![10-18hp Kohler (or Carter [model N]) Carburetor](images/carb.jpg)
Information
about the Kohler Carburetor, Various Fuels and Fuel Systems
Please check out: HOT ROD GARDEN TRACTOR PULLERS ASSOCIATION |
Information
about the Kohler Carburetor, Various Fuels and Fuel Systems
Please check out: HOT ROD GARDEN TRACTOR PULLERS ASSOCIATION |
Identification of Carter and Kohler Carburetors -
Carburetors that's used on Kohler engine models K90/K91 (4hp), K141 (6¼hp), K160 (6.6hp), K161 (7hp) and K181 (8hp) are as follows:
The Carter model
N #16 carburetor originally came on Kohler engine models K91 (4hp), K141
(6¼hp), K160 (6.6hp) and K181 (8hp), but is best suited for the K90/K91
engine. This carburetor also came on various other sizes, makes and models
of engines, too. The diameter of the venturi measures .542", and the throttle
bore measures .810". Being this carburetor is no longer made, its replacement
is the Walbro WHL #36.
FYI - The Carter Carburetor Corporation sold out to Kohler Engines sometime before 1984. Kohler redesigned the throttle shaft lever on the #26 and #30 single cylinder engine carburetors and made slots in the mounting holes for easier installation and removal. Everything else is the same on the Carter and Kohler carburetors, and with the exception of the throttle shaft/lever, they use the same parts. Anyway, Carter, and then later Kohler, made six types of carburetors for the K-series single cylinder 10hp through 18hp engines, the KT-series opposed twin cylinder engines and the K482, K532 and K582 engines.
The size number (diameter of
throttle bore) for the Carter or Kohler carburetors is embossed inside the
upper part of the choke end, just above the venturi. But not all Kohler
carburetors have a number embossed. In this case, the throttle bore (throttle
plate area) will need to be measured to determine the size of the carburetor.
The size number refers to the amount of air that can flow through the carburetor.
A #26 carburetor has a 26 millimeter diameter throttle bore, which converts
closely to 1.024 inches (26 ÷ 25.4 = 1.024"), but actually measures
1.07". A #28 carburetor has a 28 millimeter diameter throttle bore, which
converts to 1.102 inches (28 ÷ 25.4 = 1.102"), but actually measures
1.17". And a #30 carburetor has a 30 millimeter diameter throttle bore, which
converts to 1.181 inches (30 ÷ 25.4 = 1.181"), but actually measures
1.200".
Carburetors that's used on Kohler engines are as follows:
And yet there's another #26 type
of Kohler carburetor designed for Kohler engine models K482 and K532. The
throttle shaft is positioned horizontally and the idle fuel mixture screw
is directly on top of the carburetor body instead of at an angle on the side.
This carburetor is still available from Kohler.
By the way - the part number for any particular Kohler-made carburetor is stamped on the right side of the mounting flange. Don't refer to the numbers just below the fuel inlet port. They represent nothing that I know of. Click here to identify a Kohler or Walbro carburetor and matching parts: Kohler Carburetor Reference Manual TP-2377-E. (Requires Adobe Acrobat Reader.) No numbers are available from any source for the Carter #26, #28 or #30 carburetors.
Airflow -
FYI - The throttle bore in the Carter or Kohler #26 carburetors can be bored to 1.2", the main jet/nozzle will still bottom out against the throttle bore, and of course, a 1.2" throttle shaft and plate would need to be used. But the boring process will break through the idle fuel mixing well (the idle progression holes and the welch plug hole). Modifications to this area would need to be made by threading in an 1/8" Allen pipe plug where the welch plug is (was), and drilling and installing a small brass or copper tube from the idle fuel mixture screw down into the float bowl, next to the float, with enough clearance so it won't interfere with the movement of the float. A 1/4-28 NF x 3/4" long bolt will also need to be installed where the high speed needle adjuster is (was) to block off a vacuum leak to will occur with the modifications of the idle fuel mixing well. Actually, it would be MUCH easier and less cost effective to just convert either a Carter or Kohler #28 or #30 carburetor for high performance use and not having to do anything to modify the idle fuel passageway.
And boring of the venturi in the carburetor alone will not help to increase engine performance. To increase the overall airflow in and out of the combustion chamber for improved engine performance, and if sanctioning club's rules allow this, the intake (and exhaust) port runners must be enlarged, too. This is called "porting an engine." The [stock size] valves will also need to be reworked for more airflow. Or larger valves and a bigger cam will need to be installed.
For pulling competition, carburetor design and size depends on port sizes, valve sizes, if the intake valve and seat have 30°/31° angles and undercut heads, and the cam profile (lift and duration) is important. If an engine has stock ports, valves and cam, a plain stock carburetor can be used. But if the ports and valves have been reworked for more airflow, and a bigger cam is going to be used, then a bored-out carburetor with a 1" (.995" NQS legal) venturi can be used for best performance.
The 26mm carburetor obviously has a smaller throttle bore. Therefore, is restricted as to how much air can flow through it, even with the venturi removed. It'll work excellent on a hot 10hp or mild 12hp engine, but the larger 28mm and 30mm carburetors flows more air, 7.7% more for the 28mm, and 15.5% more for the 30mm. Which are ideal for a hot 12hp and larger engines with porting, polishing, bigger valves and a big cam. If you feel that using a single 30mm carburetor isn't enough for your particular engine, then either a "Super Carb," Dellorto, Mikuni, S&S Super D or a twin Kohler carburetor setup (on a "Y" intake) should be used.
If you have a 14hp Kohler engine, and you can't find a #28 or #30 carburetor, then a #26 carburetor will work just fine for general yard use. Personally, I ran a stock #26 on the 14hp engine that's on our 6,000 lb. self-propelled pulling sled for 10 years and the engine didn't lack any power whatsoever.
Identification and Information About Walbro WHG Carburetors -
The
Walbro WHG carburetors originally come on all Magnum engines.
These carburetors are direct replacements for the Kohler carburetors. The
Walbro #52 carburetor has a throttle bore diameter of 1.07" and is designed
for use on models K241/M10 (10hp), K301/M12 (12hp), KT17, KT17II, KT19, KT19II,
MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20 engines. And the Walbro #60 or #64 carburetor
have a throttle bore diameter of 1.2" and is designed for the K321/M14 (14hp),
K341/M16 (16hp) engines, and being the Kohler #30 carburetor that was originally
designed for the K361, 18hp OHV engine is longer available, the only option
is to use the Walbro #60 or #64 carburetor.
The older Walbro WHG carburetors are reliable and they seem to last a long time before requiring service. Most older Walbros are worth rebuilding, because the float valve seats are made of hardened solid bronze, which is actually harder than cast iron. They were manufactured back in the day when most business owners took pride in their products and offered their customers a quality product.
But the newer Walbro carburetors, especially the ones that come on recently-built aluminum block small air-cooled engines, are notorious for leaking gas after several years of use. Although overhaul/rebuild kits are available, it really does no good to rebuild them because the float valve seat is made of soft brass, which erodes with use due to microscopic pieces of dirt, grit and debris that pass through the fuel filter, and in most Walbro carburetors, the seat is not replaceable.
About 90% of small engine carburetors are made by Walbro nowadays, and I don't think that one is better than the other. The trick to getting the soft brass seat (and needle/float valve) to last longer is to use a fuel filter with a very fine mesh screen or fine mesh pleated paper element. The finer, the better. Because it's the microscopic dirt and grit that passes through the filter that causes the seat (and needle/float valve) to erode and wear. And every pressed-in brass seat that I've replaced ALWAYS leaked gas. There's just no way to get them to seal with the carburetor body, not even with high strength liquid threadlocker.
If a Walbro carburetor drips fuel, and a new carburetor is out of the question, the only options is to either install an under-the-[gas] tank or in-line fuel shut off valve (lots of people do this). Or a new carburetor can be purchased, and hope the leaking fuel situation doesn't happen again in a few years. (Walbro is like Walmart or Sam's Club, they want 'em keep coming back. This undoubtedly is how many big businesses nowadays keep selling new high-dollar replacement Chinese-made carburetors and other engine parts to unknowing or ignorant customers.)
The only problem using a Walbro on a pulling tractor or for high performance application is they can't be bored out or modified in any way because the throttle bore wall (where the venturi is located) is too thin. Therefore, they're limited to how much air can flow through them. The US government EPA laws required that Kohler and all other small engine manufacturers redesign their carburetors so the engine will produce less air pollution. So they started using a redesigned emissions-controlled, EPA-approved Walbro carburetor with a fixed, non-adjustable high speed main jet. This is to prevent people from setting the air/fuel ratio too rich and create more air pollution. The older-designed Walbros that have an adjustable high speed main jet, which is located on the lower right side of the carburetor, are still available new.
Walbro WHG carburetors work great for ordinary lawn and garden equipment, general yard work and they're perfect for basic stock low rpm/low-performance pulling tractors with an engine that's governed to a maximum of 3,200 rpm with a fixed main jet, or at 3,600 rpm with an adjustable main jet. A carburetor with a fixed high speed main jet is limited to just 3,200 rpm and should never be operated faster for an extended length of time. Although the venturi cannot be bored out on a Walbro, they work equally as well as the older Carter or Kohler carburetors when used on a stock engine. The main jet in the newer Walbro WHG carburetors are calibrated at the factory to provide the engine with just the right amount of fuel at 3,200 rpm. Therefore, the fixed jet inside the carburetor cannot be replaced with an adjustable one.
Walbro WHG carburetors having a fixed main jet are designed with emission controls in mind to run leaner to create less air pollution. However, the main problem with most Walbros having a fixed main jet is during cooler weather operation. During cool weather, and running at 3,200 rpm, the engine will sometimes run too lean on fuel and operate erratically. To fix this, simply enlarge the hole in the main jet a few thousandths of an inch. The hole diameter in the OEM factory main jet for 100% gasoline is 3/64" (.047"). If necessary, enlarge the main jet and fuel inlet holes with a #55 (.052") drill bit. That's a .0052" difference. After doing this, for cool weather, the engine should run better, last longer and produce more power. But don't enlarge the hole in the main jet too much! A too big of a hole will cause an engine to run too rich on fuel, making it blow black smoke out the exhaust and possibly fouling the spark plug. If the hole is made too large, the carburetor will be useless for gasoline, and E85 fuel must be used. But if an engine is going to be used only during warm weather and if it runs okay [during warm weather], don't enlarge the hole in the main jet.
On the newer carburetors with a fixed main jet, the hole in the main jet may need to be enlarged .002"-.003" to give the engine a little more fuel so it'll run better at higher rpm. Otherwise, the engine could "burn up" or wear out prematurely due to the lean air/fuel mixture. I have an assortment of tiny drill bits that I use on our customer's lawn & garden equipment carburetors.
A new
style Walbro carburetor with a fixed high speed main jet should never be
used on a non-governed (wide-open throttle) engine or on an engine that's
going to turn at 3,200 rpm! The reason for this is because if an engine operates
faster with a carburetor having a fixed high speed main jet, it'll run too
lean on fuel at high rpm (it'll draw much more air than fuel), which will
cause the combustion chamber to overheat and the excessive heat will likely
damage the piston and rings and possibly warp the cylinder head and/or exhaust
valve or even crack the cast iron engine block.
A lean fuel mixture can also melt away part of the
aluminum in the combustion chamber of an aluminum block engine.
The size number on all Walbro WHG carburetors is embossed inside the carburetor and can be seen by looking inside the upper part of the choke end, just above the venturi. A "52" carburetor has a 26 millimeter diameter throttle bore, which converts closely to 1.024 inches (26 ÷ 25.4 = 1.024"), but actually measures 1.07".
And being the venturi in the
old-style Carter model N #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors used on Kohler engine
models K90/K91 (4hp), K141 (6¼hp), K160 (6.6hp), K161 (7hp) and K181
(8hp) can't be bored out either, the only option for pulling competitively
with these is to fabricate an adapter to fasten to the intake port on the
engine block and use a #52 Walbro or #26 Carter or Kohler carburetor.
The best way to determine which engine any particular carburetor is made for is to measure the diameter of the throttle bore. Because a set of numbers that's stamped on the carburetor body mean nothing, not even to Kohler Engine dealers. If a carburetor measures .822" (13/16"), then it's made for the 6¼hp, 7hp or 8hp engines. If it measures 1.07", then it's for the 10hp or 12hp engines. And if it measures 1.17" or 1.2", it's for a 14hp, 16hp (flathead) or 18hp OHV engine.
If the threads strip out where
the float bowl retaining bolt goes, to "try to" fix this, cut about 1/8"
off the bottom of the protruding part and reinstall the float bowl and retaining
bolt. It'll tighten the bowl slightly more onto the carburetor, and you'll
need to check and see if the two side fuel feed holes aren't blocked or partially
blocked with the retaining bolt installed and tightened. If they are blocked,
they can be redrilled so the fuel will reach the main jet. This works the
same with an OEM retaining bolt and an aftermarket bottom adjuster. Be sure
to back the adjuster out before installing so the needle doesn't jam into
the main jet/nozzle and get damaged. And if the threads strips again, you
may have to get another carburetor body. Because the metal is simply too
thin for welding or a Heli-Coil insert.
How
to Set the Governor Adjustment - Top of page
If an engine revs with no closing of the throttle shaft, or surges, then the governor is probably out of adjustment or something is broken. To set the governor on a cast iron block Kohler single or twin cylinder engine models MV16, KT17, KT17II, KT19, KT19II, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20:
Install all the throttle linkages, governor parts, etc., in their respective places. Block the throttle lever in the wide open position, and rotate the cross-shaft counterclockwise Q as far as it will go and then tighten the clamp bolt/nut. And that's all that's to it! If this doesn't fix the problem, then perhaps the governor gear is damaged and/or the stub shaft is worn (wobbling around, which will cause throttle surging), the lever broke off the cross-shaft (which will cause the engine to run at wide open throttle), or the throttle plate retaining screws came out of the throttle shaft.
And it doesn't matter how long
or short the link between the governor lever to the throttle lever is because
the governor is set by the clamp on the cross-shaft. Actually, I don't know
why Kohler made the link adjustable. It serves no purpose to lengthen or
shorten it.
You can also go here for further details and pictures: http://cubfaq.com/govadjust.html.
And to set the high rpm governored speed, place one end of the governor spring in the middle to lower hole in the "L" shaped governor lever, and place the other end of the spring in either the top or second hole from the top in the short lever that's located under the carburetor or on the flywheel shroud. It's best to use a [Dixson] small engine tachometer to determine the exact rpm to prevent over-revving of the engine, which could cause the connecting rod to break. (Double the reading on the [Dixson] tachometer on engines with camshaft-operated ignition points.) The high speed governor limit for a stock engine is set at 3,600 rpm. For a stock pulling engine, set it at 4,000 rpm, or whatever sanctioning rules require.
Do not mistakenly rotate
the cross shaft clockwise (opposite rotation than what it shows in the drawing
above) until it stops, tighten the clamp and then run the engine! Doing this
could cause the lever (see below) to jam into the governor flyweights, breaking
off the lever and/or possibly destroying the governor gear
assembly.
If the governor cross-shaft (the shaft that protrudes from the block) gets bent due to rough handling of the engine, and if it's not bent too bad, just use a hammer to straighten it. It's made of mild steel. But if it's bent severely and breaks off, it must be replaced. If this happens, usually the bronze bushing (Kohler part # 235476) will break also and it will need to be replaced, too. Or, if the above adjustment was attempted, and the governor shaft keeps rotating without stopping, this means the flat lever on the shaft has broken off. It can usually be found at the bottom of the oil pan. A broken off lever will allow an engine to operate dangerously at wide open throttle at all times.
To fix either of the above,
another governor cross shaft (Kohler part # A-235256-S) must be installed.
To install another shaft, the entire engine must be completely disassembled.
This means EVERYTHING inside the engine block (crankcase) will need to be
removed. And then the replacement shaft can installed from inside the crankcase.
But before the original shaft is removed, the bronze bushing on the outside
must first be removed. The governor gear assembly doesn't have to be removed.
The shaft lifts out from inside the crankcase and is installed in reverse
order of removal. And it'll be a good idea to place a small bead of weld
on the flat lever to secure it to the shaft to prevent future breakage. (I
think this is something that Kohler should have done originally.) I realize
that this is a lot of work just to replace a small [important] part, but
it must be done in this way. There is no other way to replace it. After
installing, apply clean motor oil on shaft for smooth governor action and
less wear on shaft and bushing.
Advertisement:
If you need any of the parts listed below, please contact
A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia,
MO 65203-9136 USA |  Phone:
1-573-875-4033. Please call Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone,
except holidays. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
 Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
 E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. You can
also contact us through Yahoo! Messenger:
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 Nylon
Governor Gears. Good for up to 4,000 rpm. OEM Kohler part # A-235743-S.
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 Cast Iron Governor
Gear. Good for above 4,000 rpm up to wide open throttle. Will not explode
or flex at high rpms like the nylon governor gears sometimes do. OEM Kohler
part # A-237031. (Discontinued from Kohler.)
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 3/8" Diameter
Governor Gear Stub Shafts -
For Kohler engine models K141 (6¼hp), K160 (6.6hp), K161 (7hp), K181/M8 (8hp). .625" length. Kohler part # 230125-S.
For Kohler engine models K241/M10 (10hp), K301/M12 (12hp), K321/M14 (14hp), K341/M16 (16hp) flatheads, K361 (18hp OHV) and KT-series & Magnum twin cylinder flathead engines. .815" length. Kohler part # 235125-S.
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 New hardened steel
thrust washer for nylon or cast iron governor gears. Kohler # 237022-S.
