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Information About Various Small
Engine Carburetors and Fuel Systems
Serving the Small Engine and Garden Tractor Pulling Community Since
1996. Where Science and Common Sense Come Together for Safety and Improved
Engine/Tractor Performance.
A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises
- Parts & Services Online Catalog
This page was updated 7/18/20. (Click Refresh to see changes or updates.) Optimized for 1024 x 768 screen resolution. Easy and simple to use website. To search for a word or phrase in any of my websites, press CTRL and F to open the Find dialog box in your web browser. Although every effort has been taken to check the accuracy of information contained herein, I cannot assume responsibility for errors.
There's a cheater in every sport, and competition tractor
pulling is no different. Honest pullers who ignore the cheater(s) are fools.
And when there's prize money involved, a fool and their money are soon parted.
Anyway, to make competition pulling a fun and fair sport for the entire family,
be protective of your equipment! While at the pulls, keep an eye on your
carburetor and fuel shut-off valve! When a
competitive or winning pulling tractor is left alone, it's been known that
certain disgruntled pullers
(sore losers 
) belonging
to various associations/clubs, virtually anywhere and everywhere, will turn
the high speed air/fuel adjuster one way or the other, or close the
fuel shut-off valve to keep the engine from
running at it's full potential, or from running at all. This is one of the
easiest, dishonest and sneaky ways to retard or disable and sabotage a
competitor's tractor. All a cheater needs is an opportunity in an attempt
to gain an advantage on the track. This is also the fastest way for a pulling
association or club to gain a bad reputation and lose honest pullers. (Bad
news travels fast.) This type of dishonest behavior doesn't happen often,
but you need to be prepared if or when it does happen. To be prepared for
this unforeseeable event, it'll be a good idea to cover the entire carburetor
with a
drawstring bag, or better yet, cover the entire tractor
with a canvas or heavy blanket.
Keep an eye on your
killswitch plug, too! Always try to stay one step ahead of a
cheater.
Use a Remote Fuel Primer System to Start a Cold Engine
- An ingenious, thoroughly researched and innovative concept
by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise the use of this system for
use on a lawn and garden tractor.
[Top of Page]
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Website.
If a Carter and Kohler carburetor (or virtually any type of float carburetor) that's used on a lawn or garden machine, or pulling tractor don't have a choke plate assembly installed, but does have an air cleaner/filter assembly, or an air filter with a velocity stack, and if the engine have to be "hand choked" to start it, then you probably already know how hard it is to get your hand sealed over the entire velocity stack or end of the carburetor, and also have a wet hand from the raw fuel afterwards. The remote fuel primer system installed will prevent this. Having a small hose connected to the atmospheric vent opening (air passageway from inside the float bowl area to outside of carburetor) in the carburetor is a lot safer than having raw fuel spilling out of the drilled hole on the side of the carburetor when pulling! An inexpensive and safe way to get extra fuel in the throttle bore to start a cold engine is to use a remote fuel primer system. This system can also be adapted for use on ordinary garden tractors, lawn and garden equipment or virtually any type of small engine equipment with virtually any type of float-type carburetor. This system is similar to the same set up that many small engine manufacturers use on their engines nowadays. Works great with pump gas, race gas, E85 or alcohol fuel. Can be used on most lawn & garden small engine equipment, garden pulling tractors, recreational vehicles, etc.
NOTE: If an engine is hard to start, even with the choke plate fully closed and tuned correctly, then it may need a professional valve job performed and valve clearances reset. The reason some older engines is hard to start is because the valve faces, especially the intake valve, wears slightly away against the valve seat, and this causes the clearance between the valve stem and lifter to be lessened, which will prevent the valve(s) from fully closing to trap adequate compression in the combustion chamber [so the engine can start easier]. This remote fuel primer system will not fix this type of problem.
How the Remote Fuel Primer System Works: The fuel primer bulb on a snowblower engine connects directly to the float bowl and takes place of the atmospheric vent hole in the float bowl. The bulb itself has a small atmospheric vent hole. When the bulb is compressed (small atmospheric vent hole sealed), this creates air pressure within the bulb, tubing and float bowl, which force fuel up through the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube), creating a slight flooding condition in the throttle bore. Thus, helping a cold engine without a choke plate start much easier. With this system, the engine cannot be "over-choked," which could foul the spark plug. The fuel primer system can also be used as a manual accelerator pump when an engine hesitates to rev up on its own.
With the original atmospheric vent opening (air passageway from inside the float bowl area to outside of carburetor) in the carburetor plugged, a short brass tube is inserted into a drilled hole in the float bowl area on the side of the carburetor body, and with a small fuel hose connecting the carburetor to the primer bulb assembly, which is mounted on the steering column support pedestal.
How to Install and Use My Remote Fuel Primer System:
Remove the carburetor from the
engine, remove the float bowl and float.
FYI - Most [cold] engines will not start when fuel is introduced directly into the combustion chamber through the spark plug hole. Doing this only results in a flooding condition and the engine may not start. Gas (or starting fluid) needs to be mixed with incoming air through the carburetor intake so the air can atomize the fuel (break down into a fine mist) to burn more thoroughly so the engine will be able to start quicker.
When removing the choke shaft, there's a tiny
(1/8" or 5/32") steel ball and small compression spring located at the 9:00
position when facing the choke end with the float area down. When the choke
shaft is removed, hold one finger over the screw hole and end of the choke
shaft hole to prevent the ball and spring from popping out and possibly getting
lost. By the way - the ball and spring is required only for hand-operation
of the choke plate to keep it in the open position on stand-alone engines,
such as on a garden tiller, portable generator/welder, portable air compressor,
portable water pump, etc. The ball and spring is not needed if the choke
is remotely operated with a choke cable, such as on a garden tractor, etc.
Advertisement:
If you would like to purchase any of the parts or
services listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136
USA |  Phone: 1-573-256-0313
(shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please
speak slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am
to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When
speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
 E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. When
you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with
the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to the
public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate our business our business to other property with a bigger
and better shop so we can hire more help and provide many more high quality
parts and professional services.)
|
Identification of Carter and Kohler Carburetors -
(Corrected and updated 3/11/21) The types of carburetors that's used on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8 are as follows:
The Carter
Model N #13 and #16 carburetors are designed specifically for Kohler
engine model K90 and K91 (which are the same engine), and certain low RPM
K141 engines. The throttle bore measures .810" diameter and the venturi is
.542" diameter. When used on a Kohler engine model K141, K160/K161, K181
or M8, due to the smaller throttle bore and restrictive venturi, and velocity
of air that's required, the bigger engine will not produce full power at
3,600 RPM. (It'll be the same as using a small 2-barrel carburetor versus
a big 4-barrel carburetor on an automotive engine.) This carburetor came
on various other makes and models of engines, too. It was a popular carburetor
for its time. Measure the throttle bore with a
dial or digital caliper, and measure the venturi with a
plug gauge, such as a deep-well socket or round tubing of the right outside
diameter. The original Kohler (originally Carter) part numbers for this
carburetor are: A-220100, A-220574, A-220745, A-220777, C-220777, E-220517,
F-220762, F-230501, D-220451, G-220517, 46 053 03-S. Being this carburetor
is no longer made in the USA; Kohler part # 46 853 01-S), its replacement
is the Walbro WHL #36 or the aftermarket Carter-replicated Chinese-made
carburetor.
The "Made in China" Aftermarket
Carter Model N-Replicated Carburetor is an alternative universal low
cost carburetor that can be used on Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161,
K181 or M8. The throttle bore in this particular carburetor measures .811"
diameter and the venturi is .588" diameter. Due to the larger size of the
venturi, this carburetor may not work correctly on the K90/K91 engines.
Irrelevant Carter/Kohler part number(s).
FYI - When Edelbrock bought out the [automotive division of] Carter Carburetor Corporation sometime before 1984, Carter sold their line of small engine carburetors to Kohler Engines in 1985. Kohler changed the throttle lever on the Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20 and #22 carburetors, but for some reason, retained the Carter name on them. And on the bigger Carter #26 and #30 single cylinder engine carburetors, Kohler redesigned (and actually improved) the throttle shaft with an integrated lever, and made slots for the mounting holes in the carburetor body for easier installation and removal on/from the engine block. Everything else remained the same on the Carter and Kohler carburetors, with the exception of the throttle levers and various choke levers. Six different variations of the Carter or Kohler carburetors was made for the Kohler K-series K241 through K361 engines, KT-series, and the K482, K532 and K582 engines. NOTE: Please don't discard your Carter or Kohler carburetor core. If not rebuildable, certain valuable parts can be reused on a good core. (The OEM (US) manufacturers are phasing out many parts for flathead engines due to EPA smog emissions. But some parts are still available in aftermarket.)
The size number (diameter of
throttle bore) for the Carter or Kohler carburetors is embossed inside the
upper part of the choke end, just above the venturi. But not all Kohler
carburetors have a number embossed. In this case, the throttle bore (throttle
plate area) will need to be measured to determine the exact size of the
carburetor. The size number refers to the amount of air that can flow through
the carburetor.
The carburetor with 26 embossed in the choke end has a 26mm or 1.07" diameter throttle bore. (26mm converts close to 1.070"). The carburetor with 28 embossed in the choke end has a 28mm diameter or 1.17" throttle bore. (28mm converts close to 1.170".) And the carburetor with 30 embossed in the choke end has a 30mm or 1.200" diameter throttle bore (30mm converts close to 1.200".) For precision, when measuring the throttle bore to determine the size, it's best to use a dial or digital caliper.
FYI: Some people advertise online that the carburetor for Kohler engine models K241/M10 and K301/M12 can also be used on the K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 engines. But I know for a fact that if the K241/M10 and K301/M12 carburetor is used on a K321/M14, K341/M16 or K361, which produces 14hp, 16hp and 18hp, respectively, with the correct carburetors, would produce about 12hp, 14hp and 15hp, and make less torque, because the engine would be drawing less air through the smaller carburetor to produce not as much compression. I guess the seller don't know the difference between these carburetors, because they look virtually identical on the outside. Or maybe the seller figures what most people don't know, makes them more money.
The carburetors used on Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 are different. They may appear the same on the outside, but be very different on the inside. The K241/M10 and K301/M12 engines require a carburetor with a 1.07" throttle bore and venturi that measures .812" diameter. The K321/M14 engines requires a carburetor with a 1.2" throttle bore and venturi that measures .937" diameter. The K341/M16 engines requires a carburetor with a 1.2" throttle bore and venturi that measures 1.000" diameter. And the K361 engine requires a carburetor with a 1.250" throttle bore and venturi that measures 1.062" diameter. If the wrong carburetor is used on any particular engine, the engine may not run right and not produce full power. The carburetors that's used on various models of Kohler engines are as follows:
Also, after 1985, Kohler gave
the K321 engine a larger 1-3/8" exhaust valve and made the intake port larger
in diameter. These are engines with specification suffix "D" and later. The
larger exhaust valve , bigger intake port and bigger #30 carburetor allows
for more air to enter and exit out of the combustion chamber so the engine
will produce full 14hp at 3,600 RPM. By the way - The early K321 engine with
the small intake port and small exhaust valve make a good stock 4,000 RPM
competition pulling engine, but the later K321 engine with the big intake
port and big exhaust valve make an excellent high RPM competition pulling
engine.
There's another #30 carburetor
designed specifically for the Kohler engine model K582. The throttle shaft
is positioned horizontally and the idle fuel mixture screw is directly on
top of the carburetor body instead of at an angle on the side. This OEM Kohler
carburetor is discontinued from Kohler L, but
is available in aftermarket as the Kohler-replicated Chinese-made fully
adjustable #28 carburetor with a 1.17" throttle bore
J. FYI: Lots of people advertise online
that the carburetor for the K482 and K532 can also be used on the K582. But
I know for a fact that if the K482 and K532 carburetor is used on the K582,
which produces 24hp with the correct carburetor, would produce about 21hp
and make less torque, because the engine would be drawing less air through
the smaller carburetor to produce not as much compression. I guess the seller
don't know the difference between these carburetors, because they look virtually
identical on the outside. Or maybe the seller figures what most people don't
know, makes them more money.
By the way - the part number of all Kohler-made and Walbro carburetors are stamped on the right side of the mounting flange. Don't refer to the numbers just below the fuel inlet port. They represent nothing that I know of. Click here to identify a Kohler or Walbro carburetor and matching parts: Kohler Carburetor Reference Manual TP-2377-E.pdf. (require Adobe Acrobat Reader and use Google Chrome web browser for a faster download of websites with large files.) If there's no numbers anywhere on the carburetor body, then it's definitely an aftermarket Chinese-made carburetor. Because Carter, Kohler and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on the flange of all their carburetors.
Airflow / CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) -
FYI - The throttle bore in the Carter or Kohler #26/1.07" carburetors can be bored to 1.17" (#28 size) or 1.2" (#30 size), and the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube) will still bottom out against the throttle bore, and of course, a 1.17" or 1.2" throttle shaft and plate would need to be used. But the boring process will break through the idle fuel mixing well (the idle progression holes and the welch plug hole) that's next to the throttle plate. Modifications to this area would need to be made by threading in an 1/8" Allen pipe plug where the welch plug is (or was), and drilling and installing a small brass or copper tube from the idle fuel mixture adjuster screw down into the float bowl, next to the float, with enough clearance so it won't interfere with the movement of the float. A 1/4-28 UNF x 3/4" thread length bolt will also need to be installed where the high speed air/fuel needle adjuster is (was) to block off a vacuum leak to will occur with the modifications of the idle air/fuel mixing well. Actually, it would be MUCH easier and less cost effective to just convert either a Carter or Kohler #28 or #30 carburetor for high performance use and not having to do anything to modify the idle fuel passageway.
Boring-out of the venturi in the carburetor alone will not help to increase engine performance. To increase the overall airflow in and out of the combustion chamber for improved engine performance, and if sanctioning club's rules allow this, the intake (and exhaust) port runners must be enlarged, too. This is called "porting an engine." The [stock size] valves will also need to be reworked and undercut to increase airflow. Or larger reworked and undercut valves and a cam with more lift and duration will need to be used.
For competition pulling, carburetor design and size depends on port sizes, valve sizes, if the intake valve and seat have 30º/31º angles and undercut heads, and the cam profile (lift and duration) is important. If an engine has stock ports, valves and cam, a plain stock carburetor can be used. But if the ports and valves have been reworked for more airflow, and a bigger cam is going to be used, then a bored-out carburetor with a .995" or 1" venturi can be used for best performance. A bored-out venturi and reworked carburetor is when the carburetor is modified for maximum performance for general yard and garden use, and/or for competition pulling.
The 26mm carburetor obviously has a smaller throttle bore. Therefore, is restricted as to how much air can flow through it, even with the venturi removed. It'll work excellent on a hot K241 or mild K301 engine, but the larger 28mm and 30mm carburetors flows more air, 7.7% more for the 28mm, and 15.5% more for the 30mm. Which are ideal for a hot K301 and larger engines with porting, polishing, bigger valves and a big cam. If you feel that a single 30mm carburetor won't flow enough air for your particular engine, then either a "Super Carb," Dellorto, Mikuni, S&S Super D or a twin Kohler carburetor setup (on a "Y" intake) should be used. If you have a K321 Kohler engine, and you can't find a #28 or #30 carburetor, then a Carter or Kohler #26 carburetor will work just fine for general lawn and garden use. Personally, I ran a stock Kohler #26 on the K321 Kohler engine that's on my 6,000 lb. self-propelled pulling sled for 10 years and the engine didn't lack any power whatsoever.
Identification and Information About Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 Carburetors -
The Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64
carburetors originally come on all Magnum engines. These carburetors are
direct replacements for the Kohler carburetors. The Walbro #52 carburetor
has a throttle bore diameter of 1.07" and is designed for use on models K241/M10,
K301/M12, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20
and MV20 engines. And the Walbro #60 or #64 carburetor have a throttle bore
diameter of 1.2" and is designed for the K321/M14, K341/M16 engines, and
being the 1.25" Kohler carburetor that was originally designed for the K361
engine is longer available, the only option is to use the Walbro #60 or #64
carburetor.
The older Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors are reliable and they seem to last a long time before requiring service. Most older Walbros are worth rebuilding, because the float valve seats are made of hardened solid bronze, which is actually harder than cast iron. They were manufactured back in the day when most business owners took pride in their products and offered their customers a quality product.
But the newer Walbro carburetors, especially the ones that come on recently-built aluminum block small air-cooled engines, are notorious for leaking gas after several years of use. Although overhaul/rebuild carburetor kits are available, it really does no good to rebuild them and install a new fuel inlet valve because the float valve seat is made of soft brass, which erodes with use due to microscopic particles of dirt/debris that pass through the filtering material in the fuel filter, and in most Walbro carburetors, the seat is not replaceable. The fuel inlet seat in older Walbro carburetors are made of hardened compressed bronze, which is actually harder than cast iron. There is no indication or records of when Walbro made the change from the hard seat to the soft seat.
The fine mesh filter screen
and filtering material in fuel filters can only block certain size of dirt
and debris from entering the carburetor. Any extremely tiny particles that
can pass through the fuel filter will build up in the bottom of the float
bowl and can eventually clog the main fuel jet. Lightweight and suspended
particles in the fuel of the float bowl gets sucked up through the main jet
and is burned in the combustion chamber. The best way to remove built-up
stuck and stubborn debris from inside the float bowl is to use a 2" brass
wire cup brush (shown to the right) with a hand-held power drill, and then
use 150± PSI compressed air to clear out the debris from the main jet
hole and clear out the entire float bowl area of the carburetor. On very
rare occasions, a hair can pass through a fine mesh fuel filter screen and
become lodged (trapped) between the float valve and inlet seat, causing the
carburetor to slightly flood with gas. When this happens, the hair can be
successfully removed with 150± PSI compressed air and the same float
valve and seat can be reused because chances are, they will not be damaged.
To put it in plain English: If your Walbro carburetor doesn't leak gas out the choke end, but need an overhaul/rebuild, then it may be worthwhile to install a new kit. But if it does leak gas, then I doubt that a new float valve will fix the problem. Your only options are: install a fuel shut-off valve and turn off the fuel every time the engine is not in use, or install a rebuilt Carter or Kohler K-series carburetor.
About 90% of small engine carburetors are manufactured by Walbro nowadays, and I don't think that one is better than the other. The trick to getting the soft brass seat (and needle/float valve) to last longer is to use a fuel filter with a very fine mesh or pleated paper element. The finer, the better. Because it's the microscopic dirt/debris/grit that passes through the filter that causes the seat (and needle/float valve) to erode and wear. And every pressed-in brass seat that I've replaced ALWAYS leaked gas. There's just no way to get them to seal with the carburetor body, not even with high strength liquid thread locker.
The only problem using a Walbro on a pulling tractor or for high performance application is they can't be bored-out or modified in any way because the throttle bore wall (where the venturi is located) is too thin. Therefore, they're limited to how much air can flow through them. The US government EPA laws required that Kohler and all other small engine manufacturers redesign their carburetors so the engine will produce less air pollution. So they started using a redesigned emissions-controlled, EPA-approved Walbro carburetor with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet. This is to prevent people from setting the air/fuel ratio too rich and create more air pollution. The older-designed Walbros that have an adjustable main jet, which is located on the lower right side of the carburetor, are still available new. main jets of various sizes are available for most carburetors with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet so the engine will run correctly depending on the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine will be used.
A small engine with a fixed, non-adjustable high speed main jet carburetor is supposed to run at a maximum of 3,200 RPM. If the RPMs is set higher, the air/fuel mixture will lean out (too much air and not enough fuel), resulting in the engine overheating, which will eventually cause the cylinder head to burn-out, or premature wear to the piston and rings, resulting in the engine burning oil. The way around this is to drill out the high speed main jet a few thousandths of an inch to give the engine more fuel. But only do this if it's absolutely necessary! If an engine lacks sufficient power at 3,200 RPM, then it obviously needs a professional valve job performed and/or major tune-up.
(Added 7/18/20) If a small engine cylinder head is burned out (usually close to the exhaust valve), if it's burned out where the gasket seals, as long as there's no cracks in the head, it can be successfully welded up, machined flat, the bolt hole redrilled and be put back into service. The following items are what causes cylinder head burn-out...
Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors work great for ordinary lawn and garden equipment, general lawn work and they're perfect for basic stock low RPM/low performance pulling tractors with an engine that's governed to a maximum of 3,200 RPM with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet, or at 3,600 RPM with an adjustable main jet. A carburetor with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet is limited to just 3,200 RPM and should never be operated faster for an extended length of time. Although the venturi cannot be bored-out on a Walbro, they work equally as well as the older Carter or Kohler carburetors when used on a stock engine. The main jet in the newer Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors are calibrated at the factory to provide the engine with just the right amount of fuel at 3,200 RPM. Therefore, the fixed/non-adjustable main jet inside the carburetor cannot be replaced with an adjustable one.
Advertisement:
| If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services
listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises
| 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. When
you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with
the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to the
public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate our business our business to other property with a bigger
and better shop so we can hire more help and provide many more high quality
parts and professional services.) |
|
If a small engine cylinder head is burned out (usually close to the exhaust valve), as long as there's no cracks in the head, it can be successfully welded up, machined flat, the bolt hole redrilled and be put back into service.
|
|
 High
Quality Inductive Handheld Small Engine Wireless Tachometer. For
gas/spark ignite engines only. Very accurate. This handheld analog tachometer
works great for checking/setting the RPM on various small engines in the
shop, and/or for checking/setting the RPM [tech] on stock governed engines
at pulling events, ATVs/UTVS, etc. Hold sensor (antenna) close to spark plug
wire for reading. Operates off a self-contained replaceable 9 volt battery.
Has built-in battery voltage check. Reads up to 5,000 RPM on the low scale,
and 15,000 RPM on the high scale.
|
|
 High Quality Inductive
Small Engine Tachometer and Hour Meter. High quality and very accurate.
Large 3/8 inch LCD display. Works with all spark ignition engines by selecting
engine type using S1 and S2 buttons. Instructions included. Tachometer reads
up to 99,999 RPM. Hour meter reads up to 9999:59 hours/minutes. Can be manually
reset to Zero hours. Programmable maintenance hour setting with service icon,
a reminder when to change oil or other service. Easy installation: Single
wire wraps around spark plug wire and secured with two supplied nylon zip-ties.
No wire terminal connections required. Tachometer can be surface-mounted
and secured with two screws. Has built-in battery rated up to 4 years. Sealed
unit; weather and water resistant. Dimensions: 2" wide x 1-3/4" depth x 3/4"
height.
|
|
 High Quality
Digital Tachometer/Proximity Sensor Kits. Will work with small engines
or automotive engines, gas or diesel. Very accurate. Designed to be permanently
mounted to monitor engine RPM at all times. This precision digital tachometer
operates with external power and on the same principle as my
crank trigger ignition
with a proximity sensor to detect a target, which can be a small ferrous
steel screw or pin, or magnet in a rotating disc or on/in flywheel. A sturdy
steel or aluminum bracket will need to be fabricated by customer to mount
the sensor in close proximity of the detector/trigger target. Set air
gap/clearance at .010"-.188". Tachometer can be dash- or panel-mounted.
