Please visit these other Brian Miller's websites: |
Copyright © 1996-Present. This website created, designed and maintained by Brian Miller.
Please visit these other Brian Miller's websites: |
Copyright © 1996-Present. This website created, designed and maintained by Brian Miller.
![10-18hp Kohler (or Carter [model N]) Carburetor](images/carb.jpg)
Information
about Carburetors, Various Fuels and Fuel Systems for Small Engines and Garden
Pulling Tractors
There's a cheater in every sport, and competition tractor
pulling is no different. Honest pullers who ignore the cheater(s) are fools.
And when there's prize money involved, a fool and their money are soon parted.
Anyway, to make competition pulling a fun and fair sport for the entire family,
be protective of your equipment! While at the pulls, keep an eye on your
carburetor and fuel shut-off valve! When a competitive or winning pulling
tractor is left alone, it's been known that certain disgruntled pullers
(sore losers 
) belonging
to various associations/clubs, virtually anywhere and everywhere, will turn
the high speed air/fuel adjuster one way or the other, or close the fuel
shut-off valve to keep the engine from running at it's full potential, or
from running at all. This is one of the easiest, dishonest and sneaky ways
to retard or disable and sabotage a competitor's tractor. All a cheater needs
is an opportunity in an attempt to gain an advantage on the track. This is
also the fastest way for a pulling association or club to gain a bad reputation
and lose honest pullers. (Bad news travels fast.) This type of dishonest
behavior doesn't happen often, but you need to be prepared if or when it
does happen. To be prepared for this unforeseeable event, it'll be a good
idea to cover the entire carburetor with a
drawstring bag, or better yet, cover the entire tractor
with a canvas or heavy blanket.
Keep an eye on your
killswitch plug, too! Always try to stay one step ahead of a
cheater.
Use a Remote Fuel Primer Bulb System to Start a Cold
Engine - An ingenious, thoroughly researched and innovative
concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise the use of this system
on a garden tractor. 
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If a Carter and Kohler carburetor (or virtually any type of float carburetor) that's used on a lawn or garden machine, or pulling tractor don't have a choke plate assembly installed, but does have an air filter assembly, or an air filter with a velocity stack, and if the engine have to be "hand choked" to start it, then you probably already know how hard it is to get your hand sealed over the entire velocity stack or end of the carburetor, and also have a wet hand from the raw fuel afterwards. The remote fuel primer bulb system installed will prevent this. Having a small hose connected to the atmospheric vent opening (air passageway from inside the float bowl area to outside of carburetor) in the carburetor is a lot safer than having raw fuel spilling out of the drilled hole on the side of the carburetor when pulling! An inexpensive and safe way to get extra fuel in the throttle bore to start a cold engine is to use a remote fuel primer bulb system. This system can also be adapted for use on ordinary garden tractors, lawn and garden equipment or virtually any type of small engine equipment with virtually any type of float-type carburetor. This system is similar to the same set up that many small engine manufacturers use on their engines nowadays. Works great with pump gas, race gas, E85 or alcohol fuel.
How the Remote Fuel Primer Bulb System Works: With the original atmospheric vent opening (air passageway from inside the float bowl area to outside of carburetor)) in the carburetor plugged, a short brass tube is inserted into a drilled hole in the float bowl area on the side of the carburetor body, and with a small fuel hose connecting the carburetor to the primer bulb assembly, which is mounted on the steering column support pedestal, one quick push on the primer bulb (with your finger over the hole in the bulb to seal in the air) creates air pressure within the bulb, tubing and float bowl, which force fuel up through the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube), creating a slight flooding condition in the throttle bore. Thus, helping a cold engine without a choke plate start much easier. With this system, the engine cannot be "over-choked," which could foul the spark plug. The fuel primer system can also be used as a manual accelerator pump when an engine hesitates to accelerate on its own.
How to Install and Use the Remote Fuel Primer Bulb System:
Remove carburetor from engine,
remove the float bowl and float, and plug the atmospheric vent opening (air
passageway from inside the float bowl area to outside of carburetor) that's
located at the 2:00 position next to the choke plate with a 1/4" Allen set
screw. Cut some short threads for a 1/4" Allen set screw and install the
screw in the opening. If there's a small hole behind and to the right of
the choke plate, install a 3-48 screw with
high strength liquid threadlocker to plug this hole.
And if there's a small hole drilled on the outside of the carburetor body,
this will also need to be plugged with
JB Weld two-part epoxy or a short screw. See photo to the
right. (The installed tube, hose and hole in the primer bulb will be the
new atmospheric vent for the float bowl.)
FYI - Most [cold] engines will not start when fuel is introduced directly into the combustion chamber through the spark plug hole. Doing this only results in a flooding condition and the engine may not start. Gas (or starting fluid) needs to be mixed with incoming air through the carburetor intake so the air can atomize the fuel (break down into a fine mist) to burn more thoroughly so the engine will be able to start quicker.
When removing the choke shaft, there's a tiny
(1/8" or 5/32") steel ball and small compression spring located at the 9:00
position when facing the choke end with the float area down. When the choke
shaft is removed, hold one finger over the screw hole and end of the choke
shaft hole to prevent the ball and spring from popping out and possibly getting
lost. By the way - the ball and spring is required for hand-operation of
the choke to keep it in the open position on stand-alone engines, such as
on a garden tiller, portable generator/welder, portable air compressor, portable
water pump, etc. If choke is remotely solid wire cable-operated, such as
in a tractor, then the ball and spring isn't needed.
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If you need a remote fuel primer kit, please contact A-1 Miller's
Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri)
65203-9136 USA |  Phone:
1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday
(except Holidays), 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try
again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends
(except Holidays). Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for
your arrival.  Fax:
1-573-449-7347.  E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. Go here for more parts:
Carburetor, Fuel System Parts & Machine Shop
Services |
Please click here to place
an order.
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Identification of Carter and Kohler Carburetors -
The carburetors that's used on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160 and K181/M8 are as follows:
The Carter #16
carburetor originally came on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161
and K181/M8, but because of its small venturi, it's best suited for the K90/K91
engine. When used on a bigger engine, due to the velocity of air that's required,
the engine will not produce maximum power at higher RPM. This carburetor
came on various other sizes, makes and models of engines, too. It was a popular
carburetor for its time. The diameter of the venturi measures .542", and
the throttle bore is .810". The original Kohler (Carter) part numbers for
this carburetor are: A-220100, A-220574, A-220745, A-220777, C-220777, E-220517,
F-220762, F-230501, D-220451, G-220517, 46 053 03-S. Being these carburetors
are no longer made (in the USA), their replacement is the Walbro WHL #36.
