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Please visit these other Brian Miller's websites: |
![10-18hp Kohler (or Carter [model N]) Carburetor](images/carb.jpg)
Information
about the Carter, Kohler and Walbro Carburetors, Various Fuels and Fuel Systems
There's a cheater in every sport, and tractor pulling is no
different. To make competition pulling a fun and fair sport for the entire
family, be protective of your equipment! While at the pulls, keep an eye
on your carburetor and fuel shut-off valve! When a competitive or winning
pulling tractor is left alone, it's been known that certain disgruntled pullers
(sore losers 
) belonging
to various associations/clubs, virtually anywhere and everywhere, will turn
the high speed main fuel adjuster one way or the other, or close the fuel
shut-off valve to keep the engine from running at it's full potential, or
from running at all. This is one of the easiest, dishonest and sneaky ways
to retard or disable and sabotage a competitor's tractor. All a cheater needs
is an opportunity in an attempt to gain an advantage on the track. This is
also the fastest way for a pulling association or club to gain a bad reputation
and lose honest pullers. (Bad news travels fast.) This type of dishonest
behavior doesn't happen often, but you need to be prepared if or when it
does happen. To be prepared for this unforeseeable event, it'll be a good
idea to cover the entire carburetor with a
drawstring bag, or better yet, cover the entire tractor
with a canvas or heavy blanket.
Keep an eye on your
killswitch plug, too! Always try to stay one step ahead of a cheater.
Because there's cheaters in every sport, and nobody likes a cheater, not
even cheaters themselves! 
But then again,
if the winning tractor is suspected of cheating on the track (illegal engine,
etc.), there's always the protest rule. But only if it's enforced by an honest
pulling association.
Also, to "cap off" or plug
the header pipe to prevent rain water from entering into it and/or to keep
a disgruntled puller from sabotaging a competitive pulling tractor by jamming
a rock down in the pipe (this have been known to happen), use an adjustable
rubber expansion plug, like the one pictured to the right. Most popular ones
are:
Dorman
AutoGrade 02601 (1-1/4"),
Dorman
AutoGrade 02602 (1-3/8"), or
Dorman
AutoGrade 02603 (1-1/2"). These require more effort to remove than the
popular slip-on vinyl sleeve cover, because cheaters always prefer a quick
and easy way to sabotage a competitor's tractor. Please keep this sport fair
and honest, folks.
Use a Remote Fuel Primer Bulb System to Start a Cold
Engine - An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller,
because nobody else advertise the use of this system on a garden tractor.
Top of page
If a Carter and Kohler carburetor (or virtually any type of float carburetor) that's used on a lawn or garden machine, or pulling tractor don't have a choke plate assembly installed, but does have an air filter assembly, or an air filter with a velocity stack, and if the engine have to be "hand choked" to start it, then you probably already know how hard it is to get your hand sealed over the entire velocity stack or end of the carburetor, and also have a wet hand from the raw fuel afterwards. The remote fuel primer bulb system installed will prevent this. Having a small hose connected to the atmospheric vent (air passageway from outside the carburetor to the float bowl area) in the carburetor is a lot safer than having raw fuel spilling out of the drilled hole on the side of the carburetor when pulling! An inexpensive and safe way to get extra fuel in the throttle bore to start a cold engine is to use a remote fuel primer bulb system. This system can also be adapted for use on ordinary garden tractors, lawn and garden equipment or virtually any type of small engine equipment with virtually any type of float-type carburetor. This system is similar to the same set up that many small engine manufacturers use on their engines nowadays. Works great with pump gas, race gas, E85 or alcohol fuel.
How the Remote Fuel Primer Bulb System Works: With the original atmospheric vent (air passageway from outside the carburetor to the float bowl area) in the carburetor plugged, a short brass tube is inserted into a drilled hole in the float bowl area on the side of the carburetor body, and with a small fuel hose connecting the carburetor to the primer bulb assembly, which is mounted on the steering column support pedestal, one quick push on the primer bulb (with your finger over the hole in the bulb to seal in the air) creates air pressure within the bulb, tubing and float bowl, which force fuel up through the high speed main jet/nozzle, creating a slight flooding condition in the throttle bore. Thus, helping a cold engine without a choke plate start much easier. With this system, the engine cannot be "over-choked," which could foul the spark plug. The fuel primer system can also be used as a manual accelerator pump when an engine hesitates to accelerate on its own.
How to Install and Use the Remote Fuel Primer Bulb System:
Remove carburetor from engine,
remove the float bowl and float, and plug the atmospheric vent passageway
opening that's located at the 2:00 position next to the choke plate with
a 1/4" Allen set screw. Cut some short threads for a 1/4" Allen set screw
and install the screw in the opening. If there's a small hole behind and
to the right of the choke plate, install a 3-48 screw with
high strength liquid threadlocker to plug this hole.
And if there's a small hole drilled on the outside of the carburetor body,
this will also need to be plugged with
JB Weld two-part epoxy or a short screw. See photo to the
right. (The installed tube, hose and hole in the primer bulb will be the
new atmospheric vent for the float bowl.)
FYI - Most [cold] engines will not start when fuel is introduced directly into the combustion chamber through the spark plug hole. Doing this only results in a flooding condition and the engine may not start. Gas (or starting fluid) needs to be mixed with incoming air through the carburetor intake so the air can atomize the fuel (break down into small particles) to burn thoroughly so the engine will be able to start quicker.
When removing the choke shaft, there's a tiny
(1/8" or 5/32") steel ball and small compression spring located at the 9:00
position when facing the choke end with the float area down. When the choke
shaft is removed, hold one finger over the screw hole and end of the choke
shaft hole to prevent the ball and spring from popping out and possibly getting
lost. By the way - the ball and spring is required for hand-operation of
the choke to keep it in the open position on stand-alone engines, such as
on a garden tiller, portable generator/welder, portable air compressor, portable
water pump, etc. If choke is remotely solid wire cable-operated, such as
in a tractor, then the ball and spring isn't needed.
Advertisement:
If you need a remote fuel primer kit, please contact A-1 Miller's
Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136
USA |  Phone: 1-573-256-0313
(shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays),
9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When
speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's
shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends (except Holidays).
Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
 Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
 E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. Go here for more parts:
Carburetor, Fuel System Parts & Machine Shop
Services | NOTE: To place an order, please call or send an
email with a list and description of the parts or services you need. Because
as of right now, we're not set up to accept orders through our web
sites.
|
Identification of Carter and Kohler Carburetors -
The carburetors that's used on Kohler engine models K90 (3.6hp), K91 (4hp), K141 (6¼hp), K160 (6.6hp), K161 (7hp) and K181/M8 (8hp) are as follows:
The Carter #16
carburetor originally came on Kohler engine models K90 (3.6hp), K91 (4hp),
K141 (6¼hp), K160 (6.6hp) and K181 (8hp), but because of its small venturi,
it's best suited for the K90/K91 engine. When used on a bigger engine, due
to the velocity of air that's required, the engine will not produce maximum
power at higher RPM. This carburetor came on various other sizes, makes and
models of engines, too. It was a popular carburetor for its time. The diameter
of the venturi measures .542", and the throttle bore is .810". The original
Kohler (Carter) part numbers for this carburetor are: A-220100, A-220574,
A-220745, A-220777, C-220777, E-220517, F-220762, F-230501, D-220451, G-220517,
46 053 03-S. Being these carburetors are no longer made (in the USA), their
replacement is the Walbro WHL #36. (Kohler part # 46 853 01-S.)
FYI - When Edelbrock bought out the [automotive division of] Carter Carburetor Corporation sometime before 1984, Carter sold their line of small engine carburetors to Kohler Engines in 1985. Kohler changed the throttle shaft/lever on the Carter Model N #16, #18, #20 and #22 carburetors, and also maintained the Carter name on them. And on the Carter #26 and #30 single cylinder engine carburetors, Kohler redesigned the throttle shaft/lever and made slots in the mounting holes for easier installation and removal on the engine block. Everything else is the same on the Carter and Kohler carburetors, with the exception of the throttle shaft/lever and various choke shaft levers. Six different variations of the Carter/Kohler carburetors was made for the K-series single cylinder 10hp through 18hp engines, KT-series and the K482, K532 and K582 opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engines. NOTE: Please don't discard your Carter/Kohler carburetor core. If not rebuildable, certain parts can be reused on a good core. (The OEM (US) manufacturers are phasing out many parts for flathead engines due to EPA smog emissions. But some parts are still available in aftermarket.)
The size number (diameter of
throttle bore) for the Carter/Kohler carburetors is embossed inside the upper
part of the choke end, just above the venturi. But not all Kohler carburetors
have a number embossed. In this case, the throttle bore (throttle plate area)
will need to be measured to determine the size of the carburetor. The size
number refers to the amount of air that can flow through the carburetor.
A #26 carburetor has a 26 millimeter diameter throttle bore, which converts
closely to 1.024 inches (26 ÷ 25.4 = 1.024"), but actually measures
1.07". A #28 carburetor has a 28 millimeter diameter throttle bore, which
converts to 1.102 inches (28 ÷ 25.4 = 1.102"), but actually measures
1.17". And a #30 carburetor has a 30 millimeter diameter throttle bore, which
converts to 1.181 inches (30 ÷ 25.4 = 1.181"), but actually measures
1.200". For precision, when measuring the throttle bore to determine the
size, it's best to use a
dial or digital caliper.
Carburetors that's used on Kohler engines are as follows:
By the way - the part number for any particular Kohler-made carburetor is stamped on the right side of the mounting flange. Don't refer to the numbers just below the fuel inlet port. They represent nothing that I know of. Click here to identify a Kohler or Walbro carburetor and matching parts: Kohler Carburetor Reference Manual TP-2377-E.pdf. (Requires Adobe Acrobat Reader and use Google Chrome web browser for a faster download of web sites with large files.)
Airflow - (CFM = Cubic Feet per Minute) (Below figures corrected 5/11/15.)
FYI - The throttle bore in the Carter/Kohler #26/1.07" carburetors can be bored to 1.17" (#28 size) or 1.2" (#30 size), and the high speed main jet/nozzle will still bottom out against the throttle bore, and of course, a 1.17" or 1.2" throttle shaft and plate would need to be used. But the boring process will break through the idle fuel mixing well (the idle progression holes and the welch plug hole) that's next to the throttle plate. Modifications to this area would need to be made by threading in an 1/8" Allen pipe plug where the welch plug is (was), and drilling and installing a small brass or copper tube from the idle fuel mixture adjuster screw down into the float bowl, next to the float, with enough clearance so it won't interfere with the movement of the float. A 1/4-28 UNF x 3/4" thread length bolt will also need to be installed where the high speed needle adjuster is (was) to block off a vacuum leak to will occur with the modifications of the idle fuel mixing well. Actually, it would be MUCH easier and less cost effective to just convert either a Carter/Kohler #28 or #30 carburetor for high performance use and not having to do anything to modify the idle fuel passageway.
And boring of the venturi in the carburetor alone will not help to increase engine performance. To increase the overall airflow in and out of the combustion chamber for improved engine performance, and if sanctioning club's rules allow this, the intake (and exhaust) port runners must be enlarged, too. This is called "porting an engine." The [stock size] valves will also need to be reworked for more airflow. Or larger valves and a bigger cam will need to be installed.
For competition pulling, carburetor design and size depends on port sizes, valve sizes, if the intake valve and seat have 30º/31º angles and undercut heads, and the cam profile (lift and duration) is important. If an engine has stock ports, valves and cam, a plain stock carburetor can be used. But if the ports and valves have been reworked for more airflow, and a bigger cam is going to be used, then a bored-out carburetor with a 1" or .995" (NQS legal) venturi can be used for best performance.
The 26mm carburetor obviously has a smaller throttle bore. Therefore, is restricted as to how much air can flow through it, even with the venturi removed. It'll work excellent on a hot 10hp or mild 12hp engine, but the larger 28mm and 30mm carburetors flows more air, 7.7% more for the 28mm, and 15.5% more for the 30mm. Which are ideal for a hot 12hp and larger engines with porting, polishing, bigger valves and a big cam. If you feel that a single 30mm carburetor won't flow enough air for your particular engine, then either a "Super Carb," Dellorto, Mikuni, S&S Super D or a twin Kohler carburetor setup (on a "Y" intake) should be used. If you have a 14hp Kohler engine, and you can't find a #28 or #30 carburetor, then a Carter or Kohler #26 carburetor will work just fine for general yard and garden use. Personally, I ran a stock Kohler #26 on the 14hp Kohler engine that's on my 6,000 lb. self-propelled pulling sled for 10 years and the engine didn't lack any power whatsoever.
Identification and Information About Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 Carburetors -
The Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64
carburetors originally come on all Magnum engines. These carburetors are
direct replacements for the Kohler carburetors. The Walbro #52 carburetor
has a throttle bore diameter of 1.07" and is designed for use on models K241/M10
(10hp), K301/M12 (12hp), KT17, KT17II, KT19, KT19II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20
and MV20 engines. And the Walbro #60 or #64 carburetor have a throttle bore
diameter of 1.2" and is designed for the K321/M14 (14hp), K341/M16 (16hp)
engines, and being the 1.25" Kohler carburetor that was originally designed
for the K361, 18hp OHV engine is longer available, the only option is to
use the Walbro #60 or #64 carburetor.
The older Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors are reliable and they seem to last a long time before requiring service. Most older Walbros are worth rebuilding, because the float valve seats are made of hardened solid bronze, which is actually harder than cast iron. They were manufactured back in the day when most business owners took pride in their products and offered their customers a quality product.
But the newer Walbro carburetors, especially the ones that come on recently-built aluminum block small air-cooled engines, are notorious for leaking gas after several years of use. Although overhaul/rebuild kits are available, it really does no good to rebuild them and install a new fuel inlet valve because the float valve seat is made of soft brass, which erodes with use due to microscopic particles of dirt/debris that pass through the filtering material in the fuel filter, and in most Walbro carburetors, the seat is not replaceable. The fuel inlet seat in older Walbro carburetors are made of hardened compressed bronze, which is actually harder than cast iron. There is no indication or records of when Walbro made the change from the hard seat to the soft seat.
The filtering material in fuel filters can only filter out so small of particles of dirt/debris. Any heavy particles that can pass through the filter will build up in the bottom of the float bowl and can eventually clog the high speed main jet. Lightweight and suspended particles gets sucked up through the high speed main jet and is burned in the combustion chamber. On very rare occasions, a hair can pass through the filter and become lodged in the float valve fuel inlet seat, causing the carburetor to flood with gas. When this happens, the hair can be removed with [150± psi] compressed air and the same float valve and seat can be reused.
To put it in plain English: If your Walbro carburetor doesn't leak gas out the choke end, but needs an overhaul, then it may be worthwhile to install a new kit. But if it does leak gas, then I doubt that a new float valve will fix the problem. Your only options are: install a fuel shut-off valve and turn off the fuel every time the engine is not in use, or install a rebuilt Carter/Kohler K-series carburetor.
About 90% of small engine carburetors are made by Walbro nowadays, and I don't think that one is better than the other. The trick to getting the soft brass seat (and needle/float valve) to last longer is to use a fuel filter with a very fine mesh or pleated paper element. The finer, the better. Because it's the microscopic dirt/debris/grit that passes through the filter that causes the seat (and needle/float valve) to erode and wear. And every pressed-in brass seat that I've replaced ALWAYS leaked gas. There's just no way to get them to seal with the carburetor body, not even with high strength liquid thread locker.
If a Walbro carburetor drips fuel, and a new carburetor is out of the question, the only options is to either install an under-the-[gas] tank or in-line fuel shut off valve (lots of people do this). Or a new carburetor can be purchased, and hope the leaking fuel situation doesn't happen again in a few years. (Walbro is like Walmart or Sam's Club, they want 'em keep coming back. This undoubtedly is how many world-wide, major businesses nowadays keep selling new high-dollar replacement Chinese-made carburetors and other engine parts to unknowing or ignorant customers.)
The only problem using a Walbro on a pulling tractor or for high performance application is they can't be bored-out or modified in any way because the throttle bore wall (where the venturi is located) is too thin. Therefore, they're limited to how much air can flow through them. The US government EPA laws required that Kohler and all other small engine manufacturers redesign their carburetors so the engine will produce less air pollution. So they started using a redesigned emissions-controlled, EPA-approved Walbro carburetor with a fixed/non-adjustable high speed main jet. This is to prevent people from setting the air/fuel ratio too rich and create more air pollution. The older-designed Walbros that have an adjustable high speed main jet, which is located on the lower right side of the carburetor, are still available new. high speed main jets of various sizes are available for most carburetors with a fixed/non-adjustable high speed main jet so the engine will run correctly depending on the altitude (atmospheric pressure) where the engine will be used.
Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors work great for ordinary lawn and garden equipment, general yard work and they're perfect for basic stock low RPM/low performance pulling tractors with an engine that's governed to a maximum of 3,200 RPM with a fixed/non-adjustable high speed main jet, or at 3,600 RPM with an adjustable high speed main jet. A carburetor with a fixed/non-adjustable high speed main jet is limited to just 3,200 RPM and should never be operated faster for an extended length of time. Although the venturi cannot be bored-out on a Walbro, they work equally as well as the older Carter/Kohler carburetors when used on a stock engine. The high speed main jet in the newer Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors are calibrated at the factory to provide the engine with just the right amount of fuel at 3,200 RPM. Therefore, the fixed/non-adjustable high speed main jet inside the carburetor cannot be replaced with an adjustable one.
Various High Quality Small Gas Engine Tachometers: (Posted: 6/7/15)
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Carter/Kohler or Walbro Fully Adjustable high speed main jet Carburetors VS. Walbro Fixed/Non-Adjustable high speed main jet Carburetor RPM to Horsepower Specs -
Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors with a fixed/non-adjustable high
speed main jet are designed with emission controls in mind to run leaner
to create less air pollution. However, the main problem with most Walbros
having a fixed/non-adjustable high speed main jet is during cooler weather
operation. During cool weather, and running at 3,200 RPM, the engine will
sometimes run too lean on fuel and operate erratically. To fix this, first
of all, make sure the hole in the high speed main jet is partially clogged.
If it is, use a
carburetor jet cleaner wire set or an
oxy-acetylene welding torch tip cleaner to clear any debris
that may be lodged in the hole. Then use [150± psi] compressed air to
clear out any dirt/debris. If the engine still runs too lean on fuel, simply
enlarge the hole in the high speed main jet a few thousandths of an inch.
Then use [150± psi] compressed air to clear out any metal particles.
Be careful not to enlarge the hole in the high speed main jet too much,
or the engine will run rich on fuel! The hole diameter in the OEM factory
high speed main jet for 100% gasoline is 3/64" (.047"). If necessary, enlarge
the high speed main jet and fuel inlet holes with a #55 (.052") drill bit.
That's a .0052" difference. After doing this, for cool weather, the engine
should run better, last longer and produce more power. But don't enlarge
the hole in the high speed main jet too much! A too big of a hole will cause
an engine to run too rich on fuel, making it blow black smoke out the exhaust
and possibly fouling the spark plug. If the hole is made too large, the
carburetor will be useless for gasoline, and E85 fuel must be used. But if
an engine is going to be used only during warm weather and if it runs okay
[during warm weather], don't enlarge the hole in the high speed main jet.
On the newer carburetors with a fixed/non-adjustable high speed main jet, the hole in the high speed main jet may need to be enlarged .002"-.003" to give the engine a little more fuel so it'll run better at higher RPM. Otherwise, the engine could "burn up" or wear out prematurely due to the lean air/fuel mixture. I have an assortment of tiny drill bits that I use on our customer's lawn & garden equipment carburetors.
A new
style Walbro carburetor with a fixed/non-adjustable high speed main jet should
never be used on a non-governed (wide-open throttle) engine or on an engine
that's going to turn at 3,200 RPM! The reason for this is because if an engine
operates faster with a carburetor having a fixed/non-adjustable high speed
main jet, it'll run too lean on fuel at high RPM (it'll draw much more air
than fuel), which will cause the combustion chamber to overheat and the excessive
heat will likely damage the piston and rings and possibly warp the cylinder
head and/or exhaust valve or even crack the cast iron engine
block. A lean fuel mixture can also melt
away part of the aluminum in the combustion chamber of an aluminum block
engine.
The size number on the Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors is embossed inside the carburetor and can be seen by looking inside the upper part of the choke end, just above the venturi. A "52" carburetor has a 26 millimeter diameter throttle bore, which converts closely to 1.024 inches (26 ÷ 25.4 = 1.024"), but actually measures 1.07".
And being the venturi in the
old-style Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors used on Kohler engine models
K90 (3.6hp), K91 (4hp), K141 (6¼hp), K160 (6.6hp), K161 (7hp) and K181
(8hp) can't be bored-out either, the only option for pulling competitively
with these is to fabricate an adapter to fasten to the intake port on the
engine block and use a #52 Walbro or #26 Carter/Kohler carburetor.
The best way to determine which engine any particular carburetor is made for is to measure the diameter of the throttle bore. Because a set of numbers that's stamped on the carburetor body mean nothing, not even to Kohler Engine dealers. If a carburetor measures .822" (13/16"), then it's made for the 6¼hp, 7hp or 8hp engines. If it measures 1.07", then it's for the 10hp or 12hp engines. And if it measures 1.17" or 1.2", it's for a 14hp, 16hp (flathead) or 18hp OHV engine.
The Wrong Type of Choke Lever!
Whenever I get a carburetor with the choke lever in the wrong position, if
it has a steel choke shaft, I just grind the lever off at the flare and weld
or braze it back on the shaft in the right position. But if it has a brass
shaft, I use a steel choke shaft out of a junk carburetor. Or if I don't
have a used one in stock, I machine a steel choke shaft from a 1/4" mild
steel rod. Like the old saying goes: "There's more than one way to skin a
cat."
The Choke Shaft Detent Ball and Spring -
When removing the choke shaft, there's a tiny
(1/8" or 5/32") steel ball and small compression spring located at the 9:00
position when facing the choke end with the float area down. When the choke
shaft is removed, hold one finger over the screw hole and end of the choke
shaft hole to prevent the ball and spring from popping out and possibly getting
lost. By the way - the ball and spring is required for hand-operation of
the choke to keep it in the open position on stand-alone engines, such as
on a garden tiller, portable generator/welder, portable air compressor, portable
water pump, etc. If choke is remotely solid wire cable-operated, such as
in a tractor, then the ball and spring isn't needed.
Installing the choke shaft over the friction (detent) ball can be tricky. This is how it's done:
Place the carburetor on a sturdy work bench or table with the
choke end facing upward and the float area facing toward you, or gently clamp
it in a bench vise.
or
automotive grease through the screw holes for smooth choke
operation and less wear to the shaft and/or carburetor body.
How to adjust the fuel mixture screws on a Kohler (or virtually any early small engine) carburetor - Top of page
First of all, as long as the engine runs well, don't worry about how the idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments are made. The adjustments depend on the altitude (atmospheric pressure) where the engine will be used. In higher elevations, air is thin, therefore the engine requires more air than fuel to run well. And in lower elevations, air is heavy, and the engine requires less air than fuel. So there is obviously no "one set adjustment" for all carburetors. And no new or rebuilt carburetor with adjustable jet(s) for small engines, automotive or whatever, come from the manufacturer or rebuilder with the idle speed, idle air/fuel mixture or the high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments set correctly. These are initially set just to get the engine running, and due to variations in the altitude (atmospheric pressure) where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments will need to be made by the customer or an experienced small engine mechanic/technician so the engine will run smooth.
Correct Orientation and
Installation of Throttle Plates -
All factory-made throttle plates, rather automotive, farm tractor engine, small engine, etc., are made oblong 3% and have a slight angle on the sides that seals against the sides of the throttle bore. The angle and oblong shape prevents the majority of air from entering the engine in the fully closed position. On the Carter, Kohler and Walbro carburetors, the C (Carter), K (Kohler) or W (Walbro) embossed on the throttle plate faces outward and toward the right when facing the carburetor with the float area down. If installed in reverse, too much air will by-pass the throttle plate and the engine won't be able to idle down at a slow speed. Some aftermarket throttle plates don't have an angle, so they can be installed in either direction. But they'll still seal just as well.