Tachometer works with 8-24 volts DC, proximity sensors works with 6-36 volts
DC. Tachometer can be dash- or panel-mounted. Tachometer works with 8-24
volts DC external power, proximity sensors works with 6-36 volts DC external
power. Dimensions of each proximity sensor below: 15/32" (12mm) diameter
x 1-3/8" thread length. Some proximity sensors have an LED (Light Emitting
Diode) on the rear of unit. If the proximity sensor is wired incorrectly,
the LED will stay on and go off when activated. Displays up to 9,999 RPM.
Very accurate. Tachometer returns to zero [0000] when power is turned off.
Wiring Instructions: #1 wire on tachometer connects to brown wire on (either)
proximity sensor and ignition switch (battery positive (+) post), #2 wire
on tachometer connects to blue wire on (either) proximity sensor and
engine/chassis ground (battery negative (–) post), and #5 wire on tachometer
connects to black wire on (either) proximity sensor. Wires #3 and #4 connects
to nothing. Wiring can also be integrated with
crank trigger ignition
with a proximity sensor. Choice of
RED or
BLUE numeric display.
|
Carter or Kohler or Walbro Fully Adjustable main jet Carburetors VS. Walbro Fixed/Non-Adjustable Main Jet Carburetor RPM to Horsepower Specs -
Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors with a fixed/non-adjustable main
jet are designed with emission controls in mind to run leaner to create less
air pollution. However, the main problem with most Walbros having a
fixed/non-adjustable main jet is during cooler weather operation. During
cool weather, and running at 3,200 RPM, the engine will sometimes run too
lean on fuel and operate erratically. To fix this, first of all, make sure
the hole (orifice) in the main jet is not partially clogged. If it is, use
a
carburetor jet cleaner wire set or an
oxy-acetylene welding torch tip cleaner to clear any debris
that may be lodged in the hole. Then use 150± PSI compressed air to
clear out any dirt/debris. If the engine still runs too lean on fuel, simply
enlarge the hole (orifice) in the main jet a few thousandths of an inch.
Then use 150± PSI compressed air to clear out any metal particles. Be
careful not to enlarge the hole (orifice) in the main jet too much, or the
engine will run rich on fuel! The hole (orifice) diameter in the OEM
factory main jet for 100% gasoline is 3/64" (.047"). If necessary, enlarge
the main jet and fuel inlet holes with a #55 (.052") drill bit. That's a
.0052" difference. After doing this, for cool weather, the engine should
run better, last longer and produce more power. But don't enlarge the hole
(orifice) in the main jet too much! A too big of a hole (orifice) will cause
an engine to run too rich on fuel, making it blow black smoke out the exhaust
and possibly fouling the spark plug. If the hole (orifice) is made too large,
the carburetor will be useless for gasoline, and E85 fuel must be used. But
if an engine is going to be used only during warm weather and if it runs
okay [during warm weather], don't enlarge the hole (orifice) in the main
jet.
On the newer carburetors with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet, the hole (orifice) in the main jet may need to be enlarged .002"-.003" to give the engine a little more fuel so it'll run better at higher RPM. Otherwise, the engine could "burn up" or wear out prematurely due to the lean air/fuel mixture. I have an assortment of tiny drill bits that I use on our customer's lawn & garden equipment carburetors.
A new-style
Walbro carburetor with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet should never be used
on a non-governed (wide-open throttle) engine or on an engine that's going
to turn at 3,200 RPM! The reason for this is because if an engine operates
faster with a carburetor having a fixed/non-adjustable main jet, it'll run
too lean on fuel at high RPM (it'll draw much more air than fuel), which
will cause the combustion chamber to overheat and the excessive heat will
likely damage the piston and rings and possibly warp the cylinder head and/or
exhaust valve or even crack the cast iron engine block.
A lean fuel mixture can also melt away part of the
aluminum in the combustion chamber of an aluminum block engine.
The size number on the Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors is embossed inside the carburetor and can be seen by looking inside the upper part of the choke end, just above the venturi. A "52" carburetor has a 26mm diameter throttle bore, which converts closely to 1.024 inches (26 ÷ 25.4 = 1.024"), but actually measures 1.07".
And being the venturi in the
old-style Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors used on Kohler
engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161 and K181 can't be bored-out either,
the only option for pulling competitively with these is to fabricate an adapter
to fasten to the intake port on the engine block and use a #52 Walbro or
#26 Carter or Kohler carburetor.
The best way to determine which engine any particular carburetor is made for is to measure the diameter of the throttle bore. Because a set of numbers that's stamped on the carburetor body mean nothing, not even to Kohler Engine dealers. If a carburetor measures .822" (13/16"), then it's designed for the K141, K160/K161 or K181 engines. If it measures 1.07", then it's for the 10hp or 12hp engines. And if it measures 1.17" or 1.2", it's for a K321, K341 or K361 engine.
The Wrong Type of Choke Lever!
Whenever I get a carburetor with the choke lever in the wrong position, if
it has a steel choke shaft, I just grind the lever off at the flare and weld
it back on the shaft in the right position. But if it has a brass shaft,
I use a steel choke shaft out of a junk carburetor. Or if I don't have a
used one in stock, I machine a steel choke shaft from a 1/4" mild steel rod.
Like the old saying goes: "There's more than one way to skin a cat."
The Choke Shaft Detent Ball and Spring -
When removing the choke shaft, there's a tiny
(1/8" or 5/32") steel ball and small compression spring located at the 9:00
position when facing the choke end with the float area down. When the choke
shaft is removed, hold one finger over the screw hole and end of the choke
shaft hole to prevent the ball and spring from popping out and possibly getting
lost. FYI - The detent ball and spring are only required for hand-operation
of the choke plate to keep it in the open position on stand-alone engines,
such as garden tillers, portable generators/welders, portable air compressors,
portable water pumps, etc. If choke is operated by a sliding remote wire
cable control, such as on a garden tractor, then the ball and spring isn't
required and will serve no purpose whatsoever.
Installing the choke shaft over the friction (detent) ball can be tricky. This is how it's done:
Place the carburetor on a sturdy
work bench or table with the choke end facing upward and the float area facing
toward you, or gently clamp it in a bench vise.
How to adjust the fuel mixture screws on a Kohler (or virtually any small engine) fully adjustable carburetor - [Top of Page]
First of all, if the engine runs well at idle and at higher RPM, don't worry about how the idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustment screws are set. Carburetor adjustments depend on the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine will be operated. In higher elevations, air is thin or less dense. Therefore, the engine requires more air than fuel to run well. But in lower elevations, air is heavy or dense, and because of this, the engine requires less air than fuel. So there is obviously no "one set adjustment" for all carburetors in all areas. And no new or rebuilt carburetor with adjustable jet(s) for small engines, automotive or whatever, come from the manufacturer or rebuilder with the idle speed, idle air/fuel mixture or the high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments set correctly. This is true for ordinary lawn and garden, and all small engines, and pulling engines alike, with the exception of [Walbro] carburetors with the fixed/non-adjustable high speed jet.
How the Idle Fuel Passageway Works in the Carter and Kohler Carburetors -
On the Carter or Kohler (and Walbro) carburetors, the hole towards the bottom of the long main needle adjuster is supposed to be open and not clogged, so the engine can draw fuel through it for idling from the float bowl. The idle fuel passageway for a Carter or Kohler carburetors goes as follows: Fuel is first drawn through the lower end via the tiny hole(s) (orifice) on the high speed needle adjuster, then through engine vacuum, fuel is drawn up through the tube, and over and down toward the idle air/fuel mixture screw (which sets at an angle), and then fuel is drawn into the throttle bore, next to the throttle plate. The information below Ê is mainly for Carter or Kohler carburetors. The fuel mixture screws are used as follows:
Use a
1/32" high speed steel spiral drill bit to enlarge
the lower hole (orifice) on high speed needle air/fuel adjuster screws in
Carter or Kohler #26, #28 and #30 carburetors to create more suction through
the tube for the fuel so the engine will start quicker (when throttle is
in idle position), idle better, and idle down upon deceleration without stalling.
No need to use this on adjusters with two lower holes. NOTE:
Carefully enlarge the hole by hand with drill bit clamped in a
mini micro pin vise hand drill chuck. Be careful when handling
any tiny drill bit because they can break easily. After enlarging hole, use
150± PSI compressed air to clear out any metal cuttings from inside
the adjuster tube. An ingenious, thoroughly researched and innovative concept
by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this.
Many times when cleaning a Carter or Kohler carburetor, the
welch plug that's on the side of the carburetor doesn't need to be removed.
The only time it needs to be removed is when the tiny fuel feed hole that's
next to the throttle plate becomes clogged with dried gas or debris. To clear
this hole, with the idle air/fuel mixture screw and the high speed needle
adjuster removed, thread a 1/4-28 UNF screw/bolt in place of the high speed
needle adjuster (this will place more air pressure against the idle fuel
feed hole), apply 150± PSI compressed air in the idle mixture screw
hole, and place your finger inside the throttle bore over the fuel feed hole,
and if you feel air come out of the hole, the hole is cleared out. If air
does come out of the idle fuel feed hole, then the welch plug will need to
be removed and manually cleared out with a
carburetor jet cleaner wire set or an
oxy-acetylene welding torch tip cleaner. A new welch plug
will need to be installed.
Why Won't a Kohler Engine Start (When Hot or Cold) with the Throttle Plate and Choke Plate in the Open Position?
If an engine blows black smoke out the exhaust while running, then here are the main causes:
Black exhaust smoke is when an engine is getting too much gas and/or not enough air in the combustion chamber. The causes for this are either... (listed from most common to rare causes)
Also, sometimes flooding of the carburetor will deposit gas in the motor oil, but only in a vertical shaft engine. Because gas can't seep into the crankcase on horizontal shaft engines. The cause of the problem is the carburetor is flooding. The gas seeps past the piston ring gaps and into the crankcase. To fix this, clean the float valve (needle and seat) in the carburetor, or install a new carburetor overhaul/rebuild kit with a new float valve needle and seat. Also, clean out the fuel hoses with 150± PSI compressed air and install a new fuel filter. And then the oil will need to be drained and fresh motor oil installed.
The Cause of Slight Carburetor Flooding or "Loading Up on Fuel" at Slow Idle with a High Performance/Long Duration Camshaft -
Sometimes when using a high performance/long duration camshaft, regardless if the engine has a stock or modified carburetor, if the engine idles for a long period of time, it may run rich on fuel at a slow idle speed. What causes this is with a long duration cam, intake vacuum is low and with a single cylinder engine, being the valves stay open longer, excess fuel builds up in the carburetor and/or intake tube. All engines with a long duration camshaft have lower than normal vacuum at slow idle. The longer the duration a cam has, the lower the vacuum. What causes excess fuel to build up in the intake is the long duration of the cam lobes holds the [intake] valve open longer, and at slow idle, pressure of the piston moving upward in the cylinder blows some of the air/fuel back into the carburetor and/or intake tube. And as the engine is revved up, raw unburned fuel black smoke (gas) will blow out the exhaust pipe until the fuel is cleared out of the carburetor and/or intake tube. With the engine running well above idle, air becomes trapped within the combustion chamber and the piston don't have time to push any air/fuel back into the carburetor and/or intake tube. This happens with all types of fuels and there's nothing that can be done about it. It's the nature of the long duration camshaft. Some might think when this happens that there's something wrong with the carburetor, and nothing can be done to the idle fuel passageway to prevent this. Just make a simple adjustment with the idle air/fuel mixture screw, set the engine at a fast idle and don't allow the engine to idle for a long period of time. [Return To Previous Paragraph, Section or Website]
The Major Causes of Carburetor Flooding -
FYI - I don't put any additives in my gas. I think it's a waste of money and effort, and gives false hope. I filter out the dirt and remove any water from the [somewhat fresh] left-over gas that's in my customer's small engine equipment, and dump it in my personal car or truck so it will mix with the fresh gas that's already in the tank. Then I always use fresh/purchased gas with no additives in my customer's small engine equipment.
What prevents most carburetor and fuel system from having problems when using gasoline is to run the engine out of fuel or draining the entire fuel system if it's not going to be used for more than 30 days at a time. If there's no fuel left in the system, then there should be no problems. The following causes are listed from most common to rare.
If fuel drips out of or from the carburetor...
Fuel leak at the carburetor float
bowl rubber O-ring seal. Only happens when engine is in operation. Circumference
of float bowl not sealing tight against the
neoprene
rubber O-ring seal and fuel baffle/splash shield in carburetor body.
If gas constantly pours out of the carburetor...
The best way to remove built-up
stuck and stubborn debris from inside the float bowl is to use a 2" brass
wire cup brush (shown to the right) with a hand-held power drill, and then
use 150± PSI compressed air to clear out the debris from the main jet
hole and clear out the entire float bowl area of the carburetor.
If the carburetor on an engine
has been setting for some time without an air cleaner/filter assembly, and
if gas pours out of the carburetor only when cranking the engine, especially
with a mechanical fuel pump, then the gas stops pouring out when the engine
isn't cranked, check for a clogged atmospheric vent opening (air passageway
from inside the float bowl area to outside of carburetor) in the carburetor.
Sometimes a
mud dauber (wasp-like insect) will build their nest in
a place like this. (I've seen this happen a few times with my customer
carburetor rebuilds.)
What makes crankcase oil black is blow-by due to either worn piston rings, carburetor flooding or the engine running rich on fuel (gas). And if there's gas in the oil (you can smell the presence of gas), this means there's a hole in the diaphragm in the mechanical fuel pump. Being there are no fuel pump repair kits available nowadays, an either good used or new replacement fuel pump is required.
How to Separate Gasoline from Water -
No need to dispose of fresh gas just because it's contaminated with water (and/or dirt and debris). And with the price of gas nowadays, this would be a wise thing to do.
Gasoline and alcohol fuels
are both extremely flammable! Use caution and don't smoke, avoid making sparks
or don't have an open flame exposed when working near or with either of them.
Work in a well-ventilated area, too.
By the way - We've been to a lot of garden tractor pulls through the years and noticed that some pulling tractors leak fuel in places where a fuel leak shouldn't be. Therefore, I think the safety inspections should include checking the fuel hoses for dry-rotting, cracks, fuel leaks, loose fittings, etc. (The tractors should have sturdy wheelie bars, too.) The inspectors should grab hold of the fuel hose(s) with their hand, bend it and slightly jerk on it to check for durability. This is very important. Especially in a kid's class. Don't wait until a small issue becomes a major problem, then turn in to a catastrophe. If a pulling club's sanctioning safety rules are enforced, and pullers would build their tractors right and maintain them regularly, there wouldn't be any injuries, fires, or fear of a fire. Click or tap here to read more about a garden pulling tractor catching on fire.
If an engine won't idle or idles poorly, if it's a Carter or
Kohler carburetor, chances are, there's old, dried gas inside the high speed
air/fuel needle adjuster stem/tube. To fix this: first, enlarge the lower
hole with a 1/32" drill bit. Then use a small,
bendable steel wire, such as a
bread wrapper wire twist tie with the coating stripped
off, to clean out inside the tube. Then use the 150± PSI compressed
air to thoroughly clear it out. Suck through the tube with your mouth to
make sure it's clear and unclogged. If performing this won't clear out the
tube, then acquire a new high speed air/fuel needle adjuster screw or one
in good condition. But make sure it's the correct adjuster for your particular
carburetor! (This is how I clear these out whenever I rebuild a Carter or
Kohler carburetor and it works great. I rarely replace the high speed adjuster
with a new one.)
If an engine idles slow when the throttle lever is held to the slowest position by hand, but refuses to idle down on its own, the following may be the causes:
But if an engine idles well, but runs only at higher RPM (up to 3,200 RPM with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet; or 3,600 RPM with an adjustable main jet) with the choke partially closed, or if it surges or hesitates to rev up, this means the engine is running too lean on fuel, and following are the most likely causes: (listed from most common to rare)
Solution: Remove carburetor,
remove float bowl and float, and use a
carburetor jet cleaner wire set or an
oxy-acetylene welding torch tip cleaner to clear out the
dried gas and/or dirt/debris from the main jet.
When cleaning the hole (orifice) in the main
jet, use a wire cleaner of the appropriate size, and be careful not to enlarge
the hole, or the engine may run too rich on fuel! But if
the engine still runs the same after cleaning the main jet, then the hole
(orifice) in the main jet will need to be slightly if enlarged a few thousandths
of an inch to give the engine a little more fuel. After cleaning or enlarging
the hole (orifice) in the main jet, always use 150± PSI compressed air
to clear the debris and/or metal fragments from the carburetor.
If a gas cap is missing the gasket/splash shield, this part
can be made by cutting out a piece of poster board material (cereal box,
etc.) so it'll fit snug inside the gas cap. Be sure to make a small pin hole
(1/16") off-center in the gasket for the atmospheric vent. If fuel spews
out of the vent hole in the gas cap with a full tank of gas due to normal
engine vibration and to prevent a possible fire, place a small piece of foam
rubber
(reticulated polyurethane foam) between the gasket and vent
hole in the cap. The foam will absorb the fuel and block it from being forced
out the vent hole, and it'll allow incoming air to pass through it as the
fuel is depleted in the tank.
Solution: If throttle shaft hole in the carburetor body
has a counterbore, install new flat bronze bushing and/or new throttle shaft,
or if no counterbore is present, have throttle shaft hole precision-bored
for installation of a new [oiled] foam seal and bronze sleeve bushing.
Click or tap here for more
information.
FYI - If the spark plug's tip is black and/or has wet gas on it, and if the carburetor has been thoroughly cleaned (multiple times), but you think the problem is still in the carburetor, well, the carburetor is probably working fine because the engine is obviously getting plenty of fuel. As an older, experienced mechanic once said: "Most carburetor problems are electrical." Meaning faulty/weak ignition system. This have been proven true more times than I can remember.
Backfiring out the exhaust upon deceleration is normal for virtually all engines since gas is still going through the combustion chamber, compressing in the exhaust and exploding from the exhaust heat. But if an engine constantly backfires out the exhaust at any speeds after running for several minutes, the problem may be...
The fuel solenoid used on newer
Briggs & Stratton, Kohler, etc., engines is located on the bottom of
the float bowl. The spring-loaded plunger in it stops the fuel supply to
the combustion chamber by blocking off the main jet as soon as the ignition
is turned off. With this type of fuel solenoid, the engine will die immediately
when the ignition is turned off. This solenoid also prevents a loud BANG
out the muffler when the ignition is turned off while the engine is hot.
Without it, when the [hot] engine is turned off while throttled up, unburned
gas will continue to pass through the combustion chamber, build up in the
still red-hot muffler where the gas is compressed with hot air, and then
produce a loud BANG out the muffler.
The solenoid is supposed to make a "click" sound when the ignition is turned on. When in doubt rather it's the solenoid that's defective or bad wiring on the tractor, the solenoid can be tested with a 12 volt battery. With the solenoid removed from the carburetor, connect the battery positive (+) post to the solenoid wire, and connect the battery negative (–) post to the body of the solenoid. If the plunger quickly withdraws in the solenoid body, it's in good condition. If it doesn't withdraw, then the wire connecting to the solenoid has an open in it.
If the solenoid fails to function, it can be replaced with a new one, or remove it and simply snip off the protruding pin (plunger rod), and reinstall it. Doing this will allow the engine to draw fuel and run. But remember to idle the engine down for a few minutes each time before shutting it off, or like I said, it may produce a loud BANG out the muffler.
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| If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed
in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501
W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. When
you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with
the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to the
public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate our business our business to other property with a bigger
and better shop so we can hire more help and provide many more high quality
parts and professional services.)
NOTE: Being the solenoid (OEM Kohler part # 25 755 06-S) for Kohler engine models M18 with specification numbers 24563, 24568, 24574, 24577, 24592, 24594, 24599, 24619, 24630, 24631, 24636, 24646, 24655, 24656, 24659, 24664, 24674, 24696; M20 with specification numbers 49514, 49544, 49545, 49565, 49569, 49570, 49572, 49584, 49595, 49599, 49608, 49623, 49624, 49629; MV20 with specification numbers 57527, 57528 is no longer available, to convert these engines without use of the solenoid, remove the failed solenoid and valve, cut some short threads in the hole (remove the float bowl first and use compressed air to clear out the metal cuttings), and install a 3/8" Allen set screw in the hole. Don't thread the set screw deep in the hole, or it will block off outside atmospheric air from entering the float bowl. Without a solenoid, the engine would require a different ignition switch to shut off the spark. And the engine should be idled down before shutting it off to lessen the chance of a backfire out the muffler. |
How To Loosen a Gummed-Up, Stuck, Corroded or Rusted-In-Place Throttle or Choke Shaft, or Adjusting Screw -
EVAPO-RUST® and
Metal Rescue are very safe products to use and
works wonders to remove rust and loosen virtually any rusted or corroded
metal part! Just soak the carburetor body for 1 hour for light rust and up
to 12 hours for extremely heavy rust. Then use small locking pliers
(Vise Grip) to GENTLY rotate the shaft back and forth
. Don't force it because it could become twisted
and/or break off at the closest plate retaining screw hole! It may rotate
(loosen) just a few thousandths of an inch. After it rotates slightly, spray
it again and gently rotate it again. Eventually, it should rotate more and
swivel 100% free. These products are very safe to use and they work wonders
on virtually anything that's rusted!
Or use a heavy duty bathroom toilet bowl cleaner. Most of them will remove rust and scale. If it reads on the label that it will remove rust, then that's the one to use. Pour the cleaner in a container that's large enough for the carburetor body, and allow it to soak for about 30 minutes and then rinse it off with water. The throttle or choke shaft should swivel with no problems.
Or use distilled white vinegar to remove rust from the outside of gas tanks, tools, bolts/nuts, clutch pressure plates or virtually any exterior steel or cast iron object. Check it out here: vinegar rust removal - YouTube. Distilled white vinegar will not remove rust from inside a gas tank because it cannot be "rubbed loose" by hand from inside the tank.
GUNK Liquid Wrench® also works wonders to loosen virtually
any rusted or corroded metal part! Just spray the ends of the throttle or
choke shaft, let soak for about 30 minutes or perhaps overnight, then use
small locking pliers
(Vise Grip) to GENTLY rotate the shaft back and forth
. Don't force it because it could become twisted
and/or break off at the closest plate retaining screw hole! It may rotate
(loosen) just a few thousandths of an inch. After it rotates slightly, spray
it again and gently rotate it again. Eventually, it should rotate more and
swivel 100% free.
If the shaft(s) refuse to loosen with either Evapo-Rust, Liquid Wrench or
heavy duty bathroom toilet bowl cleaner, remove the float bowl, float, fuel
baffle/splash shield and O-ring seal. Clamp the carburetor in a bench vice,
then use a
propane torch or an
oxy-acetylene torch to LIGHTLY heat the carburetor
body next to the shaft (don't get the carburetor body too hot!), and use
the locking pliers
(Vise Grip) to GENTLY rotate the shaft back and forth
. The shaft should swivel 100% free within a
few seconds of heating. Heating might also work to remove a stuck-in-place
idle speed adjuster screw, idle fuel mixture screw or the main adjuster screw.