(Kohler part # 46 853 01-S.)
FYI - When Edelbrock bought out the [automotive division of] Carter Carburetor Corporation sometime before 1984, Carter sold their line of small engine carburetors to Kohler Engines in 1985. Kohler changed the throttle shaft/lever on the Carter Model N #16, #18, #20 and #22 carburetors, and also maintained the Carter name on them. And on the Carter #26 and #30 single cylinder engine carburetors, Kohler redesigned the throttle shaft/lever and made slots in the mounting holes for easier installation and removal on the engine block. Everything else is the same on the Carter and Kohler carburetors, with the exception of the throttle shaft/lever and various choke shaft levers. Six different variations of the Carter/Kohler carburetors was made for the K-series K241 through K361 engines, KT-series and the K482, K532 and K582 opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engines. NOTE: Please don't discard your Carter/Kohler carburetor core. If not rebuildable, certain parts can be reused on a good core. (The OEM (US) manufacturers are phasing out many parts for flathead engines due to EPA smog emissions. But some parts are still available in aftermarket.)
The size number (diameter of
throttle bore) for the Carter/Kohler carburetors is embossed inside the upper
part of the choke end, just above the venturi. But not all Kohler carburetors
have a number embossed. In this case, the throttle bore (throttle plate area)
will need to be measured to determine the size of the carburetor. The size
number refers to the amount of air that can flow through the carburetor.
A #26 carburetor has a 26 millimeter diameter throttle bore, which converts
closely to 1.024 inches (26 ÷ 25.4 = 1.024"), but actually measures
1.07". A #28 carburetor has a 28 millimeter diameter throttle bore, which
converts to 1.102 inches (28 ÷ 25.4 = 1.102"), but actually measures
1.17". And a #30 carburetor has a 30 millimeter diameter throttle bore, which
converts to 1.181 inches (30 ÷ 25.4 = 1.181"), but actually measures
1.200". For precision, when measuring the throttle bore to determine the
size, it's best to use a
dial or digital caliper.
Carburetors that's used on Kohler engines are as follows:
There's another #30 carburetor
designed specifically for the Kohler engine model K582. The throttle shaft
is positioned horizontally and the idle fuel mixture screw is directly on
top of the carburetor body instead of at an angle on the side. This carburetor
have been discontinued from Kohler. L
By the way - the part number for any particular Kohler-made carburetor is stamped on the right side of the mounting flange. Don't refer to the numbers just below the fuel inlet port. They represent nothing that I know of. Click here to identify a Kohler or Walbro carburetor and matching parts: Kohler Carburetor Reference Manual TP-2377-E.pdf. (require Adobe Acrobat Reader and use Google Chrome web browser for a faster download of websites with large files.)
Airflow (CFM = Cubic Feet per Minute) -
FYI - The throttle bore in the Carter/Kohler #26/1.07" carburetors can be bored to 1.17" (#28 size) or 1.2" (#30 size), and the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube) will still bottom out against the throttle bore, and of course, a 1.17" or 1.2" throttle shaft and plate would need to be used. But the boring process will break through the idle fuel mixing well (the idle progression holes and the expansion/welch plug hole) that's next to the throttle plate. Modifications to this area would need to be made by threading in an 1/8" Allen pipe plug where the expansion/welch plug is (was), and drilling and installing a small brass or copper tube from the idle fuel mixture adjuster screw down into the float bowl, next to the float, with enough clearance so it won't interfere with the movement of the float. A 1/4-28 UNF x 3/4" thread length bolt will also need to be installed where the high speed air/fuel needle adjuster is (was) to block off a vacuum leak to will occur with the modifications of the idle air/fuel mixing well. Actually, it would be MUCH easier and less cost effective to just convert either a Carter/Kohler #28 or #30 carburetor for high performance use and not having to do anything to modify the idle fuel passageway.
And boring of the venturi in the carburetor alone will not help to increase engine performance. To increase the overall airflow in and out of the combustion chamber for improved engine performance, and if sanctioning club's rules allow this, the intake (and exhaust) port runners must be enlarged, too. This is called "porting an engine." The [stock size] valves will also need to be reworked for more airflow. Or larger valves and a bigger cam will need to be installed.
For competition pulling, carburetor design and size depends on port sizes, valve sizes, if the intake valve and seat have 30º/31º angles and undercut heads, and the cam profile (lift and duration) is important. If an engine has stock ports, valves and cam, a plain stock carburetor can be used. But if the ports and valves have been reworked for more airflow, and a bigger cam is going to be used, then a bored-out carburetor with a .995" or 1" venturi can be used for best performance.
The 26mm carburetor obviously has a smaller throttle bore. Therefore, is restricted as to how much air can flow through it, even with the venturi removed. It'll work excellent on a hot K241 or mild K301 engine, but the larger 28mm and 30mm carburetors flows more air, 7.7% more for the 28mm, and 15.5% more for the 30mm. Which are ideal for a hot K301 and larger engines with porting, polishing, bigger valves and a big cam. If you feel that a single 30mm carburetor won't flow enough air for your particular engine, then either a "Super Carb," Dellorto, Mikuni, S&S Super D or a twin Kohler carburetor setup (on a "Y" intake) should be used. If you have a K321 Kohler engine, and you can't find a #28 or #30 carburetor, then a Carter or Kohler #26 carburetor will work just fine for general lawn and garden use. Personally, I ran a stock Kohler #26 on the K321 Kohler engine that's on my 6,000 lb. self-propelled pulling sled for 10 years and the engine didn't lack any power whatsoever.
Identification and Information About Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 Carburetors -
The Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64
carburetors originally come on all Magnum engines. These carburetors are
direct replacements for the Kohler carburetors. The Walbro #52 carburetor
has a throttle bore diameter of 1.07" and is designed for use on models K241/M10,
K301/M12, KT17, KT17 series 2, KT19, KT19 series 2, MV16, M18, MV18, M20
and MV20 engines. And the Walbro #60 or #64 carburetor have a throttle bore
diameter of 1.2" and is designed for the K321/M14, K341/M16 engines, and
being the 1.25" Kohler carburetor that was originally designed for the K361
engine is longer available, the only option is to use the Walbro #60 or #64
carburetor.
The older Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors are reliable and they seem to last a long time before requiring service. Most older Walbros are worth rebuilding, because the float valve seats are made of hardened solid bronze, which is actually harder than cast iron. They were manufactured back in the day when most business owners took pride in their products and offered their customers a quality product.
