensor (being there's no polarity in these modules, it doesn't matter which of the two terminals is connected to the battery, but disconnect the pickup coil first!) and connect the other terminals/wires on the module as shown in the diagrams above. With the battery connected, a constant, continuous array of sparks should result at the spark plug's tip. Don't connect the battery to the magnetic pickup coil! It'll burn it up! This test proves only if the module is functioning or not. It won't show if it's in good working condition. (FYI - The continuous spark would come in handy as a temporary or replacement pilot light, such as to ignite a burner in a gas stove/heater or forced air heater when the factory igniter unit has failed.) And don't use a 12 volt automotive portable battery charger alone to supply the power to check/test for spark or test a module. If a battery charger is used, the crank trigger ignition system may produce a constant, continuous array of sparks at the spark plug's tip even when the magnetic pickup coil or inductive proximity sensor (or 1.5 volt battery) isn't connected. Battery chargers constantly switch between high to low voltage at 60 cycles per second. The crank trigger ignition module sees this as the ignition being switched on and off, resulting in the constant, continuous array of sparks described above. Therefore, only a fully charged 12 volt battery should be used for testing.

How to Check for Spark with the GM HEI 4-pin, Chrysler (w/ballast resistor) or Ford Modules -

After either ignition system is installed on the engine and power is supplied, simply rotate the flywheel, pulley, etc., containing the detector/trigger target (screw, pin, small magnet, or small raised area on the rotating disc) on the crankshaft back and forth by hand. Each time the screw passes the sensor, spark should occur. NOTE: Do not use a battery charger alone to perform this test. Battery chargers constantly switch between high and low voltage at 60 cycles per second, and the module sees this as the ignition being switched on and off resulting in a continuous, constant array of sparks. By the way - I have not received any complaints from our customers or the readers of this website concerning the crank trigger ignition about their engine(s) running erratic or misfiring at high RPM, unless of course, the sensor has too much clearance or they installed a defective module.

The simple way to set the ignition timing STATICALLY (engine not running) for the GM HEI 4-pin, Chrysler (w/ballast resistor) or Ford modules -

  1. Rotate the crankshaft by hand to align the timing marks or timing tape on flywheel or starter pulley with the pointer to set the timing where it needs to be.
  2. With the locking magnet ring loose on the crankshaft, rotate the ring by hand to align the magnet with the center of the sensor/module.
  3. Securely tighten the Allen set screw and the engine can now be started.

How to accurately set the ignition timing STATICALLY (engine not running) for the GM HEI 4-pin, Chrysler (w/ballast resistor) or Ford modules - (This is also how to test if the module is functioning or not.)

  1. Connect the wires correctly for the sensor/module as specified in this website with a fully charged 12 volt battery connected in the circuit.
  2. Connect a 12 volt test light or multimeter [set on the 12 volt reading] between the negative (–) coil terminal and engine/chassis ground. The light should be off or the multimeter should show no voltage reading.
  3. Rotate the crankshaft to position the flywheel, pulley, etc., with the desired timing mark aligned with the timing pointer or indicator on the engine. This is close to where the timing needs to be set.
  4. If using a locking magnet or screw head ring, with the Allen set screw loose in the ring, rotate the ring side to side by hand when the detector/trigger (screw, pin, small magnet, or small raised area on the rotating disc) is centered with the magnetic pickup coil or inductive proximity sensor.
    • For the magnetic pickup coil, the light should flicker or the multimeter should momentarily display approximate battery voltage (digital meter) or the needle should bounce (analog meter). It is at this point when spark occurs.
    • For the inductive proximity sensor, the light should stay on or the multimeter should show approximate battery voltage. The LED in the inductive proximity sensor can also be used for this test. It is at this point when spark occurs.
  5. Tighten the Allen set screw in the ring on the crankshaft. The ignition timing is now set close to where it needs to be.

How to precisely set the ignition timing DYNAMICALLY (engine running) with an automotive inductive timing light for the GM HEI 4-pin, Chrysler (w/ballast resistor) or Ford modules. (This is the most accurate way to set the timing.) NOTE: Timing can be checked, but not set while the engine is running!

  1. Start the engine, shine the timing light on the timing mark on the flywheel, pulley, etc., in relation with the pointer on the engine block to see exactly where the timing needs to be set.
  2. If the timing is not set correctly, shut off the engine and loosen the Allen set screw in the locking magnet ring, or move the magnetic pickup coil or inductive proximity sensor one way or the other in the slot to advance or retard the timing, and tighten the Allen set screw in the ring, or magnetic pickup coil or inductive proximity sensor.
  3. Start the engine again, shine the timing light to see if the timing is set exactly where it needs to be.
  4. Repeat steps 1, 2 and 3 if necessary until the timing is set exactly where it needs to be, and securely tighten the Allen set screw, or magnetic pickup coil or inductive proximity sensor.
  5. No further adjustments are required.

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If you need any of the parts or services listed below Ê, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends (except Holidays). Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival. Fax: 1-573-449-7347. E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. Please click here to place an order.
FYI - I can install a crank trigger ignition system and/or rewire your lawn & garden tractor, equipment or garden pulling tractor so all the electrical accessories will work and the engine will start quickly every time. I have the knowledge, skills, all the tools and parts necessary to perform a quality job. I've rewired many customer's lawn & garden tractor/equipment or garden pulling tractor with great results. If you're interested, my phone numbers, address and directions to my shop are above È. - Brian Miller
100% Digital Crank Trigger Ignition Kits with Self-Contained Dynatek Dyna S or PerTronix Ignitor Sensor/Modules for Single- or Opposed Twin-Cylinder Engines - (Updated 3/30/17)

A new way to revolutionize the ignition system on virtually any small gas engine! Virtually trouble- and maintenance-free, and water-proof. These ignition modules/sensors is a small, lightweight, compact and completely self-contained electronic ignition system built with the latest state-of-the-art engineering with the use of microelectronics. Fits entirely on the PTO end of the engine block; no ignition box and additional wiring to clutter the engine compartment because the electronic ignition control module and pickup coil/sensor are contained in the same sealed casing. The Dynatek Dyna S and PerTronix Ignitor sensor/modules will allow the engine to idle smoothly and accelerate quickly to full speed (wide open throttle) with no hesitation or misfire.

The Dynatek Dyna S sensor/module operates on 12-1/2 to 15 volts negative ground, and requires an ignition coil with a 3.0 ohm resistor. And the PerTronix Ignitor sensor/module operates on 8 to 15 volts negative ground, and also require an ignition coil with a 3.0 ohm resistor. Using a coil with either sensor/module with less than total of 3.0 ohms of primary resistance for a long period of time will cause them to overheat and the engine may misfire until it cools down, or the sensor/module might fail prematurely. A suppression/carbon core or metal core spark plug wire, and/or resistor-type or non-resistor/copper core spark plug can be used. If the voltage drops below the minimum requirement for either sensor/module, the engine may idle well, but not accelerate, or the engine may run erratic. Either module/sensor can be used with a standard-output or high-output/performance low saturation ignition coil, as long as the coil has a 3.0 ohm internal primary resistor, or a ballast resistor is connected that totals 3.0 ohms of resistance. NOTE: A metal core spark plug wire can be used with either sensor/module. Being metal core spark plug wires do not suppress electro magnetic interference (EMI) which will interfere with electronics in the PerTronix Ignitor, if engine runs erratic or misfires, then a suppression/carbon core spark plug wire should be used instead.

These crank trigger ignition setups have been thoroughly tested and proven very reliable for general lawn and garden use, and all classes of single and twin cylinder competition pulling engines. One sensor/module is needed for an opposed twin cylinder engine, and two modules/sensors spaced precisely at 90º apart are required for V-twin engines. These are the same ignition used by professional pullers everywhere. Reliable at high RPMs, the Dynatek Dyna S or PerTronix Ignitor modules provides unlimited RPM. They will allow an engine at the speed of electricity, which can be anywhere from about 50% to 99% of the speed of light, depending upon the wire and insulation composition and construction.