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Governor Cross
Shafts for Kohler engine models K241/M10 (10hp), K301/M12 (12hp), K321/M14
(14hp), K341/M16 (16hp) flatheads, K361 (18hp OHV). NOTE: After installing,
apply clean motor oil on shaft for smooth governor action and less wear on
shaft and bushing. OEM Kohler part # A-235256-S.
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 Bronze Governor
Cross Shaft Bushing for Kohler engine models K241/M10 (10hp), K301/M12 (12hp),
K321/M14 (14hp), K341/M16 (16hp) flatheads, K361 (18hp OHV). NOTE: After
installing, apply clean motor oil on governor shaft for smooth governor action
and less wear on shaft and bushing. OEM Kohler part # 235476-S.
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The Wrong Type of Choke Lever!
Whenever I get a carburetor with the choke lever in the wrong position, if
it has a steel choke shaft, I just grind the lever off at the flare and weld
it back on the shaft in the right position. But if it has a brass shaft,
I use a steel choke shaft out of a junk carburetor. Or if I don't have a
used one in stock, I machine a steel choke shaft from a 1/4" mild steel rod.
Like the old saying goes: "There's more than one way to skin a cat."
When removing the choke plate and shaft, there's
a tiny (1/8") steel ball and spring located in the air filter housing screw
hole at the 9:00 position when facing the choke end with the float area toward
you. This is the detent to retain the choke plate in the open position when
a cable isn't attached to the choke lever. When the choke shaft is removed,
hold one finger over the screw hole and choke shaft hole to prevent the ball
and spring from flying out and possibly getting lost.
Installing the choke shaft over the detent ball can be tricky. This is how it's done:
Place the carburetor with the choke end facing upward and the
float area facing toward you on a sturdy work table, or gently clamp it in
a bench vise.
NOTE: The ball and spring is for hand-operation of the choke only. If choke is cable-operated, then the ball and spring isn't needed.
Advertisement:
| If you need any of the parts listed below, please contact
A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia,
MO 65203-9136 USA | Phone:
1-573-875-4033. Please call Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone,
except holidays. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. You can
also contact us through Yahoo! Messenger:
More of our parts & services: Brian Miller's Carburetor and Fuel System Parts and Machine Shop Services |
|
 Choke shaft
w/hand-operated or cable-controlled lever for most Carter model N #16, #18,
#20, #22 carburetors, and all Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetors used on Kohler
engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8. Overall shaft length:
2-1/16". For Carter carburetors with following numbers stamped on top of
carburetor body: C-231738, B-231739, G-220517, 41 053 01 and 41 053 13. For
Walbro carburetors with following numbers stamped on side of carburetor body:
41 053 21, 41 053 22, 41 053 23, 41 053 28, 41 053 29, 41 053 30, 41 053
32, 41 053 34, 41 053 37, 41 853 01, 41 853 02, 41 853 03, 41 853 13 and
46 053 05. Comes with screws and split lock washers. Choke shaft
w/flat lever (OEM Kohler part # 41 090 21-S) is no longer
available.
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 Choke shaft w/long,
hand-operated or cable-controlled lever for certain Carter model N #16, #18,
#20, #22 carburetors, and certain Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetors used on
Kohler engine models K181 and M8. For Carter carburetors with following numbers
stamped on top of carburetor body: 41 053 18 (K181 or M8) and 41 053 20 (M8).
For Walbro carburetors with following numbers stamped on side of carburetor
body: 41 053 24, 41 053 26, 41 053 27, 41 053 31, 41 053 36 and 41 853 04.
Comes with screws and split lock washers.
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Choke shaft w/short,
angled lever for Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHG #52, #60,
#64 carburetors with the round
air filter housing assembly. Comes with screws and split lock washers.
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Choke shaft w/long
lever for Kohler #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors with
the oblong air filter housing
assembly (Quiet Line). Comes with screws and split lock washers.
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| Choke Detent Balls
- NOTE: The ball and spring is for hand-operation of the choke
only. If choke is cable-operated, then the ball and spring isn't
needed.
1/8" diameter for all Carter or Kohler #16, #18, #20, #22, #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetors.
5/32" diameter for Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors.
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| Choke Detent Springs - NOTE: The ball and spring
is for hand-operation of the choke only, such as on a generator engine. If
choke is cable-operated, such as in a tractor, then the ball and spring isn't
needed.
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How to adjust the fuel mixture screws on a Kohler (or virtually any early small engine) carburetor - Top of page
First of all, on the Carter or Kohler carburetors, the hole towards the bottom of the long high speed main needle adjuster is supposed to be open, so the engine can draw fuel for idling from the float bowl. The idle fuel passageways for a Carter or Kohler carburetor goes as follows: The fuel is first drawn through the high speed needle adjuster via the lower hole towards the bottom, then it travels upward, then over and down toward the idle mixture screw (which sets at an angle), and then the fuel is drawn into the throttle bore, next to the throttle plate. The information below is mainly for Carter or Kohler carburetors. The fuel mixture screws are used as follows:
For improved idling for stock and pulling engines with a Carter
or Kohler carburetor, on high speed needle adjusters with only one lower
hole, carefully enlarge the hole with a micro-chuck having a 3/64" (.047")
or a #56 through #60 (.0465" through .040") drill bit. Carefully enlarge
the hole by hand. There's no need to use an electric drill. Use [150±
psi] compressed air to clear out any debris, and then suck through the tube
with your mouth to make sure it's clear or unclogged. But some high speed
adjusters have two lower holes that goes all the way through the stem, but
most just have one hole. If a tube has two holes, there's no need to enlarge
both of them.
For the K90/91, K141, K160/161
and K181 engines with the Carter model N carburetor, if the engine idles
fine, but fails to accelerate, install a short 6-32 NF screw in the emulsion
hole leading to the main nozzle just under the choke plate.
Many times when cleaning a Carter or Kohler carburetor, the welch plug that's on the side of the carburetor don't need to be removed. With the idle air/fuel mixture screw and the high speed needle adjuster removed, use [150± psi] compressed air in either screw hole and feel if air comes out either hole and if air comes out the tiny fuel hole that's next to the throttle plate. If air does come out of these holes, then the idle fuel passageway is clear and the welch plug don't need to be removed. A squirt of WD40 or carburetor cleaner (in an aerosol spray can) can be used instead of compressed air.
Advertisement:
| If you need any of the items listed below, please contact A-1 Miller's
Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136
USA | Phone: 1-573-875-4033.
Please call Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone, except holidays.
If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please
be patient because I stutter.)
Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. You can
also contact us through Yahoo! Messenger:
|
 3/64" (.0469") diameter
x 1-3/8" long quality high speed steel drill bit. Use to enlarge lower hole
on high speed needle adjuster for Carter or Kohler carburetors so engine
will idle better. $1.60 each, plus shipping & handling. Many other
small size drill bits available. |
 Throttle and Choke Plate Retaining
Screws for Carter, Kohler and Walbro carburetors used on various Kohler and
other small engines. The stainless steel screws have a tensile strength of
60,000 psi.
|
 Quality High Speed Steel
Taps -
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If an engine blows black smoke out the exhaust while running, then here are the main causes:
Black exhaust smoke is when an engine is getting too much gas and/or not enough air in the combustion chamber. The causes for this are either... (listed from most common to rare causes)
Also, sometimes flooding of the carburetor will deposit gas in the motor oil, but only in a vertical shaft engine. Because gas can't seep into the crankcase on horizontal shaft engines. The cause of the problem is the carburetor is flooding. The gas seeps past the piston ring gaps and into the crankcase. To fix this, clean the float valve (needle and seat) in the carburetor, or install a new carburetor kit. Also, clean out the fuel lines with [150± psi] compressed air and install a new fuel filter. And then the oil will need to be drained and fresh motor oil installed.
The Cause of Carburetor Flooding at Slow Idle with a Long Duration/High Performance Camshaft -
Sometimes when using a long duration/high performance camshaft, despite if the engine has a modified or stock carburetor, if the engine idles for a long period of time, it may run rich on fuel at slow idle speeds. What happens is with a long duration cam, intake vacuum is low and with a single cylinder engine, excess fuel builds up in the intake extension/port. Any engine that has a long duration camshaft have low vacuum at slow idle speeds. The longer the duration, the lower the vacuum. What causes excess fuel to build up in the intake is the long duration of the cam lobes holds the [intake] valve open longer, and at slow idle, the pressure of the piston blows some of the air/fuel back into the intake tube. The more duration a cam has, the worse this will be. As the engine is accelerated, black smoke or raw unburned fuel will blow out the exhaust until the fuel is cleared out of the intake tube. With the engine running well above idle, air becomes trapped within the combustion chamber and the piston don't have time to blow any air/fuel back into the intake. This happens with automotive gasoline, E85 or 100% methanol fuels, and there's nothing that can be done about it. There's probably nothing wrong with the carburetor, and nothing can be done to the idle circuit to prevent this. Just make a simple adjustment with the idle air/fuel mixture screw so the engine idles smoothly, and don't allow the engine to idle for a long period of time.
The Major Causes of Carburetor Flooding -
What prevents most carburetor and fuel system from having problems when using gasoline is to run the engine out of fuel or draining the entire fuel system if it's not going to be used for more than 30 days at a time. DO NOT TRUST FUEL STABILIZER! If there's no fuel left in the system, then there should be no problems. The following causes are listed from most common to rare.
If fuel drips out of the carburetor...
If gas constantly pours out of the carburetor...
If the carburetor on an engine
have been setting for some time without an air filter housing, and if gas
pours out of the carburetor only when cranking the engine, especially with
a mechanical fuel pump, then the gas stops pouring when the engine isn't
cranked, check for a clogged atmospheric vent hole. Sometimes a
mud dauber (wasp-like insect) will build their nest in
a place like this.
What makes crankcase oil black is blow-by due to either worn piston rings, carburetor flooding or the engine running rich on fuel (gas). And if there's gas in the oil (you can smell the presence of gas), this means there's a hole in the diaphragm in the mechanical fuel pump. Being there are no fuel pump repair kits available nowadays, an either good used or new replacement fuel pump is required.
Gasoline and
alcohol fuels are both extremely flammable! Use caution and don't smoke,
avoid making sparks or don't have an open flame exposed when working near
or with either of them. Work in a well-ventilated area, too.
We've been to a lot of garden
tractor pulls over the years and noticed that some tractors leak fuel in
places where a fuel leak shouldn't be. Therefore, I think that safety inspections
needs to include checking the fuel lines for dry-rotting, cracks, fuel leaks,
loose fittings, etc. (The tractors should have sturdy wheelie bars, too.)
The inspectors needs to grab hold of the fuel line(s) with their hand and
wiggle it around and slightly jerk on it to check for durability. This is
important. Especially in a kid's class. Don't wait until an issue becomes
a problem, and then turn into a catastrophe. If pullers would build their
tractors right to begin with and maintain them properly, there wouldn't be
any injuries, fires, or fear of a fire.
Click here to read
more about a garden pulling tractor catching on fire.
FYI - If oil leaks from an engine, transmission/transaxle or steering box, causing an oily mess on a concrete floor, mineral spirits (paint thinner) can be used to dry out the oil. Just pour some thinner on the oil, use a broom to thoroughly mix the thinner with the oil, and eventually the oil will dry with no signs of it ever being on the floor. Because of its low volatile flammability, paint thinner also works great as a cleaning solvent, which is used to clean oily or greasy mechanical parts.
If an engine won't idle or idles poorly, then the following should be checked and corrected...
Solutions: Remove adjuster, if it has just one lower hole,
enlarge it with a micro-chuck having a 3/64" (.047") or a #56 through #60
(.0465" through .040") drill bit. Carefully enlarge the hole by hand. There's
no need to use an electric drill. Then use [150± psi] compressed air
to clear out any debris, and then suck through the tube with your mouth to
make sure it's clear and unclogged. If it's still clogged, use a bread
wire tie to clean out the inside of the tube. Then use the compressed air
to thoroughly clear it out. Suck through the tube with your mouth
to make sure it's clear and unclogged. If performing either of the
above doesn't clear out the tube, then acquire another high speed main fuel
needle adjuster in good condition or a new one. But make sure it's the correct
adjuster for your particular carburetor.
Solution: The carburetor
probably has the wrong high speed main fuel mixture adjuster needle. If the
adjuster has four tiny holes midway (Kohler part # 47 103 01-S), thoroughly
clean the area around the holes with fine emery cloth or wire wheel, and
solder over two of the holes opposite of each other with
electrical solder and
soldering gun. Doing this will create a stronger suction
(vacuum) of fuel through the tube so the engine will idle. Be sure to smooth
the solder (get rid of any lumps) so it won't obstruct the flow of air through
the carburetor.
Or purchase a new high speed
main fuel mixture adjuster needle with no tiny holes midway. The Kohler part
number for this particular part is 45 103 01-S.
But if an engine idles well, but runs only at higher rpms (up to 3,200 rpm with a fixed main jet; or 3,600 rpm with an adjustable main jet) with the choke partially closed, or if it surges or hesitates to rev up upon acceleration, this means the engine is running too lean on fuel, and following are the most likely causes: (listed from most common to rare)
Solution: Remove carburetor, remove float bowl and float, and
use a
carburetor jet cleaner wire set or an
oxy-acetylene welding torch tip cleaner to clear out the
dried gas and/or dirt/debris from the main jet.
When cleaning the hole in the main jet, use a
wire cleaner of the appropriate size, and be careful not to enlarge the hole,
or the engine may run too rich on fuel! But if the engine
still runs the same after cleaning the main jet, then the hole in the main
jet will need to be slightly if enlarged a few thousandths of an inch to
give the engine a little more fuel. After cleaning or enlarging the hole
in the main jet, always use [150± psi] compressed air to clear the debris
and/or metal fragments from the carburetor.
A worn throttle shaft is the #1 cause of most
engines wearing out prematurely. If a carburetor has a worn throttle shaft,
this will create a vacuum leak and the engine will idle poorly, if at all
at times. Not to mention the engine will also draw in dirty air, causing
wear on the valve faces/seats and piston rings, and engine will burn oil.
More than .010" of play is considered too much for throttle shaft wear. Plus,
at operating running speeds (3,600 rpm), the extra air will cause the engine
to run lean on fuel, which will overheat the combustion chamber and cause
the cylinder head to warp (blow a head gasket) and the piston and rings to
wear prematurely, eventually resulting in severe engine wear and excessive
oil burning. Along with regular maintenance, repair of a worn throttle shaft
is required to help an engine last a long time. The most accurate way to
check for amount of wear is with a dial indicator.
If a high-performance/high output
ignition coil (Bosch blue coil) is being used, it requires two ordinary
condensers or one high capacity/performance condenser (Accel).
FYI - If you've had your carburetor apart about 10 times, and you found nothing wrong with it, but the engine still runs the same with the same carburetor installed, then the problem obviously isn't in the carburetor. As an older, experienced mechanic once said, "Most carburetor problems are electrical." (Meaning faulty ignition system.) This has proven true more times than I can remember.
Backfiring out the exhaust upon deceleration is normal for virtually all engines since gas is still going through the combustion chamber, compressing in the exhaust and exploding from the exhaust heat. But if an engine constantly backfires out the exhaust at any speeds after running for several minutes, the problem may be...
The Anti-Backfire Solenoid
Valve -
The anti-backfire solenoid valve (with a wire connected to it) is on the
bottom of the float bowl of most newer lawn & garden tractor engines.
The spring-loaded plunger in it stops the fuel supply to the combustion chamber
by blocking off the main jet as soon as the ignition is turned off. This
prevents a loud BANG out the muffler when the engine is hot. Without it,
when the [hot] engine is turned off while throttled up, unburned gas will
continue to pass through the combustion chamber, build up in the still red-hot
muffler where the gas is compressed with hot air, and then produce a loud
BANG out the muffler. It sounds just like a shotgun being fired.
If the solenoid goes bad (it's supposed to make a "click" sound when the ignition is turned on), it can be replaced with a new one, or remove it and simply snip off the protruding pin (plunger rod), and reinstall it. Doing this will allow the engine to draw fuel and run. But remember to idle the engine down for a few minutes each time before shutting it off, or like I said, it may produce a loud BANG out the muffler.
How To Loosen a Corroded or Rusted-In-Place Throttle, Choke Shaft or Adjusting Screw -
GUNK Liquid Wrench works wonders to loosen virtually any
rusted or corroded metal part! Just spray the ends of the throttle or choke
shaft, let soak for about 30 minutes or perhaps overnight, then use small
Vise Grips to GENTLY rotate the shaft back and forth
. Don't force it because it could become twisted
and/or break off at the closest plate retaining screw hole! It may rotate
(loosen) just a few thousandths of an inch. After it rotates slightly, spray
it again and gently rotate it again. Eventually, it should rotate more and
swivel 100% free.
If the shaft refuse to loosen with Liquid Wrench, remove the float bowl,
float, baffle shield and O-ring. Clamp the carburetor in a bench vice, and
then use an acetylene torch to lightly heat the carburetor body next
to the shaft, and use the Vise Grips to GENTLY rotate the shaft back and
forth . The shaft should swivel 100% free within
a few seconds of heating. Heating also works great to remove a stuck-in-place
idle speed adjuster screw, idle fuel mixture screw or the high speed main
adjuster screw. Be very gentle rotating a brass screw to loosen it because
it could snap off! And be careful not to get the aluminum too hot, it may
melt! Don't use a torch in an attempt to remove a stuck main jet/nozzle.
Being the aluminum surrounding the main jet/nozzle is thin, it could crack
under severe heat, rendering the carburetor useless.