But the newer Walbro carburetors, especially the ones that come on recently-built aluminum block small air-cooled engines, are notorious for leaking gas after several years of use. Although overhaul/rebuild carburetor kits are available, it really does no good to rebuild them and install a new fuel inlet valve because the float valve seat is made of soft brass, which erodes with use due to microscopic particles of dirt/debris that pass through the filtering material in the fuel filter, and in most Walbro carburetors, the seat is not replaceable. The fuel inlet seat in older Walbro carburetors are made of hardened compressed bronze, which is actually harder than cast iron. There is no indication or records of when Walbro made the change from the hard seat to the soft seat.
The filtering material in fuel filters can only filter out so small of particles of dirt/debris. Any heavy particles that can pass through the filter will build up in the bottom of the float bowl and can eventually clog the main jet. Lightweight and suspended particles gets sucked up through the main jet and is burned in the combustion chamber. On very rare occasions, a hair can pass through the filter and become lodged in the float valve fuel inlet seat, causing the carburetor to flood with gas. When this happens, the hair can be removed with [150± psi] compressed air and the same float valve and seat can be reused.
To put it in plain English: If your Walbro carburetor doesn't leak gas out the choke end, but needs an overhaul, then it may be worthwhile to install a new kit. But if it does leak gas, then I doubt that a new float valve will fix the problem. Your only options are: install a fuel shut-off valve and turn off the fuel every time the engine is not in use, or install a rebuilt Carter/Kohler K-series carburetor.
About 90% of small engine carburetors are made by Walbro nowadays, and I don't think that one is better than the other. The trick to getting the soft brass seat (and needle/float valve) to last longer is to use a fuel filter with a very fine mesh or pleated paper element. The finer, the better. Because it's the microscopic dirt/debris/grit that passes through the filter that causes the seat (and needle/float valve) to erode and wear. And every pressed-in brass seat that I've replaced ALWAYS leaked gas. There's just no way to get them to seal with the carburetor body, not even with high strength liquid thread locker.
If a Walbro carburetor drips fuel, and a new carburetor is out of the question, the only options is to either install an under-the-[gas] tank or in-line fuel shut off valve (lots of people do this). Or a new carburetor can be purchased, and hope the leaking fuel situation doesn't happen again in a few years. (Walbro is like Walmart or Sam's Club, they want 'em keep coming back. This undoubtedly is how many world-wide, major businesses nowadays keep selling new high-dollar replacement Chinese-made carburetors and other engine parts to unknowing or ignorant customers.)
The only problem using a Walbro on a pulling tractor or for high performance application is they can't be bored-out or modified in any way because the throttle bore wall (where the venturi is located) is too thin. Therefore, they're limited to how much air can flow through them. The US government EPA laws required that Kohler and all other small engine manufacturers redesign their carburetors so the engine will produce less air pollution. So they started using a redesigned emissions-controlled, EPA-approved Walbro carburetor with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet. This is to prevent people from setting the air/fuel ratio too rich and create more air pollution. The older-designed Walbros that have an adjustable main jet, which is located on the lower right side of the carburetor, are still available new. main jets of various sizes are available for most carburetors with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet so the engine will run correctly depending on the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine will be used.
Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors work great for ordinary lawn and garden equipment, general lawn work and they're perfect for basic stock low RPM/low performance pulling tractors with an engine that's governed to a maximum of 3,200 RPM with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet, or at 3,600 RPM with an adjustable main jet. A carburetor with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet is limited to just 3,200 RPM and should never be operated faster for an extended length of time. Although the venturi cannot be bored-out on a Walbro, they work equally as well as the older Carter/Kohler carburetors when used on a stock engine. The main jet in the newer Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors are calibrated at the factory to provide the engine with just the right amount of fuel at 3,200 RPM. Therefore, the fixed/non-adjustable main jet inside the carburetor cannot be replaced with an adjustable one.
Advertisement:
| If you need the products listed below
Ê, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136
USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313
(shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays),
9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When
speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's
shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends (except Holidays).
Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest.
Please click here
to place an order. |
|
 High
Quality Inductive Handheld Small Engine Wireless Tachometer. For
gas/spark ignite engines only. Very accurate. This handheld analog tachometer
works great for checking/setting the RPM on various small engines in the
shop, and/or for checking/setting the RPM [tech] on stock governored engines
at pulling events, ATVs/UTVS, etc. Hold sensor (antenna) close to spark plug
wire for reading. Operates off a self-contained replaceable 9 volt battery.
Has built-in battery voltage check. Reads up to 5,000 RPM on the low scale,
and 15,000 RPM on the high scale.
|
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 High Quality Inductive
Small Engine Tachometer and Hour Meter. High quality and very accurate.
Large 3/8 inch LCD display. Works with all spark ignition engines by selecting
engine type using S1 and S2 buttons. Instructions included. Tachometer reads
up to 99,999 RPM. Hour meter reads up to 9999:59 hours/minutes. Can be manually
reset to Zero hours. Programmable maintenance hour setting with service icon,
a reminder when to change oil or other service. Easy installation: Single
wire wraps around spark plug wire and secured with two supplied nylon zip-ties.
No wire terminal connections required. Tachometer can be surface-mounted
and secured with two screws. Has built-in battery rated up to 4 years. Sealed
unit; weather and water resistant. Dimensions: 2" wide x 1-3/4" depth x 3/4"
height.
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 High Quality
Digital Tachometer/Proximity Sensor Kits. Will work with small engines
or automotive engines, gas or diesel. This precision digital tachometer is
triggered by the same method as
crank trigger ignition
with a proximity sensor to detect a target, which can be a small ferrous
steel screw or pin, or magnet in a rotating disc or on/in flywheel. A sturdy
steel or aluminum bracket will need to be fabricated by customer to mount
the sensor in close proximity of the detector/trigger target. Set air
gap/clearance at .010"-.188". Tachometer can be dash- or panel-mounted.
Tachometer works with 8-24 volts DC, proximity sensors works with 6-36 volts
DC. Tachometer can be dash- or panel-mounted. Tachometer works with 8-24
volts DC, proximity sensors works with 6-36 volts DC. Dimensions of each
proximity sensor below: 15/32" (12mm) diameter x 1-3/8" thread length. Some
proximity sensors have an LED (Light Emitting Diode) on the rear of unit.