Spark occurs when a small and super strong neodymium/rare earth magnet embedded in an aluminum locking ring, which is much like an automotive reluctor ring, that's fastened on the crankshaft's PTO end pass the sensor/module. (Neodymium and rare earth magnets are the strongest available. Five times stronger than ceramic (ferrite) magnets for a stronger detection.) Either sensor/module packs a lot of punch and allows the ignition system operate at 100% efficiency for a stronger spark.

Dynatek Dyna S and PerTronix Ignitor Crank Trigger Ignition Installation Instructions -

Unlike the competitor's, our universal flat mounting plate can be adapted for use on various makes and models of one or two cylinder (twin opposing cylinders) engines by drilling new mounting holes. And being there are so many different bolt patterns on the PTO end of Kohler and other makes and models of engines, these are not a simple "one kit fits all" bolt-on ignition kit. Therefore, customer will need to locate and drill holes in the mounting plate in alignment with the bolt holes on the PTO end of the engine block. If there are no bolt hole(s) on the PTO end of the block, they will need to be drilled and tapped. Minimum of 1/4" bolts can be used. Locate and drill (machine) slotted adjustment holes in the mounting plate, fasten plate to PTO end of engine block. And then drill and cut 4-40 UNC threads in the mounting plate for positioning/clearance of the sensor/module clearance to the locking magnet ring. Additional spacing of modules/sensor may be required so magnet will be aligned with the center of the sensor on various applications. The air gap/clearance between the sensor/module and locking magnet ring is .010" - .060". Sensor/module may not operate or engine may misfire if gap is wider than .060". When mounting the GM HEI module, always fasten it with dielectric grease on a clean, flat aluminum plate with plenty of fresh air circulation to dissipate the heat while in operation. NOTE: Do not allow sensor/module to make contact with locking magnet ring while engine is running!

NOTE: The Dynatek Dyna S and PerTronix Ignitor crank trigger ignition kits just below Ê installs and operate off the PTO end of the engine block, and is intended for competition pulling only. For crank trigger ignition kits that installs and operate off the flywheel end of the engine recommended mainly for ordinary lawn and garden equipment, click HERE.


Easy Wiring Connections for the Dynatek Dyna S sensor/module. Wires must NOT be connected in reverse or sensor/module will burn up instantly when power is supplied!

  • If the sensor/module has RED and BLACK color wires:
    • Connect Red wire to positive (+) coil terminal and ignition switch (battery positive (+) post).
    • Connect Black wire to negative (–) coil terminal. If you're using the grounding-type of killswitch, connect the wire from the killswitch to this terminal.
    • Connect metal base of sensor/module to engine/chassis ground (battery negative (–) post.
  • If the sensor/module has RED and WHITE color wires:
    • Connect Red wire to positive (+) coil terminal and ignition switch (battery positive (+) post).
    • Connect White wire to negative (–) coil terminal. If you're using the grounding-type of killswitch, connect the wire from the killswitch to this terminal.
    • Connect metal base of sensor/module to engine/chassis ground (battery negative (–) post).
  • If the sensor/module has BLUE and WHITE color wires:
    • Connect White wire to positive (+) coil terminal and ignition switch (battery positive (+) post).
    • Connect Blue wire to negative (–) coil terminal. If you're using the grounding-type of killswitch, connect the wire from the killswitch to this terminal.
    • Connect metal base of sensor/module to engine/chassis ground (battery negative (–) post).
  • Dynatek Dyna S Complete Custom Install-It-Yourself Kit. Each kit includes the Dynatek Dyna S non-magnetic sensor/module, 1/8" x 1-1/2" x 4-1/2" or 1/8" x 3" x 4-1/2" (depending on bolt pattern on engine block) flat steel mounting plate, locking magnet ring with embedded detector/trigger magnet and Allen set screw, two 4-40 UNC Allen head screws and nylon strap w/screw to secure wires to mounting plate. Please email picture of bolt pattern on engine block and specify diameter of crankshaft PTO end for locking magnet ring. $90.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling. Click here to print out these installation and timing instructions.
  • Dynatek Dyna S non-magnetic sensor/module. (Use with locking magnet ring.) $70.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Aluminum Locking Magnet Ring with Allen Set Screw. Please specify diameter of crankshaft PTO end for locking magnet ring. Most common diameters are 1" and 1-1/8", but 3/4", 1-1/4", 1-3/8", 1-7/16" and 1-1/2" are rare. And most billet steel crankshafts have a 1-1/2" diameter PTO end (raised shoulder). Locking magnet rings measures: 3/4" i.d. x 1-1/4" o.d., 1" i.d. x 1-1/2" o.d., 1-1/8" i.d. x 1-3/4" o.d., 1-1/4" i.d. x 2" o.d., 1-3/8" i.d. x 2-1/8" o.d., 1-7/16" i.d. x 2-1/4" o.d., 1-1/2" i.d. x 2-1/4" o.d. Other sizes available. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


  • PerTronix Ignitor 1 and 2 Complete Custom Install-It-Yourself Kits. Each kit includes the non-magnetic PerTronix Ignitor sensor/module, 1/8" thick x 1-1/2" height x 4-1/2" wide or 1/8" thick x 3" height x 4-1/2" wide (depending on bolt pattern on engine block) flat aluminum mounting plate, locking magnet ring, two 4-40 UNC Phillips head screws w/lock washers and nylon strap w/screw to secure wires to mounting plate. Please email picture of bolt pattern on engine block and specify diameter of crankshaft PTO end for locking magnet ring. Click here to print out these installation and timing instructions.
    • Kit with Non-Magnetic PerTronix Ignitor 1 sensor/module. Use with minimum 3.0 ohm coil regardless of the voltage output, and with locking magnet ring. $70.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
    • Kit with Non-Magnetic PerTronix Ignitor 2 sensor/module. Can be used with virtually any coil regardless of the ohms resistance or voltage output. Automatically shuts off if ignition switch is left on with engine not running for long period of time. Use with locking magnet ring. $90.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Locking Magnet Ring. Please specify diameter of crankshaft PTO end for locking magnet ring. Most common diameters are 1" and 1-1/8", but 3/4", 1-1/4", 1-3/8", 1-7/16" and 1-1/2" are rare. And most billet steel crankshafts have a 1-1/2" diameter PTO end (raised shoulder). Locking magnet rings measures: 3/4" i.d. x 1-1/4" o.d., 1" i.d. x 1-1/2" o.d., 1-1/8" i.d. x 1-3/4" o.d., 1-1/4" i.d. x 2" o.d., 1-3/8" i.d. x 2-1/8" o.d., 1-7/16" i.d. x 2-1/4" o.d., 1-1/2" i.d. x 2-1/4" o.d. Other sizes available. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Easy Wiring Connections for the PerTronix Ignitor 1 and 2 sensors/modules. IMPORTANT: Wires must NOT be connected in reverse or sensor/module may burn up instantly when power is supplied!

  • Connect RED wire to positive (+) coil terminal and ignition switch (battery positive (+) post).
  • Connect BLACK wire to negative (–) coil terminal. If you're using the grounding-type of killswitch, connect the wire from the killswitch to this terminal.
  • Connect base of sensor/module to engine/chassis ground (battery negative (–) post).


