Concerning the COVID-19 situation:
A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises is still in business and offering all
the parts and services that's listed in this website. And being business
is overwhelming and that we are short-handed working in a small shop, it
may take longer than usual to process a big order.
Please
acknowledge your appreciation of the information in this website by making
a donation through PayPal or to pay for an order.
Miscellaneous Small Engine and Garden Tractor Pulling Tips
& TricksScroll down, or click on the link to jump down to the subject matter:
- The Importance and Safety of Having Wheelie Bars Installed on a Competition Pulling Tractor
- Using a Quality-Made Pulling Hitch with an Adjustable Drawbar on a Competition Cub Cadet Garden Pulling Tractor or Small Wheel Mini-Rod
- Useful Formulas, Conversion Charts, etc.
- How To Cut New Threads, the Professional Way
Optimized for 1024 x 768 screen resolution. To search for a word or phrase in any of my web sites, press CTRL and F to open the Find dialog box in your web browser. Although every effort has been taken to check the accuracy of information contained herein, I cannot assume responsibility for errors.
The Importance and Safety of Having Wheelie Bars on a Pulling Tractor | [Top of Page]
If a pulling tractor is going
to run a 13" drawbar height with 26x12.00-12 tires, it must have wheelie
bars properly installed, even if a club or pull site doesn't require them.
Because a pulling tractor can flip back so quickly, without warning. The
rear tires are rotating in one direction, which forces the tractor to want
to rotate in the opposite direction. ("For every action, there's an equal
and opposite reaction." -
Newton's third law of motion.) So for safety sake, it's
best to have wheelie bars installed for pulling regardless of the height
of the drawbar or tire size. Wheelie bars are sometimes referred to as a
"no-tip device." Wheelie bars are one of the easiest things to install on
a pulling tractor. Only an idiot or someone with a death wish would pull
a tractor without wheelie bars!
The pads or wheels for the ground contact needs to be of adequate size too, to prevent from sinking into soft earth. The pads need to be a minimum of 3" square x 1/8" thickness and wheels need to be a minimum of 4" diameter x 1" wide. Most pullers prefer to use wheels on the wheelie bars. They allow the tractor to gain an inch or two because they "roll." The pads on the other hand scrape on the ground and doesn't allow the tractor to get much further. And it's a good idea for stock tractors to run a 10" drawbar height anyway to prevent breaking a stock rear end.
For best stability of the tractor when the front end raises upward, most club's rules state that the bottom of the wheelie bar wheels or skid plates are supposed to a maximum of 5" from the ground. And the rear of the wheelie bar wheels or skid plates are supposed to be a minimum of 5" from the tread of the rear tires. Scroll down to see drawing for a better explanation. Check out this YouTube link: When it's important to have wheelie bars on a pulling tractor!
For safety reasons, make your wheelie bar bracket material rigid and not spring-loaded. They must be made of heavy wall (minimum 1/8" thickness) tubing and reinforced for strength. Also, bolt on the wheelie bar brackets and don't weld them to the frame. So they can be adjusted if necessary. See the pictures below Ê for what typical wheelie bar brackets look like:
NOTE: The wheelie bar brackets shown above were
fabricated by the individual who owns each tractor.
And be aware when using flat
aluminum wheelie bar braces. If the tractor were to stop suddenly on the
track, and the sled bumps the rear of the tractor, the braces may bend to
the side from the impact. And straightening them so they'll look original
again is almost impossible. Therefore, we think it's better to use 1-1/2"
x 1-1/2" x 1/8" wall square tubing as wheelie bars. When the sled bumps wheelie
bars made of heavy wall square tubing, the whole rear of the tractor will
move sideways slightly, and the wheelie bars won't suffer any damage.
Advertisement:
If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services
listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises
| 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia,
MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | 
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving
a voice message, please speak slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday,
except holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try
again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I
stutter.)
E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.
When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing
directly with the owner for the best customer
service. A-1 Miller's shop is open
to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please
call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate our business to other property with a bigger and better
shop so we can hire more help and provide many more high quality parts and
professional services.)
|
How to set the wheelie bars for proper height so the front end won't be too high or too low when the front tires comes off the ground:
About Rear Safety Bumpers -
When a high speed garden tractor gets going down the track really good, and all of a sudden it's engine stalls and the tractor comes to a complete stop, what's going to happen? Chances are the sled will bump the rear of the tractor. Most sled operators can't put the brakes on in time or react fast enough because this can happen so quickly. Therefore, it's a good idea to install a couple of heavy-duty rear "bumpers" mounted on or incorporated into the wheelie bar brackets located a minimum of 6" above the wheels or pads. (Most club's rules and regulations will or should specify the location.) These bumpers will keep the sled from possibly getting up on top of the rear tires, causing damage to the tractor and/or injury to the driver. And the bumpers will prevent the pull chain from getting "wrapped" around one of the rear tires should the tractor go sideways to the extreme.