If the proximity sensor is wired incorrectly, the LED will stay on and go
off when activated. Displays up to 9,999 RPM. Very accurate. Tachometer returns
to zero [0000] when power is turned off. Wiring Instructions: #1 wire on
tachometer connects to brown wire on (either) proximity sensor and ignition
switch (battery positive (+) post), #2 wire on tachometer connects to blue
wire on (either) proximity sensor and engine/chassis ground (battery negative
(–) post), and #5 wire on tachometer connects to black wire on (either)
proximity sensor. Wires #3 and #4 connects to nothing. Wiring can also be
integrated with crank trigger
ignition with a proximity sensor. Choice of
RED or
BLUE numeric display.
|
Carter/Kohler or Walbro Fully Adjustable main jet Carburetors VS. Walbro Fixed/Non-Adjustable Main Jet Carburetor RPM to Horsepower Specs -
Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors with a fixed/non-adjustable main
jet are designed with emission controls in mind to run leaner to create less
air pollution. However, the main problem with most Walbros having a
fixed/non-adjustable main jet is during cooler weather operation. During
cool weather, and running at 3,200 RPM, the engine will sometimes run too
lean on fuel and operate erratically. To fix this, first of all, make sure
the hole (orifice) in the main jet is not partially clogged. If it is, use
a
carburetor jet cleaner wire set or an
oxy-acetylene welding torch tip cleaner to clear any debris
that may be lodged in the hole. Then use [150± psi] compressed air to
clear out any dirt/debris. If the engine still runs too lean on fuel, simply
enlarge the hole (orifice) in the main jet a few thousandths of an inch.
Then use [150± psi] compressed air to clear out any metal particles.
Be careful not to enlarge the hole (orifice) in the main jet too much,
or the engine will run rich on fuel! The hole (orifice) diameter in the
OEM factory main jet for 100% gasoline is 3/64" (.047"). If necessary, enlarge
the main jet and fuel inlet holes with a #55 (.052") drill bit. That's a
.0052" difference. After doing this, for cool weather, the engine should
run better, last longer and produce more power. But don't enlarge the hole
(orifice) in the main jet too much! A too big of a hole (orifice) will cause
an engine to run too rich on fuel, making it blow black smoke out the exhaust
and possibly fouling the spark plug. If the hole (orifice) is made too large,
the carburetor will be useless for gasoline, and E85 fuel must be used. But
if an engine is going to be used only during warm weather and if it runs
okay [during warm weather], don't enlarge the hole (orifice) in the main
jet.
On the newer carburetors with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet, the hole (orifice) in the main jet may need to be enlarged .002"-.003" to give the engine a little more fuel so it'll run better at higher RPM. Otherwise, the engine could "burn up" or wear out prematurely due to the lean air/fuel mixture. I have an assortment of tiny drill bits that I use on our customer's lawn & garden equipment carburetors.
A new
style Walbro carburetor with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet should never
be used on a non-governed (wide-open throttle) engine or on an engine that's
going to turn at 3,200 RPM! The reason for this is because if an engine operates
faster with a carburetor having a fixed/non-adjustable main jet, it'll run
too lean on fuel at high RPM (it'll draw much more air than fuel), which
will cause the combustion chamber to overheat and the excessive heat will
likely damage the piston and rings and possibly warp the cylinder head and/or
exhaust valve or even crack the cast iron engine block.
A lean fuel mixture can also melt away part of the
aluminum in the combustion chamber of an aluminum block engine.
The size number on the Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors is embossed inside the carburetor and can be seen by looking inside the upper part of the choke end, just above the venturi. A "52" carburetor has a 26 millimeter diameter throttle bore, which converts closely to 1.024 inches (26 ÷ 25.4 = 1.024"), but actually measures 1.07".
And being the venturi in the
old-style Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors used on Kohler engine models
K90/K91, K141, K160/K161 and K181 can't be bored-out either, the only option
for pulling competitively with these is to fabricate an adapter to fasten
to the intake port on the engine block and use a #52 Walbro or #26 Carter/Kohler
carburetor.
The best way to determine which engine any particular carburetor is made for is to measure the diameter of the throttle bore. Because a set of numbers that's stamped on the carburetor body mean nothing, not even to Kohler Engine dealers. If a carburetor measures .822" (13/16"), then it's designed for the K141, K160/K161 or K181 engines. If it measures 1.07", then it's for the 10hp or 12hp engines. And if it measures 1.17" or 1.2", it's for a K321, K341 or K361 engine.
The Wrong Type of Choke Lever!
Whenever I get a carburetor with the choke lever in the wrong position, if
it has a steel choke shaft, I just grind the lever off at the flare and weld
it back on the shaft in the right position. But if it has a brass shaft,
I use a steel choke shaft out of a junk carburetor. Or if I don't have a
used one in stock, I machine a steel choke shaft from a 1/4" mild steel rod.
Like the old saying goes: "There's more than one way to skin a cat."
The Choke Shaft Detent Ball and Spring -
When removing the choke shaft, there's a tiny
(1/8" or 5/32") steel ball and small compression spring located at the 9:00
position when facing the choke end with the float area down. When the choke
shaft is removed, hold one finger over the screw hole and end of the choke
shaft hole to prevent the ball and spring from popping out and possibly getting
lost. By the way - the ball and spring is required for hand-operation of
the choke to keep it in the open position on stand-alone engines, such as
on a garden tiller, portable generator/welder, portable air compressor, portable
water pump, etc. If choke is remotely solid wire cable-operated, such as
in a tractor, then the ball and spring isn't needed.
Installing the choke shaft over the friction (detent) ball can be tricky. This is how it's done:
Place the carburetor on a sturdy work bench or table with the
choke end facing upward and the float area facing toward you, or gently clamp
it in a bench vise.
or
lubricating grease through the screw holes for smooth choke
operation and less wear to the shaft and/or carburetor body.
How to adjust the fuel mixture screws on a Kohler (or virtually any early small engine) carburetor - Top of page
First of all, as long as the engine runs well, don't worry about how the idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments are made. The adjustments depend on the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine will be used. In higher elevations, air is thin, therefore the engine require more air than fuel to run well. And in lower elevations, air is heavy, and the engine require less air than fuel. So there is obviously no "one set adjustment" for all carburetors. And no new or rebuilt carburetor with adjustable jet(s) for small engines, automotive or whatever, come from the manufacturer or rebuilder with the idle speed, idle air/fuel mixture or the high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments set correctly.
The High Speed Needle Adjuster -
On the Carter/Kohler carburetors, the hole towards the bottom of the long main needle adjuster is supposed to be open, so the engine can draw fuel through it for idling from the float bowl. The idle fuel passageways for a Carter/Kohler carburetor goes as follows: Fuel is first drawn through the high speed needle adjuster via the tiny lower hole (orifice) towards the bottom, then through engine vacuum, it is drawn upward through the tube, then over and down toward the idle mixture screw (which sets at an angle), and then the fuel is drawn into the throttle bore, next to the throttle plate. The information below is mainly for Carter/Kohler carburetors. The fuel mixture screws are used as follows:
For improved idling for a stock or pulling engine with a
Carter/Kohler carburetor, remove the high speed air/fuel mixture adjuster
screw and if it has only one lower hole (orifice), carefully enlarge
the hole by hand with a .039" / #60 / 1mm diameter drill bit clamped in a
mini micro pin vise hand drill chuck. This is the perfect
size to enlarge the lower hole (orifice) on high speed needle adjusters so
the engine will start quicker and idle better. Being the tube is made of
soft brass, there's no need to use an electric drill. Then use [150±
psi] compressed air to clear out any dirt/debris from inside the tube, and
then suck through the tube with your mouth to make sure it's clear and unclogged.