Crank Trigger Electronic Ignition Kit with GM HEI 4-Pin Electronic Ignition Control Module and Cube-Shaped High-Output Inductive 3-Wire Proximity Sensor. Now the OEM/ordinary GM HEI electronic ignition control module lives up to its name, High Energy Ignition! This high performance ignition kit is mainly for competition pulling only and mounts on PTO end of engine block. Kit includes: Aluminum mounting plate, nylon zip tie to secure wires of sensor to mounting plate, two female wire crimp plug-on connectors and 1.5 ohm canister ignition coil w/mounting bracket and 13" suppression/carbon core spark plug wire, copper core spark plug and locking screw head ring. Please specify diameter of crankshaft PTO end for locking ring. Proximity sensor will be prewired to module. Just install, set air gap/clearance at .015" and connect the C terminal on the module to the negative (–) terminal on the ignition coil, and the B terminal on the module to the positive (+) terminal on the ignition coil. Click here for wiring diagrams. This system requires a high-output proximity sensor that sends more energy to an OEM/ordinary GM HEI module to produce a strong spark so the engine will idle smooth and accelerate quickly to full speed (wide open throttle) with no hesitation or misfire. This is a thoroughly tested and proven reliable ignition system by Brian Miller for ordinary lawn and garden engines and competition pulling engines.

  • $80.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.


How to Check for Spark and Set the Timing for the Dynatek Dyna S and PerTronix Ignitor module/sensors - After either setup is installed on the engine and power is supplied, simply rotate the locking magnet ring (loose) on the crankshaft back and forth by hand. Each time the embedded detector/trigger magnet pass the sensor/module, spark should occur. NOTE: Do not use a battery charger alone to perform this test. Battery chargers constantly switch between high and low voltage at 60 cycles per second, and the module sees this as the ignition being switched on and off resulting in a continuous, constant array of sparks.

The simple way to set the ignition timing STATICALLY (engine not running) for either sensor/module -

  1. Rotate the crankshaft by hand to align the timing marks or timing tape on flywheel or starter pulley with the pointer to set the timing where it needs to be.
  2. With the locking magnet ring loose on the crankshaft, rotate the ring by hand to align the magnet with the center of the sensor/module.
  3. Securely tighten the Allen set screw and the engine can now be started.

How to accurately set the ignition timing STATICALLY for the Dynatek Dyna S, PerTronix Ignitor and Inductive Proximity Sensor/Module - (This is also how to test if the sensor/modules or the ignition system is functioning or not.)

  1. Connect the wires correctly for either sensor/module as specified above with a fully charged 12 volt battery connected in the circuit. NOTE: Do not use a battery charger alone to perform this test. Battery chargers constantly switch between high and low voltage at 60 cycles per second, and the module sees this as the ignition being switched on and off resulting in a continuous, constant array of sparks.
  2. Connect a battery-powered test light or multimeter [set on the 12 volt reading] between the negative (–) coil terminal and engine/chassis ground.
    • For the non-magnetic Dyna S or Ignitor modules and inductive proximity sensor, with the magnet in the locking ring not centered or aligned with the sensor in the module, the light should be off or the multimeter should show no voltage.
    • For the magnetic Ignitor module, with the screw head in the locking ring not centered or aligned with the sensor in the module, the light should illuminate or the multimeter should show approximate battery voltage.
  3. Rotate the crankshaft to position the flywheel or starter pulley with the desired timing mark aligned with the timing pointer or indicator on the engine. This is close to where the timing needs to be set.
  4. With the Allen set screw loose in the locking ring, again...
    • For the non-magnetic Dyna S or Ignitor modules and inductive proximity sensor, with the magnet in the locking ring centered or aligned with the sensor in the module, the light should illuminate or the multimeter should show approximate battery voltage. It is at this point when spark occurs.
    • For the magnetic Ignitor module, with the screw head in the locking ring centered or aligned with the sensor in the module, the light should be off or the multimeter should show no voltage. It is at this point when spark occurs.
  5. Tighten the Allen set screw in the ring on the crankshaft. The ignition timing is now set close to where it needs to be.
  6. Something cool to show off: To make a 12 volt in-dash indicator light or LED flash while cranking the engine and illuminate while the engine is running, for the Dyna S, Ignitor modules or inductive proximity sensor connected to the HEI, Chrysler or Ford module, connect the light or LED to the negative (–) coil terminal and engine/chassis ground. The LED may shine bright, but the light will be dimly lit. The light or LED will not effect the performance of the ignition system whatsoever. It'll also let you know if the ignition system is working or not.

How to precisely set the ignition timing DYNAMICALLY (engine running) with an automotive inductive timing light for either sensor/module. (This is the most accurate way to set the timing.) NOTE: Timing can be checked, but not set while the engine is running! Do not allow sensor/module to make contact with locking magnet ring while engine is running! -

  1. Start the engine, shine the timing light on the timing mark on the flywheel or starter pulley in relation with the pointer on the engine block to see where the timing needs to be set. NOTE: Do not use a battery charger alone to perform this test. Battery chargers constantly switch between high and low voltage at 60 cycles per second, and the module sees this as the ignition being switched on and off resulting in a continuous, constant array of sparks.
  2. If the timing is not set correctly, shut off the engine and loosen the Allen set screw in the locking ring, slightly rotate crankshaft by hand one way or the other to advance or retard the timing, and position the ring with the magnet or screw head centered with the sensor in the module, and tighten the Allen set screw.
  3. Start the engine again, shine the timing light on the timing mark on the flywheel or starter pulley in relation with the pointer on the engine block to see if the timing is set where it needs to be.
  4. Repeat steps 1, 2 and 3 if necessary until the timing is set exactly where it needs to be, and securely tighten the Allen set screw.
  5. No further adjustments are required.


Crank Trigger Ignition Setups That Operates Off the Flywheel End of the Engine (Updated 7/10/17)

Get That Old Engine Running Again With 21st Century Technology Using 100% Digital Crank Trigger Electronic Ignition, Even When New Replacement Parts Are Obsolete or Cost-Prohibited!

This is the era of modern wonders, where everything is transistorized, digitized and miniaturized. Yet even today, many garden tractor pullers still use breaker point ignitions on their garden pulling tractors. For other people, the frustration of attempting to keep a breaker point-fired tractor in peak running condition has been enough of a reason to join the electronic era. Breaker point systems do have some positives, though. Points are cheap and somewhat easy to install. And many people are comfortable with installing their own points. The bad side of using points is, besides the points contacts burning, pitting and wearing out, if or when the point gap gets too narrow, the ignition timing can get retarded, and when it gets too wide, the timing will become too advanced.

When the timing is retarded, the engine may be difficult to start, and when does start, it may not idle well, and it'll lack sufficient power. Also, with retarded timing, all of the fuel in the combustion chamber will not be burned. Part of the raw fuel will exit out of the exhaust, while the rest will remain in the chamber combustion and cling to the cylinder wall, causing the lubricating oil (from the crankcase) to become diluted. When this happens, "cylinder wash down" will result. Cylinder wash down is when the gas dilutes the thin coat of oil on the cylinder wall, and the piston rings will no longer be adequately lubricated, causing them to wear excessively, resulting in a smoky engine overtime. Cylinder wash down can also happen to a diesel engine when the fuel injectors are "turned up" or fuel delivery is increased so the engine will produce more power. (It will also blow a lot more black smoke out the exhaust.)

But when the ignition timing is too advanced, this will cause the engine to run too hot, which will likely cause the piston to swell, allowing it to make metal to metal contact against the cylinder wall, causing excessive wear. And the rings will lose their expansion against the cylinder wall as well. Eventually, due to the lose-fitting piston in the cylinder, the engine will create a rattling sound and start smoking out the exhaust, and it will ultimately need to be rebuilt.

If installed correctly, crank trigger stabilizes the ignition timing, so you won't ever have to worry about it. The engine will produce more power and you will have more confidence that the engine will last longer. So for the utmost precision ignition timing and maintenance-free convenience, crank trigger ignition is the way to go! It will allow the engine to idle smoothly and accelerate quickly to full speed (wide open throttle) with no hesitation or misfire.