The High Speed Needle Adjuster -
On the Carter/Kohler carburetors, the hole towards the bottom of the long high speed main needle adjuster is supposed to be open, so the engine can draw fuel through it for idling from the float bowl. The idle fuel passageways for a Carter/Kohler carburetor goes as follows: Fuel is first drawn through the high speed needle adjuster via the tiny lower hole towards the bottom, then through engine vacuum, it is drawn upward through the tube, then over and down toward the idle mixture screw (which sets at an angle), and then the fuel is drawn into the throttle bore, next to the throttle plate. The information below is mainly for Carter/Kohler carburetors. The fuel mixture screws are used as follows:
For improved idling for a stock or pulling engine with a
Carter/Kohler carburetor, remove the high speed main fuel adjuster and if
it has only one lower hole, carefully enlarge the hole by hand with
a .039" / #60 / 1mm diameter drill bit clamped in a
mini micro pin vise hand drill chuck. This is the perfect
size to enlarge the lower hole on high speed needle adjusters so the engine
will start quicker and idle better. Being the tube is made of soft brass,
there's no need to use an electric drill. Then use [150± psi] compressed
air to clear out any dirt/debris from inside the tube, and then suck through
the tube with your mouth to make sure it's clear and unclogged. If the tube
has two lower through-holes, there's no need to enlarge them because both
of them together makes the opening plenty big. Anyway, if the tube is still
clogged, use a small, bendable steel wire, such as a
bread wrapper twist tie (with the plastic coating stripped
off), to clean out the inside of the tube. Then use the [150± psi]
compressed air to thoroughly clear it out. Suck through the tube with your
mouth to make sure it's clear and unclogged. If performing either of the
above È doesn't clear out the tube,
then acquire a new high speed main fuel needle adjuster or one in good condition.
But make sure it's the correct adjuster for your particular carburetor!
For the K90/91, K141, K160/161
and K181 engines with the Carter carburetor, if the engine idles fine, but
fails to accelerate, install a short 6-32 UNF screw in the emulsion hole
leading to the main nozzle just under the choke plate.
Many times when cleaning a Carter/Kohler carburetor, the welch plug that's on the side of the carburetor doesn't need to be removed. With the idle air/fuel mixture screw and the high speed needle adjuster removed, use [150± psi] compressed air in either screw hole and feel if air comes out either hole and if air comes out the tiny fuel hole that's next to the throttle plate. If air does come out of these holes, then the idle fuel passageway is clear and the welch plug don't need to be removed. A squirt of WD40 or aerosol carburetor cleaner can be used instead of [150± psi] compressed air.
Advertisement:
| If you need any of the parts or services listed below
Ê, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am
to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When
speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's
shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends (except Holidays).
Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. NOTE: To place
an order, please call either number above or send an email with a list and
description of the parts or services you need. Because as of right now, my
websites are not set up to accept orders online. |
Quality High Speed Steel
Spiral Drill Bit. Size: .039" / #60 / 1mm diameter x 1-3/8" length. Perfect
size to enlarge lower hole on high speed needle adjusters above
È for Carter/Kohler carburetors so engine
will start quicker and idle better. An ingenious and innovative concept
by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise the use of this part.
|
 3-48 UNC Screws w/split lock
washers to fasten throttle or choke plate in Carter, OEM Kohler,
Kohler-replacement (Walbro) or various other throttle shafts. (.095" outside
thread diameter; screw length measured from under head to end of threads.)
Each are grade 18-8 stainless steel; tensile strength: 120,000 psi. Discontinued
from Kohler. L Replaces Kohler part
# 234209-S.
Many other small screw sizes available at reasonable prices. |
Quality High Speed Steel Taper Taps. Taper taps allow for the tip
to be inserted deeper in the hole for easier cutting of threads.
|
If an engine blows black smoke out the exhaust while running, then here are the main causes:
Black exhaust smoke is when an engine is getting too much gas and/or not enough air in the combustion chamber. The causes for this are either... (listed from most common to rare causes)
Also, sometimes flooding of the carburetor will deposit gas in the motor oil, but only in a vertical shaft engine. Because gas can't seep into the crankcase on horizontal shaft engines. The cause of the problem is the carburetor is flooding. The gas seeps past the piston ring gaps and into the crankcase. To fix this, clean the float valve (needle and seat) in the carburetor, or install a new carburetor overhaul kit with a new float valve needle and seat. Also, clean out the fuel hoses with [150± psi] compressed air and install a new fuel filter. And then the oil will need to be drained and fresh motor oil installed.
NOTE: Use a thin-wall deep
well 3/8" size socket for easy removal and/or installation of the hex-shaped
float valve seat in the Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 or Carter/Kohler #26, #28,
#30 carburetors. The socket may need to be machined down to 1/2" diameter
in a metal lathe so it will fit into the seat depression in carburetor body.
And use a large, wide flat blade screwdriver to remove and/or install the
slotted float valve seat.
The Cause of Carburetor Flooding at Slow Idle with a Long Duration/High Performance Camshaft -
Sometimes when using a long duration/high performance camshaft, despite if the engine has a modified or stock carburetor, if the engine idles for a long period of time, it may run rich on fuel at slow idle speeds. What happens is with a long duration cam, intake vacuum is low and with a single cylinder engine, excess fuel builds up in the intake extension/port. Any engine that has a long duration camshaft have low vacuum at slow idle speeds. The longer the duration, the lower the vacuum. What causes excess fuel to build up in the intake is the long duration of the cam lobes holds the [intake] valve open longer, and at slow idle, the pressure of the piston blows some of the air/fuel back into the intake tube. The more duration a cam has, the worse this will be. As the engine is accelerated, black smoke or raw unburned fuel will blow out the exhaust until the fuel is cleared out of the intake tube. With the engine running well above idle, air becomes trapped within the combustion chamber and the piston don't have time to blow any air/fuel back into the intake. This happens with automotive gasoline, E85 or 100% methanol fuels, and there's nothing that can be done about it. There's probably nothing wrong with the carburetor, and nothing can be done to the idle circuit to prevent this. Just make a simple adjustment with the idle air/fuel mixture screw so the engine idles smoothly, and don't allow the engine to idle for a long period of time.
The Major Causes of Carburetor Flooding -
Personally, I don't put any additives in my gas. I think it's a waste of money and effort. I just dump any left-over gas from my customer's small engine equipment in my car or truck, let it mix with the fresh gas that's already in the tank, then I use fresh gas in my customer's small engine equipment. If there's water in the gas, I separate the gas from the water in a bucket (water always goes to the bottom). And if there's dirt/debris in the gas, I strain/filter the gas through a clean shop towel placed in a large funnel in a gas can.
What prevents most carburetor and fuel system from having problems when using gasoline is to run the engine out of fuel or draining the entire fuel system if it's not going to be used for more than 30 days at a time. If there's no fuel left in the system, then there should be no problems. The following causes are listed from most common to rare.
If fuel drips out of or from the carburetor...
Fuel
leak at the carburetor float bowl rubber O-ring seal. Only happens when engine
is in use.
If gas constantly pours out of the carburetor...
If the carburetor on an engine
has been setting for some time without an air filter housing, and if gas
pours out of the carburetor only when cranking the engine, especially with
a mechanical fuel pump, then the gas stops pouring out when the engine isn't
cranked, check for a clogged atmospheric vent (air passageway from outside
the carburetor to the float bowl area) in the carburetor. Sometimes a
mud dauber (wasp-like insect) will build their nest in
a place like this. (I've seen this happen a few times with carburetor rebuilds.)
What makes crankcase oil black is blow-by due to either worn piston rings, carburetor flooding or the engine running rich on fuel (gas). And if there's gas in the oil (you can smell the presence of gas), this means there's a hole in the diaphragm in the mechanical fuel pump. Being there are no fuel pump repair kits available nowadays, an either good used or new replacement fuel pump is required.
How to Separate Gas from Water - (With the price of gasoline nowadays, this would be a wise thing to do.)
Gasoline and alcohol fuels
are both extremely flammable! Use caution and don't smoke, avoid making sparks
or don't have an open flame exposed when working near or with either of them.
Work in a well-ventilated area, too.
By the way - We've been to a lot of garden tractor pulls through the years and noticed that some pulling tractors leak fuel in places where a fuel leak shouldn't be. Therefore, I think the safety inspections should include checking the fuel hoses for dry-rotting, cracks, fuel leaks, loose fittings, etc. (The tractors should have sturdy wheelie bars, too.) The inspectors should grab hold of the fuel hose(s) with their hand, bend it and slightly jerk on it to check for durability. This is very important. Especially in a kid's class. Don't wait until a small issue becomes a major problem, then turn in to a catastrophe. If a pulling club's sanctioning safety rules are enforced, and pullers would build their tractors right and maintain them regularly, there wouldn't be any injuries, fires, or fear of a fire. Click here to read more about a garden pulling tractor catching on fire.
If an engine won't idle or idles poorly, then the following should be checked and corrected...
Solutions: Remove the high speed main fuel adjuster and
if it has only one lower hole, carefully enlarge the hole by hand
with a .039" / #60 / 1mm diameter drill bit clamped in a
mini micro pin vise hand drill chuck. This is the perfect
size to enlarge lower the hole on high speed needle adjusters so the engine
will start quicker and idle better. Being the tube is made of soft brass,
there's no need to use an electric drill. Then use [150± psi] compressed
air to clear out any dirt/debris from inside the tube, and then suck through
the tube with your mouth to make sure it's clear and unclogged. If the tube
has two lower through-holes, there's no need to enlarge them because both
of them together makes the opening plenty big. Anyway, if the tube is still
clogged, use a small, bendable steel wire, such as a
bread wrapper twist tie (with the plastic coating stripped
off), to clean out the inside of the tube. Then use the [150± psi]
compressed air to thoroughly clear it out. Suck through the tube with your
mouth to make sure it's clear and unclogged. If performing either of the
above È doesn't clear out the tube,
then acquire a new high speed main fuel needle adjuster or one in good condition.
But make sure it's the correct adjuster for your particular carburetor!
Solution: The carburetor
probably has the wrong high speed needle adjuster. If the adjuster has four
tiny holes midway (Kohler part #'s 235415-S or 48 103 01-S), thoroughly clean
the area around the holes with fine emery cloth or wire wheel, and solder
over (block off) two of the holes opposite of each other with a
soldering gun and
electrical solder. Doing this will create a stronger suction
(vacuum) of fuel through the tube so the engine will idle. Be sure to smooth
the solder (get rid of any lumps) so it won't obstruct the flow of air through
the carburetor.If an engine idles slow when the throttle lever is held to the slowest position by hand, but refuses to idle down on its own, the following may be the causes:
But if an engine idles well, but runs only at higher RPM (up to 3,200 RPM with a fixed/non-adjustable high speed main jet; or 3,600 RPM with an adjustable high speed main jet) with the choke partially closed, or if it surges or hesitates to rev up upon acceleration, this means the engine is running too lean on fuel, and following are the most likely causes: (listed from most common to rare)
Solution: Remove carburetor,
remove float bowl and float, and use a
carburetor jet cleaner wire set or an
oxy-acetylene welding torch tip cleaner to clear out the
dried gas and/or dirt/debris from the high speed main jet.
When cleaning the hole in the high speed main
jet, use a wire cleaner of the appropriate size, and be careful not to enlarge
the hole, or the engine may run too rich on fuel! But if
the engine still runs the same after cleaning the high speed main jet, then
the hole in the high speed main jet will need to be slightly if enlarged
a few thousandths of an inch to give the engine a little more fuel. After
cleaning or enlarging the hole in the high speed main jet, always use [150±
psi] compressed air to clear the debris and/or metal fragments from the
carburetor.
But if fuel spews out of
the air vent hole in the gas cap due to normal engine vibration when the
engine runs at full governored speed, at high RPM or wide open throttle,
simply install a small piece of foam rubber
(reticulated polyurethane foam) inside the cap, beneath
the sealing gasket. The foam will absorb the fuel, and it'll still allow
incoming air to pass through it as the fuel is depleted in the tank so the
engine will run.
Solution: If throttle shaft hole in the carburetor body
has a counterbore, install new flat bronze bushing and/or new throttle shaft,
or if no counterbore is present, have throttle shaft hole precision-bored
for installation of a new bronze sleeve bushing.
Click here for more information.
FYI - If you've had your carburetor apart about 10 times, and you found nothing wrong with it, but the engine still runs the same with the same carburetor installed, then the problem obviously isn't in the carburetor. As an older, experienced mechanic once said, "Most carburetor problems are electrical." (Meaning faulty ignition system.) This has proven true more times than I can remember.
Backfiring out the exhaust upon deceleration is normal for virtually all engines since gas is still going through the combustion chamber, compressing in the exhaust and exploding from the exhaust heat. But if an engine constantly backfires out the exhaust at any speeds after running for several minutes, the problem may be...
The Anti-Backfire Fuel Solenoid (and Valve) -
Kohler's Magnum Fuel Solenoid
came on certain models K181, M18 and K582 engines, and virtually all M20
and MV20 engines. The anti-backfire solenoid valve [in the carburetor] shuts
off the engine when the ignition is turned off. The valve only blocks off
the main jet in the carburetor to prevent fuel from entering the combustion
chamber. It does not prevent fuel off from entering the float bowl. The way
the solenoid works is, upon engine shut down, the valve blocks air from entering
the float bowl through the atmospheric vent (which is where the solenoid
valve is located). When this happens, the engine can't draw fuel, so it shuts
down. The solenoid is energized the entire time the ignition switch is on.
The reason Kohler installed this feature is to prevent the engine from producing
a loud backfire out the muffler when it's shut off. With the solenoid in
working condition and upon engine shut down, no unburned fuel enters the
hot muffler, therefore, no backfire. When the solenoid fails or goes bad,
the engine will not start.
NOTE: Being the solenoid for various M18, M20 and MV20 engines (OEM Kohler part # 25 755 06-S) is no longer available, to convert these engines without use of the solenoid, remove the failed solenoid and valve, cut some short threads in the hole (remove the float bowl first and use compressed air to clear out the metal cuttings), and install a 3/8" Allen set screw in the hole. Don't thread the set screw deep in the hole, or it will block off air from entering the float bowl. Without a solenoid, the engine would require a different ignition switch to shut off the spark. And the engine should be idled down before shutting it off to lessen the chance of a backfire out the muffler.
The fuel solenoid used on newer
Briggs & Stratton, Kohler, etc., engines is located on the bottom of
the float bowl. The spring-loaded plunger in it stops the fuel supply to
the combustion chamber by blocking off the high speed main jet as soon as
the ignition is turned off. With this type of fuel solenoid, the engine will
die immediately when the ignition is turned off. This solenoid also prevents
a loud BANG out the muffler when the ignition is turned off while the engine
is hot. Without it, when the [hot] engine is turned off while throttled up,
unburned gas will continue to pass through the combustion chamber, build
up in the still red-hot muffler where the gas is compressed with hot air,
and then produce a loud BANG out the muffler.
If the solenoid goes bad (it's supposed to make a "click" sound when the ignition is turned on), it can be replaced with a new one, or remove it and simply snip off the protruding pin (plunger rod), and reinstall it. Doing this will allow the engine to draw fuel and run. But remember to idle the engine down for a few minutes each time before shutting it off, or like I said, it may produce a loud BANG out the muffler.
Advertisement:
| If you need any of the parts or services listed below
Ê, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am
to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When
speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's
shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends (except Holidays).
Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. NOTE: To place
an order, please call either number above or send an email with a list and
description of the parts or services you need. Because as of right now, my
websites are not set up to accept orders online.
Kohler Anti-Backfire Solenoid Kit.
|
How To Loosen a Gummed-Up, Stuck, Corroded or Rusted-In-Place Throttle or Choke Shaft, or Adjusting Screw -
EVAPO-RUST® and
Metal Rescue are very safe products to use and
works wonders to remove rust and loosen virtually any rusted or corroded
metal part! Just soak the carburetor body for 1 hour for light rust and up
to 12 hours for extremely heavy rust. Then use small locking pliers
(Vise Grip) to GENTLY rotate the shaft back and forth
. Don't force it because it could become twisted
and/or break off at the closest plate retaining screw hole! It may rotate
(loosen) just a few thousandths of an inch. After it rotates slightly, spray
it again and gently rotate it again. Eventually, it should rotate more and
swivel 100% free. These products are very safe to use and they work wonders
on virtually anything that's rusted!
Or use a heavy duty bathroom toilet bowl cleaner. Most of them will remove rust and scale. If it reads on the label that it will remove rust, then that's the one to use. Pour the cleaner in a container that's large enough for the carburetor body, and allow it to soak for about 30 minutes and then rinse it off with water. The throttle or choke shaft should swivel with no problems.
GUNK Liquid Wrench® also works wonders to loosen virtually
any rusted or corroded metal part! Just spray the ends of the throttle or
choke shaft, let soak for about 30 minutes or perhaps overnight, then use
small locking pliers
(Vise Grip) to GENTLY rotate the shaft back and forth
. Don't force it because it could become twisted
and/or break off at the closest plate retaining screw hole! It may rotate
(loosen) just a few thousandths of an inch. After it rotates slightly, spray
it again and gently rotate it again. Eventually, it should rotate more and
swivel 100% free.
If the shaft(s) refuse to loosen with either Evapo-Rust, Liquid Wrench or
heavy duty bathroom toilet bowl cleaner, remove the float bowl, float, baffle
shield and O-ring seal. Clamp the carburetor in a bench vice, then use a
propane torch or an
oxy-acetylene torch to LIGHTLY heat the carburetor
body next to the shaft (don't get the carburetor body too hot!), and use
the locking pliers
(Vise Grip) to GENTLY rotate the shaft back and forth
. The shaft should swivel 100% free within a
few seconds of heating. Heating might also work to remove a stuck-in-place
idle speed adjuster screw, idle fuel mixture screw or the high speed main
adjuster screw. Be very gentle rotating a brass screw to loosen it because
being brass is a soft metal, it could snap off! And be careful not to get
cast aluminum too hot, it may crumble or split into pieces! Don't use a torch
in an attempt to remove a stuck high speed main jet/nozzle from a carburetor
that's in good condition. Being the aluminum surrounding the high speed main
jet/nozzle is thin, it will most likely crumble or split into pieces under
the severe heat, rendering the carburetor useless.
How to Clean the Inside of a Heavily Rusted or Dirty Fuel Tank -
Fill the fuel tank with
EVAPO-RUST® or
Metal Rescue™, leave it for 1 hour for light rust
and up to 12 hours for extremely heavy rust, drain and flush with clean water,
allow to thoroughly dry. These products are very safe to use and they work
wonders on virtually anything that's rusted!
Another method to clean an internally rusted or especially dirty fuel tank, put some small driveway gravel in the tank with water, seal the fuel outlet fitting and gas cap vent holes (make sure the gas cap has a good seal), then literally and vigorously shake the heck out of it! Or for less tiresome labor, put the gravel and water in the tank, seal it up, securely tie a blanket around it and then put it in a clothes dryer. Set the dryer on the cold or "No Heat" setting, and let it agitate for a couple of hours. When the water is drained and majority of the gravel removed, use a garden water hose to thoroughly clean out inside the tank. It should look new inside. If there's still some rust or dirt/debris in it, repeat the process until all the rust or dirt/debris is broken loose. And despite of what you've probably heard, putting sugar in a fuel tank will NOT ruin the engine! Read about it here: snopes.com: Sugar in the fuel tank.
How to Repair a Hole in a Storage (Fuel) Tank -
If virtually any kind of ferrous metal (steel) tank have a rusted or dented hole in it and leaks fuel or liquid, it can be successfully repaired by using a quality-made fuel tank sealant. But if the hole is too large for the sealant, and if the tank is made of steel, a reputable automotive radiator repair shop can solder a [tin] patch over the hole. Then ask them to pressure test the tank filled with air submerged in water to see if the patched hole leaks (bubbles). They usually have rubber expansion plugs of various sizes to block-off the inlet and outlet openings or ports.
First of all, I hate when people throw away a reusable throttle
or choke shaft just because it has a broken off screw in it. The only reason
most carburetor manufacturers install soft brass screws in the throttle and
choke shafts for the throttle and choke plates is because the protruding
threaded ends can be easily flared to prevent the screws from loosening and
dislodging from the shaft. This saves them money from not having to use lock
washers or liquid threadlocker.
When removing these screws and to prevent from breaking them off, first, grind down the protruding/flared ends with a Dremel or equivalent small rotary grinder chucked with either a very small grinding stone (chainsaw sharpening stone) or an 1/8" high speed steel end mill until the threads are flush with the shaft. Then the screws can be easily removed from the shaft without breaking them off. Be sure to use a quality-made screwdriver with a flat blade and square edge that fits the slot in the screw head perfectly to prevent from distorting or "stripping out" the slot, too. (This is why I use and offer for sale hardened stainless steel screws [with split lock washers]. Unlike [OEM] soft brass screws, stainless steel will not strip out or break off.)
But should a brass screw break off in the shaft without first grinding down the protruding/flared end, sometimes the shaft can be difficult to remove from the carburetor body due to the protruding flared end. Or if the slot in the screw head gets "stripped out." In this case, use the Dremel to grind the flared end of the [broken] screw and/or grind off the head of the screw until it's flush with the shaft. Then the shaft can be removed. Afterwards, the broken screw can be drilled out using a milling machine or drill press with a 1/16" centering bit to make a small depression in the dead center of the broken screw to prevent "drill bit skating" so either a 5/64", #46 or 2mm bit can be used to drill out the rest of the broken screw, and then the threads may need to be straightened with a 3-48 UNC tap. Don't use a center punch on the broken screw, which could bend the shaft, create a crack when straightened, possibly cause it to break later when in use. The throttle and choke shafts in Carter and Kohler carburetors originally come with 3-48 UNC screws. A #3 split lock washer should be used with a 3-48 screw. Should the threaded hole become enlarged from drilling out the broken screw, the hole(s) can be made bigger with a 4-40 UNC tap, and a 4-40 UNC screw with a #4 split lock washer will need to be installed. By the way - liquid threadlocker is not required with a lock washer.
Be sure to use a split lock
washer of the correct size under each screw to prevent it from becoming dislodged
from the shaft and possibly being sucked into the combustion chamber, resulting
in a possible bent intake valve or severe damage to the piston, cylinder
head and/or cylinder wall. Return To Previous
Paragraph or Website.
Removing the High Speed Main Jet/Nozzle from a Carter/Kohler #26, #28 or #30 Carburetor -
When rebuilding a plain, stock
Carter/Kohler #26, #28 or #30 carburetor, there is no need to remove the
high speed main jet/nozzle. If the high speed main jet/nozzle will not come
out, don't worry about it. All that has to be done is make sure that the
bottom hole and side holes in the high speed main jet/nozzle are open. To
check if the side holes are open, simply spray WD-40 or aerosol carburetor
cleaner through the small hole just beneath the choke plate and observe if
it comes out the high speed main jet/nozzle inside the throttle bore and
float bowl area.
But if the high speed main jet/nozzle is clogged, or if you're boring the venturi to modify the carburetor for high performance use, then the high speed main jet/nozzle definitely needs to be removed. Before attempting to remove the high speed main jet/nozzle, and if the screwdriver slot is in good condition, then I found the best, easiest and proven way to remove it is by the following process. This method works great most of the time and the high speed main jet/nozzle should loosen with no problems.
by
hand (with the screwdriver) to loosen it. Do not use a wooden handle screwdriver
because the handle could break.
If the above
È method still didn't work, then
unfortunately, sometimes the high speed main jet/nozzle will get stuck in
place and the screwdriver slot will strip out. (I hate when this happens.)
The alternative method is to drill out the high speed main jet/nozzle. This
process is as follows:
Removing the high speed main jet/nozzle from a Carter #16, #18, #20 or #22 Carburetor for Cleaning -
If the high speed main jet/nozzle in a Carter #16, #18, #20
or #22 carburetor that's used on Kohler engine models K90 (3.6hp), K91 (4hp),
K141 (6¼hp), K160 (6.6hp), K161 (7hp) or K181 (8hp) needs to be removed
for cleaning, being this type of nozzle is pressed in the carburetor body.
It removes and reinstalls a lot easier than the above
È high speed main jet/nozzle. The removal
and installation process is as follows:
By the way - as far as I know, new high speed main jet/nozzles for the Carter #16, #18, #20 or #22 carburetor is not available from any source.
Removing a Broken-Off High Speed Main Fuel Mixture Adjuster Needle Valve from a Carter/Kohler Carburetor -
Sometimes when an engine sits with gas in the fuel system, the old, dried gas residue will cause the high speed adjuster to become seized in the carburetor body. And when attempting to remove it, the hollow tube could will break off flush with the carburetor body. (Anything is possible with soft brass and old, dried gas.) Anyway, The removal process of a broken-off main adjuster is as follows:
If you don't feel comfortable removing the broken adjuster yourself, I charge $30.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling, to remove a broken adjuster.
