Unsportsmanshiplike Conduct.
There's a cheater in every sport, and competition tractor
pulling is no different. Honest pullers who ignore the cheater(s) are fools.
And when there's prize money involved, a fool and their money are soon parted.
Anyway, to make competition pulling a fun and fair sport for the entire family,
be protective of your equipment! While at the pulls, keep an eye on your
killswitch plug! When a competitive or winning pulling tractor is left
unattended, it's been known that certain disgruntled pullers
(sore losers 
) belonging
to various associations/clubs, virtually anywhere and everywhere, will pull
a competitor's killswitch plug and toss it out of sight. This is one of the
easiest, dishonest and sneaky ways to disable and sabotage a competitor's
tractor. All a cheater needs is an opportunity in an attempt to gain an advantage
on the track. This is also the fastest way for a pulling association or club
to gain a bad reputation and lose honest pullers. (Bad news travels fast.)
This type of behavior doesn't happen often, but you need to be prepared if
or when it does happen. To be prepared for this unforeseeable extra killswitch
plug with you. This kind of dishonest behavior doesn't happen often, but
you need to be prepared if or when it does happen.
Keep an eye on your
carburetor, too! Always try to stay one step ahead of a cheater. Because
there's cheaters in every sport, and nobody likes a cheater, not even cheaters
themselves! 
But then again, if the
winning tractor is suspected of cheating on the track (illegal fuel, engine,
weight, etc.), there's always the protest rule. But only if it's enforced
by the pulling association. Remember - cheating is devious theft with a sly
smirk. Heck, some pulling associations/clubs vote-in and/or change certain
rules in a meeting during the off-season, lock them in for several years,
but don't even enforce or follow their own rules during the pulling season!
They change their rules so often, they might as well just write them in pencil!
Another thing I don't understand is when a [prominent] puller of an
association/club ask the president of the club if an illegal part can be
used in his engine for pulling, and the president says, "yeah, sure!" But
the pulling association/club's sanctioning rules, the very same rules that
the members (pullers) of the association/club discussed about and voted-on
in a meeting, clearly states in black and white that such a part cannot be
used.
Safety First! Fabricating a Killswitch -
Top of page
First
of all, in order to kill both the [battery-powered] ignition system and electric
fuel pump, the tractor will need a heavy duty, "connect the wires yourself"
3-prong electrical plug and receptacle. About 4 feet length of minimum 14
gauge 2-wire double-insulated electrical cord will also be needed. Although
ordinary lightweight "lamp cord" will work, double-insulated wire would be
more durable to prevent a short. Connect the wires so both the ignition and
electric fuel pump circuits will be disabled when the plug is pulled from
the receptacle.
Here's how to connect the wires:
-
Inside
the plug, connect the two flat terminals together with a short, bare wire.
This will complete the circuit to power the ignition and electric fuel pump.
Don't run any wires outside the plug. Do not connect any wire to the neutral
terminal on the plug or receptacle. This terminal will help keep the receptacle
from falling out of the receptacle when pulling.
-
Securely fasten a steel loop on the end of the plug. (A medium size
steel key ring works perfect.)
-
Connect one end of the wire that comes from the ignition switch (that connects
to the battery positive (+) post) to one of the [flat] terminals in the
receptacle.
-
For safety, install an
inline fuse holder or circuit breaker close to the ignition
switch in case there's a short in the 2-wire cord. To determine the size
of fuse or circuit breaker, figure how many amps all the connected electrical
accessories draw, then use a fuse or an automatic circuit breaker with an
amp rating slightly higher to prevent the fuse from burning out or the circuit
breaker from overloading and popping. If a short occurs, the fuse will need
to be replaced and the circuit breaker will automatically reset itself. Having
a fuse or circuit breaker (and amp gauge if the engine
has a charging system) installed is very important to prevent failure of
electrical components. By the time you smell something burning or see smoke,
it may be too late.
-
Connect the other end of the [ignition] wire that goes to the positive (+)
coil terminal and electric fuel pump to the other [flat] terminal in the
receptacle.
-
Fabricate a secure bracket to mount the receptacle on the rear of the tractor,
just above the hitch.
-
Route the 2-wire cord in a safe manner along the inside of the tractor frame
so it will not get pinched, chafed or make contact with the engine/chassis
ground. Make sure the cord is routed to prevent it from being wrapped around
the driveshaft, too!
Or for a magneto/solid state
ignition system or battery-powered ignition system, the "grounding" type
of kill switch can be used. This is actually a
breakaway safety/kill switch for an ATV, jet ski, boat
or trailer. When used with magneto or solid state ignition, with the plunger
pulled, it grounds the ignition coil from producing spark. One wire is grounded
to engine/chassis ground and the other wire connects to the wire going to
the points and
condenser/capacitor
or the kill terminal on the ignition coil w/integrated module or a remote
module. But when used with battery ignition, with the nylon pin pulled, this
type of switch do not disconnect power to the ignition coil. Instead, it
grounds the coil negative (–) terminal. One wire is connected to chassis
ground, and the other wire connects to the coil negative (–) terminal.
(Connects to the same wire going to the points and condenser/capacitor or
crank/flywheel trigger electronic ignition module.)
When the nylon pin is pulled out (when pulling), the ignition switch should
be immediately turned off to prevent power from continually going to the
ignition coil, which can eventually burn it up. On the down side, this type
of switch do not disable power to the electric fuel pump on a pulling tractor.
The electric fuel pump must be disabled manually by an OFF/ON switch. This
breakaway safety switch can be purchased off of
eBay for a reasonable price.
Ignition Solutions -
Spark-ignited engines requires a spark to initiate burning of the air-fuel
mixture in the combustion chamber. The spark in each cylinder is provided
by a spark plug and is actually a flow of electrical current through the
air and fuel vapor between the closely spaced electrodes of the spark plug.
The resistance of air is very high. Therefore, a 15,000- to 30,000-volt potential
across the gap is used to fire the plug. Typically, the ignition system must
supply this high voltage from a 12 volt power source, such as a storage battery.
Moreover, the spark must begin at the proper point in the cycle and must
be of sufficient duration.
Whenever a manufacturer wants to sell their latest fancy ignition system,
they run a bench test that shows that their unit puts out more voltage than
the other guy's. If you read enough ads with claims of extremely high available
voltage, you may begin to think that voltage is the only thing necessary
to make an ignition system the best in the world. After all, if ignition
"A" puts out more voltage than ignition "B", the one you would want is "A",
right? Sorry, but that isn't necessarily so. Ignition "A" may put out more
voltage, but is it more mechanically dependable than ignition "B"? Did you
know that 90% of ignition failures are mechanical, and not electrical? Blame
burnt or dirty points, defective condenser/capacitor, defective switch(es),
broken or chaffed wires, loose screws or connectors, slipped timing, worn
hinge pin hole in points, etc. Apply lubricating grease on the hinge pin
before installing points so the hole will last longer. When it's dry, it'll
wear prematurely, effecting ignition timing, resulting in loss of engine
power. By the way - whenever a condenser/capacitor becomes defective or gets
weak, the engine may idle well, but hesitate to accelerate, or if it did
accelerate, it may run very erratic.
Click here to hear what an engine
with a defective condenser/capacitor sounds like. For the record, "condenser"
is an age old term, and "capacitor" is a newer term for the same device.
Ignition capacitors are still commonly called condensers. NOTE: If an
engine idles well, but runs erratically above idle, like it hits and misses,
pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs a new condenser/capacitor.
And always install a condenser/capacitor with the wire or terminal facing
down so rain water and/or when washing off engine, water will not enter inside
condenser/capacitor, ruining it.
Click here to hear what an engine
with a faulty condenser/capacitor sounds like.
The importance of extremely high secondary voltage for more performance have
been somewhat overplayed. An ignition system, regardless of type, produces
only enough voltage necessary to jump the spark plug gap and ignite the air/fuel
mixture. In perfect condition, a good spark plug wire and spark plug with
a gap of .035" can't handle much more than 32,000 volts. If an ignition could
produce more than that, then the extra voltage would escape through a leaking
spark plug wire, a small crack in the ignition coil tower, etc. Besides,
an average engine simply just doesn't need that much voltage. In most cases,
an average engine simply don't need a high-output/performance (40,000 volt)
ignition coil. If a plug require only 10,000 volts to jump its gap, then
a "Super Coil" that's advertised to produce 40,000 volts will produce just
10,000 volts for that same plug under the same conditions. An ignition coil
advertised to produce 40,000 volts may have the potential to do it, but unless
everything is in excellent condition, only a fraction of that voltage would
reach the spark plug.
As a spark plug's electrodes wear, its gap increases, so more voltage is
required from the ignition coil before the spark is able to jump across the
gap. If uncorrected, the gap eventually increases to the point where the
plug requires more voltage than the coil can produce. However, a
high-output/performance ignition coil would probably be able to fire the
worn plug. Did you know that most stock ignition coils will produce enough
voltage to jump a gap of up to 3/4 of an inch? Of course, no spark plug electrode
will ever wear that wide. Therefore, the use of a high-output/performance
ignition coil really isn't necessary, except in extreme high compression,
alcohol-burning engines.
What Exactly is Coil Saturation?
(Added 4/6/17)
Basically speaking, full coil saturation is when the points and condenser
(or two condensers) or electronic ignition control module/unit (ICU) can
deliver more voltage to the coil so it will produce a stronger spark. While
electricity itself moves extremely fast, it takes time for the changing magnetic
fields in a coil to develop the full potential current and voltage. In other
words, electricity moves much faster than magnetism. This is a way of saying
that the induced voltage (stepped up voltage) does not develop instantaneously.
To keep things simple, think of the coil as an energy storage device that
can be "charged up" and "discharged" in a manner similar to a battery. It
takes time for the magnetic field of the secondary windings in the coil to
"charge" to its full potential, a condition that is called coil
saturation. Similarly, it takes time for the coil to discharge some
quantity of its electrical energy as it fires a spark plug. It takes more
voltage from a condenser/capacitor or virtually any electronic ignition control
unit (ICU) through the primary windings within the coil to make the magnetic
field stronger to produce more voltage for the secondary windings to fire
the spark plug(s) at higher RPM. This allows an engine accelerate at higher
RPM. When maximum current flow is present in a winding, a maximum magnetic
field is present and the coil winding is considered saturated. Saturation
of the primary windings only occurs if the ignition primary switching device
provides a ground path long enough to allow maximum current flow (5.5 amps
maximum). If a low capacity condenser/capacitor or standard ICU is used,
insufficient amount of magnetic field will be induced in the secondary winds,
and the engine may idle well, but as it accelerates, due to the higher
compression [as the throttle plate is opened more], the (weak) spark at the
spark plug's tip literally gets "blown out", and the engine fails to accelerate.
Due to coil saturation, certain coils require two standard capacity [Kohler]
condensers/capacitors, or one high capacity/performance condenser/capacitor
to absorb the full saturation (voltage) of the primary windings within the
coil. Go here for more information:
Saturation
(magnetic). Return to previous
paragraph, section or website.
In most cases, if an engine is kept in perfect tune, the factory stock ignition
system provides more than enough voltage for the average garden pulling tractor.
Most conventional stock ignitions are designed to provide a strong spark
up to a relatively low engine speed. With Kohler engines running in modified
form, they will get up as high as 9,000 RPM. But at high RPM or
wide
open throttle with the points system, the points open and close so quickly
that the coil's primary winding has less time to absorb voltage. This means
the condenser/capacitor doesn't have enough time to rebuild the capacitance
discharge. As a result, with the stock system, secondary voltage to the plug
decreases and the engine won't run to full speed (wide open throttle) or
it may sputter just when victory is in sight. However, for most garden pulling
tractors, a stock ignition system that's in good condition will provide plenty
of spark. NOTE: If an engine idles well, but runs erratically above idle,
like it hits and misses, pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs a
new condenser/capacitor. And always install a condenser/capacitor with the
wire or terminal facing down so rain water and/or when washing off engine,
water will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it.
Click here to hear what an engine
with a faulty condenser/capacitor sounds like.
There are 5 types of ignition systems that's used on all small gas engines,
rather if it's a 2- or 4-cycle engine:
-
Magneto Ignition is a self-energizing system with mechanically-operated
contact points. It has breaker points, a condenser/capacitor and an ignition
coil that generates it's own electrical power to produce the spark every
time a magnet in the flywheel or rotor w/magnet pass the coil. The ignition
timing for the magneto ignition is the same as for the battery ignition.
It's set or adjusted by widening or narrowing the gap of the breaker points.
This advances or retards the ignition timing. With the engine not running,
use an
ohmmeter (d) (make sure the
battery is fully charged) or a battery-powered
test light in the points only (the points will act as a
switch) or an automotive strobe timing light (with the engine running) to
set the ignition timing on a magneto system, but a 12 volt battery must be
available to power the timing light. The timing light connects to the battery
and spark plug wire. Because of their compactness and no need for an outside
power source, magneto ignition is very popular on virtually all small engine
equipment. Such as gas-powered string trimmers, chainsaws, lawn mowers, garden
tillers, go-karts, riding mowers, lawn tractors, lawn & garden tractor
and small construction equipment engines.
How
magneto coils produce a spark.
-
NOTE: Most cast iron block and various [bigger] aluminum block air-cooled
small gas engines having an obsolete magneto ignition system with points
and condenser/capacitor can be easily converted to battery ignition. All
that's required is a condenser/capacitor that's designed for battery ignition
(automotive or Kohler), a 12 volt automotive-type ignition coil with a bracket,
an external ballast resistor (normally white
ceramic block 3 to 4 inches long), if the coil requires one, a spark plug
wire with terminals and boots, a 12 volt battery and wiring/connectors. The
same ignition points and spark plug can be used. Due to the higher output
automotive coil, the spark plug gap can be set at .035" for a stronger spark.
Also, the key-operated [magneto] ignition/starter switch will need to be
changed to an automotive-type switch that's designed for battery ignition.
Or, an OFF/ON toggle- or key-switch to power the ignition and a push-button
switch to energize the solenoid/starter motor can be used instead. And with
battery ignition, the engine will need a reliable charging system to keep
the battery fully charged to crank the engine and so the ignition will produce
a strong spark. When converting to battery ignition, remove or disconnect
the magneto coil and condenser/capacitor first. Please click
here if you need a kit to convert
an engine to the battery ignition system.
-
And the reason battery ignition can't be used on the smaller aluminum block
Briggs & Stratton engines is because the [B&S] condenser/capacitor
is part of the ignition points. For battery ignition to work, the wire on
the [battery] condenser/capacitor must be connected to the negative (–)
post on the [battery-type] ignition coil, and the body of the condenser/capacitor
must be grounded to the engine. Therefore, if the condenser/capacitor is
separate from the points, it should work. For a hot and reliable spark on
the smaller aluminum block Briggs & Stratton engines with the
condenser/capacitor as part of the points, install a
B&S's
Magnetron™ electronic ignition module (only for two-post coils), or a
universal electronic transistorized ignition module
(for two- or three-armature coils).
-
NOTE: Sometimes the Magnetron™ module require that the magnets in
the flywheel be re-polarized by Briggs & Stratton to get a spark. But
the universal electronic transistorized ignition modules
doesn't require that the flywheel magnets be re-polarized. If a spark doesn't
occur with the two wires connected to either module, just simply reverse
the wires, then it should spark. Magnetron™ doesn't work this way.
-
On engines with a magneto ignition, I believe the best thing to do
is install one a universal electronic transistorized ignition
module and your ignition problems should be no more. Because sometimes
I too, have a hard time with points and condenser/capacitor trying to get
a spark from various Kohler engines with magneto ignition. Sometimes I have
to set the points as close as .015" just to get a spark. But this makes the
timing so retarded, the engine lacks power. So I remove the points and
condenser/capacitor, plug the points plunger hole, and install a
universal electronic transistorized ignition module.
The engine then has a strong spark, starts quicker and produces a lot more
power. The module puts the timing right where it needs to be. I always get
a good spark with battery ignition. But magneto ignition with points and
condenser/capacitor can sometimes be difficult to get a spark and get the
timing set right. I think it's due to a worn points lobe on the
camshaft.
-
Solid
State Electronic Ignition is a 100% digital system and requires no
mechanical or physical contact to activate any moving parts. It operates
on the same general principle as the magneto system but do not use breaker
points to time the spark and a conventional condenser/capacitor. Instead,
a trigger module containing solid state electronics performs the same function
as the breaker points. Because there are no breaker points in this system,
there are no requirements for ignition timing (on a small engine). Like magneto
ignition, solid state ignition is self-energizing. Therefore, it does not
require an outside electrical source, such as a battery. Solid state ignition
is pretty much maintenance free, with very few parts to wear out or become
defective. Solid state ignition is used on virtually all small engines built
from 1982 to present date.
-
Kohler Breakerless Ignition (and Tecumseh Cast Iron Block Engine Solid
State Ignition) are also a 100% digital system and requires no mechanical
or physical contact to activate any moving parts. It operates basically on
the same general principle as crank/flywheel trigger
electronic ignition. Breakerless Ignition is Kohler's version of a
crank/flywheel trigger electronic ignition system
as described further down in this website. A trigger module containing solid
state electronics performs the same function as the breaker points. Because
there are no breaker points in this system, there are no requirements for
ignition timing. The Module Sensor, as part of the Breakerless Ignition system,
is energized by two windings on the charging stator under the flywheel.
Breakerless Ignition is pretty much maintenance free, with very few parts
to wear out or become defective. But when it does fail, OEM replacement parts
can be very expensive. My custom-made crank/flywheel
trigger electronic ignition kits can replace a defective Breakerless
Ignition system for a fraction of the cost of OEM Kohler parts.
IMPORTANT: The wire that comes from the stator
under the flywheel for Kohler Trigger Module or Tecumseh Solid State Ignition
Module generates about 250 volts while the engine is running at full governored
speed (serious). Do not touch this wire (terminal) with one bare hand and
the engine itself with your other hand while the engine is running! It is
not needed for any of my crank/flywheel trigger electronic ignition systems.
So snip off this wire or tape up the terminal to prevent a short circuit
or electrocution.
-
Transistorized Ignition with breaker points is a combination of an
analog and digital system. This is known as the PointSaver. It produces a
strong spark, allows the ignition points to last longer, perhaps the life
of the engine, and it requires no condenser/capacitor. It requires a 12 volt
source (battery) to power the system.
Ford Motor Company's transistorized ignition system was
originally offered on various Ford vehicles from 1965 to 1972, which is no
longer available. MSD
Performance also offers a transistorized breaker point ignition module
that allows the points to last longer. Go here to construct your own
transistorized point ignition module:
Simple Transistorized Ignition Retrofit for Old Cars.pdf
or
Build_Your_Own_Electronic_Ignition.pdf.
(Each link requires
Adobe
Acrobat Reader and use
Google Chrome web
browser for a faster download.) Two things to take into consideration
about using a transistorized breaker point ignition system is if an engine
sits for a long period of time, the points contacts may become oxidized because
there's not enough "spark" or electrical current going between the contacts
to burn away the oxidation. Another drawback is being the transistorized
breaker point ignition system requires operation of the ignition points,
if the [Kohler] points lobe on the camshaft is worn or becomes worn overtime,
this would retard the ignition timing severely, resulting in loss of engine
power. There is no way to avoid this on a Kohler engine except install a
flared end points pushrod or thread a stainless
steel nut on one end of the OEM points pushrod. The flared end or nut makes
contact with the sides of the worn points lobe on the camshaft. And the entire
engine must be completely disassembled so the flared end points pushrod or
nut-on-points-pushrod can be installed from inside the crankcase.
-
Battery Ignition is an electrically-powered analog system with
mechanically-operated contact points. It uses breaker points, and a different
type of condenser/capacitor than magneto ignition, and an ignition coil that
requires a 12 volt source (battery) to power the system. Battery ignition
is used on most older garden tractors, farm tractors and virtually all older
(pre-1974) automobiles.
-
Maintenance-Free Crank/Flywheel Trigger Electronic
Ignition is a 100% digital system and requires no mechanical or physical
contact to activate any moving parts. It's a combination of the breakerless
and battery ignition because it has no breaker points or condenser/capacitor
but does require a 12 volt source (battery) to power the ignition coil and
an electronic ignition control module/unit (ICU). Virtually all large engines
(farm tractors and automobiles) that's built from the mid-1970s use
crank trigger electronic
ignition or a system similar to
crank trigger electronic
ignition. FYI - The electronic ignition control modules that's
mentioned in this website are designed for older automobiles with a mechanical
timing advance (flyweights) built into the distributor. The newer control
modules that retards and advances the ignition timing use multiple sensors,
one to tell the module that the engine isn't running. Therefore, it retards
the timing (at TDC) so the engine will start easier. And another sensor to
send the signal that the engine is running, and then another sensor to advance
the timing (several degrees BTDC) so the engine will produce full power.
The distributor for these don't have (or require) mechanical timing
flyweights.
By the way - it's best to use a quality-made
automotive battery in a pulling tractor that have its own starter motor,
but no charging system. Not only because an automotive battery holds a charge
longer to crank even the toughest engine after several pulls, they can provide
plenty of power to a battery-powered ignition system for a stronger
spark.
Information about Ignition Coils -
Some ignition
coils have an internal resistor, while others rely on an external ballast
resistor (normally white ceramic block 3 to 4 inches long) or a resistor
wire (in the wiring circuit) to limit the current flowing through the primary
windings within the coil from the 12-volt power source. Various standard-output
ignition coils and most high-output/performance ignition coils require a
minimum 1.5 ohm ballast resistor (originally
came on all 1955-57 General Motors vehicles, all 1953-85 Chrysler, Plymouth
and Dodge vehicles, various 1956-75 Ford vehicles, including various makes
and models of other older vehicles) or a GM or Ford full-length ignition
resistor wire when used with a points and condenser/capacitor ignition system
to prevent excessive burning of the points contacts. The 1.4± ohm
voltage-reducing wire came on all 1958-74 GM vehicles and various 1969-91
Ford vehicles, and connects between the ignition terminal on the fuse block
to the positive (+) coil terminal. A ballast
resistor or ignition resistor wire is basically a voltage reducer that
reduces 12 volts down to anywhere between 8 to 10-1/2 volts, depending on
the load. But if a coil reads "12 VOLTS" on its casing, then it has a built-in
resistor.
According to the extensive research I've done, the ohms primary resistance
of the internal resistor in most common canister-type ignition coils are
as follows: 6 volt automotive/farm tractor coil used with points and condenser:
1.0 ohm; standard-output single post 12 volt small engine coil used with
points and condenser: 3.0 ohm; standard-output single post 12 volt
automotive/farm tractor coil used with points and condenser: 1.5 ohms;
high-output/performance single post 12 volt automotive coils used with electronic
ignition: 0.4, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 1.5 or 3.0 ohms; dual post twin cylinder small
engine coils used with points and condenser: 3.0, 4.0 or 5.0 ohms. And most
common ballast resistors used for ignition systems come in: 0.8, 1.2, 1.3,
1.4, 1.5, 1.6 and 1.8 ohms. Keep in mind when
checking a coil or ballast resistor, the
ohms resistance can vary more or less (±) by 1.0 ohm.
A ballast resistor may not be needed with many new coils because most of
them nowadays have an internal resistor. But with
crank/flywheel trigger electronic
ignition, a coil without an internal resistor, rather if it's a
standard-output or high-output/performance coil, is required to produce full
volts to the spark plug. And using a resistor effects the voltage output
of the coil very little. It only prevents premature burning of the ignition
points contacts. The reason manufacturers don't install a resistor inside
some high-output/performance ignition coils is because these coils draw more
amps from the battery or charging system. This cause the resistor to operate
at a higher temperature, which could overheat and damage the windings within
the coil. If a high-output/performance ignition coil is preferred, when
purchasing one, be sure to ask the salesperson if it have an internal resistor
or if it requires an external resistor. This is important for the life of
the ignition points. The absence of the resistor will, without a doubt, increase
voltage to the spark plugs, and will likely reduce the life of the points
in a mechanical points ignition system.
The plastic lever that one half
of the points contacts is fasten to could also melt or become deformed due
to the excessive heat from the high voltage going through the points in absence
of a ballast resistor. This especially happens
when a
GM DIS (Distributorless Ignition System) coil or a 6 volt
coil is used in a 12 volt system without a 1.6 ohm ballast resistor connected
to reduce the voltage. And a high-output/performance ignition coil has no
effect whatsoever with
crank/flywheel trigger electronic
ignition when using a GM HEI
(High
Energy Ignition) 4-pin, Chrysler (w/ballast resistor) or Ford electronic
ignition control module/unit (ICU) . But the Chrysler control module requires
a ballast resistor to prevent from burning up. Also, most stock coils produce
more than enough voltage when used with even the hottest high performance
engines, especially with
crank/flywheel trigger electronic
ignition.
E3 Spark Plugs -
When using E3
spark plugs, for a stronger spark, use the copper core E3 spark plug(s),
index it/them with the open gap toward the center of the piston, and use
a 1.6 ohm ballast resistor so the points will last longer, and use a high
capacity/performance condenser/capacitor with the high-output/performance
ignition coil to get a stronger spark.
Checking for Spark -
Basically, when checking for spark, remove the spark plug, reattach the spark
plug wire on the plug, place the plug on the sheet metal of the engine, then
crank the engine and observe for spark. If the spark plug has a snappy-sounding
strong blue spark, the plug and ignition
system is in good condition. FYI - The blue color is
burning of hydrogen gas in the atmosphere, and the
snapping sound is breaking of the sound barrier or a very tiny
sonic boom or thunder sound released from the rapid burning
of the hydrogen gas. If the spark is red or white, the plug is fouled.
If there's no spark, try a new spark plug. If there's still no spark, check
the points for cleanliness and correct gap. NOTE: Do not use a battery
charger alone to perform this test. Battery chargers constantly switch between
high and low voltage at 60 cycles per second, and the module sees this as
the ignition being switched on and off resulting in a continuous, constant
array of sparks.
With that said, a simple way to check for spark with battery ignition, having
points and condenser/capacitor, is to connect a jumper wire from the positive
(+) coil terminal to the battery positive (+) post, then either crank the
engine, or with the points in the closed position, open and close them manually
and with the spark plug grounded on a metal part of the engine or equipment,
observe for an snappy-sounding strong
blue spark at the spark plug's tip. FYI - The blue color is
burning of hydrogen gas in the atmosphere, and the
snapping sound is breaking of the sound barrier or a very tiny
sonic boom or thunder sound released from the rapid burning
of the hydrogen gas. If there's no spark, then either the spark plug
is fouled, the points are burnt or dirty, or the coil or condenser/capacitor
is defective. If the spark plug is fouled, the engine may not start, or it
may idle well, but stall when revved up. NOTE: If an engine idles well,
but runs erratically above idle, like it hits and misses, pops and backfires,
then chances are, it needs a new condenser/capacitor. And always install
a condenser/capacitor with the wire or terminal facing down so rain water
and/or when washing off engine, water will not enter inside condenser/capacitor,
ruining it. Click here to hear
what an engine with a faulty condenser/capacitor sounds like.
No Spark Situation -
Solid State Ignition -
-
Remove and test the original spark plug in the engine for spark. Place the
spark plug body on a metal engine part, and when cranking the engine, if
there's a red or white spark at the spark plug's tip, then the spark plug
is definitely fouled. But if no spark, then the spark plug may or may not
be fouled.
-
Use a new spark plug or
spark tester to check for spark. The new spark plug should
have a snappy-sounding strong blue spark.
FYI - The blue color is
burning of hydrogen gas in the atmosphere, and the
snapping sound is breaking of the sound barrier or a very tiny
sonic boom or thunder sound released from the rapid burning
of the hydrogen gas.
-
If no spark, check the condition of the ignition wiring, ignition switch,
safety switches and for correct or faulty connections.
-
If still no spark, check that the kill wire coming from the coil/module isn't
grounded.
-
If still no spark, check if the magnet on the flywheel is cracked. If it
is, then the flywheel will need to be replaced.
-
If still no spark, the solid state ignition coil may need replacing.
Magneto Points and Condenser/Capacitor Ignition System -
-
Remove and check the original spark plug in the engine for spark. Place the
spark plug body on a metal engine part, and when cranking the engine, if
there's a red or white spark at the spark plug's tip, then the spark plug
is definitely fouled. But if no spark, then the spark plug may or may not
be fouled.
-
Use a new spark plug or
spark tester to check for spark. The new spark plug should
have a snappy-sounding strong blue spark.
FYI - The blue color is
burning of hydrogen gas in the atmosphere, and the
snapping sound is breaking of the sound barrier or a very tiny
sonic boom or thunder sound released from the rapid burning
of the hydrogen gas.
-
If no spark, check for a sheared aluminum flywheel key. Install new key if
sheared.
-
If still no spark, check the condition of the ignition wiring, ignition switch,
safety switches and for correct or faulty connections.
-
If still no spark, check if the magnet on the flywheel is cracked. If it
is, then the flywheel will need to be replaced.
-
If still no spark, clean the points contacts with a
steel fingernail file or an
ignition points file or replace the points if excessively
worn or burnt. FYI - Do not use sandpaper or emery cloth to clean points
contacts! These will leave a gritty residue between the contacts, causing
a faulty connection. A thin, steel points file or steel fingernail file is
the only way to thoroughly remove any debris or oxidation from points contacts.
Then use
electrical contact cleaner,
brake cleaner or cleaning solvent (paint thinner) and
150± psi compressed air to clean any oil and metal filings from the
points contacts.
-
If still no spark, check that the points gap is set at .020" with a feeler
gauge, or the ignition timing is set at 20º BTDC. In rare cases,
when cranking the engine and the points don't open enough or don't open at
all, the points lobe on the camshaft may be excessively worn.
-
If still no spark, check that the condenser/capacitor is connected to the
same wire coming from the coil to the points.
-
If still no spark, check that the coil's ground wire is connected to
engine/chassis ground.
-
If still no spark, the points, condenser/capacitor, spark plug, spark plug
wire or coil may need replacing.
Battery-Powered Points and Condenser/Capacitor Ignition System -
-
Remove and test the original spark plug in the engine for spark. Place the
spark plug body on a metal engine part, and when cranking the engine, if
there's a red or white spark at the spark plug's tip, then the spark plug
is definitely fouled. But if no spark, then the spark plug may or may not
be fouled.
-
Use a new spark plug or
spark tester to check for spark. The new spark plug should
have a snappy-sounding strong blue spark.
FYI - The blue color is
burning of hydrogen gas in the atmosphere, and the
snapping sound is breaking of the sound barrier or a very tiny
sonic boom or thunder sound released from the rapid burning
of the hydrogen gas.
-
If no spark, check the condition of the ignition wiring, ignition switch,
safety switches and for correct or faulty connections.
-
If still no spark, check if there's full 12 volts going to the coil.
-
If still no spark, clean the points contacts with a
steel fingernail file or an
ignition points file, or replace the points if excessively
worn or burnt. FYI - Do not use sandpaper or emery cloth to clean points
contacts! These will leave a gritty residue between the contacts, causing
a faulty connection. A thin, steel points file or steel fingernail file is
the only way to thoroughly remove any debris or oxidation from points contacts.
Then use
electrical contact cleaner,
brake cleaner or cleaning solvent (paint thinner) and
150± psi compressed air to clean any oil and metal filings from the
points contacts.
-
If still no spark, check that the points gap is set at .020" with a feeler
gauge, or the ignition timing is set at 20º BTDC. In rare cases,
when cranking the engine and the points don't open enough or don't open at
all, the points lobe on the camshaft may be excessively worn.
-
If still no spark, check that the condenser/capacitor is connected to the
same wire coming from the coil to the points.
-
If still no spark, the points, condenser/capacitor, spark plug, spark plug
wire or coil may need replacing.
How to Test an Ignition Coil to Find if it's in Good Condition to Produce
a Strong Spark - (Updated 4/7/17)
One way to test the primary windings in an ignition coil to find if it's
in good condition is with a
digital multimeter (DMM, DVOM) set on the 200 ohms
(d) reading. IMPORTANT: Make sure the battery
is fully charged and the digital multimeter is warmed to room temperature
for an accurate reading! The accuracy of testing a coil is more complicated
when performed with an
analog multimeter. But not all coils will test good
this way! With certain coils, the secondary windings will show no resistance,
which will be a false indication that it's a defective coil. Therefore, the
best way to test a coil to find if it's in good condition to produce a strong
spark is with three jumper wires (with alligator clips), a battery-ignition
condenser and a fully charged 12 volt battery, preferably metal core spark
plug wire and a known good spark plug. Ignition points are not required and
is irrelevant in performing this test. Connect the wires as follows, then
observe for a spark:
-
Insert the spark plug wire in the coil and on the spark plug terminal, and
connect the battery negative (–) post to the spark plug body, or allow
the plug to rest on a clean and rust-free bare metal bench/table top if it's
being used as the battery negative (–) ground.
-
Connect the battery positive (+) post to the positive (+) coil
terminal.NOTE: If the two small terminals on the coil aren't marked (+)
and (–), then connect the wires to either terminal. The coil's metal
casing/frame does not need to be grounded.
-
Connect the lead on the condenser to the negative (–) coil terminal
and connect the body of the condenser to the battery negative (–) ground.
-
Momentarily make contact with a jumper wire from the negative (–) coil
terminal to the battery negative (–) ground. This will simulate the
ignition points. A spark should occur at the spark plug's tip each time the
jumper wire taps the ground. If no spark, then the coil is defective or recheck
the connections. FYI - A high-output/performance coil will produce a
noticeably snappier-sounding and stronger
blue spark than a standard-output coil.
FYI - The blue color is
burning of hydrogen gas in the atmosphere, and the
snapping sound is breaking of the sound barrier or a very tiny
sonic boom or thunder sound released from the rapid burning
of the hydrogen gas.
Typical Battery Points and Condenser/Capacitor
Ignition System for a Garden Tractor
If the ignition coil has an internal resistor, connect the wires as shown
below...
But if the coil require an external resistor
(ballast resistor), connect the wires as shown
below...
How to Test the Strength of an Ignition System
-
First
of all, when checking the strength of an ignition system, do not use the
type of spark tester that connects between the spark plug and the spark plug
wire! This type may show a false indication if the spark plug is weak or
fouled. Therefore, it's best use a
universal spark tester like the ones pictured to the right.
These connect between the spark plug wire and engine ground. But when testing
the strength of the spark with the just the spark plug, always use a new
spark plug, and the ignition must be strong enough to produce an audible
snappy-sounding strong blue spark at
the plug's tip. A good spark plug is supposed to produce a snappy-sounding
strong blue spark with it placed somewhere
on the engine when the engine is cranked. FYI - The blue color is
burning of hydrogen gas in the atmosphere, and the
snapping sound is breaking of the sound barrier or a very tiny
sonic boom or thunder sound released from the rapid burning
of the hydrogen gas. If the spark is visibly white or
red in color, either the [used] spark
plug is fouled or the ignition coil is weak and needs replacing. Unlike gasoline,
alcohol fuels (ethanol and methanol) will rarely foul spark plugs. And depending
on which gas is burned in a competition pulling engine, use only the type
of spark plug that's recommended by the manufacturer of the engine. If the
wrong type of plug is used, the engine will lose power.
Engines with a points and condenser/capacitor magneto ignition system can
be cranked over slowly to produce a spark. But most engines with a solid
state ignition (B&S's Magnetron™) must be cranked over quickly to produce
a spark. However, on engines with battery ignition, there's really no need
to crank the engine to check for spark. What can be done is momentarily and
lightly connect the points contacts with a small metal object, such as the
tip of a screwdriver.
Also, if the spark plug's tip is black and/or has wet gas on it, and if you
think the problem is in the carburetor, well, the carburetor is probably
working fine because the engine is obviously getting plenty of gas. As an
older, experienced mechanic once said, "Most carburetor problems are electrical."
(Meaning faulty ignition system.) This have been proven true more times than
I can remember.
How to Test the Strength of an Ignition Coil's Output Voltage -
The way I test a stock coil is I connect it in a circuit, like it's on an
engine and if it produces a spark with at least a 3/4" wide gap, it's a good
coil. A high-output/performance ignition coil should produce a spark with
a wider gap.
All
conventional point-ignition systems that's installed on garden tractor and
automotive engines utilizes a standard-output [20,000-30,000 volt] coil.
And all automotive (distributor) electronic ignition systems utilize a
high-output/performance (40,000 volt) coil. The obvious and visual differences
in these coils is by the height of the center tower. The standard-output
coil has a shorter center tower. In most cases, it's not capable of producing
enough volts to short out (jump) to the small terminals. And all
high-output/performance coils have a taller tower, to keep the spark from
shorting or jumping to the small terminals. Most standard-output battery
ignition coils that's designed for a small engine, such as Kohler, Tecumseh,
etc., have a 3.0, 4.0 or 5.0 ohm internal primary resistor. And most
standard-output coils that's designed for a points/distributor-type ignition
system (automotive, farm tractor, etc.) have a 1.5 ohm internal primary resistor.
And most high-output/performance coils for electronic/distributor-type ignition
systems or Distributorless Ignition System (DIS) have a 0.4 ohm internal
primary resistor. The size of the resistor allows for full
coil saturation so the points will last longer
and so the engine will accelerate to full speed (wide open throttle), and
if it's for crank/flywheel trigger electronic ignition, to prevent from burning
up the control module.
Some coils are marked with printing on the
casing to indicate their ohms resistance, but sometimes the wording may not
be 100% accurate, or it may read: "Use With External Resistor". But it does
not say the size ohms resistance of the external/ballast resistor that should
be used. So when replacing a coil or when purchasing a new coil for any
particular engine or ignition system, ALWAYS check the value of the ohms
resistance to be 100% certain that the coil will be suitable for the ignition
system it is designed for. Use an ohmmeter to
check the coil, even if it's at a small
engine shop, local auto parts store, etc. Click
here to learn how to check the ohms resistance in a coil.
If you've ever experienced the metal strap on an ignition coil
of breaking due to normal engine vibration (especially at higher RPM or
wide
open throttle) and because the metal itself is too thin, then what you
need to do is either fabricate a strap made of thicker metal, or install
two coil straps as shown in the picture to the right, and be sure to fasten
the straps securely. This will double the life of the clamps and lessen the
chances of either strap of ever breaking again.