Tired of changing or constantly adjusting the ignition points? Convert to the 100% digitized crank trigger ignition! For improved performance, easier starting, and less moving parts to leave your tractor dead on the track. Shock and moisture resistant, and all it takes is a few simple hand tools to install. In my opinion, getting rid of the points and condenser/capacitor has been the best advance ever in engine technology.


If a Kohler flywheel has no projection (hump for Breakerless Ignition), but does have a 3/4" wide area between the fins and ring gear (as shown in the pictures above and to the right), or a billet steel flywheel, to use a magnetic pickup coil or inductive proximity sensor, a small, short hardened steel Phillips or button head socket head (Allen) screw secured with a split lock washer or high strength liquid threadlocker (Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent) can be used as the signal detection for the crank trigger ignition. Install the screw head extended a minimum of 1/4" above the surface of the flywheel to prevent any out of time spark occurrences by the flywheel itself. Or if using a non-magnetic pickup coil, hall effect proximity sensor or a non-magnetic PerTronix Ignitor sensor/module, a small ring magnet and small [hardened] screw can be used to create a rotating magnet detection target. The head of the retaining screw will become magnetized. An 8-32 UNF and 10-32 UNF x 1/2" length screws with a split lock washer (and small magnet) weighs about 1/10 of an ounce or 3 grams, so this will not make the flywheel significantly noticeably or dangerously out of balance. But if you're concerned about the flywheel being out of balance with the trigger screw, pin or small magnet installed, it can be dynamically precision spin-balanced, or weighed on a precision scale, and the exact weight of the installed trigger screw or magnet w/screw can be ground away or drilled out on the opposite side of the flywheel to put it back in balance. A steel dowel pin or knurled steel pin could be used instead of a screw or spiral pin, but because of exerted centrifugal force, the screw would be more secure due to its thread retention. And for the ignition timing to be set at 20º BTDC, with the S and raised boss (timing marks) on the bearing plate aligned, the screw will need to be located at 2-3/8" when using a magnetic pickup coil, and 3-1/2" to 4" when using a proximity sensor. This setup can be adapted to a Kohler engine with the flywheel that has the starter/generator and gear starter alike. Or it can be applied to an engine with a steel flywheel for competition pulling. And the mounting holes in the angled bracket for the magnetic pickup coil can be elongated for precise adjustment/setting of the timing. If there's already a projection (hump) on the flywheel, then there's no need to modify the flywheel for this conversion or upgrade. If they're not already present, new 10-24 UNC threads will need to be drilled and tapped in the two raised bosses in the bearing plate to mount the bracket for the sensor's bracket. An original, ingenious, thoroughly researched and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this for use on a small engine. Please accept no other advertised copycat products of this kind.


Crank Trigger Ignition Kit for Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321 and K341 with a small (8") flywheel and starter/generator. This simple and reliable ignition system kit produces a very strong spark, and the ignition timing will always be set at 20º BTDC, or wherever you set it. This system can be used on lawn and garden or stock competition pulling engines, with a cast iron or [8"] steel flywheel. Kit includes a non-magnetic PerTronix Ignitor sensor/module, aluminum channel spacer w/drilled holes and mounting screws, small neodymium/rare earth ring magnet, rubber cushioning washer and hardened mounting screw. The Ignitor must be used with a minimum 3.0 ohm coil or it may burn up. And being metal core spark plug wires do not suppress electro magnetic interference (EMI) which will interfere with the electronics in the PerTronix Ignitor, if the engine runs erratic or misfires, then a suppression/carbon core spark plug wire should be used instead. NOTE: Neodymium and rare earth magnets are the strongest available. Five times stronger than ceramic (ferrite) magnets for stronger detection. So be extra careful when handling neodymium/rare earth magnets. They are very brittle and can break when snapped onto something or when the screw is overtightened. $75.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.

Directions to install this kit...

  1. Align or center the S timing mark on the flywheel with the timing site hole in the bearing plate, and draw a line on the edge of and lengthways with the flywheel at the 10:30 position.
  2. Draw another line 1" from the bearing plate crossways with the line on the flywheel. The magnet will install where the two lines intersect. This spot will allow the magnet to clear the flywheel shroud mounting boss on the bearing plate at the 4:30 position.
  3. Drill and tap 6-32 UNF threads in the flywheel and install the magnet with the supplied cushioning washer and screw where the two drawn lines intersect. IMPORTANT: Install the cushioning washer between the magnet and flywheel, and secure the screw with high strength liquid threadlocker (Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent). And install the ring magnet with the depression facing the flywheel. The ignition will not work otherwise.
  4. Thoroughly clean the bearing plate, and with the S mark on the flywheel aligned or centered with the timing site hole in the bearing plate, center the Ignitor with the magnet, allow .010"-.060" clearance, mark on the bearing plate and drill and tap 6-32 UNC threads in the bearing plate to mount the Ignitor and spacer. Be sure to apply dielectric grease between the Ignitor and aluminum spacer to help cool the module, and securely fasten the Ignitor/block to the bearing plate with the supplied 6-32 UNC screws and split lock washers. Do not allow the module to make contact with the magnet/screw while engine is running!
  5. Drill a 1/4" or 3/8" hole through the bearing plate behind the Ignitor and route the wires from the Ignitor to the ignition coil. Wallow out the drilled hole or use a rubber grommet to prevent the insulation on the wires from rubbing and possibly being shorted, or apply RTV silicone sealant in the hole to hold the wires rigid.
  6. Disconnect and do away with the wires to the points and condenser. Connect the BLACK wire on the Ignitor to the negative (–) terminal on the ignition coil, and connect the RED wire on the Ignitor to the positive (+) terminal on the ignition coil and to the ignition switch (battery positive (+) post). IMPORTANT: If the wires are connected in reverse, the Ignitor will burn up instantly when power is supplied!
  7. Spark plug should be gapped at .035". Turn on the ignition switch, rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand or crank the engine with the starter/generator, and observe for a strong, blue spark at the spark plug's tip. An original, ingenious, thoroughly researched and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this for use on a small engine. Please accept no other advertised copycat products of this kind. Click here to print out these installation instructions.


Crank Trigger Ignition Kits (Below) for Converting from Breakerless Ignition or Points/Condenser Ignition to Crank Trigger Ignition for Kohler engine models K241, K301 or K321. (K341 and K361 engines originally did not come with Breakerless Ignition.) Do away with the old fashioned points and condenser ignition, or defective and cost-prohibitive Breakerless Ignition components, and convert your engine to the reliability, dependability and durability of crank trigger ignition. NOTE: These crank trigger ignition parts do not install on the PTO end of the crankshaft and engine block. Instead, they install next to the flywheel on the OEM bearing plate. To replace the points/condenser with crank trigger, engine can have the small bearing plate with two drilled holes to install the triggering device and 8" flywheel with a small screw/bolt (for magnetic pickup coil or inductive proximity sensor) or a small ring magnet (for the non-magnetic PerTronix Ignitor sensor/module installed on edge of flywheel in a specific place for timing purposes and to trigger the ignition, OR engine can have the large bearing plate with two mounting bosses to install the triggering device and 9" flywheel with 3/4" wide area with the OEM projection (hump) or small screw/bolt (for magnetic pickup coil), or small ring magnet (for non-magnetic PerTronix Ignitor sensor/module installed on edge of flywheel in a specific place for timing purposes and to trigger the ignition. Must use a universal battery ignition key switch, or an OFF/ON toggle- or key-switch (for ignition) and push-button starter switches for either ignition system listed below Ê. NOTE: No need to remove the brass welch plug from points pushrod hole. Ignition timing will be set at 20º BTDC with kit, and reuse same type of spark plug, but set gap at .035". An original, ingenious, thoroughly researched and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this for use on a small engine. Please accept no other advertised copycat products of this kind. IMPORTANT: The wire that comes from the stator under the flywheel for Kohler Trigger Module or Tecumseh Solid State Ignition Module generates about 250 volts while the engine is running at full governored speed (serious). Do not touch this wire (terminal) with one bare hand and the engine itself with your other hand while the engine is running! It is not needed any of my crank trigger ignition systems. So snip off this wire or tape up the terminal to prevent a short circuit or electrocution.

