![10-18hp Kohler (or Carter [model N]) Carburetor](images/carb.jpg)
Information
about the Kohler Carburetor, Various Fuels and Fuel Systems
Please check out: HOT ROD
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Identification of Carter and Kohler Carburetors -
The carburetors that's used on Kohler engine models K90 (3.6hp), K91 (4hp), K141 (6¼hp), K160 (6.6hp), K161 (7hp) and K181/M8 (8hp) are as follows:
The Carter #16
carburetor originally came on Kohler engine models K90 (3.6hp), K91 (4hp),
K141 (6¼hp), K160 (6.6hp) and K181 (8hp), but because of its small venturi,
it's best suited for the K90/K91 engine. When used on a bigger engine, due
to the velocity of air that's required, the engine will not produce maximum
power at higher rpms. This carburetor came on various other sizes, makes
and models of engines, too. It was a popular carburetor for its time. The
diameter of the venturi measures .542", and the throttle bore measures .810".
Being this carburetor is no longer made, its replacement is the Walbro WHL
#36. (Kohler part # 46 853 01-S.)
FYI - When Edelbrock bought out the (automotive part of) Carter Carburetor Corporation sometime before 1984, Carter sold their line of small engine carburetors to Kohler Engines in 1985. Kohler changed the throttle shaft/lever on the Carter Model N #16, #18, #20 and #22 carburetors, and also maintained the Carter name on them. And on the #26 and #30 single cylinder engine Carter carburetors, Kohler redesigned the throttle shaft/lever and made slots in the mounting holes for easier installation and removal. Everything else is the same on the Carter and Kohler carburetors, with the exception of the throttle shaft/lever. Six types of (Carter/Kohler) carburetors was made for the K-series single cylinder 10hp through 18hp engines, the KT-series opposed twin cylinder engines and the K482, K532 and K582 engines. NOTE: Please don't discard your Carter/Kohler carburetor core. These are no longer made and are considered valuable nowadays. If not rebuildable, maybe the parts on or in it can be used on a good core. (The OEM (US) manufacturers are phasing out many parts for flathead engines due to EPA smog emissions. But some parts may still be available in aftermarket.)
The size number (diameter of
throttle bore) for the Carter/Kohler carburetors is embossed inside the upper
part of the choke end, just above the venturi. But not all Kohler carburetors
have a number embossed. In this case, the throttle bore (throttle plate area)
will need to be measured to determine the size of the carburetor. The size
number refers to the amount of air that can flow through the carburetor.
A #26 carburetor has a 26 millimeter diameter throttle bore, which converts
closely to 1.024 inches (26 ÷ 25.4 = 1.024"), but actually measures
1.07". A #28 carburetor has a 28 millimeter diameter throttle bore, which
converts to 1.102 inches (28 ÷ 25.4 = 1.102"), but actually measures
1.17". And a #30 carburetor has a 30 millimeter diameter throttle bore, which
converts to 1.181 inches (30 ÷ 25.4 = 1.181"), but actually measures
1.200". When measuring the throttle bore to determine the size, it's best
to use a
dial or digital caliper to be precise.
Carburetors that's used on Kohler engines are as follows:
By the way - the part number for any particular Kohler-made carburetor is stamped on the right side of the mounting flange. Don't refer to the numbers just below the fuel inlet port. They represent nothing that I know of. Click here to identify a Kohler or Walbro carburetor and matching parts: Kohler Carburetor Reference Manual TP-2377-E.pdf. (Requires Adobe Acrobat Reader and use Google Chrome web browser for a faster download of web sites with large files.) No numbers are available from any source for the Carter #26, #28 or #30 carburetors.
Airflow -
FYI - The throttle bore in the Carter/Kohler #26 carburetors can be bored to 1.2", the main jet/nozzle will still bottom out against the throttle bore, and of course, a 1.2" throttle shaft and plate would need to be used. But the boring process will break through the idle fuel mixing well (the idle progression holes and the welch plug hole). Modifications to this area would need to be made by threading in an 1/8" Allen pipe plug where the welch plug is (was), and drilling and installing a small brass or copper tube from the idle fuel mixture screw down into the float bowl, next to the float, with enough clearance so it won't interfere with the movement of the float. A 1/4-28 NF x 3/4" long bolt will also need to be installed where the high speed needle adjuster is (was) to block off a vacuum leak to will occur with the modifications of the idle fuel mixing well. Actually, it would be MUCH easier and less cost effective to just convert either a Carter/Kohler #28 or #30 carburetor for high performance use and not having to do anything to modify the idle fuel passageway.
And boring of the venturi in the carburetor alone will not help to increase engine performance. To increase the overall airflow in and out of the combustion chamber for improved engine performance, and if sanctioning club's rules allow this, the intake (and exhaust) port runners must be enlarged, too. This is called "porting an engine." The [stock size] valves will also need to be reworked for more airflow. Or larger valves and a bigger cam will need to be installed.
For pulling competition, carburetor design and size depends on port sizes, valve sizes, if the intake valve and seat have 30°/31° angles and undercut heads, and the cam profile (lift and duration) is important. If an engine has stock ports, valves and cam, a plain stock carburetor can be used. But if the ports and valves have been reworked for more airflow, and a bigger cam is going to be used, then a bored-out carburetor with a 1" (.995" NQS legal) venturi can be used for best performance.
The 26mm carburetor obviously has a smaller throttle bore. Therefore, is restricted as to how much air can flow through it, even with the venturi removed. It'll work excellent on a hot 10hp or mild 12hp engine, but the larger 28mm and 30mm carburetors flows more air, 7.7% more for the 28mm, and 15.5% more for the 30mm. Which are ideal for a hot 12hp and larger engines with porting, polishing, bigger valves and a big cam. If you feel that using a single 30mm carburetor isn't enough for your particular engine, then either a "Super Carb," Dellorto, Mikuni, S&S Super D or a twin Kohler carburetor setup (on a "Y" intake) should be used.
If you have a 14hp Kohler engine, and you can't find a #28 or #30 carburetor, then a Carter or Kohler #26 carburetor will work just fine for general yard use. Personally, I ran a stock #26 on the 14hp engine that's on my 6,000 lb. self-propelled pulling sled for 10 years and the engine didn't lack any power whatsoever.
Identification and Information About Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 Carburetors -
The Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64
carburetors originally come on all Magnum engines. These carburetors are
direct replacements for the Kohler carburetors. The Walbro #52 carburetor
has a throttle bore diameter of 1.07" and is designed for use on models K241/M10
(10hp), K301/M12 (12hp), KT17, KT17II, KT19, KT19II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18,
M20 and MV20 engines. And the Walbro #60 or #64 carburetor have a throttle
bore diameter of 1.2" and is designed for the K321/M14 (14hp), K341/M16 (16hp)
engines, and being the Kohler #30 carburetor that was originally designed
for the K361, 18hp OHV engine is longer available, the only option is to
use the Walbro #60 or #64 carburetor.
The older Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors are reliable and they seem to last a long time before requiring service. Most older Walbros are worth rebuilding, because the float valve seats are made of hardened solid bronze, which is actually harder than cast iron. They were manufactured back in the day when most business owners took pride in their products and offered their customers a quality product.
But the newer Walbro carburetors, especially the ones that come on recently-built aluminum block small air-cooled engines, are notorious for leaking gas after several years of use. Although overhaul/rebuild kits are available, it really does no good to rebuild them because the float valve seat is made of soft brass, which erodes with use due to microscopic pieces of dirt, grit and debris that pass through the fuel filter, and in most Walbro carburetors, the seat is not replaceable.
The fuel filter can only filter out so small of particles of dirt and debris. Any heavy particles that can pass through the filter will build up in the bottom of the float bowl and can eventually clog the main jet. Light and suspended particles gets sucked up through the main jet and is burned in the combustion chamber.
To put it in plain English: If your Walbro carburetor doesn't leak gas out the choke end, but needs an overhaul, then it may be worthwhile to install a new kit. But if it does leak gas, then I doubt that a new float valve will fix the problem. Your only options are: install a fuel shut-off valve and turn off the fuel every time the engine is not in use, or install a rebuilt Carter/Kohler K-series carburetor.
About 90% of small engine carburetors are made by Walbro nowadays, and I don't think that one is better than the other. The trick to getting the soft brass seat (and needle/float valve) to last longer is to use a fuel filter with a very fine mesh screen or fine mesh pleated paper element. The finer, the better. Because it's the microscopic dirt and grit that passes through the filter that causes the seat (and needle/float valve) to erode and wear. And every pressed-in brass seat that I've replaced ALWAYS leaked gas. There's just no way to get them to seal with the carburetor body, not even with high strength liquid thread locker.
If a Walbro carburetor drips fuel, and a new carburetor is out of the question, the only options is to either install an under-the-[gas] tank or in-line fuel shut off valve (lots of people do this). Or a new carburetor can be purchased, and hope the leaking fuel situation doesn't happen again in a few years. (Walbro is like Walmart or Sam's Club, they want 'em keep coming back. This undoubtedly is how many world-wide, major businesses nowadays keep selling new high-dollar replacement Chinese-made carburetors and other engine parts to unknowing or ignorant customers.)
The only problem using a Walbro on a pulling tractor or for high performance application is they can't be bored out or modified in any way because the throttle bore wall (where the venturi is located) is too thin. Therefore, they're limited to how much air can flow through them. The US government EPA laws required that Kohler and all other small engine manufacturers redesign their carburetors so the engine will produce less air pollution. So they started using a redesigned emissions-controlled, EPA-approved Walbro carburetor with a fixed/non-adjustable high speed main jet. This is to prevent people from setting the air/fuel ratio too rich and create more air pollution. The older-designed Walbros that have an adjustable high speed main jet, which is located on the lower right side of the carburetor, are still available new. Main jets of various sizes are available for most carburetors with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet so the engine will run correctly depending on the altitude (atmospheric pressure) where the engine will be used.
Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors work great for ordinary lawn and garden equipment, general yard work and they're perfect for basic stock low rpm/low performance pulling tractors with an engine that's governed to a maximum of 3,200 rpm with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet, or at 3,600 rpm with an adjustable main jet. A carburetor with a fixed/non-adjustable high speed main jet is limited to just 3,200 rpm and should never be operated faster for an extended length of time. Although the venturi cannot be bored out on a Walbro, they work equally as well as the older Carter/Kohler carburetors when used on a stock engine. The main jet in the newer Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors are calibrated at the factory to provide the engine with just the right amount of fuel at 3,200 rpm. Therefore, the fixed/non-adjustable jet inside the carburetor cannot be replaced with an adjustable one. Go here to purchase a nice, in-dash small engine tachometer: Veethree 0-4000 rpm Back-lit Panel Mount Tachometer or here: tachometer proximity sensor | eBay.
Carter/Kohler or Walbro Fully Adjustable High Speed Jet Carburetors VS. Walbro fixed/Non-Adjustable High Speed Jet Carburetor RPM to Horsepower Specs -
Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors with a fixed/non-adjustable main
jet are designed with emission controls in mind to run leaner to create less
air pollution. However, the main problem with most Walbros having a
fixed/non-adjustable main jet is during cooler weather operation. During
cool weather, and running at 3,200 rpm, the engine will sometimes run too
lean on fuel and operate erratically. To fix this, first of all, make sure
the hole in the main jet is partially clogged. If it is, use a
carburetor jet cleaner wire set or an
oxy-acetylene welding torch tip cleaner to clear any debris
that may be lodged in the hole. Then use [150± psi] compressed air to
clear out any debris. If the engine still runs too lean on fuel, simply enlarge
the hole in the main jet a few thousandths of an inch. Then use [150±
psi] compressed air to clear out any metal particles. Be careful not to
enlarge the hole in the main jet too much, or the engine will run rich on
fuel! The hole diameter in the OEM factory main jet for 100% gasoline
is 3/64" (.047"). If necessary, enlarge the main jet and fuel inlet holes
with a #55 (.052") drill bit. That's a .0052" difference. After doing this,
for cool weather, the engine should run better, last longer and produce more
power. But don't enlarge the hole in the main jet too much! A too big of
a hole will cause an engine to run too rich on fuel, making it blow black
smoke out the exhaust and possibly fouling the spark plug. If the hole is
made too large, the carburetor will be useless for gasoline, and E85 fuel
must be used. But if an engine is going to be used only during warm weather
and if it runs okay [during warm weather], don't enlarge the hole in the
main jet.
On the newer carburetors with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet, the hole in the main jet may need to be enlarged .002"-.003" to give the engine a little more fuel so it'll run better at higher rpm. Otherwise, the engine could "burn up" or wear out prematurely due to the lean air/fuel mixture. I have an assortment of tiny drill bits that I use on our customer's lawn & garden equipment carburetors.
A new
style Walbro carburetor with a fixed/non-adjustable high speed main jet should
never be used on a non-governed (wide-open throttle) engine or on an engine
that's going to turn at 3,200 rpm! The reason for this is because if an engine
operates faster with a carburetor having a fixed/non-adjustable high speed
main jet, it'll run too lean on fuel at high rpm (it'll draw much more air
than fuel), which will cause the combustion chamber to overheat and the excessive
heat will likely damage the piston and rings and possibly warp the cylinder
head and/or exhaust valve or even crack the cast iron engine
block. A lean fuel mixture can also melt
away part of the aluminum in the combustion chamber of an aluminum block
engine.
The size number on the Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors is embossed inside the carburetor and can be seen by looking inside the upper part of the choke end, just above the venturi. A "52" carburetor has a 26 millimeter diameter throttle bore, which converts closely to 1.024 inches (26 ÷ 25.4 = 1.024"), but actually measures 1.07".
And being the venturi in the
old-style Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors used on Kohler engine models
K90 (3.6hp), K91 (4hp), K141 (6¼hp), K160 (6.6hp), K161 (7hp) and K181
(8hp) can't be bored out either, the only option for pulling competitively
with these is to fabricate an adapter to fasten to the intake port on the
engine block and use a #52 Walbro or #26 Carter/Kohler carburetor.
The best way to determine which engine any particular carburetor is made for is to measure the diameter of the throttle bore. Because a set of numbers that's stamped on the carburetor body mean nothing, not even to Kohler Engine dealers. If a carburetor measures .822" (13/16"), then it's made for the 6¼hp, 7hp or 8hp engines. If it measures 1.07", then it's for the 10hp or 12hp engines. And if it measures 1.17" or 1.2", it's for a 14hp, 16hp (flathead) or 18hp OHV engine.
How to Set the Governor Speed Control - Top of page
The initial setting for proper operation of the governor for stable engine speed is first loosen the clamp nut on the governor lever and rotate the shaft counterclockwise with the throttle in the full throttle position. Then tighten the nut. After you start the engine, run it a full (governed) speed and select the hole in the governor that allows the engine to run at 3,600 rpm.
A nylon governor gear works best if an engine will never run above 4,000 rpm. But if you're going to pull competitively with an engine and disconnect the governor to run the engine at wide open throttle, then it's best to install a cast iron governor gear. Because nylon could explode due to the increased rpm.
And if you've heard that by drilling a hole through the flyweights on the governor gear to lighten them will improve engine performance, well, first of all, the flyweights are made of extremely hard material for obvious reasons. I tried, and there is no way to drill a hole through them. It's even hard to grind metal off of them. Besides, lightening the flyweights will not help in engine performance whatsoever. All it'll do is allow the engine to rev up more, that's all.
If you want to do away with the governor, you must remove it entirely from inside the engine block. Otherwise, at high rpm, the flyweights that's attached to the governor gear (which is called the "governor spool") could cause the nylon spool to explode. Or, you could disconnect the governor link from the carburetor and wire the arm to the exhaust pipe. This will prevent the governor spool from being damaged at high rpm. But then you must fabricate a throttle linkage of some kind to activate the throttle on the carburetor. For safety reasons, install a steel flywheel and crankcase side shields on an engine with no operating governor!
If an engine revs with no closing of the throttle shaft, or surges, then the governor is either out of adjustment or a governor part is severely worn or broken. To set the governor speed control, first, install the governor parts, install the carburetor on the engine, connect all the throttle linkages, etc. in their respective places, then...
To set the governor speed control
on Kohler single cylinder engine models K141 (6¼hp), K160 (6.6hp), K161
(7hp), K181/M8 (8hp), K241/M10 (10hp), K301/M12 (12hp), K321/M14 (14hp),
K341/M16 (16hp) or K361 (18hp OHV), block the throttle lever in the wide
open position, and rotate the governor cross shaft counterclockwise
with pliers or Vise Grips as far as it will
go, then tighten the clamp bolt/nut.
with pliers or Vise Grips
as far as it will go, then tighten the clamp bolt/nut.
Do not mistakenly rotate
the governor cross shaft in the wrong direction until it stops, tighten the
clamp and then run the engine! Doing this could cause the lever (see below
Ê) to jam into the governor flyweights,
breaking it off and/or possibly destroying the governor gear
assembly.
If the above È adjustment was attempted and the governor cross shaft rotates without stopping, this means the flat lever on the shaft has broken off. It can usually be found at the bottom of the oil pan. A broken off lever will allow an engine to operate dangerously at wide open throttle at all times. Or, if the governor cross-shaft (the shaft that protrudes from the block) gets bent due to rough handling of the engine, and if it's not bent too bad, it can be straightened with a small hammer. (It's made of mild steel.) But if it's bent severely or if it's broken off, it must be replaced. If this happens, usually the bronze bushing will break also and it will need to be replaced, too.
To fix either of the above
È, another governor cross shaft must
be installed, or the broken-off lever can be welded or brazed back onto the
shaft. To perform the repair, the entire engine must be completely disassembled.
This means EVERYTHING inside the engine block (crankcase) will need to be
removed. And then the replacement or repaired shaft can (re)installed from
inside the crankcase. But before the original shaft is removed, the bronze
bushing on the outside must first be removed. The governor gear assembly
doesn't need to be removed. The shaft lifts out from inside the crankcase
and is installed in reverse order of removal. And it'll be a good idea to
place a small bead of weld or braze to secure the flat lever to the shaft
to prevent future breakage. (I think this is something that Kohler should
have done originally.) I realize that this is a lot of work just to replace
a small [important] part, but it must be done in this way. There is no other
way to replace it. Before installing, apply clean motor oil or automotive
grease on shaft for smooth governor action and less wear to shaft and/or
bushing.
And that's all that's to it! You can also go here for further details and pictures: http://cubfaq.com/govadjust.html. But if doing the above didn't fix the over-revving or surging problem, then perhaps the governor gear is damaged and/or the stub shaft is worn (wobbling around, which will cause throttle surging), the lever broke off the cross shaft (which will cause the engine to run at wide open throttle at all times), or the throttle plate retaining screws came out of the throttle shaft.
And it doesn't matter how long
or short the link between the governor lever to the throttle lever is because
the governor is set by the clamp on the cross-shaft. Actually, I don't know
why Kohler made the link adjustable. It serves no purpose to lengthen or
shorten it.
How to Set the Governored Top Speed RPMs -
It's best to use a small engine tachometer to determine the exact rpm to prevent over-revving of the engine, which could cause the connecting rod to break. (Double the reading on the tachometer on engines with camshaft-operated ignition points.) The top speed governor limit for virtually any stock small gas engine is 3,600 rpm for an engine with a carburetor having an adjustable high speed main jet, and 3,200 rpm for an engine with a carburetor having a fixed/non-adjustable high speed main jet. For a stock pulling engine, set it at 4,000 rpm, or whatever the sanctioning rules require. Go here to purchase a nice, in-dash small engine tachometer: Veethree 0-4000 rpm Back-lit Panel Mount Tachometer or here: tachometer proximity sensor | eBay.
All cast K-series iron block
single cylinder Kohler engines come with what is called a throttle stop.
It's a piece of angled steel that's fastened under the lever where the governor
spring and throttle cable is attached. If an engine doesn't have one, fabricate
it out of 1/8" x 1/2" x 2" flat steel. Drill a 1/4" hole 1/2" from one end,
and bend it in the middle 90 degrees, and install it under the lever. To
limit an engine's rpm of an engine, either adjust the throttle stop so the
lever bumps against it, set the governor spring ends in different holes on
the [long] governor lever, adjust the throttle cable housing or the linkage.
By the way - Kohler's 23 coil governor springs works better than their governor springs with more coils when used on a 4,000 rpm stock pulling tractor because these maintain the rpms at a more steady pace.
If a stock engine runs with a "hunting" sound, and the governor lever moves side to side while running at around 3,600 or 4,000 rpms, and if adjusting the carburetor or adjusting the rpms doesn't fix the problem, then perhaps the governor gear/flyweights assembly is worn on its stub shaft, or the shaft itself is worn. This will cause the governor gear to wobble around on its shaft, which will cause the governor to oscillate. And the engine will run erratic. To fix this problem, the governor gear and shaft must be replaced with new ones, or a cast iron governor gear. (Nylon governor gears are known to wear more often than cast iron ones.)
How to Remove and Replace the Governor Gear/Flyweights Assembly in a Single Cylinder Kohler Engine -
If the engine is going to be rebuilt and the block thoroughly cleaned, be
sure to remove and save the small, thin thrust washer that's on the governor
gear's stub shaft! This special washer is made of either bronze or hardened
steel for durability. It's required to prevent the governor gear from wearing
against the block when under pressure. A lot of people are not aware of this
washer and it usually falls out and gets lost while cleaning inside the
block.
How to Replace a Worn Governor
Pin (Stub Shaft) in a 6¼hp-16hp Kohler Engine -
To install the new stub shaft,
either fabricate a driver from a 5/8" diameter solid steel rod having a 3/8"
diameter x 3/8" deep drilled hole in one end, or use a quality-made 3/8"
deep-well impact socket with a short extension and medium size hammer to
drive the new stub shaft in the hole. Allow the stub shaft to extend or protrude
3/8" from the block.
Nylon VS Cast Iron Governor Gear Assemblies -
The most popular Kohler governor gear assembly nowadays for competition stock
garden tractor pulling are the ones that's made of cast iron. These are no
longer made or available from Kohler or any other source. They were used
in the 4hp, 6¼, 7hp, early 8hp, early 10hp and K301/M12 (12hp) K-series
Kohler engines 'til the late 1960s. It's impossible to tell if an engine
has a metal governor gear by looking at it from the outside. The only way
of knowing for sure is remove the oil pan and look at it from inside.
There's really nothing special about the cast iron governor gear, except when the governor linkage is disconnected, they can withstand very high rpms and won't explode (break apart) like the nylon governor gears sometimes do. The reason the cast iron ones are so popular nowadays among stock pullers is because some pullers like to compete in two separate classes, one class that has an engine rpm limit of around 4,000± and another class with a higher rpm limit, or open rpm. Consider this: The governor gear spins 1.25 times faster than the crankshaft. This means at 4,000 rpm, the governor gear spins at 5,000 rpm. At 6,500 rpms, it spins at 8,125 rpms! And when using a nylon governor gear, don't worry, as long as the governor linkage is adjusted correctly, it should hold up just fine in an engine that will never operate above 4,000 rpm. The cast iron governor gear will fit all Kohler K-series and Magnum 4hp-16hp flatheads, 18hp K361 OHV single cylinder cast iron block and the KT-series and Magnum flathead twin cylinder engines. |
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Advertisement:
If you need any of the parts listed below
Ê, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA |
 Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (home/shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell/text). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays),
9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When
speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) Please call before
coming on a weekend so I'll be here waiting for our
arrival. Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
 E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. Send
a message with Yahoo Messenger:
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 Nylon
Governor Gears. Good for up to 4,000 rpm. OEM Kohler part # A-235743-S.
|
Cast Iron Governor
Gear. Good for above 4,000 rpm up to wide open throttle. Will not explode
or flex at high rpms like the nylon governor gears sometimes do. OEM Kohler
part # A-237031. (Discontinued from Kohler.)
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  Governor Gear Stub Shafts for Kohler engine models K141
(6¼hp), K160 (6.6hp), K161 (7hp), K181/M8 (8hp). Dimensions: 3/8" diameter
x .625" long. Each is press-fit into block. Kohler part # 230125-S.
Governor Gear Stub Shafts for Kohler engine models K241/M10 (10hp), K301/M12 (12hp), K321/M14 (14hp), K341/M16 (16hp), K361 (18hp OHV) and all KT-series & Magnum twin cylinder flathead engines. Dimensions: 3/8" diameter x .815" long. Each is press-fit into block. Kohler part # 235125-S.
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New hardened steel
thrust washer for nylon or cast iron governor gears. Kohler # 237022-S.
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Governor Cross
Shafts for Kohler engine models K141 (6¼hp), K160 (6.6hp), K161 (7hp)
and K181/M8 (8hp). New shaft includes thrust washer. The lever on these rarely
break. NOTE: Before installing, apply clean motor oil or automotive grease
on shaft for smooth governor action and less wear to shaft and/or bushing.
OEM Kohler part # 230540-S.
Governor Cross Shafts for Kohler
engine models K241/M10 (10hp), K301/M12 (12hp), K321/M14 (14hp), K341/M16
(16hp) flatheads, K361 (18hp OHV). New shaft includes steel thrust spacer.
NOTE: Before installing, apply clean motor oil or automotive grease on
shaft for smooth governor action and less wear to shaft and/or bushing.