Be very gentle rotating a brass screw to loosen it because being brass is
a soft metal, it could snap off! And be careful not to get cast aluminum
too hot, it may crumble or split into pieces! Don't use a torch in an attempt
to remove a stuck main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube) from a carburetor that's
in good condition. Being the aluminum surrounding the main jet/nozzle (emulsion
tube) is thin, it will most likely crumble or split into pieces under the
severe heat, rendering the carburetor useless.
How to Clean the Inside of a Heavily Rusted or Dirty Metal Fuel Tank -
Fill the fuel tank with
EVAPO-RUST®,
Metal Rescue™, or a
heavy duty bathroom toilet bowl cleaner. Most of these
will remove rust and scale. If it reads on the label that it will remove
rust, then that's the one to use. Leave it for 1 hour for light rust and
up to 12 hours for extremely heavy rust, drain and flush with clean water,
allow to thoroughly dry. These products are very safe to use and they work
wonders on virtually anything that's rusted! Or use
distilled white
vinegar to remove rust from inside gas tanks, tools, bolts/nuts, clutch
pressure plates or virtually any steel or cast iron part:
vinegar rust removal - YouTube.
Another method to clean an internally rusted or especially dirty fuel tank, put some small driveway gravel in the tank with water, seal the fuel outlet fitting and gas cap vent holes (make sure the gas cap has a good seal), then literally and vigorously shake the heck out of it! Or for less tiresome labor, put the gravel and water in the tank, seal it up, securely tie a blanket around it and then put it in a clothes dryer or fasten it in an electric paint shaker. Set the dryer on the cold or "No Heat" setting, and let the dryer tumble or paint shaker shake for a couple of hours. When the water is drained and majority of the gravel removed, use a garden water hose to thoroughly clean out inside the tank. It should look new inside. If there's still some rust or dirt/debris in it, repeat the process until all the rust or dirt/debris is broken loose. And despite of what you've probably heard, putting sugar in a fuel tank will NOT ruin the engine! Don't believe in everything you hear. Read about it here: snopes.com: Sugar in the fuel tank. YouTube link: Sugar in Your Gas Engine Fuel Tank.
How to Repair a Hole in a Metal Fuel or Oil Storage Tank -
If virtually any kind of
ferrous metal
(steel) tank have a rusted or dented hole in it and leaks fuel or liquid,
it can be successfully repaired by using a quality-made
fuel tank sealant. But if the hole is too large for the
sealant, and if the tank is made of steel, a reputable
automotive radiator repair shop can solder a [tin] patch
over the hole. Then ask them to pressure test the tank filled with air submerged
in water to see if the patched hole leaks (bubbles). They usually have
rubber expansion plugs of various sizes to block-off the
inlet and outlet openings or ports.
First of all, I hate when people throw away a reusable throttle
or choke shaft just because it has a broken off screw in it. The only reason
most carburetor manufacturers install soft brass screws in the throttle and
choke shafts for the throttle and choke plates is because the protruding
threaded ends can be easily flared. This saves the factory money from not
having to use lock washers or liquid threadlocker. This prevents the screws
from loosening and dislodging from the throttle shaft and becoming lodged
between the intake valve and seat, or from being sucked into the combustion
chamber, and damage the cylinder head and piston.
When removing these screws and to prevent from breaking them off, first, grind down the protruding/flared ends with a Dremel or equivalent small rotary grinder chucked with either a very small grinding stone (chainsaw sharpening stone) or an 1/8" high speed steel end mill until the threads are flush with the shaft. Then the screws can be easily removed from the shaft without breaking them off. Be sure to use a quality-made screwdriver with a flat blade and square edge that fits the slot in the screw head perfectly to prevent from distorting or "stripping out" the slot, too. (This is why I use and offer for sale hardened stainless steel screws [with split lock washers]. Unlike [OEM] soft brass screws, stainless steel will not strip out or break off.)
But should a brass screw break off in the throttle or choke shaft without first grinding down the protruding/flared end, sometimes the shaft can be difficult to remove from the carburetor body due to the protruding flared end. Or if the slot in the screw head gets "stripped-out." In this case, use the Dremel to grind the flared end of the [broken] screw and/or grind off the head of the screw until it's flush with the shaft. Then the shaft can be removed. Afterwards, the broken screw can be drilled out using a milling machine clamped in a vise with a 1/16" center bit drill to make a small depression in the exact center of the broken screw to prevent "drill bit skating" so either a 5/64", #46 or 2mm drill bit can be used to drill out the rest of the broken screw, and then the threads may need to be straightened/cleaned with a 3-48 UNC taper hand tap. Don't use a center punch on the broken screw. This could bend the shaft, create a crack when straightened, possibly cause it to break later when in use. The throttle and choke shafts in Carter and Kohler carburetors originally come with 3-48 UNC screws. A #3 split lock washer should be used with a 3-48 UNC screw. Should the threaded hole become enlarged from drilling out the broken screw, the hole(s) can be made bigger with a 4-40 UNC tap, and a 4-40 UNC screw with a #4 split lock washer will need to be installed. By the way - liquid threadlocker is not required with a lock washer. [Return To Previous Paragraph or Website]
Correct Orientation and
Installation of the Throttle Plate and Choke Plate -
All OEM factory-made throttle plates, rather small engine, automotive, farm tractor engine, etc., are made 3% oblong and have a slight angle on the sides that seal against the sides of the throttle bore. The angle and oblong shape prevents the majority of incoming air from entering the combustion chamber in the idle position so the engine can idle at a slow speed. To reinstall the throttle plate correctly, on the Carter, Kohler and Walbro carburetors that's used on Kohler engines, the C (Carter), K (Kohler) or W (Walbro) stamped on the throttle plate faces outward and toward your right when facing the throttle bore with the carburetor positioned right side up and float bowl down (as shown in the picture to the right à), and make sure the throttle plate is centered with the throttle bore in the fully closed position when the screws are installed and tightened. Back off the idle speed adjustment screw to allow the throttle plate to be in the fully closed position. Then use the tips of small [pointy] needle-nose pliers to align the holes in the throttle (or choke plate) with the screw holes in the throttle (or choke shaft). If the throttle plate is installed in reverse or not 100% centered with the throttle bore, too much air will by-pass the throttle plate and the engine will not be able to idle down at a slow speed. Most aftermarket (Chinese-made) oblong throttle plates are not stamped with a letter and don't have an angle on the sides, so they can be installed in either direction, and they'll still seal 100% and the engine should idle down just as well.
And when reinstalling a choke plate, make sure it's centered with the carburetor intake in the fully closed position. If the choke plate is not aligned with the carburetor intake in the fully closed position, the engine will be hard to start or may not start at all.
Be sure to use a split lock
washer of the correct size on the throttle plate and choke plate retaining
screws or apply
medium strength liquid threadlocker on the threads of the
screws to prevent the screw from becoming dislodged from the shaft and possibly
being sucked into the combustion chamber, resulting in a possible bent intake
valve, damaged valve seat or severe damage to the piston, cylinder head and/or
cylinder wall. [Return To Previous Paragraph
or Website]
When rebuilding a plain, stock Carter
or Kohler #26, #28 or #30 carburetor, there is really no need to remove the
main jet/nozzle. If the main jet/nozzle will not come out, don't worry about
it. All that has to be done is make sure that the bottom hole and side holes
in the main jet/nozzle are open. To check if the side holes are open, simply
spray WD-40 or aerosol carburetor cleaner through the small hole just beneath
the choke plate and observe if it comes out the main jet/nozzle inside the
throttle bore and float bowl area.
But if the main jet/nozzle is clogged, or if you're boring the venturi to modify/rework the carburetor for high performance use, then the main jet/nozzle must be removed. Before attempting to remove the main jet/nozzle, and if the screwdriver slot is in good condition, then I found the best, easiest and proven way to remove it is by the following process. This method works great most of the time and the main jet/nozzle should loosen with no problems.
by hand (with the screwdriver)
to loosen it. Do not use a wooden handle screwdriver because the handle could
break.
If the above È method still didn't work, then unfortunately, sometimes the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube) will get stuck in place and the screwdriver slot will strip out. (I hate when this happens.) Do not use an Easy Out [Broken] Screw Extractor! With this tool, the tapered shape will force the main jet/nozzle to swell or spread outward (cause it to increase in diameter), and the deeper it goes, it could possibly crack the aluminum tube, rendering the carburetor body useless. The alternative method to remove the main jet/nozzle is to drill it out. This process is performed as follows:
With the main jet/nozzle removed,
use a 3/8-24 UNF plug hand tap to reshape and clean the threads for installation
of another main jet/nozzle. Install a new main jet/nozzle, or a good used
one from a junk carburetor. If the main jet/nozzle in a junk
carburetor is stuck, you can just split the threaded tube with either
a
flat cold chisel,
nut splitter or heat the tube with a
propane torch or an
oxy-acetylene torch until it splits apart. If attempting
to use the
flat cold chisel or
nut splitter, be careful not to damage the main jet/nozzle
itself!
How to Remove the Main Jet/Nozzle (Emulsion Tube) from a Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20 or #22 Carburetor for Cleaning -
If the main jet/nozzle in a Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20
or #22 carburetor that's used on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161
or K181 needs to be removed for cleaning, being this type of nozzle is pressed
in the carburetor body. It removes and reinstalls a lot easier than the above
È main jet/nozzle. The removal and
installation process is as follows:
By the way - as far as I know, new main jet/nozzles for the Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20 or #22 carburetor is not available from any source.
How to Remove a Broken-Off High Speed Air/Fuel Mixture Adjustment Needle Screw from a Carter or Kohler Carburetor -
Sometimes when an engine sits with gas in the fuel system, the old, dried gas residue will cause the high speed adjuster to become seized in the carburetor body. And when attempting to remove it, the hollow tube could will break off flush with the carburetor body. (Anything is possible with soft brass and old, dried gas.) Anyway, The removal process of a broken-off main adjuster is as follows:
If you don't feel comfortable removing the broken adjuster yourself, I charge $30.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling, to remove a broken adjuster.
Using Pump Gas with 10% Ethanol Versus 100% Race Gas in a Pulling Tractor -
First of all, in an daily-driven vehicle, gasoline with no lead is hard on soft cast iron exhaust valve seats. A soft cast iron valve seat is one that's been machined directly into an engine block or cylinder head, and it have not been heated-treated or no hardened insert is installed. In a daily-driven automobile, the seat(s) will eventually deteriorate or the metal will literally "wear away" because the absence of lead in gas to provide a protective coating to prevent wear. And being most exhaust valves are made of extremely hardened steel, they're not likely to wear at all. The intake valve and the cast iron seat is not likely to wear as much, if any. And an engine block or cylinder head with heat-treated seats or have hardened steel exhaust valve seat insert(s) installed, they should not wear whatsoever.
Anyway, the 10% ethanol in pump gas (common everyday automotive fuel) lessens exhaust emissions. Plus, the alcohol content boosts the octane, making it somewhat of a high performance fuel. The lead content in race gas (VP Racing Fuel, Turbo Blue, Sunoco, Torco, etc.) boosts the octane also, except it's alcohol-free to pass the tech fuel test for tractor pulling. And the valve seat(s) that's ground in a cast iron block in a pulling engine burning 87 octane unleaded regular gas should last a long time, no longer than the tractor runs down the track (2-3 minutes per pull). They're not being driven a long distance, like in a car or truck. Click or tap here to learn how to test for alcohol content in gasoline. (Requires Adobe Acrobat Reader and use Google Chrome web browser for a faster download of websites with large files.)
Older-formula mothballs have also been used by drag racers to enhance the octane rating of fuel, by dissolving the mothballs in some of the fuel and filtering out the remains with a filter paper.
Adding 2-cycle engine oil to gasoline will also boost the octane rating of the gas because the oil slows down the combustion process. The length of the combustion burning process depends on the amount of oil added to the gas. The oil content will help lubricate the cylinder wall and valves.
Average Octane Rating of Various Fuels | Remember - Only high compression engines benefit from the use of high octane fuel to increase the power output. High octane fuels have no effect whatsoever and will not increase the power output when used in a low compression engine.
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By the way - I've never had problems with gas having 10% ethanol in any of my small engines or automotive engines. I don't know why anyone else would. Maybe that's because when one is having problems with a small engine not running right, it's much easier to just blame it on "bad gas" than to look for the real problem elsewhere with the engine. Remember - it takes three things to make an internal combustion engine run: carburetion, compression and ignition. A professional, thorough and energetic mechanic don't blame the problem on one thing and overlook the other two. Unless of course, he's lazy and looking to make some quick money by doing an easy fix.
NOTE: The main jet (and fuel inlet hole) should not be enlarged for alcohol-free, high octane racing gas, such as VP Racing fuel, Turbo Blue, Sunoco, Premium gas, or gas with 10% ethanol, because these fuels require the same air/fuel mixture ratio as for ordinary, low octane automotive gas. If the main jet hole (orifice) is intentionally enlarged for gasoline-based fuels, the engine will run too rich on fuel, and there'll be no way to lean it out. Click or tap here to learn how to test for alcohol content in gasoline. (Requires Adobe Acrobat Reader and use Google Chrome web browser for a faster download of websites with large files.)
Nostalgic Memorabilia -
I'd also like to share this old gas station joke: Car owner that just pulled up to the pump at a full service gas station says to the gas station attendant: "Fill 'er up... Ethyl!"
Gas station attendant: "I'll fill up your car, but don't
call me Ethel." FYI - Until the late 1960s, certain Chevrolet small block muscle car engines had a compression ratio as high as 11.25:1, and certain Chevrolet [427] big block muscle car engines had a compression ratio as high as 14:1! (That was the good ol' days of hot rodding!) In fact, back in the day, Chevrolet was the only one out of the top three car manufacturers that had the highest compression ratio. |
Using a Gravity Feed Fuel Flow System -
When burning gas only and if an engine is going to turn no faster than 4,000± RPM (governed limit; the factory setting of maximum RPM for virtually all small gas engines, including all of Kohler engines is 3,600), then a gravity feed fuel system with the fuel tank positioned higher than the carburetor, stock fuel fittings and fuel hose should work fine. (Gravity feed is defined as when the fuel is drawn by gravity; the lowest part of the fuel tank is positioned higher than the carburetor, and there's no fuel pump involved.) If the fuel tank sets higher than the carburetor, and if a large inside diameter fuel hose and fittings are used, and if the float level is set a little high, then a gravity feed fuel system should work great for a stock engine turning no more than 4,000 RPM.
Information About the Crankcase Vacuum-Operated/Pulse-Type Fuel Pump - NOTE: A fuel pump is required ONLY when any part of the gas tank is positioned lower than the carburetor. It pumps fuel up to the carburetor. Otherwise, if the lowest part of the tank is positioned higher than the carburetor, the engine can run on a gravity feed fuel system.
All vacuum-operated/pulse-type
fuel pumps operate off of the air pressure/vacuum inside an engine's crankcase.
The moving piston(s) inside the crankcase create a pulsating effect of air
ç back and forth
to activate the pump's diaphragm. And all
vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel pumps come with three fittings - one that
connects to the engine crankcase, and an IN and OUT fuel hose fittings. It
should read on the body of the pump which each fitting connects. But if it
doesn't, then the fitting coming from the center of the pump connects to
the crankcase port. And as for the other two fittings, one connects to the
fuel tank outlet and the other fitting connects to the carburetor inlet.
If the engine in a lawn and garden tractor, or ATV/UTV sputters and/or dies after going over rough terrain, this could be caused by a defective vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel pump. Overtime, the fuel pump bodies become warped and oil in the crankcase is preventing air from pulsating the diaphragm the way it should. If the engine has a 12 volt electrical system with a charging system, it'll be better to install a 12 volt low pressure electric fuel pump. These rarely give trouble.
To test a plastic body vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel pump, first check that the fuel hose between the fuel tank and fuel pump is open and unobstructed, or if it has dry-rot cracks, which can cause a vacuum leak. To test it, disconnect the fuel hose from the fuel pump and wrap a shop/business towel or clean rag around an air blower nozzle and then insert the nozzle with the rag or towel in the fuel tank filler neck. Apply light air pressure in the tank. If fuel comes out of the fuel hose, then it's open. After that, reconnect the fuel hose to the fuel pump. To test the fuel pump itself, first check the hose that connects the fuel pump to the engine crankcase to see if it has a kink in it or if it has dry-rot cracks, which can also cause a vacuum leak. If it's in good condition, then the final step is to disconnect the fuel hose from the carburetor and with adequate amount of fuel in the fuel tank, crank the engine and at the same time observe how much fuel is being pumped out of the pump. If there seems to be adequate amount of fuel coming from it, hold your finger over the end of the line and while still cranking the engine, it should build up a small amount of pressure. If none or very little fuel comes out of the pump, then it's bad and needs replacing.
When a vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel pump fails to pump fuel, in most cases, the body of the fuel pump will become warped, causing a vacuum leak either from within or from the outside, preventing the diaphragm from pulsating. If the diaphragm is still flexible, chances are, the pump can be repaired by resurfacing the body halves on a wide, flat belt sander or large disc sander, or on the side of an abrasive metal cutting wheel on a electric chop saw (the kind that automotive muffler shops use) to remove any warpage and restore flatness. (Be sure to use eye protection!) If the body halves is warped, the sander will make contact where the screw holes are, but not between the screw holes.
If the bottom of the fuel tank is lower than the carburetor, then the engine definitely needs a fuel pump. If the engine didn't originally come with a fuel pump, and has no provision for a mechanical fuel pump and/or no 12 volt power output/supply to use a 12 volt low pressure electric fuel pump, here's how to install a universal vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel pump on virtually any small gas engine:
A vacuum hose fitting can be installed
in the valve (rocker arm) cover of an OHV engine, or fabricate a plate to
cover the existing mechanical fuel pump opening. Remove the rocker cover,
and drill a 21/32" hole in the desired location, and cut 1/8" NPT threads
in the drilled hole, and then install an 1/8-NPT x 1/4" barbed end [fuel]
hose fitting to serve as the vacuum-pulse-type port. Don't install the
fitting in the outer crankcase breather cover on a flathead engine. It doesn't
hold crankcase vacuum. The plate behind it with the reed valve does.
, which activates the diaphragm in the pump
that is created by the movement of the engine piston(s).
[Return To Previous Paragraph, Section
or Website]
Troubleshooting a Faulty Vacuum-Operated/Pulse-Type and Mechanical Fuel Pump -
If an engine sits for about one week or longer, if the fuel in the carburetor evaporates and it's hard to start, or fuel must be squirted into the carburetor to get the engine started, then this means that the vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel pump mechanical fuel pump may be bad. The inlet valve in the pump is leaking, which is allowing the fuel to drain back into the fuel tank with the engine off. As the pump tries to syphon fuel from the tank to refill the carburetor, it's unable because the inlet valve is bad. Solution: a new fuel pump will need to be installed. When a vacuum or mechanical fuel pump quits working, below Ê are the causes:
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What Exactly Is "Vapor Lock"?
Vapor lock only happens with certain older carbureted cars and trucks with a mechanical fuel pump that's fastened to the engine block. Vapor lock occurs when the [metal] gas line is too close to the hot exhaust, and when the vehicle is in slow traffic, the fuel is moving very slow in the line. Due to extreme heat from the exhaust and on a hot day, and the fan blade not blowing that much air past the exhaust, sometimes the heat will cause the gas to boil, forming air bubbles or air pockets, and the fuel vaporizes, and then the fuel pump can't pump vaporized fuel (air). So as soon as the carburetor runs out of fuel, the engine stalls. The fuel pump will "lock" with vapors trapped inside it. When the vehicle cools, incoming gas will force the air out of the fuel pump and through the carburetor, allowing the fuel to return to the pump, and then the engine will start and run again. This don't happen nowadays with automobiles having fuel injection because the entire fuel hose is pressurized.
But on lawn- or garden-tractors, the fuel hose is located nowhere near the hot exhaust. What is really happening when the engine stalls, is either the fuel system is dirty, the ignition coil is bad, or there's insufficient valve to lifter clearance.
Using a Mechanical Fuel Pump -
First of all, a fuel pump is
required ONLY when the lowest part of the fuel tank is positioned lower than
the carburetor, or when burning methanol fuel. It pumps fuel up to the carburetor
when gravity will not allow sufficient fuel flow to the carburetor. Otherwise,
if the lowest part of the fuel tank is positioned higher than the carburetor,
the engine can successfully run solely on a gravity feed fuel system.
Mechanical plastic and metal
body fuel pumps are very durable and they work pretty well, for both lawn
and garden tractors and stock competition pulling tractors burning gas only.
They will not pump enough fuel with methanol. Anyway, the OEM neoprene rubber
diaphragm or gaskets rarely go bad in the mechanical fuel pump. When they
fail to pump any fuel, it's usually due to the fuel pump cover and body become
warped due to pressure from the retaining screws, or one of the poppet valves
get damaged. They can become dislodged from their counterbore, or rusted
or corroded from long term water contamination. If the poppet valves are
in good condition and snug in their counterbores, but if the pump doesn't
pump fuel, then in most cases, the cover and body have become warped, creating
a vacuum leak at the diaphragm/gasket between the cover and body. To fix
this, separate the fuel pump cover from the body, and resurface each on a
wide, flat belt sander or large disc sander, or on the
side of an abrasive metal cutting wheel on a
electric chop saw (the kind that automotive muffler shops
use) to remove any warpage and restore flatness. (Be sure to use eye protection!)
After resurfacing, use a
deburring tool to get rid of any sharp burrs and/or sharp
edges inside the pump bodies, and thoroughly clean all the parts with 150±
PSI compressed air before reassembly. After reassembly of the pump, it should
work good as new. But if this doesn't fix the problem, or if one of the poppet
valves is damaged, then perhaps a new or used reconditioned pump will need
to be acquired.
By the way - most [new design]
aftermarket small engine plastic-body mechanical fuel pumps rarely warp between
the screws that fasten the cover and body together because the material is
much thicker in this area. Only the older OEM Kohler plastic- and metal-body
mechanical fuel pumps warp between the screws because the material is the
same thickness where the screws are.
To test the fuel pump for fuel flow off the engine, submerge the inlet port in a container of clean (filtered) parts cleaner or paint thinner and then work the lever quickly by hand. The solvent should squirt forcibly out the outlet port. If the pump doesn't start pumping right away, submerge the entire fuel pump in the solvent and work the lever to prime it and remove the air internally. After checking to see how well it works, to test the PSI, a fuel pressure gauge that registers up to 15 PSI can be connected to the outlet port. The pressure should be 1-½ to 2 PSI. To increase the pressure to about 2-½ PSI (maximum), disassemble the pump and physically stretch the diaphragm pressure spring until it's about 3/4" longer than original length. To increase the volume (more fuel flow), the stroke of the fuel pump lobe on the camshaft would need to be lengthened approximately 1/8" by welding it up on the high side and reground deeper on the low side. Or better yet, use a 12 volt low pressure electric fuel pump.