Ever had a good run going down
the track and all of a sudden the engine dies, and you found the cause was
the [failed] ignition coil? Well, chances are, it wasn't designed for use
on a garden pulling tractor, especially when the engine is ran at
wide
open throttle. Even new oil-filled canister coils have been known to
fail in a very short time on a garden pulling tractor. The reason some coils
fail is due to normal single cylinder engine vibration running at high RPM
or wide
open throttle. The tiny wires (or windings) inside the coil will vibrate
and break over time. Even the insulation on the windings themselves will
"rub" or scrape against the other internal wires, resulting in a short, and
eventual coil failure. That's why it's best to use an epoxy filled
or molded epoxy coil to prevent the windings from vibrating, shorting
out and/or breaking. The epoxy holds the wires solid, resulting in no vibration
of the windings whatsoever. Most epoxy filled or molded epoxy coils produce
up to 45,000 volts, too. So for the little difference in price, accept no
substitutes! Epoxy filled or molded epoxy coils are most reliable for use
on a garden pulling tractor. To prevent prematurely burning the ignition
points, it's best to check the coil with a
digital multimeter to determine if it require an external
resistor or not.
A coil with a 1.0 ohm internal primary resistor works great in a 6 volt ignition
system to prevent premature burning of the points contacts. A coil with a
1.5 ohm internal primary resistor connected to a 1.4 ohm ballast resistor
or resistor wire works great with a distributor/point ignition system to
prevent premature burning of the points contacts. And a coil with a 3.0+
ohm internal primary resistor works great for a small engine with points
& condenser to prevent premature burning of the points contacts. And
coil with a 0.4 ohm internal primary resistor works great with solid state
or crank/flywheel trigger ignition, like what's mentioned in this website.
Any ignition coil with a 1.0 ohm internal resister or a
GM DIS (Distributorless Ignition System) coil can be safely
used in a 6 volt ignition system without a ballast
resistor or ignition resistor wire. But to use a 6 volt coil in a 12
volt ignition system, simply use a minimum 1.2
ohm
ballast resistor in series between the power
supply and positive (+) coil terminal to reduce the voltage to the coil and
current through the points. The coil should produce a strong spark, operate
cool to the touch and last a long time. The points should last a long time,
too. To check if a coil is rather for 6 volts (and can be used in a 12 volt
ignition system with a ballast resistor) or for 12 volts, perform the test
below Ê.
A battery ignition coil with a primary resistance of 0.6 ohms is most definitely
a high energy coil with a voltage output of about 30-45,000 volts and the
primaries must be switched electronically as that coil will draw around 20
amps. Coils that are around 2.5 to 3.0 ohms are internally ballasted and
don't need an external ballast resistor, and have medium voltage output of
about 15-35,000 volts. Coils between 4 and 6 ohms are also internally ballasted
and do not require a ballast resistor, and have low voltage output of about
12-20,000 volts.
Primary resistance is a function of impedence and the lower it is, the faster
the rise and fall time of the primary magnetic field and the greater its
strength, causing a much higher induced voltage at the secondary winding.
Points can only handle about 3 amps continuously and thereby put a limit
on the coil's output by restricting the primary resistance to 4 or 5 ohms.
A ballast resistor is a way of allowing the use of a much lower impedence
coil (1.5 ohm) without letting the primary current get too high and burning
the points contacts. This almost doubles the coil's output, which, in turn
allows for wider plug gaps, so that it can ignite much richer fuel mixtures
with the more energetic spark.
Ballast and ignition resistors with a higher
ohms value are
known as "Point Savers." The higher the
ohms primary
resistance an ignition resistor has, being if it's a ballast resistor and/or
a resistor inside an ignition coil, the longer the ignition points contacts
will last (as long as the points/contacts are installed clean, and doesn't
become contaminated with dust, oil or water). A 12 volt ignition coil with
a 3.0 ohm internal primary resistor connected to a 1.6 ohm ballast resistor
(highest value ballast resistor available) when used in a points ignition
system will allow the points contacts to possibly last the life of the engine.
And just one standard capacity [Kohler] condenser/capacitor can be used.
Install the 1.6 ohm ballast resistor between the coil positive (+) terminal
and wire coming from the ignition switch to the coil. This will allow the
points to possibly last the life of the engine. Because the increased resistance
allows a very low current (flow of electricity) pass through the points contacts,
resulting in much less
electrical
arcing of the contacts. This will drastically reduce the premature burning
away of the platinum coating on the points contacts. The ignition system
will still provide a strong spark because an average small engine requires
only a fraction of voltage from the coil. And this is best used with general
lawn & garden, snow removal, etc. equipment engines, and not for competition
pulling.
How to Check the Value of the Ohms
(d) Resistance of an Ignition Coil, Ballast
Resistor, Ignition Resistor Wire or Spark Plug Wire -
Virtually all ceramic-body ballast resistors
do not have any indication or markings of its
ohms primary
resistance. Therefore, it will need to be tested to verify the resistance
for it to work correctly with the connected device. If it's used resistor,
inspect the ceramic portion for signs of overheating. An overheated (overloaded)
resistor will be dark or blackened. Such a resistor should not be used. And
most 12 volt ignition coils have either an 1.5 or 3.0 ohm internal primary
resistor. 6 volt coils have a 1.0 ohm internal primary resistor. All
battery-ignition coils have an internal resistor and some coils require an
additional external resistor for two reasons: 1: to provide a stronger spark
so a cold engine will start quicker (as the engine warms up, the resistor
gradually drops the voltage to around 9 volts to the points contacts so they
will last longer, or to the electronic ignition control unit to keep it from
burning up); and 2: to protect the primary windings from current spikes from
the charging generator or alternator. Anyway, the best way to determine the
value of the resistor is with a digital multimeter. When in doubt of the
ohms value in a coil, it can be checked as follows:
-
Spark plug wires can be accurately checked with either an
analog or
digital multimeter, but the accuracy of checking the resistor
in a coil, ballast resistor or ignition resistor wire is more complicated
when performed with an analog multimeter. Therefore, the most accurate way
to check the ohms resistance in a coil, ballast resistor or ignition resistor
wire is with a digital multimeter (DMM, DVOM). And make sure the battery
is fully charged in either multimeter, and that the digital multimeter is
warmed to room temperature for an accurate reading.
-
Switch on the digital multimeter, plug the red test lead connector in the
Vd receptacle, and plug the black test lead
connector in the COM receptacle, then select the 200 ohms
(d) setting. On some digital multimeters,
resistance is denoted by the capital Greek letter Omega
(d), which stands for ohms.
-
Digital Ohmmeter Calibration: Touch the test leads together and observe the
reading on the display. Be sure to keep your fingers off the metal leads,
because your body could disrupt the resistance, resulting in an inaccurate
reading. If the meter shows slightly higher than 0.0, this is the resistance
in the circuitry of the digital multimeter. This figure will need to be
subtracted from the reading of the ballast resistor or resistor in the ignition
coil. For example: If the resistor's resistance reading is 1.9 ohms, but
when the digital multimeter leads are connected together, the reading is
0.5 Ohms, then the resistor's resistance is actually 1.4 Ohms. Do the arithmetic:
1.9 Ohms - 0.5 Ohms = 1.4 Ohms. This calibration procedure applies only to
resistance measurements made in the 200 ohms
(d) setting of a digital Ohmmeter. It may take
a few seconds for the Ohmmeter to settle until it displays the lowest resistance
in the circuitry. Make a note of this reading.
-
With the ballast resistor, resistor wire,
coil or spark plug wire not connected to anything, connect the test leads
to the terminals on the ballast resistor, ends of the resistor wire, small
terminals on the coil or the terminals of the spark plug wire. Being there's
no polarity, it doesn't matter which terminals they're connected to. Again,
be sure to keep your fingers off the metal leads or terminals!
-
The resistance in or of the item being tested will now be displayed on the
digital multimeter screen. Again, it may take a few seconds for the digital
multimeter to settle so it'll display the lowest resistance. This figure
will need to be subtracted from the resistance in the digital multimeter
circuitry. Click here to see a YouTube video on
Ignition
Coil Test (The Short Version).
-
Use a permanent ink felt tip marker
(Sharpie metallic silver permanent marker for dark colored
coils and a
Sharpie black
permanent marker for bright colored ballast resistors,
coils or masking tape on resistor wires and spark plug wires) or
paint marker to note on the ignition part its ohms resistance
for future reference. Return to previous
paragraph or website.
All automotive
high-output/performance or OEM electronic ignition coils, including the popular
12 volt Bosch blue coil with an internal resistor,
have more primary and secondary windings than a standard-output coil. This
is how they produce more voltage for a stronger spark. When used with a points
and condenser/capacitor ignition system, the energy of the primary windings
within the coil is transferred in the condenser/capacitor. And in most cases,
one standard capacity condenser/capacitor isn't capable of
handling the excessive amount of electricity from the primary windings to
fully energize the secondary windings within the coil, thus allowing the
coil to produce a low voltage or weak spark at any RPM, which will cause
the engine to idle poorly and run poorly. Sometimes when using a
high-output/performance ignition coil with one standard capacity (Kohler)
condenser/capacitor, black smoke will blow out the exhaust at idle and flames
will shoot out the exhaust at high RPM or
wide
open throttle.
For a high-output/performance
ignition system operate at 100% efficiency and produce more voltage at any
RPM, it's best to use two standard capacity (Kohler) condensers/capacitors
or one high-capacity/performance condenser/capacitor. Using either two standard
capacity (Kohler) condensers/capacitors or one high-capacity/performance
condenser/capacitor will allow an engine to idle better, run smoother, and
produce more power at high RPM or at
wide
open throttle. Connect both condensers/capacitors to the negative (–)
coil terminal, or to the wire going to the points, and make sure each
condenser/capacitor is grounded. If an engine is built right, the ignition
timing is set correct, and if the carburetor is adjusted correctly, with
two standard capacity (Kohler) condensers/capacitors or one
high-capacity/performance condenser/capacitor, the exhaust (appearance) should
be cleaner at idle, and with no flames at high RPM or
wide
open throttle. A stock or standard-output coil will not produce more
voltage than what it is designed for with two standard capacity (Kohler)
condensers/capacitors or one high-capacity/performance condenser/capacitor.
But it will produce 100% voltage with two standard capacity (Kohler)
condensers/capacitors or one high-capacity/performance condenser/capacitor.
And with crank/flywheel trigger
electronic ignition, if an electronic ignition control module/unit
(ICU) with a high-capacity transistor is used, a standard-output or
high-output/performance coil will produce 100% voltage regardless. And if
you're wondering, any type of ignition points can be used with any type of
coil and condenser/capacitor.
NOTE: If an engine idles well, but runs erratically above idle, like it
hits and misses, pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs a new
condenser/capacitor. And always install a condenser/capacitor with the wire
or terminal facing down so rain water and/or when washing off engine, water
will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it.
Click here to hear what an engine
with a faulty condenser/capacitor sounds like.
When choosing a high-output/performance ignition coil, such as a Chrysler
electronic ignition canister coil, if it reads on the casing: "use with
electronic ignition" (or something like this), all this means is if the coil
is used with full 12 volts, and with points and [one standard capacity]
condenser/capacitor, the points won't last long due to the higher voltage
going through them. To use the coil, simply install a [1.6 ohm resistance]
ballast resistor before the coil to decrease
the voltage going through the coil and the points, and the points should
last longer. And definitely use two standard capacity (Kohler)
condensers/capacitors or one high-capacity/performance condenser/capacitor
so the coil will produce more voltage. (When using two condensers/capacitors,
connect each condenser/capacitor to the negative (–) coil terminal,
or to the wire going to the points, and make sure each condenser/capacitor
is grounded.) NOTE: If an engine idles well, but runs erratically above
idle, like it hits and misses, pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs
a new condenser/capacitor. And always install a condenser/capacitor with
the wire or terminal facing down so rain water and/or when washing off engine,
water will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it.
Click here to hear what an engine
with a faulty condenser/capacitor sounds like.
Causes of Engine "Popping" or Backfire -
-
Popping out the carburetor is usually the result of a lean air/fuel mixture.
-
Popping out the exhaust is probably because of a weak spark. If you're using
a high performance ignition coil, then two standard capacity (Kohler)
condensers/capacitors or one high-capacity/performance (automotive)
condenser/capacitor is required so the coil can produce more voltage to the
spark plug. (When using two condensers/capacitors, connect each
condenser/capacitor to the negative (–) coil terminal, or to the wire
going to the points, and make sure each condenser/capacitor is grounded.)
-
If an engine idles well, but runs erratically above idle, like it hits and
misses, pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs a new condenser/capacitor.
Click here to hear what an engine
with a defective condenser/capacitor sounds like.
When replacing the ignition coil on a Kohler engine model KT17,
KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II, K482, K532, K582, or Onan twin cylinder
engines, instead of using the high-dollar standard-output OEM Kohler coil,
you can use either two automotive-type canister coils with two
condensers/capacitors (one condenser/capacitor per coil), a 2-post
Harley-Davidson coil (this particular coil also works great
for Kohler engine model KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II, K482,
K532, K582, K660/K662, or Onan twin cylinder engines, or a
GM DIS (Distributorless Ignition System) coil.
The DIS coil has a 0.4 ohm internal
primary resistor. So when using a DIS coil with points, two ballast resistors,
a 1.0 ohm and 1.6 ohm (which totals the minimum requirement of 3.0 ohms
resistance for points), will need to be connected to the coil for longer
points life and to prevent premature burning of the points contacts. And
two standard capacity condensers/capacitors or one high capacity/performance
condenser/capacitor will also need to be used with this coil so it will produce
maximum voltage to the spark plugs, allowing the engine accelerate to full
speed (wide open throttle) with no hesitation or misfire. Also, the
DIS coil is a high-output/performance coil that produces up to 40,000 volts,
so the spark plug gaps can be set at .060" each. The DIS coil has molded
epoxy internal construction, which makes it vibration-resistant. The DIS
coil part numbers are AC Delco D555 or Standard Motor Products DR39X, and
was used in select GM vehicles from 1985 to the 2005, one of which is the
2005 Chevrolet Impala. There is no positive (+) or negative (–) connections
on the two small terminals on these coils. They can be connected either way.
When using points with 12 volts, install a ballast
resistor to prevent burning up the coil, and connect two standard capacity
(Kohler) condensers/capacitors or one high-capacity/performance
condenser/capacitor so the coil will produce more voltage. (When using two
condensers/capacitors, connect each condenser/capacitor to the negative (–)
coil terminal, or to the wire going to the points, and make sure each
condenser/capacitor is grounded.) A ballast
resistor is not required with
crank/flywheel trigger electronic
ignition or in a 6 volt system. NOTE: If an engine idles well,
but runs erratically above idle, like it hits and misses, pops and backfires,
then chances are, it needs a new condenser/capacitor. And always install
a condenser/capacitor with the wire or terminal facing down so rain water
and/or when washing off engine, water will not enter inside condenser/capacitor,
ruining it. Click here to hear
what an engine with a faulty condenser/capacitor sounds like.
Go here to see how well the GM DIS coil works:
Gravely 817 Onan CCKA Coil Replacement with Chevy GM DIS Coil
- YouTube (Video posted by Ralph
(rw3dog@yahoo.com)
If the engine is has opposed 180º cylinders, then only one module and
one [two post] coil can be used to fire both cylinders. The engine will have
a wasted spark. One cylinder will fire on the compression stroke, while other
will fire on the exhaust stroke. But being the 90º V-twin engines fire
at 90º intervals and not at 180º for each cylinder, two separate
modules and two coils will need to be used.
Causes of Ignition Coil Failures -
Most battery-powered ignition coils will last the life of an engine. But
if a quality coil keeps going bad for no apparent reason, then there are
three things that will cause this. They are...
-
Lack of a ballast resistor or a resistor wire
before the coil. (If the coil requires one.)
-
Defective voltage regulator or rectifier. If the charging system continues
to charge with no gradual "falling back" reading on the amp
gauge (if installed), this will put too much voltage throughout the entire
electrical system, especially the coil, eventually burning out the primary
windings within the coil. Overcharging of the charging system could also
burn up the electronic ignition control module/unit (ICU) used with a
crank/flywheel trigger electronic system, burn
up the battery (cause the acid to boil), burn out light bulbs, electric PTO
clutch and any other electrical accessories. Therefore, if it's not already
equipped, it's best to install an amp gauge to keep
an eye on the charging system. Having an amp gauge
installed is very important in monitoring the charging system to prevent
premature failure of electrical components. By the time you smell something
burning or see smoke, it may be too late.
-
If a garden tractor is equipped with an automotive
battery, it may have a dead cell or all the cells are weak (defective
battery.) Unlike in an automobile, and if the starter motor is in good
condition, a weak automotive battery will have more than enough cranking
amps to crank over a small, single- or two-cylinder engine with no problem,
and a drop in the battery's cranking amps wouldn't be that noticeable while
cranking the engine to start it. Whether if it's in a garden tractor or an
automobile, an automotive battery with a dead cell or weak cells will cause
the charging system to continually try to recharge the battery, but instead
of the battery taking full charge, the charging system will put too much
voltage through the coil for long periods of time, causing the primary windings
within the coil to burn up. If an engine has a battery-powered electronic
ignition, this too, could burn up the electronic ignition control module,
burn out light bulbs and electrical accessories. To determine if a battery
is defective, use a load tester for sealed-top batteries, and for batteries
with removable caps, test the battery's acid condition with a hydrometer
battery tester (glass tube with floating balls [pocket size] or a floating
bulb [full size]; which are available at virtually any auto parts store).
Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an
amp gauge to keep an eye on the charging system.
-
Although rare, severe engine vibrations could cause the tiny wires inside
the coil to break. Read more about this below
Ê.
Why Do Some Magneto Ignition Coils To Go Bad?
I think the Briggs & Stratton, Kohler KT-series and Magnum
twin cylinder opposed flathead twin cylinder engines are the best that was
made, but their ignition coil has its shortcomings. The real problem with
these engines is they use one (small) ignition coil to fire two spark plugs,
one per cylinder, and after several years of use, sometimes the coil will
fail to produce a spark, rather if the engine has points and condenser/capacitor,
Magnetron™ or a solid state module. Unfortunately, some ignition coils don't
last the life of the engine. As the spark plug's electrode and/or the resistor
in a resistor-type spark plug deteriorates, the secondary windings within
the coil is forced to produce more voltage to fire the plug at higher RPMs.
Eventually, the increase in voltage will overheat and burn out the secondary
windings within the coil, causing coil failure. This is why quality-made
copper core spark plugs should always be used with a small or magneto ignition
coil. The coil burns out because one coil must fire two spark plugs at one
time with the plug gaps set at .030" each (factory recommended setting).
With these size gaps, this is the same as firing one spark plug with a gap
of .060"! Most magneto coils are not designed to produce this much voltage
and may not last too long when they do. The coil is forced to produce more
voltage than is necessary to fire both plugs and this causes the secondary
windings within the coil to overheat and eventually burn out. And as the
spark plugs deteriorate with age, the coil is forced to produce even more
voltage to make a spark through the weak plugs. So to lessen the chance of
a good coil going bad (again), set the spark plug gaps at .015" each. The
.015" gaps will simulate having just one spark plug with a .030" gap, and
the coil will operate much cooler and should last a lot longer. Dyno tests
proved that the engine will still start quickly, idle smooth and accelerate
quickly to full speed, run the same and produce just as much power at higher
RPM as it did with the .030" spark plug gaps. And be sure to set the ignition
coil laminations to flywheel magnet air gap/clearance at .010". The paper
box a new coil comes in can be used as a gauge. It has pretty much the same
thickness as a business card or poster board.
The use of resistor-type spark plugs shortens the life of most small engine
magneto or solid state ignition coils. Therefore, it's best to use a high
quality spark plug with a copper core gapped at .025" for single cylinder
and V-twin engines, and .015" each for opposed twin cylinder engines to prevent
overheating of secondary windings within the coil and possibly causing premature
coil failure. Set the laminations to the flywheel magnet clearance (air gap)
at .010". And the easiest and most accurate way to set the air gap is to
use a business card, poster board, or part of the box the new coil came in.
These measure about .010" thickness. Place a strip of the paper or box between
the coil's laminations and magnet in the flywheel and allow the magnet to
pull the laminations to it, then tighten the coil mounting screws securely.
Also, when a coil goes bad, save the spark plug wire(s) off the defective
coil. These have a stranded metal core wire, and with a
coil (distributor) terminal and
coil tower boot installed, it/they can be used on an engine
with a magneto, battery-powered or custom crank/flywheel trigger ignition
system.
Or instead of doing the above È, if
an older Briggs & Stratton twin cylinder flathead engine has points,
it can be easily converted to the more reliable and higher output battery
ignition (for a stronger spark). The B&S ignition points can be still
used, but two automotive canister-type ignition coils or a battery ignition
coil with dual plug terminals (as described above
È) with spark plug wires, and two battery
ignition condensers/capacitors will need to be used. The spark plug gaps
can be set at .035", and the ignition timing can be set by the width of the
points gap (.020") or with an automotive strobe timing light after the flywheel
is degreed in with timing marks. The timing light connects to the battery
and spark plug wire.
And if you're wondering if surface rust on flywheel magnets reduces magnetism
and/or strength of the spark on the armature of a magneto ignition coil,
well, I know for a proven fact that surface rust does not affect magnetism
or strength of the spark whatsoever. (This is the same as saying that pure,
undiluted automotive
antifreeze
coolant will freeze solid in freezing weather. It will NOT freeze! And despite
of what you've probably heard, putting sugar in the gas tank will NOT ruin
the engine! Read about it here:
snopes.com:
Sugar in the Gas Tank.) Don't just theorize about such things, believe
in myths, rumors or what some
[delusional]
people/mechanics/technicians tell you. Perform a scientific test to prove
to yourself and debunk the myths. I always do.
And for anyone who's wondering, an standard-output automotive battery ignition
condenser/capacitor with an automotive canister ignition coil will work on
any one- or two-cylinder air-cooled engine that use the battery ignition
system. But when using two automotive ignition coils on a twin- or two-cylinder
engine with conventional points, be sure to use two condensers/capacitors
as well, one for each coil , only if the coil(s) requires one. Otherwise,
the engine will idle, but may not accelerate. And there's a very little
difference between the Kohler battery ignition condenser/capacitor and an
automotive [GM, Ford or Chrysler] ignition [points] condenser/capacitor.
So either can be used on a small engine.
What are the Best Spark Plugs to
Use for an Ordinary Lawn & Garden Tractor or Garden Pulling Tractor?
First of all, avoid using low
cost, inferior quality or "cheapie" spark plugs, especially with the wording
"LAWN MOWER" printed on the porcelain! I never
had one of these last more than 5 minutes in any engine. Also, since I began
repairing small engines in 1982, I've heard great things about NGK spark
plugs, but in my personal experience, I found that they are nothing but
junk! Before installing the [correct type of] NGK spark plug in the
engine, to remove all doubts about the strength of the ignition system, I
would check the [NGK] spark plug to verify if it has a snappy-sounding
strong blue spark, to which it had. FYI
- The blue color is
burning of hydrogen gas in the atmosphere, and the
snapping sound is breaking of the sound barrier or a very tiny
sonic boom or thunder sound released from the rapid burning
of the hydrogen gas. Then after installing the plug, to my surprise,
it would foul-out (develop a weak spark) when priming the carburetor with
gas and cranking the engine to get it started! And if an engine did start,
it would only run for a few seconds before another [NGK] plug became fouled.
I've had this happen with every NGK spark plug! I hate to say this
about a product that many claim to be superior, but it's the honest truth.
They say that seeing is believing, and I believe this product to be inferior.
If anyone has good luck or results using NGK spark plugs, then maybe they
should purchase a lottery ticket, too. 
I've found that Autolite and Champion non-resistor/copper core type spark
plugs are the best quality. These do not foul-out and they last a long time.
Also, it'll be a good idea to avoid using resistor-type spark plugs in a
small engine with magneto or solid state ignition. Resistor plugs will cause
a good magneto or solid state ignition coil to go bad prematurely because
they force the secondary windings within the coil to produce higher voltage
to fire the plug, eventually causing the windings to burn out.
Spark Plug Wires - (Updated 10/16/16)
The best way to determine if
a spark plug wire has a carbon- or metal core wire is with a set on the 200
ohms (d) setting for a
digital multimeter or x1K setting for an
analog multimeter. Touch the multimeter leads together
to adjust for (analog) or take note of (digital) the zero resistance. Now
connect the leads of the multimeter to the ends of the spark plug wire. If
the reading displays zero resistance, it's a
metal core plug wire. But if it displays any resistance
at all, it's most likely a
suppression/carbon core spark plug wire. Most metal core
spark plug wires rarely lose resistance, resulting in a weak spark. The only
time they need replacing is when damaged beyond use. Any spark plug wire
can be checked with an analog or digital multimeter set on 200 ohms
(d) resistance. Also, all ordinary small engine
spark plug wires have a stranded metal core wire and are considered high
performance.
Copper core spark plugs, such as the Autolite 216 and Champion 844 (H10C),
and small engine spark plug wires, which have a metal core wire, are the
best things to use for competition pulling. By using a copper core plug and
metal core wire, more voltage will reach the spark plug's tip, especially
under high compression when the engine is running at wide open throttle,
resulting in a much stronger spark. A stock, standard-output ignition coil
with a metal spark plug wire and a copper core spark plug will produce about
the same voltage at the spark plug's tip as a high-output/performance coil
with a suppression/carbon core spark plug wire and a resistor-type spark
plug.
On any ignition system, the coil produce is less voltage at idle or cruising
speeds (in an automobile) when the throttle plate is partially open, and
when the throttle plate is opened more or in the wide open throttle position
to increase the engine's RPM, being the combustion chamber is more air (and
fuel) to build up more compression, the coil is forced to produce more voltage
to fire the spark(s). As a
suppression/carbon core spark plug wire and/or resistor-type
spark plug gets weak (they deteriorate with use), the ignition coil is forced
to produce even more voltage. Eventually, as the suppression/carbon core
wire and/or resistor plug gets so weak, the coil can't produce enough voltage
and an engine misfire occurs, or the engine will die out upon acceleration.
This will happen even with a high-output/performance coil. It just takes
longer for the high-output coil to reach maximum voltage as the
suppression/carbon core spark plug wire and/or resistor-type spark plug
deteriorate to cause an engine misfire. The use of aged and deteriorated
suppression/carbon core spark plug wire and/or an old resistor-type spark
plug will also cause a good coil to eventually fail because the secondary
windings within the coil overheat and eventually burn up from producing excessive
voltage to fire the plug.
If a spark plug wire has no markings rather if it's a suppression/carbon
or metal core wire type, it can be checked with an
analog or
digital multimeter set on ohms
(d) resistance. Connect the leads of the meter
to the terminals of the spark plug wire, if it reads full scale, it's a metal
core wire type. But if the meter reads about halfway, it's suppression/carbon
core spark plug wire. The same test can be performed on a questionable spark
plug, with accurate results. And remember - spark plug wires and spark plugs
are like women, it's what's on the inside that matters.
And in my experience, it seems that it makes no difference of what type of
spark plug works best for gas or methanol fuel. But a wider gap (.060") works
better with methanol. And gas burns just fine with a standard gap of .035".
Click here for
Champion Spark Plug's Numbering System.
And the use of a "cold" or "hot" spark plug (heat range) doesn't matter in
a pulling engine with a steel flywheel that have no fins because these engines
have no cooling system to cool or extract the heat from the plug. When there's
no fins on a flywheel or with an electric fan not running to cool the engine,
nothing will cool the engine, except for a swift breeze on a cool, windy
day.
Did you know that installing two spark plugs per cylinder doesn't help
to increase the power output of an engine whatsoever? Simply because
one plug will be running hot (exhaust side) and the other will be cool (intake
side). Engine power is generated from the heat source, because heat is how
an engine produces power. When the spark
plug in the cylinder head is located over the exhaust valve, this maintains
the majority of the heat in the combustion chamber in one area. When heat
is maintained in one particular area in any given combustion chamber, the
increase in power will be much greater, especially at high
RPM. Burning fuel within a combustion chamber will "find" or locate the main
heat source. The fuel will burn more thoroughly, allowing the engine to produce
more power at any RPM. If the plug is located in the center of the combustion
chamber, the incoming fuel could splash against the plug's tip and cause
the engine to misfire or run erratic at high speed, especially when burning
methanol fuel. And the plug could easily
become fouled when burning gas, especially when the engine is cold. So it's
best to install just one spark plug positioned over the exhaust valve with
the plug gap set at .060". Because a .060" gap will simulate having two spark
plugs. Use of a high-output/performance ignition coil will help produce a
stronger spark, too.
Indexing the Spark Plug(s) -
Indexing the spark plug(s) helps to increase
engine horsepower and torque. This is when the open or exposed gap of the
plug face the piston when the plug is torqued in the head. When the open
gap faces the piston, this helps in a more thorough combustion of the fuel
so the engine will produce more power and torque at high RPM or
wide
open throttle. An indexing washer of a certain thickness is used to
index the spark plug(s). An indexing washer is placed on
the threads of the spark plug to set the plug at a certain position in the
head with the open gap toward the piston. Indexing washers come in various
thicknesses, made of copper for better heat transfer when used with air-
or water-cooled racing engines, or steel washers can be used with non-cooled
high performance pulling engines. The thin shims/washers for Kohler balance
gears can also be used as indexing washers for spark plug(s) on non-cooled
engines. Use a permanent ink felt tip marker
(Sharpie or
Marks-A-Lot) to place a line on the porcelain of the spark
plug in-line with the open or exposed gap on the end of the plug. This is
so you will know where the open or exposed gap is when the plug is installed
in the head.
Furthermore, when the spark plug
in the cylinder head is located over the exhaust valve, this maintains the
majority of the heat in the combustion chamber in one area, instead of being
spread throughout the combustion chamber. When heat is maintained in one
particular area in any given combustion chamber, the increase in power will
be much greater, especially at high RPM. Burning fuel within
a combustion chamber will "find" or seek out the main heat source. The fuel
will burn more thoroughly, allowing the engine to produce more power at any
RPM. If the plug is located in the center of the combustion chamber, the
incoming fuel could splash against the plug's tip and cause the engine to
misfire or run erratic at high speed, especially when burning
methanol fuel. And the plug could easily
become fouled when burning gas, especially when the engine is being choked
or primed with fuel to start it when it's cold.
Return to previous paragraph or
website.
Advertisement:
If you need any of the parts or services listed below
Ê, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136
USA |  Phone: 1-573-256-0313
(shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays),
9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When
speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's
shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends (except Holidays).
Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
 Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
 E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest.
Please click here
to place an order. You can also make the drive to A-1 Miller's shop to
personally drop off and pick up your engine, transaxle, tractor, etc. for
rebuilding or repairs. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never
long." |
| FYI - I can install a
crank/flywheel trigger electronic
ignition system and/or rewire your lawn
& garden tractor, equipment or garden pulling tractor so all the electrical
accessories will work and the engine will start quickly every time. I have
the knowledge, skills, all the tools and parts necessary to perform a quality
job. I've rewired many customer's lawn & garden tractor/equipment or
garden pulling tractor with great results. If you're interested, my phone
numbers, address and directions to my shop are above
È. - Brian
Miller |
| NOTE: All parts listed here are NEW, unless otherwise stated.
I do not sell cheap junk! As a matter of fact, most OEM Kohler parts are
made in China now. Kohler owns some of the factories in China that make the
parts. And most aftermarket parts are also made by Kohler in China. Kohler
just place the part(s) in a generic box and sell them for less money. So
when purchasing a genuine OEM Kohler part that comes in a box with the Kohler
name on it, you're really just paying more money for the name. And as far
as some parts being no longer available - either the parts didn't sell well
or the EPA is trying to phase out parts for the old cast iron block flathead
engines because they produce more air pollution than the newer OHV
engines. |
 Ignition Points used on
Kohler, Tecumseh and Clinton engines. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91,
K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17, KT17
Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582 with magneto or battery
ignition (use with mounting bracket). Also replaces: Tecumseh part #'s 32011,
32011A, used on engine models HH80, HH100, HH120 with battery ignition (use
without mounting bracket); and Clinton engine models 414, 418, 420, 422 (use
without mounting bracket). NOTE: Apply lubricating grease on the hinge
pin before installing points so the hole will last longer. If it's dry, it'll
wear over time, effecting ignition timing, resulting in loss of engine
power.
-
High quality aftermarket points with mounting bracket. $9.00 each,
plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler points with mounting bracket, part # 47 150 03-S. $14.30
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Install Hex Socket (Allen) Head Cap Screw w/split lock washer (below
Ê) in points w/bracket above
È, add .50¢.
-
NOTE: The electronic transistorized ignition
modules (below) can be substituted for the points and condenser/capacitor
for a stronger and more stable spark, quicker starts, and virtually trouble-
and maintenance-free magneto ignition system.
 Hex Socket (Allen) Head Cap
Screw w/split lock washer to replace OEM slotted or Phillips head
adjustment/clamp screw in Kohler/aftermarket points for easier access with
a 9/64" hex (Allen) L-wrench (below Ê)
to accurately set ignition timing with less effort in hard-to-reach places
in small engine equipment when the engine sits lengthways (such as Cub Cadet)
and securely tighten screw so points will not slip out of adjustment. NOTE:
For aftermarket points, the threads may need to be recut with a 8-32 UNF
hand tap. And due to risk of stripping threads, do not over-tighten adjustment
screw! An original, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller.
Please accept no other advertised copycat products of this kind.
-
.50¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Install Hex Socket (Allen) Head Cap Screw w/split lock washer in points w/bracket
above È, add .50¢ to price
of points.
 9/64" Hex (Allen) L-Wrench.
Use with hex socket (Allen) head cap adjustment/clamp screw (above
È) in Kohler points to accurately set
ignition timing with less effort in hard-to-reach places (such as Cub Cadet)
and securely tighten screw so points will not slip out of adjustment. Wrench
measures 7/8" wide x 2-1/2" length. Made of high strength black alloy steel.
NOTE: Due to risk of stripping threads, do not over-tighten adjustment
screw!
-
$3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
   Screws and split
lock washers for mounting of ignition points and points cover. Phillips and
Socket Head (Allen) screws make for easier fastening of points and points
cover to engine block in hard-to-get places. Each: 10-24 UNC x 3/8" thread
length. Slotted head points and cover mounting screws TIP: When installing
a screw to keep it from falling out of the screwdriver, either apply a dab
of grease in the head of the screw or temporarily magnetize the screwdriver
by rubbing a magnet along the length of the shank.
-
Used and in excellent condition. Slotted head screw with integrated star
lock washer. Discontinued from Kohler. OEM Kohler part # X-131-1-S.
.25¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
-
New Phillips head and split lock washers. $1.00 per pair, plus shipping
& handling.
-
New Socket Head (Allen) cap screws and split lock washers. $1.00 per
pair, plus shipping & handling.
|
  GM (Chevrolet) V8 adjustable ignition points that can be used
on the Kohler K-series 10hp-16hp and twin cylinder flathead cast iron block
engines. NOTE: The "Chevrolet" ignition points are actually made for the
1959-'74 American Motors, 1957-'73 Buick, 1956-'73 Cadillac, 1965-'74 Checker,
1957-'73 Chevrolet, 1956-'73 GMC, 1957 Hudson, 1957-'74 International, 1966-'74
Jeep, 1957 Nash, 1956-'73 Oldsmobile, 1957-'73 Pontiac, and 1960-'66 Studebaker
vehicles with a V8 engine and Delco-Remy distributor. But these points can
be easily adapted for use on Kohler [pulling] engines with an adapter bracket
for easy adjustment of the ignition timing with an hex key (Allen) wrench.
Points have a stiff spring for quick response at high RPM. Due to the inability
to completely seal (cover) the points contacts from dust and debris, these
are for competition pulling only, and not for ordinary lawn & garden
equipment. And being the bracket for the GM points and the GM points themselves
are much larger than Kohler points and bracket, the OEM Kohler points cover
will not fit over the GM points and mounting bracket.
-
GM (Chevrolet) points only. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Stainless steel mounting bracket for Chevy points w/mounting screws. (Limited
supply.) Protective cover not available. $15.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
|
 Ignition Points. Fits Kohler
engine models K660 and K662 with WICO magneto ignition. NOTE: Apply
lubricating grease on the hinge pin before installing points so the hole
will last longer. When it's dry, it'll wear prematurely, effecting ignition
timing, resulting in loss of engine power. Discontinued from Kohler.
Replaces Kohler part # 240611-S. Also replaces Wisconsin part #'s 28-1AT-3076-ES,
X5996 and X6942.
-
High quality aftermarket. $16.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
NOTE: The Electronic Transistorized Ignition
Modules (below) can be substituted for the points and condenser/capacitor
for a stronger and more stable spark, quicker starts, and virtually trouble-
and maintenance-free magneto ignition system.
|
Condensers/Capacitors for battery powered ignition systems. Used on
Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331,
K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and
K582. Condensers/capacitors listed below
Ê includes clamp. NOTE: Use two standard
capacity (Kohler) condensers/capacitors or one high-capacity/performance
condenser/capacitor with a high-output/performance ignition coil so it will
produce full voltage. When using two condensers/capacitors, connect each
condenser/capacitor to the negative (–) terminal on the coil, or to
the wire going to the points, and make sure each condenser/capacitor is grounded.
And if an engine idles well, but runs erratically above idle, like it hits
and misses, pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs a new
condenser/capacitor. And always install a condenser/capacitor with the wire
or terminal facing down so rain water and/or when washing off engine, water
will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it.
Click here to hear what an engine
with a faulty condenser/capacitor sounds like.
-
Standard capacity condensers/capacitors. Designed to be used only with a
standard-output/stock ignition coil. Will not work with a high-output/performance
ignition coil or distributor-driven ignition system. Each measures: .665"
diameter x 1.250" length x 3-1/2" wire length.
-
High quality aftermarket. $5.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler condenser/capacitor part # 230722-S. $17.45 each, plus
shipping & handling.
-
High quality, heavy duty, high capacity/performance condenser/capacitor.
Designed for use with a high-output/performance ignition coil or
distributor-driven ignition system so engine can accelerate at high RPM.