To prevent breaking off the throttle (or choke) plate screws
when removing them, first, grind down the flared ends with a
Dremel or equivalent small grinder chucked with a chainsaw
chain sharpening stone. And should a screw break off, sometimes the shaft
can be difficult to remove. In this case, use the
Dremel to grind the flared end of the [broken] screw
so it's flush with the throttle shaft. Then the shaft can be removed. Then
the broken screw can be drilled out with either a 5/64", #46 or 2mm drill
bit and retap the threads. The OEM Carter or Kohler screw size is 3-48 NC.
Should the threaded hole become enlarged from drilling out the broken screw, then the hole will need to be tapped bigger with a 4-40 NC tap, and a 4-40 NC screw can be installed. In this event, contact me and order the larger screws with split lock washers. Liquid threadlocker is not required with a lock washer.
Removing the Main Jet/Nozzle from a #26, #28 or #30 Carter or Kohler Carburetor -
When rebuilding a plain, stock #26,
#28 or #30 Carter or Kohler carburetor, there is no need to remove the main
jet/nozzle. If the main jet/nozzle will not come out, don't worry about it.
All that has to be done is make sure the bottom hole and side holes in the
main jet/nozzle are open. To check if the side holes are open, simply spray
WD-40 or carburetor cleaner through the small hole just beneath the choke
plate and observe if it comes out the main jet/nozzle inside the throttle
bore and float bowl area.
If the main jet/nozzle is clogged, or if you're boring the venturi to modify the carburetor for high-performance use, then the main jet/nozzle definitely needs to be removed. Before attempting to remove the main jet/nozzle, and if the screwdriver slot is in good condition, then I found the best, easiest and proven way to remove it is by the following process. This method works great most of the time and the main jet/nozzle should loosen with no problems.
If the above method still didn't
work, then unfortunately, sometimes the main jet/nozzle will get stuck in
place and the screwdriver slot will strip out. (I hate when this happens.)
The alternative method is to drill out the main jet/nozzle. This process
is as follows:
Removing the main jet/nozzle from a #16, #18, #20 or #22 Carter model N Carburetor for Cleaning -
If the main jet/nozzle in a #16, #18, #20 or #22 Carter model
N carburetor that's used on Kohler engine models K90/K91 (4hp), K141
(6¼hp), K160 (6.6hp), K161 (7hp) or K181 (8hp) needs to be removed for
cleaning, being this type of nozzle is pressed in the carburetor body. It
removes and reinstalls a lot easier than the above main jet/nozzle. The removal
and installation process is as follows:
By the way - as far as I know, new main jet/nozzles for the #16, #18, #20 or #22 Carter model N carburetor is not available from any source.
Using Pump Gas with 10% Ethanol Versus 100% Race Gas in a Pulling Tractor -
First of all, gasoline with no lead is hard on cast iron exhaust valve seats. A cast iron valve seat is one that's been machined directly into an engine block or cylinder head, and no insert is installed. In a daily-driven automobile, the seat(s) will eventually deteriorate or the metal will literally "wear away" because the absence of lead in gas to provide a protective coating to prevent wear. And being most exhaust valves are made of extremely hardened steel, they're not likely to wear at all. The intake valve and the cast iron seat is not likely to wear as much, if any. And an engine block or cylinder head with hardened steel exhaust valve seat insert(s), the seats should not wear whatsoever.
Anyway, the 10% ethanol in pump gas (common everyday automotive fuel) lessens exhaust emissions. Plus, the alcohol content boosts the octane, making it a high performance fuel. The lead content in race gas (VP, Turbo Blue, Sunoco, Torco, etc.) boosts the octane also, except it's alcohol free to pass the tech fuel test for tractor pulling. And the valve seat(s) that's ground in a cast iron block in a pulling engine burning unleaded gas should last a long time, no longer than the tractor runs down the track (2-3 minutes per pull). They're not being driven a long distance, like in a car or truck.
Using
E85 Fuel in a Garden Tractor or Lawn & Garden Equipment -
What is E85? E85 is the term for motor fuel blends (special blend of automotive fuel) of 85% ethanol (corn alcohol AKA "moonshine") and 15% gasoline. E85 is an alternative fuel as defined by the U.S. Department of Energy. Besides its superior performance characteristics, ethanol burns cleaner than pure gasoline; it is a completely renewable, domestic, environmentally friendly fuel that enhances the nation's economy and energy independence. The addition of ethanol boosts octane and, because it is an oxygenate, ethanol contributes to a more complete fuel combustion resulting in reduced emissions of carbon monoxide and other ozone-forming emissions. Ethanol also degrades quickly in water and, therefore, poses much less risk to the environment than an oil or gasoline spill. To learn more about E85, visit this web site: National Ethanol Vehicle Coalition (http://www.e85fuel.com).
Fueling with E85 is not only beneficial to the environment, you'll most likely see a small increase in performance, which will be accompanied by a small decrease in fuel economy. On average, when an engine is powered by E85, the engine will have about 5% more horsepower and a 10% drop in fuel-efficiency. The added power comes from ethanol's higher octane rating (ranging from 100-105). The fuel economy decrease comes from the fact that ethanol has a lower energy content than gasoline, which means the engine will have to use more of it.
E85 can be used in virtually any gas engine fuel system, new or old. The only problem is, the rubber-like fuel line, seals and gaskets in the fuel system may deteriorate due to the alcohol content in E85. But if the fuel system has neoprene rubber or synthetic rubber parts, there should be no problems. E85 works great for pulling competition, general yard use or for any small engine equipment. It'll create less carbon build up in the combustion chamber, too. I've reworked lots of carburetors for people who use their garden tractor just to mow grass with and they love how the E85 produces more power. Their only complaint is the engine burns more fuel. But that's the sacrifice for more power. If an engine is converted correctly, E85 will cause no problems with engine wear or fuel system deterioration. Basically, all that needs to be done to the engine is the main jet and fuel inlet (float valve) hole in the carburetor will need to be made about 80% bigger and the ignition timing will need to be advanced about 20% more. If the main jet isn't enlarged, the engine probably won't run on E85, or if it does, it will run too lean on fuel, overheat the engine, possibly damage the valves, piston and piston rings because of the excessive operating temperature. And if the timing isn't advanced enough to thoroughly burn the [slower burning] E85 fuel, some of it will exit out the exhaust unburned, with no increase in power.
No special motor oil is required with E85. But with prolonged idling, the oil may need to be changed more often. The 20% increase in the main jet and fuel inlet holes, and ignition timing applies to virtually all small engine carburetors and engines, despite the make or manufacturer.
E85 can be purchased at select gas stations in the U.S. It cost less per gallon than regular unleaded gasoline. And an engine will burn about 20% more fuel than gas with E85, but it'll also produce about 10% more power, operate cooler, have a cleaner combustion chamber and the engine will last longer.
On the 7hp and 8hp Kohler K-series and Magnum engines, with the Carter model N #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetor, the hole in the main jet for 100% gasoline measures exactly 3/64" (.046") in diameter. To convert these carburetors for use with E85, enlarge the main jet and fuel inlet (float valve) holes with a 5/64" or #47 (.078") drill bit. NOTE: Drill the fuel inlet from the inside out (opposite flow of fuel), to prevent a burr that may cause the carburetor to leak fuel or flood. For best accuracy, use a small metal lathe to drill the hole. The ignition timing will also need to be advanced to 24 degrees BTDC so the engine will take full advantage and make maximum power of the slower burning, higher octane fuel. Then with the engine running at 3,600 rpm, adjust the high-speed fuel mixture needle valve so the engine runs smooth.
On the 10hp-16hp flathead single- and twin-cylinder Kohler K-series and Magnum engines with the older Carter or Kohler carburetors, the factory hole in the main jet size for 100% gasoline measures exactly 1/16" (.0625") in diameter. To convert these carburetors for use with E85, enlarge the main jet and fuel inlet (float valve) holes with a 3/32" or #42 (.094") drill bit. NOTE: Drill the fuel inlet from the inside out (opposite flow of fuel), to prevent a burr that may cause the carburetor to leak fuel or flood. For best accuracy, use a small metal lathe to drill the hole. The ignition timing will also need to be advanced to 24 degrees BTDC so the engine will make full advantage and make maximum power of the slower burning, higher octane fuel. Then with the engine running at 3,600 rpm, adjust the high-speed air/fuel mixture needle valve until the engine runs smoothly.
To convert virtually any 4-cycle engine (carburetor) to run on E85 fuel...
The Advantages of Using 100% Methanol Fuel -
If the carburetor have been reworked and the ignition timing are adjusted and set correctly, methanol can produce up to 13% increase in horsepower. If the fuel is set slightly rich (which it should be), there's no need to constantly adjust the carburetor settings and/or ignition timing to compensate for changes in hot or cold weather conditions. Because of its low volatile octane rating (ability to burn quick), methanol shouldn't be used for general yard use. It's primarily a high-performance fuel only, and should be used only in a high-performance engine. Starting fluid (ether) or gasoline may need to be sprayed or squirted into the carburetor to get the engine started in cooler weather, though. And, faster gearing may be needed because of the increase in horsepower and torque.
It may take some experimentation to get a particular tractor to perform on methanol. Just because most experienced pullers get their tractors hooked-up good on it is no reason anyone else can't. Once one do get their tractor to perform on methanol, they'll be reluctant to go back to gas. By the way - methanol can be purchased at most places that sell racing fuels. And it cost less than 1/3 of racing gas fuels (per gallon).
Using Methanol in a Garden Pulling Tractor -
Methanol, also known as wood alcohol, is made primary from natural gas. And is the best high performance fuel available. Far better than any expensive "racing" petroleum fuel. It'll help any 4-stroke high performance engine produce more power and run much cooler. Methanol is a safe fuel to use, too. But if anyone feels uncomfortable using or converting an engine for use of methanol, please consult with a professional engine builder.
Methanol will mix equally with water and it evaporates quickly. The important thing to remember when storing methanol is the keep it in an air tight container in a dry place. Because it can easily draw moisture when stored for a long period, especially in a metal container. (Unlike plastic, steel gets cold, which draws condensation.) If one suspects that water had gotten into the methanol, it can be separated easily by using chamois leather. The chamois will absorb the water and allow the methanol to pass through. If gas has 10% alcohol, then the alcohol will mix the water with the gas and it will appear to have no water at all. The only way to separate the water from the gas and alcohol is through a chamois. Again, the chamois will absorb the water and allow the fuels to drain through.
If your club's sanctioning rules say that the methanol fuel must be able to pass a water test, then just use 100% pure methanol with no oil. (To some clubs, oil is also known as a "contaminant.") Pure methanol will remain clear in water, but turn cloudy in water when mixed with oil. And it's important that the main fuel mixture on the carburetor be richened slightly, to keep from burning the piston (because of the lack of oil in the fuel).
Methanol has no effect on rubber, neoprene rubber or OEM carburetor or fuel system parts nor does it get stale like gas does. But it will corrode aluminum as plain water does if it is not drained and allowed to evaporate from the fuel system over an extended length of time.
Because methanol will ignite only in a narrow range of high temperatures, it is less likely to catch on fire should an accident occur. If methanol does catch on fire, water can extinguish the flames, unlike a gasoline fire.
Methanol burns much slower than the highest octane gasoline. (It has about 135 octane rating.) Therefore, the ignition timing must be advanced more than for gas when burning methanol. If the timing isn't advanced enough, some of the methanol will go unburned and little will be gained. Modifications to the point lobe on the camshaft may need to be made in order to achieve the full ignition timing setting. Methanol also requires a hotter spark. Therefore, a high-voltage/high performance ignition coil is needed, along with a wide spark plug gap (.060"). NOTE - Never run over-advanced ignition timing with any petroleum-based fuel (gas) just to try to get "more power." All that does is seriously overheat the engine and could weaken (collapse) the piston rings, shrink the piston, warp the cylinder head and exhaust valve and it could even cause the engine block to crack.
As methanol burns, it produces tremendous combustion chamber pressures under
wide-open throttle conditions, especially in engines that's been ported,
with oversized valves and a big cam, and even more so during cooler weather.
To prevent possible cylinder/crankcase separation or an "engine explosion,"
the cylinder must be securely "strapped" or fastened to the crankcase. Especially
on 12hp engines and up. So strap it now, or scrap it later! Methanol
works best in a high compression engine, too.
"Strapping" the cylinder to the crankcase is when a flat piece of heavy steel or aluminum is across the cylinder head and fastened by means of two minimum 1/2" diameter threaded rods, one located just behind the flywheel and the other on the PTO end of the block. It keeps the cylinder from literately breaking loose from the crankcase because of a thin cylinder wall and/or due to extremely high compression.
Moreover, if you had a 10hp block bored for a 12hp piston, or a 12hp block bored for a 14hp piston, and you use your tractor to push snow, definitely strap the cylinder to the crankcase! Because it now has a much thinner cylinder wall, and the cold winter air is more dense (like the air is thicker or there's more of it). Dense air will build up the compression pressure within the combustion chamber, causing the engine to produce more power. But what also happens is at full throttle, this high compression is pushing upward on the cylinder head, and pulling upward on the cylinder wall. And sometimes the cylinder wall will break, ruining the whole engine. I know, I've seen this happen to a good engine. No joke.
Methanol produces a "cooling effect" as it enters an engine at high velocity (high rpm). And, it's a clean burning fuel, it won't carbon up the combustion chamber, foul-out the spark plug or even harm the ozone layer. The crankcase motor oil may need to be changed periodically though.
Here's another thing concerning methanol fuel - when it evaporates, it leaves behind very small particles of white, flaky calcium deposits in the fuel system. Which is normal and unavoidable. These deposits can clog and ruin a good fuel filter, but will not harm the engine or any other part of the fuel system. So to keep from having any [future] fuel flow problems, don't install a fuel filter. Instead, strain the fuel with a paint filter, coffee filter, fine mesh screen wire, clean cloth shop towel or fine woven window curtain before it is poured into the fuel tank. Place the filtering material in a funnel, and pour the fuel through it into the tank. If there are any very small particles of dirt present in the fuel, they should pass right through the carburetor, being the jets have been enlarged.
The above also works great if you have some "questionable" dirty gas, and the gas is still fresh. At the price of gas nowadays, this would be better than throwing it out.
Fuel filters can only filter so much of a grain of dirt. Anything smaller will pass right through, most of time causing no harm. Sometimes a hair will pass through a wire mesh fuel filter, lodging in the float valve, keeping it closing all the way because it can't get past the bend. It'll cause the carburetor to flood overnight. I've seen this happen a few times. On certain small engines, the flooding gas will seep down into the motor oil, ruining it. Briggs & Stratton riding mower engines are notorious for this. All you can do is clean out the carburetor and hope it doesn't happen again. And if there's enough fresh gas in the crankcase, sometimes the crankcase will explode if the engine backfires through the carburetor. The backfire flame will sometimes travel through the valve cover and into the crankcase.
Most garden tractor carburetors can be easily converted for methanol use. The main thing to keep in mind is that methanol requires about twice the volume of fuel than gas. (Approximately a 5-6:1 ratio for methanol versus 10-12:1 ratio for gas). To run methanol, the main jet and fuel inlet (float valve) holes will need to be enlarged to about 95% of their original size.
High compression engines naturally operate at a higher operating temperature. When using low octane gasoline (Regular Unleaded or 87 octane rating) in a high compression engine, the octane of the gas is reduced by 1 point for every 10º above the normal operating combustion chamber temperature that it is formulated for. This will cause the gas to burn faster. When trying to restart a high compression overheated engine on low octane gas, what is happening is the gas is burning quickly and entirely in the combustion chamber, and producing expanding heat before the piston reaches TDC, driving the piston back down in the cylinder before it reaches TDC. This is the cause of detonation (pounding of the piston) and it'll cause the engine to "grunt" or momentarily make the crankshaft rotate in the opposite direction (but the weight of the flywheel prevents this from happening). Overheating could also crack the [cast iron] cylinder, shrink the piston, burn a hole in the piston (detonation) and weaken the expansion of the piston rings. Methanol fuel has an octane rating of 135. This is why methanol works best in a high-performance, high compression engine.
Did you know that high octane gas or "race car gas" (approximately 109-110 octane) is much better than any filling station pump gas when used in a high performance engine? Higher octane gas burns slow, producing more heat, thus allowing an engine to develop more power. Because heat is how an engine produces power. Methanol fuel produces even more heat than gas does.
Methanol never gets stale while setting around. It's burning factors (the qualities that produce power) remain intact until all of the fuel evaporates. Gasoline on the other hand, as it gets old or stale, it's burning factors is the first thing to go. Unlike methanol, eventually all that is left of the old gas is some "foul smelling residue." Methanol never smells "old."
If the air/fuel ratio isn't properly adjusted with both methanol or gasoline, possible engine damage may result. If either fuel is leaned-out too much, possible piston to cylinder wall scuffing, scoring or even seizure may result. If methanol is ran too rich, the oil on the cylinder wall may be diluted, causing excessive wear to the piston, rings and sometimes the cylinder wall. And if gas is ran too rich, loss in power may result with possible spark plug fouling. (Methanol is more forgiving to an engine than gas.)
A high performance cam, larger piston, big valves and a bigger carburetor will undoubtedly help gas-burning engines develop more power. But only from the use of the parts themselves. Methanol on the other hand, will help give an engine a little more boost. Simply from the fuel itself.
Engines will consume less fuel burning gas than methanol. Something good for gas and not for methanol. Which is why methanol is not used on the open market in daily driven automobiles.
Some racing gasolines could eventually cause an engine to wear prematurely when used under high performance conditions (and if the ignition timing is over-advanced). Piston wear, piston ring expansion failure, valve warping, even motor oil breakdown could result over time due to the high operating temperatures of gas in a high compression engine. (Especially on air cooled engines with no cooling system.)