The only problem when using a gasket to fasten the fuel pump to the block is, being the mounting flange is so thin, it will warp over time, causing an oil leak. (This happens to every pump I've seen.) To fix this, and to [possibly] prevent an oil leak in the future, completely disassemble the pump, remove the lever and arm (be careful not to lose the spring) and use a wide, flat belt sander or large disc sander, or on the side of an abrasive metal cutting wheel on a electric chop saw (the kind that automotive muffler shops use) to remove any warpage and restore flatness. (Be sure to use eye protection!) The trick to reinstalling the spring is, reinstall the arm, lever and support pin in the pump body first, then install the spring with a small, flat screwdriver. (The pumps with the manual fuel primer lever is harder to reassemble.) To keep the flange from warping again, fasten it directly to the block using only clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant and use no gasket, or use a very thin gasket. Finally, install a flat washer (and of course, a split lock washer) under each mounting screw head to distribute even pressure on the flange and to prevent the screws from loosening. By the way - I've always preferred to use clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant for three reasons: Gaskets don't always seal the irregularities and imperfections between mating metals, especially thin metal covers; being it's an adhesive, it bonds parts together, forming a leak-proof seal; and being it's clear, it makes for a clean and professional-looking repair job. When applied sparingly, it can't be easily seen or noticed between the parts.
The purpose of the older and
now obsolete OEM Kohler mechanical fuel pump with the manual hand lever
(thin metal piece that hangs down under the pump body) is for when the engine
runs out of fuel, after refilling the gas tank, it takes less time to manually
prime the pump and refill the carburetor with gas by working the lever by
hand than it would to crank the engine for a long time so the fuel pump can
draw fuel from the tank and deliver it to the carburetor. This was a nice
feature, especially on engines with a rope or recoil starter! It also saves
wear and tear on the electric starter motor from cranking the engine for
a long time, which could eventually burn up the starter or drain the battery.
FYI - Virtually of all of Kohler's
single cylinder cast iron block and opposed twin cylinder engines come with
a lobe on the camshaft to activate the mechanical fuel pump. The fuel pump
installs with the lever positioned upwards. And if there's no provision on
the side of a [single cylinder] block to mount a mechanical fuel pump, a
3/4" center hole and two 1/4" bolt holes can be drilled, and the 1/4" holes
tapped for 1/4-20 UNC threads to mount a mechanical fuel pump. Use a fuel
pump mounting gasket as a templet to drill the holes.
When to Use a 12 Volt Low Pressure Electric Fuel Pump -
Most
12 volt low pressure electric fuel pumps
are compact, vibration-proof (has solid state dependability), self-priming,
easy to install and connect the wiring. They work with gasoline-based fuels,
won't flood the carburetor, draw very little amperage from the battery, and
they cost less than most OEM 12 volt low pressure electric fuel pumps. These
works great for garden tractors having either a single- or two-cylinder engine.
Another good thing about a 12 volt low pressure electric fuel pump verses a mechanical pump (if the mechanical pump doesn't have a primer lever, which must be primed manually) is if an engine runs out of fuel, the engine will not have to be cranked for a long time to get the fuel pumped up to the carburetor, which can be hard on an electric starter motor.
A new electric fuel pump should come with detailed and illustrated installation instructions. If there's no instructions, on a tractor or small engine equipment with battery-powered ignition, connect the RED wire from the pump to the wire that connects to the ignition coil positive (+) terminal (which is connected to the battery positive (+) post through the ignition key switch), and connect the BLACK wire from the pump to the engine sheet metal or chassis ground (which is connected directly to the battery negative (–) post). On a tractor or small engine equipment with magneto or solid state ignition, but with electric start, use an OFF/ON toggle switch connected to the battery positive (+) post to power the fuel pump. In most cases, do not use the [self-grounding magneto] ignition key switch.
An
electric fuel pump that's designed for an
import car/truck produce more flow than any of Kohler's mechanical fuel pumps,
and in most of them don't produce not enough pressure to flood the carburetor.
With some high pressure electric fuel pumps however, an adjustable fuel pressure
regulator with a fuel pressure gauge may need to
be used between the fuel regulator and carburetor. To begin with, set the
regulator at about 2-1/2 p.s.i. Make the final adjustment on the fuel pressure
at high RPM or wide open throttle, hooked to the sled, while going down the
track. For a stock garden pulling tractor with a 4,000 RPM limit, due to
the minimal engine vibration, a dry fuel pressure gauge can be used. But
for a garden pulling tractor that operate at high RPM or wide open throttle,
due to increased engine vibration, use a liquid filled fuel pressure gauge
to prevent possible damage to the gauge.
Advertisement:
| If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services
listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises
| 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. When
you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with
the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to the
public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate our business to other property with a bigger and better
shop so we can hire more help and provide many more high quality parts and
professional services.) |
|
Vacuum-Operated/Pulse-Type
Plastic Body Fuel Pump. Operates off internal engine crankcase pulsating
pressure. Very durable. Fits many makes and models of various small engines.
Universal usage. Can be used as a replacement for a faulty high-dollar mechanical
fuel pump. Use for general lawn and garden work or for a 4,000± RPM
stock pulling engine. Install in-line fuel filter before pump so flapper
valves in pump will last longer.
|
Vacuum-Operated/Pulse-Type
All-Metal Body Fuel Pump. Operates off internal engine crankcase pulsating
pressure. Fits many makes and models of various small engines. Universal
usage. Can be used as a replacement for a faulty high-dollar mechanical fuel
pump. Use for general lawn and garden work or for a 4,000± RPM stock
pulling engine. Install in-line fuel filter before pump so flapper valves
in pump will last longer.
|
| Mechanical Fuel Pump Opening Cover Plates with 1/8" NPT Threaded
Port with Choice of Straight, 45º Angled or 90º Hose Fitting.
Replace faulty mechanical fuel pump with a vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel
pump. Each plate fits virtually all models of Kohler engines, and certain
older Tecumseh engines. Can be installed with
clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant instead of a gasket.
Use
plumber's thread sealing tape on fitting to guarantee a
leak-proof seal. Each plate made of 1/8" thick mild steel. An ingenious
and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat
products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.)
FYI - A vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel pump will work well with the OEM Kohler styled fuel pump block-off cover plate (part # 240282-S; listed below) used on certain Kohler K-series engines with a 21/32" port hole drilled and threads cut with an 1/8" NPT hand tap, and an 1/8" NPT x 1/4" hose fitting installed. |
|
 Cover Plates for
Mechanical Fuel Pump Opening. Replace faulty mechanical fuel pump with gravity
feed fuel system or
12 volt low pressure
electric fuel pump. Fits most Kohler and older Tecumseh engines.
Can be installed with
clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant instead of a gasket.
Each made of 1/8" thick mild steel.
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Fuel Pump Mounting
Gaskets. Fits all models of Kohler and older Tecumseh engines with a
camshaft-operated mechanical fuel pump. Approximately 1/32" thick.
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 Fuel Pump Diaphragm
and Pressure Spring Repair Kit. Fits old-style plastic- and metal-body mechanical
fuel pumps with thread-in hose fittings used on Kohler, Tecumseh, Onan, etc.
Will not fit new-style fuel pumps with press-in fittings. IMPORTANT: To
prevent a vacuum leak and for proper operation of the fuel pump, separate
the cover from the body resurface each on a
wide, flat belt sander or large disc sander, or on the
side of an abrasive metal cutting wheel on a
electric chop saw (the kind that automotive muffler shops
use) to remove any warpage and restore flatness. (Be sure to use eye
protection!) Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # 230675-S.
|
|
 Mechanical Fuel
Pumps. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8. New-style
plastic body fuel pumps to resist corrosion from water contamination. Use
the supplied snap ring to press the tabs in the fittings to install and rotate
them. New pumps for thread-in fittings and/or with primer lever no longer
available. Install in-line fuel filter before inlet on pump so pump will
last longer. L FYI - The alternative to
replacing a [high dollar or obsolete] OEM Kohler mechanical fuel pump on
a small engine is to use a modern crankcase vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel
pump or a 12 volt low pressure electric fuel
pump. Click or tap
here to learn how this is done.
|
|
  Mechanical Fuel Pumps. Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10,
K301/M12, K330/K331, K321/M14, K341/M16, K361 and K660/K662. New-style plastic
body fuel pumps to resist corrosion from water contamination. Use the supplied
snap ring to press the tabs in the fittings to install and rotate them. Install
in-line fuel filter before inlet on pump so pump will last longer. Kohler
part #'s 47 559 10-S, 47 559 11-S (most commonly used). FYI - The alternative
to replacing a [high dollar or obsolete] OEM mechanical fuel pump on a small
engine is to use a modern crankcase vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel pump
or a 12 volt low
pressure electric fuel pump. Click or tap
here to learn how this is done.
|
|
 Mechanical Fuel
Pumps. Fits Kohler engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series
II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. New-style plastic body fuel pumps to resist
corrosion from water contamination. Use the supplied snap ring to press the
tabs in the fittings to install and rotate them. Install in-line fuel filter
before inlet on pump so pump will last longer. New pumps for thread-in
fittings no longer available. L FYI
- The alternative to replacing a [high dollar or obsolete] OEM mechanical
fuel pump on a small engine is to use a modern crankcase
vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel pump or a
12 volt low pressure
electric fuel pump. Click or tap here to
learn how this is done.
|
|
 Mechanical Fuel
Pumps. Fits Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582 opposed (flathead) twin
cylinder engines. New-style plastic body fuel pumps to resist corrosion from
water contamination. Use the supplied snap ring to press the tabs in the
fittings to install and rotate them. Install in-line fuel filter before inlet
on pump so pump will last longer. New pumps for thread-in fittings no
longer available. L FYI - The alternative
to replacing a [high dollar or obsolete] OEM mechanical fuel pump on a small
engine is to use a modern vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel pump or a
12 volt low pressure
electric fuel pump. Click or tap here to
learn how this is done.
|
|
High
Quality Chrome Body Mechanical Fuel Pressure Gauges. Use to monitor fuel
pump pressure to carburetor. Can be used on general lawn and garden equipment,
various small engine equipment, recreational vehicles, garden pulling tractors
or mini rod pulling tractors. Can be used with a vacuum-operated/pulse-type
fuel pump, mechanical fuel pump or electric fuel pump. Each registers 0-15
PSI, 1-1/2" diameter, with an 1/8" NPT male fitting on back of gauge. Fabricate
a sturdy angled bracket to mount gauge on side of pedestal assembly or on
frame of tractor, after electric fuel pump. IMPORTANT: Use
plumber's thread sealing tape on all threaded fuel fittings
for a leak-proof seal.
|
|
Low
Pressure 12 Volt Fuel Pump Installation
Kits. Low pressure, small and compact. Convert from gravity feed, or
replace faulty vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel pump or mechanical fuel pump
(with a deteriorated diaphragm that can seep gas into the crankcase, diluting
the oil, which can could severe internal engine damage), or upgrade to one
of these pumps for more fuel delivery. Each produces 2.5-4.5 PSI @ 30 gph,
and is non-adjustable. Fuel regulator is not required, but may require one
under certain conditions. Use for general lawn and garden work, or for garden
tractor pulling. Will work for most single- and twin-cylinder gas engines
such as Kohler, Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh, Wisconsin, etc., on virtually
all models of Cub Cadet, John Deere, Wheel Horse, Sears Suburban, Massey
Ferguson, and just about any lawn & garden equipment with a 12 volt
electrical system. These electric fuel pump kits come with fittings that
accepts 1/4" I.D. fuel hose, the same size that's on most Kohler and other
makes and models of engines. If it's a Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) engine, the
fitting in the carburetor would need to be changed to 1/4". IMPORTANT: Use
plumber's thread sealing tape on fuel fittings to guarantee
a leak-proof seal. If the engine has magneto or solid state ignition, but
no charging system, and only a 12 volt battery is used to power the fuel
pump, the battery will need to be recharged with portable battery charger
every now and then so the fuel pump will work at peak efficiency. Alcohol
resistant and very durable. For stock engines or engines running at high
RPM or wide open throttle. Suitable for small gas engines up to 4 cylinder
carbureted engines. Instant fuel prime to the carburetor as soon as pump
is powered up.  Ideal when equipment
runs out of gas and no need to crank engine for a long time to refill carburetor
to restart engine. Saves on starter motor wear. Each operates on 12 volts
DC. Rather than a motor or diaphragm, these solenoid pumps use a piston actuated
by an electromagnetic coil to generate fuel pressure and flow. By using only
short pulses of electricity, this pump is very efficient. IMPORTANT: For
long term
storage, drain and clear out all fuel, leave fuel hoses disconnected
so entire fuel system can "air dry," and apply WD-40 or light oil in the
fuel pump to prevent oxidation, which could cause the moving parts to "freeze
up" or stick. Wire Connections: The BLACK wire connects to negative
(–) ground (tractor chassis or frame), and the
RED wire connects to the positive (+)
battery post or a terminal on the ignition switch that connects to the positive
(+) battery post. If the wires are connected in reverse, the fuel pump will
pump fuel in the opposite direction. It will not harm the pump. Install in-line
fuel filter before inlet on pump so pump will last longer.
NOTE: Electric fuel pumps listed here come with a one year warranty from date of purchase. Install the inline fuel filter before the pump (inlet port) to prevent any debris from becoming lodged in the pumping mechanism. If there is debris lodged, it may be removed with 150 PSI compressed air when applied in the reverse direction of fuel flow. If the pump still won't work right after clearing it out, please remove the fittings, return the pump and I'll send you another new fuel pump without the hardware and fittings. [Return To Previous Paragraph or Section]
|
|
How to Prepare an Electric Fuel Pump for Wintertime or Long Term Storage -
If the equipment is equipped with an electric pump, for winter-time or long term storage, drain and clear out all fuel, leave the fuel hoses disconnected so the entire fuel system can "air dry," and apply WD-40 or light oil, such as 3-IN-ONE, power steering fluid or equivalent, in the fuel pump to prevent oxidation drying out of the moving parts, which could cause the parts to "freeze up" or stick. Then store the tractor or small engine equipment in a cool, dry environment. Click or tap here for more information of long term storage of an engine.
Advertisement:
| If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed
in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501
W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. When
you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with
the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to the
public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate our business to other property with a bigger and better
shop so we can hire more help and provide many more high quality parts and
professional services.) |
FYI: A-1 Miller's can professionally rebuild older vintage and antique carburetors virtually of any kind as well as newer ones, as long as replacement parts are available. I also have the capability to fabricate new throttle and choke shafts.
After I rebuild a carburetor, as long as everything else on the engine is
in good condition, the carburetor will, without a doubt, perform flawlessly.
When we rebuild a carburetor, it is completely disassembled, including the
choke plate and/or throttle shaft, only if the plate is bent or the shaft
is worn. The mounting flanges are resurfaced on a
wide, flat belt sander or large disc sander, or on the
side of an abrasive metal cutting wheel on a
electric chop saw (the kind that automotive muffler shops
use) to remove any warpage and restore flatness to prevent a vacuum leak,
then all the parts are placed in an
ultrasonic
cleaning machine for about 5 minutes. Then we use 150 psi compressed
air to blow-dry all the parts, and I inspect each part for wear or any previous
damage and repair or replace the damaged part(s) and replace the worn parts
with new parts. If the throttle shaft is worn loose, a new bushing and
foam rubber seal (to prevent dust and dirt from entering
past bushing/throttle shaft), and a new overhaul/rebuild kit are installed.
The lower hole in the high speed needle adjuster is also enlarged so engine
will start quicker and idle better. And any stripped-out threads in the
carburetor body for the air cleaner/filter mounting base are repaired, if
possible. And the only way to remove all the paint from the carburetor body
is to sandblast it. But sandblasting can allow tiny particles of sand to
become embedded in the fuel passageways, which could come loose and cause
problems later. Therefore, we do not sandblast carburetors. An original,
ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise
this repair service. Additional Parts and Professional Repair Service Your Carburetor May Need Listed Below Ê
IMPORTANT: When sending your carburetor to me, please package it and all parts to it securely in one sealed zip-lock sandwich bag to prevent loss of parts in shipping, and to prevent the odor of gas from escaping the package. If the odor of gas is still present from outside the package, apply air freshener on the carburetor to disguise the smell of gas. Because the US Postal Service or other delivery services will not deliver any packages that smell like gas. Also, be sure to include a note in the package with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone number (in case we have any questions), a description of what you want done, how the engine will be used and any other parts you may need. we will contact you when the carburetor (and list of parts) are ready to be sent back to you. |
 High Quality Aftermarket
Chinese-Made Walbro-Replicated LME Carburetor. Fits Tecumseh engine models
HH100 and HH120. The OEM Walbro LME carburetor is no longer available new.
|
Professionally Rebuilt
Genuine OEM Carter Model N #13 or #16 Carburetor. Very rare. This particular
carburetor is designed specifically for Kohler engine model K90 and K91 (which
are the same engine), and certain low RPM K141 engines. The throttle bore
measures .810" diameter and the venturi is .542" diameter. When used on a
Kohler engine model K141, K160/K161, K181 or M8, due to the smaller throttle
bore and restrictive venturi, and velocity of air that's required, the bigger
engine will not produce full power at 3,600 RPM. (It'll be the same as using
a small 2-barrel carburetor versus a big 4-barrel carburetor on an automotive
engine.) This is a plain, stock carburetor that's been completely disassembled,
thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt with a new overhaul kit, new throttle shaft
and other new parts installed if required. No performance modifications are
made to this carburetor whatsoever. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture
adjustments will be initially set on the carburetor just to get the engine
running, but due to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and
air temperature where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed
air/fuel mixture adjustments will need to be made by the customer so the
engine will run smooth. Use
plumber's thread sealing tape on fuel fitting to guarantee
a leak-proof seal. OEM Carter part #'s A-220100, A-230246, A-230444, E-220517,
F-220762, G-220517, 220451, 220574, 220745, 220777, 230501. (Not all numbers
stamped on Carter carburetors are listed with Kohler.) OEM Kohler part #
46 053 03. This carburetor is discontinued from Kohler.
L All carburetors that we repair, rebuild,
modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with a limited
one year workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE
professional technical support.
|
  Professionally Rebuilt Genuine OEM Carter or Kohler #26
Carburetors. The throttle bore measures 26mm/1.07" diameter and the venturi
is .812" diameter. This particular carburetor is designed specifically for
Kohler engine models K241, K301, K330/K331, M10 and M12. When used on a Kohler
engine model K321/M14, K341/M16 or K361, due to the smaller throttle bore
and restrictive venturi, and velocity of air that's required, the bigger
engine will not produce full power at 3,600 RPM. (It'll be the same as using
a small 2-barrel carburetor versus a big 4-barrel carburetor on an automotive
engine.) These are plain, stock carburetors that's been completely disassembled,
thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt with a new overhaul kit, new throttle shaft
bushing or new throttle shaft (if needed) and other new parts installed if
required. No performance modifications made to these carburetors whatsoever.
Includes choke plate installed. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments
will be initially set on the carburetor to get the engine running, but due
to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature
where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture
adjustments will need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth.
Kohler carburetor part #'s 47 053 07, 47 053 08, 47 053 12, 47 053 13, 47
053 14, 47 053 24, 47 053 29, 47 053 40, 47 053 62 or 47 053 80. NOTE: Not
all numbers stamped on Carter carburetors are listed with Kohler. And design
of throttle lever, choke lever and number of air cleaner mounting holes may
be different for your particular engine application than shown in picture
to the right. Discontinued from Kohler. L All
carburetors that we repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to be
free of defects and come with a limited one year workmanship warranty from
date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE professional technical support.
High Performance Stock-Appearing
"Old School" Technology Carburetor Modifications -
Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in
purchasing any of the parts or items in this website. If you need a part
or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and
we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top
of Page]
NOTE: The venturi in the Chinese-made Kohler-replicated #26 carburetor
can be bored out the same diameter as the throttle bore, to a maximum of
1.09" (1-7/64"), same as the genuine OEM Carter and Kohler #26 carburetors.
But the venturi in the Chinese-made Kohler-replicated #30 carburetor (which
actually a #28 that have a throttle bore diameter of 1.17" / 29.76mm) can
only be bored-out to a maximum of 1.000". If it's bored-out any bigger and
centered with the throttle bore, being the Chinese-made carburetor bodies
of the #26 and #30 are cast in the same mold and machined the same externally,
including the fuel inlet port, the boring process of the venturi in the #30
carburetor to match the diameter of the throttle bore will, without a doubt,
break through into the fuel inlet port, which will allow fuel into the throttle
bore and render the carburetor body useless. But the venturi in the genuine
OEM Carter and Kohler #30 carburetors can be bored out the same size as the
throttle bore, to a maximum of 1.2", with no risk of breaking through into
the fuel inlet port. A bored-out venturi and reworked carburetor is when
the carburetor is modified for maximum performance only for competition pulling.
And remember - performance carburetors are like women, it's what's on
the inside that matters.
Also, these carburetors are "built to order." So when placing an order, please specify if your engine has a factory stock size or oversize intake valve, if you want it with a .995" or 1" venturi, or a straight-thru throttle bore (no venturi), if the engine is going to turn 4,000± RPM or wide open throttle, and if you want the choke plate/shaft installed.
|
 Professionally Rebuilt
Genuine OEM Kohler #26 fully adjustable carburetors. Fits Kohler engine models
KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20
(without anti-backfire shut-off valve). These are plain, stock carburetors
that's been completely disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and professionally
rebuilt with a new overhaul kit and other new parts installed if required.
No performance modifications made to these carburetors whatsoever. Includes
choke plate installed. Comes with a changeable upward or downward swing
choke lever to match the position of the lever on your original carburetor.
Simply remove the retaining screw and reposition the choke lever according
to your application. (This is a feature A-1 Miller's offer that other
sellers do not.) When ordering, please specify the position of the choke
lever. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be initially
set on the carburetor just to get the engine running, but due to the altitude
level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine
will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments will
need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth. Kohler carburetor
part #'s 52 053 09, 52 053 18 or 52 053 28. NOTE: Not all carburetor numbers
are listed with Kohler. All carburetors that we repair, rebuild, modify or
sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with a limited one year
workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE professional
technical support.
|
| Carburetors for Kohler
engine models K482, K532 and K582. All carburetors that we repair, rebuild,
modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with a limited
one year workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE
professional technical support. FYI: Some people advertise online that
the carburetor for the K482 and K532 can also be used on the K582. But I
know for a fact that if the K482 and K532 carburetor is used on the K582,
which produces 24hp with the correct carburetor, would produce about 21hp
and make less torque, because the engine would be drawing less air through
the smaller carburetor to produce not as much compression. I guess the seller
don't know the differences between these carburetors, because they look virtually
identical on the outside. Or maybe the seller figures what most people don't
know, makes them more money.
Professionally Rebuilt OEM Kohler carburetor with a 1.07" throttle bore (#26). Designed specifically for Kohler engine models K482 and K532. Cleaned and rebuilt with a new overhaul kit and other new parts installed if required. OEM Kohler part # 48 053 07-S. (When available.)
Professionally Rebuilt OEM Kohler carburetor with a 1.2" throttle bore (#30). Designed specifically for Kohler engine model K582. Cleaned and rebuilt with a new overhaul kit and other new parts installed if required. OEM Kohler part # 48 053 06-S or 48 053 16-S. (When available.)
