Concerning the COVID-19 situation: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises is still in business and offering all the parts and services that's listed in this website. And being business is overwhelming and that we are short-handed working in a small shop, it may take longer than usual to process a big order. Please acknowledge your appreciation of the information in this website by making a donation through PayPal or to pay for an order.

Information About Various Small Engine Carburetors and Fuel Systems

Serving the Small Engine and Garden Tractor Pulling Community Since 1996. Where Science and Common Sense Come Together for Safety and Improved Engine/Tractor Performance.
A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises - Parts & Services Online Catalog

This page was updated 7/18/20. (Click Refresh to see changes or updates.) Optimized for 1024 x 768 screen resolution. Easy and simple to use website. To search for a word or phrase in any of my websites, press CTRL and F to open the Find dialog box in your web browser. Although every effort has been taken to check the accuracy of information contained herein, I cannot assume responsibility for errors.


Unsportsmanshiplike Conduct -

There's a cheater in every sport, and competition tractor pulling is no different. Honest pullers who ignore the cheater(s) are fools. And when there's prize money involved, a fool and their money are soon parted. Anyway, to make competition pulling a fun and fair sport for the entire family, be protective of your equipment! While at the pulls, keep an eye on your carburetor and fuel shut-off valve! When a competitive or winning pulling tractor is left alone, it's been known that certain disgruntled pullers (sore losers ) belonging to various associations/clubs, virtually anywhere and everywhere, will turn the high speed air/fuel adjuster one way or the other, or close the fuel shut-off valve to keep the engine from running at it's full potential, or from running at all. This is one of the easiest, dishonest and sneaky ways to retard or disable and sabotage a competitor's tractor. All a cheater needs is an opportunity in an attempt to gain an advantage on the track. This is also the fastest way for a pulling association or club to gain a bad reputation and lose honest pullers. (Bad news travels fast.) This type of dishonest behavior doesn't happen often, but you need to be prepared if or when it does happen. To be prepared for this unforeseeable event, it'll be a good idea to cover the entire carburetor with a drawstring bag, or better yet, cover the entire tractor with a canvas or heavy blanket. Keep an eye on your killswitch plug, too! Always try to stay one step ahead of a cheater.


Use a Remote Fuel Primer System to Start a Cold Engine - An ingenious, thoroughly researched and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise the use of this system for use on a lawn and garden tractor. [Top of Page] | Return To Previous Paragraph or Website.

If a Carter and Kohler carburetor (or virtually any type of float carburetor) that's used on a lawn or garden machine, or pulling tractor don't have a choke plate assembly installed, but does have an air cleaner/filter assembly, or an air filter with a velocity stack, and if the engine have to be "hand choked" to start it, then you probably already know how hard it is to get your hand sealed over the entire velocity stack or end of the carburetor, and also have a wet hand from the raw fuel afterwards. The remote fuel primer system installed will prevent this. Having a small hose connected to the atmospheric vent opening (air passageway from inside the float bowl area to outside of carburetor) in the carburetor is a lot safer than having raw fuel spilling out of the drilled hole on the side of the carburetor when pulling! An inexpensive and safe way to get extra fuel in the throttle bore to start a cold engine is to use a remote fuel primer system. This system can also be adapted for use on ordinary garden tractors, lawn and garden equipment or virtually any type of small engine equipment with virtually any type of float-type carburetor. This system is similar to the same set up that many small engine manufacturers use on their engines nowadays. Works great with pump gas, race gas, E85 or alcohol fuel. Can be used on most lawn & garden small engine equipment, garden pulling tractors, recreational vehicles, etc.

NOTE: If an engine is hard to start, even with the choke plate fully closed and tuned correctly, then it may need a professional valve job performed and valve clearances reset. The reason some older engines is hard to start is because the valve faces, especially the intake valve, wears slightly away against the valve seat, and this causes the clearance between the valve stem and lifter to be lessened, which will prevent the valve(s) from fully closing to trap adequate compression in the combustion chamber [so the engine can start easier]. This remote fuel primer system will not fix this type of problem.

How the Remote Fuel Primer System Works: The fuel primer bulb on a snowblower engine connects directly to the float bowl and takes place of the atmospheric vent hole in the float bowl. The bulb itself has a small atmospheric vent hole. When the bulb is compressed (small atmospheric vent hole sealed), this creates air pressure within the bulb, tubing and float bowl, which force fuel up through the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube), creating a slight flooding condition in the throttle bore. Thus, helping a cold engine without a choke plate start much easier. With this system, the engine cannot be "over-choked," which could foul the spark plug. The fuel primer system can also be used as a manual accelerator pump when an engine hesitates to rev up on its own.

With the original atmospheric vent opening (air passageway from inside the float bowl area to outside of carburetor) in the carburetor plugged, a short brass tube is inserted into a drilled hole in the float bowl area on the side of the carburetor body, and with a small fuel hose connecting the carburetor to the primer bulb assembly, which is mounted on the steering column support pedestal.

How to Install and Use My Remote Fuel Primer System:

  1. Remove the carburetor from the engine, remove the float bowl and float.
  2. Plug the atmospheric vent passageway (from inside the float bowl area to outside of carburetor that's located at the 2:00 position next to the choke plate) with a 1/4" Allen set screw. Cut some short threads for a 1/4" coarse or fine thread x 1/4" length Allen set screw, and install the screw in the opening. If there's a small hole to the right of the choke plate, plug this hole with a 3-48 screw using high strength liquid threadlocker. And if there's a small hole drilled on the outside of the carburetor body, this will need to be plugged with JB Weld two-part epoxy or a short screw. See the photos to the right. (The installed tube, hose and hole in the primer bulb will be the new atmospheric vent for the float bowl.)
  3. Be sure to use 150± PSI compressed air to clear out the metal cuttings from the entire carburetor.
  4. Drill an 1/8" hole into the float bowl area just above the float fuel level on the side of the carburetor body to install the 1/8" tube to connect the primer hose. On the Carter or Kohler carburetor, this would be just above the bowl seal and below the atmospheric vent opening (air passageway from outside the carburetor to the float bowl area) on the right side of the carburetor when viewed from the choke end. The drilled hole should be a press-fit for the 1/8" tubing. Use high strength liquid threadlocker to permanently secure the tube in the hole then gently tap the tube in the hole with a small hammer until it's flush with the inside of the float bowl area. See photo to the right.
  5. Reassemble the carburetor, and use a hammer to flatten the hole from inside the float bowl on a hard, flat surface so when the bowl bolt is tightened against the carburetor, it will place more pressure against the neoprene rubber O-ring seal and fuel baffle/splash shield to prevent an air leak (and possible fuel leak). Reinstall the carburetor on the engine, and connect the fuel line. FYI - The fuel baffle/splash shield prevents fuel inside the float bowl from traveling up through the atmospheric vent opening (air passageway into the float bowl) and into the throttle bore when the engine is "moving around" or "moving up and down" severely, such as on a go-kart or tiller, which could cause the engine to momentarily run rich on fuel.
  6. Drill a 17/64" hole to install the primer bulb assembly someplace on the tractor's steering column support pedestal within easy reach of the driver. Mount the primer bulb on side of the pedestal so rain water and/or when washing off tractor, water will not enter in the hole in the bulb and contaminate the fuel in the carburetor.
  7. Route the primer hose along the tractor so it won't get kinked, pinched or damaged and away from moving parts and hot exhaust area. Then attach the hose from the primer bulb assembly to the tube on the carburetor.
  8. Fill carburetor with fuel, and press the primer bulb quickly a couple of times with your finger to create pressure within the float bowl (be sure to place a finger over the hole in the bulb), and at the same time, look inside the carburetor. Fuel should squirt from the main nozzle and into the throttle bore with each push. Now then the engine should be quick to start! NOTE: It only takes a couple of pushes of the primer bulb to thoroughly prime the carburetor to start the engine. Any more pushes, the carburetor may become flooded and the engine could take longer to start! Another useful thing about the fuel primer system is, this system can be used as a manual accelerator pump if an engine hesitates to rev up, especially before reaching its operating temperature (cold engine).
  9. NOTE: If an engine is hard to start, even with the choke plate fully closed and tuned correctly, then it may need a professional valve job performed and valve clearances reset. The reason some older engines is hard to start is because the valve faces, especially the intake valve, wears slightly away against the valve seat, and this causes the clearance between the valve stem and lifter to be lessened, which will prevent the valve(s) from fully closing to trap adequate compression in the combustion chamber [so the engine can start easier]. This remote fuel primer system will not fix this type of problem.

FYI - Most [cold] engines will not start when fuel is introduced directly into the combustion chamber through the spark plug hole. Doing this only results in a flooding condition and the engine may not start. Gas (or starting fluid) needs to be mixed with incoming air through the carburetor intake so the air can atomize the fuel (break down into a fine mist) to burn more thoroughly so the engine will be able to start quicker.

When removing the choke shaft, there's a tiny (1/8" or 5/32") steel ball and small compression spring located at the 9:00 position when facing the choke end with the float area down. When the choke shaft is removed, hold one finger over the screw hole and end of the choke shaft hole to prevent the ball and spring from popping out and possibly getting lost. By the way - the ball and spring is required only for hand-operation of the choke plate to keep it in the open position on stand-alone engines, such as on a garden tiller, portable generator/welder, portable air compressor, portable water pump, etc. The ball and spring is not needed if the choke is remotely operated with a choke cable, such as on a garden tractor, etc.

Advertisement:
If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle, tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're planning to relocate our business our business to other property with a bigger and better shop so we can hire more help and provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)

Small Engine Remote Fuel Primer System Kits. Safe to use and works flawlessly! Can be used on most ordinary lawn and garden tractors, garden pulling tractors, recreational vehicles, or virtually any small engine lawn and garden or snow removal equipment with a choke plate in the carburetor. Primer bulb can be installed on pedestal, dashboard, instrument panel, engine control panel, flywheel shroud, etc. Requires 1/4" mounting hole for primer bulb assembly. Works with Carter/Kohler (OEM and aftermarket), Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh, Mikuni, Zenith, or virtually any carburetor with a float. Works with pump gas, race gas, E-85 or methanol fuels. The choice of professional garden tractor pullers everywhere! With the fuel bowl atmospheric vent opening plugged (air passageway from inside the float bowl to outside of carburetor), then with one or two pushes of the primer bulb with your finger, air pressure created within the float bowl forces fuel up through the main jet and out the nozzle, creating a slight flooding condition inside the carburetor throttle bore, allowing a cold engine to start quick. With this setup installed, the choke plate and shaft is not needed and can be removed. No more binding of a cable-operated choke and/or bent choke plate, or messy and unsafe "hand choking" of the carburetor. Being the atmospheric vent opening will be plugged, the fuel baffle splash shield in the Carter/Kohler carburetor is not needed with this setup and will serve no purpose whatsoever. Kit includes: New primer bulb assembly with integrated 1/8" barbed hose fitting and serrated mounting nut, 1/8" I.D. x 3/16" O.D. x 2' length clear vinyl hose, loop-type clamp and 1/8" diameter x 1" length brass tube. Click or tap here for installation instructions. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise the universal kit for use on various small engine equipment, lawn and garden tractors or competition pulling tractors. NOTE: If an engine is hard to start, even with the choke plate fully closed and tuned correctly, then it may need the valve clearances reset and/or professional valve job performed. The reason some older engines is hard to start is because the valve faces, especially the intake valve, wears slightly away against the valve seat, and this causes the clearance between the valve stem and lifter to be lessened, which will prevent the valve(s) from fully closing to trap adequate compression in the combustion chamber [so the engine can start easier]. This remote fuel primer system will not help an engine start easier if it needs a valve job. [Return to Previous Section]

  • Fuel Primer Bulb Assembly Only. Includes serrated mounting nut. $7.00 each, plus shipping.
  • High Quality Complete Universal Fuel Primer Kit. $11.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • XT Fuel Primer Kit. OEM Kohler part # 14 755 36-S. $15.50 each, plus shipping.


Identification of Carter and Kohler Carburetors -

(Corrected and updated 3/11/21) The types of carburetors that's used on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8 are as follows:


FYI - When Edelbrock bought out the [automotive division of] Carter Carburetor Corporation sometime before 1984, Carter sold their line of small engine carburetors to Kohler Engines in 1985. Kohler changed the throttle lever on the Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20 and #22 carburetors, but for some reason, retained the Carter name on them. And on the bigger Carter #26 and #30 single cylinder engine carburetors, Kohler redesigned (and actually improved) the throttle shaft with an integrated lever, and made slots for the mounting holes in the carburetor body for easier installation and removal on/from the engine block. Everything else remained the same on the Carter and Kohler carburetors, with the exception of the throttle levers and various choke levers. Six different variations of the Carter or Kohler carburetors was made for the Kohler K-series K241 through K361 engines, KT-series, and the K482, K532 and K582 engines. NOTE: Please don't discard your Carter or Kohler carburetor core. If not rebuildable, certain valuable parts can be reused on a good core. (The OEM (US) manufacturers are phasing out many parts for flathead engines due to EPA smog emissions. But some parts are still available in aftermarket.)

The differences between the Carter (#26, #28, #30) and Kohler (#26, #30) carburetors

The size number (diameter of throttle bore) for the Carter or Kohler carburetors is embossed inside the upper part of the choke end, just above the venturi. But not all Kohler carburetors have a number embossed. In this case, the throttle bore (throttle plate area) will need to be measured to determine the exact size of the carburetor. The size number refers to the amount of air that can flow through the carburetor.

The carburetor with 26 embossed in the choke end has a 26mm or 1.07" diameter throttle bore. (26mm converts close to 1.070"). The carburetor with 28 embossed in the choke end has a 28mm diameter or 1.17" throttle bore. (28mm converts close to 1.170".) And the carburetor with 30 embossed in the choke end has a 30mm or 1.200" diameter throttle bore (30mm converts close to 1.200".) For precision, when measuring the throttle bore to determine the size, it's best to use a dial or digital caliper.

FYI: Some people advertise online that the carburetor for Kohler engine models K241/M10 and K301/M12 can also be used on the K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 engines. But I know for a fact that if the K241/M10 and K301/M12 carburetor is used on a K321/M14, K341/M16 or K361, which produces 14hp, 16hp and 18hp, respectively, with the correct carburetors, would produce about 12hp, 14hp and 15hp, and make less torque, because the engine would be drawing less air through the smaller carburetor to produce not as much compression. I guess the seller don't know the difference between these carburetors, because they look virtually identical on the outside. Or maybe the seller figures what most people don't know, makes them more money.

The carburetors used on Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 are different. They may appear the same on the outside, but be very different on the inside. The K241/M10 and K301/M12 engines require a carburetor with a 1.07" throttle bore and venturi that measures .812" diameter. The K321/M14 engines requires a carburetor with a 1.2" throttle bore and venturi that measures .937" diameter. The K341/M16 engines requires a carburetor with a 1.2" throttle bore and venturi that measures 1.000" diameter. And the K361 engine requires a carburetor with a 1.250" throttle bore and venturi that measures 1.062" diameter. If the wrong carburetor is used on any particular engine, the engine may not run right and not produce full power. The carburetors that's used on various models of Kohler engines are as follows:

  1. The first carburetor is a number "26". It was originally designed and manufactured by the Carter Carburetor Corporation, then later manufactured by Kohler Engines. It has a 26mm or 1.07" diameter throttle bore and the venturi is .812" diameter. It's designed to be used on Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K3303/K331, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. The carburetor for the single cylinder engines is discontinued from Kohler L, but available in aftermarket J. The replacement carburetor from Kohler is a Walbro WHG #52. OEM Kohler part # 47 853 23-S.
  2. And yet there's another type of Kohler #26 carburetor designed specifically for Kohler engine models K482 and K532. It has a 26mm or 1.07" diameter throttle bore and the venturi is .812" diameter. The throttle shaft is positioned horizontally and the idle fuel mixture screw is positioned directly on top of the carburetor body instead of at an angle on the side. This carburetor is discontinued from Kohler L, but available in aftermarket J.
  3. The next carburetor is a rare one, it's a number "28". This carburetor was originally designed and manufactured by the Carter Carburetor Corporation, and was used on the early Kohler engine model K321 with specification suffix "A", "B" or "C" (with a smaller 1-1/8" exhaust valve) and on certain early low RPM K341 engines. It has a 28mm/1.17" diameter throttle bore and the venturi is .937" diameter. It may have the part number 236636 stamped on the flange. It has been discontinued by Carter many years ago. L The replacement is OEM Kohler part # 45 053 20-S. Which is the fully adjustable Kohler #30 carburetor as described below. The Walbro WHG #60 or #64 replacement is OEM Kohler part # 47 853 30-S. By the way - if there's no numbers anywhere on the carburetor body, then it's definitely a Chinese-made aftermarket carburetor. Because Carter, Kohler and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on the flange of all their carburetors. FYI - In 1985, Carter sold their line of small engine carburetors to Kohler Engines. After 1985, the #28 carburetor was discontinued, and Kohler installed their #30 carburetor on ALL of the later K321 and K341 engines. Also, after 1985, Kohler gave the K321 engine a larger 1-3/8" exhaust valve and made the intake port larger in diameter. These are engines with specification suffix "D" and later. The larger exhaust valve , bigger intake port and bigger #30 carburetor allows for more air to enter and exit out of the combustion chamber so the engine will produce full 14hp at 3,600 RPM. By the way - The early K321 engine with the small intake port and small exhaust valve make a good stock 4,000 RPM competition pulling engine, but the later K321 engine with the big intake port and big exhaust valve make an excellent high RPM competition pulling engine.
  4. The third carburetor is a number "30". It was originally designed and manufactured by the Carter Carburetor Corporation, then later manufactured by Kohler Engines. It is used on the later model K321/M14 (later K321's, meaning with the 1-3/8" diameter exhaust valve; the early K321's had the 1-1/8" exhaust valve), K341/M16 and K582 engines. It has a 30mm or 1.200" diameter throttle bore and the venturi is 1.000" diameter. This original fully adjustable Kohler #30 carburetor with the 1.2" throttle bore (OEM Kohler part # 45 053 20-S) and the Walbro WHG #60, #64 replacement carburetor OEM Kohler part # 47 853 30-S) for the K321/M14 and K341/M16 engines are discontinued from Kohler.
  5. There's another #30 carburetor designed specifically for the Kohler engine model K582. The throttle shaft is positioned horizontally and the idle fuel mixture screw is directly on top of the carburetor body instead of at an angle on the side. This OEM Kohler carburetor is discontinued from Kohler L, but is available in aftermarket as the Kohler-replicated Chinese-made fully adjustable #28 carburetor with a 1.17" throttle bore J. FYI: Lots of people advertise online that the carburetor for the K482 and K532 can also be used on the K582. But I know for a fact that if the K482 and K532 carburetor is used on the K582, which produces 24hp with the correct carburetor, would produce about 21hp and make less torque, because the engine would be drawing less air through the smaller carburetor to produce not as much compression. I guess the seller don't know the difference between these carburetors, because they look virtually identical on the outside. Or maybe the seller figures what most people don't know, makes them more money.
  6. Lastly, there's another type of Kohler #30 carburetor. Its throttle bore measures 32mm/1.25" and the venturi is 1.062" diameter. Otherwise, it's identical in every other way to the (1.2") #30 carburetor above È. It's used only on Kohler engine model K361. This carburetor is discontinued from Kohler and is not available in aftermarket L. However, The carburetor for the K341 engine (Kohler part # 45 053 20-S), which have a venturi diameter of 1", can be used on the K361 engine, but the venturi will need to be bored to 1.062" so the K361 will produce full power at 3,600 RPM.
  7. NOTE: If a too large of a carburetor is used on a smaller engine, not enough velocity (rapid movement) of air can be drawn through the carburetor at higher RPMs. Therefore, the insufficient amount of moving air cannot draw (vacuum) enough fuel from the main fuel nozzle to sufficiently feed the engine. The exception of this rule is if the engine has oversize valves (larger than factory-installed valves), then there should be enough vacuum to draw sufficient amount of air through the carburetor.

By the way - the part number of all Kohler-made and Walbro carburetors are stamped on the right side of the mounting flange. Don't refer to the numbers just below the fuel inlet port. They represent nothing that I know of. Click here to identify a Kohler or Walbro carburetor and matching parts: Kohler Carburetor Reference Manual TP-2377-E.pdf. (require Adobe Acrobat Reader and use Google Chrome web browser for a faster download of websites with large files.) If there's no numbers anywhere on the carburetor body, then it's definitely an aftermarket Chinese-made carburetor. Because Carter, Kohler and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on the flange of all their carburetors.

Airflow / CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) -

FYI - The throttle bore in the Carter or Kohler #26/1.07" carburetors can be bored to 1.17" (#28 size) or 1.2" (#30 size), and the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube) will still bottom out against the throttle bore, and of course, a 1.17" or 1.2" throttle shaft and plate would need to be used. But the boring process will break through the idle fuel mixing well (the idle progression holes and the welch plug hole) that's next to the throttle plate. Modifications to this area would need to be made by threading in an 1/8" Allen pipe plug where the welch plug is (or was), and drilling and installing a small brass or copper tube from the idle fuel mixture adjuster screw down into the float bowl, next to the float, with enough clearance so it won't interfere with the movement of the float. A 1/4-28 UNF x 3/4" thread length bolt will also need to be installed where the high speed air/fuel needle adjuster is (was) to block off a vacuum leak to will occur with the modifications of the idle air/fuel mixing well. Actually, it would be MUCH easier and less cost effective to just convert either a Carter or Kohler #28 or #30 carburetor for high performance use and not having to do anything to modify the idle fuel passageway.

Boring-out of the venturi in the carburetor alone will not help to increase engine performance. To increase the overall airflow in and out of the combustion chamber for improved engine performance, and if sanctioning club's rules allow this, the intake (and exhaust) port runners must be enlarged, too. This is called "porting an engine." The [stock size] valves will also need to be reworked and undercut to increase airflow. Or larger reworked and undercut valves and a cam with more lift and duration will need to be used.

For competition pulling, carburetor design and size depends on port sizes, valve sizes, if the intake valve and seat have 30º/31º angles and undercut heads, and the cam profile (lift and duration) is important. If an engine has stock ports, valves and cam, a plain stock carburetor can be used. But if the ports and valves have been reworked for more airflow, and a bigger cam is going to be used, then a bored-out carburetor with a .995" or 1" venturi can be used for best performance. A bored-out venturi and reworked carburetor is when the carburetor is modified for maximum performance for general yard and garden use, and/or for competition pulling.

The 26mm carburetor obviously has a smaller throttle bore. Therefore, is restricted as to how much air can flow through it, even with the venturi removed. It'll work excellent on a hot K241 or mild K301 engine, but the larger 28mm and 30mm carburetors flows more air, 7.7% more for the 28mm, and 15.5% more for the 30mm. Which are ideal for a hot K301 and larger engines with porting, polishing, bigger valves and a big cam. If you feel that a single 30mm carburetor won't flow enough air for your particular engine, then either a "Super Carb," Dellorto, Mikuni, S&S Super D or a twin Kohler carburetor setup (on a "Y" intake) should be used. If you have a K321 Kohler engine, and you can't find a #28 or #30 carburetor, then a Carter or Kohler #26 carburetor will work just fine for general lawn and garden use. Personally, I ran a stock Kohler #26 on the K321 Kohler engine that's on my 6,000 lb. self-propelled pulling sled for 10 years and the engine didn't lack any power whatsoever.


Identification and Information About Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 Carburetors -

The Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors originally come on all Magnum engines. These carburetors are direct replacements for the Kohler carburetors. The Walbro #52 carburetor has a throttle bore diameter of 1.07" and is designed for use on models K241/M10, K301/M12, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20 engines. And the Walbro #60 or #64 carburetor have a throttle bore diameter of 1.2" and is designed for the K321/M14, K341/M16 engines, and being the 1.25" Kohler carburetor that was originally designed for the K361 engine is longer available, the only option is to use the Walbro #60 or #64 carburetor.

The older Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors are reliable and they seem to last a long time before requiring service. Most older Walbros are worth rebuilding, because the float valve seats are made of hardened solid bronze, which is actually harder than cast iron. They were manufactured back in the day when most business owners took pride in their products and offered their customers a quality product.

But the newer Walbro carburetors, especially the ones that come on recently-built aluminum block small air-cooled engines, are notorious for leaking gas after several years of use. Although overhaul/rebuild carburetor kits are available, it really does no good to rebuild them and install a new fuel inlet valve because the float valve seat is made of soft brass, which erodes with use due to microscopic particles of dirt/debris that pass through the filtering material in the fuel filter, and in most Walbro carburetors, the seat is not replaceable. The fuel inlet seat in older Walbro carburetors are made of hardened compressed bronze, which is actually harder than cast iron. There is no indication or records of when Walbro made the change from the hard seat to the soft seat.

The fine mesh filter screen and filtering material in fuel filters can only block certain size of dirt and debris from entering the carburetor. Any extremely tiny particles that can pass through the fuel filter will build up in the bottom of the float bowl and can eventually clog the main fuel jet. Lightweight and suspended particles in the fuel of the float bowl gets sucked up through the main jet and is burned in the combustion chamber. The best way to remove built-up stuck and stubborn debris from inside the float bowl is to use a 2" brass wire cup brush (shown to the right) with a hand-held power drill, and then use 150± PSI compressed air to clear out the debris from the main jet hole and clear out the entire float bowl area of the carburetor. On very rare occasions, a hair can pass through a fine mesh fuel filter screen and become lodged (trapped) between the float valve and inlet seat, causing the carburetor to slightly flood with gas. When this happens, the hair can be successfully removed with 150± PSI compressed air and the same float valve and seat can be reused because chances are, they will not be damaged.

To put it in plain English: If your Walbro carburetor doesn't leak gas out the choke end, but need an overhaul/rebuild, then it may be worthwhile to install a new kit. But if it does leak gas, then I doubt that a new float valve will fix the problem. Your only options are: install a fuel shut-off valve and turn off the fuel every time the engine is not in use, or install a rebuilt Carter or Kohler K-series carburetor.

About 90% of small engine carburetors are manufactured by Walbro nowadays, and I don't think that one is better than the other. The trick to getting the soft brass seat (and needle/float valve) to last longer is to use a fuel filter with a very fine mesh or pleated paper element. The finer, the better. Because it's the microscopic dirt/debris/grit that passes through the filter that causes the seat (and needle/float valve) to erode and wear. And every pressed-in brass seat that I've replaced ALWAYS leaked gas. There's just no way to get them to seal with the carburetor body, not even with high strength liquid thread locker.

The only problem using a Walbro on a pulling tractor or for high performance application is they can't be bored-out or modified in any way because the throttle bore wall (where the venturi is located) is too thin. Therefore, they're limited to how much air can flow through them. The US government EPA laws required that Kohler and all other small engine manufacturers redesign their carburetors so the engine will produce less air pollution. So they started using a redesigned emissions-controlled, EPA-approved Walbro carburetor with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet. This is to prevent people from setting the air/fuel ratio too rich and create more air pollution. The older-designed Walbros that have an adjustable main jet, which is located on the lower right side of the carburetor, are still available new. main jets of various sizes are available for most carburetors with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet so the engine will run correctly depending on the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine will be used.

A small engine with a fixed, non-adjustable high speed main jet carburetor is supposed to run at a maximum of 3,200 RPM. If the RPMs is set higher, the air/fuel mixture will lean out (too much air and not enough fuel), resulting in the engine overheating, which will eventually cause the cylinder head to burn-out, or premature wear to the piston and rings, resulting in the engine burning oil. The way around this is to drill out the high speed main jet a few thousandths of an inch to give the engine more fuel. But only do this if it's absolutely necessary! If an engine lacks sufficient power at 3,200 RPM, then it obviously needs a professional valve job performed and/or major tune-up.

(Added 7/18/20) If a small engine cylinder head is burned out (usually close to the exhaust valve), if it's burned out where the gasket seals, as long as there's no cracks in the head, it can be successfully welded up, machined flat, the bolt hole redrilled and be put back into service. The following items are what causes cylinder head burn-out...

Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors work great for ordinary lawn and garden equipment, general lawn work and they're perfect for basic stock low RPM/low performance pulling tractors with an engine that's governed to a maximum of 3,200 RPM with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet, or at 3,600 RPM with an adjustable main jet. A carburetor with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet is limited to just 3,200 RPM and should never be operated faster for an extended length of time. Although the venturi cannot be bored-out on a Walbro, they work equally as well as the older Carter or Kohler carburetors when used on a stock engine. The main jet in the newer Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors are calibrated at the factory to provide the engine with just the right amount of fuel at 3,200 RPM. Therefore, the fixed/non-adjustable main jet inside the carburetor cannot be replaced with an adjustable one.

Advertisement:
If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle, tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're planning to relocate our business our business to other property with a bigger and better shop so we can hire more help and provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)

If a small engine cylinder head is burned out (usually close to the exhaust valve), as long as there's no cracks in the head, it can be successfully welded up, machined flat, the bolt hole redrilled and be put back into service.

  • Professionally weld-up burned-out area in cylinder head, machine flat ,and bolt hole redrilled. $60.00 welding and labor, plus return shipping & handling.
High Quality Inductive Handheld Small Engine Wireless Tachometer. For gas/spark ignite engines only. Very accurate. This handheld analog tachometer works great for checking/setting the RPM on various small engines in the shop, and/or for checking/setting the RPM [tech] on stock governed engines at pulling events, ATVs/UTVS, etc. Hold sensor (antenna) close to spark plug wire for reading. Operates off a self-contained replaceable 9 volt battery. Has built-in battery voltage check. Reads up to 5,000 RPM on the low scale, and 15,000 RPM on the high scale.
  • $85.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Inductive Small Engine Tachometer and Hour Meter. High quality and very accurate. Large 3/8 inch LCD display. Works with all spark ignition engines by selecting engine type using S1 and S2 buttons. Instructions included. Tachometer reads up to 99,999 RPM. Hour meter reads up to 9999:59 hours/minutes. Can be manually reset to Zero hours. Programmable maintenance hour setting with service icon, a reminder when to change oil or other service. Easy installation: Single wire wraps around spark plug wire and secured with two supplied nylon zip-ties. No wire terminal connections required. Tachometer can be surface-mounted and secured with two screws. Has built-in battery rated up to 4 years. Sealed unit; weather and water resistant. Dimensions: 2" wide x 1-3/4" depth x 3/4" height.
  • $20.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Digital Tachometer/Proximity Sensor Kits. Will work with small engines or automotive engines, gas or diesel. Very accurate. Designed to be permanently mounted to monitor engine RPM at all times. This precision digital tachometer operates with external power and on the same principle as my crank trigger ignition with a proximity sensor to detect a target, which can be a small ferrous steel screw or pin, or magnet in a rotating disc or on/in flywheel. A sturdy steel or aluminum bracket will need to be fabricated by customer to mount the sensor in close proximity of the detector/trigger target. Set air gap/clearance at .010"-.188". Tachometer can be dash- or panel-mounted. Tachometer works with 8-24 volts DC, proximity sensors works with 6-36 volts DC. Tachometer can be dash- or panel-mounted. Tachometer works with 8-24 volts DC external power, proximity sensors works with 6-36 volts DC external power. Dimensions of each proximity sensor below: 15/32" (12mm) diameter x 1-3/8" thread length. Some proximity sensors have an LED (Light Emitting Diode) on the rear of unit. If the proximity sensor is wired incorrectly, the LED will stay on and go off when activated. Displays up to 9,999 RPM. Very accurate. Tachometer returns to zero [0000] when power is turned off. Wiring Instructions: #1 wire on tachometer connects to brown wire on (either) proximity sensor and ignition switch (battery positive (+) post), #2 wire on tachometer connects to blue wire on (either) proximity sensor and engine/chassis ground (battery negative (–) post), and #5 wire on tachometer connects to black wire on (either) proximity sensor. Wires #3 and #4 connects to nothing. Wiring can also be integrated with crank trigger ignition with a proximity sensor. Choice of RED or BLUE numeric display.
  • Tachometer only. To be used with a 3-wire hall effect, inductive or cube-shaped proximity sensor. $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Complete Kit with Hall Effect Proximity Sensor. (Senses the South pole of a small magnet embedded in an aluminum rotating locking collar or disc.) $22.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Complete Kit with Inductive Proximity Sensor. (Senses the head of a small steel screw in a rotating locking collar, disc or flywheel.) $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Return to previous section.