An engine runs cooler burning methanol than gas. The reason why? Approximately twice the amount of methanol fuel enters an engine. There's more fuel per parts of air. As a result, this allows an engine to operate at a much cooler temperature. Gasoline on the other hand, runs less fuel per parts of air. Therefore, it's a "lean" burning fuel. Gas allows a high-compression engine to operate at a higher temperature. Which in turn could cause premature engine wear. Simply because too much heat itself will cause a good engine to wear out faster than anything else.
For more information on methanol, click here: Erowid Alcohol Vault : Methanol Material Safety Data Sheet and Race fuel - Alcohol fuels.
100% ethanol (moonshine) and denatured alcohol burns pretty much the same as 100% methanol. There's very little difference between these alcohol fuels. If an engine is converted correctly for use with these fuels, it will produce the same amount of power, run cooler and last longer.
On the K90, K141, K160, K161, K181/M8 Kohler K-series and Magnum engines, with the Carter model N #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetor, the hole in the main jet size for 100% gasoline measures exactly 3/64" (.046") in diameter. To convert these carburetors for use with methanol, enlarge the main jet and fuel inlet (float valve) holes with a 3/32" (.094") diameter drill bit. NOTE: Drill the fuel inlet from the inside out (opposite flow of fuel), to prevent a burr that may cause the carburetor to leak fuel or flood. For best accuracy, use a small metal lathe to drill the hole. The ignition timing will also need to be advanced to 30 degrees BTDC so the engine will take full advantage and make maximum power of the slower burning, higher octane fuel. Then with the engine running at 3,600 rpm, adjust the high-speed fuel mixture needle valve so the engine runs smooth.
On the 10hp-16hp single- and twin-cylinder Kohler K-series and Magnum engines Carter or Kohler carburetors with the fully adjustable high speed main jet, the factory hole in the main jet size for 100% gasoline measures exactly 1/16" (.0625") in diameter. To convert these carburetors for use with methanol, the main jet and fuel inlet (float valve) holes will also need to be enlarged with a 7/64" (.109") drill bit. NOTE: Drill the fuel inlet from the inside out (opposite flow of fuel), to prevent a burr that may cause the carburetor to leak fuel or flood. For best accuracy, use a small metal lathe to drill the hole. The ignition timing will also need to be advanced to 30 degrees BTDC so the engine will take full advantage and make maximum power of the slower burning, higher octane fuel. Then if it's a stock engine, with the engine running at 3,600 rpm, adjust the high-speed air/fuel mixture needle valve until the engine runs smoothly.
To convert virtually any 4-cycle engine to run on 100% denatured alcohol, 100% ethanol or methanol fuels for a fully adjustable high speed main jet...
Testing Methanol Fuel for Contaminants - (Updated 1/20/11)
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It's a good idea to use a small amount of special upper cylinder
lubricant (such as
Lucas Oil,
M2 Upper Lube
& Lead Additive,
Marvel Mystery
Oil, etc.) mixed with methanol to prevent possible piston-to-cylinder
scoring and to help lubricate the valve stems and guides. If a lubricant
isn't used and if methanol is ran too lean (especially in cool weather),
this could ruin a good high-dollar piston and possibly score the cylinder
wall. Methanol must be ran rich if no lubricant is mixed with it. But some
sanctioning pulling rules (such as the
NQS)
don't allow lubricant to be mixed with methanol because it boosts the octane
and will likely fail in a fuel test, which means the tractor will be disqualified
after competing. The more oil that is added, the higher the octane will
be.
When pulling under rules that require 100% methanol fuel, and if a tractor have been using methanol with a lubricant, be sure to completely drain and flush the entire fuel system. Use [150± psi] compressed air to clear out the fuel tank, fuel line, fuel pump, carburetor, etc. Because any trace amount of lubricant remaining will mix with the methanol and be cause for failure in a fuel test. Some new neoprene rubber fuel lines contains oil. This means if 100% methanol is supposed to be used, the fuel line must be flushed with a solvent (paint thinner), then use [150± psi] compressed air to clear it out, and then allow it to thoroughly air-dry. Methanol by itself is clear, like water. To test it for an added lubricant, pour a small amount of methanol in a clean, clear capped glass container with a small amount of oil, then shake it. If it appears "cloudy," it's contaminated. You can also smell methanol for contaminants. The Fuel Rule for the 2013 NQS Classes Are As Follows: All tractors in all classes are to run methanol, with no additives (except for diesel fueled tractors). There are two U.S. Federal Grades. Grade A and AA. Either grade is permitted to use. Pullers should ensure that the methanol they purchase meets federal standards of purity. Methanol is tested at all NQS events by various chemical analyses as considered appropriate by the NQS Fuel Tech personnel. Deviation from the standards listed below in the fuel sample will result in disqualification. Methanol is a hygroscopic substance and readily absorbs moisture from the air, which rapidly renders methanol illegal as a fuel for use in NQS pulling. Pullers are cautioned to keep methanol containers tightly sealed at all times to minimize the absorption of water. |
I remember when gasoline for certain automotive engines was for
the following compression ratios: Anything up to 9.25:1, it was okay to use
Regular (low octane); between 9.25-10.5:1 required Premium (mid octane);
and anything above 10.5:1 required Ethyl (high octane). I'd also like to
share this old gas station joke: Car owner: "Fill 'er up... Ethyl!" Gas station
attendant: "I'll fill up your car, but don't call me Ethel."
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Using a Gravity Feed Fuel Flow System -
When burning gas only (not methanol) and if an engine is going to turn no faster than approximately 4,000 rpm (governed limit; the factory setting of maximum rpm for virtually all small gas engines, including all of Kohler engines is 3,600), then a gravity feed fuel system with the gas tank mounted higher than the carburetor, stock fuel fittings and fuel line should work fine. (Gravity feed is defined as when the lowest part of the gas tank is positioned higher than the carburetor, and there's no fuel pump involved.)
If the gas tank sets higher
than the carburetor, and if a large i.d. fuel line and fittings are used,
and if the float level is set a little high, then a gravity feed fuel system
should work great for a stock engine turning no more than 4,000 rpm. But
a vacuum-operated (or pulse-type), mechanical or electric fuel pump will
guarantee that the carburetor will not starve for fuel about halfway down
the track. Also, carefully enlarge the fuel inlet valve seat hole to 7/64"
(.109"). This will allow more delivery of fuel in the float bowl so the engine
will not starve for fuel halfway down the track. Be sure to set the
float a little high too, so as it drops down, the fuel inlet valve will open
more, allowing more fuel to be deposited in the float bowl.
FYI - All vacuum-operated fuel pumps operate off of the crankcase pressure. The moving piston(s) inside the crankcase of the engine create the pulsating effect to activate the pump's diaphragm. And all crankcase-pulse, vacuum-operated fuel pumps come with three fittings - one that connects to the crankcase of the engine block and an IN and OUT fuel line fittings. It should say on the body of the pump where each fitting connects to. But if it doesn't, then the fitting coming from the center of the pump connects to the crankcase vent. And the other two fittings, one connect to the gas tank and the other connects to the carburetor.
If an engine in an ATV or UTV sputters and/or dies after going over rough terrain, this could be caused by a defective vacuum-operated fuel pump. Overtime, the fuel pump bodies become warped and oil in the crankcase is preventing air from working the diaphragm the way it should. If the engine has a 12 volt electrical system with a charging system, it'll be better to install a low pressure electric fuel pump. (Listed further down in this web site.) These rarely give trouble.
To test a plastic crankcase-pulse, vacuum-operated fuel pump, first check that the fuel line (hose) between the gas tank and fuel pump is open and unobstructed, or if it has dry-rot cracks, which can cause a vacuum leak. To test it, disconnect the fuel line from the fuel pump and wrap a shop/business towel or clean rag around an air blower nozzle and then insert the nozzle with the rag or towel in the gas tank filler neck. Apply light air pressure in the tank. If fuel comes out of the fuel line, then it's open. After that, reconnect the fuel line to the fuel pump. To test the fuel pump itself, first check the hose that connects the fuel pump to the engine crankcase to see if it has a kink in it or if it has dry-rot cracks, which can also cause a vacuum leak. If it's in good condition, then the final step is to disconnect the fuel line from the carburetor and with adequate amount of fuel in the gas tank, crank the engine and at the same time observe how much fuel is being pumped out of the pump. If there seems to be adequate amount of fuel coming from it, hold your finger over the end of the line and while still cranking the engine, it should build up a small amount of pressure. If none or very little fuel comes out of the pump, then it's bad and needs replacing.
When a vacuum-operated fuel pump fails to pump fuel, in most cases, the body of the fuel pump will become warped, causing a vacuum leak either from within or from the outside, preventing the diaphragm from pulsating. If the diaphragm is still flexible, chances are, the pump can be repaired by resurfacing the body halves on a flat sanding disc until they're perfectly flat again.
What Exactly Is "Vapor Lock"?
Vapor lock only happens with certain older carbureted cars and trucks with a mechanical fuel pump that's fastened to the engine block. Vapor lock occurs when the [metal] gas line is too close to the hot exhaust, and when the vehicle is in slow traffic, the fuel is moving very slow in the line. Due to extreme heat from the exhaust and on a hot day, and the fan blade not blowing that much air past the exhaust, sometimes the heat will cause the gas to boil, forming air bubbles or air pockets, and the fuel vaporizes, and then the fuel pump can't pump vaporized fuel (air). So as soon as the carburetor runs out of fuel, the engine stalls. The fuel pump will "lock" with vapors trapped inside it. When the vehicle cools, incoming gas will force the air out of the fuel pump and through the carburetor, allowing the fuel to return to the pump, and then the engine will start and run again. This don't happen nowadays with automobiles having fuel injection because the entire fuel line is pressurized.
But on lawn tractors or garden tractors, the fuel line is located nowhere near the hot exhaust. What is really happening when the engine stalls, is either the fuel system is dirty, the ignition coil is bad, or there's insufficient valve to lifter clearance.
Using a Mechanical Fuel Pump -
Mechanical plastic
and metal body fuel pumps are very durable and they work pretty well, for
both yard machines and stock competitive pulling with gas. The diaphragm
or gaskets rarely goes bad in the mechanical fuel pumps. It's usually one
or both of the poppet valves that goes bad. They can become dislodged, or
rusted or corroded from long term water contamination. If the poppet valves
are in good condition, and if the pump doesn't pump fuel, then in most cases,
the fuel pump body halves become warped, creating a vacuum leak. The halves
can be resurfaced on a flat sanding disc until perfectly flat and then the
pump should work as good as a new one. (I use the side of the cutting
wheel on my 14" chop saw. Works great! Be sure to use eye protection!)
If it's a plastic body pump, be sure to use a
deburring tool after sanding and thoroughly clean all parts
with [150± psi] compressed air before reassembly! If this doesn't fix
the problem, then perhaps a new or used reconditioned pump is in order.
To test the fuel pump for fuel flow off the engine, submerge the inlet port in a container of clean (filtered) cleaning solvent (paint thinner) and then work the lever quickly by hand. The solvent should squirt forcibly out the outlet port. If the pump doesn't start pumping right away, submerge the entire fuel pump in the solvent and work the lever to prime it and remove the air internally. After checking to see how well it works, to test the psi, a low-pressure gauge can be connected to the outlet port. The pressure should be 1-½ to 2 psi. To increase the pressure to about 2-½ psi (maximum), disassemble the pump and physically stretch the diaphragm pressure spring until it's about 3/4" longer than original length. To increase the volume (more fuel flow), the stroke of the fuel pump lobe on the camshaft would need to be lengthened approximately 1/8" by welding it up on the high side and reground deeper on the low side. Or better yet, use an electric fuel pump.
The only problem when using a gasket to fasten the fuel pump to the block is, being the mounting flange is so thin, it will warp over time, causing an oil leak. (This happens to every pump I've seen.) To fix this, and to [possibly] prevent an oil leak in the future, completely disassemble the pump, remove the lever and arm (be careful not to lose the spring) and use a flat sanding disc to resurface the mounting flange until it's perfectly flat. The trick to reinstalling the spring is, reinstall the arm, lever and support pin in the pump body first, then install the spring with a small, flat screwdriver. (The pumps with the primer lever is harder to reassemble.) To keep the flange from warping again, fasten it directly to the block using only Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant and no gasket. And install a flat washer (and of course, a split lock washer) under each mounting screw head to distribute the pressure on the flange evenly and to prevent the screws from loosening. By the way - I've always preferred to use Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant for two reasons: it bonds parts together, forming a leak-proof seal; and being it's clear, it makes for a clean and professional-looking repair job. It can't be seen between the parts.
FYI - All of Kohler's 10-16hp
flatheads and the OHV 18hp engines come with a lobe on the cam to activate
the mechanical fuel pump. The fuel pump installs with the lever positioned
upwards. And if there's no provision for mounting a mechanical fuel pump,
a 3/4" center hole and two small threaded bolt holes will need to be drilled,
and the mounting holes tapped for 1/4-20 NC threads. Use a fuel pump mounting
gasket as a templet.
When running a pulling engine at wide open throttle, sometimes the engine will starve for fuel with gravity feed fuel system. Therefore, Kohler's camshaft-driven mechanical fuel pump or a low-pressure electric fuel pump should be used to guarantee that the carburetor will receive plenty of fuel at all times. The mechanical pump should be used on a pulling tractor when burning gas only. They're not capable of delivering sufficient amount of fuel with E85 or methanol at high rpms like an electric pump will.
Troubleshooting a Faulty Vacuum-Operated or Mechanical Fuel Pump -
If an engine sits for about one week or longer, if the fuel in the carburetor evaporates and it's hard to start, or fuel must be squirted into the carburetor to get the engine started, then this means that the vacuum-operated or mechanical fuel pump may be bad. The inlet valve in the pump is leaking, which is allowing the fuel to drain back into the gas tank with the engine off. As the pump tries to syphon fuel from the tank to refill the carburetor, it's unable because the inlet valve is bad. Solution: a new fuel pump will need to be installed. When a vacuum or mechanical fuel pump quits working, below are the causes:
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Advertisement:
| If you need any of the items listed below, please contact
A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia,
MO 65203-9136 USA | Phone:
1-573-875-4033. Please call Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone,
except holidays. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. You can
also contact us through Yahoo! Messenger:
Go here for more parts: Carburetor, Fuel System Parts & Machine Shop Services |
|
New mechanical
plastic body "new style" fuel pump for Kohler K90/K91 (4hp), K141 (6¼hp),
K160 (6.6hp), K161 (7hp) and K181/M8 (8hp) K-series and Magnum (flathead)
single cylinder cast iron block engines. New pumps with the primer lever
are no longer available. Kohler part # 41 559 05-S.
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|
Mechanical plastic
body "new style" fuel pump for Kohler K-series and Magnum models K241/M10
(10hp), K301/M12 (12hp), K321/M14 (14hp), K330/K331 (12½hp), K341/M16
(16hp) flatheads and K361 (18hp OHV) single cylinder cast iron block engines.
New pumps with the primer lever are no longer available. Kohler part
# 47 559 11-S.
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|
 Mechanical plastic
body "new style" fuel pump for Kohler models KT-17, KT-19, M15, MV16, M18,
MV18, M20 and MV20 Magnum series flathead twin cylinder engines. New pumps
with the primer lever are no longer available. Kohler part # 52 559 03-S.
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|
 Mechanical plastic
body "new style" fuel pump for Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582 twin
cylinder flathead engines. New pumps with the primer lever are no longer
available. Kohler part # 48 559 05-S.
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|
 Rebuilt Kit
for Kohler's metal body mechanical (Carter) fuel pumps. No longer available
from Kohler. Made in USA. Replaces Kohler part #'s 230675-S, 231597-S.
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Fuel Pump Mounting Gasket. Kohler part # 25 041 10-S.
|
 Fuel Pump Hole
Block-Off Plate. Made of 1/8" mild steel. OEM Kohler part # 240282-S.
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 Fuel Pump Mounting Screws.
1/4-20 NC threads x 3/4" long. Phillips head. Comes with split lock washer.
Kohler part # X-174-2-S.
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When to Use an Electric Fuel Pump -
One nice thing about electric fuel pumps besides they're very reliable, is that they're self-priming. Meaning when an engine runs out of gas, the engine won't have to be cranked a lot (making yourself tired from a rope starter, or risk burning up an electric starter from excessive cranking) waiting for a vacuum or mechanical pump to put gas to the carburetor. As soon as the ignition is turned on (if the electric pump is wired in with the ignition circuit), the electric pump instantly puts gas to the carburetor.
An
electric fuel pump that requires no fuel regulator and works great on virtually
any garden tractor engine or up to a 4 cylinder automotive engine with a
carburetor is the Facet-Purolator Automotive Electronic Fuel Pump.
Facet's part number is FEP 42SV, and Purolator's part numbers are
PRO 42S (1.5 - 4 p.s.i.) or PRO 42SV (2 - 3.5 p.s.i.). There's
also a Mr. Gasket 42S low pressure universal electric fuel pump, and another
electric fuel pump is available at
NAPA auto parts
stores. It's part # 6101051 (which is actually a FACET # 610-1051 electric
pump), and is called a POSI-FLO fuel pump. Specifications are: 12 Volts;
1.5-4 PSI; 25 gal./hr.; compatible with all fuel additives; eliminates vapor
lock; two wire design and self-priming. When searching the
NAPA
auto parts web site, use part # BK 6101051. Low pressure electric fuel
pumps are also available on
eBay.
The Facet-Purolator pumps are compact, vibration-proof (has solid state dependability), self-priming, easy to install and connect the wiring. They work with either gas, E85 or methanol fuels, won't flood the carburetor, draw very little amperage from the battery, and they cost less than most OEM electric fuel pumps. They're available at most auto parts stores and on eBay. They're perfect for garden tractors having either a single- or two-cylinder engine!