High Quality "Made in China" Aftermarket Kohler-replicated fully adjustable carburetor with a 1.07" throttle bore (#26). Designed specifically for Kohler engine models K482 and K532. Direct replacement. Same function and appearance as OEM Carter or Kohler carburetor. No modifications required. Replaces Kohler part # 48 053 07-S. $65.00 each outright, plus shipping & handling. High Quality "Made in China" Aftermarket Kohler-replicated fully adjustable carburetor with a 1.2" throttle bore (#30). Designed specifically for Kohler engine model K582. Direct replacement. Same function and appearance as OEM Carter or Kohler carburetor. No modifications required. Replaces Kohler part # 48 053 06-S or 48 053 16-S. $65.00 each outright, plus shipping & handling. |
| If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services
listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises
| 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. When
you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with
the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to the
public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate our business to other property with a bigger and better
shop so we can hire more help and provide many more high quality parts and
professional services.) |
|||
| NOTE: All parts listed here are NEW, unless otherwise stated. We do not sell cheap junk! As a matter of fact, most OEM Kohler parts are made in China now. Kohler owns some of the factories in China that make the parts. And most aftermarket parts are also manufactured by Kohler in China. Kohler just place the part(s) in a generic box and sell them for less money. So when purchasing a genuine OEM Kohler part that comes in a box with the Kohler name on it, you're really just paying more money for the name. | |||
 Carburetor
to Block Mounting Gaskets. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161,
K181/M8, and various other makes and models of small engines with Carter
Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 and Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetor. Approximately
1/64" compressed thickness. Replaces Tecumseh part # 31960A.
|
 Air Cleaner Base
or Intake Elbow Adapter to Carburetor Mounting Gasket. Fits Kohler engine
models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181/M8, and various other makes and models
of small engines with Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 and Walbro WHL
#36, #44 and LME carburetors. Approximately 1/32" compressed thickness. Use
with two mounting screws. Discontinued from Kohler.
L Replaces Kohler part # 220537 and Tecumseh
part # 27272A.
|
||
 Air
Cleaner Base to Carburetor Mounting Gasket. Fits various Kohler engine models
K181 and M8, and various other makes and models of small engines with Walbro
WHL #36, #44 carburetor. Not available in aftermarket.
|
 Air Cleaner
Base or Intake Elbow Adapter to Carburetor Mounting Gaskets. Fits Kohler
engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181/M8, and various other makes
and models of small engines with Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 and
Walbro WHL 36, #44 carburetor. Use with two or three mounting screws, depending
on type of air cleaner. Approximately 1/32" compressed thickness. Alternative
gasket to the left.
|
||
 Carburetor
to Block Thin Mounting Gaskets. Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12,
K330/K331, K321/M14, K341/M16, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series
II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20 K482, K532 and K582 opposed (flathead) twin
cylinder engines with Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 or Walbro WHG #52, #60,
#64 carburetor. For general lawn and garden use. Approximately 1/32" compressed
thickness.
|
 Carburetor
to Block Heat Isolator Mounting Gasket. Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10,
K301/M12, K330/K331, K321/M14 and K341/M16 with Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30
or Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetor. Use on engines that do a lot of heavy
work. Idea for stock competition pulling engines. Has gaskets adhered to
each side of heat resistant
phenolic
resin center. Approximately .230" compressed thickness. FYI:
This particular gasket prevents engine heat from being transferred to the
carburetor, resulting in cooling and better
atomization
of the fuel before entering the combustion chamber, improving engine
performance.
|
||
 Air Cleaner
Base to Carburetor Mounting Gaskets. Fits Kohler engine models K241, K301,
K321, K330/K331, K341, and various Magnum engine models M12, M14 and M16
with Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 or Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetor with
the round air cleaner/filter
assembly.
|
 Air Cleaner
Base to Carburetor Mounting Gasket. Fits Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) engine models
K241, K301, K321, K341 and K361, and various Magnum engine models M10, M12,
M14 and M16 with Kohler #26, #30 or Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors
with the round or oblong air
cleaner/filter assembly. Not available in aftermarket.
|
||
 Air Intake Elbow
Adapter to Carburetor Mounting Gasket. Fits Kohler engine models K321, K341,
KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20, K482,
K532, K582. Can be substituted with gasket above by making an atmospheric
vent hole at the 2:00 position. Not available in aftermarket.
|
 Square-Shaped
Air Cleaner Base to Elbow Adapter Mounting Gasket. Fits Kohler engine models
CH25, CH730-740, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18,
M20, MV20, K482, K532, K582. Approximately 1/32" compressed thickness. Not
available in aftermarket.
|
||
 Intake Manifold
to Cylinder Mounting Gasket. Fits Kohler opposed (flathead) twin cylinder
engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18,
M20 and MV20. Approximately 1/32" compressed thickness.
|
 Intake Manifold
to Block Mounting Gasket. Fits Kohler opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engine
models K482, K532 and K582. Not available in aftermarket.
|
||
  Carburetor Overhaul Kits. Fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18,
#20, #22, and Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors used on Kohler K-series
and early Magnum single and opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engines, and
various other makes and models of small engines. Includes
Viton-tip
fuel inlet float valve, brass fuel inlet seat w/gasket, neoprene rubber
bowl-to-carburetor body O-ring seal, neoprene rubber fuel baffle/splash shield,
fiber bottom washer and float hinge pin. All rubber-like parts made of
alcohol-resistant
neoprene
rubber. IMPORTANT: For a used float bowl, flatten the bottom of the bowl
from the inside on a hard, flat surface with a small hammer, install the
bowl on the carburetor and tighten the bowl retaining bolt to "clamp" or
squeeze the fuel baffle/splash shield against the O-ring and carburetor body
to prevent splashing fuel from leaking out around the top of the float
bowl.
 High Quality
10mm 6 Point 1/4" Drive Thin-Wall Deep Well Socket for installing (and
removing) certain aftermarket fuel inlet seats in Carter Model N #13, #16,
#18, #20, #22, and Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30, and Chinese-made aftermarket
carburetors. Can also be used to remove and install the OEM Kohler 3/8" fuel
inlet seat. Machined thin by A-1 Miller's to fit into confined space of inlet
seat. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Return To Previous Paragraph or Section |
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 Float Bowl-to-Carburetor Body O-Ring Seals. This particular
part prevents splashing fuel inside the float bowl from leaking out caused
by normal or high RPM engine vibrations. Required in all carburetors. Each
fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22, and Carter or Kohler #26, #28,
#30 carburetors used on the Kohler K-series and early Magnum single cylinder
4hp-16hp, 18hp OHV single- and twin-cylinder flathead cast iron block engines.
Also fits Tecumseh engines with the Carter or Walbro carburetors with the
large bowl, and Briggs and Stratton 7hp-12hp vertical shaft flathead engine
carburetors. (These early B&S carburetors was designed and made by
the
Carter Carburetor Corporation.) Dimensions (±):
2-3/16" I.D. x 2-7/16" O.D. x .040" thickness. Alcohol-resistant neoprene
rubber O-ring included in overhaul/rebuild kits listed above
È. IMPORTANT: For a used float bowl,
flatten the bottom of the bowl from the inside on a hard, flat surface with
a small hammer, install the bowl on the carburetor and tighten the bowl retaining
bolt to "clamp" or squeeze the fuel baffle/splash shield against the O-ring
and carburetor body to prevent splashing fuel from leaking out around the
top of the float bowl.
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 Alcohol-Resistant
Neoprene
Rubber Fuel Baffle/Splash Shields. This particular part prevents splashing
fuel inside the float bowl from traveling up through the atmospheric vent
passageway and possibly being sucked into the throttle bore, which can
momentarily cause engine misfire due to normal or high RPM engine vibrations.
Fastens between bowl O-ring seal and float bowl. Required in all carburetors.
Fits all Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 and Carter or Kohler #26,
#28, #30 carburetors used on the Kohler K-series and early Magnum single
cylinder 4hp-16hp, 18hp OHV single- and twin-cylinder flathead cast iron
block engines. Included in overhaul/rebuild kit listed above
È. IMPORTANT: For a used float bowl,
flatten the bottom of the bowl from the inside on a hard, flat surface with
a small hammer, install the bowl on the carburetor and tighten the bowl retaining
bolt to "clamp" or squeeze the fuel baffle/splash shield against the O-ring
and carburetor body to prevent splashing fuel from leaking out around the
top of the float bowl.
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 Brass Float.
Fits all Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22, and Carter/Kohler #26, #28,
#30 carburetors used on the Kohler K-series, early Magnum single cylinder
K90-K361 single- and twin-cylinder flathead cast iron block engines. May
also fit certain carburetors used on Onan engines. Dimensions (±): 15/16"
I.D. x 1-15/16" O.D. x 5/8" tall. NOTE: The float level/height must be
set correctly on ALL brass floats when installed. They do not come preset.
The correct way to set the float level is remove the carburetor from the
engine, remove the float bowl, and with the carburetor upside-down, use a
small flat blade screwdriver to bend the tab on the float slightly one way
or the other to set the float parallel with the carburetor body. Make sure
the float moves up and down freely, too. If it binds or sticks, carefully
use a flat file to narrow the sides of the hinge for clearance. Be careful
not to file into the float itself!
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 Float Stabilizer
Spring. Fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22, and Carter or Kohler
#26, #28, #30 carburetors used on competition pulling engines that run at
high RPMs or at wide open throttle. Minimizes float bouncing due to normal
single cylinder engine vibration, which could cause momentary engine misfire
and/or fuel spillage out of the atmospheric vent opening (air passageway
from inside the float bowl area to outside of carburetor). Listed mainly
for off-road utility vehicles and generator/welders; not necessary for general
lawn and garden equipment or 4,000± RPM competition pulling engines.
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 Float Bowl with
5/16" Hole. Designed for Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors
used on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, and various
other makes and models of small engines with the Carter Model N carburetor.
Dimensions: 2-3/8" O.D. x 1-1/4" height x 5/16" bottom hole. NOTE: The
float bowls listed below can be used in place of this one. The 5/16" bottom
bolt/washer will seal the 3/8" hole.
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 Carburetor Overhaul
Kits with
Viton-tip
fuel inlet float valve. Fits Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64
carburetors that's used on Kohler Magnum engine models M8, M10, M12, M14,
M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20 single- and twin-cylinder flathead cast
iron block engines. May also fit certain carburetors used on Onan engines.
All rubber-like parts made of alcohol-resistant
neoprene
rubber. Includes carburetor mounting gasket. NOTE: On all Walbro WHL #36,
#44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors, the fuel inlet seat is pressed-in
at the factory. If it's removed and replaced with a new one, the carburetor
body may be rendered useless, because it will mostly likely leak fuel. So
it'll be best to just install a new fuel inlet valve and leave the seat alone.
Remember - in the laws of physics, the moving part will wear more than the
stationary part.
 Alcohol-Resistant
Viton-tip
fuel inlet float valve. Fits Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64
carburetors that's used on Kohler Magnum engine models M8, M10, M12, M14,
M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20 single- and twin-cylinder flathead cast
iron block engines. May also fit certain carburetors used on Onan engines.
NOTE: On all Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors, the
fuel inlet seat is pressed-in at the factory. If it's removed and replaced
with a new one, the carburetor body may be rendered useless, because it will
mostly likely leak fuel. So it'll be best to just install a new fuel inlet
valve and leave the seat alone. Remember - in the laws of physics, the moving
part will wear more than the stationary part. Not available separate
from Kohler. OEM Walbro part # 82-529-7. $3.50 each, plus shipping
& handling.
 Plastic Floats. Fits Walbro
WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors used on newer Kohler Magnum
engine models M8, M10, M12, M14, M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. May
also fit certain carburetors used on Onan engines. May also fit certain
carburetors used on Onan engines.
 Float bowls. Fits Walbro WHL
#36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors used on Kohler Magnum engine models
K141, K160/K161, K181/M8, K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16, MV16, M18,
MV18, M20 and MV20. May also fit certain carburetors used on Onan engines.
2½" outside diameter. Each made of dent-proof, anodized, corrosion-resistant
steel.
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 5/16" I.D. Float
Bowl Sealing Gaskets. Fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors,
smaller Briggs & Stratton, Mikuni, Tecumseh and various other makes and
models of small engine carburetors. The 5/16" gasket is not included in the
Carter/Kohler carburetor overhaul/rebuild kit.
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| Convert the Carter or Kohler
#26, #28 or #30 Carburetors to a Bottom Main Fuel Adjuster -
How to Easily Convert the Carter or Kohler #26, #28 or #30 Carburetors
to a Bottom Main Fuel Adjuster - An ingenious and innovative concept
by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this type of foolproof
conversion.
Due to normal engine vibration at high RPM or wide open throttle operation,
the pointed tip on the OEM top high speed air/fuel needle adjuster will "severely
vibrate around" inside the main jet hole (orifice) of the main jet/nozzle.
The tip of the flexible brass needle adjuster will eventually wear the main
jet hole (orifice) so large, the engine will run rich on fuel, and over time
as the hole (orifice) wears even larger, further lean adjustments will be
impossible. This will happen with gas or alcohol fuels. There is no way to
prevent this from happening except convert the carburetor to the bottom main
fuel adjuster. And when the carburetor is reworked with the venturi bored-out
(straight-through throttle bore design) for high performance use, this equals
the performance of the popular "Super Carb" competition pulling carburetor.
(Which we think is a very fine performance carburetor.) Also, if you're wondering
if the presence of the OEM high speed adjuster tube will slow the incoming
airflow through the "straight through" throttle bore, well, the throttle
plate and shaft are about 30% wider than the high speed adjuster tube, even
with the throttle shaft ground/milled narrow or thin to allow for more airflow
through the carburetor. How to Convert a Carburetor to the Bottom Main Fuel Adjuster:
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New Brass Main
Jet/Nozzle (Emulsion Tube). Fits all Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors
used on Kohler K-series and early Magnum engine models K241, K301, K321,
K330/K331, K341, K361 and opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engines. Drilled
for gas. This part is professionally CNC machined in the USA and not available
from Kohler. NOTE: When rebuilding a plain, stock Carter or Kohler
carburetor, there is no need to remove the main jet/nozzle. If it won't come
out, then don't worry about it. All that has to be done to make sure the
bottom hole and the side holes on it are open. To check if the side holes
are open, simply spray carburetor cleaner or WD-40 or carburetor cleaner
(in an aerosol spray can) through the small hole just under the choke plate
and observe if the spray exits out the main jet/nozzle inside the throttle
bore and bottom of carburetor. But if modifying a carburetor to bore the
venturi, the main jet/nozzle must be removed.
Click or tap here
for how to remove the main jet/nozzle.
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 Kohler
Anti-Backfire/Engine Shut-Off Solenoid Valve Kit. The solenoid valve [in
the carburetor] shuts off the engine when the ignition is turned off. The
way it works is, upon engine shut down, the valve blocks air from entering
the float bowl through the atmospheric vent opening (air passageway from
inside the float bowl area to outside of carburetor; which is where the solenoid
valve is located). When this happens, the engine can't draw fuel, so it shuts
down. The solenoid is energized the entire time the ignition switch is on.
The reason Kohler installed this feature is to prevent the engine from producing
a loud backfire sound (BANG!) out the muffler when it's shut off. With the
solenoid in working condition and upon engine shut down, no unburned fuel
enters the hot muffler, therefore, no backfire. When the solenoid fails or
goes bad, the engine will not start. This particular part is designed for
Kohler engine models K181 with specification numbers: 13802, 13803, 13804,
13805, 13806, 13807, 13808, 13809, 13810, 13811, 13812, 13813, 13814, 13815,
13816, 13817, 13818, 13820, 30671, 30715, 30739; M18 with specification numbers:
24600, 24603, 24610, 24637, 24652, 49547, 49564, 49605; K582 with specification
numbers: 36246, 36249, 36261, 36266, 36268, 36285, 36389, 36310, 36389, 36327,
36202-36389, 36337, 36350, 36371, 36373, 36389, 36376, 36382, 36392. OEM
Kohler part # 25 755 05-S. $82.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
NOTE: Being the solenoid (OEM Kohler part # 25 755 06-S) for Kohler engine models M18 with specification numbers: 24563, 24568, 24574, 24577, 24592, 24594, 24599, 24619, 24630, 24631, 24636, 24646, 24655, 24656, 24659, 24664, 24674, 24696, 49514, 49544, 49545, 49565, 49569, 49570, 49572; M20 with specification numbers: 49584, 49595, 49599, 49608, 49623, 49624, 49629; MV20 with specification numbers: 57501-57514, 57527, 57528 is no longer available, to convert these engines without use of the solenoid, remove the failed solenoid and valve, cut some short threads in the hole (remove the float bowl first and use compressed air to clear out the metal cuttings), and install a 3/8" Allen set screw in the hole. Don't thread the set screw deep in the hole, or it will block off outside atmospheric air from entering the float bowl. Without a solenoid, the engine would require a different ignition switch to shut off the spark. And the engine should be idled down before shutting it off to lessen the chance of a backfire out the muffler. |
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 Idle Air/Fuel
Mixture Adjustment Screw. Fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors
with following numbers stamped on top of carburetor body: G-220517, C-231738,
B-231739, 41 053 01, 41 053 13, 41 053 18, 41 053 20 used with Kohler engine
models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161 and K181. This same part also fits the Carter
and Kohler #28 or #30 carburetors with the 1.17", 1.2" or 1.25" throttle
bore with following numbers stamped on mounting flange: 45 053 08, 45 053
09, 45 053 12, 45 053 20, 45 053 68, 45 053 70, 45 053 76, 45 053 86, 45
053 87, 45 053 88, 45 053 89, 47 053 03, 47 053 09, 47 053 15, 47 053 16,
47 053 17, 47 053 20, 47 053 30, 47 053 41, 47 053 63, 47 053 78 used with
Kohler engine models K321, K341 and K361. If there's no numbers anywhere
on the carburetor body, then it's definitely an aftermarket Chinese-made
carburetor. Because Carter, Kohler and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number
on the flange of all their carburetors. Short step tip. Dimensions: .865"
overall length x .200" tip length. High quality aftermarket. Discontinued
from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part #'s 275231-S and 200438-S. NOTE: Being
this aftermarket idle mixture screw has slightly smaller diameter threads
than the OEM idle mixture screw, it's recommended to use this with a snug-fitting
neoprene rubber O-ring (below) on an OEM Carter or Kohler carburetor.
$10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  Neoprene Rubber O-Ring for Aftermarket Idle Air/Fuel Mixture
Adjustment Screw (above) when used on the OEM Carter or Kohler #28 or #30
carburetors. This is an add-on item; Carter and Kohler carburetors did not
originally come with an O-ring on the idle mixture screw. Install this part
to help the engine start quickly (when throttle is in idle position), idle
smoothly, and idle down upon deceleration without stalling. .25¢
each, plus shipping & handling.
 Idle Air/Fuel Mixture Adjustment
Screw. Fits Carter or Kohler #26 carburetors with 1.07" throttle bore used
with Kohler engine models K241, K301 and K330/K331. Designed specifically
for Kohler carburetors with following numbers stamped on mounting flange:
47 053 07, 47 053 08, 47 053 12, 47 053 13, 47 053 14, 47 053 15, 47 053
16, 47 053 24, 47 053 29, 47 053 35, 47 053 40, 47 053 62, 47 053 80, 52
053 60. If there's no numbers anywhere on the carburetor body, then it's
definitely an aftermarket Chinese-made carburetor. Because Carter, Kohler
and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on the flange of all their carburetors.
Long step tip. Dimensions: .925" overall length x .260" tip length. Being
this is an OEM part, a rubber O-ring is not required. Not available in
aftermarket. Used and in excellent condition. Discontinued OEM Kohler
part # 235006-S. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When
available.)
 Idle Air/Fuel Mixture Adjustment
Screw. Fits Kohler carburetors used on Kohler KT-series engine models KT17,
KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, and models K482, K532 and K582. Designed
specifically for Kohler carburetors with following numbers stamped on mounting
flange: 48 053 06 (K582), 52 053 09, 52 053 18, 52 053 28. If there's
no numbers anywhere on the carburetor body, then it's definitely an aftermarket
Chinese-made carburetor. Because Carter, Kohler and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a
part number on the flange of all their carburetors. Long tapered tip.
Dimensions: 1.026" overall length x .404" tip length. Being this is an OEM
part, a rubber O-ring is not required. Not available in aftermarket.
Used and in excellent condition. Discontinued OEM Kohler part # 277210-S.
$7.45 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
 High Speed Air/Fuel Mixture
Needle Adjustment Screw. Fits certain Carter or Kohler #28, #30 carburetors
used on Kohler K-series and early Magnum single cylinder engine models K321,
K341 and K361. 3-3/8" overall length. Has two tiny holes midway on the stem
(this is important so the engine will idle correctly) and one hole on lower
stem. Lower hole enlarged so engine will start quicker (when throttle is
in idle position), idle better, and idle down upon deceleration without stalling.
There's no need to do this on adjusters with two lower holes. Designed
specifically for Kohler carburetors with following numbers stamped on mounting
flange: 4174S (Carter), 45 053 08, 45 053 12, 45 053 20, 45 053 26, 45 053
68, 45 053 70, 45 053 76, 45 053 77 and 47 053 11. IMPORTANT - Please check
numbers on carburetor before ordering and go here to identify the correct
part for any particular carburetor:
Kohler
Carburetor Reference Manual. If there's no numbers anywhere on the
carburetor body, then it's definitely an aftermarket Chinese-made carburetor.
Because Carter, Kohler and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on the flange
of all their carburetors.
 High Speed Air/Fuel Mixture
Needle Adjustment Screw. Fits certain Carter #30 carburetors used on certain
Kohler engine models K321, and Kohler #26, 1.07" throttle bore carburetors
used on Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582. 3-3/8" overall length.
Each has no tiny holes midway on the stem (this is important so the engine
will idle correctly) and one lower hole on stem. Lower hole enlarged so engine
will start quicker (when throttle is in idle position), idle better, and
idle down upon deceleration without stalling. There's no need to do this
on adjusters with two lower holes. Designed specifically for certain Carter
and Kohler carburetors with following numbers stamped on mounting flange:
A236636 (Carter #30), 47 053 03, 47 053 09, 47 053 15, 47 053 16, 47 053
17, 47 053 20, 47 053 30, 47 053 41, 47 053 63 and 47 053 78. IMPORTANT -
Please check numbers on carburetor before ordering and go here to identify
the correct part for any particular carburetor:
Kohler
Carburetor Reference Manual. But if there's no numbers stamped anywhere
on the carburetor body, then it is definitely an aftermarket Chinese-made
carburetor. Because Carter, Kohler and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number
on their carburetors.
Quality-Made High Speed Steel Spiral Drill Bit.
Use this to enlarge the lower hole (orifice) on high speed needle air/fuel
adjuster screws in Carter or Kohler #26, #28 and #30 carburetors to create
more suction through the tube for the fuel so engine will start quicker (when
throttle is in idle position), idle better, and idle down upon deceleration
without stalling. No need to use this on adjusters with two lower holes.
Useful for yard and garden engines, and competition pulling engines. Size:
1/32" diameter x 1-3/8" length. NOTE: Carefully enlarge the hole
by hand with drill bit clamped in a
mini micro pin vise hand drill chuck. Be careful when handling
any tiny drill bit because they can break easily. After enlarging hole, use
150± PSI compressed air to clear out any metal cuttings from inside
the adjuster tube. An ingenious, thoroughly researched and innovative concept
by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this.