Equivalent to ACCEL, Bosch, MSD and most other name brand high performance
condensers. Reuse OEM Kohler condenser/capacitor bracket where applicable.
Dimensions: .665" diameter x 1.250" length x 3-1/2" wire length.
-
$10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
 OEM Kohler Condenser/Capacitor
Clamp for high capacity/performance condenser/capacitor above
È when used on Kohler engine models
KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II. Has 1/4" mounting hole.
-
Used and in excellent condition. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
 MAGNETO Ignition
Condensers/Capacitors. (Most commonly used condenser/capacitor.) Used on
various Kohler engine models K141, K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331
and K341 with magneto ignition. Also used with Kohler engine models
KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II. Body length: 33 mm, width:
17 mm. Same capacity as condenser/capacitor below
Ê, except different mounting bracket.
NOTE: If an engine idles well, but runs erratically above idle, like it
hits and misses, pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs a new
condenser/capacitor. And always install a condenser/capacitor with the wire
or terminal facing down so rain water and/or when washing off engine, water
will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it.
Click here to hear what an engine
with a faulty condenser/capacitor sounds like.
-
High quality aftermarket. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 47 147 01-S. $23.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
NOTE: The Electronic Transistorized Ignition
Modules (below Ê) can be substituted
for the points and condenser/capacitor for a stronger and more stable spark,
quicker starts, and virtually trouble- and maintenance-free magneto ignition
system.
 MAGNETO Ignition
Condensers/Capacitors. Used on various Kohler engine models K90/K91 and K241
with magneto ignition. Same capacity as condenser/capacitor above
È, except different mounting bracket.
NOTE: If an engine idles well, but runs erratically above idle, like it
hits and misses, pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs a new
condenser/capacitor. And always install a condenser/capacitor with the wire
or terminal facing down so rain water and/or when washing off engine, water
will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it.
Click here to hear what an engine
with a faulty condenser/capacitor sounds like.
-
High quality aftermarket. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 220434-S. $17.30 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
NOTE: The Electronic Transistorized Ignition
Modules (below) can be substituted for the points and condenser/capacitor
for a stronger and more stable spark, quicker starts, and virtually trouble-
and maintenance-free magneto ignition system.
|
   Listed below
are the most common spark plugs for Kohler and other small engines. These
have a copper core, which help produce a stronger spark, plus they allow
the ignition coil to last longer. Spark plugs for other makes and models
of small engines are also available. When ordering, please specify make and
model of engine.
Quality Copper Core Spark Plugs for Kohler engine models K90/K91, most Briggs
& Stratton and small Tecumseh engines. Set gap .025" for magneto and
solid state ignition, and .035" for battery ignition. 14mm threads x 3/8"
thread reach, flat washer seat. Replaces Briggs and Stratton part # 802592S.
-
Autolite® 458. $2.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Champion® J19LM. $3.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 41 132 06-S. $7.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
 Quality Copper Core Spark Plugs for
Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181/M8, and cast iron block Tecumseh
engine models VH80, VH100, HH80, HH100, HH120, OH140, OH150, OH160 and OH180.
Set gap .025" for magneto and solid state ignition, and .035" for battery
ignition. 14mm threads x 3/8" thread reach, flat washer seat.
-
Autolite® 295. $2.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Champion® J8C. $3.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 41 132 02-S. $9.35 each, plus shipping & handling.
Quality Copper Core Spark Plugs for Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12,
K330/K331, K321/M14, K341/M16, K361, K482, K532 and K582. Set gap .025" for
magneto and solid state ignition, and .035" for battery ignition. 14mm threads
x 7/16" thread reach for stock OEM cylinder heads, flat washer seat.
-
Autolite® 216. $2.30 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Champion® 844 (H10C). $3.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 25 132 10-S. $11.10 each, plus shipping & handling.
 Quality Copper Core Spark Plugs
for Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K330/K331, K321/M14 , K341/M16.
14mm threads x 3/4" thread reach for machined billet cylinder heads,
flat washer seat.
-
Autolite® 4056. $2.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Champion® 120 (N5C). $2.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
 Quality Copper Core Spark Plugs
for Kohler twin-cylinder flathead engine models MV16, KT17, KT17 Series II,
KT19 and KT19 Series II, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Set gap .015" for battery
and solid state ignition. 14mm threads x 15/32" thread reach, tapered seat.
-
Autolite® 26. $3.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Champion® RV17YC. $3.65 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 52 132 02-S. $9.15 each, plus shipping & handling.
 Quality Copper Core Spark Plugs
for most makes and models of OHV aluminum block single- and twin-cylinder
air-cooled small engines. Set gap .025" for magneto and solid state ignition.
14mm threads x 5/8" thread reach, flat washer seat.
-
Autolite® 3924. $2.70 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Champion® RC12YC. $3.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 12 132 02-S. $6.10 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
 Spark Plug Grommet for Kohler
"Quiet Line" engine models K181AQS, M8, K241AQS, K301AQS, K321AQS and K341AQS.
Fastens directly on spark plug in air duct shield (sheet metal) over cylinder
head to help maintain cool air over the cylinder head. Made of neoprene rubber.
OEM Kohler part # 47 313 01-S.
-
$3.95 each, plus shipping & handling. Not available in
aftermarket. L
|
 Indexing Washers for 14mm Thread Flat Seat Spark Plugs.
Position spark plug in combustion chamber with open or exposed gap toward
the piston for more power and torque at high RPMs or wide open throttle.
Available in the following thicknesses: .012", .020", .025", .031", .047"
and .062". Made of steel.
-
$1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Indexing Washers for 14mm Thread
Tapered Seat Spark Plugs. Position spark plug in combustion chamber with
open or exposed gap toward the piston for more power and torque at high RPMs
or wide open throttle. Available in the following thicknesses: .010", .021"
and .032". Made of copper.
-
$1.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
 Points Cover Gasket. Fits
Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331,
K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and
K582. Protects points from dust, dirt and water contamination. OEM Kohler
part # 52 041 11-S.
-
$1.80 each, plus shipping & handling. Not available in
aftermarket. L
|
 Points Cover/Wire Grommet.
Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321,
K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II, K482,
K532 and K582. Protects points wire from chafing and prevents dust, dirt
and water from contaminating points. FYI:
RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant will serve the same
purpose. OEM Kohler part # 220297-S.
-
$3.55 each, plus shipping & handling. Not available in
aftermarket. L
|
 Points-to-Coil Primary Ignition
Wires w/Connectors and Grommet Assembly. For Kohler engines with battery-powered
ignition, models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331,
K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582.
For converting from Magneto ignition or Kohler's Breakerless Ignition to
conventional battery-powered points and condenser/capacitor ignition, or
replace OEM wire with frayed/cracked insulation and/or broken connector(s)
to prevent a short circuit and/or engine misfire.
-
High quality aftermarket. 10" length, 16 gauge stranded copper wire, crimp
connectors and OEM Kohler points cover grommet. For Kohler engine models
K482, K532 and K582. Replaces Kohler part # A-231533-S. $9.00 each,
plus shipping & handling.
-
For Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582. 17" length, 14 gauge stranded
copper wire, connectors and points cover grommet. OEM Kohler part # A-231533-S.
$14.85 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
High quality aftermarket. 14" length, 16 gauge stranded copper wire, crimp
connectors and OEM Kohler points cover grommet. For single cylinder Kohler
engines with coil located close to carburetor. $9.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
High quality aftermarket. 22" length, 16 gauge stranded copper wire, crimp
connectors and OEM Kohler points cover grommet. For single cylinder Kohler
AQS (Quiet Line) engines with coil located above starter motor. $9.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 47 125 01-S. 22" length, 14 gauge stranded copper wire,
connectors and points cover grommet. $17.55 each, plus shipping &
handling.
"Assemble It Yourself" Points to Coil Ignition Wire w/Connectors and Grommet
Kit. Includes cut to length 22", 16 gauge stranded copper wire, two connectors
and OEM Kohler points cover grommet.
-
High quality aftermarket. $5.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
|
 Points Cover without Kill
Button for Battery Ignition. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141,
K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 series
2, KT19 and KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582. Protects points from dust,
dirt and water contamination. For use with a remote ignition switch to kill
engine, such as garden tractors and other equipment. Made of 16 gauge stamped
steel. Not available in aftermarket. L
-
Used and in excellent condition. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
(When available.)
-
New. OEM Kohler part # 232535-S. $11.61 each, plus shipping &
handling.
|
 Points Cover with Kill
Button for Kohler engines with Magneto Ignition. Fits Kohler engine
models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341, K482, K532
and K582. Protects points from dust, dirt and water contamination. Push and
hold button in to kill engine. For use on self-contained, stand-alone engines
without a remote ignition switch to kill engine, such as garden tillers,
truck-mounted or portable air compressors, generator/welders, water pumps,
etc. Made of 16 gauge stamped steel. Discontinued from Kohler. OEM Kohler
part # A-220136-S. Not available in aftermarket.
L
-
Used and in excellent condition. $30.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. (When available.)
|
  Universal Loop-Type Throttle/Choke Cable Conduit/Wire Clamps.
Use to secure wire(s), battery cable, small hose (for
remote fuel primer), or cable
conduit to throttle or choke bracket or bundle of wires along frame for safe
routing. Each made of 16 gauge, zinc-plated steel, and requires 3/16" mounting
screw.
-
Single wire, throttle cable or small hose clamp. Our part # 03-249.
$1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Double wire, battery cable, throttle cable or small hose clamp. OEM Kohler
part # X-728-1-S. $1.25 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
 Universal Self-Grounding
ON/OFF Switches for Magneto (points and condenser/capacitor) or
Solid
State Ignition Systems. Very durable, tough switches. Each can be mounted
in metal (grounded) dashboard, instrument panel, engine control panel, engine
flywheel shroud, etc. Single blade on switch connects to points wire or solid
state module wire/terminal that kills the engine. Can be used on anything
that has points and condenser/capacitor magneto, solid state, or
solid state transistorized electronic modules, such
as: Kohler Magnum and Command engines, lawn mowers, lawn tractors, garden
tillers, go-karts, chainsaws, portable air compressors, generators/welders,
water pumps, etc.
-
Universal ON/OFF Toggle Switch. Comes with ON/OFF indicator plate. Requires
15/32" mounting hole. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # 223072-S.
$3.60 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Universal ON/OFF Key Switch. Use for security of equipment. Requires 5/8"
mounting hole. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
 Universal ON/OFF Switches
for Battery-Powered Ignition Systems. Each can be mounted in dashboard,
instrument panel, engine control panel, etc. Wires connect between battery
and ignition coil to supply power to and kill engine. Very durable, tough
switches. Can be used on anything that has a battery-powered ignition system,
such as: pulling tractors, mini-rods, hot-rods, garden tractors, farm tractors,
automobiles, etc. Or can be used as a magneto/solid state ignition kill switch
with one wire/terminal grounded and the other wire/terminal connected to
the coil or ignition module, but the ON/OFF indicator plate will be reversed.
-
Universal ON/OFF Toggle Switch. Comes with ON/OFF indicator plate and two
6" wire leads. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces
Kohler part # 238011-S. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Universal ON/OFF Key Switch. Use for security of equipment. Requires 15/32"
mounting hole. $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
 Push Button Switches. Use
each to crank engine or activate killswitch motor on pulling sled. Each Normally
Open; contact made when plunger is depressed. Use to crank over engine,
-
Light Duty 15 Amp Push Button Switch. Use as a safety switch, temporarily
power low amperage electrical accessories, such as light(s), etc., or use
with starter solenoid/relay to crank engine or to power kill switch motor
(on pulling sled). Requires 15/32" mounting hole. 2-1/8" overall length.
$9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Heavy Duty 20 Amp Push Button Switch. Starter solenoid/relay may be required
depending on application. Comes with two screws to connect between battery
positive (+) post and starter motor. Heavy wire terminals and minimum #8
gauge wire recommended. Requires 5/8" mounting hole. $14.00 each,
plus shipping & handling.
|
  High Quality Universal 3-Position OFF-IGNITION-START Key Switch
for use with Magneto w/Points and Condenser or Solid State Ignition
Systems. Use with a starter solenoid/relay to prevent burning out internal
contacts. Identification of terminals are as follows: B = Battery, M = Magneto,
S = Solenoid, L = Lights, G = Ground (grounded to body of switch). Key positions:
OFF = M+G; IGNITION = B+L; START = B+S. Each terminal identified for correct
wire connections. Use #250 crimp-type slip-on spade wire connectors on terminals
when connecting wires to switch. Requires 5/8" diameter mounting hole.
-
Our part # 55-1013. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
 High Quality Universal 3-Position OFF-IGNITION-START Key Switch
for use with Battery-Powered Points/Condenser or Crank/Flywheel Trigger
Electronic Ignition Systems. Use with a starter solenoid/relay to prevent
burning out internal contacts. Identification of terminals are as follows:
B = Battery, I = Ignition, S = Solenoid, R = Rectifier, A = Amp Gauge. Key
positions: OFF = no contact; IGNITION = B+I+R+A; START = B+I+R+S. Each terminal
identified for correct wire connections. Use #250 crimp-type slip-on spade
wire connectors on terminals when connecting wires to switch. Requires 9/16"
diameter mounting hole.
-
Our part # 430-249. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
  Points Pushrods for Kohler K-series
engine models K141, K160/K161 and K181. Replace worn points pushrod or install
a flared end points pushrod so ignition timing can be advanced to factory
setting of 20º BTDC. Each made of 304 stainless steel material. NOTE:
Used OEM pushrod to be no less than 1.265" in length and .184" in diameter.
Measure accurately to determine if need replacing.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 41 411 01-S. $5.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 41 411 01-S. $19.30 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Flared End Points Pushrod. Flared end makes contact with unworn sides of
points lobe on camshaft. Can also be used with an unworn lobe for longer
wear. Must be installed from inside crankcase. An original, ingenious
and innovative concept invented by Brian Miller. Please accept no other
advertised copycat products of this kind. Replaces Kohler part # 41 411
01-S. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
 Points Pushrods for Kohler K-series engine models K90/K91,
K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, K482, K532 and K582. Replace worn points pushrod
or install a flared end points pushrod so ignition timing can be advanced
to factory setting of 20º BTDC. NOTE: Used OEM pushrod to be no less
than 1.500" in length and .184" in diameter. Measure accurately to determine
if need replacing.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 46 411 01-S (aluminum).
$5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 47 411 04-S (stainless steel).
$5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 46 411 01-S (aluminum). $10.41 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 47 411 04-S (stainless steel). $14.91 each, plus
shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # X-489-8-S (aluminum; listed for K482, K532 and K582 engines).
$26.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Flared End Stainless Steel Points Pushrod. Flared end makes contact with
unworn sides of points lobe on camshaft. Can also be used with an unworn
lobe for longer wear. Must be installed from inside crankcase. Can be used
in Kohler engine models K90/K91, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, K482, K532
and K582. An original, ingenious and innovative concept invented
by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this part. Please accept no
other advertised copycat products of this kind. $15.00 each, plus
shipping & handling. Return to previous
paragraph or website.
|
 Oil-Embedded Sleeve Bushings to Repair Worn 3/16" Points Pushrod
Hole. The block will need to be precision-machined with a 1/4" (.250") reamer
for installation of these bushings. Comes with two 3/16" i.d. x 1/4" o.d.
x 3/8" length bushings. Two bushings required for total length of pushrod
hole.
-
$5.00 per two bushings, plus shipping & handling.
|
 Points
Pushrod O-Ring and Diaphragm Seal. For Kohler engines with a 3/16" diameter
points pushrod. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181,
K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, K482, K532 and K582. Prevents crankcase
oil from contaminating ignition points. O-ring installs on points pushrod,
and seal slides over pushrod, and diaphragm is held in place by points bracket.
Also used as part of the flywheel guard on various Kohler Magnum engine models
M10-M16. Seal made of clear, silicone rubber. IMPORTANT: Before installing,
apply clean motor oil, gear oil or lubricating grease inside seal lip or
on points pushrod for lubrication and to prevent premature wear of the seal.
Return to previous paragraph or
website.
-
(Choose to use one or the other below
Ê, no need to use both.)
-
Neoprene Rubber O-Ring. .50¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Diaphragm Seal. OEM Kohler part # 220074-S. $5.49 each, plus shipping
& handling. Not available in aftermarket.
L
|
| NOTE: The use of resistor-type spark plugs shortens the
life of most small engine magneto or solid state ignition coils. Therefore,
it's best to use a high quality spark plug with a copper core gapped at .025"
for single cylinder and V-twin engines, and .015" each for opposed twin cylinder
engines to prevent overheating of secondary windings within the coil and
possibly causing premature coil failure. Set the laminations to the flywheel
magnet clearance (air gap) at .010". And the easiest and most accurate way
to set the air gap is to use a business card, poster board, or part of the
box the new coil came in. These measure about .010" thickness. Place a strip
of the paper or box between the coil's laminations and magnet in the flywheel
and allow the magnet to pull the laminations to it, then tighten the coil
mounting screws securely. Also, when a coil goes bad, save the spark plug
wire(s) off the defective coil. These have a stranded metal core wire, and
with a
coil (distributor) terminal and
coil tower boot installed, it/they can be used on an engine
with a magneto, battery-powered or custom crank/flywheel trigger ignition
system. |
 Solid State Ignition Coil
with Integrated Module. Fits Kohler Magnum engine model M8. NOTE: Install
with spark plug wire facing engine block as shown in the picture to the right.
Set spark plug gap at .025".
-
High quality aftermarket. $61.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 41 584 03-S. $88.30 each, plus shipping & handling.
 Solid State Ignition Coil with
Integrated Module. Fits Kohler Magnum engine models M10, M12, M14 and M16.
NOTE: Install with spark plug wire facing engine block as shown in the picture
to the right. Set spark plug gap at .025".
-
High quality aftermarket. $60.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 47 584 03-S. $87.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
Solid State Ignition Coil with
Integrated Module. Fits Kohler Magnum opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engine
models MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. NOTE: Install with spark plug wires
facing outward. IMPORTANT: Set spark plug gap at .015" each for longer coil
life.
-
High quality aftermarket. $70.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 52 584 02-S. $141.00 each, plus shipping and handing.
|
Solid State Ignition Coil
with Integrated Magnetron™ Module. Fits Briggs and Stratton horizontal and
vertical shaft opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engines. IMPORTANT: Set spark
plug gap at .015" each for longer coil life.
-
High quality aftermarket. $30.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Briggs and Stratton part #'s 392329, 394891, 394988. $45.00 each,
plus shipping & handling.
|
 Magneto Ignition Coil. Fits
various Kohler engine models K141, K161 and K181 with coil mounted on U-shaped
ignition stator on bearing plate underneath flywheel with rotor w/magnet
on crankshaft. Will also fit
various larger cast iron block
Clinton engines with coil mounted above flywheel, on cylinder. Spark
plug wire not included. Dimensions: 1.750" diameter x 1.450" length x .505"
square hole. NOTE: The transistorized electronic
ignition modules (below) can be substituted for the points and
condenser/capacitor for a stronger and more stable spark, quicker starts,
and virtually trouble- and maintenance-free magneto ignition
system.
-
New Old Stock. Discontinued from Kohler. OEM Kohler part # 231718-S.
$133.35 each, plus shipping & handing. Not available in
aftermarket. L
NOTE: The magneto coil wrapped with varnish-coated paper (Kohler part
# 210293), and the stator assembly and rotor shown above are no longer available
from Kohler. If you have an engine without these parts and you can't locate
them from any source, your only option is to convert the engine to the battery
ignition system. A small
motorcycle battery or a rechargeable
12 volt sealed lead acid (SLA) battery with a minimum 4AH
(Amp Hour) rating will need to be required to power the ignition, and with
no charging system, a portable battery charger will need to be used to keep
the battery fully charged when the tractor is not in use so the ignition
will produce a strong spark. Avoid using a high-output/performance coil because
these draw more power from the battery. |
  Magneto Ignition Coil. Fits all Kohler engine models K91 with
magneto ignition. Spark plug wire (not included) inserts into coil. NOTE:
Usually, the point gap sets at .020", but sometimes it will need to be set
as close as .015" just to get a spark. This coil will work better when used
with a Universal Solid State Ignition Module (see below
). The short wire on the coil is for ground, the longer wire connects to
the points and condenser/capacitor or Universal Solid State
Ignition Module, and may need to be made longer depending on your
application. Dimensions: .500" x .500" square hole (across flats) x 1.700"
o.d. x 1.080" length. When installing, the coil must fit snug on the laminations
to receive the full effect of the magnetic field through the stator from
the rotating magnet(s) to fully energize the windings to create a strong
spark. If the laminations on your stator are too big for the hole in this
coil, they can be ground or filed smaller so the coil will fit snug, then
bend one laminate over to retain the coil. Or if the laminations are too
small, thin strip(s) of steel can be added as shim(s) so the coil will fit
snug. (Sometimes one must improvise to make replacement parts work.) Do not
attempt to enlarge the hole in the coil!
How
magneto coils produce a spark. NOTE: The
electronic transistorized ignition modules (below )
can be substituted for the points and condenser/capacitor for a stronger
and more stable spark, quicker starts, and virtually trouble- and
maintenance-free magneto ignition system.
-
High quality aftermarket. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part
# 220435-S. $52.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
 Universal Magneto Ignition
Coils for various engines with points, condenser/capacitor and coil under
the flywheel. For Kohler K-series flathead cast iron block, most smaller
aluminum block Tecumseh and Clinton engines with coil/ignition stator under
flywheel. Spark plug wire molded in coil. Spark plug wire length: 17". NOTE:
Usually, the point gap sets at .020", but sometimes it will need to be set
as close as .015" just to get a spark. This coil will work even better when
used with a Universal Solid State Ignition Module (see
below ). The short wire on the coil is for ground, the longer wire connects
to the points and condenser/capacitor, and may need to be made longer depending
on your application. Click here
for identification and wiring diagram for this coil. Dimensions: .400"
x .400" square hole (across flats) x 1.630" o.d. x 2.020" length (including
hump for spark plug wire). The coil must fit snug on the laminations to receive
the full effect of the magnetic field through the stator from the rotating
magnet(s) to fully energize the windings to create a strong spark. If the
laminations on your stator are too big for the hole in this coil, they can
be ground or filed smaller so the coil will fit snug, then bend one laminate
over to retain the coil. Or if the laminations are too small, thin strip(s)
of steel can be added as shim(s) so the coil will fit snug. (Sometimes one
must improvise to make replacement parts work.) Do not attempt to enlarge
the hole in the coil!
How
magneto coils produce a spark. NOTE: The
electronic transistorized ignition modules (below )
can be substituted for the points and condenser/capacitor for a stronger
and more stable spark, quicker starts, and virtually trouble- and
maintenance-free magneto ignition system.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part #'s 47 145 02-S, 47 755 20-S;
Tecumseh part #'s 29632, 30546, 30560, 30560A, 610768; Tecnamotor # 1633.0001;
Clinton # 135-13-990 and Phelon # FG-6240. $25.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
Listed for various K181, K241 and K301 models depending on engine specification
number. OEM Kohler part # 47 145 02-S. $132.25 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
Listed for various K181, K301, K321 and K341 models depending on engine
specification number. OEM Kohler part # 47 755 20-S. $137.00 each,
plus shipping & handling.
|
| Universal Solid State Electronic Ignition Modules
for Magneto Ignition Systems -
 
 
-
Upgrade the magneto ignition system on virtually any engine with the latest
technology! Do away with the points and condenser/capacitor, and install
a solid state ignition module. It should be the end of the ignition problems.
The points and condenser/capacitor is not to be connected to the coil or
module. They need to be removed from the engine and
plug the points pushrod hole (Briggs &
Stratton or Kohler engines).
-
There is absolutely no difference how these modules work. They all work the
same. Kind of like the difference between the Chevy, Dodge and Ford vehicles.
These are universal and high performance. They improve engine performance
by stabilizing the spark, much like
crank/flywheel trigger electronic
ignition does, except the detector/trigger target is the magnets
on or underneath the flywheel and the coil laminations. These modules have
a durable die-cast aluminum housing. They all produce a strong spark even
at cranking speeds, allows the coil to produce 100% voltage. Weather-proof
and very reliable. Ignition timing is automatically set. No kick-back and
no timing adjustment required. Works excellent with virtually any magneto
ignition coil!
-
Suitable for use with most 2 leg or 3 leg magneto coils and with a flywheel
having one or two magnets mounted internally or externally, and with coil
mounted underneath or outside of flywheel. Works great regardless of the
polarity of the magnets, too. Works on most lawn mowers, chain saws, trimmers,
garden tillers, snow throwers, brush cutters, various one or two cylinder
outboard boat motors, etc., with points and condenser/capacitor ignition.
But will not work with most Stihl trimmers and chain saws, or when the ignition
coil is energized by a generator that gets its power from the magnet in the
flywheel, such as various outboard boat motors. Usually, the coil don't need
replacing when substituting the points and condenser/capacitor with one of
these solid state ignition modules. If the engine ran, then the coil is obviously
good.
-
Works only with magneto type ignition coils originally connected to contact
points and a condenser/capacitor. They will not work with solid state ignition
(CDI) coils, battery ignition coils or with flywheels having a ring of magnets
mounted internally to which the ignition coil (mounted underneath flywheel
also) operates off of, such as the bigger aluminum block Tecumseh engines
(8hp and up). Engines can't start under full compression and with advanced
ignition timing. One or the other must be "suppressed" in order for the engine
to crank over without "kicking back" to start. Either it needs to have a
compression release to relieve about half the compression, then the compression
will return to full upon start up, or the timing needs to be positioned at
TDC, then it can automatically advance upon start up. (With the module, as
each magnet pass the coil, it'll produce a spark. And if the spark don't
occur at the precise time with the piston at a certain position in the cylinder,
the engine will either "kick back" or will not run.) "Kick back" occurs when
the crankshaft/flywheel suddenly and violently rebounds or rotates in the
opposite direction, which is could bend or break the starter armature shaft
or the aluminum starter housing. If the magnets for the charging system won't
interfere with the magneto coil(s), then these modules should work well.
But if the magneto coil(s) operate off the same magnets for the charging
system, then neither module won't work. The modules senses when the magnet
pass the coil and that's when it makes the spark. If a bunch of magnets
continually pass the coil, then the coil will produce an array of sparks.
-
How the timing is automatically set and how it works: First of all, with
points, the point gap determines where the ignition timing is set (on systems
with a fixed or non-adjustable ignition coil). Therefore, the spark occurs
when the magnet in the flywheel pass the coil laminations the moment the
points open. But with no points, the magnet still pass the coil laminations
at the same moment, which sends an electrical current through a transistor
and circuitry within these modules. This current is sent in the form of a
signal to the module; within, a transistor opens the primary circuit in the
coil and the spark occurs. All this happens at the speed of electricity,
which can be anywhere from about 50% to 99% of the speed of light, depending
upon the quality of the circuitry and wire connections. Either module provides
unlimited RPM. The conventional points and condenser/capacitor ignition system
is less responsive.
-
Each module has two wire connections. One wire connects to the ignition coil
and the other wire connects to the engine/chassis ground with use of a supplied
mounting screw. Scroll down for wiring
diagrams and installation instructions
Ê.
-
Solid State Ignition Module w/One Terminal. $17.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
Solid State Ignition Module w/Two Terminals. $20.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
OEM Kohler Solid State Ignition Module, part # 25 757 10-S. $56.87
each, plus shipping & handling. Return
to a previous page or paragraph.
Universal Magneto Solid State Transistorized Electronic Ignition Module
Wiring Diagram and Installation Instructions
Ê
These modules should work very well with most magneto ignition coils. However,
a new coil is recommended to use with this module. If a used coil is utilized,
a weak spark may occur. This module is not for use on engines equipped with
battery ignition, solid state ignition coils or multiple magnets under the
flywheel with ignition coil under the flywheel, too.
Aftermarket Module with One Terminal and OEM Kohler Modules -
Secure the modules with the self-tapping screw to the engine
sheet metal with good ventilation and air-flow and so each module is grounded.
Fasten the brass lever of the Kohler module with its mounting screw so the
lever will make contact with the center button on the module to kill the
engine.
Disconnect or cut-off the points and condenser (ignition) wire from the coil
(leave long). Connect this wire to the supplied long wire to the terminal
of the aftermarket module and to the kill switch, or connect the ignition
wire to the black wire on the Kohler module. Use the supplied wire nut to
connect the two wires together. Replace the blower housing (if removed),
crank the engine rapidly and check for spark at the spark plug's tip. If
no spark, recheck the wiring for proper or correct connections.
Aftermarket Module with Two Terminals -
 Use the supplied short wire with the female connector and ring
connector to connect to the negative terminal of the module to engine ground
with the supplied self-tapping screw. Secure the module with the self-tapping
screw to the engine sheet metal with good ventilation and air-flow.
Disconnect or cut-off the points and condenser wire from the coil (leave
long). Connect this wire to the supplied long wire to the positive terminal
of module and to the kill switch. Use the supplied wire nut to connect the
two wires together. Fasten the module to the sheet metal of the engine Replace
the blower housing (if removed), crank the engine rapidly and check for spark
at the spark plug's tip. If no spark, recheck the wiring for proper or correct
connections. |
  Points Pushrod/Plunger Hole
Plugs and Block-Off Plate. Use either of the items below
Ê to plug or block-off the points
pushrod/plunger hole in Briggs & Stratton or Kohler engines when doing
away with the points and condenser/capacitor, and converting engine for use
with a Universal Solid State Ignition Module,
crank/flywheel trigger electronic
ignition or from Kohler K-series ignition to Kohler Magnum solid
state ignition. Use needle-nose pliers to hold the plug and a small hammer
to tap it in the hole in the block. Fits very tight. For the block-off plate,
use RTV silicone sealant to prevent oil leaking and OEM points mounting screws
to secure in place. Cup plug no longer available from Kohler (25 139 51-S).
NOTE: Instead of using
any of these items, remove the points and points pushrod. Place the pushrod
on a flat, hard surface, and use a sharp cold chisel and hammer to lightly
create some knurled raised places on it. Then insert the pushrod in the block
and it may need to driven in with the hammer. The knurled places will retain
the pushrod in the block. An original, ingenious and innovative
concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise these for use on a
Kohler engine. Please accept no other advertised copycat products of this
kind..
-
3/16" Plug. Fits all single cylinder Kohler K-series and K482, K532 and K582
opposed twin cylinder engines. OEM Briggs & Stratton part # 692882.
$6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
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17/64" Plug. Fits Briggs & Stratton opposed twin cylinder engines, and
can be used for Kohler opposed twin cylinder engine models KT17, KT17 series
2, KT19 and KT19 Series II with points pushrod hole drilled-out (enlarged)
to 17/64" (.2656") diameter x .3/8" deep for this plug to fit snug. OEM Briggs
& Stratton part # 231262. $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Block-Off Plate. Made of 1/8" steel. A-1 Miller part. $4.00 each,
plus shipping & handling. Return
to previous page or paragraph.
|
   Two Wire Semiconductor
Diodes. Either can be used to excite or energize field windings in a
belt-driven automotive
alternator or direct-drive 120/240 AC volt portable generator when powered
by a small engine so alternator/generator will produce electricity as
soon as engine starts. Can also be used as a rectifier in a small engine
3 amp non-regulated stator alternator charging system to convert alternating
current (AC) to direct current (DC) to recharge the battery and/or power
low-amperage electrical accessories. Not needed to power lights or an electric
PTO clutch.
-
High quality aftermarket. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Briggs & Stratton part # 393814. $6.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
Diode kit. OEM Kohler part # 25 755 31-S. $12.52 each, plus shipping
& handling.
|
 AC Voltage Meter/Monitor.
Designed to plug into any 120 volt wall receptacle/outlet, backup house generator
or portable generator to provide a continuous, accurate reading of the AC
line voltage. Use this meter to set the engine governored speed so generator
will produce 120 volts to prevent from under-powering or over-powering electrical
equipment.
-
$21.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
| Ignition Coils. NOTE: Most failures
of battery ignition coils is caused by overcharging of the electrical system
due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive]
battery. Or the use of aged and deteriorated suppression/carbon core spark
plug wire and/or an old resistor-type spark plug will also cause a good coil
to eventually fail because the secondary windings within the coil must build
up more voltage, which cause the windings to overheat and eventually burn
up from producing excessive voltage to fire the plug. Therefore, if it's
not already equipped, it's best to install an amp gauge
to keep an eye on the charging system.
High Quality Canister-Type 6
Volt Ignition Coil w/1.0 ohm internal primary resistor. Use in 6 volt ignition
system with points/distributor ignition (automotive, farm tractor, etc.)
or crank/flywheel trigger electronic ignition
with the high-output/performance GM HEI electronic ignition control module/unit
(ICU) , metal core spark plug wire and non-resistor/copper core spark plug
gapped at .025" for a strong spark. $25.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
High Quality Canister-Type Standard-Output 12 volt Ignition Coils w/1.5 ohm
internal primary resistor. Use with points/distributor ignition (automotive,
farm tractor, etc.) or can be used with A-1 Miller's custom
crank/flywheel trigger electronic ignition systems.
Set spark plug gap at .035" with this coil.
-
Used and in excellent condition 1.5 ohm coil with mounting bracket.
$10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
New 1.5 ohm coil without mounting bracket. (Reuse OEM bracket.) $15.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
New 1.5 ohm coil with mounting bracket. $25.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
High Quality Canister-Type Standard-Output 12 volt Ignition Coils w/3.0 ohm
internal primary resistor and mounting bracket. Use on small engines (Kohler,
Tecumseh, etc.) with points and one standard capacity condenser/capacitor
to prevent excessive burning of points contacts for general lawn & garden
work or can be used with A-1 Miller's custom
crank/flywheel trigger electronic ignition systems.
Set spark plug gap at .035" with this coil.
-
Used and in excellent condition 3.0 or 4.0 ohm coil with mounting bracket.
$15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
New 3.0 ohm coil. Replaces Kohler part # 41 519 21-S. $25.00 each,
plus shipping & handling.
Standard-Output 12 volt Ignition Coil w/3.0 ohm internal primary resistor
and with mounting bracket. OEM Kohler part # 41 519 21-S; replaces John Deere
part # AM38411, Tecumseh part # 32080. $88.61 each, plus shipping
& handling.
High-Output/Performance 12 Volt, 30,000 Volt Output
Bosch Blue Ignition Coil w/3.0 ohm internal
primary resistor and mounting bracket. Vibration-Resistant Epoxy-Filled.
Use with points and two standard capacity condensers/capacitors or one high
capacity/performance condenser/capacitor for full
coil saturation and
a strong spark so engine will accelerate to full speed, or can be used with
A-1 Miller's custom crank/flywheel trigger electronic
ignition system. Set spark plug gap at .035" with this coil. This genuine
Bosch blue coil is epoxy filled with a steel casing. All epoxy filled or
molded epoxy coils will hold up to severe vibrations, can be mounted in any
position and will not leak oil (because there is no oil). $55.00 each,
plus shipping & handling.
 Special Size Stainless Steel
Nut for small terminals on 99% of canister-type ignition coils. Replace a
lost nut, no need to purchase a new coil. Includes split lock washer. Use
with 5/16" or 8mm socket. .30¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
 Brass Ignition Coil Terminal.
Fits female coil tower. No need to purchase a new complete spark plug wire.
Center prong installs into metal-core or suppression/carbon-core conductor
of spark plug wire. No need to strip the insulation and bend the center conductor
over for contact. .50¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
Straight  Ignition Coil Boot.
No need to purchase a new complete spark plug wire. Install easily on 7mm
size spark plug wire with WD-40, motor oil, gear oil or lubricating grease.
High quality neoprene rubber.
-
Fits 5/8" diameter female coil tower. .75¢ each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
Fits 3/4" diameter female coil tower. .75¢ each, plus shipping
& handling.
|
New
1.6 Ohm Ballast Resistor for use with any 12 volt ignition coil not having
an internal resistor (above È) to prevent
excessive burning of points contacts, or use with the Chrysler / Dodge /
Plymouth electronic ignition control module/unit (ICU) , or connect with
coil having a 1.2 ohm internal primary resistor to prevent burning up the
Dynatek Dyna S or PerTronix Ignitor ignition
control sensor/modules. Install between the coil positive (+) terminal and
wire coming from the ignition switch to the coil. This will allow the points
to possibly last the life of the engine. NOTE: Ignition resistors with
a higher ohms value are known as "Points
Savers." The higher the ohms primary resistance in an ignition coil or a
ballast resistor has, the longer the ignition points will last (as long as
the points are installed clean, and doesn't become contaminated with dust,
oil, water, etc.). Any 12 volt ignition coil with a 3.0 ohm internal primary
resistor connected to a minimum 1.6 ohm ballast resistor when used in a points
and condenser/capacitor ignition system will allow the points to possibly
last the life of the engine. Because the increased resistance allows a very
low current/voltage to pass through the contacts in the points. The ignition
system will still produce a strong spark because an average small engine
requires only a fraction of voltage from the coil. This is best to used with
general lawn & garden, snow removal, etc., and not for competitive
pulling. Return to previous
section.
-
$8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
 Battery Ignition Coils and
Spark Plug Wires specifically for Kohler twin cylinder engine models KT17,
KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II. But can also be used on Kohler twin
cylinder engine models K482, K532, K582, K660/K662, Onan twin cylinder engines
or Harley-Davidson motorcycles with a fabricated bracket. Each coil below
has 4.0 ohm internal primary resistor. Can be used with points and condenser
or A-1 Miller's custom crank trigger ignition system. Use copper core spark
plugs and set spark plug gaps at .025" for each coil. NOTE: Most failures
of battery-powered ignition coils is caused by overcharging of the electrical
system due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive]
battery will cause a good coil to eventually fail because the secondary windings
within the coil overheat and eventually burn up from producing excessive
voltage to fire the plug(s). Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's
best to install an amp gauge to keep an eye on the
charging system.