Carter or Kohler or Walbro Fully Adjustable main jet Carburetors VS. Walbro Fixed/Non-Adjustable Main Jet Carburetor RPM to Horsepower Specs -

Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet are designed with emission controls in mind to run leaner to create less air pollution. However, the main problem with most Walbros having a fixed/non-adjustable main jet is during cooler weather operation. During cool weather, and running at 3,200 RPM, the engine will sometimes run too lean on fuel and operate erratically. To fix this, first of all, make sure the hole (orifice) in the main jet is not partially clogged. If it is, use a carburetor jet cleaner wire set or an oxy-acetylene welding torch tip cleaner to clear any debris that may be lodged in the hole. Then use 150± PSI compressed air to clear out any dirt/debris. If the engine still runs too lean on fuel, simply enlarge the hole (orifice) in the main jet a few thousandths of an inch. Then use 150± PSI compressed air to clear out any metal particles. Be careful not to enlarge the hole (orifice) in the main jet too much, or the engine will run rich on fuel! The hole (orifice) diameter in the OEM factory main jet for 100% gasoline is 3/64" (.047"). If necessary, enlarge the main jet and fuel inlet holes with a #55 (.052") drill bit. That's a .0052" difference. After doing this, for cool weather, the engine should run better, last longer and produce more power. But don't enlarge the hole (orifice) in the main jet too much! A too big of a hole (orifice) will cause an engine to run too rich on fuel, making it blow black smoke out the exhaust and possibly fouling the spark plug. If the hole (orifice) is made too large, the carburetor will be useless for gasoline, and E85 fuel must be used. But if an engine is going to be used only during warm weather and if it runs okay [during warm weather], don't enlarge the hole (orifice) in the main jet.

On the newer carburetors with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet, the hole (orifice) in the main jet may need to be enlarged .002"-.003" to give the engine a little more fuel so it'll run better at higher RPM. Otherwise, the engine could "burn up" or wear out prematurely due to the lean air/fuel mixture. I have an assortment of tiny drill bits that I use on our customer's lawn & garden equipment carburetors.

IMPORTANT! A new-style Walbro carburetor with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet should never be used on a non-governed (wide-open throttle) engine or on an engine that's going to turn at 3,200 RPM! The reason for this is because if an engine operates faster with a carburetor having a fixed/non-adjustable main jet, it'll run too lean on fuel at high RPM (it'll draw much more air than fuel), which will cause the combustion chamber to overheat and the excessive heat will likely damage the piston and rings and possibly warp the cylinder head and/or exhaust valve or even crack the cast iron engine block. A lean fuel mixture can also melt away part of the aluminum in the combustion chamber of an aluminum block engine.

The size number on the Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors is embossed inside the carburetor and can be seen by looking inside the upper part of the choke end, just above the venturi. A "52" carburetor has a 26mm diameter throttle bore, which converts closely to 1.024 inches (26 ÷ 25.4 = 1.024"), but actually measures 1.07".

And being the venturi in the old-style Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors used on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161 and K181 can't be bored-out either, the only option for pulling competitively with these is to fabricate an adapter to fasten to the intake port on the engine block and use a #52 Walbro or #26 Carter or Kohler carburetor.

The best way to determine which engine any particular carburetor is made for is to measure the diameter of the throttle bore. Because a set of numbers that's stamped on the carburetor body mean nothing, not even to Kohler Engine dealers. If a carburetor measures .822" (13/16"), then it's designed for the K141, K160/K161 or K181 engines. If it measures 1.07", then it's for the 10hp or 12hp engines. And if it measures 1.17" or 1.2", it's for a K321, K341 or K361 engine.


The Wrong Type of Choke Lever!

Whenever I get a carburetor with the choke lever in the wrong position, if it has a steel choke shaft, I just grind the lever off at the flare and weld it back on the shaft in the right position. But if it has a brass shaft, I use a steel choke shaft out of a junk carburetor. Or if I don't have a used one in stock, I machine a steel choke shaft from a 1/4" mild steel rod. Like the old saying goes: "There's more than one way to skin a cat."

The Choke Shaft Detent Ball and Spring -

When removing the choke shaft, there's a tiny (1/8" or 5/32") steel ball and small compression spring located at the 9:00 position when facing the choke end with the float area down. When the choke shaft is removed, hold one finger over the screw hole and end of the choke shaft hole to prevent the ball and spring from popping out and possibly getting lost. FYI - The detent ball and spring are only required for hand-operation of the choke plate to keep it in the open position on stand-alone engines, such as garden tillers, portable generators/welders, portable air compressors, portable water pumps, etc. If choke is operated by a sliding remote wire cable control, such as on a garden tractor, then the ball and spring isn't required and will serve no purpose whatsoever.

Installing the choke shaft over the friction (detent) ball can be tricky. This is how it's done:

  1. Place the carburetor on a sturdy work bench or table with the choke end facing upward and the float area facing toward you, or gently clamp it in a bench vise.
  2. Install the ball and spring in the threaded air cleaner/filter assembly mounting hole located at the 9:00 position with the choke end facing you and float bowl downward. Certain Walbro carburetors have the ball and spring at the 3:00 position. Make sure the ball is centered with the spring.
  3. Use an 1/8" roll pin punch with a blunt end to firmly compress the spring/ball.
  4. When using your left hand to compress the ball/spring with the punch, place a finger over the outside shaft hole to ensure the ball will not "pop out" and go flying across your shop.
  5. Use your right hand to gently slide the shaft in through the hole until it makes contact with the punch, then at the same time while still pushing on the shaft, reposition the punch at an angle (toward your right), then slowly pull up on the punch at the same time continuing pushing the shaft through the hole so the shaft can slide over the ball. Make sure your finger is still over the end hole!
  6. The end of the shaft should now be flush with the outside of the carburetor body. Gently rotate the shaft to feel the ball "catch" in the detent hole.
  7. If this goes well, install the choke plate and apply clean lubricating oil through the screw holes for smooth choke operation and less wear to the shaft and/or carburetor body.


How to adjust the fuel mixture screws on a Kohler (or virtually any small engine) fully adjustable carburetor - [Top of Page]

First of all, if the engine runs well at idle and at higher RPM, don't worry about how the idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustment screws are set. Carburetor adjustments depend on the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine will be operated. In higher elevations, air is thin or less dense. Therefore, the engine requires more air than fuel to run well. But in lower elevations, air is heavy or dense, and because of this, the engine requires less air than fuel. So there is obviously no "one set adjustment" for all carburetors in all areas. And no new or rebuilt carburetor with adjustable jet(s) for small engines, automotive or whatever, come from the manufacturer or rebuilder with the idle speed, idle air/fuel mixture or the high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments set correctly. This is true for ordinary lawn and garden, and all small engines, and pulling engines alike, with the exception of [Walbro] carburetors with the fixed/non-adjustable high speed jet.

How the Idle Fuel Passageway Works in the Carter and Kohler Carburetors -

On the Carter or Kohler (and Walbro) carburetors, the hole towards the bottom of the long main needle adjuster is supposed to be open and not clogged, so the engine can draw fuel through it for idling from the float bowl. The idle fuel passageway for a Carter or Kohler carburetors goes as follows: Fuel is first drawn through the lower end via the tiny hole(s) (orifice) on the high speed needle adjuster, then through engine vacuum, fuel is drawn up through the tube, and over and down toward the idle air/fuel mixture screw (which sets at an angle), and then fuel is drawn into the throttle bore, next to the throttle plate. The information below Ê is mainly for Carter or Kohler carburetors. The fuel mixture screws are used as follows:

Many times when cleaning a Carter or Kohler carburetor, the welch plug that's on the side of the carburetor doesn't need to be removed. The only time it needs to be removed is when the tiny fuel feed hole that's next to the throttle plate becomes clogged with dried gas or debris. To clear this hole, with the idle air/fuel mixture screw and the high speed needle adjuster removed, thread a 1/4-28 UNF screw/bolt in place of the high speed needle adjuster (this will place more air pressure against the idle fuel feed hole), apply 150± PSI compressed air in the idle mixture screw hole, and place your finger inside the throttle bore over the fuel feed hole, and if you feel air come out of the hole, the hole is cleared out. If air does come out of the idle fuel feed hole, then the welch plug will need to be removed and manually cleared out with a carburetor jet cleaner wire set or an oxy-acetylene welding torch tip cleaner. A new welch plug will need to be installed.


Why Won't a Kohler Engine Start (When Hot or Cold) with the Throttle Plate and Choke Plate in the Open Position?


If an engine blows black smoke out the exhaust while running, then here are the main causes:

Black exhaust smoke is when an engine is getting too much gas and/or not enough air in the combustion chamber. The causes for this are either... (listed from most common to rare causes)

  1. Choke plate isn't fully opening.
    • Solution: Check for bent choke plate, binding of remote solid wire cable-controlled choke operation or adjust cable that controls opening/closing of choke plate.
  2. Too rich of fuel mixture adjustment on the carburetor.
    • Solution: Adjust carburetor or repair as needed.
  3. Worn float valve (needle and seat).
    • Solution: Install new float valve and seat.
  4. Bad float.
    • Solution: Install new or good used float.
  5. Float out of adjustment.
    • Solution: Set the float level so it's parallel with the carburetor body with the carburetor turned upside-down.
  6. If the fuel baffle/splash shield is hard and stiff, it can push down on the float after the float bowl is installed, preventing the float from shutting off the fuel at the float valve (needle and seat).
    • Solution: Install new fuel baffle/splash shield.
  7. Too much fuel pressure if using a high pressure electric fuel pump (more than 4 PSI).
  8. Hole (orifice) in the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube) have been drilled too large.
    • Solution: Either plug the hole (orifice) with electrical solder and soldering gun, and redrill to .0625" (1/16") or install new main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube).
  9. Only one [Kohler or aftermarket] condenser being used with a high-output/performance ignition coil.
    • Solution: Install two [Kohler or aftermarket] condensers or one automotive (Chevrolet/GM) distributor condenser.

Also, sometimes flooding of the carburetor will deposit gas in the motor oil, but only in a vertical shaft engine. Because gas can't seep into the crankcase on horizontal shaft engines. The cause of the problem is the carburetor is flooding. The gas seeps past the piston ring gaps and into the crankcase. To fix this, clean the float valve (needle and seat) in the carburetor, or install a new carburetor overhaul/rebuild kit with a new float valve needle and seat. Also, clean out the fuel hoses with 150± PSI compressed air and install a new fuel filter. And then the oil will need to be drained and fresh motor oil installed.


The Cause of Slight Carburetor Flooding or "Loading Up on Fuel" at Slow Idle with a High Performance/Long Duration Camshaft -

Sometimes when using a high performance/long duration camshaft, regardless if the engine has a stock or modified carburetor, if the engine idles for a long period of time, it may run rich on fuel at a slow idle speed. What causes this is with a long duration cam, intake vacuum is low and with a single cylinder engine, being the valves stay open longer, excess fuel builds up in the carburetor and/or intake tube. All engines with a long duration camshaft have lower than normal vacuum at slow idle. The longer the duration a cam has, the lower the vacuum. What causes excess fuel to build up in the intake is the long duration of the cam lobes holds the [intake] valve open longer, and at slow idle, pressure of the piston moving upward in the cylinder blows some of the air/fuel back into the carburetor and/or intake tube. And as the engine is revved up, raw unburned fuel black smoke (gas) will blow out the exhaust pipe until the fuel is cleared out of the carburetor and/or intake tube. With the engine running well above idle, air becomes trapped within the combustion chamber and the piston don't have time to push any air/fuel back into the carburetor and/or intake tube. This happens with all types of fuels and there's nothing that can be done about it. It's the nature of the long duration camshaft. Some might think when this happens that there's something wrong with the carburetor, and nothing can be done to the idle fuel passageway to prevent this. Just make a simple adjustment with the idle air/fuel mixture screw, set the engine at a fast idle and don't allow the engine to idle for a long period of time. [Return To Previous Paragraph, Section or Website]

The Major Causes of Carburetor Flooding -

FYI - I don't put any additives in my gas. I think it's a waste of money and effort, and gives false hope. I filter out the dirt and remove any water from the [somewhat fresh] left-over gas that's in my customer's small engine equipment, and dump it in my personal car or truck so it will mix with the fresh gas that's already in the tank. Then I always use fresh/purchased gas with no additives in my customer's small engine equipment.

What prevents most carburetor and fuel system from having problems when using gasoline is to run the engine out of fuel or draining the entire fuel system if it's not going to be used for more than 30 days at a time. If there's no fuel left in the system, then there should be no problems. The following causes are listed from most common to rare.

If fuel drips out of or from the carburetor...

  1. Dirt/debris, lint or hair lodged between float valve and seat. This will prevent the float valve from fully closing against the seat.
    • Solution: Clean float valve and seat, clear out entire fuel system with 150± PSI compressed air and install new fuel filter.
  2. Old, deteriorated pleated paper fuel filter. The filtering material is brittle, can tear easy, which will allow dirt/debris to pass through the torn opening.
    • Solution: Clean carburetor, clear out entire fuel system with 150± PSI compressed air and install new fuel filter.
  3. 150± PSI compressed air blown through pleated paper fuel filter too many times to clean it out. This will cause the filtering material to tear, rip or "blow out," allowing dirt/debris to pass through the torn opening.
    • Solution: Clean carburetor, clear out entire fuel system with 150± PSI compressed air and install new fuel filter.
  4. Worn or damaged fuel inlet valve and/or seat.
    • Solution: New replacement required.
  5. Loose float valve seat in carburetor body (if it's the threaded-in type). Sometimes these are not installed tight enough, resulting in a light flooding condition.
    • Solution: If tightening the seat doesn't stop the fuel leak, then a new float valve and seat with a new sealing gasket will need to be installed.
  6. Fuel leak at the carburetor float bowl rubber O-ring seal. Only happens when engine is in operation. Circumference of float bowl not sealing tight against the neoprene rubber O-ring seal and fuel baffle/splash shield in carburetor body.
    • Solution: Remove float bowl, and from inside the bowl, use a small to medium size hammer to flatten the area around the hole where the bolt fastens the float bowl to the carburetor body. Doing this will place more pressure on the circumference of the float bowl against the carburetor body so the O-ring will seal better. Don't over-tighten the float bowl bolt because the threads in the carburetor could strip out. Also, make sure the O-ring and fuel baffle/splash shield are in place when reinstalling the float bowl.

If gas constantly pours out of the carburetor...

  1. Bad or damaged float (hole in float). To test for a bad float, if it's a hollow brass float, remove it from the carburetor and either move it around in your hand or hold it next to your ear. If you feel and hear a sloshing sound, then there's gas inside it. NOTE: Repairing by re-soldering a brass float will most likely not work or last long. NOTE: Do NOT use a propane torch or small oxy-acetylene torch to solder a hole in a brass float that had gas in it! The gas fumes inside WILL cause the float to explode!
    • Solution: New or good/used float replacement is required.
  2. Small hole in bottom of float bowl. This happens to aluminum float bowls and is caused by corrosion from water in the fuel system. Water is heavier than gas. So it goes below the gas and straight to the carburetor. Water will corrode an aluminum float bowl. And during winter, it'll freeze in the float bowl and crush the float.
    • Solution: New replacement of either part is required.
  3. Float stuck to bottom of float bowl. This is caused by engine setting in long term storage with gas left in the fuel tank and carburetor. To prevent this from happening at all or happening in the future, drain the entire fuel system, then loosen the float bowl retaining bolt to finish draining all the fuel from the float bowl.
    • Solution: Cleaning of float and bottom of bowl is required. The best way to remove built-up stuck and stubborn debris from inside the float bowl is to use a 2" brass wire cup brush (shown to the right) with a hand-held power drill, and then use 150± PSI compressed air to clear out the debris from the main jet hole and clear out the entire float bowl area of the carburetor.
  4. Float valve installed incorrectly. (When installing a new overhaul/rebuild kit.)
    • Solution: The rubber tip (pointed end) goes in the fuel inlet seat and not against the float.
  5. If the carburetor on an engine has been setting for some time without an air cleaner/filter assembly, and if gas pours out of the carburetor only when cranking the engine, especially with a mechanical fuel pump, then the gas stops pouring out when the engine isn't cranked, check for a clogged atmospheric vent opening (air passageway from inside the float bowl area to outside of carburetor) in the carburetor. Sometimes a mud dauber (wasp-like insect) will build their nest in a place like this. (I've seen this happen a few times with my customer carburetor rebuilds.)
    • Solution: Clear out the atmospheric vent opening (air passageway from inside the float bowl area to outside of carburetor) and entire carburetor with 150± PSI compressed air.
  6. If an electric fuel pump is used, it is either producing too much pressure, or if there's a fuel pressure regulator in-line, it's set too high or stuck in position.

What makes crankcase oil black is blow-by due to either worn piston rings, carburetor flooding or the engine running rich on fuel (gas). And if there's gas in the oil (you can smell the presence of gas), this means there's a hole in the diaphragm in the mechanical fuel pump. Being there are no fuel pump repair kits available nowadays, an either good used or new replacement fuel pump is required.

How to Separate Gasoline from Water -

No need to dispose of fresh gas just because it's contaminated with water (and/or dirt and debris). And with the price of gas nowadays, this would be a wise thing to do.

  1. Drain the water-contaminated gas from the entire fuel system (fuel tank, fuel hose, fuel pump, filter and carburetor) into a clean container of adequate size. When gas is contaminated with water, the water (and dirt/debris) should immediately settle to the bottom of the container and the gas will be on top. You should be able to see the water at the bottom with a bright light.
  2. To separate the gas from the water, carefully pour the gas into another clean container, but watch that the water don't enter the other container, too. If there's dirt/debris floating around or suspended in the water-contaminated gas, place a filtering material, such as a paint filter, coffee filter, fine mesh screen wire, clean cloth shop towel or a fine woven fabric window curtain drooped into a large funnel in a clean container of adequate size, and pour the gas through the filtering material/funnel, and again, watch that the water don't enter the other container. The water can be seen under the gas.
    • NOTE: Adding gas line anti-freeze (alcohol) breaks up or disperse the water into tiny droplets throughout the gas, which then pose no freezing. But if there's A LOT of water in the gas, then the water-contaminated gas will need to be drained and flushed from the entire fuel system. Being water is heavier than gas, it will always go to the bottom in a container or gas tank. With a bright light, you can see the water from the gas in an open container. The water will be at the bottom and the gas will be on top. The water can be separated from the gas by using two containers - pour the gas from the first container into the second container and do not allow the water get into the second container. The gas can still be reused. If the gas has any amount of alcohol (10% or E85), the alcohol will be absorbed by or mixed with the water, to save the alcohol content with the gas, pour the 10%/E85 gas/water from the first container through a genuine (not synthetic) chamois leather (real sheep's skin) drooped into the second container. The chamois must first be soaked with clean gasoline, then the chamois will soak up or absorb the water and allow the alcohol and gas to pass through. Squeeze the water from the chamois, hang it up to dry out, and it can be used for next time.
  3. Use 150± PSI compressed air to clear out the remaining water-contaminated gas from the entire fuel system and use a dry shop towel or water-absorbing paper towel clamped to a long needle nosed pliers to soak up the gas/water in the fuel tank. If necessary, use a sealed flashlight (to prevent a possible explosion due to gas fumes) to see if the tank is 100% dry.
  4. Pour the water-free gas back in the fuel tank and dispose of the contaminated water in the container.

DANGER! IMPORTANT! Gasoline and alcohol fuels are both extremely flammable! Use caution and don't smoke, avoid making sparks or don't have an open flame exposed when working near or with either of them. Work in a well-ventilated area, too.

By the way - We've been to a lot of garden tractor pulls through the years and noticed that some pulling tractors leak fuel in places where a fuel leak shouldn't be. Therefore, I think the safety inspections should include checking the fuel hoses for dry-rotting, cracks, fuel leaks, loose fittings, etc. (The tractors should have sturdy wheelie bars, too.) The inspectors should grab hold of the fuel hose(s) with their hand, bend it and slightly jerk on it to check for durability. This is very important. Especially in a kid's class. Don't wait until a small issue becomes a major problem, then turn in to a catastrophe. If a pulling club's sanctioning safety rules are enforced, and pullers would build their tractors right and maintain them regularly, there wouldn't be any injuries, fires, or fear of a fire. Click or tap here to read more about a garden pulling tractor catching on fire.


If an engine won't idle or idles poorly, if it's a Carter or Kohler carburetor, chances are, there's old, dried gas inside the high speed air/fuel needle adjuster stem/tube. To fix this: first, enlarge the lower hole with a 1/32" drill bit. Then use a small, bendable steel wire, such as a bread wrapper wire twist tie with the coating stripped off, to clean out inside the tube. Then use the 150± PSI compressed air to thoroughly clear it out. Suck through the tube with your mouth to make sure it's clear and unclogged. If performing this won't clear out the tube, then acquire a new high speed air/fuel needle adjuster screw or one in good condition. But make sure it's the correct adjuster for your particular carburetor! (This is how I clear these out whenever I rebuild a Carter or Kohler carburetor and it works great. I rarely replace the high speed adjuster with a new one.)

If an engine idles slow when the throttle lever is held to the slowest position by hand, but refuses to idle down on its own, the following may be the causes:

But if an engine idles well, but runs only at higher RPM (up to 3,200 RPM with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet; or 3,600 RPM with an adjustable main jet) with the choke partially closed, or if it surges or hesitates to rev up, this means the engine is running too lean on fuel, and following are the most likely causes: (listed from most common to rare)

FYI - If the spark plug's tip is black and/or has wet gas on it, and if the carburetor has been thoroughly cleaned (multiple times), but you think the problem is still in the carburetor, well, the carburetor is probably working fine because the engine is obviously getting plenty of fuel. As an older, experienced mechanic once said: "Most carburetor problems are electrical." Meaning faulty/weak ignition system. This have been proven true more times than I can remember.


Backfiring out the exhaust upon deceleration is normal for virtually all engines since gas is still going through the combustion chamber, compressing in the exhaust and exploding from the exhaust heat. But if an engine constantly backfires out the exhaust at any speeds after running for several minutes, the problem may be...


The fuel solenoid used on newer Briggs & Stratton, Kohler, etc., engines is located on the bottom of the float bowl. The spring-loaded plunger in it stops the fuel supply to the combustion chamber by blocking off the main jet as soon as the ignition is turned off. With this type of fuel solenoid, the engine will die immediately when the ignition is turned off. This solenoid also prevents a loud BANG out the muffler when the ignition is turned off while the engine is hot. Without it, when the [hot] engine is turned off while throttled up, unburned gas will continue to pass through the combustion chamber, build up in the still red-hot muffler where the gas is compressed with hot air, and then produce a loud BANG out the muffler.

The solenoid is supposed to make a "click" sound when the ignition is turned on. When in doubt rather it's the solenoid that's defective or bad wiring on the tractor, the solenoid can be tested with a 12 volt battery. With the solenoid removed from the carburetor, connect the battery positive (+) post to the solenoid wire, and connect the battery negative (–) post to the body of the solenoid. If the plunger quickly withdraws in the solenoid body, it's in good condition. If it doesn't withdraw, then the wire connecting to the solenoid has an open in it.

If the solenoid fails to function, it can be replaced with a new one, or remove it and simply snip off the protruding pin (plunger rod), and reinstall it. Doing this will allow the engine to draw fuel and run. But remember to idle the engine down for a few minutes each time before shutting it off, or like I said, it may produce a loud BANG out the muffler.

Advertisement:
If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle, tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're planning to relocate our business our business to other property with a bigger and better shop so we can hire more help and provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)

Kohler Anti-Backfire/Engine Shut-Off Solenoid Valve Kit. The anti-backfire solenoid valve [in the carburetor] shuts off the engine when the ignition is turned off. The valve only blocks off the main jet in the carburetor to prevent fuel from entering the combustion chamber. It does not prevent fuel off from entering the float bowl. The way the solenoid works is, upon engine shut down, the valve blocks air from entering the float bowl through the atmospheric vent opening (air passageway from inside the float bowl area to outside of carburetor; which is where the solenoid valve is located). When this happens, the engine can't draw fuel, so it shuts down. The solenoid is energized the entire time the ignition switch is on. The reason Kohler installed this feature is to prevent the engine from producing a loud backfire sound (BANG!) out the muffler when it's shut off. With the solenoid in working condition and upon engine shut down, no unburned fuel enters the hot muffler, therefore, no backfire. When the solenoid fails to function, the engine will not start. This particular part is designed for Kohler engine models K181 with specification numbers 13802, 13803, 13804, 13805, 13806, 13807, 13808, 13809, 13810, 13811, 13812, 13813, 13814, 13815, 13816, 13817, 13818, 13820, 30671, 30715, 30739; M18 with specification numbers 24610, 24637, 24652; M20 with specification numbers 49547, 49564, 49605; K582 with specification numbers 36246, 36249, 36261, 36266, 36268, 36285, 36310, 36327, 36337, 36350, 36371, 36373, 36374, 36376, 36382, 36392, 24600, 24603. OEM Kohler part # 25 755 05-S. $82.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

NOTE: Being the solenoid (OEM Kohler part # 25 755 06-S) for Kohler engine models M18 with specification numbers 24563, 24568, 24574, 24577, 24592, 24594, 24599, 24619, 24630, 24631, 24636, 24646, 24655, 24656, 24659, 24664, 24674, 24696; M20 with specification numbers 49514, 49544, 49545, 49565, 49569, 49570, 49572, 49584, 49595, 49599, 49608, 49623, 49624, 49629; MV20 with specification numbers 57527, 57528 is no longer available, to convert these engines without use of the solenoid, remove the failed solenoid and valve, cut some short threads in the hole (remove the float bowl first and use compressed air to clear out the metal cuttings), and install a 3/8" Allen set screw in the hole. Don't thread the set screw deep in the hole, or it will block off outside atmospheric air from entering the float bowl. Without a solenoid, the engine would require a different ignition switch to shut off the spark. And the engine should be idled down before shutting it off to lessen the chance of a backfire out the muffler.

How To Loosen a Gummed-Up, Stuck, Corroded or Rusted-In-Place Throttle or Choke Shaft, or Adjusting Screw -

EVAPO-RUST® and Metal Rescue are very safe products to use and works wonders to remove rust and loosen virtually any rusted or corroded metal part! Just soak the carburetor body for 1 hour for light rust and up to 12 hours for extremely heavy rust. Then use small locking pliers (Vise Grip) to GENTLY rotate the shaft back and forth . Don't force it because it could become twisted and/or break off at the closest plate retaining screw hole! It may rotate (loosen) just a few thousandths of an inch. After it rotates slightly, spray it again and gently rotate it again. Eventually, it should rotate more and swivel 100% free. These products are very safe to use and they work wonders on virtually anything that's rusted!

Or use a heavy duty bathroom toilet bowl cleaner. Most of them will remove rust and scale. If it reads on the label that it will remove rust, then that's the one to use. Pour the cleaner in a container that's large enough for the carburetor body, and allow it to soak for about 30 minutes and then rinse it off with water. The throttle or choke shaft should swivel with no problems.

Or use distilled white vinegar to remove rust from the outside of gas tanks, tools, bolts/nuts, clutch pressure plates or virtually any exterior steel or cast iron object. Check it out here: vinegar rust removal - YouTube. Distilled white vinegar will not remove rust from inside a gas tank because it cannot be "rubbed loose" by hand from inside the tank.

GUNK Liquid Wrench® also works wonders to loosen virtually any rusted or corroded metal part! Just spray the ends of the throttle or choke shaft, let soak for about 30 minutes or perhaps overnight, then use small locking pliers (Vise Grip) to GENTLY rotate the shaft back and forth . Don't force it because it could become twisted and/or break off at the closest plate retaining screw hole! It may rotate (loosen) just a few thousandths of an inch. After it rotates slightly, spray it again and gently rotate it again. Eventually, it should rotate more and swivel 100% free.

If the shaft(s) refuse to loosen with either Evapo-Rust, Liquid Wrench or heavy duty bathroom toilet bowl cleaner, remove the float bowl, float, fuel baffle/splash shield and O-ring seal. Clamp the carburetor in a bench vice, then use a propane torch or an oxy-acetylene torch to LIGHTLY heat the carburetor body next to the shaft (don't get the carburetor body too hot!), and use the locking pliers (Vise Grip) to GENTLY rotate the shaft back and forth . The shaft should swivel 100% free within a few seconds of heating. Heating might also work to remove a stuck-in-place idle speed adjuster screw, idle fuel mixture screw or the main adjuster screw. Be very gentle rotating a brass screw to loosen it because being brass is a soft metal, it could snap off! And be careful not to get cast aluminum too hot, it may crumble or split into pieces! Don't use a torch in an attempt to remove a stuck main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube) from a carburetor that's in good condition. Being the aluminum surrounding the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube) is thin, it will most likely crumble or split into pieces under the severe heat, rendering the carburetor useless.

How to Clean the Inside of a Heavily Rusted or Dirty Metal Fuel Tank -

Fill the fuel tank with EVAPO-RUST®, Metal Rescue, or a heavy duty bathroom toilet bowl cleaner. Most of these will remove rust and scale. If it reads on the label that it will remove rust, then that's the one to use. Leave it for 1 hour for light rust and up to 12 hours for extremely heavy rust, drain and flush with clean water, allow to thoroughly dry. These products are very safe to use and they work wonders on virtually anything that's rusted! Or use distilled white vinegar to remove rust from inside gas tanks, tools, bolts/nuts, clutch pressure plates or virtually any steel or cast iron part: vinegar rust removal - YouTube.

Another method to clean an internally rusted or especially dirty fuel tank, put some small driveway gravel in the tank with water, seal the fuel outlet fitting and gas cap vent holes (make sure the gas cap has a good seal), then literally and vigorously shake the heck out of it! Or for less tiresome labor, put the gravel and water in the tank, seal it up, securely tie a blanket around it and then put it in a clothes dryer or fasten it in an electric paint shaker. Set the dryer on the cold or "No Heat" setting, and let the dryer tumble or paint shaker shake for a couple of hours. When the water is drained and majority of the gravel removed, use a garden water hose to thoroughly clean out inside the tank. It should look new inside. If there's still some rust or dirt/debris in it, repeat the process until all the rust or dirt/debris is broken loose. And despite of what you've probably heard, putting sugar in a fuel tank will NOT ruin the engine! Don't believe in everything you hear. Read about it here: snopes.com: Sugar in the fuel tank. YouTube link: Sugar in Your Gas Engine Fuel Tank.

How to Repair a Hole in a Metal Fuel or Oil Storage Tank -

If virtually any kind of ferrous metal (steel) tank have a rusted or dented hole in it and leaks fuel or liquid, it can be successfully repaired by using a quality-made fuel tank sealant. But if the hole is too large for the sealant, and if the tank is made of steel, a reputable automotive radiator repair shop can solder a [tin] patch over the hole. Then ask them to pressure test the tank filled with air submerged in water to see if the patched hole leaks (bubbles). They usually have rubber expansion plugs of various sizes to block-off the inlet and outlet openings or ports.


How to Remove the Soft Brass Retaining Screws from the Carter or Kohler Throttle or Choke Shafts Without Breaking Them Off -

First of all, I hate when people throw away a reusable throttle or choke shaft just because it has a broken off screw in it. The only reason most carburetor manufacturers install soft brass screws in the throttle and choke shafts for the throttle and choke plates is because the protruding threaded ends can be easily flared. This saves the factory money from not having to use lock washers or liquid threadlocker. This prevents the screws from loosening and dislodging from the throttle shaft and becoming lodged between the intake valve and seat, or from being sucked into the combustion chamber, and damage the cylinder head and piston.

When removing these screws and to prevent from breaking them off, first, grind down the protruding/flared ends with a Dremel or equivalent small rotary grinder chucked with either a very small grinding stone (chainsaw sharpening stone) or an 1/8" high speed steel end mill until the threads are flush with the shaft. Then the screws can be easily removed from the shaft without breaking them off. Be sure to use a quality-made screwdriver with a flat blade and square edge that fits the slot in the screw head perfectly to prevent from distorting or "stripping out" the slot, too. (This is why I use and offer for sale hardened stainless steel screws [with split lock washers]. Unlike [OEM] soft brass screws, stainless steel will not strip out or break off.)

But should a brass screw break off in the throttle or choke shaft without first grinding down the protruding/flared end, sometimes the shaft can be difficult to remove from the carburetor body due to the protruding flared end. Or if the slot in the screw head gets "stripped-out." In this case, use the Dremel to grind the flared end of the [broken] screw and/or grind off the head of the screw until it's flush with the shaft. Then the shaft can be removed. Afterwards, the broken screw can be drilled out using a milling machine clamped in a vise with a 1/16" center bit drill to make a small depression in the exact center of the broken screw to prevent "drill bit skating" so either a 5/64", #46 or 2mm drill bit can be used to drill out the rest of the broken screw, and then the threads may need to be straightened/cleaned with a 3-48 UNC taper hand tap. Don't use a center punch on the broken screw. This could bend the shaft, create a crack when straightened, possibly cause it to break later when in use. The throttle and choke shafts in Carter and Kohler carburetors originally come with 3-48 UNC screws. A #3 split lock washer should be used with a 3-48 UNC screw. Should the threaded hole become enlarged from drilling out the broken screw, the hole(s) can be made bigger with a 4-40 UNC tap, and a 4-40 UNC screw with a #4 split lock washer will need to be installed. By the way - liquid threadlocker is not required with a lock washer. [Return To Previous Paragraph or Website]


Correct Orientation and Installation of the Throttle Plate and Choke Plate -

All OEM factory-made throttle plates, rather small engine, automotive, farm tractor engine, etc., are made 3% oblong and have a slight angle on the sides that seal against the sides of the throttle bore. The angle and oblong shape prevents the majority of incoming air from entering the combustion chamber in the idle position so the engine can idle at a slow speed. To reinstall the throttle plate correctly, on the Carter, Kohler and Walbro carburetors that's used on Kohler engines, the C (Carter), K (Kohler) or W (Walbro) stamped on the throttle plate faces outward and toward your right when facing the throttle bore with the carburetor positioned right side up and float bowl down (as shown in the picture to the right à), and make sure the throttle plate is centered with the throttle bore in the fully closed position when the screws are installed and tightened. Back off the idle speed adjustment screw to allow the throttle plate to be in the fully closed position. Then use the tips of small [pointy] needle-nose pliers to align the holes in the throttle (or choke plate) with the screw holes in the throttle (or choke shaft). If the throttle plate is installed in reverse or not 100% centered with the throttle bore, too much air will by-pass the throttle plate and the engine will not be able to idle down at a slow speed. Most aftermarket (Chinese-made) oblong throttle plates are not stamped with a letter and don't have an angle on the sides, so they can be installed in either direction, and they'll still seal 100% and the engine should idle down just as well.