If the tube has two lower through-holes, there's no need to enlarge them
because both of them together makes the opening plenty big. Anyway, if the
tube is still clogged, use a small, bendable steel wire, such as a
bread wrapper twist tie (with the plastic coating stripped
off), to clean out the inside of the tube. Then use the [150± psi]
compressed air to thoroughly clear it out. Suck through the tube with your
mouth to make sure it's clear and unclogged. If performing either of the
above È doesn't clear out the tube,
then acquire a new high speed air/fuel needle adjuster screw or one in good
condition. But make sure it's the correct adjuster for your particular
carburetor!
For the K90/91, K141, K160/161
and K181 engines with the Carter carburetor, if the engine idles fine, but
fails to accelerate, install a short 6-32 UNF screw in the emulsion hole
(orifice) leading to the main nozzle just under the choke plate.
Many times when cleaning a Carter/Kohler carburetor, the expansion/welch plug that's on the side of the carburetor doesn't need to be removed. The only time it needs to be removed is when the tiny fuel feed hole that's next to the throttle plate becomes clogged with dried gas or debris. To clear this hole, with the idle air/fuel mixture screw and the high speed needle adjuster removed, thread a 1/4-28 UNF screw/bolt in place of the high speed needle adjuster (this will place more air pressure against the idle fuel feed hole), apply [150± psi] compressed air in the idle mixture screw hole, and place your finger inside the throttle bore over the fuel feed hole, and if you feel air come out of the hole, the hole is cleared out. If air does come out of the idle fuel feed hole, then the expansion/welch plug will need to be removed and manually cleared out with a carburetor jet cleaner wire set or an oxy-acetylene welding torch tip cleaner. A new expansion/welch plug will need to be installed.
Advertisement:
| If you need any of the parts or services listed below
Ê, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136
USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313
(shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays),
9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When
speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's
shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends (except Holidays).
Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest.
Please click here
to place an order. |
Quality High Speed Steel
Spiral Drill Bit. Size: .039" / #60 / 1mm diameter x 1-3/8" length. Perfect
size to enlarge lower hole (orifice) on high speed needle adjusters above
È for Carter/Kohler carburetors so engine
will start quicker and idle better. An ingenious, thoroughly researched
and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise the
use of this part.
|
| Air Cleaner Assembly and Velocity stack Mounting Screws
Many other small screw sizes available at reasonable prices. |
 Quality High Speed Steel
TAPER Hand Taps. Taper taps allow for the tip to be inserted deeper in the
hole for straightener and easier cutting of threads.
Click here to learn
how to cut new threads, the professional way
|
If an engine blows black smoke out the exhaust while running, then here are the main causes:
Black exhaust smoke is when an engine is getting too much gas and/or not enough air in the combustion chamber. The causes for this are either... (listed from most common to rare causes)
Also, sometimes flooding of the carburetor will deposit gas in the motor oil, but only in a vertical shaft engine. Because gas can't seep into the crankcase on horizontal shaft engines. The cause of the problem is the carburetor is flooding. The gas seeps past the piston ring gaps and into the crankcase. To fix this, clean the float valve (needle and seat) in the carburetor, or install a new carburetor overhaul kit with a new float valve needle and seat. Also, clean out the fuel hoses with [150± psi] compressed air and install a new fuel filter. And then the oil will need to be drained and fresh motor oil installed.
NOTE: Use a thin-wall deep
well 3/8" size socket for easy removal and/or installation of the hex-shaped
float valve seat in the Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 or Carter/Kohler #26, #28,
#30 carburetors. The socket may need to be machined down to 1/2" diameter
in a metal lathe so it will fit into the seat depression in carburetor body.
And use a large, wide flat blade screwdriver to remove and/or install the
slotted float valve seat.
The Cause of Carburetor Flooding at Slow Idle with a Long Duration/High Performance Camshaft -
Sometimes when using a long duration/high performance camshaft, despite if the engine has a modified or stock carburetor, if the engine idles for a long period of time, it may run rich on fuel at slow idle speeds. What happens is with a long duration cam, intake vacuum is low and with a single cylinder engine, excess fuel builds up in the intake extension/port. Any engine that has a long duration camshaft have low vacuum at slow idle speeds. The longer the duration, the lower the vacuum. What causes excess fuel to build up in the intake is the long duration of the cam lobes holds the [intake] valve open longer, and at slow idle, the pressure of the piston blows some of the air/fuel back into the intake tube. The more duration a cam has, the worse this will be. As the engine is accelerated, black smoke or raw unburned fuel will blow out the exhaust until the fuel is cleared out of the intake tube. With the engine running well above idle, air becomes trapped within the combustion chamber and the piston don't have time to blow any air/fuel back into the intake. This happens with automotive gasoline, E85 or 100% methanol fuels, and there's nothing that can be done about it. There's probably nothing wrong with the carburetor, and nothing can be done to the idle circuit to prevent this. Just make a simple adjustment with the idle air/fuel mixture screw so the engine idles smoothly, and don't allow the engine to idle for a long period of time.
The Major Causes of Carburetor Flooding -
Personally, I don't put any additives in my gas. I think it's a waste of money and effort. I just dump any left-over gas from my customer's small engine equipment in my car or truck, let it mix with the fresh gas that's already in the tank, then I use fresh gas in my customer's small engine equipment. If there's water in the gas, I separate the gas from the water in a bucket (water always goes to the bottom). And if there's dirt/debris in the gas, I strain/filter the gas through a clean shop towel placed in a large funnel in a gas can.
What prevents most carburetor and fuel system from having problems when using gasoline is to run the engine out of fuel or draining the entire fuel system if it's not going to be used for more than 30 days at a time. If there's no fuel left in the system, then there should be no problems. The following causes are listed from most common to rare.
If fuel drips out of or from the carburetor...
Fuel leak at the carburetor float
bowl rubber O-ring seal. Only happens when engine is in use.
If gas constantly pours out of the carburetor...