-
 High quality universal 20,000 volt, 4.0 ohm
primary windings epoxy encapsulated ignition coil with dual metal core spark
plug wires. Coil dimensions: 4" overall length including mounting bracket
x 2-1/8" body width x 15" low tension wires x (2) integrated 24" length spark
plug wires (can be shortened if desired). $40.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
High quality universal chrome-plated 20,000 volt, 4.0 ohm primary windings
oil filled ignition coil with dual metal core spark plug wires. Includes:
(1) dual tower chrome-plated ignition coil, (2) rubber spark plug wire grommets,
(2) plastic thread-on coil boots, (2) 90º spark plug boots w/terminals,
and (2) 18" length spark plug wires (can be shortened if desired). Coil
dimensions: 4-1/4" length (excluding towers) x 2-1/8" body width x 2-1/4"
tower end band width. Replaces Kohler part # 52 755 48-S. $84.00 each,
plus shipping & handling.
-
High quality aftermarket 20,000 volt, 4.0 ohm primary windings epoxy encapsulated
ignition coil with metal core spark plug wires. Replaces Kohler part # 52
755 48-S. $118.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler coil with spark plug wires; part # 52 755 48-S. $250.71
each, plus shipping and handing.
Spark Plug Wires for above È coils.
NOTE: Most OEM Kohler metal core spark plug wires rarely lose resistance,
resulting in a weak spark. The only time they need replacing is when damaged
beyond use. All spark plug wires can be checked
for resistance with an analog or digital multimeter.
-
11" length. (for #2/left cylinder when facing flywheel.) OEM Kohler part
# 52 348 03-S. $18.66 each, plus shipping & handing.
-
19" length. (for #1/right cylinder when facing flywheel.) OEM Kohler part
# 52 348 04-S. $20.27 each, plus shipping & handing.
|
High Quality, Molded Epoxy,
Battery-Powered Ignition Coils for Kohler twin cylinder engine models K482,
K532, K582, K660/K662 and Harley-Davidson motorcycles. But can also be used
on Kohler twin cylinder engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19
Series II or Onan twin cylinder engines with a fabricated bracket. Can be
used with points and condenser or A-1 Miller's custom
crank/flywheel trigger electronic ignition system.
NOTE: Coil mounting bracket not included - discontinued from Kohler; if
needed, new mounting holes can be drilled through Harley coil's laminations
next to existing holes to match the holes in OEM mounting plate, or new holes
can be drilled in the OEM mounting plate to match the holes in the Harley
coil. And there is no positive (+) or negative (–) connections on
the two small terminals. They can be connected either way. And most failures
of battery-powered ignition coils is caused by overcharging of the electrical
system due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive]
battery will cause a good coil to eventually fail because the secondary windings
within the coil overheat and eventually burn up from producing excessive
voltage to fire the plug(s). Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's
best to install an amp gauge to keep an eye on the
charging system.
-
High quality aftermarket 12 volt Harley-Davidson coil with 5.0 ohm internal
primary resistor; 20,000 volt output; suitable for use with points and standard
capacity condenser/capacitor or crank/flywheel trigger
electronic ignition. Part # 31609-65A. $55.00 each, plus shipping
& handing.
-
High quality aftermarket 12 volt Harley-Davidson coil with 3.0 ohm internal
primary resistor; 30,000 volt output; suitable for use with points and high
capacity condenser/capacitor or crank/flywheel trigger
electronic ignition. Part # 31609-80. $55.00 each, plus shipping
& handing.
-
OEM Kohler Coil, part # 277375-S. $242.15 each, plus shipping and
handing.
Spark Plug Wires for Kohler engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and
KT19 Series II, K482, K532, K582, K660/K662, or Onan twin cylinder engines.
-
For K482, K532 and K582 engines with battery ignition. (Unknown length.)
OEM Kohler part # 48 348 04-S. $21.65 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Complete 7mm Diameter Spark
Plug Wires with connectors and boots for above
È coils. NOTE: Most OEM Kohler and
metal core spark plug wires rarely lose resistance, resulting in a weak spark.
The only time they need replacing is when damaged beyond use. All spark plug
wires can be checked with an analog or digital
multimeter. Also, certain spark plug wires below
Ê don't have the terminal and boot for
the coil installed. Each spark plug wire needs to be safely routed from the
spark plug to the coil, allow some length for flexibility, and may need to
be cut off if excessively long. Then install the boot on the wire that fits
your coil best, strip off about 1/2" of insulation, bend the wire over, install
the terminal over the wire and on the insulation, then lightly crimp the
terminal with pliers. The squeezing pressure of the terminal in the coil
tower ensures the wire will stay in the receptacle.
-
 90º Spark Plug Boot and
Terminal Kit. No need to purchase a new complete spark plug wire. Prong in
terminal penetrates center metal-core or suppression/carbon-core conductor
of spark plug wire. No need to strip the insulation and bend the center conductor
over for contact. Install easily on 7mm size spark plug wire with WD-40,
motor oil, gear oil or lubricating grease. $1.20 each kit, plus shipping
& handling.
-
Brass Ignition Coil Terminal.
Fits female coil tower. No need to purchase a new complete spark plug wire.
Center prong installs into metal-core or suppression/carbon-core conductor
of spark plug wire. No need to strip the insulation and bend the center conductor
over for contact. .50¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Straight Ignition Coil Boot.
No need to purchase a new complete spark plug wire. Install easily on 7mm
size spark plug wire with WD-40, motor oil, gear oil or lubricating grease.
High quality neoprene rubber.
-
Fits 5/8" diameter female coil tower. .75¢ each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
Fits 3/4" diameter female coil tower. .75¢ each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
High quality aftermarket suppression/carbon core spark plug wires. These
work great with battery ignition for ordinary lawn & garden equipment,
the spark plug will still receive a strong spark and should last a long time.
Each come with terminals, angled spark plug boot and straight coil boot.
For the size of the coil boot, please specify if your coil has a 5/8" or
3/4" diameter center tower. Not for use on Kohler engine models KT17, KT17
Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II, K482, K532 or K582 due to possible coil
failure.
-
13" length. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
22" length. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
High performance stranded metal core spark plug wires. Each rated at zero
ohms resistance entire length. 25-1/2" length. Don't be fooled by the gray
color, this wire provides 100% voltage to the spark plug! Can be used for
Kohler engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II, K482,
K532 and K582 (with wires cut to OEM length), or for competition pulling.
Comes with terminals, one angled spark plug boot, one straight and one angled
coil boot. Replaces Kohler part # 238057-S. $10.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
For Kohler engine models K90 through K361, K482, K532, K582 and K660/K662
with battery ignition. OEM Kohler part # 238057-S. $35.60 each, plus
shipping & handling.
-
For K90 through K361 engines with battery ignition. (Unknown length.) OEM
Kohler part # 41 348 06-S. $19.10 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
For K90 through K361, K482, K532, K582 engines with battery ignition. (Unknown
length.) OEM Kohler part # 48 348 03-S. $26.30 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
For K482, K532 and K582 engines with battery ignition. (Unknown length.)
OEM Kohler part # 48 348 04-S. $21.65 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
 Complete
Battery-Powered Ignition Conversion Kits - When Kohler's OEM magneto
or Breakerless Ignition fails, the engine can be converted to a battery-powered
ignition system. Battery-powered ignition systems last longer, produces a
stronger spark, and when a part goes bad, it doesn't cost much to replace.
It's a reliable, simple design and there's no guesswork about it. FYI:
Battery-powered ignition conversion kits are intended mainly for various
older engines when the OEM magneto or Breakerless Ignition no longer produce
a spark, replacement parts are not available or are very expensive (cost
prohibitive). Also, the most hassle when using battery-powered ignition without
a charging system integrated with the engine to recharge the battery is the
use of a remote battery charger. And eventually a new battery will need to
be purchased, because they only last a few years. For a battery to power
the ignition, a small, lightweight and rechargeable
12 volt sealed lead acid (SLA) battery with a minimum 4Ah
(Amp Hour) rating or a small
motorcycle battery can be used.
Click here for
battery-powered ignition wiring diagrams.
Single Cylinder (Flathead) Engines - Convert from Magneto Ignition to
Battery-Powered Ignition. Convert virtually any single cylinder, air-cooled
cast iron or various aluminum block small gas engine, such as Kohler, Tecumseh,
Briggs & Stratton, etc., that originally came with a magneto ignition
system (having points, condenser/capacitor and ignition coil that has voltage
generated by a permanent magnet in the flywheel, instead of being powered
by a battery or a self-generating charging coil) into a battery-powered ignition
system. Kit includes: new standard-output (20,000 volt) 3.0 ohm canister
ignition coil w/mounting bracket, new battery-ignition condenser/capacitor,
22" length 16 gauge coil-to-points wire w/grommet and terminals and 22" length
suppression/carbon core spark plug wire. NOTE: Must use a
universal automotive start/ignition key switch, or an ON/OFF
toggle- or key-switch to power the ignition and a push-button switch to crank
the engine. Reuse existing ignition points, but set gap at .020" or set ignition
timing at 20º BTDC, and reuse same type of spark plug, but set gap at
.035" for a stronger spark. See wiring diagram below
Ê.
-
Kit with all high quality aftermarket parts. $44.50 per kit, plus
shipping & handling.
-
Kit with all OEM Kohler parts. $153.55 per kit, plus shipping &
handling.
 Convert from Breakerless
Ignition to Battery-Powered Points and Condenser Ignition for Kohler engine
models K181, K241, K301 or K321. (K341 and K361 engines originally did not
come with Breakerless Ignition.) Instead of replacing defective
cost-prohibitive Breakerless Ignition components, convert your engine to
the inexpensive, low-cost and reliable points and condenser/capacitor ignition.
Kit includes: new standard-output (20,000 volt) 3.0 ohm canister ignition
coil w/mounting bracket, new ignition points, new condenser/capacitor, 22"
length 16 gauge coil-to-points wire w/grommet and terminals, points pushrod,
points cover, points cover gasket and four 10-24 UNC screws. Use the same
OEM spark plug wire and ignition switch that came with the tractor or equipment.
NOTE: Use a pointed #6
self-tapping sheet metal or drywall screw and a
mini nail puller pry bar to remove the brass block-off
plug from points pushrod hole. Do not force the screw into the plug or the
plug could go inside the crankcase! Just gently thread it in a few threads,
that's all it takes to pull the plug out. But if the engine block has a Briggs
& Stratton points plunger plug, the plug can be removed by using a
mini nail puller pry bar as well. May need to use a hammer
to drive the wedge under the head of the plug to get a good grip on it to
pull it out. And if there seems to be no movement for opening and closing
of the points, there may be some metal flashing blocking the points pushrod
hole where the factory didn't drill all the through the hole. Because all
Kohler engines with Breakerless Ignition have the camshaft with the points
lobe. Only the Magnum engines have the cam without the points lobe. After
this is remedied, set points gap at .020" or set ignition timing at
20º BTDC, and reuse same type of spark plug, but set gap at .035" for
a stronger spark. See wiring diagram below
Ê.
IMPORTANT: The wire that comes from the stator
under the flywheel for Kohler Trigger Module or Tecumseh Solid State Ignition
Module generates about 250 volts while the engine is running at full governored
speed (serious). Do not touch this wire (terminal) with one bare hand and
the engine itself with your other hand while the engine is running! It is
not needed for any of my crank/flywheel trigger ignition systems. So snip
off this wire or tape up the terminal to prevent a short circuit or
electrocution.
-
Kit with high quality aftermarket parts. $64.00 per kit, plus shipping
& handling.
-
Kit with OEM Kohler parts. $170.78 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
|
 Universal
15 and 20 Amp Gauges / Ammeter Kits. Install one of these gauges to know
exactly what the charging system on your engine is doing. Having an amp gauge
installed is very important in monitoring the charging system to prevent
premature failure of electrical components. By the time you smell something
burning or see smoke, it may be too late. If the charging system continues
to charge (+) with no gradual "falling back" to zero on the gauge (if installed),
this will send too much voltage to the battery, which could eventually burn
up the cells, or the ignition coil, which could eventually burn up the primary
windings. Overcharging of the electrical system could also burn up the electronic
ignition control module/unit (ICU) (crank/flywheel
trigger), burn out light bulbs, electric PTO clutch and any other electrical
accessories. Gauges registers up to 15 or 20 amps of charge, depending on
total output amperage of stator or alternator. As battery becomes fully charged,
needle slowly moves from positive side (+) to zero (0). If no charge goes
to the battery, needle will stay on negative side (–). Easy 2-wire
connections. Connect the positive (+) terminal on back of gauge to the battery
positive (+) post, and connect the negative (–) terminal on back of
gauge to the wire going to the ignition switch that provides power to the
ignition and all accessories. If the wires/connections are reversed, and
if the charging system is in good working condition, the gauge will show
discharge (–) instead of charge (+). Use minimum 12 gauge stranded wire.
Non-lighted gauge. Requires 2" diameter mounting hole and comes with mounting
clamp and nuts. 30 amp gauge kit discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler
part # 48 755 18-S. Return to previous
section.
-
15 Amp Gauge / Ammeter Kit. Requires 2-1/4" diameter mounting hole.
$19.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
20 Amp Gauge / Ammeter Kit. Requires 2-1/16" diameter mounting hole.
$22.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
How to Accurately Set the [Point] Ignition Timing on
Virtually Any Gas Engine - Top of page
First of all, widening or narrowing of the points gap is how the ignition
timing is adjusted. Widening the gap advances the timing and narrowing it
retards the timing. On a Kohler engine, adjust the points by first positioning
the piston at TDC on the compression stroke. Then slightly loosen the set
screw on the points and place the flat screwdriver in the slot on the upper
part of the points bracket to widen and narrow the point gap. Then use a
.020" feeler gauge to set the gap. If the screw that fastens the points to
the bracket is hard to get at with a screwdriver on the equipment, then install
a socket head (Allen) head screw and use an angled hex key (Allen) wrench
to loosen and tighten the screw that clamps the points in place. Delayed
acceleration of the engine indicates either low compression, or the ignition
timing is retarded and not set at 20º BTDC.
Engines can't start under full compression
and with advanced ignition timing. One or the other must be "suppressed"
in order for the engine to crank over without "kicking back" to start. Either
it needs to have a compression release to relieve about half the compression,
then the compression will return to full upon start up, or the timing needs
to be positioned at TDC, then it can automatically advance upon start up.
On engines with a camshaft having an automatic compression release (ACR),
the ignition timing cannot be advanced more than approximately 25º BTDC.
If it is, the spark will occur when the exhaust valve opens slightly (to
relieve the compression), and the engine may not start or be hard to start.
It may pop out the carburetor instead. If the timing needs to be set more
than 25º BTDC (for methanol fuel), the ACR will need to be removed from
the camshaft, and to make the engine easier to crank over and start under
full compression, a high torque gear starter, heavy [steel] flywheel, along
with separate starter and ignition switches will need to be used to prevent
"kick back" when attempting to start the engine. If an engine "kicks back"
too many times when attempting to start it, this could bend or break the
OEM Kohler starter motor armature shaft, or break the aluminum casing! The
same thing can happen to an automotive starter!
The point gap on virtually all 4-cycle small gas engines, rather if it has
one or two cylinders, is set at .020" using a feeler gauge with the piston
positioned at TDC on the compression stroke. This is when the valves (#1
cylinder for a twin cylinder) are fully closed. This sets the ignition timing
approximately at 20º BTDC (Kohler engines), and is the most easiest
and simplest way to basically set the timing. A better way is to
statically (engine not running) set the timing. But the most accurate
way is use an automotive strobe timing light to dynamically set the
timing. The timing light connects to the battery and spark plug wire.
To statically (engine not running) set the ignition timing on an engine
with points, condenser/capacitor and a stock flywheel, use an
ohmmeter (d) (make sure the
battery is fully charged) or a battery-powered
test light in the points only (the points will act as a
switch). To make this happen...
-
Connect one lead of the ohmmeter
or test light to the ignition points terminal screw or the points wire
(disconnect it from the ignition coil first) and the other lead to engine/chassis
ground so that the points will serve as a switch to activate the meter or
light. To test the connection, set the points gap at .020" with a feeler
gauge, then slowly rotate the crankshaft (flywheel) back and forth when the
points open and close to see if the meter is activated or light comes on
and goes off. IMPORTANT: Do not use sandpaper or emery cloth to clean
points contacts! These will leave a gritty residue between the contacts,
causing a faulty connection. A thin, steel points file or steel fingernail
file is the only way to thoroughly remove any debris or oxidation from points
contacts. Then use
electrical contact cleaner,
brake cleaner or cleaning solvent (paint thinner) and
150± psi compressed air to clean any oil and metal filings from the
points contacts.
-
On Kohler flywheels, there should
be a T and an S stamped on the outer
edge of the flywheel. Clean the area off, and use a
Sharpie metallic silver permanent marker or a
paint marker to place a brightly colored mark on the
S mark [punched line] so it can be easily seen with the
naked eye and with an automotive inductive timing light. The timing light
connects to the battery and spark plug wire. T stands for
TDC, which is 0º TDC. This is where the ignition timing sets if the
engine is equipped with an older two-piece camshaft with a rotating automatic
timing advance mechanism (points lobe). And S stands for
Spark Advance, which is 20º BTDC. This is where the timing sets if the
engine is equipped with a one-piece camshaft that came with an automatic
compression release (ACR) mechanism. If there's a timing site hole in the
rear of the bearing plate, then the timing marks are on the backside of the
flywheel. If the marks can't be seen, then the flywheel will need to be cleaned
off and depending on type of camshaft, a brightly colored mark needs to placed
at the T (older two-piece camshaft w/automatic timing advance) or
S mark (newer one piece camshaft w/automatic compression release).
If there is no visible S mark, then it's located exactly
1-5/8" (1.625") above or before the T mark. Billet steel
flywheels with no timing marks must be degreed-in with a degree wheel and
piston stop to create new timing marks.
-
Slowly rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand, and when the timing mark
on the flywheel (S for ACR camshaft or T for
two-piece camshaft) is aligned with the center of the site hole or raised
mark on the bearing plate and at the same time, observe the ohmmeter (make
sure the battery is fully charged) or battery-powered test light. The ohmmeter
should show an intermittent connection or the test light should flicker.
If necessary, widen or narrow the point gap until the points make contact
the exact moment the timing marks are aligned. It is at this position when
the ignition timing is accurately set. No further adjustments is required.
-
Timing for gas fuels can vary from 20º-22º BTDC for low octane;
100% automotive gas, to 30º BTDC for high octane race gas, aviation
gas, or automotive gas w/10% alcohol.
-
Timing for E-85 - 25º BTDC.
-
Timing for
METHANOL fuels -
if the spark plug is positioned in the center of the combustion chamber,
set the timing at 24-26º BTDC. If the plug is located closer to the
exhaust valve, the timing needs to be set around 30º BTDC. And if the
plug is directly over the exhaust valve, the timing needs to be set at 38º
BTDC to obtain full power. 38º BTDC is the maximum setting for methanol
or gas fuels.
-
It'll be a good thing to check the ignition timing periodically as the points
contacts wear.
-
Engines can't start under full compression
and with advanced ignition timing. One or the other must be "suppressed"
in order for the engine to crank over without "kicking back" to start. Either
it needs to have a compression release to relieve about half the compression,
then the compression will return to full upon start up, or the timing needs
to be positioned at TDC, then it can automatically advance upon start up.
On engines with a camshaft having an automatic compression release (ACR),
the ignition timing cannot be advanced more than approximately 25º BTDC.
If it is, the spark will occur when the exhaust valve opens slightly (to
relieve the compression), and the engine may not start or be hard to start.
It may pop out the carburetor instead. If the timing needs to be set more
than 25º BTDC (for methanol fuel), the ACR will need to be removed from
the camshaft, and to make the engine easier to crank over and start under
full compression, a high torque gear starter, heavy [steel] flywheel, along
with separate starter and ignition switches will need to be used to prevent
"kick back" when attempting to start the engine. If an engine "kicks back"
too many times when attempting to start it, this could bend or break the
OEM Kohler starter motor armature shaft, or break the aluminum casing! The
same thing can happen to an automotive starter!
The most accurate way to
set the ignition timing is dynamically. This is with the engine running
and an automotive strobe timing light. The timing light connects to the battery
and spark plug wire. Connect the timing light (if it has an adjustable degree
wheel, set it at 0º), then start the engine. With the engine running
at idle speed, shine the timing light through the site hole in the flywheel
shroud to see the painted "S" mark on the flywheel and the raised
mark on the bearing plate. When the marks are perfectly aligned, this is
when the timing is set exactly at 20º BTDC. This cannot be done
on an aftermarket steel flywheel or [starter] pulley on the PTO end of the
crankshaft with no timing marks.
The ignition timing greatly depends on where the spark plug is located in
the combustion chamber. Most plugs are centered in the combustion chamber.
But if it's closer to the exhaust valve, the timing must be advanced slightly
more. Location of the spark plug in the combustion chamber and proper ignition
timing are two things that's very important in engine performance. Actually,
it's best to set the timing with some test pulls or with the engine connected
to an engine
dynamometer.
Setting the Ignition Timing with an Automotive Non-Inductive or Inductive
Strobe Timing Light -
NOTE: The above È method is sufficiently
accurate and useful in building a fresh engine and not having to mess with
adjusting the points just to get the engine started for the first time. However,
after getting the engine started, it's always a good thing to use either
an automotive non-inductive or inductive strobe timing light to check to
see if the timing is set exactly where it's supposed to be. The timing light
connects to the battery and spark plug wire. This is called setting the timing
dynamically. Use a timing light when the timing marks on both the bearing
plate and flywheel are perfectly aligned. The ignition timing setting for
Kohler engines burning GAS is 20-22º BTDC. NEVER run over-advanced
timing (beyond the 22º setting) with gas just to try to get "more power"
out of an engine! All that'll do is seriously overheat the engine and ruin
parts. Return to previous paragraph
or website.
To use a non-inductive strobe timing light (these are very old and are considered
obsolete because they produce a dim light), connect one lead on the spark
plug itself (on a twin cylinder engine, connect it on the #1 cylinder spark
plug) and connect the other lead on the coil, then start the engine.
To use an inductive strobe timing light, the engine can be running while
connecting the clamps on the battery posts in their respective order, then
connect the inductive pickup on the spark plug wire. On a twin cylinder engine,
connect it on the #1 cylinder spark plug wire. (The #1 cylinder is the one
closest to the flywheel.) If using an inductive strobe timing light with
an advance adjustment, make sure it's set at 0 (zero) before setting the
timing at the S mark.
Engines can't start under full compression and with advanced ignition timing.
One or the other must be "suppressed" in order for the engine to crank over
without "kicking back" to start. Either it needs to have a compression release
to relieve about half the compression, then the compression will return to
full upon start up, or the timing needs to be positioned at TDC, then it
can automatically advance upon start up. If an engine has a compression release
on the camshaft and the valve clearance is set right (at least for the exhaust
valve), chances are the engine will not "kick back" when attempting to start
the engine. "Kick back" occurs when the crankshaft/flywheel suddenly and
violently rebounds or rotates in the opposite direction, which is could bend
or break the starter armature shaft or the aluminum starter housing. Therefore,
this would be a false indication that the timing is set correctly. Always
check it with a timing light to make sure!
The ignition on Kohler engines aren't like the ignition on most automotive
engines. You don't dwell-in the points on a Kohler engine. Instead, you set
the point gap at .020" as the initial setting just to get the engine running.
Then the ignition timing is set by widening or narrowing the points gap until
the timing is at 20º BTDC by observing the alignment timing marks on
the flywheel.
NOTE: If the ignition timing is set right and the engine kicks back when
trying to start, sometimes, but not always, the compression release isn't
releasing enough compression from the combustion chamber. Try setting the
valve clearances to specs and see if that makes a difference. If the timing
is retarded to reduce the possibility of kickback, then the engine will run
sluggish and not produce enough power.
Return to previous paragraph or
website.
Isn't it a pain having to constantly adjust or set the ignition
timing on a Kohler pulling engine? To fix this problem, I think the best
ignition points to use for a Kohler pulling engine are ordinary Kohler points.
The spring on Kohler points is much stiffer than the one on the GM (Chevrolet)
V8 ignition points. I realize that Chevy points are fancy to show off and
convenient because they make it so much easier to adjust the ignition timing,
but due to normal engine vibrations on a single cylinder engine, they're
prone to get out of adjustment. And it's difficult (if at all possible) to
lock the adjusting screw in position. If [blue] Loctite is used, this would
make them non-adjustable. The adjustment/clamp screw on Kohler points on
the other hand, locks the points in position and they will not slip and get
out of adjustment whatsoever due to normal single cylinder engine vibration.
Also, unlike Chevy points, Kohler points are much easier to cover with the
use the OEM Kohler points cover to keep the contacts clean and to prevent
a fire.
Another simple way to set the ignition timing is to use a dial indicator
to measure the distance of the piston from the top of the block. On the K241
(10hp) Kohler engines, the points just begin to open when the piston is located
exactly at .125" BTDC. And on the K301 (12hp), K321 (14hp), K341 (16hp) flathead
engines and K361 (18hp OHV) engines, the points just begin to open when the
piston is located exactly at .100" BTDC. Distances shown is when the S mark
on the flywheel is aligned with the mark on the bearing plate. Take into
consideration if the piston doesn't come flush with the top of the block,
or if it protrudes out of the cylinder. EXCEPTION: When
setting the ignition timing on an older Kohler engine with the
old style two-piece camshaft,
set the points so they just begin to open with the piston positioned on the
compression stroke at 0º TDC (T mark on the flywheel). As soon as the
engine starts, the points lobe rotates on the cam pin and flyweights on the
cam gear automatically advances the timing to 20º BTDC. Don't set the
initial timing at 20º BTDC (S mark) with the old style two-piece camshaft.
Due to the absence of a compression release (these engines start under full
compression), setting it at 20º BTDC will advance the timing too much
and cause the engine to "kick back" when attempting to start the engine.
"Kick back" occurs when the crankshaft/flywheel suddenly and violently rebounds
or rotates in the opposite direction, which is could bend or break the starter
armature shaft or the aluminum starter housing.
How To Read A Dial Indicator -
Each mark on
the face of a dial indicator represents one thousand of an inch (.001")
graduations. The marks with a number (10, 20, 30, etc.) represents every
ten thousands (.010"). Depending on the size of the engine, for a reading
of .050" or .070" BTDC, first, run the piston up at true TDC, then set the
dial indicator at the .050" or .070" mark. Then, slowly rotate the crankshaft
in opposite of normal engine rotation until the needle reads 0 degrees BTDC.
The needle will move in the counterclockwise 
direction (back to the 0 degree mark) as the piston moves downward in the
cylinder.
Where
is the Timing Site Hole in the Flywheel Shroud?
On the small [8"] flywheel without the starter ring gear and with the
starter/generator, the timing site hole is on the right when facing the front
of the flywheel, or on the same side as the starter/generator. But on the
large [9-1/2"] flywheel with the starter ring gear and gear starter, the
timing site hole is on the left when facing the front of the flywheel, or
on the same side of the carburetor.
To set the ignition timing on the 7hp and 8hp Kohler engines, there's a sight
hole in the backside of the bearing plate on the starter/generator side,
just behind the flywheel. It has a metal hole cover plug in it. Remove the
plug, then slowly rotate the flywheel by hand until you see the S
mark. Place a white paint mark on the line. Now connect an automotive strobe
timing light, start the engine and note if the mark appears midway in the
sight hole. If not, adjust the points until the mark is centered in the hole.
This is how you set the ignition timing with a timing light. The timing light
connects to the battery and spark plug wire.
It is recommended that a steel flywheel be degreed in on an engine to locate
true TDC. Mark the flywheel every 5 degrees out up to 35 degrees BTDC. NOTE:
With a steel cam and ground-on point lobe, do not correlate points gap with
engine timing – there is a range from approximately 10 degrees BTDC
to 40 degrees BTDC! Use a continuity tester to set points to desired ignition
timing by gapping points.
Ignition timing must be properly set for any engine for it to produce full
power. Ignition timing is set according to when the piston reaches its Before
Top Dead Center (BTDC) position in the cylinder on the compression stroke.
When measuring the piston distance, take in consideration if a
piston protrudes out of the cylinder or if
it doesn't come flush with the top of the block. And don't trust strange
markings on the flywheel.
For precise accuracy, use an
ohmmeter (d) (make sure the
battery is fully charged) or a battery-powered
test light in the points only (the points will act as a
switch), a dial indicator to measure the distance of the piston in the cylinder,
fasten a degree wheel to the crankshaft flywheel end and you'll need to fabricate
a piston stop. On a flathead engine, to serve as a piston stop, a long reach
spark plug can be used, and the cylinder head must be positioned so the spark
plug is over the piston.
Tools Needed to Accurately Set the Ignition Timing - FYI -
A dial indicator, degree wheel and piston stop are also used in
degreeing in the
camshaft.
Degree Wheel
The
degree wheel is a round disc (usually made of aluminum)
with the facing edge marked off in degrees, similar to the markings on a
protractor. When used in conjunction with a dial indicator,
it's installed on the crankshaft during the engine build to degree the cam
in and check for correct valve timing events. It can also be used to check
for accurate ignition timing. When in use, a degree wheel is fastened to
the front of the crankshaft (automotive engines) or flywheel end (small engines).
If it's fastened to the PTO end, it will need to face the engine block and
be read from that position. Degree wheels can be purchased off of
eBay. |
Dial Indicator and Magnetic Base
A
dial indicator is necessary to check for correct valve
timing to tell precisely when a valve starts to open and the moment it closes.
This opening and closing is very critical for high performance engines and
cannot be done by feel or by sight. A dial indicator can also be used to
set accurate ignition timing in relation to piston
travel. Each mark on the face of a dial indicator represents one thousandth
of an inch (.001") graduations. The marks with a number (10, 20, 30, etc.)
represents every ten thousandths of an inch (.010", .020", .030", etc.).
A dial indicator always mounts on top of the engine block. Dial indicators
are very precision and delicate instruments. Care must be used in handling
one. Dial indicators can be purchased from
LittleMachineShop.com. |
Piston Stop Tool
 A piston stop tool is used to
accurately find the piston's true Top Dead Center (TDC) in the engine block.
The piston stop tool is always used on the #1 piston, which is closest to
the flywheel on a multi-cylinder air-cooled engine, and closest to the front
of an automotive engine.
As far as I am aware of, a deck-mounted, flat bar piston stop cannot be purchased
from any source. One will need to be made from scratch. To use a very simple
piston stop for a flathead engine, if the spark plug is perpendicular (at
a 90º angle) with the head, a long-reach (long threaded) spark plug
can be used in the head to serve as the bump-stop. Adjustment of the spark
plug is used to "stop" the piston. Simply position and fasten the head on
the block with a couple of bolts with the plug over the piston. The spark
plug can be adjusted up or down to find true top dead center of the piston
in relationship with the degree wheel.
 A blunt-end (not to damage the
piston) steel rod may need to be welded on the end of the plug for an extended
reach. If a piston pops out of the cylinder at TDC, then install flat washers
as needed so the head will clear the piston at TDC.
For a universal deck-mounted, flat bar type of piston stop, the bar should
be made of minimum 1/4" thick x 1" wide flat steel or aluminum, drilled with
a couple of holes so that it can be fastened to the top of the block with
a couple of head bolts, directly over the piston. A minimum 1/4" bolt with
a thin jam nut, is threaded in the bar to serve as the bump-stop. Adjustment
of the bolt is used to "stop" the piston. If a piston pops out of the cylinder
at TDC, then install flat washers as needed so the bar will clear the piston
at TDC.
 To check and adjust the cam
or ignition timing on an OHV (Over Head Valve) engine with the cylinder head
installed on the engine block, a low-cost and simple bump-stop piston stop
tool can be made from a
14mm spark plug non-fouler. (Spark plug non-foulers are
used in automotive engines that burn/consume a lot of oil to help prevent
oil-fouling of the spark plugs.) To convert a spark plug non-fouler into
a bump-stop for a piston stop...
-
Acquire a 3/8-24 UNF full-length threaded rod (All-Thread) of the appropriate
length depending on depth of combustion chamber and depression in piston.
-
Drill through the non-fouler with a 21/64" drill bit.
-
Cut threads through
the non-fouler with a 3/8-24 UNF tap.
-
Weld a "T" handle on the end of the threaded rod to rotate it up and down
in the non-fouler.
-
Place a thin jam nut and flat washer on the threaded rod, insert the threaded
rod through the non-fouler to serve as the bump-stop.
-
To use, the non-fouler will need to be tightened in the head, then the bolt
can be adjusted for piston travel in relationship with the degree wheel.
|
With an aftermarket steel flywheel or a stock flywheel with no timing marks,
the most accurate way to set the ignition timing [on virtually any engine]
is performed by measuring the distance of the piston before it reaches top
dead center with a dial indicator in conjunction with a degree wheel fastened
to the crankshaft flywheel end. To learn more, read on....
Find TRUE Top Dead Center (TDC) on an Engine with a Steel Flywheel to
Accurately Set the Ignition Timing! Parts needed are a
degree wheel and a
piston stop. Or on a flathead
engine, a long reach spark plug can be used, and the cylinder head can be
positioned it so the spark plug is over the piston.
-
Connect the ohmmeter or test light as described above
È.
-
Remove the cylinder head from the engine.
-
Fashion a rigid pointer from stiff wire or an old coat hanger and attach
it to the engine block. This pointer locates the degrees on the degree wheel.
-
With a degree wheel installed on the flywheel or PTO end of the crankshaft,
and with the flywheel fastened onto the crankshaft, rotate the crankshaft
by hand in normal running rotation until the piston at the very top of the
cylinder with both valves fully closed (this is the Top Dead Center position
on the compression stroke), and adjust the pointer to zero (0º TDC)
on the degree wheel.
-
Now turn the crankshaft opposite the running rotation approximately
15-20 degrees. Install a piston stop on the top of the engine block fastened
in place by two head bolts. NOTE: If a piston protrudes out of the cylinder
at TDC, then to use a piston stop, you'll need to install several flat washers
or a spacer between the piston stop and engine block so the piston will clear
it and go past the TDC mark.
-
Continue to turn the engine in the same direction until the piston comes
back up and just touches the piston stop. Make a note of the exact
number on the degree wheel that the pointer is on.
-
Rotate the engine in the other direction (running rotation) until the piston
comes back up and touches the piston stop. Again note the number where the
pointer is.
-
Remove the piston stop and rotate the crankshaft to the midpoint of the two
marks. At this point the piston is at the true top dead center. Loosen
the degree wheel and adjust it so it will read 0º TDC at the pointer.
Don't rotate the crankshaft to do this!
-
Slowly rotate the engine in reverse normal rotation. The test light should
be on. If not, adjust the points so it is on.
-
Rotate the crankshaft by hand
in its normal direction until the degree wheel is where you want the timing
to be set at (20º), then adjust the points so they just begin
to open. The test light should've gone off or flickered by now. If not, set
the points so they just start to open and the light flickers. Once
the degree wheel is in the proper position, the breaker points should
just begin to open. Or, when using
crank/flywheel trigger ignition, check or set
the initial timing by positioning the center of the magnetic
pickup coil or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor with the center of the
detector/trigger target, rather if it's a small magnet, screw, pin, projection
(hump) on the edge of a flywheel or on a rotating disc. It is at this moment
when spark occurs. And it's at this point that the ignition timing is set
correctly. Mark the flywheel or front pulley where the timing marks are on
the degree wheel for setting the timing with an automotive inductive strobe
timing light in the future. The timing light connects to the battery and
spark plug wire.
Magnetic pickup coils and proximity
sensors are very sensitive to mechanical damage (and electrical damage if
connected wrong). For magnetic pickup coils,
set the air gap/clearance from the detection/trigger target (screw, pin or
small raised area on the rotating disc) at .010"-.060" with a brass, plastic,
business card, poster board, stainless steel (anything non-magnetic) feeler
gauge. And being 3-wire inductive proximity sensors
have a farther detection range, set the air gap/clearance at .010"-.188".
If the gap is wider than specified with either sensor, the engine could have
no spark or misfire at higher RPM. To prevent the possibility of an out of
time spark occurrence, the detector target needs to be a minimum of 3/16"
higher than or above the circumference surface of a steel or cast iron rotating
disc or flywheel. Direct metal contact with either sensor could damage them.
When in doubt if a sensor is mechanically damaged, look at the end
of it with the strong magnifying glass to see any damage. If it is damaged,
it needs to be replaced. A magnetic pickup coil can be tested with
a digital multimeter set on 200m DC, with the negative lead of the meter
on the white wire of the pickup coil and positive lead on the black wire,
then pass a small steel screw or bolt over the end of the magnetic pickup
coil. If the meter shows a reading, the pickup coil is in good
condition.
How 3-Wire Inductive and Hall Effect Proximity Sensors Work -
The 3-wire inductive and hall
effect proximity sensors requires external power and function with three
wires: BLUE (power +),
BROWN (power +) and BLACK (signal).
Proximity Sensors are a like a switch and a small generator. They come in
two versions: Normally Open (N/O) and Normally Closed (N/C). FYI - PNP and
NPN has absolutely nothing to do with whether the sensor is normally open
(N/O) or normally closed (N/C). I.E. A PNP sensor may be either N/O or N/C,
as can an NPN be either N/O or N/C. Anyway, Normally Open is the same as
when a mechanical switch is turned off. In other words, the circuit is open
or disconnected, and no power is supplied to the electronic ignition control
module/unit (ICU) . And Normally Closed is the same as when a mechanical
switch is turned on. The circuit is closed or connected, and power is supplied
to the electronic ignition control module. A normally open proximity sensor
produces electrical current to the ignition module only when it comes in
close proximity of a detectable ferrous metal (steel or cast iron) object,
then the circuit is closed (LED sensor comes on). Proximity Sensors can only
generate electricity when they come in close proximity of a small or narrow
detectable iron-based ferrous metal object that a magnet can stick to. They
will not work with non-magnetic metals, such as: aluminum, brass, copper,
stainless steel, titanium, etc. Normally open proximity sensors are used
mainly for crank/flywheel
trigger electronic ignition systems on gas engines. 3-wire inductive
proximity sensors also work somewhat like metal detectors; if the metal comes
close enough to the sensor, with a normally open proximity sensor, the alarm
will sound. But a normally closed sensor works opposite.