And when reinstalling a choke plate, make sure it's centered with the carburetor intake in the fully closed position. If the choke plate is not aligned with the carburetor intake in the fully closed position, the engine will be hard to start or may not start at all.

IMPORTANT! Be sure to use a split lock washer of the correct size on the throttle plate and choke plate retaining screws or apply medium strength liquid threadlocker on the threads of the screws to prevent the screw from becoming dislodged from the shaft and possibly being sucked into the combustion chamber, resulting in a possible bent intake valve, damaged valve seat or severe damage to the piston, cylinder head and/or cylinder wall. [Return To Previous Paragraph or Website]


How to Remove the Main Jet/Nozzle (Emulsion Tube) from a Carter or Kohler #26, #28 or #30 Carburetor -

10-18hp Kohler (or Carter [model N]) CarburetorWhen rebuilding a plain, stock Carter or Kohler #26, #28 or #30 carburetor, there is really no need to remove the main jet/nozzle. If the main jet/nozzle will not come out, don't worry about it. All that has to be done is make sure that the bottom hole and side holes in the main jet/nozzle are open. To check if the side holes are open, simply spray WD-40 or aerosol carburetor cleaner through the small hole just beneath the choke plate and observe if it comes out the main jet/nozzle inside the throttle bore and float bowl area.

But if the main jet/nozzle is clogged, or if you're boring the venturi to modify/rework the carburetor for high performance use, then the main jet/nozzle must be removed. Before attempting to remove the main jet/nozzle, and if the screwdriver slot is in good condition, then I found the best, easiest and proven way to remove it is by the following process. This method works great most of the time and the main jet/nozzle should loosen with no problems.

  1. Remove the idle fuel mixture screw (so it won't get bent) and the high speed needle adjuster so the tip won't get damaged when performing the below Ê procedure.
  2. Cradle the carburetor body upside down (float area facing up) lengthways on the open jaws of a large bench vise.
  3. Place a hand impact tool or a quality-made flat blade screwdriver with a good, square end wide enough to fit the entire width of the threaded hole and thick enough for more contact with the slot in the main jet/nozzle.
  4. Using a medium size hammer, strike the impact driver or screwdriver sharply and perpendicular several times while at the same time rotating the main jet/nozzle counterclockwise by hand (with the screwdriver) to loosen it. Do not use a wooden handle screwdriver because the handle could break.
  5. If the above È didn't work, then perform the removal method below Ê.

If the above È method still didn't work, then unfortunately, sometimes the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube) will get stuck in place and the screwdriver slot will strip out. (I hate when this happens.) Do not use an Easy Out [Broken] Screw Extractor! With this tool, the tapered shape will force the main jet/nozzle to swell or spread outward (cause it to increase in diameter), and the deeper it goes, it could possibly crack the aluminum tube, rendering the carburetor body useless. The alternative method to remove the main jet/nozzle is to drill it out. This process is performed as follows:

  1. First, remove the high speed needle adjuster so it will not interfere with the main jet/nozzle and get damaged.
  2. Firmly clamp the carburetor body with the mounting and choke ends making contact with the jaws of a bench vise with the float area facing up.
  3. Drill perpendicular directly through the center of the main jet/nozzle with a 3/16" drill bit, then carefully enlarge the hole with a 9/32" drill bit, and finally finish drilling the hole with a 19/64" drill bit. Drill about 1" depth into the main jet/nozzle.
  4. Being very gentle, use a long, slender taper punch with a very pointed end and a small hammer to collapse the thin threads of the main jet/nozzle. NOTE: Be extremely careful when doing this! Because the aluminum tube could crack, rendering the carburetor body totally useless.
  5. Pry out the remains of the main jet/nozzle with needle-nose pliers. If you're not able to remove the entire main jet/nozzle with needle-nose pliers, insert a 3/16" diameter steel rod through the high speed needle adjuster hole and drive out the remains of the main jet/nozzle. May have to hold the rod angled through the hole so it can make contact with the end of the nozzle to drive it out.
  6. With the main jet/nozzle removed, use a 3/8-24 UNF plug hand tap to reshape and clean the threads for installation of another main jet/nozzle. Install a new main jet/nozzle, or a good used one from a junk carburetor. If the main jet/nozzle in a junk carburetor is stuck, you can just split the threaded tube with either a flat cold chisel, nut splitter or heat the tube with a propane torch or an oxy-acetylene torch until it splits apart. If attempting to use the flat cold chisel or nut splitter, be careful not to damage the main jet/nozzle itself!


How to Remove the Main Jet/Nozzle (Emulsion Tube) from a Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20 or #22 Carburetor for Cleaning -

If the main jet/nozzle in a Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20 or #22 carburetor that's used on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161 or K181 needs to be removed for cleaning, being this type of nozzle is pressed in the carburetor body. It removes and reinstalls a lot easier than the above È main jet/nozzle. The removal and installation process is as follows:

  1. Remove the idle fuel mixture screw (so it won't get bent upon reinstallation of the main jet/nozzle), high speed needle adjuster, float bowl and float.
  2. Place the carburetor body right-side up (float area facing down) on the open jaws of a bench vise. Position the carburetor body crossways on the vise jaws so the float hinge loops won't break off. Do not tighten the vise jaws against the carburetor body.
  3. Using a 4" length x 11/64" (.172") diameter steel punch with a blunt end and a small hammer, go through the high speed needle hole from the top side of the carburetor, and drive the main jet/nozzle out from the bottom of carburetor body.
  4. To reinstall the main nozzle, place the carburetor body upside-down on the open jaws of the vise and use a 1/4" diameter steel [roll pin] punch and small hammer to drive it in until it bottoms out, and the end can be seen in the venturi.

By the way - as far as I know, new main jet/nozzles for the Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20 or #22 carburetor is not available from any source.


How to Remove a Broken-Off High Speed Air/Fuel Mixture Adjustment Needle Screw from a Carter or Kohler Carburetor -

Sometimes when an engine sits with gas in the fuel system, the old, dried gas residue will cause the high speed adjuster to become seized in the carburetor body. And when attempting to remove it, the hollow tube could will break off flush with the carburetor body. (Anything is possible with soft brass and old, dried gas.) Anyway, The removal process of a broken-off main adjuster is as follows:

  1. Reach in through the choke end with needle-nose pliers or small long/needle-nose Vise-Grips locking pliers and break off the needle part of the adjuster.
  2. From the top of the carburetor body, drill out the threaded part of the adjuster with a 3/16" drill bit, then work up to a 7/32" bit. Be sure to drill straight down into the adjuster! For precision and full control of the drilling process, this is best performed with the carburetor body clamped in a vice that's fastened on the table of a milling machine. (The broken adjuster may screw on out on its own when drilling it.)
  3. If it don't screw out when drilling it, use a long, slender taper punch with a very pointed end to collapse the remains of the adjuster so it can be removed with the needle-nose pliers.
  4. Use a 1/4-28 UNF plug hand tap to straighten and clean the threads for installation of another adjuster.

If you don't feel comfortable removing the broken adjuster yourself, I charge $30.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling, to remove a broken adjuster.


Using Pump Gas with 10% Ethanol Versus 100% Race Gas in a Pulling Tractor -

First of all, in an daily-driven vehicle, gasoline with no lead is hard on soft cast iron exhaust valve seats. A soft cast iron valve seat is one that's been machined directly into an engine block or cylinder head, and it have not been heated-treated or no hardened insert is installed. In a daily-driven automobile, the seat(s) will eventually deteriorate or the metal will literally "wear away" because the absence of lead in gas to provide a protective coating to prevent wear. And being most exhaust valves are made of extremely hardened steel, they're not likely to wear at all. The intake valve and the cast iron seat is not likely to wear as much, if any. And an engine block or cylinder head with heat-treated seats or have hardened steel exhaust valve seat insert(s) installed, they should not wear whatsoever.

Anyway, the 10% ethanol in pump gas (common everyday automotive fuel) lessens exhaust emissions. Plus, the alcohol content boosts the octane, making it somewhat of a high performance fuel. The lead content in race gas (VP Racing Fuel, Turbo Blue, Sunoco, Torco, etc.) boosts the octane also, except it's alcohol-free to pass the tech fuel test for tractor pulling. And the valve seat(s) that's ground in a cast iron block in a pulling engine burning 87 octane unleaded regular gas should last a long time, no longer than the tractor runs down the track (2-3 minutes per pull). They're not being driven a long distance, like in a car or truck. Click or tap here to learn how to test for alcohol content in gasoline. (Requires Adobe Acrobat Reader and use Google Chrome web browser for a faster download of websites with large files.)

Older-formula mothballs have also been used by drag racers to enhance the octane rating of fuel, by dissolving the mothballs in some of the fuel and filtering out the remains with a filter paper.

Adding 2-cycle engine oil to gasoline will also boost the octane rating of the gas because the oil slows down the combustion process. The length of the combustion burning process depends on the amount of oil added to the gas. The oil content will help lubricate the cylinder wall and valves.

Average Octane Rating of Various Fuels | Remember - Only high compression engines benefit from the use of high octane fuel to increase the power output. High octane fuels have no effect whatsoever and will not increase the power output when used in a low compression engine.
  • Regular unleaded automotive gasoline (without 10% ethanol): 87 octane.
  • Premium unleaded automotive gasoline with 10% ethanol: 91-92 octane.
  • Leaded aviation gas/jet fuel: 100 octane.
  • E30: 98.6 octane.
  • E85: 105 octane.
  • Liquefied Petroleum (LP) or Propane: 100-110 octane.
  • Leaded race gas (VP Racing Fuel, Turbo Blue, Sunoco, Torco, etc.): approximately 110 octane.
  • 100% methanol: 110 octane.
  • 100% ethanol: 110-112 octane.
  • 99% isopropyl alcohol (Main ingredient in rubbing alcohol and gas line antifreeze to disperse water in fuel): 120 octane.
  • Denatured alcohol: 130 octane.
  • Hydrogen fuel: approximately 130 octane.
  • Compressed Natural Gas (CNG): 130 octane.

By the way - I've never had problems with gas having 10% ethanol in any of my small engines or automotive engines. I don't know why anyone else would. Maybe that's because when one is having problems with a small engine not running right, it's much easier to just blame it on "bad gas" than to look for the real problem elsewhere with the engine. Remember - it takes three things to make an internal combustion engine run: carburetion, compression and ignition. A professional, thorough and energetic mechanic don't blame the problem on one thing and overlook the other two. Unless of course, he's lazy and looking to make some quick money by doing an easy fix.

NOTE: The main jet (and fuel inlet hole) should not be enlarged for alcohol-free, high octane racing gas, such as VP Racing fuel, Turbo Blue, Sunoco, Premium gas, or gas with 10% ethanol, because these fuels require the same air/fuel mixture ratio as for ordinary, low octane automotive gas. If the main jet hole (orifice) is intentionally enlarged for gasoline-based fuels, the engine will run too rich on fuel, and there'll be no way to lean it out. Click or tap here to learn how to test for alcohol content in gasoline. (Requires Adobe Acrobat Reader and use Google Chrome web browser for a faster download of websites with large files.)

Nostalgic Memorabilia -

Back in the day (early 1980s and earlier), gasoline at most filling service gas stations for various [automotive and other types of] engines were for the following compression ratios: For an engine with a compression ratio up to 9.25:1, it was safe to use Regular gasoline (low octane); if the compression ratio is between 9.25:1-10.50:1, the engine required Premium gasoline, which was also known as High Test gasoline in various locations (mid octane); and for compression ratios above 10.50:1, the engine required Ethyl gasoline (high octane). Nowadays, due to the lead content in Ethyl, it's been replaced with Premium Unleaded, which was also known as Super Unleaded in various locations. Actually, ALL gasoline back in the day contained lead to boost the octane and protect soft cast iron valve seats from wearing.

I'd also like to share this old gas station joke: Car owner that just pulled up to the pump at a full service gas station says to the gas station attendant: "Fill 'er up... Ethyl!"

Gas station attendant: "I'll fill up your car, but don't call me Ethel."

FYI - Until the late 1960s, certain Chevrolet small block muscle car engines had a compression ratio as high as 11.25:1, and certain Chevrolet [427] big block muscle car engines had a compression ratio as high as 14:1! (That was the good ol' days of hot rodding!) In fact, back in the day, Chevrolet was the only one out of the top three car manufacturers that had the highest compression ratio.

Using a Gravity Feed Fuel Flow System -

When burning gas only and if an engine is going to turn no faster than 4,000± RPM (governed limit; the factory setting of maximum RPM for virtually all small gas engines, including all of Kohler engines is 3,600), then a gravity feed fuel system with the fuel tank positioned higher than the carburetor, stock fuel fittings and fuel hose should work fine. (Gravity feed is defined as when the fuel is drawn by gravity; the lowest part of the fuel tank is positioned higher than the carburetor, and there's no fuel pump involved.) If the fuel tank sets higher than the carburetor, and if a large inside diameter fuel hose and fittings are used, and if the float level is set a little high, then a gravity feed fuel system should work great for a stock engine turning no more than 4,000 RPM.


Information About the Crankcase Vacuum-Operated/Pulse-Type Fuel Pump - NOTE: A fuel pump is required ONLY when any part of the gas tank is positioned lower than the carburetor. It pumps fuel up to the carburetor. Otherwise, if the lowest part of the tank is positioned higher than the carburetor, the engine can run on a gravity feed fuel system.

All vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel pumps operate off of the air pressure/vacuum inside an engine's crankcase. The moving piston(s) inside the crankcase create a pulsating effect of air ç back and forth to activate the pump's diaphragm. And all vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel pumps come with three fittings - one that connects to the engine crankcase, and an IN and OUT fuel hose fittings. It should read on the body of the pump which each fitting connects. But if it doesn't, then the fitting coming from the center of the pump connects to the crankcase port. And as for the other two fittings, one connects to the fuel tank outlet and the other fitting connects to the carburetor inlet.

If the engine in a lawn and garden tractor, or ATV/UTV sputters and/or dies after going over rough terrain, this could be caused by a defective vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel pump. Overtime, the fuel pump bodies become warped and oil in the crankcase is preventing air from pulsating the diaphragm the way it should. If the engine has a 12 volt electrical system with a charging system, it'll be better to install a 12 volt low pressure electric fuel pump. These rarely give trouble.

To test a plastic body vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel pump, first check that the fuel hose between the fuel tank and fuel pump is open and unobstructed, or if it has dry-rot cracks, which can cause a vacuum leak. To test it, disconnect the fuel hose from the fuel pump and wrap a shop/business towel or clean rag around an air blower nozzle and then insert the nozzle with the rag or towel in the fuel tank filler neck. Apply light air pressure in the tank. If fuel comes out of the fuel hose, then it's open. After that, reconnect the fuel hose to the fuel pump. To test the fuel pump itself, first check the hose that connects the fuel pump to the engine crankcase to see if it has a kink in it or if it has dry-rot cracks, which can also cause a vacuum leak. If it's in good condition, then the final step is to disconnect the fuel hose from the carburetor and with adequate amount of fuel in the fuel tank, crank the engine and at the same time observe how much fuel is being pumped out of the pump. If there seems to be adequate amount of fuel coming from it, hold your finger over the end of the line and while still cranking the engine, it should build up a small amount of pressure. If none or very little fuel comes out of the pump, then it's bad and needs replacing.

When a vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel pump fails to pump fuel, in most cases, the body of the fuel pump will become warped, causing a vacuum leak either from within or from the outside, preventing the diaphragm from pulsating. If the diaphragm is still flexible, chances are, the pump can be repaired by resurfacing the body halves on a wide, flat belt sander or large disc sander, or on the side of an abrasive metal cutting wheel on a electric chop saw (the kind that automotive muffler shops use) to remove any warpage and restore flatness. (Be sure to use eye protection!) If the body halves is warped, the sander will make contact where the screw holes are, but not between the screw holes.

If the bottom of the fuel tank is lower than the carburetor, then the engine definitely needs a fuel pump. If the engine didn't originally come with a fuel pump, and has no provision for a mechanical fuel pump and/or no 12 volt power output/supply to use a 12 volt low pressure electric fuel pump, here's how to install a universal vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel pump on virtually any small gas engine:

  1. A vacuum hose fitting can be installed in the valve (rocker arm) cover of an OHV engine, or fabricate a plate to cover the existing mechanical fuel pump opening. Remove the rocker cover, and drill a 21/32" hole in the desired location, and cut 1/8" NPT threads in the drilled hole, and then install an 1/8-NPT x 1/4" barbed end [fuel] hose fitting to serve as the vacuum-pulse-type port. Don't install the fitting in the outer crankcase breather cover on a flathead engine. It doesn't hold crankcase vacuum. The plate behind it with the reed valve does.
  2. (Added 2/19/21) A vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel pump will work well with the OEM Kohler styled fuel pump block-off cover plate (part # 240282-S) used on certain Kohler K-series engines with a 21/32" port hole drilled and threads cut with an 1/8" NPT hand tap, and an 1/8" NPT x 1/4" hose fitting installed.
  3. Or a vacuum hose fitting can be installed directly in the engine block/crankcase. To do this, locate a place on the crankcase that's easily accessible, drill a 21/32" hole in the desired location, and cut 1/8" NPT threads in the drilled hole. IMPORTANT - To prevent metal cuttings from entering inside the engine block/crankcase, apply 150± PSI compressed air through the oil fill opening or oil dipstick tube (tightly wrap a shop towel or plastic around the air nozzle) to create air pressure inside the crankcase so the metal cuttings will be blown outward and not enter inside the crankcase while drilling the hole and cutting the threads. Be sure to use eye protection, too!
  4. Install the [fuel] hose fitting in the threaded hole with plumber's thread sealing tape to guarantee a leak-proof seal to prevent any oil seepage.
  5. Connect a 1/4" I.D. neoprene rubber vacuum or fuel hose from the fitting to the appropriate fitting on the vacuum fuel pump (this will activate the pump).
  6. Connect a 1/4" I.D. fuel hose from the fuel tank to the fitting on the pump marked IN ç.
  7. Connect a 1/4" I.D. fuel hose from the carburetor to the fitting on the pump marked OUT è.
  8. Be sure to install clamps on the hoses/fittings to prevent a vacuum and/or fuel leak.
  9. Mount the fuel pump and position the hoses securely away from any exhaust heat. NOTE: It doesn't matter if a small amount of crankcase oil gets in the vacuum-pulse hose. This is normal and the fuel pump will still work just fine being air, along with the oil, will be pulsating back and forth , which activates the diaphragm in the pump that is created by the movement of the engine piston(s). [Return To Previous Paragraph, Section or Website]

Troubleshooting a Faulty Vacuum-Operated/Pulse-Type and Mechanical Fuel Pump -

If an engine sits for about one week or longer, if the fuel in the carburetor evaporates and it's hard to start, or fuel must be squirted into the carburetor to get the engine started, then this means that the vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel pump mechanical fuel pump may be bad. The inlet valve in the pump is leaking, which is allowing the fuel to drain back into the fuel tank with the engine off. As the pump tries to syphon fuel from the tank to refill the carburetor, it's unable because the inlet valve is bad. Solution: a new fuel pump will need to be installed. When a vacuum or mechanical fuel pump quits working, below Ê are the causes:
  • Gasket/diaphragm mating surfaces on pump halves warped, causing vacuum leak and/or external fuel leak.
    • Solution: Disassemble fuel pump, resurface both halves on a wide, flat belt sander or large disc sander, or on the side of an abrasive metal cutting wheel on a electric chop saw (the kind that automotive muffler shops use) to remove any warpage and restore flatness. (Be sure to use eye protection!) Deburr any rough edges afterwards.
  • Poppet valve dislodged from its cavity inside pump cover. (This happens often.)
    • Solution: Disassemble fuel pump, reinstall valve in its recess and carefully peen the metal or plastic around it. If the valve won't stay in place, the only option is to acquire another good fuel pump cover, or an entire fuel pump. By the way - the halves of the plastic and metal body fuel pumps cannot be interchanged.
  • Corrosion damage due to contamination with water.
    • Solution: If it can't be cleaned internally, acquire another good fuel pump.
  • Deteriorated diaphragm. (This is rare, and there'll be presence of gas in the crankcase oil.)
    • Solution: Being no rebuild kits are available, the only option is to acquire a good diaphragm from a damaged fuel pump, or acquire an entire good fuel pump. By the way - the diaphragm in the plastic and metal body fuel pumps cannot be interchanged. And the rebuild kit for a Kohler mechanical fuel pump is no longer available from Kohler. And if you do find a kit online, it's like $90.00. A new high quality aftermarket mechanical fuel pump is about half that much!
  • Cracked (split) threads in tapered threaded inlet or outlet ports. (This happens when the tapered thread fuel fittings are over-tightened.)
    • Solution: Acquire another good fuel pump cover, or an entire fuel pump. By the way - the cover of the plastic and metal body fuel pumps cannot be interchanged.


What Exactly Is "Vapor Lock"?

Vapor lock only happens with certain older carbureted cars and trucks with a mechanical fuel pump that's fastened to the engine block. Vapor lock occurs when the [metal] gas line is too close to the hot exhaust, and when the vehicle is in slow traffic, the fuel is moving very slow in the line. Due to extreme heat from the exhaust and on a hot day, and the fan blade not blowing that much air past the exhaust, sometimes the heat will cause the gas to boil, forming air bubbles or air pockets, and the fuel vaporizes, and then the fuel pump can't pump vaporized fuel (air). So as soon as the carburetor runs out of fuel, the engine stalls. The fuel pump will "lock" with vapors trapped inside it. When the vehicle cools, incoming gas will force the air out of the fuel pump and through the carburetor, allowing the fuel to return to the pump, and then the engine will start and run again. This don't happen nowadays with automobiles having fuel injection because the entire fuel hose is pressurized.

But on lawn- or garden-tractors, the fuel hose is located nowhere near the hot exhaust. What is really happening when the engine stalls, is either the fuel system is dirty, the ignition coil is bad, or there's insufficient valve to lifter clearance.


Using a Mechanical Fuel Pump -

First of all, a fuel pump is required ONLY when the lowest part of the fuel tank is positioned lower than the carburetor, or when burning methanol fuel. It pumps fuel up to the carburetor when gravity will not allow sufficient fuel flow to the carburetor. Otherwise, if the lowest part of the fuel tank is positioned higher than the carburetor, the engine can successfully run solely on a gravity feed fuel system.

Mechanical plastic and metal body fuel pumps are very durable and they work pretty well, for both lawn and garden tractors and stock competition pulling tractors burning gas only. They will not pump enough fuel with methanol. Anyway, the OEM neoprene rubber diaphragm or gaskets rarely go bad in the mechanical fuel pump. When they fail to pump any fuel, it's usually due to the fuel pump cover and body become warped due to pressure from the retaining screws, or one of the poppet valves get damaged. They can become dislodged from their counterbore, or rusted or corroded from long term water contamination. If the poppet valves are in good condition and snug in their counterbores, but if the pump doesn't pump fuel, then in most cases, the cover and body have become warped, creating a vacuum leak at the diaphragm/gasket between the cover and body. To fix this, separate the fuel pump cover from the body, and resurface each on a wide, flat belt sander or large disc sander, or on the side of an abrasive metal cutting wheel on a electric chop saw (the kind that automotive muffler shops use) to remove any warpage and restore flatness. (Be sure to use eye protection!) After resurfacing, use a deburring tool to get rid of any sharp burrs and/or sharp edges inside the pump bodies, and thoroughly clean all the parts with 150± PSI compressed air before reassembly. After reassembly of the pump, it should work good as new. But if this doesn't fix the problem, or if one of the poppet valves is damaged, then perhaps a new or used reconditioned pump will need to be acquired.

By the way - most [new design] aftermarket small engine plastic-body mechanical fuel pumps rarely warp between the screws that fasten the cover and body together because the material is much thicker in this area. Only the older OEM Kohler plastic- and metal-body mechanical fuel pumps warp between the screws because the material is the same thickness where the screws are.

To test the fuel pump for fuel flow off the engine, submerge the inlet port in a container of clean (filtered) parts cleaner or paint thinner and then work the lever quickly by hand. The solvent should squirt forcibly out the outlet port. If the pump doesn't start pumping right away, submerge the entire fuel pump in the solvent and work the lever to prime it and remove the air internally. After checking to see how well it works, to test the PSI, a fuel pressure gauge that registers up to 15 PSI can be connected to the outlet port. The pressure should be 1-½ to 2 PSI. To increase the pressure to about 2-½ PSI (maximum), disassemble the pump and physically stretch the diaphragm pressure spring until it's about 3/4" longer than original length. To increase the volume (more fuel flow), the stroke of the fuel pump lobe on the camshaft would need to be lengthened approximately 1/8" by welding it up on the high side and reground deeper on the low side. Or better yet, use a 12 volt low pressure electric fuel pump.

The only problem when using a gasket to fasten the fuel pump to the block is, being the mounting flange is so thin, it will warp over time, causing an oil leak. (This happens to every pump I've seen.) To fix this, and to [possibly] prevent an oil leak in the future, completely disassemble the pump, remove the lever and arm (be careful not to lose the spring) and use a wide, flat belt sander or large disc sander, or on the side of an abrasive metal cutting wheel on a electric chop saw (the kind that automotive muffler shops use) to remove any warpage and restore flatness. (Be sure to use eye protection!) The trick to reinstalling the spring is, reinstall the arm, lever and support pin in the pump body first, then install the spring with a small, flat screwdriver. (The pumps with the manual fuel primer lever is harder to reassemble.) To keep the flange from warping again, fasten it directly to the block using only clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant and use no gasket, or use a very thin gasket. Finally, install a flat washer (and of course, a split lock washer) under each mounting screw head to distribute even pressure on the flange and to prevent the screws from loosening. By the way - I've always preferred to use clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant for three reasons: Gaskets don't always seal the irregularities and imperfections between mating metals, especially thin metal covers; being it's an adhesive, it bonds parts together, forming a leak-proof seal; and being it's clear, it makes for a clean and professional-looking repair job. When applied sparingly, it can't be easily seen or noticed between the parts.


The purpose of the older and now obsolete OEM Kohler mechanical fuel pump with the manual hand lever (thin metal piece that hangs down under the pump body) is for when the engine runs out of fuel, after refilling the gas tank, it takes less time to manually prime the pump and refill the carburetor with gas by working the lever by hand than it would to crank the engine for a long time so the fuel pump can draw fuel from the tank and deliver it to the carburetor. This was a nice feature, especially on engines with a rope or recoil starter! It also saves wear and tear on the electric starter motor from cranking the engine for a long time, which could eventually burn up the starter or drain the battery.


FYI - Virtually of all of Kohler's single cylinder cast iron block and opposed twin cylinder engines come with a lobe on the camshaft to activate the mechanical fuel pump. The fuel pump installs with the lever positioned upwards. And if there's no provision on the side of a [single cylinder] block to mount a mechanical fuel pump, a 3/4" center hole and two 1/4" bolt holes can be drilled, and the 1/4" holes tapped for 1/4-20 UNC threads to mount a mechanical fuel pump. Use a fuel pump mounting gasket as a templet to drill the holes.


When to Use a 12 Volt Low Pressure Electric Fuel Pump -

Most 12 volt low pressure electric fuel pumps are compact, vibration-proof (has solid state dependability), self-priming, easy to install and connect the wiring. They work with gasoline-based fuels, won't flood the carburetor, draw very little amperage from the battery, and they cost less than most OEM 12 volt low pressure electric fuel pumps. These works great for garden tractors having either a single- or two-cylinder engine.

Another good thing about a 12 volt low pressure electric fuel pump verses a mechanical pump (if the mechanical pump doesn't have a primer lever, which must be primed manually) is if an engine runs out of fuel, the engine will not have to be cranked for a long time to get the fuel pumped up to the carburetor, which can be hard on an electric starter motor.

A new electric fuel pump should come with detailed and illustrated installation instructions. If there's no instructions, on a tractor or small engine equipment with battery-powered ignition, connect the RED wire from the pump to the wire that connects to the ignition coil positive (+) terminal (which is connected to the battery positive (+) post through the ignition key switch), and connect the BLACK wire from the pump to the engine sheet metal or chassis ground (which is connected directly to the battery negative (–) post). On a tractor or small engine equipment with magneto or solid state ignition, but with electric start, use an OFF/ON toggle switch connected to the battery positive (+) post to power the fuel pump. In most cases, do not use the [self-grounding magneto] ignition key switch.

An electric fuel pump that's designed for an import car/truck produce more flow than any of Kohler's mechanical fuel pumps, and in most of them don't produce not enough pressure to flood the carburetor. With some high pressure electric fuel pumps however, an adjustable fuel pressure regulator with a fuel pressure gauge may need to be used between the fuel regulator and carburetor. To begin with, set the regulator at about 2-1/2 p.s.i. Make the final adjustment on the fuel pressure at high RPM or wide open throttle, hooked to the sled, while going down the track. For a stock garden pulling tractor with a 4,000 RPM limit, due to the minimal engine vibration, a dry fuel pressure gauge can be used. But for a garden pulling tractor that operate at high RPM or wide open throttle, due to increased engine vibration, use a liquid filled fuel pressure gauge to prevent possible damage to the gauge.

Advertisement:
If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle, tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're planning to relocate our business to other property with a bigger and better shop so we can hire more help and provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
Vacuum-Operated/Pulse-Type Plastic Body Fuel Pump. Operates off internal engine crankcase pulsating pressure. Very durable. Fits many makes and models of various small engines. Universal usage. Can be used as a replacement for a faulty high-dollar mechanical fuel pump. Use for general lawn and garden work or for a 4,000± RPM stock pulling engine. Install in-line fuel filter before pump so flapper valves in pump will last longer.
  • New high quality aftermarket. Replaces Briggs & Stratton part # 808656 and Kohler part # 24 393 16-S. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 24 393 16-S. $56.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
Vacuum-Operated/Pulse-Type All-Metal Body Fuel Pump. Operates off internal engine crankcase pulsating pressure. Fits many makes and models of various small engines. Universal usage. Can be used as a replacement for a faulty high-dollar mechanical fuel pump. Use for general lawn and garden work or for a 4,000± RPM stock pulling engine. Install in-line fuel filter before pump so flapper valves in pump will last longer.
  • New high quality aftermarket. Our part # 10876. Replaces Briggs & Stratton part # 808656 and Kohler part # 24 393 16-S. $45.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 15 393 01-S. $55.75 each, plus shipping & handling.
Mechanical Fuel Pump Opening Cover Plates with 1/8" NPT Threaded Port with Choice of Straight, 45º Angled or 90º Hose Fitting. Replace faulty mechanical fuel pump with a vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel pump. Each plate fits virtually all models of Kohler engines, and certain older Tecumseh engines. Can be installed with clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant instead of a gasket. Use plumber's thread sealing tape on fitting to guarantee a leak-proof seal. Each plate made of 1/8" thick mild steel. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.)

  • Aftermarket Rectangular-Shaped Cover Plate with 1/8" NPT Threaded Port. When appearance isn't important. A-1 Miller custom-made part. Replaces plate w/threaded hole Kohler part # 277646.
    • Without hose fitting. Customer supplies own fitting. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • With choice of straight, 45º angled or 90º hose fitting. $13.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler Styled Cover Plate with 1/8" NPT Threaded Port. When appearance matters. A-1 Miller modified part. Plate w/threaded hole discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # 277646.
    • Without hose fitting. Customer supplies own fitting. $14.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • With choice of straight, 45º angled or 90º hose fitting. $17.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

FYI - A vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel pump will work well with the OEM Kohler styled fuel pump block-off cover plate (part # 240282-S; listed below) used on certain Kohler K-series engines with a 21/32" port hole drilled and threads cut with an 1/8" NPT hand tap, and an 1/8" NPT x 1/4" hose fitting installed.