OEM Kohler part # A-235256-S.
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 New Bronze Governor
Shaft Bushings with or without Neoprene Rubber Oil Seal installed in machined
counterbore to keep dust and dirt out (which wears the bushing) and prevent
film of oily mess on side of engine. (Vacuum within crankcase due to upward
stroke of piston draws in dust and dirt, which attach to the oil in bushing,
and pressure from the downward stroke of piston blows out a fine mist of
oil, in overtime, builds up on outside of engine.) Seal fits snug in bushing
and on shaft, and has no effect with operation of governor whatsoever. For
Kohler engine models listed below Ê with
bushing # 230476-S, 41 158 02-S or 235476-S. NOTE: When ordering, please
specify part number of bushing or engine model and specification numbers.
And before installing, lubricate shaft with clean motor oil or automotive
grease for smooth governor action and less wear to shaft, seal and/or
bushing. An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody
else advertise this product or offer this service.
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 23 Coils (Short)
Extension Governor Spring. Designed for Kohler engine models M10 (10hp),
K301/M12 (12hp), M14 (14hp) and K341 (16hp) used with a generator and/or
welder. Overall length is 2-1/2" (outside hook to outside hook). Maintains
engine rpms at a more steady pace and recovers engine rpms quicker when under
a load. Also works great for a competition stock pulling tractor. Discontinued
from Kohler. OEM Kohler part # 45 091 01-S.
|
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The Wrong Type of Choke Lever!
Whenever I get a carburetor with the choke lever in the wrong position, if
it has a steel choke shaft, I just grind the lever off at the flare and weld
or braze it back on the shaft in the right position. But if it has a brass
shaft, I use a steel choke shaft out of a junk carburetor. Or if I don't
have a used one in stock, I machine a steel choke shaft from a 1/4" mild
steel rod. Like the old saying goes: "There's more than one way to skin a
cat." 
The Choke Shaft Detent Ball and Spring -
There's a tiny (1/8" or 5/32") steel ball and
spring located in the air filter housing screw hole at the 9:00 position
when facing the choke end with the carburetor right-side up. This ball and
spring is used to retain the choke plate in the open position when it's
hand-operated. But if the choke is remotely-operated by a cable, the ball
and spring isn't needed. Before the choke shaft is removed [with your right
hand], hold your left hand thumb over the screw hole and left hand index
finger over the outside choke shaft hole to prevent the ball (and possibly
spring) from flying out and getting lost.
Installing the choke shaft over the friction (detent) ball can be tricky. This is how it's done:
Place the carburetor on a sturdy work bench or table with the
choke end facing upward and the float area facing toward you, or gently clamp
it in a bench vise.
Advertisement:
| If you need any of the parts listed below
Ê, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (home/shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell/text). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays),
9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When
speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) Please call before
coming on a weekend so I'll be here waiting for our
arrival.Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. Send
a message with Yahoo Messenger:
|
|
 Coming
Soon! A-1 Miller's own CNC-machined mild steel throttle and choke shafts
for all Carter, Kohler and Walbro carburetors mentioned in my web sites.
(Will come without lever; reuse old lever - align and weld or braze to new
shaft.) Projected price, any shaft: $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
As soon as I have these parts available, they'll be posted here.
I will also have the ability to CNC-machine throttle and choke shafts for other makes and models of carburetors, too. For dimensional purposes, I will need the carburetor, old throttle or choke shaft and lever. |
|
 Choke shaft
w/cable-controlled lever for Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 and Walbro WHL #36,
#44 carburetors used on Kohler engine models K90 (3.6hp), K91, K141, K160/K161,
K181 and M8. Steel lever with hardened bronze shaft. Overall shaft length:
2-1/2". (Made by Walbro now, but was originally designed and made by the
Carter
Carburetor Corporation.) The 1-7/8" long choke shaft, which was made
by Carter, is no longer available. L) Comes
with screws and split lock washers. NOTE: Apply clean motor oil or automotive
grease on shaft before installing for smooth choke operation and less wear
to shaft and/or carburetor body. OEM Kohler part # 41 090 22-S.
|
|
 Choke shaft
w/hand-operated or cable-controlled angled lever for Carter #16, #18, #20,
#22 and Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetors used on Kohler engine models K90
(3.6hp), K91, K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8. Steel lever with hardened bronze
shaft. Overall shaft length: 2-1/16". (Made by Walbro now, but was originally
designed and made by the
Carter
Carburetor Corporation.) The 1-7/8" long choke shaft, which was made
by Carter, is no longer available. L) Comes
with screws and split lock washers. NOTE: Apply clean motor oil or automotive
grease on shaft before installing for smooth choke operation and less wear
to shaft and/or carburetor body. OEM Kohler part # 41 090 20-S.
|
|
 Choke shaft
w/cable-controlled, swivel screw clamp lever for Carter #16, #18, #20, #22
and Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetors used on Kohler engine models K90 (3.6hp),
K91, K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8. Steel lever with hardened bronze shaft.
Overall shaft length: 2-1/2". (The 1-7/8" long choke shaft, which was made
by Carter, is no longer available. L) Comes
with screws and split lock washers. NOTE: Apply clean motor oil or automotive
grease on shaft before installing for smooth choke operation and less wear
to shaft and/or carburetor body.
|
|
 Choke shaft w/short,
cable-controlled lever for various Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors used
on various Kohler Magnum engine models M10, M14 or M16. Steel lever with
1/4" diameter hardened bronze shaft. Overall shaft length: 2-5/8". Steel
lever with hardened bronze shaft. Comes with screws and split lock washers.
NOTE: The choke shaft for Carter/Kohler carburetors have been discontinued.
This one is Same as above, made by Walbro and designed for Walbro choke plates
in a Walbro carburetor. If used in a Carter/Kohler carburetor, the holes
in the Carter/Kohler choke plate may need to be elongated to align with the
threaded holes in this shaft. And apply clean motor oil or automotive grease
on shaft before installing for smooth choke operation and less wear to shaft
and/or carburetor body. OEM Kohler part # 47 090 37-S.
|
|
 Choke shaft w/short,
cable-controlled lever for Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHG #52,
#60, #64 carburetors with the
round air filter housing
assembly. Steel lever with hardened bronze shaft. Overall shaft length:
2-5/8". Comes with screws and split lock washers. NOTE: The choke shaft
for Carter/Kohler carburetors have been discontinued. This one is made by
Walbro and designed for Walbro choke plates in a Walbro carburetor. If used
in a Carter/Kohler carburetor, the holes in the Carter/Kohler choke plate
may need to be elongated to align with the threaded holes in this shaft.
And apply clean motor oil or automotive grease on shaft before installing
for smooth choke operation and less wear to shaft and/or carburetor body.
OEM Kohler part # 47 090 35-S. (Made by Walbro; available only from Kohler.)
|
|
Choke shaft w/short,
angled, hand-operated or cable-controlled lever for Carter/Kohler #26, #28,
#30 and Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors with the
round air filter housing
assembly. Steel lever with hardened bronze shaft. Overall shaft length:
2-5/8". Comes with screws and split lock washers. NOTE: The choke shaft
for Carter/Kohler carburetors have been discontinued. This one is made by
Walbro and designed for Walbro choke plates in a Walbro carburetor. If used
in a Carter/Kohler carburetor, the holes in the Carter/Kohler choke plate
may need to be elongated to align with the threaded holes in this shaft.
And apply clean motor oil or automotive grease on shaft before installing
for smooth choke operation and less wear to shaft and/or carburetor body.
|
|
Choke shaft w/long,
straight, hand-operated or cable-controlled lever for Kohler #26, #30 and
Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors with the "Quiet Line"
oblong air filter housing
assembly. Overall shaft length: 2-5/8". Steel lever with hardened bronze
shaft. Comes with screws and split lock washers. NOTE: The choke shaft
for Carter/Kohler carburetors have been discontinued. This one is made by
Walbro and designed for Walbro choke plates in a Walbro carburetor. If used
in a Carter/Kohler carburetor, the holes in the Carter/Kohler choke plate
may need to be elongated to align with the threaded holes in this shaft.
And apply clean motor oil or automotive grease on shaft before installing
for smooth choke operation and less wear to shaft and/or carburetor body.
|
|
 Choke Shaft
w/"Downward Swing" Lever (most common) for Kohler engine models KT17, KT19,
KT19II, M18, M20 with Kohler #26 or Walbro WHG #52 carburetor. Steel lever
with hardened bronze shaft. Overall shaft length: 2-5/8". For carburetors
with following numbers stamped on mounting flange: 52 053 01, 52 053 09,
52 053 20, 52 053 26, 52 053 28, 52 053 31, 52 053 36, 52 053 37, 52 053
38, 52 053 46, 52 053 50, 52 053 52, 52 053 56, 52 053 58, 52 053 63, 52
053 63, 52 053 66. Comes with screws and split lock washers. NOTE: The
choke shaft for the KT-series Kohler carburetors have been discontinued.
This one is made by Walbro and designed for Walbro choke plates in a Walbro
carburetor. If used in a Kohler carburetor, the holes in the Kohler choke
plate may need to be elongated to align with the threaded holes in this shaft.
And apply clean motor oil or automotive grease on shaft before installing
for smooth choke operation and less wear to shaft and/or carburetor body.
|
|
Choke Friction (Detent)
Ball for all Carter/Kohler #16, #18, #20, #22, #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHL
#36, #44 carburetors. 1/8" diameter. NOTE: The ball and spring is for
hand-operation of the choke only, such as for a generator/welder engine.
If choke is cable-operated, such as in a tractor, then the ball and spring
isn't needed.
Choke Friction (Detent) Ball for Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors. 5/32" diameter. NOTE: The ball and spring is for hand-operation of the choke only, such as for a generator/welder engine. If choke is cable-operated, such as in a tractor, then the ball and spring isn't needed.
|
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 Choke Friction
(Detent) Compression Spring for Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetors. Dimensions:
1/8" diameter x 5/16" long. NOTE: The ball and spring is for hand-operation
of the choke only, such as for a generator/welder engine. If choke is
cable-operated, such as in a tractor, then the ball and spring isn't needed.
Also, the 1/8" diameter x 1/2" long spring for the Carter and Kohler #16,
#18, #20, #22, #26, #28, #30 carburetors have been discontinued by Kohler.
This 1/8" diameter x 5/16" long spring can be used in these carburetors with
an 1/8" diameter x 3/16" long solid spacer placed under spring. (An 1/8"
diameter x 3/16" long Allen set screw makes an excellent spacer.)
|
How to adjust the fuel mixture screws on a Kohler (or virtually any early small engine) carburetor - Top of page
First of all, no new or rebuilt carburetor with adjustable jet(s) for small engines, automotive or whatever, come from the manufacturer or rebuilder with the idle speed, idle air/fuel mixture or the high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments set correctly. These are initially set just to get the engine running, and due to variations in the altitude (atmospheric pressure) where the engine will be used, the final adjustments will need to be made by the customer or an experienced small engine mechanic/technician so the engine will run smooth.
On the Carter/Kohler carburetors, the hole towards the bottom of the long high speed main needle adjuster is supposed to be open, so the engine can draw fuel for idling from the float bowl. The idle fuel passageways for a Carter/Kohler carburetor goes as follows: The fuel is first drawn through the high speed needle adjuster via the lower hole towards the bottom, then it travels upward, then over and down toward the idle mixture screw (which sets at an angle), and then the fuel is drawn into the throttle bore, next to the throttle plate. The information below Ê is mainly for Carter/Kohler carburetors. The fuel mixture screws are used as follows:
For improved idling for a stock
or pulling engine with a Carter/Kohler carburetor, remove the high speed
main fuel adjuster and if it has only one lower hole, carefully enlarge
the hole by hand with a .039" / #60 / 1mm diameter drill bit clamped in a
mini micro pin vise hand drill chuck. This is the perfect
size to enlarge lower the hole on high speed needle adjusters so the engine
will start quicker and idle better. Being the tube is made of soft brass,
there's no need to use an electric drill. Then use [150± psi] compressed
air to clear out any debris from inside the tube, and then suck through the
tube with your mouth to make sure it's clear and unclogged. If the tube has
two lower through-holes, there's no need to enlarge them because both of
them together makes the opening plenty big. Anyway, if the tube is still
clogged, use a small, bendable steel wire, such as a
bread wrapper twist tie (with the plastic coating stripped
off), to clean out the inside of the tube. Then use the [150± psi]
compressed air to thoroughly clear it out. Suck through the tube with your
mouth to make sure it's clear and unclogged. If performing either of the
above È doesn't clear out the tube,
then acquire a new high speed main fuel needle adjuster or one in good condition.
But make sure it's the correct adjuster for your particular carburetor!
For the K90/91, K141, K160/161
and K181 engines with the Carter carburetor, if the engine idles fine, but
fails to accelerate, install a short 6-32 NF screw in the emulsion hole leading
to the main nozzle just under the choke plate.
Many times when cleaning a Carter/Kohler carburetor, the welch plug that's on the side of the carburetor doesn't need to be removed. With the idle air/fuel mixture screw and the high speed needle adjuster removed, use [150± psi] compressed air in either screw hole and feel if air comes out either hole and if air comes out the tiny fuel hole that's next to the throttle plate. If air does come out of these holes, then the idle fuel passageway is clear and the welch plug don't need to be removed. A squirt of WD40 or aerosol carburetor cleaner can be used instead of [150± psi] compressed air.
Advertisement:
| If you need any of the items listed below
Ê, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (home/shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell/text). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays),
9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When
speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) Please call before
coming on a weekend so I'll be here waiting for our
arrival.Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. Send
a message with Yahoo Messenger:
|
 Quality high speed steel
spiral drill bit. Size: .039" / #60 / 1mm diameter x 1-3/8" long. Perfect
size to enlarge lower hole on high speed needle adjusters above
È for Carter/Kohler carburetors so engine
will start quicker and idle better. An innovative concept by Brian
Miller, because nobody else advertise the use of this part.
|
 Throttle and Choke Plate Retaining
Screws for Carter/Kohler and Walbro carburetors used on various Kohler and
other small engines. The stainless steel screws have a tensile strength of
60,000 psi.
|
 Quality High Speed Steel
Taps -
|
For easy removal and installation
of the hex-shaped float valve seat in Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 and Carter/Kohler
#26, #28, #30 carburetors, use a 1/4" drive, 3/8" deep well socket with half
machined down (in a metal lathe) to 1/2" so it will fit into the seat depression
in the carburetor body.
If an engine blows black smoke out the exhaust while running, then here are the main causes:
Black exhaust smoke is when an engine is getting too much gas and/or not enough air in the combustion chamber. The causes for this are either... (listed from most common to rare causes)
Also, sometimes flooding of the carburetor will deposit gas in the motor oil, but only in a vertical shaft engine. Because gas can't seep into the crankcase on horizontal shaft engines. The cause of the problem is the carburetor is flooding. The gas seeps past the piston ring gaps and into the crankcase. To fix this, clean the float valve (needle and seat) in the carburetor, or install a new carburetor overhaul kit with a new float valve needle and seat. Also, clean out the fuel hoses with [150± psi] compressed air and install a new fuel filter. And then the oil will need to be drained and fresh motor oil installed.
The Cause of Carburetor Flooding at Slow Idle with a Long Duration/High Performance Camshaft -
Sometimes when using a long duration/high performance camshaft, despite if the engine has a modified or stock carburetor, if the engine idles for a long period of time, it may run rich on fuel at slow idle speeds. What happens is with a long duration cam, intake vacuum is low and with a single cylinder engine, excess fuel builds up in the intake extension/port. Any engine that has a long duration camshaft have low vacuum at slow idle speeds. The longer the duration, the lower the vacuum. What causes excess fuel to build up in the intake is the long duration of the cam lobes holds the [intake] valve open longer, and at slow idle, the pressure of the piston blows some of the air/fuel back into the intake tube. The more duration a cam has, the worse this will be. As the engine is accelerated, black smoke or raw unburned fuel will blow out the exhaust until the fuel is cleared out of the intake tube. With the engine running well above idle, air becomes trapped within the combustion chamber and the piston don't have time to blow any air/fuel back into the intake. This happens with automotive gasoline, E85 or 100% methanol fuels, and there's nothing that can be done about it. There's probably nothing wrong with the carburetor, and nothing can be done to the idle circuit to prevent this. Just make a simple adjustment with the idle air/fuel mixture screw so the engine idles smoothly, and don't allow the engine to idle for a long period of time.
The Major Causes of Carburetor Flooding -
Personally, I don't put additives in any of my gas. I think it's a waste of money and effort. I just dump any left-over gas from my customer's small engine equipment in my car or truck, let it mix with the fresh gas that's already in the tank, then I use fresh gas in my customer's small engine equipment. If there's water in the gas, I separate the gas from the water in a bucket (water always goes to the bottom). And if there's dirt or debris in the gas, I strain/filter the gas through a clean shop towel placed in a funnel into a gas can.
What prevents most carburetor and fuel system from having problems when using gasoline is to run the engine out of fuel or draining the entire fuel system if it's not going to be used for more than 30 days at a time. If there's no fuel left in the system, then there should be no problems. The following causes are listed from most common to rare.
If fuel drips out of the carburetor...
If gas constantly pours out of the carburetor...
If the carburetor on an engine
has been setting for some time without an air filter housing, and if gas
pours out of the carburetor only when cranking the engine, especially with
a mechanical fuel pump, then the gas stops pouring out when the engine isn't
cranked, check for a clogged atmospheric vent passageway in the carburetor.
Sometimes a
mud dauber (wasp-like insect) will build their nest in
a place like this. (I've seen this happen a few times with carburetor rebuilds.)
What makes crankcase oil black is blow-by due to either worn piston rings, carburetor flooding or the engine running rich on fuel (gas). And if there's gas in the oil (you can smell the presence of gas), this means there's a hole in the diaphragm in the mechanical fuel pump. Being there are no fuel pump repair kits available nowadays, an either good used or new replacement fuel pump is required.
How to Separate Gas from Water - (With the price of gasoline nowadays, this would be a wise thing to do.)
Gasoline and alcohol fuels
are both extremely flammable! Use caution and don't smoke, avoid making sparks
or don't have an open flame exposed when working near or with either of them.
Work in a well-ventilated area, too.
By the way - We've been to a lot of garden tractor pulls through the years and noticed that some pulling tractors leak fuel in places where a fuel leak shouldn't be. Therefore, I think the safety inspections should include checking the fuel hoses for dry-rotting, cracks, fuel leaks, loose fittings, etc. (The tractors should have sturdy wheelie bars, too.) The inspectors should grab hold of the fuel hose(s) with their hand, bend it and slightly jerk on it to check for durability. This is very important. Especially in a kid's class. Don't wait until a small issue becomes a major problem, then turn in to a catastrophe. If a pulling club's sanctioning safety rules are enforced, and pullers would build their tractors right and maintain them regularly, there wouldn't be any injuries, fires, or fear of a fire. Click here to read more about a garden pulling tractor catching on fire.
If an engine won't idle or idles poorly, then the following should be checked and corrected...
Solutions: Remove the high speed main fuel adjuster and
if it has only one lower hole, carefully enlarge the hole by hand
with a .039" / #60 / 1mm diameter drill bit clamped in a
mini micro pin vise hand drill chuck. This is the perfect
size to enlarge lower the hole on high speed needle adjusters so the engine
will start quicker and idle better. Being the tube is made of soft brass,
there's no need to use an electric drill. Then use [150± psi] compressed
air to clear out any debris from inside the tube, and then suck through the
tube with your mouth to make sure it's clear and unclogged. If the tube has
two lower through-holes, there's no need to enlarge them because both of
them together makes the opening plenty big. Anyway, if the tube is still
clogged, use a small, bendable steel wire, such as a
bread wrapper twist tie (with the plastic coating stripped
off), to clean out the inside of the tube. Then use the [150± psi]
compressed air to thoroughly clear it out. Suck through the tube with your
mouth to make sure it's clear and unclogged. If performing either of the
above È doesn't clear out the tube,
then acquire a new high speed main fuel needle adjuster or one in good condition.
But make sure it's the correct adjuster for your particular carburetor!
Solution: The carburetor
probably has the wrong high speed needle adjuster. If the adjuster has four
tiny holes midway (Kohler part #'s 235415-S or 48 103 01-S), thoroughly clean
the area around the holes with fine emery cloth or wire wheel, and solder
over (block off) two of the holes opposite of each other with a
soldering gun and
electrical solder. Doing this will create a stronger suction
(vacuum) of fuel through the tube so the engine will idle. Be sure to smooth
the solder (get rid of any lumps) so it won't obstruct the flow of air through
the carburetor.If an engine idles slow when the throttle lever is held to the slowest position by hand, but refuses to idle down on its own, the following may be the causes:
But if an engine idles well, but runs only at higher rpms (up to 3,200 rpm with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet; or 3,600 rpm with an adjustable main jet) with the choke partially closed, or if it surges or hesitates to rev up upon acceleration, this means the engine is running too lean on fuel, and following are the most likely causes: (listed from most common to rare)
Solution: Remove carburetor,
remove float bowl and float, and use a
carburetor jet cleaner wire set or an
oxy-acetylene welding torch tip cleaner to clear out the
dried gas and/or dirt/debris from the main jet.
When cleaning the hole in the main jet, use a
wire cleaner of the appropriate size, and be careful not to enlarge the hole,
or the engine may run too rich on fuel! But if the engine
still runs the same after cleaning the main jet, then the hole in the main
jet will need to be slightly if enlarged a few thousandths of an inch to
give the engine a little more fuel. After cleaning or enlarging the hole
in the main jet, always use [150± psi] compressed air to clear the debris
and/or metal fragments from the carburetor.
But if fuel spews out of
the air vent hole in the gas cap due to normal engine vibrations when the
engine runs at full governored speed, at high rpms or at wide open throttle,
simply install a small piece of reticulated foam sponge inside the cap, beneath
the sealing gasket. The foam will act as a baffle to absorb the fuel, and
it'll still allow air to pass through as the fuel is depleted so the engine
will run.
Solution: If
throttle shaft hole in the carburetor body has a counterbore, install new
flat bronze bushing and/or new throttle shaft, or if no counterbore is present,
have throttle shaft hole precision-bored for installation of a new bronze
sleeve bushing. Click here for more
information.
If a high output/performance ignition
coil (Bosch blue coil) is being used, it requires two ordinary condensers
or one high capacity/performance condenser (Accel).
FYI - If you've had your carburetor apart about 10 times, and you found nothing wrong with it, but the engine still runs the same with the same carburetor installed, then the problem obviously isn't in the carburetor. As an older, experienced mechanic once said, "Most carburetor problems are electrical." (Meaning faulty ignition system.) This has proven true more times than I can remember.
Backfiring out the exhaust upon deceleration is normal for virtually all engines since gas is still going through the combustion chamber, compressing in the exhaust and exploding from the exhaust heat. But if an engine constantly backfires out the exhaust at any speeds after running for several minutes, the problem may be...
The Fuel Solenoid (Anti-Backfire Valve) -
Kohler's Magnum Fuel Solenoid.
Kohler part number 25 755 06-S. These came on certain model M18 engines,
and virtually all M20 and MV20 engines. The purpose of the fuel solenoid
is when the engine is shut down at full throttle, it prevents unburned fuel
from building up in the red hot muffler, being compressed and igniting, causing
a loud bang out the muffler. It sounds just like a shotgun being fired.
The fuel solenoid is used primarily
on engines with a large chamber muffler. It has no effect with smaller
muffler(s). It installs from the top side of the carburetor, and when the
power is disconnected from it, the spring-loaded plunger within blocks off
outside air from entering inside the float bowl, creating a vacuum in the
float bowl. Thus, preventing fuel from being sucked up through the main jet,
through the combustion chambers and into the muffler. With this type of fuel
solenoid, it may take a few seconds for the engine to die after the ignition
is turned off. When the solenoid fails or if it's disconnected, the engine
won't start. To eliminate the solenoid and still use the engine, remove the
carburetor, remove the float bowl and float, cut short 3/8" threads in the
solenoid hole, then plug the hole with a short 3/8" Allen set screw. Be sure
to use [150± psi] compressed air to clear out the metal cuttings from
inside the carburetor afterwards. Without the solenoid, to keep the engine
from backfiring when it's shut down, first idle it down to a slow speed,
then turn off the ignition.
The fuel solenoid used on newer
Briggs & Stratton, Kohler, etc., engines is located on the bottom of
the float bowl. The spring-loaded plunger in it stops the fuel supply to
the combustion chamber by blocking off the main jet as soon as the ignition
is turned off. With this type of fuel solenoid, the engine will die immediately
when the ignition is turned off. This solenoid also prevents a loud BANG
out the muffler when the ignition is turned off while the engine is hot.
Without it, when the [hot] engine is turned off while throttled up, unburned
gas will continue to pass through the combustion chamber, build up in the
still red-hot muffler where the gas is compressed with hot air, and then
produce a loud BANG out the muffler.