  • Crank Trigger Ignition Kit to Convert from Breakerless Ignition. Includes: New cube-shaped high-output 3-wire inductive proximity sensor w/mounting plate and hardware, new OEM/ordinary GM HEI electronic ignition control module, new 3.0 ohm ignition coil w/mounting bracket, and new 13" suppression/carbon core spark plug wire.
    • $91.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Crank Trigger Ignition Kit to Convert from Breakerless Ignition. Includes: New 3/8" x 1" magnetic pickup coil w/mounting bracket and hardware, new high-output/performance low saturation GM HEI module, new 1.0 ohm (6 volt) canister ignition coil w/mounting bracket, and new 13" metal core spark plug wire.
    • $151.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Crank Trigger Ignition Kit to Convert from Breakerless Ignition. Includes: New 3/8" x 1" magnetic pickup coil w/mounting bracket and hardware, new Chrysler electronic ignition control module/unit w/ballast resistor, new standard-output (20,000 volt) canister ignition coil with 1.5 ohm internal primary resistor and mounting bracket, and new 13" suppression/carbon core spark plug wire.
    • $146.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Crank Trigger Ignition Kit to Convert from Breakerless Ignition. Includes: New 3/8" x 1" magnetic pickup coil w/mounting bracket and hardware, new Ford electronic ignition control module/unit, new standard-output (20,000 volt) canister ignition coil with 1.5 ohm internal primary resistor and mounting bracket, and new 13" suppression/carbon core spark plug wire.
    • $146.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.


Points Pushrod/Plunger Hole Plugs and Block-Off Plate. Use either of the items below Ê to plug or block-off the points pushrod/plunger hole in Briggs & Stratton or Kohler engines when doing away with the points and condenser/capacitor, and converting engine for use with a Universal Solid State Ignition Module, crank trigger electronic ignition or from Kohler K-series ignition to Kohler Magnum solid state ignition. Use needle-nose pliers to hold the plug and a small hammer to tap it in the hole in the block. Fits very tight. For the block-off plate, use RTV silicone sealant to prevent oil leaking and OEM points mounting screws to secure in place. Cup plug no longer available from Kohler (25 139 51-S). NOTE: Instead of using any of these items, remove the points and points pushrod. Place the pushrod on a flat, hard surface, and use a sharp cold chisel and hammer to lightly create some knurled raised places on it. Then insert the pushrod in the block and it may need to driven in with the hammer. The knurled places will retain the pushrod in the block. An original, ingenious, thoroughly researched and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise these for use on a Kohler engine. Please accept no other advertised copycat products of this kind..

  • 3/16" Plug. Fits all single cylinder Kohler K-series and K482, K532 and K582 opposed twin cylinder engines. OEM Briggs & Stratton part # 692882. $6.00 each, plus shipping and handling.
  • 17/64" Plug. Fits Briggs & Stratton opposed twin cylinder engines, and can be used for Kohler opposed twin cylinder engine models KT17, KT17 series 2, KT19 and KT19 series 2 with points pushrod hole drilled-out (enlarged) to 17/64" (.2656") diameter x .3/8" deep for this plug to fit snug. OEM Briggs & Stratton part # 231262. $8.00 each, plus shipping and handling.
  • Block-Off Plate. Made of 1/8" steel. A-1 Miller part. $4.00 each, plus shipping and handling. Return to previous page or paragraph.


NOW AVAILABLE! (Updated 6/9/17) Several specifically designed kits to convert a cast iron block Tecumseh engine model VH80, VH100, HH80, HH100, HH120, OH140, OH150, OH160 or OH180 that originally came with an OEM solid state ignition module to reliable crank trigger ignition. Convert engine to crank trigger ignition when OEM module fail to produce a spark. Ignition timing is preset, but air gap/clearance between sensor and short firing pin needs to be set at .010"-.020" clearance.


Crank Trigger Ignition Kit designed for Tecumseh engine models VH80, VH100, HH80, HH100, HH120, OH140, OH150, OH160 and OH180. Mounts in place of OEM solid state ignition module. With 15/32" (12mm) diameter normally open inductive proximity sensor, nylon zip tie to secure wires to body of proximity sensor, angle aluminum mounting bracket w/two 1/4-20 UNC x 1/2" long Phillips head screws and lock washers, Ford electronic ignition control module/unit w/mounting screws and ignition coil w/1.5 ohm internal primary resistor and mounting bracket, and 13" suppression/carbon core spark plug wire. Click here for wiring diagrams. IMPORTANT: The wire that comes from the stator under the flywheel for Kohler Trigger Module or Tecumseh Solid State Ignition Module generates about 250 volts while the engine is running at full governored speed (serious). Do not touch this wire (terminal) with one bare hand and the engine itself with your other hand while the engine is running! It is not needed for any of my crank trigger ignition systems. So snip off this wire or tape up the terminal to prevent a short circuit or electrocution.

  • $80.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.

Crank Trigger Ignition Kit designed for Tecumseh engine models VH80, VH100, HH80, HH100, HH120, OH140, OH150, OH160 and OH180. Mounts in place of OEM solid state ignition module. With 15/32" (12mm) diameter normally open inductive proximity sensor, nylon zip tie to secure wires to body of proximity sensor, angle aluminum mounting bracket w/two 1/4-20 UNC x 1/2" long Phillips head screws and lock washers, Chrysler electronic ignition control module/unit w/ballast resistor and four female plug-in wire crimp connectors, and ignition coil w/1.5 ohm internal primary resistor and mounting bracket, and 13" suppression/carbon core spark plug wire. Click here for wiring diagrams. IMPORTANT: The wire that comes from the stator under the flywheel for Kohler Trigger Module or Tecumseh Solid State Ignition Module generates about 250 volts while the engine is running at full governored speed (serious). Do not touch this wire (terminal) with one bare hand and the engine itself with your other hand while the engine is running! It is not needed for any of my crank trigger ignition systems. So snip off this wire or tape up the terminal to prevent a short circuit or electrocution.

  • $96.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.

Crank Trigger Ignition Kit designed for Tecumseh engine models VH80, VH100, HH80, HH100, HH120, OH140, OH150, OH160 and OH180. Mounts in place of OEM solid state ignition module. With 3/8" diameter magnetic pickup coil, angle aluminum mounting bracket w/two 1/4-20 UNC x 1/2" long Phillips head screws and lock washers, Chrysler electronic ignition control module/unit w/ballast resistor and four female plug-in wire crimp connectors, and ignition coil w/1.5 ohm internal primary resistor and mounting bracket, suppression/carbon core spark plug wire, and nylon zip tie to secure wires to body of pickup coil, , and 13" suppression/carbon core spark plug wire. Click here for wiring diagrams. IMPORTANT: The wire that comes from the stator under the flywheel for Kohler Trigger Module or Tecumseh Solid State Ignition Module generates about 250 volts while the engine is running at full governored speed (serious). Do not touch this wire (terminal) with one bare hand and the engine itself with your other hand while the engine is running! It is not needed for any of my crank trigger ignition systems. So snip off this wire or tape up the terminal to prevent a short circuit or electrocution.

  • $116.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.