Cover Plates for Mechanical Fuel Pump Opening. Replace faulty mechanical fuel pump with gravity feed fuel system or 12 volt low pressure electric fuel pump. Fits most Kohler and older Tecumseh engines. Can be installed with clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant instead of a gasket. Each made of 1/8" thick mild steel.
  • Aftermarket Rectangular-Shaped Fuel Pump Block-Off Cover Plate. When appearance isn't important. A-1 Miller part. Replaces Kohler part # 240282-S and Tecumseh part # 31660. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.) $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler Styled Cover Plate. When appearance matters. OEM Kohler part # 240282-S; replaces Tecumseh part # 31660 (installed on certain Tecumseh engine models H40 and H50). $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Fuel Pump Mounting Gaskets. Fits all models of Kohler and older Tecumseh engines with a camshaft-operated mechanical fuel pump. Approximately 1/32" thick.
  • High quality aftermarket. $1.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 25 041 10-S. $2.10 each, plus shipping & handling.
Fuel Pump Diaphragm and Pressure Spring Repair Kit. Fits old-style plastic- and metal-body mechanical fuel pumps with thread-in hose fittings used on Kohler, Tecumseh, Onan, etc. Will not fit new-style fuel pumps with press-in fittings. IMPORTANT: To prevent a vacuum leak and for proper operation of the fuel pump, separate the cover from the body resurface each on a wide, flat belt sander or large disc sander, or on the side of an abrasive metal cutting wheel on a electric chop saw (the kind that automotive muffler shops use) to remove any warpage and restore flatness. (Be sure to use eye protection!) Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # 230675-S.
  • $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Mechanical Fuel Pumps. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8. New-style plastic body fuel pumps to resist corrosion from water contamination. Use the supplied snap ring to press the tabs in the fittings to install and rotate them. New pumps for thread-in fittings and/or with primer lever no longer available. Install in-line fuel filter before inlet on pump so pump will last longer. L FYI - The alternative to replacing a [high dollar or obsolete] OEM Kohler mechanical fuel pump on a small engine is to use a modern crankcase vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel pump or a 12 volt low pressure electric fuel pump. Click or tap here to learn how this is done.
  • A-1 Miller's Repair Service - Repair YOUR OEM Kohler mechanical fuel pump. $20.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling. No charge if not repairable.
  • New high quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 41 559 05-S. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • New OEM Kohler part # 41 559 05-S. $106.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
Mechanical Fuel Pumps. Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K330/K331, K321/M14, K341/M16, K361 and K660/K662. New-style plastic body fuel pumps to resist corrosion from water contamination. Use the supplied snap ring to press the tabs in the fittings to install and rotate them. Install in-line fuel filter before inlet on pump so pump will last longer. Kohler part #'s 47 559 10-S, 47 559 11-S (most commonly used). FYI - The alternative to replacing a [high dollar or obsolete] OEM mechanical fuel pump on a small engine is to use a modern crankcase vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel pump or a 12 volt low pressure electric fuel pump. Click or tap here to learn how this is done.
  • A-1 Miller's Repair Service - Repair YOUR OEM Kohler mechanical fuel pump. $20.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling. No charge if not repairable.
  • Reconditioned and tested OEM Kohler mechanical fuel pump. Comes with a 90 day limited warranty from date of purchase. $30.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • New high quality aftermarket. Reversible ports. (Remove top half, rotate 180º, reinstall.) Replaces Kohler part # 47 559 10-S and 47 559 11-S. $34.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • New OEM Kohler part # 47 559 10-S. Same as below except w/left port fuel inlet. $117.85 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • New OEM Kohler part # 47 559 11-S. Same as above except w/right port fuel inlet. $156.60 each, plus shipping & handling.
Mechanical Fuel Pumps. Fits Kohler engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. New-style plastic body fuel pumps to resist corrosion from water contamination. Use the supplied snap ring to press the tabs in the fittings to install and rotate them. Install in-line fuel filter before inlet on pump so pump will last longer. New pumps for thread-in fittings no longer available. L FYI - The alternative to replacing a [high dollar or obsolete] OEM mechanical fuel pump on a small engine is to use a modern crankcase vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel pump or a 12 volt low pressure electric fuel pump. Click or tap here to learn how this is done.
  • A-1 Miller's Repair Service - Repair YOUR OEM Kohler mechanical fuel pump. $20.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling. No charge if not repairable.
  • New high quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 52 559 03-S. $35.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • New OEM Kohler part # 52 559 03-S. $89.35 each, plus shipping & handling.
Mechanical Fuel Pumps. Fits Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582 opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engines. New-style plastic body fuel pumps to resist corrosion from water contamination. Use the supplied snap ring to press the tabs in the fittings to install and rotate them. Install in-line fuel filter before inlet on pump so pump will last longer. New pumps for thread-in fittings no longer available. L FYI - The alternative to replacing a [high dollar or obsolete] OEM mechanical fuel pump on a small engine is to use a modern vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel pump or a 12 volt low pressure electric fuel pump. Click or tap here to learn how this is done.
  • A-1 Miller's Repair Service - Repair YOUR OEM Kohler mechanical fuel pump. $20.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling. No charge if not repairable.
  • New high quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 48 559 05-S. $50.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • New OEM Kohler part # 48 559 05-S. $145.30 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Chrome Body Mechanical Fuel Pressure Gauges. Use to monitor fuel pump pressure to carburetor. Can be used on general lawn and garden equipment, various small engine equipment, recreational vehicles, garden pulling tractors or mini rod pulling tractors. Can be used with a vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel pump, mechanical fuel pump or electric fuel pump. Each registers 0-15 PSI, 1-1/2" diameter, with an 1/8" NPT male fitting on back of gauge. Fabricate a sturdy angled bracket to mount gauge on side of pedestal assembly or on frame of tractor, after electric fuel pump. IMPORTANT: Use plumber's thread sealing tape on all threaded fuel fittings for a leak-proof seal.
  • Dry Fuel Pressure Gauge. Suitable for low RPM engines. $16.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Liquid Filled Fuel Pressure Gauge. Suitable for high RPM engines. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling. [Return To Previous Paragraph or Section]
Low Pressure 12 Volt Fuel Pump Installation Kits. Low pressure, small and compact. Convert from gravity feed, or replace faulty vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel pump or mechanical fuel pump (with a deteriorated diaphragm that can seep gas into the crankcase, diluting the oil, which can could severe internal engine damage), or upgrade to one of these pumps for more fuel delivery. Each produces 2.5-4.5 PSI @ 30 gph, and is non-adjustable. Fuel regulator is not required, but may require one under certain conditions. Use for general lawn and garden work, or for garden tractor pulling. Will work for most single- and twin-cylinder gas engines such as Kohler, Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh, Wisconsin, etc., on virtually all models of Cub Cadet, John Deere, Wheel Horse, Sears Suburban, Massey Ferguson, and just about any lawn & garden equipment with a 12 volt electrical system. These electric fuel pump kits come with fittings that accepts 1/4" I.D. fuel hose, the same size that's on most Kohler and other makes and models of engines. If it's a Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) engine, the fitting in the carburetor would need to be changed to 1/4". IMPORTANT: Use plumber's thread sealing tape on fuel fittings to guarantee a leak-proof seal. If the engine has magneto or solid state ignition, but no charging system, and only a 12 volt battery is used to power the fuel pump, the battery will need to be recharged with portable battery charger every now and then so the fuel pump will work at peak efficiency. Alcohol resistant and very durable. For stock engines or engines running at high RPM or wide open throttle. Suitable for small gas engines up to 4 cylinder carbureted engines. Instant fuel prime to the carburetor as soon as pump is powered up. Ideal when equipment runs out of gas and no need to crank engine for a long time to refill carburetor to restart engine. Saves on starter motor wear. Each operates on 12 volts DC. Rather than a motor or diaphragm, these solenoid pumps use a piston actuated by an electromagnetic coil to generate fuel pressure and flow. By using only short pulses of electricity, this pump is very efficient. IMPORTANT: For long term storage, drain and clear out all fuel, leave fuel hoses disconnected so entire fuel system can "air dry," and apply WD-40 or light oil in the fuel pump to prevent oxidation, which could cause the moving parts to "freeze up" or stick. Wire Connections: The BLACK wire connects to negative (–) ground (tractor chassis or frame), and the RED wire connects to the positive (+) battery post or a terminal on the ignition switch that connects to the positive (+) battery post. If the wires are connected in reverse, the fuel pump will pump fuel in the opposite direction. It will not harm the pump. Install in-line fuel filter before inlet on pump so pump will last longer.

NOTE: Electric fuel pumps listed here come with a one year warranty from date of purchase. Install the inline fuel filter before the pump (inlet port) to prevent any debris from becoming lodged in the pumping mechanism. If there is debris lodged, it may be removed with 150 PSI compressed air when applied in the reverse direction of fuel flow. If the pump still won't work right after clearing it out, please remove the fittings, return the pump and I'll send you another new fuel pump without the hardware and fittings. [Return To Previous Paragraph or Section]

  • Round Body 12 Volt Low Pressure Electric Fuel Pump Installation Kit. Includes: Fuel pump, mounting bracket w/bolt/nut, two straight 1/4" barbed hose fittings, 4 hose spring-type clamps, 1/4" I.D. x 12" length reinforced fuel hose and fuel filter. High quality aftermarket. $32.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Square Body 12 Volt Low Pressure Electric Fuel Pump Installation Kit. Includes: Fuel pump, two straight 1/4" barbed hose fittings, 4 hose spring-type clamps, 1/4" I.D. x 12" length reinforced fuel hose and fuel filter. High quality aftermarket. $32.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Square Body 12 Volt Low Pressure Electric Fuel Pump Installation Kit. Pressure: 1/2 - 2 lb. PSI. Suitable for aluminum block engines. Includes: Fuel pump, two 1/4" barbed hose fittings, reinforced fuel hose, 4 hose spring-type clamps, and fuel filter. OEM Kohler part # 25 559 01-S. $188.85 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Square Body 12 Volt Low Pressure Electric Fuel Pump Installation Kit. Pressure: 2 - 3-1/2 lb. PSI. Suitable for cast iron block engines. Includes: Fuel pump, two 1/4" barbed hose fittings, reinforced fuel hose, 4 hose spring-type clamps, and fuel filter. OEM Kohler part # 41 393 45-S. $358.05 each, plus shipping & handling.

How to Prepare an Electric Fuel Pump for Wintertime or Long Term Storage -

If the equipment is equipped with an electric pump, for winter-time or long term storage, drain and clear out all fuel, leave the fuel hoses disconnected so the entire fuel system can "air dry," and apply WD-40 or light oil, such as 3-IN-ONE, power steering fluid or equivalent, in the fuel pump to prevent oxidation drying out of the moving parts, which could cause the parts to "freeze up" or stick. Then store the tractor or small engine equipment in a cool, dry environment. Click or tap here for more information of long term storage of an engine.

Advertisement:
If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle, tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're planning to relocate our business to other property with a bigger and better shop so we can hire more help and provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)

FYI: A-1 Miller's can professionally rebuild older vintage and antique carburetors virtually of any kind as well as newer ones, as long as replacement parts are available. I also have the capability to fabricate new throttle and choke shafts.


Rebuild and/or Repair YOUR K241-K361 Carter or Kohler or Walbro Carburetor. Basic rebuild with no "high performance" modifications whatsoever. Work includes: Complete disassembly of carburetor, thorough cleaning of carburetor and all parts, inspect all parts for wear, install overhaul/rebuild kit and throttle shaft bushing, if needed. This includes the high quality parts and professional services it may need that's listed below Ê. Anything else it may need will be an additional charge. FYI - Many of my customers send me their carburetor for rebuilding, but sometimes I can't find anything wrong it. So I'd call my customer and ask how their engine acted or ran. After hearing their story, I tell them it sounds like their engine either needs a professional valve job performed or it needs a professional tune-up. And lo and behold! Many of them either adjusted the valve clearances or had a professional valve job performed, or performed a professional tune-up, and said that their engine ran like new again. So remember, sometimes a carburetor problem may be the valves or the ignition system instead. Please contact A-1 Miller's for FREE professional technical support if you have any concerns with how poorly your engine runs.

After I rebuild a carburetor, as long as everything else on the engine is in good condition, the carburetor will, without a doubt, perform flawlessly. When we rebuild a carburetor, it is completely disassembled, including the choke plate and/or throttle shaft, only if the plate is bent or the shaft is worn. The mounting flanges are resurfaced on a wide, flat belt sander or large disc sander, or on the side of an abrasive metal cutting wheel on a electric chop saw (the kind that automotive muffler shops use) to remove any warpage and restore flatness to prevent a vacuum leak, then all the parts are placed in an ultrasonic cleaning machine for about 5 minutes. Then we use 150 psi compressed air to blow-dry all the parts, and I inspect each part for wear or any previous damage and repair or replace the damaged part(s) and replace the worn parts with new parts. If the throttle shaft is worn loose, a new bushing and foam rubber seal (to prevent dust and dirt from entering past bushing/throttle shaft), and a new overhaul/rebuild kit are installed. The lower hole in the high speed needle adjuster is also enlarged so engine will start quicker and idle better. And any stripped-out threads in the carburetor body for the air cleaner/filter mounting base are repaired, if possible. And the only way to remove all the paint from the carburetor body is to sandblast it. But sandblasting can allow tiny particles of sand to become embedded in the fuel passageways, which could come loose and cause problems later. Therefore, we do not sandblast carburetors. An original, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this repair service.

Additional Parts and Professional Repair Service Your Carburetor May Need Listed Below Ê

  • Drill out broken choke and/or throttle shaft screws and install choke and/or throttle shaft in carburetor body with new screws and split lock washers. $3.00 per broken screw, includes new replacement screw and split lock washer.
  • If needed, for Carter, Kohler or Walbro carburetors with a vertical throttle shaft: Install new bronze bushing for throttle shaft and reinstall original throttle shaft with new screws/lockwashers. $25.00 extra for parts and labor.
  • If needed, for Carter, Kohler or Walbro carburetors with a vertical throttle shaft: Bore-out upper throttle shaft hole, install new sleeve bronze bushing and reinstall original throttle shaft with new screws/lockwashers. $35.00 extra for parts and labor. An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this type of service.
  • If needed, repair stripped-out OEM 10-32 UNF air cleaner/filter assembly mounting threaded hole(s) with bigger 12-24 UNC or 1/4-20 UNC screws. $6.00 for all 3 screw holes. NOTE - Holes in air cleaner mounting base will need to be drilled out to 7/32" or 17/64" and gasket holes enlarged by customer for the bigger screws.
  • Idle speed and air/fuel mixture bore will be preset on the carburetor just to get the engine running, but due to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture bore will need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth.

IMPORTANT: When sending your carburetor to me, please package it and all parts to it securely in one sealed zip-lock sandwich bag to prevent loss of parts in shipping, and to prevent the odor of gas from escaping the package. If the odor of gas is still present from outside the package, apply air freshener on the carburetor to disguise the smell of gas. Because the US Postal Service or other delivery services will not deliver any packages that smell like gas. Also, be sure to include a note in the package with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone number (in case we have any questions), a description of what you want done, how the engine will be used and any other parts you may need. we will contact you when the carburetor (and list of parts) are ready to be sent back to you.

High Quality Aftermarket Chinese-Made Walbro-Replicated LME Carburetor. Fits Tecumseh engine models HH100 and HH120. The OEM Walbro LME carburetor is no longer available new.
  • $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Professionally Rebuilt Genuine OEM Carter Model N #13 or #16 Carburetor. Very rare. This particular carburetor is designed specifically for Kohler engine model K90 and K91 (which are the same engine), and certain low RPM K141 engines. The throttle bore measures .810" diameter and the venturi is .542" diameter. When used on a Kohler engine model K141, K160/K161, K181 or M8, due to the smaller throttle bore and restrictive venturi, and velocity of air that's required, the bigger engine will not produce full power at 3,600 RPM. (It'll be the same as using a small 2-barrel carburetor versus a big 4-barrel carburetor on an automotive engine.) This is a plain, stock carburetor that's been completely disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt with a new overhaul kit, new throttle shaft and other new parts installed if required. No performance modifications are made to this carburetor whatsoever. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be initially set on the carburetor just to get the engine running, but due to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments will need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth. Use plumber's thread sealing tape on fuel fitting to guarantee a leak-proof seal. OEM Carter part #'s A-220100, A-230246, A-230444, E-220517, F-220762, G-220517, 220451, 220574, 220745, 220777, 230501. (Not all numbers stamped on Carter carburetors are listed with Kohler.) OEM Kohler part # 46 053 03. This carburetor is discontinued from Kohler. L All carburetors that we repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with a limited one year workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE professional technical support.
  • $250.00 each with a rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in (certain valuable parts can be reused off of it on a good carburetor body), plus shipping & handling. (When available.) IMPORTANT: When sending your carburetor to me, please package it and all parts to it securely in one sealed zip-lock sandwich bag to prevent loss of parts in shipping, and to prevent the odor of gas from escaping the package. If the odor of gas is still present from outside the package, apply air freshener on the carburetor to disguise the smell of gas. Because the US Postal Service or other delivery services will not deliver any packages that smell like gas. Also, be sure to include a note in the package with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone number (in case I have any questions), a description of what you want done, how the engine will be used and any other parts you may need. I will contact you when the carburetor (and list of parts) are ready to be sent back to you.
  • $300.00 each outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling. (When available.) NOTE: Please don't discard your Carter or Kohler carburetor core. If not rebuildable, certain valuable parts can be reused on a good core. (The OEM (US) manufacturers are phasing out many parts for flathead engines due to EPA smog emissions. But some parts may still be available in aftermarket.)


Professionally Rebuilt Genuine OEM Carter Model N #18 Carburetor. Somewhat rare. This particular carburetor is designed specifically for Kohler engine model K141. The throttle bore measures .823" diameter and the venturi is .550" diameter. When used on a Kohler engine model K90/K91, due to the bigger venturi and velocity of air that's required, the smaller engine may hesitate to rev up. And when used on a Kohler engine model K160/K161, K181 or M8, due to the smaller and restrictive venturi, and velocity of air that's required, the bigger engine will not produce full power at 3,600 RPM. (It'll be the same as using a small 2-barrel carburetor versus a big 4-barrel carburetor on an automotive engine.) This is a plain, stock carburetor that's been completely disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt with a new overhaul kit, new throttle shaft and other new parts installed if required. No performance modifications are made to this carburetor whatsoever. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be initially set on the carburetor to get the engine running, but due to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments will need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth. Use plumber's thread sealing tape on fuel fitting to guarantee a leak-proof seal. OEM Carter part #'s A-231966, B-231469, G-220517. (Not all numbers stamped on Carter carburetors are listed with Kohler.) OEM Kohler part #'s 41 053 06, 41 053 13. This carburetor is discontinued from Kohler. L All carburetors that we repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with a limited one year workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE professional technical support.

  • $155.00 each with a rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in (certain valuable parts can be reused off of it on a good carburetor body), plus shipping & handling. (When available.) IMPORTANT: When sending your carburetor to me, please package it and all parts to it securely in one sealed zip-lock sandwich bag to prevent loss of parts in shipping, and to prevent the odor of gas from escaping the package. If the odor of gas is still present from outside the package, apply air freshener on the carburetor to disguise the smell of gas. Because the US Postal Service or other delivery services will not deliver any packages that smell like gas. Also, be sure to include a note in the package with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone number (in case I have any questions), a description of what you want done, how the engine will be used and any other parts you may need. I will contact you when the carburetor (and list of parts) are ready to be sent back to you.
  • $165.00 each outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling. (When available.) NOTE: Please don't discard your Carter or Kohler carburetor core. If not rebuildable, certain valuable parts can be reused on a good core. (The OEM (US) manufacturers are phasing out many parts for flathead engines due to EPA smog emissions. But some parts may still be available in aftermarket.)


Professionally Rebuilt Genuine OEM Carter Model N #20 Carburetor. Somewhat rare. This particular carburetor is designed specifically for Kohler engine models K160/K161. The throttle bore measures .823" diameter and the venturi is .612" diameter. When used on a Kohler engine model K90/K91 or K141, due to the bigger venturi and velocity of air that's required, the smaller engine may hesitate to rev up. And when used on a Kohler engine model K181 or M8, due to the smaller and restrictive venturi, and velocity of air that's required, the bigger engine will not produce full power at 3,600 RPM. (It'll be the same as using a small 2-barrel carburetor versus a big 4-barrel carburetor on an automotive engine.) This is a plain, stock carburetor that's been completely disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt with a new overhaul kit, new throttle shaft and other new parts installed if required. No performance modifications are made to this carburetor whatsoever. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be initially set on the carburetor to get the engine running, but due to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments will need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth. Use plumber's thread sealing tape on fuel fitting to guarantee a leak-proof seal. OEM Carter part #'s A-230798, B-231231, B-231450, B-231469, C-231738, E-231480, E-231488, E-231489, F-230350, F-230501, G-220517, G-230500. (Not all numbers stamped on Carter carburetors are listed with Kohler.) OEM Kohler part #'s 41 053 06, 41 053 14. This carburetor is discontinued from Kohler. L All carburetors that we repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with a limited one year workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE professional technical support.

  • $155.00 each with a rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in (certain valuable parts can be reused off of it on a good carburetor body), plus shipping & handling. (When available.) IMPORTANT: When sending your carburetor to me, please package it and all parts to it securely in one sealed zip-lock sandwich bag to prevent loss of parts in shipping, and to prevent the odor of gas from escaping the package. If the odor of gas is still present from outside the package, apply air freshener on the carburetor to disguise the smell of gas. Because the US Postal Service or other delivery services will not deliver any packages that smell like gas. Also, be sure to include a note in the package with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone number (in case I have any questions), a description of what you want done, how the engine will be used and any other parts you may need. I will contact you when the carburetor (and list of parts) are ready to be sent back to you.
  • $165.00 each outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling. (When available.) NOTE: Please don't discard your Carter or Kohler carburetor core. If not rebuildable, certain valuable parts can be reused on a good core. (The OEM (US) manufacturers are phasing out many parts for flathead engines due to EPA smog emissions. But some parts may still be available in aftermarket.)


Professionally Rebuilt Genuine OEM Carter Model N #22 Carburetor. This particular carburetor is designed specifically for Kohler engine models K181 and M8. The throttle bore measures .823" diameter and the venturi is .682" diameter. Due to the unrestrictive venturi and velocity of air that's required, when used on a K181 or M8, the bigger engine will produce full power at 3,600 RPM. But due to the bigger venturi, when used on a K90/K91, K141 or K160/K161, the smaller engine may hesitate to rev up because it will not create the velocity of air or air charge required to sufficiently draw/suction fuel through the main nozzle at 3,600 RPM. This is a plain, stock carburetor that's been completely disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt with a new overhaul kit, new throttle shaft and other new parts installed if required. No performance modifications are made to these carburetors whatsoever. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be initially set on the carburetor to get the engine running, but due to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments will need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth. Use plumber's thread sealing tape on fuel fitting to guarantee a leak-proof seal. OEM Carter part #'s A-230798, A-231741, A-234631, B-231739, C-231738, F-230350, F-230501, F-230502, G-220517. (Not all numbers stamped on Carter carburetors are listed with Kohler.) OEM Kohler part #'s 41 053 01, 41 053 04, 41 053 05, 41 053 06, 41 053 18, 41 053 20. Not all newer Carter Model N carburetors with a .682" venturi have the "22" embossed in the choke end of the carburetor. Please indicate if the carburetor you need use 2 or 3 air cleaner mounting holes. This carburetor is discontinued from Kohler. L All carburetors that we repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with a limited one year workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE professional technical support.

  • $75.00 each with a rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in (certain valuable parts can be reused off of it on a good carburetor body), plus shipping & handling. (When available.) IMPORTANT: When sending your carburetor to me, please package it and all parts to it securely in one sealed zip-lock sandwich bag to prevent loss of parts in shipping, and to prevent the odor of gas from escaping the package. If the odor of gas is still present from outside the package, apply air freshener on the carburetor to disguise the smell of gas. Because the US Postal Service or other delivery services will not deliver any packages that smell like gas. Also, be sure to include a note in the package with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone number (in case I have any questions), a description of what you want done, how the engine will be used and any other parts you may need. I will contact you when the carburetor (and list of parts) are ready to be sent back to you.
  • $95.00 each outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling. (When available.) NOTE: Please don't discard your Carter or Kohler carburetor core. If not rebuildable, certain valuable parts can be reused on a good core. (The OEM (US) manufacturers are phasing out many parts for flathead engines due to EPA smog emissions. But some parts may still be available in aftermarket.)


High Quality "Made in China" Aftermarket Carter Model N-Replicated Fully Adjustable Carburetor. The throttle bore in this particular carburetor measures .811" diameter and the venturi is .588" diameter. This is an alternative universal low cost carburetor that can be used on Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181 or M8. Due to the larger size of the venturi, this carburetor may not work correctly on the K90/K91 engines. Direct replacement; no modifications to linkages required. When installing the carburetor, reuse the same linkage and everything else. Transfer the 1/8" NPT fuel hose fitting (use plumber's thread sealing tape on fitting to guarantee a leak-proof seal), install carburetor on engine, adjust the idle speed and air/fuel mixtures until the engine runs smooth. Irrelevant Carter/Kohler part number(s). Comes with a one year limited warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE professional technical support. $30.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Professionally Rebuilt Genuine OEM Carter or Kohler #26 Carburetors. The throttle bore measures 26mm/1.07" diameter and the venturi is .812" diameter. This particular carburetor is designed specifically for Kohler engine models K241, K301, K330/K331, M10 and M12. When used on a Kohler engine model K321/M14, K341/M16 or K361, due to the smaller throttle bore and restrictive venturi, and velocity of air that's required, the bigger engine will not produce full power at 3,600 RPM. (It'll be the same as using a small 2-barrel carburetor versus a big 4-barrel carburetor on an automotive engine.) These are plain, stock carburetors that's been completely disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt with a new overhaul kit, new throttle shaft bushing or new throttle shaft (if needed) and other new parts installed if required. No performance modifications made to these carburetors whatsoever. Includes choke plate installed. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be initially set on the carburetor to get the engine running, but due to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments will need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth. Kohler carburetor part #'s 47 053 07, 47 053 08, 47 053 12, 47 053 13, 47 053 14, 47 053 24, 47 053 29, 47 053 40, 47 053 62 or 47 053 80. NOTE: Not all numbers stamped on Carter carburetors are listed with Kohler. And design of throttle lever, choke lever and number of air cleaner mounting holes may be different for your particular engine application than shown in picture to the right. Discontinued from Kohler. L All carburetors that we repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with a limited one year workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE professional technical support.
  • $65.00 each with a rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in (certain valuable parts can be reused off of it on a good carburetor body), plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
  • $85.00 each outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling. (When available.) NOTE: Please don't discard your Carter or Kohler carburetor core. If not rebuildable, certain valuable parts can be reused on a good core.


Professionally Rebuilt Genuine OEM Carter #28 Carburetor. Very rare carburetor. The throttle bore measures 28mm/1.17" diameter and the venturi is .937" diameter. This particular carburetor is designed specifically for the early Kohler engine model K321 with specification suffix "A", "B" or "C" (with the smaller 1-1/8" exhaust valve) and for certain low RPM K341 engines. When used on a Kohler engine model K241/M10 or K301/M12, due to the larger throttle bore and bigger venturi, the smaller engine may hesitate to rev up because it will not create the velocity of air or air charge required to sufficiently draw/suction fuel through the main nozzle at 3,600 RPM. These are plain, stock carburetors that's been completely disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt with a new overhaul kit, new throttle shaft bushing or new throttle shaft (if needed) and other new parts installed if required. No performance modifications made to these carburetors whatsoever. Includes choke plate installed. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be initially set on the carburetor to get the engine running, but due to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments will need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth. It may have the part number 236636 stamped on the flange. It has been discontinued by Carter many years ago. NOTE: Not all numbers stamped on Carter carburetors are listed with Kohler. And design of throttle lever, choke lever and number of air cleaner mounting holes may be different for your particular engine application than shown in picture to the right. All carburetors that we repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with a limited one year workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE professional technical support.

  • $100.00 each with a rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in (certain valuable parts can be reused off of it on a good carburetor body), plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
  • $150.00 each outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling. (When available.) NOTE: Please don't discard your Carter or Kohler carburetor core. If not rebuildable, certain valuable parts can be reused on a good core.


Professionally Rebuilt Genuine OEM Carter or Kohler #30 Carburetors. The throttle bore measures 30mm/1.2" diameter and the venturi is 1.000" diameter. This particular carburetor is designed specifically for Kohler engine models K321 (w/1-3/8" exhaust valve), K341, M14 and M16. When used on a Kohler engine model K241/M10 or K301/M12, due to the larger throttle bore and bigger venturi, the smaller engine may hesitate to rev up because it will not create the velocity of air or air charge required to sufficiently draw/suction fuel through the main nozzle at 3,600 RPM. These are plain, stock carburetors that's been completely disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt with a new overhaul kit, new throttle shaft bushing or new throttle shaft (if needed) and other new parts installed if required. No performance modifications made to these carburetors whatsoever. Includes choke plate installed. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be initially set on the carburetor to get the engine running, but due to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments will need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth. Kohler carburetor part #'s 47 053 07, 47 053 08, 47 053 12, 47 053 13, 47 053 14, 47 053 24, 47 053 29, 47 053 40, 47 053 62 or 47 053 80. NOTE: Not all numbers stamped on Carter carburetors are listed with Kohler. And design of throttle lever, choke lever and number of air cleaner mounting holes may be different for your particular engine application than shown in picture to the right. Discontinued from Kohler. L All carburetors that we repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with a limited one year workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE professional technical support.

  • $85.00 each with a rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in (certain valuable parts can be reused off of it on a good carburetor body), plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
  • $100.00 each outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling. (When available.) NOTE: Please don't discard your Carter or Kohler carburetor core. If not rebuildable, certain valuable parts can be reused on a good core.


Professionally Rebuilt Genuine OEM Kohler #30 (w/1.25" Throttle Bore) Carburetor. Rare carburetor. The throttle bore measures 32mm/1.25" and the venturi is 1.062" diameter. This particular carburetor is designed specifically for Kohler engine model K361. When used on a Kohler engine model K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14 or K341/M16, the smaller engine may hesitate to rev up because it will not create the velocity of air or air charge required to sufficiently draw/suction fuel through the main nozzle at 3,600 RPM. Completely disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and professionally rebuilt with a new overhaul kit, new throttle shaft bushing or new throttle shaft (if needed) and other new parts installed if required. No performance modifications made whatsoever. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be initially set on the carburetor to get the engine running, but due to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments will need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth. NOTE: Design of throttle lever, choke lever and number of air cleaner mounting holes may be different for your particular engine application than shown in picture to the right. Discontinued from Kohler. L Kohler carburetor part #'s 47 053 07, 47 053 08, 47 053 12, 47 053 13, 47 053 14, 47 053 24, 47 053 29, 47 053 40, 47 053 62 or 47 053 80. All carburetors that we repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with a limited one year workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE professional technical support.

  • $175.00 each with a rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in (certain valuable parts can be reused off of it on a good carburetor body), plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
  • $195.00 each outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling. (When available.) NOTE: Please don't discard your Carter or Kohler carburetor core. If not rebuildable, certain valuable parts can be reused on a good core.


10-18hp Kohler (or Carter [model N]) CarburetorNEW high quality "Made in China" Aftermarket Kohler-replicated fully adjustable carburetors. Each is a direct replacement with the same function and appearance as OEM Carter and Kohler carburetors. No modifications required. Before installing carburetor, transfer the 1/8" NPT fuel hose fitting (use plumber's thread sealing tape on fitting to guarantee a leak-proof seal), reuse same linkage and everything else, and after carburetor is installed on engine, with engine running, adjust idle speed and low and high speed air/fuel mixture screws until engine runs smooth. NOTE: Please specify if you need a carburetor with a hole or ball on throttle lever. FYI: Some people advertise online that the carburetor for Kohler engine models K241/M10 and K301/M12 can also be used on the K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 engines. But I know for a fact that if the K241/M10 and K301/M12 carburetor is used on a K321/M14, K341/M16 or K361, which produces 14hp, 16hp and 18hp, respectively, with the correct carburetors, would produce about 12hp, 14hp and 15hp, and make less torque, because the engine would be drawing less air through the smaller carburetor to produce not as much compression. I guess the seller don't know the difference between these carburetors, because they look virtually identical on the outside. Or maybe the seller figures what most people don't know, makes them more money. Comes with a one year limited warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE professional technical support.