When burning E85 or methanol fuels, more fuel volume (increase in flow) is required and an electric fuel pump should be used. The carburetor on most garden tractor engines don't require a lot of fuel pressure.
An electric fuel pump that's made
for an import car/truck produce more flow than any of Kohler's mechanical
pumps, and in most cases, they don't produce not enough pressure to flood
the carburetor. With some high-pressure electric fuel pumps however, an
adjustable fuel pressure regulator with a fuel gauge may need to be used
in-line. Install a "T" in the fuel line and connect the gauge between the
fuel pump or fuel regulator and carburetor. To begin with, set the regulator
at about 2-1/2 p.s.i. Make the final adjustment on the fuel pressure at
wide
open throttle, hooked to the sled, while going down the track. Use a
quality fuel pressure gauge that can withstand the vibrations of a garden
pulling tractor to monitor the pressure.
Another good thing about an electric fuel pump verses a mechanical pump (if the mechanical pump doesn't have a primer lever, which must be primed manually) is if an engine runs out of fuel, the engine will not have to be cranked for a long time to get the fuel pumped up to the carburetor, which can be hard on an electric starter motor.
When wiring up an electric fuel pump on the tractor with battery ignition, the pump should come with detailed instructions. But if there's no instructions, then connect one wire (usually black in color) to the chassis of the tractor (ground), and the other wire (usually red in color) to the ignition system. The wire going to the coil from the ignition switch is a good one to connect to. On a tractor with magneto ignition, use a separate OFF/ON toggle switch for the fuel pump.
How To Prepare a Fuel Pump for Wintertime or Long-Term Storage -
If the engine is equipped with an electric or mechanical fuel pump, squirt about a teaspoon-full of clean motor oil or automatic transmission fluid in the pump so the diaphragm will remain flexible or rotor vanes won't stick and to prevent the poppet valves from sticking or become corroded.
Advertisement:
| If you need your Carter, Kohler or Walbro carburetor rebuilt for daily
use or if you want your carburetor professionally reworked for high-performance
use on a Stock, Stock-Altered or Pro-Stock tractor, or if you wish to buy
a rebuilt carburetor, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises
| 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-875-4033. Please
call Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone, except holidays. If no
answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient
because I stutter.) Fax:
1-573-449-7347. E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. You can
also contact us through Yahoo! Messenger:
Go here for more parts: Carburetor, Fuel System Parts & Machine Shop Services |
FYI: I can professionally rebuild older vintage and antique carburetors virtually of any kind as well as newer ones, as long as replacement parts are available. I also have the capability to fabricate new throttle and choke shafts. Please contact us if you have any questions.
Carburetor Repairs - YOUR 10hp-18hp Carter, Kohler or Walbro carburetor: FYI - Many of my customers send me their carburetors for rebuilding, but lots of times I couldn't find anything wrong them. So I'd call my customers just before returning their carburetor asking how their engine acted. And after hearing their story, I told them that their engines might need a valve job performed instead. And lo and behold! Many of them either adjusted the valves or had a professional valve job performed and said that their engines ran like new. I'm not saying this happens with all engines, only the majority of them.
Basic Rebuild Includes: ü Completely disassemble and clean carburetor. High-Performance Modification on #26, #28 or #30 Carter or Kohler carburetors for use with Gas, E85 or Methanol fuels - $85.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling. Work includes what's listed above plus whatever parts and services it may need that's listed below. High-Performance Modifications Includes Everything Above, Plus... ü Bore venturi to a 1" limit (.995" NQS legal size), straight-through design (to match the diameter of the throttle bore) or whatever your club's sanctioning rules allow. Read your rules carefully to make sure! I'll need a copy of your club's sanctioning rules regarding the legality of the carburetor, so when I rework it, it'll be legal for use in the class you plan to pull in.
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| Professionally Rebuilt and New Carburetors For Sale - Note: I set the air/fuel adjusters on all carburetors that I rebuild somewhat close so the engine will start and run, but because of the attitude, air temperature and engine design, you'll need to make the final adjustments. And the carburetors that I sell come with a 30 day workmanship warranty and are guaranteed to be free of defects. Other carburetor services listed further down in the web site. |
 
Carburetors for Kohler K-series K90/K91 (4hp) flathead cast iron block engines.
These are plain, stock carburetors that's been completely disassembled,
thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt. All fuel passageways cleared, new parts and
if necessary, a bushing and/or new throttle shaft installed. No performance
modifications are made to these carburetors whatsoever. All rebuilt carburetors
that we service and sell come with a 30 day workmanship warranty and are
guaranteed to be free of defects. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments
will be preset on the carburetor to get the engine running, but due to your
altitude, you will need to make the final adjustments so the engine will
run smooth.
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Carburetors for Kohler K-series and Magnum
models K141 (6¼hp), K160 (6.6hp), K161 (7hp), K181/M8 (8hp) flathead
cast iron block engines. These are plain, stock carburetors that's been
completely disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt. All fuel passageways
cleared, new parts and if necessary, a bushing and/or new throttle shaft
installed. No performance modifications are made to these carburetors whatsoever.
All rebuilt carburetors that we service and sell come with a 30 day workmanship
warranty and are guaranteed to be free of defects. The idle speed and air/fuel
mixture adjustments will be preset on the carburetor to get the engine running,
but due to your altitude, you will need to make the final adjustments so
the engine will run smooth.
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Carburetors for Kohler K-series and Magnum
models K241/M10 (10hp) and K301/M12 (12hp) flathead cast iron block engines.
These are plain, stock carburetors that's been completely disassembled,
thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt. All fuel passageways cleared, new parts and
if necessary, a bushing and/or new throttle shaft installed. No performance
modifications made to these carburetors whatsoever. Comes with choke plate
installed. For gas or E85. Please indicate if for a Kohler "Quiet Line" engine
with the oblong-shaped air
filter housing housing, or for an engine with the
round air filter housing
housing. (The choke lever and air filter housing mounting holes are
different.) No performance modifications are made to these carburetors
whatsoever. All rebuilt carburetors that we service and sell come with a
30 day workmanship warranty and are guaranteed to be free of defects. The
idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be preset on the carburetor
to get the engine running, but due to your altitude, you will need to make
the final adjustments so the engine will run smooth.
|
Carburetors for Kohler K-series and Magnum
models K321/M14 and (14hp) and K341/M16 (16hp) flathead cast iron block engines.
These are plain, stock carburetors that's been completely disassembled,
thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt. All fuel passageways cleared, new parts and
if necessary, a bushing and/or new throttle shaft installed. No performance
modifications made to these carburetors whatsoever. Comes with choke plate
installed. For gas or E85. Please indicate if for a Kohler "Quiet
Line" engine with the
oblong-shaped air filter housing
housing, or for an engine with the
round air filter housing
housing. (The choke lever and air filter housing mounting holes are
different.) No performance modifications are made to these carburetors
whatsoever. All rebuilt carburetors that we service and sell come with a
30 day workmanship warranty and are guaranteed to be free of defects. The
idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be preset on the carburetor
to get the engine running, but due to your altitude, you will need to make
the final adjustments so the engine will run smooth.
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Carburetors
for Kohler KT-series and Magnum models KT17, KT17II, KT19, KT19II, M18, MV18,
M20 and MV20 cast iron, flathead twin cylinder engines. These are plain,
stock carburetors that's been completely disassembled, thoroughly cleaned
and rebuilt. All fuel passageways cleared, new parts and if necessary, a
bushing and/or new throttle shaft installed. No performance modifications
made to these carburetors whatsoever. Comes with choke plate installed. Set
up for gas. No performance modifications are made to these carburetors
whatsoever. When ordering, please specify the position of the choke lever.
All rebuilt carburetors that we service and sell come with a 30 day
workmanship warranty and are guaranteed to be free of defects. The idle speed
and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be preset on the carburetor to get
the engine running, but due to your altitude, you will need to make the final
adjustments so the engine will run smooth.
|
 Unaltered and Fully Adjustable
Genuine Original OEM Kohler (not Walbro or aftermarket) carburetors for Kohler
engine models K482 (18hp), K532 (20hp) and K582 (23hp). The idle speed and
air/fuel mixture adjustments will be preset on the carburetor to get the
engine running, but due to your altitude, you will need to make the final
adjustments so the engine will run smooth.
|
  Rebuilt, reworked and modified only for high-performance
use, #26 Carter or Kohler carburetors. The venturi in these carburetors can
be bored so they'll have either a 7/8", 1" (.995" NQS legal) venturi or a
1.07" straight-through throttle bore for high rpm operation, setup for gas,
E85 or methanol fuels, whatever your club's sanctioning rules allow or whatever
you desire for all-out engine performance. These carburetors are completely
disassembled, then thoroughly cleaned. All fuel passageways cleared, new
parts and a new throttle shaft and/or bushing are installed if necessary.
The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be preset on the carburetor
to get the engine running, but due to your altitude, you will need to make
the final adjustments so the engine will run smooth.
NOTE: These carburetors are designed for use on Stock and Stock-Altered pulling engines with a stock size or an oversize intake valve. Also, a high-performance carburetor is designed solely for a high-performance engine. Just bolting on a high performance carburetor is not how to gain more power and torque for a stock engine. If your engine is not a high-performance engine built to race specs, then it will not benefit from a high-performance carburetor whatsoever. These carburetors will not allow a stock "factory-built engine" to produce lots of power just by bolting it it on. Everything in the engine MUST work together to prevent air restriction or a "bottleneck" to slow down air flow. With a bigger carburetor, the engine needs to breath A LOT more air in and out of the combustion chamber. This means the intake and exhaust ports will need to be made bigger, the valves reworked for more airflow, a bigger cam will need to be installed, and the ignition system will need to be up to standards. Also, these carburetors are "built to order." So when placing an order, please specify if your engine has a factory stock size or oversize intake valve, if you want it with a straight-thru throttle bore (no venturi) or a 1" (.995" NQS legal) venturi, if the engine is going to turn around 4,000 rpm or at wide open throttle, and if you want the choke plate/shaft installed. All rebuilt carburetors that we service and sell come with a 30 day workmanship warranty and are guaranteed to be free of defects.
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| Rebuilt, reworked and modified only for high-performance
use, #30 Carter or Kohler carburetors. The venturi in these carburetors can
be bored so they'll have a 1.2" straight-through throttle bore, setup for
gas, E85 or methanol fuels, whatever your club's sanctioning rules allow
or whatever you desire for all-out engine performance. These carburetors
are completely disassembled, then thoroughly cleaned. All fuel passageways
cleared, new parts and a new throttle shaft and/or bushing are installed
if necessary. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be preset
on the carburetor to get the engine running, but due to your altitude, you
will need to make the final adjustments so the engine will run smooth.
NOTE: These carburetors are designed for use on Stock and Stock-Altered pulling engines with a stock size or an oversize intake valve. Also, a high-performance carburetor is designed solely for a high-performance engine. Just bolting on a high performance carburetor is not how to gain more power and torque for a stock engine. If your engine is not a high-performance engine built to race specs, then it will not benefit from a high-performance carburetor whatsoever. These carburetors will not allow a stock "factory-built engine" to produce lots of power just by bolting it it on. Everything in the engine MUST work together to prevent air restriction or a "bottleneck" to slow down air flow. With a bigger carburetor, the engine needs to breath A LOT more air in and out of the combustion chamber. This means the intake and exhaust ports will need to be made bigger, the valves reworked for more airflow, a bigger cam will need to be installed, and the ignition system will need to be up to standards. Also, these carburetors are "built to order." So when placing an order, please specify if your engine has a factory stock size or oversize intake valve, if you want it with a straight-thru throttle bore (no venturi) or a 1" (.995" NQS legal) venturi, if the engine is going to turn around 4,000 rpm or at wide open throttle, and if you want the choke plate/shaft installed. All rebuilt carburetors that we service and sell come with a 30 day workmanship warranty and are guaranteed to be free of defects.
|
How To Convert a Carter
or Kohler Carburetor For High Performance Use At Any Engine Rpm -
By boring out the venturi (the smallest part of a throttle bore) and reworking the Carter or Kohler carburetor, this will "open up the carburetor" and allow the engine to draw more air into the combustion chamber so it can build up more compression, which will allow it to produce more power. (It'll be like going from a 2-barrel carburetor to a 4-barrel on a V8 automotive engine.) The below has been proven to work very well, and it equals the performance of the popular and high performance "Super Carb" carburetor.
Grind
an angle on the main nozzle. To do this correctly so the engine will accelerate
without hesitation...
Use a felt tip marker
(Sharpie) to locate where to grind the angle on the end
of the main jet/nozzle:
Due to normal engine vibrations
at high rpms, plug the original atmospheric vent hole(s) and then drill a
3/32" hole on the side of the carburetor body in alignment with the atmospheric
vent hole passageway in case of gas overflow and/or so the engine won't possibly
run erratically rich on fuel. Or for safety and convenience, install a remote
fuel primer kit as described further down in this web site.
Ê
Because the engine will draw
more fuel (and air) with a bored-out venturi, offset the float level with
the carburetor body when the carburetor is turned upside-down. This will
permit the float to drop down more, allowing more fuel to enter the float
bowl to prevent the engine from starving for fuel at high rpms. See the drawing
to the right. à
How to Convert the #26, #28 or #30 Carter or Kohler Carburetor to the Bottom Main Fuel Adjuster -
Due to normal
engine vibrations well above 4,000 rpm, or at wide open throttle, the pointed
tip of the OEM high speed needle adjuster will "vibrate around" in the lower
hole of the main jet/nozzle. Due to normal engine vibrations at wide open
throttle, the tip of the adjuster will wear the hole larger, causing the
engine to eventually run rich on fuel, which will make further lean adjustments
impossible. This will happen with gas or alcohol fuels. There is no way to
prevent this except convert the carburetor to the bottom main fuel adjuster.
This has been proven to work flawlessly for high-rpm competitive pulling.
And when the carburetor is reworked with the venturi bored out (straight-through
throttle bore design) for high performance use, it equals the performance
of the popular "Super Carb" carburetor. (Which I think is a very fine performance
carburetor.)
And if you're wondering if the presence of the OEM high speed needle adjuster tube will slow the airflow through the "straight through" throttle bore, well, the throttle plate and shaft are about 30% wider even with the throttle shaft ground or machined thin to increase the air flow.
FYI - The only purpose for this is to prevent the bottom hole in the main jet/nozzle from eventually becoming enlarged at high rpms. Otherwise, there is no performance gain from doing this whatsoever.
Here's how to convert the carburetor to a bottom fuel adjuster:
Advertisement:
| If you need a High Speed
Bottom Main Fuel Adjuster, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises
| 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-875-4033. Please
call Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone, except holidays. If no
answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient
because I stutter.) Fax:
1-573-449-7347. E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. You can
also contact us through Yahoo! Messenger:
Go here for more parts: Carburetor, Fuel System Parts & Machine Shop Services |
Using a Bigger Air Filter
on a Pulling Engine -
If an engine has a carburetor with a bored-out venturi, bigger ports, bigger valves, a big cam and it runs at wide open throttle, then it will definitely benefit from use of a bigger air filter. All of these things will undoubtedly allow an engine to draw in a lot more air at high rpms. If rules require that the engine must have an air filter, stack two air filters on top of each other (install a longer mounting stud, too), or use an OEM K341/K361 or twin cylinder air filter housing assembly (they're twice as tall than the 10, 12 or 14hp air filter) or install a velocity stack and use an aftermarket K&N air filter. The bigger air filter is so free-flowing and less restrictive, using an air filter this size would the same as not using an air filter all. The shorter 10, 12 or 14hp air filter housing assembly is too restrictive for wide open throttle operation. But if it's a basically stock engine with a stock carburetor, stock size ports and valves, and a stock cam, there'll be very little gained with a bigger air filter. If you pull on a lot of dusty tracks, then it would be worth investing in an air filter to save wear on the engine.
Part needed: Several inches
of 1/4-20 NC mild steel threaded rod (All Thread or a long threaded bolt).
| If you need any of the items listed below, please contact
A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia,
MO 65203-9136 USA | Phone:
1-573-875-4033. Please call Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone,
except holidays. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. You can
also contact us through Yahoo! Messenger:
|
|
| NOTE: All parts listed here are NEW, unless otherwise stated. I do not sell cheap junk! As a matter of fact, most OEM Kohler parts are made in China now. Kohler owns some of the factories in China that make the parts. And most aftermarket parts are also made by Kohler in China. Kohler just place the part(s) in a generic box and sell them for less money. So when purchasing a genuine OEM Kohler part that comes in a box with the Kohler name on it, you're really just paying more money for the name. | |
 Carburetor Mounting
Gasket for Carter model N #16, #18, #20, #22 and Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetors
used on K90/K91 (4hp), K141 (6¼hp), K160 (6.6hp), K161 (7hp) and K181/M8
(8hp) Kohler K-series and Magnum flathead cast iron block engines. Approximately
1/32" thickness. Kohler part # 210223-S.
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|
 Air Filter Housing
Mounting Gasket for Carter model N #16, #18, #20, #22 and Walbro WHL #36,
#44 carburetors used on K90/K91 (4hp), K141 (6¼hp), K160 (6.6hp), K161
(7hp) and K181 (8hp) Kohler K-series flathead cast iron block engines and
most aluminum block Tecumseh engines. Approximately 1/32" thickness. Use
with two mounting screws only. Tecumseh part # 27272A. (This is a Tecumseh
part that happens to fit the Carter model N and Walbro WHG carburetors
perfectly.)
|
 Alternate Air Filter Housing
Mounting Gasket for Carter model N #16, #18, #20, #22 and Walbro WHL #36,
#44 carburetors used on K90/K91 (4hp), K141 (6¼hp), K160 (6.6hp), K161
(7hp) and K181/M8 (8hp) Kohler K-series and Magnum flathead cast iron block
engines. Use with two or three mounting screws. Approximately 1/32" thickness.