Crank Trigger Electronic Ignition Kits with GM HEI 4-Pin Electronic Ignition Control Module and Magnetic Pickup Coil or Cube-Shaped High-Output 3-Wire Inductive Proximity Sensor. Now the ordinary/stock GM HEI electronic ignition control module lives up to its name, High Energy Ignition! Designed for Tecumseh engine models VH80, VH100, HH80, HH100, HH120, OH140, OH150, OH160 and OH180. Either ignition kit mounts in place of OEM solid state ignition module, and requires 12 volts of power. Each kit includes: New GM HEI electronic ignition control module, new cube-shaped, high-output inductive proximity sensor or magnetic pickup coil, fastened to aluminum mounting plate, black and red wires to connect to coil, new 1.0 or 1.5 ohm canister-type ignition coil w/mounting bracket (mounts on outside of engine), new 13" suppression/carbon core or metal core spark plug wire and copper core spark plug (Autolite 295 or Champion J8C). Proximity sensor or magnetic pickup coil will be prewired to module. Installation: Set air gap/clearance at .015", connect the Black wire (C terminal on module) to the negative (–) terminal on the ignition coil, and the Red wire (B terminal on module) to the positive (+) terminal on the ignition coil and ignition switch. Click here for wiring diagram. IMPORTANT: The wire that comes from the stator under the flywheel for Kohler Trigger Module or Tecumseh Solid State Ignition Module generates about 250 volts while the engine is running at full governored speed (serious). Do not touch this wire (terminal) with one bare hand and the engine itself with your other hand while the engine is running! It is not needed for any of my crank trigger ignition systems. So snip off this wire or tape up the terminal to prevent a short circuit or electrocution.

  • Kit with high-output/performance low saturation GM HEI electronic ignition control module and magnetic pickup coil. (Picture coming soon.) $125.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Kit with ordinary/stock GM HEI electronic ignition control module and cube-shaped, high-output inductive proximity sensor. $100.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.

(8/8/17) Self-contained crank trigger electronic ignition kit designed for Tecumseh engine models VH80, VH100, HH80, HH100, HH120, OH140, OH150, OH160 and OH180. Ignition kit will mount in place of OEM Tecumseh solid state ignition module, and requires 12 volts of power. Kit will include a high-output/performance low saturation GM HEI 4-pin electronic ignition control module, magnetic pickup coil and 30,000 volt ignition coil all fastened onto an aluminum mounting plate. No external coil will be required! Please check back soon for an update and pictures!


Crank Trigger Ignition Kits designed for Tecumseh engine models VH80, VH100, HH80, HH100, HH120, OH140, OH150, OH160 and OH180. Mounts in place of OEM Tecumseh solid state ignition module. An original, ingenious, thoroughly researched and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this for use on a small engine. Please accept no other advertised copycat products of this kind. IMPORTANT: The wire that comes from the stator under the flywheel for Kohler Trigger Module or Tecumseh Solid State Ignition Module generates about 250 volts while the engine is running at full governored speed (serious). Do not touch this wire (terminal) with one bare hand and the engine itself with your other hand while the engine is running! It is not needed for any of my crank trigger ignition systems. So snip off this wire or tape up the terminal to prevent a short circuit or electrocution.

  • Kit with non-magnetic PerTronix Ignitor sensor/module. Detects small magnet in flywheel; drive long OEM pin flush with surface of flywheel with brass hammer, and replace the short OEM pin with supplied magnet. Install magnet about 3/16" above the surface of the flywheel. Kit includes: non-magnetic PerTronix Ignitor sensor/module fastened to aluminum mounting plate, two 1/4-20 UNC x 1/2" long Phillips head screws w/lock washers, small neodymium/rare earth magnet, ignition coil w/3.0 ohm internal primary resistor w/mounting bracket, suppression/carbon core spark plug wire, and nylon zip tie to secure module wires to mounting plate. $106.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Kit with magnetic PerTronix Ignitor sensor/module. Detects OEM short steel pin in flywheel; drive long OEM pin flush with surface of flywheel with brass hammer. Includes: magnetic PerTronix Ignitor sensor/module fastened to aluminum mounting plate, two 1/4-20 UNC x 1/2" long Phillips head screws w/lock washers, ignition coil w/3.0 ohm internal primary resistor and mounting bracket, suppression/carbon core spark plug wire, and nylon zip tie to secure module wires to mounting plate. $146.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.

Inductive and Hall Effect Proximity Sensors | Magnetic Pickup Coils

IMPORTANT! Magnetic pickup coils and proximity sensors are very sensitive to mechanical damage (and electrical damage if connected wrong). For magnetic pickup coils, set the air gap/clearance from the detection/trigger target (screw, pin or small raised area on the rotating disc) at .010" - .060" with a brass, plastic, poster board, stainless steel (anything non-magnetic) feeler gauge. And being inductive proximity sensors have a farther detection distance, set the air gap/clearance at .010" - .188". If the gap is wider than specified with either sensor, the engine could misfire at higher RPM. Direct metal contact with either sensor could damage them. When in doubt if a sensor is mechanically damaged, look at the end of it with the strong magnifying glass to see any damage. If it is damaged, it needs to be replaced. A magnetic pickup coil can be tested with a digital multimeter set on 200m DC, with the negative lead of the meter on the white wire of the pickup coil and positive lead on the black wire, then pass a small steel screw or bolt over the end of the magnetic pickup coil. If the meter shows a reading, the pickup coil is in good condition.

Normally Open Inductive Proximity Sensor for crank trigger ignition. Recommended for use with the Chrysler and Ford electronic ignition control module/units. Detects head of small ferrous metal (steel) screw or bolt fastened to rotating disc or flywheel to generate power in sensor. Install screw head extended minimum 1/4" higher than the surface of the flywheel to prevent any out of time spark occurrences by the flywheel itself. Spark will occur when aligned with head of steel screw (Kohler. etc.) or pin (Tecumseh) in rotating disc or flywheel. Wide operating temperature range. Epoxy encapsulated, mechanically rugged. Impervious to dirt, oil and water. No maintenance required. Sensor is capable of powering crank trigger ignition and digital tachometer at the same time. Durable metal shielded threads with two stainless steel thin jam nuts and three, 10 foot long wire leads. Dimensions of each item below: 15/32" (12mm) diameter x 1-3/8" thread length. Some proximity sensors have an LED (Light Emitting Diode) on the rear of unit. If the proximity sensor is wired incorrectly, the LED will stay on and go off when activated. Being inductive proximity sensors have a farther detection distance, set the air gap/clearance at .010" - .188". Direct metal contact with either sensor will damage them. And if the gap is wider than specified, the engine could misfire at higher RPM. Click here for wiring diagrams.


Magnetic Pickup Coils for crank trigger ignition. All magnetic pickup coils are normally open. Detects head of small ferrous metal (steel) screw or bolt fastened to rotating disc or flywheel to generate power in magnetic pickup coil. Install screw head extended minimum 1/4" higher than the surface of the flywheel to prevent any out of time spark occurrences by the flywheel itself. Wide operating temperature range. Epoxy encapsulated, mechanically rugged. Impervious to dirt, oil and water. No maintenance required. Self-generating power. Durable metal shielded threads with two jam nuts. Please specify size when ordering. Can be used with a steel bracket without interference of magnetism. By the way - The 3/8" magnetic pickup coil works exactly the same as the 5/8" ones. There is absolutely no difference in performance. The 3/8" one can be used where space is limited, and the 5/8" one can be used where space is no problem. Set the air gap/clearance from the detection/trigger target (screw, pin or small raised area on the rotating disc) at .010" - .020" with a brass, plastic, poster board or anything non-magnetic feeler gauge. Click here for wiring diagrams.

  • 3/8" diameter x 1" thread length housing, w/two, 7-1/2" length wire leads. Can be used with the high-output/performance low saturation GM HEI module w/1.0 ohm coil, or with the Chrysler or Ford electronic ignition control module/units. $60.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 3/8" diameter x 2-3/16" thread length housing, w/two, 7-1/2" length wire leads. Can be used with the high-output/performance low saturation GM HEI module w/1.0 ohm coil, or with the Chrysler or Ford electronic ignition control module/units. $60.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 5/8" diameter x 2-1/8" thread length housing, w/two, 10 foot long wire leads. Recommended for use with the Chrysler or Ford electronic ignition control module/units. $50.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Return to previous paragraph or website.