If the solenoid goes bad (it's supposed to make a "click" sound when the ignition is turned on), it can be replaced with a new one, or remove it and simply snip off the protruding pin (plunger rod), and reinstall it. Doing this will allow the engine to draw fuel and run. But remember to idle the engine down for a few minutes each time before shutting it off, or like I said, it may produce a loud BANG out the muffler.
How To Loosen a Corroded or Rusted-In-Place Throttle or Choke Shaft, or Adjusting Screw -
EVAPO-RUST® and
Metal Rescue™ are very safe products to use and
works wonders to remove rust and loosen virtually any rusted or corroded
metal part! Just soak the carburetor body for 1 hour for light rust and up
to 12 hours for extremely heavy rust. Then use small
Vise Grips to GENTLY rotate the shaft back and forth
. Don't force it because it could become twisted
and/or break off at the closest plate retaining screw hole! It may rotate
(loosen) just a few thousandths of an inch. After it rotates slightly, spray
it again and gently rotate it again. Eventually, it should rotate more and
swivel 100% free. These products are very safe to use and they work wonders
on virtually anything that's rusted!
GUNK Liquid Wrench® works wonders to loosen virtually
any rusted or corroded metal part! Just spray the ends of the throttle or
choke shaft, let soak for about 30 minutes or perhaps overnight, then use
small
Vise Grips to GENTLY rotate the shaft back and forth
. Don't force it because it could become twisted
and/or break off at the closest plate retaining screw hole! It may rotate
(loosen) just a few thousandths of an inch. After it rotates slightly, spray
it again and gently rotate it again. Eventually, it should rotate more and
swivel 100% free.
If the shaft(s) refuse to loosen with either Evapo-Rust or Liquid Wrench,
remove the float bowl, float, baffle shield and O-ring seal. Clamp the carburetor
in a bench vice, then use an
oxy-acetylene torch to LIGHTLY heat the carburetor
body next to the shaft (don't get the carburetor body too hot!), and use
the Vise Grips to GENTLY rotate the shaft back and forth
. The shaft should swivel 100% free within a
few seconds of heating. Heating might also work to remove a stuck-in-place
idle speed adjuster screw, idle fuel mixture screw or the high speed main
adjuster screw. Be very gentle rotating a brass screw to loosen it because
being brass is a soft metal, it could snap off! And be careful not to get
cast aluminum too hot, it may crumble or split into pieces! Don't use a torch
in an attempt to remove a stuck main jet/nozzle from a carburetor that's
in good condition. Being the aluminum surrounding the main jet/nozzle is
thin, it will most likely crumble or split into pieces under the severe heat,
rendering the carburetor useless.
How To Clean the Inside of A Heavily Rusted or Dirty Fuel Tank -
Fill the gas tank with
EVAPO-RUST® or
Metal Rescue™, leave it for 1 hour for light rust
and up to 12 hours for extremely heavy rust, drain and flush with clean water,
allow to thoroughly dry. These products are very safe to use and they work
wonders on virtually anything that's rusted!
Another method to clean an internally rusted or especially dirty gas tank, put some small driveway gravel in the tank with water, seal the fuel outlet fitting and gas cap vent holes (make sure the gas cap has a good seal), then literally and vigorously shake the heck out of it! Or for less tiresome labor, put the gravel and water in the tank, seal it up, securely tie a blanket around it and then put it in a clothes dryer. Set the dryer on the cold or "No Heat" setting, and let it agitate for a couple of hours. When the water is drained and majority of the gravel removed, use a garden water hose to thoroughly clean out inside the tank. It should look new inside. If there's still some rust or dirt in it, repeat the process until all the rust or dirt is broken loose. And despite of what you've probably heard, putting sugar in a gas tank will NOT ruin the engine! Read about it here: snopes.com: Sugar in the Gas Tank.
To prevent breaking off the throttle or choke plate retaining
screws when removing them, first, grind down the protruding/flared ends of
the screws with a
Dremel or equivalent small grinder chucked with a chainsaw
chain sharpening stone until the threads are flush with the shaft. Then the
screws should be easy to remove from the shaft without them breaking off.
But should a screw break off in the shaft without first grinding down the protruding/flared end, sometimes the shaft can be difficult to remove from the carburetor body. In this case, use the Dremel to grind the flared end of the [broken] screw until it's flush with the shaft. Then the shaft can be removed. Afterwards, the broken screw can be drilled out using a milling machine or drill press with a 1/16" centering bit to make a small depression in the broken screw to prevent "drill bit skating" so either a 5/64", #46 or 2mm bit can be used to drill out the rest of the broken screw, and then the threads may need to be straightened with a 3-48 NC tap. (Don't use a center punch in the broken screw, which could bend the shaft, create a crack when straightened, possibly cause it to break later when in use.) The throttle and choke shafts in Carter and Kohler carburetors originally come with 3-48 NC screws. A #3 split lock washer should be used with a 3-48 screw. Should the threaded hole become enlarged from drilling out the broken screw, the hole(s) can be made bigger with a 4-40 NC tap, and a 4-40 NC screw with a #4 split lock washer will need to be installed.
Be sure to use a split lock
washer of the correct size under each screw to prevent it from becoming dislodged
from the shaft and possibly being sucked into the combustion chamber, resulting
in a bent intake valve or severe damage to the piston and cylinder wall.
By the way - liquid threadlocker is not required with a lock washer.
Removing the Main Jet/Nozzle from a Carter/Kohler #26, #28 or #30 Carburetor -
When rebuilding a plain, stock
Carter/Kohler #26, #28 or #30 carburetor, there is no need to remove the
main jet/nozzle. If the main jet/nozzle will not come out, don't worry about
it. All that has to be done is make sure that the bottom hole and side holes
in the main jet/nozzle are open. To check if the side holes are open, simply
spray WD-40 or aerosol carburetor cleaner through the small hole just beneath
the choke plate and observe if it comes out the main jet/nozzle inside the
throttle bore and float bowl area.
But if the main jet/nozzle is clogged, or if you're boring the venturi to modify the carburetor for high performance use, then the main jet/nozzle definitely needs to be removed. Before attempting to remove the main jet/nozzle, and if the screwdriver slot is in good condition, then I found the best, easiest and proven way to remove it is by the following process. This method works great most of the time and the main jet/nozzle should loosen with no problems.
by hand (with
the screwdriver) to loosen it. Do not use a wooden handle screwdriver because
the handle could break.
If the above
È method still didn't work, then
unfortunately, sometimes the main jet/nozzle will get stuck in place and
the screwdriver slot will strip out. (I hate when this happens.) The alternative
method is to drill out the main jet/nozzle. This process is as follows:
Removing the main jet/nozzle from a Carter #16, #18, #20 or #22 Carburetor for Cleaning -
If the main jet/nozzle in a Carter #16, #18, #20 or #22 carburetor
that's used on Kohler engine models K90 (3.6hp), K91 (4hp), K141 (6¼hp),
K160 (6.6hp), K161 (7hp) or K181 (8hp) needs to be removed for cleaning,
being this type of nozzle is pressed in the carburetor body. It removes and
reinstalls a lot easier than the above È
main jet/nozzle. The removal and installation process is as follows:
By the way - as far as I know, new main jet/nozzles for the Carter #16, #18, #20 or #22 carburetor is not available from any source.
Removing a Broken-Off High Speed Main Fuel Mixture Adjuster Needle Valve from a Carter/Kohler Carburetor -
Sometimes when an engine sits with gas in the fuel system, the old, dried gas residue will cause the high speed adjuster to become seized in the carburetor body. And when attempting to remove it, the hollow tube could will break off flush with the carburetor body. (Anything is possible with soft brass and old, dried gas.) Anyway, The removal process of a broken-off main adjuster is as follows:
If you don't feel comfortable removing the broken adjuster yourself, I charge $30.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling, to remove a broken adjuster.
Using Pump Gas with 10% Ethanol Versus 100% Race Gas in a Pulling Tractor -
First of all, in an daily-driven vehicle, gasoline with no lead is hard on soft cast iron exhaust valve seats. A soft cast iron valve seat is one that's been machined directly into an engine block or cylinder head, and it have not been heated-treated or no hardened insert is installed. In a daily-driven automobile, the seat(s) will eventually deteriorate or the metal will literally "wear away" because the absence of lead in gas to provide a protective coating to prevent wear. And being most exhaust valves are made of extremely hardened steel, they're not likely to wear at all. The intake valve and the cast iron seat is not likely to wear as much, if any. And an engine block or cylinder head with heat-treated seats or have hardened steel exhaust valve seat insert(s) installed, they should not wear whatsoever.
Anyway, the 10% ethanol in pump gas (common everyday automotive fuel) lessens exhaust emissions. Plus, the alcohol content boosts the octane, making it somewhat of a high performance fuel. The lead content in race gas (VP, Turbo Blue, Sunoco, Torco, etc.) boosts the octane also, except it's alcohol-free to pass the tech fuel test for tractor pulling. And the valve seat(s) that's ground in a cast iron block in a pulling engine burning 87 octane unleaded regular gas should last a long time, no longer than the tractor runs down the track (2-3 minutes per pull). They're not being driven a long distance, like in a car or truck.
Average Octane Rating of Various Fuels -
|
|
By the way - I've never had problems with gas having 10% ethanol in any of my small engines or automotive engines. I don't know why anyone else would. Maybe that's because when one is having problems with a small engine not running right, it's much easier to just blame it on "bad gas" than to look for the real problem elsewhere on or in the engine. Remember - it takes three things to make an internal combustion engine run: carburetion, compression and ignition. A professional, thorough and energetic mechanic don't blame the problem on one thing and overlook the other two. Unless of course, he's lazy and looking to make some quick money by doing an easy fix.
NOTE: The main jet (and fuel inlet hole) should not be enlarged for alcohol-free, high octane racing gas, such as VP, Turbo Blue, Sunoco, Premium gas, or gas with 10% ethanol, because these fuels require the same air/fuel mixture ratio as for ordinary, low octane automotive gas. The only time the main jet and fuel inlet holes needs to enlarged is when burning E85 or methanol fuels. If the main jet hole is intentionally enlarged for gas, the engine will run too rich on fuel, and there'll be no way to lean it out.
Using
E85
Fuel in a Garden Tractor or Lawn & Garden Equipment -
What is E85? E85 is the term for motor fuel blends (special blend of automotive fuel) of 85% ethanol (corn alcohol AKA "moonshine") and 15% gasoline. E85 is an alternative fuel as defined by the U.S. Department of Energy. Besides its superior performance characteristics, ethanol burns cleaner than pure gasoline; it is a completely renewable, domestic, environmentally friendly fuel that enhances the nation's economy and energy independence. The addition of ethanol boosts octane and, because it is an oxygenate, ethanol contributes to a more complete fuel combustion resulting in reduced emissions of carbon monoxide and other ozone-forming emissions. Ethanol also degrades quickly in water and, therefore, poses much less risk to the environment than an oil or gasoline spill. To learn more about E85, visit this web site: National Ethanol Vehicle Coalition (http://www.e85fuel.com).
Fueling with E85 is not only beneficial to the environment, you'll most likely see a small increase in performance, which will be accompanied by a small decrease in fuel economy. On average, when an engine is powered by E85, the engine will have about 5% more horsepower and a 10% drop in fuel-efficiency. The added power comes from ethanol's higher (105) octane rating. The fuel economy decrease comes from the fact that ethanol has a lower energy content than gasoline, which means the engine will have to use more of it.
E85 can be used in virtually any gas engine fuel system, new or old. The only problem is, the rubber-like fuel hose, seals and gaskets in the fuel system might deteriorate due to the alcohol content in E85. But if the fuel system has neoprene rubber or synthetic rubber parts, there should be no problems. E85 works great for pulling competition, general yard use or for any small engine equipment. It'll create less carbon build up in the combustion chamber, too. I've reworked lots of carburetors for people who use their garden tractor just to mow grass with and they love how the E85 produces more power. Their only complaint is the engine burns more fuel. But that's the sacrifice for more power. If an engine is converted correctly, E85 should cause no problems with engine wear or fuel system deterioration. Basically, all that needs to be done to the engine is the main jet and fuel inlet (float valve) hole in the carburetor will need to be made about 80% bigger and the ignition timing will need to be advanced about 20% more. If the main jet isn't enlarged, the engine probably won't run on E85, or if it does, it will run too lean on fuel, overheat the engine, possibly damage the valves, piston and piston rings because of the excessive operating temperature. And if the timing isn't advanced enough to thoroughly burn the [slower burning] E85 fuel, some of it will exit out the exhaust unburned, with no increase in power.
When advancing the ignition timing past
24º± BTDC, and if the camshaft has an automatic compression release,
it will need to be removed because the spark will occur when the exhaust
valve opens slightly to relieve some of the compression, possibly preventing
the engine from starting or making it hard to start. And to make the engine
easier to crank over easier and start under full compression, a high torque
starter motor with separate starter and ignition switches to prevent "kick
back" will need to be used.
No special motor oil is required with E85. But with prolonged idling, the oil may need to be changed more often. The 20% increase in the main jet and fuel inlet holes, and ignition timing applies to virtually all small engine carburetors and engines, despite the make or manufacturer.
E85 can be purchased at select gas stations in the U.S. It cost less per gallon than regular unleaded gasoline. And an engine will burn about 20% more fuel than gas with E85, but it'll also produce about 10% more power, operate cooler, have a cleaner combustion chamber and the engine will last longer.
On the 7hp and 8hp Kohler K-series and Magnum engines, with the Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetor, the hole in the main jet for 100% gasoline measures exactly 3/64" (.046") in diameter. To convert these carburetors for use with E85, enlarge the main jet and fuel inlet (float valve) holes with a 5/64" or #47 (.078") drill bit. NOTE: Drill the fuel inlet from the inside out (opposite flow of fuel) to prevent a burr that may cause the carburetor to leak fuel or flood out. For accuracy, use a small metal lathe to drill the hole bigger. The ignition timing will also need to be advanced to 24 degrees BTDC so the engine will take full advantage and make maximum power of the slower burning, higher octane fuel. Then with the engine running at 3,600 rpm, adjust the high-speed fuel mixture needle valve so the engine runs smooth.
On the 10hp-16hp flathead single- and twin-cylinder Kohler K-series and Magnum engines with the older Carter/Kohler carburetors, the factory hole in the main jet size for 100% gasoline measures exactly 1/16" (.0625") in diameter. To convert these carburetors for use with E85, enlarge the main jet and fuel inlet (float valve) holes with a 3/32" or #42 (.094") drill bit. NOTE: Drill the fuel inlet from the inside out (opposite flow of fuel) to prevent a burr that may cause the carburetor to leak fuel or flood out. For accuracy, use a small metal lathe to drill the hole bigger. The ignition timing will also need to be advanced to 24 degrees BTDC so the engine will make full advantage and make maximum power of the slower burning, higher octane fuel. Then with the engine running at 3,600 rpm, adjust the high-speed air/fuel mixture needle valve until the engine runs smoothly.
To convert virtually any 4-cycle engine to run well and produce full power on E85 fuel...
The Advantages of Using 100% Methanol Fuel -
If the carburetor have been reworked and the ignition timing are adjusted and set correctly, methanol can produce up to 13% increase in horsepower. If the fuel is set slightly rich (which it should be), there's no need to constantly adjust the carburetor settings and/or ignition timing to compensate for changes in hot or cold weather conditions. Because of its low volatile octane rating (ability to burn quick), methanol shouldn't be used for general yard use. It's primarily a high performance fuel only, and should be used only in a high performance engine. Starting fluid (ether) or gasoline may need to be sprayed or squirted into the carburetor to get the engine started in cooler weather, though. And, faster gearing may be needed because of the increase in horsepower and torque.
It may take some experimentation to get a particular tractor to perform on methanol. Just because most experienced pullers get their tractors hooked-up good on it is no reason anyone else can't. Once one do get their tractor to perform on methanol, they'll be reluctant to go back to gas. By the way - methanol can be purchased at most places that sell racing fuels. And it cost less than 1/3 of racing gas fuels (per gallon).
Using Methanol in a Garden Pulling Tractor -
Methanol, also known as wood alcohol, is made primary from natural gas. And is the best high performance fuel available. Far better than any expensive "racing" petroleum fuel. It'll help any 4-stroke high performance engine produce more power and run much cooler. Methanol is a safe fuel to use, too. But if anyone feels uncomfortable using or converting an engine for use of methanol, please consult with a professional engine builder.
Methanol will mix equally with water and it evaporates quickly. The important thing to remember when storing methanol is the keep it in an air tight container in a dry place. Because it can easily draw moisture when stored for a long period, especially in a metal container. (Unlike plastic, steel gets cold, which draws condensation.) If one suspects that water had gotten into the methanol, it can be separated easily by using chamois leather. The chamois will absorb the water and allow the methanol to pass through. If gas has 10% alcohol, then the alcohol will mix the water with the gas and it will appear to have no water at all. The only way to separate the water from the gas and alcohol is through a chamois. Again, the chamois will absorb the water and allow the fuels to drain through.
If your club's sanctioning rules say that the methanol fuel must be able to pass a water test, then just use 100% pure methanol with no oil. (To some clubs, oil is also known as a "contaminant.") Pure methanol will remain clear in water, but turn cloudy in water when mixed with oil. And it's important that the main fuel mixture on the carburetor be richened slightly, to keep from burning the piston (because of the lack of oil in the fuel).
Methanol has absolutely no effect on rubber, neoprene rubber or OEM carburetor or fuel system parts nor does it get stale like gas does. (Don't just theorize about such things, believe in myths, rumors or what some [delusional] people/mechanics/technicians tell you. Perform a scientific test to prove to yourself and debunk the myths. I always do.) But methanol will corrode aluminum as plain water does if it is not drained and allowed to evaporate from the fuel system over an extended length of time. After the methanol is drained and flushed out of the fuel system, motor oil should be applied to the metal parts to protect the surfaces from oxidation.
Because methanol will ignite only in a narrow range of high temperatures, it is less likely to catch on fire should an accident occur. If methanol does catch on fire, unlike gasoline, water can extinguish the flames.
Methanol burns much slower than the highest octane gasoline. (It has about 135 octane rating.) Therefore, the ignition timing must be advanced more than for gas when burning methanol. If the timing isn't advanced enough, some of the methanol will go unburned and little will be gained. Modifications to the point lobe on the camshaft may need to be made in order to achieve the full ignition timing setting. Methanol also requires a hotter spark. Therefore, a high-output/performance ignition coil is needed, along with a wide spark plug gap (.060"). NOTE - Never run over-advanced ignition timing with any petroleum-based fuel (gas) just to try to get "more power." All that does is seriously overheat the engine and could weaken (collapse) the piston rings, shrink the piston, warp the cylinder head and exhaust valve and it could even cause the engine block to crack.
As methanol burns, it produces tremendous combustion chamber pressures under
wide-open throttle conditions, especially in engines that's been ported,
with oversized valves and a big cam, and even more so during cooler weather.
To prevent possible cylinder/crankcase separation or an "engine explosion,"
the cylinder must be securely "strapped" or fastened to the crankcase. Especially
on 12hp engines and up. So strap it now, or scrap it later! Methanol
works best in a high compression engine, too.
"Strapping" the cylinder to the crankcase is when a flat piece of heavy steel or aluminum is across the cylinder head and fastened by means of two minimum 1/2" diameter threaded rods, one located just behind the flywheel and the other on the PTO end of the block. It keeps the cylinder from literately breaking loose from the crankcase because of a thin cylinder wall and/or due to extremely high compression.
Moreover, if you had a 10hp block bored for a 12hp piston, or a 12hp block bored for a 14hp piston, and you use your tractor to push snow, definitely strap the cylinder to the crankcase! Because it now has a much thinner cylinder wall, and the cold winter air is more dense (like the air is thicker or there's more of it). Dense air will build up the compression pressure within the combustion chamber, causing the engine to produce more power. But what also happens is at full throttle, this high compression is pushing upward on the cylinder head, and pulling upward on the cylinder wall. And sometimes the cylinder wall will break, ruining the whole engine. I know, I've seen this happen to a good engine. No joke.
Methanol produces a "cooling effect" as it enters an engine at high velocity (high rpm). And, it's a clean burning fuel, it won't carbon up the combustion chamber, foul-out the spark plug or even harm the ozone layer. The crankcase motor oil may need to be changed periodically though.
Here's another thing concerning methanol fuel - when it evaporates, it leaves behind very small particles of white, flaky calcium deposits in the entire fuel system. Which is normal and unavoidable. These deposits can clog and ruin a good fuel filter, but will not harm the engine or any other part of the fuel system. So to keep from having any [future] fuel flow problems, don't install a fuel filter. Instead, strain the fuel with a filtering material, such as a paint filter, coffee filter, fine mesh screen wire, clean cloth shop towel or fine woven window curtain, before it is poured into the fuel tank. Place the filtering material in a wide-mouth funnel, and pour the fuel through it into the tank. If there are any very small particles of dirt present in the fuel, they should pass right through the carburetor, being the jets have been enlarged.
The above È also works great if you have some "questionable" dirty gas, and the gas is still fresh. At the price of gas nowadays, this would be better than throwing it out.
Fuel filters can only filter so much of a grain of dirt. Anything smaller will pass right through, most of time causing no harm. Sometimes a hair will pass through a wire mesh fuel filter, lodging in the float valve, keeping it closing all the way because it can't get past the bend. It'll cause the carburetor to flood overnight. I've seen this happen a few times. On certain small engines, the flooding gas will seep down into the motor oil, ruining it. Briggs & Stratton riding mower engines are notorious for this. All you can do is clean out the carburetor and hope it doesn't happen again. And if there's enough fresh gas in the crankcase, sometimes the crankcase will explode if the engine backfires through the carburetor. The backfire flame will sometimes travel through the valve cover and into the crankcase.
Most garden tractor carburetors can be easily converted for methanol use. The main thing to keep in mind is that methanol requires about twice the volume of fuel than gas. (Approximately a 5-6:1 ratio for methanol versus 10-12:1 ratio for gas). To run methanol, the main jet and fuel inlet (float valve) holes will need to be enlarged to about 95% of their original size.
High compression engines naturally operate at a higher operating temperature. When using low octane gasoline (Regular Unleaded or 87 octane rating) in a high compression engine, the octane of the gas is reduced by 1 point for every 10º above the normal operating combustion chamber temperature that it is formulated for. This will cause the gas to burn faster. When trying to restart a high compression overheated engine on low octane gas, what is happening is the gas is burning quickly and entirely in the combustion chamber, and producing expanding heat before the piston reaches TDC, driving the piston back down in the cylinder before it reaches TDC. This is the cause of detonation (pounding of the piston) and it'll cause the engine to "grunt" or momentarily make the crankshaft rotate in the opposite direction (but the weight of the flywheel prevents this from happening). Overheating could also crack the [cast iron] cylinder, shrink the piston, burn a hole in the piston (detonation) and weaken the expansion of the piston rings. Methanol fuel has an octane rating of 135. This is why methanol works best in a high performance, high compression engine.
White deposits on the exhaust valve and in the combustion chamber is normal with gas fuels. Due to the lesser amount of gas in E-85, it leaves behind very little deposits, and methanol doesn't leave any deposits because there's no carbon in the fuel. Only fossil fuels have carbon in them and that's what's left behind in the combustion chamber and on the exhaust valve.
Did you know that high octane gas or "race car gas" (approximately 109-110 octane) is much better than any filling station pump gas when used in a high performance engine? Higher octane gas burns slow, producing more heat, thus allowing an engine to develop more power. Because heat is how an engine produces power. Methanol fuel produces even more heat than gas does.
Methanol never gets stale while setting around. It's burning factors (the qualities that produce power) remain intact until all of the fuel evaporates. Gasoline on the other hand, as it gets old or stale, it's burning factors is the first thing to go. Unlike methanol, eventually all that is left of the old gas is some "foul smelling residue." Methanol never smells "old" or "stale."
If the air/fuel ratio isn't properly adjusted with both methanol or gasoline, possible engine damage may result. If either fuel is leaned-out too much, possible piston to cylinder wall scuffing, scoring or even seizure may result. If methanol is ran too rich, the oil on the cylinder wall may be diluted, causing excessive wear to the piston, rings and sometimes the cylinder wall. And if gas is ran too rich, loss in power may result with possible spark plug fouling. (Methanol is more forgiving to an engine than gas.)
A high performance cam, larger piston, big valves and a bigger carburetor will undoubtedly help gas-burning engines develop more power. But only from the use of the parts themselves. Methanol on the other hand, will help give an engine a little more boost. Simply from the fuel itself.
Engines will consume less fuel burning gas than methanol. Something good for gas and not for methanol. Which is why methanol is not used on the open market in daily driven automobiles.
Some racing gasolines could eventually cause an engine to wear prematurely when used under high performance conditions (and if the ignition timing is over-advanced). Piston wear, piston ring expansion failure, valve warping, even motor oil breakdown could result over time due to the high operating temperatures of gas in a high compression engine. (Especially on air cooled engines with no cooling system.)
An engine runs cooler burning methanol than gas. The reason why? Approximately twice the amount of methanol fuel enters an engine. There's more fuel per parts of air. As a result, this allows an engine to operate at a much cooler temperature. Gasoline on the other hand, runs less fuel per parts of air. Therefore, it's a "lean" burning fuel. Gas allows a high-compression engine to operate at a higher temperature. Which in turn could cause premature engine wear. Simply because too much heat itself will cause a good engine to wear out faster than anything else.