Using Pump Gas with 10% Ethanol Versus 100% Race Gas in a Pulling Tractor -
First of all, in an daily-driven vehicle, gasoline with no lead is hard on soft cast iron exhaust valve seats. A soft cast iron valve seat is one that's been machined directly into an engine block or cylinder head, and it have not been heated-treated or no hardened insert is installed. In a daily-driven automobile, the seat(s) will eventually deteriorate or the metal will literally "wear away" because the absence of lead in gas to provide a protective coating to prevent wear. And being most exhaust valves are made of extremely hardened steel, they're not likely to wear at all. The intake valve and the cast iron seat is not likely to wear as much, if any. And an engine block or cylinder head with heat-treated seats or have hardened steel exhaust valve seat insert(s) installed, they should not wear whatsoever.
Anyway, the 10% ethanol in pump gas (common everyday automotive fuel) lessens exhaust emissions. Plus, the alcohol content boosts the octane, making it somewhat of a high performance fuel. The lead content in race gas (VP, Turbo Blue, Sunoco, Torco, etc.) boosts the octane also, except it's alcohol-free to pass the tech fuel test for tractor pulling. And the valve seat(s) that's ground in a cast iron block in a pulling engine burning 87 octane unleaded regular gas should last a long time, no longer than the tractor runs down the track (2-3 minutes per pull). They're not being driven a long distance, like in a car or truck.
Average Octane Rating of Various Fuels -
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By the way - I've never had problems with gas having 10% ethanol in any of my small engines or automotive engines. I don't know why anyone else would. Maybe that's because when one is having problems with a small engine not running right, it's much easier to just blame it on "bad gas" than to look for the real problem elsewhere with the engine. Remember - it takes three things to make an internal combustion engine run: carburetion, compression and ignition. A professional, thorough and energetic mechanic don't blame the problem on one thing and overlook the other two. Unless of course, he's lazy and looking to make some quick money by doing an easy fix.
NOTE: The high speed main jet (and fuel inlet hole) should not be enlarged for alcohol-free, high octane racing gas, such as VP, Turbo Blue, Sunoco, Premium gas, or gas with 10% ethanol, because these fuels require the same air/fuel mixture ratio as for ordinary, low octane automotive gas. The only time the high speed main jet and fuel inlet holes needs to enlarged is when burning E85 or methanol fuels. If the high speed main jet hole is intentionally enlarged for gas, the engine will run too rich on fuel, and there'll be no way to lean it out.
Using
E85
Fuel in a Garden Tractor or Lawn & Garden Equipment -
What is E85? E85 is the term for motor fuel blends (special blend of automotive fuel) of 85% ethanol (corn alcohol AKA "moonshine") and 15% gasoline. E85 is an alternative fuel as defined by the U.S. Department of Energy. Besides its superior performance characteristics, ethanol burns cleaner than pure gasoline; it is a completely renewable, domestic, environmentally friendly fuel that enhances the nation's economy and energy independence. The addition of ethanol boosts octane and, because it is an oxygenate, ethanol contributes to a more complete fuel combustion resulting in reduced emissions of carbon monoxide and other ozone-forming emissions. Ethanol also degrades quickly in water and, therefore, poses much less risk to the environment than an oil or gasoline spill. To learn more about E85, visit this web site: National Ethanol Vehicle Coalition (http://www.e85fuel.com).
Fueling with E85 is not only beneficial to the environment, you'll most likely see a small increase in performance, which will be accompanied by a small decrease in fuel economy. On average, when an engine is powered by E85, the engine will have about 5% more horsepower and a 10% drop in fuel-efficiency. The added power comes from ethanol's higher (105) octane rating. The fuel economy decrease comes from the fact that ethanol has a lower energy content than gasoline, which means the engine will have to use more of it.
E85 is available from most gas pumps at about 15% less than 91 octane. It can be used in virtually any gas engine fuel system, new or old. The only problem is, the rubber-like fuel hose, seals and gaskets in the fuel system might deteriorate due to the alcohol content in E85. But if the fuel system has neoprene rubber or synthetic rubber parts, there should be no problems. E85 works great for competition pulling, general yard use or for any small engine equipment. It'll create less carbon build up in the combustion chamber, too. I've reworked lots of carburetors for people who use their garden tractor just to mow grass with and they love how the E85 produces more power. Their only complaint is the engine burns more fuel. But that's the sacrifice for more power. If an engine is converted correctly, E85 should cause no problems with engine wear or fuel system deterioration. Basically, all that needs to be done to the engine is the high speed main jet and fuel inlet (float valve) hole in the carburetor will need to be made about 80% bigger and the ignition timing will need to be advanced about 150% more than stock. If the high speed main jet isn't enlarged, the engine probably won't run on E85, or if it does, it will run too lean on fuel, overheat the engine, possibly damage the valves, piston and piston rings because of the excessive operating temperature. And if the timing isn't advanced enough to thoroughly burn the [slower burning] E85 fuel, some of it will exit out the exhaust unburned, with no increase in power.
No special motor oil is required with E85. But with prolonged idling, the oil may need to be changed more often. The 20% increase in the high speed main jet and fuel inlet holes, and ignition timing applies to virtually all small engine carburetors and engines, despite the make or manufacturer.
E85 can be purchased at select gas stations in the U.S. It cost less per gallon than regular unleaded gasoline. And an engine will burn about 20% more fuel than gas with E85, but it'll also produce about 10% more power, operate cooler, have a cleaner combustion chamber and the engine will last longer.
On the 7hp and 8hp Kohler K-series and Magnum engines, with the Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetor, the hole in the high speed main jet for 100% gasoline measures exactly 3/64" (.046") in diameter. To convert these carburetors for use with E85, enlarge the high speed main jet and fuel inlet (float valve) holes with a 5/64" or #47 (.078") drill bit. NOTE: Drill the fuel inlet from the inside out (opposite flow of fuel) to prevent a burr that may cause the carburetor to leak fuel or flood out. For accuracy, use a small metal lathe to drill the hole bigger. The ignition timing will also need to be advanced to 24º BTDC so the engine will take full advantage and make maximum power of the slower burning, higher octane fuel. Then with the engine running at 3,600 RPM, adjust the high-speed fuel mixture needle valve so the engine runs smooth.
On the 10hp-16hp flathead single- and twin-cylinder Kohler K-series and Magnum engines with the older Carter/Kohler carburetors, the factory hole in the high speed main jet size for 100% gasoline measures exactly 1/16" (.0625") in diameter. To convert these carburetors for use with E85, enlarge the high speed main jet and fuel inlet (float valve) holes with a 3/32" or #42 (.094") drill bit. NOTE: Drill the fuel inlet from the inside out (opposite flow of fuel) to prevent a burr that may cause the carburetor to leak fuel or flood out. For accuracy, use a small metal lathe to drill the hole bigger. The ignition timing will also need to be advanced to 24º BTDC so the engine will make full advantage and make maximum power of the slower burning, higher octane fuel. Then with the engine running at 3,600 RPM, adjust the high-speed air/fuel mixture needle valve until the engine runs smoothly.
To convert virtually any 4-cycle engine to run well and produce full power on E85 fuel...
When advancing the ignition timing past
24º± BTDC, and if the camshaft has a working automatic compression
release mechanism, the compression release will need to be disabled (tied
down) with a nylon zip tie or baling wire, or removed entirely. The reason
being, with the excessive advanced timing, the compression release will open
the exhaust valve when spark occurs, and the engine will pop out the exhaust,
not be able to start, or be hard to start. Without a compression release,
to make the engine easier to crank over and start under full compression,
a high torque starter motor with separate starter and ignition switches will
need to be used to prevent engine "kick back." If the engine
"kicks back" too many times when attempting to start it, this could bend
or break the starter motor armature shaft, or break the aluminum
casing!
The Advantages of Using 100% Methanol Fuel -
If the carburetor have been reworked and the ignition timing are adjusted and set correctly, methanol can produce up to 13% increase in horsepower. If the fuel is set slightly rich (which it should be), there's no need to constantly adjust the carburetor settings and/or ignition timing to compensate for changes in hot or cold weather conditions. Because of its low volatile octane rating (ability to burn quick), methanol shouldn't be used for general yard use. It's primarily a high performance fuel only, and should be used only in a high performance engine. Starting fluid (ether) or gasoline may need to be sprayed or squirted into the carburetor to get the engine started in cooler weather, though. And, faster gearing may be needed because of the increase in horsepower and torque.
It may take some experimentation to get a particular tractor to perform on methanol. Just because most experienced pullers get their tractors hooked-up good on it is no reason anyone else can't. Once one do get their tractor to perform on methanol, they'll be reluctant to go back to gas. By the way - methanol can be purchased at most places that sell racing fuels. And it cost less than 1/3 of racing gas fuels (per gallon).
Using Methanol in a Garden Pulling Tractor -
Methanol, also known as wood alcohol, is made primary from natural gas. And is the best high performance fuel available. Far better than any expensive "racing" petroleum fuel. It'll help any 4-stroke high performance engine produce more power and run much cooler. Methanol is a safe fuel to use, too. But if anyone feels uncomfortable using or converting an engine for use of methanol, please consult with a professional engine builder.
Methanol will mix equally with water and it evaporates quickly. The important thing to remember when storing methanol is the keep it in an air tight container in a dry place. Because it can easily draw moisture when stored for a long period, especially in a metal container. (Unlike plastic, steel gets cold, which draws condensation.) If one suspects that water had gotten into the methanol, it can be separated easily by using chamois leather. The chamois will absorb the water and allow the methanol to pass through. If gas has 10% alcohol, then the alcohol will mix the water with the gas and it will appear to have no water at all. The only way to separate the water from the gas and alcohol is through a chamois. Again, the chamois will absorb the water and allow the fuels to drain through.
If your club's sanctioning rules say that the methanol fuel must be able to pass a water test, then just use 100% pure methanol with no oil. (To some clubs, oil is also known as a "contaminant.") Pure methanol will remain clear in water, but turn cloudy in water when mixed with oil. And it's important that the main fuel mixture on the carburetor be richened slightly, to keep from burning the piston (because of the lack of oil in the fuel).
Methanol has absolutely no effect on rubber, neoprene rubber or OEM carburetor or fuel system parts nor does it get stale like gas does. (Don't just theorize about such things, believe in myths, rumors or what some [delusional] people/mechanics/technicians tell you. Perform a scientific test to prove to yourself and debunk the myths. I always do.) But methanol will corrode aluminum as plain water does if it is not drained and allowed to evaporate from the fuel system over an extended length of time. After the methanol is drained and flushed out of the fuel system, motor oil should be applied to the metal parts to protect the surfaces from oxidation.
Because methanol will ignite only in a narrow range of high temperatures, it is less likely to catch on fire should an accident occur. If methanol does catch on fire, unlike gasoline, water can extinguish the flames.
Methanol burns much slower than the highest octane gasoline. (It has about 135 octane rating.) Therefore, the ignition timing must be advanced more than for gas when burning methanol. If the timing isn't advanced enough, some of the methanol will go unburned and little will be gained. Modifications to the point lobe on the camshaft may need to be made in order to achieve the full ignition timing setting. Methanol also requires a hotter spark. Therefore, a high-output/performance ignition coil is needed, along with a wide spark plug gap (.060"). NOTE - Never run over-advanced ignition timing with any petroleum-based fuel (gas) just to try to get "more power." All that does is seriously overheat the engine and could weaken (collapse) the piston rings, shrink the piston, warp the cylinder head and exhaust valve and it could even cause the engine block to crack.
As methanol burns, it produces tremendous combustion chamber pressures under
wide-open throttle conditions, especially in engines that's been ported,
with oversized valves and a big cam, and even more so during cooler weather.
To prevent possible cylinder/crankcase separation or an "engine explosion,"
the cylinder must be securely "strapped" or fastened to the crankcase. Especially
on 12hp engines and up. So strap it now, or scrap it later! Methanol
works best in a high compression engine, too.
"Strapping" the cylinder to the crankcase is when a flat piece of heavy steel or aluminum is across the cylinder head and fastened by means of two minimum 1/2" diameter threaded rods, one located just behind the flywheel and the other on the PTO end of the block. It keeps the cylinder from literately breaking loose from the crankcase because of a thin cylinder wall and/or due to extremely high compression.
Moreover, if you had a 10hp block bored for a 12hp piston, or a 12hp block bored for a 14hp piston, and you use your tractor to push snow, definitely strap the cylinder to the crankcase! Because it now has a much thinner cylinder wall, and the cold winter air is more dense (like the air is thicker or there's more of it). Dense air will build up the compression pressure within the combustion chamber, causing the engine to produce more power. But what also happens is at full throttle, this high compression is pushing upward on the cylinder head, and pulling upward on the cylinder wall. And sometimes the cylinder wall will break, ruining the whole engine. I know, I've seen this happen to a good engine. No joke.
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contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia,
MO 65203-9136 USA | Phone:
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A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public, including weekends. Please call
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Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
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Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest.
Click here for more parts and
services. | NOTE: To place an order, please call or send an
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Cylinder Restraint Strap Kit for Kohler 10-16hp K-series and Magnum Engines. Professionally made. This setup is easy to remove and reinstall when it comes time to freshen the engine. It looks nice and very strong. Prevents cylinder/crankcase separation (engine explosion) during cool weather when cylinder is bored thin for an excessively oversize piston. A must for methanol burning engines. NOTE: An additional 3/8" threaded hole may need to be made for mounting of brace on PTO end of block.
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Methanol fuel produces a "cooling effect" as it enters an engine at high velocity (wide open throttle). And, it's a clean burning fuel, it won't carbon up the combustion chamber, foul-out the spark plug or even harm the ozone layer. The crankcase motor oil may need to be changed periodically though.
Here's another thing concerning methanol fuel - when methanol evaporates, it leaves behind very small particles of white, flaky residue deposits in the entire fuel system, which is completely normal and unavoidable. These deposits can clog and ruin a good fuel filter, but will not harm any other parts of the fuel system or the engine. So to keep from having any [future] fuel flow problems and help prevent from losing a good pull, don't install a fuel filter in the system to trap any dirt/debris, because it will also trap the white, flaky residue deposits! Instead, strain the fuel through a filtering material, such as a coffee filter, paint filter, fine mesh screen wire, clean cloth shop towel or a fine woven fabric window curtain, while it's poured into the fuel tank. Place the filtering material in a large funnel, and pour the fuel through it into the tank. The filtering material should be thoroughly cleaned for use next time. But first, make sure the fuel tank and the rest of the fuel system is perfectly clean, and kept clean! And if there are any very small particles of dirt/debris present in the fuel, they should pass through the carburetor, being the fuel passages have been enlarged for the methanol.
Fuel filters can only filter so much of a grain of dirt/debris/grit. Anything smaller will pass through, most of time causing no harm. Sometimes a hair will pass through a wire mesh fuel filter, lodging in the float valve, keeping it from fully closing because the hair can't get past the bend. It'll cause the carburetor to over-flow and flood in a short time if the fuel tank is higher than the carburetor (gravity feed system). On certain small engines, the flooding gas will seep down into the motor oil, ruining it. Briggs & Stratton riding mower engines are notorious for this. All that can be done to fix this is clean out the carburetor and hope it doesn't happen again, or take the time to filter the gas before it's poured in the tank. And if there's enough fresh gas in the crankcase, sometimes the crankcase will explode if the engine backfires through the carburetor. If the crankcase breather is connected to the carburetor or air cleaner assembly, the flame from the backfire will travel through the breather cover and into the crankcase. (I've also seen this happen a few times.)
Most garden tractor carburetors can be easily converted for methanol use. The main thing to keep in mind is that methanol requires about twice the volume of fuel than gas. (Approximately a 5-6:1 ratio for methanol versus 10-12:1 ratio for gas). To run methanol, the high speed main jet and fuel inlet (float valve) holes will need to be enlarged to about 95% of their original size.
High compression engines naturally operate at a higher operating temperature. When using low octane gasoline (Regular Unleaded or 87 octane rating) in a high compression engine, the octane of the gas is reduced by 1 point for every 10º above the normal operating combustion chamber temperature that it is formulated for. This will cause the gas to burn faster. When trying to restart a high compression overheated engine on low octane gas, what is happening is the gas is burning quickly and entirely in the combustion chamber, and producing expanding heat before the piston reaches TDC, driving the piston back down in the cylinder before it reaches TDC. This is the cause of detonation (pounding of the piston) and it'll cause the engine to "grunt" or momentarily make the crankshaft rotate in the opposite direction (but the weight of the flywheel prevents this from happening). Overheating could also crack the [cast iron] cylinder, shrink the piston, burn a hole in the piston (detonation) and weaken the expansion of the piston rings. Methanol fuel has an octane rating of 135. This is why methanol works best in a high performance, high compression engine.
White deposits on the exhaust valve and in the combustion chamber is normal with gas fuels. Due to the lesser amount of gas in E-85, it leaves behind very little deposits, and methanol doesn't leave any deposits because there's no carbon in the fuel. Only fossil fuels have carbon in them and that's what's left behind in the combustion chamber and on the exhaust valve.
Did you know that high octane gas or "race car gas" (approximately 109-110 octane) is much better than any filling station pump gas when used in a high performance engine? Higher octane gas burns slow, producing more heat, thus allowing an engine to develop more power. Because heat is how an engine produces power. Methanol fuel produces even more heat than gas does.
Methanol never gets stale while setting around. It's burning factors (the qualities that produce power) remain intact until all of the fuel evaporates. Gasoline on the other hand, as it gets old or stale, it's burning factors is the first thing to go. Unlike methanol, eventually all that is left of the old gas is some "foul smelling residue." Methanol never smells "old" or "stale."
If the air/fuel ratio isn't properly adjusted with both methanol or gasoline, possible engine damage may result. If either fuel is leaned-out too much, possible piston to cylinder wall scuffing, scoring or even seizure may result. If methanol is ran too rich, the oil on the cylinder wall may be diluted, causing excessive wear to the piston, rings and sometimes the cylinder wall. And if gas is ran too rich, loss in power may result with possible spark plug fouling. (Methanol is more forgiving to an engine than gas.)
A high performance cam, larger piston, big valves and a bigger carburetor will undoubtedly help gas-burning engines develop more power. But only from the use of the parts themselves. Methanol on the other hand, will help give an engine a little more boost. Simply from the fuel itself.
Engines will consume less fuel burning gas than methanol. Something good for gas and not for methanol. Which is why methanol is not used on the open market in daily driven automobiles.
Some racing gasolines could eventually cause an engine to wear prematurely when used under high performance conditions (and if the ignition timing is over-advanced). Piston wear, piston ring expansion failure, valve warping, even motor oil breakdown could result over time due to the high operating temperatures of gas in a high compression engine. (Especially on air cooled engines with no cooling system.)
An engine runs cooler burning methanol than gas. The reason why? Approximately twice the amount of methanol fuel enters an engine. There's more fuel per parts of air. As a result, this allows an engine to operate at a much cooler temperature. Gasoline on the other hand, runs less fuel per parts of air. Therefore, it's a "lean" burning fuel. Gas allows a high-compression engine to operate at a higher temperature. Which in turn could cause premature engine wear. Simply because too much heat itself will cause a good engine to wear out faster than anything else.
For more information on methanol, click here: Erowid Alcohol Vault : Methanol Material Safety Data Sheet and Race fuel - Alcohol fuels.
100% ethanol (AKA moonshine) and denatured alcohol burns pretty much the same as 100% methanol. There's very little difference between these alcohol fuels. If an engine is converted correctly for use with these fuels, it will produce the same amount of power, run cooler and last longer.
By the way - If you've ever wondered if moonshine runners burned moonshine in their cars, well, they probably didn't. Because first of all, they needed to make money off the moonshine that they made. And second, the engine would need to be converted and car modified for use with 100% pure alcohol so it would burn thoroughly and it wouldn't cause harm to the engine at higher RPM. This means the fuel inlet hole and high speed main jets in the carburetor would need to be drilled twice their original size, a bigger fuel line would need to be installed for more fuel flow, a bigger electric fuel pump would also need to be installed to pump twice the volume of fuel from the tank to the carburetor, a high-secondary voltage ignition system would need to be installed with wider spark plug gaps, and the ignition timing would need to be advanced to 38º BTDC to thoroughly burn the alcohol. And after all this, the car would burn TWICE as much fuel resulting in VERY poor mileage. And they couldn't stop and fill up along the way with more moonshine while the cops were on their tail! (Gasoline would be a lot more economical!)
On the K90, K141, K160, K161, K181/M8 Kohler K-series and Magnum engines, with the Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetor, the hole in the high speed main jet size for 100% gasoline measures exactly 3/64" (.046") in diameter. To convert these carburetors for use with methanol, enlarge the high speed main jet and fuel inlet (float valve) holes with a 3/32" (.094") diameter drill bit. NOTE: Drill through the fuel inlet hole from inside out (opposite flow of fuel) to prevent a burr that may prevent the float valve from sealing, which could cause the carburetor to leak fuel or flood. The ignition timing will also need to be advanced to 30º BTDC so the engine will take full advantage and make maximum power of the slower burning, higher octane fuel. Then with the engine running at 3,600± RPM, adjust the high-speed fuel mixture needle valve so the engine runs smooth.
On the 10hp-16hp single- and twin-cylinder Kohler K-series and Magnum engines Carter/Kohler carburetors with the fully adjustable high speed high speed main jet, the factory hole in the high speed main jet size for 100% gasoline measures exactly 1/16" (.0625") in diameter. To convert these carburetors for use with methanol, enlarge the hole in the fuel inlet (float valve) with a 7/64" (.109") drill bit, and then enlarge the bottom hole in the high speed main jet/nozzle with a #32 or 3mm drill bit. NOTE: Drill through the fuel inlet hole from inside out (opposite flow of fuel) to prevent a burr that may prevent the float valve from sealing, which could cause the carburetor to leak fuel or flood. The ignition timing will also need to be advanced to 30º BTDC so the engine will take full advantage and make maximum power of the slower burning, higher octane fuel. Then if it's a stock engine, with the engine running at 3,600± RPM, adjust the high-speed air/fuel mixture needle valve until the engine runs smoothly.
To convert virtually any 4-cycle engine to run well and produce full power on 100% methanol or denatured alcohol fuels...
When advancing the ignition timing past
24º± BTDC, and if the camshaft has an automatic compression release,
it will need to be removed because the spark will occur when the exhaust
valve opens slightly to relieve some of the compression, possibly preventing
the engine from starting or making it hard to start. And to make the engine
easier to crank over easier and start under full compression, a high torque
starter motor with separate starter and ignition switches to prevent "kick
back" will need to be used.
Testing Methanol Fuel for Contaminants -
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It's a good idea to use a small amount of special upper cylinder
lubricant (such as
Lucas Oil Upper Cylinder Lubrication,
M2 Upper Lube & Lead Additive,
Marvel Mystery Oil, etc.) mixed with methanol to prevent
possible piston-to-cylinder scoring and to help lubricate the valve stems
and guides. If a lubricant isn't used and if methanol is ran too lean (especially
in cool weather), this could ruin a good high-dollar piston and possibly
score the cylinder wall. Methanol must be ran rich if no lubricant is mixed
with it. But some sanctioning pulling rules (such as the
NQS
Pulling Series) don't allow lubricant to be mixed with methanol because
it boosts the octane and will likely fail in a fuel test, which means the
tractor will be disqualified after competing. The more oil that is added,
the higher the octane will be.
When pulling under rules that require 100% methanol fuel, and if a tractor have been using methanol with a lubricant, be sure to completely drain and flush the entire fuel system. Use [150± psi] compressed air to clear out the fuel tank, fuel hose, fuel pump, carburetor, etc. Because any trace amount of lubricant remaining will mix with the methanol and be cause for failure in a fuel test. Some new neoprene rubber fuel hoses contains oil. This means if 100% methanol is supposed to be used, the fuel hose must be flushed with a solvent (paint thinner), then use [150± psi] compressed air to clear it out, and then allow it to thoroughly air-dry. Methanol by itself is clear, like water. To test it for an added lubricant, pour a small amount of methanol in a clean, clear capped glass container with a small amount of oil, then shake it. If it appears "cloudy," it's contaminated. You can also smell methanol for contaminants. The Fuel Rule for the 2013 NQS Classes Are As Follows: All tractors in all classes are to run methanol, with no additives (except for diesel fueled tractors). There are two U.S. Federal Grades. Grade A and AA. Either grade is permitted to use. Pullers should ensure that the methanol they purchase meets federal standards of purity. Methanol is tested at all NQS events by various chemical analyses as considered appropriate by the NQS Fuel Tech personnel. Deviation from the standards listed below in the fuel sample will result in disqualification. Methanol is a hygroscopic substance and readily absorbs moisture from the air, which rapidly renders methanol illegal as a fuel for use in NQS pulling. Pullers are cautioned to keep methanol containers tightly sealed at all times to minimize the absorption of water. |
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I remember when gasoline for various automotive engines were for the
following compression ratios: Anything up to 9.25:1, it was safe to use
Regular
gasoline (low octane); between 9.25:1-10.50:1 required
Premium
or
High Test
gasoline
(mid octane); and anything above 10.50:1 required
Ethyl
gasoline (high octane). Until the late 1960s, most Chevrolet small block
muscle car engines had a compression ratio as high as 11.25:1, and certain
Chevrolet 427 big block muscle car engines had a compression ratio as high
as 14:1! (That was the good ol' days!) I'd also like to share this old gas
station joke:
Car owner that just pulled up to the pump: "Fill 'er up... Ethyl!"