All tractor pullers, despite their age, needs to be educated on safety requirements and proper operation of a pulling tractor. Because many of them, when the tractor they're sitting on is hooked to the sled, will rev it up and give it all it's got, and they'll do whatever it takes to win. Some even get injured by doing so. They think it's a "no-holds-barred" contest.
We've seen a few garden tractor pullers would launch the sled (not our sled) at the sting line, when all of a sudden their tractor would flip backwards and sometimes the puller will hit the back of their head dirt shield that's on the front of the skid pan because no wheelie bars were installed on their tractor. They weren't seriously injured. But it's scary to actually witness something like that in person! It's not a funny thing to happen and certainly not part of the show!
We were at a pull several years ago [with a now defunct pulling club that was based in central Missouri], when an inexperienced adult person on a stock garden tractor was pulling the sled [not our sled] down the track when all of a sudden the front of the tractor reared up and stood on end, then it caught on fire. What caused this is the tractor had 26-12.00x12 lug tires, about a 16" drawbar height and no wheelie bars. It also had a loose-fitting gas cap with a full tank of gas, which was positioned on top of the engine, and the battery, which was positioned between the gas tank and steering column, wasn't fastened down. When the tractor stood on end, the gas cap fell off, gas spilled out onto the battery and on the driver. Then the battery tipped back, shorting out the posts against the metal steering column support, which ignited the fuel. It was a horrible sight! The flames were immediately extinguished and the puller had to be air-lifted to the nearest hospital with a burn unit. He recovered from his injuries, but he now has scars on his chest and groin area to remind him of that horrible day at a tractor pull when he was just trying to have some fun with his friends. Not to mention the mental scars it left, too. An official of this particular pull should have inspected that tractor and all other tractors for safety, and not allow the puller to participate if the tractor wasn't safe or legal, or if an adjustment wasn't made.
Tell your friends and family about this story. And tell them to definitely install sturdy wheelie bars with skid plates or wheels, whether if they feel they need them or not, or if the rules require them or not. Remember - friends don't let friends pull without wheelie bars (and other safety equipment). And NEVER allow a young person to participate in a pulling event without wheelie bars (and of course, other safety equipment) properly installed and maintained.
We've been to a lot of garden
tractor pulls over the years and noticed that some tractors leak fuel in
places where a fuel leak shouldn't be. Therefore, we think that safety
inspections needs to include checking the fuel lines for dry-rotting, cracks,
fuel leaks, loose fittings, etc. (The tractors should have sturdy wheelie
bars, too.) The inspectors needs to grab hold of the fuel line(s) with their
hand and wiggle it around and slightly jerk on it to check for durability.
This is important. Especially in a kid's class. Don't wait until an issue
becomes a problem, and then turn into a catastrophe. If pullers would build
their tractors right to begin with and maintain them properly, there wouldn't
be any injuries, fires, or fear of a fire.
Using a Quality-Made Pulling Hitch with an Adjustable Drawbar on a Competition Cub Cadet Garden Pulling Tractor or Small Wheel Mini-Rod | [Top of Page]
First
of all, when a pulling association's or club's sanctioning rules state that
"the tractor shall have no more than a 13" hitch height", this is worded
wrong. It should read: "The tractor shall have no more than a 13" drawbar
height." The
"drawbar"
is the part where the hook (on the sled) fastens to. And the "hitch" is the
framework that's attached to the rear of the tractor. It contains the drawbar.
If you can keep from doing so, don't use a bolted-on-solid hitch with a non-adjustable drawbar or a one-piece, welded-on drawbar. It's not that the weld may break, but if you had change the drawbar height, choose to pull in another class or with another club that require a different drawbar height, or if you were to change tire size, deflate/inflate tire pressure, change the diameter of the front tires or as the rear tires wear, a hitch with an adjustable drawbar, you can easily and quickly reset the drawbar height accordingly. This will give your tractor a better advantage with the competition.
To be truly competitive, always run the highest drawbar height your clubs' rules allow. And the further rearward the drawbar is located, the more weight must be placed on the front of the tractor. But if the drawbar is too close to the rear axle, it'll be hard to control the front end from rearing up and down violently at times. Therefore, the best position for the drawbar is 6-1/2" to 8" rearward from the center of the rear axle. This should allow the front of the tractor to rise gently (if the tractor is weighted correctly), which should give the driver full control of the tractor. This measurement applies to all makes and models of garden tractors and for all classes of pulling tractors, from a basic stock to a fully modified.