The "inductive" proximity sensors can only detect iron-based metal objects
that a magnet can stick to. They will not work with non-magnetic metals,
such as: aluminum, brass, stainless steel, titanium, etc. And the "hall effect"
proximity sensors can only detect the presence of a magnetized metal object,
such as the head of a ferrous metal steel screw fastening a magnet to a disc
or flywheel. Proximity sensors produce electrical current to the module at
all times (LED sensor goes off) while external power is supplied to it except
when it comes in close proximity of a detectable ferrous metal object, then
the circuit is opened (LED sensor comes on). Some proximity sensors have
an LED (Light Emitting Diode) on the rear of unit. If the proximity sensor
is wired incorrectly, the LED will stay on and go off when activated. Proximity
sensors are used mainly in places where security is needed. They can be used
for exterior windows or doors in a secured building. When a window or door
with a detectable ferrous metal object is moved away from the sensor, the
circuit will be closed and an alarm will sound and/or lights will come on.
Also, when a normally open proximity sensor is used with
electronic crank/flywheel trigger ignition, the
wider the gap in the rotating disc, the longer the duration of the spark,
which makes for a more thorough burning of the fuel. It's almost impossible
to tell the difference between a normally open and normally closed sensor
just by looking at them because they appear to be identical. If a 3-wire
inductive proximity sensor has no markings or indications to show that it's
a normally open (N/O) and normally closed (N/C), a 100% sure way to determine
the type, is read the label on the sensor (may need to use a strong magnifying
glass), or test it with the wires connected in a circuit as shown in the
drawings further down in this website. Ê
Click here for more information:
Proximity
Sensor - YouTube.
Using a Proximity Sensor and Ignition control Module
to Power an LED or Light Bulb - (added 8/19/17)
A proximity sensor cannot only
be used with crank/flywheel trigger ignition, but they can also be used to
illuminate an LED (Light Emitting Diode) or low-amp (maximum 2 amp) 12 volt
filament light bulb. When a mechanically-operated push-button switch is subject
to a lot of moisture, dirt and debris (such as the switch for a brake light
and/or safety indicator light on a pulling sled), which can clog up the plunger
in the switch and damage or corrode the internal contacts, and cause it to
malfunction, a proximity sensor can take its place because they're completely
sealed, making them dirt and water proof. For the proximity sensor work with
an LED or light bulb, it will need to be used with an ignition control module,
such as the ordinary/stock GM HEI module. The LED or light bulb connects
in place of the ignition coil. All LED's have a positive (+) and negative
(–) wires. The positive wire (usually red in color) connects to the
B terminal on the module, and the negative lead connects to the
C terminal. And the two wires on the light bulb can connect either
way to B and C. Also, two separate proximity sensors, one used
for a brake light and the other for a safety indicator light, and one module
can be used to power one LED or one low-amp light, but both proximity sensors
must be either Normally Open or Normally Closed. One will not work with the
other with the same module.
How Magnetic and Non-Magnetic Pickup Coils Work -
A magnetic pickup coil works like a normally open proximity sensor. Magnetic
pickup coils have two wires, are self-generating and require no external
power. They can only generate electricity when they come in close proximity
of a small or narrow detectable iron-based ferrous metal object that a magnet
can stick to. They will not work with non-magnetic metals, such as: aluminum,
brass, copper, stainless steel, titanium, etc. And a non-magnetic pickup
coil also have two wires, are self-generating and require no external power.
They can only generate electricity when it comes in close proximity of a
small or narrow detectable magnet or magnetized metal object, such as the
head of a ferrous metal steel screw fastening a magnet to the edge of a disc
or flywheel. Click here for more information:
Magnetic Pickup Coil - YouTube.
Magnetic pickup coils and proximity
sensors are very sensitive to mechanical damage (and electrical damage if
connected wrong). For magnetic pickup coils,
set the air gap/clearance from the detection/trigger target (screw, pin or
small raised area on the rotating disc) at .010"-.060" with a brass, plastic,
business card, poster board, stainless steel (anything non-magnetic) feeler
gauge. And being 3-wire inductive proximity sensors
have a farther detection range, set the air gap/clearance at .010"-.188".
If the gap is wider than specified with either sensor, the engine could have
no spark or misfire at higher RPM. To prevent the possibility of an out of
time spark occurrence, the detector target needs to be a minimum of 3/16"
higher than or above the circumference surface of a steel or cast iron rotating
disc or flywheel. Direct metal contact with either sensor could damage them.
When in doubt if a sensor is mechanically damaged, look at the end
of it with the strong magnifying glass to see any damage. If it is damaged,
it needs to be replaced. A magnetic pickup coil can be tested with
a digital multimeter set on 200m DC, with the negative lead of the meter
on the white wire of the pickup coil and positive lead on the black wire,
then pass a small steel screw or bolt over the end of the magnetic pickup
coil. If the meter shows a reading, the pickup coil is in good
condition.
How to set the [point] ignition timing on the aluminum block flathead
Tecumseh engines - Top of page
First of all, on virtually any spark-ignition engine, advancing or retarding
of the ignition timing is performed by widening (advancing the timing) or
narrowing (retarding the timing) the ignition point gap, and on all Tecumseh
engines with points/condenser ignition, this is performed by rotating the
ignition stator (the aluminum part the points, condenser/capacitor and coil
are fastened onto) one way or the other. On all aluminum block flathead Tecumseh
engines, the entire ignition system is located under the flywheel. (There
is no points lobe on the camshaft.)
-
 Use a feeler gauge to set the
ignition points at .020" with the end of the plastic lever points arm is
on the highest side of the rubbing block (points lobe) in alignment with
the arrow (6). And make sure the feeler gauge,
points contacts and rubbing block are absolutely clean of dirt or debris,
too! Also, it's important to apply a small amount of motor oil on the lubricator
felt or a dab of lubricating grease on the rubbing block to prevent the plastic
actuator lever from wearing, which will eventually retard the ignition timing,
resulting in hard starting and loss of engine power.
-
To set the ignition timing, with the cylinder head removed, for all Small
Frame Tecumseh engines (up to the small block 5hp; including all walk-behind
lawn mowers, certain midsize snowblowers, garden tillers, etc.), rotate the
crankshaft in normal rotation (clockwise
when facing the flywheel) until the piston is positioned at .070" BTDC. For
all Medium Frame Tecumseh 5hp [medium size block] and 6hp cast iron and aluminum
block engines, position the piston at .050" BTDC. And for the Medium Frame
Tecumseh 7hp, 8hp and 10hp aluminum block engines, position the piston at
.090" BTDC. To set the piston at the correct distance in the cylinder,
use a dial indicator or use a large flat washer of either .050", .070" or
.090" thickness placed on top of the piston with the washer flush with the
edge of cylinder deck.
-
With the piston set at the correct distance in the cylinder (do not disturb
the rotation of the crankshaft), slightly loosen the two stator retaining
bolts, and rotate the stator by hand JUST when the points begin to open.
It is at this point when spark occurs. Do not rotate the crankshaft to do
this! You can visually see when the points begin to open. For a more accurate
setting, use a multimeter set on the Ohms (d)
resistance (make sure the battery in the multimeter is fully charged) or
use a battery-powered
test light in the points, with the points acting as a switch
to turn the light off and on.
-
When the timing is correctly set, securely tighten the stator bolts.
NOTE: If the ignition timing is set correct and the engine kicks back
upon starting, sometimes, but not always, the compression release mechanism
on the camshaft isn't releasing enough compression from the combustion chamber.
When this happens, try setting the valve clearances to specs (.008" intake
/ .010" exhaust) and see if that makes a difference. If the timing is retarded
to reduce the possibility of kickback, then the engine will be hard to start,
run sluggish and not produce adequate power.
 To install a
solid state electronic magneto ignition module on a
small and medium frame Tecumseh engine without a charging stator and
ring of magnets under the flywheel, the ignition points will need
to be installed as described above only to set the stator in the correct
position for the ignition timing, and then the solid state ignition module
can be installed.
If the stator mounting bolts are loosened and the stator is rotated for any
reason, the setting of the timing with the points as described above will
need to be repeated. Therefore, it's best to place a scribe mark made with
a wide-blade cold chisel against the edge of the stator housing and one or
both of the raised bolt bosses on the engine block. This way, the stator
can be reinstalled with the chisel mark(s) aligned and the timing will be
set correctly. But if the original stator is replaced with one from another
engine, the setting of the timing with the points will need to be repeated
|
How to Fix the Problem with a Worn Points Lobe
on a Kohler Camshaft -
Sometimes the points lobe on a single cylinder Kohler camshaft will become
worn or have a groove worn in it so badly that the ignition timing can't
be advanced enough so the engine will produce adequate power. There's a way
to fix this, and there's no need to purchase another camshaft or do welding
on the points lobe. Simply install a stainless steel nut on the points
pushrod. A plain steel nut could cause wear to the outer unworn areas of
the lobe. Anyway, the nut will make contact with the outer unworn areas of
the lobe, allowing full advancement of the timing as if the lobe wasn't worn
at all. To fix the problem with a worn points lobe...
-
Completely disassemble the engine and remove everything from inside the
crankcase.
-
Acquire a short, non-magnetic
stainless steel 10-24 UNC or 10-32 UNF (thread size) x 3/8" (wrench
size) hex nut. A stainless steel nut is hard, yet slicker than plain steel,
which allows it to slide against the points lobe more smoothly, lessening
wear to the outer unworn areas of the points lobe.
-
Cut very short threads on one end of the pushrod so the nut will be
perpendicular
to the rod. To maintain correct pushrod length, cut the length of the
threads the same thickness of the nut.
-
Install the nut on the points pushrod. The nut is threaded onto the pushrod
and jammed where the threads end. And if you're concerned about the nut coming
off the pushrod while in use, well, it'll be impossible for it to come off
because for one thing, the nut will be jammed tight against the short threads
on the pushrod. And if preferred, use
high strength liquid threadlocker
(Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent) to secure
the nut even better.
The length of Kohler engine models K90/K91,
K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, K482, K532 and K582 points pushrod is 1.500"
minimum and 1.550" maximum (new). And the length of Kohler engine models
K141, K160/K161 and K181 points pushrod is 1.260" minimum and 1.265" maximum
(new). As long as it's anywhere between these two measurements, the points
should adjust and work fine. If either pushrod is too short, the points contacts
won't open enough or at all, and the rod will need to be replaced with a
longer one. But if either pushrod is too long, the points' contacts won't
touch and the rod will need to be shortened. So measure accurately before
(re)installing! The diameter of each pushrod is minimum .184" and .1875"
(3/16") maximum (new).
-
On the K141, K160/K161 and K181 engines, the nut will need to be reduced
in diameter (in a small metal lathe), and the inside of the block will need
to be ground away for clearance of the nut.
-
Remember that the pushrod must be inserted from inside the block before
the camshaft is reinstalled!
-
The nut on the pushrod or a flared end points
pushrod can also be used for an unworn lobe, for longer wearing of the
lobe.
-
See image below Ê for a better
understanding of this.
If
doing the above È doesn't help to advance
the timing quite far enough (for gas and especially methanol fuel), grinding
(and polishing) of the lobe may need to be done. Grind about .050" deep in
the surface just before the lobe (see drawing to the right) and about
1/2" from the lobe to right next to the lobe, but not on the lobe itself!
A die grinder with a porting stone works excellent for doing this. After
doing this, the timing can then be advanced as far as 50º BTDC!
When advancing the ignition timing past
24º± BTDC, and if the camshaft has an automatic compression release,
it will need to be removed because the spark will occur when the exhaust
valve opens slightly to relieve some of the compression, preventing the engine
from starting. And to make the engine easier to crank over and start under
full compression, a high torque starter motor with separate starter and ignition
switches to prevent "kick back" will need to be used. "Kick back" occurs
when the crankshaft/flywheel suddenly and violently rebounds or rotates in
the opposite direction, which is could bend or break the starter armature
shaft or the aluminum starter housing.
To keep crankcase oil from
contaminating the ignition points on a Kohler engine is to install a new
[stainless steel] points pushrod and/or if the hole in the block is slightly
worn, install a small, snug-fitting neoprene rubber O-ring on the points
pushrod. Place the O-ring on the outside [of the block] and close to the
engine block. The oil will travel out to the O-ring and drip off, staying
off the points. But if the points pushrod hole is excessively worn, this
will effect the ignition timing as well, and the block will need to be machined
for installation of a bronze sleeve bushing, or the hole can be plugged,
and solid state or
crank/flywheel trigger electronic
ignition installed.
Another way to keep crankcase
oil from contaminating the ignition points on a Kohler engine, install an
OEM Kohler Diaphragm Seal. It's made of clear,
silicone rubber, slides over the pushrod, and is held in place by the points
mounting bracket. IMPORTANT: Before installing the seal, apply clean motor
oil, gear oil or lubricating grease inside seal lip or on points pushrod
for lubrication and to prevent premature wear of the seal.
Ignition System Options - Top of page
If a Kohler K-series engine originally came with points and
condenser/capacitor ignition, and you're looking for a more reliable and
maintenance-free ignition system, well, you have these options...
-
If the engine has magneto ignition,
do away with the points and condenser/capacitor, and install a
Universal Solid State Electronic Ignition
Module.
-
If the engine has battery-powered ignition with points and condenser/capacitor,
install an ignition coil with a 3.0 ohm internal primary resistor connected
to a minimum 1.6 ohm ballast resistor. The points contacts should then last
the life of the engine.
-
Install the ignition and related components off of a Magnum engine. The parts
needed are: Magnum bearing plate, starter motor, flywheel w/fins, flywheel
shroud and solid state ignition coil (the Magnum ignition system is very
similar to Briggs & Stratton's Magnetron™ ignition). If the engine has
battery ignition, a different ignition switch will be required, one that's
for magneto/solid state ignition because the Magnum ignition coil needs to
be grounded to shut off the engine, and is not powered by the battery/electrical
system.
-
Install the flywheel trigger
electronic ignition setup as described in this website. Install a
small "bump", a detector/trigger target (screw, pin, or multiple pins for
a multi-cylinder engine) made of hardened steel (to resist stretching due
to high RPM centrifugal force), 1/4" in diameter on the edge of the flywheel
to trigger the ignition. On a K-series flywheel, the bump or pin is for detection
of the sensor, will need to be a 3/8" (wrench size) x 3/16" thread diameter
hardened steel hex head bolt (screw), and must be set at 20º BTDC for
correct ignition timing (for gas). To prevent the possibility of an out of
time spark, the detector target needs to be a minimum of 3/16" higher than
or above the circumference surface of a steel or cast iron rotating disc
or flywheel. Use the two mounting hole bosses that's at the
10:00 position in the bearing plate (originally for mounting of Kohler's
Breakerless Trigger unit) to fasten a fabricated steel bracket to mount the
sensor. You'll also need a battery-type electrical system to power this type
of ignition.
100% Digital and Maintenance-Free
Crank/Flywheel Trigger Electronic Ignition
Section
Where Science and Ignition Come Together! (Updated 5/21/17)
Top of page [Return
to previous section]
Get That Old Engine Running Again With
21st Century Technology Using 100% Digital Crank/Flywheel Trigger Electronic
Ignition, Even When New Replacement Parts Are Obsolete or
Cost-Prohibited!
This is the era of modern wonders, where everything is electronic,
transistorized, digitized and miniaturized. Yet even today, many garden pulling
tractors with an older engine still use the old-fashioned breaker point ignition
systems. For other people, the frustration of attempting to keep a breaker
point-fired tractor in peak running condition has been enough of a reason
to join the electronic/solid state ignition era. Breaker point systems do
have some positives, though. Points are cheap and somewhat easy to install.
And many people are comfortable with installing their own points. The bad
side of using points is, besides the points contacts burning, pitting and
wearing out, if or when the points lobe on the (Kohler) camshaft and/or the
points pushrod become worn, this will narrow the gap on the points, and retard
the ignition timing. The points lobe can wear so much that resetting the
points at the factory setting of .020" or setting the ignition timing at
20º BTDC becomes impossible. As the point gap gets too narrow, the ignition
timing will become retarded (less than the factory setting of 20º BTDC),
which will cause the engine to run sluggish and lose power, and when it gets
too wide, the timing will become too advanced (more than the factory setting
of 20º BTDC), which will cause the engine to run hotter than normal,
which could cause premature engine wear and oil burning, eventually resulting
in an engine rebuild.
When the timing is retarded, the engine may be difficult to start, and when
does start, it may not idle well, and it'll lack sufficient power. Also,
with retarded timing, all of the fuel in the combustion chamber will not
be burned. Part of the raw fuel will exit out of the exhaust, while the rest
will remain in the chamber combustion and cling to the cylinder wall, causing
the lubricating crankcase oil to become diluted and contaminated with gas.
When this happens,
"cylinder wash down"
will result. Cylinder
wash down is when the gas dilutes the thin coat of oil on the cylinder
wall, and the piston rings will no longer be adequately lubricated, causing
them to wear (scrape) against the cylinder wall excessively, resulting in
worn rings, possibly a worn cylinder wall, and eventually a smoky engine.
Cylinder wash
down can also happen to a diesel engine when the fuel injectors are "turned
up" or fuel delivery is increased so the engine will produce more power.
(It will also blow more black smoke out the exhaust.)
But when the ignition timing is too advanced, this will cause the engine
to run hotter than normal, which will likely cause the piston to swell more
than usual, allowing it to make metal to metal contact against the cylinder
wall, causing excessive wear and friction. And the rings will lose their
expansion against the cylinder wall as well. Eventually, due to the lose-fitting
piston in the cylinder, the engine (piston) will make a rattling sound and
start smoking out the exhaust, and it will ultimately need to be rebuilt.
If installed correctly, crank/flywheel trigger stabilizes the ignition timing
and will always have a strong spark, so you won't ever have to worry about
it. There'll be less of a chance of spark plug fouling, and the fuel will
be burned more thoroughly. The engine will produce more power and you will
have more confidence that the engine will last longer. So for the utmost
precision ignition timing and maintenance-free convenience,
crank/flywheel trigger electronic ignition is
the way to go! It will allow the engine to idle better, accelerate and run
smoother, and produce more power at high RPM or
wide
open throttle.
Tired of changing or constantly adjusting the ignition points? Convert to
the 100% digitized crank/flywheel trigger electronic
ignition! For improved performance, easier starting, and less moving
parts to leave your tractor dead on the track. Shock and moisture resistant,
and all it takes is a few simple hand tools to install. In my opinion, getting
rid of the points and condenser/capacitor has been the best advance ever
in engine technology.
Virtually Any Gas Engine Can Be Converted To the
Crank or Flywheel Trigger Electronic
Ignition!
My custom crank/flywheel trigger electronic ignition kits will work with
virtually any 2- or 4-cycle engine, as long as the magnetic
pickup coil or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor, or the Dynatek Dyna
S or PerTronix Ignitor modules can be mounted securely, and there's a trigger
rotor or disc of some kind, that can also be secured in place.
If an engine is connected to a battery (and if it has a charging system to
keep the battery fully charged for prolong use), and if there's room on the
PTO end of the crankshaft for the ignition disc, and a place to mount the
bracket for the magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire inductive
proximity sensor, then the engine can be converted to
crank/flywheel trigger electronic ignition. And
the ignition disc doesn't have to be made of aluminum. If there's a steel
hub mounted on the end of the crankshaft, it could be used to trigger the
ignition. As long as the head(s) of the detector/trigger target, rather if
it's a small magnet, screw, pin, projection (hump) on the edge of a flywheel
or on a rotating disc, is/are higher than the outer edge of the [steel] hub
(signal detection), the
magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire inductive
proximity sensor will detect it/them.
Kohler Breakerless Ignition (and Tecumseh Cast Iron Block Engine Solid
State Ignition) are also a 100% digital system and requires no mechanical
or physical contact to activate any moving parts. It operates basically on
the same general principle as crank/flywheel trigger
ignition. Breakerless Ignition is Kohler's version of a
crank/flywheel trigger ignition system as described
further down in this website. A trigger module containing solid state electronics
performs the same function as the breaker points. Because there are no breaker
points in this system, there are no requirements for ignition timing. The
Module Sensor, as part of the Breakerless Ignition system, is energized by
two windings on the charging stator under the flywheel. Breakerless Ignition
is pretty much maintenance free, with very few parts to wear out or become
defective. But when it does fail, OEM replacement parts can be very expensive.
My custom-made crank/flywheel trigger ignition
kits can replace a defective Breakerless Ignition system for a fraction of
the cost of OEM Kohler parts. IMPORTANT: The
wire that comes from the stator under the flywheel for Kohler Trigger Module
or Tecumseh Solid State Ignition Module generates about 250 volts while the
engine is running at full governored speed (serious). Do not touch this wire
(terminal) with one bare hand and the engine itself with your other hand
while the engine is running! It is not needed for any of my crank/flywheel
trigger ignition systems. So snip off this wire or tape up the terminal to
prevent a short circuit or electrocution.
Kohler's Breakerless Ignition System was used on various Kohler engine models
K181, K241, K301 and K321. The Breakerless Ignition is Kohler's version of
a crank/flywheel trigger electronic ignition
system described further down in this website. The Trigger Module (the part
that's fastened to the bearing plate, extends over the ring gear and is triggered
by the projection (hump) on the edge of the flywheel) is part of the Breakerless
Ignition. To test this part, refer to
Kohler K-series Single Cylinder
Engine Service Manual TP-2379.
Kohler Engine Models and Specification Numbers That Originally
Came With The Breakerless Ignition System:
K181-30296, 30518, 30529, 30666; K241-46513, 46536, 46566, 46578, 46591,
46613, 46614, 46615, 46624, 46634, 46640, 46651; K301-47145, 47147, 47204,
47232, 47249, 47252, 47255, 47275, 47277, 47278, 47284, 47289, 47295, 47303,
47304, 47305, 47313, 47314, 47335, 47336, 47339, 47340, 47346, 47350, 47362,
47363, 47365, 47367, 47371, 47374, 47375, 47378, 47387, 47389, 47391 47397,
47400, 47402, 47403, 47407, 47410, 47420, 47422, 47423, 47424; K321-6006,
6008, 6010, 60105, 60121, 60124, 60124B, 60125, 6013, 60131, 60132, 60133,
60176, 6017B, 60187, 60189, 6019B, 60201, 60213, 6022B, 60239, 6025B, 60275,
6038B, 6041B, 6051, 6053, 6055, 6058, 6071, 6079, 6081, 6088, 6093.
If the Trigger Module no longer works, and installing a new one is
cost-prohibitive (Kohler part # A-237339-S, $242.00 retail, still available
as of 2017. The Breakerless Ignition coil has been discontinued by Kohler),
and you're looking for an alternative lower-cost and reliable ignition system,
well, you have the two options below... (Updated 4/20/17)
-
Convert the engine battery ignition
with points and condenser/capacitor. Install a points pushrod, points,
condenser/capacitor, canister ignition coil and necessary wiring/connectors.
The same spark plug type can be used, except set the gap at .035".
-
Convert the engine to battery-powered crank/flywheel trigger electronic ignition
as described further down in this website. A fabricated steel angled bracket
to mount a 3/8" diameter x 1" length magnetic pickup
coil will need to used and fastened in place of the Trigger Module, so
it can be triggered off the projection (hump) on the edge of the flywheel.
And Kohler's Breakerless Ignition coil will not work with any of my
crank/flywheel trigger ignition systems. By the way - certain garden tractor
pulling association's/club's sanctioning rules state that the Stock class
pulling tractors must have factory ignition and not crank/flywheel trigger
electronic ignition. But Breakerless Ignition is OEM factory and
crank/flywheel trigger. Even [Kohler Magnum] solid state ignition is
crank/flywheel trigger. I think this is a gray area in the rules that should
be clarified specifically to avoid any conflicts, disputes or unfair
disqualifications.
How to Convert from Battery Ignition to Flywheel Trigger Electronic Ignition
or
Solid
State Ignition on Kohler Engines - (Updated 5/2/17)
To use a flywheel trigger electronic
ignition system on Kohler twin cylinder engine models KT17, KT17 Series II,
KT19 and KT19 Series II, a sturdy steel or aluminum angled bracket, 1/8"
thick x 1-1/4" wide x 6" length can be used to mount either a 5/8" magnetic
pickup coil, hall effect or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor wired up to
a Chrysler (w/ballast resistor) or Ford electronic ignition control module/unit
(ICU) . The angled bracket will need to be fastened onto the #1 cylinder,
which is nearest the flywheel and on your right when facing the flywheel,
and extended to the wide, flat area on the flywheel at the 1:30 position
when the S – mark is aligned with the roll pin on the cylinder
(23º BTDC). Two bolt holes will need to be
drilled and tapped
in the bosses on the #1 cylinder for two 1/4-20 UNC x 3/4" length bolts.
The bosses for the bolt holes are already cast in the cylinder. The wide,
flat area on the flywheel can be used to tap a small 3/16" screw for use
as the detector/trigger target. The head of the screw should be extended
1/4" from the surface of the flywheel to prevent an out of time spark occurrence
by the flywheel fins. The OEM twin cylinder ignition coil and ignition switch
for the KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II engines can be used
with this flywheel trigger electronic ignition setup. Remove the points and
pushrod, and cut short 1/4-20 UNC or 1/4-28 UNF threads in the pushrod hole
and tighten in a 1/4" Allen set screw to plug the hole, or drill the hole
to 17/64" diameter x 3/8" deep, and install a
Briggs & Stratton points plunger hole plug
to block off the pushrod hole.
But to convert Kohler twin cylinder
engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II to solid state
ignition, parts off of a Kohler Magnum twin cylinder engine model MV16, M18,
MV18, M20 or MV20 will need to be used. Parts needed are: flywheel, solid
state ignition coil, coil mounting bracket and mounting screws. The flywheel
is a direct replacement, but to mount the coil bracket, two holes will need
to be drilled and
tapped 1/4-20 UNC in the bosses of the #1 cylinder (on your right when
facing the flywheel) for two 1/4-20 UNC x 1" length bolts. The bosses for
the bolts are already cast in the cylinder for this. Remove the points and
pushrod, cut short 1/4-20 UNC or 1/4-28 UNF threads in the hole and tighten
in a 1/4" Allen set screw to plug the hole, or drill the hole to 17/64" diameter
x 3/8" deep, and install a Briggs & Stratton
points plunger hole plug to block off the Kohler points pushrod hole.
And a different ignition switch is required to ground the coil to shut off
the engine. A magneto ignition key switch, or a simple OFF/ON toggle- or
key-switch can be used. Check with your local small engine repair shops/salvage
yards, search eBay, Craigslist or the Internet for the required Magnum engine
parts.
To convert the Kohler K-series single cylinder engines (K141, K160/K161,
K181, K241, K301, K321 or K341) to solid state ignition, the flywheel, bearing
plate, starter motor and solid state ignition coil off of a Kohler Magnum
M8, M10, M12, M14 or M16 engine will need to be used. The M8 parts can be
used on the Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161 and K181. And the M10, M12,
M14 or M16 parts can be used on the Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321
and K341. The ignition stator (under the flywheel) charging system will need
to be used, too.
Click Here to convert from Breakerless
Ignition to Flywheel Trigger Electronic Ignition, or for a Unique Ignition
Setup that Operate off the Flywheel, and not the Crankshaft on the PTO end
of the Engine Block. By the way - Kohler's Breakerless Ignition coil will
not work with any of my flywheel trigger ignition systems. (Updated
4/29/17)
Stable ignition timing is a necessity in high performance engines. In most
cases, a points ignition will do just fine, but when you start making big
time horsepower with extreme cylinder pressures and higher RPM, the timing
is critical to both the performance and life of the engine. The ignition
must be triggered at a precise time in relation to the position of the piston
during the compression stroke. However, the timing can get erratic or fluctuate
at high RPM or
wide
open throttle with the points system, due to camshaft end play, clearance
in both the crank and cam gears and mechanical flexing that takes place through
the camshaft support pin, especially when using a high lift cam with very
stiff valve springs. In fact, if you ever checked the timing on an engine
with camshaft-operated points using an inductive strobe timing light, you
may have noticed that the timing mark on the flywheel (or starter pulley
on the PTO end) will fluctuate or "move up and down" a few degrees. And it'll
fluctuate more as the engine RPM increases. This won't happen with
crank/flywheel trigger electronic ignition. It
totally eliminates spark flutter or fluctuations and erratic timing problems
common with point ignitions. With crank/flywheel
trigger electronic ignition, the "tighter" the main bearings are, the
more stable the timing is.
When checking the timing with an inductive strobe timing light on an engine
with crank/flywheel trigger electronic and main
ball bearings, it's best to run the engine until it reaches normal operating
temperature. The reason for this is the free play in the ball bearings is
lessened as the bearings get warm, providing a more stable spark.
The crankshaft knows exactly
where the piston is, plus the crankshaft is the most stable component in
an engine in relation to piston position. That's why
crank/flywheel trigger electronic ignition is
so important in high-horsepower/high RPM or
wide
open throttle engine applications. With this ignition, you get absolutely
stable timing with 1/10th± of a degree of accuracy from 0 to 15,000+
RPM without missing a beat (when using an electronic ignition control module/unit
(ICU) with a high-capacity transistor). The 1/10th± of a degree is the
result of the clearances in the main bearings. With an electronic ignition
control module with a high-capacity transistor, the
crank/flywheel trigger ignition system will work
flawlessly without missing a hit even if an engine can turn up to 100,000
RPM! Because it works as fast as electricity can travel. As long as it's
installed and adjusted correctly, it'll help an engine scream down the track.
Also, with the crank/flywheel trigger electronic
ignition system, you can set the ignition timing and forget it!
Crank/flywheel trigger electronic ignition is
when the mechanical breaker points and condenser/capacitor are totally eliminated
and replaced by solid state transistorized circuitry. Actually, it works
on the same principle as the electronic ignition that's used in the older
automobiles (before computerized ignition systems). The conventional points
ignition system is considered as old-fashioned technology by today's standards.
Even the [high dollar] aftermarket adjustable ignition plate that's made
for Chevy points is considered old-fashioned by today's standards!
Using points versus crank/flywheel trigger electronic
ignition is up to you. Personally, I prefer the
crank/flywheel trigger ignition setup because
it's very reliable and virtually maintenance free. With conventional ignition,
the points will ALWAYS go bad or wear out. The contacts on points can get
dirty, worn, burnt, oily (oil seepage from the crankcase through the points
pushrod hole), out of adjustment, wet (whenever the tractor is washed off
or rained upon) or even oxidized (light corrosion). The use of a
high-output/performance ignition coil can also shorten the life of points.
And the condenser/capacitor can become defective.
Because all high-output/performance ignition coils draw more power from the
battery, if they are not used with a ballast
resistor, they will likely burn a good set of ignition points in a short
time. All high-output/performance ignition coils also require two standard
capacity (Kohler) condensers/capacitors or one high-capacity/performance
condenser/capacitor so it can produce more voltage. But high-output/performance
ignition coils have no effect whatsoever on the Chrysler (w/ballast resistor)
or Ford electronic ignition control module/unit (ICU) , even if two
automotive-type canister coils, a
2-post Harley-Davidson coil
(this particular coil also works great for Kohler engine models KT17, KT17
Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532, K582, K660/K662, or Onan twin
cylinder engines, a
GM DIS (Distributorless Ignition System) coil is used!
The DIS coil part numbers are AC Delco D555 or Standard Motor Products DR39X,
and was used in select GM vehicles from 1985 to the 2005, one of which is
the 2005 Chevrolet Impala. There's no certain way to connect the wires to
the primary windings in the Harley-Davidson or GM DIS coil. There is no positive
(+) or negative (–) side. Just connect the wires to either terminal.
The DIS coil is a high-output/performance coil, which means the spark plug
gaps can be set at .060" each. When using points with 12 volts, install a
ballast resistor to prevent burning up the coil, and connect two standard
capacity (Kohler) condensers/capacitors or one high-capacity/performance
condenser/capacitor so the oil will produce more voltage. (When using two
condensers/capacitors, connect each condenser/capacitor to the negative (–)
coil terminal, or to the wire going to the points, and make sure each
condenser/capacitor is grounded.) A ballast resistor is not required with
crank/flywheel trigger ignition or in a 6 volt system. And crank/flywheel
trigger ignition is much safer than points. Because ignition points contacts
creates a spark (which is normal), there's always danger of a fire if there's
ever a fuel leak. The only spark that occurs with crank/flywheel trigger
ignition is at the spark plug's tip. The bracket to mount the Harley coil
on a Kohler twin cylinder engine is not included. This part is discontinued
by Kohler. If needed, new mounting holes can be drilled through the Harley
coil's laminations next to the existing holes.
Go here to see how well the GM DIS coil works:
Gravely 817 Onan CCKA Coil Replacement with Chevy GM DIS Coil
- YouTube (Video posted by Ralph
(rw3dog@yahoo.com)
At very high RPM or
wide
open throttle, with conventional points and condenser/capacitor ignition,
the ignition coil operates at about 80% efficiency. The same is true with
high-output/performance ignition coils because they require more power from
the battery. But with crank/flywheel trigger
ignition, using the GM HEI 4-pin, Chrysler (w/ballast resistor) or Ford
electronic ignition control module/unit (ICU) , any type of coil operates
at 100% efficiency at any RPM, which produces a much stronger spark.
This is why Chevrolet refers to their 1974-'90 electronic ignition as HEI,
meaning High Energy Ignition. The reason there's a stronger spark is because
at higher RPM, there's no condenser/capacitor to break down the voltage in
the primary circuit in the coil.
When a magnetic pickup coil is used with crank/flywheel
trigger ignition, the duration of each spark lasts about twice as long
than with points and condenser/capacitor ignition. And when a 3-wire inductive
proximity sensor is used with crank/flywheel trigger
ignition, the spark duration is about 4 times longer than with points
and condenser/capacitor ignition, because a 3-wire inductive proximity sensor
can detect the detector/trigger target, rather if it's a small screw, pin,
projection (hump) on the edge of a flywheel or on a rotating disc, at the
farther distance than a magnetic pickup coil. A longer spark duration burns
the fuel more thoroughly, especially at very high RPM, resulting in more
power. Although a 3-wire inductive proximity sensor can be used on a stock
engine running at around 4,000 RPM with no problems, it's more suited for
a high performance engine (than the magnetic pickup coil) due to its longer
spark duration. In other words, a stock engine with limited RPM will not
benefit from the longer spark duration. Also, the closer the magnetic pickup
coil or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor is set to the detector/trigger
target, rather if it's a small screw, pin, projection (hump) on the edge
of a flywheel or on a rotating disc, the longer the duration will be.
Items Needed and Details on How to Install a Crank
or Flywheel Trigger Electronic Ignition System (on virtually any gas
engine) - Top of page
ü A Universal Magnetic Pickup Coil,
Crankshaft Position Sensor, Tach/Speed Sensor or an 3-Wire Inductive Proximity
Sensor. Virtually any automotive engine speed sensor or crank position
sensor will work for this system. These all work the same. These sensors
require no power from the battery or module because they self-generate an
AC signal. Be sure to use a magnetic one that produces a small electrical
current whenever a small steel (nonmagnetic) object is passed quickly over
the end of it. Most magnetic pickup coils generate 2-3 volts. Also, there
needs to be a way to mount it on the engine so the air gap/clearance and
ignition timing can be set and/or adjusted. A universal magnetic pickup coil
is most common for this application. It's an engine speed sensor (Tach Sensor)
that threads in the bellhousing of a late model truck with a Diesel engine
for activation of the tachometer. A crank position
sensor is an automotive unit that threads in the engine block and reads off
a cogged wheel mounted on the crankshaft. It's for a
crank/flywheel trigger ignition system that's
on an automobile with a computer-controlled engine that has electronic fuel
injection.
The Ford (various 1987-2009 models) ABS wheel speed sensor
will work as the magnetic pickup coil with the
crank/flywheel trigger ignition. And various
GM crank position sensors have three or more wires, but use just two wires.
(They're nothing more than a magnetic pickup coil.) The third (or other)
wire(s) is ground or neutral and really don't need to be used with
crank/flywheel trigger ignition. When you buy
a sensor, test it to see which wires produce the electrical current, then
just snip off the (useless) other wire(s). A 3-wire inductive proximity sensor,
magnetic pickup coil and crank position sensor can be easily tested by connecting
it to an
analog or
digital multimeter that's set on the lowest AC scale, then
quickly pass the head of a small steel bolt or nail back and forth across
the end of the sensor. If the analog needle fluctuates slightly or the digital
display goes up and down each time the metal object makes a pass, the sensor
is in working order. The more voltage a sensor produces, the stronger the
spark. Use a small magnet or a
telescoping magnetic pickup tool with a small magnet to
test a non-magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire hall effect proximity sensor. The
stronger the magnet, the more voltage the sensor will produce, resulting
in a stronger spark.
The magnetic pickup in the GM 4-pin HEI distributor generates exactly 5 volts
of power. And the cube-shaped high-output inductive proximity sensor generates
exactly 5-1/2 volts of power, making them almost the same voltage output
and ideal for use with the ordinary/stock GM HEI module to create a strong
spark. And virtually all universal magnetic pickup coils and round (low-output)
proximity sensors generate about 1-1/2 volts of power, making these ideal
for use with the high-output/performance GM HEI module (with a 1.0 ohm coil,
metal core spark plug wire and copper core spark plug gapped at .025"), Chrysler
or Ford ignition control modules to create a strong spark.
Magnetic pickup coils and proximity
sensors are very sensitive to mechanical damage (and electrical damage if
connected wrong). For magnetic pickup coils,
set the air gap/clearance from the detection/trigger target (screw, pin or
small raised area on the rotating disc) at .010"-.060" with a brass, plastic,
business card, poster board, stainless steel (anything non-magnetic) feeler
gauge. And being 3-wire inductive proximity sensors
have a farther detection range, set the air gap/clearance at .010"-.188".
If the gap is wider than specified with either sensor, the engine could have
no spark or misfire at higher RPM. To prevent the possibility of an out of
time spark occurrence, the detector target needs to be a minimum of 3/16"
higher than or above the circumference surface of a steel or cast iron rotating
disc or flywheel. Direct metal contact with either sensor could damage them.
When in doubt if a sensor is mechanically damaged, look at the end
of it with the strong magnifying glass to see any damage. If it is damaged,
it needs to be replaced. A magnetic pickup coil can be tested with
a digital multimeter set on 200m DC, with the negative lead of the meter
on the white wire of the pickup coil and positive lead on the black wire,
then pass a small steel screw or bolt over the end of the magnetic pickup
coil. If the meter shows a reading, the pickup coil is in good
condition.