  • NEW high quality "Made in China" Aftermarket Kohler-replicated, fully adjustable #26 (1.07" throttle bore) carburetor with hole or ball on throttle lever and short choke lever. Designed for Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241/M10 and K301/M12 with the round-shaped metal air cleaner/filter assembly. Please specify if you need the carburetor with a hole in the throttle lever or ball on the throttle lever. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • NEW high quality "Made in China" Aftermarket Kohler-replicated, fully adjustable #26 (1.07" throttle bore) carburetor with ball on throttle lever and long choke lever. Designed for Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) engine models K241 and K301 with the oblong-shaped metal air cleaner/filter assembly. Please specify if you need the carburetor with a hole in the throttle lever or ball on the throttle lever. $55.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • NEW high quality "Made in China" Aftermarket Kohler-replicated, fully adjustable #30 (1.17" throttle bore) carburetor with hole or ball on throttle lever and short choke lever. Designed for Kohler engine models K321/M14, K341/M16 with the round-shaped metal air cleaner/filter assembly. Please specify if you need the carburetor with a hole in the throttle lever or ball on the throttle lever. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • NEW high quality "Made in China" Aftermarket Kohler-replicated, fully adjustable #30 (1.17" throttle bore) carburetor with ball on throttle lever and long choke lever. Designed for Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) engine models K321 and K341 with the oblong-shaped metal air cleaner/filter assembly. Please specify if you need the carburetor with a hole in the throttle lever or ball on the throttle lever. $55.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


High Performance Stock-Appearing "Old School" Technology Carburetor Modifications - Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the parts or items in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page]

Bore-out and modify/rework YOUR Carter or Kohler #26, #28 or #30 carburetor to a limit of .995", 1" or straight-through design (to match the diameter of throttle bore) or whatever your club's sanctioning rules allow for use with pump gas, E85 or methanol fuel. I'll need a copy of your club's sanctioning rules regarding the legality of the carburetor, so when I rework/modify it, it'll be legal for the class you plan to pull in. FYI - after I modify/rework a Carter or Kohler carburetor for high performance use, as long as everything else on the engine (ignition system, valve train, etc.) is in good condition, the carburetor will, without a doubt, perform flawlessly. - Brian Miller

  • Stock-appearing carburetor is modified internally to improve engine performance. $85.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling. Extra charge if any parts are needed. Labor includes what's listed below, plus whatever high quality parts and additional services it may need that's listed below.
  • If main jet/nozzle cannot be removed with a screwdriver and must be drilled out so venturi can be bored-out. $35.00 extra for labor and new main jet/nozzle.
  • Please specify if your engine has stock size valves or oversize valves.
  • Eliminate choke shaft and plate, plug choke shaft holes, and convert carburetor for use with the remote fuel primer system kit. If your club's rules require a working choke or if you would like to retain a working choke, please let A-1 Miller's know. And please read your club's sanctioning rules carefully to make sure! $20.00 extra for labor and kit.
  • Convert carburetor to bottom main fuel adjuster. (Only for high RPM/wide open throttle competition pulling engines). $17.00 extra.
  • No extra charge to convert your carburetor for use with E85 or methanol fuels with the high performance modifications.
  • Missing, worn beyond specifications or broken parts are extra charge.
  • All carburetors that we repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with a limited one year workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE professional technical support.

NOTE: The venturi in the Chinese-made Kohler-replicated #26 carburetor can be bored out the same diameter as the throttle bore, to a maximum of 1.09" (1-7/64"), same as the genuine OEM Carter and Kohler #26 carburetors. But the venturi in the Chinese-made Kohler-replicated #30 carburetor (which actually a #28 that have a throttle bore diameter of 1.17" / 29.76mm) can only be bored-out to a maximum of 1.000". If it's bored-out any bigger and centered with the throttle bore, being the Chinese-made carburetor bodies of the #26 and #30 are cast in the same mold and machined the same externally, including the fuel inlet port, the boring process of the venturi in the #30 carburetor to match the diameter of the throttle bore will, without a doubt, break through into the fuel inlet port, which will allow fuel into the throttle bore and render the carburetor body useless. But the venturi in the genuine OEM Carter and Kohler #30 carburetors can be bored out the same size as the throttle bore, to a maximum of 1.2", with no risk of breaking through into the fuel inlet port. A bored-out venturi and reworked carburetor is when the carburetor is modified for maximum performance only for competition pulling. And remember - performance carburetors are like women, it's what's on the inside that matters.


NEW fully adjustable Kohler #26 and #30 carburetors bored-out and reworked for high performance use. A bored-out venturi and reworked carburetor is when the carburetor is modified for maximum performance for general yard and garden use, and/or for competition pulling. These carburetors have been internally modified to outperform a stock OEM Carter or Kohler carburetor under heavy competition pulling load, and when adjusted correctly, will not run lean at high RPM while going down the track. Will pass tech with virtually any club. The venturi in these carburetors are bored to either 7/8", .995", 1" or 1.2" straight-through throttle bore for high RPM operation, setup for gas, E85 or methanol fuels, whatever your club's sanctioning rules allow or whatever you desire for all-out engine performance. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture bore.) OEM will be initially set on the carburetor to get the engine running, but due to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture bore.) OEM will need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth. All carburetors that we repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with a limited one year workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE professional technical support. Please specify if engine has stock size valves or oversize valves.

Also, these carburetors are "built to order." So when placing an order, please specify if your engine has a factory stock size or oversize intake valve, if you want it with a .995" or 1" venturi, or a straight-thru throttle bore (no venturi), if the engine is going to turn 4,000± RPM or wide open throttle, and if you want the choke plate/shaft installed.

  • #26 or #30 carburetor with top main fuel adjuster. (For up to 4,000± RPM.) $100.00 each outright, plus shipping & handling.
  • #26 or #30 carburetor with bottom main fuel adjuster. (For wide open throttle.) $125.00 each outright, plus shipping & handling.
Professionally Rebuilt Genuine OEM Kohler #26 fully adjustable carburetors. Fits Kohler engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20 (without anti-backfire shut-off valve). These are plain, stock carburetors that's been completely disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and professionally rebuilt with a new overhaul kit and other new parts installed if required. No performance modifications made to these carburetors whatsoever. Includes choke plate installed. Comes with a changeable upward or downward swing choke lever to match the position of the lever on your original carburetor. Simply remove the retaining screw and reposition the choke lever according to your application. (This is a feature A-1 Miller's offer that other sellers do not.) When ordering, please specify the position of the choke lever. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be initially set on the carburetor just to get the engine running, but due to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments will need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth. Kohler carburetor part #'s 52 053 09, 52 053 18 or 52 053 28. NOTE: Not all carburetor numbers are listed with Kohler. All carburetors that we repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with a limited one year workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE professional technical support.
  • $45.00 each, with rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
  • $65.00 each, outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)


NEW High Quality "Made in China" Aftermarket Kohler-replicated #26 fully adjustable carburetor. Fits Kohler engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Direct replacement. Same function and appearance as OEM Carter or Kohler carburetor. Comes with a changeable upward or downward swing choke lever to match the position of the lever on your original carburetor. Simply remove the retaining screw and reposition the choke lever according to your application. (This is a feature A-1 Miller's offer that other sellers do not.) When ordering, please specify the position of the choke lever. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be initially set on the carburetor just to get the engine running, but due to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments will need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth. Each come with a one year warranty from date of purchase.

  • $35.00 each, with rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in, plus shipping & handling.
  • $55.00 each, outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling.
Carburetors for Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582. All carburetors that we repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with a limited one year workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE professional technical support. FYI: Some people advertise online that the carburetor for the K482 and K532 can also be used on the K582. But I know for a fact that if the K482 and K532 carburetor is used on the K582, which produces 24hp with the correct carburetor, would produce about 21hp and make less torque, because the engine would be drawing less air through the smaller carburetor to produce not as much compression. I guess the seller don't know the differences between these carburetors, because they look virtually identical on the outside. Or maybe the seller figures what most people don't know, makes them more money.

Professionally Rebuilt OEM Kohler carburetor with a 1.07" throttle bore (#26). Designed specifically for Kohler engine models K482 and K532. Cleaned and rebuilt with a new overhaul kit and other new parts installed if required. OEM Kohler part # 48 053 07-S. (When available.)

  • $70.00 each with a rebuildable core trade-in, plus shipping & handling.
  • $100.00 each outright, plus shipping & handling.

Professionally Rebuilt OEM Kohler carburetor with a 1.2" throttle bore (#30). Designed specifically for Kohler engine model K582. Cleaned and rebuilt with a new overhaul kit and other new parts installed if required. OEM Kohler part # 48 053 06-S or 48 053 16-S. (When available.)

  • $70.00 each outright, plus shipping & handling.
  • $100.00 each outright, plus shipping & handling.

High Quality "Made in China" Aftermarket Kohler-replicated fully adjustable carburetor with a 1.07" throttle bore (#26). Designed specifically for Kohler engine models K482 and K532. Direct replacement. Same function and appearance as OEM Carter or Kohler carburetor. No modifications required. Replaces Kohler part # 48 053 07-S. $65.00 each outright, plus shipping & handling.

High Quality "Made in China" Aftermarket Kohler-replicated fully adjustable carburetor with a 1.2" throttle bore (#30). Designed specifically for Kohler engine model K582. Direct replacement. Same function and appearance as OEM Carter or Kohler carburetor. No modifications required. Replaces Kohler part # 48 053 06-S or 48 053 16-S. $65.00 each outright, plus shipping & handling.

Advertisement:
If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle, tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're planning to relocate our business to other property with a bigger and better shop so we can hire more help and provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
NOTE: All parts listed here are NEW, unless otherwise stated. We do not sell cheap junk! As a matter of fact, most OEM Kohler parts are made in China now. Kohler owns some of the factories in China that make the parts. And most aftermarket parts are also manufactured by Kohler in China. Kohler just place the part(s) in a generic box and sell them for less money. So when purchasing a genuine OEM Kohler part that comes in a box with the Kohler name on it, you're really just paying more money for the name.
Carburetor to Block Mounting Gaskets. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181/M8, and various other makes and models of small engines with Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 and Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetor. Approximately 1/64" compressed thickness. Replaces Tecumseh part # 31960A.
  • High quality aftermarket. Our part # 14-1084. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 210223-S. $3.05 each, plus shipping & handling.
Air Cleaner Base or Intake Elbow Adapter to Carburetor Mounting Gasket. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181/M8, and various other makes and models of small engines with Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 and Walbro WHL #36, #44 and LME carburetors. Approximately 1/32" compressed thickness. Use with two mounting screws. Discontinued from Kohler. L Replaces Kohler part # 220537 and Tecumseh part # 27272A.
  • High quality aftermarket. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Air Cleaner Base to Carburetor Mounting Gasket. Fits various Kohler engine models K181 and M8, and various other makes and models of small engines with Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetor. Not available in aftermarket.
  • OEM Kohler part # 41 041 04-S. $4.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
Air Cleaner Base or Intake Elbow Adapter to Carburetor Mounting Gaskets. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181/M8, and various other makes and models of small engines with Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 and Walbro WHL 36, #44 carburetor. Use with two or three mounting screws, depending on type of air cleaner. Approximately 1/32" compressed thickness. Alternative gasket to the left.
  • High quality aftermarket. Our part # 7795. $1.10 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 41 041 11-S. $1.65 each, plus shipping & handling.
Carburetor to Block Thin Mounting Gaskets. Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K330/K331, K321/M14, K341/M16, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20 K482, K532 and K582 opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engines with Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 or Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetor. For general lawn and garden use. Approximately 1/32" compressed thickness.
  • High quality aftermarket. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 271030-S. $3.75 each, plus shipping & handling.
Carburetor to Block Heat Isolator Mounting Gasket. Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K330/K331, K321/M14 and K341/M16 with Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 or Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetor. Use on engines that do a lot of heavy work. Idea for stock competition pulling engines. Has gaskets adhered to each side of heat resistant phenolic resin center. Approximately .230" compressed thickness. FYI: This particular gasket prevents engine heat from being transferred to the carburetor, resulting in cooling and better atomization of the fuel before entering the combustion chamber, improving engine performance.
  • High quality aftermarket. $7.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 47 049 01-S. $12.75 each, plus shipping & handling.
Air Cleaner Base to Carburetor Mounting Gaskets. Fits Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, and various Magnum engine models M12, M14 and M16 with Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 or Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetor with the round air cleaner/filter assembly.
  • High quality aftermarket. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 275341-S. $4.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Air Cleaner Base to Carburetor Mounting Gasket. Fits Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) engine models K241, K301, K321, K341 and K361, and various Magnum engine models M10, M12, M14 and M16 with Kohler #26, #30 or Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors with the round or oblong air cleaner/filter assembly. Not available in aftermarket.
  • OEM Kohler part # 45 041 07-S. $4.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Air Intake Elbow Adapter to Carburetor Mounting Gasket. Fits Kohler engine models K321, K341, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20, K482, K532, K582. Can be substituted with gasket above by making an atmospheric vent hole at the 2:00 position. Not available in aftermarket.
  • OEM Kohler part # 25 041 06-S. $2.15 each, plus shipping & handling.
Square-Shaped Air Cleaner Base to Elbow Adapter Mounting Gasket. Fits Kohler engine models CH25, CH730-740, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20, K482, K532, K582. Approximately 1/32" compressed thickness. Not available in aftermarket.
  • OEM Kohler part # 277093-S. $5.70 each, plus shipping & handling.
Intake Manifold to Cylinder Mounting Gasket. Fits Kohler opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Approximately 1/32" compressed thickness.
  • High quality aftermarket. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 52 041 09-S. $5.84 each, plus shipping & handling.
Intake Manifold to Block Mounting Gasket. Fits Kohler opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engine models K482, K532 and K582. Not available in aftermarket.
  • OEM Kohler part # 48 052 02-S. $4.38 each, plus shipping & handling.
Carburetor Overhaul Kits. Fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22, and Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors used on Kohler K-series and early Magnum single and opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engines, and various other makes and models of small engines. Includes Viton-tip fuel inlet float valve, brass fuel inlet seat w/gasket, neoprene rubber bowl-to-carburetor body O-ring seal, neoprene rubber fuel baffle/splash shield, fiber bottom washer and float hinge pin. All rubber-like parts made of alcohol-resistant neoprene rubber. IMPORTANT: For a used float bowl, flatten the bottom of the bowl from the inside on a hard, flat surface with a small hammer, install the bowl on the carburetor and tighten the bowl retaining bolt to "clamp" or squeeze the fuel baffle/splash shield against the O-ring and carburetor body to prevent splashing fuel from leaking out around the top of the float bowl.
  • High quality aftermarket. NOTE: Depending on supplier, fuel inlet seat may require a 10mm thin-wall deep well hex socket to install. (See below.) Replaces Kohler part #'s 25 757 01-S, 25 757 02-S. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part #'s 25 757 01-S, 25 757 02-S. $15.05 each, plus shipping & handling.


High Quality 10mm 6 Point 1/4" Drive Thin-Wall Deep Well Socket for installing (and removing) certain aftermarket fuel inlet seats in Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22, and Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30, and Chinese-made aftermarket carburetors. Can also be used to remove and install the OEM Kohler 3/8" fuel inlet seat. Machined thin by A-1 Miller's to fit into confined space of inlet seat. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Return To Previous Paragraph or Section
Float Bowl-to-Carburetor Body O-Ring Seals. This particular part prevents splashing fuel inside the float bowl from leaking out caused by normal or high RPM engine vibrations. Required in all carburetors. Each fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22, and Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors used on the Kohler K-series and early Magnum single cylinder 4hp-16hp, 18hp OHV single- and twin-cylinder flathead cast iron block engines. Also fits Tecumseh engines with the Carter or Walbro carburetors with the large bowl, and Briggs and Stratton 7hp-12hp vertical shaft flathead engine carburetors. (These early B&S carburetors was designed and made by the Carter Carburetor Corporation.) Dimensions (±): 2-3/16" I.D. x 2-7/16" O.D. x .040" thickness. Alcohol-resistant neoprene rubber O-ring included in overhaul/rebuild kits listed above È. IMPORTANT: For a used float bowl, flatten the bottom of the bowl from the inside on a hard, flat surface with a small hammer, install the bowl on the carburetor and tighten the bowl retaining bolt to "clamp" or squeeze the fuel baffle/splash shield against the O-ring and carburetor body to prevent splashing fuel from leaking out around the top of the float bowl.
  • OEM Briggs & Stratton part # 270511. Made of alcohol-resistant paper-like gasket material. $1.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • High quality aftermarket. Made of alcohol-resistant neoprene rubber. Replaces Kohler part # 200375-S. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 200375-S. Made of alcohol-resistant neoprene rubber. $5.12 each, plus shipping & handling.
Alcohol-Resistant Neoprene Rubber Fuel Baffle/Splash Shields. This particular part prevents splashing fuel inside the float bowl from traveling up through the atmospheric vent passageway and possibly being sucked into the throttle bore, which can momentarily cause engine misfire due to normal or high RPM engine vibrations. Fastens between bowl O-ring seal and float bowl. Required in all carburetors. Fits all Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 and Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors used on the Kohler K-series and early Magnum single cylinder 4hp-16hp, 18hp OHV single- and twin-cylinder flathead cast iron block engines. Included in overhaul/rebuild kit listed above È. IMPORTANT: For a used float bowl, flatten the bottom of the bowl from the inside on a hard, flat surface with a small hammer, install the bowl on the carburetor and tighten the bowl retaining bolt to "clamp" or squeeze the fuel baffle/splash shield against the O-ring and carburetor body to prevent splashing fuel from leaking out around the top of the float bowl.
  • High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 25 041 02-S. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 25 041 02-S. $4.92 each, plus shipping & handling.
Brass Float. Fits all Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22, and Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors used on the Kohler K-series, early Magnum single cylinder K90-K361 single- and twin-cylinder flathead cast iron block engines. May also fit certain carburetors used on Onan engines. Dimensions (±): 15/16" I.D. x 1-15/16" O.D. x 5/8" tall. NOTE: The float level/height must be set correctly on ALL brass floats when installed. They do not come preset. The correct way to set the float level is remove the carburetor from the engine, remove the float bowl, and with the carburetor upside-down, use a small flat blade screwdriver to bend the tab on the float slightly one way or the other to set the float parallel with the carburetor body. Make sure the float moves up and down freely, too. If it binds or sticks, carefully use a flat file to narrow the sides of the hinge for clearance. Be careful not to file into the float itself!
  • High quality aftermarket. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # 25 757 03-S. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Float Stabilizer Spring. Fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22, and Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors used on competition pulling engines that run at high RPMs or at wide open throttle. Minimizes float bouncing due to normal single cylinder engine vibration, which could cause momentary engine misfire and/or fuel spillage out of the atmospheric vent opening (air passageway from inside the float bowl area to outside of carburetor). Listed mainly for off-road utility vehicles and generator/welders; not necessary for general lawn and garden equipment or 4,000± RPM competition pulling engines.
  • Used and in excellent condition. $7.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available)
  • New. OEM Kohler part # 237917-S. $14.15 each, plus shipping & handling.
Float Bowl with 5/16" Hole. Designed for Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors used on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, and various other makes and models of small engines with the Carter Model N carburetor. Dimensions: 2-3/8" O.D. x 1-1/4" height x 5/16" bottom hole. NOTE: The float bowls listed below can be used in place of this one. The 5/16" bottom bolt/washer will seal the 3/8" hole.
  • OEM Kohler part # 200418-S. Available in soft aluminum only. $22.55 each, plus shipping & handling.


Float Bowls with 3/8" Hole. Fits Carter and Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors used on Kohler engine models K241, K301, K330/K331, K321, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582. Also fits Briggs and Stratton 7hp-12hp vertical shaft flathead engine carburetors. NOTE: The Briggs & Stratton steel float bowl has the exact same dimensions as the Carter/Kohler aluminum float bowl. Either are interchangeable. (The early B&S 7-12hp vertical shaft flathead engine float carburetors was designed and made by the Carter Carburetor Corporation.) Dimensions of each float bowl: 2-3/8" O.D. x 1-1/4" height x 3/8" bottom hole.

  • Durable Anodized Steel Float Bowl. Will not dent easily and not corrode through due to water contamination. OEM Briggs and Stratton part # 221995. $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Soft Aluminum Float Bowl. OEM Kohler part # 235448-S. $16.60 each, plus shipping & handling.
Carburetor Overhaul Kits with Viton-tip fuel inlet float valve. Fits Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors that's used on Kohler Magnum engine models M8, M10, M12, M14, M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20 single- and twin-cylinder flathead cast iron block engines. May also fit certain carburetors used on Onan engines. All rubber-like parts made of alcohol-resistant neoprene rubber. Includes carburetor mounting gasket. NOTE: On all Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors, the fuel inlet seat is pressed-in at the factory. If it's removed and replaced with a new one, the carburetor body may be rendered useless, because it will mostly likely leak fuel. So it'll be best to just install a new fuel inlet valve and leave the seat alone. Remember - in the laws of physics, the moving part will wear more than the stationary part.
  • OEM Walbro part # K1-WHG. $13.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 25 757 11-S. (Same as above È, made by Walbro.) $59.75 each, plus shipping & handling.


Alcohol-Resistant Viton-tip fuel inlet float valve. Fits Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors that's used on Kohler Magnum engine models M8, M10, M12, M14, M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20 single- and twin-cylinder flathead cast iron block engines. May also fit certain carburetors used on Onan engines. NOTE: On all Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors, the fuel inlet seat is pressed-in at the factory. If it's removed and replaced with a new one, the carburetor body may be rendered useless, because it will mostly likely leak fuel. So it'll be best to just install a new fuel inlet valve and leave the seat alone. Remember - in the laws of physics, the moving part will wear more than the stationary part. Not available separate from Kohler. OEM Walbro part # 82-529-7. $3.50 each, plus shipping & handling.


Alcohol-Resistant Viton-tip fuel inlet float valve. Fits Walbro carburetors used on cast iron block Clinton and Tecumseh engines. Replaces: Clinton part # 293-30-5; Walbro part #'s 200-506, 200-547.

  • High quality aftermarket. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Walbro part. $11.40 each, plus shipping & handling.


Alcohol-Resistant Neoprene Rubber Float Bowl Rubber O-Ring Seal. Fits Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors that's used on Kohler Magnum engine models M8, M10, M12, M14, M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20 single- and twin-cylinder flathead cast iron block engines. May also fit certain carburetors used on Onan engines. Dimensions (±): 2-3/8" I.D. x 2-1/2" O.D. x .065" thickness. Square cross-section.

  • OEM Walbro part #'s 92-16-8, 92-301-8. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Kohler part # 25 041 04-S. (Same as above È, made by Walbro.) $5.74 each, plus shipping & handling.


Plastic Floats. Fits Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors used on newer Kohler Magnum engine models M8, M10, M12, M14, M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. May also fit certain carburetors used on Onan engines. May also fit certain carburetors used on Onan engines.
  • OEM Walbro part # 75-566-1. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Kohler part # 25 757 09-S. (Same as above È, made by Walbro.) $20.59 each, plus shipping & handling.


Float bowls. Fits Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors used on Kohler Magnum engine models K141, K160/K161, K181/M8, K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. May also fit certain carburetors used on Onan engines. 2½" outside diameter. Each made of dent-proof, anodized, corrosion-resistant steel.
  • OEM Walbro part # 20-180-1. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Kohler part # 25 104 01-S. (Same as above È, made by Walbro.) $18.05 each, plus shipping & handling.
5/16" I.D. Float Bowl Sealing Gaskets. Fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors, smaller Briggs & Stratton, Mikuni, Tecumseh and various other makes and models of small engine carburetors. The 5/16" gasket is not included in the Carter/Kohler carburetor overhaul/rebuild kit.
  • Fiber Gasket. High quality aftermarket. Replaces Briggs & Stratton part #'s 221172, 271716, 691608, 691898, and Tecumseh part #'s 27110A, 632673, 640042. $1.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Soft Aluminum Gasket. Briggs & Stratton part #'s 222014, 397882, 690618. $1.60 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Fiber Gasket. OEM Kohler Kohler part # 200372-S. $2.10 each, plus shipping & handling.

3/8" I.D. Float Bowl Sealing Gaskets. Fits Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors, Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetors, WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors. Also fits certain larger Briggs & Stratton and various other makes and models of small engine carburetors. Included with Carter/Kohler carburetor overhaul/rebuild kit. Each washer listed below replaces Kohler part #'s 12 041 06-S, 25 041 03-S.

  • Fiber Gasket. OEM Walbro part # 92-300-8. .45¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Fiber Gasket. Briggs & Stratton part # 271716. .50¢ each, plus shipping & handling.


Float Bowl Retaining Bolts. Fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors used on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, including many other makes and models of various small engines. Each includes fiber sealing washer. Dimensions: 1/2" head x 5/16-24 UNF threads x 3/8" thread length.

  • High quality aftermarket. Stainless steel material A-1 Miller part. Replaces Kohler part # 41 100 01-S. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • New Old Stock or Used and in Excellent Condition. Discontinued OEM Kohler part # 41 100 01-S. $7.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)

Float Bowl Retaining Bolts. Fits Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors, and Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors used on Kohler engine models M8, K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Also fits the carburetor on all Briggs & Stratton opposed twin cylinder flathead engines. Replaces obsolete Briggs & Stratton part # 397882. Each includes fiber sealing washer.

  • 1/2" head x 3/8-24 UNF threads x 3/8" thread length. OEM Walbro part # 96-340-7. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 1/2" head x 3/8-24 UNF threads x 3/8" thread length. OEM Kohler part # 12 086 05-S. (Same as above È, made by Walbro.) $2.58 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 9/16" head x 3/8-24 UNF threads x 3/8" thread length. New Old Stock or Used and in Excellent Condition. Discontinued OEM Kohler part # 47 100 06-S. $5.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
Convert the Carter or Kohler #26, #28 or #30 Carburetors to a Bottom Main Fuel Adjuster -

The bottom high speed main air/fuel adjustment assembly is not an OEM Kohler part and is not a modification by Kohler. This is an absolute must for a competition pulling engine that runs at very high RPM or wide open throttle. It provides no high performance engine enhancements whatsoever. It's an add-on feature that replaces the OEM float bowl retaining bolt above È only to prevent wearing or enlarging the fuel suction hole in the main jet by the OEM high speed needle air/fuel adjustment screw due to normal engine vibration at very high RPM or wide open throttle engine operations. (Whoever says that the use of this part will increase the performance of an engine obviously do not know what they are talking about, or they are in the business of selling new main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube)s, which can be very difficult to remove.) The carburetor must be converted to the bottom adjustment screw when using this part. Fits all Carter or Kohler #26, #28 and #30 carburetors used on Kohler K-series and early Magnum engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361. Can also be used in the carburetor on all Briggs & Stratton opposed twin cylinder flathead engines to "fine tune" the air/fuel mixture. Read below how to covert the carburetor for use with a bottom main fuel adjustment screw. NOTICE: Being I have no idea how long the bottom adjusters that I order from my suppliers been sitting on their shelf, the original rubber O-ring may or may not be deteriorated, cracked and dry-rotted. The new bottom adjuster can be used the way it is, but if it leaks fuel, it will need a new O-ring installed. Make sure the compression nut is snug against the O-ring too, to prevent a fuel leak and to prevent the adjuster valve from rotating on its own from normal engine vibrations. $17.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

New high quality alcohol-resistant neoprene rubber O-ring seal for bottom main fuel adjustment assembly above È. Dimensions: 5/32" I.D. x 9/32" O.D. .25¢ each, plus shipping & handling.

How to Easily Convert the Carter or Kohler #26, #28 or #30 Carburetors to a Bottom Main Fuel Adjuster - An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this type of foolproof conversion. [Top of Page]

This conversion has been proven many times to function flawlessly for a high RPM or wide open throttle competition pulling engine. The bottom main fuel adjuster is not an OEM Kohler part and not a modification by Kohler. Actually, this is the same principle that was used on Briggs & Stratton's 6-12.5hp vertical shaft flathead engines, and it works excellent! It provides no high performance enhancements and no "added horsepower" to the engine whatsoever. This part is an absolute must for a competition pulling engine that runs at very high RPM or wide open throttle. It's an add-on feature that replaces the OEM float bowl retaining bolt only to prevent wearing or enlarging of the fuel suction hole (orifice) in the main jet by the pointed end of the OEM high speed needle adjuster due to normal vibration at very high RPM or wide open throttle engine operation. Whoever says the use of the bottom main fuel adjuster will increase the performance of an engine obviously do not know what they are talking about, or they are in the business of selling new main jet/nozzles, which can be very difficult to remove. Rather the main jet/nozzle can be easily removed with a screwdriver or drilled into and chiseled out. If the main jet/nozzle is not removed carefully, damage to the carburetor could result, rendering it useless. Also, with a bored-out venturi, a 60º angle will need to be precisely ground on the end of the nozzle in exact alignment with the centerline of the throttle bore so engine vacuum will draw fuel through the main jet/nozzle immediately upon revving up. A bored-out venturi and reworked carburetor is when the carburetor is modified for maximum performance for general yard and garden use, and/or for competition pulling.

Due to normal engine vibration at high RPM or wide open throttle operation, the pointed tip on the OEM top high speed air/fuel needle adjuster will "severely vibrate around" inside the main jet hole (orifice) of the main jet/nozzle. The tip of the flexible brass needle adjuster will eventually wear the main jet hole (orifice) so large, the engine will run rich on fuel, and over time as the hole (orifice) wears even larger, further lean adjustments will be impossible. This will happen with gas or alcohol fuels. There is no way to prevent this from happening except convert the carburetor to the bottom main fuel adjuster. And when the carburetor is reworked with the venturi bored-out (straight-through throttle bore design) for high performance use, this equals the performance of the popular "Super Carb" competition pulling carburetor. (Which we think is a very fine performance carburetor.) Also, if you're wondering if the presence of the OEM high speed adjuster tube will slow the incoming airflow through the "straight through" throttle bore, well, the throttle plate and shaft are about 30% wider than the high speed adjuster tube, even with the throttle shaft ground/milled narrow or thin to allow for more airflow through the carburetor. FYI - The bottom main fuel adjuster was originally introduced on the Briggs & Stratton 7hp-12hp vertical shaft flathead engine carburetors, which was designed and made by the Carter Carburetor Corporation. The B&S bottom adjuster has 5/16" threads and will not fit the Carter or Kohler #26, #28 or #30 carburetors.

How to Convert a Carburetor to the Bottom Main Fuel Adjuster:

  1. Break off the tip on the top OEM high speed needle adjuster at the lower idle fuel feed hole (orifice) with pliers. Make sure inside the tube is open and not clogged with dried gas or debris to allow fuel to still be drawn through the tube so the engine will idle). And bevel the end of the tube so fuel can flow past it smoothly at high RPM. Preferably use an OEM adjuster with a damaged tip for this conversion. There's no need to ruin a good adjuster for this.
  2. Remove the OEM compression pressure spring from the high speed adjuster and install a spacer or stack of flat washers measuring approximately 9/32" in height in place of the spring. The 9/32" height positions the end of the high speed adjuster stem/tube about midway in the float bowl and about 3/16" above the main jet hole (orifice) so fuel will be drawn through the tube so the engine will idle.
  3. Reinstall the top OEM high speed needle adjuster in the carburetor body with the spacer or washers and tighten it in place, making it fixed in place and non-adjustable.
  4. Reinstall the float, bowl, etc., and install the bottom main fuel adjuster (instead of the OEM float bowl retaining bolt), and tighten the adjuster. IMPORTANT - Before tightening the bottom adjuster, back off the needle (in the adjuster) to keep it from jamming into the main jet hole, possibly causing damage or stripping the threads in the carburetor body!
  5. Install the carburetor on the engine, linkages and fuel hose on the carburetor, start the engine, and adjust the idle air/fuel mixture screw and the high speed air/fuel mixture bottom adjuster until the engine runs smooth at idle and at high RPM or wide open throttle. NOTE: Absolutely nothing needs to be done to the idle fuel passageways or the idle fuel mixture adjusting screw. Just leave them alone. The engine should idle fine after the conversion. And there's no need to install a small brass tube next to the float for the idle fuel passageway. The tube could interfere with the operation of the float. Return To Previous Paragraph or Section
New Brass Main Jet/Nozzle (Emulsion Tube). Fits all Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors used on Kohler K-series and early Magnum engine models K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361 and opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engines. Drilled for gas. This part is professionally CNC machined in the USA and not available from Kohler. NOTE: When rebuilding a plain, stock Carter or Kohler carburetor, there is no need to remove the main jet/nozzle. If it won't come out, then don't worry about it. All that has to be done to make sure the bottom hole and the side holes on it are open. To check if the side holes are open, simply spray carburetor cleaner or WD-40 or carburetor cleaner (in an aerosol spray can) through the small hole just under the choke plate and observe if the spray exits out the main jet/nozzle inside the throttle bore and bottom of carburetor. But if modifying a carburetor to bore the venturi, the main jet/nozzle must be removed. Click or tap here for how to remove the main jet/nozzle.
  • $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Kohler Anti-Backfire/Engine Shut-Off Solenoid Valve Kit. The solenoid valve [in the carburetor] shuts off the engine when the ignition is turned off. The way it works is, upon engine shut down, the valve blocks air from entering the float bowl through the atmospheric vent opening (air passageway from inside the float bowl area to outside of carburetor; which is where the solenoid valve is located). When this happens, the engine can't draw fuel, so it shuts down. The solenoid is energized the entire time the ignition switch is on. The reason Kohler installed this feature is to prevent the engine from producing a loud backfire sound (BANG!) out the muffler when it's shut off. With the solenoid in working condition and upon engine shut down, no unburned fuel enters the hot muffler, therefore, no backfire. When the solenoid fails or goes bad, the engine will not start. This particular part is designed for Kohler engine models K181 with specification numbers: 13802, 13803, 13804, 13805, 13806, 13807, 13808, 13809, 13810, 13811, 13812, 13813, 13814, 13815, 13816, 13817, 13818, 13820, 30671, 30715, 30739; M18 with specification numbers: 24600, 24603, 24610, 24637, 24652, 49547, 49564, 49605; K582 with specification numbers: 36246, 36249, 36261, 36266, 36268, 36285, 36389, 36310, 36389, 36327, 36202-36389, 36337, 36350, 36371, 36373, 36389, 36376, 36382, 36392. OEM Kohler part # 25 755 05-S. $82.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

NOTE: Being the solenoid (OEM Kohler part # 25 755 06-S) for Kohler engine models M18 with specification numbers: 24563, 24568, 24574, 24577, 24592, 24594, 24599, 24619, 24630, 24631, 24636, 24646, 24655, 24656, 24659, 24664, 24674, 24696, 49514, 49544, 49545, 49565, 49569, 49570, 49572; M20 with specification numbers: 49584, 49595, 49599, 49608, 49623, 49624, 49629; MV20 with specification numbers: 57501-57514, 57527, 57528 is no longer available, to convert these engines without use of the solenoid, remove the failed solenoid and valve, cut some short threads in the hole (remove the float bowl first and use compressed air to clear out the metal cuttings), and install a 3/8" Allen set screw in the hole. Don't thread the set screw deep in the hole, or it will block off outside atmospheric air from entering the float bowl. Without a solenoid, the engine would require a different ignition switch to shut off the spark. And the engine should be idled down before shutting it off to lessen the chance of a backfire out the muffler.