For more information on methanol, click here: Erowid Alcohol Vault : Methanol Material Safety Data Sheet and Race fuel - Alcohol fuels.
100% ethanol (AKA moonshine) and denatured alcohol burns pretty much the same as 100% methanol. There's very little difference between these alcohol fuels. If an engine is converted correctly for use with these fuels, it will produce the same amount of power, run cooler and last longer.
By the way - If you've ever wondered if moonshine runners burned moonshine in their cars, well, they probably didn't. Because first of all, they needed to make money off the moonshine that they made. And second, the engine would need to be converted and car modified for use with 100% pure alcohol so it would burn thoroughly and it wouldn't cause harm to the engine at higher rpms. This means the fuel inlet hole and main jets in the carburetor would need to be drilled twice their original size, a bigger fuel line would need to be installed for more fuel flow, a bigger electric fuel pump would also need to be installed to pump twice the volume of fuel from the tank to the carburetor, a high-secondary voltage ignition system would need to be installed with wider spark plug gaps, and the ignition timing would need to be advanced to 38° BTDC to thoroughly burn the alcohol. And after all this, the car would burn TWICE as much fuel resulting in VERY poor mileage. And they couldn't stop and fill up along the way with more moonshine while the cops were on their tail! (Gasoline would be a lot more economical!)
On the K90, K141, K160, K161, K181/M8 Kohler K-series and Magnum engines, with the Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetor, the hole in the main jet size for 100% gasoline measures exactly 3/64" (.046") in diameter. To convert these carburetors for use with methanol, enlarge the main jet and fuel inlet (float valve) holes with a 3/32" (.094") diameter drill bit. NOTE: Drill the fuel inlet from the inside out (opposite flow of fuel), to prevent a burr that may cause the carburetor to leak fuel or flood. For best accuracy, use a small metal lathe to drill the hole. The ignition timing will also need to be advanced to 30 degrees BTDC so the engine will take full advantage and make maximum power of the slower burning, higher octane fuel. Then with the engine running at 3,600 rpm, adjust the high-speed fuel mixture needle valve so the engine runs smooth.
On the 10hp-16hp single- and twin-cylinder Kohler K-series and Magnum engines Carter/Kohler carburetors with the fully adjustable high speed main jet, the factory hole in the main jet size for 100% gasoline measures exactly 1/16" (.0625") in diameter. To convert these carburetors for use with methanol, the main jet and fuel inlet (float valve) holes will also need to be enlarged with a 7/64" (.109") drill bit. NOTE: Drill the fuel inlet from the inside out (opposite flow of fuel), to prevent a burr that may cause the carburetor to leak fuel or flood. For best accuracy, use a small metal lathe to drill the hole. The ignition timing will also need to be advanced to 30 degrees BTDC so the engine will take full advantage and make maximum power of the slower burning, higher octane fuel. Then if it's a stock engine, with the engine running at 3,600 rpm, adjust the high-speed air/fuel mixture needle valve until the engine runs smoothly.
To convert virtually any 4-cycle engine to run well and produce full power on 100% denatured alcohol, ethanol or methanol fuels...
Testing Methanol Fuel for Contaminants - (Updated 1/20/11)
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It's a good idea to use a small amount of special upper cylinder
lubricant (such as
Lucas Oil,
M2 Upper Lube
& Lead Additive,
Marvel Mystery
Oil, etc.) mixed with methanol to prevent possible piston-to-cylinder
scoring and to help lubricate the valve stems and guides. If a lubricant
isn't used and if methanol is ran too lean (especially in cool weather),
this could ruin a good high-dollar piston and possibly score the cylinder
wall. Methanol must be ran rich if no lubricant is mixed with it. But some
sanctioning pulling rules (such as the
NQS)
don't allow lubricant to be mixed with methanol because it boosts the octane
and will likely fail in a fuel test, which means the tractor will be disqualified
after competing. The more oil that is added, the higher the octane will
be.
When pulling under rules that require 100% methanol fuel, and if a tractor have been using methanol with a lubricant, be sure to completely drain and flush the entire fuel system. Use [150± psi] compressed air to clear out the fuel tank, fuel hose, fuel pump, carburetor, etc. Because any trace amount of lubricant remaining will mix with the methanol and be cause for failure in a fuel test. Some new neoprene rubber fuel hoses contains oil. This means if 100% methanol is supposed to be used, the fuel hose must be flushed with a solvent (paint thinner), then use [150± psi] compressed air to clear it out, and then allow it to thoroughly air-dry. Methanol by itself is clear, like water. To test it for an added lubricant, pour a small amount of methanol in a clean, clear capped glass container with a small amount of oil, then shake it. If it appears "cloudy," it's contaminated. You can also smell methanol for contaminants. The Fuel Rule for the 2013 NQS Classes Are As Follows: All tractors in all classes are to run methanol, with no additives (except for diesel fueled tractors). There are two U.S. Federal Grades. Grade A and AA. Either grade is permitted to use. Pullers should ensure that the methanol they purchase meets federal standards of purity. Methanol is tested at all NQS events by various chemical analyses as considered appropriate by the NQS Fuel Tech personnel. Deviation from the standards listed below in the fuel sample will result in disqualification. Methanol is a hygroscopic substance and readily absorbs moisture from the air, which rapidly renders methanol illegal as a fuel for use in NQS pulling. Pullers are cautioned to keep methanol containers tightly sealed at all times to minimize the absorption of water. |
 I remember when gasoline
for certain automotive engines was for the following compression ratios:
Anything up to 9.25:1, it was okay to use Regular (low octane); between
9.25-10.5:1 required Premium (mid octane); and anything above 10.5:1 required
Ethyl (high octane).
I'd also like to share this old gas station joke: Car owner that
just pulled up to the pump: "Fill 'er up... Ethyl!"
Gas
station attendant: "I'll fill up your car, but don't call me
Ethel." |
Using a Gravity Feed Fuel Flow System -
When burning gas only (not methanol) and if an engine is going to turn no faster than approximately 4,000 rpm (governed limit; the factory setting of maximum rpm for virtually all small gas engines, including all of Kohler engines is 3,600), then a gravity feed fuel system with the gas tank positioned higher than the carburetor, stock fuel fittings and fuel hose should work fine. (Gravity feed is defined as when the lowest part of the gas tank is positioned higher than the carburetor, and there's no fuel pump involved.)
If the gas tank sets higher
than the carburetor, and if a large i.d. fuel hose and fittings are used,
and if the float level is set a little high, then a gravity feed fuel system
should work great for a stock engine turning no more than 4,000 rpm. But
a vacuum-operated (or pulse-type), mechanical or electric fuel pump will
guarantee that the carburetor will not starve for fuel about halfway down
the track. Also, carefully enlarge the fuel inlet valve seat hole to 7/64"
(.109"). This will allow more delivery of fuel in the float bowl so the engine
will not starve for fuel halfway down the track. Be sure to set the
float a little high too, so as it drops down, the fuel inlet valve will open
more, allowing more fuel to be deposited in the float bowl.
FYI - All vacuum-operated fuel pumps operate off of the crankcase pressure. The moving piston(s) inside the crankcase of the engine create the pulsating effect to activate the pump's diaphragm. And all crankcase-pulse, vacuum-operated fuel pumps come with three fittings - one that connects to the crankcase of the engine block and an IN and OUT fuel hose fittings. It should say on the body of the pump where each fitting connects to. But if it doesn't, then the fitting coming from the center of the pump connects to the crankcase vent. And the other two fittings, one connect to the gas tank and the other connects to the carburetor.
If an engine in an ATV or UTV sputters and/or dies after going over rough terrain, this could be caused by a defective vacuum-operated fuel pump. Overtime, the fuel pump bodies become warped and oil in the crankcase is preventing air from working the diaphragm the way it should. If the engine has a 12 volt electrical system with a charging system, it'll be better to install a low pressure electric fuel pump. (Listed further down in this web site.) These rarely give trouble.
To test a plastic crankcase-pulse, vacuum-operated fuel pump, first check that the fuel hose (hose) between the gas tank and fuel pump is open and unobstructed, or if it has dry-rot cracks, which can cause a vacuum leak. To test it, disconnect the fuel hose from the fuel pump and wrap a shop/business towel or clean rag around an air blower nozzle and then insert the nozzle with the rag or towel in the gas tank filler neck. Apply light air pressure in the tank. If fuel comes out of the fuel hose, then it's open. After that, reconnect the fuel hose to the fuel pump. To test the fuel pump itself, first check the hose that connects the fuel pump to the engine crankcase to see if it has a kink in it or if it has dry-rot cracks, which can also cause a vacuum leak. If it's in good condition, then the final step is to disconnect the fuel hose from the carburetor and with adequate amount of fuel in the gas tank, crank the engine and at the same time observe how much fuel is being pumped out of the pump. If there seems to be adequate amount of fuel coming from it, hold your finger over the end of the line and while still cranking the engine, it should build up a small amount of pressure. If none or very little fuel comes out of the pump, then it's bad and needs replacing.
When a vacuum-operated fuel pump fails to pump fuel, in most cases, the body of the fuel pump will become warped, causing a vacuum leak either from within or from the outside, preventing the diaphragm from pulsating. If the diaphragm is still flexible, chances are, the pump can be repaired by resurfacing the body halves on a flat sanding disc until they're perfectly flat again.
What Exactly Is "Vapor Lock"?
Vapor lock only happens with certain older carbureted cars and trucks with a mechanical fuel pump that's fastened to the engine block. Vapor lock occurs when the [metal] gas line is too close to the hot exhaust, and when the vehicle is in slow traffic, the fuel is moving very slow in the line. Due to extreme heat from the exhaust and on a hot day, and the fan blade not blowing that much air past the exhaust, sometimes the heat will cause the gas to boil, forming air bubbles or air pockets, and the fuel vaporizes, and then the fuel pump can't pump vaporized fuel (air). So as soon as the carburetor runs out of fuel, the engine stalls. The fuel pump will "lock" with vapors trapped inside it. When the vehicle cools, incoming gas will force the air out of the fuel pump and through the carburetor, allowing the fuel to return to the pump, and then the engine will start and run again. This don't happen nowadays with automobiles having fuel injection because the entire fuel hose is pressurized.
But on lawn tractors or garden tractors, the fuel hose is located nowhere near the hot exhaust. What is really happening when the engine stalls, is either the fuel system is dirty, the ignition coil is bad, or there's insufficient valve to lifter clearance.
Using a Mechanical Fuel Pump -
When running a pulling engine at wide open throttle, sometimes the engine will starve for fuel with gravity feed fuel system. Therefore, Kohler's camshaft-driven mechanical fuel pump or a low-pressure electric fuel pump should be used to guarantee that the carburetor will receive plenty of fuel at all times. The mechanical pump should be used on a pulling tractor when burning gas only. They're not capable of delivering sufficient amount of fuel with E85 or methanol at high rpms like an electric pump will.
Mechanical plastic and metal body fuel pumps are very durable
and they work pretty well, for both yard machines and stock competitive pulling
with gas. The diaphragm or gaskets rarely go bad in the mechanical fuel pump.
It's usually one or both of the poppet valves that goes bad. They can become
dislodged, or rusted or corroded from long term water contamination. If the
poppet valves are in good condition and snug in their counterbores, but if
the pump doesn't pump fuel, then in most cases, the fuel pump body halves
become warped, creating a vacuum leak at the diaphragm. The pump body halves
can be resurfaced on a flat sanding disc until perfectly flat and then after
reassembly, the pump should work as good as new. (I use the side of the
cutting wheel on my
14" chop saw. Works great! Be sure to use eye protection!)
Be sure to use a
deburring tool after resurfacing to get rid of any sharp
edges, and thoroughly clean all parts with [150± psi] compressed air
before reassembly! If this doesn't fix the problem, then perhaps a new or
used reconditioned pump will need to be acquired.
To test the fuel pump for fuel flow off the engine, submerge the inlet port in a container of clean (filtered) cleaning solvent (paint thinner) and then work the lever quickly by hand. The solvent should squirt forcibly out the outlet port. If the pump doesn't start pumping right away, submerge the entire fuel pump in the solvent and work the lever to prime it and remove the air internally. After checking to see how well it works, to test the psi, a low-pressure gauge can be connected to the outlet port. The pressure should be 1-½ to 2 psi. To increase the pressure to about 2-½ psi (maximum), disassemble the pump and physically stretch the diaphragm pressure spring until it's about 3/4" longer than original length. To increase the volume (more fuel flow), the stroke of the fuel pump lobe on the camshaft would need to be lengthened approximately 1/8" by welding it up on the high side and reground deeper on the low side. Or better yet, use an electric fuel pump.
The only problem when using a gasket to fasten the fuel pump to the block is, being the mounting flange is so thin, it will warp over time, causing an oil leak. (This happens to every pump I've seen.) To fix this, and to [possibly] prevent an oil leak in the future, completely disassemble the pump, remove the lever and arm (be careful not to lose the spring) and use a flat sanding disc to resurface the mounting flange until it's perfectly flat. The trick to reinstalling the spring is, reinstall the arm, lever and support pin in the pump body first, then install the spring with a small, flat screwdriver. (The pumps with the manual fuel primer lever is harder to reassemble.) To keep the flange from warping again, fasten it directly to the block using only Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant and use no gasket, or a very thin gasket. Finally, install a flat washer (and of course, a split lock washer) under each mounting screw head to distribute even pressure on the flange and to prevent the screws from loosening. By the way - I've always preferred to use Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant for three reasons: Gaskets don't always seal the irregularities between mating metals, especially thin metal covers; being it's an adhesive, it bonds parts together, forming a leak-proof seal; and being it's clear, it makes for a clean and professional-looking repair job. It can't be seen between the parts.
The purpose of Kohler's older
and now obsolete mechanical fuel pump with the hand lever (thin metal
piece that hangs down under the pump body) is for when the engine runs out
of fuel, after refilling the gas tank, it takes less time to manually prime
the fuel pump with the lever by hand to refill the carburetor than it would
to crank the engine so the fuel pump can draw fuel from the tank and deliver
it to the carburetor. This was a nice feature, especially on engines with
a rope or rewind starter! It also saved wear and tear on the starter motor
from cranking for a long time, which could burn up the starter or run down
the battery.
FYI - All of Kohler's 10-16hp
flatheads and the OHV 18hp engines come with a lobe on the cam to activate
the mechanical fuel pump. The fuel pump installs with the lever positioned
upwards. And if there's no provision for mounting a mechanical fuel pump,
a 3/4" center hole and two small threaded bolt holes will need to be drilled,
and the mounting holes tapped for 1/4-20 NC threads. Use a fuel pump mounting
gasket as a templet.
Troubleshooting a Faulty Vacuum-Operated or Mechanical Fuel Pump -
If an engine sits for about one week or longer, if the fuel in the carburetor evaporates and it's hard to start, or fuel must be squirted into the carburetor to get the engine started, then this means that the vacuum-operated or mechanical fuel pump may be bad. The inlet valve in the pump is leaking, which is allowing the fuel to drain back into the gas tank with the engine off. As the pump tries to syphon fuel from the tank to refill the carburetor, it's unable because the inlet valve is bad. Solution: a new fuel pump will need to be installed. When a vacuum or mechanical fuel pump quits working, below Ê are the causes:
|
|
Advertisement:
| If you need any of the items listed below
Ê, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (home/shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell/text). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays),
9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When
speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) Please call before
coming on a weekend so I'll be here waiting for our
arrival.Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. Send
a message with Yahoo Messenger:
|
|
 Mechanical fuel
pumps for Kohler K90 (3.6hp), K91 (4hp), K141 (6¼hp), K160 (6.6hp),
K161 (7hp) and K181/M8 (8hp) K-series and Magnum (flathead) single cylinder
cast iron block engines. Use the supplied snap ring to press the tabs in
the fittings to install and rotate them. New pumps for thread-in fittings
and/or with primer lever no longer available.
L Kohler part # 41 559 05-S.
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|
 Plastic Body
Mechanical fuel pumps for Kohler K-series and Magnum models K241/M10 (10hp),
K301/M12 (12hp), K330/K331 (12½hp), K321/M14 (14hp), K341/M16 (16hp)
flatheads and K361 (18hp OHV) single cylinder cast iron block engines. Use
the supplied snap ring to press the tabs in the fittings to install and rotate
them. Kohler part # 47 559 11-S.
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|
 Metal Body Mechanical
fuel pumps for Kohler K-series and Magnum models K241/M10 (10hp), K301/M12
(12hp), K330/K331 (12½hp), K321/M14 (14hp), K341/M16 (16hp) flatheads
and K361 (18hp OHV) single cylinder cast iron block engines. Originally designed
and made by the
Carter
Carburetor Corporation. OEM Kohler part # A-271704-S.
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|
 Mechanical fuel
pumps for Kohler models KT17, KT17II, KT19, KT19II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20
and MV20 Magnum series flathead twin cylinder engines. Use the supplied snap
ring to press the tabs in the fittings to install and rotate them. New
pumps for thread-in fittings no longer available.
L Kohler part # 52 559 03-S.
|
|
 Mechanical fuel
pumps for Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582 twin cylinder flathead
engines. Use the supplied snap ring to press the tabs in the fittings to
install and rotate them. New pumps for thread-in fittings no longer
available. L Kohler part # 48 559 05-S.
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|
Fuel Pump Mounting
Gasket. Fits all models of Kohler engines with a camshaft-operated fuel pump.
Approximately 1/32" thick. Kohler part # 25 041 10-S.
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Heat Isolator
Fuel Pump Mounting Gasket. Fits all models of Kohler engines with
a camshaft-operated fuel pump. Manufactured of heat-resistant
phenolic resin. This particular gasket prevents crankcase heat
from being transferred to the fuel pump. Along with the
heat isolator carburetor mounting
gasket, the cooler fuel
atomizes
better before entering combustion chamber to improve engine performance.
Ideal for heavy yard/garden work and/or stock competitive
pulling. OEM Kohler part # 277649-S.
|
 Fuel Pump Hole
Block-Off Plates. Install for gravity fuel feed or when using an electric
fuel pump. Kohler part # 240282-S.
Coming Soon! A-1 Miller's own CNC-machined oval-shaped aluminum fuel pump hole block-off plate. Projected price: $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling. As soon as I have this part available, it'll be posted here. |
|
 Mounting screws
for fuel pumps and block-off plates above. 1/4-20 NC threads x 3/4" long.
Phillips head. Comes with split lock washer. Kohler part # X-174-2-S.
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|
  Low Pressure Electric Fuel Pump Kits. Small and compact. Replace
faulty vacuum or mechanical fuel pump, or upgrade to one of these pumps for
more fuel delivery. Each produces 2.5-4.5 psi @ 30 gph. Requires no fuel
regulator. Use for general yard and garden work, or for garden tractor pulling.
Will work for most single- and twin-cylinder gas engines such as Kohler,
Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh, Wisconsin, etc., on virtually all models
of Cub Cadet, John Deere, Wheel Horse, Sears Suburban, Massey Ferguson, and
just about any lawn & garden equipment with a 12 volt electrical system.
Alcohol resistant and very durable. For stock engines or engines running
at wide open throttle. Suitable for small gas engines up to 4 cylinder carbureted
engines. Instant fuel prime to the carburetor as soon as pump is powered
up. Ideal when equipment runs out of gas and no need to crank engine for
a long time to refill carburetor to restart engine. Saves on starter motor
wear. Each operates on 12 volts DC. Rather than a motor or diaphragm, these
solenoid pumps use a piston actuated by an electromagnetic coil to generate
fuel pressure and flow. By using only short pulses of electricity, this pump
is very efficient. Click here
for electric fuel pump installation diagram. IMPORTANT: As with any
electric fuel pump, to prepare for long-term storage, drain and flush out
all fuel, and fill inside of pump with light oil to prevent oxidation and
possible sticking of internal moving parts.
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|
When to Use an Electric Fuel Pump -
When
burning E85 or methanol fuels, more fuel volume (increase in flow) is required
and a
low pressure electric fuel pump should be used. The carburetor
on most garden tractor engines don't require a lot of fuel pressure. One
nice thing about electric fuel pumps besides they're very reliable, is that
they're self-priming. Meaning when an engine runs out of fuel, there's less
risk of burning up the starter motor from excessive cranking for a vacuum
or mechanical pump to pump gas to the carburetor. As soon as the ignition
is turned on (if the electric pump is wired in with the ignition circuit),
the electric pump immediately puts gas to the carburetor.
Most electric fuel pumps are compact, vibration-proof (has solid state dependability), self-priming, easy to install and connect the wiring. They work with either gas, E85 or methanol fuels, won't flood the carburetor, draw very little amperage from the battery, and they cost less than most OEM electric fuel pumps. They're perfect for garden tractors having either a single- or two-cylinder engine.
An electric fuel pump that's made
for an import car/truck produce more flow than any of Kohler's mechanical
pumps, and in most cases, they don't produce not enough pressure to flood
the carburetor. With some high-pressure electric fuel pumps however, an
adjustable fuel pressure regulator with a fuel gauge may need to be used
in-line. Install a "T" in the fuel hose and connect the gauge between the
fuel pump or fuel regulator and carburetor. To begin with, set the regulator
at about 2-1/2 p.s.i. Make the final adjustment on the fuel pressure at
wide
open throttle, hooked to the sled, while going down the track. Use a
quality fuel pressure gauge that can withstand the vibrations of a garden
pulling tractor to monitor the pressure. A low pressure gauge can be purchased
off of
eBay.
Another good thing about an electric fuel pump verses a mechanical pump (if the mechanical pump doesn't have a primer lever, which must be primed manually) is if an engine runs out of fuel, the engine will not have to be cranked for a long time to get the fuel pumped up to the carburetor, which can be hard on an electric starter motor.
When connecting the wires for an electric fuel pump on the tractor with battery ignition, the pump should come with detailed instructions. But if there's no instructions, then connect one wire (usually black in color) to the chassis of the tractor (ground), and the other wire (usually red in color) to the ignition system. The wire going to the coil from the ignition switch is a good one to connect to. On a tractor with magneto ignition, use a separate OFF/ON toggle switch for the fuel pump.
How To Prepare Any Fuel Pump for Wintertime or Long-Term Storage -
If the equipment is equipped with an electric or mechanical fuel pump, apply light oil or automatic transmission fluid in the pump to prevent oxidation of internal moving parts.
Advertisement:
| If you need your Carter/Kohler or Walbro carburetor rebuilt for daily
use or if you want your carburetor professionally reworked for high performance
use on a Stock, Hot-Stock, Stock-Altered or Pro-Stock pulling tractor, or
if you wish to purchase a rebuilt carburetor, please contact A-1 Miller's
Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136
USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313
(home/shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell/text). Please call Monday-Friday (except
Holidays), 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again
later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
Please call before coming on a weekend so I'll be here waiting for our
arrival.Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. Send
a message with Yahoo Messenger:
|
FYI: I can professionally rebuild older vintage and antique carburetors virtually of any kind as well as newer ones, as long as replacement parts are available. I also have the capability to fabricate new throttle and choke shafts. Please contact us if you have any questions.
Carburetor Repairs - YOUR 10hp-18hp Carter/Kohler or Walbro carburetor: FYI - Many of my customers send me their carburetors for rebuilding, but lots of times I couldn't find anything wrong them. So I'd call my customers just before returning their carburetor asking how their engine acted. And after hearing their story, I told them that their engines might need a valve job performed instead. And lo and behold! Many of them either adjusted the valves or had a professional valve job performed and said that their engines ran like new. I'm not saying this happens with all engines, only the majority of them.
Basic rebuild with no "high-performance" modifications whatsoever, according to the condition of the carburetor, the repair price is minimum $55.00 for parts and labor, plus return shipping & handling. This includes work includes whatever parts and services it may need that's listed below Ê "Old School" Technology High-Performance Carburetor Modifications - Bore out and rework YOUR #26, #28 or #30 Carter/Kohler carburetor for use with Gas, E85 or Methanol fuels - $85.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling. Extra charge if any parts are needed. Work includes what's listed above È plus whatever parts and services it may need that's listed below Ê. ü Bore venturi to a 1" limit (.995" NQS legal size), straight-through design (to match the diameter of throttle bore) or whatever your club's sanctioning rules allow. Read your rules carefully to make sure! I'll need a copy of your club's sanctioning rules regarding the legality of the carburetor, so when I rework it, it'll be legal for use in the class you plan to pull in.
All the carburetors we repair, rebuild or sell come with a 30 day workmanship
warranty and are guaranteed to be free of defects.
|
| Professionally Rebuilt and New Carburetors For Sale - Note: I set the air/fuel adjusters on all carburetors that I rebuild somewhat close so the engine will start and run, but because of the attitude, air temperature and engine design, you'll need to make the final adjustments. And the carburetors that I repair, rebuild or sell come with a 30 day workmanship warranty and are guaranteed to be free of defects. Other carburetor services listed further down in the web site. |
  Carburetors
for Kohler K-series K90 (3.6hp), K91 (4hp) flathead cast iron block engines.