(Updated 6/9/17) ü The
GM HEI
(High
Energy Ignition) 4-Pin Electronic Ignition Control Module/Unit
(ICU) can be used for the crank/flywheel trigger
ignition system. The GM HEI 4-pin module can safely operate with full
12 volts, is completely sealed, making it water-proof. It's also
vibration-resistant because it has an micro-electronic circuit board, meaning
there's no internal loose wires to vibrate and break due to normal engine
vibration. Crimp-type, slip-on
female spade wire connectors can be used on the terminals
of the module when connecting the wires. Ground the module through the two
mounting holes (so it will work) and when mounting the GM HEI module, always
fasten it with
dielectric, thermal or heat sink grease/paste on a clean,
flat aluminum plate with plenty of fresh air circulation to dissipate the
heat while in operation. Also, the GM HEI 4-pin module has no spark advance.
The ignition timing stays constant at all times. Which means it doesn't advance
or retard the timing at any RPM. However, at idle, the GM HEI system will
experience a dwell time (duration of the spark) of 10 to 15 degrees and will
increase to 30 to 35 degrees by 2,500 to 3,000 RPM.
Grind away the two alignment pins on the GM HEI module so the base will make
full contact with the flat aluminum surface for 100% cooling of the unit.
And when mounting the GM HEI module, always fasten it with
dielectric, thermal or heat sink grease/paste on a clean,
flat aluminum plate with plenty of fresh air circulation to dissipate the
heat while in operation.
UPDATED
8/8/17: Now when used on a small engine, the GM HEI 4-pin electronic ignition
control module lives up to its name, High Energy Ignition!
The ordinary/stock GM HEI 4-pin
module will produce a very strong spark and accelerate the engine at high
RPMs only when used with the cube-shaped high-output inductive 3-wire
proximity sensor, regardless of the ohms resistance or voltage output of
the coil, type of spark plug wire, spark plug and width of gap is used. It
makes no difference when the cube-shaped high-output inductive 3-wire proximity
sensor is used with the high-output/performance GM HEI module. This system
works great for lawn & garden engines and competition pulling engines
alike.
But the high-output/performance
GM HEI module will allow the engine to accelerate at high RPMs with the magnetic
pickup coil only with a 1.0 ohm ignition coil, metal-core spark plug
wire and non-resistor spark plug with the gap set at .025". This system works
great mainly for ordinary lawn & garden engines only.
This concept revolutionizes the
use of this small, compact and versatile ignition module! This is a thoroughly
tested, researched and proven reliable ignition systems invented by Brian
Miller. NOTE: The round-body proximity sensors and magnetic pickup coils
will allow the engine to accelerate at high RPMs only when used with
the Chrysler or Ford electronic ignition control modules, regardless of the
ohms resistance and voltage output of the coil, type of spark plug wire,
spark plug and width of gap is used.
The GM HEI 4-pin module have four terminals. The terminals are marked as
follows: W (White), G (Ground), C (Coil) and B
(Battery). The one small terminal (G) on the module accepts the 187
(.187" / 3/16" wide) female spade crimp connector, and the three bigger terminals
(W, B and C) accepts the 250 (.250" / 1/4" wide) female
spade crimp connector.
-
To connect the
wires with a magnetic pickup coil, W connects to the White wire on
the magnetic pickup coil, G connects to the Black wire on the magnetic
pickup coil, C connects to the coil negative (–) terminal, and
B connects to the coil positive (+) terminal and to the ignition switch
(battery positive (+) post). If B and C connections are reversed
and power is supplied, the GM HEI module will not burn up. There will just
be no spark. But if the White and Black wires on the magnetic pickup coil
that connects to W and G are reversed, or if an ordinary/stock
GM HEI module is used with a coil that has an internal resistor higher than
1.0 ohms, the engine may idle well, but die out or "sputter" when accelerated
due to a weak spark or weak coil saturation.
-
To connect the wires with the cube-shaped high-output inductive 3-wire proximity
sensor, W connects to the Blue wire on the sensor and engine/chassis
ground, G connects to the Black wire on the sensor, C connects
to the coil negative (–) terminal, and B connects to the Brown
wire on the sensor, coil positive (+) terminal and to the ignition switch
(battery positive (+) post). If B and C connections are reversed
and power is supplied, the GM HEI module will not burn up. There will just
be no spark.
-
If an ordinary/stock or high output/performance GM HEI module is used with
a low output (round) proximity sensor, the engine may idle well, but die
out or "sputter" upon acceleration due to a weak spark, regardless of the
ohms resistance of the coil. The low output (round) proximity sensors will
only work with the Chrysler or Ford ignition control modules so the engine
will accelerate at high RPM, regardless of the ohms resistance of the coil.
Being the GM HEI module is small and compact, it's ideal for use on lawn
& garden equipment, or a garden pulling tractor with limited space. The
magnetic pickup coil w/ mounting adapter or cube-shaped high-output inductive
3-wire proximity sensor w/mounting adapter will need to be installed on the
bearing plate at the 10:30 position, and be used with the Kohler flywheel
that is designed for Breakerless Ignition. The ideal location to mount the
[high output/performance] GM HEI module on a Kohler 10-16hp engine with a
starter/generator, 8" flywheel and small size bearing plate is directly on
the bearing plate with
dielectric, thermal or heat sink grease/paste at the 10:30
position, just underneath the magnetic pickup coil. And the ideal location
to mount the [ordinary/stock] GM HEI module on a Kohler 10-16hp engine with
a gear starter, 9-1/2" ring gear flywheel and large size bearing plate is
directly on the outside of the bearing plate with
dielectric, thermal or heat sink grease/paste, next to
where the mechanical fuel pump goes. Use a
close quarters drill to bore small mounting holes in the
bearing plate and 8-32 UNC hand tap (self-tapping screws are easier to install)
to fasten the module to the plate.
FYI - The electronic ignition control modules that's mentioned in this
website are designed for older automobiles with a mechanical timing advance
(flyweights) built into the distributor. The newer control modules that can
retard and advance the timing use multiple sensors, one to tell the module
that the engine isn't running, therefore, it retards the timing so the engine
will start easier. And another sensor to send the signal that the engine
is running, and then another sensor to advance the timing so the engine will
produce full power. The distributor for these don't have (or need) a mechanical
timing advance.
>ü A Dodge, Plymouth
or Chrysler (MOPAR) Electronic Ignition Control Module/Unit (ICU) can also
be used for flywheel trigger ignition. The
ordinary OEM Chrysler ignition module works great on a garden pulling tractor
for durability and all-out performance. Plus, it's vibration-resistant because
the internal electronic components are sealed in epoxy. This means there's
no internal wires to vibrate and break due to normal engine vibration. And
being a new wiring harness for the Chrysler electronic ignition control module
cost about $38.00-$68.00, so to save money, I recommend getting the wiring
harness (connector w/wire leads and retaining screw) off a 1972-1992 Chrysler,
Dodge or Plymouth vehicle that's in a salvage yard. But if you want to get
a new one, the part number is Standard S-516. If a used OEM Chrysler wiring
harness can't be found or if a new one is cost-prohibitive, four, slip-on
female bullet wire connectors with different colored wires
can be used to make a wiring harness for the Chrysler ignition module, and
secure the connectors in place with
Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant. (Sometimes one must
improvise to make things work. ) This module
can be used with virtually any ignition coil, regardless of the ohms resistance
or voltage output.
Fasten the module with the mounting base holes to engine/chassis ground (battery
negative (—) post) so it will work. This type of module was used from
1972 through 1992, except on vehicles with the "lean burn" ignition. Also,
tests has proven that an ordinary/stock Chrysler module performs just as
well as an aftermarket high performance [Mopar] modules when used on a garden
pulling tractor. For accurate and detailed wiring information and diagrams,
please click here or scroll down further
in this web page. I offer this module for sale further
down in this website.
FYI - The electronic ignition control modules that's mentioned in this
website are designed for older automobiles with a mechanical timing advance
(flyweights) built into the distributor. The newer control modules that can
retard and advance the timing use multiple sensors, one to tell the module
that the engine isn't running, therefore, it retards the timing so the engine
will start easier. And another sensor to send the signal that the engine
is running, and then another sensor to advance the timing so the engine will
produce full power. The distributor for these don't have (or need) a mechanical
timing advance.
The electronic ignition control module,
magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire inductive proximity
sensor could burn up (possibly instantly) if the wires aren't connected
to the right terminals! When connecting the wires, take your time and make
sure to use different colored wires to avoid confusion. And be sure to fasten
all wiring securely to avoid breakage or loose connections from normal engine
or tractor vibration. And when mounting the Chrysler module, mount it away
from excessive heat and remember that the exposed power transistor is
electrically hot while the power is on. The module should be mounted in an
area which minimizes the possibility of shorting the transistor when working
in the engine area. And to avoid an electric shock, do not touch the switching
transistor, and to prevent from damaging the module, do not short the switching
transistor to the heat sink or any ground with a metal object!
Virtually any automotive parts supply store carries the stock type Chrysler
electronic ignition control module. They retail for about $21.00 and up.
Various manufacturer's part numbers are: EL110 (G.P. SORENSEN, available
at Advance Auto Parts stores); MPETP50SB (NAPA); LX101 (STANDARD); CBE14
(Borg-Warner); AL403 (NIEH); TP51 (ECHLIN, available at NAPA Auto Parts stores);
CH301 (FILK); CR109 (WELLS); E106 (KEM); C1900Z (AC DELCO) and AL-401 (NIEHOFF
IGNITION). Or just tell the counter person it's for a 1972 Chrysler Imperial.
ü
A Ballast Resister or a Full-Length Resistance Ignition Wire is required
with the Chrysler module!
The Chrysler electronic ignition control module (off any 1972-85 Chrysler,
Dodge or Plymouth vehicle), whether if it's a stock or a high performance
one, require a ballast resistor (off any 1955-57
GM vehicle) or a full-length resistance ignition wire (off any 1958-74 GM
vehicle) to prevent putting too much voltage in it and burning it up. It's
best to use a minimum 1.2 ohm ballast resistor
for the Chrysler electronic ignition control module. Anything less, and the
module could burn up. A ballast resistor or
resistor wire is basically a voltage reducer that reduces 12 volts down to
between 6-9 volts, depending on the load. (The
ballast resistor shown here is the same used
on the 1955-57 GM vehicles.) The reason the Chrysler module doesn't have
an internal resistor is because as the resistor heats up while the module
is in operation, the heat from the resistor could travel to and damage other
sensitive internal electronic components within the module.
ü
Another type of electronic ignition control module/unit (ICU) that works
great for crank/flywheel trigger ignition is
one that's made for various domestic Ford, Lincoln and Mercury vehicles.
This type of module operates with full 12 volts, which means it does not
require a ballast resistor. It's also a
high-output/performance module when used on a small engine or garden pulling
tractor. And just like the Chrysler module above, this one is also
vibration-resistant because the internal electronic components are sealed
in epoxy. This means there's no internal wires to vibrate and break due to
normal engine vibration. The correct module to use has a
blue grommet and comes with its own wiring
harness. The OEM connectors/plugs can be snipped off and crimp-type connectors
installed when used on a small engine or garden pulling tractor. Ground the
module with the mounting base holes so it will work. This module can also
be used with virtually any ignition coil, regardless of the ohms resistance
or voltage output. And this is not a spark advance module. The ignition timing
stays constant at all times with this module. Which means it doesn't advance
or retard the timing at any RPM. I offer this module
for sale further down in this website.
FYI - The electronic ignition control modules that's mentioned in this
website are designed for older automobiles with a mechanical timing advance
(flyweights) built into the distributor. The newer control modules that can
retard and advance the timing use multiple sensors, one to tell the module
that the engine isn't running, therefore, it retards the timing so the engine
will start easier. And another sensor to send the signal that the engine
is running, and then another sensor to advance the timing so the engine will
produce full power. The distributor for these don't have (or need) a mechanical
timing advance.
Here's a list of Ford and Motorcraft part numbers for the Ford
blue grommet electronic ignition control
module/unit (ICU) :
Auto Parts Stores Cross Reference -
FF402 (NIEHOFF); MF-481 (Mitech); F0306 (Filko); F102 (AmpcoWells); E302
(Kem); EL107M (G.P. SORENSEN, available at Advance Auto Parts stores); LX203
(STANDARD); F1910 (AC DELCO), ECHTP36 or ECHTP40 (ECHLIN, available at NAPA
auto parts stores); F100 (Duralast).
Ford -
D6AB-12A199-A1B, A2B; D6AE-12A199-A1A, A1B, A2A, A2B, AA; D6AZ-12A199-A,
B; D6TE-12A199-A1A D6TZ-12A-199-A; D7AZ-12A199-B; D8AE-12A199-A1E;
D8VE-12A199-A1A, A1B, A1C, A2A, A2B, A2C; D9VZ-12A199-A; E1FZ-12A199-A;
E8PF-12A199-AA, AB; E9VZ-12A199-A; F2PF-12A199-AA; F2PZ-12A199-AA.
Motorcraft -
DY-184, A, B, C; DY-198, DY337, DY-611, DY-683, DY-893. |
Donor Vehicles -
American Motors: AMX 78-80; Concord 78-81,83; Eagle 80-81, 83-87; Gremlin
77-78; Hornet 77; Matador 77-78; Pacer 77-80; Spirit 79-81,83.
Ford: Bronco 76-87; Custom 75-77; E Van 89-89,95; Elite 75-76; Escort 81-82;
EXP 82; F Pickup 76-87,97; Fairmont 78-83; Fiesta 78-80; Gran Torino 75-76;
Granada 75-82; LTD 75-86; LTD II 77-79; Maverick 76-77; Mustang 79-85; Mustang
II 76-78; P series 76-77; Pinto 76-80; Ranchero 76-79; Ranger 83-88; Tempo
84-87; Thunderbird 75-83; Torino 75-76.
Jeep: Cherokee 77-85; CJ5 77-83; CJ7 77-86; Grand Wagoneer 84-87; J series
77-87; Scrambler 81-85; Wagoneer 77-85.
Lincoln: Continental 76-80, 83-85; Mark IV 76; Mark V 77-79; Mark VI 80,82-83;
Town Car 82-83; Versailles 77-80.
Mercury: Bobcat 76-80; Capri 77-76,79-86; Comet 76-77; Cougar 76-84; Grand
Marquis 76-83; LN7 82; Lynx 81-82; Marquis 76-85; Monarch 76-80; Montego
76; Topaz 84-87; Zephyr 78-83. |
The electronic ignition
control module, magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire inductive
proximity sensor could burn up (possibly instantly) if the wires aren't
connected to the right terminals! When connecting the wires, take your time
and make sure to use different colored wires to avoid confusion. And be sure
to fasten all wiring securely to avoid breakage or loose connections from
normal engine or tractor vibration. And when mounting the Chrysler module,
mount it away from excessive heat and remember that the exposed power transistor
is electrically hot while the power is on. The module should be mounted in
an area which minimizes the possibility of shorting the transistor when working
in the engine area. Shorting the power transistor to the heat sink or any
ground could damage the module.
Engines can't start under full compression and with advanced ignition timing.
One or the other must be "suppressed" in order for the engine to crank over
without "kicking back" to start. Either it needs to have a compression release
to relieve about half the compression, then the compression will return to
full upon start up, or the timing needs to be positioned at TDC, then it
can automatically advance upon start up.
The only reason any engine would need the ignition timing retarded or a spark
advance system is so the engine won't "kick back" when attempting to start
it. "Kick back" occurs when the crankshaft/flywheel suddenly and violently
rebounds or rotates in the opposite direction, which is could bend or break
the starter armature shaft or the aluminum starter housing. Virtually all
small gas engines nowadays have a compression relief mechanism on the camshaft
(that opens the exhaust valve slightly halfway on the compression stroke),
which allows the engine to crank over easily without kicking back. And most
pulling engines have a long duration camshaft with the compression relief
mechanism (if using a cast cam) and a heavier-than-stock [steel] flywheel.
Which will also allow an engine to crank over easily without kicking back
when starting. So you see, a spark advance really isn't necessary.
Magnetic pickup coils and proximity
sensors are very sensitive to mechanical damage (and electrical damage if
connected wrong). For magnetic pickup coils,
set the air gap/clearance from the detection/trigger target (screw, pin or
small raised area on the rotating disc) at .010"-.060" with a brass, plastic,
business card, poster board, stainless steel (anything non-magnetic) feeler
gauge. And being 3-wire inductive proximity sensors
have a farther detection range, set the air gap/clearance at .010"-.188".
If the gap is wider than specified with either sensor, the engine could have
no spark or misfire at higher RPM. To prevent the possibility of out of time
spark occurrence, the detector target needs to be a minimum of 3/16" higher
than or above the circumference surface of the steel or cast iron rotating
disc or flywheel. Direct metal contact with either sensor could damage them.
When in doubt if a sensor is mechanically damaged, look at the end
of it with the strong magnifying glass to see any damage. If it is damaged,
it needs to be replaced. A magnetic pickup coil can be tested with
a digital multimeter set on 200m DC, with the negative lead of the meter
on the white wire of the pickup coil and positive lead on the black wire,
then pass a small steel screw or bolt over the end of the magnetic pickup
coil. If the meter shows a reading, the pickup coil is in good
condition.
(Updated and Corrected 6/9/17)
Electronic Ignition Control Module/Unit
(ICU) Wiring Connections/Diagrams with a Magnetic Pickup Coil and Proximity
Sensor
GM HEI 4-Pin Electronic Ignition Control Module Wiring
Connections/Diagram with a Magnetic Pickup Coil
This ignition system operates with full 12 volts. It is recommended only
for ordinary lawn & garden equipment.
-
Connect
[G] terminal on
module to the Black wire on the magnetic pickup coil.
-
Connect [W] terminal on module to the White wire on the magnetic pickup
coil.
-
Connect [C] terminal on module to ignition coil negative (–)
terminal. For competition pulling - if the grounding-type killswitch is
used, connect the ungrounded wire from the killswitch to this terminal. Or
for a generator engine, connect this terminal with a diode to "excite" or
temporarily energize the field windings.
-
Connect [B] terminal on module to ignition coil positive (+) terminal
and to ignition switch (battery positive (+) post).
-
If B and C connections are reversed and power is supplied,
the GM HEI module will NOT burn up. There will just be no spark.
-
Mounting holes in module body must be connected to engine/chassis ground
(battery negative (–) post).
-
When mounting the GM HEI module, always fasten it with
dielectric, thermal or heat sink grease/paste on a clean,
flat aluminum plate with plenty of fresh air circulation to dissipate the
heat while in operation. The module does NOT have a built-in timing retard.
GM HEI 4-Pin Electronic Ignition Control Module Wiring
Connections/Diagram with the Cube-Shaped High-Output 3-Wire Inductive Proximity
Sensor (Updated 6/9/17)
This ignition system
operates with full 12 volts.
UPDATED 8/8/17: Now the ordinary/stock
GM HEI ignition control module lives up to its name, High Energy Ignition!
When used on a small engine, in order for the ordinary/stock GM HEI module
allow the engine to accelerate at full speed, it must be used with the
cube-shaped high-output 3-wire inductive proximity sensor, and can
be used with virtually any ignition coil, regardless of the ohms resistance
or voltage output, even with a suppression/carbon core spark plug wire and
resistor spark plug gapped at .035". This concept revolutionizes the use
of this small, compact and versatile module! This is a thoroughly tested,
researched and proven reliable ignition system invented by Brian Miller for
ordinary lawn & garden engines and competition pulling
engines.
-
Connect [G] terminal on
module to Black wire on sensor.
-
Connect [W] terminal on module to
Blue wire on sensor and to engine/chassis
ground (battery negative (–) post). The proximity sensor will not work
if the [W] terminal and blue wire are not grounded.
-
Connect [C] terminal on module to ignition coil negative (–)
terminal. For competition pulling - if the grounding-type killswitch is
used, connect the ungrounded wire from the killswitch to this terminal. Or
for a generator engine, connect this terminal with a diode to "excite" or
temporarily energize the field windings.
-
Connect [B] terminal on module to
Brown wire on sensor and to ignition
coil positive (+) terminal and to ignition switch (battery positive (+) post).
-
If B and C connections are reversed and power is supplied,
the GM HEI module will NOT burn up. There will just be no spark.
-
Mounting holes in module body must be grounded to engine/chassis (battery
negative (–) post). And when mounting the GM HEI module, always fasten
it with
dielectric, thermal or heat sink grease/paste on a clean,
flat aluminum plate with plenty of fresh air circulation to dissipate the
heat while in operation. The module does NOT have a built-in timing retard.
-
The cube-shaped proximity sensor has an LED (Light Emitting Diode) on the
unit. If the proximity sensor is wired correctly, the LED will illuminate
when in close proximity to the detectable target.
Chrysler / Dodge / Plymouth Electronic Ignition Control Module/Unit
Wiring Connections/Diagram with a Magnetic Pickup Coil
This module requires a minimum 1.2 ohm ballast
resistor to prevent from burning up unit. Can be used with virtually
any magnetic pickup coil or proximity sensor and ignition coil, regardless
of the ohms resistance or voltage output, and will produce a strong spark
so the engine will idle smooth and accelerate quickly to full speed (wide
open throttle) with no hesitation or misfire.
-
Connect
[A] and
[B] terminals on module to either wires on the magnetic pickup coil.
It doesn't matter which wires on the magnetic pickup coil are connected
to [A] and [B] terminals.
-
Connect [D] terminal to the ignition coil negative (–) terminal.
For competition pulling - if the grounding-type killswitch is used, connect
the ungrounded wire from the killswitch to this terminal. Or for a generator
engine, connect this terminal with a diode to "excite" or temporarily energize
the field windings.
-
Connect [C] terminal to a minimum 1.2 ohm ballast resistor, and to
positive (+) terminal on ignition coil and to ignition switch (battery positive
(+) post).
-
(Optional) Connect [E] terminal (may not be present on some newer
modules) to the "I" terminal on the
4-post starter solenoid
to give the ignition coil a stronger spark for faster engine start up. If
[E] is connected directly to the coil full-time and the engine is
ran for a long period of time, the module could burn up internally. The module
does NOT have a built-in timing retard.
-
Body of module must be connected to engine/chassis ground (battery negative
(–) post).
Chrysler / Dodge / Plymouth Electronic Ignition Control Module /Unit
Wiring Connections/Diagram with a 3-Wire Inductive or Hall Effect Proximity
Sensor
This module requires a minimum 1.2 ohm ballast
resistor to prevent from burning up unit. Can be used with virtually
any magnetic pickup coil or proximity sensor and ignition coil, regardless
of the ohms resistance or voltage output, and will produce a strong spark
so the engine will idle smooth and accelerate quickly to full speed (wide
open throttle) with no hesitation or misfire.
-
Connect
[A] and
[B] terminals on module to the Black and
Blue wires on sensor. It doesn't matter
which wires on the proximity sensor are connected to [A] and
[B] terminals.
-
Connect the Blue wire on sensor to
engine/chassis ground (battery negative (–) post).
-
Connect [D] terminal on module to ignition coil negative (–)
terminal. For competition pulling - if the grounding-type killswitch is
used, connect the ungrounded wire from the killswitch to this terminal. Or
for a generator engine, connect this terminal with a diode to "excite" or
temporarily energize the field windings.
-
Connect [C] terminal on module to the
Brown wire on sensor, then to minimum
1.2 ohm ballast resistor, to positive (+) terminal on ignition coil, and
to ignition switch (battery positive (+) post).
-
(Optional) Connect [E] terminal on module (may not be present on some
newer modules) to the "I" terminal on the
4-post starter solenoid
to give the ignition coil a stronger spark for faster engine start up. If
[E] is connected to the coil full-time and the engine is ran for a
long period of time, the module will eventually burn up. The module does
NOT have a built-in timing retard.
-
Body of module must be connected to engine/chassis ground (battery negative
(–) post).
-
Some proximity sensors have
an LED (Light Emitting Diode) on the rear of unit. If the proximity sensor
is wired correctly, the LED will illuminate when in close proximity to the
detectable target.
Ford / Mercury / Lincoln Electronic Ignition Control Module/Unit
Wiring Connections/Diagram with a Magnetic Pickup Coil
This ignition system operates with full 12 volts. Can be used with virtually
any magnetic pickup coil or proximity sensor and ignition coil, regardless
of the ohms resistance or voltage output, and will produce a strong spark
so the engine will idle smooth and accelerate quickly to full speed (wide
open throttle) with no hesitation or misfire.
-
Connect
Orange
and Purple wires on module to either
wires on the magnetic pickup coil. It doesn't matter which wires on the
magnetic pickup coil are connected to the Orange
and Purple wires.
-
Connect Green wire on module to ignition
coil negative (–) terminal. For competition pulling - if the
grounding-type killswitch is used, connect the ungrounded wire from the
killswitch to this terminal. Or for a generator engine, connect this terminal
with a diode to "excite" or temporarily energize the field windings.
-
Connect Red wire on module to ignition
coil positive (+) terminal and to ignition switch (battery positive (+) post).
-
Black wire on module must be connected to engine/chassis ground (battery
negative (–) post).
-
(Optional) Connect the White wire to the "I" terminal on the
4-post starter solenoid
to give the ignition coil a stronger spark for faster engine start up. If
the White wire is connected to the coil full-time and the engine is ran for
a long period of time, the module could burn up internally. The module does
NOT have a built-in timing retard.
Ford / Mercury / Lincoln Electronic Ignition Control Module/Unit
Wiring Connections/Diagram with a 3-Wire Inductive or Hall Effect Proximity
Sensor
This ignition system operates with full 12 volts. Can be used with virtually
any magnetic pickup coil or proximity sensor and ignition coil, regardless
of the ohms resistance or voltage output, and will produce a strong spark
so the engine will idle smooth and accelerate quickly to full speed (wide
open throttle) with no hesitation or misfire.
-
Connect the
Black and
Blue wires on sensor to the
Orange and
Purple wires on module. It doesn't
matter which Black or Blue wires on the proximity
sensor are connected the Orange or
Purple wires.
-
Connect the Blue wire on sensor to
engine/chassis ground (battery negative (–) post).
-
Connect the Green wire on module to ignition
coil negative (–) terminal. For competition pulling - if you're using
the grounding-type of killswitch, connect the ungrounded wire from the killswitch
to this terminal. Or for a generator engine, connect this terminal with a
diode to "excite" or temporarily energize the field windings.
-
Connect the Brown wire on sensor to the
Red wire on module, to ignition coil
positive (+) terminal, and to ignition switch (battery positive (+) post).
-
Black wire on module must be connected to engine/chassis ground (battery
negative (–) post).
-
(Optional) Connect the White wire to the "I" terminal on the
4-post starter solenoid
to give the ignition coil a stronger spark for faster engine start up. If
the White wire is connected to the coil full-time and the engine is ran for
a long period of time, the module could burn up internally. The module does
NOT have a built-in timing retard.
-
Some proximity sensors have
an LED (Light Emitting Diode) on the rear of unit. If the proximity sensor
is wired correctly, the LED will illuminate when in close proximity to the
detectable target.
Crank or Flywheel Trigger Ignition Will Work
on Virtually Any Single- or Multi-Cylinder Gas Engine.
-
For a one cylinder engine, only one detector/trigger screw, pin or magnet
will need to be installed in/on the ignition disc, flywheel, hub, etc.
-
For a two cylinder engine, two detector/trigger screws, pins or magnets will
need to be installed precisely 180º apart in/on the ignition
disc, flywheel, hub, etc. (360 ÷ 2 = 180)
-
For a three cylinder engine, three detector/trigger screws, pins or magnets
will need to be installed precisely 120º apart in/on the ignition
disc, flywheel, hub, etc.(360 ÷ 3 = 120)
-
For a four cylinder engine, four detector/trigger screws, pins or magnets
will need to be installed precisely 90º apart in/on the ignition
disc, flywheel, hub, etc. (360 ÷ 4 = 90)
-
For a five cylinder engine, five detector/trigger screws, pins or magnets
will need to be installed precisely 72º apart in/on the ignition
disc, flywheel, hub, etc. (360 ÷ 5 = 72)
-
For a six cylinder engine, six detector/trigger screws, pins or magnets will
need to be installed precisely 60º apart in/on the ignition disc,
flywheel, hub, etc. (360 ÷ 6 = 60)
-
For an eight cylinder engine, eight detector/trigger screws, pins or magnets
will need to be installed precisely 45º apart in/on the ignition
disc, flywheel, hub, etc. (360 ÷ 8 = 45)
-
For a ten cylinder engine, ten detector/trigger screws, pins or magnets will
need to be installed precisely 36º apart in/on the ignition disc,
flywheel, hub, etc. (360 ÷ 10 = 36)
-
For a twelve cylinder engine, twelve detector/trigger screws, pins or magnets
will need to be installed precisely 30º apart in/on the ignition
disc, flywheel, hub, etc. (360 ÷ 12 = 30)
-
The detector/trigger screws or pins will need to be set so the ignition timing
will be properly advanced at all times so the engine will produce full power.
-
Each detector/trigger screw or pin is installed in the disc exactly when
the matching piston is at so many degrees before top dead center. An adjustable
ignition disc with slotted bolt holes to adjust or precisely set the timing
can be used, too.
-
And for all of these engines, one
magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire inductive
proximity sensor, one electronic ignition control module and an
ignition coil for each cylinder or one
GM DIS (Distributorless Ignition System) ignition coil
for every two cylinders will need to be used. Connect the wires for multiple
coils (for a multi-cylinder engine) as follows: Connect the battery (+) positive
wire to the (+) terminal on each coil, then the coil's negative (–)
terminal to the specified terminal or wire on the module.
Degree Increments for a Super Spacer or Rotary Table with a Self-Centering
3-Jaw Chuck -
This chart is for installing multiple detector/trigger screws or pins
in the ignition disc for the crank/flywheel trigger
ignition. It also comes in handy for drilling 5 holes in axle flanges
and other things.
NOTE: The degrees shown is not for the spark to occur at 0º TDC for
each cylinder. They are so each cylinder will have equal timing or distance
of spark between them.
| Number of holes to be drilled - |
1st |
2nd |
3rd |
4th |
5th |
6th |
7th |
8th |
9th |
| For a 2 cylinder engine or 2 holes |
0º |
180º |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| For a 3 cylinder engine or 3 holes |
0º |
120º |
240º |
|
|
|
|
|
|
| For a 4 cylinder engine or 4 holes |
0º |
90º |
180º |
270º |
|
|
|
|
|
| For 5 holes |
0º |
72º |
144º |
216º |
288º |
|
|
|
|
| For a 6 cylinder engine or 6 holes |
0º |
60º |
120º |
180º |
240º |
300º |
|
|
|
| For an 8 cylinder engine or 8 holes |
0º |
45º |
90º |
135º |
180º |
225º |
270º |
315º |
|
| For 9 holes |
0º |
40º |
80º |
120º |
160º |
200º |
240º |
280º |
320º |
In a multi-cylinder engine, when each detector/trigger target (screw or pin)
is equally spaced apart in the ignition disc and the timing for each screw
is precisely aligned when its piston is at whatever degrees BTDC it's supported
be, they will fire at whatever degrees BTDC for that piston. It wouldn't
matter if a screw creates a spark when the piston that isn't aligned with
it or near TDC because there wouldn't be any compression at the position.
It'll be a multiple, but wasted spark. This is why MSD
(MSD Performance)
stands for Multiple Spark Discharge.
When using a magnetic pickup coil or a normally
open 3-wire inductive proximity sensor for a multi-cylinder engine, a
steel go kart sprocket can be used as the trigger disc.
The pickup coil or sensor will detect the [raised] sprocket teeth as the
triggering objects. And being sprocket teeth are equally spaced apart, they're
already degreed in. Use an even number teeth sprocket for an even numbered
spark engine, and an odd number teeth sprocket for an odd numbered spark
engine. Just grind away the teeth between the ones that needs to make the
spark for each cylinder. But be sure to grind away the metal so the disc
will maintain perfect balance.
Crank/flywheel trigger ignition will spark on
the compression stroke for each piston when used on a multiple cylinder engine.
It'll also work excellent on any 2-cycle engine, because it fires on every
stroke of the piston. On a twin or two cylinder engine, use just one Chrysler
or Ford electronic ignition control module/unit (ICU) , one
magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire inductive
proximity sensor, one detector/trigger target (screw or pin) in
the ignition disc located at approximately 20º BTDC on the compression
for the #1 cylinder. It'll spark for the #2 cylinder at 20º BTDC on
the compression stroke, too. And you could install two standard-output automotive
ignition coils, one for each cylinder. Wire them together as you would for
one coil. As the detector/trigger target (screw or pin) pass the pickup coil,
a spark will be produced for each cylinder, one piston being on the compression
stroke and the other on the exhaust stroke and vice-versa. It'll work identically
the same as Briggs & Stratton's Magnetron™ ignition on their twin cylinder
flathead (valves in block) engines. Because the flathead Briggs twins use
a single ignition coil. By the way, the stock timing on Briggs engines for
gas is set at 11º BTDC.
To advance the timing for methanol fuel, a special-made 3/16"
square
offset flywheel key must be used. Offset flywheel keys
are originally made for racing go-karts and Junior Dragsters with the 5hp
Briggs & Stratton engine. They come in 2º, 4º, 6º and
8º increments. Do a
Google search for an offset flywheel key. Use the 6º
key for a setting of 17º BTDC (11º + 6º = 17º).
A special-made key stock will need to be used when advancing
the ignition timing on an engine that use a woodruff flywheel
key (Kohler Magnum).
For a Kohler Magnum or any other make of engine with fixed solid state ignition,
to advance the ignition timing when burning either E-85 or methanol fuel,
either an
offset flywheel key will need to be installed, or a new
keyway will need to be
broached in the flywheel taper a several degrees advanced
from the original keyway. Precise calculation will need to be made to determine
the amount of offset in the key, or where the new keyway should be. If cutting
a new keyway, the original keyway will need to be filled-in with either
bronze brazing or steel stock the same width as the keyway
silver-soldered in place to prevent the metal from breaking next to the original
keyway when broaching the new keyway slot.
For crank/flywheel trigger ignition to work on
a V-twin small gas engine (B&S Vanguard, Honda, Kawasaki, Kohler Command,
etc.), one magnetic pickup coil will need to be used per cylinder and use
one control module with dual coils or a
GM DIS (Distributorless Ignition System) coil. Position
each pickup coil in place where the original ignition coils. And because
of the magnet in the flywheel, a different [steel] flywheel will need to
used, or replace the magnet with a piece of secured steel weighing the same
as the magnet or have the flywheel rebalanced. Then install one detector/trigger
target (screw, pin) in the flywheel where the magnet was so the ignition
will be in time with each magnetic pickup coil.
If installed correctly, nothing could possibly go wrong with the
crank/flywheel trigger ignition system. Mainly
because everything is totally sealed. There's no moving parts to wear and
it could very well outlast the life of a typical tractor, even when used
in high performance conditions! It's virtually maintenance free, extremely
reliable. That's why auto manufacturers, virtually all small engine manufacturers
(Kohler's Magnum engines ignition system operates much like
crank/flywheel trigger ignition) and most high
performance/racing vehicles nowadays use electronic [or better yet, computerized]
ignition. Plus it's something fancy to show off. It's powered by full 12
volts and features a more stable spark than the convention point ignition.
You can also use your existing standard ignition coil. And remember, a
high-output/performance ignition coil will draw more power from the battery.
Crank/flywheel trigger ignition will work on
virtually any small engine, but only if there's room on the crankshaft
(preferably the PTO end, which is opposite the flywheel end) for mounting
of the rotating disc that contains the detector/trigger target (screw, pin,
magnet, or small raised area on the rotating disc) (see below
Ê). The detector/trigger screw(s)
or small magnet can also be fastened onto the factory flywheel. Be sure to
allow the head of [each] screw extend approximately 1/8" above the outer
edge of the flywheel to prevent an out of time spark occurrence. And when
mounting the magnetic pickup coil
or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor, make sure it's mounted rigid
and stable to prevent erratic timing fluctuations.
On a single cylinder engine, this type of ignition will produce a spark on
both the compression and exhaust strokes, which is harmless. Camshaft driven
point ignitions only spark during the compression stroke. By the way, Kohler
engine is mentioned here only as an example, because they're most common
in garden tractor pulling.
The crank/flywheel trigger ignition system is
nothing to be afraid of. Once you understand how it works, it's actually
quite simple and you'd feel more confident using it. Also, once you've tried
this type of ignition, you'd be reluctant to go back to points. If the
crank/flywheel trigger ignition is installed
correctly on an engine and the timing is set right, it'll bring a pulling
tractor to life and help it scream down the track! But if an engine already
have a factory-installed solid state ignition that is triggered off the flywheel,
you really don't need crank/flywheel trigger
ignition. Factory-installed flywheel-triggered ignitions are very stable,
reliable and they produce a strong spark. But if you're installing a machined
steel flywheel with no detector/trigger magnets or pins on an engine that
originally came with solid state ignition and/or there's no provisions (no
threaded bolt holes present) on the block to install points, you will need
the crank/flywheel trigger ignition system.
Degreeing
the ignition disc -
To simplify degreeing the ignition disc, after finding true 0º TDC on
the disc, use a 6" protractor to make timing degree marks on the disc. Refer
to the animated drawing to the right for identification. Hold the protractor
on the disc, align the 0º TDC mark on the disc with the zero on the
protractor, and then, facing the disc as if it were mounted on the PTO end
of the engine, and with the
magnetic pickup coil
or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor mounted either above
the disc or on the side of the engine block, make the marks on the disc going
counterclockwise 
of the TDC mark. Going
counterclockwise of the 0º TDC mark
would be advancing the ignition timing, and clockwise
of the 0º TDC mark would be retarding
it. Degree it as shown in the drawing to the left. But make sure that the
marks on the disc are according to how the disc is going to be mounted on
the crankshaft, with the center protruding hub facing toward the engine or
away from it. Otherwise, the marks could be on the wrong side of the disc.
(Most of the time, the protruding part of the hub face away from the engine.)
The ignition disc doesn't have to be made of aluminum. If there's a steel
hub or disc mounted on the end of the crankshaft, it could be used to trigger
the ignition. As long as the head(s) of the detector/trigger target(s) is/are
higher than the outer edge of the [steel] hub, the
magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire inductive
proximity sensor will detect it/them and not the hub or disc.