Idle Air/Fuel Mixture Adjustment Screw. Fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors with following numbers stamped on top of carburetor body: G-220517, C-231738, B-231739, 41 053 01, 41 053 13, 41 053 18, 41 053 20 used with Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161 and K181. This same part also fits the Carter and Kohler #28 or #30 carburetors with the 1.17", 1.2" or 1.25" throttle bore with following numbers stamped on mounting flange: 45 053 08, 45 053 09, 45 053 12, 45 053 20, 45 053 68, 45 053 70, 45 053 76, 45 053 86, 45 053 87, 45 053 88, 45 053 89, 47 053 03, 47 053 09, 47 053 15, 47 053 16, 47 053 17, 47 053 20, 47 053 30, 47 053 41, 47 053 63, 47 053 78 used with Kohler engine models K321, K341 and K361. If there's no numbers anywhere on the carburetor body, then it's definitely an aftermarket Chinese-made carburetor. Because Carter, Kohler and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on the flange of all their carburetors. Short step tip. Dimensions: .865" overall length x .200" tip length. High quality aftermarket. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part #'s 275231-S and 200438-S. NOTE: Being this aftermarket idle mixture screw has slightly smaller diameter threads than the OEM idle mixture screw, it's recommended to use this with a snug-fitting neoprene rubber O-ring (below) on an OEM Carter or Kohler carburetor. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Neoprene Rubber O-Ring for Aftermarket Idle Air/Fuel Mixture Adjustment Screw (above) when used on the OEM Carter or Kohler #28 or #30 carburetors. This is an add-on item; Carter and Kohler carburetors did not originally come with an O-ring on the idle mixture screw. Install this part to help the engine start quickly (when throttle is in idle position), idle smoothly, and idle down upon deceleration without stalling. .25¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
Idle Air/Fuel Mixture Adjustment Screw. Fits Carter or Kohler #26 carburetors with 1.07" throttle bore used with Kohler engine models K241, K301 and K330/K331. Designed specifically for Kohler carburetors with following numbers stamped on mounting flange: 47 053 07, 47 053 08, 47 053 12, 47 053 13, 47 053 14, 47 053 15, 47 053 16, 47 053 24, 47 053 29, 47 053 35, 47 053 40, 47 053 62, 47 053 80, 52 053 60. If there's no numbers anywhere on the carburetor body, then it's definitely an aftermarket Chinese-made carburetor. Because Carter, Kohler and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on the flange of all their carburetors. Long step tip. Dimensions: .925" overall length x .260" tip length. Being this is an OEM part, a rubber O-ring is not required. Not available in aftermarket. Used and in excellent condition. Discontinued OEM Kohler part # 235006-S. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
Idle Air/Fuel Mixture Adjustment Screw. Fits Kohler carburetors used on Kohler KT-series engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, and models K482, K532 and K582. Designed specifically for Kohler carburetors with following numbers stamped on mounting flange: 48 053 06 (K582), 52 053 09, 52 053 18, 52 053 28. If there's no numbers anywhere on the carburetor body, then it's definitely an aftermarket Chinese-made carburetor. Because Carter, Kohler and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on the flange of all their carburetors. Long tapered tip. Dimensions: 1.026" overall length x .404" tip length. Being this is an OEM part, a rubber O-ring is not required. Not available in aftermarket. Used and in excellent condition. Discontinued OEM Kohler part # 277210-S. $7.45 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)


High Speed Air/Fuel Mixture Needle Adjustment Screws. Fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 Carburetors. NOTE: Various high speed adjusters are designed for a particular carburetor. The part number of the carburetor to match the type of adjuster are listed below. Kohler don't give their dealers much information on this. When compared the type of adjuster to the part numbers on each carburetor, we found that some are in fact different. The tiny holes midway on the stem of the high speed adjuster allows a small amount of air to be mixed with fuel through the idle circuit so the engine won't idle too rich or too lean on fuel. And with no tiny holes present midway on the stem allows full flow of fuel through the idle circuit, which when used in a wrong carburetor, may cause the engine to idle too rich on fuel. So if an engine idles well (with the present adjuster), then the carburetor has the correct adjuster. Also, being the high speed adjusters are made of soft brass, if the pointed tip is slightly bent, it can be easily straightened with pliers and reused, and should not effect engine performance whatsoever. It's a valve that regulates the amount of fuel that goes in the engine. The tip does not need to be centered with the hole in the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube). Gas will still get around it. And over-tightening the needle in the main jet hole will crush the tip out of shape, making it difficult to regulate the fuel. If the tips is damaged from being overtightened, the high speed adjuster will need to be replaced.

High Speed Air/Fuel Mixture Needle Adjustment Screws. Fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20 and #22 carburetors that's used on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161 and K181. Lower hole enlarged so engine will start quicker (when throttle is in idle position), idle better, and idle down upon deceleration without stalling. The two parts listed below Ê are identical in every way except 200410-S is listed for Carter carburetors having the following numbers stamped on top of carburetor body: A-230798, A-231966, B-231231, B-231450, B-231469, C-231738, E-231480, E-231488, E-231489, F-230350, F-230502, G-220517, G-230500, 231287, 24588, 41 053 06, 41 053 13, 41 053 14. And 200410-S is listed for Carter carburetors having the following numbers stamped on top of carburetor body: A-231741, A-234641, C-231738, B-231739, 41 053 01, 41 053 04, 41 053 05, 41 053 06, 41 053 18, 41 053 20. IMPORTANT - Please check numbers on carburetor before ordering and go here to identify the correct part for any particular carburetor: Kohler Carburetor Reference Manual. If there's no numbers anywhere on the carburetor body, then it's definitely an aftermarket Chinese-made carburetor. Because Carter, Kohler and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on the flange of all their carburetors.

  • High quality aftermarket. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part #'s 200410-S and 232635-S. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


High Speed Air/Fuel Mixture Needle Adjustment Screws. Fits Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 Carburetors. NOTE: Various high speed adjusters are designed for a particular carburetor. The part number of the carburetor to match the type of adjuster are listed below. Kohler don't give their dealers much information on this. When compared the type of adjuster to the part numbers on each carburetor, we found that some are in fact different. The tiny holes midway on the stem of the high speed adjuster allows a small amount of air to be mixed with fuel through the idle circuit so the engine won't idle too rich or too lean on fuel. And with no tiny holes midway on the stem allows full flow of fuel through the idle circuit, which when used in a wrong carburetor, may cause the engine to idle too rich on fuel. So if an engine idles well (with the present adjuster), then the carburetor has the correct adjuster. Also, being the high speed adjusters are made of soft brass, if the pointed tip is slightly bent, it can be easily straightened with pliers and reused, and should not effect engine performance whatsoever. It's a valve that regulates the amount of fuel that goes in the engine. The tip does not need to be centered with the hole in the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube). Gas will still get around it. And over-tightening the needle in the main jet hole will crush the tip out of shape, making it difficult to regulate the fuel. If the tips is damaged from being overtightened, the high speed adjuster will need to be replaced. Or the damaged tip can be broken off at the lower hole(s), and the [#26, #28 or #30] carburetor can be converted for use with a bottom main fuel adjuster.

High Speed Air/Fuel Mixture Needle Adjustment Screw. Fits certain Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors used on Kohler K-series and early Magnum flathead engine models K241, K301, K330/K331, K321, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20 and certain K532 and K582 engines. 3-3/8" overall length. Has four tiny holes midway on the stem (this is important so the engine will idle correctly) and two holes on lower stem. Interchangeable with discontinued OEM Kohler high speed adjuster part # 52 103 01-S, which has four tiny holes midway on the stem and one hole on lower stem. Lower hole enlarged so engine will start quicker (when throttle is in idle position), idle better, and idle down upon deceleration without stalling. There's no need to do this on adjusters with two lower holes. Designed specifically for Kohler carburetors with following numbers stamped on mounting flange: 47 053 07, 47 053 08, 47 053 12, 47 053 13, 47 053 14, 47 053 24, 47 053 29, 47 053 35, 47 053 40, 47 053 62, 47 053 80, 48 053 06 (K582), 52 053 01, 52 053 02, 52 053 09, 52 053 10, 52 053 11, 52 053 16, 52 053 18 and 52 053 28. IMPORTANT - Please check numbers on carburetor before ordering and go here to identify the correct part for any particular carburetor: Kohler Carburetor Reference Manual. If there's no numbers anywhere on the carburetor body, then it's definitely an aftermarket Chinese-made carburetor. Because Carter, Kohler and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on the flange of all their carburetors.

  • High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 235415-S. $19.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 235415-S. $36.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


High Speed Air/Fuel Mixture Needle Adjustment Screw. Fits certain Carter or Kohler #28, #30 carburetors used on Kohler K-series and early Magnum single cylinder engine models K321, K341 and K361. 3-3/8" overall length. Has two tiny holes midway on the stem (this is important so the engine will idle correctly) and one hole on lower stem. Lower hole enlarged so engine will start quicker (when throttle is in idle position), idle better, and idle down upon deceleration without stalling. There's no need to do this on adjusters with two lower holes. Designed specifically for Kohler carburetors with following numbers stamped on mounting flange: 4174S (Carter), 45 053 08, 45 053 12, 45 053 20, 45 053 26, 45 053 68, 45 053 70, 45 053 76, 45 053 77 and 47 053 11. IMPORTANT - Please check numbers on carburetor before ordering and go here to identify the correct part for any particular carburetor: Kohler Carburetor Reference Manual. If there's no numbers anywhere on the carburetor body, then it's definitely an aftermarket Chinese-made carburetor. Because Carter, Kohler and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on the flange of all their carburetors.
  • Used and in excellent condition or New Old Stock (NOS). Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part's # 45 103 01-S and 45 103 02-S. $16.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


High Speed Air/Fuel Mixture Needle Adjustment Screw. Fits certain Carter #30 carburetors used on certain Kohler engine models K321, and Kohler #26, 1.07" throttle bore carburetors used on Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582. 3-3/8" overall length. Each has no tiny holes midway on the stem (this is important so the engine will idle correctly) and one lower hole on stem. Lower hole enlarged so engine will start quicker (when throttle is in idle position), idle better, and idle down upon deceleration without stalling. There's no need to do this on adjusters with two lower holes. Designed specifically for certain Carter and Kohler carburetors with following numbers stamped on mounting flange: A236636 (Carter #30), 47 053 03, 47 053 09, 47 053 15, 47 053 16, 47 053 17, 47 053 20, 47 053 30, 47 053 41, 47 053 63 and 47 053 78. IMPORTANT - Please check numbers on carburetor before ordering and go here to identify the correct part for any particular carburetor: Kohler Carburetor Reference Manual. But if there's no numbers stamped anywhere on the carburetor body, then it is definitely an aftermarket Chinese-made carburetor. Because Carter, Kohler and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on their carburetors.
  • Used and in excellent condition. 15º angled tip; listed for Kohler engine models K241 w/specification # 46743, K482, K532, K582 w/specification #'s 36224 and 36231. Discontinued OEM Kohler part # 47 103 01-S. $18.60 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
  • Used and in excellent condition. 30º angled tip; listed for Carter #30 carburetor A236636 used on Kohler engine models K321 and K341 installed in Cub Cadet models 147, 149 and 169; also listed for K582 engines w/specification #'s 36202-36394, except above È. Discontinued OEM Kohler part #'s 237489-S, 48 103 01-S. $23.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)


Quality-Made High Speed Steel Spiral Drill Bit. Use this to enlarge the lower hole (orifice) on high speed needle air/fuel adjuster screws in Carter or Kohler #26, #28 and #30 carburetors to create more suction through the tube for the fuel so engine will start quicker (when throttle is in idle position), idle better, and idle down upon deceleration without stalling. No need to use this on adjusters with two lower holes. Useful for yard and garden engines, and competition pulling engines. Size: 1/32" diameter x 1-3/8" length. NOTE: Carefully enlarge the hole by hand with drill bit clamped in a mini micro pin vise hand drill chuck. Be careful when handling any tiny drill bit because they can break easily. After enlarging hole, use 150± PSI compressed air to clear out any metal cuttings from inside the adjuster tube. An ingenious, thoroughly researched and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this. Return To Previous Paragraph or Section
  • 1/32" drill bit only. $1.60 each, plus shipping & handling.
Welch Plugs for Various Small Engine Carburetors. Concave/dish-shaped. Each expands .002"-.003" larger in diameter when installed and flattened out in counterbore hole. No sealant required. By the way - on the Carter and Kohler #26, #28 and #30 carburetors, the smaller plug just above the idle fuel adjusting needle does not need to be replaced for cleaning of the idle fuel passageway, and there is no replacement for this plug.
  • 3/8" Size (.374" Diameter) Aluminum Welch Plug. Fits Carter and Kohler #26, #28 and #30 carburetors, and Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors, and may fit other small engine carburetors. OEM Walbro part # 88-180-8. $1.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 7/16" Size (.4374" Diameter) Aluminum Welch Plug. Fits Kohler Command single cylinder engine carburetors, Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh, and may fit other carburetors. Replaces Tecumseh part # 630748. OEM Walbro part # 88-55-8. $1.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
Carburetor Mounting Screws/Bolts w/Slotted Head and Flat Washers. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161 and K181/M8 with Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22, or Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetor. NOTE: Use small slotted screwdriver to start screws in threaded holes. Size: 1/4-20 UNC x 3/4" thread length.
  • Fabricated A-1 Miller part. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # X-140-1-S. $4.00/two, plus shipping & handling.


Carburetor Mounting Screws/Bolts w/Slotted Head and Flat Washers. Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K330/K331, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 with Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30, or Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetor. NOTE: Use small slotted screwdriver to start screws in threaded holes. Size: 5/16-18 UNC x 1" thread length.

  • Fabricated A-1 Miller part. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # X-770-1-S. $4.00/two, plus shipping & handling.


Carburetor Mounting Stud Kits with Serrated Flange Nuts. Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K330/K331, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 with Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30, or Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetor. NOTE: Apply medium strength liquid threadlocker on threads of studs to secure them in block (or OHV head). 5/16-18 UNC thread size. Fabricated A-1 Miller parts.

  • Kit with two 1-1/4" length studs and nuts. Use with gasket. $5.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Kit with two 2-1/4" length studs and nuts. Use with 1" aluminum carburetor spacer. $5.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
A worn loose throttle shaft is the #1 cause of most engines wearing out and burning oil prematurely. If a carburetor has a worn throttle shaft, this will create a vacuum leak and the engine will idle poorly, if at all at times. With a worn throttle shaft, the engine will draw in dusty and dirty outside air through the throttle shaft and carburetor body, causing increased wear to the throttle shaft and possibly carburetor body, intake valve face/seat and score the cylinder wall, and engine will eventually burn oil, blow blue smoke out the exhaust and lose power. More than .010" of play is considered too much for throttle shaft wear. The most accurate way to check for the amount of wear is with a dial indicator. Plus, at normal governed operating speed (3,600 RPM), the extra incoming air will cause the engine to run lean on fuel (lean out the air/fuel mixture), which will overheat the combustion chamber and cause the cylinder head to warp, resulting in a blown head gasket, and the piston and rings to wear prematurely, eventually resulting in severe engine wear, excessive oil burning and loss of power.

Furthermore, all Carter or Kohler and Walbro carburetors didn't come with a throttle shaft bushing installed by the factory. A new bushing (and [oiled] foam seal; see below Ê) must be installed when the throttle shaft is worn loose in the carburetor body, or if the throttle shaft is severely worn thin, a new bushing along with a new throttle shaft (and foam seal) must be installed. The oil on the foam seal traps and blocks any dust and dirt from entering past the bushing and throttle shaft. If there's a counterbore (recession in the carburetor body) where the throttle shaft is, a short, flat bronze bushing can be installed, and if the original throttle shaft isn't worn much, it can be reused. But if there's no counterbore, the carburetor body will need to be precision aligned-bored for installation of a bronze sleeve bushing, and chances are, a new throttle shaft will also need to be installed. Precise machining of the carburetor body is required for installation of the sleeve bushing. And ALL Carter and Kohler #26, #28 and #30, and the older Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors have the counterbore. Only the newer Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64, and the Chinese-made aftermarket carburetors don't have the counterbore. If the carburetor has the counterbore, the throttle shaft will need to be removed, the dirt and debris will need to be cleaned out from the counterbore, and then the short, flat bushing can be installed. The [oiled] foam seal will need to be installed on the throttle shaft before installing in the carburetor body. But if there's no counterbore, the upper hole in the carburetor body will need to be bored out in precision alignment with the lower hole in a milling machine, and then a bronze sleeve bushing can be installed. Along with regular maintenance, proper repair of a worn throttle shaft is required to help an engine last a long time. Return To Previous Paragraph or Section

Protective Foam Rubber Dust/Dirt Seal (reticulated polyurethane foam) for Throttle Shaft in certain Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh, Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22; Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30; Walbro WHL #36, #44, #52, #60, #64 carburetors, and various other carburetors. For Kohler engine models K91, K141, K161, K181/M8, K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K241/M16, K361, MV16, KT17, KT17II, KT19, KT19II, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Dimensions (±): 7/32" I.D. (will stretch over a 1/4" shaft) x 7/16" O.D. x 5/32" thick. NOTE: Apply clean motor oil on seal to trap dust and dirt. When installed, seal is compressed between throttle lever and carburetor body (or installed bushing) to prevent dust and dirt from wearing throttle shaft and/or carburetor body. Click or tap here to learn how to remove Carter or Kohler throttle or choke plate retaining screws without breaking them off. OEM Walbro part #'s 156-18-8, 156-24-8 or OEM Briggs & Stratton part #'s 691321, 691869. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling. | [Top of Page] Return To Previous Paragraph or Section


Protective Felt Dust/Dirt Seal. Fits Throttle Shaft in Certain Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh, and Kohler K482, K532 and K582 carburetors. Made of interconnected cloth fibers. Dimensions (±): 7/32" I.D. (will stretch over a 1/4" shaft) x 3/8" O.D. x 1/8" thick. NOTE: Seal is compressed between spring-loaded washer on throttle shaft and carburetor body to prevent dust and dirt from wearing throttle shaft and carburetor body. Apply clean motor oil on seal before installing to trap dust and dirt to prevent wearing of throttle shaft and/or upper hole in carburetor body or bushing. Click or tap here to learn how to remove Carter or Kohler throttle or choke plate soft brass retaining screws without breaking them off. OEM Briggs & Stratton part #'s 270167, 271853, 692279. $4.00 each, plus shipping & handling. | [Top of Page] Return To Previous Paragraph or Section


Bronze throttle shaft bushingShort, Flat Bronze Throttle Shaft Bushing. Fits all Carter and Kohler #26, #28, #30 and adjustable main jet Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors [with a counterbore] that's used on Kohler K-series and early Magnum engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K330/K331, K321/M14, K341/M16, K361 and KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20. NOTE: All Carter and Kohler #26, #28 and #30, and early Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors have an 1/8" depth x 7/16" diameter counterbore to accept this short, flat bronze bushing. If there's a [worn] rubber seal in the counterbore, this bushing will replace it. On all Carter, Kohler and certain Walbro carburetors, the throttle shaft is not worn 1/8" below the lever. The bushing makes contact with this area to give the shaft a second life. All older Kohler throttle shafts are like this. (Kohler was thinking ahead with this design.) To install the bushing, thoroughly clean out the counterbore, and place the bushing on a 1/4" x 1" length bolt, and use a small hammer to drive the bushing into the counterbore. The bushing should have a tight fit, so thread lock is not required. Apply clean motor oil on throttle shaft before installing for smooth throttle operation and less wear to shaft, bushing or carburetor body. Dimensions: 1/4" I.D. x 7/16" O.D. x 1/8" height. Click or tap here to learn how to remove Carter or Kohler throttle or choke plate retaining screws without breaking them off. [Return to Previous Section]

  • High quality aftermarket. Precision-made in the USA of compressed sintered bronze. Long-lasting and porous (retains oil) material. Replaces Kohler part # 25 158 02-S. $4.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 25 158 02-S. $12.40 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • A-1 Miller's Installation Service: Install this throttle shaft bushing in your carburetor. $25.00 each for parts (new bushing and screws) and labor, plus return shipping & handling. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in this repair service. An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this service.

Installation Instructions: The above È bushing makes contact with the upper 1/8" unworn part of the throttle shaft. The original throttle shaft can be reused with the bushing if it isn't severely worn or damaged. To install the bushing, first of all, to avoid breaking off the soft OEM brass throttle (or choke) plate retaining screws, use a Dremel or equivalent small rotary grinder chucked with either an 1/8" high speed steel end mill or a chainsaw sharpening stone to grind away the flared end of the screws, then the screws can be easily removed without breaking off. But if you didn't read this information beforehand, and the screw(s) broke off, they can be successfully drilled out with the throttle (or choke) shaft clamped in a machine vise fastened to the table of a milling machine, use a 3/16" center drill bit (and possibly a large magnifying glass for precision to guarantee dead center-drilling of the screw), then use a drill press with a 5/64" drill bit to finish drilling out the screw. And then use a 3-48 UNC hand tap to straighten the threads in the shaft.

Clean out the counterbore of the carburetor body, and to align the bushing perpendicular with the counterbore, slide the bushing on a 1/4" or 6mm screw or bolt, and insert the screw or bolt in the throttle shaft hole, and use small hammer or bench vise to tap- or press-in the bushing, and then reinstall the shaft. If the bushing fits somewhat loose in the counterbore, lightly tap the sides of the counterbore with a hammer to make the counterbore slightly oblong or egg-shaped. And do not reuse the OEM soft brass throttle or choke plate retaining screws! Because being the threads are already "stretched" from being previous installed, they could break off while being tightened or possibly loosen and dislodge later, which can damage the valves or piston. If the screws loosen or become dislodged, the engine will not idle down.

Additional Note: Usually the short, flat bronze bushing will snug up a worn throttle shaft. With oil for lubrication, the bushing and shaft should last a long time. However, the newer Walbro and the Chinese-made carburetors have no counterbore for the bushing, and sometimes in these carburetors, especially the Walbro, the [upper] throttle shaft hole will wear oblong. Sometimes the throttle shaft will wear, too. When the hole wears oblong, just installing a new shaft will not fix the problem. To repair a worn, oblong hole, it must be precision-bored precisely aligned with the [unworn] lower hole, and a bronze sleeve bushing would need to be installed along with a new throttle shaft. On other makes of carburetors, if the original shaft is worn and a new throttle shaft isn't available, then a new throttle shaft would need to be machined/fabricated. The throttle lever can be reused and welded to the new machined/fabricated shaft. And if necessary, a slightly oversized throttle shaft can be installed instead of the original diameter shaft. I can do all of these things for $50.00± each for parts and labor, plus return shipping & handling.

A-1 Miller's Repair Service - If the throttle shaft is worn loose in a Walbro or an aftermarket Chinese-made carburetor, I can repair these, too. Work includes: Precision align-bore throttle shaft hole in carburetor body for installation of a bronze sleeve bushing. If the original throttle shaft is worn, this will need to be replaced as well. The price is $35.00 for labor to bore the carburetor body and $15.00 or $20.00 for the new throttle shaft, depending on the type of throttle lever, plus $9.00 for Priority Mail return shipping.


Thin-Wall Bronze Sleeve Bushing for Throttle Shaft in the non-adjustable main jet Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64, and Chinese-made carburetors that have no counterbore for the short, flat bronze bushing. This bushing can also be used in the Carter or Kohler #26, #28 or #30 carburetors with a worn/enlarged counterbore for the short bronze bushing. Not available from Kohler. Precision-made in the USA of compressed sintered bronze. Dimensions: 1/4" I.D. x .313" O.D. x 3/4" length. IMPORTANT NOTE: The upper throttle shaft hole must be precision-bored exactly to .3125" (5/16") in perfect center-alignment with the lower hole for installation of this sleeve bushing. The carburetor body will need to be clamped in a machine vise fastened on the table of a milling machine, aligned, and precision-drilled so the throttle shaft will rotate without binding after installation of the bushing. A drill press will not be accurate at all for this procedure. If a drill press is used, the carburetor body could be ruined and rendered useless. Apply clean lubricating oil on throttle shaft before installing for smooth throttle operation and less wear to shaft and bushing. Not to be used in the Kohler-made carburetors for Kohler engine models K482, K532 or K582. An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise the use of this part or this service.

  • Aftermarket; not available from Kohler. Precision-made in the USA of compressed sintered bronze. Very hard material. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • A-1 Miller's Repair Service: Bore upper throttle shaft hole, install new bronze sleeve bushing. $45.00 labor and bushing + price of new throttle shaft with new screws/lock washers (if needed), plus return shipping & handling. An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this repair service .


Throttle and Choke Plate Retaining Screws | IMPORTANT: To avoid breaking off the soft OEM brass throttle or choke plate retaining screws, use a Dremel or equivalent small rotary grinder chucked with either a chainsaw sharpening stone or an 1/8" high speed steel end mill to grind away the flared end of the screws, then the screws can be removed without breaking. If the screws break off, they can be successfully drilled out. And do not reuse the OEM soft brass throttle or choke plate retaining screws! They can break off while being tightened or possibly loosen and dislodge later, which can damage the valves or piston, and the engine will not idle down. TIP: When installing a screw to keep it from falling out of the screwdriver, for ordinary steel screws, temporarily magnetize the screwdriver by rubbing a magnet along the length of the shank, or for stainless steel screws, apply a dab of grease in the head of the screw.[Return To Previous Paragraph or Section]

3-48 UNC screws and split lock washers (liquid threadlocker not required) to replace throttle or choke plate retaining screws in Carter and Kohler #26, #28 and #30 carburetors originally installed on Kohler K-series engines. Also fits various other small engine carburetors. No need to use liquid threadlocker. Specifications: .095" outside thread diameter; grade 18-8 stainless steel; tensile strength: 120,000 PSI.

  • 3-48 UNC x 1/4" thread length for choke or stock thickness throttle shafts. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # 234209-S. $1.00 per pair, plus shipping & handling.
  • 3-48 UNC x 3/16" thread length for high performance throttle shaft that's been machined thin for increased airflow. $2.00 per pair, plus shipping & handling.

4-40 UNC screws and split lock washers (liquid threadlocker not required) to replace throttle or choke plate retaining screws in Walbro WHL #52, #60 or #64 carburetors originally installed on Kohler Magnum engines, and Kohler-replicated Chinese-made carburetors. Also fits various other small engine carburetors. Can also be used as an oversize replacement when 3-48 threads strip out. (Use 4-40 tap listed below if this happens.) Specifications: .108" outside thread diameter; grade 18-8 stainless steel; tensile strength: 120,000 PSI.

  • 4-40 UNC x 1/4" thread length stainless steel for stock-thickness throttle shaft. Replaces Kohler part # 25 086 27-S. $1.00 per pair, plus shipping & handling.
  • 4-40 UNC x 3/16" thread length stainless steel for high performance throttle shaft that's been machined thin for increased airflow. $2.00 per pair, plus shipping & handling.
  • 4-40 UNC x 3/16" thread length. Replaces Walbro part # 96-263-7. OEM Kohler part # 25 086 27-S. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

5-44 UNF screws and split lock washers (liquid threadlocker not required). Use as an oversize replacement when 4-40 threads strip out. (Use 5-44 tap listed below if this happens.) Specifications: .118" outside thread diameter; tensile strength: 74,000 PSI. .50¢ per pair, plus shipping & handling.

Quality-Made High Speed Steel Taper Hand Taps. Taper taps allow for the tip to be inserted deeper in the hole for self-aligning, easier cutting of threads and less chance of breaking off tap in the hole.

  • 3-48 UNC size. Use to repair damaged OEM threads in Carter or Kohler throttle and choke shafts. $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 4-40 UNC size. Use for newer OEM Walbro or for cutting oversize threads in Carter or Kohler throttle and choke shafts when 3-48 threads strip out. $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 5-44 UNF size. Use for cutting oversize threads in throttle and choke shafts when 4-40 threads strip out. $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Universal Foot/Gas Pedal Kit. Easy to install on foot rest/support/running board and adjust the cable setting to the carburetor. Most commonly used on competition garden pulling tractors, recreational vehicles, self-propelled pulling sleds, etc. Durable aluminum/steel construction. Kit includes: 43" metal conduit housing x 48" sliding stranded wire inner cable (commonly used) and two housing clamps. $46.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

High Quality Heavy Duty Replacement Throttle Control Cable Assemblies for Universal Foot/Gas Throttle Pedal Assembly.

  • 48" inner stranded wire cable x 43" metal conduit housing. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 53" inner stranded wire cable x 48" metal conduit housing. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 60" inner stranded wire cable x 55" metal conduit housing. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 100" inner stranded wire cable x 90" metal conduit housing. $7.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
Throttle Shaft w/Integrated Lever. Fits all Kohler K-series engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161 and K181 with a Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20 or #22 carburetor, and Magnum engine model M8 with a Walbro WHL #36 or #44 carburetor. Includes screws and lock washers. NOTE: Apply clean lubricating oil on shaft before installing for smooth throttle operation and less wear to shaft, bushing and/or carburetor body. Click or tap here to learn how to remove Carter or Kohler throttle or choke plate retaining screws without breaking them off. OEM Kohler part # 41 144 18-S. $18.05 each, plus shipping & handling. Anodized Steel Choke Shaft w/Integrated Lever. Fits all Kohler K-series engine models K141, K160/K161 and K181 with a Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20 or #22 carburetor, and Magnum engine model M8 with a Walbro WHL #36 or #44 carburetor. Includes screws and lock washers. NOTE: Apply clean lubricating oil on shaft before installing for smooth operation and less wear to shaft and/or carburetor body. Click or tap here to learn how to remove Carter or Kohler throttle or choke plate retaining screws without breaking them off. High Quality Aftermarket. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # 41 090 20-S. $20.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High quality aftermarket throttle shafts w/integrated lever. Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K330/K331, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361. These are the old-style throttle shafts with the 11/16" screw hole spacing for the Carter and Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors that is no longer available from Kohler. Each come with screws and split lock washers (liquid threadlocker not required). These throttle shafts can also be used in the Walbro #52, #60 or #64 carburetors, with the 1.07" or 1.2" throttle plates listed below. Each have a small hole for the throttle stabilizer spring or a throttle return spring for competition pulling. NOTE: Being the throttle lever is longer on the aftermarket throttle shaft, it may need to be cut off slightly to clear the backside of the air cleaner base. And apply clean lubricating oil on shaft before installing for smooth throttle operation and less wear to shaft, bushing and/or carburetor body. Click or tap here to learn how to remove Carter or Kohler throttle or choke plate retaining screws without breaking them off. When ordering, please specify which throttle shaft you need; the one with a 3/16" hole in the lever or with an integrated 1/4" ball on the lever.

High quality aftermarket 1/4" diameter anodized steel throttle shaft with 11/16" throttle plate screw hole spacing, 3/16" hole in lever for throttle linkage and small hole in lever for throttle stabilizer spring. Fits OEM Carter and Kohler #26, #28 and #30, and Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors. When replacing a worn throttle shaft in a Walbro #52 (1.07") carburetor with this throttle shaft, must use the 1.07" aftermarket throttle plate listed below. Or when replacing a worn throttle shaft in a Walbro #60 or #64 (1.2") carburetor with this throttle shaft, oblong the holes in the OEM Walbro throttle plate to match the screw holes in this shaft. Includes screws and lock washers. Includes screws and lock washers. Replaces discontinued OEM Kohler part # 47 144 35-S. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

High quality aftermarket 1/4" diameter anodized steel throttle shaft with 11/16" throttle plate screw hole spacing, integrated 1/4" ball on lever for throttle linkage and small hole in lever for throttle stabilizer spring. Fits OEM Carter and Kohler #26, #28 and #30, and Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors. Replaces OEM Kohler #26, #28 and #30 "Quiet Line" carburetor throttle shafts. When replacing a worn throttle shaft in a Walbro #52 (1.07") carburetor with this throttle shaft, must use the 1.07" aftermarket throttle plate listed below. Or when replacing a worn throttle shaft in a Walbro #60 or #64 (1.2") carburetor with this throttle shaft, oblong the holes in the OEM Walbro throttle plate to match the screw holes in this shaft. Includes screws and lock washers. $20.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

OEM Kohler 1/4" diameter anodized steel throttle shaft with 3/4" screw hole spacing, 3/16" hole in lever for throttle linkage and small hole in lever for throttle stabilizer spring. Made specifically for Walbro WHG #60 or #64 carburetors with a 1.2" throttle bore. Includes screws and split lock washers (liquid threadlocker not required). When replacing a worn throttle shaft in a Walbro #60 or #64 carburetor with an aftermarket throttle shaft (above), use the 1.2" aftermarket throttle plate listed below. OEM Kohler part # 47 144 36-S. $26.05 each, plus shipping & handling.