If the carburetor on an engine
has been setting for some time without an air filter housing, and if gas
pours out of the carburetor only when cranking the engine, especially with
a mechanical fuel pump, then the gas stops pouring out when the engine isn't
cranked, check for a clogged atmospheric vent opening (air passageway from
inside the float bowl area to outside of carburetor) in the carburetor. Sometimes
a
mud dauber (wasp-like insect) will build their nest in
a place like this. (I've seen this happen a few times with carburetor rebuilds.)
What makes crankcase oil black is blow-by due to either worn piston rings, carburetor flooding or the engine running rich on fuel (gas). And if there's gas in the oil (you can smell the presence of gas), this means there's a hole in the diaphragm in the mechanical fuel pump. Being there are no fuel pump repair kits available nowadays, an either good used or new replacement fuel pump is required.
How to Separate Gas from Water - (With the price of gasoline nowadays, this would be a wise thing to do.)
Gasoline and alcohol fuels
are both extremely flammable! Use caution and don't smoke, avoid making sparks
or don't have an open flame exposed when working near or with either of them.
Work in a well-ventilated area, too.
By the way - We've been to a lot of garden tractor pulls through the years and noticed that some pulling tractors leak fuel in places where a fuel leak shouldn't be. Therefore, I think the safety inspections should include checking the fuel hoses for dry-rotting, cracks, fuel leaks, loose fittings, etc. (The tractors should have sturdy wheelie bars, too.) The inspectors should grab hold of the fuel hose(s) with their hand, bend it and slightly jerk on it to check for durability. This is very important. Especially in a kid's class. Don't wait until a small issue becomes a major problem, then turn in to a catastrophe. If a pulling club's sanctioning safety rules are enforced, and pullers would build their tractors right and maintain them regularly, there wouldn't be any injuries, fires, or fear of a fire. Click here to read more about a garden pulling tractor catching on fire.
If an engine won't idle or idles poorly, then the following should be checked and corrected...
Solutions: Remove the high speed air/fuel adjuster and if
it has only one lower hole, carefully enlarge the hole by hand with
a .039" / #60 / 1mm diameter drill bit clamped in a
mini micro pin vise hand drill chuck. This is the perfect
size to enlarge lower the hole on high speed needle adjusters so the engine
will start quicker and idle better. Being the tube is made of soft brass,
there's no need to use an electric drill. Then use [150± psi] compressed
air to clear out any dirt/debris from inside the tube, and then suck through
the tube with your mouth to make sure it's clear and unclogged. If the tube
has two lower through-holes, there's no need to enlarge them because both
of them together makes the opening plenty big. Anyway, if the tube is still
clogged, use a small, bendable steel wire, such as a
bread wrapper twist tie (with the plastic coating stripped
off), to clean out the inside of the tube. Then use the [150± psi]
compressed air to thoroughly clear it out. Suck through the tube with your
mouth to make sure it's clear and unclogged. If performing either of the
above È doesn't clear out the tube,
then acquire a new main high speed air/fuel needle adjuster screw or one
in good condition. But make sure it's the correct adjuster for your particular
carburetor!
Solution: The carburetor
probably has the wrong high speed needle adjuster. If the adjuster has four
tiny holes midway, thoroughly clean the area around the holes with fine emery
cloth or wire wheel, and solder over (block off) two of the holes opposite
of each other with a
soldering gun and
electrical solder. Doing this will create a stronger suction
(vacuum) of fuel through the tube so the engine will idle. Be sure to smooth
the solder (get rid of any lumps) so it won't obstruct the flow of air through
the carburetor.If an engine idles slow when the throttle lever is held to the slowest position by hand, but refuses to idle down on its own, the following may be the causes:
But if an engine idles well, but runs only at higher RPM (up to 3,200 RPM with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet; or 3,600 RPM with an adjustable main jet) with the choke partially closed, or if it surges or hesitates to rev up upon acceleration, this means the engine is running too lean on fuel, and following are the most likely causes: (listed from most common to rare)
Solution: Remove carburetor,
remove float bowl and float, and use a
carburetor jet cleaner wire set or an
oxy-acetylene welding torch tip cleaner to clear out the
dried gas and/or dirt/debris from the main jet.
When cleaning the hole (orifice) in the main
jet, use a wire cleaner of the appropriate size, and be careful not to enlarge
the hole, or the engine may run too rich on fuel! But if
the engine still runs the same after cleaning the main jet, then the hole
(orifice) in the main jet will need to be slightly if enlarged a few thousandths
of an inch to give the engine a little more fuel. After cleaning or enlarging
the hole (orifice) in the main jet, always use [150± psi] compressed
air to clear the debris and/or metal fragments from the carburetor.
Small engine gas tanks needs
a vented cap so outside air can be drawn into the tank as the fuel is depleted.
But if fuel spews out of the air vent hole in the gas cap due to normal
engine vibration when the engine runs at full governored speed, at high RPM
or at wide open throttle, simply install a small piece of foam rubber
(reticulated polyurethane foam) beneath the sealing gasket
inside the gas cap. The foam will absorb the fuel and block it from splashing
out the vent hole, and it'll allow incoming air to pass through it as the
fuel is depleted in the tank.
Solution: If throttle shaft hole in the carburetor body
has a counterbore, install new flat bronze bushing and/or new throttle shaft,
or if no counterbore is present, have throttle shaft hole precision-bored
for installation of a new bronze sleeve bushing.
Click here for more information.
FYI - If you've had your carburetor apart about 10 times, and you found nothing wrong with it, but the engine still runs the same with the same carburetor installed, then the problem obviously isn't in the carburetor. As an older, experienced mechanic once said, "Most carburetor problems are electrical." (Meaning faulty ignition system.) This has proven true more times than I can remember.
Backfiring out the exhaust upon deceleration is normal for virtually all engines since gas is still going through the combustion chamber, compressing in the exhaust and exploding from the exhaust heat. But if an engine constantly backfires out the exhaust at any speeds after running for several minutes, the problem may be...
The Anti-Backfire Fuel Solenoid (and Valve) -
Kohler's Magnum Fuel Solenoid
came on certain models K181, M18 and K582 engines, and virtually all M20
and MV20 engines. The anti-backfire solenoid valve [in the carburetor] shuts
off the engine when the ignition is turned off. The valve only blocks off
the main jet in the carburetor to prevent fuel from entering the combustion
chamber. It does not prevent fuel off from entering the float bowl. The way
the solenoid works is, upon engine shut down, the valve blocks air from entering
the float bowl through the atmospheric vent opening (air passageway from
inside the float bowl area to outside of carburetor; which is where the solenoid
valve is located). When this happens, the engine can't draw fuel, so it shuts
down. The solenoid is energized the entire time the ignition switch is on.