NOTE: The detector/trigger target (screw or pin) can be located anywhere
in the ignition disc, as long as it's positioned 20º BTDC. Find the
true 0º TDC on the disc, then locate the 20º BTDC position from
there. On an engine that runs clockwise when facing the front of the engine
(flywheel or harmonic balancer), with the disc on the PTO end of the crank,
and when facing the PTO end, the 20º position will be
counterclockwise from the 0º
TDC mark. On flywheel end, the 20º BTDC position is clockwise
from 0º TDC.
Use a Sprocket as an Ignition Disc -
If you don't have a capabilities to machine your own ignition disc, then
using a steel
sprocket with all but one tooth removed should work excellent.
Just make sure the sprocket is perfectly round and balanced so the engine
won't vibrate. Use a
Weld-A-Sprocket hub or some type of hub to securely fasten
the sprocket disc to for correct alignment of the ignition timing. And as
long as the single tooth is extended a minimum of 3/16" higher than or above
the rest of the disc, and the disc is not oblong or egg-shaped, the sensor
should detect it instead of the disc. And as for the diameter of the disc,
for most engines, a 6" diameter disc works well. But just to make sure for
any particular engine, figure where the sensor will be mounted and then measure
out from the center of the crankshaft to the end of the sensor.
Set the ignition timing according
to piston travel in the cylinder, as
mentioned earlier in this web page. Install a timing degree indicator
mark (with a felt marker) on the disc and a mark on the engine block, then
make a final check of the ignition timing with engine running using an inductive
strobe timing light. The timing light connects to the battery and spark plug
wire.
How It Works:
The
magnetic pickup coil
or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor is able to detect the
presence of the detector/trigger target (screw, pin, small magnet, or small
raised area on the rotating disc) without any physical contact. Each time
the detector/trigger target in the rotating disc passes the magnetic pickup
coil or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor, this generates a small electrical
current within the pickup coil or sensor. This current is sent in the form
of a signal to the electronic ignition control module/unit (ICU) ; within,
a transistor opens the primary circuit in the ignition coil and the spark
occurs. All this happens at the speed of electricity, which can be anywhere
from about 50% to 99% of the speed of light, depending upon the quality of
the circuitry and wire connections. Each module provides unlimited RPM. The
conventional ignition points and condenser/capacitor ignition system is less
responsive.
Checking for Spark -
Because this system produces a spark at very low cranking speeds,
once installed, you can check for spark simply by rotating the crankshaft
(rotating disc) back and forth by hand so the steel detector/trigger target
(screw, pin, small magnet, or small raised area on the rotating disc) pass
the magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire
inductive proximity sensor. But turn the ignition switch on first.
Also, after the engine is ran, and because there may be some raw fuel remaining
in the combustion chamber, crank/flywheel trigger
ignition will produce a single spark each time the ignition switch is
turned on. Sometimes this spark will make the engine go "POOF", which is
harmless in most cases.
How to Test if a GM HEI 4-pin, Chrysler (w/ballast resistor) or Ford
Electronic Ignition Control Module/Unit is Functioning or Not -
To test if a GM HEI 4-pin, Chrysler
(w/ballast resistor) or Ford electronic ignition control module is functioning
or not, connect a fully charged 1.5 volt [flashlight] battery to the two
terminals on the module that connects to the
magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire inductive
proximity sensor (being there's no polarity in these modules,
it doesn't matter which of the two terminals is connected to the battery,
but disconnect the pickup coil first!) and connect the other terminals/wires
on the module as shown in the diagrams above. With the battery connected,
a constant, continuous array of sparks should result at the spark plug's
tip. Don't connect the battery to the magnetic pickup coil! It'll burn
it up! This test proves only if the module is functioning or not. It
won't show if it's in good working condition. (FYI - The continuous spark
would come in handy as a temporary or replacement pilot light, such as to
ignite a burner in a gas stove/heater or
forced air heater when the factory igniter unit has failed.)
And don't use a 12 volt automotive portable battery charger alone to supply
the power to check for spark or test a module. If a battery charger is used,
the crank/flywheel trigger ignition system may
produce a constant, continuous array of sparks at the spark plug's tip even
when the magnetic pickup coil or
3-wire inductive proximity sensor (or 1.5 volt battery) isn't
connected. Battery chargers constantly switch between high to low voltage
at 60 cycles per second. The crank/flywheel trigger
ignition module sees this as the ignition being switched on and off,
resulting in the constant, continuous array of sparks described above. Therefore,
only a fully charged 12 volt battery should be used for testing.
How to Check for Spark with the GM HEI 4-pin, Chrysler (w/ballast resistor)
or Ford Modules -
After either ignition system is installed on the engine and power is supplied,
simply rotate the flywheel, pulley, etc., containing the detector/trigger
target (screw, pin, small magnet, or small raised area on the rotating disc)
on the crankshaft back and forth by hand. Each time the screw passes the
sensor, spark should occur. NOTE: Do not use a battery charger alone to
perform this test. Battery chargers constantly switch between high and low
voltage at 60 cycles per second, and the module sees this as the ignition
being switched on and off resulting in a continuous, constant array of
sparks. By the way - I have not received any complaints from our customers
or the readers of this website concerning the
crank/flywheel trigger ignition about their engine(s)
running erratic or misfiring at high RPM, unless of course, the sensor has
too much clearance or they installed a defective module.
The simple way to set the ignition timing STATICALLY (engine not running)
for the GM HEI 4-pin, Chrysler (w/ballast resistor) or Ford modules -
-
Rotate the crankshaft by hand to align the timing marks or timing tape on
flywheel or starter pulley with the pointer to set the timing where it needs
to be.
-
With the locking collar w/detector magnet loose on the crankshaft,
rotate the ring by hand to align the magnet with the center of the sensor/module.
-
Securely tighten the Allen set screw and the engine can now be started.
How to accurately set the ignition timing STATICALLY (engine not running)
for the GM HEI 4-pin, Chrysler (w/ballast resistor) or Ford modules -
(This is also how to test if the module is functioning or not.)
-
Connect the wires correctly for the sensor/module as specified in this website
with a fully charged 12 volt battery connected in the circuit.
-
Connect a 12 volt test light or multimeter [set on the 12 volt reading] between
the negative (–) coil terminal and engine/chassis ground. The light
should be off or the multimeter should show no voltage reading.
-
Rotate the crankshaft to position the flywheel, pulley, etc., with the desired
timing mark aligned with the timing pointer or indicator on the engine. This
is close to where the timing needs to be set.
-
If using a locking magnet or screw head ring, with the Allen set screw loose
in the ring, rotate the ring side to side by hand when the detector/trigger
(screw, pin, small magnet, or small raised area on the rotating disc) is
centered with the magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor.
-
For the magnetic pickup coil, the light should flicker or the multimeter
should momentarily display approximate battery voltage (digital meter) or
the needle should bounce (analog meter). It is at this point when spark occurs.
-
For the 3-wire inductive proximity sensor, the light should stay on or the
multimeter should show approximate battery voltage. The LED in the 3-wire
inductive proximity sensor can also be used for this test. It is at this
point when spark occurs.
-
Tighten the Allen set screw in the ring on the crankshaft. The ignition timing
is now set close to where it needs to be.
How to precisely set the ignition timing DYNAMICALLY (engine running)
with an automotive inductive timing light for the GM HEI 4-pin, Chrysler
(w/ballast resistor) or Ford modules. (This is the most accurate way
to set the timing.) NOTE: Timing can be checked, but not set while the
engine is running!
-
Start the engine, shine the timing light on the timing mark on the flywheel,
pulley, etc., in relation with the pointer on the engine block to see exactly
where the timing needs to be set.
-
If the timing is not set correctly, shut off the engine and loosen the Allen
set screw in the locking collar w/detector magnet, or move the
magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire inductive
proximity sensor one way or the other in the slot to advance or
retard the timing, and tighten the Allen set screw in the ring, or magnetic
pickup coil or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor.
-
Start the engine again, shine the timing light to see if the timing is set
exactly where it needs to be.
-
Repeat steps 1, 2 and 3 if necessary until the timing is set exactly where
it needs to be, and securely tighten the Allen set screw, or magnetic pickup
coil or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor.
-
No further adjustments are required.
Advertisement: Return to previous paragraph
or website.
| If you need any of the parts or services listed below
Ê, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136
USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313
(shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays),
9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When
speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's
shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends (except Holidays).
Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest.
Please click here
to place an order. You can also make the drive to A-1 Miller's shop to
personally drop off and pick up your engine, transaxle, tractor, etc. for
rebuilding or repairs. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never
long." |
| FYI - I can install a crank or flywheel
trigger ignition system and/or rewire your lawn & garden tractor, equipment
or garden pulling tractor so all the electrical accessories will work and
the engine will start quickly every time. I have the knowledge, skills, all
the tools and parts necessary to perform a quality job. I've rewired many
customer's lawn & garden tractor/equipment or garden pulling tractor
with great results. If you're interested, my phone numbers, address and
directions to my shop are above È. -
Brian Miller |
|
100% Digital Crank Trigger Ignition Kits with Self-Contained
Dynatek Dyna S or PerTronix Ignitor
Sensor/Modules for Single- or Opposed Twin-Cylinder Engines - (Updated
3/30/17)
A new way to revolutionize the
ignition system on virtually any small gas engine! Virtually trouble- and
maintenance-free, and water-proof. These ignition modules/sensors is a small,
lightweight, compact and completely self-contained electronic ignition system
built with the latest state-of-the-art engineering with the use of
microelectronics. Fits entirely on the PTO end of the engine block; no ignition
box and additional wiring to clutter the engine compartment because the
electronic ignition control module and pickup coil/sensor are contained in
the same sealed casing. The Dynatek Dyna S and PerTronix Ignitor sensor/modules
will allow the engine to idle smoothly and accelerate quickly to full speed
(wide
open throttle) with no hesitation or misfire.
The Dynatek Dyna S sensor/module operates on 12-1/2 to 15 volts negative
ground, and requires an ignition coil with a 3.0 ohm resistor. And the PerTronix
Ignitor sensor/module operates on 8 to 15 volts negative ground, and also
require an ignition coil with a 3.0 ohm resistor. Using a coil with either
sensor/module with less than total of 3.0 ohms of primary resistance for
a long period of time will cause them to overheat and the engine may misfire
until it cools down, or the sensor/module might fail prematurely. A
suppression/carbon core or metal core spark plug wire, and/or resistor-type
or non-resistor/copper core spark plug can be used. If the voltage drops
below the minimum requirement for either sensor/module, the engine may idle
well, but not accelerate, or the engine may run erratic. Either module/sensor
can be used with a standard-output or high-output/performance ignition coil,
as long as the coil has a 3.0 ohm internal primary resistor, or a ballast
resistor is connected that totals 3.0 ohms of resistance. NOTE: A metal core
spark plug wire can be used with either sensor/module. Being metal core spark
plug wires do not suppress electro magnetic interference (EMI) which will
interfere with electronics in the PerTronix Ignitor, if engine runs erratic
or misfires, then a suppression/carbon core spark plug wire should be used
instead.
These crank trigger ignition setups have been thoroughly tested and proven
very reliable for general lawn & garden use, and all classes of single
and twin cylinder competition pulling engines. One sensor/module is needed
for an opposed twin cylinder engine, and two modules/sensors spaced
exactly at 90º apart are required for V-twin engines. These are
the same ignition used by professional pullers everywhere. Reliable at high
RPMs, the Dynatek Dyna S or PerTronix Ignitor modules provides unlimited
RPM. They allow the ignition system to operate at the speed of electricity,
which can be anywhere from about 50% to 99% of the speed of light, depending
upon the quality of the circuitry and wire connections.
Spark occurs when a small and super strong neodymium/rare earth magnet embedded
in an aluminum locking ring, which is much like an automotive
reluctor
ring, that's fastened on the crankshaft's PTO end pass the sensor/module.
(Neodymium and rare earth magnets are the strongest available. Five times
stronger than ceramic (ferrite) magnets for a stronger detection.) Either
sensor/module packs a lot of punch and allows the ignition system operate
at 100% efficiency for a stronger spark.
Dynatek Dyna S and PerTronix Ignitor Crank Trigger Ignition Installation
Instructions -
Unlike the competitor's, our universal flat mounting plate can be adapted
for use on various makes and models of one or two cylinder (twin opposing
cylinders) engines by drilling new mounting holes. And being there are so
many different bolt patterns on the PTO end of Kohler and other makes and
models of engines, these are not a simple "one kit fits all" bolt-on ignition
kit. Therefore, customer will need to locate and drill holes in the mounting
plate in alignment with the bolt holes on the PTO end of the engine block.
If there are no bolt hole(s) on the PTO end of the block, they will need
to be drilled and
tapped. Minimum of 1/4" bolts can be used. Locate and drill (machine)
slotted adjustment holes in the mounting plate, fasten plate to PTO end of
engine block. And then drill and cut 4-40 UNC threads in the mounting plate
for positioning/clearance of the sensor/module clearance to the locking collar
w/detector magnet. Additional spacing of modules/sensor may be required so
magnet will be aligned with the center of the sensor on various applications.
The air gap/clearance between the sensor/module and locking collar w/detector
magnet is .010"-.060". Sensor/module may not operate or engine may misfire
if gap is wider than .060". When mounting the GM HEI module, always fasten
it with
dielectric, thermal or heat sink grease/paste on a clean,
flat aluminum plate with plenty of fresh air circulation to dissipate the
heat while in operation. NOTE: Do not allow
sensor/module to make contact with locking collar w/detector magnet while
engine is running!
NOTE: The Dynatek Dyna S
and PerTronix Ignitor crank trigger ignition kits just below
Ê installs and operate off the PTO end
of the engine block, and is intended for competition pulling only. For crank
trigger ignition kits that installs and operate off the flywheel end of the
engine recommended mainly for ordinary lawn & garden equipment, click
HERE.
Easy Wiring Connections for the Dynatek Dyna S sensor/module.
Wires must NOT be connected in reverse or
sensor/module will burn up instantly when power is supplied!
-
 If the sensor/module has
RED and BLACK color wires:
-
Connect Red wire to positive (+) coil
terminal and ignition switch (battery positive (+) post).
-
Connect Black wire to negative (–) coil terminal. If you're
using the grounding-type of killswitch, connect the wire from the killswitch
to this terminal.
-
Connect metal base of sensor/module to engine/chassis ground (battery negative
(–) post.
-
If the sensor/module has RED and WHITE
color wires:
-
Connect Red wire to positive (+) coil
terminal and ignition switch (battery positive (+) post).
-
Connect White wire to negative (–) coil terminal. If you're using
the grounding-type of killswitch, connect the wire from the killswitch to
this terminal.
-
Connect metal base of sensor/module to engine/chassis ground (battery negative
(–) post).
-
If the sensor/module has BLUE and WHITE
color wires:
-
Connect White wire to positive (+) coil terminal and ignition switch (battery
positive (+) post).
-
Connect Blue wire to negative (–)
coil terminal. If you're using the grounding-type of killswitch, connect
the wire from the killswitch to this terminal.
-
Connect metal base of sensor/module to engine/chassis ground (battery negative
(–) post).
  Dynatek Dyna
S Complete Custom Install-It-Yourself Kit. Each kit includes the Dynatek
Dyna S non-magnetic sensor/module, 1/8" x 1-1/2" x 4-1/2" or 1/8" x 3" x
4-1/2" (depending on bolt pattern on engine block) flat steel mounting plate,
locking collar w/detector magnet with embedded detector/trigger magnet and
Allen set screw, two 4-40 UNC Allen head screws and nylon strap w/screw to
secure wires to mounting plate. Please email picture of bolt pattern on
engine block and specify diameter of crankshaft PTO end for locking collar
w/detector magnet. $90.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
Click here to print out these installation
and timing instructions.
Dynatek Dyna S non-magnetic sensor/module. Must be used with locking
collar w/detector magnet and with minimum 3.0 ohm coil regardless of the
voltage output. And if wire connections are reversed on coil terminals and
power is supplied, the Dyna S module will burn up instantly!
$70.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Aluminum Locking Collar w/Detector Magnet with Allen Set Screw. Please
specify diameter of crankshaft PTO end for locking collar w/detector magnet.
Most common diameters are 1" and 1-1/8", but 3/4", 1-1/4", 1-3/8", 1-7/16"
and 1-1/2" are rare. And most billet steel crankshafts have a 1-1/2" diameter
PTO end (raised shoulder). Locking magnet rings measures: 3/4" i.d. x 1-1/4"
o.d., 1" i.d. x 1-1/2" o.d., 1-1/8" i.d. x 1-3/4" o.d., 1-1/4" i.d. x 2"
o.d., 1-3/8" i.d. x 2-1/8" o.d., 1-7/16" i.d. x 2-1/4" o.d., 1-1/2" i.d.
x 2-1/4" o.d. Other sizes available. $15.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
 PerTronix Ignitor
1 and 2 Complete Custom Install-It-Yourself Kits. Each kit includes the
non-magnetic PerTronix Ignitor sensor/module, 1/8" thick x 1-1/2" height
x 4-1/2" wide or 1/8" thick x 3" height x 4-1/2" wide (depending on bolt
pattern on engine block) flat aluminum mounting plate, locking collar w/detector
magnet, two 4-40 UNC Phillips head screws w/lock washers and nylon strap
w/screw to secure wires to mounting plate. Please email picture of bolt
pattern on engine block and specify diameter of crankshaft PTO end for locking
collar w/detector magnet. Click
here to print out these installation and timing instructions.
-
Kit with Non-Magnetic PerTronix Ignitor (black) sensor/module. Must
be used with locking collar w/detector magnet and with minimum 3.0 ohm coil
regardless of the voltage output. And if red and black wire connections are
reversed and power is supplied, the Ignitor 1 module will burn up instantly!
$70.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
-
Kit with Non-Magnetic PerTronix Ignitor II (red) sensor/module. Can
be used with virtually any coil regardless of the ohms resistance or voltage
output, and with locking collar w/detector magnet. Automatically shuts off
if ignition switch is left on with engine not running for long period of
time. And if red and black wire connections are reversed and power is supplied,
the Ignitor II module will NOT burn up. There will just be no spark.
$90.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
Locking Magnet Ring. Please specify diameter of crankshaft PTO end
for locking collar w/detector magnet. Most common diameters are 1" and 1-1/8",
but 3/4", 1-1/4", 1-3/8", 1-7/16" and 1-1/2" are rare. And most billet steel
crankshafts have a 1-1/2" diameter PTO end (raised shoulder). Locking magnet
rings measures: 3/4" i.d. x 1-1/4" o.d., 1" i.d. x 1-1/2" o.d., 1-1/8" i.d.
x 1-3/4" o.d., 1-1/4" i.d. x 2" o.d., 1-3/8" i.d. x 2-1/8" o.d., 1-7/16"
i.d. x 2-1/4" o.d., 1-1/2" i.d. x 2-1/4" o.d. Other sizes available.
$15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Easy Wiring Connections for the PerTronix Ignitor 1 and 2
sensors/modules. IMPORTANT: Wires must NOT be
connected in reverse or sensor/module may burn up instantly when power is
supplied!
-
Connect RED wire to positive (+) coil
terminal and ignition switch (battery positive (+) post).
-
Connect BLACK wire to negative (–) coil terminal. If you're
using the grounding-type of killswitch, connect the wire from the killswitch
to this terminal.
-
Connect base of sensor/module to engine/chassis ground (battery negative
(–) post).
 (Posted
9/13/17) Self-Contained, High Performance Crank Trigger Ignition Kit for
Various Competition Pulling Engines. Kit will include: PerTronix Ignitor
2 sensor/module, 30,000 volt epoxy-encapsulated armature frame ignition coil,
10-1/2" length spark plug wire and locking collar w/detector magnet (please
indicate diameter of PTO shaft when ordering). Ignitor and coil will be pre-wired
and fastened on a durable 6061-T6 flat aluminum plate that mounts to the
PTO end of the engine
block,
and require 12 volts of power with
one
wire hook up. Compact design - coil will be positioned/mounted directly above
the ignition
module
with
one
wire hook up. Produces a very strong spark. Kit will be made specifically
for competition pulling engines only with nothing installed on the PTO end
of the crankshaft; not for general lawn and garden engines. Concept and design
invented by Brian Miller. Price: $160.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
Picture of complete kit will be posted here soon.
 Crank Trigger Electronic Ignition Kit with GM HEI 4-Pin
Electronic Ignition Control Module and Cube-Shaped High-Output Inductive
3-Wire Proximity Sensor. Now the ordinary/stock GM HEI electronic ignition
control module lives up to its name, High Energy Ignition! This high
performance ignition kit is mainly for competition pulling only and mounts
on PTO end of engine block. Kit includes: Aluminum mounting plate, nylon
zip tie to secure wires of sensor to mounting plate, two female wire crimp
plug-on connectors and 1.5 ohm canister ignition coil w/mounting bracket
and 13" suppression/carbon core spark plug wire, copper core spark plug and
locking collar w/detector screw. Please specify diameter of crankshaft PTO
end for locking collar w/detector screw. Proximity sensor will be prewired
to module. Just install, set air gap/clearance at .015" and connect the
C terminal on the module to the coil negative (–) terminal, and
the B terminal on the module to the coil positive (+) terminal.
Click here for wiring diagrams. This
system requires a high-output proximity sensor that sends more energy to
an ordinary/stock GM HEI module to produce a strong spark so the engine will
idle smooth and accelerate quickly to full speed (wide open throttle) with
no hesitation or misfire. This is a thoroughly tested and proven reliable
ignition system invented by Brian Miller for ordinary lawn & garden engines
and competition pulling engines.
-
$80.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
(Posted
9/5/17) Self-Contained, High Performance Crank Trigger Ignition Kit for Various
Single Cylinder Competition Pulling Engines. Includes: Cube-shaped high-output
inductive 3-wire proximity sensor, GM HEI module, 30,000 volt epoxy-encapsulated
armature frame ignition coil, and locking collar w/detector screw (please
indicate diameter of PTO shaft when ordering). Ignition parts will be pre-wired
and fastened on a 6061-T6 flat aluminum plate that mounts on the PTO end
of the engine block, and require 12 volts of power with one wire hook up.
Compact design - coil will be positioned/mounted directly above the ignition
module. Produces a very strong spark. This system works similar to the ignition
on the Chevrolet fuel injected LS V8 engines, except without a
computer-controlled timing retard or advance. Kit made specifically for single
cylinder competition pulling engines only with nothing installed on the PTO
end of the crankshaft; not for general lawn and garden engines. Concept and
design invented by Brian Miller. Price: $165.00 per kit, plus shipping &
handling. Picture of complete kit will be posted here
soon.
How to Check for Spark and Set the Timing for the Dynatek Dyna S and PerTronix
Ignitor module/sensors - After either setup is installed on the engine
and power is supplied, simply rotate the locking collar w/detector magnet
(loose) on the crankshaft back and forth by hand. Each time the embedded
detector/trigger magnet pass the sensor/module, spark should occur. NOTE:
Do not use a battery charger alone to perform this test. Battery chargers
constantly switch between high and low voltage at 60 cycles per second, and
the module sees this as the ignition being switched on and off resulting
in a continuous, constant array of sparks.
The simple way to set the ignition timing STATICALLY (engine not running)
for either sensor/module -
-
Rotate the crankshaft by hand to align the timing marks or timing tape on
flywheel or starter pulley with the pointer to set the timing where it needs
to be.
-
With the locking collar w/detector magnet loose on the crankshaft,
rotate the ring by hand to align the magnet with the center of the sensor/module.
-
Securely tighten the Allen set screw and the engine can now be started.
How to accurately set the ignition timing STATICALLY for the Dynatek Dyna
S, PerTronix Ignitor and 3-Wire Inductive Proximity Sensor/Module -
(This is also how to test if the sensor/modules or the ignition system
is functioning or not.)
-
Connect the wires correctly for either sensor/module as specified above with
a fully charged 12 volt battery connected in the circuit. NOTE: Do not
use a battery charger alone to perform this test. Battery chargers constantly
switch between high and low voltage at 60 cycles per second, and the module
sees this as the ignition being switched on and off resulting in a continuous,
constant array of sparks.
-
Connect a battery-powered
test light or
multimeter [set on the 12 volt reading] between the negative
(–) coil terminal and engine/chassis ground.
-
For the non-magnetic Dyna S or Ignitor modules and 3-wire inductive
proximity sensor, with the magnet in the locking ring not centered or aligned
with the sensor in the module, the light should be off or the multimeter
should show no voltage.
-
For the magnetic Ignitor module, with the screw head in the locking
ring not centered or aligned with the sensor in the module, the light should
illuminate or the multimeter should show approximate battery voltage.
-
Rotate the crankshaft to position the flywheel or starter pulley with the
desired timing mark aligned with the timing pointer or indicator on the engine.
This is close to where the timing needs to be set.
-
With the Allen set screw loose in the locking ring, again...
-
For the non-magnetic Dyna S or Ignitor modules and 3-wire inductive
proximity sensor, with the magnet in the locking ring centered or aligned
with the sensor in the module, the light should illuminate or the multimeter
should show approximate battery voltage. It is at this point when spark occurs.
-
For the magnetic Ignitor module, with the screw head in the locking
ring centered or aligned with the sensor in the module, the light should
be off or the multimeter should show no voltage. It is at this point when
spark occurs.
-
Tighten the Allen set screw in the ring on the crankshaft. The ignition timing
is now set close to where it needs to be.
-
Something cool to show off: To make a 12 volt in-dash indicator light
or LED flash while cranking the engine and illuminate while the engine is
running, for the Dyna S, Ignitor modules or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor
connected to the HEI, Chrysler or Ford module, connect the light or LED to
the negative (–) coil terminal and engine/chassis ground. The LED may
shine bright, but the light will be dimly lit. The light or LED will not
effect the performance of the ignition system whatsoever. It'll also let
you know if the ignition system is working or not.
How to precisely set the ignition timing DYNAMICALLY (engine running)
with an automotive inductive timing light for either sensor/module. (This
is the most accurate way to set the timing.) NOTE: Timing can be checked,
but not set while the engine is running! Do
not allow sensor/module to make contact with locking collar w/detector magnet
while engine is running! -
-
Start the engine, shine the timing light on the timing mark on the flywheel
or starter pulley in relation with the pointer on the engine block to see
where the timing needs to be set. NOTE: Do not use a battery charger alone
to perform this test. Battery chargers constantly switch between high and
low voltage at 60 cycles per second, and the module sees this as the ignition
being switched on and off resulting in a continuous, constant array of
sparks.
-
If the timing is not set correctly, shut off the engine and loosen the Allen
set screw in the locking ring, slightly rotate crankshaft by hand one way
or the other to advance or retard the timing, and position the ring with
the magnet or screw head centered with the sensor in the module, and tighten
the Allen set screw.
-
Start the engine again, shine the timing light on the timing mark on the
flywheel or starter pulley in relation with the pointer on the engine block
to see if the timing is set where it needs to be.
-
Repeat steps 1, 2 and 3 if necessary until the timing is set exactly where
it needs to be, and securely tighten the Allen set screw.
-
No further adjustments are required.
Electronic Ignition Systems That Operate
Off the Flywheel End of a Small Engine (Updated 7/10/17)
Get That Old Small Engine Running Again With 21st Century Technology Using
100% Digital Electronic Ignition, Even When New Replacement Parts Are Obsolete
or Cost-Prohibited!
This is the era of modern wonders, where everything is transistorized, digitized
and miniaturized. Yet even today, many garden tractor pullers still use breaker
point ignitions on their garden pulling tractors. For other people, the
frustration of attempting to keep a breaker point-fired tractor in peak running
condition has been enough of a reason to join the electronic era. Breaker
point systems do have some positives, though. Points are cheap and somewhat
easy to install. And many people are comfortable with installing their own
points. The bad side of using points is, besides the points contacts burning,
pitting and wearing out, if or when the point gap gets too narrow, the ignition
timing can get retarded, and when it gets too wide, the timing will become
too advanced.
When the timing is retarded, the engine may be difficult to start, and when
does start, it may not idle well, and it'll lack sufficient power. Also,
with retarded timing, all of the fuel in the combustion chamber will not
be burned. Part of the raw fuel will exit out of the exhaust, while the rest
will remain in the chamber combustion and cling to the cylinder wall, causing
the lubricating oil (from the crankcase) to become diluted. When this happens,
"cylinder wash down"
will result. Cylinder
wash down is when the gas dilutes the thin coat of oil on the cylinder
wall, and the piston rings will no longer be adequately lubricated, causing
them to wear excessively, resulting in a smoky engine overtime.
Cylinder wash down
can also happen to a diesel engine when the fuel injectors are "turned up"
or fuel delivery is increased so the engine will produce more power. (It
will also blow a lot more black smoke out the exhaust.)
But when the ignition timing is too advanced, this will cause the engine
to run too hot, which will likely cause the piston to swell, allowing it
to make metal to metal contact against the cylinder wall, causing excessive
wear. And the rings will lose their expansion against the cylinder wall as
well. Eventually, due to the lose-fitting piston in the cylinder, the engine
will create a rattling sound and start smoking out the exhaust, and it will
ultimately need to be rebuilt.
If installed correctly, when the ignition is triggered off the flywheel,
it stabilizes the ignition timing, so you won't ever have to worry about
it. The engine will produce more power and you will have more confidence
that the engine will last longer. So for the utmost precision ignition timing
and maintenance-free convenience, flywheel trigger
ignition is the way to go! It will allow the engine to idle smoothly
and accelerate quickly to full speed
(wide
open throttle) with no hesitation or misfire.
Tired of changing or constantly adjusting the ignition points? Convert to
the 100% digitized flywheel trigger ignition!
For improved performance, easier starting, and less moving parts to leave
your tractor dead on the track. Shock and moisture resistant, and all it
takes is a few simple hand tools to install. In my opinion, getting rid of
the points and condenser/capacitor has been the best advance ever in engine
technology.
 |
 |
  If a Kohler flywheel has no projection (hump) for Breakerless
Ignition, but does have a 3/4" wide area between the fins and ring gear (as
shown in the pictures above È), or a
billet steel flywheel, to use a magnetic pickup coil, 3-wire inductive proximity
sensor, a small, short hardened steel Phillips or button head socket head
(Allen) screw secured with a split lock washer or
high strength liquid threadlocker
(Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent) can be
used as the signal detection for the flywheel trigger electronic ignition.
The curvature or dome shaped heads of button- and Phillips-head screws makes
them ideal for use on a trigger disc or flywheel.
With the magnetic pickup coil or
cube-shaped proximity sensor installed on
the bearing plate and the 20º BTDC mark on the flywheel aligned with
the raised mark on the bearing plate, install the target bolt or screw on
the flywheel centered with the magnetic pickup coil or
proximity sensor. Install the screw
head extended a minimum of 1/4" above the surface of the flywheel to prevent
an out of time spark occurrence by the flywheel itself. Or if using a
non-magnetic pickup coil, 3-wire hall effect proximity sensor or a non-magnetic
PerTronix Ignitor sensor/module, a small ring magnet fastened by a small
[hardened] screw can be used to create a rotating magnet detection target.
The head of the retaining screw will become magnetized. An 8-32 UNC and 10-32
UNF x 1/2" length screws with a split lock washer (and small magnet) only
weighs about 1/10 of an ounce or 3 grams, so this will not make the flywheel
significantly noticeably or dangerously out of balance. But if you're concerned
about the flywheel being out of balance with the target screw/bolt, pin or
screw w/ring magnet installed, the flywheel can be static balanced by weighing
the flywheel and screw/bolt, pin or screw w/ring magnet separately on a precision
scale, make a note of the exact weight of each item, and then drill a couple
of shallow holes into the flywheel next to or beside the installed target
screw/bolt, pin or screw w/ring magnet to put the flywheel back in balance.
Make sure the flywheel is perfectly clean of dirt and debris, too! Actually,
it's best to have the flywheel with the target screw/bolt, pin or screw w/ring
magnet installed dynamically precision spin-balanced on a automotive balancing
machine. Again, make sure the flywheel is perfectly clean of dirt and debris,
too! A steel dowel pin or knurled steel pin could be used instead of a screw
or spiral pin, but because of exerted centrifugal force, the screw would
be more secure due to its thread retention. And for the ignition timing to
be set at 20º BTDC, with the S and raised boss (timing
marks) on the bearing plate aligned, the screw will need to be located at
2-3/8" when using a magnetic pickup coil, and 3-1/2" to 4" when using a proximity
sensor. This setup can be adapted to a Kohler engine with the flywheel that
has the starter/generator and gear starter alike. Or it can be applied to
an engine with a steel flywheel for competition pulling. And the mounting
holes in the angled bracket for the magnetic pickup coil can be elongated
for precise adjustment/setting of the timing.
If there's already a projection (hump) on
the flywheel, then there's no need to modify the flywheel for this conversion
or upgrade. If they're not already present, new 10-24 UNC threads will need
to be drilled and tapped in the two raised bosses in the bearing plate to
mount the bracket for the sensor's bracket. An original, ingenious,
thoroughly researched and innovative concept invented by Brian Miller, because
nobody else advertise this for use on a small engine. Please accept no other
advertised copycat products of this kind.
  Flywheel Trigger
Ignition Kit for Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301,
K321 and K341 with a small (8") flywheel and starter/generator. This
simple and reliable ignition system kit produces a very strong spark, and
the ignition timing will always be set at 20º BTDC, or wherever you
set it. This system can be used on lawn & garden or stock competition
pulling engines, with a cast iron or [8"] steel flywheel. Kit includes a
non-magnetic PerTronix Ignitor sensor/module, aluminum channel spacer w/drilled
holes and mounting screws, small neodymium/rare earth ring magnet, rubber
cushioning washer and hardened mounting screw. The Ignitor must be used with
a minimum 3.0 ohm coil or it may burn up. And being metal core spark plug
wires do not suppress electro magnetic interference (EMI) which will interfere
with the electronics in the PerTronix Ignitor, if the engine runs erratic
or misfires, then a suppression/carbon core spark plug wire should be used
instead. NOTE: Neodymium and rare earth magnets are the strongest available.
Five times stronger than ceramic (ferrite) magnets for stronger detection.
So be extra careful when handling neodymium/rare earth magnets. They are
very brittle and can break when snapped onto something or when the screw
is overtightened. $75.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
Directions to install this kit...
-
Align or center the S timing mark on the flywheel with the timing
site hole in the bearing plate, and draw a line on the edge of and lengthways
with the flywheel at the 10:30 position.
-
Draw another line 1" from the bearing plate crossways with the line on the
flywheel. The magnet will install where the two lines intersect. This
spot will allow the magnet to clear the flywheel shroud mounting boss on
the bearing plate at the 4:30 position.
-
Drill and tap 6-32
UNF threads in the flywheel and install the magnet with the supplied cushioning
washer and screw where the two drawn lines intersect. IMPORTANT: Install
the cushioning washer between the magnet and flywheel, and secure the screw
with
high strength liquid threadlocker
(Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent). And install
the ring magnet with the depression facing the flywheel. The ignition
will not work otherwise.
-
Thoroughly clean the bearing plate, and with the S mark on the flywheel
aligned or centered with the timing site hole in the bearing plate, center
the Ignitor with the magnet, allow .010"-.060" clearance, mark on the bearing
plate and drill and
tap 6-32 UNC threads in the bearing plate to mount the Ignitor and spacer.
Be sure to apply
dielectric, thermal or heat sink grease/paste between the
Ignitor and aluminum spacer to help cool the module, and securely fasten
the Ignitor/block to the bearing plate with the supplied 6-32 UNC screws
and split lock washers. Do not allow the module to make contact with the
magnet/screw while engine is running!
-
Drill a 1/4" or 3/8" hole through the bearing plate behind the Ignitor and
route the wires from the Ignitor to the ignition coil. Wallow out the drilled
hole or use a rubber grommet to prevent the insulation on the wires from
rubbing and possibly being shorted, or apply RTV silicone sealant in the
hole to hold the wires rigid.
-
Disconnect and do away with the wires to the points and condenser. Connect
the BLACK wire on the Ignitor to the coil negative (–) terminal,
and connect the RED wire on the Ignitor
to the coil positive (+) terminal and to the ignition switch (battery positive
(+) post). IMPORTANT: If the wires are connected in reverse, the Ignitor
will burn up instantly when power is supplied!
-
Spark plug should be gapped at .035". Turn on the ignition switch, rotate
the flywheel back and forth by hand or crank the engine with the
starter/generator, and observe for a strong, blue spark at the spark plug's
tip. An original, ingenious, thoroughly researched and innovative concept
invented by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this for use on a
small engine. Please accept no other advertised copycat products of this
kind. Click here to print out these
installation instructions.
Electronic Ignition Kits (Below) for Converting from Breakerless Ignition
or Points/Condenser Ignition to Flywheel Trigger Ignition for Kohler engine
models K241, K301 or K321. (K341 and K361 engines originally did not come
with Breakerless Ignition.) Do away with the old fashioned points and
condenser ignition, or defective and cost-prohibitive Breakerless Ignition
components, and convert your engine to the reliability, dependability and
durability of flywheel trigger ignition. NOTE:
These flywheel trigger ignition parts do not install on the PTO end of the
crankshaft and engine block. Instead, they install next to the flywheel on
the OEM bearing plate. To replace the points/condenser with flywheel trigger,
engine can have the small bearing plate with two drilled holes to install
the triggering device and 8" flywheel with a small screw/bolt (for magnetic
pickup coil or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor) or a small ring magnet
(for the non-magnetic PerTronix Ignitor sensor/module installed on edge of
flywheel in a specific place for timing purposes and to trigger the ignition,
OR engine can have the large bearing plate with two mounting bosses to install
the triggering device and 9" flywheel with 3/4" wide area with the OEM projection
(hump) or small screw/bolt (for magnetic pickup coil), or small ring magnet
(for non-magnetic PerTronix Ignitor sensor/module installed on edge of flywheel
in a specific place for timing purposes and to trigger the
ignition. Must use
a universal battery ignition key switch, or an OFF/ON toggle- or key-switch
(for ignition) and push-button starter switches for either ignition system
listed below Ê. NOTE: No need to remove
the brass welch plug from points pushrod hole. Ignition timing will be set
at 20º BTDC with kit, and reuse same type of spark plug, but set gap
at .035". An original, ingenious, thoroughly researched and innovative concept
invented by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this for use on a
small engine. Please accept no other advertised copycat products of this
kind. IMPORTANT: The wire that comes from
the stator under the flywheel for Kohler Trigger Module or Tecumseh Solid
State Ignition Module generates about 250 volts while the engine is running
at full governored speed (serious). Do not touch this wire (terminal) with
one bare hand and the engine itself with your other hand while the engine
is running! It is not needed any of my flywheel trigger ignition systems.