3/8" Magnetic Pickup Coil w/Mounting Bracket to Convert from Breakerless Ignition or Points and Condenser and Upgrade to Crank Trigger Electronic Ignition. Fits Kohler K-series K241-K361 engines with the 9" ring gear flywheel w/projection (hump) on flywheel or 3/4" wide area (to install trigger screw) and large bearing plate with the two bosses for mounting this item, as pictured above. Includes two 10-24 UNC Allen socket head mounting screws and split lock washers. If they're not already present, new 10-24 UNC threads will need to be drilled and tapped in the two raised bosses in the bearing plate to mount the bracket for the sensor's bracket. NOTE: Set air gap/clearance from projection (hump) on flywheel at .010"-.060" with a brass, plastic, poster board or anything non-magnetic feeler gauge. Ignition timing will be fixed at 20º BTDC. Click here for wiring diagrams. An original, ingenious, thoroughly researched and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this for use on a small engine. Please accept no other advertised copycat products of this kind.

  • $90.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Crank Trigger Ignition Detector/Trigger Target Screws for crank trigger ignition. Install on the edge of an aluminum or steel locking ring, disc or flywheel when using a magnetic pickup coil or inductive proximity sensor. The curvature or dome shaped heads of button- and Phillips-head screws makes them ideal for use as a detector/trigger target on a trigger disc or flywheel. Secure in place with a split lock washer and/or high strength liquid threadlocker (Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent). An original, ingenious, thoroughly researched and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this for use on a small engine. Please accept no other advertised copycat products of this kind.
  • Hardened Steel Phillips Head Screw. 10-32 UNF x 3/8" length. .30¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Button Head Socket Head (Allen) Screw. 10-32 UNF x 3/8" length x 3/8" head diameter. .50¢ each, plus shipping & handling.


Crank Trigger Ignition Detector/Trigger Target Neodymium/Rare Earth Ring Magnet, Rubber Cushioning Washer and Hardened Steel Retaining Screw for crank trigger ignition. Fasten magnet w/screw on the edge of aluminum or steel disc, or flywheel when using a non-magnetic pickup coil, hall effect proximity sensor or non-magnetic PerTronix Ignitor sensor/module. Head of screw will become magnetized. NOTE: Neodymium and rare earth magnets are the strongest available. Five times stronger than ceramic (ferrite) magnets for stronger detection. Be extra careful when handling neodymium/rare earth magnets. They are very brittle and can break when snapped onto something or when the screw is tightened too much. Install the cushioning washer between the magnet and flywheel, and secure the screw with high strength liquid threadlocker (Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent). Dimensions of magnet: 15mm diameter x 5mm center hole x 4mm height. Screw size: 8-32 UNF x 1/2" length. An original, ingenious, thoroughly researched and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this for use on a small engine. Please accept no other advertised copycat products of this kind.

  • $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
New High Quality, GM HEI 4-Pin Electronic Ignition Control Modules for crank trigger ignition. Small and compact. Operates with full 12 volts.

Now the OEM/ordinary GM HEI electronic ignition control module lives up to its name, High Energy Ignition! When used on a small engine, in order for an OEM/ordinary HEI module allow the engine to accelerate at full speed, it must be used with the cube-shaped high-output 3-wire inductive proximity sensor, and can be used with virtually any ignition coil, regardless of the ohms resistance or voltage output, even with a suppression/carbon core spark plug wire and resistor spark plug gapped at .035". Sensor is also capable of powering an HEI crank trigger ignition and a digital tachometer at the same time. This concept revolutionizes the use of this small, compact and versatile module! This is a thoroughly tested, researched and proven reliable ignition system by Brian Miller for ordinary lawn and garden engines and competition pulling engines. And when mounting the GM HEI module, always fasten it with dielectric grease on a clean, flat aluminum plate with plenty of fresh air circulation to dissipate the heat while in operation. Click here for wiring diagrams. Return to previous section. IMPORTANT: The wire that comes from the stator under the flywheel for Kohler Trigger Module or Tecumseh Solid State Ignition Module generates about 250 volts while the engine is running at full governored speed (serious). Do not touch this wire (terminal) with one bare hand and the engine itself with your other hand while the engine is running! It is not needed for any of my crank trigger ignition systems. So snip off this wire or tape up the terminal to prevent a short circuit or electrocution.

  • Ordinary/Stock GM HEI module. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Cube-Shaped High-Output 3-Wire Inductive Proximity Sensor Without Mounting Block and Screws. (Customer fabricates own mounting block or adapter.) $20.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Cube-Shaped High-Output 3-Wire Inductive Proximity Sensor With Mounting Block and Screws. $45.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


The high-output/performance low saturation GM HEI electronic ignition control module connected to a magnetic pickup coil works excellent with an ignition coil that have a 1.0 ohm internal primary resistor. A metal core spark plug wire and non-resistor/copper core spark plug gapped at .025" should also be used for a strong spark so the engine will accelerate at full speed. And install the GM HEI module away from exhaust heat on a clean, flat aluminum surface with thermal compound heat sink grease (included) to help transfer heat and cool the unit while in operation.

  • High-output/performance low saturation GM HEI module. $30.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
New High Quality Chrysler / Dodge / Plymouth Electronic Ignition Control Module/Unit for crank trigger ignition. Requires a minimum 1.2 ohm ballast resistor to prevent burning up module. Click here to learn how to check/test the resistor in a coil or ballast resistor. This module can be used with the magnetic pickup coil or proximity sensor and virtually any ignition coil, regardless of the ohms resistance or voltage output, and will allow the engine to idle smoothly and accelerate quickly to full speed (wide open throttle) with no hesitation or misfire. Click here for wiring diagrams.
  • $25.00 each, plus shipping and handling.

New 1.6 ohm Ballast Resistor for use with Chrysler module (above È) to prevent burning up module, or ballast resistor can be used with a 12 volt ignition coil with low ohm internal primary resistor to prevent excessive burning of point contacts.

  • $8.00 each, plus shipping and handling.
New High Quality Ford / Mercury / Lincoln Electronic Ignition Control Module/Unit for crank trigger ignition. Operates with full 12 volts. Requires no ballast resistor. This module can be used with the magnetic pickup coil or proximity sensor and virtually any ignition coil, regardless of the ohms resistance or voltage output, and will allow the engine to idle smoothly and accelerate quickly to full speed (wide open throttle) with no hesitation or misfire. Click here for wiring diagrams.
  • $25.00 each, plus shipping and handling.
High Quality Inductive Wireless Handheld Small Engine Tachometer. For gas/spark ignite engines only. Very accurate. This handheld analog tachometer works great for checking/setting the RPM on various small engines in the shop, and/or for checking/setting the RPM [tech] on stock governored engines at pulling events, ATVs/UTVS, etc. Hold sensor (antenna) close to spark plug wire for reading. Operates off a self-contained replaceable 9 volt battery. Has built-in battery voltage check. Reads up to 5,000 RPM on the low scale, and 15,000 RPM on the high scale.
  • $85.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Inductive Digital Small Engine Tachometer and Hour Meter. High quality and very accurate. Large 3/8 inch LCD display. Works with all spark ignition engines by selecting engine type using S1 and S2 buttons. Instructions included. Tachometer reads up to 99,999 RPM. Hour meter reads up to 9999:59 hours/minutes then resets to Zero. Programmable maintenance hour setting with service icon, a reminder when to change oil or other service. Can be manually reset to Zero hours. Programmable maintenance hour setting with service icon, a reminder when to change oil or other service. Easy installation: Single wire wraps around spark plug wire and secured with two supplied nylon zip-ties. No wire terminal connections required. Tachometer can be surface-mounted and secured with two screws. Has built-in battery rated up to 4 years. Sealed unit; weather and water resistant. Dimensions: 2" wide x 1-3/4" depth x 3/4" height.
  • $20.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Digital Tachometer/Proximity Sensor Kits. Will work with small engines or automotive engines, gas or diesel. This precision digital tachometer is triggered by the same method as crank trigger ignition with a proximity sensor to detect a target, which can be a small ferrous steel screw or pin, or magnet in a rotating disc or on/in flywheel. A sturdy steel or aluminum bracket will need to be fabricated by customer to mount the sensor in close proximity of the detector/trigger target. Set air gap/clearance at .010"-.188". Tachometer can be dash- or panel-mounted. Tachometer works with 8-24 volts DC, proximity sensors works with 6-36 volts DC. Dimensions of each proximity sensor below: 15/32" (12mm) diameter x 1-3/8" thread length. Some proximity sensors have an LED (Light Emitting Diode) on the rear of unit. If the proximity sensor is wired incorrectly, the LED will stay on and go off when activated. Displays up to 9,999 RPM. Very accurate. Tachometer returns to zero [0000] when power is turned off. Wiring Instructions: #1 wire on tachometer connects to brown wire on (either) proximity sensor and ignition switch (battery positive (+) post), #2 wire on tachometer connects to blue wire on (either) proximity sensor and engine/chassis ground (battery negative (–) post), and #5 wire on tachometer connects to black wire on (either) proximity sensor. Wires #3 and #4 connects to nothing. Wiring can also be integrated with crank trigger ignition with a proximity sensor. Choice of RED or BLUE numeric display.
  • Tachometer only. To be used with a 3-wire hall effect, inductive or cube-shaped proximity sensor. $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Complete Tachometer Kit with Hall Effect Proximity Sensor. $22.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Complete Tachometer Kit with Inductive Proximity Sensor. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Return to previous section.