These are plain, stock carburetors that's been completely disassembled,
thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt. All fuel passageways cleared, new parts and
if necessary, a bushing and/or new throttle shaft installed. No performance
modifications are made to these carburetors whatsoever. All carburetors that
we repair, rebuild or sell come with a 30 day workmanship warranty and are
guaranteed to be free of defects. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments
will be initially set on the carburetor to get the engine running, but due
to the altitude (atmospheric pressure) where the engine will be used, the
final adjustments will need to be made by the customer or an experienced
small engine mechanic/technician so the engine will run smooth. Carter carburetor
part # G-220517. NOTE: Not all carburetor numbers are listed with Kohler.
|
Carburetors for Kohler K-series and Magnum models
K141 (6¼hp), K160 (6.6hp), K161 (7hp), K181/M8 (8hp) flathead cast iron
block engines. These are plain, stock carburetors that's been completely
disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt. All fuel passageways cleared,
new parts and if necessary, a bushing and/or new throttle shaft installed.
No performance modifications are made to these carburetors whatsoever. All
carburetors that we repair, rebuild or sell come with a 30 day workmanship
warranty and are guaranteed to be free of defects. The idle speed and air/fuel
mixture adjustments will be initially set on the carburetor to get the engine
running, but due to the altitude (atmospheric pressure) where the engine
will be used, the final adjustments will need to be made by the customer
or an experienced small engine mechanic/technician so the engine will run
smooth. Carter carburetor part #'s B-231739, C-231738, 41 053 01, 41 053
13, 41 053 18 or 41 053 20. NOTE: Not all carburetor numbers are listed with
Kohler.
|
Carburetors for Kohler K-series and Magnum models
K241/M10 (10hp) and K301/M12 (12hp) flathead cast iron block engines. These
are plain, stock carburetors that's been completely disassembled, thoroughly
cleaned and rebuilt. All fuel passageways cleared, new parts and if necessary,
a bushing and/or new throttle shaft installed. No performance modifications
made to these carburetors whatsoever. Comes with choke plate installed. For
gas or E85. Please indicate if for a Kohler "Quiet Line" engine with the
oblong-shaped air filter housing
housing, or for an engine with the
round air filter housing
housing. (The choke lever and air filter housing mounting holes are
different.) All carburetors that we repair, rebuild or sell come with a 30
day workmanship warranty and are guaranteed to be free of defects. The idle
speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be initially set on the carburetor
to get the engine running, but due to the altitude (atmospheric pressure)
where the engine will be used, the final adjustments will need to be made
by the customer or an experienced small engine mechanic/technician so the
engine will run smooth. Kohler carburetor part #'s 47 053 07, 47 053 08,
47 053 12, 47 053 13, 47 053 14, 47 053 24, 47 053 29, 47 053 40, 47 053
62 or 47 053 80. NOTE: Not all carburetor numbers are listed with Kohler.
No numbers are available from any source for the Carter #26, #28 or #30
carburetors.
|
Carburetors for Kohler K-series and Magnum engine
models K321/M14 and (14hp), K341/M16 (16hp) and K361 (18hp OHV). These are
plain, stock carburetors that's been completely disassembled, thoroughly
cleaned and rebuilt. All fuel passageways cleared, new parts and if necessary,
a bushing and/or new throttle shaft installed. No performance modifications
made to these carburetors whatsoever. Comes with choke plate installed.
For gas or E85. Please indicate if for a Kohler "Quiet Line" engine with
the oblong-shaped air filter
housing housing, or for an engine with the
round air filter housing
housing. (The choke lever and air filter housing mounting holes are
different.) All carburetors that we repair, rebuild or sell come with a 30
day workmanship warranty and are guaranteed to be free of defects. The idle
speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be initially set on the carburetor
to get the engine running, but due to the altitude (atmospheric pressure)
where the engine will be used, the final adjustments will need to be made
by the customer or an experienced small engine mechanic/technician so the
engine will run smooth. Kohler carburetor part #'s 45 053 08, 45 053 09,
45 053 12, 45 053 20, 45 053 26, 45 053 68, 45 053 70, 45 053 76, 45 053
77, 47 053 03, 47 053 09, 47 053 15, 47 053 16, 47 053 17, 47 053 20, 47
053 30, 47 053 35, 47 053 41, 47 053 63 or 47 053 78. NOTE: Not all carburetor
numbers are listed with Kohler. No numbers are available from any source
for the Carter #26, #28 or #30 carburetors.
|
Carburetors for
Kohler KT-series and Magnum models KT17, KT17II, KT19, KT19II, M18, MV18,
M20 and MV20 cast iron, flathead twin cylinder engines. These are plain,
stock carburetors that's been completely disassembled, thoroughly cleaned
and rebuilt. All fuel passageways cleared, new parts and if necessary, a
bushing and/or new throttle shaft installed. No performance modifications
made to these carburetors whatsoever. Comes with choke plate installed. Set
up for gas. When ordering, please specify the position of the choke lever.
All carburetors that we repair, rebuild or sell come with a 30 day
workmanship warranty and are guaranteed to be free of defects. The idle speed
and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be initially set on the carburetor
to get the engine running, but due to the altitude (atmospheric pressure)
where the engine will be used, the final adjustments will need to be made
by the customer or an experienced small engine mechanic/technician so the
engine will run smooth. Kohler carburetor part #'s 52 053 09, 52 053 18 or
52 053 28. NOTE: Not all carburetor numbers are listed with Kohler.
|
Fully Adjustable Genuine Original OEM Kohler (not Walbro or
aftermarket) carburetors for Kohler engine models K482 and certain K532 engines.
#26 (1.07" throttle bore) OEM Kohler part # 48 053 07-S.
Fully Adjustable Genuine Original OEM Kohler (not Walbro or aftermarket) carburetors for Kohler engine model K582 and certain K532 engines. #30 (1.2' throttle bore) NOTE: There are no other carburetor that will work well on the Kohler K582 engine. The 48 053 11-S carburetor is designed specifically for the K582 engine and if a carburetor with a smaller throttle bore is used, the engine will not produce as much power. OEM Kohler part # 48 053 11-S.
NOTE: If the throttle shaft holes are worn in a K482, K532 or K582 carburetor, if the holes aren't worn beyond for reuse, I just use 1/4" cold rolled steel to make a new throttle shaft. But if the holes are worn, and being the metal is too thin on one side for installation of a bushing, the holes will need to be enlarged a few thousandths bigger than 1/4", and a steel rod that's slightly bigger than the enlarged holes (for a slip-fit) will need to be fabricated for use as a throttle shaft. I then align and weld or braze the OEM throttle lever to the new shaft. I've performed this type of repair many times with good results. I offer this repair service. If interested, for dimensional measurements, I will need the complete carburetor with the throttle shaft and throttle plate. The repair price per shaft is $75.00 for parts and labor, plus return shipping & handling. |
  Rebuilt, reworked and modified only for high performance use,
#26 Carter/Kohler carburetors. The venturi in these carburetors can be bored
so they'll have either a 7/8", 1" (.995" NQS legal) venturi or a 1.07"
straight-through throttle bore for high rpm operation, setup for gas, E85
or methanol fuels, whatever your club's sanctioning rules allow or whatever
you desire for all-out engine performance. These carburetors are completely
disassembled, then thoroughly cleaned. All fuel passageways cleared, new
parts and a new throttle shaft and/or bushing are installed if necessary.
The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be initially set on
the carburetor to get the engine running, but due to the altitude (atmospheric
pressure) where the engine will be used, the final adjustments will need
to be made by the customer or an experienced small engine mechanic/technician
so the engine will run smooth.
NOTE: These carburetors are designed for use on Stock and Stock-Altered pulling engines with a stock size or an oversize intake valve. Also, a high performance carburetor is designed solely for a high performance engine. Just bolting on a high performance carburetor is not how to gain more power and torque for a stock engine. If your engine is not a high performance engine built to race specs, then it will not benefit from a high performance carburetor whatsoever. These carburetors will not allow a stock "factory-built engine" to produce lots of power just by bolting it it on. Everything in the engine MUST work together to prevent air restriction or a "bottleneck" to slow down air flow. With a bigger carburetor, the engine needs to breath A LOT more air in and out of the combustion chamber. This means the intake and exhaust ports will need to be made bigger, the valves reworked for more airflow, a bigger cam will need to be installed, and the ignition system will need to be up to standards. Also, these carburetors are "built to order." So when placing an order, please specify if your engine has a factory stock size or oversize intake valve, if you want it with a straight-thru throttle bore (no venturi) or a 1" (.995" NQS legal) venturi, if the engine is going to turn around 4,000 rpm or at wide open throttle, and if you want the choke plate/shaft installed. All carburetors that we repair, rebuild or sell come with a 30 day workmanship warranty and are guaranteed to be free of defects.
|
| Rebuilt, reworked and modified only for high performance use,
#30 Carter/Kohler carburetors. The venturi in these carburetors can be bored
so they'll have a 1.2" straight-through throttle bore, setup for gas, E85
or methanol fuels, whatever your club's sanctioning rules allow or whatever
you desire for all-out engine performance. These carburetors are completely
disassembled, then thoroughly cleaned. All fuel passageways cleared, new
parts and a new throttle shaft and/or bushing are installed if necessary.
The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be initially set on
the carburetor to get the engine running, but due to the altitude (atmospheric
pressure) where the engine will be used, the final adjustments will need
to be made by the customer or an experienced small engine mechanic/technician
so the engine will run smooth.
NOTE: These carburetors are designed for use on Stock and Stock-Altered pulling engines with a stock size or an oversize intake valve. Also, a high performance carburetor is designed solely for a high performance engine. Just bolting on a high performance carburetor is not how to gain more power and torque for a stock engine. If your engine is not a high performance engine built to race specs, then it will not benefit from a high performance carburetor whatsoever. These carburetors will not allow a stock "factory-built engine" to produce lots of power just by bolting it it on. Everything in the engine MUST work together to prevent air restriction or a "bottleneck" to slow down air flow. With a bigger carburetor, the engine needs to breath A LOT more air in and out of the combustion chamber. This means the intake and exhaust ports will need to be made bigger, the valves reworked for more airflow, a bigger cam will need to be installed, and the ignition system will need to be up to standards. Also, these carburetors are "built to order." So when placing an order, please specify if your engine has a factory stock size or oversize intake valve, if you want it with a straight-thru throttle bore (no venturi) or a 1" (.995" NQS legal) venturi, if the engine is going to turn around 4,000 rpm or at wide open throttle, and if you want the choke plate/shaft installed. All carburetors that we repair, rebuild or sell come with a 30 day workmanship warranty and are guaranteed to be free of defects.
|
How To Convert a Carter/Kohler Carburetor For High Performance Use At
Any Engine Rpm -
By boring out the venturi (the smallest part of a throttle bore) and reworking the Carter/Kohler carburetor, this will "open up the carburetor" and allow the engine to draw more air into the combustion chamber so it can build up more compression, which will allow it to produce more power. (It'll be like going from a 2-barrel carburetor to a 4-barrel on a V8 automotive engine.) The below Ê have been proven to work very well, and it equals the performance of the popular and high performance "Super Carb" carburetor.
Use a reamer or large drill
bit of a specific diameter to bore the venturi. Enlarge the venturi to either
a 1" limit (.995" NQS legal size), make it a straight-through design (to
match the diameter of the throttle bore) or enlarge it to whatever your club's
sanctioning rules allow. Turn the cutting tool at a slow speed, and apply
a continuous spray of WD-40 while boring the venturi to create a smooth,
slick surface in the throttle bore.
Grind
an angle on the main nozzle. To do this correctly so the engine will accelerate
without hesitation...
Due to normal engine vibrations
at high rpms, plug the original atmospheric vent hole(s) and then drill a
3/32" hole on the side of the carburetor body in alignment with the atmospheric
vent hole passageway in case of gas overflow and/or so the engine won't possibly
run erratically rich on fuel. Or for safety and convenience, leave out the
choke shaft and plate, plug the choke shaft holes, and install a
remote fuel primer kit as described further down in
this web site. Ê
With a bored-out venturi, the
engine will obviously draw more air and require more fuel. To prevent the
engine from starving for fuel at high rpms, offset the level of the float
upward. To adjust it correctly, with the carburetor body turned upside-down,
set the float so it will be downward. This will permit the float to drop
down more as fuel level decreases, allowing the float valve to open further
so more fuel will enter the float bowl. See the drawing to the right.
à
On the throttle shaft, grind
the area opposite the throttle plate until the shaft is about 1/16" thickness
so more air can pass around the shaft at high rpms, but leave the screw holes
"lumped up" to prevent stripping the threads and to maintain strength in
the shaft. See photo to the right.
à
How to Easily Convert the Carter/Kohler #26, #28 or #30 Carburetors to the Bottom High Speed Main Fuel Adjuster - An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this type of conversion. Top of page
The bottom main
fuel adjuster is not an OEM Kohler part and not a modification by Kohler.
This part is an absolute must for a competition pulling engine that runs
at very high rpms or at wide open throttle. It's an add-on feature only for
competition pulling engines to prevent wearing or enlarging the hole in the
main jet by the OEM high speed needle adjuster due to normal engine vibrations
at very high rpms or at wide open throttle engine operations. It provides
no high-performance enhancements whatsoever. The carburetor must be
converted to the bottom adjuster when using this part. Whoever says that
converting an engine for use of this part will enhance the performance of
an engine obviously do not know what they are talking about, or they are
in the business of selling new main jet/nozzles.
Due to normal engine vibrations at high rpms or at wide open throttle operation, the pointed tip on the OEM top high speed main fuel needle adjuster will "vibrate around" inside the lower hole in the main jet/nozzle. The tip of the flexible brass adjuster will wear the jet hole larger, causing the engine to eventually run rich on fuel, and over time as the hole wears larger, will make further lean adjustments impossible. This will happen with gas or alcohol fuels. There is no way to prevent this from happening except convert the carburetor to the bottom main fuel adjuster. This conversion has been proven to function flawlessly for high rpm competition pulling engines. And when the carburetor is reworked with the venturi bored out (straight-through throttle bore design) for high performance use, it equals the performance of the popular "Super Carb" carburetor. (Which I think is a very fine performance carburetor.) Also, if you're wondering if the presence of the OEM high speed adjuster tube will slow the incoming airflow through the "straight through" throttle bore, well, the throttle plate and shaft are about 30% wider than the high speed adjuster tube, even with the throttle shaft ground or machined thin to increase the air flow.
FYI: Converting a carburetor to the bottom adjuster provides no high-performance enhancements whatsoever. It will not help an engine produce more horsepower or torque. It only prevents the hole in the main jet from becoming overly enlarged by the OEM high speed needle adjuster due to normal engine vibrations at very high rpms or at wide open throttle engine operation. When the hole in the main jet becomes too big with use of the top OEM adjuster, another main jet/nozzle will need to be installed in the carburetor every few years depending on how many pulls the tractor (carburetor) have made. Rather the main jet/nozzle can be easily removed with a screwdriver or drilled into and chiseled out. (If not done carefully, damage to the carburetor could result, rendering it useless.) Also, with a bored-out venturi, a 60° angle would need to be precisely ground on the end of the nozzle in exact alignment with the centerline of the throttle bore so engine vacuum will draw fuel through the main jet/nozzle immediately upon acceleration.
How to Convert a Carburetor to the Bottom Main Fuel Adjuster:
Break off the OEM high speed
needle adjuster at the lower idle feed hole with pliers. Bevel the end of
the tube so fuel can flow smoothly past it at high rpms. Make sure inside
of the tube is open and not clogged so the engine will still draw fuel through
the tube so it will idle. Use preferably a damaged adjuster.
NOTE: Absolutely nothing needs to be done to the idle fuel passageways, holes or idle adjusting screw. Just leave them alone and adjust the idle air/fuel mixture screw until the engine idles smoothly.
| If you need any of the items listed below
Ê, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (home/shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell/text). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays),
9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When
speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) Please call before
coming on a weekend so I'll be here waiting for our
arrival.Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. Send
a message with Yahoo Messenger:
|
|
| NOTE: All parts listed here are NEW, unless otherwise stated. I do not sell cheap junk! As a matter of fact, most OEM Kohler parts are made in China now. Kohler owns some of the factories in China that make the parts. And most aftermarket parts are also made by Kohler in China. Kohler just place the part(s) in a generic box and sell them for less money. So when purchasing a genuine OEM Kohler part that comes in a box with the Kohler name on it, you're really just paying more money for the name. | |
 Carburetor-to-Block
Mounting Gasket for Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 and Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetors
used on K90 (3.6hp), K91 (4hp), K141 (6¼hp), K160 (6.6hp), K161 (7hp)
and K181/M8 (8hp) Kohler K-series and Magnum flathead cast iron block engines.
Approximately 1/32" thickness. Kohler part # 210223-S.
|
|
 Air Filter Housing
or Intake Elbow Adapter-to-Carburetor Mounting Gasket for Carter #16, #18,
#20, #22 and Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetors used on K90 (3.6hp), K91 (4hp),
K141 (6¼hp), K160 (6.6hp), K161 (7hp) and K181 (8hp) Kohler K-series
flathead cast iron block engines, and most aluminum block Tecumseh engines.
Approximately 1/32" thickness. Use with two mounting screws. (This is
a Tecumseh part that happens to fit the Carter and Walbro WHL carburetors
perfectly.) Replaces Kohler part # 220537. (Discontinued from Kohler.)
OEM Tecumseh part # 27272A.
|
 Alternate Air Filter Housing
or Intake Elbow Adapter-to-Carburetor Mounting Gasket for Carter #16, #18,
#20, #22 and Walbro WHL 36, #44 carburetors used on K90 (3.6hp), K91 (4hp),
K141 (6¼hp), K160 (6.6hp), K161 (7hp) and K181/M8 (8hp) Kohler K-series
and Magnum flathead cast iron block engines. Use with two or three mounting
screws. Approximately 1/32" thickness. Kohler part # 41 041 11-S.
|
 Carburetor-to-Block Mounting
Gasket for Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors
used on Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241/M10 (10hp), K301/M12
(12hp), K330/K331 (12½hp), K321/M14 (14hp), K341/M16 (16hp) and K361
(18hp OHV) and twin cylinder cast iron block engines. Approximately 1/32"
thickness. For general yard work. Approximately 1/32" thickness. Kohler part
# 271030-S.
|
 Carburetor-to-Block
Heat Isolator Mounting Gasket
for Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors
used on Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241/M10 (10hp), K301/M12
(12hp), K330/K331 (12½hp), K321/M14 (14hp) and K341/M16 (16hp).
Approximately 3/16" thickness. Has gaskets adhered to either side of heat
resistant
phenolic
resin center. Kohler part # 47 049 01-S. NOTE: This particular
gasket prevents engine heat from being transferred to the carburetor. Along
with the heat isolator fuel pump mounting
gasket, the cooler fuel
atomizes
better before entering combustion chamber to improve engine performance.
Ideal for heavy yard/garden work and/or stock competition pulling when rules
require that carburetor cannot be mounted with any kind of
extension.
|
 Air Cleaner Base-to-Carburetor
Mounting Gasket for Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHG #52, #60,
#64 carburetors used on Kohler K-series engine models K241 (10hp), K301 (12hp),
K321 (14hp), K330/K331 (12½hp), K341 (16hp), K361 (18hp OHV) and twin
cylinder cast iron block engines with the
round air filter housing
assembly. Use with three mounting screws. Approximately 1/32" thickness.
Kohler part # 275341-S.
|
 Air Cleaner Base-to-Carburetor
Mounting Gasket for Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHG #52, #60,
#64 carburetors used on Kohler K-series "Quiet Line" and Magnum engine models
K241/M10 (10hp), K301/M12 (12hp), K321/M14 (14hp), K341/M16 (16hp) and K361
(18hp OHV) with the oblong
air filter housing assembly. Use with three mounting screws.
Approximately 1/32" thickness. OEM Kohler part #'s 45 041 07-S, 52 041 12-S.
|
 Intake Manifold-to-Cylinder
Mounting Gasket for Kohler flathead twin cylinder engine models KT17, KT17II,
KT19, KT19II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Approximately 1/32" thickness.
Kohler part # 52 041 09-S.
|
 Exhaust Manifold-to-Cylinder
Mounting Gasket for Kohler flathead twin cylinder engine models KT17, KT17II,
KT19, KT19II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Kohler part # 52 041 14-S.
|
 Intake Manifold-to-Block
Mounting Gasket for Kohler flathead twin cylinder engine models K482, K532
and K582. OEM Kohler part # 48 052 02-S.
|
 Exhaust Manifold-to-Block
Mounting Gasket for Kohler flathead twin cylinder engine models K482, K532
and K582. OEM Kohler part # 25 041 11-S.
|
 Air Intake Elbow
Adapter-to-Carburetor Mounting Gasket for Kohler flathead twin cylinder engine
models KT17, KT17II, KT19, KT19II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20 and
certain K321 and K341 engines. Approximately 1/32" thickness. OEM Kohler
part # 25 041 06-S.
|
 Air Filter Housing-to-Elbow
Adapter Mounting Gasket for Kohler flathead twin cylinder engine models KT17,
KT17II, KT19, KT19II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Approximately
1/32" thickness. OEM Kohler part # 277093-S.
|
 Carburetor Overhaul Kit for
Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 and Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors used
on Kohler K-series and early Magnum single and twin cylinder flathead cast
iron block engines. Includes
Viton-tip
fuel inlet float valve and brass seat, bowl O-ring seal, fuel baffle splash
shield (goes between O-ring and float bowl) bottom fiber washer and float
hinge pin. All parts made of alcohol-resistant
neoprene
rubber. (Originally designed and made by the
Carter
Carburetor Corporation.) Kohler part # 25 757 02-S.
|
 Carburetor Overhaul Kit
with Viton-tip
fuel inlet float valve for Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors
that's used on Kohler Magnum models M8 (8hp), M10 (10hp), M12 (12hp), M14
(14hp), M16 (16hp), MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20 single- and twin-cylinder
flathead cast iron block engines. Includes carburetor mounting gasket.
|
 Viton-tip fuel inlet float valve and brass seat for Carter
#16, #18, #20, #22 and Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors. Not available
separately from Kohler. Kohler part # 25 757 01-S.
|
 Viton-tip fuel inlet float valve for Walbro WHL #36, #44
or WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors. Not available separately from Kohler. OEM
Walbro part # 82-529-7.
|
 Solid Brass Fuel Inlet Float
Needle Valve for Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 and Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30
carburetors. These last longer with methanol fuel because they don't wear
as much as the
Viton-tip
needles. Use with the OEM Kohler 3/8" hex brass seat. Use a small hammer
to lightly tap the needle into the seat to form a sealing surface. Originally
designed and made by the
Carter
Carburetor Corporation, but discontinued many years ago.
|
 3/8" Diameter Aluminum Welch
Expansion Plug. Replaces welch plug in most Carter/Kohler and Walbro carburetors.
(Originally designed and made by the
Carter
Carburetor Corporation.) Not available from Kohler.
|
 Float Bowl O-Ring
Seal. 2-3/8" diameter. Rectangular cross-section. Fits Carter #16, #18, #20,
#22 and Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors used on the Kohler K-series
and early Magnum single cylinder 4hp-16hp, 18hp OHV single- and twin-cylinder
flathead cast iron block engines. Also fits Tecumseh engines with Carter
or Walbro carburetors (large bowl). Made of alcohol resistant
neoprene
rubber. Included in overhaul kit above È.
(Originally designed and made by the
Carter
Carburetor Corporation.) Kohler part # 200375-S.
|
|
 Fuel Baffle Splash
Shield. Fits all Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 and Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30
carburetors used on the Kohler K-series and early Magnum single cylinder
4hp-16hp, 18hp OHV single- and twin-cylinder flathead cast iron block engines.
Goes between bowl seal and float bowl; prevents splashing fuel from entering
into throttle bore through the atmospheric vent hole. Made of alcohol resistant
neoprene
rubber. Included in overhaul kit above È.
(Originally designed and made by the
Carter
Carburetor Corporation.) Kohler part # 25 041 02-S.
|
|
 Float bowl for
Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors used on Kohler K-series engine models
K90 (3.6hp), K91 (4hp), K141 (6¼hp), K160 (6.6hp), K161 (7hp) and K181
(8hp). Available in aluminum only. Dimensions: 2-3/8"
o.d. x 1-1/4" height x 5/16" bottom hole. (Originally designed and made by
the
Carter
Carburetor Corporation.) OEM Kohler part # 200418-S.
Float bowls for Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors used on Kohler K-series
engine models K241 (10hp), K301 (12hp), K330/K331 (12½hp), K321 (14hp),
K341 (16hp), K361 (18hp OHV), KT17. KT17II, KT19, KT19II and KT21.
|
|
 Float Bowl Retaining
Bolt. 5/16" diameter threads x 1/2" head. Fits Carter #16, #18, #20, #22
carburetors. Comes with sealing fiber washer.