Gas
station attendant: "I'll fill up your car, but don't call me Ethel."
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Using a Gravity Feed Fuel Flow System -
When burning gas only (not methanol) and if an engine is going to turn no faster than 4,000± RPM (governed limit; the factory setting of maximum RPM for virtually all small gas engines, including all of Kohler engines is 3,600), then a gravity feed fuel system with the fuel tank positioned higher than the carburetor, stock fuel fittings and fuel hose should work fine. (Gravity feed is defined as when the fuel is drawn by gravity; the lowest part of the fuel tank is positioned higher than the carburetor, and there's no fuel pump involved.) If the fuel tank sets higher than the carburetor, and if a large inside diameter fuel hose and fittings are used, and if the float level is set a little high, then a gravity feed fuel system should work great for a stock engine turning no more than 4,000 RPM.
Information About the Pulse-Type Fuel Pump -
All pulse-type fuel pumps operate
off of the crankcase air pressure. The moving piston(s) inside the crankcase
of the engine create the pulsating effect of air to activate the pump's
diaphragm. And all pulse-type fuel pumps come with three fittings - one that
connects to the crankcase of the engine block and an IN and OUT fuel hose
fittings. It should say on the body of the pump where each fitting connects
to. But if it doesn't, then the fitting coming from the center of the pump
connects to the crankcase vent. And the other two fittings, one connect to
the fuel tank and the other connects to the carburetor.
A pulse-type, mechanical or electric fuel pump will guarantee that the carburetor will not starve for fuel about halfway down the track. Also, carefully enlarge the fuel inlet valve seat hole to 7/64" (.109"). This will allow more delivery of fuel in the float bowl so the engine will not starve for fuel halfway down the track. Be sure to set the float a little high too, so as it drops down, the fuel inlet valve will open more, allowing more fuel to be deposited in the float bowl.
If an engine in an ATV or UTV sputters and/or dies after going over rough terrain, this could be caused by a defective pulse-type fuel pump. Overtime, the fuel pump bodies become warped and oil in the crankcase is preventing air from working the diaphragm the way it should. If the engine has a 12 volt electrical system with a charging system, it'll be better to install a low pressure electric fuel pump. These rarely give trouble.
To test a plastic body pulse-type fuel pump, first check that the fuel hose between the fuel tank and fuel pump is open and unobstructed, or if it has dry-rot cracks, which can cause a vacuum leak. To test it, disconnect the fuel hose from the fuel pump and wrap a shop/business towel or clean rag around an air blower nozzle and then insert the nozzle with the rag or towel in the fuel tank filler neck. Apply light air pressure in the tank. If fuel comes out of the fuel hose, then it's open. After that, reconnect the fuel hose to the fuel pump. To test the fuel pump itself, first check the hose that connects the fuel pump to the engine crankcase to see if it has a kink in it or if it has dry-rot cracks, which can also cause a vacuum leak. If it's in good condition, then the final step is to disconnect the fuel hose from the carburetor and with adequate amount of fuel in the fuel tank, crank the engine and at the same time observe how much fuel is being pumped out of the pump. If there seems to be adequate amount of fuel coming from it, hold your finger over the end of the line and while still cranking the engine, it should build up a small amount of pressure. If none or very little fuel comes out of the pump, then it's bad and needs replacing.
When a pulse-type fuel pump fails to pump fuel, in most cases, the body of the fuel pump will become warped, causing a vacuum leak either from within or from the outside, preventing the diaphragm from pulsating. If the diaphragm is still flexible, chances are, the pump can be repaired by resurfacing the body halves on a flat sanding belt or disc sander until they're perfectly flat again.
Troubleshooting a Faulty Pulse-Type or Mechanical Fuel Pump -
If an engine sits for about one week or longer, if the fuel in the carburetor evaporates and it's hard to start, or fuel must be squirted into the carburetor to get the engine started, then this means that the pulse-type or mechanical fuel pump may be bad. The inlet valve in the pump is leaking, which is allowing the fuel to drain back into the fuel tank with the engine off. As the pump tries to syphon fuel from the tank to refill the carburetor, it's unable because the inlet valve is bad. Solution: a new fuel pump will need to be installed. When a vacuum or mechanical fuel pump quits working, below are the causes:
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If the bottom of the fuel tank is lower than the carburetor, then the engine definitely needs a fuel pump. If the engine didn't originally come with a fuel pump, and has no provision for a mechanical fuel pump and/or no 12 volt power output/supply to use an electric fuel pump, here's how to install a universal pulse-type fuel pump on virtually any small gas engine:
Locate a place that's easily
accessible on the engine crankcase, intake manifold or valve cover (OHV engines),
or use the mechanical fuel pump block-off plate (if equipped) to install
an 1/8" NPT threads x 1/4" barbed end [fuel] fitting to serve as the vacuum-pulse
port. Make sure the fitting won't interfere with anything inside. Don't
install the fitting in the crankcase breather cover on a flathead engine.
It don't hold crankcase vacuum. The plate behind it does.
(with a small amount
of oil in the hose, too) created by the movement of the piston(s) that will
be activating the diaphragm within the pump.
What Exactly Is "Vapor Lock"?
Vapor lock only happens with certain older carbureted cars and trucks with a mechanical fuel pump that's fastened to the engine block. Vapor lock occurs when the [metal] gas line is too close to the hot exhaust, and when the vehicle is in slow traffic, the fuel is moving very slow in the line. Due to extreme heat from the exhaust and on a hot day, and the fan blade not blowing that much air past the exhaust, sometimes the heat will cause the gas to boil, forming air bubbles or air pockets, and the fuel vaporizes, and then the fuel pump can't pump vaporized fuel (air). So as soon as the carburetor runs out of fuel, the engine stalls. The fuel pump will "lock" with vapors trapped inside it. When the vehicle cools, incoming gas will force the air out of the fuel pump and through the carburetor, allowing the fuel to return to the pump, and then the engine will start and run again. This don't happen nowadays with automobiles having fuel injection because the entire fuel hose is pressurized.
But on lawn tractors or garden tractors, the fuel hose is located nowhere near the hot exhaust. What is really happening when the engine stalls, is either the fuel system is dirty, the ignition coil is bad, or there's insufficient valve to lifter clearance.
Using a Mechanical Fuel Pump -
When running a pulling engine at high RPM or wide open throttle, sometimes the engine will starve for fuel with gravity feed fuel system. Therefore, Kohler's camshaft-driven mechanical fuel pump or a low-pressure electric fuel pump should be used to guarantee that the carburetor will receive plenty of fuel at all times. The mechanical pump should be used on a pulling tractor when burning gas only. They're not capable of delivering sufficient amount of fuel with E85 or methanol at high RPM like an electric pump will.
Mechanical plastic and metal body fuel pumps are very durable
and they work pretty well, for both yard machines and stock competitive pulling
with gas. The diaphragm or gaskets rarely go bad in the mechanical fuel pump.
It's usually one or both of the poppet valves that goes bad. They can become
dislodged, or rusted or corroded from long term water contamination. If the
poppet valves are in good condition and snug in their counterbores, but if
the pump doesn't pump fuel, then in most cases, the fuel pump body halves
become warped, creating a vacuum leak at the diaphragm. The pump body halves
can be resurfaced on a flat
sanding belt or disc sander to remove warpage and restore
flatness, and then after reassembly, the pump should work as good as new.
(I use the side of the cutting wheel on my
14" chop saw. Works great! Be sure to use eye protection!)
Be sure to use a
deburring tool after resurfacing to get rid of any sharp
edges, and thoroughly clean all parts with [150± psi] compressed air
before reassembly! If this doesn't fix the problem, then perhaps a new or
used reconditioned pump will need to be acquired.
To test the fuel pump for fuel flow off the engine, submerge the inlet port in a container of clean (filtered) cleaning solvent (paint thinner) and then work the lever quickly by hand. The solvent should squirt forcibly out the outlet port. If the pump doesn't start pumping right away, submerge the entire fuel pump in the solvent and work the lever to prime it and remove the air internally. After checking to see how well it works, to test the psi, a low-pressure gauge can be connected to the outlet port. The pressure should be 1-½ to 2 psi. To increase the pressure to about 2-½ psi (maximum), disassemble the pump and physically stretch the diaphragm pressure spring until it's about 3/4" longer than original length. To increase the volume (more fuel flow), the stroke of the fuel pump lobe on the camshaft would need to be lengthened approximately 1/8" by welding it up on the high side and reground deeper on the low side. Or better yet, use an electric fuel pump.
The only problem when using a gasket to fasten the fuel pump to the block is, being the mounting flange is so thin, it will warp over time, causing an oil leak. (This happens to every pump I've seen.) To fix this, and to [possibly] prevent an oil leak in the future, completely disassemble the pump, remove the lever and arm (be careful not to lose the spring) and use a flat sanding belt or disc sander to resurface the mounting flange on a flat sanding belt or disc sander to remove warpage and restore flatness. The trick to reinstalling the spring is, reinstall the arm, lever and support pin in the pump body first, then install the spring with a small, flat screwdriver. (The pumps with the manual fuel primer lever is harder to reassemble.) To keep the flange from warping again, fasten it directly to the block using only Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant and use no gasket, or use a very thin gasket. Finally, install a flat washer (and of course, a split lock washer) under each mounting screw head to distribute even pressure on the flange and to prevent the screws from loosening. By the way - I've always preferred to use Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant for three reasons: Gaskets don't always seal the irregularities and imperfections between mating metals, especially thin metal covers; being it's an adhesive, it bonds parts together, forming a leak-proof seal; and being it's clear, it makes for a clean and professional-looking repair job. When applied sparingly, it can't be seen between the parts.
The purpose of Kohler's older
and now obsolete mechanical fuel pump with the hand lever (thin metal
piece that hangs down under the pump body) is for when the engine runs out
of fuel, after refilling the fuel tank, it takes less time to manually prime
the fuel pump with the lever by hand to refill the carburetor than it would
to crank the engine so the fuel pump can draw fuel from the tank and deliver
it to the carburetor. This was a nice feature, especially on engines with
a rope or rewind starter! It also saved wear and tear on the starter motor
from cranking for a long time, which could burn up the starter or run down
the battery.
FYI - All of Kohler's 10-16hp
flatheads and the OHV 18hp engines come with a lobe on the cam to activate
the mechanical fuel pump. The fuel pump installs with the lever positioned
upwards. And if there's no provision for mounting a mechanical fuel pump,
a 3/4" center hole and two small threaded bolt holes will need to be drilled,
and the mounting holes tapped for 1/4-20 UNC threads. Use a fuel pump mounting
gasket as a templet.
Advertisement:
| If you need any of the parts or services listed below
Ê, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am
to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When
speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's
shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends (except Holidays).
Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. NOTE: To place
an order, please call either number above or send an email with a list and
description of the parts or services you need. Because as of right now, my
websites are not set up to accept orders online. |
|
Plastic Body Pulse-Type
Fuel Pump. Operates off engine crankcase vacuum. Can be used on and fits
many makes and models of various small engines. Use for general yard and
garden work or a 4,000± RPM stock pulling engine. Non-serviceable. Replaces
Briggs & Stratton part # 808656.
|
All-Metal Body Pulse-Type
Fuel Pump. Operates off engine crankcase vacuum. Can be used on and fits
many makes and models of various small engines. Use for general yard and
garden work or a 4,000± RPM stock pulling engine. Replaces Briggs &
Stratton part # 808656.
|
 Mechanical fuel
pumps for Kohler K90 (3.6hp), K91 (4hp), K141 (6¼hp), K160 (6.6hp),
K161 (7hp) and K181/M8 (8hp) K-series and Magnum (flathead) single cylinder
cast iron block engines. Use the supplied snap ring to press the tabs in
the fittings to install and rotate them. New pumps for thread-in fittings
and/or with primer lever no longer available.
L Kohler part # 41 559 05-S.
|
|
 Plastic Body
Mechanical fuel pumps for Kohler engine models K241/M10 (10hp), K301/M12
(12hp), K330/K331 (12½hp), K321/M14 (14hp), K341/M16 (16hp), K361 (18hp
OHV) and K660/K662 (23hp). Use the supplied snap ring to press the tabs in
the fittings to install and rotate them. Kohler part #'s 47 559 10-S, 47
559 11-S (most common).
|
|
  Metal Body Mechanical fuel pumps for Kohler engine models K241/M10
(10hp), K301/M12 (12hp), K330/K331 (12½hp), K321/M14 (14hp), K341/M16
(16hp), K361 (18hp OHV) and K660/K662 (23hp).
|
|
 Mechanical fuel
pumps for Kohler models KT17, KT17II, KT19, KT19II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20
and MV20 Magnum series opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engines. Use the
supplied snap ring to press the tabs in the fittings to install and rotate
them. New pumps for thread-in fittings no longer available.
L Kohler part # 52 559 03-S.
|
|
 Mechanical fuel
pumps for Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582 opposed (flathead) twin
cylinder engines. Use the supplied snap ring to press the tabs in the fittings
to install and rotate them. New pumps for thread-in fittings no longer
available. L Kohler part # 48 559 05-S.
|
|
Fuel Pump Mounting
Gasket. Fits all models of Kohler engines with a camshaft-operated fuel pump.
Approximately 1/32" thick.
|
Heat Isolator
Fuel Pump Mounting Gasket. Fits all models of Kohler engines with
a camshaft-operated fuel pump. Manufactured of heat-resistant
phenolic resin. This particular gasket prevents crankcase heat
from being transferred to the fuel pump. Along with the
heat isolator carburetor mounting
gasket, the cooler fuel
atomizes
better before entering the combustion chamber to improve engine performance.
Ideal for heavy yard/garden work and/or stock competitive
pulling. OEM Kohler part # 277649-S.
|
 Fuel Pump Hole
Block-Off Plates. Install for gravity fuel feed or when using an
electric fuel pump.
|
|
 Mounting screws
for fuel pumps and block-off plates above
È. 1/4-20 UNC threads x 3/4" thread
length. Phillips head. Comes with split lock washer.
|
|
  Low Pressure
12 Volt Electric Fuel Pump Kits. Small
and compact. Replace faulty pulse-type or mechanical fuel pump (with a
deteriorated diaphragm that can seep gas into the crankcase, diluting the
oil, which can could severe internal engine damage), or upgrade to one of
these pumps for more fuel delivery. Each produces 2.5-4.5 psi @ 30 gph, and
is non-adjustable. Fuel regulator is not required, but may require one under
certain conditions. Use for general yard and garden work, or for garden tractor
pulling. Will work for most single- and twin-cylinder gas engines such as
Kohler, Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh, Wisconsin, etc., on virtually all
models of Cub Cadet, John Deere, Wheel Horse, Sears Suburban, Massey Ferguson,
and just about any lawn & garden equipment with a 12 volt electrical
system. These electric fuel pump kits come with fittings that accepts 1/4"
i.d. fuel hose, the same size that's on most Kohler and other makes and models
of engines. If it's a Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) engine, the fitting in the
carburetor would need to be changed to 1/4". If the engine has magneto or
solid state ignition, but no charging system, and only a 12 volt battery
is used to power the fuel pump, the battery will need to be recharged with
portable battery charger every now and then so the fuel pump will work at
peak efficiency. Alcohol resistant and very durable. For stock engines or
engines running at high RPM or wide open throttle. Suitable for small gas
engines up to 4 cylinder carbureted engines. Instant fuel prime to the carburetor
as soon as pump is powered up. Ideal when equipment runs out of gas and no
need to crank engine for a long time to refill carburetor to restart engine.
Saves on starter motor wear. Each operates on 12 volts DC. Rather than a
motor or diaphragm, these solenoid pumps use a piston actuated by an
electromagnetic coil to generate fuel pressure and flow. By using only short
pulses of electricity, this pump is very efficient. IMPORTANT: For winter-time
or long-term storage, drain and flush out all fuel, leave fuel hoses disconnected
so entire fuel system can "air dry," and apply WD-40 or light oil in the
fuel pump to prevent oxidation, which could cause the moving parts to "freeze
up" or stick. For a pulling tractor, if methanol fuel is subject to a water-test,
don't add WD-40 or oil in the pump. Just drain and flush out all fuel, use
compressed air to remove any remaining fuel from the pump, and store the
tractor in a cool, dry environment. Wire Connections: The BLACK
wire connects to negative (–) ground (tractor chassis or frame), and
the RED wire connects to the positive
(+) battery post or a terminal on the ignition switch that connects to the
positive (+) battery post. If the wires are connected in reverse, the fuel
pump will pump fuel in the opposite direction. It will not harm the pump.
And the filter connects on the side closest to the fuel tank to help keep
the inside of the pump clean so it will last longer.
NOTE: Electric fuel pumps listed here comes with a one year warranty. Install the inline fuel filter before the pump (inlet port) to prevent any debris from becoming lodged in the pumping mechanism. If there is debris lodged, it may be removed with 150 psi compressed air when applied in the reverse direction of fuel flow. If the pump still won't work right after clearing it out, please remove the fittings, return the pump and I'll send you another new fuel pump without the hardware and fittings. Click here for electric fuel pump installation diagram. Return To Previous Paragraph or Section
|
|
When to Use an Electric Fuel Pump -
When
burning E85 or methanol fuels, more fuel volume (increase in flow) is required
and a low pressure electric fuel pump
should be used. The carburetor on most garden tractor engines don't require
a lot of fuel pressure. One nice thing about electric fuel pumps besides
they're very reliable, is that they're self-priming. Meaning when an engine
runs out of fuel, there's less risk of burning up the starter motor from
excessive cranking for a vacuum or mechanical pump to pump gas to the carburetor.
As soon as the ignition is turned on (if the electric pump is wired in with
the ignition circuit), the electric pump immediately puts gas to the carburetor.
Most electric fuel pumps are compact, vibration-proof (has solid state dependability), self-priming, easy to install and connect the wiring. They work with either gas, E85 or methanol fuels, won't flood the carburetor, draw very little amperage from the battery, and they cost less than most OEM electric fuel pumps. They're perfect for garden tractors having either a single- or two-cylinder engine.
An electric fuel pump that's made
for an import car/truck produce more flow than any of Kohler's mechanical
pumps, and in most cases, they don't produce not enough pressure to flood
the carburetor. With some high-pressure electric fuel pumps however, an
adjustable fuel pressure regulator with a fuel gauge may need to be used
in-line. Install a "T" in the fuel hose and connect the gauge between the
fuel pump or fuel regulator and carburetor. To begin with, set the regulator
at about 2-1/2 p.s.i. Make the final adjustment on the fuel pressure at high
RPM or wide open throttle, hooked to the sled, while going down the track.
Use a quality fuel pressure gauge that can withstand the vibration of a garden
pulling tractor to monitor the pressure. A low pressure gauge can be purchased
off of
eBay.
Another good thing about an electric fuel pump verses a mechanical pump (if the mechanical pump doesn't have a primer lever, which must be primed manually) is if an engine runs out of fuel, the engine will not have to be cranked for a long time to get the fuel pumped up to the carburetor, which can be hard on an electric starter motor.
When connecting the wires for an electric fuel pump on the tractor with battery ignition, the pump should come with detailed instructions. But if there's no instructions, then connect one wire (usually black in color) to the chassis of the tractor (ground), and the other wire (usually red in color) to the ignition system. The wire going to the coil from the ignition switch is a good one to connect to. On a tractor with magneto ignition, use a separate OFF/ON toggle switch for the fuel pump.
How to Prepare an Electric Fuel Pump for Wintertime or Long-Term Storage -
If the equipment is equipped with an electric pump, for winter-time or long-term storage, drain and flush out all fuel, leave the fuel hoses disconnected so the entire fuel system can "air dry," and apply WD-40 or light in the fuel pump to prevent oxidation, which could cause the moving parts to "freeze up" or stick. For a pulling tractor, if methanol fuel is subject to a water-test, don't add WD-40 or oil in the pump. Just drain and flush out all fuel, use compressed air to remove any remaining fuel from the pump, and store the tractor in a cool, dry environment.
Advertisement:
| If you need your Carter/Kohler or Walbro carburetor rebuilt for daily
use or if you want your carburetor professionally reworked for high performance
use on a Stock, Hot-Stock, Stock-Altered or Pro-Stock pulling tractor, or
if you wish to purchase a rebuilt carburetor, please contact A-1 Miller's
Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136
USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313
(shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays),
9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When
speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's
shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends (except Holidays).
Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. Go here for more parts:
Carburetor, Fuel System Parts & Machine Shop
Services | NOTE: To place an order, please call or send an
email with a list and description of the parts or services you need. Because
as of right now, we're not set up to accept orders through our web
sites. |
FYI: I can professionally rebuild older vintage and antique carburetors virtually of any kind as well as newer ones, as long as replacement parts are available. I also have the capability to fabricate new throttle and choke shafts.
ü Bore venturi to a limit of 1" or .995" (NQS legal size), straight-through design (to match the diameter of throttle bore) or whatever your club's sanctioning rules allow. Read your rules carefully to make sure! I'll need a copy of your club's sanctioning rules regarding the legality of the carburetor, so when I rework it, it'll be legal for use in the class you plan to pull in.
All the carburetors we repair, rebuild or sell come with a 30 day workmanship
warranty and are guaranteed to be free of defects. Technical support comes
with part of the warranty. And remember - performance carburetors are like
women, it's what's on the inside that matters.
|
| Professionally Rebuilt and New Carburetors For Sale - NOTE: I set the air/fuel adjusters on all carburetors that I rebuild somewhat close so the engine will start and run, but because of the attitude, air temperature and engine design, you'll need to make the final adjustments. And the carburetors that I repair, rebuild or sell come with a 30 day workmanship warranty and are guaranteed to be free of defects. Technical support comes with part of the warranty. Other carburetor services listed further down in the web site. |
Carburetors for Kohler K-series K90 (3.6hp), K91 (4hp) flathead
cast iron block engines. These are plain, stock carburetors that's been
completely disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt. All fuel passageways
cleared, new parts and if necessary, a bushing and/or new throttle shaft
installed. No performance modifications are made to these carburetors whatsoever.
All carburetors that we repair, rebuild or sell come with a 30 day workmanship
warranty and are guaranteed to be free of defects. Technical support comes
with part of the warranty. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments
will be initially set on the carburetor to get the engine running, but due
to the altitude
(atmospheric
pressure) where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel
mixture adjustments will need to be made by the customer or an experienced
small engine mechanic/technician so the engine will run smooth. Carter carburetor
part # G-220517. NOTE: Not all carburetor numbers are listed with Kohler.
|
Carburetors for Kohler K-series and Magnum models K141 (6¼hp), K160
(6.6hp), K161 (7hp), K181/M8 (8hp) flathead cast iron block engines. These
are plain, stock carburetors that's been completely disassembled, thoroughly
cleaned and rebuilt. All fuel passageways cleared, new parts and if necessary,
a bushing and/or new throttle shaft installed. No performance modifications
are made to these carburetors whatsoever. All carburetors that we repair,
rebuild or sell come with a 30 day workmanship warranty and are guaranteed
to be free of defects. Technical support comes with part of the warranty.
The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be initially set on
the carburetor to get the engine running, but due to the altitude
(atmospheric
pressure) where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel
mixture adjustments will need to be made by the customer or an experienced
small engine mechanic/technician so the engine will run smooth. Carter carburetor
part #'s B-231739, C-231738, 41 053 01, 41 053 13, 41 053 18 or 41 053 20.
NOTE: Not all carburetor numbers are listed with Kohler.
|
Carburetors for Kohler K-series and Magnum models K241/M10 (10hp) and
K301/M12 (12hp) flathead cast iron block engines. These are plain, stock
carburetors that's been completely disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt.
All fuel passageways cleared, new parts and if necessary, a bushing and/or
new throttle shaft installed. No performance modifications made to these
carburetors whatsoever. Comes with choke plate installed. For gas or E85.