Using a GM HEI (High Energy Ignition) 4-Pin Module Ignition Distributor on Older Automotive, Farm-Use, etc., Engines (Hybrid Ignition System) - Top of page.

Chevy HEI DistributorIf you have an automotive-type gas engine in an old car, truck, farm tractor, forklift, construction equipment, boat motor, etc., with a worn out or troublesome point ignition distributor, and/or parts are no longer available or if you want to upgrade it to the modern, higher output, trouble- and maintenance-free electronic ignition system, then all the engine will need is a battery-powered, non-computer controlled GM HEI distributor (with the 4-pin electronic ignition control module) and spark plug wires from a 1975-84 General Motors vehicle (Chevrolet, Pontiac, Oldsmobile, Buick, Cadillac or GMC truck) with an L4, L6, V6 or V8 engine. These type of distributors are considered high performance because they produce a very strong spark (about 40,000 volts to the spark plugs) for quicker starts, smooth idling and more engine power, and is ideal for use in other makes of engines because the ignition parts are self-contained; the coil is located in the distributor cap and the electronic ignition control module is located in the distributor itself. And there's only one 12 volt wire to power the GM HEI distributor. A Chevy V8 HEI distributor is shown to the right. The 4 and 6 cylinder engine distributors are similar. And to get even a stronger spark to the spark plugs, install an MSD Low Resistance Bushing 8412. This part installs in the center of the distributor cap, underneath the coil.

If there's not enough space or clearance on an engine for the GM HEI distributor, a smaller diameter non-computer controlled electronic ignition distributor from a Ford, Mercury or Lincoln, or Chrysler, Plymouth or Dodge (MOPAR) vehicle can be used instead. The Ford or MOPAR electronic ignition control module and ignition coil will need to be mounted elsewhere on the vehicle or equipment, such as on the firewall or inner fender well. And the spark plug wires that's designed for these distributors will also be needed. These type of distributors and ignition systems are also considered high performance because they produce a very strong spark.

How To Convert It:

  1. Cut off the upper half of the old distributor housing and shaft (discard the upper half). Be sure to cut it close to the distributor head.
  2. Cut off the lower half of the GM HEI, Ford or MOPAR distributor housing and shaft (discard the lower half). Be sure to cut it far from the distributor head.
  3. Machine and adapt the shafts and housings of the lower part of the old distributor onto the upper half of the modern distributor head, and pin the two shafts together (like for shortened automotive axles). Scroll down for information on how to securely pin two shafts together.
  4. Connect just one 12 volt wire from the ignition switch to the GM HEI distributor. And for the Ford or MOPAR ignition systems, connect the wiring as shown above È in this website for the electronic ignition control module and ignition coil.
  5. The firing order and ignition timing are set the same as for the old distributor/engine.
  6. It'll probably be a lot of work setting it all up, but it'll be worth it in the long run.

How To Securely "Pin" Two Shafts Together:

  1. Carefully measure each shaft to the length they need to be, then cut each in half.
  2. In a small metal lathe (with a self-centering 3-jaw chuck), in one of the shafts, bore a hole .625" (5/8") deep in the end of the shaft that needs to be joined to the other shaft. The diameter of the hole is to be determined by the outside diameter of the shaft.
  3. In the lathe, and on the other shaft, turn down a stub that's in .750" (3/4") in length. Be sure to machine the stub .003" larger so it'll be a press fit for the shaft with the hole. Bevel the stub so it'll press in straight and easy.
  4. Using a hydraulic press, carefully press the two shafts together, leaving an 1/8" gap for a bead of weld. But first align the shafts so the rotor cap will point to the # 1 cylinder on the distributor cap when the distributor is installed in the engine.
  5. Thoroughly weld the two shafts together, and grind away any lumps of weld so the shaft will slide in the distributor housing(s) (that have been joined together also) with no problems.


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A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends (except Holidays). Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival. Fax: 1-573-449-7347. E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can always make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally drop off and/or pick up your engine, transaxle, tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long."

To place an order, please call the number below Ê or send an email with your name, complete and correct postal address and phone number and so I can figure the total with shipping cost and USPS Tracking. For payment options for parts ordered or services performed, or to make a donation to my websites, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge), Western Union Money Transfer, MoneyGram Money Transfers or Popmoney. (If a part for a specific purpose is high-output ordered, your debit/credit card may be charged for the full amount or as a deposit right after your order is placed; please do not send your debit/credit card information in email!) Or you can pay me through PayPal. (My PayPal account name is my email address. And be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment is for.) If sending a money order, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone number and a description of what the payment is for. My mailing address and phone number are below Ê . I'll make a note of your order, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send the parts to you as soon as I have everything in stock after I receive your payment.

IMPORTANT - When sending your part(s) to me for rebuilding or repair, package everything securely so the item(s) won't get damaged in shipping and please include a note in the box with your name, mailing address, phone number (in case I have any questions) and a description of what you want done. When shipping heavy parts, it's best to put a slightly smaller box inside a larger box, to double the strength and integrity of the package. Because the clumsy "gorillas" or incompetent and uncaring workers that work for certain delivery services mishandle the heavy packages and don't care. And when the work is completed, I'll either call or email you an invoice with the total including shipping and handling.

To figure the shipping cost, I weigh the package with the parts, then I go online to the USPS Postage Rate Calculator website. I type in the weight, my zip code and your zip code, then it shows me the prices for various ways to ship the package. I always choose US Postal Service because I believe that's the most fastest, economical and reliable method.

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To save you shipping charges, item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 13 oz. is sent by First Class Mail for a 2-6 day delivery. Most packaged item(s) weighing over 13 oz. is sent by US Priority Mail for a 2-3 day delivery. To save you even more on shipping heavy items, I always try to use the US Postal Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelope and boxes (if the item(s) can fit inside the envelope or boxes). Some heavy items weighing no more than 70 lbs. is sent by US Mail Parcel Post. Item(s) weighing over 70 lbs. is sent by FedEx Ground. Again, if you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can always make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally drop off and/or pick up your engine, transaxle, tractor, etc.

Ship to Canada and Worldwide þüý -
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S. territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground or equivalent services.


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