The reason Kohler installed this feature is to prevent the engine from producing
a loud backfire out the muffler when it's shut off. With the solenoid in
working condition and upon engine shut down, no unburned fuel enters the
hot muffler, therefore, no backfire. When the solenoid fails or goes bad,
the engine will not start.
NOTE: Being the solenoid for various M18, M20 and MV20 engines (OEM Kohler part # 25 755 06-S) is no longer available, to convert these engines without use of the solenoid, remove the failed solenoid and valve, cut some short threads in the hole (remove the float bowl first and use compressed air to clear out the metal cuttings), and install a 3/8" Allen set screw in the hole. Don't thread the set screw deep in the hole, or it will block off air from entering the float bowl. Without a solenoid, the engine would require a different ignition switch to shut off the spark. And the engine should be idled down before shutting it off to lessen the chance of a backfire out the muffler.
The fuel solenoid used on newer
Briggs & Stratton, Kohler, etc., engines is located on the bottom of
the float bowl. The spring-loaded plunger in it stops the fuel supply to
the combustion chamber by blocking off the main jet as soon as the ignition
is turned off. With this type of fuel solenoid, the engine will die immediately
when the ignition is turned off. This solenoid also prevents a loud BANG
out the muffler when the ignition is turned off while the engine is hot.
Without it, when the [hot] engine is turned off while throttled up, unburned
gas will continue to pass through the combustion chamber, build up in the
still red-hot muffler where the gas is compressed with hot air, and then
produce a loud BANG out the muffler.
If the solenoid goes bad (it's supposed to make a "click" sound when the ignition is turned on), it can be replaced with a new one, or remove it and simply snip off the protruding pin (plunger rod), and reinstall it. Doing this will allow the engine to draw fuel and run. But remember to idle the engine down for a few minutes each time before shutting it off, or like I said, it may produce a loud BANG out the muffler.
Advertisement:
| If you need any of the parts or services listed below
Ê, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136
USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313
(shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays),
9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When
speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's
shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends (except Holidays).
Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest.
Please click here
to place an order.
Kohler Anti-Backfire Solenoid Kit.
|
How To Loosen a Gummed-Up, Stuck, Corroded or Rusted-In-Place Throttle or Choke Shaft, or Adjusting Screw -
EVAPO-RUST® and
Metal Rescue are very safe products to use and
works wonders to remove rust and loosen virtually any rusted or corroded
metal part! Just soak the carburetor body for 1 hour for light rust and up
to 12 hours for extremely heavy rust. Then use small locking pliers
(Vise Grip) to GENTLY rotate the shaft back and forth
. Don't force it because it could become twisted
and/or break off at the closest plate retaining screw hole! It may rotate
(loosen) just a few thousandths of an inch. After it rotates slightly, spray
it again and gently rotate it again. Eventually, it should rotate more and
swivel 100% free. These products are very safe to use and they work wonders
on virtually anything that's rusted!
Or use a heavy duty bathroom toilet bowl cleaner. Most of them will remove rust and scale. If it reads on the label that it will remove rust, then that's the one to use. Pour the cleaner in a container that's large enough for the carburetor body, and allow it to soak for about 30 minutes and then rinse it off with water. The throttle or choke shaft should swivel with no problems.
GUNK Liquid Wrench® also works wonders to loosen virtually
any rusted or corroded metal part! Just spray the ends of the throttle or
choke shaft, let soak for about 30 minutes or perhaps overnight, then use
small locking pliers
(Vise Grip) to GENTLY rotate the shaft back and forth
. Don't force it because it could become twisted
and/or break off at the closest plate retaining screw hole! It may rotate
(loosen) just a few thousandths of an inch. After it rotates slightly, spray
it again and gently rotate it again. Eventually, it should rotate more and
swivel 100% free.
If the shaft(s) refuse to loosen with either Evapo-Rust, Liquid Wrench or
heavy duty bathroom toilet bowl cleaner, remove the float bowl, float, baffle
shield and O-ring seal. Clamp the carburetor in a bench vice, then use a
propane torch or an
oxy-acetylene torch to LIGHTLY heat the carburetor
body next to the shaft (don't get the carburetor body too hot!), and use
the locking pliers
(Vise Grip) to GENTLY rotate the shaft back and forth
. The shaft should swivel 100% free within a
few seconds of heating. Heating might also work to remove a stuck-in-place
idle speed adjuster screw, idle fuel mixture screw or the main adjuster screw.
Be very gentle rotating a brass screw to loosen it because being brass is
a soft metal, it could snap off! And be careful not to get cast aluminum
too hot, it may crumble or split into pieces! Don't use a torch in an attempt
to remove a stuck main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube) from a carburetor that's
in good condition. Being the aluminum surrounding the main jet/nozzle (emulsion
tube) is thin, it will most likely crumble or split into pieces under the
severe heat, rendering the carburetor useless.
How to Clean the Inside of a Heavily Rusted or Dirty Fuel Tank -
Fill the fuel tank with
EVAPO-RUST® or
Metal Rescue™, leave it for 1 hour for light rust
and up to 12 hours for extremely heavy rust, drain and flush with clean water,
allow to thoroughly dry. These products are very safe to use and they work
wonders on virtually anything that's rusted!
Another method to clean an internally rusted or especially dirty fuel tank, put some small driveway gravel in the tank with water, seal the fuel outlet fitting and gas cap vent holes (make sure the gas cap has a good seal), then literally and vigorously shake the heck out of it! Or for less tiresome labor, put the gravel and water in the tank, seal it up, securely tie a blanket around it and then put it in a clothes dryer or fasten it in an electric paint shaker. Set the dryer on the cold or "No Heat" setting, and let the dryer tumble or paint shaker shake for a couple of hours. When the water is drained and majority of the gravel removed, use a garden water hose to thoroughly clean out inside the tank. It should look new inside. If there's still some rust or dirt/debris in it, repeat the process until all the rust or dirt/debris is broken loose. And despite of what you've probably heard, putting sugar in a fuel tank will NOT ruin the engine! Don't believe in everything you hear. Read about it here: snopes.com: Sugar in the fuel tank. YouTube link: Sugar in Your Gas Engine Fuel Tank.
How to Repair a Hole in a Storage (Fuel) Tank -
If virtually any kind of
ferrous metal
(steel) tank have a rusted or dented hole in it and leaks fuel or liquid,
it can be successfully repaired by using a quality-made
fuel tank sealant. But if the hole is too large for the
sealant, and if the tank is made of steel, a reputable
automotive radiator repair shop can solder a [tin] patch
over the hole. Then ask them to pressure test the tank filled with air submerged
in water to see if the patched hole leaks (bubbles). They usually have
rubber expansion plugs of various sizes to block-off the
inlet and outlet openings or ports.