Please indicate if for a Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) engine with the
oblong-shaped air filter housing
housing, or for an engine with the
round air filter housing
housing. (The choke lever and air filter housing mounting holes are
different.) All carburetors that we repair, rebuild or sell come with a 30
day workmanship warranty and are guaranteed to be free of defects. Technical
support comes with part of the warranty. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture
adjustments will be initially set on the carburetor to get the engine running,
but due to the altitude
(atmospheric
pressure) where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel
mixture adjustments will need to be made by the customer or an experienced
small engine mechanic/technician so the engine will run smooth. Kohler carburetor
part #'s 47 053 07, 47 053 08, 47 053 12, 47 053 13, 47 053 14, 47 053 24,
47 053 29, 47 053 40, 47 053 62 or 47 053 80. NOTE: Not all carburetor numbers
are listed with Kohler.
|
Carburetors
for Kohler engine models K321/M14 and (14hp), K341/M16 (16hp) and K361 (18hp
OHV). These are plain, stock carburetors that's been completely disassembled,
thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt. All fuel passageways cleared, new parts and
if necessary, a bushing and/or new throttle shaft installed. No performance
modifications made to these carburetors whatsoever. Comes with choke plate
installed. For gas or E85. Please indicate if for a Kohler AQS (Quiet Line)
engine with the oblong-shaped
air filter housing housing, or for an engine with the
round air filter housing
housing. (The choke lever and air filter housing mounting holes are
different.) All carburetors that we repair, rebuild or sell come with a 30
day workmanship warranty and are guaranteed to be free of defects. Technical
support comes with part of the warranty. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture
adjustments will be initially set on the carburetor to get the engine running,
but due to the altitude
(atmospheric
pressure) where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel
mixture adjustments will need to be made by the customer or an experienced
small engine mechanic/technician so the engine will run smooth. Kohler carburetor
part #'s 45 053 08, 45 053 09, 45 053 12, 45 053 20, 45 053 26, 45 053 68,
45 053 70, 45 053 76, 45 053 77, 47 053 03, 47 053 09, 47 053 15, 47 053
16, 47 053 17, 47 053 20, 47 053 30, 47 053 35, 47 053 41, 47 053 63 or 47
053 78. NOTE: Not all carburetor numbers are listed with Kohler.
|
Carburetors for Kohler KT-series and Magnum models KT17, KT17II, KT19,
KT19II, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20 opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engines.
These are plain, stock carburetors that's been completely disassembled,
thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt. All fuel passageways cleared, new parts and
if necessary, a bushing and/or new throttle shaft installed. No performance
modifications made to these carburetors whatsoever. Comes with choke plate
installed. Set up for gas. When ordering, please specify the position
of the choke lever. All carburetors that we repair, rebuild or sell come
with a 30 day workmanship warranty and are guaranteed to be free of defects.
Technical support comes with part of the warranty. The idle speed and air/fuel
mixture adjustments will be initially set on the carburetor to get the engine
running, but due to the altitude
(atmospheric
pressure) where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel
mixture adjustments will need to be made by the customer or an experienced
small engine mechanic/technician so the engine will run smooth. Kohler carburetor
part #'s 52 053 09, 52 053 18 or 52 053 28. NOTE: Not all carburetor numbers
are listed with Kohler.
|
New carburetors, and throttle
and choke shafts for Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582 have been
discontinued by Kohler. Therefore, if the throttle and/or choke shafts and/or
shaft holes are worn in a K482, K532 or K582 carburetor, if the holes aren't
worn beyond for reuse, I use 1/4" cold rolled steel rod to make a new throttle
shaft. But if the holes are worn too, and being the metal is too thin on
one side for installation of a bushing, the shaft holes will need to be enlarged
a few thousandths bigger than 1/4", and a steel rod that's slightly bigger
than the enlarged holes (for a slip-fit) will need to be fabricated for use
as a throttle shaft. I then align and weld or braze the OEM throttle lever
to the new shaft. I also install a foam seal on the
throttle shaft and a thin, hardened steel thrust washer next to the throttle
plate to prevent it from wearing against the carburetor body. And I install
a new overhaul kit. I've performed this type of repair many times with excellent
results. I offer this repair service. If interested, I will need for you
to send me your carburetor. And for dimensional measurements, I will need
the complete carburetor with the throttle and choke shafts with the levers
and the throttle and choke plates. I will fabricate new shaft(s), and install
the lever(s) on the shaft(s), and install the throttle and/or choke plates
on the shafts in the carburetor. FYI - Bearing bronze is very hard, porous,
absorbs oil and lasts a long time when lubricated regularly and used as a
bushing. Brass, on the other hand, is soft, non-porous and wears quickly
when used as a load-bearing bushing or shaft.
Click here to learn how to
professionally remove Carter/Kohler throttle or choke plate soft brass retaining
screws without breaking them off. An innovative concept by Brian Miller,
because nobody else advertise this repair service.
|
 Rebuilt, reworked and modified
only for high performance use, #26 Carter/Kohler carburetors. These carburetors
have been internally modified to outperform a stock OEM carburetor under
heavy pulling load and will not run lean while going down the track. Will
pass tech with any club. The venturi in these carburetors can be bored so
they'll have either a 7/8", 1" or .995" (NQS legal) venturi or a 1.07"
straight-through throttle bore for high RPM operation, setup for gas, E85
or methanol fuels, whatever your club's sanctioning rules allow or whatever
you desire for all-out engine performance. These carburetors are completely
disassembled, then thoroughly cleaned. All fuel passageways cleared, new
parts and a new throttle shaft and/or bushing are installed if necessary.
The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be initially set on
the carburetor to get the engine running, but due to the altitude
(atmospheric
pressure) where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel
mixture adjustments will need to be made by the customer or an experienced
small engine mechanic/technician so the engine will run smooth.
NOTE: These carburetors are designed for use on Stock and Stock-Altered pulling engines with a stock size or an oversize intake valve. Also, a high performance carburetor is designed solely for a high performance engine. Just bolting on a high performance carburetor is not how to gain more power and torque for a stock engine. If your engine is not a high performance engine built to race specs, then it will not benefit from a high performance carburetor whatsoever. These carburetors will not allow a stock "factory-built engine" to produce lots of power just by bolting it it on. Everything in the engine MUST work together to prevent air restriction or a "bottleneck" to slow down air flow. With a bigger carburetor, the engine needs to breath A LOT more air in and out of the combustion chamber. This means the intake and exhaust ports will need to be made bigger, the valves reworked for more airflow, a bigger cam will need to be installed, and the ignition system will need to be up to standards. Also, these carburetors are "built to order." So when placing an order, please specify if your engine has a factory stock size or oversize intake valve, if you want it with a straight-thru throttle bore (no venturi) or a 1" or .995" (NQS legal) venturi, if the engine is going to turn 4,000± RPM or wide open throttle, and if you want the choke plate/shaft installed. All carburetors that we repair, rebuild or sell come with a 30 day workmanship warranty and are guaranteed to be free of defects. Technical support comes with part of the warranty.
|
| Rebuilt, reworked and modified
only for high performance use, #30 Carter/Kohler carburetors. These carburetors
have been internally modified to outperform a stock OEM carburetor under
heavy pulling load and will not run lean while going down the track. Will
pass tech with any club. The venturi in these carburetors can be bored so
they'll have a 1.2" straight-through throttle bore, setup for gas, E85 or
methanol fuels, whatever your club's sanctioning rules allow or whatever
you desire for all-out engine performance. These carburetors are completely
disassembled, then thoroughly cleaned. All fuel passageways cleared, new
parts and a new throttle shaft and/or bushing are installed if necessary.
The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be initially set on
the carburetor to get the engine running, but due to the altitude
(atmospheric
pressure) where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel
mixture adjustments will need to be made by the customer or an experienced
small engine mechanic/technician so the engine will run smooth.
NOTE: These carburetors are designed for use on Stock and Stock-Altered pulling engines with a stock size or an oversize intake valve. Also, a high performance carburetor is designed solely for a high performance engine. Just bolting on a high performance carburetor is not how to gain more power and torque for a stock engine. If your engine is not a high performance engine built to race specs, then it will not benefit from a high performance carburetor whatsoever. These carburetors will not allow a stock "factory-built engine" to produce lots of power just by bolting it it on. Everything in the engine MUST work together to prevent air restriction or a "bottleneck" to slow down air flow. With a bigger carburetor, the engine needs to breath A LOT more air in and out of the combustion chamber. This means the intake and exhaust ports will need to be made bigger, the valves reworked for more airflow, a bigger cam will need to be installed, and the ignition system will need to be up to standards. Also, these carburetors are "built to order." So when placing an order, please specify if your engine has a factory stock size or oversize intake valve, if you want it with a straight-thru throttle bore (no venturi) or a 1" or .995" (NQS legal) venturi, if the engine is going to turn at 4,000± RPM or wide open throttle, and if you want the choke plate/shaft installed. All carburetors that we repair, rebuild or sell come with a 30 day workmanship warranty and are guaranteed to be free of defects. Technical support comes with part of the warranty.
|
 6" Length Steel Carburetor
Extension for 16hp Missouri Super Stock Pulling Engine.
Atomizes fuel better at higher RPMs so engine will produce more power and torque. Works equally well with gas or methanol fuels. Works just as well as a billet aluminum extension! 1.25" inside diameter tubing.
|
How To Convert a Carter/Kohler Carburetor For High Performance Use At
Any Engine RPM -
By boring out the venturi (the smallest part of a throttle bore) and reworking the Carter/Kohler carburetor, this will "open up the carburetor" and allow the engine to draw more air into the combustion chamber so it can build up more compression, which will allow it to produce more power. (It'll be like going from a small 2-barrel carburetor to a large 4-barrel carburetor on a V8 automotive engine.) Although the below is considered "Old School" by today's standards, it has been proven to help the engine produce more horsepower and torque on the dyno, and allow the tractor to pull much stronger on the track, and it equals the performance of the popular and high dollar recast (Kohler) carburetors.
Use a reamer or large drill
bit of a specific diameter to bore the venturi. Enlarge the venturi to either
a limit of 1" or .995" (NQS legal), make it a straight-through design (to
match the diameter of the throttle bore) or enlarge it to whatever your club's
sanctioning rules allow. Turn the cutting tool at a slow speed, and apply
a continuous spray of WD-40 while boring the venturi to create a smooth,
slick surface in the throttle bore.
Grind
an angle on the end of the main jet/nozzle. To do this correctly so the engine
will accelerate with no hesitation whatsoever...
Due to normal engine vibration
at high RPM, plug the original atmospheric vent (air passageway from outside
the carburetor to the float bowl area) and then drill a 3/32" hole on the
side of the carburetor body in alignment with the atmospheric vent passageway
in case of gas overflow and/or so the engine won't possibly run erratically
rich on fuel. Or for safety and convenience, leave out the choke shaft and
plate, plug the choke shaft holes, and install a remote
fuel primer kit as described further down in this web site.
With a bored-out venturi, the
engine will obviously draw more air and require more fuel. To prevent the
engine from starving for fuel at high RPM, offset the level of the float
upward. To adjust it correctly, with the carburetor body turned upside-down,
set the float so it will be downward. This will permit the float to drop
down more as fuel level decreases, allowing the float valve to open further
so more fuel will enter the float bowl. See the drawing to the right.
à
On the throttle shaft, grind
the area opposite the throttle plate until the shaft is about 1/16" thickness
so more air can pass around the shaft at high RPM, but leave the screw holes
"lumped up" to prevent stripping the threads and to maintain strength in
the shaft. See photo to the right. à
How to Easily Convert the Carter/Kohler
#26, #28 or #30 Carburetors to the Bottom High Speed Main Fuel Adjuster
- An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because
nobody else advertise this type of foolproof conversion.
Top of page
This conversion has been proven many times to function
flawlessly for a high RPM or wide open throttle competition pulling
engine. The bottom main fuel adjuster is not an OEM Kohler part and not a
modification by Kohler. It provides no high-performance enhancements or "added
horsepower" to the engine whatsoever. This part is an add-on feature and
absolute must only for competition pulling engines to prevent wearing or
enlarging the hole in the high speed main jet by the OEM high speed needle
adjuster due to normal engine vibration at very high RPM or wide open throttle
engine operations, the carburetor should be converted to the bottom adjuster.
Whoever says that the use of this part will increase the performance of an
engine obviously do not know what they are talking about, or they are in
the business of selling new main jet/nozzles, which can sometimes be very
difficult to replace. Rather the high speed main jet/nozzle can be easily
removed with a screwdriver or drilled into and chiseled out. (If not done
carefully, damage to the carburetor could result, rendering it useless.)
Also, with a bored-out venturi, a 60º angle would need to be precisely
ground on the end of the nozzle in exact alignment with the centerline of
the throttle bore so engine vacuum will draw fuel through the high speed
main jet/nozzle immediately upon acceleration.
Due to normal engine vibration at high RPM or wide open throttle operation, the pointed tip on the OEM top high speed main fuel needle adjuster will "severely vibrate around" inside the lower hole in the main jet/nozzle. The tip of the flexible brass needle adjuster will wear the main jet hole larger, eventually causing the engine to run rich on fuel, and over time as the hole wears even larger, will make further lean adjustments impossible. This will happen with gas or alcohol fuels. There is no way to prevent this from happening except convert the carburetor to the bottom main fuel adjuster. And when the carburetor is reworked with the venturi bored-out (straight-through throttle bore design) for high performance use, it equals the performance of the popular "Super Carb" carburetor. (Which I think is a very fine performance carburetor.) Also, if you're wondering if the presence of the OEM high speed adjuster tube will slow the incoming airflow through the "straight through" throttle bore, well, the throttle plate and shaft are about 30% wider than the high speed adjuster tube, even with the throttle shaft ground or machined thin to increase the air flow.
How to Convert a Carburetor to the Bottom Main Fuel Adjuster:
| If you need any of the parts or services listed below
Ê, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am
to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When
speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's
shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends (except Holidays).
Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. NOTE: To place
an order, please call either number above or send an email with a list and
description of the parts or services you need. Because as of right now, my
websites are not set up to accept orders online. |
|||
| NOTE: All parts listed here are NEW, unless otherwise stated. I do not sell cheap junk! As a matter of fact, most OEM Kohler parts are made in China now. Kohler owns some of the factories in China that make the parts. And most aftermarket parts are also made by Kohler in China. Kohler just place the part(s) in a generic box and sell them for less money. So when purchasing a genuine OEM Kohler part that comes in a box with the Kohler name on it, you're really just paying more money for the name. | |||
 Carburetor-to-Block
Mounting Gasket for Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 and Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetors
used on Kohler engine models K90 (3.6hp), K91 (4hp), K141 (6¼hp), K160
(6.6hp), K161 (7hp) and K181/M8 (8hp). Approximately 1/64" compressed thickness.
|
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 Air Filter Housing
or Intake Elbow Adapter-to-Carburetor Mounting Gasket for Carter #16, #18,
#20, #22 and Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetors used on K90 (3.6hp), K91 (4hp),
K141 (6¼hp), K160 (6.6hp), K161 (7hp) and K181 (8hp) Kohler K-series
flathead cast iron block engines, and most aluminum block Tecumseh engines.
Approximately 1/32" compressed thickness. Use with two mounting screws.
(This is a Tecumseh part that happens to fit the Carter and Walbro WHL
carburetors perfectly.) Discontinued from Kohler.
L Replaces Kohler part # 220537.
|
 Alternate Air Filter Housing
or Intake Elbow Adapter-to-Carburetor Mounting Gasket for Carter #16, #18,
#20, #22 and Walbro WHL 36, #44 carburetors used on K90 (3.6hp), K91 (4hp),
K141 (6¼hp), K160 (6.6hp), K161 (7hp) and K181/M8 (8hp) Kohler K-series
and Magnum flathead cast iron block engines. Use with two or three mounting
screws. Approximately 1/32" compressed thickness.
|
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 Carburetor-to-Block Mounting
Gasket for Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors
used on Kohler engine models K241/M10 (10hp), K301/M12 (12hp), K330/K331
(12½hp), K321/M14 (14hp), K341/M16 (16hp) and K361 (18hp OHV) and opposed
(flathead) twin cylinder engines. Approximately 1/32" compressed thickness.
For general yard work. Approximately 1/32" compressed thickness.
|
 Carburetor-to-Block
Heat Isolator Mounting Gasket
for Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors
used on Kohler engine models K241/M10 (10hp), K301/M12 (12hp), K330/K331
(12½hp), K321/M14 (14hp) and K341/M16 (16hp). Approximately 5/32" compressed
thickness. Has gaskets adhered to each side of heat resistant
phenolic
resin center. NOTE: This particular gasket prevents engine
heat from being transferred to the carburetor. Along with the
heat isolator fuel pump mounting gasket,
the cooler fuel
atomizes
better before entering the combustion chamber to improve engine performance.
Ideal for heavy yard/garden work and/or stock competition pulling when rules
require that carburetor cannot be mounted with any kind of
extension.
|
||
 Air Cleaner Base-to-Carburetor
Mounting Gasket for Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHG #52, #60,
#64 carburetors used on Kohler K-series engine models K241 (10hp), K301 (12hp),
K321 (14hp), K330/K331 (12½hp), K341 (16hp), K361 (18hp OHV) and opposed
(flathead) twin cylinder engines with the
round air filter housing
assembly. Use with three mounting screws. Approximately 1/32" compressed
thickness.
|
 Air Cleaner Base-to-Carburetor
Mounting Gasket for Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHG #52, #60,
#64 carburetors used on Kohler K-series AQS (Quiet Line) and Magnum engine
models K241/M10 (10hp), K301/M12 (12hp), K321/M14 (14hp), K341/M16 (16hp)
and K361 (18hp OHV) with the
oblong-shaped air filter housing
assembly. Use with three mounting screws. Approximately 1/32" compressed
thickness.
|
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 Intake Manifold-to-Cylinder
Mounting Gasket for Kohler opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engine models
KT17, KT17II, KT19, KT19II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Approximately
1/32" compressed thickness.
|
 Exhaust Manifold-to-Cylinder
Mounting Gasket for Kohler opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engine models
KT17, KT17II, KT19, KT19II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20.
|
||
 Intake Manifold-to-Block
Mounting Gasket for Kohler opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engine models
K482, K532 and K582.
|
 Exhaust Manifold-to-Block
Mounting Gasket for Kohler opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engine models
K482, K532 and K582.
|
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 Air Intake Elbow
Adapter-to-Carburetor Mounting Gasket for Kohler engine models K321, K341,
KT17, KT17II, KT19, KT19II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20, K482, K532, K582.
Approximately 1/32" compressed thickness.
|
 Carburetor and Air Filter
Housing-to-Elbow Adapter Mounting Gasket for Kohler engine models CH25,
CH730-740, KT17, KT17II, KT19, KT19II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20, K482,
K532, K582. Approximately 1/32" compressed thickness.
|
||
 Carburetor Overhaul Kit for
Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 and Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors used
on Kohler K-series and early Magnum single and opposed (flathead) twin cylinder
engines. Includes
Viton-tip
fuel inlet float valve/brass seat, bowl O-ring seal, fuel baffle splash shield,
bottom fiber washer and float hinge pin. All parts made of alcohol-resistant
neoprene
rubber.
|
 Carburetor Overhaul Kit
with Viton-tip
fuel inlet float valve for Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors
that's used on Kohler Magnum models M8 (8hp), M10 (10hp), M12 (12hp), M14
(14hp), M16 (16hp), MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20 single- and twin-cylinder
flathead cast iron block engines. Includes carburetor mounting gasket.
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 Viton-tip fuel inlet float valve for Walbro WHL #36, #44
or WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors. Valve has clip that hooks on float tab
to force it open to allow fuel to fill float bowl. Prevents valve from sticking
in closed position. Not available separately from Kohler.
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 Float Bowl O-Ring
Seal for Carter/Kohler carburetors. Dimensions (±): 2-3/16" i.d. x 2-7/16"
o.d. x .040" thickness. Rectangular cross-section. Fits Carter #16, #18,
#20, #22 and Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors used on the Kohler K-series
and early Magnum single cylinder 4hp-16hp, 18hp OHV single- and twin-cylinder
flathead cast iron block engines. Also fits Briggs & Stratton 7-11hp
engines, and Tecumseh engines with Carter or Walbro carburetors (large bowl).
Made of alcohol resistant
neoprene
rubber. Included in overhaul kit above È.
|
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 Fuel Baffle Splash
Shield. Fits all Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 and Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30
carburetors used on the Kohler K-series and early Magnum single cylinder
4hp-16hp, 18hp OHV single- and twin-cylinder flathead cast iron block engines.
Goes between bowl seal and float bowl; prevents splashing fuel from entering
into throttle bore through the atmospheric vent (air passageway from outside
the carburetor to the float bowl area). Made of alcohol resistant
neoprene
rubber. Included in overhaul kit above È.
|
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 Float bowl for
Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors used on Kohler K-series engine models
K90 (3.6hp), K91 (4hp), K141 (6¼hp), K160 (6.6hp), K161 (7hp) and K181
(8hp). Available in aluminum only. Dimensions: 2-3/8"
o.d. x 1-1/4" height x 5/16" bottom hole.
Float bowls for Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors used on Kohler K-series
engine models K241 (10hp), K301 (12hp), K330/K331 (12½hp), K321 (14hp),
K341 (16hp), K361 (18hp OHV), KT17. KT17II, KT19, KT19II and KT21.
|
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 Float Bowl Retaining
Bolt. 5/16" diameter threads x 1/2" head. Fits Carter #16, #18, #20, #22
carburetors. Comes with sealing fiber washer.
Float Bowl Retaining Bolts. 3/8" diameter threads. Fits Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors, and Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors.
|
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 5/16" i.d. Float
Bowl Retaining Bolt Fiber Sealing Washer. Fits Carter #16, #18, #20, #22,
Briggs & Stratton, Mikuni, Tecumseh and other small carburetors. Not
available from Kohler, and the 5/16" size is not included in the Carter/Kohler
carburetor overhaul kit. Replaces Tecumseh part # 632673, 640042.
|
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 Brass Floats for
all Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 and Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors
used on the Kohler K-series, early Magnum single cylinder 4hp-16hp, 18hp
OHV single- and twin-cylinder flathead cast iron block engines. Dimensions
(±): 15/16" i.d. x 1-15/16" o.d. x 5/8" tall. NOTE: ALL brass
floats need to be adjusted when installed. They don't come preset. To set
the float level, with the carburetor turned upside down, set the float parallel
with the carburetor body. To adjust the float level, use a small flat screwdriver
to gently bend the tang that contacts the float valve. Then make sure that
the float moves up and down freely without binding.
|
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 Plastic Floats
for Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors used on the Kohler's
newer Magnum M8-M16 single- and M18, M20 twin-cylinder cast iron block flathead
engines.
|
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 Float Pins for
Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 and Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30, Briggs & Stratton,
Lawn Boy and Tecumseh carburetors. Dimensions: .090" diameter x .881" length.
Float Pins for Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors. Dimensions: .090" diameter x 1.125" length.
|
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 Float Stabilizer
Spring for Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors for pulling engines that
run well above 4,000 RPM or wide open throttle. Minimizes float bouncing
and due to normal single cylinder engine vibration at high RPM or wide open
throttle, which could also cause momentary engine misfire and/or fuel spillage
out of atmospheric vent (air passageway from outside carburetor to float
bowl area). Not required for general yard and garden use or pulling engines
that operate at 4,000± RPM. OEM Kohler part # 237917-S.
|
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| High Speed
Bottom Main Fuel Adjuster -
The bottom main fuel adjuster is not an OEM Kohler part and not a modification by Kohler. It is an absolute must for a competition pulling engine that runs at very high RPM or wide open throttle. It provides no high-performance engine enhancements whatsoever. It's an add-on feature only to prevent wearing or enlarging the fuel suction hole in the high speed main jet by the OEM high speed needle adjuster due to normal engine vibration at very high RPM or wide open throttle engine operations. (Whoever says that the use of this part will increase the performance of an engine obviously do not know what they are talking about, or they are in the business of selling new high speed main jet/nozzles, which can be very difficult to remove.) The carburetor must be converted to the bottom adjuster when using this part. Fits all Carter/Kohler #26, #28 and #30 carburetors used on Kohler K-series and early Magnum engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 (18hp OHV).
|
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New Brass Main
Jet/Nozzle. Fits all Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors used on Kohler
K-series and early Magnum engine models K241 (10hp), K301 (12hp), K321 (14hp),
K330/K331 (12½hp), K341 (16hp) flatheads, K361 (18hp OHV) and opposed
(flathead) twin cylinder engines. Drilled for gas. This part is professionally
CNC machined in the USA and not available from Kohler. NOTE: When
rebuilding a plain, stock Carter/Kohler carburetor, there is no need to remove
the high speed main jet/nozzle. If it won't come out, then don't worry about
it. All that has to be done to make sure the bottom hole and the side holes
on it are open. To check if the side holes are open, simply spray carburetor
cleaner or WD-40 or carburetor cleaner (in an aerosol spray can) through
the small hole just under the choke plate and observe if the spray exits
out the high speed main jet/nozzle inside the throttle bore and bottom of
carburetor. But if modifying a carburetor to bore the venturi, the high speed
main jet/nozzle must be removed.