Information Concerning Strength and Safety of the Pulling Hitch and Adjustable Drawbar Ê
When certain pulling club's sanctioning rules state something like,
"the pulling point may not be more than 3/4 inches in depth," what they actually
mean is, on the drawbar, there must be no more (and no less, for strength)
than 3/4" of metal between inside rear of the hole and outside rearward edge
of the drawbar.
Also, for strength and safety, and because most rules don't bother mentioning this, the drawbar itself should be made of minimum 1/2" thickness steel, and not aluminum!
But the upper and lower angle brackets should be made of either minimum 1/8" thickness mild steel or minimum 1/4" thickness 6061 aluminum.
Being
100% of the downward/rearward [pulling] force is on the upper bracket, when
fastening the aluminum bracket to the tractor, install a wide, thick flat
steel washer under each mounting bolt head or nut (w/stud) to distribute
the load and prevent either fastener from being pulled through the aluminum
or causing the aluminum to bend or crack when under pulling strain.
How to Construct a Professional Pulling Hitch with an Adjustable Drawbar Ê
FYI:
This entire assembly is called the HITCH. The adjustable flat bar where the
hook goes is called the DRAWBAR.
This type of garden tractor pulling hitch with an adjustable drawbar is the most common and strongest ever used. It's low-cost and looks nice, too. It's the design that most professional pullers use, plus it's NQS legal. It will adapt to virtually any garden tractor as long as two pieces of angled steel can be fastened on the rear.
Specifications are:
It's best to use a handy calculator
here
, have pencil and paper
available
, or have JavaScript
enabled in your web browser.
To convert CID into Cubic Centimeters (CC): (1 Cubic inch = 16.3870641 Cubic centimeters)
Multiply the CID by 16.39 = Cubic Centimeters.
Example: 262.37 (CID) x 16.39 = 4300 CC.
To convert CC back into CID: 1 Cubic centimeter = 0.0610237 Cubic inches.
How to Calculate the Compression Ratio of a Flathead or OHV Engine -
- Identification of and Torque Specifications for the
Most Commonly Used Grades of Bolts -
NOTE: Use Standard Torque Settings When Specific Values Are Not Specified.
(C) = Coarse thread, (F) = Fine thread
| Hardness è | No lines = Grade 3
|
3 lines = Grade 5
|
6 lines = Grade 8
|
Stainless Steel / Special Alloy  |
| Bolt/Thread Size â |
Material: Low Carbon Steel. Tensile Strength: 85,000 p.s.i. (Low Strength) | Material: Medium Carbon Steel, Tempered. Tensile Strength: 120,000 p.s.i. (Medium Strength) | Material: Medium Carbon Alloy Steel, Quenched and Tempered. Tensile Strength: 150,000 p.s.i. (High Strength) | 18-8 [304] Stainless Steel |
1/4-20 (C) 1/4-28 (F) 5/16-18 (C) 5/16-24 (F) 3/8-16 (C) 3/8-24 (F) 7/16-14 (C) 7/16-20 (F) 1/2-13 (C) 1/2-20 (F) 9/16-12 (C) 9/16-18 (F) 5/8-11 (C) 5/8-18 (F) 3/4-10 (C) 3/4-16 (F) |
70 in. lb./ 6 ft. lb. 85 in. lb./ 7 ft. lb. 150 in. lb./13 ft. lb. 165 in. lb./14 ft. lb. 260 in. lb./22 ft. lb. 300 in. lb./25 ft. lb. 35 ft. lb. 45 ft. lb. 50 ft. lb. 70 ft. lb. 75 ft. lb. 100 ft. lb. 110 ft. lb. 140 ft. lb. 150 ft. lb. 200 ft. lb. |
115 in. lb./10 ft. lb. 140 in. lb./12 ft. lb. 250 in. lb./21 ft. lb. 270 in. lb./23 ft. lb. 35 ft. lb. 40 ft. lb. 55 ft. lb. 75 ft. lb. 80 ft. lb. 105 ft. lb. 125 ft. lb. 165 ft. lb. 180 ft. lb. 230 ft. lb. 245 ft. lb. 325 ft. lb. |
165 in. lb./14 ft. lb. 200 in. lb./17 ft. lb. 350 in. lb./29 ft. lb. 30 ft. lb. 50 ft. lb. 60 ft. lb. 80 ft. lb. 105 ft. lb. 115 ft. lb. 165 ft. lb. 175 ft. lb. 230 ft. lb. 260 ft. lb. 330 ft. lb. 350 ft. lb. 470 ft. lb. |
14 ft. lb. 17 ft. lb. 29 ft. lb. 35 ft. lb. 58 ft. lb. 69 ft. lb. 98 ft. lb. 110 ft. lb. 145 ft. lb. 160 ft. lb. 200 ft. lb. 220 ft. lb. 280 ft. lb. 310 ft. lb. 490 ft. lb. 530 ft. lb. |
How To Cut New Threads, the Correct and Professional Way | [Top of Page]
First of all, as far as removing
a broken-off bolt or stud for an exhaust flange is concerned, I have never
had any luck with screw extractors. In my experience, all they do is thread
itself deep into the drilled-out stud and expand the bolt/stud, making it
harder to remove. So what I do is center-drill into the broken-off bolt/stud
using a small bit as a pilot hole, then drill into the bolt/stud with the
appropriate size drill bit, then I re-thread the hole with a TAPER hand tap
of the appropriate size, then finish re-threading it with a PLUG tap.