Kohler part # 41 041 11-S.
|
 Carburetor Mounting Gasket
for Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors
used on Kohler K-series and Magnum models K241 (10hp), K301 (12hp), K321
(14hp), K330/K331 (12½hp), K341 (16hp) flatheads, K361 (18hp OHV) and
twin cylinder cast iron block engines. Approximately 1/32" thickness. For
general yard work. Kohler part # 271030-S.
|
 Heat Isolator Carburetor
Mounting Gasket for Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHG #52, #60,
#64 carburetors used on Kohler K-series and Magnum models K241 (10hp), K301
(12hp), K321 (14hp), K330/K331 (12½hp), K341 (16hp) flatheads, K361
(18hp OHV) and twin cylinder cast iron block engines. 3/16" thickness. Kohler
part # 47 049 01-S. NOTE: This particular gasket prevents engine
heat from being transferred to carburetor. Therefore, the fuel
atomize
better to improve engine performance. Perfect for heavy yard/garden work
and/or competitive pulling tractors when rules require that carburetor cannot
be mounted with any kind of extension.
|
 Air Filter Housing Mounting
Gasket for Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64
carburetors used on Kohler K-series and Magnum models K241 (10hp), K301 (12hp),
K321 (14hp), K330/K331 (12½hp), K341 (16hp) flatheads, K361 (18hp OHV)
and twin cylinder cast iron block engines with the
round air filter housing
assembly. Use with three mounting screws. Approximately 1/32" thickness.
Kohler part # 275341-S.
|
 Air Filter Housing Mounting
Gasket for Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64
carburetors used on Kohler (Quiet Line) K-series and Magnum engine models
K241/M10 (10hp), K301/M12 (12hp), K321/M14 (14hp), K341/M16 flatheads, K361
(18hp OHV) with the oblong
air filter housing assembly. Use with three mounting screws.
Approximately 1/32" thickness. OEM Kohler part #'s 45 041 07-S, 52 041 12-S.
|
 Intake Manifold-to-Cylinder
Mounting Gasket for Kohler flathead twin cylinder engine models MV16, KT17,
KT17II, KT19, KT19II, KT21, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Approximately 1/32"
thickness. Kohler part # 52 041 09-S.
|
 Exhaust manifold-to-cylinder
mounting gasket for Kohler flathead twin cylinder engine models MV16, KT17,
KT17II, KT19, KT19II, KT21, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Kohler part # 52 041
14-S.
|
 Intake manifold-to-block
mounting gasket for Kohler flathead twin cylinder engine models K482, K532
and K582. OEM Kohler part # 48 052 02-S.
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 Exhaust manifold-to-block
mounting gasket for Kohler flathead twin cylinder engine models K482, K532
and K582. OEM Kohler part # 25 041 11-S.
|
 Air intake elbow
adapter to carburetor mounting gasket for Kohler flathead twin cylinder engine
models MV16, KT17, KT17II, KT19, KT19II, KT21, M18, MV18, M20, MV20 and certain
K321 and K341 engines. Approximately 1/32" thickness. OEM Kohler part # 25
041 06-S.
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|
 Carburetor Overhaul Kit for
Carter model N #16, #18, #20, #22 and #26, #28, #30 Carter or Kohler carburetors
used on Kohler K-series and early Magnum single and twin cylinder flathead
cast iron block engines. Includes float hinge pin,
Viton-tip
fuel inlet float valve and brass seat, bowl O-ring seal and fuel baffle splash
shield (goes between O-ring and float bowl). All parts made of alcohol-resistant
neoprene
rubber. OEM Kohler part # 25 757 02-S.
|
 Carburetor Overhaul Kit
with Viton-tip
fuel inlet float valve for Walbro WHL #36, #44 or WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors
that's used on Kohler Magnum models M8 (8hp), M10 (10hp), M12 (12hp), M14
(14hp), M16 (16hp), MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20 single- and twin-cylinder
flathead cast iron block engines. Includes carburetor mounting gasket.
|
 Viton-tip fuel inlet float valve and brass seat for Carter
model N #16, #18, #20, #22 and Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors.
Not available separately from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # 25 757 01-S.
|
 Viton-tip fuel inlet float valve for Walbro WHL #36, #44
or WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors. OEM Walbro part # 82-529-7.
|
 Solid Brass Fuel
Inlet Float Needle Valve for Carter model N #16, #18, #20, #22 and Carter
or Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors. These last longer with methanol because
they don't wear as much as the
Viton-tip
needles. Old [Kohler] seat can be reused. Use a small hammer to tap the needle
into the seat to create a sealing surface. Old Kohler part. No longer available
from Kohler.
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|
 Float Bowl
O-Ring Seals -
2-3/8" diameter. Fits Carter model N #16, #18, #20, #22 and Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors used on the Kohler K-series and early Magnum single cylinder 4hp-16hp, 18hp OHV single- and twin-cylinder flathead cast iron block engines. Also fits Tecumseh engines with Carter or Walbro carburetors (large bowl). Made of alcohol resistant neoprene rubber. Included in overhaul kit above. Kohler part # 200375-S.
2-7/16" diameter. Fits Walbro WHL #36, #44 or WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors that's used on Kohler Magnum models M8 (8hp), M10 (10hp), M12 (12hp), M14 (14hp), M16 (16hp), MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20 single- and twin-cylinder flathead cast iron block engines. Made of alcohol resistant neoprene rubber.
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|
 Fuel Baffle Splash
Shield. Fits all Carter model N #16, #18, #20, #22 and Kohler #26, #28, #30
carburetors used on the Kohler K-series and early Magnum single cylinder
4hp-16hp, 18hp OHV single- and twin-cylinder flathead cast iron block engines.
Goes between bowl seal and float bowl; prevents splashing fuel from entering
into throttle bore through the atmospheric vent hole. Made of alcohol resistant
neoprene
rubber. Included in overhaul kit above. Kohler part # 25 041 02-S.
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| Float Bowls -
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|
 Float Bowl
Retaining Bolts -
5/16" diameter threads x 1/2" head. Fits Walbro WHL #36 and #44 and Carter model N #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors.
3/8" diameter threads. Fits Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 and Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors.
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|
 Brass Floats for
all Carter model N #16, #18, #20, #22 and #26, #28, #30 Carter or Kohler
carburetors used on the Kohler K-series, early Magnum single cylinder 4hp-16hp,
18hp OHV single- and twin-cylinder flathead cast iron block engines. Dimensions:
15/16" i.d. x 1-15/16" o.d. x 5/8" tall. Kohler part # 25 757 03-S.
NOTE: ALL brass floats need to be adjusted when installed. They
don't come preset. To set the float level, with the carburetor turned upside
down, set the float parallel with the carburetor body. To adjust the float
level, use a small flat screwdriver to gently bend the tang that contacts
the float valve. Then make sure that the float moves up and down freely without
binding.
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|
 Plastic Floats
for Walbro WHL #36, #44 or WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors used on the Kohler's
newer Magnum M8-M16 single- and M18, M20 twin-cylinder cast iron block flathead
engines.
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|
 Float Stabilizer
Spring for Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors for pulling engines
that run well above 4,000 rpms or at wide open throttle. Lessens chance of
float bouncing due to normal single cylinder engine vibration at high rpms,
which could cause momentary fuel flooding, starvation and/or fuel spillage
out of atmospheric vent hole. Not required for general yard use or pulling
engines that operate around 4,000 rpms. OEM Kohler part # 237917-S.
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|
 Float Pins
-
Float Pins for Carter model N #16, #18, #20, #22 and Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30, Briggs & Stratton, Lawn Boy and Tecumseh carburetors. Dimensions: .090" diameter x .881" length.
Float Pins for Walbro WHL #36, #44 or WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors. Dimensions: .090" diameter x 1.125" length. Walbro part # 78-41-7.
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| High Speed Bottom Main
Fuel Adjuster -
Fits all Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors used on the Kohler K-series and early Magnum single cylinder 10hp-16hp, 18hp OHV single-cylinder cast iron block flathead engines. For pulling competition/high rpms/wide open throttle operation. NOTE: Carburetor must be converted to bottom adjuster when using this part.
|
 Float Bowl Retaining
Bolt Fiber Sealing Washers -
For 5/16" threads on Walbro WHL #36, #44 and Carter model N #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors.
For 3/8" threads on Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 and Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors.
|
| New Brass main
jet/nozzle. Fits all #26, #28, #30 Carter or Kohler carburetors used on Kohler
K-series and early Magnum models K241 (10hp), K301 (12hp), K321 (14hp), K330/K331
(12½hp), K341 (16hp) flatheads, K361 (18hp OHV) and twin cylinder cast
iron block engines. Drilled for gas. This particular part is professionally
CNC machined in the USA and is not available from Kohler. NOTE:
When rebuilding a plain, stock Carter or Kohler carburetor, there is no need
to remove the main jet/nozzle. If it will not come out, then don't worry
about it. All that has to be done to make sure the bottom hole and the side
holes on it are open. To check if the side holes are open, simply spray
carburetor cleaner or WD-40 or carburetor cleaner (in an aerosol spray can)
through the small hole just under the choke plate and observe if the spray
exits out the main jet/nozzle inside the throttle bore and bottom of carburetor.
But if modifying a carburetor to bore the venturi, then the main nozzle will
need to be removed.
Click here for
how to remove the main jet/nozzle. $15.00 each, plus
shipping & handling. |
|
| High Speed
Main Fuel Mixture Adjuster Needle Valves for Carter model N #16, #18, #20,
#22 Carburetors - NOTE: Certain high speed main adjusters are
designed for a particular carburetor. I list the part number of the carburetor
to match the type of adjuster it requires. Kohler don't give their dealers
much information on this. I did some research, and I have several used
carburetors in stock, and compared the type of adjuster to the part numbers
on the carburetor and found that some are in fact different. Therefore, if
a wrong high speed needle adjuster is used in a particular carburetor, the
engine may not idle correctly, idle too rich, or might not idle at all. Also,
if the tip of your high speed needle adjuster is slightly bent, it can be
easily straightened with pliers and reused, and will not effect engine
performance whatsoever. But if it's damaged from being overtightened, it
will need to be replaced. And if the tip is not exactly centered with the
hole in the main jet/nozzle, this will also not effect engine performance
whatsoever.
Idle Fuel Mixture Adjuster Screws -
|
|
| Throttle
Shaft Bushings - A worn throttle shaft is the #1 cause of
most engines wearing out prematurely. If a carburetor has a worn throttle
shaft, this will create a vacuum leak and the engine will idle poorly, if
at all at times. Not to mention the engine will also draw in dirty air, causing
wear on the valve faces/seats and piston rings, and engine will burn oil.
More than .010" of play is considered too much for throttle shaft wear. Plus,
at operating running speeds (3,600 rpm), the extra air will cause the engine
to run lean on fuel, which will overheat the combustion chamber and cause
the cylinder head to warp (blow a head gasket) and the piston and rings to
wear prematurely, eventually resulting in severe engine wear and excessive
oil burning. Along with regular maintenance, repair of a worn throttle shaft
is required to help an engine last a long time. The most accurate way to
check for amount of wear is with a
dial indicator.
Return To Previous Paragraph |
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|
|
 Throttle Shaft
with lever attached, screws and lock washers for Carter model N #16 and Walbro
#36 carburetors used on Kohler K-series models K90/K91 (4hp) cast iron block
flathead engines. 7/32" diameter shaft. NOTE: Apply clean motor oil on
shaft before installing for smoother throttle action and less wear to shaft,
bushing and/or carburetor body. To be used with 25 146 05-S throttle
plate below.Ê
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|
 Throttle Shaft
with lever attached, screws and lock washers for Walbro WHL #44 and Carter
model N #20, #22 carburetors used on Kohler K-series and Magnum models K141
(6¼hp), K160 (6.6hp), K161 (7hp) and K181/M8 (8hp) cast iron block flathead
engines. 7/32" diameter shaft. NOTE: Apply clean motor oil on shaft before
installing for smoother throttle action and less wear to shaft, bushing and/or
carburetor body. To be used with 25 146 05-S throttle plate
below.Ê
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|
 New-Style Throttle
Shaft with lever attached, screws and lock washers for Walbro WHG #52 and
#26 Carter or Kohler carburetors with a 1.07" throttle bore used on Kohler
K-series and Magnum models K241/M10 (10hp), K301/M12 (12hp) and K330/K331
(12½hp) cast iron block flathead engines. 9/16" hole spacing. NOTE:
Apply clean motor oil on shaft before installing for smoother throttle action
and less wear to shaft, bushing and/or carburetor body. Because of hole
spacing, best to be used with 25 146 02-S throttle plate
below.Ê
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|
 New-Style Throttle
Shaft with lever attached, screws and lock washers for Walbro WHG #60, #64
and Carter or Kohler #26, #28 or #30 carburetors with a 1.07", 1.17" or 1.2"
throttle bore used on Kohler K-series and Magnum models K241/M10 (10hp),
K301/M12 (12hp), K321/M14 (14hp), K330/K331 (12½hp), K341/M16 (16hp)
and K361 (18hp OHV). 3/4" hole spacing. NOTE: Apply clean motor oil on
shaft before installing for smoother throttle action and less wear to shaft,
bushing and/or carburetor body. Because of hole spacing, best to be used
with OEM Carter throttle plates or Kohler or 47 146 10-S throttle plate below.
Ê
|
|
 "New Style" Throttle
Shaft Conversion/Upgrade Kit for Carter #26, #28 or #30 carburetors. When
the cast aluminum clamp cracks or breaks, or if the throttle shaft is severely
worn, convert the carburetor to the new-style throttle shaft and lever.
NOTE: The solid pin will need to be ground flush with top of carburetor
body and a #29 (drill bit size) or 9/64" hole will need to be drilled through
carburetor body and 8-32 NC threads cut for installation of the idle speed
adjusting screw. And apply clean motor oil on shaft before installing for
smoother throttle action and less wear to shaft, bushing and/or carburetor
body.
|
|
  NOTE: If an OEM Kohler throttle
lever has a ball/stud pressed on it, and if the same throttle linkage is
going to be reused, the ball/stud will need to be transferred to the new
lever by grinding away the flared metal underneath and then place a small
bead of weld under the ball/stud to secure it in place on the new lever.
Or a new ball w/threaded stud that's listed in this web site can be purchased
from me. Also, the holes in the OEM Carter or Kohler [steel] throttle plates,
which have an 11/16" spacing for the #26, #28, #30 carburetors, will need
to be slightly elongated with a
Dremel or equivalent
small grinder to match the holes in the 47 144 36-S Walbro throttle shaft,
which have a 3/4" spacing. And when installing either throttle plates, with
the carburetor float area facing downward, install the plate with the stamped
numbers or letter(s) facing outward and toward the right of the throttle
bore (as shown above). And use split lock washers with throttle and choke
plate screws to prevent screws from loosening and possibly becoming lodged
in intake valve or on top of piston, which could cause severe damage. This
is why I recommend using them. Liquid threadlocker is not required with
lock washers. |
|
 Throttle Shaft
w/Lever and screws/lock washers for Walbro WHG #52 and Kohler #26 carburetors
with a 1.07" throttle bore used on Kohler twin cylinder flathead engine models
MV16, KT17, KT17II, KT19, KT19II, KT21, M18, MV18, M20, MV20. NOTE: Apply
clean motor oil on shaft before installing for smoother throttle action and
less wear to shaft, bushing and/or carburetor body. To be used with 25
146 02-S throttle plate below.Ê
|
|
Throttle Shaft
Repair Kits for Kohler (not Carter or Walbro) Carburetors. Includes mild
steel throttle shaft, bronze throttle shaft bushing, bushing installation
tool, bowl O-ring seal, fuel baffle splash shield, necessary screws and liquid
threadlocker. NOTE: Throttle lever from original shaft must be reused
on new shaft. Place small bead of weld on lever to shaft to prevent loosening
and wearing end of shaft and slotted hole in lever.
|
|
 Brass Throttle
Plates -
Throttle plate for Walbro WHL #36, #44 and Carter model N #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors with .822" diameter throttle bore.
Throttle Plate for Walbro WHG #52 and Carter or Kohler #26 carburetors with 1.07" diameter throttle bore. 9/16" hole spacing. To be used with the 47 144 35-S throttle shaft above.È
Throttle Plate for Walbro WHG #60, #64 and Carter or Kohler #30 carburetors with 1.2" diameter throttle bore. 3/4" hole spacing. To be used with the OEM #26 or #30 throttle shaft, or 47 144 36-S throttle shaft above.È
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|
Throttle and Choke
Plate Retaining Screws for Carter, Kohler, Walbro and many other makes and
models of carburetors used on small engines.
|
|
Quality High Speed
Steel Taps -
|
|
Choke shaft w/short,
angled, hand-operated or cable-controlled lever for most Carter model N #16,
#18, #20, #22 carburetors, and all Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetors used on
Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8. Overall shaft
length: 2-1/16". For Carter carburetors with following numbers stamped on
top of carburetor body: C-231738, B-231739, G-220517, 41 053 01 and 41 053
13. For Walbro carburetors with following numbers stamped on side of carburetor
body: 41 053 21, 41 053 22, 41 053 23, 41 053 28, 41 053 29, 41 053 30, 41
053 32, 41 053 34, 41 053 37, 41 853 01, 41 853 02, 41 853 03, 41 853 13
and 46 053 05. Comes with screws and split lock washers. NOTE: Apply clean
motor oil on shaft before installing for smoother choke operation and less
wear to shaft and/or carburetor body. Choke shaft w/flat lever (OEM Kohler
part # 41 090 21-S) is no longer available.
