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A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Replacement Electronic Ignition System for Tecumseh engine models VH80, VH100, HH80, HH100, HH120, OH120, OH140, OH150, OH160 and OH180 with a gear starter that has a failed OEM Solid State Ignition. This ignition system produces a strong spark. It will allow the engine to start quicker, idle smooth and accelerate at full throttle with no hesitation or misfire. Epoxy molding makes the coil and module impervious to dirt, oil, grease and moisture. This ignition system may outlast the life of the engine. This revolutionizes the ignition system for older cast iron block Tecumseh engines! This replacement ignition system installs in place of the OEM Tecumseh Solid State Ignition (SSI) module unit, and is completely hidden under the flywheel shroud from outside view. These kits have a limited one year warranty. Actual picture of kit shown above. Concept and design by Brian Miller.

Replacement Tecumseh Electronic Ignition Kit with Inductive PerTronix Ignitor. (Detects OEM steel pin in flywheel.) Includes: new PerTronix Ignitor Inductive module/sensor and new high quality, high energy, small-size epoxy encapsulated ignition coil w/integrated copper core spark plug wire, both fastened on aluminum mounting plate, new Autolite 295 or Champion J8C spark plug, new momentary push-button switch (to crank the engine; optional) and new OFF-ON toggle switch (to power the ignition; optional).

Installation Instructions for Replacement Tecumseh Electronic Ignition Kit with the Inductive PerTronix Ignitor:

  1. The module/sensor detects and fires off ONLY the short firing pin in the flywheel so the engine will run right and produce full power. Therefore, remove, drive down or grind off the long firing pin until it's flush with the surface of the flywheel. FYI - I've done a lot of research on this and the long pin MUST be absent for this ignition system to work right.
  2. Set air gap/clearance between firing pin and module/sensor at .010"-.020" with a paper, plastic or brass feeler gauge, and securely tighten the mounting fasteners. Gently rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand to check to see if the pin does not make contact with the pin.
  3. Determine the required length of the spark plug wire, shorten if necessary (don't make it too short!), and install the spark plug boot and terminal. If necessary, apply oil or grease on the spark plug wire and inside boot so the boot will slide on easily.
  4. Set the spark plug gap at .030" with this kit.

Replacement Tecumseh Electronic Ignition Kit with Hall Effect PerTronix Ignitor. (Detects installed screw/magnet on flywheel.) Includes: new PerTronix Ignitor Hall Effect module/sensor and new high quality, high energy, small-size epoxy encapsulated ignition coil w/integrated copper core spark plug wire, both fastened on aluminum mounting plate, 12-24 UNC thread screw/magnet/cushioning washer, new Autolite 295 or Champion J8C spark plug, new momentary push-button switch (to crank the engine; optional) and new OFF-ON toggle switch (to power the ignition; optional).

Installation Instructions for Replacement Tecumseh Electronic Ignition Kit with the Hall Effect PerTronix Ignitor:

  1. Remove the short OEM firing pin from the flywheel, and enlarge the hole with a #16 drill bit, then cut new threads with a 12-24 UNC hand tap. (Use Hanson 1765537; Google search link.)
  2. Install the supplied 12-24 UNC thread screw/magnet/cushioning washer on the flywheel with high strength liquid threadlocker (Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent). The module/sensor is activated from the South pole of the magnet, so do not remove the magnet from the screw! To prevent from breaking the magnet, do not over-tighten the screw! Tighten screw just enough to squeeze out the rubber cushioning washer. No need to remove the long pin. It will serve no purpose. The module/sensor detects and fires off the screw/magnet on the flywheel so the engine will produce full power.
  3. Set air gap/clearance between screw/magnet and module/sensor at .010"-.020" with a paper, plastic or brass feeler gauge, and securely tighten the mounting fasteners. Gently rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand to check to see if the screw/magnet does not make contact with the module/sensor.
  4. Determine the required length of the spark plug wire, shorten if necessary (don't make it too short!), and install the spark plug boot and terminal. If necessary, apply oil or grease on the spark plug wire and inside boot so the boot will slide on easily.
  5. Set the spark plug gap at .030" with this kit.

Wiring Instructions for Either Ignition System:

IMPORTANT - Do not use the OEM Solid State start/ignition key switch with this system, and do not connect the single wire coming out from behind the flywheel to this system. An OFF-IGNITION-START key switch should not be used with this ignition system. Instead, a momentary push button switch (to crank the engine) and an OFF-ON toggle switch (to power the ignition) must be used with this ignition system. FYI - The module is diode-protected, and will NOT burn up if the wires are connected in reverse with power supplied. But the module will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle switch to power the ignition system.

  1. Connect the RED wire on the ignition kit to one wire on the OFF-ON toggle switch
  2. Connect the other wire on the toggle switch to the battery positive (+) post, or to a terminal that connects directly to the battery positive (+) post.
  3. Connect one terminal on the push-button (starter) switch to the small terminal on starter solenoid, and connect the other terminal tp the battery positive (+) post, or to a terminal that connects directly to the battery positive (+) post.
  4. With the spark plug placed on a metal part of the engine, crank over the engine to see if there's spark at the spark plug tip.

How to Start the Engine -

  1. First, choke the carburetor. (Or install an A-1 Miller's fuel primer kit, which is much easier and convenient to use.)
  2. Crank the engine with the momentary push button switch.
  3. While it's cranking over, flip ON the toggle switch or turn ON the key switch to "put the spark to it". Don't forget to open the choke as soon as the engine starts.
  4. The engine should start right off, idle smoothly and accelerate to full RPM every time.
  5. And being the engine may draw fuel through the idle fuel passageway with the throttle plate in the idle position with the engine warm, without using the choke (or primer bulb), it's best to use this same starting procedure every time to start the engine.
  6. Failure to start the engine in this procedure will result in engine "kick back". This is when the flywheel/crankshaft rebounds sharply, which could cause the starter armature to bent or break off. By the way - This is how many pulling truck and tractor drivers, and race car drivers start their high performance engines having a fixed advanced ignition timing (no timing retard), with less hesitation and without damaging the starter motor.

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