When cutting new threads in a drilled hole for a bolt, stud or screw, to prevent breaking off a [plug] tap in the hole (this can be a nightmare!), it's best to start the thread cutting process with a (preferably new) TAPER hand tap, then the threads can be cut deeper with a (preferably new) PLUG hand tap. If it's a blind hole (a hole that is blocked-off or not open at one end, such for mounting an exhaust header flange), the threads will go deeper with a plug tap for installation of the mounting bolt. (A through-hole is a hole that is open at either end, such as in plate steel.) And a BOTTOM hand tap is useful when the threads needs to go deeper than the plug tap can provide.
Refer to the Tap and Drill Chart below to find the correct size drill bit to use for any particular hole to be threaded. After drilling the hole, start the thread cutting process with a (preferably new) TAPER tap. For best thread cutting results, use WD-40 when cutting threads in aluminum, and use thread cutting oil, automatic transmission fluid (ATF) or power steering fluid (10 weight hydraulic oil) when cutting threads in cast iron or steel.
about 1/2 turn to cut the threads, then
back it off counterclockwise 
about 1/4 turn.
This will loosen and somewhat dislodge the metal cuttings from the flutes
in the tap (open spaces between the cutting teeth). If the tap is difficult
to back off, DO NOT FORCE IT, especially a small tap! Instead, with the tap
in the hole, use (150± psi) compressed air to clear out the majority
of the metal cuttings from the hole (wear
safety glasses!), then GENTLY rotate the tap counterclockwise
until it rotates freely and comes out of
the hole. Again, use compressed air to clear out the metal cuttings from
the hole.
and 1/4 turn counterclockwise
until the new threads are cut all the way
in or through the hole. Return To Previous
Paragraph or Website
Removing a Broken-Off
Tap From a Hole - A threading tap that has broken off in an engine block
or metal casting can be very difficult to remove. About all I can tell you
is to either take your block to a reputable machine shop to have the tap
removed, or go here and try to do it yourself:
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=removing+broken+tap+from+hole.
Actually, before cutting new threads, it's ALWAYS best to use a TAPER hand
tap, and clean out existing threads as the tapping process progresses. If
used correctly, a TAPER tap is less likely to break off in the hole.
Tap and Drill Chart - Inch Sizes Only
|
|
Tap and Drill Bit Chart - Inch, Special Inch and Metric Sizes
|
|
National Pipe Tapered Tap Chart (Recommended tap drill to use for 75% thread depth.)
| To Cut This Size Pipe Threads | Use This Size Drill Bit / Closest Fractional / Decimal Inches | Outside Diameter of Pipe |
| 1/16-27 NPT | D / 1/4" / .246" | 0.313" (5/16") |
| 1/8-27 NPT | R / 11/32" / .339" | 0.405" (13/32") |
| 1/4-18 NPT | 7/16" / .4375" | 0.540" (35/64") |
| 3/8-18 NPT | 37/64" / .5781" | 0.675" (43/64") |
| 1/2-14 NPT | 45/64" / .7031" | 0.840" (27/32") |
| 3/4-14 NPT | 59/64" / .9219" | 1.050" (1-3/64") |
| 1-11 1/2 NPT | 1-5/32" / 1.1562" | 1.315" (1-5/16") |
| 1-1/4-11 1/2 NPT | 1-1/2" / 1.500" | 1.660" (1-21/32") |
| 1-1/2-11 1/2 NPT | 1-47/64" / 1.7344" | 1.900" (1-57/64") |
| 2-11 1/2 NPT | 2-7/32" / 2.2188" | 2.375" (2-3/8") |
Tap Chart for Metric Threads