Return To Previous Paragraph or Section
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Welch Plugs for Various Small Engine Carburetors.
Concave/dish-shaped. Each expands .002"-.003" larger in diameter when installed
and flattened out in counterbore hole. No sealant required. By the way
- on the Carter and Kohler #26, #28 and #30 carburetors, the smaller plug
just above the idle fuel adjusting needle does not need to be replaced for
cleaning of the idle fuel passageway, and there is no replacement for this
plug.
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|||
 Carburetor Mounting
Screws/Bolts w/Slotted Head and Flat Washers. Fits Kohler engine models K141,
K160/K161 and K181/M8 with Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22, or Walbro
WHL #36, #44 carburetor. NOTE: Use small slotted screwdriver to start
screws in threaded holes. Size: 1/4-20 UNC x 3/4" thread length.
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A worn loose throttle shaft is the
#1 cause of most engines wearing out and burning oil prematurely. If a carburetor
has a worn throttle shaft, this will create a vacuum leak and the engine
will idle poorly, if at all at times. With a worn throttle shaft, the engine
will draw in dusty and dirty outside air through the throttle shaft and
carburetor body, causing increased wear to the throttle shaft and possibly
carburetor body, intake valve face/seat and score the cylinder wall, and
engine will eventually burn oil, blow blue smoke out the exhaust and lose
power. More than .010" of play is considered too much for throttle shaft
wear. The most accurate way to check for the amount of wear is with a
dial indicator. Plus, at normal governed operating speed
(3,600 RPM), the extra incoming air will cause the engine to run lean on
fuel (lean out the air/fuel mixture), which will overheat the combustion
chamber and cause the cylinder head to warp, resulting in a blown head gasket,
and the piston and rings to wear prematurely, eventually resulting in severe
engine wear, excessive oil burning and loss of power.
Furthermore, all Carter or Kohler and Walbro carburetors didn't come with a throttle shaft bushing installed by the factory. A new bushing (and [oiled] foam seal; see below Ê) must be installed when the throttle shaft is worn loose in the carburetor body, or if the throttle shaft is severely worn thin, a new bushing along with a new throttle shaft (and foam seal) must be installed. The oil on the foam seal traps and blocks any dust and dirt from entering past the bushing and throttle shaft. If there's a counterbore (recession in the carburetor body) where the throttle shaft is, a short, flat bronze bushing can be installed, and if the original throttle shaft isn't worn much, it can be reused. But if there's no counterbore, the carburetor body will need to be precision aligned-bored for installation of a bronze sleeve bushing, and chances are, a new throttle shaft will also need to be installed. Precise machining of the carburetor body is required for installation of the sleeve bushing. And ALL Carter and Kohler #26, #28 and #30, and the older Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors have the counterbore. Only the newer Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64, and the Chinese-made aftermarket carburetors don't have the counterbore. If the carburetor has the counterbore, the throttle shaft will need to be removed, the dirt and debris will need to be cleaned out from the counterbore, and then the short, flat bushing can be installed. The [oiled] foam seal will need to be installed on the throttle shaft before installing in the carburetor body. But if there's no counterbore, the upper hole in the carburetor body will need to be bored out in precision alignment with the lower hole in a milling machine, and then a bronze sleeve bushing can be installed. Along with regular maintenance, proper repair of a worn throttle shaft is required to help an engine last a long time. Return To Previous Paragraph or Section |
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Protective Foam Rubber Dust/Dirt Seal
(reticulated polyurethane foam) for Throttle Shaft in certain
Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh, Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22;
Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30; Walbro WHL #36, #44, #52, #60, #64 carburetors,
and various other carburetors. For Kohler engine models K91, K141, K161,
K181/M8, K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K241/M16, K361, MV16, KT17, KT17II,
KT19, KT19II, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Dimensions (±): 7/32" I.D. (will
stretch over a 1/4" shaft) x 7/16" O.D. x 5/32" thick. NOTE: Apply clean
motor oil on seal to trap dust and dirt. When installed, seal is compressed
between throttle lever and carburetor body (or installed bushing) to prevent
dust and dirt from wearing throttle shaft and/or carburetor body.
Click or tap here to learn how to remove
Carter or Kohler throttle or choke plate retaining screws without breaking
them off. OEM Walbro part #'s 156-18-8, 156-24-8 or OEM Briggs &
Stratton part #'s 691321, 691869. $2.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. | [Top of Page] Return
To Previous Paragraph or Section
Protective Felt Dust/Dirt Seal. Fits Throttle Shaft in Certain Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh, and Kohler K482, K532 and K582 carburetors. Made of interconnected cloth fibers. Dimensions (±): 7/32" I.D. (will stretch over a 1/4" shaft) x 3/8" O.D. x 1/8" thick. NOTE: Seal is compressed between spring-loaded washer on throttle shaft and carburetor body to prevent dust and dirt from wearing throttle shaft and carburetor body. Apply clean motor oil on seal before installing to trap dust and dirt to prevent wearing of throttle shaft and/or upper hole in carburetor body or bushing. Click or tap here to learn how to remove Carter or Kohler throttle or choke plate soft brass retaining screws without breaking them off. OEM Briggs & Stratton part #'s 270167, 271853, 692279. $4.00 each, plus shipping & handling. | [Top of Page] Return To Previous Paragraph or Section
Clean out the counterbore of the carburetor body, and to align the bushing perpendicular with the counterbore, slide the bushing on a 1/4" or 6mm screw or bolt, and insert the screw or bolt in the throttle shaft hole, and use small hammer or bench vise to tap- or press-in the bushing, and then reinstall the shaft. If the bushing fits somewhat loose in the counterbore, lightly tap the sides of the counterbore with a hammer to make the counterbore slightly oblong or egg-shaped. And do not reuse the OEM soft brass throttle or choke plate retaining screws! Because being the threads are already "stretched" from being previous installed, they could break off while being tightened or possibly loosen and dislodge later, which can damage the valves or piston. If the screws loosen or become dislodged, the engine will not idle down. Additional Note: Usually the short, flat bronze bushing will snug up a worn throttle shaft. With oil for lubrication, the bushing and shaft should last a long time. However, the newer Walbro and the Chinese-made carburetors have no counterbore for the bushing, and sometimes in these carburetors, especially the Walbro, the [upper] throttle shaft hole will wear oblong. Sometimes the throttle shaft will wear, too. When the hole wears oblong, just installing a new shaft will not fix the problem. To repair a worn, oblong hole, it must be precision-bored precisely aligned with the [unworn] lower hole, and a bronze sleeve bushing would need to be installed along with a new throttle shaft. On other makes of carburetors, if the original shaft is worn and a new throttle shaft isn't available, then a new throttle shaft would need to be machined/fabricated. The throttle lever can be reused and welded to the new machined/fabricated shaft. And if necessary, a slightly oversized throttle shaft can be installed instead of the original diameter shaft. I can do all of these things for $50.00± each for parts and labor, plus return shipping & handling. A-1 Miller's Repair Service - If the throttle shaft is worn loose in a Walbro or an aftermarket Chinese-made carburetor, I can repair these, too. Work includes: Precision align-bore throttle shaft hole in carburetor body for installation of a bronze sleeve bushing. If the original throttle shaft is worn, this will need to be replaced as well. The price is $35.00 for labor to bore the carburetor body and $15.00 or $20.00 for the new throttle shaft, depending on the type of throttle lever, plus $9.00 for Priority Mail return shipping.
Throttle and Choke Plate Retaining Screws | IMPORTANT: To avoid breaking off the soft OEM brass throttle or choke plate retaining screws, use a Dremel or equivalent small rotary grinder chucked with either a chainsaw sharpening stone or an 1/8" high speed steel end mill to grind away the flared end of the screws, then the screws can be removed without breaking. If the screws break off, they can be successfully drilled out. And do not reuse the OEM soft brass throttle or choke plate retaining screws! They can break off while being tightened or possibly loosen and dislodge later, which can damage the valves or piston, and the engine will not idle down. TIP: When installing a screw to keep it from falling out of the screwdriver, for ordinary steel screws, temporarily magnetize the screwdriver by rubbing a magnet along the length of the shank, or for stainless steel screws, apply a dab of grease in the head of the screw.[Return To Previous Paragraph or Section]
Quality-Made High Speed Steel Taper Hand Taps. Taper taps allow for the tip to be inserted deeper in the hole for self-aligning, easier cutting of threads and less chance of breaking off tap in the hole.
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 High Quality
Universal Foot/Gas Pedal Kit. Easy to install on foot rest/support/running
board and adjust the cable setting to the carburetor. Most commonly used
on competition garden pulling tractors, recreational vehicles, self-propelled
pulling sleds, etc. Durable aluminum/steel construction. Kit includes: 43"
metal conduit housing x 48" sliding stranded wire inner cable (commonly used)
and two housing clamps. $46.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Heavy Duty Replacement Throttle Control Cable Assemblies for Universal Foot/Gas Throttle Pedal Assembly.
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 Throttle Shaft
w/Integrated Lever. Fits all Kohler K-series engine models K90/K91, K141,
K160/K161 and K181 with a Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20 or #22 carburetor,
and Magnum engine model M8 with a Walbro WHL #36 or #44 carburetor. Includes
screws and lock washers. NOTE: Apply clean lubricating oil on shaft before
installing for smooth throttle operation and less wear to shaft, bushing
and/or carburetor body.
Click
or tap here to learn how to remove Carter or Kohler throttle or choke plate
retaining screws without breaking them off. OEM Kohler part #
41 144 18-S. $18.05 each, plus shipping & handling. |
 Anodized Steel
Choke Shaft w/Integrated Lever. Fits all Kohler K-series engine models K141,
K160/K161 and K181 with a Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20 or #22 carburetor,
and Magnum engine model M8 with a Walbro WHL #36 or #44 carburetor. Includes
screws and lock washers. NOTE: Apply clean lubricating oil on shaft before
installing for smooth operation and less wear to shaft and/or carburetor
body.
Click
or tap here to learn how to remove Carter or Kohler throttle or choke plate
retaining screws without breaking them off. High Quality Aftermarket.
Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # 41 090 20-S. $20.00
each, plus shipping & handling. |
||
| High quality aftermarket throttle shafts w/integrated lever.
Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K330/K331, K321/M14, K341/M16
and K361. These are the old-style throttle shafts with the 11/16" screw hole
spacing for the Carter and Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors that is no longer
available from Kohler. Each come with screws and split lock washers (liquid
threadlocker not required). These throttle shafts can also be used in the
Walbro #52, #60 or #64 carburetors, with the 1.07" or 1.2" throttle plates
listed below. Each have a small hole for the throttle stabilizer spring or
a throttle return spring for competition pulling. NOTE: Being the throttle
lever is longer on the aftermarket throttle shaft, it may need to be cut
off slightly to clear the backside of the air cleaner base. And apply clean
lubricating oil on shaft before installing for smooth throttle operation
and less wear to shaft, bushing and/or carburetor body.
Click or tap here to learn how to remove
Carter or Kohler throttle or choke plate retaining screws without breaking
them off.
When ordering, please specify which
throttle shaft you need; the one with a 3/16" hole in the lever or with an
integrated 1/4" ball on the lever.
High quality aftermarket 1/4" diameter anodized steel throttle shaft with 11/16" throttle plate screw hole spacing, integrated 1/4" ball on lever for throttle linkage and small hole in lever for throttle stabilizer spring. Fits OEM Carter and Kohler #26, #28 and #30, and Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors. Replaces OEM Kohler #26, #28 and #30 "Quiet Line" carburetor throttle shafts. When replacing a worn throttle shaft in a Walbro #52 (1.07") carburetor with this throttle shaft, must use the 1.07" aftermarket throttle plate listed below. Or when replacing a worn throttle shaft in a Walbro #60 or #64 (1.2") carburetor with this throttle shaft, oblong the holes in the OEM Walbro throttle plate to match the screw holes in this shaft. Includes screws and lock washers. $20.00 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Kohler 1/4" diameter anodized steel throttle shaft with 3/4" screw hole spacing, 3/16" hole in lever for throttle linkage and small hole in lever for throttle stabilizer spring. Made specifically for Walbro WHG #60 or #64 carburetors with a 1.2" throttle bore. Includes screws and split lock washers (liquid threadlocker not required). When replacing a worn throttle shaft in a Walbro #60 or #64 carburetor with an aftermarket throttle shaft (above), use the 1.2" aftermarket throttle plate listed below. OEM Kohler part # 47 144 36-S. $26.05 each, plus shipping & handling.
To Perform the Conversion:
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 1.07" High Quality
Aftermarket Anodized Steel Throttle Plate. Fits Carter and Kohler #26 and
Chinese-made #26 aftermarket carburetors with 1.07" throttle bore originally
used on Kohler engine models K241, K301, K330/K331, KT17, KT17 Series II,
KT19, KT19 Series II, K482 and K532. To be used with OEM Carter, Kohler or
aftermarket throttle shafts listed above
È with 11/16" screw hole spacing. Replaces
discontinued Kohler part # 236668-S.
|
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 Choke Shafts
w/Integrated Short Lever. Fits Kohler K-series engine models K241, K301,
K321, K341 with a Carter/Kohler #26, #28 or #30 carburetor with a
round air cleaner/filter
assembly, and certain Magnum engine models M10, M12, M14 and M16 with
a Walbro WHL #52, #60 or #64 carburetor. Includes screws and lock washers.
NOTE - The Walbro choke plate retaining screw holes will need to be elongated
or made oblong to line up with the screw holes in the aftermarket choke
shaft. And apply clean lubricating oil on shaft before installing
for smooth operation and less wear to shaft and/or carburetor body.
Click or tap here to learn how to remove
Carter or Kohler throttle or choke plate retaining screws without breaking
them off.
|
|||
Choke Shafts
w/Integrated Long Lever. Fits all Kohler AQS "Quiet Line" engine models K241,
K301, K321, K341, K361 with a Kohler #26 or #30 carburetor with an
oblong air cleaner/filter
assembly, and certain Magnum engine models M10, M12, M14 and M16 with
a Walbro WHL #52, #60 or #64 carburetor. Includes screws and lock washers.
NOTE - The Walbro choke plate retaining screw holes will need to be elongated
or made oblong to line up with the screw holes in the aftermarket choke
shaft. And apply clean lubricating oil on shaft before installing
for smooth operation and less wear to shaft and/or carburetor body.
Click or tap here to learn how to remove
Carter or Kohler throttle or choke plate retaining screws without breaking
them off.
|
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| NOTE: The detent ball and spring are only required for
hand-operation of the choke plate to keep it in the open position on stand-alone
engines, such as garden tillers, portable generators/welders, portable air
compressors, portable water pumps, etc. If choke is operated by a sliding
remote wire cable control, such as on a garden tractor, then the ball and
spring isn't required and will serve no purpose whatsoever.
|
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   Small
Engine Remote Fuel Primer System Kits. Safe to use and works flawlessly!
Can be used on most ordinary lawn and garden tractors, garden pulling tractors,
recreational vehicles, or virtually any small engine lawn and garden or snow
removal equipment with a choke plate in the carburetor. Primer bulb can be
installed on pedestal, dashboard, instrument panel, engine control panel,
flywheel shroud, etc. Requires 1/4" mounting hole for primer bulb assembly.
Works with Carter/Kohler (OEM and aftermarket), Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh,
Mikuni, Zenith, or virtually any carburetor with a float. Works with pump
gas, race gas, E-85 or methanol fuels. The choice of professional garden
tractor pullers everywhere! With the fuel bowl atmospheric vent opening plugged
(air passageway from inside the float bowl to outside of carburetor), then
with one or two pushes of the primer bulb with your finger, air pressure
created within the float bowl forces fuel up through the main jet and out
the nozzle, creating a slight flooding condition inside the carburetor throttle
bore, allowing a cold engine to start quick. With this setup installed, the
choke plate and shaft is not needed and can be removed. No more binding of
a cable-operated choke and/or bent choke plate, or messy and unsafe "hand
choking" of the carburetor. Being the atmospheric vent opening will be plugged,
the fuel baffle splash shield
in the Carter/Kohler carburetor is not needed with this setup and will serve
no purpose whatsoever. Kit includes: New primer bulb assembly with integrated
1/8" barbed hose fitting and serrated mounting nut, 1/8" I.D. x 3/16" O.D.
x 2' length clear vinyl hose, loop-type clamp and 1/8" diameter x 1" length
brass tube. Click or tap here
for installation instructions. An ingenious and innovative concept
by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise the universal kit for use
on various small engine equipment, lawn and garden tractors or competition
pulling tractors. NOTE: If
an engine is hard to start, even with the choke plate fully closed and tuned
correctly, then it may need the valve clearances reset and/or professional
valve job performed. The reason some older engines is hard to start is because
the valve faces, especially the intake valve, wears slightly away against
the valve seat, and this causes the clearance between the valve stem and
lifter to be lessened, which will prevent the valve(s) from fully closing
to trap adequate compression in the combustion chamber [so the engine can
start easier]. This remote fuel primer system will not help an engine start
easier if it needs a valve job. [Return
to Previous Section]
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Vented Metal Gas Caps. Replace deteriorated,
damaged or missing gas cap for safety. Fits all IH-built Cub Cadet garden
tractors with a metal fuel tank, except models with a plastic fuel tank.
Also fits larger Briggs & Stratton, Clinton, Tecumseh, Lauson, Wisconsin
and various other makes and models of small engines fuel tanks with a 1-3/4"
filler neck.
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  (Added 8/17/20) Vented Gas Cap/Fuel Level Gauge w/Ribbing.
Replace deteriorated, damaged or missing gas cap for safety. Fits IH-built
Cub Cadet AQS (Quiet Line) garden tractor models 800, 1000, 1200, 1250, 1450
and 1650 with serial number 560209 and lower. 6" overall length. Fits plastic
fuel tank with 5" depth and inlet smaller than 2". OEM Cub Cadet part #
IH-61635-C3. $39.70 each, plus shipping & handling.
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 Small Size Plastic
In-Line Fuel Filters w/fine mesh metal screen. Replace clogged, deteriorated
or damaged filter to prevent fuel flow problems. Each filter installs either
direction. Dimensions of each filter: 1/4" barbed fittings x 1-3/8" maximum
diameter x 1-3/4" overall length.
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 Large Size Plastic
In-Line Fuel Filter w/pleated paper filtering material. Replace clogged and/or
deteriorated filter to prevent fuel flow problems. For engines with gravity
feed, vacuum, mechanical or electric fuel pump. Install before fuel pump
to lessen debris wear to poppet or reed valves. Dimensions: 1/4" and 5/16"
barbed fittings x 1-1/2" maximum diameter x 4-3/8" overall length.
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   Fuel Hose Clamps
for 1/4" I.D. x 1/2" O.D. black neoprene rubber reinforced fuel hose. Necessary
when using a fuel pump in a pressurized fuel system for safety, and to prevent
a vacuum leak on the suction end.
|
 1/4" I.D. x
1/2" O.D. Braided Reinforced Black Alcohol-Resistant
Neoprene
Rubber Fuel Hose. Suitable for 100% gas, E85 or methanol fuels. Maximum burst
pressure: 15 PSI.
5/16" I.D. x 5/8" O.D. Braided Reinforced Black Alcohol-Resistant Neoprene Rubber Fuel Hose. Suitable for 100% gas, E85 or methanol fuels. Maximum burst pressure: 15 PSI. .18¢ per inch, plus shipping & handling. |
||
 Straight Hose Fittings.
Use with 1/4" I.D. fuel hose and/or with a vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel
pump. Dimensions: 1/8" NPT male threads x 1/4" barbed hose fitting. Use
plumber's thread sealing tape to guarantee a leak-proof
seal. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part #'s 277483-S, X-495-1,
and Tecumseh part # 28534.
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 45º Angled
Hose Fitting. Use with 1/4" I.D. fuel hose and/or with a
vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel pump. Use
plumber's thread sealing tape to guarantee a leak-proof
seal. Dimensions: 1/8" NPT male threads x 1/4" barbed hose fitting.
|
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 90º Hose
Fittings. Use with 1/4" I.D. fuel hose and/or with a vacuum-operated/pulse-type
fuel pump. Use
plumber's thread sealing tape to guarantee a leak-proof
seal. Dimensions: 1/8" NPT male threads x 1/4" barbed hose fitting.
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 Hard Rubber
Compression Sleeve for Metal Fuel Line. Replace deteriorated, cracked, dry-rotted
compression sleeve to prevent dangerous and hazardous fuel leak. 7/32" I.D.
x .255" O.D. Other parts shown in drawing to the right have been discontinued
from Kohler.
|
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 Fuel Hose
Conversion/Upgrade Kit. Do away with the old-fashioned sediment bowl/fuel
filter and metal fuel line. This conversion/upgrade kit includes 1/4" I.D.
x 12" length reinforced black fuel hose, small in-line fuel filter, one new
straight 1/4" barbed fitting x 1/8" NPT male threads fitting (threads into
gas tank), one new 90º 1/8" NPT male threads x 1/4" barbed fitting (threads
into carburetor) and four spring-type fuel hose clamps. The fuel hose is
routed in a U-shape under carburetor. Filter is to be installed just under
fuel tank. This kit is suitable for Kohler engines with gravity feed and
the lowest part of gas tank positioned higher than the carburetor. Use
plumber's thread sealing tape on fittings to guarantee
a leak-proof seal. An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody
else advertise this kit.
|
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Durable Plastic In-Line Fuel Shut-Off Valve. alcohol-resistant neoprene seal. Fits 1/4" I.D. fuel hose. No filter. Lever rotates 90º OFF/ON position. Use for a leaky carburetor or for long term storage, and this part is required by certain pulling associations for safety. Our part # 24-1036. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
Heavy Duty, All-Metal In-Line Fuel Shut-Off Valve. Alcohol-resistant. Fits 1/4" I.D. fuel hose. No filter. Lever rotates 90º OFF/ON position. Use for a leaky carburetor or for long term storage, and this part is required by certain pulling associations for safety. Our part # 24-1166. $16.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
Heavy Duty, All-Metal In-Line Fuel Shut-Off Valve. Alcohol-resistant. Fits 5/16" I.D. fuel hose. No filter. Lever rotates 90º OFF/ON position. Use for a leaky carburetor or for long term storage, and this part is required by certain pulling associations for safety. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
|
 90º Thread-In
Fuel Tank-Mounted Shut-Off Valve w/Fine Mesh Brass Filter Screen. Used with
metal gas tanks on various Kohler engine models CH15, CH22, CH23, CH680,
ECH730, K91, K141, K161, K181, K241, K301, K341, M8, M14 and M20. Threads
into bottom of fuel tank. Has 1/8" NPT mounting threads and fits 1/4" I.D.
fuel hose. Use for a leaky carburetor or
long term storage,
and this part is required by certain pulling associations for safety. Replaces:
AMF 42879; Bolens 1703896, 1718029; Briggs & Stratton 396244, 399517,
698182; Gravely 18563; John Deere AM31850, PT8655; Kohler 220764-S; Lawn
Boy 677052; Noma 42879; Scag 48056; Snapper 2-4507, 3-4212, 24507, 34212,
7024507, 7034212; Tecumseh 27689, 27803, 28571, 29683, 430137, 430209; Toro
304-71.
|
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 Alcohol-Resistant
Neoprene
Rubber Gas Tank Fuel Fitting Bushing (Grommet). Fits Cub Cadet AQS (Quiet
Line) models and Kohler Magnum engines. Replace deteriorated, cracked,
dry-rotted, hardened bushing/grommet, which can cause dangerous and hazardous
leaking fuel. Along with either fuel fitting listed below, this part can
be used to repair (replace) the integrated fuel fitting on a plastic fuel
tank. Use oil or grease for easy installation into 9/16" hole in bottom of
plastic fuel tank. Fuel fittings and fuel shut-off valves listed below
Ê that plugs into this part. In addition
to the fitting listed below Ê, for
competition pulling only, this part can also be used as a fuel return system
in fuel tank when burning methanol or diesel fuels. Replaces: AMF 42690;
Ariens 07509300, 07511400; Bolens 1738433; Briggs Power Products 78299GS,
80269GS; Exmark 1-513645; Ferris 22151; Kohler 25 313 01-S; Lawn-Boy 104047,
708331, 46-6560; MTD 735-0149, 1738433, 935-0149, 1903198, 1902479, GW-1738433,
GW-B1738433, 581615; Murray 42690; Noma 44847; Scag 48309; Simplicity 1654930;
Snapper 12337, 74158, 7012337, 7074158; Tecumseh 33679; Toro 46-6560, 1-513645,
E513645; Wheel Horse/Toro 104047; 104047P.
|
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 90º Metal
Plug-In Fuel Tank Fitting w/o Filter Screen. Fits Cub Cadet "Quiet Line"
models and Kohler Magnum engines. Use with in-line fuel filter. 1/2" fitting
fastens in neoprene rubber bushing/grommet (above
È) in bottom of plastic fuel tank. Along
with the grommet above, this part can be used to repair (replace) the fuel
fitting on a plastic fuel tank. Use oil or grease for easy installation.