Float Bowl Retaining Bolts. 3/8" diameter threads. Fits Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors, and Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors.
|
|
 5/16" i.d. Float
Bowl Retaining Bolt Fiber Sealing Washer. Fits Carter #16, #18, #20, #22,
Briggs & Stratton, Mikuni, Tecumseh and other small carburetors. Not
available from Kohler, and the 5/16" size is not included in the Carter/Kohler
carburetor overhaul kit. Replaces Tecumseh part # 632673, 640042.
|
|
 Brass Floats for
all Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 and Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors
used on the Kohler K-series, early Magnum single cylinder 4hp-16hp, 18hp
OHV single- and twin-cylinder flathead cast iron block engines. (Originally
designed and made by the
Carter
Carburetor Corporation.) Dimensions: 15/16" i.d. x 1-15/16" o.d. x 5/8"
tall. Kohler part # 25 757 03-S. NOTE: ALL brass floats need to
be adjusted when installed. They don't come preset. To set the float level,
with the carburetor turned upside down, set the float parallel with the
carburetor body. To adjust the float level, use a small flat screwdriver
to gently bend the tang that contacts the float valve. Then make sure that
the float moves up and down freely without binding.
|
|
 Plastic Floats
for Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors used on the Kohler's
newer Magnum M8-M16 single- and M18, M20 twin-cylinder cast iron block flathead
engines.
|
|
 Float Pins for
Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 and Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30, Briggs & Stratton,
Lawn Boy and Tecumseh carburetors. Dimensions: .090" diameter x .881" length.
Float Pins for Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors. Dimensions: .090" diameter x 1.125" length.
|
|
 Float Stabilizer
Spring for Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors for pulling engines that
run well above 4,000 rpms or at wide open throttle. Lessens chance of float
bouncing due to normal single cylinder engine vibration at high rpms, which
could cause momentary fuel flooding, starvation and/or fuel spillage out
of atmospheric vent hole. Not required for general yard use or pulling engines
that operate around 4,000 rpms. OEM Kohler part # 237917-S.
|
|
| High Speed
Bottom Main Fuel Adjuster -
The bottom main fuel adjuster is not an OEM Kohler part and not a modification by Kohler. It's an add-on feature only for competition pulling engines to prevent wearing or enlarging the hole in the main jet by the OEM high speed needle adjuster due to normal engine vibrations at very high rpms or at wide open throttle engine operations. It provides no engine performance enhancements whatsoever. The carburetor must be converted to the bottom adjuster when using this part. Fits all Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors used on the Kohler K-series and early Magnum single cylinder 10hp-16hp, 18hp OHV single-cylinder cast iron block flathead engines.
|
|
| Coming Soon! A-1 Miller's own CNC-machined
brass main jet/nozzles. Projected price: $8.00 each, plus shipping &
handing. As soon as I have this part available, it'll be posted
here.
|
 Fixed High Speed Main Jets
for Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors. 10-32 NF threads.
NOTE: Need numbers off of carburetor to match correct size hole in main
jet for engine the carburetor is installed on.
Available Jet Sizes and Prices:
|
 Idle Fuel Mixture
Adjuster Screws for Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors used on Kohler
engine models K90 (3.6hp), K91 (4hp), K141 (6¼hp), K160 (6.6hp), K161
(7hp) and K181 (8hp). Also for Carter/Kohler #28, #30 carburetors with 1.17"
or 1.2" throttle bore used on Kohler engine models K321 (14hp), K341 (16hp)
and K361 (18hp OHV). (Originally designed and made by the
Carter
Carburetor Corporation.) Short step tip. Dimensions: .865" overall length
x .200" tip length x 7-40 threads.
Important - Please check numbers on carburetor before ordering. If in doubt about superseded numbers for any particular carburetor, refer to Kohler Engines Parts Lookup (requires Internet Explorer.) Mark "I accept", scroll down, click on "Enter as Guest" and enter part number in upper right corner. Use the newest superseded part number available, click on "where used" in the pop-up dialog box. A list engine models and spec numbers should be displayed.
 High Speed Main Fuel Mixture
Needle Adjuster Screw for certain Carter/Kohler #28, #30 carburetors used
on Kohler K-series and early Magnum single cylinder engine models K321 (14hp),
K341 (16hp) and K361 (18hp OHV). Has two holes midway
and one lower hole on stem. Designed specifically for Kohler carburetors
with following numbers stamped on mounting flange: 4174S (Carter), 45 053
08, 45 053 12, 45 053 26, 45 053 68, 45 053 70, 45 053 76, 45 053 77 and
47 053 11. Important - Please check numbers on carburetor before ordering.
If in doubt about superseded numbers for any particular carburetor, refer
to Kohler Engines
Parts Lookup (requires
Internet Explorer.) Mark "I accept", scroll down, click on "Enter as
Guest" and enter part number in upper right corner. Use the newest superseded
part number available, click on "where used" in the pop-up dialog box. A
list engine models and spec numbers should be displayed. No numbers are available
from any source for the Carter #26, #28 or #30 carburetors. Discontinued
from Kohler. Kohler part # 45 103 01-S.
High Speed Main Fuel Mixture
Needle Adjuster Screw for Carter/Kohler #26, 1.07" throttle bore carburetors
used on Kohler engine models K482 (18hp), K532 (20hp) and K582 (23hp). Each
has no holes midway and one lower hole on stem. Designed specifically for
Kohler carburetors with following numbers stamped on mounting flange: 47
053 03, 47 053 09, 47 053 15, 47 053 16, 47 053 17, 47 053 20, 47 053 30,
47 053 41, 47 053 63 and 47 053 78. Important - Please check numbers on
carburetor before ordering. If in doubt about superseded numbers for any
particular carburetor, refer to
Kohler Engines
Parts Lookup (requires
Internet Explorer.) Mark "I accept", scroll down, click on "Enter as
Guest" and enter part number in upper right corner. Use the newest superseded
part number available, click on "where used" in the pop-up dialog box. A
list engine models and spec numbers should be displayed. No numbers are available
from any source for the Carter #26, #28 or #30 carburetors.
 High Speed Main Fuel Mixture
Needle Adjuster Screw for Kohler #26, 1.07" throttle bore carburetor used
on Kohler twin cylinder engine models KT17, KT17II, KT19, KT19II, KT21, MV16,
M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Has four holes midway and one lower hole on stem.
Designed specifically for Kohler carburetors with following numbers stamped
on mounting flange: 52 053 01, 52 053 02, 52 053 09, 52 053 10, 52 053 11,
52 053 16, 52 053 18 and 52 053 28. Important - Please check numbers on
carburetor before ordering. If in doubt about superseded numbers for any
particular carburetor, refer to
Kohler Engines
Parts Lookup (requires
Internet Explorer.) Mark "I accept", scroll down, click on "Enter as
Guest" and enter part number in upper right corner. Use the newest superseded
part number available, click on "where used" in the pop-up dialog box. A
list engine models and spec numbers should be displayed. Discontinued from
Kohler. OEM Kohler part # 52 103 01-S.
|
|
|
A worn throttle shaft is the #1 cause
of most engines wearing out and burning oil prematurely. If a carburetor
has a worn throttle shaft, this will create a vacuum leak and the engine
will idle poorly, if at all at times. Not to mention the engine will also
draw in dirty air, causing wear on the valve faces/seats and piston rings,
and engine will burn oil. More than .010" of play is considered too much
for throttle shaft wear. Plus, at operating running speeds (3,600 rpm), the
extra air will cause the engine to run lean on fuel, which will overheat
the combustion chamber and cause the cylinder head to warp (blow a head gasket)
and the piston and rings to wear prematurely, eventually resulting in severe
engine wear and excessive oil burning. Along with regular maintenance, repair
of a worn throttle shaft is required to help an engine last a long time.
The most accurate way to check for amount of wear is with a
dial indicator.
Furthermore, Carter/Kohler and Walbro carburetors don't come with a throttle shaft bushing installed from the factory. A bushing (see below Ê) must be installed when the throttle shaft is worn, or a bushing and new throttle shaft both must be installed. If there's a counterbore where the throttle shaft is, a flat bronze bushing can be installed, and if it's in good condition, the original throttle shaft can be reused. But if there's no counterbore, the carburetor body will need to be precision aligned-bored for installation of a bronze sleeve bushing, and chances are, a new throttle shaft will also need to be installed. Special machining of the carburetor body is required for the sleeve bushing. Return To Previous Paragraph |
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Throttle
Shaft Bushing for Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors with a counterbore
that's used on Kohler engine models K90 (3.6hp), K91 (4hp), K141 (6¼hp),
K160 (6.6hp), K161 (7hp) and K181/M8 (8hp), as well as other makes and models
of engines that use the Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetor. Dimensions:
.213" i.d. x .407" o.d. x 1/8" height. NOTE: Some very early Carter
carburetors have a smaller diameter throttle shaft, which is .213" or #3
[drill bit]) size. The bushing offered here is made for the smaller shaft.
If a carburetor has the bigger 7/32" (.219") shaft, once installed, the bushing
will need to be carefully drilled or reamed larger to 7/32". Also, some later
Carter carburetors do not have the counterbore to accept this bushing. If
there's no counterbore, then if the shaft hole is not severely worn, a new
throttle shaft (see below Ê) can be
installed.
Go here
to learn how to professionally remove Carter/Kohler throttle or choke plate
retaining screws. But if the shaft hole is severely worn, it will
need to be enlarged slightly to match an oversized fabricated throttle shaft.
The lever will need to be ground off the off shaft and welded onto the new
shaft. I offer this service, too. (see below
Ê) No Kohler part number. An
innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this part
or services.
Installation Instructions: If it isn't severely worn, the original throttle shaft can be reused with the above È bushings. The bushing makes contact with the upper unworn 1/8" area on the shaft. To install the bushing, remove the two small brass screws that secures the throttle plate to the shaft, then remove the shaft from the carburetor body. Clean out the counterbore and depending on the size of carburetor, use a 3/16" or 1/4" bolt and small hammer to squarely drive the bushing into the counterbore, and then reinstall the shaft. Additional Note: Usually the short, flat bronze bushing will snug up a worn throttle shaft. The bushing should last a long time, too. If the bushing fits somewhat loose in the counterbore, tap the sides of the counterbore with a hammer to close it up slightly. In other words, make the counterbore slightly oblong or egg-shaped. But don't mash the metal in too much. Just a slight tap on either side should do. But the newer Walbro carburetors have no counterbore for the bushing. Therefore, sometimes the throttle shaft hole in the carburetor body will wear, too. When this happens, installing a new shaft won't fix the problem. The hole must be accurately bored and a bronze sleeve bushing will need to be installed with a new shaft, or if the hole is not worn, sometimes the original shaft can be reused. But if the original shaft is worn and a new throttle shaft isn't available for a particular carburetor, then one must be machined from scratch. And if necessary, a slightly oversized shaft can be installed instead of the original diameter shaft. I can do this for $50.00 parts and labor, plus return shipping & handling.
Polyurethane Foam Seals for 1/4" diameter throttle shafts used in Carter/Kohler #26, #28 or #30 and Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors. NOTE: Apply clean motor oil to foam seal before installing to trap dust and dirt. Seal is compressed between throttle lever and carburetor body or installed bushing. Lessens chance of dust and dirt from wearing throttle shaft and/or upper hole in carburetor body or bushing. Click here to learn how to professionally remove Carter/Kohler throttle or choke plate retaining screws without breaking them off.
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 Remote Throttle Control
Cable. All heavy duty metal construction. Conduit: 36-1/2"; Inner wire: 41-1/4";
Wire travel: 1-3/4".
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 Remote Push/Pull Choke Control
Cable. Durable plastic construction w/metal conduit. Conduit: 40-1/2"; Inner
wire: 42-1/4"; Wire travel: 2".
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| Coming
Soon! A-1 Miller's own CNC-machined mild steel throttle and choke shafts
for all Carter, Kohler and Walbro carburetors mentioned in my web sites.
(Will come without lever; reuse old lever - align and weld or braze to new
shaft.) Projected price, any shaft: $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
As soon as I have these parts available, they'll be posted here.
I will also have the ability to CNC-machine throttle and choke shafts for other makes and models of carburetors, too. For dimensional purposes, I will need the carburetor, old throttle or choke shaft and lever. |
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 Throttle Shaft
with lever attached, screws and lock washers for Walbro WHL #36 and Carter
#16, #18 carburetors used on Kohler K-series engine models K90 (3.6hp), K91
(4hp) cast iron block flathead engines. (Made by Walbro now, but was originally
designed and made by the
Carter
Carburetor Corporation.) Steel lever with 7/32" diameter hardened bronze
shaft. Includes everything shown in picture. Can be used with OEM Carter
throttle plate or the 25 146 05-S (Walbro) throttle plate below
Ê. NOTE: Apply clean motor oil or
automotive grease on shaft before installing for smooth throttle action and
less wear to shaft, bushing and/or carburetor body.
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 Throttle Shaft
with lever attached, screws and lock washers for Walbro WHL #44 and Carter
#20, #22 carburetors used on Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K141
(6¼hp), K160 (6.6hp), K161 (7hp) and K181/M8 (8hp) cast iron block flathead
engines. (Made by Walbro now, but was originally designed and made by the
Carter
Carburetor Corporation.) Steel lever with 7/32" diameter hardened bronze
shaft. Includes everything shown in picture. Can be used with OEM Carter
throttle plate or the 25 146 05-S (Walbro) throttle plate below
Ê. NOTE: Apply clean motor oil or
automotive grease on shaft before installing for smooth throttle action and
less wear to shaft, bushing and/or carburetor body.
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 New-Style Throttle
Shaft with lever attached, screws and lock washers for Walbro WHG #52 and
Carter/Kohler #26 carburetors with a 1.07" throttle bore used on Kohler K-series
and Magnum engine models K241/M10 (10hp), K301/M12 (12hp) and K330/K331
(12½hp) cast iron block flathead engines. (Originally designed and made
by Kohler, but made by Walbro now.) Steel lever with 1/4" diameter hardened
bronze shaft. Includes everything shown in picture. Because of the 9/16"
screw hole spacing, this shaft is best to be used with the 25 146 02-S (Walbro)
throttle plate below Ê. NOTE: Apply
clean motor oil or automotive grease on shaft before installing for smooth
throttle action and less wear to shaft, bushing and/or carburetor body.
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 New-Style Throttle
Shaft with lever attached, screws and lock washers for Walbro WHG #60, #64
and Carter/Kohler #26, #28 or #30 carburetors with a 1.07", 1.17" or 1.2"
throttle bore used on Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241/M10 (10hp),
K301/M12 (12hp), K330/K331 (12½hp), K321/M14 (14hp), K341/M16 (16hp)
and K361 (18hp OHV). (Originally designed and made by Kohler, but made by
Walbro now.) Steel lever with 1/4" diameter hardened bronze shaft. Includes
everything shown in picture. Because of the 3/4" screw hole spacing, this
shaft is best to be used with 47 146 10-S (Walbro) throttle plate below
Ê or OEM Carter/Kohler #26, #28 or #30
throttle plates (11/16" hole spacing) with holes in plate elongated. NOTE:
Apply clean motor oil or automotive grease on shaft before installing for
smooth throttle action and less wear to shaft, bushing and/or carburetor
body.
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  "New Style" Throttle Shaft Conversion/Upgrade Kit for older
Carter #26, #28 or #30 carburetors. When the cast aluminum clamp that fastens
on the throttle shaft for the throttle lever cracks or breaks, or if the
throttle shaft is severely worn, the carburetor can be converted to the new-style
throttle shaft and lever. Includes everything shown in picture. NOTE:
The protruding pin will need to be ground flush with top of carburetor body
and a 9/64" or #29 (drill bit size) hole will need to be drilled through
carburetor body and 8-32 NC threads cut for installation of the idle speed
adjusting screw. And apply clean motor oil or automotive grease on shaft
before installing for smooth throttle action and less wear to shaft, bushing
or carburetor body.
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  NOTE: If an OEM Kohler throttle
lever has a ball/stud pressed on it, and if the same throttle linkage is
going to be reused, the ball/stud will need to be transferred to the new
lever by grinding away the flared metal underneath and then place a small
bead of weld or brazing under the ball/stud to secure it in place on the
new lever. Or a new ball w/threaded stud that's listed in this web site can
be purchased from me. Also, the holes in the OEM Carter/Kohler [steel] throttle
plates, which have an 11/16" spacing for the #26, #28, #30 carburetors, will
need to be slightly elongated with a
Dremel or equivalent
small grinder to match the holes in the 47 144 36-S Walbro throttle shaft,
which have a 3/4" spacing. And when installing either throttle plates, with
the carburetor float area facing downward, install the plate with the stamped
numbers or letter(s) facing outward and toward the right of the throttle
bore (as shown above È). And use split
lock washers with throttle and choke plate screws to prevent screws from
loosening and possibly becoming lodged in intake valve or on top of piston,
which could cause severe damage. This is why I recommend using them. Liquid
threadlocker is not required with lock washers. |
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 Throttle Shaft
w/Prominent Raised Lever for Walbro WHG #52 or Kohler #26 carburetors used
on Kohler horizontal shaft engine models KT17, KT17II, KT19, KT19II, KT21,
M18 and M20. Steel lever with 1/4" diameter hardened bronze shaft. Includes
everything shown in picture. Lever has a 3/16" hole for throttle bushing/linkage.
(Originally designed and made by Kohler, but made by Walbro now.) OEM Kohler
part # 52 144 22-S.
Throttle Shaft w/Slightly Raised Lever for Walbro WHG #52 or Kohler #26 carburetors used on Kohler vertical shaft engine models MV16, MV18 and MV20. Steel lever with 1/4" diameter hardened bronze shaft. Includes everything shown in picture. Lever has a 3/16" hole for throttle bushing/linkage. (Originally designed and made by Kohler, but made by Walbro now.) OEM Kohler part # 52 144 25-S.
NOTE: Each throttle shaft to be used with 25 146 02-S (Walbro) throttle plate below Ê. Apply clean motor oil or automotive grease on shaft before installing for smooth throttle action and less wear to shaft, bushing and/or carburetor body. |
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 Throttle plates
for Walbro WHL #36, #44 and Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors with .822"
diameter throttle bore. (Originally designed and made by the
Carter
Carburetor Corporation.)
Throttle plate for Walbro WHG #52 and Carter/Kohler #26 carburetors with 1.07" diameter throttle bore. 9/16" screw hole spacing. To be used with Walbro 47 144 35-S throttle shaft above È.
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| Various Small Screws for Kohler Engines -
Phillips Head,
Phillips Head,
Many other small screw sizes available at reasonable prices. |
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Quality High Speed
Steel Taps -
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|
| Coming
Soon! A-1 Miller's own CNC-machined mild steel throttle and choke shafts
for all Carter, Kohler and Walbro carburetors mentioned in my web sites.
(Will come without lever; reuse old lever - align and weld or braze to new
shaft.) Projected price, any shaft: $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
As soon as I have these parts available, they'll be posted here.
I will also have the ability to CNC-machine throttle and choke shafts for other makes and models of carburetors, too. For dimensional purposes, I will need the carburetor, old throttle or choke shaft and lever. |
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Choke shaft
w/cable-controlled lever for Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 and Walbro WHL #36,
#44 carburetors used on Kohler engine models K90 (3.6hp), K91, K141, K160/K161,
K181 and M8. (Made by Walbro now, but was originally designed and made by
the
Carter
Carburetor Corporation.) Steel lever with hardened bronze shaft. Overall
shaft length: 2-1/2". The 1-7/8" long choke shaft, which was made by Carter,
is no longer available. L) Comes with screws
and split lock washers. NOTE: Apply clean motor oil or automotive grease
on shaft before installing for smooth choke operation and less wear to shaft
and/or carburetor body.
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Choke shaft
w/hand-operated or cable-controlled angled lever for Carter #16, #18, #20,
#22 and Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetors used on Kohler engine models K90
(3.6hp), K91, K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8. (Made by Walbro now, but was
originally designed and made by the
Carter
Carburetor Corporation.) Steel lever with hardened bronze shaft. Overall
shaft length: 2-1/16". The 1-7/8" long choke shaft, which was made by Carter,
is no longer available. L) Comes with screws
and split lock washers. NOTE: Apply clean motor oil or automotive grease
on shaft before installing for smooth choke operation and less wear to shaft
and/or carburetor body.
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Choke shaft
w/cable-controlled, swivel screw clamp lever for Carter #16, #18, #20, #22
and Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetors used on Kohler engine models K90 (3.6hp),
K91, K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8. Steel lever with hardened bronze shaft.
Overall shaft length: 2-1/2". (The 1-7/8" long choke shaft, which was originally
made by Carter, is no longer available. L)
Steel lever with hardened bronze shaft. Comes with screws and split lock
washers. NOTE: Apply clean motor oil or automotive grease on shaft before
installing for smooth choke operation and less wear to shaft and/or carburetor
body.
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Choke shaft w/short,
cable-controlled lever for Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHG #52,
#60, #64 carburetors with the
round air filter housing
assembly. (Made by Walbro now, but was originally designed and made by
the
Carter
Carburetor Corporation.) Steel lever with hardened bronze shaft. Overall
shaft length: 2-5/8". Steel lever with 1/4" diameter hardened bronze shaft.
Comes with screws and split lock washers. NOTE: The choke shaft for
Carter/Kohler carburetors have been discontinued. This one is made by Walbro
and designed for Walbro choke plates in a Walbro carburetor. If used in a
Carter/Kohler carburetor, the holes in the Carter/Kohler choke plate may
need to be elongated to align with the threaded holes in this shaft. And
apply clean motor oil or automotive grease on shaft before installing for
smooth choke operation and less wear to shaft and/or carburetor body.
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Choke shaft w/short,
angled, hand-operated or cable-controlled lever for Carter/Kohler #26, #28,
#30 and Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors with the
round air filter housing
assembly. (Made by Walbro now, but was originally designed and made by
the
Carter
Carburetor Corporation.) Steel lever with 1/4" diameter hardened bronze
shaft. Overall shaft length: 2-5/8". Comes with screws and split lock washers.
NOTE: The choke shaft for Carter/Kohler carburetors have been discontinued.
This one is made by Walbro and designed for Walbro choke plates in a Walbro
carburetor. If used in a Carter/Kohler carburetor, the holes in the Carter/Kohler
choke plate may need to be elongated to align with the threaded holes in
this shaft. And apply clean motor oil or automotive grease on shaft before
installing for smooth choke operation and less wear to shaft and/or carburetor
body.
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Choke shaft w/long,
straight, hand-operated or cable-controlled lever for Kohler #26, #30 and
Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors with the "Quiet Line"
oblong air filter housing
assembly. Steel lever with 1/4" diameter hardened bronze shaft. Overall
shaft length: 2-5/8". Comes with screws and split lock washers. NOTE:
The choke shaft for Carter/Kohler carburetors have been discontinued. This
one is made by Walbro and designed for Walbro choke plates in a Walbro
carburetor. If used in a Carter/Kohler carburetor, the holes in the Carter/Kohler
choke plate may need to be elongated to align with the threaded holes in
this shaft. And apply clean motor oil or automotive grease on shaft before
installing for smooth choke operation and less wear to shaft and/or carburetor
body.
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Choke Shaft
w/"Downward Swing" Lever (most common) for Kohler engine models KT17, KT19,
KT19II, M18, M20 with Kohler #26 or Walbro WHG #52 carburetor. (Originally
designed and made by Kohler, but made by Walbro now.) Steel lever with 1/4"
diameter hardened bronze shaft. Overall shaft length: 2-5/8". For carburetors
with following numbers stamped on mounting flange: 52 053 01, 52 053 09,
52 053 20, 52 053 26, 52 053 28, 52 053 31, 52 053 36, 52 053 37, 52 053
38, 52 053 46, 52 053 50, 52 053 52, 52 053 56, 52 053 58, 52 053 63, 52
053 63, 52 053 66. Comes with screws and split lock washers. NOTE: The
choke shaft for the KT-series Kohler carburetors have been discontinued.
This one is made by Walbro and designed for Walbro choke plates in a Walbro
carburetor. If used in a Kohler carburetor, the holes in the Kohler choke
plate may need to be elongated to align with the threaded holes in this shaft.
And apply clean motor oil or automotive grease on shaft before installing
for smooth choke operation and less wear to shaft and/or carburetor body.
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|
 Professionally
machine YOUR carburetor body and install bronze sleeve bushings for worn
choke shaft holes and reinstall original choke shaft (if not excessively
worn).
OEM Kohler Choke Shaft Repair Kits -
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 Choke Plate for
Kohler engine models K90 (3.6hp), K91 (4hp), K141 (6¼hp), K160 (6.6hp),
K161 (7hp) and K181/M8 (8hp) with Walbro WHL #36, #44 or Carter #16, #18,
#20, #22 carburetors.
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| IMPORTANT: For the K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 choke plates below Ê - If the wrong choke plate is used or mismatched with any particular size engine, due to the size and number of holes in the plate, the engine may become flooded too easily, resulting in either hard starting or a fouled spark plug. Or the engine may not receive enough fuel, resulting in hard starting. (None of these will happen with my remote fuel primer kit.) Also, Walbro and Carter/Kohler choke plates are not interchangeable. | |
 Choke Plate for
Kohler engine models K241/M10 (10hp) or K301/M12 (12hp) with Walbro WHG #52
carburetor.
|
 OEM Kohler Choke Plates
for engine models K241/M10 (10hp) or K301/M12 (12hp) with Carter/Kohler #26
carburetors. Used and in excellent condition. (Plate with valve was originally
designed and made by the
Carter
Carburetor Corporation.) No Kohler part number available; no longer available
from Kohler.
|
 Choke Plate for Kohler engine
models K321/M14 (14hp) with Walbro WHG #60, #64 carburetors.
|
 OEM Kohler Choke Plate for
engine models K321/M14 (14hp) with Carter/Kohler #28 or #30 carburetors.