| Tap Size | Basic Major Millimeter Diameter | Basic Major Inch Diameter | Millimeters Per Thread | Millimeter Drill Bit Size | Inch Drill Bit Size |
| M1.6 x 0.35 | 1.6mm | .063" | .35 | 1.25mm | #55 |
| M2 x 0.4 | 2mm | .0787" | .4 | 1.6mm | #52 |
| M2.5 x 0.45 | 2.5mm | .0984" | .45 | 2.05mm | #46 |
| M3 x 0.5 | 3mm | .1181" | .5 | 2.5mm | #39 |
| M3.5 x 0.6 | 3.5mm | .1378" | .6 | 2.9mm | #32 |
| M4 x 0.7 | 4mm | .1575" | .7 | 3.3mm | #30 |
| M5 x 0.8 | 5mm | .1969" | .8 | 4.2mm | #19 |
| M6 x 1 | 6mm | .2362" | 1 | 5mm | #8 |
| M8 x 1.25 | 8mm | .315" | 1.25 | 6.8mm | H |
| M8 x 1 | 8mm | .315" | 1 | 7mm | J |
| M10 x 1.5 | 10mm | .3937" | 1.5 | 8.5mm | R |
| M10 x 1.25 | 10mm | .3937" | 1.25 | 8.8mm | 11/32" |
| M11 x 1.5 | 11mm | .433" | 1.5 | 9.5mm | 3/8" |
| M11 x 1.25 | 11mm | .433" | 1.25 | 9.75mm | U |
| M12 x 1.75 | 12mm | .4724" | 1.75 | 10.2mm | 13/32" |
| M12 x 1.25 | 12mm | .4724" | 1.25 | 10.8mm | 27/64" |
| M14 x 2 | 14mm | .5512" | 2 | 12mm | 15/32" |
| M14 x 1.5 | 14mm | .5512" | 1.5 | 12.5mm | 1/2" |
| M16 x 2 | 16mm | .6299" | 2 | 14mm | 35/64" |
| M16 x 1.5 | 16mm | .6299" | 1.5 | 14.5mm | 37/64" |
| M18 x 2.5 | 18mm | .7087" | 2.5 | 15.5mm | 39/64" |
| M18 x 1.5 | 18mm | .7087" | 1.5 | 16.5mm | 21/32" |
| M20 x 2.5 | 20mm | .7874" | 2.5 | 17.5mm | 11/16" |
| M20 x 1.5 | 20mm | .7874" | 1.5 | 18.5mm | 47/64" |
| M22 x 2.5 | 22mm | .8661" | 2.5 | 19.5mm | 49/64" |
| M22 x 1.5 | 22mm | .8661" | 1.5 | 20.5mm | 13/16" |
| M24 x 3 | 24mm | .9449" | 3 | 21mm | 53/64" |
| M24 x 2 | 24mm | .9449" | 2 | 22mm | 7/8" |
| M27 x 3 | 27mm | 1.063" | 3 | 24mm | 15/16" |
| M27 x 2 | 27mm | 1.063" | 2 | 25mm | 1" |
- Fractions, Numbers, Letters, Decimals and Metric Equivalents -
NOTE: There's three different type of drill bits - fraction, number
and letter. Actually, there's four, including metric. Use the one that's
closest to the size of hole that needs to drilled.
Fraction/| | | Fraction/| | | Fraction/| | Number/ | Decimal | MM | Number/ | Decimal | MM | Number/ | Decimal | MM Letter | | | Letter | | | Letter | | ----------------------------+----------------------------+---------------------------- 1/64" = .0156" = .396 | #20 = .161" = 4.089 | T = .358" = 9.093 1/32" = .0312" = .795 | #19 = .166" = 4.216 | 23/64" = .3594" = 9.129 #60 = .040" = 1.016 | #18 = .1659" = 4.214 | U = .368" = 9.347 #59 = .041" = 1.041 | 11/64" = .1718" = 4.366 | 3/8" = .375" = 9.525 #58 = .042" = 1.067 | #17 = .173" = 4.394 | V = .377" = 9.576 #57 = .043" = 1.092 | #16 = .177" = 4.496 | W = .386" = 9.804 #56 = .043" = 1.092 | #15 = .180" = 4.572 | 25/64" = .3906" = 9.921 #55 = .0465" = 1.181 | #14 = .182" = 4.623 | X = .397" = 10.084 3/64" = .0468" = 1.191 | #13 = .185" = 4.699 | Y = .404" = 10.262 #55 = .052" = 1.321 | 3/16" = .1875" = 4.763 | 13/32" = .4063" = 10.320 #54 = .055" = 1.397 | #12 = .189" = 4.801 | Z = .413" = 10.49 #53 = .0595" = 1.511 | #11 = .191" = 4.851 | 27/64" = .4219" = 10.716 1/16" = .0625" = 1.588 | #10 = .1935" = 4.915 | 7/16" = .4375" = 11.113 #52 = .0635" = 1.613 | #9 = .196" = 4.978 | 29/64" = .4531" = 11.509 #51 = .067" = 1.701 | #8 = .199" = 5.055 | 15/32" = .4688" = 11.908 #50 = .070" = 1.778 | #7 = .201" = 5.105 | 31/64" = .4844" = 12.304 #49 = .073" = 1.854 | 13/64" = .2031" = 5.159 | 1/2" = .500" = 12.700 #48 = .076" = 1.930 | #6 = .204" = 5.182 | 33/64" = .5156" = 13.096 5/64" = .0781" = 1.984 | #5 = .2055" = 5.22 | 17/32" = .5312" = 13.495 #47 = .0785" = 1.994 | #4 = .209" = 5.309 | 35/64" = .5469" = 13.891 #46 = .081" = 2.06 | #3 = .213" = 5.41 | 9/16" = .5625" = 14.288 #45 = .082" = 2.083 | 7/32" = .2188" = 5.558 | 37/64" = .5781" = 14.684 #44 = .086" = 2.184 | #2 = .221" = 5.613 | 19/32" = .5938" = 15.083 #43 = .089" = 2.26 | #1 = .228" = 5.791 | 39/64" = .6094" = 15.479 #42 = .0935" = 2.375 | A = .234" = 5.943 | 5/8" = .625" = 15.875 3/32" = .0937" = 2.383 | 15/64" = .2344" = 5.954 | 41/64" = .6406" = 16.271 #41 = .096" = 2.438 | B = .238" = 6.045 | 21/32" = .6563" = 16.67 #40 = .098" = 2.489 | C = .242" = 6.147 | 43/64" = .6719" = 17.066 #39 = .0995" = 2.527 | D = .246" = 6.248 | 11/16" = .6875" = 17.463 #38 = .1015" = 2.578 | 1/4" = .250" = 6.35 | 45/64" = .7031" = 17.859 #37 = .104" = 2.642 | E = .250" = 6.35 | 23/32" = .7188" = 18.254 #36 = .1065 = 2.705 | F = .257" = 6.528 | 47/64" = .7344" = 18.654 7/64" = .1094" = 2.779 | G = .261" = 6.629 | 3/4" = .750" = 19.05 #35 = .110" = 2.794 | 17/64" = .2656" = 6.746 | 49/64" = .7656" = 19.446 #34 = .111" = 2.819 | H = .266" = 6.756 | 25/32" = .7813" = 19.845 #33 = .113" = 2.87 | I = .272" = 6.909 | 51/64" = .7969" = 20.241 #32 = .116" = 2.946 | J = .277" = 7.036 | 13/16" = .8125" = 20.638 #31 = .120" = 3.048 | K = .281" = 7.137 | 53/64" = .8282" = 21.034 1/8" = .125" = 3.175 | 9/32" = .2813" = 7.145 | 27/32" = .8438" = 21.433 #30 = .1285" = 3.195 | L = .290" = 7.366 | 55/64" = .8594" = 21.821 #29 = .136" = 3.454 | M = .295" = 7.493 | 7/8" = .875" = 22.225 #28 = .1405" = 3.569 | 19/64" = .2969" = 7.541 | 57/64" = .8906" = 22.621 9/64" = .1406" = 3.571 | N = .302" = 7.671 | 29/32" = .9063" = 23.020 #27 = .144" = 3.658 | 5/16" = .3125" = 7.938 | 59/64" = .9219" = 23.416 #26 = .147" = 3.734 | O = .316" = 8.026 | 15/16" = .9375" = 23.813 #25 = .1495" = 3.797 | P = .323" = 8.204 | 61/64" = .9532" = 24.209 #24 = .152" = 3.861 | 21/64" = .3281" = 8.334 | 31/32" = .9688" = 24.608 #23 = .154" = 3.912 | Q = .332" = 8.433 | 63/64" = .9844" = 25.004 5/32" = .1563" = 3.970 | R = .339" = 8.611 | 1" = 1.000" = 25.400 #22 = .157" = 3.988 | 11/32" = .3438" = 8.733 | #21 = .159" = 4.039 | S = .348" = 8.839 | |
Small Screw Size and Maximum Diameter of Threads
| Thread Size | Maximum Screw Diameter |
||
| Actual O.D. Thread Diameter | Closest Drill Bit Size | Closest Millimeter Size | |
| 2-56 | .086" | #44 / 3/32" | 2.184mm |
| 3-48 | .099" | #39 / 7/64" | 2.5mm |
| 4-40 | .112" | #33 or #34 | 2.84mm |
| 5-40 | .125" | 1/8" | 3.175mm |
| 6-32 | .138" | 9/64" | 3.5mm |
| 8-32 | .164" | 11/64" | 4.17mm |
| 10-24 | .190" | 3/16" | 4.8mm |
| 10-32 | .190" | 3/16" | 4.8mm |
| 12-24 | .216" | 7/32" | 5.5mm |
- Metric Equivalents to Decimals of an Inch -
Decimals of | Decimals of | Decimals of MM an inch | MM an inch | MM an inch ------------------+----------------------+-------------------- .1 = .00394" | 1. = .03937" | 15. = .59055" .2 = .00787" | 2. = .07874" | 16. = .62992" .3 = .01181" | 3. = .11811" | 17. = .66929" .4 = .01575" | 4. = .15748" | 18. = .70866" .5 = .01968" | 5. = .19685" | 19. = .74803" .6 = .02362" | 6. = .23622" | 20. = .78740" .7 = .02756" | 7. = .27559" | 21. = .82677" .8 = .03149" | 8. = .32496" | 22. = .86614" .9 = .03543" | 9. = .35433" | 23. = .90551" 10. = .3937" | 12.7 = .500" | 24. = .94488" 11. = .43307" | 13. = .51181" | 25. = .98425" 12. = .47244" | 14. = .55118" | 25.4 = 1.000" |
Sheet Metal Thickness Gauges (All dimensions in inches.)