1/4" barbed hose fitting. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-109042-C2 (except
w/o shut-off valve); Wheel Horse 04048 (except w/o shut-off valve and filter
screen).
|
|||
 90º Metal
Plug-In Fuel Tank Shut-Off Valve w/o Filter Screen. Fits Cub Cadet AQS (Quiet
Line) models and Kohler Magnum engines. Use with in-line fuel filter. 1/2"
fitting fastens in neoprene rubber bushing (above
È) in bottom of plastic fuel tank. Along
with the grommet above, this part can be used to repair (replace) the fuel
fitting on a plastic fuel tank. Use oil or grease for easy installation.
1/4" barbed hose fitting. Use for a leaky carburetor or
long term storage.
Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-109042-C2 and Kohler part # 25 462 01-S (except
w/o filter screen); Wheel Horse 104048 (except w/o filter screen).
|
|||
 90º Metal
Plug-In Fuel Tank Shut-Off Valve w/Fine Mesh Filter Screen. Fits Briggs &
Stratton, Cub Cadet AQS (Quiet Line) models and Kohler Magnum engines. 1/2"
fitting fastens in neoprene rubber bushing (above
È) in bottom of plastic fuel tank. Along
with the grommet above, this part can be used to repair (replace) the fuel
fitting on a plastic fuel tank. Use oil or grease for easy installation.
1/4" barbed hose fitting. Use for a leaky carburetor or
long term storage.
Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-109042-C2; Wheel Horse 104048 (except w/filter
screen).
|
|||
 High Quality 90º
Plastic Plug-In Fuel Tank Shut-Off Valve w/Fine Mesh Filter Screen and
Alcohol-Resistant
Neoprene
Rubber Grommet Kit. Fits Briggs & Stratton, Cub Cadet AQS (Quiet Line)
models and Kohler Magnum engine fuel tanks. Neoprene rubber grommet plugs
into bottom of plastic fuel tank, and fuel fitting fastens in the grommet.
These parts can also be used to repair a damaged threaded fuel outlet hole
on the bottom of a plastic fuel tank by drilling out threads with a 9/16"
drill bit, then install grommet and fitting. Use automotive grease for easy
insertion of each part. 1/4" and 5/16" stepped barbed fuel hose fitting.
Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-109042-C2; Wheel Horse 104048 (except w/filter
screen).
|
|||
 1/8" NPT x 1/8"
NPT x 3/4" length [close] steel pipe connector. Use to fasten fuel shut-off
/filter/sediment bowl assembly (listed below
Ê) to fuel tank. Use
plumber's thread sealing tape to guarantee a leak-proof
seal.
|
|||
 Fuel
Shut-Off/Filter/Sediment Bowl Assembly. Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models
70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127,
147, and replacement for many other makes and models of older lawn and garden
engines. Filters out small particles of debris and dirt from fuel and separates
water from gas. Threads into bottom of fuel tank. Use for a leaky carburetor
or long term storage,
and this part is required by certain pulling associations for safety. Use
plumber's thread sealing tape to guarantee a leak-proof
seal. Dimensions - overall height: 3"; maximum width (not including shut-off
valve): 1-3/4"; thread fittings: inlet (top) and outlet (side) are both 1/8"
NPT. Use fuel hose conversion/upgrade kit (above
È) instead if you wish. Complete assembly
discontinued from Kohler. Replaces: Kohler A-210101; Briggs & Stratton
293964, 295913, 295977, 296005, 393169, 690612; Clinton 293-32-500, 293-32-5;
Gravely 010313; John Deere PT4337; Tecumseh 24449, 24459, 32164, 32439, 32984,
32984A, 34279, 34279A, 34279B; Wisconsin LP43.
|
|||
Alcohol-resistant
neoprene
rubber O-ring seal for shut-off valve shaft in fuel shut-off/filter/sediment
bowl assembly listed above È. Replace
deteriorated, cracked and dry-rotted O-ring or leather packing, which can
cause dangerous and hazardous leaking fuel. Dimensions: 1/8" I.D. x 1/4"
O.D.
|
 Replacement
glass bowl for fuel shut-off/filter/sediment bowl assembly listed above
È. Dimensions: 1-1/2" maximum width
x 1-1/8" height. Replaces: Briggs & Stratton # 298683; John Deere # PT4271.
|
||
 Gasket
(Alcohol-Resistant Neoprene Rubber Seal) for fuel shut-off/filter/sediment
bowl assembly listed above È. Dimensions:
1-1/4" I.D. x 1-1/2" O.D. x .060" thickness.
|
 Fine Mesh Brass
Filter Screen for Fuel Sediment Bowl Assembly listed above
È. 1-1/4" O.D.
|
||
Wingnuts, Pleated Air Filters and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters -
| If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services
listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises
| 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. When
you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with
the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to the
public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate our business to other property with a bigger and better
shop so we can hire more help and provide many more high quality parts and
professional services.) |
|
| TIP: When installing a screw to keep it from falling out
of the screwdriver, for ordinary steel screws, temporarily magnetize the
screwdriver by rubbing a magnet along the length of the shank, or for stainless
steel screws, apply a dab of grease in the head of the screw.
Quality-Made High Speed Steel Plug Hand Taps -
|
|
 Each wingnut
listed below recommended for side-mounted air cleaner covers or battery hold-down
studs. Do not use on top-mounted air cleaner covers due to water from washing
off engine or rain water that may seep into intake. 1/4-20 UNC threads. Replaces
Kohler part #'s X-276-7 and 25 100 15-S.
 Heavy Gauge Stamped Steel Wingnuts
with Adhered Rubber Seal. Recommended for top-mounted air cleaner covers
to prevent water from washing off engine or rain water seeping into intake.
Also, rubber seal prevents wingnut from loosening. 1/4-20 UNC threads.
|
|
  Pleated Air Filter Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters.
Fits certain Kohler K-series engine models K91, K141, K161 and K181.
Non-restricting flame retardant filtering material. Performance engineered
for increased breathing. Air filter: Kohler 230840-S; Cub Cadet 385163R2;
Clinton 002-0233-00; Gravely 20299; John Deere AM31034; Massey 1035-991-M1;
Tecumseh 30804. Foam Wrap/Prefilter: Kohler 234870-S; John Deere AM31034;
Massey Ferguson 1035-991. Air filter element dimensions (±): 4-3/8"
O.D. x 3" I.D. x 1-1/2" overall height.
NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/prefilter, use electrical contact cleaner, brake parts cleaner, cleaning solvent or paint thinner (these leave no oily residue) and 150± PSI compressed air, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because some of the oil could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is running, partially clogging it. |
|
 Pleated Air Filters and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters. Fits
certain Kohler K-series engine model K181. Non-restricting flame retardant
filtering material. Performance engineered for increased breathing. Air filter:
Kohler 231847-S; Cub Cadet 548436R1; Gravely 15373; John Deere AM30800; Tecumseh
31925; Onan 140-1188, 140-188; Rol Air 431. Foam Wrap/Prefilter: Kohler 234869-S
(K-series), 41 083 04-S (Magnum). Air filter element dimensions (±):
4-3/8" O.D. x 3" I.D. x 2-5/16" overall height.
NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/prefilter, use electrical contact cleaner, brake parts cleaner, cleaning solvent or paint thinner (these leave no oily residue) and 150± psi compressed air, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because some of the oil could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is running, partially clogging it. |
|
 Pleated Air Filter Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters.
Fits various Kohler engine models K141, K161, K181/M8, K241/M10, K301/M12
and K321/M14 with the short
round metal air cleaner/filter assembly. Non-restricting flame retardant
filtering material. Performance engineered for increased breathing. Air filter:
Kohler 235116-S; Cub Cadet 385168R2. Foam Wrap/Prefilter: Kohler 237421-S.
Air filter element dimensions (±): 6" O.D. x 4-11/16" I.D. x 1-7/8"
overall height.
NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/prefilter, use electrical contact cleaner, brake parts cleaner, cleaning solvent or paint thinner (these leave no oily residue) and 150± psi compressed air, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because some of the oil could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is running, partially clogging it. |
|
 Pleated Air Filter Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters.
Fits certain Kohler and Magnum engine models K241, K301, K321, K341, CH11-15,
KT17, KT19, and M18-20 engines with the
AQS (Quiet Line) oblong-shaped
metal air cleaner/filter assembly. Fits Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) series
engines in Cub Cadet models 680, 1000, 1050, 1200, 1204, 1211, 1250, 1282,
1450 and 1650. Non-restricting flame retardant filtering material. Performance
engineered for increased breathing. Air filter: Kohler 47 083 01-S; Cub Cadet
117210-C1, 759-3547, 959-3547; Gravely 032494, John Deere M83646, Lesco 012596.
Foam Wrap/Prefilter: Kohler 52 083 01-S. Air filter element dimensions
(±): 7" O.D. x 5-1/2" I.D. x 1-3/4" overall height.
NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/prefilter, use electrical contact cleaner, brake parts cleaner, cleaning solvent or paint thinner (these leave no oily residue) and 150± psi compressed air, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because some of the oil could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is running, partially clogging it. |
|
 Pleated Air Filter Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters.
Fits Kohler engine models K341, CH18-25, CV18-22, KT17 Series II, KT19 Series
II and M18-20; for 17 thru 22hp engines with the
AQS (Quiet Line) oblong-shaped
metal air cleaner/filter assembly. Fits Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) series
engines. Non-restricting flame retardant filtering material. Performance
engineered for increased breathing. Air filter: Kohler 47 083 03-S; John
Deere M47494 (fits JD models 200, 210, 212, 214, 216, 300, 312, 314, 316,
400); Woods 71803. Foam Wrap/Prefilter: Kohler 41 083 04-S. Air filter
element dimensions (±): 7" O.D. x 5-1/2" I.D. x 2-7/16" overall
height.
NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/prefilter, use electrical contact cleaner, brake parts cleaner, cleaning solvent or paint thinner (these leave no oily residue) and 150± psi compressed air, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because some of the oil could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is running, partially clogging it. |
|
Pleated Air Filter Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters.
Fits Kohler engine models K341, CH18-25, CV18-22, KT17 Series II, KT19 Series
II and M18-20; for 17 thru 22hp engines with the
AQS (Quiet Line) oblong-shaped
metal air cleaner/filter assembly. Fits Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) series
engines. Non-restricting flame retardant filtering material. Performance
engineered for increased breathing. Air filter: Kohler 47 083 03-S; John
Deere M47494 (fits JD models 200, 210, 212, 214, 216, 300, 312, 314, 316,
400); Woods 71803. Foam Wrap/Prefilter: Kohler 41 083 04-S. Air filter
element dimensions (±): 7" O.D. x 5-1/2" I.D. x 2-7/16" overall
height.
NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/prefilter, use electrical contact cleaner, brake parts cleaner, cleaning solvent or paint thinner (these leave no oily residue) and 150± psi compressed air, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because some of the oil could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is running, partially clogging it. |
|
  Pleated Air Filter
Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters. Fits certain Kohler engine
models M8, K321/M14, K341/M16, KT17 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20
with the tall round metal air
cleaner/filter
assembly. Can also
be used on a garden pulling tractor, mini rods, hot rods, race cars, etc.
with an automotive engine. Non-restricting flame retardant filter. Performance
engineered for increased breathing. Air filter: Kohler 45 083 02-S; Cub Cadet
759-3359. Foam Wrap/Prefilter: Kohler 45 083 01-S. Air filter element
dimensions (±): 6" O.D. x 4-11/16" I.D. x 3" overall height.
NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/prefilter, use electrical contact cleaner, brake parts cleaner, cleaning solvent or paint thinner (these leave no oily residue) and 150± PSI compressed air, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because some of the oil could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is running, partially clogging it. |
|
 Pleated Air Filter Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters.
Fits various Kohler engine models K241, K301, K341, K482, K532 and K582 with
the tall round-shaped metal
air cleaner/filter assembly. Can also be used on mini rods, hot rods,
race cars, etc. with an automotive engine. Non-restricting flame retardant
filtering material. Performance engineered for increased breathing. Air filter:
Kohler 277138-S. Foam Wrap/Prefilter: Kohler 277593-S. Air filter element
dimensions (±): 6" O.D. x 4-3/4" I.D. x 4" overall height.
NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/prefilter, use electrical contact cleaner, brake parts cleaner, cleaning solvent or paint thinner (these leave no oily residue) and 150± psi compressed air, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because some of the oil could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is running, partially clogging it. |
|
| NOTE: Air filters and foam wraps/prefilters are
available for many other makes and models of engines. If you need something
that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's with your
engine model and specification numbers and I'll see if we can get it for
you at a reasonable price. Please contact A-1 Miller's
if you're interested in any of the listed above
È parts or items.
|
The Carburetor (Intake) Air/Fuel Mixture Baffle Plate - (Added 1/30/18) [Top of Page]
The OEM Kohler Carburetor (Intake)
Air/Fuel Mixture Baffle Plate is made of .018" thickness aluminum, is installed
(sandwiched) between two mounting gaskets between the carburetor and intake
manifold or engine block. Its purpose is to "swirl" the incoming air/fuel
mixture to atomize the fuel better with the air so the engine will produce
more horsepower and torque. According to
kohlerplus.com, this
particular part (Kohler part #'s 52 063 40-S and 82 755 24-S, both discontinued
from Kohler) originally came on Kohler Magnum opposed twin cylinder M18 engines
with specification numbers: 24620 (AYP tractor), 24644 (AYP tractor), 24646
(Cub Cadet), 24665 (AYP tractor), 24666 (AYP tractor); and MV18 engines with
specification numbers: 58553 (AYP tractor), 58556 (AYP tractor), 58560 (AYP
tractor), 58561 (AYP tractor); and M20 engines with specification numbers:
49603 (AYP tractor), 49634 (AYP tractor); and MV20 engines with specification
numbers: 57525 (Exmark), 57526 (Yardman), 57527 (AYP tractor), 57528 (AYP
tractor), 57529 (AYP tractor). It can also be used on the Kohler single cylinder
engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 for improved performance.
Return To Previous Paragraph or Section
How to repair stripped-out air cleaner/filter base mounting screw holes
in a Carter, Kohler #26, #28, #30 or Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetor.
- An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody
else advertise these repair procedures.
(Updated 9/11/18)
Method #1: On the Kohler #26 or #30 carburetors with five air cleaner/filter base mounting screw holes (2 for the K-series, and 3 for the AQS (Quiet Line) models), if the two lower holes (located at the 4:00 and 8:00 positions) are stripped-out but not overly enlarged...
Method #2: Do this when the holes are too big for 10-32 UNF screws are described above, Heli-Coil thread inserts, or even 12-24 UNC screws will not fix the problem. NOTE: It takes a person with expert mechanical skills to perform the repair mentioned below Ê work. I have done this many times and it works great.
Parts needed:
Several inches of 1/4-20 UNC
mild steel threaded rod. If the holes in the carburetor body are already
1/4", then use 5/16-18 UNC mild steel threaded rod. (All Thread,
long threaded rod or long threaded bolt.) NOTE: 5/16" is the maximum
that can fit.
1/4" x 2"+ long solid aluminum
rod.
When removing the choke shaft, there's a tiny
(1/8" or 5/32") steel ball and small compression spring located at the 9:00
position when facing the choke end with the float area down. When the choke
shaft is removed, hold one finger over the end of the choke shaft hole and
the screw hole to prevent the ball from popping out and possibly getting
lost. By the way - the ball and spring is required only for hand-operation
of the choke plate to keep it in the open position on stand-alone engines,
such as on a garden tiller, portable generator/welder, portable air compressor,
portable water pump, etc. The ball and spring is not needed if the choke
is remotely operated with a choke cable, such as on a garden tractor, etc.
Drill an 11/64" hole through the
insert(s). For accuracy, it's best to use a drill press or milling machine
to do this. Heat from the drilling process
may cause the threadlocker material to loosen, which could cause the insert
to thread down in the choke shaft hole. To prevent the insert from unthreading,
insert the 1/4" aluminum rod through the choke shaft holes so the insert
will bottom out against the aluminum. Allow the drill bit to penetrate the
aluminum slightly to go the full length of the insert. And to lessen the
chance of overheating the threadlocker material when drilling the hole, use
plenty of cutting oil, and drill slowly into hole(s) with a 5/32" drill bit,
then finish with the 11/64" bit. Use sharp (preferably new) drill bits,
too.
Never Over-Tighten the Mounting Bolts or Use Multiple Gaskets When Fastening the Carburetor to the Engine! (Updated 11/26/16)
When installing the carburetor
to an engine, the use of two or more gaskets and then torquing the mounting
bolts to specs, or just over-tightening the bolts will severely warp the
mounting flange on a carburetor, causing it to bend, which will create a
vacuum leak, or worse yet, being cast aluminum don't bend or flex too easily,
the flange could break. So remember, before installing any carburetor, first
resurface the mounting flange on a
wide, flat belt sander or large disc sander, or on the
side of an abrasive metal cutting wheel on a
electric chop saw (the kind that automotive muffler shops
use) to remove any warpage and restore flatness (be sure to use eye protection!),
and for general lawn and garden use, install just one thin (.030" thickness)
gasket or one (5/32" thickness) heat isolator
gasket. And be sure to use the "two-bolt torque" sequence! To do this,
lightly tighten the first bolt, then lightly tighten the second bolt, and
tighten the first bolt securely, and then tighten the second bolt securely.
If a Carter or Kohler or Walbro carburetor body is broken and/or damaged beyond repair, the carburetor body is 100% scrap metal. (If the threads for the float bowl retaining bolt are stripped-out, read below Ê.) But the parts on the carburetor body are considered valuable and can be used on another carburetor body that's in good condition (if some of the parts are in fact reusable). Parts such as: throttle and choke shafts and plates, choke friction (detent) ball and spring, idle speed adjusting screw and spring, idle fuel mixture screw and spring, high speed air/fuel needle adjuster and spring, main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube), fuel inlet valve and seat (if not worn and leaks fuel), float, float pin, float bowl, neoprene rubber O-ring seal, fuel baffle/splash shield, bowl retaining screw, and fuel hose fitting. The OEM (US) manufacturers are phasing out many parts for flathead engines due to EPA smog emissions. But some parts may still be available in aftermarket.
How to Repair Stripped-Out Float Bowl Retaining Bolt Threads in a Carter
or Kohler or Walbro Carburetor - An ingenious and innovative concept
by Brian Miller, because nobody else mentions these type of repairs.
But if the threads
for the float bowl retaining bolt are stripped-out in a Carter Model N #13,
#16, #18, #20, #22 carburetor, an 8mm fine thread (M8 x 1.25 pitch) metric
bolt can be used. But if the metric threads become stripped-out, then a 3/8-24
UNF bowl retaining bolt (for the Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 or Walbro
WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors) can be used. For the 8mm
metric bolt, an 8mm x 1.25
bottom hand tap will need to be used. But for a 3/8-24
bolt, the stripped-out hole will need to be enlarged with a 21/64" drill
bit (be careful not to drill into the main jet; there's no need to remove
the main jet/nozzle), and new threads will need to be cut
perpendicular
to the carburetor body with a 3/8-24 UNF
bottom hand tap. A bottom tap cuts the threads deeper with
very little taper at the end. Do not complete the tapping process with just
a taper or plug tap because the threads may not go deep enough for the bigger
bolt. However, the threads can be started with a taper or plug tap, but will
need to be finished with the bottom tap. Then use 150± PSI compressed
air to thoroughly clear out the metal drilling/cuttings from the main jet/nozzle
(emulsion tube) and entire carburetor! A 3/8" I.D. fiber washer will need
to be used with the 3/8" bolt, and the hole in the float bowl will need to
be drilled out to 3/8" to match the bolt in the carburetor, or use a float
bowl with a 3/8" hole. And do not over-tighten the metric bolt to prevent
from stripping the new threads. If the metric threads strip out, the carburetor
body is scrap metal.
If the threads for the float
bowl retaining bolt are stripped-out in a Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30,
Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 or virtually any other carburetor
that use a 3/8"-24 UNF float bowl retaining bolt, a 10mm fine thread (M10
x 1.25 pitch) x 3/8" thread length bolt can be used. If a 3/8" length metric
bolt can't be found, a longer bolt that's made of mild steel can be machined
down (shortened) in a metal lathe. IMPORTANT:
If you don't feel comfortable using a metal lathe, please consult a professional
and experienced machinist with a lathe. Being the stripped-out
hole is already large enough for the M10 x 1.25 threads to be cut, so it
won't need to be drilled out. But if it does need drilling out (enlarging),
use an 8.8 mm or 11/32" drill bit (be careful not to drill into the main
jet; there's no need to remove the main jet/nozzle), then new threads will
need to be cut
perpendicular
to the carburetor body with a M10 x 1.25
bottom hand tap. A bottom tap cuts the threads deeper
with very little taper at the end. Do not complete the tapping process with
just a taper or plug tap because the threads may not go deep enough for the
metric bolt. However, the threads can be started with a taper or plug tap,
but will need to be finished with the bottom tap. Then use 150± PSI
compressed air to thoroughly clear out the metal drilling/cuttings from the
main jet/nozzle and entire carburetor! Also, the holes in the fiber washer
and in the float bowl for the retaining bolt will need to be enlarged to
13/32" to match the bolt in the carburetor. And do not over-tighten the metric
bolt to prevent from stripping the new threads. If the metric threads strip
out, the carburetor body is scrap metal. But save everything off of it because
they can be used on another carburetor body that's in good condition.