So snip off this wire or tape up the terminal to prevent a short circuit
or electrocution.
-
Flywheel Trigger
Electronic Ignition Kit to Convert from Breakerless Ignition. Includes: New
cube-shaped high-output 3-wire inductive proximity sensor w/mounting adapter
and two Allen head mounting screws (mounts in place of Trigger Module next
to flywheel); new high quality ordinary/stock GM HEI electronic ignition
control module w/dielectric grease (mounts on backside of bearing plate),
four slip-on crimp wire connectors, two wire clamps and two 8-32 UNF
self-threading mounting screws (requires two #29 or 9/64" drilled holes and
T-20 Torx bit); new 1.5 ohm canister ignition coil w/mounting
bracket (mounts in place of Breakerless coil on side of engine); new 11"
suppression/carbon core spark plug wire and new Autolite 216 spark plug.
-
$110.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
-
Flywheel Trigger Electronic Ignition Kit to Convert from Breakerless Ignition.
Includes: New 3/8" x 1" magnetic pickup coil w/mounting adapter and screws
(mounts in place of Trigger Module next to flywheel); new high quality
high-output/performance GM HEI electronic ignition control module w/dielectric
grease (mounts on backside of bearing plate), four slip-on crimp wire connectors,
two wire clamps and two 8-32 UNF self-threading mounting screws (requires
two #29 or 9/64" drilled holes and
T-20 Torx bit); new 1.0 ohm canister ignition coil w/mounting
bracket (mounts in place of Breakerless coil on side of engine); new 11"
metal core spark plug wire and new Autolite 216 spark plug.
-
$144.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
-
Flywheel Trigger Electronic Ignition Kit to Convert from Breakerless Ignition.
Includes: New 3/8" x 1" magnetic pickup coil w/mounting adapter and hardware,
new Chrysler electronic ignition control module/unit w/ballast resistor,
new standard-output (20,000 volt) canister ignition coil with 1.5 ohm internal
primary resistor and mounting bracket, and new 11" suppression/carbon core
spark plug wire and new Autolite 216 spark plug.
-
$151.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
-
Flywheel Trigger Electronic Ignition Kit to Convert from Breakerless Ignition.
Includes: New 3/8" x 1" magnetic pickup coil w/mounting adapter and hardware,
new Ford electronic ignition control module/unit, new standard-output (20,000
volt) canister ignition coil with 1.5 ohm internal primary resistor and mounting
bracket, and new 11" suppression/carbon core spark plug wire and new Autolite
216 spark plug.
-
$151.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
Points Pushrod/Plunger Hole
Plugs and Block-Off Plate. Use either of the items below
Ê to plug or block-off the points
pushrod/plunger hole in Briggs & Stratton or Kohler engines when doing
away with the points and condenser/capacitor, and converting engine for use
with a Universal Solid State Ignition Module,
flywheel trigger electronic ignition or from
Kohler K-series ignition to Kohler Magnum solid state ignition. Use needle-nose
pliers to hold the plug and a small hammer to tap it in the hole in the block.
Fits very tight. For the block-off plate, use RTV silicone sealant to prevent
oil leaking and OEM points mounting screws to secure in place. Cup plug no
longer available from Kohler (25 139 51-S).
NOTE: Instead of using
any of these items, remove the points and points pushrod. Place the pushrod
on a flat, hard surface, and use a sharp cold chisel and hammer to lightly
create some knurled raised places on it. Then insert the pushrod in the block
and it may need to driven in with the hammer. The knurled places will retain
the pushrod in the block. An original, ingenious, thoroughly
researched and innovative concept invented by Brian Miller, because nobody
else advertise these for use on a Kohler engine. Please accept no other
advertised copycat products of this kind..
-
3/16" Plug. Fits all single cylinder Kohler K-series and K482, K532 and K582
opposed twin cylinder engines. OEM Briggs & Stratton part # 692882.
$6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
17/64" Plug. Fits Briggs & Stratton opposed twin cylinder engines, and
can be used for Kohler opposed twin cylinder engine models KT17, KT17 series
2, KT19 and KT19 Series II with points pushrod hole drilled-out (enlarged)
to 17/64" (.2656") diameter x .3/8" deep for this plug to fit snug. OEM Briggs
& Stratton part # 231262. $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Block-Off Plate. Made of 1/8" steel. A-1 Miller part. $4.00 each,
plus shipping & handling. Return
to previous page or paragraph.
NOW AVAILABLE! (Updated 6/9/17) Several
specifically designed kits to convert a cast iron block Tecumseh engine model
VH80, VH100, HH80, HH100, HH120, OH140, OH150, OH160 or OH180 that originally
came with an OEM solid state ignition module to reliable flywheel trigger
ignition. Convert engine to flywheel trigger electronic ignition when OEM
module fail to produce a spark. Ignition timing is preset, but air
gap/clearance between sensor and short firing pin needs to be set at .010"-.020"
clearance. Replaces Tecumseh CDI system part #'s 610-748, 610-855, 610-906
and John Deere part # AM31741.
 Flywheel Trigger Electronic
Ignition Kit designed for Tecumseh engine models VH80, VH100, HH80, HH100,
HH120, OH140, OH150, OH160 and OH180. Mounts in place of OEM solid state
ignition module. With 15/32" (12mm) diameter normally open 3-wire inductive
proximity sensor, nylon zip tie to secure wires to body of proximity sensor,
angle aluminum mounting adapter w/two 1/4-20 UNC x 1/2" long Phillips head
screws and lock washers, Ford electronic ignition control module/unit w/mounting
screws and ignition coil w/1.5 ohm internal primary resistor and mounting
bracket, and 13" suppression/carbon core spark plug wire.
Click
here for wiring diagrams. IMPORTANT:
The wire that comes from the stator under the flywheel for Kohler Trigger
Module or Tecumseh Solid State Ignition Module generates about 250 volts
while the engine is running at full governored speed (serious). Do not touch
this wire (terminal) with one bare hand and the engine itself with your other
hand while the engine is running! It is not needed for any of my flywheel
trigger electronic ignition systems. So snip off this wire or tape up the
terminal to prevent a short circuit or electrocution. Replaces
Tecumseh CDI system part #'s 610-748, 610-855, 610-906 and John Deere part
# AM31741.
-
$80.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
Flywheel Trigger Electronic Ignition Kit designed for Tecumseh engine models
VH80, VH100, HH80, HH100, HH120, OH140, OH150, OH160 and OH180. Mounts in
place of OEM solid state ignition module. With 15/32" (12mm) diameter normally
open 3-wire inductive proximity sensor, nylon zip tie to secure wires to
body of proximity sensor, angle aluminum mounting adapter w/two 1/4-20 UNC
x 1/2" long Phillips head screws and lock washers, Chrysler electronic ignition
control module/unit w/ballast resistor and four female plug-in wire crimp
connectors, and ignition coil w/1.5 ohm internal primary resistor and mounting
bracket, and 13" suppression/carbon core spark plug wire.
Click
here for wiring diagrams. IMPORTANT:
The wire that comes from the stator under the flywheel for Kohler Trigger
Module or Tecumseh Solid State Ignition Module generates about 250 volts
while the engine is running at full governored speed (serious). Do not touch
this wire (terminal) with one bare hand and the engine itself with your other
hand while the engine is running! It is not needed for any of my flywheel
trigger electronic ignition systems. So snip off this wire or tape up the
terminal to prevent a short circuit or electrocution. Replaces
Tecumseh CDI system part #'s 610-748, 610-855, 610-906 and John Deere part
# AM31741.
-
$96.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
Flywheel Trigger Electronic Ignition Kit designed for Tecumseh engine models
VH80, VH100, HH80, HH100, HH120, OH140, OH150, OH160 and OH180. Mounts in
place of OEM solid state ignition module. With 3/8" diameter magnetic pickup
coil, angle aluminum mounting adapter w/two 1/4-20 UNC x 1/2" long Phillips
head screws and lock washers, Chrysler electronic ignition control module/unit
w/ballast resistor and four female plug-in wire crimp connectors, and ignition
coil w/1.5 ohm internal primary resistor and mounting bracket, suppression/carbon
core spark plug wire, and nylon zip tie to secure wires to body of pickup
coil, , and 13" suppression/carbon core spark plug wire.
Click
here for wiring diagrams. IMPORTANT:
The wire that comes from the stator under the flywheel for Kohler Trigger
Module or Tecumseh Solid State Ignition Module generates about 250 volts
while the engine is running at full governored speed (serious). Do not touch
this wire (terminal) with one bare hand and the engine itself with your other
hand while the engine is running! It is not needed for any of my flywheel
trigger electronic ignition systems. So snip off this wire or tape up the
terminal to prevent a short circuit or electrocution. Replaces
Tecumseh CDI system part #'s 610-748, 610-855, 610-906 and John Deere part
# AM31741.
-
$116.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
 Flywheel Trigger Electronic Ignition Kits with GM HEI 4-Pin
Electronic Ignition Control Module and Magnetic Pickup Coil or Cube-Shaped
High-Output 3-Wire Inductive Proximity Sensor. Now the ordinary/stock
GM HEI electronic ignition control module lives up to its name, High Energy
Ignition! Designed for Tecumseh engine models VH80, VH100, HH80, HH100,
HH120, OH140, OH150, OH160 and OH180. Either ignition kit mounts in place
of OEM solid state ignition module, and requires 12 volts of power. Each
kit includes: New GM HEI electronic ignition control module, new cube-shaped,
high-output 3-wire inductive proximity sensor or magnetic pickup coil, fastened
to aluminum mounting plate, black and red wires to connect to coil, new 1.0
or 1.5 ohm canister-type ignition coil w/mounting bracket (mounts on outside
of engine), new 13" suppression/carbon core or metal core spark plug wire
and copper core spark plug (Autolite 295 or Champion J8C). Proximity sensor
or magnetic pickup coil will be prewired to module. Installation: Set air
gap/clearance at .015", connect the Black wire (C terminal on module)
to the coil negative (–) terminal, and the Red wire (B terminal
on module) to the coil positive (+) terminal and ignition switch.
Click here for wiring diagram.
IMPORTANT: The wire that comes from the stator
under the flywheel for Kohler Trigger Module or Tecumseh Solid State Ignition
Module generates about 250 volts while the engine is running at full governored
speed (serious). Do not touch this wire (terminal) with one bare hand and
the engine itself with your other hand while the engine is running! It is
not needed for any of my flywheel trigger electronic ignition systems. So
snip off this wire or tape up the terminal to prevent a short circuit or
electrocution. Each kit below replaces Tecumseh CDI system
part #'s 610-748, 610-855, 610-906 and John Deere part # AM31741.
-
Kit with cube-shaped, high-output 3-wire inductive proximity sensor and high
quality ordinary/stock GM HEI electronic ignition control module. (Shown
above.) $100.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
-
Kit with magnetic pickup coil and high quality high-output/performance GM
HEI electronic ignition control module. (Picture coming soon.) $125.00
per kit, plus shipping & handling.
(Posted
8/8/17) Self-Contained Flywheel Trigger Electronic Ignition Kits designed
for Tecumseh engine models VH80, VH100, HH80, HH100, HH120, OH140, OH150,
OH160 and OH180. Each kit requires 12 volts of power with one wire hook up.
Compact design - coil positioned/mounted over ignition module. No external
coil required. These systems works similar to the reliable ignition used
on the Chevrolet LS V8 engines, except without a computer-controlled timing
advance or retard. Picture of each complete kit will be posted here soon.
Each kit below replaces Tecumseh CDI system part #'s 610-748, 610-855, 610-906
and John Deere part # AM31741. FYI - The great thing about my Tecumseh
replacement ignition kits is, if the stator (behind the flywheel) that's
used to power the OEM solid state module and my competitor's replacement
CDI system goes bad, you're out of luck because they are no longer available
new, and you take a chance on finding a good used one. But being my ignition
kits are powered by a 12 volt battery, batteries will always be available.
Concept and design invented by Brian
Miller.
-
Kits with cube-shaped high-output
3-wire inductive proximity sensor, high quality ordinary/stock GM HEI 4-pin
electronic ignition control module, and 30,000 volt epoxy-encapsulated
armature-frame ignition coil, ignition parts will be pre-wired and fastened
onto a 6061-T6 aluminum plate that mounts in place of the OEM Tecumseh solid
state ignition module.
-
Kit for VH80, VH100, HH80,
HH100 and HH120 flathead engines. $250.00 per kit, plus shipping &
handling.
-
Kit for OH140, OH150, OH160
and OH180 Over Head Valve engines. $250.00 per kit, plus shipping &
handling.
  Flywheel Trigger Electronic Ignition Kits designed for
Tecumseh engine models VH80, VH100, HH80, HH100, HH120, OH140, OH150, OH160
and OH180. Mounts in place of OEM Tecumseh solid state ignition module. An
original, ingenious, thoroughly researched and innovative concept invented
by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this for use on a small engine.
Please accept no other advertised copycat products of this kind.
IMPORTANT: The wire that comes from the stator
under the flywheel for Kohler Trigger Module or Tecumseh Solid State Ignition
Module generates about 250 volts while the engine is running at full governored
speed (serious). Do not touch this wire (terminal) with one bare hand and
the engine itself with your other hand while the engine is running! It is
not needed for any of my flywheel trigger electronic ignition systems. So
snip off this wire or tape up the terminal to prevent a short circuit or
electrocution. Each kit below replaces Tecumseh CDI system
part #'s 610-748, 610-855, 610-906 and John Deere part # AM31741.
-
Kit with non-magnetic PerTronix Ignitor sensor/module. Detects small magnet
in flywheel; drive long OEM pin flush with surface of flywheel with brass
hammer, and replace the short OEM pin with supplied magnet. Install magnet
about 3/16" above the surface of the flywheel. Kit includes: non-magnetic
PerTronix Ignitor sensor/module fastened to aluminum mounting plate, two
1/4-20 UNC x 1/2" long Phillips head screws w/lock washers, small neodymium/rare
earth magnet, ignition coil w/3.0 ohm internal primary resistor w/mounting
bracket, suppression/carbon core spark plug wire, and nylon zip tie to secure
module wires to mounting plate. $106.00 per kit, plus shipping &
handling.
-
Kit with magnetic PerTronix Ignitor sensor/module. Detects OEM short steel
pin in flywheel; drive long OEM pin flush with surface of flywheel with
brass hammer. Includes: magnetic PerTronix Ignitor sensor/module fastened
to aluminum mounting plate, two 1/4-20 UNC x 1/2" long Phillips head screws
w/lock washers, ignition coil w/3.0 ohm internal primary resistor and mounting
bracket, suppression/carbon core spark plug wire, and nylon zip tie to secure
module wires to mounting plate. $146.00 per kit, plus shipping &
handling.
|
3-Wire Inductive and Hall Effect Proximity Sensors
| Magnetic Pickup Coils
Magnetic pickup coils and proximity sensors are very sensitive
to mechanical damage (and electrical damage if connected wrong).
For magnetic pickup coils, set the air gap/clearance
from the detection/trigger target (screw, pin or small raised area on the
rotating disc) at .010"-.060" with a brass, plastic, business card, poster
board, stainless steel (anything non-magnetic) feeler gauge. And being
3-wire inductive proximity sensors have a farther
detection range, set the air gap/clearance at .010"-.188". If the gap is
wider than specified with either sensor, the engine could have no spark or
misfire at higher RPM. To prevent the possibility of an out of time spark
occurrence, the detector target needs to be a minimum of 3/16" higher than
or above the circumference surface of a steel or cast iron rotating disc
or flywheel. Direct metal contact with either sensor could damage them.
When in doubt if a sensor is mechanically damaged, look at the end
of it with the strong magnifying glass to see any damage. If it is damaged,
it needs to be replaced. A magnetic pickup coil can be tested with
a digital multimeter set on 200m DC, with the negative lead of the meter
on the white wire of the pickup coil and positive lead on the black wire,
then pass a small steel screw or bolt over the end of the magnetic pickup
coil. If the meter shows a reading, the pickup coil is in good
condition. |
 Normally Open 3-Wire
Inductive Proximity Sensor for flywheel trigger electronic
ignition. Recommended for use with the Chrysler and Ford electronic
ignition control module/units. Detects head of small ferrous metal (steel)
screw or bolt fastened to rotating disc or flywheel to generate power in
sensor. Spark will occur when aligned with head of steel screw (Kohler. etc.)
or pin (Tecumseh) in rotating disc or flywheel. Wide operating temperature
range. Epoxy encapsulated, mechanically rugged. Impervious to dirt, oil and
water. No maintenance required. Sensor is capable of powering flywheel trigger
electronic ignition and digital tachometer at the same time. Durable metal
shielded threads with two stainless steel thin
jam nuts
and three, 10 foot long wire leads. Dimensions of each item below: 15/32"
(12mm) diameter x 1-3/8" thread length. Some proximity sensors have an LED
(Light Emitting Diode) on the rear of unit. If the proximity sensor is wired
incorrectly, the LED will stay on and go off when activated. Being
3-wire inductive proximity sensors have a farther
detection range, set the air gap/clearance at .010"-.188". Direct metal contact
with either sensor will damage them. And if the gap is wider than specified,
the engine could have no spark or misfire at higher RPM. To prevent the
possibility of an out of time spark occurrence, the detector target needs
to be a minimum of 3/16" higher than or above the circumference surface of
a steel or cast iron rotating disc or flywheel.
Click here for wiring diagrams.
  Magnetic Pickup Coils for flywheel trigger electronic
ignition. All magnetic pickup coils are normally open. Detects head
of small ferrous metal (steel) screw or bolt fastened to rotating disc or
flywheel to generate power in magnetic pickup coil. Install screw head extended
minimum 3/16" higher than or above the surface of the flywheel to prevent
an out of time spark occurrence by the flywheel itself. Wide operating
temperature range. Epoxy encapsulated, mechanically rugged. Impervious to
dirt, oil and water. No maintenance required. Self-generating power. Durable
metal shielded threads with two
jam nuts.
Please specify size when ordering. Can be used with a steel bracket without
interference of magnetism. By the way - The 3/8" magnetic pickup coil works
exactly the same as the 5/8" ones. There is absolutely no difference in
performance. The 3/8" one can be used where space is limited, and the 5/8"
one can be used where space is no problem. Set the air gap/clearance
from the detection/trigger target (screw, pin or small raised area on the
rotating disc) at .010"-.020" with a brass, plastic, business card, poster
board or anything non-magnetic feeler gauge.
Click here for wiring diagrams.
-
3/8" diameter x 1" thread length housing, w/two, 7-1/2" length wire leads.
Can be used with the high-output/performance GM HEI module w/1.0 ohm coil,
or with the Chrysler or Ford electronic ignition control module/units.
$60.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
3/8" diameter x 2-3/16" thread length housing, w/two, 7-1/2" length wire
leads. Can be used with the high-output/performance GM HEI module w/1.0 ohm
coil, or with the Chrysler or Ford electronic ignition control module/units.
$60.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
5/8" diameter x 2-1/8" thread length housing, w/two, 10 foot long wire leads.
Recommended for use with the Chrysler or Ford electronic ignition control
module/units. $50.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Return to previous paragraph or
website.
|
Detector/Trigger Target
Screws for Flywheel Trigger Ignition. Install on the edge of an aluminum
or steel locking ring, disc or flywheel when using a magnetic pickup coil
or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor. The curvature or dome shaped heads
of button- and Phillips-head screws makes them ideal for use as a
detector/trigger target on a trigger disc or flywheel. Secure in place with
a split lock washer and/or
high strength liquid threadlocker
(Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent). An
original, ingenious, thoroughly researched and innovative concept invented
by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this for use on a small engine.
Please accept no other advertised copycat products of this kind.
-
Hardened Steel Phillips Head Screw. 10-32 UNF x 3/8" length.
.30¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Button Head Socket Head (Allen) Screw. 10-32 UNF x 3/8" length x 3/8" head
diameter. .50¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
Detector/Trigger Target
Neodymium/Rare Earth Ring Magnet, Rubber Cushioning Washer and Hardened Steel
Retaining Screw for Flywheel Trigger Ignition. Fasten magnet w/screw on the
edge of aluminum or steel disc, or flywheel when using a non-magnetic pickup
coil, 3-wire hall effect proximity sensor or non-magnetic PerTronix Ignitor
sensor/module. Head of screw will become magnetized. NOTE: Neodymium and
rare earth magnets are the strongest available. Five times stronger than
ceramic (ferrite) magnets for stronger detection. Be extra careful when handling
neodymium/rare earth magnets. They are very brittle and can break when snapped
onto something or when the screw is tightened too much. Install the
cushioning washer between the magnet and flywheel, and secure the screw with
high strength liquid threadlocker
(Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent). Dimensions
of magnet: 15mm diameter x 5mm center hole x 4mm height. Screw size: 8-32
UNF x 1/2" length. An original, ingenious, thoroughly researched and
innovative concept invented by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise
this for use on a small engine. Please accept no other advertised copycat
products of this kind.
-
$5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
High Quality
High-Output/Performance GM HEI Module. The high-output/performance GM HEI
electronic ignition control module connected to a magnetic pickup coil
(below Ê) works excellent with
an ignition coil that have a 1.0 ohm internal primary resistor, metal core
spark plug wire and non-resistor/copper core spark plug gapped at .025".
This combination of ignition parts produces a strong spark so the engine
will accelerate at full speed. And when mounting the GM HEI module, always
fasten it with
dielectric, thermal or heat sink grease/paste on a
clean, flat aluminum plate with plenty of fresh air circulation to dissipate
the heat and cool the unit while in operation. Wiring diagram coming soon.
-
$30.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
 3/8" Magnetic Pickup Coil w/Mounting
Adapter to Convert from Breakerless Ignition or Points and Condenser and
Upgrade to Flywheel Trigger Electronic Ignition. Fits Kohler K-series K241-K361
engines with the 9" ring gear flywheel w/projection (hump) on flywheel or
3/4" wide area (to install trigger screw) and large bearing plate with the
two bosses for mounting this item, as pictured above. Includes two 10-24
UNC Allen socket head mounting screws and split lock washers. If they're
not already present, new 10-24 UNC threads will need to be drilled and tapped
in the two raised bosses in the bearing plate to mount the bracket for the
sensor's bracket. NOTE: Set air gap/clearance from projection (hump)
on flywheel at .010"-.060" with a brass, plastic, business card, poster board
or anything non-magnetic feeler gauge. Ignition timing will be fixed at 20º
BTDC. Click
here for wiring diagrams. An original, ingenious, thoroughly researched
and innovative concept invented by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise
this for use on a small engine. Please accept no other advertised copycat
products of this kind.
-
$90.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Now the ordinary/stock
GM HEI electronic ignition control module lives up to its name, High Energy
Ignition! When used on a small engine, in order for an ordinary/stock HEI
module allow the engine to accelerate at full speed, it must be used with
the cube-shaped high-output 3-wire inductive proximity sensor, and
can be used with virtually any ignition coil, regardless of the ohms resistance
or voltage output, even with a suppression/carbon core spark plug wire and
resistor spark plug gapped at .035". Sensor is also capable of powering an
HEI flywheel trigger electronic ignition and a digital
tachometer at the same time. This concept
revolutionizes the use of this small, compact and versatile module! This
is a thoroughly tested, researched and proven reliable ignition system invented
by Brian Miller for ordinary lawn & garden engines and competition pulling
engines. And when mounting the GM HEI module, always fasten it with
dielectric, thermal or heat sink grease/paste on a clean,
flat aluminum plate with plenty of fresh air circulation to dissipate the
heat while in operation. Click here for wiring
diagrams. Return to previous section.
IMPORTANT: The wire that comes from the stator
under the flywheel for Kohler Trigger Module or Tecumseh Solid State Ignition
Module generates about 250 volts while the engine is running at full governored
speed (serious). Do not touch this wire (terminal) with one bare hand and
the engine itself with your other hand while the engine is running! It is
not needed for any of my flywheel trigger electronic ignition systems. So
snip off this wire or tape up the terminal to prevent a short circuit or
electrocution.
-
High Quality Ordinary/Stock GM HEI module. $15.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
Cube-Shaped High-Output 3-Wire Inductive Proximity Sensor Without Mounting
Adapter and Screws. (Customer fabricates own mounting adapter.)
$20.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Cube-Shaped High-Output 3-Wire Inductive Proximity Sensor With Mounting Adapter
and Screws. $60.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
New High Quality Chrysler
/ Dodge / Plymouth Electronic Ignition Control Module/Unit for flywheel trigger
electronic ignition. Requires a minimum 1.2 ohm ballast resistor to prevent
burning up module. Click here to learn
how to check the resistor in a coil or ballast resistor. This module
can be used with the magnetic pickup coil or proximity sensor and virtually
any ignition coil, regardless of the ohms resistance or voltage output, and
will allow the engine to idle smoothly and accelerate quickly to full speed
(wide open throttle) with no hesitation or misfire.
Click here for wiring diagrams.
-
$25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
New 1.6 ohm Ballast Resistor
for use with Chrysler module (above È)
to prevent burning up module, or ballast resistor can be used with a 12 volt
ignition coil with low ohm internal primary resistor to prevent excessive
burning of point contacts.
-
$8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
New High Quality Ford /
Mercury / Lincoln Electronic Ignition Control Module/Unit for flywheel trigger
electronic ignition. Operates with full 12 volts. Requires no ballast resistor.
This module can be used with the magnetic pickup coil or proximity sensor
and virtually any ignition coil, regardless of the ohms resistance or voltage
output, and will allow the engine to idle smoothly and accelerate quickly
to full speed (wide open throttle) with no hesitation or misfire.
Click here for wiring diagrams.
-
$25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
 High
Quality Inductive Wireless Handheld Small Engine Tachometer. A tachometer
helps in setting the correct RPMs of an engine to prevent over-revving and
possible damage to the engine. For gas/spark ignite engines only. Very accurate.
This handheld analog tachometer works great for checking/setting the RPM
on various small engines in the shop, and/or for checking/setting the RPM
[tech] on stock governored engines at pulling events, ATVs/UTVS, etc. Hold
sensor (antenna) close to spark plug wire for reading. Operates off a
self-contained replaceable 9 volt battery. Has built-in battery voltage check.
Reads up to 5,000 RPM on the low scale, and 15,000 RPM on the high scale.
-
$85.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
 High Quality Inductive Digital
Small Engine Tachometer and Hour Meter. A tachometer helps in setting
the correct RPMs of an engine to prevent over-revving and possible damage
to the engine. High quality and very accurate. Large 3/8 inch LCD display.
Works with all spark ignition engines by selecting engine type using S1 and
S2 buttons. Instructions included. Tachometer reads up to 99,999 RPM. Hour
meter reads up to 9999:59 hours/minutes then resets to Zero. Programmable
maintenance hour setting with service icon, a reminder when to change oil
or other service. Can be manually reset to Zero hours. Programmable maintenance
hour setting with service icon, a reminder when to change oil or other service.
Easy installation: Single wire wraps around spark plug wire and secured with
two supplied nylon zip-ties. No wire terminal connections required. Tachometer
can be surface-mounted and secured with two screws. Has built-in battery
rated up to 4 years. Sealed unit; weather and water resistant. Dimensions:
2" wide x 1-3/4" depth x 3/4" height.
-
$20.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
 High Quality Digital
Tachometer/Proximity Sensor Kits. A tachometer helps in setting the correct
RPMs of an engine to prevent over-revving and possible damage to the engine.
Will work with small engines or automotive engines, gas or diesel. This precision
digital tachometer is triggered by the same method as
flywheel trigger electronic
ignition with a proximity sensor to detect a target, which can be a small
ferrous steel screw or pin, or magnet in a rotating disc or on/in flywheel.
A sturdy steel or aluminum bracket will need to be fabricated by customer
to mount the sensor in close proximity of the detector/trigger target. Set
air gap/clearance at .010"-.188". Tachometer can be dash- or panel-mounted.
Tachometer works with 8-24 volts DC, proximity sensors works with 6-36 volts
DC. Dimensions of each proximity sensor below: 15/32" (12mm) diameter x 1-3/8"
thread length. Some proximity sensors have an LED (Light Emitting Diode)
on the rear of unit. If the proximity sensor is wired incorrectly, the LED
will stay on and go off when activated. Displays up to 9,999 RPM. Very accurate.
Tachometer returns to zero [0000] when power is turned off. Wiring Instructions:
#1 wire on tachometer connects to brown wire on (either) proximity sensor
and ignition switch (battery positive (+) post), #2 wire on tachometer connects
to blue wire on (either) proximity sensor and engine/chassis ground (battery
negative (–) post), and #5 wire on tachometer connects to black wire
on (either) proximity sensor. Wires #3 and #4 connects to nothing. Wiring
can also be integrated with crank or flywheel trigger electronic ignition
with a proximity sensor. Choice of
RED or
BLUE numeric display.
-
Tachometer only. To be used with a 3-wire hall effect, inductive or cube-shaped
proximity sensor. $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Complete Tachometer Kit with 3-Wire Hall Effect Proximity Sensor.
$22.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Complete Tachometer Kit with 3-Wire Inductive Proximity Sensor. $25.00
each, plus shipping & handling. Return
to previous section.
|
Using a GM HEI (High Energy Ignition) 4-Pin Module
Ignition Distributor on Older Automotive, Farm-Use, etc., Engines (Hybrid
Ignition System) - Top of page.
If
you have an automotive-type gas engine in an old car, truck, farm tractor,
forklift, construction equipment, boat motor, etc., with a worn out or
troublesome point ignition distributor, and/or parts are no longer available
or if you want to upgrade it to the modern, higher output, trouble- and
maintenance-free electronic ignition system, then all the engine will need
is a battery-powered, non-computer controlled GM HEI distributor (with the
4-pin electronic ignition control module) and spark plug wires from a 1975-84
General Motors vehicle (Chevrolet, Pontiac, Oldsmobile, Buick, Cadillac or
GMC truck) with an L4, L6, V6 or V8 engine. These type of distributors are
considered high performance because they produce a very strong spark (about
40,000 volts to the spark plugs) for quicker starts, smooth idling and more
engine power, and is ideal for use in other makes of engines because the
ignition parts are self-contained; the coil is located in the distributor
cap and the electronic ignition control module is located in the distributor
itself. And there's only one 12 volt wire to power the GM HEI distributor.
A Chevy V8 HEI distributor is shown to the right. The 4 and 6 cylinder engine
distributors are similar. 
And
to get even a stronger spark to the spark plugs, install an
MSD Low Resistance Bushing 8412. This part installs in
the center of the distributor cap, underneath the coil.
If there's not enough space or clearance on an engine for the GM HEI distributor,
a smaller diameter non-computer controlled electronic ignition distributor
from a Ford, Mercury or Lincoln, or Chrysler, Plymouth or Dodge (MOPAR) vehicle
can be used instead. The Ford or MOPAR electronic ignition control module
and ignition coil will need to be mounted elsewhere on the vehicle or equipment,
such as on the firewall or inner fender well. And the spark plug wires that's
designed for these distributors will also be needed. These type of distributors
and ignition systems are also considered high performance because they produce
a very strong spark.
How To Convert It:
-
Cut off the upper half of the old distributor housing and shaft (discard
the upper half). Be sure to cut it close to the distributor head.
-
Cut off the lower half of the GM HEI, Ford or MOPAR distributor housing and
shaft (discard the lower half). Be sure to cut it far from the distributor
head.
-
Machine and adapt the shafts and housings of the lower part of the old
distributor onto the upper half of the modern distributor head, and pin the
two shafts together (like for shortened automotive axles). Scroll down
for information on how to securely pin two shafts together.
-
Connect just one 12 volt wire from the ignition switch to the GM HEI distributor.
And for the Ford or MOPAR ignition systems, connect the wiring as shown above
È in this website for the electronic
ignition control module and ignition coil.
-
The firing order and ignition timing are set the same as for the old
distributor/engine.
-
It'll probably be a lot of work setting it all up, but it'll be worth it
in the long run.
How To Securely "Pin" Two Shafts Together:
-
Carefully measure each shaft
to the length they need to be, then cut each in half.
-
In a small metal lathe (with a self-centering 3-jaw chuck), in one of the
shafts, bore a hole .625" (5/8") deep in the end of the shaft that needs
to be joined to the other shaft. The diameter of the hole is to be determined
by the outside diameter of the shaft.
-
In the lathe, and on the other shaft, turn down a stub that's in .750" (3/4")
in length. Be sure to machine the stub .003" larger so it'll be a press
fit for the shaft with the hole. Bevel the stub so it'll press in straight
and easy.
-
Using a hydraulic press, carefully press the two shafts together, leaving
an 1/8" gap for a bead of weld. But first align the shafts so the rotor
cap will point to the # 1 cylinder on the distributor cap when the distributor
is installed in the engine.
-
Thoroughly weld the two shafts together, and grind away any lumps of weld
so the shaft will slide in the distributor housing(s) (that have been joined
together also) with no problems.
Advertisement:
If you wish to have your Kohler stock or pulling engine tested on
a
dynamometer
(dyno), please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old
Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am
to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When
speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's
shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends (except Holidays).
Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest.
A-1 Miller's Fully Computerized Stuska
Water Brake Engine Dynamometer (Dyno) Service with DPM Data Logger
Software!
 For performance testing engines
up to 200hp at speeds up to 12,000 RPM. The only engine dyno service in Missouri
for Kohler pulling engines! Now set up and fully operational, customers can
rent dyno time, fine tune and make adjustments or changes to their engines
for maximum horsepower and torque, and print-out the results so their tractor(s)
will be truly competitive on the track.
Engine Dyno Rental Fee: $30.00 per hour run time from the moment the
engine is started. No setup fee for Cub Cadet engines with a 3- or 6-pin/stud
clutch driver. An adapter may need to be needed or fabricated for other makes
and models of engines. Only engines with the narrow base oil pan can be tested.
Engines with the wide base (tall) oil pan cannot be tested at this time. |
To place an order and/or for technical assistance, please
contact:
A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia,
MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday
(except Holidays), 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try
again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends
(except Holidays). Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for
your arrival. Fax:
1-573-449-7347. E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who
don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and
fragile merchandise, you can always make the
long drive to A-1 Miller's shop
to personally drop off and/or pick up your engine, transaxle, tractor, etc.
"The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long."
To place an order, please call the number below
Ê or send an email with your name, complete
and correct postal address and phone number and so I can figure the total
with shipping cost and USPS Tracking. For payment options for parts ordered
or services performed, or to make a donation to my websites, I accept cash
(in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks,
MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total
for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge),
Western
Union Money Transfer, MoneyGram
Money Transfers or Popmoney.
(If a part for a specific purpose is high-output ordered, your debit/credit
card may be charged for the full amount or as a deposit right after your
order is placed; please do not send your debit/credit card information in
email!) Or you can pay me through PayPal. (My PayPal account name is my email
address. And be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment
is for.) If sending a money order, please include a note in the envelope
with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone number and a
description of what the payment is for. My mailing address and phone number
are below Ê . I'll make a note of your
order, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few
days to come in, but I will send the parts to you as soon as I have everything
in stock after I receive your payment.
IMPORTANT - When sending your part(s) to me for
rebuilding or repair, package everything securely so the item(s) won't get
damaged in shipping and please include a note in the box with your name,
mailing address, phone number (in case I have any questions) and a description
of what you want done. When shipping heavy parts, it's best to put a slightly
smaller box inside a larger box, to double the strength and integrity of
the package. Because the clumsy "gorillas" or incompetent and uncaring workers
that work for certain delivery services mishandle the heavy packages and
don't care. And when the work is completed, I'll either call or email you
an invoice with the total including shipping & handling.
To figure the shipping cost, I weigh the package with the parts, then I go
online to the USPS Postage Rate
Calculator website. I type in the weight, my zip code and your zip code,
then it shows me the prices for various ways to ship the package. I always
choose US Postal Service because I believe that's the most fastest, economical
and reliable method.
Shipping: (United States and it's territories)
To save you shipping charges, item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope
weighing less than 13 oz. is sent by First Class Mail for a 2-6 day delivery.
Most packaged item(s) weighing over 13 oz. is sent by US Priority Mail for
a 2-3 day delivery. To save you even more on shipping heavy items, I always
try to use the US Postal Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelope and boxes
(if the item(s) can fit inside the envelope or boxes). Some heavy items weighing
no more than 70 lbs. is sent by US Mail Parcel Post. Item(s) weighing over
70 lbs. is sent by FedEx Ground. Again, if you're the kind of person who
don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and
fragile merchandise, you can always make the
long drive to A-1 Miller's shop
to personally drop off and/or pick up your engine, transaxle, tractor, etc.
We Ship to Canada and Worldwide 
-
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent
by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged
item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service
Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal
Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S.
territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground
or equivalent services.
(When placing an order through PayPal, please provide a list of which
parts you need.)
To make a payment to me through PayPal, go to PayPal's secure website (
https://www.paypal.com/ ) and click
on Send and Request -> Pay for goods or services. Type in my email address,
or copy and paste this: pullingtractor@aol.com, the amount and follow the
directions. Be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment
is for. After you've finished, PayPal will send me an email notifying me
that you have made a payment to me for the product(s) or services and amount
entered. Then I go to their website and direct PayPal to deposit the money
in my bank account. And I will send the parts to you as soon as I receive
your payment. But I may have to order some of the parts if they're not in
stock, which should take a few days. In that case, I will send you the parts
as soon as they come in. PayPal protects your financial privacy and security.
With PayPal, privacy is built in. It's a way for you to pay without exposing
their financial information.
Ã
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Copyright © 1996-Present. This website created, designed and
maintained by Brian Miller.
Updated
8/19/17. (Click
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