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|
Choke shaft w/long,
straight, hand-operated or cable-controlled lever for certain Carter model
N #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors, and certain Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetors
used on Kohler engine models K181 and M8. For Carter carburetors with following
numbers stamped on top of carburetor body: 41 053 18 (K181 or M8) and 41
053 20 (M8). For Walbro carburetors with following numbers stamped on side
of carburetor body: 41 053 24, 41 053 26, 41 053 27, 41 053 31, 41 053 36
and 41 853 04. Comes with screws and split lock washers. NOTE: Apply clean
motor oil on shaft before installing for smoother choke operation and less
wear to shaft and/or carburetor body.
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|
Choke shaft w/short,
angled, hand-operated or cable-controlled lever for Carter or Kohler #26,
#28, #30 and Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors with the
round air filter housing
assembly. Comes with screws and split lock washers. NOTE: Apply clean
motor oil on shaft before installing for smoother choke operation and less
wear to shaft and/or carburetor body.
|
|
Choke shaft w/long,
straight, hand-operated or cable-controlled lever for Kohler #26, #30 and
Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors with the
oblong air filter housing
assembly (Quiet Line). Comes with screws and split lock washers. NOTE:
Apply clean motor oil on shaft before installing for smoother choke operation
and less wear to shaft and/or carburetor body.
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|
New Choke Plates. These are made by Walbro, but will also
fit the Carter and Kohler carburetors with no modifications. The ones for
Carter and Kohler carburetors are no longer available. IMPORTANT: If a wrong
choke plate is used or mismatched with any particular size engine, the engine
may get flooded too easily, resulting in either hard starting or a fouled
spark plug. Or the engine may not receive enough fuel, resulting in hard
starting. (None of these will happen with my remote fuel primer.)
 For Kohler engine models K90/K91
(4hp), K141 (6¼hp), K160 (6.6hp), K161 (7hp) and K181/M8 (8hp) with
Walbro WHL #36, #44 or Carter model N #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors.
 Designed for Kohler engine models
K241/M10 (10hp) or K301/M12 (12hp) with Walbro WHG #52 or Carter/Kohler #26
carburetors. Walbro part # 62-129; available from Kohler only.
 Designed for Kohler engine models
K321/M14 (14hp) with Walbro WHG #60, #64 or Carter/Kohler #28 or #30 carburetors.
 Designed for Kohler engine models
K341/M16 (16hp) with Walbro WHG #60, #64 or Carter/Kohler #30 carburetors.
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|
| Choke Detent Balls
- NOTE: The detent ball and spring is for hand-operation of the
choke only, such as for a generator/welder engine. If choke is cable-operated,
such as in a tractor, then the ball and spring isn't needed.
1/8" diameter for all Carter or Kohler #16, #18, #20, #22, #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetors.
5/32" diameter for Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors.
|
|
| Choke Detent Springs - NOTE: The detent ball and
spring is for hand-operation of the choke only, such as for a generator/welder
engine. If choke is cable-operated, such as in a tractor, then the ball and
spring isn't needed.
|
|
 Air Filter Housing Base Mounting
Screws for Carter model N #16, #18, #20, #22 and #44 Walbro WHL carburetors.
Size: 8-32 NF (5/32" diameter x 3/8" thread length, fine thread). Kohler
part # 25 086 99-S.
 3/8" diameter aluminum welch
(expansion) plug. Replaces welch plug in most Carter, Kohler and Walbro
carburetors. No Kohler part number available. OEM Walbro part # 88-180.
.50¢ each, plus shipping & handling. |
 Professionally machine YOUR
carburetor body and install bronze sleeve bushings for worn choke shaft holes
and reinstall original choke shaft (if not excessively worn). $50.00
for parts and labor, plus return shipping & handling.
|
 Open-U-Type Throttle/Choke
Cable Conduit Clamp. Use to secure 3/16" or 7/32" diameter cable conduit
to throttle or choke bracket. Zinc-plated steel.
|
 1/4" Diameter
Throttle Cable/Wire Swivel Kit. For securing inner throttle cable or wire
to governor lever or throttle lever on carburetor. Kohler part # 48 755 10-S.
|
 OEM Kohler Steel Throttle
Cable Clip. Fastens to extended bracket on flywheel shroud. OEM Kohler part
# 235603-S.
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|
 Loop-Type Throttle/Choke
Cable Conduit/Wire Clamp. Use to secure 3/16" or 7/32" diameter cable conduit
to throttle or choke bracket or bundle of wires along frame for safe routing.
16 gauge, zinc-plated steel.
|
 Round Body Throttle Wire
Stop w/Screw. Used for securing inner throttle cable or wire on end of throttle
control or lever. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
 Governor Spring for Kohler
Magnum model M8 (8hp). OEM Kohler part # 41 089 12-S.
|
 Governor Spring for Kohler
K-series models K141, K160, K161 and K181. OEM Kohler part # 232617-S.
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 Dampening Spring.
To be used on virtually all CH (Command), K-series and Magnum single- and
twin-cylinder cast iron and aluminum block engines. Goes between governor
lever and throttle lever to remove free play in linkage and reduce erratic
engine behavior for a smoother running engine. 93 coils. OEM Kohler part
# 230117-S.
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|
 Short Governor
Springs. Fits Kohler models K241/M10 (10hp), K301/M12 (12hp), K321/M14 (14hp),
K330/K331 (12½hp), K341/M16 flatheads, K361 (18hp OHV) cast iron block
engines. And/or in Cub Cadet models: 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105,
106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 149, 169, 1050,
1204, 1210 and 1211.
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|
 Long Governor
Springs. Fits Kohler models K241 (10hp), K301 (12hp), K321 (14hp), K341 (16hp)
cast iron block engines in "Quiet Line" Cub Cadet models: 680, 1000, 1200,
1210, 1250, 1282, 1450 and 1650. "Quiet Line" John Deere engines, too.
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Governor Cross
Shafts for Kohler engine models K241/M10 (10hp), K301/M12 (12hp), K321/M14
(14hp), K341/M16 (16hp) and K361 (18hp OHV). OEM Kohler part # A-235256-S.
|
|
 Throttle Link
for Kohler flathead cast iron block K-series engine model K90/K91 (4hp).
OEM Kohler part # 220380-S.
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 Throttle Link
for Kohler flathead cast iron block K-series engine models K141 (6¼hp),
K160 (6.6hp), K161 (7hp) and K181 (8hp) with .086" (#44 drill bit size) hole
in governor lever and throttle lever. OEM Kohler part # 230078-S.
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 Throttle Link
and Nylon Bushing for Kohler flathead cast iron block Magnum model M8 (8hp)
with 3/16" hole in governor lever and throttle lever. OEM Kohler part # 25
079 01-S.
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|
 Throttle Link
for Kohler KT-series KT17, KT19 and KT21 flathead twin cylinder engines with
.086" (#44 drill bit size) hole in governor lever and throttle lever. OEM
Kohler part # 82 755 07-S.
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|
 Throttle Linkage
Kit for Kohler Magnum M18 and M20 flathead twin cylinder engines with 3/16"
hole in governor lever and throttle lever.
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 New Style Throttle
Linkage Kit. Fits Kohler K-series and Magnum 10hp-16hp flatheads and 18hp
OHV single cylinder cast iron block engines with 3/16" hole in governor lever
and throttle lever.
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All Metal, Early
Style Throttle Linkage Assembly with Integrated Ball w/Threaded Stud. Fits
Kohler 10hp-16hp flatheads and 18hp OHV single cylinder cast iron block engines
with 3/16" hole in governor lever and without ball on throttle lever. OEM
Kohler part #'s 235277-S (rod) and 237130-S (ball joint w/integrated ball).
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 All Metal, Early
Style Linkage Assembly with Snap-On Throttle Ball Joint Body. Fits Kohler
10hp-16hp flatheads and 18hp OHV single cylinder cast iron block engines
with 3/16" hole in governor lever and ball on throttle lever. OEM Kohler
part #'s 235277-S (rod) and 45 208 03-S (snap-on ball joint body).
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|
 Throttle Rods
for Early Style Throttle Linkage. Fits Kohler K-series 10hp-16hp flatheads
and 18hp OHV single cylinder cast iron block engines with 3/16" hole in governor
lever. 3/16" diameter rod x 10-32 NF threads. OEM Kohler part # 235277-S.
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|
 New 3/16" Throttle
Ball Joint w/Integrated Ball/Threaded Stud for Kohler early style throttle
linkage. Can also be used on mini-rods, hot rods, race cars, etc. 10-32 NF
male and female threads. Kohler part # 237130-S.
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 Snap-On Ball Joint
Body with Throttle Ball/Threaded Stud for Kohler early style throttle linkage.
Can also be used on mini-rods, hot rods, race cars, etc. 10-32 NF male and
female threads. Kohler part #'s 45 208 03-S (snap-on ball joint body) and
48 194 01-S (throttle ball w/threaded stud).
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|
 Early Style Throttle
Snap-On Ball Joint Body. Fits Kohler 10hp-16hp flatheads and 18hp OHV single
cylinder cast iron block engines with ball on throttle lever. Can also be
used on mini-rods, hot rods, race cars, etc. 10-32 NF female threads and
accepts 1/4" diameter ball. OEM Kohler part # 45 208 03-S.
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 Throttle Ball
w/Threaded Stud for Snap-On Ball Joint Body above.
È 1/4" diameter ball x 10-32 NF threads.
Fits #26, #28, #30 Carter, Kohler and #52, #60, #64 Walbro carburetors without
ball on throttle lever. Can also be used on mini-rods, hot rods, race cars,
etc. Replaces Kohler part # 48 194 01-S. (Discontinued from Kohler.)
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|
 E-Clip (Retainer)
for Early Style 3/16" Throttle Linkage. Kohler part # 235278-S.
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|
 Remote Fuel
Primer Kit
The primer bulb system squirts gas into the carburetor, causing a flooding condition so a cold engine will start easier. It replaces the choke plate. For garden pulling tractors, ordinary garden tractors, lawn and garden equipment or virtually any type of small engine equipment. Works with pump gas or alcohol fuels. Kit includes primer bulb assembly w/mounting nut, 3' of 1/8" i.d. clear vinyl hose and 1/8" o.d. x 1" long brass tube (to mount on side of carburetor for the atmospheric vent hole). An original concept by Brian Miller. $15.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
Fuel Primer Bulb Assembly Only. Comes with mounting nut. $7.00 each,
plus shipping. |
|
 Plastic In-Line
Fuel Shut-Off Valve. Fits 1/4" i.d. fuel line. No filter. Required by certain
pulling associations/clubs for safety. $6.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. Part # 23-5841 |
 All Metal In-Line Fuel Shut-Off
Valve. Fits 1/4" i.d. fuel line. No filter. Required by certain pulling
associations/clubs for safety. $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Part # 24-1166 |
 Tank-Mounted 90° Angle
Fuel Shut-Off Valve with fine mesh screen filter. Has 1/8" NPT mounting threads
and fits 1/4" i.d. fuel hose. Threads into gas tank. Replacement for Gravely,
Kohler, Lawn-Boy, Snapper, Tecumseh, etc. Has alcohol-resistant
neoprene
rubber O-ring seal. $6.50 each, plus shipping & handling. Part
# 23-1347
 Alcohol-resistant
neoprene
rubber O-ring for shut-off valve above. Replace dry-rotted O-ring which cause
leaking fuel. Dimensions: 3/16" i.d. x 5/16" o.d. .25¢ each,
plus shipping & handling. |
 Plastic In-Line Fuel Filter.
Fits 1/4" i.d. fuel line. 1-3/8" diameter x 1-3/4" long. 75
micron.
For engines with gravity feed or fuel pump. Made in USA. Kohler part # 25
755 22-S.
|
 Fuel Line Upgrade/Conversion
Kit
Do away with the old-fashioned sediment fuel filter and metal fuel line. This upgrade/conversion kit includes 1/4" i.d. x 12" long reinforced black fuel line, clear in-line filter, one straight 1/4" nipple x 1/8" NPT threads fitting (threads into gas tank) and one 90° angle 1/4" nipple x 1/8" NPT threads fitting (threads into carburetor) and four spring-type fuel line clamps. The fuel line is routed under carburetor. This kit is for Kohler engines with the gas tank mounted above the engine. An original concept by Brian Miller. $10.00 each kit. |
 Black
neoprene
rubber reinforced fuel hose. For 100% gas, E-85 and methanol fuels. Available
in 1/4" i.d. and 5/16" i.d. .50¢ per foot, plus shipping.
|
 Brass straight 1/4" nipple
x 1/8" NPT threads fitting. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
Brass  90° angle 1/4"
nipple x 1/8" NPT threads fitting. $3.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. |
 Spring-type fuel line clamp
for 1/2" o.d. x 1/4" i.d. black neoprene rubber reinforced fuel hose.
.50¢ each, plus shipping & handling. |
 Worn gear type fuel line clamp
for small engine fuel hose. $1.50 each, plus shipping & handling. |
 Fuel Tank Bushing
(Grommet) for Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" models and Kohler Magnum Engines. Made
of neoprene
rubber. Fastens into 33/64" hole on bottom of gas tank. Replaces: AMF 42690;
Ariens 07509300, 07511400; Bolens 1738433; Briggs Power Products 78299GS,
80269GS; Exmark 1-513645; Ferris 22151; Kohler 25 313 01-S; Lawn-Boy 104047,
708331, 46-6560; MTD 735-0149, 1738433, 935-0149, 1903198, 1902479, GW-1738433,
GW-B1738433, 581615; Murray 42690; Noma 44847; Scag 48309; Simplicity 1654930;
Snapper 12337, 74158, 7012337, 7074158; Tecumseh 33679; Toro 46-6560, 1-513645,
E513645; Wheel Horse/Toro 104047; 104047P.
|
|
 Fuel Shut-Off Valve without
filter screen for Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" models and Kohler Magnum Engines.
1/2" fitting fastens in neoprene rubber bushing in bottom of gas tank. 1/4"
fuel hose fitting. Requires in-line fuel filter. Replaces Cub Cadet part
# IH-109042-C2.
|
 Fuel Shut-Off Valve with
filter screen for Kohler Magnum Engines and Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" models.
1/2" fitting fastens in neoprene rubber bushing in bottom of gas tank. 1/4"
fuel hose fitting. Kohler part # 25 462 01-S.
|
 Fuel
Shut-Off/Filter/Sediment Bowl Assembly. Replacement for many older lawn and
garden engines. Threads into bottom of gas tank. Dimensions: Overall height:
3"; Maximum width (not including shut-off valve): 1-3/4"; Thread fittings:
inlet (top) and outlet (side) are both 1/8" NPT. Complete assembly no longer
available from Kohler. Use fuel line upgrade/conversion kit (above) instead
if you wish. Replaces: Kohler A-210101 (discontinued); Briggs & Stratton
293964, 295913, 295977, 296005, 393169, 690612; Clinton 293-32-500, 293-32-5;
Gravely 013013; John Deere PT4337; Tecumseh 24449, 24459, 32164, 32439, 32984,
32984A, 34279, 34279A, 34279B; Wisconsin LP43.
|
|
 Replacement glass
bowl for fuel shut-off/filter/sediment bowl assembly above. Dimensions: 1-1/2"
maximum width x 1-1/8" height. Replaces: Briggs & Stratton # 298683;
John Deere # PT4271.
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|
 Fine Mesh Screen
Filter for Sediment Bowl Assembly above.
|
|
 Sediment bowl
gasket (seal) for glass bowl on fuel shut-off/filter/sediment bowl assembly
above. Made of alcohol resistant
neoprene
rubber.
|
|
 Fuel Shut-Off
Valve for Filter/Sediment Bowl Assembly above. Includes neoprene rubber O-ring.
|
|
O-ring for shut-off
valve shaft in fuel shut-off/filter/sediment bowl assembly above. Replace
cracked/dry-rotted O-ring which can cause leaking fuel. Made of alcohol resistant
neoprene
rubber. Dimensions: 1/8" i.d. x 1/4" o.d.
|
|
Information About the Carburetor Extension, Spacer, Intake Tube, Stand-Off, (or whatever they may be called) -
Spacing the carburetor
away from the engine block allows the fuel to atomize better (break down
into smaller particles) so the engine will produce more power and torque
at higher rpms. The further the carburetor is spaced, the better the fuel
will atomize.
When choosing the length of an intake tube, it seems that a 3" length works best for gas, and 5" length works best for E85 or methanol. Because gas runs more lean than E85 or methanol, it requires less space or distance to fully atomize, and being E85 and methanol fuels run richer, they need more space or distance to fully atomize before they enter the combustion chamber.
For pulling competition, if no [long] intake tube is to be used with the carburetor, a heat isolator gasket will work great. It isolates the carburetor from the engine heat so the fuel will atomize better (break down into smaller particles) before it enters the combustion chamber, which will help the engine produce more power.
Also for pulling competition, with a carburetor extension in use, mounting gaskets are not necessary. Just resurface the ends of the extension (if needed) and carburetor mounting flange so it's perfectly flat (I use the side of the cutting wheel on my 14" chop saw. Works great! Be sure to use eye protection!), and then apply a thin bead of Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant with no gasket. By doing this, there is NO WAY the flange can warp or possibly break! By the way - I've always preferred to use Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant for two reasons: it bonds parts together, forming a leak-proof seal; and being it's clear, it makes for a clean and professional-looking repair job. It can't be seen between the parts.
Never Over-Tighten the Mounting Bolts or Use Multiple Gaskets When Fastening the Carburetor to an Engine!
When mounting the carburetor
to an engine, the use of two or more gaskets and then torquing the mounting
bolts to specs, or just over-tightening the mounting bolts will severely
warp the mounting flange on a carburetor, causing it to bend, which will
create a vacuum leak, or worse yet, being cast aluminum don't bend or flex
too easily, the flange could break. See photo to the right.