| Gauge | Standard Steel | Galvanized Steel | Aluminum | Gauge | Standard Steel | Galvanized Steel | Aluminum | |
| 3 | 0.2391" | - | 0.2294" | 20 | 0.0359" | 0.0396" | 0.0320" | |
| 4 | 0.2242" | - | 0.2043" | 21 | 0.0329" | 0.0366" | 0.0285" | |
| 5 | 0.2092" | - | 0.1819" | 22 | 0.0299" | 0.0336" | 0.0253" | |
| 6 | 0.1943" | - | 0.1620" | 23 | 0.0269" | 0.0306" | 0.0226" | |
| 7 | 0.1793" | - | 0.1443" | 24 | 0.0239" | 0.0276" | 0.0201" | |
| 8 | 0.1644" | - | 0.1285" | 25 | 0.0209" | 0.0247" | 0.0179" | |
| 9 | 0.1495" | 0.1532" | 0.1144" | 26 | 0.0179" | 0.0217" | 0.0159" | |
| 10 | 0.1345" | 0.1382" | 0.1019" | 27 | 0.0164" | 0.0202" | 0.0142" | |
| 11 | 0.1196" | 0.1233" | 0.0907" | 28 | 0.0149" | 0.0187" | 0.0126" | |
| 12 | 0.1046" | 0.1084" | 0.0808" | 29 | 0.0135" | 0.0172" | 0.0113" | |
| 13 | 0.0897" | 0.0934" | 0.0720" | 30 | 0.0120" | 0.0157" | 0.0100" | |
| 14 | 0.0747" | 0.0785" | 0.0641" | 31 | 0.0105" | 0.0142" | 0.0089" | |
| 15 | 0.0673" | 0.0710" | 0.0571" | 32 | 0.0097" | 0.0134" | 0.0080" | |
| 16 | 0.0598" | 0.0635" | 0.0508" | 33 | 0.0090" | - | 0.0071" | |
| 17 | 0.0538" | 0.0575" | 0.0453" | 34 | 0.0082" | - | 0.0063" | |
| 18 | 0.0478" | 0.0516" | 0.0403" | 35 | 0.0075" | - | 0.0056" | |
| 19 | 0.0418" | 0.0456" | 0.0359" | 36 | 0.0067" | - | - |
A-1 Miller's Computerized Stuska Water Brake Engine Dynamometer (Dyno) Service with DPM Data Logger Software to Test Horsepower and Torque! | [Top of Page]
For performance testing of 10-16hp
single cylinder Kohler stock or competition pulling engines at speeds up
to 12,000 RPM. 100% accurate, customers can rent dyno time, fine tune and
make adjustments or changes to their engines to gain maximum horsepower and
torque, and print-out the results so their tractor(s) will be truly competitive
on the track. With an engine dyno, the puller can adjust their engine to
get maximum horsepower and torque, and gear their tractor appropriately to
have an advantage over the competition. NOTE: A fresh-built engine may
not produce full power until it's broke-in. This is when the valves wear-in
with the seats to completely seal in the compression. The rings will likely
hold the compression, but the valves may leak slightly until they wear into
the seats. This is normal for all engines and may take several hours or pulls
to happen, then the valves will be able to hold full compression. Lots of
pullers tell A-1 Miller's after I've built their engines that it seems to
pull stronger every time they pull it.