Used and in excellent condition. No Kohler part number available; no longer
available from Kohler.
|
 Choke Plate for Kohler engine
models K341/M16 (16hp) and K361 (18hp OHV) with Walbro WHG #60, #64 carburetors.
|
 OEM Kohler Choke Plate for
engine models K341/M16 (16hp) and K361 (18hp OHV) with Carter/Kohler #30
carburetors. Used and in excellent condition. No Kohler part number available;
no longer available from Kohler.
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Choke Friction (Detent)
Ball for all Carter/Kohler #16, #18, #20, #22, #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHL
#36, #44 carburetors. 1/8" diameter. NOTE: The ball and spring is for
hand-operation of the choke only, such as for a generator/welder engine.
If choke is cable-operated, such as in a tractor, then the ball and spring
isn't needed.
Choke Friction (Detent) Ball for Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors. 5/32" diameter. NOTE: The ball and spring is for hand-operation of the choke only, such as for a generator/welder engine. If choke is cable-operated, such as in a tractor, then the ball and spring isn't needed.
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Choke Friction
(Detent) Compression Spring for Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetors. Dimensions:
1/8" diameter x 5/16" long. NOTE: The 1/8" diameter x 1/2" long spring
for the Carter and Kohler #16, #18, #20, #22, #26, #28, #30 carburetors have
been discontinued by Kohler. This 1/8" diameter x 5/16" long spring can be
used in these carburetors with an 1/8" diameter x 3/16" long solid spacer
placed under spring. (An 1/8" diameter x 3/16" long Allen set screw
makes an excellent spacer.) And the ball and spring is for hand-operation
of the choke only, such as for a generator/welder engine. If choke is
cable-operated, such as in a tractor, then the ball and spring isn't
needed.
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|
 Remote Carburetor
Fuel Primer Kit. Safe to use and works flawlessly! The primer bulb system
squirts gas through the main jet/nozzle, causing a slight flooding condition
in the carburetor throttle bore so a cold or hard-to-start engine will start
easier. Just a couple of pushes of the bulb and the engine should be ready
to start. Cannot over-flood an engine like the choke plate can. Replaces
the choke plate/shaft. For ordinary garden tractors, garden pulling tractors
or virtually any type of small engine lawn and garden equipment. Works with
pump gas or alcohol fuels. Kit includes primer bulb assembly w/mounting nut,
3' of 1/8" i.d. clear vinyl hose and 1/8" x 1" brass tube.
Click here for installation instructions. An
innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this
kit.
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 Throttle or Choke
Conduit Cable Snap-On Clip/Clamp. Fastens to L-shaped extended bracket on
engine block. OEM Kohler part # 235603-S.
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|
 U-Shaped Throttle/Choke
Cable Conduit Clamp. Use to secure 3/16" or 7/32" diameter cable conduit
to throttle or choke bracket or bundle of wires along frame for safe routing.
Zinc-plated steel. Requires 3/16" mounting screw. Can be used in place of
clamp above È.
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 Universal Loop-Type
Throttle/Choke Cable Conduit/Wire Clamp. Use to secure 3/16" or 7/32" diameter
cable conduit to throttle or choke bracket or bundle of wires along frame
for safe routing. 16 gauge, zinc-plated steel. Requires 3/16" mounting screw.
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 1/4" Diameter Throttle
Cable/Wire Swivel Kit. For securing inner throttle cable or wire to governor
lever or throttle lever on carburetor. Kohler part # 48 755 10-S.
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 V-Shaped/Coiled
Governor Spring for Kohler K-series model K141, K160, K161, K181 engines,
and various Magnum M8 engines. OEM Kohler part # 232617-S.
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 Extension Governor
Spring for various Kohler Magnum model M8 (8hp) engines. OEM Kohler part
# 41 089 12-S.
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 Extension Throttle
Dampening Spring. Can be used on virtually any K-series, Magnum or Command
single- and twin-cylinder cast iron and aluminum block engine. Fastens between
governor and throttle levers to remove free play in linkage and reduce erratic
engine behavior due to throttle flutter for a smoother running engine. 93
coils. OEM Kohler part # 230117-S.
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23 Coils (Short)
Extension Governor Spring. Designed for Kohler engine models M10 (10hp),
K301/M12 (12hp), M14 (14hp) and K341 (16hp) used with a generator and/or
welder. Overall length is 2-1/2" (outside hook to outside hook). Maintains
engine rpms at a more steady pace and recovers engine rpms quicker when under
a load. Also works great for a competition stock pulling tractor. Discontinued
from Kohler. OEM Kohler part # 45 091 01-S.
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Governor Cross
Shafts for Kohler engine models K141 (6¼hp), K160 (6.6hp), K161 (7hp)
and K181/M8 (8hp). New shaft includes thrust washer. The lever on these rarely
break. NOTE: Before installing, lubricate shaft with clean motor oil for
smooth governor action and less wear to shaft and/or bushing. OEM Kohler
part # 230540-S.
Governor Cross Shafts for Kohler
engine models K241/M10 (10hp), K301/M12 (12hp), K321/M14 (14hp), K341/M16
(16hp) flatheads, K361 (18hp OHV). New shaft includes steel thrust spacer.
NOTE: Before installing, lubricate shaft with clean motor oil for smooth
governor action and less wear to shaft and/or bushing. OEM Kohler part
# A-235256-S.
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| New Bronze Governor
Shaft Bushings with or without Neoprene Rubber Oil Seal installed in machined
counterbore to keep dust and dirt out (which wears the bushing) and prevent
film of oily mess on side of engine. (Vacuum within crankcase due to upward
stroke of piston draws in dust and dirt, which attach to the oil in bushing,
and pressure from the downward stroke of piston blows out a fine mist of
oil, in overtime, builds up on outside of engine.) Seal fits snug in bushing
and on shaft, and has no effect with operation of governor whatsoever. For
Kohler engine models listed below Ê with
bushing # 230476-S, 41 158 02-S or 235476-S. NOTE: When ordering, please
specify part number of bushing or engine model and specification numbers.
And before installing, lubricate shaft with clean motor oil for smooth governor
action and less wear to shaft, seal and/or bushing. An innovative
concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this product or offer
this service.
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|
 Throttle Link
for Kohler flathead cast iron block K-series engine model K90 (3.6hp), K91
(4hp). OEM Kohler part # 220380-S.
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 Throttle Link
for Kohler flathead cast iron block K-series engine models K141 (6¼hp),
K160 (6.6hp), K161 (7hp) and K181 (8hp) with .086" (#44 drill bit size) hole
in governor lever and throttle lever. OEM Kohler part # 230078-S.
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 Throttle Link
and Nylon Bushing for Kohler flathead cast iron block Magnum model M8 (8hp)
with 3/16" hole in governor lever and throttle lever. OEM Kohler part # 25
079 01-S.
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 New Style Throttle
Linkage Kit. Fits Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241/M10 (10hp),
K301/M12 (12hp), K321/M14 (14hp), K341/M16 flatheads, K361 (18hp OHV) with
3/16" hole in governor lever and throttle lever.
|
|
 Throttle Rods
for Early Style Throttle Linkage. Fits Kohler K-series and Magnum engine
models K241/M10 (10hp), K301/M12 (12hp), K321/M14 (14hp), K341/M16 flatheads,
K361 (18hp OHV) with 3/16" hole in governor lever. 3/16" diameter rod x 10-32
NF threads. OEM Kohler part # 235277-S.
|
|
 All Metal, Early
Style Linkage Assembly with Snap-On Throttle Ball Joint Body. Fits Kohler
K-series and Magnum engine models K241/M10 (10hp), K301/M12 (12hp), K321/M14
(14hp), K341/M16 flatheads, K361 (18hp OHV) with 3/16" hole in governor lever
and ball on throttle lever. OEM Kohler part #'s 235277-S (rod) and 45 208
03-S (snap-on ball joint body).
|
|
All Metal, Early
Style Throttle Linkage Assembly with Integrated Ball w/Threaded Stud. Fits
Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241/M10 (10hp), K301/M12 (12hp),
K321/M14 (14hp), K341/M16 flatheads, K361 (18hp OHV) with 3/16" hole in governor
lever and without ball on throttle lever. OEM Kohler part #'s 235277-S (rod)
and 237130-S (ball joint w/integrated ball).
|
|
 New 3/16" Throttle
Ball Joint w/Integrated Ball/Threaded Stud for Kohler K-series and Magnum
engine models K241/M10 (10hp), K301/M12 (12hp), K330/K331 (12½hp), K321/M14
(14hp), K341/M16 flatheads, K361 (18hp OHV) with early style throttle linkage.
Can also be used on mini rods, hot rods, race cars, etc. 10-32 NF male and
female threads. Kohler part # 237130-S.
|
|
 Early Style Throttle
Snap-On Ball Joint Body. Fits Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 and Walbro #52,
#60, #64 carburetors with ball on throttle lever. Can also be used on mini
rods, hot rods, race cars, etc. 10-32 NF female threads and accepts 1/4"
diameter ball.
|
|
 Throttle Ball
w/Threaded Stud for Snap-On Ball Joint Body above
È. 1/4" diameter ball x 10-32 NF threads.
Includes nut and lock washer. Fits #26, #28, #30 Carter/Kohler and #52, #60,
#64 Walbro carburetors without ball/stud crimped on throttle lever. Can also
be used on mini rods, hot rods, race cars, etc. Discontinued from Kohler.
Replaced with Kohler part # 237130-S (ball joint w/integrated ball). Kohler
part # 48 194 01-S.
|
|
 E-Clip (Retainer)
for Early Style 3/16" Throttle Linkage above
È. Kohler part # 235278-S.
|
|
 Throttle Linkage
Kit for Kohler flathead twin cylinder engine models KT17, KT17II, KT19, KT19II
and KT21 with .086" (#44 drill bit size) hole in governor lever and throttle
lever. OEM Kohler part # 52 079 11-S.
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|
 Throttle Linkage
Kit for Kohler Magnum M18 and M20 flathead twin cylinder engines with 3/16"
hole in governor lever and throttle lever.
|
|
 Plastic Standard Capacity
In-Line Fuel Filter. 1/4" barbed fittings. 1-3/8" diameter x 1-3/4" long.
75
micron.
For engines with gravity feed or fuel pump.
|
 Plastic High Capacity In-Line
Fuel Filter. 1/4" and 5/16" barbed fittings for 1/4" or 5/16" fuel hoses.
75
micron.
For engines with gravity feed or fuel pump.
|
  Fuel Hose Clamps for 1/4" i.d. x 1/2" o.d. black neoprene rubber
reinforced fuel hose. Necessary when using a fuel pump and for safety.
|
 Reinforced Black
Neoprene
Rubber Fuel Hose. For 100% gas, E85 or methanol fuels. 1/4" i.d. x 1/2" o.d.
|
 Straight Fuel Hose Fitting.
1/8" NPT male threads x 1/4" barbed fitting. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces
Kohler part # X-495-1.
|
 90° Fuel Hose Fitting.
1/8" NPT male threads x 1/4" barbed fitting. Kohler part # 25 155 02-S.
|
 Fuel Hose
Upgrade/Conversion Kit
Do away with the old-fashioned sediment bowl/fuel filter and metal fuel line. This upgrade/conversion kit includes 1/4" i.d. x 12" long reinforced black fuel hose, clear in-line filter, one straight 1/4" barbed x 1/8" NPT threads fitting (threads into fuel tank) 1/4" barbed x 1/8" NPT threads fitting (threads into carburetor) and four spring-type fuel hose clamps. This kit is for Kohler engines with the gas tank positioned higher than the carburetor. The fuel hose is routed in a U-shape under carburetor. An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this kit.
|
|
 Plastic In-Line Fuel Shut-Off
Valve. Alcohol resistant neoprene seal. Fits 1/4" i.d. fuel hose. No filter.
Lever rotates 90° OFF/ON position. Very durable. Use for leaky carburetor
or long-term storage to prevent carburetor leaks, and required by certain
pulling associations for safety. Our part # 24-1036.
|
 All Metal In-Line Fuel Shut-Off
Valve. Alcohol resistant neoprene seal. Fits 1/4" i.d. fuel hose. No filter.
Lever rotates 90° OFF/ON position. Use for leaky carburetor or long-term
storage to prevent carburetor leaks, and required by certain pulling associations
for safety. Our part # 24-1166.
|
 Fuel Tank-Mounted
90° Angle Fuel Shut-Off Valve with fine mesh screen filter. Used on
certain Kohler engine models CH15, CH22, CH23, CH680, ECH730, K91, K141,
K161, K181, K241, K301, K341, M14 and M20. Also universal replacement part
for Gravely, Lawn-Boy, Snapper, Tecumseh, etc. Threads into bottom of gas
tank. Has 1/8" NPT mounting threads and fits 1/4" i.d. fuel hose.
|
|
 Neoprene Rubber Fuel Tank Bushing (Grommet) for Cub Cadet
"Quiet Line" models and Kohler Magnum engines. Fittings and valves below
Ê plugs into this. Use oil or grease
for easy installation into 33/64" hole on bottom of gas tank. Replaces: AMF
42690; Ariens 07509300, 07511400; Bolens 1738433; Briggs Power Products 78299GS,
80269GS; Exmark 1-513645; Ferris 22151; Kohler 25 313 01-S; Lawn-Boy 104047,
708331, 46-6560; MTD 735-0149, 1738433, 935-0149, 1903198, 1902479, GW-1738433,
GW-B1738433, 581615; Murray 42690; Noma 44847; Scag 48309; Simplicity 1654930;
Snapper 12337, 74158, 7012337, 7074158; Tecumseh 33679; Toro 46-6560, 1-513645,
E513645; Wheel Horse/Toro 104047; 104047P.
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|
 L-Shaped Fuel
Tank Plug-In Fitting w/o filter screen or shut-off valve for Cub Cadet "Quiet
Line" models and Kohler Magnum engines. 1/2" fitting fastens in neoprene
rubber bushing (above È) in bottom of
gas tank. Use oil or grease for easy installation. 1/4" fuel hose fitting.
Requires in-line fuel filter. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-109042-C2 (except
w/o shut-off valve).
|
|
 L-Shaped Fuel Tank
Plug-In Shut-Off Valve w/o filter screen for Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" models
and Kohler Magnum engines. 1/2" fitting fastens in neoprene rubber bushing
(above È) in bottom of gas tank. Use
oil or grease for easy installation. 1/4" fuel hose fitting. Requires in-line
fuel filter. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-109042-C2 and Kohler part # 25
462 01-S (except w/o filter screen).
|
|
 L-Shaped Fuel
Tank Plug-In Shut-Off Valve w/filter screen for Kohler Magnum Engines and
Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" models and Kohler Magnum engines. 1/2" fitting fastens
in neoprene rubber bushing (above È)
in bottom of gas tank. Use oil or grease for easy installation. 1/4" fuel
hose fitting. In-line fuel filter not required. Replaces Cub Cadet part #
IH-109042-C2 (except w/filter screen).
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|
 1/8" NPT x 1/8"
NPT x 3/4" long steel pipe connector. Use to fasten fuel shut-off
/filter/sediment bowl assembly (below Ê)
to gas tank. Kohler part # 25 136 23-S.
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|
 Fuel
Shut-Off/Filter/Sediment Bowl Assembly. Replacement for many older lawn and
garden engines. Filters fuel and separates water from gas. Threads into bottom
of gas tank. Dimensions: Overall height: 3"; Maximum width (not including
shut-off valve): 1-3/4"; Thread fittings: inlet (top) and outlet (side) are
both 1/8" NPT. Complete assembly no longer available from Kohler. Use fuel
hose upgrade/conversion kit (above È)
instead if you wish. Replaces: Kohler A-210101 (discontinued); Briggs &
Stratton 293964, 295913, 295977, 296005, 393169, 690612; Clinton 293-32-500,
293-32-5; Gravely 010313; John Deere PT4337; Tecumseh 24449, 24459, 32164,
32439, 32984, 32984A, 34279, 34279A, 34279B; Wisconsin LP43.
|
|
 O-ring seal for shut-off
valve shaft in fuel shut-off/filter/sediment bowl assembly above
È. Replace dry-rotted O-ring or leather
packing which can cause leaking fuel. Made of alcohol resistant
neoprene
rubber. Dimensions: 1/16" x 1/8" x 1/4".
|
 Fuel Shut-Off Valve for
Filter/Sediment Bowl Assembly above È.
Includes neoprene rubber O-ring seal (below
Ê).
|
 Sediment bowl
gasket (seal) for glass bowl on fuel shut-off/filter/sediment bowl assembly
above È. Made of alcohol resistant
neoprene
rubber.
|
|
 Fine Mesh Screen
Filter for Sediment Bowl Assembly above
È. 1-1/4" o.d.
|
|
 Replacement glass
bowl for fuel shut-off/filter/sediment bowl assembly above
È. Dimensions: 1-1/2" maximum width
x 1-1/8" height. Replaces: Briggs & Stratton # 298683; John Deere # PT4271.
|
|
Pleated Air Filters and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters -
| If you need any of the items listed below
Ê, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (home/shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell/text). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays),
9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When
speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) Please call before
coming on a weekend so I'll be here waiting for our
arrival.Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. Send
a message with Yahoo Messenger:
|
|
 Wing Nuts. Fits
majority of small engine air filter cover retaining studs and battery hold-down
clamp bolts with 1/4-20 NC threads.
|
|
 Pleated Air
Filters and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters for certain Kohler K-series
engine models K91 (4hp), K141 (6¼hp), K161 (7hp) and K181 (8hp).
Non-restricting flame retardant filter. Performance engineered for increased
breathing. Dimensions: 4-3/8" o.d. x 3" i.d. x 1-1/2" overall height.
Air filter: Kohler 230840-S; Cub Cadet 385163R2; Clinton 002-0233-00; Gravely
20299; John Deere AM31034; Massey 1035-991-M1; Tecumseh 30804. Prefilter:
Kohler 234870-S; John Deere AM31034; Massey Ferguson 1035-991.
|
|
 Pleated Air
Filters and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters for certain Kohler K-series
engine model K181 (8hp) cast iron block flathead engines. Non-restricting
flame retardant filter. Performance engineered for increased breathing.
Dimensions: 4-3/8" o.d. x 3" i.d. x 2-5/16" overall height. Air filter:
Kohler 231847-S; Cub Cadet 548436R1; Gravely 15373; John Deere AM30800; Tecumseh
31925; Onan 140-1188, 140-188; Rol Air 431. Prefilter: Kohler 234869-S
(K-series), 41 083 04-S (Magnum).
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|
  Pleated Air Filter and Reticulated Foam Wrap/Prefilter for
Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K181/M8 (8hp), K241/M10 (10hp),
K301/M12 (12hp) and K321/M14 (14hp) with the
short round air filter housing
assembly. Non-restricting flame retardant filter. Performance engineered
for increased breathing. Dimensions: 6" o.d. x 4-11/16" i.d. x 1-7/8"
overall height. Air filter: Kohler 235116-S, 25 883 03-S1 (kit); Cub
Cadet 385168R2. Prefilter: Kohler 237421-S (K-series), 45 083 01-S (Magnum).
|
|
 Pleated Air Filters and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters for
certain Kohler and Magnum engine models K241, K301, K321, K341, CH11-15,
KT17, KT19, and M18-20; for 18 thru 20hp engines with the
oblong air filter housing
assembly. Fits Kohler "Quiet Line" series engines in Cub Cadet models
680, 1000, 1050, 1200, 1204, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450 and 1650. Non-restricting
flame retardant filter. Performance engineered for increased breathing.
Dimensions: 7" o.d. x 5-1/2" i.d. x 1-3/4" overall height. Air filter:
Kohler 47 083 01-S, 47 883 01-S1 (kit); Cub Cadet 117210-C1, 759-3547, 959-3547;
Gravely 032494, John Deere M83646, Lesco 012596. Prefilter: Kohler 52 083
01-S.
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|
 Pleated Air Filters and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters for
Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K341, CH18-25, CV18-22, KT17II,
KT19II and M18-20; for 17 thru 22hp engines with the
oblong air filter housing
assembly. Fits Kohler "Quiet Line" series engines. Non-restricting flame
retardant filter. Performance engineered for increased breathing.
Dimensions: 7" o.d. x 5-1/2" i.d. x 2-7/16" overall height. Air filter:
Kohler 47 083 03-S, 47 883 03-S1 (kit); John Deere M47494 (fits JD models
200, 210, 212, 214, 216, 300, 312, 314, 316, 400); Woods 71803. Prefilter:
Kohler 41 083 04-S.
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|
 Neoprene Rubber
Seal for Air Cleaner Cover to Base. Reduces air intake noise. For following
Kohler AQS "Quiet Line" engine models K181, K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14,
K341/M16, K532 and K582. 28-1/4" long x 1/2" wide. OEM Kohler part # 47 032
03-S.
|
 Neoprene Rubber Tube for
Air Cleaner Base to Flywheel Housing. Reduces air intake noise, and also
has a "supercharger effect" at higher rpms because the flywheel forces extra
air into the intake, allowing the engine to produce a little more power.
For following Kohler AQS "Quiet Line" engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14,
K341/M16, KT17, M18, M20, K532 and K582. OEM Kohler part # 47 134 02-S.
|
 Pleated Air Filters and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters for
certain Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models M8 (8hp), K321/M14 (14hp),
K341/M16 (16hp), MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20 with the
tall round air filter housing
assembly. Can also
be used on a garden pulling tractor, mini rods, hot rods, race cars, etc.
with an automotive engine. Non-restricting flame retardant filter. Performance
engineered for increased breathing. Dimensions: 6" o.d. x 4-11/16" i.d.
x 3" overall height. Air filter: Kohler 45 083 02-S, 45 883 02-S1 (kit);
Cub Cadet 61606C/1759-3359. Prefilter: Kohler 45 083 01-S.
|
|
 Pleated Air
Filters and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters for certain Kohler engine models
K241 (10hp), K301 (12hp), K341 (16hp), K482 (18hp), K532 (20hp) and K582
(23hp) with the tall round
air filter housing
assembly. Can also
be used on mini rods, hot rods, race cars, etc. with an automotive engine.
Non-restricting flame retardant filter. Performance engineered for increased
breathing. Dimensions: 6" o.d. x 4-3/4" i.d. x 4" overall height.
Air filter: Kohler 277138-S. Prefilter: Kohler 277593-S.
|
|
| NOTE: Air filters and prefilters are available for many other makes and models of engines. If you need something that's not listed here, please contact me with your engine model and spec numbers and I'll see if I can get it at a reasonable price. | |
Information About the Carburetor Extension, Spacer, Intake Tube, Stand-Off, (or whatever they may be called) -
Spacing the carburetor
away from the engine block allows the fuel to atomize better (break down
into smaller particles) so the engine will produce more power and torque
at higher rpms. The further the carburetor is spaced, the better the fuel
will atomize.
When choosing the length of an intake tube, it seems that a 3" length works best for gas, and 5" length works best for E85 or methanol. Because gas runs more lean than E85 or methanol, it requires less space or distance to fully atomize, and being E85 and methanol fuels run richer, they need more space or distance to fully atomize before they enter the combustion chamber.
For pulling competition, if no [long] intake tube is to be used with the carburetor, a heat isolator gasket will work great. (Manufactured of heat-resistant phenolic resin.) The heat isolator gasket isolates the carburetor from engine heat so the fuel will atomize better (break down into smaller particles) before it enters the combustion chamber, which will help the engine produce more power and torque.
Also for pulling competition, with a carburetor extension in use, mounting gaskets are not necessary. Just resurface the ends of the extension (if needed) and carburetor mounting flange so it's perfectly flat (I use the side of the cutting wheel on my 14" chop saw. Works great! Be sure to use eye protection!), and then apply a thin bead of Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant with no gasket. By doing this, there is NO WAY the flange can warp or possibly break! By the way - I've always preferred to use Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant for three reasons: Gaskets don't always seal the irregularities between mating metals, especially thin metal covers; being it's an adhesive, it bonds parts together, forming a leak-proof seal; and being it's clear, it makes for a clean and professional-looking repair job. It can't be seen between the parts.
Use a Bigger Air Filter
on a Pulling Engine -
If an engine has a carburetor with a bored-out venturi, bigger ports, bigger valves, a big cam and it runs at wide open throttle, then it will definitely benefit from use of a bigger air filter. All of these things will undoubtedly allow an engine to draw in a lot more air at high rpms. If rules require that the engine must have an air filter, stack two air filters on top of each other (install a longer mounting stud, too), or use an OEM K341/K361 or twin cylinder air filter housing assembly (they're twice as tall than the 10, 12 or 14hp air filter) or install a velocity stack and use an aftermarket K&N air filter. The bigger air filter is so free-flowing and less restrictive, using an air filter this size would the same as not using an air filter all. The shorter 10, 12 or 14hp air filter housing assembly is too restrictive for wide open throttle operation. But if it's a basically stock engine with a stock carburetor, stock size ports and valves, and a stock cam, there'll be very little gained with a bigger air filter. If you pull on a lot of dusty tracks, then it would be worth investing in an air filter to save wear on the engine.