è
So remember, first resurface the mounting flange on a flat sanding disc or flat belt sander until it's perfectly flat, and for general yard use, install just one thin (.030" thickness) gasket or one (3/16" thickness) heat isolator gasket. And use the "two-bolt torque" procedure. First lightly tighten the first bolt, then lightly tighten the second bolt. And tighten the first bolt securely, and then tighten the second bolt securely.
If a Carter or Kohler carburetor body is broken or damaged beyond repair, it's not considered 100% junk. (At least to me, it's not.) There are valuable parts on it that can be used on another carburetor body that's in good condition, if some of the parts are in fact reusable. Such as: throttle and choke shafts and plates, choke detent ball and spring, idle speed adjusting screw and spring, idle fuel mixture screw and spring, high speed main fuel needle adjuster and spring, main jet/nozzle, fuel inlet valve and seat, float, float pin, float bowl, neoprene rubber O-ring, fuel baffle splash shield, bowl retaining screw and fuel line fitting. Some of these parts are no longer available new.
Use a Remote Fuel Primer Bulb System to Start a Cold Engine - Top of page
If the Carter or Kohler carburetor on a lawn or garden machine, or pulling
tractor don't have a choke plate assembly installed, but does have an air
filter with perhaps a velocity stack, and if the engine have to be "hand
choked" to start it, then you probably already know how hard it is to get
your hand sealed over the entire velocity stack or end of the carburetor,
and also have a wet hand from the fuel afterwards. And having a small hose
connected to the atmospheric vent hole in the carburetor is a lot safer than
having raw fuel spilling out of the drilled hole on the side of the carburetor
when pulling! Well, an inexpensive
and safe way to get extra fuel into the throttle bore to start a cold engine
is to use a remote fuel primer bulb system. This system can also be adapted
for use on ordinary garden tractors, lawn and garden equipment or virtually
any type of small engine equipment with virtually any type of carburetor.
This system is similar to the same setup that many small engine manufacturers
use on their engines nowadays. Works with pump gas or alcohol fuels. This
an original concept by Brian Miller.
How it works: With the original atmospheric vent hole(s) in the carburetor plugged, a short brass tube inserted in a drilled hole on the side of the carburetor body, and with a small fuel line connecting the carburetor to the primer bulb assembly, several quick pushes of the bulb with your finger over the hole in the primer bulb (to seal in air) creates air pressure within the float bowl, which forces fuel up through the main jet/nozzle, lightly flooding the throttle bore. Thus, helping a cold engine without a choke plate start much easier.
How to Install and Use the Remote Fuel Primer Bulb System:
Remove carburetor from engine
and plug the atmospheric vent hole(s). For the main hole that's located at
the 2:00 position next to the choke plate, cut some short threads for a 1/4"
Allen set screw and install the screw. And if there's a small hole behind
the choke plate, cut 3-48 threads in it and install a 3-48 screw with
high strength liquid threadlocker. See photo to the
right. The hole in the primer bulb will become the new atmospheric vent
hole for the carburetor.
FYI - Most engines will not start when gas is introduced directly onto the combustion chamber through the spark plug hole. This only results in a flooding condition and the engine may not start. Gas (or starting fluid) needs to be mixed with air through the carburetor so it can atomize to burn thoroughly so the engine will be able to start.
When removing the choke plate and shaft, there's
a tiny (1/8") steel ball and spring located at the 9:00 position when facing
the choke end with the float area toward you. This is the detent to retain
the choke plate in the open position when a cable isn't attached to the choke
lever. When the choke shaft is removed, hold one finger over the screw hole
and choke shaft hole to prevent the ball and spring from flying out and possibly
getting lost.
Advertisement:
| If you need a remote
fuel primer kit, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501
W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-875-4033. Please
call Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone, except holidays. If no
answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient
because I stutter.) Fax:
1-573-449-7347. E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. You can
also contact us through Yahoo! Messenger:
Remote Fuel Primer Kit
The primer bulb system squirts gas into the carburetor, causing a flooding
condition so a cold engine will start easier. It replaces the choke plate.
For garden pulling tractors, ordinary garden tractors, lawn and garden equipment
or virtually any type of small engine equipment. Works with pump gas or alcohol
fuels. Kit includes primer bulb assembly w/mounting nut, 3' of 1/8" i.d.
clear vinyl hose and 1/8" o.d. x 1" long brass tube (to mount on side of
carburetor for the atmospheric vent hole). An original concept by Brian Miller.
$15.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
Go here for more parts: Carburetor, Fuel System Parts & Machine Shop Services |
Fabricate a Foolproof Type of Foot-Operated Throttle Control Setup on a Pulling Tractor - Top of page
For a fancy and noticeable gas pedal, install a chrome-plated,
die-cast aluminum "barefoot" pedal. These were popular in the late '60s to
early '70s as a nostalgic item mainly on street rod and hot rod vehicles.
They're available on
eBay. Use a medium size household door hinge to mount
the pedal to the foot rest on the tractor.
To fabricate the throttle linkage
and levers, run a 3/16" diameter steel rod from the pedal, up to a bellcrank
(lever), then fasten the lever to a 5/16" diameter steel rod. Run the rod
through the steering column support and then fabricate another bellcrank
(lever) on the other end of the 5/16" rod, and connect that to another 3/16"
diameter steel rod which goes forward and attaches to the throttle lever
on the carburetor.
I made our own bellcranks (or levers) from 1/2" x 1/8" x about 2" long mild steel. I simply drilled a hole in each end (3/16" and 5/16") and clamped one end of the lever with a locknut on the 5/16" rod so I can loosen the nuts to make adjustments as necessary, and the other hole in the lever is for the 3/16" rod. Install a lightweight return spring from the pedal to the tractor frame. And look your tractor over to determine where the holes should be drilled through the steering column support. Just don't drill the holes where the steering column will be in the way.
If properly installed and adjusted, I believe that this type of throttle control is absolutely the best design. It will never fail on virtually any tractor. It also works much better and smoother than the cable design. There's no parts to wear and there's no sliding cable that can bind and eventually break, causing one to lose a good pull. And being virtually all tractors are different in design, I offer no kits for these. You'll have to fabricate your own. And the reason foot pedals are more popular than hand throttles is because both hands are needed on the steering wheel to control the tractor as it's going down the track.
Oh, and if you've ever wondered what a "dead man's throttle" is, it's a hand or foot operated spring-loaded throttle control that automatically returns the throttle plate to the idle position when the pressure is released. It works the same as the gas pedal in a car. Top of page
Repairing Various Older Briggs & Stratton Carburetors Top of page
Repairing the carburetor on an older 3hp, 3.5hp or 4hp B&S engine with either a Vacu-Jet or Pulsa-Jet diaphragm carburetor -
First of all, the Vacu-Jet carburetor operates off of engine vacuum to delivery fuel to the engine. (The very first Vacu-Jet carburetors have a manual choke, and no diaphragm. The second design Vacu-Jet carburetor uses a diaphragm, and have a manual choke. The third design Vacu-Jet uses a diaphragm and has an automatic choke.) And the Pulsa-Jet has a built-in fuel pump to delivery fuel to the engine. Both of the [newest design] Vacu-Jet and Pulsa-Jet carburetors have an automatic choke. If either of these carburetors run rich on fuel, and the choke will not open after starting, what has happened is where the carburetor is fastened to the gas tank, these two "mating surfaces" has become warped. This is caused by over-tightening of the air filter housing screw. To fix this...
Repairing the Pulsa-Jet Carburetor on a 5hp Briggs & Stratton Flathead Engine -
If a 5hp B&S engine has excellent spark and adequate compression, but doesn't run right, then the problem is obviously in the carburetor. To fix the problem...
And if the choke flap will not open when starting a 3hp and 3.5hp Briggs & Stratton engine having either an older Vacu-Jet or Pulsa-Jet Automatic Choke carburetor... (The ones without a primer bulb.), to fix this problem, the carburetor and gas tank are warped and needs to be resurfaced. To do so....
How to clean the main jet in a 16hp/18hp flathead opposed twin cylinder Briggs & Stratton engine -
The main jet is located in the float bowl of the carburetor. To access and clean it...
Your engine should rev up without using the choke afterwards! This may have to be done every few years because these type of carburetors are notorious for having tiny particles of dirt that passes through the fuel filter settle at the bottom of the float bowl. The main jet is real close to the bottom of the float bowl too, which allows dirt to clog it over time.
How To Clean the Inside of A Heavily Rusted or Dirty Gas Tank -
To clean an internally rusty or dirty gas tank, put some small driveway gravel in the tank with water, seal the fuel outlet fitting and gas cap vent holes (make sure the gas cap has a good seal), then literally and vigorously shake the heck out of it! Or for less tiresome labor, put the gravel and water in the tank, seal it up, securely tie a blanket around it and then put it in a clothes dryer. Set the dryer on the cold or "No Heat" setting, and let it agitate for a couple of hours. When the water is drained and majority of the gravel removed, use a garden water hose to thoroughly clean out inside the tank. It should look new inside. If there's still some rust or dirt in it, repeat the process until all the rust or dirt is broken loose.
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© 1996-Present. Designed and maintained by Brian Miller.
1/8" diameter x 5/16" long for
Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetors. NOTE: Being the 1/8" x 1/2" detent spring
for the Carter and Kohler #16, #18, #20, #22, #26, #28, #30 carburetors have
been discontinued by Kohler, the 1/8" diameter x 5/16" long spring can be
used in these carburetors with an 1/8" diameter x 3/16" long solid spacer
(1/8" x 3/16" long Allen set screw) placed under spring.
5/32" diameter x 1/2" long for
Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors. NOTE: The 1/8" choke detent spring
for the Carter and Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors are no longer available
from Kohler. It's replaced with the 5/32" diameter spring, which should be
used with the 5/32" ball. The detent hole in the carburetor will need to
be enlarged (drilled) to 5/32" to accommodate the spring and ball.
Rebuilt Kohler #26 carburetor
for KT17, KT17II, KT19, KT19II, M18:
New Walbro carburetors with
adjustable high speed main jet. Comes with throttle linkage, mounting and
air filter housing gaskets. Available for the following engines:
High Speed Bottom Main Fuel Adjuster.
$14.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
Float bowls for Carter model
N #16, #18, #20, #22 and #26, #28, #30 Carter or Kohler carburetors used
on Kohler K-series and early Magnum models K241/M10 (10hp), K301/M12 (12hp),
K321/M14 (14hp), K330/K331 (12½hp), K341/M16 (16hp), K361 (18hp OHV)
and twin cylinder cast iron block flathead engines. Either bowl also fits
Briggs & Stratton 7hp-12hp vertical shaft engine carburetors. Steel bowl:
Briggs & Stratton part # 221995. Aluminum bowl: Kohler part # 235448-S.
NOTE: The B&S zinc-plated steel float bowl is better quality
than Kohler's aluminum float bowl because it will not rust, dent or corrode.
All dimensions matches perfectly (2-5/16" o.d. x 1-1/4" height w/3/8" bottom
hole). And the float bowl for the #26, #28, #30 Carter or Kohler carburetors
will also fit the Carter model N #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors. The smaller
5/16" retaining bolt and washer will seal well enough around the 3/8" hole
so it won't leak fuel.
Float bowls for Walbro WHL
#36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors used on newer Kohler Magnum M8-M16
cast iron block single-cylinders and MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20 twin-cylinder
flathead cast iron cylinders engines. 2½" outside diameter. Each made
of dent-proof and corrosion-resistant steel.
For Carter model N #16 and #20
carburetors used on Kohler single cylinder cast iron block flathead engine
models K90/K91 (4hp), K141 (6¼hp), K160 (6.6hp) and K161 (7hp). Designed
specifically for Carter carburetors with following numbers stamped on top
of carburetor body: A-230798, A-231966, B-231231, B-231450, B-231469, C-231738,
E-231480, E-231488, E-231489, F-230350, F-230502, G-220517, G-230500, 231287,
24588, 41 053 06, 41 053 13, 41 053 14. Important - Please present numbers
on carburetor when ordering. OEM Kohler part # 200410-S.
For Carter model N #22 carburetor
used on Kohler single cylinder cast iron block flathead engine models K181/M8
(8hp). Designed specifically for Carter carburetors with following numbers
stamped on top of carburetor body: A-231741, A-234641, C-231738, B-231739,
41 053 01, 41 053 04, 41 053 05, 41 053 06, 41 053 18, 41 053 20. Important
- Please present numbers on carburetor when ordering. OEM Kohler part # 232635-S.
For all Carter or Kohler #26,
1.07" throttle bore carburetors and two particular Kohler #30 1.2" carburetors
used on Kohler K-series and early Magnum flathead engine models K241/M10
(10hp), K301/M12 (12hp), K330/K331 (12½hp), K321/M14 (14hp), K532 (20hp)
and K582 (23hp). Has two holes midway and one lower hole. Designed specifically
for Kohler carburetors with following numbers stamped on mounting flange:
47 053 07, 47 053 08, 47 053 12, 47 053 13, 47 053 14, 47 053 24, 47 053
29, 47 053 35, 47 053 40, 47 053 62, 47 053 80, 48 053 06 (K582). Important
- Please present numbers on carburetor when ordering. Refer to
For the Kohler #26, 1.07" throttle
bore carburetor used on Kohler twin cylinder engine models KT17, KT17II,
KT19, KT19II, M18 and M20. Has two holes midway and two lower holes. Designed
specifically for Kohler carburetors with following numbers stamped on mounting
flange: 52 053 01, 52 053 02, 52 053 09, 52 053 10, 52 053 11, 52 053 16,
52 053 18 and 52 053 28. Important - Please present numbers on carburetor
when ordering. Refer to
For Carter model N #16, #18,
#20, #22 carburetors used on Kohler engine models K90/K91 (4hp), K141
(6¼hp), K160 (6.6hp), K161 (7hp) K181 (8hp). Also for #28, #30 Carter
or Kohler carburetors with a 1.17" or 1.2" throttle bore used on Kohler models
K321 (14hp), K341 (16hp), K361 (18hp OHV) single cylinder engines. Short
step tip. Dimensions: .865" overall length x .200" tip length x 7-40 threads.
OEM Kohler part #'s 200438-S, 275231-S. $6.70 each, plus shipping
& handling.
For #26 Carter or Kohler carburetors
with 1.07" throttle bore used on Kohler K-series models K241 (10hp), K301
(12hp) and K330/K331 (12½hp). Long step tip. Dimensions: .925" overall
length x .260" tip length x 7-40 threads. OEM Kohler part # 235006-S.
$4.60 each, plus shipping & handling.
For Kohler carburetors used
on Kohler engine models KT17, KT17II, KT19, KT19II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18,
M20, MV20, K482, K532 and K582. Long tapered tip (not stepped). Dimensions:
1.026" overall length x .404" tip length x 7-40 threads. OEM Kohler part
# 277210-S. $6.70 each, plus shipping & handling.
For Walbro carburetors used
on Kohler Magnum single cylinder models M8-M16 and twin cylinder models MV16,
M18, MV18, M20, MV20.
Carburetor Compression Pressure
Springs -
High Speed Main Fuel Mixture
Adjuster Needle Valve. Fits all Walbro WHL #36, #44 or WHG #52, #60, #64
carburetors w/adjustable high speed jet originally used on flathead cast
iron block Kohler Magnum single cylinder engine models M8-M16 and twin cylinder
models MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20.
Bronze Throttle Shaft Bushing for the Carter
model N #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetor used on the Kohler K90/K91 (4hp), K141
(6¼hp), K160 (6.6hp), K161 (7hp) and K181/M8 (8hp) flathead cast iron
block engines. Professionally made in the USA of precision CNC machined bearing
bronze. Dimensions: .407" o.d. x .213" i.d. x 1/8" height. NOTE: Some
early Carter model N carburetors have a smaller diameter throttle shaft,
which is .213" (#3 [drill bit]). This bushing is made for the smaller shaft.
If a carburetor has the bigger 7/32" (.219") shaft, once installed, the bushing
will need to be carefully drilled or reamed larger to 7/32". Also, some newer
Carter model N carburetors do not have the counterbore to accept a bushing.
If there's no counterbore, then either a new throttle shaft (see
belowÊ) will need to be installed,
or if the shaft hole is severely worn, it will need to be slightly enlarged
to match a fabricated oversized throttle shaft. I offer this service, too.
Then apply clean motor oil on throttle shaft before installing for smoother
throttle action and less wear to shaft, bushing or carburetor body.
$6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Bronze
Sleeve Throttle Shaft Bushing for the newer Walbro WHG #52, #60,
#64 carburetors that have no counterbore for the short throttle shaft bushing.
Dimensions: 1/4" i.d. x .313" o.d. x 3/4" long. NOTE: The upper throttle
shaft hole must be precision-bored to exactly .3125" (5/16") in perfect alignment
with the lower hole for installation of this bushing. Apply clean motor oil
on throttle shaft before installing for smoother throttle action and less
wear to shaft and bushing. If the throttle or choke shaft(s) holes
are worn in a K482, K532 or K582 carburetor, the carburetor body can be machined
for installation of bronze bushings (for choke shaft) or a fabricated/oversize
throttle shaft. I've performed many of these shaft repairs on carburetors
with success. If you're interested, I can repair yours as well. For dimension
measurements, I will need the complete carburetor with the throttle shaft
and throttle plate. The repair price per shaft is $65.00 for parts
and labor, plus return shipping & handling. 
Air Filter Housing Base Mounting
Screws for Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64
carburetors. Size: 10-32 NF (3/16" diameter x 3/8" thread length, fine thread).
Kohler part # X-167-2-S.
Clear