Engine Dyno Rental Fee: $50.00 per hour run time from the moment the engine is started. No setup fee for Cub Cadet engines with a 3- or 6-pin/stud clutch driver. An adapter may need to be needed or fabricated for other makes and models of engines. Only engines with the narrow base oil pan can be tested. Engines with the wide base (tall) oil pan cannot be tested at this time. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]
Coming Soon - Detailed Illustrated
Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back and Self-Propelled Garden
Tractor Pulling Sled. FYI - The
professionally-built self-propelled pulling sled is the only one I've ever
built (click the picture to the right to see a larger image of this sled),
and I got it right the first time, with very few changes or modifications
that had to be made to it. I guess I'm just one of those kind of guys that
knows what he's doing. Pullers really like pulling our sled, too. They say
it's the best sled they've ever pulled. (Not bragging, just stating a fact.)
By the way - Track Master sled is engineered so well (by Brian Miller), that
other sled builders/owners have copied my well thought-out and proven design.
And I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence. Anyway, I have lots
of work to do in my shop and I work on the sled plans in my spare time. As
soon as my plans with an inventory list of parts to use are perfected, I'll
post the update in my websites with the prices of the plans. Remember -
Perfection takes time. If it's worth having, it's worth waiting for. Also,
I plan to acquire a bigger shop and may build high quality garden tractor
pulling sleds in the future to offer for sale. Please call 573-256-0313 (shop)
or 573-881-7229 (cell; text or voice message), or email
pullingtractor@aol.com if interested.
- Brian Miller
A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. |
Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136
USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313
(shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please
speak slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am
to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When
speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.
When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing
directly with the owner for the best customer
service. A-1 Miller's shop is open
to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please
call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate our business to other property with a bigger and better
shop so we can hire more help and provide many more high quality parts and
professional services.)
To place an order, please call the number below Ê or send an email with your name, complete and correct postal address and phone number and so I can figure the total with shipping cost and USPS Tracking. For payment options for parts ordered or services performed, or to make a donation to my websites, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge), Western Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram Money Transfers. (If a part for a specific purpose is special ordered, your debit/credit card may be charged for the full amount or as a deposit right after your order is placed; please do not send your debit/credit card information in email!) Or you can pay A-1 Miller's through PayPal. (My PayPal account name is my email address. And be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment is for.) If sending a money order, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone number and a description of what the payment is for. My mailing address and phone number are below Ê . I'll make a note of your order, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send the parts to you as soon as I have everything in stock after I receive your payment.
IMPORTANT - When sending your part(s) to A-1 Miller's for rebuilding or repair, package everything securely so the item(s) won't get damaged in shipping and please include a note in the box with your name, mailing address, phone number (in case I have any questions) and a description of what you want done. When shipping heavy parts, it's best to put a slightly smaller box inside a larger box, to double the strength and integrity of the package. Because the clumsy "gorillas" or incompetent and uncaring workers that work for certain delivery services mishandle the heavy packages and don't care. And when the work is completed, I'll either call or email you an invoice with the total including shipping & handling.
Payment Options and We Ship to Canada and
Worldwide 
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent
by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged
item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service
Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal
Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S.
territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground
or equivalent services. We try to keep our shipping cost to customers within
reason. Therefore, we don't ship our products in a fancy-looking package
with our company name and/or logo on it because most customers will just
toss it in the trash after they remove the contents. And being there is no
USPS tracking number outside the US, all I can do is make sure I write your
address correctly on the customs form and on your package.
My websites are not set up to process orders and accept payments. Therefore, for payment options, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total amount for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge), Western Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram Money Transfers. If paying with a credit/debit card, please call me at either number below. To make a payment to me through PayPal, please click this link: https://www.paypal.me/PullingTractor. Please use the "Friends and Family" option, or add 3% to the total amount to cover PayPal's processing surcharge. Or to make a payment to me (pullingtractor@aol.com) in the US through the Venmo app, please click this link: venmo.com. Or use Cash App to make a payment to me (pullingtractor@aol.com). And be sure to mention in PayPal, Venmo or Cash App a description of what the payment is for with your full name, postal address, phone number and email address. If sending a money order or cashier's check, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete mailing address, phone number, email address and a description of what the payment is for. I'll make a note of your order when I have all your information, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send everything on your list to you as soon as I have the parts in stock after I receive your payment.
à Return to Main Pulling Tips Page | Return To Previous Page | Various Vendors Related to Tractor Pulling | Top of Page
Copyright © 1996-Present. This website created, designed and maintained by Brian Miller.
Heavy Duty Plastic Wheelie Bar
Wheels with smooth tread surface. Weighs less than 10 ounces each. Lighter
in weight than all-aluminum wheels or steel wheels w/rubber tread, but just
as strong. Dimensions: 5" tall x 1-3/8" wide x 1/2" center hole w/metal bushing.
Our part # 84-1061.