Click here for
how to remove the high speed main jet/nozzle.
|
|||
 Fixed High Speed
Main Jets for Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors. 10-32 UNF threads.
Go here to identify the correct jet for any particular carburetor:
Kohler
Carburetor Reference Manual. NOTE: Numbers on carburetor must match
numbers of main jet for engine to run correctly. Available Jet Sizes
and Prices:
|
|||
 Idle Fuel Mixture
Adjuster Screws for Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors with following
numbers stamped on top of carburetor body: G-220517, C-231738, B-231739,
41 053 01, 41 053 13, 41 053 18, 41 053 20 used on Kohler engine models K90
(3.6hp), K91 (4hp), K141 (6¼hp), K160 (6.6hp), K161 (7hp) and K181 (8hp).
Also for Carter/Kohler #30 carburetors with 1.17" or 1.2" throttle bore with
following numbers stamped on mounting flange: 45 053 08, 45 053 09, 45 053
12, 45 053 20, 45 053 68, 45 053 70, 45 053 76, 45 053 86, 45 053 87, 45
053 88, 45 053 89, 47 053 03, 47 053 09, 47 053 15, 47 053 16, 47 053 17,
47 053 20, 47 053 30, 47 053 41, 47 053 63, 47 053 78 used on Kohler engine
models K321 (14hp), K341 (16hp) and K361 (18hp OHV). Short step tip. Dimensions:
.865" overall length x .200" tip length x 7-40 threads.
Idle Speed Adjuster Screws for Kohler #26, #30 carburetors used on Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582. Dimensions: 8-32 UNF x 3/4" length.
Important - Please check numbers on carburetor before ordering. If in doubt about superseded numbers for any particular carburetor, refer to Kohler Engines Parts Lookup (requires Internet Explorer.) Mark "I accept", scroll down, click on "Enter as Guest" and enter part number in upper right corner. Use the newest superseded part number available, click on "where used" in the pop-up dialog box. A list engine models and spec numbers should be displayed.
 High Speed Main Fuel Mixture
Needle Adjuster Screw for certain Carter/Kohler #28, #30 carburetors used
on Kohler K-series and early Magnum single cylinder engine models K321, K341
and K361. Has two holes midway and one lower hole on
stem. Designed specifically for Kohler carburetors with following numbers
stamped on mounting flange: 4174S (Carter), 45 053 08, 45 053 12, 45 053
20, 45 053 26, 45 053 68, 45 053 70, 45 053 76, 45 053 77 and 47 053 11.
IMPORTANT - Please check numbers on carburetor before ordering and go here
to identify the correct part for any particular carburetor:
Kohler
Carburetor Reference Manual. Discontinued from Kohler. Kohler part #
45 103 01-S.
High Speed Main Fuel Mixture
Needle Adjuster Screw for certain Carter #30 carburetors used on certain
Kohler engine models K321, and Kohler #26, 1.07" throttle bore carburetors
used on Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582. Each has no holes midway
and one lower hole on stem. Designed specifically for certain Carter and
Kohler carburetors with following numbers stamped on mounting flange: A236636
(Carter), 47 053 03, 47 053 09, 47 053 15, 47 053 16, 47 053 17, 47 053 20,
47 053 30, 47 053 41, 47 053 63 and 47 053 78. IMPORTANT - Please check numbers
on carburetor before ordering and go here to identify the correct part for
any particular carburetor:
Kohler
Carburetor Reference Manual. Not available in aftermarket.
L
 High Speed Main Fuel Mixture
Needle Adjuster Screw for Kohler #26, 1.07" throttle bore carburetor used
on Kohler opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engine models KT17, KT17II, KT19,
KT19II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Has four holes midway and one lower
hole on stem. Designed specifically for Kohler carburetors with following
numbers stamped on mounting flange: 52 053 01, 52 053 02, 52 053 09, 52 053
10, 52 053 11, 52 053 16, 52 053 18 and 52 053 28. IMPORTANT - Please check
numbers on carburetor before ordering and go here to identify the correct
part for any particular carburetor:
Kohler
Carburetor Reference Manual. Discontinued from Kohler. OEM Kohler part
# 52 103 01-S. Not available in aftermarket.
L
|
|||
Plugs for Carter/Kohler and Walbro carburetors. Welch plugs
are concave/dish-shaped, not cup-shaped. Expands and flattens out with hammer
when installed in counterbore hole. No sealant required. Steel ball press-fit
in hole. Not available from Kohler.
|
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 Carburetor Mounting
Screw (Bolt) w/Slotted Head for Carter #16, #18, #20, #22, and Walbro WHL
#36, #44 carburetors that's used on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161
and K181/M8. Use small screwdriver in slot to start screws in threaded holes.
Size: 1/4-20 UNC x 3/4" thread length. Discontinued from Kohler.
L Replaces Kohler part # X-140-1-S.
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A worn throttle shaft is the #1 cause
of most engines wearing out and burning oil prematurely. If a carburetor
has a worn throttle shaft, this will create a vacuum leak and the engine
will idle poorly, if at all at times. Not to mention the engine will also
draw in dirty air, causing wear on the valve faces/seats and piston rings,
and engine will burn oil. More than .010" of play is considered too much
for throttle shaft wear. Plus, at operating running speeds (3,600 RPM), the
extra air will cause the engine to run lean on fuel, which will overheat
the combustion chamber and cause the cylinder head to warp (blow a head gasket)
and the piston and rings to wear prematurely, eventually resulting in severe
engine wear and excessive oil burning. Along with regular maintenance, repair
of a worn throttle shaft is required to help an engine last a long time.
The most accurate way to check for amount of wear is with a
dial indicator.
Furthermore, all Carter/Kohler and Walbro carburetors don't come with a throttle shaft bushing installed from the factory. A bushing (see below Ê) must be installed when the throttle shaft is worn and loose in the carburetor, or a bushing and a new throttle shaft both must be installed. If there's a counterbore (recession in the carburetor body) where the throttle shaft is, a short, flat bronze bushing can be installed, and if it's still in good condition, the original throttle shaft can be reused. But if there's no counterbore, the carburetor body will need to be precision aligned-bored for installation of a bronze sleeve bushing, and chances are, a new throttle shaft will also need to be installed. Special machining of the carburetor body is required for the sleeve bushing. And ALL Carter and Kohler #26, #28 and #30, and the older Walbro #52, #60 and #64 carburetors have the counterbore. Only the newer Walbro #52, #60 and #64 carburetors don't have the counterbore. If the carburetor has the counterbore, the throttle shaft will need to be removed, the dirt and debris will need to be cleaned out from the counterbore, and then the short, flat bushing can be installed. But if there's no counterbore, the upper hole in the carburetor body will need to be bored out in precision alignment with the lower hole in a milling machine, and then a bronze sleeve bushing can be installed. Return To Previous Paragraph |
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 Bronze
Throttle Shaft Bushing for Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors with a
counterbore that's used on Kohler engine models K90 (3.6hp), K91 (4hp), K141
(6¼hp), K160 (6.6hp), K161 (7hp) and K181 (8hp), as well as other makes
and models of engines that use the same carburetor. Dimensions: 7/32" i.d.
x .407" o.d. x 1/8" height. NOTE: Apply clean motor oil
or
automotive grease on throttle shaft before installing for
smooth throttle operation and less wear to shaft, bushing or carburetor body.
And some later Carter carburetors do not have the counterbore to accept this
bushing. If there's no counterbore, then if the shaft hole is not severely
worn, a new throttle shaft (see below) can be installed.
Click here to learn how
to professionally remove Carter/Kohler throttle or choke plate soft brass
retaining screws without breaking them off. But if the shaft hole
is severely worn, it will need to be slightly enlarged to match a fabricated
oversized throttle shaft made of mild steel. The original lever will need
to be ground off the old shaft and welded onto the new shaft. I offer this
service, too. (see below) No Kohler part number available for this bushing.
An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this
part or services.
Installation Instructions: The above È bushings makes contact with the upper unworn 1/8" area on the throttle shaft. The original throttle shaft can be reused with the bushing if it isn't severely worn. To install the bushing, first of all, to avoid breaking off the OEM soft brass throttle plate screws, use a Dremel or equivalent small rotary grinder chucked with either a very small grinding stone (chainsaw sharpening stone) or an 1/8" high speed steel end mill to grind away the flared threads at the end of the screws, then the screws can be removed, and then remove the shaft from the carburetor body. Clean out the counterbore and depending on size of carburetor, place the bushing over a 3/16" or 1/4" bolt and insert the screw of bolt in the throttle shaft hole to align the bushing straight with the counterbore and use small hammer or bench vise to drive- or press-in the bushing, and then reinstall the shaft. Additional Note: Usually the short, flat bronze bushing will snug up a worn throttle shaft. With oil for lubrication and a felt or foam seal to keep out dust and dirt/debris (available below), the bushing should last a long time. If the bushing fits somewhat loose in the counterbore, lightly tap the sides of the counterbore with a hammer to make the counterbore slightly oblong or egg-shaped. The newer Walbro carburetors have no counterbore for the bushing, and sometimes the [upper] throttle shaft hole will wear. When this happens, just installing a new shaft won't fix the problem. The upper hole must be precision-align bored with the [unworn] lower hole, and a bronze sleeve bushing will need to be installed along with a new shaft. On other makes of carburetors, if the original shaft is worn and a new throttle shaft isn't available, then a new throttle shaft will need to be machined. The throttle lever can be reused and welded to the new fabricated shaft. And if necessary, a slightly oversized shaft can be installed instead of the original diameter shaft. I can do all this for $50.00± parts and labor, plus return shipping & handling.
OEM Kohler Choke Shaft Repair Kits -
If the throttle and/or choke shafts and/or shaft holes are worn in a K482,
K532 or K582 carburetor, if the holes aren't worn beyond for reuse, I use
1/4" cold rolled steel rod to make a new throttle shaft. But if the holes
are worn too, and being the metal is too thin on one side for installation
of a bushing, the shaft holes will need to be enlarged a few thousandths
bigger than 1/4", and a steel rod that's slightly bigger than the enlarged
holes (for a slip-fit) will need to be fabricated for use as a throttle shaft.
I then align and weld or braze the OEM throttle lever to the new shaft. I've
performed this type of repair many times with excellent results. I offer
this repair service. If interested, for dimensional measurements, I will
need the complete carburetor with the throttle shaft/lever and throttle plate.
FYI - Bearing bronze is very hard, porous, absorbs oil and lasts a long time
when lubricated regularly and used as a bushing. Brass, on the other hand,
is soft, non-porous and wears quickly when used as a load-bearing bushing
or shaft. Click here to learn
how to professionally remove Carter/Kohler throttle or choke plate soft brass
retaining screws without breaking them off. An innovative concept
by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this repair service.
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 Remote Solid Wire Throttle
Control Cable. All heavy duty metal construction. Conduit: 36-1/2"; Inner
wire: 41-1/4"; Wire travel: 1-3/4".
|
  Remote Push/Pull Solid Wire Choke Control Cable. Durable plastic
construction to resist rust w/metal conduit. Conduit length: 40-1/2"; Inner
wire length: 42-1/4"; Wire travel: 2".
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3-48 UNC Screws
w/split lock washers to fasten throttle or choke plate in Carter, OEM Kohler,
Kohler-replacement (Walbro) or various other throttle shafts. (.095" outside
thread diameter; screw length measured from under head to end of threads.)
Each are grade 18-8 stainless steel; tensile strength: 120,000 psi. Discontinued
from Kohler. L Replaces Kohler part # 234209-S.
Many other small screw sizes available at reasonable prices. |
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Quality High Speed Steel Taper Taps. Taper taps allow for
the tip to be inserted deeper in the hole for easier cutting of threads.
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 Throttle Shaft
with lever attached for Carter #16, #18 and Walbro WHL #36 carburetors used
on Kohler engine models K90 (3.6hp), K91 (4hp) cast iron block flathead engines.
Steel lever with 7/32" diameter hardened bronze shaft. Comes with 3-48 UNC
stainless steel screws and split lock washers. No threadlocker required.
Can be used with OEM Carter throttle plate or the 25 146 05-S (Walbro) throttle
plate below. NOTE: Apply clean motor oil
or
automotive grease on shaft before installing for smooth
throttle operation and less wear to shaft, bushing and/or carburetor body.
Click here to learn how to
professionally remove Carter/Kohler throttle or choke plate soft brass retaining
screws without breaking them off.
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  Throttle Shafts with integrated lever for Carter #20, #22 and
Walbro WHL #44 carburetors used on Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161,
K181 and M8 cast iron block flathead engines. Steel lever with 7/32" diameter
hardened bronze shaft. Comes with 3-48 UNC stainless steel screws and split
lock washers. No threadlocker required. Can be used with OEM Carter throttle
plate or the 25 146 05-S (Walbro) throttle plate below
Ê. NOTE: Apply clean motor oil
or
automotive grease on shaft before installing for smooth
throttle operation and less wear to shaft, bushing and/or carburetor body.
Go here to
learn how to professionally remove Carter/Kohler throttle or choke plate
retaining screws without breaking them off.
|
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| Throttle Shaft Upgrade Kit -
|
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 Throttle Shafts
for Kohler engine models K241/M10 (10hp), K301/M12 (12hp) and K330/K331
(12½hp). Each have a small hole for throttle stabilizer spring or throttle
return spring (pulling). NOTE: Apply clean motor oil
or
automotive grease on shaft before installing for smooth
throttle operation and less wear to shaft, bushing and/or carburetor body.
Click here to learn how to
professionally remove Carter/Kohler throttle or choke plate soft brass retaining
screws without breaking them off.
 Throttle Plates for Kohler
engine models K241/M10, K301/M12 and K330/K331.
 Throttle plate specifically
for Carter or Kohler 1.2" #30 carburetor with OEM Carter or Kohler throttle
shaft used on Kohler engine models K321/M14 and K341/M16. Made to be used
with OEM Carter, Kohler or aftermarket throttle shafts above
È with 11/16" screw hole spacing when
used in a Walbro WHG #60, #64 carburetor. Made of steel. No Kohler part number.
 Throttle plates specifically
for Walbro carburetor models HDA, LMH, WHG #60, #64 with 1.2" diameter throttle
bore. Made to be used with 47 144 36-S throttle shaft above
È with 3/4" screw hole spacing when
used in a Carter or Kohler carburetor. Each made of brass. Not available
in aftermarket. L
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  Throttle shaft w/foam seal and throttle plates for Walbro
carburetors used on Kohler engine models CH11, CH12.5, CH14, CV11, CV12.5,
CV14, CV15, CV16 and CV460.
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 Throttle Shaft
w/Prominent Raised Lever for Walbro WHG #52 or Kohler #26 carburetors used
on Kohler horizontal shaft engine models KT17, KT17II, KT19, KT19II, M18
and M20. 1/4" diameter hardened bronze shaft with steel lever. Comes with
3-48 UNC stainless steel screws and split lock washers. No threadlocker required.
Lever has a 3/16" hole for throttle bushing/linkage. NOTE: To be used
with Kohler 25 146 02-S (Walbro # 34-112) throttle plate. Apply clean motor
oil or
automotive grease on shaft before installing for smooth
throttle operation and less wear to shaft, bushing and/or carburetor body.
Click here to learn how to
professionally remove Carter/Kohler throttle or choke plate soft brass retaining
screws without breaking them off. OEM Kohler part # 52 144 22-S.
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 Choke shaft w/remote
solid wire cable-controlled lever for Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 and Walbro
WHL #36, #44 carburetors used on Kohler engine models K90 (3.6hp), K91, K141,
K160/K161, K181 and M8. Steel lever with hardened bronze shaft. Overall shaft
length: 2-1/2". The 1-7/8" length choke shaft, which was made by Carter,
is no longer available. L) Comes with 3-48
UNC stainless steel screws and split lock washers. No threadlocker required.
NOTE: Apply clean motor oil or
automotive grease on shaft before installing for smooth
choke operation and less wear to shaft and/or carburetor body.
Click here to learn how to
professionally remove Carter/Kohler throttle or choke plate soft brass retaining
screws without breaking them off.
|
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 Choke shaft
w/hand-operated or remote solid wire cable-controlled angled lever for Carter
#16, #18, #20, #22 and Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetors used on Kohler engine
models K90 (3.6hp), K91, K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8. Steel lever with hardened
bronze shaft. Overall shaft length: 2-1/16". The 1-7/8" length choke shaft,
which was made by Carter, is no longer available.
L) Comes with 3-48 UNC stainless steel screws
and split lock washers. No threadlocker required. NOTE: Apply clean motor
oil or
automotive grease on shaft before installing for smooth
choke operation and less wear to shaft and/or carburetor body.
Click here to learn how to
professionally remove Carter/Kohler throttle or choke plate soft brass retaining
screws without breaking them off.
|
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 Choke shaft w/remote
solid wire cable-controlled, swivel screw clamp lever for Carter #16, #18,
#20, #22 and Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetors used on Kohler engine models
K90 (3.6hp), K91, K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8. Steel lever with hardened
bronze shaft. Overall shaft length: 2-1/2". (The 1-7/8" length choke shaft,
which was originally made by Carter, is no longer available.
L) Steel lever with hardened bronze shaft.
Comes with 3-48 UNC stainless steel screws and split lock washers. No
threadlocker required. NOTE: Apply clean motor oil
or
automotive grease on shaft before installing for smooth
choke operation and less wear to shaft and/or carburetor body.
Click here to learn how to
professionally remove Carter/Kohler throttle or choke plate soft brass retaining
screws without breaking them off.
|
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 Choke shaft w/short,
remote solid wire cable-controlled lever for Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30
and Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors with the
round air filter housing
assembly. Steel lever with hardened bronze shaft. Overall shaft length:
2-5/8". 1/4" diameter hardened bronze shaft with steel lever. Comes with
3-48 UNC stainless steel screws and split lock washers. No threadlocker required.
NOTE: The choke shaft for Carter/Kohler carburetors have been discontinued.
This one is made by Walbro and designed for Walbro choke plates in a Walbro
carburetor. If used in a Carter/Kohler carburetor, the holes in the Carter/Kohler
choke plate may need to be elongated to align with the threaded holes in
this shaft. And apply clean motor oil or
automotive grease on shaft before installing for smooth
choke operation and less wear to shaft and/or carburetor body.
Click here to learn how to
professionally remove Carter/Kohler throttle or choke plate soft brass retaining
screws without breaking them off.
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Choke shaft w/short,
angled, hand-operated or remote solid wire cable-controlled lever for
Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors with
the round air filter housing
assembly. 1/4" diameter hardened bronze shaft with steel lever. Overall
shaft length: 2-5/8". Comes with 3-48 UNC stainless steel screws and split
lock washers. No threadlocker required. NOTE: The choke shaft for
Carter/Kohler carburetors have been discontinued.
L This one is made by Walbro and designed
for Walbro choke plates in a Walbro carburetor. If used in a Carter/Kohler
carburetor, the holes in the Carter/Kohler choke plate may need to be elongated
to align with the threaded holes in this shaft. And apply clean motor oil
or
automotive grease on shaft before installing for smooth
choke operation and less wear to shaft and/or carburetor body.
Click here to learn how to
professionally remove Carter/Kohler throttle or choke plate soft brass retaining
screws without breaking them off.
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Choke shaft w/long,
straight, hand-operated or remote solid wire cable-controlled lever for Kohler
#26, #30 and Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors with the AQS (Quiet Line)
oblong-shaped air filter housing
assembly. 1/4" diameter hardened bronze shaft with steel lever. Overall
shaft length: 2-5/8". Comes with 3-48 UNC stainless steel screws and split
lock washers. No threadlocker required. NOTE: The choke shaft for
Carter/Kohler carburetors have been discontinued.
L This one is made by Walbro and designed
for Walbro choke plates in a Walbro carburetor. If used in a Carter/Kohler
carburetor, the holes in the Carter/Kohler choke plate may need to be elongated
to align with the threaded holes in this shaft. And apply clean motor oil
or
automotive grease on shaft before installing for smooth
choke operation and less wear to shaft and/or carburetor body.
Click here to learn how to
professionally remove Carter/Kohler throttle or choke plate soft brass retaining
screws without breaking them off.
|
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 Choke Shaft
w/"Downward Swing" Lever (most common) for Kohler engine models KT17, KT19,
KT19II, M18, M20 with Kohler #26 or Walbro WHG #52 carburetor. 1/4" diameter
hardened bronze shaft with steel lever. Overall shaft length: 2-5/8". For
carburetors with following numbers stamped on mounting flange: 52 053 01,
52 053 09, 52 053 20, 52 053 26, 52 053 28, 52 053 31, 52 053 36, 52 053
37, 52 053 38, 52 053 46, 52 053 50, 52 053 52, 52 053 56, 52 053 58, 52
053 63, 52 053 63, 52 053 66. Comes with 3-48 UNC stainless steel screws
and split lock washers. No threadlocker required. NOTE: The choke shaft
for the KT-series Kohler carburetors have been discontinued.
L This one is made by Walbro and designed
for Walbro choke plates in a Walbro carburetor. If used in a Kohler carburetor,
the holes in the Kohler choke plate may need to be elongated to align with
the threaded holes in this shaft. And apply clean motor oil
or
automotive grease on shaft before installing for smooth
choke operation and less wear to shaft and/or carburetor body.
Click here to learn how to
professionally remove Carter/Kohler throttle or choke plate soft brass retaining
screws without breaking them off.
|
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 Choke Plate for
Kohler engine models K90 (3.6hp), K91 (4hp), K141 (6¼hp), K160 (6.6hp),
K161 (7hp) and K181/M8 (8hp) with Walbro WHL #36, #44 or Carter #16, #18,
#20, #22 carburetors.
|
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| IMPORTANT: For the K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 choke plates below Ê - If the wrong choke plate is used or mismatched with any particular size engine, due to the size and number of holes in the plate, the engine may become flooded too easily, resulting in either hard starting or a fouled spark plug. Or the engine may not receive enough fuel, resulting in hard starting. (None of these will happen with my remote fuel primer kit.) Also, Walbro and Carter/Kohler choke plates are not interchangeable. | |||
 Choke plates
for Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, KT17, KT17II, KT19, KT19II,
or MV16, M18, MV18, M20 MV20 with Carter/Kohler #26 carburetor. Plate with
spring-loaded valve was originally designed and made by the
Carter
Carburetor Corporation. No Kohler part numbers available; discontinued
from Kohler many years ago. L
|
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 Choke plate for
Kohler engine models K321/M14 with Carter/Kohler #30 carburetor. No Kohler
part number available; discontinued from Kohler many years ago.
L
|
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 Choke plate for
Kohler engine models K341/M16 (16hp) and K361 (18hp OHV) with Carter/Kohler
#30 carburetor. No Kohler part number available; discontinued from Kohler
many years ago. L
|
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 Choke Plate for
Kohler Magnum engine models M10 and M12 with Walbro WHG #52 carburetor. 62-129
stamped on plate.
|
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 Choke Plate for
Kohler engine models K321/M14 with Walbro WHG #60, #64 carburetors. 62-128
stamped on plate.
|
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 Choke Plate for
Kohler engine models K341/M16 with Walbro WHG #60, #64 carburetors. 62-124
stamped on plate.
|
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 Choke Plate for
Kohler Magnum engine models MV16, M18, MV18, M20 MV20, or KT17, KT17II, KT19,
KT19II with Walbro WHG #52 carburetor. 62-114 stamped on plate.
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 1/8" Diameter Choke
Friction (Detent) Ball for all Carter/Kohler #16, #18, #20, #22, #26, #28,
#30 and Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetors. NOTE: The ball and spring is
required for hand-operation of the choke to keep it in the open position
on stand-alone engines, such as on a garden tiller, portable generator/welder,
portable air compressor, portable water pump, etc. If choke is remotely solid
wire cable-operated, such as in a tractor, then the ball and spring isn't
needed.
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 Universal
Small Engine Remote Fuel Primer Kit. Safe to use and works flawlessly!