On a used (and supposedly clean) carburetor, if the float bowl
retaining bolt will not effortlessly tighten against the float bowl to secure
it in place, DO NOT FORCE THE BOLT TO TIGHTEN! Doing this may cause the thin-wall
metal to split, possibly rendering the carburetor useless. The resistance
in threading the bolt in the hole is caused by debris "gumming up" the threads
in the carburetor body (or in the threads of the bolt). Instead, clean the
threads in the carburetor body with a 3/8-24 UNF BOTTOM hand tap, then use
150± PSI compressed air to clear out the debris. With a bottom tap,
there's no need to remove the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube). But if the
protruding part where the float bowl bolt threads into is previously cracked
or does split, a spring-loaded 1/2" fuel hose clamp can be installed over
the protruding part with the opening in the clamp opposite the crack. This
will reinforce the aluminum, squeeze the tube back to its original size and
prevent the crack from spreading when the bolt is tightened. After the clamp
is installed, grind the protruding tangs flush with the clamp so they will
not make contact with and interfere with the operation of the float. The
clamp will then become a permanent part of the carburetor. And if any part
of the clamp blocks off the fuel feed holes, a new 3/32" fuel feed hole will
need to be drilled through the opening in the clamp so fuel from the float
bowl can reach the main jet/nozzle. This size hole should be big enough to
allow plenty of fuel to enter through the main jet. An ingenious and
innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this type
of repair.
How to Repair the Vacu-Jet (3hp) and Pulsa-Jet (3.5 or 4hp) Automatic Choke Carburetor on a Vertical Shaft Briggs & Stratton Flathead Engine - [Top of Page]
The Vacu-Jet carburetor
operates off of engine vacuum to delivery fuel to the engine. (The very first
Vacu-Jet carburetors have a manual choke, and no diaphragm. The second design
Vacu-Jet carburetor use a diaphragm, and have a manual choke. The third design
Vacu-Jet use a diaphragm and has an automatic choke.) And the Pulsa-Jet has
a built-in fuel pump to delivery fuel to the engine. Both of the [newest
design] Vacu-Jet and Pulsa-Jet carburetors have an automatic choke. If either
of these carburetors run rich on fuel, and the choke will not open after
starting, what has happened is where the carburetor is fastened to the fuel
tank, these two "mating surfaces" has become warped. This is caused by
over-tightening of the air filter housing screw. To fix this...
After resurfacing, use a
hacksaw blade to recut (or deepen) the shallow groove from the choke bellow
well to the vacuum port. Doing this will allow the choke plate to open
immediately when the engine starts. Failure to do this will allow the choke
plate to open very slowly or not open at all, which will cause the engine
to flood out and die.
How to Repair the Pulsa-Jet Carburetor on a Vertical or Horizontal Shaft 5hp Briggs & Stratton Flathead Engine -
If a 5hp B&S engine has excellent spark and adequate compression, but doesn't run right, then the problem is obviously in the carburetor. To fix the problem...
Install a new fuel pump
diaphragm, carburetor to tank gasket and carburetor to block gasket, set
the fuel mixture adjustment screw about 1-½ turns out, and make the
final adjustment after the engine runs.
How to clean the main jet in a 16hp/18hp flathead opposed (flathead) twin cylinder Briggs & Stratton engine -
The main jet is located in the float bowl of the carburetor. To access and clean it...
Your engine should rev up without using the choke afterwards! This may have to be done every few years because these type of carburetors are notorious for having tiny particles of dirt/debris that passes through the fuel filter settle at the bottom of the float bowl. The main jet is real close to the bottom of the float bowl too, which allows dirt/debris to clog it over time.
A-1 Miller's Computerized Stuska Water Brake Engine Dynamometer (Dyno) Service with DPM Data Logger Software to Test Horsepower and Torque! | [Top of Page]
For performance testing of 10-16hp
single cylinder Kohler stock or competition pulling engines at speeds up
to 12,000 RPM. 100% accurate, customers can rent dyno time, fine tune and
make adjustments or changes to their engines to gain maximum horsepower and
torque, and print-out the results so their tractor(s) will be truly competitive
on the track. With an engine dyno, the puller can adjust their engine to
get maximum horsepower and torque, and gear their tractor appropriately to
have an advantage over the competition. NOTE: A fresh-built engine may
not produce full power until it's broke-in. This is when the valves wear-in
with the seats to completely seal in the compression. The rings will likely
hold the compression, but the valves may leak slightly until they wear into
the seats. This is normal for all engines and may take several hours or pulls
to happen, then the valves will be able to hold full compression. Lots of
pullers tell A-1 Miller's after I've built their engines that it seems to
pull stronger every time they pull it.
Engine Dyno Rental Fee: $50.00 per hour run time from the moment the engine is started. No setup fee for Cub Cadet engines with a 3- or 6-pin/stud clutch driver. An adapter may need to be needed or fabricated for other makes and models of engines. Only engines with the narrow base oil pan can be tested. Engines with the wide base (tall) oil pan cannot be tested at this time. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]
Coming Soon - Detailed Illustrated
Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back and Self-Propelled Garden
Tractor Pulling Sled. FYI - The
professionally-built self-propelled pulling sled is the only one I've ever
built (click the picture to the right to see a larger image of this sled),
and I got it right the first time, with very few changes or modifications
that had to be made to it. I guess I'm just one of those kind of guys that
knows what he's doing. Pullers really like pulling our sled, too. They say
it's the best sled they've ever pulled. (Not bragging, just stating a fact.)
By the way - Track Master sled is engineered so well (by Brian Miller), that
other sled builders/owners have copied my well thought-out and proven design.
And I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence. Anyway, I have lots
of work to do in my shop and I work on the sled plans in my spare time. As
soon as my plans with an inventory list of parts to use are perfected, I'll
post the update in my websites with the prices of the plans. Remember -
Perfection takes time. If it's worth having, it's worth waiting for. Also,
I plan to acquire a bigger shop and may build high quality garden tractor
pulling sleds in the future to offer for sale. Please call 573-256-0313 (shop)
or 573-881-7229 (cell; text or voice message), or email
pullingtractor@aol.com if interested.
- Brian Miller
If you would like to purchase
any of the parts or services listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's
Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri)
65203-9136 USA | Phone:
1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice
message, please speak slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except
holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later.
(When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. When
you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with
the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to the
public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate our business to other property with a bigger and better
shop so we can hire more help and provide many more high quality parts and
professional services.)
To place an order, please call the number below Ê or send an email with your name, complete and correct postal address and phone number and so I can figure the total with shipping cost and USPS Tracking. For payment options for parts ordered or services performed, or to make a donation to my websites, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge), Western Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram Money Transfers. (If a part for a specific purpose is special ordered, your debit/credit card may be charged for the full amount or as a deposit right after your order is placed; please do not send your debit/credit card information in email!) Or you can pay A-1 Miller's through PayPal. (My PayPal account name is my email address. And be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment is for.) If sending a money order, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone number and a description of what the payment is for. My mailing address and phone number are below Ê . I'll make a note of your order, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send the parts to you as soon as I have everything in stock after I receive your payment.
IMPORTANT - When sending your part(s) to A-1 Miller's for rebuilding or repair, package everything securely so the item(s) won't get damaged in shipping and please include a note in the box with your name, mailing address, phone number (in case I have any questions) and a description of what you want done. When shipping heavy parts, it's best to put a slightly smaller box inside a larger box, to double the strength and integrity of the package. Because the clumsy "gorillas" or incompetent and uncaring workers that work for certain delivery services mishandle the heavy packages and don't care. And when the work is completed, I'll either call or email you an invoice with the total including shipping & handling.
Payment Options and We Ship to Canada and
Worldwide 
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent
by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged
item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service
Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal
Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S.
territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground
or equivalent services. We try to keep our shipping cost to customers within
reason. Therefore, we don't ship our products in a fancy-looking package
with our company name and/or logo on it because most customers will just
toss it in the trash after they remove the contents. And being there is no
USPS tracking number outside the US, all I can do is make sure I write your
address correctly on the customs form and on your package.
My websites are not set up to process orders and accept payments. Therefore, for payment options, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total amount for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge), Western Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram Money Transfers. If paying with a credit/debit card, please call me at either number below. To make a payment to me through PayPal, please click this link: https://www.paypal.me/PullingTractor. Please use the "Friends and Family" option, or add 3% to the total amount to cover PayPal's processing surcharge. Or to make a payment to me (pullingtractor@aol.com) in the US through the Venmo app, please click this link: venmo.com. Or use Cash App to make a payment to me (pullingtractor@aol.com). And be sure to mention in PayPal, Venmo or Cash App a description of what the payment is for with your full name, postal address, phone number and email address. If sending a money order or cashier's check, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete mailing address, phone number, email address and a description of what the payment is for. I'll make a note of your order when I have all your information, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send everything on your list to you as soon as I have the parts in stock after I receive your payment.
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Copyright © 1996-Present. This website created, designed and maintained by Brian Miller.
Back in the day (early 1980s
and earlier), gasoline at most
$117.85 each,
plus shipping & handling.
$156.60 each,
plus shipping & handling.
Stock-appearing
carburetor is modified internally to improve engine performance.
$85.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling. Extra charge if
any parts are needed. Labor includes what's listed below, plus whatever high
quality parts and additional services it may need that's listed below.
NEW fully adjustable Kohler
#26 and #30 carburetors bored-out and reworked for high performance use.
A bored-out venturi and reworked carburetor is when the carburetor is modified
for maximum performance for general yard and garden use, and/or for competition
pulling. These carburetors have been internally modified to outperform a
stock OEM Carter or Kohler carburetor under heavy competition pulling load,
and when adjusted correctly, will not run lean at high RPM while going down
the track. Will pass tech with virtually any club. The venturi in these
carburetors are bored to either 7/8", .995", 1" or 1.2" straight-through
throttle bore for high RPM operation, setup for gas, E85 or methanol fuels,
whatever your club's sanctioning rules allow or whatever you desire for all-out
engine performance. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture bore.) OEM will be
initially set on the carburetor to get the engine running, but due to the
altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where
the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture bore.)
OEM will need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth. All
carburetors that we repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to be
free of defects and come with a limited one year workmanship warranty from
date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE professional technical support.
Please specify if engine has stock size valves or oversize valves.
NEW High Quality "Made in
China" Aftermarket Kohler-replicated #26 fully adjustable carburetor. Fits
Kohler engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, MV16, M18,
MV18, M20 and MV20. Direct replacement. Same function and appearance
as OEM Carter or Kohler carburetor. Comes with a changeable upward or
downward swing choke lever to match the position of the lever on your original
carburetor. Simply remove the retaining screw and reposition the choke lever
according to your application. (This is a feature A-1 Miller's offer
that other sellers do not.) When ordering, please specify the position
of the choke lever. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will
be initially set on the carburetor just to get the engine running, but due
to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature
where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture
adjustments will need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth.
Each come with a one year warranty from date of purchase.
Float Bowls with 3/8" Hole.
Fits Carter and Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors used on Kohler engine models
K241, K301, K330/K331, K321, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19
Series II, K482, K532 and K582. Also fits Briggs and Stratton 7hp-12hp vertical
shaft flathead engine carburetors. NOTE: The Briggs & Stratton steel
float bowl has the exact same dimensions as the Carter/Kohler aluminum float
bowl. Either are interchangeable. (The early B&S 7-12hp vertical shaft
flathead engine float carburetors was designed and made by the
Alcohol-Resistant
Alcohol-Resistant
3/8" I.D. Float Bowl Sealing
Gaskets. Fits Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors, Walbro WHL #36, #44
carburetors, WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors. Also fits certain larger Briggs
& Stratton and various other makes and models of small engine carburetors.
Included with Carter/Kohler carburetor overhaul/rebuild kit. Each washer
listed below replaces Kohler part #'s 12 041 06-S, 25 041 03-S.
Float Bowl Retaining Bolts.
Fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors used on Kohler engine
models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, including many other makes and models
of various small engines. Each includes fiber sealing washer. Dimensions:
1/2" head x 5/16-24 UNF threads x 3/8" thread length.
The bottom high speed main air/fuel
adjustment assembly is not an OEM Kohler part and is not a modification by
Kohler. This is an absolute must for a competition pulling engine that runs
at very high RPM or wide open throttle. It provides no high performance engine
enhancements whatsoever. It's an add-on feature that replaces the OEM float
bowl retaining bolt above È only to
prevent wearing or enlarging the fuel suction hole in the main jet by the
OEM high speed needle air/fuel adjustment screw due to normal engine vibration
at very high RPM or wide open throttle engine operations. (Whoever says that
the use of this part will increase the performance of an engine obviously
do not know what they are talking about, or they are in the business of selling
new main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube)s, which can be very difficult to remove.)
The carburetor must be
FYI
- The bottom main fuel adjuster was originally introduced on the Briggs &
Stratton 7hp-12hp vertical shaft flathead engine carburetors, which was designed
and made by the
High Speed Air/Fuel Mixture
Needle Adjustment Screws. Fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20 and #22
carburetors that's used on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161
and K181. Lower hole enlarged so engine will start quicker (when throttle
is in idle position), idle better, and idle down upon deceleration without
stalling. The two parts listed below Ê
are identical in every way except 200410-S is listed for Carter carburetors
having the following numbers stamped on top of carburetor body: A-230798,
A-231966, B-231231, B-231450, B-231469, C-231738, E-231480, E-231488, E-231489,
F-230350, F-230502, G-220517, G-230500, 231287, 24588, 41 053 06, 41 053
13, 41 053 14. And 200410-S is listed for Carter carburetors having the following
numbers stamped on top of carburetor body: A-231741, A-234641, C-231738,
B-231739, 41 053 01, 41 053 04, 41 053 05, 41 053 06, 41 053 18, 41 053 20.
IMPORTANT - Please check numbers on carburetor before ordering and go here
to identify the correct part for any particular carburetor:
High Speed Air/Fuel Mixture
Needle Adjustment Screw. Fits certain Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors
used on Kohler K-series and early Magnum flathead engine models K241, K301,
K330/K331, K321, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18,
M20, MV20 and certain K532 and K582 engines. 3-3/8" overall length. Has four
tiny holes midway on the stem (this is important so the engine will idle
correctly) and two holes on lower stem. Interchangeable with discontinued
OEM Kohler high speed adjuster part # 52 103 01-S, which has four tiny holes
midway on the stem and one hole on lower stem. Lower hole enlarged so engine
will start quicker (when throttle is in idle position), idle better, and
idle down upon deceleration without stalling. There's no need to do this
on adjusters with two lower holes. Designed specifically for Kohler carburetors
with following numbers stamped on mounting flange: 47 053 07, 47 053 08,
47 053 12, 47 053 13, 47 053 14, 47 053 24, 47 053 29, 47 053 35, 47 053
40, 47 053 62, 47 053 80, 48 053 06 (K582), 52 053 01, 52 053 02, 52 053
09, 52 053 10, 52 053 11, 52 053 16, 52 053 18 and 52 053 28. IMPORTANT -
Please check numbers on carburetor before ordering and go here to identify
the correct part for any particular carburetor:
Carburetor Mounting Screws/Bolts
w/Slotted Head and Flat Washers. Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12,
K330/K331, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 with Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30,
or Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetor. NOTE: Use small slotted screwdriver
to start screws in threaded holes. Size: 5/16-18 UNC x 1" thread length.
Carburetor Mounting Stud Kits
with Serrated Flange Nuts. Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12,
K330/K331, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 with Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30,
or Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetor. NOTE: Apply
3-48 UNC screws and split lock
washers (liquid threadlocker not required) to replace throttle or choke plate
retaining screws in Carter and Kohler #26, #28 and #30 carburetors originally
installed on Kohler K-series engines. Also fits various other small engine
carburetors. No need to use liquid threadlocker. Specifications: .095" outside
thread diameter; grade 18-8 stainless steel; tensile strength: 120,000 PSI.
3-48 UNC size. Use to repair
damaged OEM threads in Carter or Kohler throttle and choke shafts.
$8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
48" inner stranded wire
cable x 43" metal conduit housing. $5.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
High quality aftermarket 1/4"
diameter anodized steel throttle shaft with 11/16" throttle plate screw hole
spacing, 3/16" hole in lever for throttle linkage and small hole in lever
for throttle stabilizer spring. Fits OEM Carter and Kohler #26, #28 and #30,
and Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors. When replacing a worn throttle
shaft in a Walbro #52 (1.07") carburetor with this throttle shaft, must use
the 1.07" aftermarket throttle plate listed below. Or when replacing a worn
throttle shaft in a Walbro #60 or #64 (1.2") carburetor with this throttle
shaft, oblong the holes in the OEM Walbro throttle plate to match the screw
holes in this shaft. Includes screws and lock washers. Includes screws and
lock washers. Replaces discontinued OEM Kohler part # 47 144 35-S.
$15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Throttle Shaft Conversion Kits
to Convert Carter Model N #26, #28 or #30 Carburetor with a Broken or Cracked
Old-Style Clamp-On Cast Aluminum Throttle Lever Adapter and Short Throttle
Shaft to the New-Style One-Piece Kohler-Type Throttle Shaft with Integrated
Lever and Idle Speed Screw/Compression Spring in the Carburetor Body.
1.17" High Quality Aftermarket
Anodized Steel Throttle Plate. Fits [early] Carter #28 and Chinese-made #30
aftermarket carburetors with 1.17" throttle bore, but will also work in the
[later] Carter and Kohler #30 carburetors with 1.2" throttle bore used on
Kohler K-series engine models K321, K341 and K582. Designed to be used with
OEM Carter, Kohler or aftermarket throttle shafts listed above
È with 11/16" screw hole spacing. No
Carter or Kohler part number available.
1.2" OEM Brass Throttle Plates.
Designed to fit Walbro HDA, WHG, LMH #60 and #64 carburetors with 1.2" throttle
bore. The Walbro WHG #60 and #64 carburetors are originally used on the Kohler
Magnum engine models M14 and M16. When used in a Carter or Kohler #30 carburetor,
elongate the holes to match the screw holes in the OEM throttle shaft, or
use 47 144 36-S throttle shaft listed above
È with 3/4" screw hole spacing.
1/8" Diameter Choke Shaft Friction
(Detent) Ball. Fits Carter or Kohler #13, #16, #18, #20, #22, #26, #28, #30
and Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetors.
5/32" Diameter Choke Shaft Friction
(Detent) Ball. Fits Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors.
1/8" Diameter x 5/16" Length
Choke Shaft Friction (Detent) Compression Spring. Fits Walbro WHL #36, #44
carburetors.
1/8" Diameter x 1/2" Length
Choke Shaft Friction (Detent) Compression Spring. Fits Carter and Kohler
#26, #28 and #30 carburetors.
5/32" Diameter x 1/2" Length
Choke Shaft Friction (Detent) Compression Spring. Fits Walbro WHG #52, #60,
#64 carburetors.
1-3/4" high quality aftermarket ordinary metal gas cap w/vent
hole and paper-like sealing gasket material. $6.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
Alcohol-resistant neoprene rubber
O-ring for 1-3/4" gas caps. Provides a better seal which helps prevent dangerous
leaks, which could cause a fire. Also helps seal against rim of a slightly
damaged filler neck of gas tank to lessen chance of loss of gas when tank
is full. Pry out and install under paper-like gasket material in gas cap
for better sealing. Small cross-sectional diameter, snug-fitting in gas
cap. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Vented Gas Caps/Fuel Level
Gauge w/Projected Grips. Replace deteriorated, damaged or missing gas cap
for safety. Fits IH-built Cub Cadet AQS (Quiet Line) garden tractor models
800, 1000, 1200, 1250, 1450 and 1650 with serial number 560210 and higher.
Fits plastic gas tank with a 2" inlet and 5" depth.
Vented Gas Caps/Fuel Level Gauge
w/Projected Grips. Replace deteriorated, damaged or missing gas cap for safety.
Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682,
782, 784, 982, 984, 986, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1282, 1604, 1606, 1710, 1711,
1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1872, 1912, 1914 and 2072. Fits plastic gas
tank with a 2" inlet. 10-5/8" overall length.
Air Cleaner/Filter Base Mounting
Screws w/split lock washers. Use to fasten air cleaner base to Carter Model
N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 and Walbro WHL #36 and #44 carburetors. Dimensions:
8-32 UNC x 3/8" thread length. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler
part # 25 086 99-S.
Air Cleaner/Filter Base Mounting
Screws w/split lock washers. Use to fasten air cleaner base to Carter or
Kohler #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors. Dimensions:
10-32 UNF x 3/8" thread length.
Air Cleaner/Filter Base Mounting
Screw w/split lock washer. 10-32 UNF x 3/4" thread length Phillips head screw
with split lock washer. Use when air cleaner/filter base mounting holes located
at the 12:00, 8:00 and 4:00 position strip out in Kohler AQS (Quiet Line)
#26 and #30 carburetors. Stripped-out screw holes can be drilled deeper with
a 11/64" drill bit, then deeper threads can be cut with a 10-32 UNF hand
tap (listed below) for these longer screws. No need to install Heli-Coil
inserts or replace carburetor. Screw made of hardened zinc-plated steel.
An innovative concept by Brian Miller. .25¢ each, plus
shipping & handling.
11/64" High Speed Steel Drill
Bit for drilling deeper [stripped-out] air cleaner base mounting screw holes
in Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) #26 and #30 carburetors so longer screws (above)
can be used. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
8-32 UNC size. For cutting new
threads for the idle speed screw/spring in the old-style Carter #26, #28
or #30 carburetor body with the cast aluminum clamp-on throttle lever adapter
to the new-style one-piece throttle shaft with the integrated lever. Can
also be used for rethreading screw holes in the choke flange of Carter Model
N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 or Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetors for mounting
of air cleaner/filter base. $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
FYI - About the air cleaner assembly
on the Kohler K90/K91 engine with the Carter Model N #13 or #16 carburetor
shown above, being the OEM Kohler air cleaner assembly and individual components
are no longer available, and used OEM Kohler air cleaner assemblies or components
in good condition are extremely hard to find nowadays and/or is cost prohibitive,
the lower priced and readily available OEM Tecumseh air cleaner assembly
shown on the Kohler K91 engine above will fit this engine with one modification
that needs to be made. The center of the [plastic] mounting adapter will
need to be bored-out/enlarged to match the diameter of the inlet opening
of the carburetor to allow the engine to draw plenty of air. This air cleaner
assembly includes a pleated paper air filter element (part # 35066), plastic
twist-on cover (part # 35065), plastic mounting adapter (part # 35797), and
mounting gasket (part # 27272A). Two 8-32 UNC screws with two small spacers
and two flat washers w/lock washers and gasket are also needed to securely
fasten the adapter to the carburetor. And the OEM Tecumseh air cleaner assembly
shown to the right (part # 730164), which includes a pleated paper air filter
element, metal cover, and metal mounting plate, will also fit this engine
with no modifications whatsoever. An ingenious and innovative idea by
Brian Miller because nobody else mentions about doing this online. The
OEM Kohler air cleaner assemblies for Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161
and K181 will also fit the K90/K91 engine carburetor.