How to Repair Stripped Air Cleaner Base Mounting Holes in the Carter, Kohler #26, #28, #30 or Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 Carburetors when the original holes are too big for Heli-Coil thread inserts or even 12-24 screws: An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this repair method.
Part needed: Several inches of mild steel 1/4-20 NC
threaded rod. If the holes in the carburetor body are already 1/4", then
use 5/16-18 NC threaded rod. (All Thread, long threaded rod or long threaded
bolt.) NOTE: 5/16" is the maximum that can fit.
Advertisement:
| If you need the air cleaner mounting threads repaired in your carburetor,
please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd.
| Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (home/shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell/text). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays),
9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When
speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) Please call before
coming on a weekend so I'll be here waiting for our
arrival.Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. Send
a message with Yahoo Messenger:
Repair stripped 10-32 NF air filter housing mounting threaded hole(s). $10.00 - $20.00 for parts and labor. An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this repair service.ing. |
Never Over-Tighten the Mounting Bolts or Use Multiple Gaskets When Fastening the Carburetor to an Engine!
When installing the carburetor
to an engine, the use of two or more gaskets and then torquing the mounting
bolts to specs, or just over-tightening the bolts will severely warp the
mounting flange on a carburetor, causing it to bend, which will create a
vacuum leak, or worse yet, being cast aluminum don't bend or flex too easily,
the flange could break. See photo to the right.
à So remember, before installing
any carburetor, first resurface the mounting flange on a flat sanding disc
or flat belt sander until it's perfectly flat, and for general yard use,
install just one thin (.030" thickness) gasket or one (3/16" thickness) heat
isolator gasket. And use the "two-bolt torque" procedure! To do this, lightly
tighten the first bolt, then lightly tighten the second bolt. And tighten
the first bolt securely, and then tighten the second bolt securely.
If a Carter/Kohler or Walbro carburetor body is broken and/or damaged beyond repair, the carburetor body is 100% scrap metal. (If the threads for the float bowl retaining bolt are stripped, read below. Ê) But the parts on the carburetor body are considered valuable and can be used on another carburetor body that's in good condition (if some of the parts are in fact reusable). Parts such as: throttle and choke shafts and plates, choke friction (detent) ball and spring, idle speed adjusting screw and spring, idle fuel mixture screw and spring, high speed main fuel needle adjuster and spring, main jet/nozzle, fuel inlet valve and seat (if not worn and leaks fuel), float, float pin, float bowl, neoprene rubber O-ring seal, fuel baffle splash shield, bowl retaining screw, and fuel hose fitting. The OEM (US) manufacturers are phasing out many parts for flathead engines due to EPA smog emissions. But some parts may still be available in aftermarket.
How to Repair Stripped Float Bowl Retaining Bolt Threads in a Carter/Kohler or Walbro Carburetor - An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else mentions these type of repairs.
But if the threads for the float bowl retaining bolt are stripped
in a Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetor, a 3/8-24 NF bowl retaining bolt
(for the Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 or Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52,
#60, #64 carburetors) can be used. The stripped hole will need to be enlarged
with a 21/64" drill bit (be careful not to drill into the main jet; there's
no need to remove the main jet/nozzle), and new threads will need to be cut
perpendicular to the carburetor body with a 3/8-24 NF
bottom tap. A bottom tap cuts the threads deeper with very
little taper at the end. Do not complete the tapping process with just a
taper or plug tap because the threads may not go deep enough for the bigger
bolt. However, the threads can be started with a taper or plug tap, but will
need to be finished with the bottom tap. Then use [150± psi] compressed
air to thoroughly clear out the metal drilling/cuttings from the main jet/nozzle
and entire carburetor! A 3/8" i.d. fiber washer will need to be used with
the 3/8" bolt, and the hole in the float bowl will need to be drilled out
to 3/8" to match the bolt in the carburetor, or use a float bowl with a 3/8"
hole. Tighten the bolt snug to prevent from stripping the new threads.
If the threads for the float bowl retaining bolt are stripped
in a Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30, Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64
or virtually any other carburetor that use a 3/8"-24 NF float bowl retaining
bolt, an M10 x 1.25 pitch x 3/8" long (thread length) METRIC bolt can be
used. If a 3/8" long metric bolt can't be found, a longer bolt that's made
of mild steel can be machined down (shortened) in a metal lathe. Being the
stripped hole is already large enough for the 10mm x 1.25 threads to be cut,
it won't need to be drilled out. But if it does need drilling out (enlarging),
use an 11/32" drill bit (be careful not to drill into the main jet; there's
no need to remove the main jet/nozzle), then new threads will need to be
cut perpendicular to the carburetor body with a metric M10 x 1.25
bottom tap. A bottom tap cuts the threads deeper with very
little taper at the end. Do not complete the tapping process with just a
taper or plug tap because the threads may not go deep enough for the bigger
bolt. However, the threads can be started with a taper or plug tap, but will
need to be finished with the bottom tap. Then use [150± psi] compressed
air to thoroughly clear out the metal drilling/cuttings from the main jet/nozzle
and entire carburetor! Also, the holes in the fiber washer and in the float
bowl for the retaining bolt will need to be enlarged to 13/32" to match the
bolt in the carburetor. Tighten the bolt snug to prevent from stripping the
new threads.
Advertisement:
| If you need the repair service provided below, please contact A-1
Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO
65203-9136 USA | Phone:
1-573-256-0313 (home/shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell/text). Please call
Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer,
please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because
I stutter.) Please call before coming on a weekend so I'll be here waiting
for our arrival.Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. Send
a message with Yahoo Messenger:
Repair stripped threads in float bowl retaining bolt hole for Carter #16, #18, #20, #22, Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 or Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors. $30.00 for parts and labor, plus return shipping & handling. An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this repair service. |
Use a Remote Fuel Primer Bulb System to Start a Cold Engine - Top of page
If the Carter/Kohler carburetor
on a lawn or garden machine, or pulling tractor don't have a choke plate
assembly installed, but does have an air filter with perhaps a velocity stack,
and if the engine have to be "hand choked" to start it, then you probably
already know how hard it is to get your hand sealed over the entire velocity
stack or end of the carburetor, and also have a wet hand from the fuel
afterwards. And having a small hose connected to the atmospheric vent hole
in the carburetor is a lot safer than having raw fuel spilling out of the
drilled hole on the side of the carburetor when pulling! Well, an inexpensive
and safe way to get extra fuel into the throttle bore to start a cold engine
is to use a remote fuel primer bulb system. This system can also be adapted
for use on ordinary garden tractors, lawn and garden equipment or virtually
any type of small engine equipment with virtually any type of carburetor.
This system is similar to the same setup that many small engine manufacturers
use on their engines nowadays. Works with pump gas or alcohol fuels.
How it works: With the original atmospheric vent hole(s) in the carburetor plugged, a short brass tube is inserted into a drilled hole in the float bowl area on the side of the carburetor body, and with a small fuel hose connecting the carburetor to the primer bulb assembly, which is mounted on the steering dash/tower/pedestal, a couple of quick pushes on the primer bulb (with your finger over the hole in the bulb to seal in the air) creates air pressure within the bulb, tubing and float bowl, which force fuel up through the main jet/nozzle, creating a slight flooding condition in the throttle bore. Thus, helping a cold engine without a choke plate start much easier. With this system, the engine cannot be "over-choked," which could foul the spark plug. The fuel primer system can also be used as a manual accelerator pump when an engine won't accelerate on its own.
How to Install and Use the Remote Fuel Primer Bulb System:
Remove carburetor from engine
and plug the atmospheric vent hole(s). For the main hole that's located at
the 2:00 position next to the choke plate, cut some short threads for a 1/4"
Allen set screw and install the screw. And if there's a small hole behind
the choke plate, cut 3-48 threads in it and install a 3-48 screw with
high strength liquid threadlocker to permanently secure
it in place. See photo to the right. The hole in the primer bulb will
become the new atmospheric vent hole for the carburetor.
FYI - Most [cold] engines will not start when fuel is introduced directly into the combustion chamber through the spark plug hole. Doing this only results in a flooding condition and the engine may not start. Gas (or starting fluid) needs to be mixed with incoming air through the carburetor intake so the air can atomize the fuel (break down into small particles) to burn thoroughly so the engine will be able to start quicker.
When removing the choke plate and shaft, there's
a tiny (1/8") steel ball and spring located at the 9:00 position when facing
the choke end with the float area toward you. This is the detent to retain
the choke plate in the open position when a cable isn't attached to the choke
lever. When the choke shaft is removed, hold one finger over the screw hole
and choke shaft hole to prevent the ball and spring from flying out and possibly
getting lost.
Advertisement:
| If you need a remote fuel primer kit, please contact A-1 Miller's
Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136
USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313
(home/shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell/text). Please call Monday-Friday (except
Holidays), 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again
later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
Please call before coming on a weekend so I'll be here waiting for our
arrival.Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. Send
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Fabricate a Foolproof Type of Foot-Operated Throttle Control Setup on a Pulling Tractor - Top of page
When using a Carter or Kohler carburetor, a spring-loaded throttle control is a safety feature because the engine will idle down as soon as the driver lets off the gas pedal, just like in a car. But with the OEM-type, manually-operated throttle control, the driver must quickly reach for the throttle lever to idle down the engine. Many club's rules (including the HRGTPA's rules) state that a spring-loaded throttle control must be used for safety, either hand- or foot-operated (hand lever or foot pedal). The Mikuni carburetors have a built-in spring-loaded return.
When using a Carter or Kohler carburetor, for a fancy and noticeable
gas pedal, install a chrome-plated, die-cast aluminum "barefoot" pedal. These
were popular in the late '60s to early '70s as a nostalgic item mainly on
street rod and hot rod vehicles. They're available on
eBay. Use a medium size household brass door hinge to
fasten the pedal to the foot rest on the tractor.
To fabricate the steel rod throttle
linkage and levers, run a 3/16" diameter steel rod from the pedal, up to
a bellcrank (lever), then fasten the lever to a 5/16" diameter steel rod.
Run the rod through the steering column support and then fabricate another
bellcrank (lever) on the other end of the 5/16" rod (other side of the tractor),
and connect that to another 3/16" diameter steel rod which goes forward and
attaches to the throttle lever on the carburetor.
I made our own bellcranks (or levers) from 1/2" x 1/8" x about 2" long mild steel. I simply drilled a hole in each end (3/16" and 5/16") and clamped one end of the lever with a locknut on the 5/16" rod so I can loosen the nuts to make adjustments as necessary, and the other hole in the lever is for the 3/16" rod. Install a lightweight return spring from the pedal to the tractor frame. And look your tractor over to determine where the holes should be drilled through the steering column support. Just don't drill the holes where the steering column will be in the way. This setup cannot be used with Mikuni carburetors because Mikuni carburetors are cable-operated only.
If fabricated correctly, and properly installed and adjusted, I believe that this type of throttle control is absolutely the best design. There's very little wear to the moving parts and it will never fail on virtually any tractor. It works much better and with less friction than the cable design. There's no sliding cable that can bind, fray and eventually break, causing one to lose a good pull. And being virtually all tractors are different in design, I offer no kits for these. You'll have to fabricate your own. And the reason foot pedals are more popular than hand throttles is because both hands are needed on the steering wheel to control the tractor as it's going down the track.
Oh, and if you've ever wondered what a "dead man's throttle" is, it's a spring-loaded hand lever or foot pedal throttle control that automatically returns the throttle plate to the idle position when the pressure is released. It works the same as the gas pedal in a car. Top of page
Repairing the carburetor on an older 3hp, 3.5hp or 4hp Briggs & Stratton engine with either a Vacu-Jet or Pulsa-Jet diaphragm carburetor - Top of page
First of all, don't believe all factory-trained, brain-washed technicians. Because sometimes one must improvise to make something work. And despite what the service manual says, using a large, flat file to make the warped surface of a carburetor and/or gas tank flat again will not hurt anything if a skillful person does it and if he/she knows what they're doing. B&S wants to make more money by selling new parts. That's why they write their manuals the way they do. Remember the old saying: "A fool and their money are soon parted." B&S probably laugh all the way to the bank after making a sale, too.
The Vacu-Jet carburetor operates off of engine vacuum to delivery fuel to the engine. (The very first Vacu-Jet carburetors have a manual choke, and no diaphragm. The second design Vacu-Jet carburetor uses a diaphragm, and have a manual choke. The third design Vacu-Jet uses a diaphragm and has an automatic choke.) And the Pulsa-Jet has a built-in fuel pump to delivery fuel to the engine. Both of the [newest design] Vacu-Jet and Pulsa-Jet carburetors have an automatic choke. If either of these carburetors run rich on fuel, and the choke will not open after starting, what has happened is where the carburetor is fastened to the gas tank, these two "mating surfaces" has become warped. This is caused by over-tightening of the air filter housing screw. To fix this...
How to Repair the Vacu-Jet (3hp) or Pulsa-Jet (3.5 or 4hp) Automatic Choke Carburetor on a Vertical Shaft Briggs & Stratton Flathead Engine -
Remove the carburetor and
gas tank from the engine as a unit.
How to Repair the Pulsa-Jet Carburetor on a Vertical or Horizontal Shaft 5hp Briggs & Stratton Flathead Engine -
If a 5hp B&S engine has excellent spark and adequate compression, but doesn't run right, then the problem is obviously in the carburetor. To fix the problem...
Install a new fuel pump
diaphragm, carburetor-to-tank gasket and carburetor-to-block gasket, set
the fuel mixture adjustment screw about 1-½ turns out, and make the
final adjustment after the engine runs.
How to clean the main jet in a 16hp/18hp flathead opposed twin cylinder Briggs & Stratton engine -
The main jet is located in the float bowl of the carburetor. To access and clean it...
Your engine should rev up without using the choke afterwards! This may have to be done every few years because these type of carburetors are notorious for having tiny particles of dirt that passes through the fuel filter settle at the bottom of the float bowl. The main jet is real close to the bottom of the float bowl too, which allows dirt to clog it over time.
A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises Offering Quality Products and Professional Workmanship at Reasonable Prices!
à Return to Main Pulling Tips Page | Return To Previous Page | Reputable Garden Pulling Tractor Engine Builders, Parts Suppliers and Service Providers | Miller's Garden Pulling Tractor Picture Gallery | Pulling Sled for Garden Tractors Picture Gallery | Classified Advertisements for Garden Pulling Tractors, Related Parts & Pulling Event Announcements | Hot Links for Various Garden Tractor Pulling Clubs and Associations | Top of Page
© 1996-Present. Designed and maintained by Brian Miller.
Steel Thrust Washer for governor
cross shaft above È. Kohler part #
X-25-58-S.
Steel Thrust Spacer for governor
cross shaft above È. Kohler part # 25
112 17-S.
Bronze Governor Shaft Bushing
with 7/32" hole for Kohler engine models K90 (3.6hp), K91 (4hp), K141
(6¼hp), K160 (6.6hp), K161 (7hp) and K181 (8hp) w/spec # 30100-30848
and various M8 (8hp) engines with V-shaped/coiled governor spring under bushing.
NOTE: When ordering, please specify engine model and specification
numbers. And before installing, lubricate shaft with clean motor oil
or automotive grease for smooth governor action and less wear to shaft, seal
and/or bushing. OEM Kohler part # 230476-S.
Bronze Governor Shaft Bushing
with 7/32" hole for Kohler engine model K181 (8hp) w/spec # 301000-301045,
and various M8 (8hp) engines with extension governor spring. NOTE: When
ordering, please specify engine model and specification numbers. And
before installing, lubricate shaft with clean motor oil or automotive grease
for smooth governor action and less wear to shaft, seal and/or bushing.
OEM Kohler part # 41 158 02-S.
Bronze Governor Shaft Bushing
with 1/4" hole for all Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241/M10
(10hp), K301/M12 (12hp), K321/M14 (14hp), K341/M16 (16hp) and K361 (18hp
OHV). NOTE: When ordering, please specify engine model and specification
numbers. And before installing, lubricate shaft with clean motor oil
or automotive grease for smooth governor action and less wear to shaft, seal
and/or bushing. OEM Kohler part # 235476-S.
26 Coils (Short) Extension Governor
Spring. Designed for most Kohler engine models K241/M10 (10hp), K301/M12
(12hp), K321/M14 (14hp), K341/M16 and K361 (18hp OHV). Overall length is
2-5/8" (outside hook to outside hook). Used in Cub Cadet models: 70, 71,
72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126,
127, 128, 129, 149, 169, 1050, 1204, 1210 and 1211. Most common for general
yard and garden use to allow smoother revving of engine when under a load.
OEM Kohler part # 235496-S.
23 Coils (Long) Extension Governor
Spring. Overall length is 5-1/2" (outside hook to outside hook). Designed
for certain Kohler Magnum engine models M10 (10hp), M12 (12hp), M14 (14hp)
and M16 (16hp) used with an air compressor. OEM Kohler part # 47 089 07-S.
26 Coils (Long) Extension Governor
Spring. Overall length is 5-5/8" (outside hook to outside hook). Designed
for certain Kohler Magnum engine models M10 (10hp), M12 (12hp), M14 (14hp)
and M16 (16hp). OEM Kohler part # 47 089 09-S.
34 Coils (Long) Extension Governor
Spring. Overall length is 8" (outside hook to outside hook). Designed for
Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241/M10 (10hp), K301/M12 (12hp),
K321/M14 (14hp) and K341/M16 (16hp). Used in Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" models:
680, 1000, 1200, 1210, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1650, and John Deere "Quiet Line"
engines. Most common for general yard and garden use. OEM Kohler part # 47
091 01-S.
Choke Shaft w/"Upward Swing"
Lever for Kohler engine models KT17, KT17II, MV16, M18, MV18, MV20 with Kohler
#26 or Walbro WHG #52 carburetor. Steel lever with hardened bronze shaft.
Overall shaft length: 2-5/8". For carburetors with following numbers stamped
on mounting flange: 52 053 18, 52 053 21, 52 053 27, 52 053 32, 52 053 34,
52 053 47, 52 053 51, 52 053 54, 52 053 55, 52 053 59. Comes with screws
and split lock washers. NOTE: The choke shaft for the KT-series Kohler
carburetors have been discontinued. This one is made by Walbro and designed
for Walbro choke plates in a Walbro carburetor. If used in a Kohler carburetor,
the holes in the Kohler choke plate may need to be elongated to align with
the threaded holes in this shaft. And apply clean motor oil or automotive
grease on shaft before installing for smooth choke operation and less wear
to shaft and/or carburetor body.
Choke Friction (Detent) Compression
Spring for Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors. Dimensions: 5/32" diameter
x 1/2" long. NOTE: The ball and spring is for hand-operation of the choke
only, such as for a generator/welder engine. If choke is cable-operated,
such as in a tractor, then the ball and spring isn't needed. Also, the 1/8"
diameter x 1/2" long spring for the Carter and Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors
have been discontinued by Kohler. It's replaced with the 5/32" diameter spring,
which is to be used with the 5/32" ball. The detent hole in the carburetor
will need to be drilled out to 5/32" to accommodate the bigger spring and
ball. And be careful not to drill the hole deeper, just make it bigger.
Rebuilt Kohler #26 carburetor
for KT17, KT17II, KT19, KT19II, M18:
New Walbro carburetors (below
Ê) with adjustable high speed main jet.
Comes with throttle linkage, mounting and air filter housing gaskets. Available
for the following engines:
Float Bowl O-Ring Seal. 2-7/16"
diameter. Square cross-section. Fits Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60,
#64 carburetors that's used on Kohler Magnum engine models M8 (8hp), M10
(10hp), M12 (12hp), M14 (14hp), M16 (16hp), MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20
single- and twin-cylinder flathead cast iron block engines. Made of alcohol
resistant
Also fits Briggs and Stratton
7hp-12hp vertical shaft engine carburetors. Dimensions: 2-3/8" o.d. x 1-1/4"
height x 3/8" bottom hole. Steel bowl: Briggs and Stratton
part # 221995. Aluminum bowl: Kohler part # 235448-S. (Each part was originally
designed and made by the
Float bowls for Walbro WHL #36,
#44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors used on Kohler Magnum engine models
M8 (8hp), M10 (10hp), M12 (12hp), M14 (14hp), M16 (16hp), MV16, M18, MV18,
M20 and MV20. 2½" outside diameter. Each made of dent-proof and anodized,
corrosion-resistant steel.
3/8" i.d. Float Bowl Retaining
Bolt Fiber Sealing Washer. Fits Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHL
#36, #44, and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors. Included with the Carter/Kohler
carburetor overhaul kit.
Idle Fuel Mixture Adjuster Screw
for Carter/Kohler #26 carburetors with 1.07" throttle bore used on Kohler
K-series engine models K241 (10hp), K301 (12hp) and K330/K331 (12½hp).
(Originally designed and made by the
Idle Fuel Mixture Adjuster Screw
for Kohler carburetors used on Kohler engine models KT17, KT17II, KT19, KT19II,
KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20, K482, K532 and K582. Long tapered tip.
Dimensions: 1.026" overall length x .404" tip length x 7-40 threads.
Compression Pressure Spring
for Idle Fuel Mixture Adjuster Screws above
È used on Carter/Kohler carburetors.
High Speed Main Fuel Mixture
Needle Adjuster Screws for Carter #16, #18, #20 and #22 carburetors that's
used on Kohler engine models K90 (3.6hp), K91 (4hp), K141 (6¼hp), K160
(6.6hp), K161 (7hp) and K181 (8hp). The two parts below are identical in
every way, except
High Speed Main Fuel Mixture
Needle Adjuster Screw for certain Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors
used on Kohler K-series and early Magnum flathead engine models K241 (10hp),
K301 (12hp), K330/K331 (12½hp), K321 (14hp), certain K532 (20hp) and
certain K582 (23hp). Has four holes midway and two lower holes on stem. Designed
specifically for Kohler carburetors with following numbers stamped on mounting
flange: 47 053 07, 47 053 08, 47 053 12, 47 053 13, 47 053 14, 47 053 24,
47 053 29, 47 053 35, 47 053 40, 47 053 62, 47 053 80, 48 053 06 (K582).
Important - Please check numbers on carburetor before ordering. If in doubt
about superseded numbers for any particular carburetor, refer to
Compression Pressure Spring
for High Speed Main Fuel Adjusters (above
È) used on all Carter #16, #18, #20,
#22 carburetors, and Carter/Kohler #26, #28 or #30 carburetors. (Originally
designed and made by the
Idle Fuel Mixture Adjuster Screws
for all Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors used on Kohler
Magnum engine models M8, M10, M12, M14, M16 and twin cylinder engine models
MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20. NOTE: The adjusters below
Ê have the same threads and ends (tips).
The only difference is the type of head.
High Speed Main Fuel Mixture
Adjuster Needle Valve. Fits all Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64
carburetors w/adjustable high speed jet originally used on flathead cast
iron block Kohler Magnum single cylinder engine models M8-M16 and twin cylinder
models MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20. Overall length: 1-5/8".
Idle Speed Adjustment Screws
for Carter #16, #18, #20, #22, Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHL
or WHG carburetors. (Originally designed and made by the
Seals for 7/32" diameter throttle
shafts used in many smaller carburetors, such as Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh,
Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 and Walbro WHL #36, #44. NOTE: Apply clean motor
oil to seal before installing to trap dust and dirt. Seal is compressed between
throttle lever and carburetor body or installed bushing. Lessens chance of
dust and dirt from wearing throttle shaft and/or upper hole in carburetor
body or bushing.
Throttle plates for Walbro WHG
#60, #64 and Carter/Kohler #30 carburetors with 1.2" diameter throttle bore.
3/4" screw hole spacing. Made to be used with Walbro 47 144 36-S throttle
shaft above È, but can be used with
OEM Carter/Kohler #26 or #30 throttle shafts having 11/16" hole spacing with
holes in plate elongated. (New throttle plates for Carter/Kohler #26 and
#30 carburetors are no longer available. L)
8-32 NF (5/32"
diameter x 3/8" thread length, fine thread) for mounting air filter housing
base on Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 and Walbro WHL #44 carburetors. Size: .
Kohler part # 25 086 99-S.
10-32 NF (3/16"
diameter x 3/8" thread length, fine thread) for mounting air filter housing
base on Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors.
Size: . Kohler part # X-167-2-S.
Allen Head, 10-32 NF (3/16"
diameter x 1/2" thread length, fine thread) for mounting velocity stack on
Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 or Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors. (For
competitive pulling only.)
NOTE: To clean the foam prefilter,
use cleaning solvent (paint thinner) and [150± psi] compressed air,
allow to thoroughly dry, but do not add oil. Oil is not recommended for use
in foam prefilters because some of the oil could get drawn into the paper
element while the engine is running, partially clogging it.