Throttle Shaft Conversion Kits to Convert Carter Model N #26, #28 or #30 Carburetor with a Broken or Cracked Old-Style Clamp-On Cast Aluminum Throttle Lever Adapter and Short Throttle Shaft to the New-Style One-Piece Kohler-Type Throttle Shaft with Integrated Lever and Idle Speed Screw/Compression Spring in the Carburetor Body.

  • Conversion Kit #1. Includes: High quality aftermarket anodized steel throttle shaft with 3/16" hole in lever (no integrated ball), throttle plate retaining screws, idle speed screw and compression spring. Reuse OEM Carter throttle plate. $18.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Conversion Kit #2. Includes: High quality aftermarket anodized steel throttle shaft with integrated 1/4" ball on lever, throttle plate retaining screws, idle speed screw and compression spring. Reuse OEM Carter throttle plate. $23.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

To Perform the Conversion:

  1. Remove the original throttle shaft. Click or tap here to learn how to remove Carter or Kohler throttle or choke plate retaining screws without breaking them off.
  2. Cut or grind off the throttle stop pin flush with the carburetor body. Do attempt to break off the pin as this could also break off part of the cast aluminum carburetor body, which must be used as a throttle stop in the wide open position.
  3. Drill a 9/64" hole through the carburetor body between the throttle shaft and high speed adjuster in alignment with the throttle lever for installation of the idle speed adjustment screw.
  4. Cut 8-32 UNC threads through the drilled hole.
  5. Install the supplied 8-32 UNC x 1" length screw/compression spring in the threaded hole.
  6. If the throttle shaft hole is worn and the new throttle shaft is "wobbly" or loose, a new flat bronze bushing will need to be installed in the counterbore.
  7. Install the new-style throttle shaft and reinstall the original throttle plate.
1.07" High Quality Aftermarket Anodized Steel Throttle Plate. Fits Carter and Kohler #26 and Chinese-made #26 aftermarket carburetors with 1.07" throttle bore originally used on Kohler engine models K241, K301, K330/K331, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482 and K532. To be used with OEM Carter, Kohler or aftermarket throttle shafts listed above È with 11/16" screw hole spacing. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 236668-S.
  • $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

1.17" High Quality Aftermarket Anodized Steel Throttle Plate. Fits [early] Carter #28 and Chinese-made #30 aftermarket carburetors with 1.17" throttle bore, but will also work in the [later] Carter and Kohler #30 carburetors with 1.2" throttle bore used on Kohler K-series engine models K321, K341 and K582. Designed to be used with OEM Carter, Kohler or aftermarket throttle shafts listed above È with 11/16" screw hole spacing. No Carter or Kohler part number available.

  • $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

1.2" OEM Brass Throttle Plates. Designed to fit Walbro HDA, WHG, LMH #60 and #64 carburetors with 1.2" throttle bore. The Walbro WHG #60 and #64 carburetors are originally used on the Kohler Magnum engine models M14 and M16. When used in a Carter or Kohler #30 carburetor, elongate the holes to match the screw holes in the OEM throttle shaft, or use 47 144 36-S throttle shaft listed above È with 3/4" screw hole spacing.

  • OEM Walbro part # 34-18-1. $7.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 47 146 10-S. (Same as above È, made by Walbro.) $10.75 each, plus shipping & handling.
Choke Shafts w/Integrated Short Lever. Fits Kohler K-series engine models K241, K301, K321, K341 with a Carter/Kohler #26, #28 or #30 carburetor with a round air cleaner/filter assembly, and certain Magnum engine models M10, M12, M14 and M16 with a Walbro WHL #52, #60 or #64 carburetor. Includes screws and lock washers. NOTE - The Walbro choke plate retaining screw holes will need to be elongated or made oblong to line up with the screw holes in the aftermarket choke shaft. And apply clean lubricating oil on shaft before installing for smooth operation and less wear to shaft and/or carburetor body. Click or tap here to learn how to remove Carter or Kohler throttle or choke plate retaining screws without breaking them off.
  • High Quality Aftermarket Anodized Steel Choke Shaft w/Integrated Lever and Screws. Kohler part # 47 090 34-S. $20.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 47 090 34-S. $36.70 each, plus shipping & handling.
Choke Shafts w/Integrated Long Lever. Fits all Kohler AQS "Quiet Line" engine models K241, K301, K321, K341, K361 with a Kohler #26 or #30 carburetor with an oblong air cleaner/filter assembly, and certain Magnum engine models M10, M12, M14 and M16 with a Walbro WHL #52, #60 or #64 carburetor. Includes screws and lock washers. NOTE - The Walbro choke plate retaining screw holes will need to be elongated or made oblong to line up with the screw holes in the aftermarket choke shaft. And apply clean lubricating oil on shaft before installing for smooth operation and less wear to shaft and/or carburetor body. Click or tap here to learn how to remove Carter or Kohler throttle or choke plate retaining screws without breaking them off.
  • High Quality Aftermarket Anodized Steel Choke Shaft w/Integrated Long Lever and Screws. Replaces Kohler part # 47 090 38-S. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 47 090 38-S. $36.70 each, plus shipping & handling.
NOTE: The detent ball and spring are only required for hand-operation of the choke plate to keep it in the open position on stand-alone engines, such as garden tillers, portable generators/welders, portable air compressors, portable water pumps, etc. If choke is operated by a sliding remote wire cable control, such as on a garden tractor, then the ball and spring isn't required and will serve no purpose whatsoever.

1/8" Diameter Choke Shaft Friction (Detent) Ball. Fits Carter or Kohler #13, #16, #18, #20, #22, #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetors.

  • OEM Walbro part # 89-13-8. .35¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Kohler part # 25 194 02-S. (Same as above È, made by Walbro.) $1.82 each, plus shipping & handling.

5/32" Diameter Choke Shaft Friction (Detent) Ball. Fits Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors.

  • OEM Walbro part # 89-29-8. .35¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Kohler part # 25 194 01-S. (Same as above È, made by Walbro.) $8.02 each, plus shipping & handling.


1/8" Diameter x 5/16" Length Choke Shaft Friction (Detent) Compression Spring. Fits Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetors.

  • OEM Walbro part # 98-162-7. .60¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Kohler part # 25 089 06-S. (Same as above È, made by Walbro.) $1.82 each, plus shipping & handling.

1/8" Diameter x 1/2" Length Choke Shaft Friction (Detent) Compression Spring. Fits Carter and Kohler #26, #28 and #30 carburetors.

  • Used and in excellent condition. Discontinued from Kohler many years ago. No Kohler part number. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)

5/32" Diameter x 1/2" Length Choke Shaft Friction (Detent) Compression Spring. Fits Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors.

  • OEM Walbro part # 98-198-7. .60¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Kohler part # 25 089 03-S. (Same as above È, made by Walbro.) $8.02 each, plus shipping & handling.
Small Engine Remote Fuel Primer System Kits. Safe to use and works flawlessly! Can be used on most ordinary lawn and garden tractors, garden pulling tractors, recreational vehicles, or virtually any small engine lawn and garden or snow removal equipment with a choke plate in the carburetor. Primer bulb can be installed on pedestal, dashboard, instrument panel, engine control panel, flywheel shroud, etc. Requires 1/4" mounting hole for primer bulb assembly. Works with Carter/Kohler (OEM and aftermarket), Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh, Mikuni, Zenith, or virtually any carburetor with a float. Works with pump gas, race gas, E-85 or methanol fuels. The choice of professional garden tractor pullers everywhere! With the fuel bowl atmospheric vent opening plugged (air passageway from inside the float bowl to outside of carburetor), then with one or two pushes of the primer bulb with your finger, air pressure created within the float bowl forces fuel up through the main jet and out the nozzle, creating a slight flooding condition inside the carburetor throttle bore, allowing a cold engine to start quick. With this setup installed, the choke plate and shaft is not needed and can be removed. No more binding of a cable-operated choke and/or bent choke plate, or messy and unsafe "hand choking" of the carburetor. Being the atmospheric vent opening will be plugged, the fuel baffle splash shield in the Carter/Kohler carburetor is not needed with this setup and will serve no purpose whatsoever. Kit includes: New primer bulb assembly with integrated 1/8" barbed hose fitting and serrated mounting nut, 1/8" I.D. x 3/16" O.D. x 2' length clear vinyl hose, loop-type clamp and 1/8" diameter x 1" length brass tube. Click or tap here for installation instructions. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise the universal kit for use on various small engine equipment, lawn and garden tractors or competition pulling tractors. NOTE: If an engine is hard to start, even with the choke plate fully closed and tuned correctly, then it may need the valve clearances reset and/or professional valve job performed. The reason some older engines is hard to start is because the valve faces, especially the intake valve, wears slightly away against the valve seat, and this causes the clearance between the valve stem and lifter to be lessened, which will prevent the valve(s) from fully closing to trap adequate compression in the combustion chamber [so the engine can start easier]. This remote fuel primer system will not help an engine start easier if it needs a valve job. [Return to Previous Section]
  • Fuel Primer Bulb Assembly Only. Includes serrated mounting nut. $7.00 each, plus shipping.
  • High Quality Complete Universal Fuel Primer Kit. $11.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • XT Fuel Primer Kit. OEM Kohler part # 14 755 36-S. $15.50 each, plus shipping.
Vented Metal Gas Caps. Replace deteriorated, damaged or missing gas cap for safety. Fits all IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractors with a metal fuel tank, except models with a plastic fuel tank. Also fits larger Briggs & Stratton, Clinton, Tecumseh, Lauson, Wisconsin and various other makes and models of small engines fuel tanks with a 1-3/4" filler neck.
  • 1-3/4" high quality aftermarket ordinary metal gas cap w/vent hole and paper-like sealing gasket material. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 1-3/4" ordinary metal gas cap w/vent hole and paper-like gasket sealing material. OEM Kohler part # 236655-S. $13.55 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 1-3/4" ordinary metal gas cap w/vent hole and paper-like gasket sealing material. OEM Cub Cadet part # KH-236655. $17.89 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 1-3/4" metal safety gas cap w/vent hole and paper-like gasket sealing material. OEM Cub Cadet part # KH-236655. $17.89 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 1-3/4" metal safety gas cap w/vent hole and neoprene rubber sealing material. Also has fuel baffle/splash shield and foam rubber (reticulated polyurethane foam) to absorb and prevent fuel from spewing out of vent hole due to normal engine vibration. OEM Briggs & Stratton part #'s 69221, 297866, 297866S, 392305, 393156, 395005. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Alcohol-resistant neoprene rubber O-ring for 1-3/4" gas caps. Provides a better seal which helps prevent dangerous leaks, which could cause a fire. Also helps seal against rim of a slightly damaged filler neck of gas tank to lessen chance of loss of gas when tank is full. Pry out and install under paper-like gasket material in gas cap for better sealing. Small cross-sectional diameter, snug-fitting in gas cap. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
(Added 8/17/20) Vented Gas Cap/Fuel Level Gauge w/Ribbing. Replace deteriorated, damaged or missing gas cap for safety. Fits IH-built Cub Cadet AQS (Quiet Line) garden tractor models 800, 1000, 1200, 1250, 1450 and 1650 with serial number 560209 and lower. 6" overall length. Fits plastic fuel tank with 5" depth and inlet smaller than 2". OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-61635-C3. $39.70 each, plus shipping & handling.


Vented Gas Caps/Fuel Level Gauge w/Projected Grips. Replace deteriorated, damaged or missing gas cap for safety. Fits IH-built Cub Cadet AQS (Quiet Line) garden tractor models 800, 1000, 1200, 1250, 1450 and 1650 with serial number 560210 and higher. Fits plastic gas tank with a 2" inlet and 5" depth.

  • High quality aftermarket. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-109037-C2. $24.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-109037-C2. $40.50 each, plus shipping & handling.


Vented Gas Caps/Fuel Level Gauge w/Projected Grips. Replace deteriorated, damaged or missing gas cap for safety. Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 784, 982, 984, 986, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1282, 1604, 1606, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1872, 1912, 1914 and 2072. Fits plastic gas tank with a 2" inlet. 10-5/8" overall length.

  • High quality aftermarket. Replaces Cub Cadet part # 951-0226A. $37.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Cub Cadet part # 951-0226A. $44.40 each, plus shipping & handling.
Small Size Plastic In-Line Fuel Filters w/fine mesh metal screen. Replace clogged, deteriorated or damaged filter to prevent fuel flow problems. Each filter installs either direction. Dimensions of each filter: 1/4" barbed fittings x 1-3/8" maximum diameter x 1-3/4" overall length.
  • Translucent; 75 micron. Filters out smaller objects. Use with gravity feed fuel system. Our part # 21-10251. $3.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Red; 150 micron. Use with vacuum, mechanical or electric fuel pump. Install before fuel pump to lessen debris wear to poppet or reed valves. Our part # 21-6000. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Large Size Plastic In-Line Fuel Filter w/pleated paper filtering material. Replace clogged and/or deteriorated filter to prevent fuel flow problems. For engines with gravity feed, vacuum, mechanical or electric fuel pump. Install before fuel pump to lessen debris wear to poppet or reed valves. Dimensions: 1/4" and 5/16" barbed fittings x 1-1/2" maximum diameter x 4-3/8" overall length.
  • High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 25 755 22-S. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 25 755 22-S. $39.59 each, plus shipping & handling.
Fuel Hose Clamps for 1/4" I.D. x 1/2" O.D. black neoprene rubber reinforced fuel hose. Necessary when using a fuel pump in a pressurized fuel system for safety, and to prevent a vacuum leak on the suction end.
  • Spring-Loaded Clamp. High quality aftermarket. .50¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Spring-Loaded Clamp. OEM Kohler part # 25 237 37-S. $1.30 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Stainless Steel Worm Gear Clamp. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
1/4" I.D. x 1/2" O.D. Braided Reinforced Black Alcohol-Resistant Neoprene Rubber Fuel Hose. Suitable for 100% gas, E85 or methanol fuels. Maximum burst pressure: 15 PSI.
  • High quality aftermarket. .15¢ per inch, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 25 111 81-S. (1/4" I.D. x 39" length.) $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

5/16" I.D. x 5/8" O.D. Braided Reinforced Black Alcohol-Resistant Neoprene Rubber Fuel Hose. Suitable for 100% gas, E85 or methanol fuels. Maximum burst pressure: 15 PSI. .18¢ per inch, plus shipping & handling.

Straight Hose Fittings. Use with 1/4" I.D. fuel hose and/or with a vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel pump. Dimensions: 1/8" NPT male threads x 1/4" barbed hose fitting. Use plumber's thread sealing tape to guarantee a leak-proof seal. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part #'s 277483-S, X-495-1, and Tecumseh part # 28534.
  • Used and in excellent condition. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
  • New aftermarket fitting. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
45º Angled Hose Fitting. Use with 1/4" I.D. fuel hose and/or with a vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel pump. Use plumber's thread sealing tape to guarantee a leak-proof seal. Dimensions: 1/8" NPT male threads x 1/4" barbed hose fitting.
  • $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
90º Hose Fittings. Use with 1/4" I.D. fuel hose and/or with a vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel pump. Use plumber's thread sealing tape to guarantee a leak-proof seal. Dimensions: 1/8" NPT male threads x 1/4" barbed hose fitting.
  • New high quality aftermarket steel fitting. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Used and in excellent condition steel fitting. OEM Kohler part # 25 155 02-S. $4.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
  • New. OEM Kohler part # 25 155 02-S. $9.80 each, plus shipping & handling.
Hard Rubber Compression Sleeve for Metal Fuel Line. Replace deteriorated, cracked, dry-rotted compression sleeve to prevent dangerous and hazardous fuel leak. 7/32" I.D. x .255" O.D. Other parts shown in drawing to the right have been discontinued from Kohler.
  • OEM Kohler part # 220547-S. $5.65 each, plus shipping & handling.
Fuel Hose Conversion/Upgrade Kit. Do away with the old-fashioned sediment bowl/fuel filter and metal fuel line. This conversion/upgrade kit includes 1/4" I.D. x 12" length reinforced black fuel hose, small in-line fuel filter, one new straight 1/4" barbed fitting x 1/8" NPT male threads fitting (threads into gas tank), one new 90º 1/8" NPT male threads x 1/4" barbed fitting (threads into carburetor) and four spring-type fuel hose clamps. The fuel hose is routed in a U-shape under carburetor. Filter is to be installed just under fuel tank. This kit is suitable for Kohler engines with gravity feed and the lowest part of gas tank positioned higher than the carburetor. Use plumber's thread sealing tape on fittings to guarantee a leak-proof seal. An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this kit.
  • $12.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.

Durable Plastic In-Line Fuel Shut-Off Valve. alcohol-resistant neoprene seal. Fits 1/4" I.D. fuel hose. No filter. Lever rotates 90º OFF/ON position. Use for a leaky carburetor or for long term storage, and this part is required by certain pulling associations for safety. Our part # 24-1036. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Heavy Duty, All-Metal In-Line Fuel Shut-Off Valve. Alcohol-resistant. Fits 1/4" I.D. fuel hose. No filter. Lever rotates 90º OFF/ON position. Use for a leaky carburetor or for long term storage, and this part is required by certain pulling associations for safety. Our part # 24-1166. $16.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Heavy Duty, All-Metal In-Line Fuel Shut-Off Valve. Alcohol-resistant. Fits 5/16" I.D. fuel hose. No filter. Lever rotates 90º OFF/ON position. Use for a leaky carburetor or for long term storage, and this part is required by certain pulling associations for safety. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

90º Thread-In Fuel Tank-Mounted Shut-Off Valve w/Fine Mesh Brass Filter Screen. Used with metal gas tanks on various Kohler engine models CH15, CH22, CH23, CH680, ECH730, K91, K141, K161, K181, K241, K301, K341, M8, M14 and M20. Threads into bottom of fuel tank. Has 1/8" NPT mounting threads and fits 1/4" I.D. fuel hose. Use for a leaky carburetor or long term storage, and this part is required by certain pulling associations for safety. Replaces: AMF 42879; Bolens 1703896, 1718029; Briggs & Stratton 396244, 399517, 698182; Gravely 18563; John Deere AM31850, PT8655; Kohler 220764-S; Lawn Boy 677052; Noma 42879; Scag 48056; Snapper 2-4507, 3-4212, 24507, 34212, 7024507, 7034212; Tecumseh 27689, 27803, 28571, 29683, 430137, 430209; Toro 304-71.
  • High quality aftermarket. Has alcohol-resistant neoprene rubber O-ring seal. Our part # 24-1037. $6.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 220764-S. $27.77 each, plus shipping & handling.

Alcohol-resistant neoprene rubber O-ring seal for shut-off valve listed above È. Replace deteriorated, cracked and dry-rotted O-ring or leather packing which can cause leaking fuel. Dimensions: 3/16" I.D. x 5/16" O.D.

  • .25¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
Alcohol-Resistant Neoprene Rubber Gas Tank Fuel Fitting Bushing (Grommet). Fits Cub Cadet AQS (Quiet Line) models and Kohler Magnum engines. Replace deteriorated, cracked, dry-rotted, hardened bushing/grommet, which can cause dangerous and hazardous leaking fuel. Along with either fuel fitting listed below, this part can be used to repair (replace) the integrated fuel fitting on a plastic fuel tank. Use oil or grease for easy installation into 9/16" hole in bottom of plastic fuel tank. Fuel fittings and fuel shut-off valves listed below Ê that plugs into this part. In addition to the fitting listed below Ê, for competition pulling only, this part can also be used as a fuel return system in fuel tank when burning methanol or diesel fuels. Replaces: AMF 42690; Ariens 07509300, 07511400; Bolens 1738433; Briggs Power Products 78299GS, 80269GS; Exmark 1-513645; Ferris 22151; Kohler 25 313 01-S; Lawn-Boy 104047, 708331, 46-6560; MTD 735-0149, 1738433, 935-0149, 1903198, 1902479, GW-1738433, GW-B1738433, 581615; Murray 42690; Noma 44847; Scag 48309; Simplicity 1654930; Snapper 12337, 74158, 7012337, 7074158; Tecumseh 33679; Toro 46-6560, 1-513645, E513645; Wheel Horse/Toro 104047; 104047P.
  • High quality aftermarket. Our part # 7730. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 25 313 01-S. $2.55 each, plus shipping & handling.
90º Metal Plug-In Fuel Tank Fitting w/o Filter Screen. Fits Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" models and Kohler Magnum engines. Use with in-line fuel filter. 1/2" fitting fastens in neoprene rubber bushing/grommet (above È) in bottom of plastic fuel tank. Along with the grommet above, this part can be used to repair (replace) the fuel fitting on a plastic fuel tank. Use oil or grease for easy installation. 1/4" barbed hose fitting. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-109042-C2 (except w/o shut-off valve); Wheel Horse 04048 (except w/o shut-off valve and filter screen).
  • Our part # 751-3054. $3.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
90º Metal Plug-In Fuel Tank Shut-Off Valve w/o Filter Screen. Fits Cub Cadet AQS (Quiet Line) models and Kohler Magnum engines. Use with in-line fuel filter. 1/2" fitting fastens in neoprene rubber bushing (above È) in bottom of plastic fuel tank. Along with the grommet above, this part can be used to repair (replace) the fuel fitting on a plastic fuel tank. Use oil or grease for easy installation. 1/4" barbed hose fitting. Use for a leaky carburetor or long term storage. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-109042-C2 and Kohler part # 25 462 01-S (except w/o filter screen); Wheel Horse 104048 (except w/o filter screen).
  • Our part # 120-253. $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Alcohol resistant neoprene rubber O-ring seal for shut-off valve above È. Replace deteriorated, cracked and dry-rotted O-ring which cause leaking fuel. Dimensions: 3/16" I.D. x 5/16" O.D.

  • .25¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
90º Metal Plug-In Fuel Tank Shut-Off Valve w/Fine Mesh Filter Screen. Fits Briggs & Stratton, Cub Cadet AQS (Quiet Line) models and Kohler Magnum engines. 1/2" fitting fastens in neoprene rubber bushing (above È) in bottom of plastic fuel tank. Along with the grommet above, this part can be used to repair (replace) the fuel fitting on a plastic fuel tank. Use oil or grease for easy installation. 1/4" barbed hose fitting. Use for a leaky carburetor or long term storage. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-109042-C2; Wheel Horse 104048 (except w/filter screen).
  • High quality aftermarket. Our part # 24-1132. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Kohler part # 25 462 01-S. $20.15 each, plus shipping & handling.

Alcohol-resistant neoprene rubber O-ring seal for shut-off valve above È. Replace deteriorated, cracked and dry-rotted O-ring, which can cause dangerous and hazardous leaking fuel. Dimensions: 3/16" I.D. x 5/16" O.D.

  • .25¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality 90º Plastic Plug-In Fuel Tank Shut-Off Valve w/Fine Mesh Filter Screen and Alcohol-Resistant Neoprene Rubber Grommet Kit. Fits Briggs & Stratton, Cub Cadet AQS (Quiet Line) models and Kohler Magnum engine fuel tanks. Neoprene rubber grommet plugs into bottom of plastic fuel tank, and fuel fitting fastens in the grommet. These parts can also be used to repair a damaged threaded fuel outlet hole on the bottom of a plastic fuel tank by drilling out threads with a 9/16" drill bit, then install grommet and fitting. Use automotive grease for easy insertion of each part. 1/4" and 5/16" stepped barbed fuel hose fitting. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-109042-C2; Wheel Horse 104048 (except w/filter screen).
  • High quality aftermarket. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Briggs & Stratton part # 192980GS. $16.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
1/8" NPT x 1/8" NPT x 3/4" length [close] steel pipe connector. Use to fasten fuel shut-off /filter/sediment bowl assembly (listed below Ê) to fuel tank. Use plumber's thread sealing tape to guarantee a leak-proof seal.
  • High quality aftermarket. $1.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 25 136 23-S. $1.30 each, plus shipping & handling.
Fuel Shut-Off/Filter/Sediment Bowl Assembly. Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 147, and replacement for many other makes and models of older lawn and garden engines. Filters out small particles of debris and dirt from fuel and separates water from gas. Threads into bottom of fuel tank. Use for a leaky carburetor or long term storage, and this part is required by certain pulling associations for safety. Use plumber's thread sealing tape to guarantee a leak-proof seal. Dimensions - overall height: 3"; maximum width (not including shut-off valve): 1-3/4"; thread fittings: inlet (top) and outlet (side) are both 1/8" NPT. Use fuel hose conversion/upgrade kit (above È) instead if you wish. Complete assembly discontinued from Kohler. Replaces: Kohler A-210101; Briggs & Stratton 293964, 295913, 295977, 296005, 393169, 690612; Clinton 293-32-500, 293-32-5; Gravely 010313; John Deere PT4337; Tecumseh 24449, 24459, 32164, 32439, 32984, 32984A, 34279, 34279A, 34279B; Wisconsin LP43.
  • High quality aftermarket. Our part # 21-1009. $11.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
Alcohol-resistant neoprene rubber O-ring seal for shut-off valve shaft in fuel shut-off/filter/sediment bowl assembly listed above È. Replace deteriorated, cracked and dry-rotted O-ring or leather packing, which can cause dangerous and hazardous leaking fuel. Dimensions: 1/8" I.D. x 1/4" O.D.
  • High quality aftermarket. .25¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
Replacement glass bowl for fuel shut-off/filter/sediment bowl assembly listed above È. Dimensions: 1-1/2" maximum width x 1-1/8" height. Replaces: Briggs & Stratton # 298683; John Deere # PT4271.
  • High quality aftermarket. $3.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 210467-S. $17.15 each, plus shipping & handling.
Gasket (Alcohol-Resistant Neoprene Rubber Seal) for fuel shut-off/filter/sediment bowl assembly listed above È. Dimensions: 1-1/4" I.D. x 1-1/2" O.D. x .060" thickness.
  • High quality aftermarket. Our part # 14-1097. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 210468-S. $3.40 each, plus shipping & handling.
Fine Mesh Brass Filter Screen for Fuel Sediment Bowl Assembly listed above È. 1-1/4" O.D.
  • OEM Kohler part # 210479-S. $4.60 each, plus shipping & handling.

Wingnuts, Pleated Air Filters and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters -
If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle, tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're planning to relocate our business to other property with a bigger and better shop so we can hire more help and provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
TIP: When installing a screw to keep it from falling out of the screwdriver, for ordinary steel screws, temporarily magnetize the screwdriver by rubbing a magnet along the length of the shank, or for stainless steel screws, apply a dab of grease in the head of the screw.

Air Cleaner/Filter Base Mounting Screws w/split lock washers. Use to fasten air cleaner base to Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 and Walbro WHL #36 and #44 carburetors. Dimensions: 8-32 UNC x 3/8" thread length. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # 25 086 99-S.

  • Phillips Head. High quality aftermarket. Made of hardened zinc-plated steel. $1.50 for three, plus shipping & handling.
  • Hex Socket (Allen) Head Cap Screw. Makes for easier installation of screws. $3.00 for three, plus shipping & handling.


Air Cleaner/Filter Base Mounting Screws w/split lock washers. Use to fasten air cleaner base to Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors. Dimensions: 10-32 UNF x 3/8" thread length.

  • Phillips Head. High quality aftermarket. Made of hardened zinc-plated steel. $1.50 for three, plus shipping & handling.
  • Hex Socket (Allen) Head Cap Screw. Makes for easier installation of screws. $3.00 for three, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # X-167-2-S. $2.10 each, plus shipping & handling.


Air Cleaner/Filter Base Mounting Screw w/split lock washer. 10-32 UNF x 3/4" thread length Phillips head screw with split lock washer. Use when air cleaner/filter base mounting holes located at the 12:00, 8:00 and 4:00 position strip out in Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) #26 and #30 carburetors. Stripped-out screw holes can be drilled deeper with a 11/64" drill bit, then deeper threads can be cut with a 10-32 UNF hand tap (listed below) for these longer screws. No need to install Heli-Coil inserts or replace carburetor. Screw made of hardened zinc-plated steel. An innovative concept by Brian Miller. .25¢ each, plus shipping & handling.


11/64" High Speed Steel Drill Bit for drilling deeper [stripped-out] air cleaner base mounting screw holes in Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) #26 and #30 carburetors so longer screws (above) can be used. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


11/64" High Speed Steel Drill Bit for drilling deeper [stripped-out] air cleaner base mounting screw holes in Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) #26 and #30 carburetors so longer screws (above) can be used. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


Quality-Made High Speed Steel Plug Hand Taps -

8-32 UNC size. For cutting new threads for the idle speed screw/spring in the old-style Carter #26, #28 or #30 carburetor body with the cast aluminum clamp-on throttle lever adapter to the new-style one-piece throttle shaft with the integrated lever. Can also be used for rethreading screw holes in the choke flange of Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 or Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetors for mounting of air cleaner/filter base. $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

10-32 UNF size. For rethreading or cutting deeper threads in the choke flange of Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors for mounting of air cleaner/filter base. $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Each wingnut listed below recommended for side-mounted air cleaner covers or battery hold-down studs. Do not use on top-mounted air cleaner covers due to water from washing off engine or rain water that may seep into intake. 1/4-20 UNC threads. Replaces Kohler part #'s X-276-7 and 25 100 15-S.
  • Plain Heavy Gauge Stamped Steel Wingnut. .25¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Bright Cadmium-Plated Aluminum Wingnut with Self-Locking Nylon Insert. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


Heavy Gauge Stamped Steel Wingnuts with Adhered Rubber Seal. Recommended for top-mounted air cleaner covers to prevent water from washing off engine or rain water seeping into intake. Also, rubber seal prevents wingnut from loosening. 1/4-20 UNC threads.
  • High quality aftermarket. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part #'s X-276-7 and 25 100 15-S. $3.16 each, plus shipping & handling.
Pleated Air Filter Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters. Fits certain Kohler K-series engine models K91, K141, K161 and K181. Non-restricting flame retardant filtering material. Performance engineered for increased breathing. Air filter: Kohler 230840-S; Cub Cadet 385163R2; Clinton 002-0233-00; Gravely 20299; John Deere AM31034; Massey 1035-991-M1; Tecumseh 30804. Foam Wrap/Prefilter: Kohler 234870-S; John Deere AM31034; Massey Ferguson 1035-991. Air filter element dimensions (±): 4-3/8" O.D. x 3" I.D. x 1-1/2" overall height.
  • High quality aftermarket air filter. $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • High quality aftermarket foam wrap/prefilter. $4.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler air filter. $22.40 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • OEM Kohler foam wrap/prefilter. $7.55 each, plus shipping & handling..

NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/prefilter, use electrical contact cleaner, brake parts cleaner, cleaning solvent or paint thinner (these leave no oily residue) and 150± PSI compressed air, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because some of the oil could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is running, partially clogging it.

Pleated Air Filters and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters. Fits certain Kohler K-series engine model K181. Non-restricting flame retardant filtering material. Performance engineered for increased breathing. Air filter: Kohler 231847-S; Cub Cadet 548436R1; Gravely 15373; John Deere AM30800; Tecumseh 31925; Onan 140-1188, 140-188; Rol Air 431. Foam Wrap/Prefilter: Kohler 234869-S (K-series), 41 083 04-S (Magnum). Air filter element dimensions (±): 4-3/8" O.D. x 3" I.D. x 2-5/16" overall height.
  • High quality aftermarket air filter. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • High quality aftermarket foam wrap/prefilter. $4.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler air filter. $12.05 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • OEM Kohler foam wrap/prefilter. $7.55 each, plus shipping & handling.

NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/prefilter, use electrical contact cleaner, brake parts cleaner, cleaning solvent or paint thinner (these leave no oily residue) and 150± psi compressed air, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because some of the oil could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is running, partially clogging it.

Pleated Air Filter Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters. Fits various Kohler engine models K141, K161, K181/M8, K241/M10, K301/M12 and K321/M14 with the short round metal air cleaner/filter assembly. Non-restricting flame retardant filtering material. Performance engineered for increased breathing. Air filter: Kohler 235116-S; Cub Cadet 385168R2. Foam Wrap/Prefilter: Kohler 237421-S. Air filter element dimensions (±): 6" O.D. x 4-11/16" I.D. x 1-7/8" overall height.
  • High quality aftermarket air filter. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • High quality aftermarket foam wrap/prefilter. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler air filter. $10.60 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • OEM Kohler foam wrap/prefilter. $4.20 each, plus shipping & handling.

NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/prefilter, use electrical contact cleaner, brake parts cleaner, cleaning solvent or paint thinner (these leave no oily residue) and 150± psi compressed air, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because some of the oil could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is running, partially clogging it.