With the fuel bowl atmospheric vent hole(s) plugged, then with one or two
pushes of the primer bulb, air pressure within the carburetor float bowl
forces fuel through the high speed main jet and out the nozzle, creating
a slight flooding condition inside the carburetor throttle bore allowing
a cold engine to start quicker. With this setup installed, the choke plate
and shaft can be removed. No more binding of remote solid wire choke cable
and/or bent choke plate, or messy "hand choking" of carburetor. The
fuel baffle splash shield is not
needed with this setup. For ordinary lawn and garden tractors, garden pulling
tractors or virtually any small engine lawn and garden or snow removal equipment
with a choke plate on the carburetor. Works with pump gas, race gas, E-85
or alcohol fuels. Kit includes primer bulb assembly w/mounting nut and barbed
hose fitting, 3' of 1/8" i.d. x 3/16" o.d. clear vinyl hose, spring-loaded
hose clamp, loop-type clamp and 1/8" diameter x 1" length brass tube.
Click here for installation
instructions. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller,
because nobody else advertise this kit.
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  Vented Gas Caps for all IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractors
with a metal fuel tank, except AQS (Quiet Line) models 800, 1000, 1200, 1250,
1450, 1650, and all spread frame models with a plastic fuel tank. Also fits
larger Briggs & Stratton, Clinton, Tecumseh, Lauson, Wisconsin and other
makes of engines with a 1-3/4" diameter (measured across raised threads)
threaded filler neck on fuel tank.
|
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 Throttle or Choke
Conduit Cable Snap-On Clip/Clamp. Fastens to L-shaped extended bracket on
engine block. OEM Kohler part # 235603-S.
|
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 Throttle/Choke
Cable Dual Conduit Clamps. Use to secure one or two 3/16" or 7/32" diameter
cable conduit(s) to throttle or choke bracket. Zinc-plated steel. Each require
3/16" mounting screw.
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 Universal Loop-Type
Throttle/Choke Cable Conduit/Wire Clamp. Use to secure 3/16" or 7/32" diameter
cable conduit to throttle or choke bracket or bundle of wires along frame
for safe routing. 16 gauge, zinc-plated steel. Requires 3/16" mounting screw.
|
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 Throttle Cable/Wire
Swivel Kit. For securing inner throttle stranded cable or solid wire to governor
lever on block or to throttle lever on carburetor. Each kit includes wire
swivel, screw and friction washer.
|
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 Small Plastic In-Line
Fuel Filter. 1/4" barbed fittings. 1-3/8" diameter x 1-3/4" length. 75
micron.
For engines with gravity feed or fuel pump. Install before fuel pump to lessen
wear to pump valves.
|
 Large Plastic In-Line Fuel
Filter. 1/4" and 5/16" barbed fittings for 1/4" or 5/16" fuel hoses. 75
micron.
For engines with gravity feed or fuel pump. Install before fuel pump to lessen
wear to pump valves.
|
||
  Fuel Hose Clamps for 1/4" i.d. x 1/2" o.d. black neoprene rubber
reinforced fuel hose. Necessary when using a fuel pump for safety.
|
 Reinforced Black
Neoprene
Rubber Fuel Hose. Suitable for 100% gas, E85 or methanol fuels. Can withstand
up to 15 psi of pressure. 1/4" i.d. x 1/2" o.d. size.
|
||
 Straight Fuel Hose Fitting.
1/4" barbed fitting x 1/8" NPT male threads. Made of steel. Discontinued
from Kohler. L Replaces Kohler part # X-495-1.
|
 90º Fuel Hose Fitting.
1/4" barbed fitting x 1/8" NPT male threads. Made of steel. Kohler part #
25 155 02-S.
|
||
 Neoprene Rubber
Compression Sleeve for Metal Fuel Line. Replace dry-rooted or deteriorated
compression sleeve to prevent dangerous and hazardous fuel leak. Other parts
shown in drawing to the right have been discontinued from Kohler.
|
|||
 Fuel Hose
Upgrade/Conversion Kit
Do away with the old-fashioned sediment bowl/fuel filter and metal fuel line.
This upgrade/conversion kit includes 1/4" i.d. x 12" length reinforced black
fuel hose, small in-line fuel filter, one new straight 1/4" barbed fitting
x 1/8" NPT male threads fitting (threads into fuel tank), one new 90º
angled 1/4" barbed fitting x 1/8" NPT male threads fitting (threads into
carburetor) and four spring-type fuel hose clamps. This kit is for Kohler
engines with gravity feed and the fuel tank positioned higher than the
carburetor. The fuel hose is routed in a U-shape under carburetor. Filter
is to be installed just under fuel tank. An innovative concept by Brian
Miller, because nobody else advertise this kit.
|
|||
 Plastic In-Line Fuel Shut-Off
Valve. Alcohol resistant neoprene seal. Fits 1/4" i.d. fuel hose. No filter.
Lever rotates 90º OFF/ON position. Very durable. Use for leaky carburetor
or long-term storage to prevent carburetor leaks, and required by certain
pulling associations for safety. Our part # 24-1036.
|
 All Metal In-Line Fuel Shut-Off
Valve. Alcohol resistant neoprene seal. Fits 1/4" i.d. fuel hose. No filter.
Lever rotates 90º OFF/ON position. Use for leaky carburetor or long-term
storage to prevent carburetor leaks, and required by certain pulling associations
for safety. Our part # 24-1166.
|
||
 Fuel Tank-Mounted
90º Angle Fuel Shut-Off Valve with fine mesh screen filter. Used on
certain Kohler engine models CH15, CH22, CH23, CH680, ECH730, K91, K141,
K161, K181, K241, K301, K341, M14 and M20. Also universal replacement part
for Gravely, Lawn-Boy, Snapper, Tecumseh, etc. Threads into bottom of fuel
tank. Has 1/8" NPT mounting threads and fits 1/4" i.d. fuel hose.
|
|||
 Neoprene Rubber Fuel Tank Bushing (Grommet) for Cub Cadet
AQS (Quiet Line) models and Kohler Magnum engines. Fittings and valves below
Ê plugs into this. Use oil or grease
for easy installation into 33/64" hole on bottom of fuel tank. For competition
pulling only, in addition to the fitting below
Ê, this part can also be used as a fuel
return system in fuel tank when burning methanol or diesel fuels. Replaces:
AMF 42690; Ariens 07509300, 07511400; Bolens 1738433; Briggs Power Products
78299GS, 80269GS; Exmark 1-513645; Ferris 22151; Kohler 25 313 01-S; Lawn-Boy
104047, 708331, 46-6560; MTD 735-0149, 1738433, 935-0149, 1903198, 1902479,
GW-1738433, GW-B1738433, 581615; Murray 42690; Noma 44847; Scag 48309; Simplicity
1654930; Snapper 12337, 74158, 7012337, 7074158; Tecumseh 33679; Toro 46-6560,
1-513645, E513645; Wheel Horse/Toro 104047; 104047P.
|
|||
 L-Shaped Fuel
Tank Plug-In Fitting w/o filter screen or shut-off valve for Cub Cadet "Quiet
Line" models and Kohler Magnum engines. 1/2" fitting fastens in neoprene
rubber bushing (above È) in bottom of
fuel tank. Use oil or grease for easy installation. 1/4" fuel hose fitting.
Requires in-line fuel filter. For competition pulling only, in addition to
the grommet above È, this part can also
be used as a fuel return system in fuel tank when burning methanol or diesel
fuels. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-109042-C2 (except w/o shut-off valve).
|
|||
 L-Shaped Fuel Tank
Plug-In Shut-Off Valve w/o filter screen for Cub Cadet AQS (Quiet Line) models
and Kohler Magnum engines. 1/2" fitting fastens in neoprene rubber bushing
(above È) in bottom of fuel tank. Use
oil or grease for easy installation. 1/4" fuel hose fitting. Requires in-line
fuel filter. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-109042-C2 and Kohler part # 25
462 01-S (except w/o filter screen).
|
|||
 L-Shaped Fuel
Tank Plug-In Shut-Off Valve w/filter screen for Kohler Magnum Engines and
Cub Cadet AQS (Quiet Line) models and Kohler Magnum engines. 1/2" fitting
fastens in neoprene rubber bushing (above
È) in bottom of fuel tank. Use oil or
grease for easy installation. 1/4" fuel hose fitting. In-line fuel filter
not required. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-109042-C2 (except w/filter screen).
|
|||
 1/8" NPT x 1/8"
NPT x 3/4" length [close] steel pipe connector. Use to fasten fuel shut-off
/filter/sediment bowl assembly (below) to fuel tank.
|
|||
 Fuel
Shut-Off/Filter/Sediment Bowl Assembly. Replacement for many older lawn and
garden engines. Filters fuel and separates water from gas. Threads into bottom
of fuel tank. Dimensions: Overall height: 3"; Maximum width (not including
shut-off valve): 1-3/4"; Thread fittings: inlet (top) and outlet (side) are
both 1/8" NPT. Complete assembly no longer available from Kohler. Use fuel
hose upgrade/conversion kit (above È)
instead if you wish. Fits Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104,
105, 106, 107, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127 and 147. Replaces: Kohler A-210101
(discontinued L); Briggs & Stratton 293964,
295913, 295977, 296005, 393169, 690612; Clinton 293-32-500, 293-32-5; Gravely
010313; John Deere PT4337; Tecumseh 24449, 24459, 32164, 32439, 32984, 32984A,
34279, 34279A, 34279B; Wisconsin LP43.
|
|||
 O-ring seal for shut-off
valve shaft in fuel shut-off/filter/sediment bowl assembly above
È. Replace dry-rotted O-ring or leather
packing which can cause leaking fuel. Made of alcohol resistant
neoprene
rubber. Dimensions: 1/16" x 1/8" x 1/4".
|
 Fuel Shut-Off Valve for
Filter/Sediment Bowl Assembly above È.
Includes neoprene rubber O-ring seal.
|
||
 Sediment bowl gasket (seal)
for glass bowl on fuel shut-off/filter/sediment bowl assembly above
È. Made of alcohol resistant
neoprene
rubber.
|
 Fine Mesh Brass Screen
Filter/Strainer for Fuel Sediment Bowl Assembly above
È. 1-1/4" o.d.
|
||
 Replacement glass
bowl for fuel shut-off/filter/sediment bowl assembly above
È. Dimensions: 1-1/2" maximum width
x 1-1/8" height. Replaces: Briggs & Stratton # 298683; John Deere # PT4271.
|
|||
Pleated Air Filters and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters -
| If you need any of the parts or services listed below
Ê, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am
to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When
speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's
shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends (except Holidays).
Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. NOTE: To place
an order, please call either number above or send an email with a list and
description of the parts or services you need. Because as of right now, my
websites are not set up to accept orders online. |
|
|
|
 Pleated Air
Filters and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters for certain Kohler K-series
engine models K91 (4hp), K141 (6¼hp), K161 (7hp) and K181 (8hp).
Non-restricting flame retardant filter. Performance engineered for increased
breathing. Dimensions (±): 4-3/8" o.d. x 3" i.d. x 1-1/2" overall
height. Air filter: Kohler 230840-S; Cub Cadet 385163R2; Clinton 002-0233-00;
Gravely 20299; John Deere AM31034; Massey 1035-991-M1; Tecumseh 30804. Prefilter:
Kohler 234870-S; John Deere AM31034; Massey Ferguson 1035-991.
|
|
 Pleated Air
Filters and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters for certain Kohler K-series
engine model K181 (8hp) cast iron block flathead engines. Non-restricting
flame retardant filter. Performance engineered for increased breathing.
Dimensions (±): 4-3/8" o.d. x 3" i.d. x 2-5/16" overall height.
Air filter: Kohler 231847-S; Cub Cadet 548436R1; Gravely 15373; John Deere
AM30800; Tecumseh 31925; Onan 140-1188, 140-188; Rol Air 431. Prefilter:
Kohler 234869-S (K-series), 41 083 04-S (Magnum).
|
|
  Pleated Air Filter and Reticulated Foam Wrap/Prefilter for
Kohler engine models K181/M8 (8hp), K241/M10 (10hp), K301/M12 (12hp) and
K321/M14 (14hp) with the short
round air filter housing assembly. Non-restricting flame retardant filter.
Performance engineered for increased breathing. Dimensions (±): 6"
o.d. x 4-11/16" i.d. x 1-7/8" overall height. Air filter: Kohler 235116-S,
25 883 03-S1 (kit); Cub Cadet 385168R2. Prefilter: Kohler 237421-S (K-series),
45 083 01-S (Magnum).
|
|
 Pleated Air Filters and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters for
certain Kohler and Magnum engine models K241, K301, K321, K341, CH11-15,
KT17, KT19, and M18-20; for 18 thru 20hp engines with the
oblong-shaped air filter housing
assembly. Fits Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) series engines in Cub Cadet models
680, 1000, 1050, 1200, 1204, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450 and 1650. Non-restricting
flame retardant filter. Performance engineered for increased breathing.
Dimensions (±): 7" o.d. x 5-1/2" i.d. x 1-3/4" overall height.
Air filter: Kohler 47 083 01-S, 47 883 01-S1 (kit); Cub Cadet 117210-C1,
759-3547, 959-3547; Gravely 032494, John Deere M83646, Lesco 012596. Prefilter:
Kohler 52 083 01-S.
|
|
 Pleated Air Filters and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters for
Kohler engine models K341, CH18-25, CV18-22, KT17II, KT19II and M18-20; for
17 thru 22hp engines with the
oblong-shaped air filter housing
assembly. Fits Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) series engines. Non-restricting
flame retardant filter. Performance engineered for increased breathing.
Dimensions (±): 7" o.d. x 5-1/2" i.d. x 2-7/16" overall height.
Air filter: Kohler 47 083 03-S, 47 883 03-S1 (kit); John Deere M47494 (fits
JD models 200, 210, 212, 214, 216, 300, 312, 314, 316, 400); Woods 71803.
Prefilter: Kohler 41 083 04-S.
|
|
 Neoprene Rubber
Seal for Air Cleaner Cover to Base. Reduces air intake noise. For following
Kohler AQS AQS (Quiet Line) engine models K181, K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14,
K341/M16, K532 and K582. 28-1/4" length x 1/2" wide. NOTE: A 3/16" i.d.
automotive vacuum hose or fuel hose can be split open lengthways and be used
instead. OEM Kohler part # 47 032 03-S.
|
 Neoprene Rubber Tube for
Air Cleaner Base to Flywheel Housing. Reduces air intake noise. For following
Kohler AQS AQS (Quiet Line) engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16,
KT17, M18, M20, K532 and K582. OEM Kohler part # 47 134 02-S.
|
 Pleated Air Filters and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters for
certain Kohler engine models M8 (8hp), K321/M14 (14hp), K341/M16 (16hp),
MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20 with the
tall round air filter housing
assembly. Can also
be used on a garden pulling tractor, mini rods, hot rods, race cars, etc.
with an automotive engine. Non-restricting flame retardant filter. Performance
engineered for increased breathing. Dimensions (±): 6" o.d. x 4-11/16"
i.d. x 3" overall height. Air filter: Kohler 45 083 02-S, 45 883 02-S1
(kit); Cub Cadet 759-3359. Prefilter: Kohler 45 083 01-S.
|
|
 Pleated Air
Filters and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters for certain Kohler engine models
K241 (10hp), K301 (12hp), K341 (16hp), K482 (18hp), K532 (20hp) and K582
(23hp) with the tall round
air filter housing
assembly. Can also
be used on mini rods, hot rods, race cars, etc. with an automotive engine.
Non-restricting flame retardant filter. Performance engineered for increased
breathing. Dimensions (±): 6" o.d. x 4-3/4" i.d. x 4" overall
height. Air filter: Kohler 277138-S. Prefilter: Kohler 277593-S.
|
|
| NOTE: Air filters and prefilters are available for many other makes and models of engines. If you need something that's not listed here, please contact me with your engine model and spec numbers and I'll see if I can get it at a reasonable price. | |
Information About the Carburetor Extension, Spacer, Intake Tube, Stand-Off, (or whatever they may be called) -
Spacing the carburetor
away from the engine block allows the fuel to atomize better (break down
into smaller particles) so the engine will produce more power and torque
at higher RPM. The further the carburetor is spaced, the better the fuel
will atomize.
When choosing the length of an intake tube, it seems that a 3" length works best for gas, and 5" length works best for E85 or methanol. Because gas runs more lean than E85 or methanol, it requires less space or distance to fully atomize, and being E85 and methanol fuels run richer, they need more space or distance to fully atomize before they enter the combustion chamber.
For competition pulling, if no [long] intake tube is to be used with the carburetor, a heat isolator gasket will work great. (Manufactured of heat-resistant phenolic resin.) The heat isolator gasket isolates the carburetor from engine heat so the fuel will atomize better (break down into smaller particles) before it enters the combustion chamber, which will help the engine produce more power and torque.
Also for competition pulling, with a carburetor extension in use, mounting gaskets are not necessary. Just resurface the ends of the extension (if needed) and carburetor mounting flange on a flat sanding belt or disc sander to remove warpage and restore flatness (use eye protection!), and then apply a thin bead of Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant with no gasket. When the bolts or nuts (on studs) are tightened, the softness of a gasket could cause the carburetor flange to warp and possibly break. With no gasket, there will be metal-to-metal contact with the silicone filling in the open gaps between the two metals, and there is NO WAY the flange can warp or possibly break! By the way - I've always preferred to use Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant for three reasons: Gaskets don't always seal the irregularities between mating metals, especially thin metal covers; being it's an adhesive, it bonds parts together, forming a leak-proof seal; and being it's clear, it makes for a clean and professional-looking repair job. When applied sparingly, it can't be seen between the parts.
Advertisement:
If you need a quality carburetor extension for your 16hp Missouri
Super Stock pulling engine, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises
| 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am
to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When
speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's
shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends (except Holidays).
Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. Go here for more parts:
Carburetor, Fuel System Parts & Machine Shop
Services | NOTE: To place an order, please call or send an
email with a list and description of the parts or services you need. Because
as of right now, we're not set up to accept orders through our web
sites.
6"
Length Steel Carburetor Extension. Atomizes fuel better at higher RPMs so
engine will produce more power and torque. Works equally well with gas or
methanol fuels. Works just as well as a billet aluminum extension! 1.25"
inside diameter tubing.
|
Use a Bigger Air Filter
on a Pulling Engine -
If an engine has a carburetor with a bored-out venturi, bigger ports, bigger valves, a big cam and it runs at wide open throttle, then it will definitely benefit from use of a bigger air filter. All of these things will undoubtedly allow an engine to draw in a lot more air at high RPM. If rules require that the engine must have an air filter, stack two air filters on top of each other (install a longer mounting stud, too), or use an OEM K341/K361 or opposed (flathead) twin cylinder air filter housing assembly (they're twice as tall than the 10, 12 or 14hp air filter) or install a velocity stack and use an aftermarket K&N air filter. The bigger air filter is so free-flowing and less restrictive, using an air filter this size would the same as not using an air filter all. The shorter 10, 12 or 14hp air filter housing assembly is too restrictive for wide open throttle operation. But if it's a basically stock engine with a stock carburetor, stock size ports and valves, and a stock cam, there'll be very little gained with a bigger air filter. If you pull on a lot of dusty tracks, then it would be worth investing in an air filter to save wear on the engine.
How to repair stripped air cleaner base mounting threaded holes in the
Carter, Kohler #26, #28, #30 or Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors when
the holes are too big for Heli-Coil thread inserts or even 12-24 UNC screws.
(It takes some expert mechanical skills to make this work. I have done this
many times and it works great.) - An ingenious and innovative concept
by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this repair method.
Parts needed:
Several inches of 1/4-20 UNC
mild steel threaded rod. If the holes in the carburetor body are already
1/4", then use 5/16-18 UNC mild steel threaded rod. (All Thread,
long threaded rod or long threaded bolt.) NOTE: 5/16" is the maximum
that can fit.
1/4" x 2"+ long solid aluminum
rod.
When removing the choke shaft, there's a tiny
(1/8" or 5/32") steel ball and small compression spring located at the 9:00
position when facing the choke end with the float area down. When the choke
shaft is removed, hold one finger over the screw hole and end of the choke
shaft hole to prevent the ball and spring from popping out and possibly getting
lost. By the way - the ball and spring is required for hand-operation of
the choke to keep it in the open position on stand-alone engines, such as
on a garden tiller, portable generator/welder, portable air compressor, portable
water pump, etc. If choke is remotely solid wire cable-operated, such as
in a tractor, then the ball and spring isn't needed.
Heat from the drilling process may cause the threadlocker material to loosen,
which could cause the insert to thread down in the choke shaft hole. To prevent
the insert from unthreading, insert the 1/4" aluminum rod through the choke
shaft holes so the insert will bottom out against the aluminum. Allow the
drill bit to penetrate the aluminum slightly to go the full length of the
insert. And to lessen the chance of overheating the threadlocker material
when drilling the hole, use plenty of cutting oil, and drill slowly into
hole(s) with a 5/32" drill bit, then finish with the 11/64" bit. Use sharp
(preferably new) drill bits, too.
Advertisement:
| If you need the air cleaner mounting threads repaired in your carburetor,
please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd.
| Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am
to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When
speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's
shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends (except Holidays).
Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. Go here for more parts:
Carburetor, Fuel System Parts & Machine Shop
Services | NOTE: To place an order, please call or send an
email with a list and description of the parts or services you need. Because
as of right now, we're not set up to accept orders through our web
sites.
Repair stripped 10-32 UNF air filter housing mounting threaded hole(s). $10.00 - $20.00 for parts and labor. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this repair service. |
Never Over-Tighten the Mounting Bolts or Use Multiple Gaskets When Fastening the Carburetor to the Engine!
When installing the carburetor
to an engine, the use of two or more gaskets and then torquing the mounting
bolts to specs, or just over-tightening the bolts will severely warp the
mounting flange on a carburetor, causing it to bend, which will create a
vacuum leak, or worse yet, being cast aluminum don't bend or flex too easily,
the flange could break. See photo to the right.
à So remember, before installing
any carburetor, first resurface the mounting flange on a flat
sanding belt or disc sander to remove warpage and restore
flatness, and for general yard use, install just one thin (.030" thickness)
gasket or one (3/16" thickness) heat isolator gasket. And use the "two-bolt
torque" procedure! To do this, lightly tighten the first bolt, then lightly
tighten the second bolt. And tighten the first bolt securely, and then tighten
the second bolt securely.
If a Carter/Kohler or Walbro carburetor body is broken and/or damaged beyond repair, the carburetor body is 100% scrap metal. (If the threads for the float bowl retaining bolt are stripped, read below. ) But the parts on the carburetor body are considered valuable and can be used on another carburetor body that's in good condition (if some of the parts are in fact reusable). Parts such as: throttle and choke shafts and plates, choke friction (detent) ball and spring, idle speed adjusting screw and spring, idle fuel mixture screw and spring, high speed main fuel needle adjuster and spring, high speed main jet/nozzle, fuel inlet valve and seat (if not worn and leaks fuel), float, float pin, float bowl, neoprene rubber O-ring seal, fuel baffle splash shield, bowl retaining screw, and fuel hose fitting. The OEM (US) manufacturers are phasing out many parts for flathead engines due to EPA smog emissions. But some parts may still be available in aftermarket.
How to Repair Stripped Float Bowl Retaining Bolt Threads in a Carter/Kohler
or Walbro Carburetor - An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian
Miller, because nobody else mentions these type of repairs.
But if the threads
for the float bowl retaining bolt are stripped in a Carter #16, #18, #20,
#22 carburetor, an 8mm fine thread (M8 x 1.25 pitch) metric bolt can be used.
But if the metric threads become stripped, then a 3/8-24 UNF bowl retaining
bolt (for the Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 or Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG
#52, #60, #64 carburetors) can be used. For the 8mm metric bolt, an 8mm x
1.25
bottom hand tap will need to be used. But for a 3/8-24
bolt, the stripped hole will need to be enlarged with a 21/64" drill bit
(be careful not to drill into the high speed main jet; there's no need to
remove the high speed main jet/nozzle), and new threads will need to be cut
perpendicular to the carburetor body with a 3/8-24 UNF
bottom hand tap. A bottom tap cuts the threads deeper with
very little taper at the end. Do not complete the tapping process with just
a taper or plug tap because the threads may not go deep enough for the bigger
bolt. However, the threads can be started with a taper or plug tap, but will
need to be finished with the bottom tap. Then use [150± psi] compressed
air to thoroughly clear out the metal drilling/cuttings from the high speed
main jet/nozzle and entire carburetor! A 3/8" i.d. fiber washer will need
to be used with the 3/8" bolt, and the hole in the float bowl will need to
be drilled out to 3/8" to match the bolt in the carburetor, or use a float
bowl with a 3/8" hole. And do not over-tighten the metric bolt to prevent
from stripping the new threads. If the metric threads strips out, the carburetor
body is scrap metal.