Pleated Air Filter Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters. Fits certain Kohler and Magnum engine models K241, K301, K321, K341, CH11-15, KT17, KT19, and M18-20 engines with the AQS (Quiet Line) oblong-shaped metal air cleaner/filter assembly. Fits Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) series engines in Cub Cadet models 680, 1000, 1050, 1200, 1204, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450 and 1650. Non-restricting flame retardant filtering material. Performance engineered for increased breathing. Air filter: Kohler 47 083 01-S; Cub Cadet 117210-C1, 759-3547, 959-3547; Gravely 032494, John Deere M83646, Lesco 012596. Foam Wrap/Prefilter: Kohler 52 083 01-S. Air filter element dimensions (±): 7" O.D. x 5-1/2" I.D. x 1-3/4" overall height.
  • High quality aftermarket air filter. $11.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • High quality aftermarket foam wrap/prefilter. $3.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler air filter. $17.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • OEM Kohler foam wrap/prefilter. $4.55 each, plus shipping & handling.

NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/prefilter, use electrical contact cleaner, brake parts cleaner, cleaning solvent or paint thinner (these leave no oily residue) and 150± psi compressed air, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because some of the oil could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is running, partially clogging it.

Pleated Air Filter Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters. Fits Kohler engine models K341, CH18-25, CV18-22, KT17 Series II, KT19 Series II and M18-20; for 17 thru 22hp engines with the AQS (Quiet Line) oblong-shaped metal air cleaner/filter assembly. Fits Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) series engines. Non-restricting flame retardant filtering material. Performance engineered for increased breathing. Air filter: Kohler 47 083 03-S; John Deere M47494 (fits JD models 200, 210, 212, 214, 216, 300, 312, 314, 316, 400); Woods 71803. Foam Wrap/Prefilter: Kohler 41 083 04-S. Air filter element dimensions (±): 7" O.D. x 5-1/2" I.D. x 2-7/16" overall height.
  • High quality aftermarket air filter. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • High quality aftermarket foam wrap/prefilter. $4.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler air filter. $9.65 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • OEM Kohler foam wrap/prefilter. $6.65 each, plus shipping & handling.

NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/prefilter, use electrical contact cleaner, brake parts cleaner, cleaning solvent or paint thinner (these leave no oily residue) and 150± psi compressed air, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because some of the oil could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is running, partially clogging it.

Pleated Air Filter Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters. Fits Kohler engine models K341, CH18-25, CV18-22, KT17 Series II, KT19 Series II and M18-20; for 17 thru 22hp engines with the AQS (Quiet Line) oblong-shaped metal air cleaner/filter assembly. Fits Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) series engines. Non-restricting flame retardant filtering material. Performance engineered for increased breathing. Air filter: Kohler 47 083 03-S; John Deere M47494 (fits JD models 200, 210, 212, 214, 216, 300, 312, 314, 316, 400); Woods 71803. Foam Wrap/Prefilter: Kohler 41 083 04-S. Air filter element dimensions (±): 7" O.D. x 5-1/2" I.D. x 2-7/16" overall height.
  • High quality aftermarket air filter. $11.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • High quality aftermarket foam wrap/prefilter. $3.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler air filter. $20.05 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • OEM Kohler foam wrap/prefilter. $4.55 each, plus shipping & handling.

NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/prefilter, use electrical contact cleaner, brake parts cleaner, cleaning solvent or paint thinner (these leave no oily residue) and 150± psi compressed air, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because some of the oil could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is running, partially clogging it.

Pleated Air Filter Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters. Fits certain Kohler engine models M8, K321/M14, K341/M16, KT17 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20 with the tall round metal air cleaner/filter assembly. Can also be used on a garden pulling tractor, mini rods, hot rods, race cars, etc. with an automotive engine. Non-restricting flame retardant filter. Performance engineered for increased breathing. Air filter: Kohler 45 083 02-S; Cub Cadet 759-3359. Foam Wrap/Prefilter: Kohler 45 083 01-S. Air filter element dimensions (±): 6" O.D. x 4-11/16" I.D. x 3" overall height.
  • High quality aftermarket air filter. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • High quality aftermarket foam wrap/prefilter. $3.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler air filter. $17.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • OEM Kohler foam wrap/prefilter. $3.75 each, plus shipping & handling.

NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/prefilter, use electrical contact cleaner, brake parts cleaner, cleaning solvent or paint thinner (these leave no oily residue) and 150± PSI compressed air, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because some of the oil could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is running, partially clogging it.

Pleated Air Filter Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters. Fits various Kohler engine models K241, K301, K341, K482, K532 and K582 with the tall round-shaped metal air cleaner/filter assembly. Can also be used on mini rods, hot rods, race cars, etc. with an automotive engine. Non-restricting flame retardant filtering material. Performance engineered for increased breathing. Air filter: Kohler 277138-S. Foam Wrap/Prefilter: Kohler 277593-S. Air filter element dimensions (±): 6" O.D. x 4-3/4" I.D. x 4" overall height.
  • High quality aftermarket air filter. $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • High quality aftermarket foam wrap/prefilter. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler air filter. $20.70 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • OEM Kohler foam wrap/prefilter. $16.10 each, plus shipping & handling.

NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/prefilter, use electrical contact cleaner, brake parts cleaner, cleaning solvent or paint thinner (these leave no oily residue) and 150± psi compressed air, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because some of the oil could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is running, partially clogging it.

NOTE: Air filters and foam wraps/prefilters are available for many other makes and models of engines. If you need something that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's with your engine model and specification numbers and I'll see if we can get it for you at a reasonable price. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any of the listed above È parts or items.

FYI - About the air cleaner assembly on the Kohler K90/K91 engine with the Carter Model N #13 or #16 carburetor shown above, being the OEM Kohler air cleaner assembly and individual components are no longer available, and used OEM Kohler air cleaner assemblies or components in good condition are extremely hard to find nowadays and/or is cost prohibitive, the lower priced and readily available OEM Tecumseh air cleaner assembly shown on the Kohler K91 engine above will fit this engine with one modification that needs to be made. The center of the [plastic] mounting adapter will need to be bored-out/enlarged to match the diameter of the inlet opening of the carburetor to allow the engine to draw plenty of air. This air cleaner assembly includes a pleated paper air filter element (part # 35066), plastic twist-on cover (part # 35065), plastic mounting adapter (part # 35797), and mounting gasket (part # 27272A). Two 8-32 UNC screws with two small spacers and two flat washers w/lock washers and gasket are also needed to securely fasten the adapter to the carburetor. And the OEM Tecumseh air cleaner assembly shown to the right (part # 730164), which includes a pleated paper air filter element, metal cover, and metal mounting plate, will also fit this engine with no modifications whatsoever. An ingenious and innovative idea by Brian Miller because nobody else mentions about doing this online. The OEM Kohler air cleaner assemblies for Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161 and K181 will also fit the K90/K91 engine carburetor.


The Carburetor (Intake) Air/Fuel Mixture Baffle Plate - (Added 1/30/18) [Top of Page]

The OEM Kohler Carburetor (Intake) Air/Fuel Mixture Baffle Plate is made of .018" thickness aluminum, is installed (sandwiched) between two mounting gaskets between the carburetor and intake manifold or engine block. Its purpose is to "swirl" the incoming air/fuel mixture to atomize the fuel better with the air so the engine will produce more horsepower and torque. According to kohlerplus.com, this particular part (Kohler part #'s 52 063 40-S and 82 755 24-S, both discontinued from Kohler) originally came on Kohler Magnum opposed twin cylinder M18 engines with specification numbers: 24620 (AYP tractor), 24644 (AYP tractor), 24646 (Cub Cadet), 24665 (AYP tractor), 24666 (AYP tractor); and MV18 engines with specification numbers: 58553 (AYP tractor), 58556 (AYP tractor), 58560 (AYP tractor), 58561 (AYP tractor); and M20 engines with specification numbers: 49603 (AYP tractor), 49634 (AYP tractor); and MV20 engines with specification numbers: 57525 (Exmark), 57526 (Yardman), 57527 (AYP tractor), 57528 (AYP tractor), 57529 (AYP tractor). It can also be used on the Kohler single cylinder engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 for improved performance. Return To Previous Paragraph or Section


How to repair stripped-out air cleaner/filter base mounting screw holes in a Carter, Kohler #26, #28, #30 or Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetor. - An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise these repair procedures. (Updated 9/11/18)

Method #1: On the Kohler #26 or #30 carburetors with five air cleaner/filter base mounting screw holes (2 for the K-series, and 3 for the AQS (Quiet Line) models), if the two lower holes (located at the 4:00 and 8:00 positions) are stripped-out but not overly enlarged...

  1. Use an 11/64" drill bit to drill all the way through the stripped-out holes until the drill bit comes out the other end (don't drill into the float bowl area!), and if the threads in the upper hole (12:00 position) is also stripped out, drill 1" depth in this hole, too. (Don't drill into the high speed adjuster hole!)
  2. Use a (preferably new) 10-32 UNF plug tap to cut new threads deeper in the drilled holes.
  3. Finally, use 150± PSI compressed air to clear out any metal fragments, and use 3/4" long x 10-32 UNF screws with lock washers to securely fasten the air cleaner/filter base to the carburetor.

Method #2: Do this when the holes are too big for 10-32 UNF screws are described above, Heli-Coil thread inserts, or even 12-24 UNC screws will not fix the problem. NOTE: It takes a person with expert mechanical skills to perform the repair mentioned below Ê work. I have done this many times and it works great.

  1. Parts needed:
    • Several inches of 1/4-20 UNC mild steel threaded rod. If the holes in the carburetor body are already 1/4", then use 5/16-18 UNC mild steel threaded rod. (All Thread, long threaded rod or long threaded bolt.) NOTE: 5/16" is the maximum that can fit.
    • 1/4" x 2"+ long solid aluminum rod.
  2. Remove the choke plate and shaft from the carburetor body. When removing the choke shaft, there's a tiny (1/8" or 5/32") steel ball and small compression spring located at the 9:00 position when facing the choke end with the float area down. When the choke shaft is removed, hold one finger over the end of the choke shaft hole and the screw hole to prevent the ball from popping out and possibly getting lost. By the way - the ball and spring is required only for hand-operation of the choke plate to keep it in the open position on stand-alone engines, such as on a garden tiller, portable generator/welder, portable air compressor, portable water pump, etc. The ball and spring is not needed if the choke is remotely operated with a choke cable, such as on a garden tractor, etc.
  3. For 1/4" thread insert, enlarge the stripped-out hole(s) in the carburetor body with a 13/64" drill bit, or for 5/16" thread insert, enlarge the hole with a 17/64" drill bit.
  4. Cut threads all the way through in the drilled hole(s) with a 1/4-20 UNC or 5/6-18 UNC plug hand tap.
  5. If a small metal lathe with a self-centering 3-jaw chuck is available, steps 3 and 4 can be skipped by chucking the insert in the lathe, and drill and tap threads through the insert. IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable using a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist with a lathe.
  6. Apply high strength liquid threadlocker in the threaded hole(s), insert the 1/4" solid aluminum rod through the choke shaft holes, and install a minimum 1/4" length of 1/4" or 5/16" threaded rod in the hole(s) until they bottom out against the aluminum rod, creating thread inserts. Remove the aluminum rod immediately to prevent the threadlocker from sealing it too in place.
  7. When the high strength liquid threadlocker has fully cured (usually takes 24 hours at room temperature), cut off or grind the threaded rod(s) flush with the choke flange. If a choke plate is going to be used, make sure the end of the insert(s) will not to interfere with movement of the choke shaft. If necessary, grind interference of the insert with a Dremel or equivalent small rotary grinder chucked with either a very small grinding stone (chainsaw sharpening stone) or an 1/8" high speed steel end mill.
  8. Resurface the choke flange on a wide, flat belt sander or large disc sander, or on the side of an abrasive metal cutting wheel on a electric chop saw (the kind that automotive muffler shops use) to remove any warpage and restore flatness (be sure to use eye protection!) so any protruding part of the insert(s) are flush with the carburetor body.
  9. Carefully locate the dead center and place a punch mark in each insert.
  10. Drill an 11/64" hole through the insert(s). For accuracy, it's best to use a drill press or milling machine to do this. Heat from the drilling process may cause the threadlocker material to loosen, which could cause the insert to thread down in the choke shaft hole. To prevent the insert from unthreading, insert the 1/4" aluminum rod through the choke shaft holes so the insert will bottom out against the aluminum. Allow the drill bit to penetrate the aluminum slightly to go the full length of the insert. And to lessen the chance of overheating the threadlocker material when drilling the hole, use plenty of cutting oil, and drill slowly into hole(s) with a 5/32" drill bit, then finish with the 11/64" bit. Use sharp (preferably new) drill bits, too.
  11. Allow the inserts to thoroughly cool after the drilling process (dip in cold water), then use a 10-32 UNF TAPER hand tap to initially cut new threads through the insert(s), then finish cutting the threads all the way through the insert(s) with a PLUG tap. Again, as a precaution to prevent the insert from threading into the choke shaft hole, insert the 1/4" aluminum rod through the choke shaft holes, and allow the plug tap to cut threads into the rod so the threads will go the full length of the insert. Click or tap here to learn how to cut new threads, the professional way
  12. With the 1/4" aluminum rod in the choke shaft holes, use a 1/4" drill bit to lightly chamfer or bevel the threaded hole in the insert(s).
  13. Apply motor oil in the threaded holes, and then the choke shaft/plate can be reinstalled, and the air cleaner/filter base or a velocity stack can now be securely fastened to the carburetor.


Never Over-Tighten the Mounting Bolts or Use Multiple Gaskets When Fastening the Carburetor to the Engine! (Updated 11/26/16)

When installing the carburetor to an engine, the use of two or more gaskets and then torquing the mounting bolts to specs, or just over-tightening the bolts will severely warp the mounting flange on a carburetor, causing it to bend, which will create a vacuum leak, or worse yet, being cast aluminum don't bend or flex too easily, the flange could break. So remember, before installing any carburetor, first resurface the mounting flange on a wide, flat belt sander or large disc sander, or on the side of an abrasive metal cutting wheel on a electric chop saw (the kind that automotive muffler shops use) to remove any warpage and restore flatness (be sure to use eye protection!), and for general lawn and garden use, install just one thin (.030" thickness) gasket or one (5/32" thickness) heat isolator gasket. And be sure to use the "two-bolt torque" sequence! To do this, lightly tighten the first bolt, then lightly tighten the second bolt, and tighten the first bolt securely, and then tighten the second bolt securely.

If a Carter or Kohler or Walbro carburetor body is broken and/or damaged beyond repair, the carburetor body is 100% scrap metal. (If the threads for the float bowl retaining bolt are stripped-out, read below Ê.) But the parts on the carburetor body are considered valuable and can be used on another carburetor body that's in good condition (if some of the parts are in fact reusable). Parts such as: throttle and choke shafts and plates, choke friction (detent) ball and spring, idle speed adjusting screw and spring, idle fuel mixture screw and spring, high speed air/fuel needle adjuster and spring, main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube), fuel inlet valve and seat (if not worn and leaks fuel), float, float pin, float bowl, neoprene rubber O-ring seal, fuel baffle/splash shield, bowl retaining screw, and fuel hose fitting. The OEM (US) manufacturers are phasing out many parts for flathead engines due to EPA smog emissions. But some parts may still be available in aftermarket.

How to Repair Stripped-Out Float Bowl Retaining Bolt Threads in a Carter or Kohler or Walbro Carburetor - An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else mentions these type of repairs.

But if the threads for the float bowl retaining bolt are stripped-out in a Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetor, an 8mm fine thread (M8 x 1.25 pitch) metric bolt can be used. But if the metric threads become stripped-out, then a 3/8-24 UNF bowl retaining bolt (for the Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 or Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors) can be used. For the 8mm metric bolt, an 8mm x 1.25 bottom hand tap will need to be used. But for a 3/8-24 bolt, the stripped-out hole will need to be enlarged with a 21/64" drill bit (be careful not to drill into the main jet; there's no need to remove the main jet/nozzle), and new threads will need to be cut perpendicular to the carburetor body with a 3/8-24 UNF bottom hand tap. A bottom tap cuts the threads deeper with very little taper at the end. Do not complete the tapping process with just a taper or plug tap because the threads may not go deep enough for the bigger bolt. However, the threads can be started with a taper or plug tap, but will need to be finished with the bottom tap. Then use 150± PSI compressed air to thoroughly clear out the metal drilling/cuttings from the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube) and entire carburetor! A 3/8" I.D. fiber washer will need to be used with the 3/8" bolt, and the hole in the float bowl will need to be drilled out to 3/8" to match the bolt in the carburetor, or use a float bowl with a 3/8" hole. And do not over-tighten the metric bolt to prevent from stripping the new threads. If the metric threads strip out, the carburetor body is scrap metal.

If the threads for the float bowl retaining bolt are stripped-out in a Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30, Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 or virtually any other carburetor that use a 3/8"-24 UNF float bowl retaining bolt, a 10mm fine thread (M10 x 1.25 pitch) x 3/8" thread length bolt can be used. If a 3/8" length metric bolt can't be found, a longer bolt that's made of mild steel can be machined down (shortened) in a metal lathe. IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable using a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist with a lathe. Being the stripped-out hole is already large enough for the M10 x 1.25 threads to be cut, so it won't need to be drilled out. But if it does need drilling out (enlarging), use an 8.8 mm or 11/32" drill bit (be careful not to drill into the main jet; there's no need to remove the main jet/nozzle), then new threads will need to be cut perpendicular to the carburetor body with a M10 x 1.25 bottom hand tap. A bottom tap cuts the threads deeper with very little taper at the end. Do not complete the tapping process with just a taper or plug tap because the threads may not go deep enough for the metric bolt. However, the threads can be started with a taper or plug tap, but will need to be finished with the bottom tap. Then use 150± PSI compressed air to thoroughly clear out the metal drilling/cuttings from the main jet/nozzle and entire carburetor! Also, the holes in the fiber washer and in the float bowl for the retaining bolt will need to be enlarged to 13/32" to match the bolt in the carburetor. And do not over-tighten the metric bolt to prevent from stripping the new threads. If the metric threads strip out, the carburetor body is scrap metal. But save everything off of it because they can be used on another carburetor body that's in good condition.

On a used (and supposedly clean) carburetor, if the float bowl retaining bolt will not effortlessly tighten against the float bowl to secure it in place, DO NOT FORCE THE BOLT TO TIGHTEN! Doing this may cause the thin-wall metal to split, possibly rendering the carburetor useless. The resistance in threading the bolt in the hole is caused by debris "gumming up" the threads in the carburetor body (or in the threads of the bolt). Instead, clean the threads in the carburetor body with a 3/8-24 UNF BOTTOM hand tap, then use 150± PSI compressed air to clear out the debris. With a bottom tap, there's no need to remove the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube). But if the protruding part where the float bowl bolt threads into is previously cracked or does split, a spring-loaded 1/2" fuel hose clamp can be installed over the protruding part with the opening in the clamp opposite the crack. This will reinforce the aluminum, squeeze the tube back to its original size and prevent the crack from spreading when the bolt is tightened. After the clamp is installed, grind the protruding tangs flush with the clamp so they will not make contact with and interfere with the operation of the float. The clamp will then become a permanent part of the carburetor. And if any part of the clamp blocks off the fuel feed holes, a new 3/32" fuel feed hole will need to be drilled through the opening in the clamp so fuel from the float bowl can reach the main jet/nozzle. This size hole should be big enough to allow plenty of fuel to enter through the main jet. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this type of repair.


How to Repair the Vacu-Jet (3hp) and Pulsa-Jet (3.5 or 4hp) Automatic Choke Carburetor on a Vertical Shaft Briggs & Stratton Flathead Engine - [Top of Page]

The Vacu-Jet carburetor operates off of engine vacuum to delivery fuel to the engine. (The very first Vacu-Jet carburetors have a manual choke, and no diaphragm. The second design Vacu-Jet carburetor use a diaphragm, and have a manual choke. The third design Vacu-Jet use a diaphragm and has an automatic choke.) And the Pulsa-Jet has a built-in fuel pump to delivery fuel to the engine. Both of the [newest design] Vacu-Jet and Pulsa-Jet carburetors have an automatic choke. If either of these carburetors run rich on fuel, and the choke will not open after starting, what has happened is where the carburetor is fastened to the fuel tank, these two "mating surfaces" has become warped. This is caused by over-tightening of the air filter housing screw. To fix this...

  1. Remove the carburetor/fuel tank assembly from the engine.
  2. Remove the choke rod cover from the carburetor and the carburetor from the fuel tank.
  3. Completely disassemble the carburetor, except for the throttle shaft and choke plate. Gently remove the fuel pickup tubes with a 3/8" and 9/16" 6-point socket. Be careful not to twist them off in the carburetor!
  4. Use a carburetor jet cleaner wire set or an oxy-acetylene welding torch tip cleaner to clear out the dried gas and/or dirt/debris from the idle and main nozzle holes. Be careful not to enlarge the holes, or the engine will run rich on fuel!
  5. There is no need to use B&S's roll pin and Teflon washer repair kit for a warped carburetor and gas tank! Instead, resurface the carburetor's diaphragm surface on a wide, flat belt sander or large disc sander, or on the side of an abrasive metal cutting wheel on a electric chop saw (the kind that automotive muffler shops use) to remove any warpage and restore flatness. (Be sure to use eye protection!) If the carburetor is warped, the sander will make contact where the screw holes are, but not between the screw holes.
  6. Again, there is no need to use B&S's roll pin and Teflon washer repair kit for a warped carburetor and gas tank! Instead, with the gas tank lightly clamped in a large bench vise, resurface the diaphragm surface with a large, wide, flat file to remove any warpage and restore flatness. Use caution! Do not "rock the file" when resurfacing the mating surface of the tank! Use diagonal and swirling motions of the file so the diaphragm surface will be more or less even across the gas tank, or very little will be gained.'
  7. NOTE: Don't believe all brain-washed, factory-trained technicians. Because sometimes one must improvise to make something work. And regardless how the service/repair manual reads, using a large, flat file to make the warped surface on a carburetor and/or fuel tank flat again will not hurt anything if a skillful person does it correctly. B&S wants to make more money by selling unsuspecting customers new parts. That's why they write their manuals the way they do. Remember the old saying: "A fool and their money are soon parted." B&S probably laugh all the way to the bank after making every sale, too.
  8. After resurfacing, use a hacksaw blade to recut (or deepen) the shallow groove from the choke bellow well to the vacuum port. Doing this will allow the choke plate to open immediately when the engine starts. Failure to do this will allow the choke plate to open very slowly or not open at all, which will cause the engine to flood out and die.
  9. Use 150± PSI compressed air to clear out the metal filings and any dirt or debris from the air and fuel passageways in the carburetor, screens on the fuel pickup tubes, and entire fuel tank.
  10. Reinstall the fuel pickup tubes in the carburetor with the 3/8" and 9/16" 6-point socket. Be careful not to twist them off in the carburetor!
  11. To reinstall the carburetor on the gas tank, hold the carburetor upside-down, place the fuel pump spring and protective cup in its counterbore, and the diaphragm on the carburetor (a new diaphragm should be installed), and place the tank on the carburetor. Doing this retains the diaphragm and fuel pump spring/protector in place. Make sure the fuel pump flapper valves are in place, too. Then while holding the carburetor tight against the tank, flip both the carburetor and gas tank over and the screws can be installed.
  12. Insert the choke rod in the choke shaft and flip the choke plate over of normal operation. This preloads the bellow in the diaphragm, making it flex easier and allows the choke plate open easier when the engine starts.
  13. If it's a Pulsa-Jet carburetor, invert the carburetor (turn upside down) and place the fuel pump spring in first with the protective cap on the spring. Place the spring and cap in the carburetor recess, and not in the fuel tank recess. With the carburetor still upside down, install the diaphragm on the carburetor, place the tank on the carburetor, then flip them over to loosely install the mounting screws.
  14. Connect the choke rod to the choke lever, and flip the choke plate over in the reverse rotation with the lever facing downward. Doing this places pressure on the bellow of the diaphragm so the choke plate can open more freely without binding when the engine starts.
  15. Tighten the carburetor mounting screws, reinstall the choke rod cover with a new gasket and that's it!


How to Repair the Pulsa-Jet Carburetor on a Vertical or Horizontal Shaft 5hp Briggs & Stratton Flathead Engine -

If a 5hp B&S engine has excellent spark and adequate compression, but doesn't run right, then the problem is obviously in the carburetor. To fix the problem...

  1. Remove the carburetor from the engine and fuel tank, completely disassemble, and clean the carburetor body and metal parts with an ultrasonic cleaning machine. Personally, I use automotive windshield washer fluid and a small amount of laundry detergent in my ultrasonic cleaner and it cleans carburetor and other small parts very well. Although Berryman® Chem-Dip® Carburetor and Parts Cleaner can also be used to dissolve or loosen any dried gas deposits, crud and debris. And use brake cleaner, parts cleaner or paint thinner to finish cleaning off the remaining grime, then blow-dry the parts with 150± PSI compressed air and to clear the debris from the carburetor body and idle fuel passageway.
  2. Use a carburetor jet cleaner wire set or an oxy-acetylene welding torch tip cleaner to clear out the dried gas and/or dirt/debris from the idle and main nozzle holes. Be careful not to enlarge the holes, or the engine will run rich on fuel!
  3. Use 150± PSI compressed air to clear the debris from the nozzle holes, entire carburetor and fuel tank.
  4. Clean the screens on the pickup tubes.
  5. When the carburetor-to-block mounting screws are tightened for the first time, this causes the carburetor mounting flange to warp, which allows for a vacuum leak. To fix this, resurface the carburetor flange on a wide, flat belt sander or large disc sander, or on the side of an abrasive metal cutting wheel on a electric chop saw (the kind that automotive muffler shops use) to remove any warpage and restore flatness. (Be sure to use eye protection!) If the flange is warped, the sander will make contact where the bolt holes are, but not between the bolt holes.
  6. Again, when the fuel pump cover mounting screws are tightened for the first time, this causes the cover to warp, which causes a vacuum leak, and the pump will not produce full flow and pressure to the reservoir bowl. To fix this, resurface the cover with a wide, flat belt sander or large disc sander, or on the side of an abrasive metal cutting wheel on a electric chop saw (the kind that automotive muffler shops use) to remove any warpage and restore flatness. (Be sure to use eye protection!)
  7. Install a new fuel pump diaphragm, carburetor to tank gasket and carburetor to block gasket, set the fuel mixture adjustment screw about 1-½ turns out, and make the final adjustment after the engine runs.
  8. If the throttle shaft needs to be removed for whatever reason, first pull the sheet metal spiral from the throttle bore with large pliers or long/needle-nose Vise-Grips locking pliers. Then access to the throttle plate retaining screw can be gained with a long slender screwdriver. Repair as needed.
  9. Your engine should run like new afterwards!


How to clean the main jet in a 16hp/18hp flathead opposed (flathead) twin cylinder Briggs & Stratton engine -

The main jet is located in the float bowl of the carburetor. To access and clean it...

  1. If equipped, remove the hood of the tractor (they're easy to remove).
  2. Remove the air cleaner/filter assembly. Be careful not to drop the screws down inside the carburetor!
  3. Remove the choke cable from the carburetor.
  4. Remove the top of the carburetor.
  5. Remove the hex plug on the side of the carburetor.
  6. Use a carburetor jet cleaner wire set or an oxy-acetylene welding torch tip cleaner to clean out the hole (orifice) in the main jet. The hole (orifice) in the main jet is accessed through where the hex plug is. Be careful not to enlarge the hole (orifice) in the main jet, or the engine will run rich on fuel!
  7. Use 150± PSI compressed air to clear out the hole (orifice) in the main jet and dirt/debris from the float bowl area.
  8. Reinstall everything in reverse order of removal.

Your engine should rev up without using the choke afterwards! This may have to be done every few years because these type of carburetors are notorious for having tiny particles of dirt/debris that passes through the fuel filter settle at the bottom of the float bowl. The main jet is real close to the bottom of the float bowl too, which allows dirt/debris to clog it over time.


A-1 Miller's Computerized Stuska Water Brake Engine Dynamometer (Dyno) Service with DPM Data Logger Software to Test Horsepower and Torque! | [Top of Page]

For performance testing of 10-16hp single cylinder Kohler stock or competition pulling engines at speeds up to 12,000 RPM. 100% accurate, customers can rent dyno time, fine tune and make adjustments or changes to their engines to gain maximum horsepower and torque, and print-out the results so their tractor(s) will be truly competitive on the track. With an engine dyno, the puller can adjust their engine to get maximum horsepower and torque, and gear their tractor appropriately to have an advantage over the competition. NOTE: A fresh-built engine may not produce full power until it's broke-in. This is when the valves wear-in with the seats to completely seal in the compression. The rings will likely hold the compression, but the valves may leak slightly until they wear into the seats. This is normal for all engines and may take several hours or pulls to happen, then the valves will be able to hold full compression. Lots of pullers tell A-1 Miller's after I've built their engines that it seems to pull stronger every time they pull it.

Engine Dyno Rental Fee: $50.00 per hour run time from the moment the engine is started. No setup fee for Cub Cadet engines with a 3- or 6-pin/stud clutch driver. An adapter may need to be needed or fabricated for other makes and models of engines. Only engines with the narrow base oil pan can be tested. Engines with the wide base (tall) oil pan cannot be tested at this time. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]


Coming Soon - Detailed Illustrated Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back and Self-Propelled Garden Tractor Pulling Sled. FYI - The professionally-built self-propelled pulling sled is the only one I've ever built (click the picture to the right to see a larger image of this sled), and I got it right the first time, with very few changes or modifications that had to be made to it. I guess I'm just one of those kind of guys that knows what he's doing. Pullers really like pulling our sled, too. They say it's the best sled they've ever pulled. (Not bragging, just stating a fact.) By the way - Track Master sled is engineered so well (by Brian Miller), that other sled builders/owners have copied my well thought-out and proven design. And I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence. Anyway, I have lots of work to do in my shop and I work on the sled plans in my spare time. As soon as my plans with an inventory list of parts to use are perfected, I'll post the update in my websites with the prices of the plans. Remember - Perfection takes time. If it's worth having, it's worth waiting for. Also, I plan to acquire a bigger shop and may build high quality garden tractor pulling sleds in the future to offer for sale. Please call 573-256-0313 (shop) or 573-881-7229 (cell; text or voice message), or email pullingtractor@aol.com if interested. - Brian Miller


To place an order and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance and support, please contact:

If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle, tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're planning to relocate our business to other property with a bigger and better shop so we can hire more help and provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)

To place an order, please call the number below Ê or send an email with your name, complete and correct postal address and phone number and so I can figure the total with shipping cost and USPS Tracking. For payment options for parts ordered or services performed, or to make a donation to my websites, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge), Western Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram Money Transfers. (If a part for a specific purpose is special ordered, your debit/credit card may be charged for the full amount or as a deposit right after your order is placed; please do not send your debit/credit card information in email!) Or you can pay A-1 Miller's through PayPal. (My PayPal account name is my email address. And be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment is for.) If sending a money order, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone number and a description of what the payment is for. My mailing address and phone number are below Ê . I'll make a note of your order, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send the parts to you as soon as I have everything in stock after I receive your payment.

IMPORTANT - When sending your part(s) to A-1 Miller's for rebuilding or repair, package everything securely so the item(s) won't get damaged in shipping and please include a note in the box with your name, mailing address, phone number (in case I have any questions) and a description of what you want done. When shipping heavy parts, it's best to put a slightly smaller box inside a larger box, to double the strength and integrity of the package. Because the clumsy "gorillas" or incompetent and uncaring workers that work for certain delivery services mishandle the heavy packages and don't care. And when the work is completed, I'll either call or email you an invoice with the total including shipping & handling.

Payment Options and We Ship to Canada and Worldwide
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S. territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground or equivalent services. We try to keep our shipping cost to customers within reason. Therefore, we don't ship our products in a fancy-looking package with our company name and/or logo on it because most customers will just toss it in the trash after they remove the contents. And being there is no USPS tracking number outside the US, all I can do is make sure I write your address correctly on the customs form and on your package.

My websites are not set up to process orders and accept payments. Therefore, for payment options, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total amount for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge), Western Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram Money Transfers. If paying with a credit/debit card, please call me at either number below. To make a payment to me through PayPal, please click this link: https://www.paypal.me/PullingTractor. Please use the "Friends and Family" option, or add 3% to the total amount to cover PayPal's processing surcharge. Or to make a payment to me (pullingtractor@aol.com) in the US through the Venmo app, please click this link: venmo.com. Or use Cash App to make a payment to me (pullingtractor@aol.com). And be sure to mention in PayPal, Venmo or Cash App a description of what the payment is for with your full name, postal address, phone number and email address. If sending a money order or cashier's check, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete mailing address, phone number, email address and a description of what the payment is for. I'll make a note of your order when I have all your information, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send everything on your list to you as soon as I have the parts in stock after I receive your payment.



à Return to Main Pulling Tips Page | Return To Previous Page | Various Vendors Related to Tractor Pulling | Top of Page

Copyright © 1996-Present. This website created, designed and maintained by Brian Miller.