If the threads for the float
bowl retaining bolt are stripped in a Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30, Walbro
WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 or virtually any other carburetor that
use a 3/8"-24 UNF float bowl retaining bolt, a 10mm fine thread (M10 x 1.25
pitch) x 3/8" thread length bolt can be used. If a 3/8" length metric bolt
can't be found, a longer bolt that's made of mild steel can be machined down
(shortened) in a metal lathe. Being the stripped hole is already large enough
for the M10 x 1.25 threads to be cut, so it won't need to be drilled out.
But if it does need drilling out (enlarging), use an 8.8 mm or 11/32" drill
bit (be careful not to drill into the high speed main jet; there's no need
to remove the high speed main jet/nozzle), then new threads will need to
be cut perpendicular to the carburetor body with a M10 x 1.25
bottom hand tap. A bottom tap cuts the threads deeper
with very little taper at the end. Do not complete the tapping process with
just a taper or plug tap because the threads may not go deep enough for the
metric bolt. However, the threads can be started with a taper or plug tap,
but will need to be finished with the bottom tap. Then use [150± psi]
compressed air to thoroughly clear out the metal drilling/cuttings from the
high speed main jet/nozzle and entire carburetor! Also, the holes in the
fiber washer and in the float bowl for the retaining bolt will need to be
enlarged to 13/32" to match the bolt in the carburetor. And do not over-tighten
the metric bolt to prevent from stripping the new threads. If the metric
threads strips out, the carburetor body is scrap metal.
On a used (and supposedly clean) carburetor, if the float bowl
retaining bolt will not effortlessly tighten against the float bowl to secure
it in place, DO NOT FORCE THE BOLT TO TIGHTEN! Doing this may cause the thin-wall
metal to split, possibly rendering the carburetor useless. The
resistance in threading the bolt in the hole is caused by debris "gumming
up" the threads in the carburetor body (or in the threads of the bolt).
Instead, clean the threads in the carburetor body with a 3/8-24 UNF BOTTOM
hand tap, then use 150± psi compressed air to clear out the debris.
With a bottom tap, there's no need to remove the main jet/nozzle. But if
the protruding part where the float bowl bolt threads into does split or
is previously cracked, a flat, spring-loaded,
tight-fitting fuel hose clamp can be installed over the protruding part
with the opening in the clamp opposite the crack. This will add strength
to the aluminum when the bolt is tightened. This will prevent the crack from
spreading when the bolt is tightened. Then grind the protruding tangs flush
with the clamp so they won't interfere with the operation of the float. The
clamp will become a permanent part of the carburetor. Be sure that no part
of the clamp blocks off the fuel feed holes, too. If one hole gets blocked,
the other hole will still allow plenty of fuel to enter through the main
jet. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because
nobody else advertise this type of repair.
Advertisement:
| If you need the repair service provided below, please contact A-1
Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO
65203-9136 USA | Phone:
1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday
(except Holidays), 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try
again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends
(except Holidays). Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for
your arrival. Fax:
1-573-449-7347. E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. Go here for more parts:
Carburetor, Fuel System Parts & Machine Shop
Services | NOTE: To place an order, please call or send an
email with a list and description of the parts or services you need. Because
as of right now, we're not set up to accept orders through our web
sites.
Repair stripped threads in float bowl retaining bolt hole for Carter #16, #18, #20, #22, Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 or Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this repair service.
|
Fabricate a Foolproof Type of Foot-Operated Spring-Loaded Throttle Return Control Setup on a Pulling Tractor - Top of page
For a fancy and noticeable gas pedal, install a chrome-plated,
die-cast aluminum "barefoot" pedal. These were popular in the late '60s to
early '70s as a nostalgic item used mainly on street rod and hot rod vehicles.
They're available on
eBay. Use a medium size household brass door hinge to
fasten the pedal to the foot rest on the tractor.
When using a Carter or Kohler
carburetor, a spring-loaded throttle control is a safety feature because
the engine will idle down as soon as the driver lets off the gas pedal, just
like in an automobile. But with the OEM-type, manually-operated sliding solid
wire throttle control, the driver must quickly reach for the throttle lever
to idle down the engine. Many club's rules (including the
HRGTPA's rules) state
that a spring-loaded throttle control must be used for safety, either hand-
or foot-operated (hand lever or foot pedal). All Mikuni carburetors have
a built-in spring-loaded throttle return.
When using the sliding stranded cable housing to operate the
throttle, for the cable to slide back and forth in the housing with less
friction, pull the inner cable from the housing (with one end [ball] cut
off), and use a
chainsaw bar tip grease gun to pump a small amount of lubricant
inside the housing so the inner cable will operate much smoother and last
longer. But before reinstalling the cable in the housing, to prevent the
end of the cable from unravelling,
singe
the end of the cable with a
propane torch or an
oxy-acetylene torch with a small, blue flame, or use
electrical solder and
soldering gun to bind the wires together (make sure the
cable is absolutely clean), and then grind down the lump [of metal or solder]
so the cable can be inserted in the housing and wire swivel easier.
To fabricate the steel rod throttle
linkage and levers, run a 3/16" diameter steel rod from the pedal, up to
a bellcrank (lever), then fasten the lever to a 5/16" diameter steel rod.
Run the rod through the steering column support and then fabricate another
bellcrank (lever) on the other end of the 5/16" rod (other side of the tractor),
and connect that to another 3/16" diameter steel rod which goes forward and
attaches to the throttle lever on the carburetor.
I made our own bellcranks (or levers) from 1/2" x 1/8" x about 2" length mild steel. I simply drilled a hole in each end (3/16" and 5/16") and clamped one end of the lever with a locknut on the 5/16" rod so I can loosen the nuts to make adjustments as necessary, and the other hole in the lever is for the 3/16" rod. Install a lightweight return spring from the pedal to the tractor frame. And look your tractor over to determine where the holes should be drilled through the steering column support. Just don't drill the holes where the steering column will be in the way. This setup cannot be used with Mikuni carburetors because Mikuni carburetors are stranded cable-operated only.
If fabricated correctly, and properly installed and adjusted, I believe that this type of throttle control is absolutely the best design. There's very little wear to the moving parts and it will never fail on virtually any tractor. It works much better and with less friction than the stranded cable design. There's no sliding stranded cable that can bind, fray and eventually break, causing one to lose a good pull. And being virtually all tractors are different in design, I offer no kits for these. You'll have to fabricate your own. And the reason foot pedals are more popular than hand throttles is because both hands are needed on the steering wheel to control the tractor as it's going down the track.
Oh, and if you've ever wondered what a "dead man's throttle" is, it's a spring-loaded hand lever or foot pedal throttle control that automatically returns the throttle plate to the idle position when the pressure is released. It works the same as the gas pedal in a car.
Wide Open Throttle Sliding Stranded Cable Control Setup for 10-16hp Kohler Engines - (Changed 5/29/16)
This proven and well thought-out design allows the sliding stranded cable to be connected to the carburetor from the exhaust end of the engine, with the cable housing mounted well above the hot header pipe. This design places less pressure and friction on the throttle shaft/bushing, which reduce wear. NOTE: Remove the inner stranded cable from the housing, and use a chainsaw bar tip grease gun to pump a small amount of lubricant inside housing so the cable will slide easier with less friction. Return To Previous Paragraph | Top of page
Repairing the carburetor on an older 3hp, 3.5hp or 4hp Briggs & Stratton engine with either a Vacu-Jet or Pulsa-Jet diaphragm carburetor - Top of page
First of all, don't believe all factory-trained, brain-washed technicians. Because sometimes one must improvise to make something work. And despite what the service manual says, using a large, flat file to make the warped surface of a carburetor and/or fuel tank flat again will not hurt anything if a skillful person does it and if he/she knows what they're doing. B&S wants to make more money by selling new parts. That's why they write their manuals the way they do. Remember the old saying: "A fool and their money are soon parted." B&S probably laugh all the way to the bank after making a sale, too.
The Vacu-Jet carburetor operates off of engine vacuum to delivery fuel to the engine. (The very first Vacu-Jet carburetors have a manual choke, and no diaphragm. The second design Vacu-Jet carburetor uses a diaphragm, and have a manual choke. The third design Vacu-Jet uses a diaphragm and has an automatic choke.) And the Pulsa-Jet has a built-in fuel pump to delivery fuel to the engine. Both of the [newest design] Vacu-Jet and Pulsa-Jet carburetors have an automatic choke. If either of these carburetors run rich on fuel, and the choke will not open after starting, what has happened is where the carburetor is fastened to the fuel tank, these two "mating surfaces" has become warped. This is caused by over-tightening of the air filter housing screw. To fix this...
How to Repair the Vacu-Jet (3hp) or Pulsa-Jet (3.5 or 4hp) Automatic Choke Carburetor on a Vertical Shaft Briggs & Stratton Flathead Engine -
Remove the carburetor and
fuel tank from the engine as a unit.
How to Repair the Pulsa-Jet Carburetor on a Vertical or Horizontal Shaft 5hp Briggs & Stratton Flathead Engine -
If a 5hp B&S engine has excellent spark and adequate compression, but doesn't run right, then the problem is obviously in the carburetor. To fix the problem...
Install a new fuel pump
diaphragm, carburetor-to-tank gasket and carburetor-to-block gasket, set
the fuel mixture adjustment screw about 1-½ turns out, and make the
final adjustment after the engine runs.
How to clean the high speed main jet in a 16hp/18hp flathead opposed (flathead) twin cylinder Briggs & Stratton engine -
The high speed main jet is located in the float bowl of the carburetor. To access and clean it...
Your engine should rev up without using the choke afterwards! This may have to be done every few years because these type of carburetors are notorious for having tiny particles of dirt/debris that passes through the fuel filter settle at the bottom of the float bowl. The high speed main jet is real close to the bottom of the float bowl too, which allows dirt/debris to clog it over time.
Advertisement:
| If you wish to have your Kohler stock or pulling engine
dyno-tested, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W.
Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am
to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When
speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's
shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends (except Holidays).
Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest.
A-1 Miller's Fully Computerized Stuska Water Brake Engine Dynamometer (Dyno) Service!
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à Return to Main Pulling Tips Page | Return To Previous Page | Reputable Garden Pulling Tractor Engine Builders, Parts Suppliers and Service Providers | Hot Links to Reputable Garden Tractor Pulling Clubs and Associations | Top of Page
Copyright © 1996-Present. Designed and maintained by Brian Miller.
8-32 UNF x 3/8" thread length
Phillips Head Screws. Use to fasten air filter housing base to Carter #16,
#18, #20, #22 and Walbro WHL #44 carburetors.
10-32 UNF x 3/8" thread length
Phillips Head Screws. Use to fasten air filter housing base to Carter/Kohler
#26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors.
10-32 UNF x 1/2" thread length
Stainless Steel Hex Socket (Allen) Head Screws. Use to fasten velocity stack
to Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 or Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors. (For
competition pulling only.)
3-48 UNC size. For repairing
OEM threads in Carter/Kohler throttle and choke shafts. $8.00 each,
plus shipping & handling.
$117.85 each, plus
shipping & handling.
$156.60 each, plus
shipping & handling.
"Old School"
Technology High Performance Stock-Appearing Carburetor Modifications
- Bore out and rework YOUR #26, #28 or #30 Carter/Kohler carburetor
for use with Gas, E85 or Methanol fuels. Carburetor is modified internally
to improve engine performance. $85.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling.
Extra charge if any parts are needed. Work includes what's listed above
È plus whatever parts and services it
may need that's listed below.
New
Walbro WHL #44 carburetor with adjustable high speed main jet. Comes with
throttle linkage, mounting and air filter housing gaskets. OEM Walbro/Kohler
part #'s 41 853 07-S, 41 853 11-S. $347.95 each outright, plus shipping
& handling.
New Walbro WHG #52 carburetor
with adjustable high speed main jet. Comes with throttle linkage, mounting
and air filter housing gaskets. NOTE: Has choke lever for the
New Walbro WHG #60, #64 carburetor
with adjustable high speed main jet. Comes with throttle linkage, mounting
and air filter housing gaskets. NOTE: Has choke lever for the
Rebuilt, outright with no core
trade-in. Genuine OEM Kohler #26 fully adjustable carburetors for Kohler
engine models KT17, KT17II, KT19, KT19II, M18 and M20 (horizontal shaft engines,
without anti-backfire shut-off valve). Please indicate if the choke lever
needs to be in the downward or upward swing position. $125.00
each, plus shipping & handling. [When available.] NOTE: Please
don't discard your Carter/Kohler carburetor core. If not rebuildable, certain
parts can be reused on a good core. (The OEM [US] manufacturers are phasing
out many parts for flathead engines due to EPA smog emissions. But some parts
may still be available in aftermarket.)
Walbro #52 carburetors with
adjustable high speed main jet. Comes with throttle linkage, mounting and
air filter housing gaskets. Available for the following engines. Please
indicate if the choke lever needs to be in the downward or upward swing
position.
Float Bowl O-Ring Seal for Walbro
carburetors. Dimensions (±): 2-3/8" i.d. x 2-1/2" o.d. x .065" thickness.
Square cross-section. Fits Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors
that's used on Kohler Magnum engine models M8 (8hp), M10 (10hp), M12 (12hp),
M14 (14hp), M16 (16hp), MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20 single- and twin-cylinder
flathead cast iron block engines. Made of alcohol resistant
Also fits Briggs and Stratton
7hp-12hp vertical shaft engine carburetors. Dimensions: 2-3/8" o.d. x 1-1/4"
height x 3/8" bottom hole. The dimensions of the aftermarket and
B&S anodized steel float bowls are exactly the same as the aftermarket
and Kohler aluminum float bowls. Either are interchangeable. The steel bowl
is better quality because it won't dent or corrode through.
Float bowls for Walbro WHL #36,
#44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors used on Kohler Magnum engine models
K141, K160/K161, K181/M8 (8hp), K241/M10 (10hp), K301/M12 (12hp), K321/M14
(14hp), K341/M16 (16hp), MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. 2½" outside
diameter. Each made of dent-proof, anodized, corrosion-resistant steel.
3/8" i.d. Float Bowl Retaining
Bolt Fiber Sealing Washer. Fits Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHL
#36, #44, and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors. Included with the Carter/Kohler
carburetor overhaul kit.
Idle Fuel Mixture Adjuster Screw
for Carter/Kohler #26 carburetors with 1.07" throttle bore used on Kohler
K-series engine models K241 (10hp), K301 (12hp) and K330/K331 (12½hp).
Designed specifically for Kohler carburetors with following numbers stamped
on mounting flange: 47 053 07, 47 053 08, 47 053 12, 47 053 13, 47 053 14,
47 053 15, 47 053 16, 47 053 24, 47 053 29, 47 053 35, 47 053 40, 47 053
62, 47 053 80, 52 053 60. Long step tip. Dimensions: .925" overall length
x .260" tip length x 7-40 threads.
Idle Fuel Mixture Adjuster Screw
for Kohler carburetors used on Kohler KT-series engine models KT17, KT17II,
KT19, KT19II, and models K482, K532 and K582. Designed specifically for Kohler
carburetors with following numbers stamped on mounting flange: 48 053 06
(K582), 52 053 09, 52 053 18, 52 053 28. Long tapered tip. Dimensions: 1.026"
overall length x .404" tip length x 7-40 threads.
Compression Pressure Spring
for Idle Fuel Mixture Adjuster Screws above
È used on Carter/Kohler carburetors.
Idle Speed Adjuster Screws for
Carter #16, #18, #20, #22, Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHL or
WHG carburetors. Dimensions: 8-32 UNF x 1" length.
Compression Pressure Spring
for High Speed Main Fuel Adjusters (below
Ê) used on all Carter #16, #18, #20,
#22 and Carter/Kohler #26, #28 or #30 carburetors.
High Speed Main Fuel Mixture
Needle Adjuster Screws for Carter #16, #18, #20 and #22 carburetors that's
used on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161 and K181. The two parts
below Ê are identical in every way, except
200410-S is for Carter carburetors having the following numbers stamped on
top of carburetor body: A-230798, A-231966, B-231231, B-231450, B-231469,
C-231738, E-231480, E-231488, E-231489, F-230350, F-230502, G-220517, G-230500,
231287, 24588, 41 053 06, 41 053 13, 41 053 14. And Kohler parts look up
says that 200410-S is for Carter carburetors having the following numbers
stamped on top of carburetor body: A-231741, A-234641, C-231738, B-231739,
41 053 01, 41 053 04, 41 053 05, 41 053 06, 41 053 18, 41 053 20. IMPORTANT
- Please check numbers on carburetor before ordering and go here to identify
the correct part for any particular carburetor:
High Speed Main Fuel Mixture
Needle Adjuster Screw for certain Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors
used on Kohler K-series and early Magnum flathead engine models K241, K301,
K330/K331, K321, certain K532 and certain K582. Has four holes midway and
two lower holes on stem. Designed specifically for Kohler carburetors with
following numbers stamped on mounting flange: 47 053 07, 47 053 08, 47 053
12, 47 053 13, 47 053 14, 47 053 24, 47 053 29, 47 053 35, 47 053 40, 47
053 62, 47 053 80, 48 053 06 (K582). IMPORTANT - Please check numbers on
carburetor before ordering and go here to identify the correct part for any
particular carburetor:
Idle Fuel Mixture Adjuster Screws
for all Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors used on Kohler
Magnum engine models M8, M10, M12, M14, M16 and opposed (flathead) twin cylinder
engine models MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20. NOTE: The adjusters below
Ê have the same threads and ends (tips).
The only difference is the type of head.
High Speed Main Fuel Mixture
Adjuster Needle Valve. Fits all Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64
carburetors w/adjustable high speed jet originally used on flathead cast
iron block Kohler Magnum single cylinder engine models M8-M16 and opposed
(flathead) twin cylinder models MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20. Overall length:
1-5/8".
8-32 UNF Allen set screw. Use
to plug factory-drilled idle fuel passageway holes on top/center of carburetor
when OEM cup plug is removed for carburetor cleaning. Cut short threads in
holes with an 8-32 UNF hand tap to install.
3mm Cup-Type Expansion Plug
or 
5/16" Concave-Type Expansion
Welch Plug. For atmospheric vent (air passageway from outside the carburetor
to the float bowl area); located top of #36, #44 Walbro carburetors. OEM
Walbro part # 88-54-8. .50¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
3/8" Concave-Type Expansion
Welch Plug. For idle circuit; located side of Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30,
Walbro #52, 60 & 64 carburetors and at an angle on Walbro #52, #60, #64
carburetors. OEM Walbro part # 88-180-8. .50¢ each, plus shipping
& handling.
Carburetor Mounting Screws (Bolts)
w/Slotted Head for Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64
carburetors used on Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K330/K331, K321/M14,
K341/M16 and K361. Use small screwdriver in slot to start screws in threaded
holes. Size: 5/16-18 UNC x 1" thread length.
Short, Flat Bronze Throttle
Shaft Bushing for all Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 and early Walbro #52, #60,
#64 carburetors with a counterbore that's used on Kohler K-series and early
Magnum engine models K241/M10 (10hp), K301/M12 (12hp), K330/K331 (12½hp),
K321/M14 (14hp), K341/M16 (16hp), K361 (18hp OHV) and KT17, KT17II, KT19,
KT19II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20. If there's a [worn] rubber seal in the
counterbore, this bushing will replace it. Dimensions: 1/4" i.d. x 7/16"
o.d. x 1/8" height. NOTE: Apply clean motor oil
Professionally machine YOUR
carburetor body and install bronze sleeve bushings for worn choke shaft holes
and reinstall original choke shaft (if not excessively worn).
Throttle plates for Carter
#16, #18, #20, #22 and Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetors with .822" diameter
throttle bore.
Convert a Carter #26, #28 or
#30 carburetor with the cast aluminum clamp-on throttle lever to the Kohler-style
throttle shaft design. Kit consists of the Kohler-style throttle shaft w/hole
in lever (below), brass 8-32 UNC (idle speed) screw, and compression spring
for the idle speed screw. INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS: The steel pin will need
to be ground off flush with the top of the carburetor body (don't attempt
to break it off, the aluminum will break instead), and the carburetor body
will need to be drilled in a specific location with a 9/64" drill bit and
Throttle Shaft w/Slightly Raised
Lever for Walbro WHG #52 or Kohler #26 carburetors used on Kohler vertical
shaft engine models MV16, MV18 and MV20. 1/4" diameter hardened bronze shaft
with steel lever. Comes with 3-48 UNC stainless steel screws and split lock
washers. No threadlocker required. Lever has a 3/16" hole for throttle
bushing/linkage. NOTE: To be used with Kohler 25 146 02-S (Walbro # 34-112)
throttle plate. Apply clean motor oil 
Choke Shaft w/"Upward Swing"
Lever for Kohler engine models KT17, KT17II, MV16, M18, MV18, MV20 with Kohler
#26 or Walbro WHG #52 carburetor. 1/4" diameter hardened bronze shaft with
steel lever. Overall shaft length: 2-5/8". For carburetors with following
numbers stamped on mounting flange: 52 053 18, 52 053 21, 52 053 27, 52 053
32, 52 053 34, 52 053 47, 52 053 51, 52 053 54, 52 053 55, 52 053 59. Comes
with 3-48 UNC stainless steel screws and split lock washers. No threadlocker
required. NOTE: The choke shaft for the KT-series Kohler carburetors have
been discontinued. L This one is made
by Walbro and designed for Walbro choke plates in a Walbro carburetor. If
used in a Kohler carburetor, the holes in the Kohler choke plate may need
to be elongated to align with the threaded holes in this shaft. And apply
clean motor oil 
5/32" Diameter Choke Friction
(Detent) Ball for Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors. NOTE: The ball
and spring is required for hand-operation of the choke to keep it in the
open position on stand-alone engines, such as on a garden tiller, portable
generator/welder, portable air compressor, portable water pump, etc. If choke
is remotely solid wire cable-operated, such as in a tractor, then the ball
and spring isn't needed.
1/8" Diameter x 5/16" length
Choke Friction (Detent) Compression Spring for Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetors.
NOTE: The ball and spring is required for hand-operation of the choke
to keep it in the open position on stand-alone engines, such as on a garden
tiller, portable generator/welder, portable air compressor, portable water
pump, etc. If choke is remotely solid wire cable-operated, such as in a tractor,
then the ball and spring isn't needed. Also, the 1/8" diameter x 1/2" length
spring for the Carter and Kohler #16, #18, #20, #22, #26, #28, #30 carburetors
have been discontinued by Kohler. L This
1/8" diameter x 5/16" length spring can be used in these carburetors with
an 1/8" diameter x 3/16" length solid spacer placed under spring. (An
1/8" diameter x 3/16" length Allen set screw makes an excellent spacer.)
5/32" Diameter x 1/2" length
Choke Friction (Detent) Compression Spring for Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64
carburetors. NOTE: The ball and spring is required for hand-operation
of the choke to keep it in the open position on stand-alone engines, such
as on a garden tiller, portable generator/welder, portable air compressor,
portable water pump, etc. If choke is remotely solid wire cable-operated,
such as in a tractor, then the ball and spring isn't needed. Also, this spring
replaces the 1/8" diameter x 1/2" long spring (discontinued by Kohler
L) for the Carter and Kohler #26, #28,
#30 carburetors. It is to be used with the 5/32" ball. The detent hole in
the carburetor will need to be drilled out to 5/32" to accommodate this bigger
spring and ball. Be careful not to drill the hole deeper, just make it bigger
in diameter.
Wingnut with 1/4-20 UNC threads.
Cast aluminum locking wingnut w/nylon insert; will not rust or loosen under
normal conditions. Recommended for side-mounted air cleaner covers and battery
hold-down studs. High quality aftermarket. $1.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
NOTE: To clean the foam
prefilter, use cleaning solvent (paint thinner) and [150± psi] compressed
air, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not add oil. Oil is not recommended
for use in foam prefilters because some of the oil could get drawn into the
paper element while the engine is running, partially clogging it.
For performance testing engines
up to 200hp at speeds up to 12,000 RPM. The only engine dyno service in Missouri
for Kohler pulling engines! Now set up and fully operational in our shop,
every competition pulling engine that we build will be dyno-tested, fine-tuned
and adjusted on our Stuska water brake dynamometer with data logger before
it leaves our shop to make sure it is producing maximum horsepower and torque,
or customers can rent dyno time and make adjustments or changes to their
engines and print-out the results. Proposed Engine Dyno Rental Fee:
$50.00 per hour run time. No setup fee for Cub Cadet engines with
a 3- or 6-pin/stud clutch driver. An adapter may need to be needed or fabricated
for other makes and models of engines.