First of all, I hate when people throw away a reusable throttle
or choke shaft just because it has a broken off screw in it. The only reason
most carburetor manufacturers install soft brass screws in the throttle and
choke shafts for the throttle and choke plates is because the protruding
threaded ends can be easily flared to prevent the screws from loosening and
dislodging from the shaft and becoming lodged between the intake valve and
seat, or from being sucked into the combustion chamber. This saves them money
from not having to use lock washers or liquid threadlocker.
When removing these screws and to prevent from breaking them off, first, grind down the protruding/flared ends with a Dremel or equivalent small rotary grinder chucked with either a very small grinding stone (chainsaw sharpening stone) or an 1/8" high speed steel end mill until the threads are flush with the shaft. Then the screws can be easily removed from the shaft without breaking them off. Be sure to use a quality-made screwdriver with a flat blade and square edge that fits the slot in the screw head perfectly to prevent from distorting or "stripping out" the slot, too. (This is why I use and offer for sale hardened stainless steel screws [with split lock washers]. Unlike [OEM] soft brass screws, stainless steel will not strip out or break off.)
But should a brass screw break off in the throttle or choke shaft without first grinding down the protruding/flared end, sometimes the shaft can be difficult to remove from the carburetor body due to the protruding flared end. Or if the slot in the screw head gets "stripped out." In this case, use the Dremel to grind the flared end of the [broken] screw and/or grind off the head of the screw until it's flush with the shaft. Then the shaft can be removed. Afterwards, the broken screw can be drilled out using a milling machine clamped in a vise with a 1/16" center bit drill to make a small depression in the exact center of the broken screw to prevent "drill bit skating" so either a 5/64", #46 or 2mm drill bit can be used to drill out the rest of the broken screw, and then the threads may need to be straightened/cleaned with a 3-48 UNC taper hand tap. Don't use a center punch on the broken screw. This could bend the shaft, create a crack when straightened, possibly cause it to break later when in use. The throttle and choke shafts in Carter and Kohler carburetors originally come with 3-48 UNC screws. A #3 split lock washer should be used with a 3-48 UNC screw. Should the threaded hole become enlarged from drilling out the broken screw, the hole(s) can be made bigger with a 4-40 UNC tap, and a 4-40 UNC screw with a #4 split lock washer will need to be installed. By the way - liquid threadlocker is not required with a lock washer.
Correct Orientation and
Installation of Throttle Plates -
All factory-made throttle plates, rather automotive, farm tractor engine, small engine, etc., are made oblong 3% and have a slight angle on the sides that seals against the sides of the throttle bore so the engine can idle down. The angle and oblong shape prevents the majority of air from entering the engine in the idle position. It also helps to make a smooth acceleration from idle to full governored speed. To reinstall the throttle plate correctly, on the Carter, Kohler and Walbro carburetors, with the carburetor positioned right side up (float bowl down), the C (Carter), K (Kohler) or W (Walbro) stamped on the throttle plate faces outward and toward your right when facing the carburetor throttle bore, and make sure the throttle plate is centered with the throttle bore in the fully closed position. This is with the idle speed screw backed away from the throttle lever in the fully closed position. If it's installed in reverse or not centered, too much air will by-pass the throttle plate and the engine will not be able to idle at a slow speed. Most aftermarket (Chinese-made) throttle plates don't have an angle, so they can be installed in either direction. But they'll still seal well and the engine should idle down just as well.
Be sure to use a split lock
washer of the correct size under each screw to prevent it from becoming dislodged
from the shaft and possibly being sucked into the combustion chamber, resulting
in a possible bent intake valve or severe damage to the piston, cylinder
head and/or cylinder wall. Return To Previous
Paragraph or Website.
How to Remove the Main Jet/Nozzle (Emulsion Tube) from a Carter/Kohler #26, #28 or #30 Carburetor -
When rebuilding a plain, stock
Carter/Kohler #26, #28 or #30 carburetor, there is really no need to remove
the main jet/nozzle. If the main jet/nozzle will not come out, don't worry
about it. All that has to be done is make sure that the bottom hole and side
holes in the main jet/nozzle are open. To check if the side holes are open,
simply spray WD-40 or aerosol carburetor cleaner through the small hole just
beneath the choke plate and observe if it comes out the main jet/nozzle inside
the throttle bore and float bowl area.
But if the main jet/nozzle is clogged, or if you're boring the venturi to modify the carburetor for high performance use, then the main jet/nozzle must be removed. Before attempting to remove the main jet/nozzle, and if the screwdriver slot is in good condition, then I found the best, easiest and proven way to remove it is by the following process. This method works great most of the time and the main jet/nozzle should loosen with no problems.
by hand (with the screwdriver)
to loosen it. Do not use a wooden handle screwdriver because the handle could
break.
If the above È method still didn't work, then unfortunately, sometimes the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube) will get stuck in place and the screwdriver slot will strip out. (I hate when this happens.) Do not use an Easy Out [Broken] Screw Extractor! With this tool, the tapered shape will force the main jet/nozzle to swell or spread outward (cause it to increase in diameter), and the deeper it goes, it could possibly crack the aluminum tube, rendering the carburetor body useless. The alternative method to remove the main jet/nozzle is to drill it out. This process is performed as follows:
With the main jet/nozzle removed,
use a 3/8-24 UNF plug hand tap to reshape and clean the threads for installation
of another main jet/nozzle. Install a new main jet/nozzle, or a good used
one from a junk carburetor. If the main jet/nozzle in a junk
carburetor is stuck, you can just split the threaded tube with either
a
flat cold chisel,
nut splitter or heat the tube with a
propane torch or an
oxy-acetylene torch until it splits apart. If attempting
to use the
flat cold chisel or
nut splitter, be careful not to damage the main jet/nozzle
itself!
How to Remove the Main Jet/Nozzle (Emulsion Tube) from a Carter #16, #18, #20 or #22 Carburetor for Cleaning -
If the main jet/nozzle in a Carter #16, #18, #20 or #22 carburetor
that's used on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161 or K181 needs
to be removed for cleaning, being this type of nozzle is pressed in the
carburetor body. It removes and reinstalls a lot easier than the above
È main jet/nozzle. The removal and
installation process is as follows:
By the way - as far as I know, new main jet/nozzles for the Carter #16, #18, #20 or #22 carburetor is not available from any source.
How to Remove a Broken-Off High Speed Air/Fuel Mixture Adjuster Needle Screw from a Carter/Kohler Carburetor -
Sometimes when an engine sits with gas in the fuel system, the old, dried gas residue will cause the high speed adjuster to become seized in the carburetor body. And when attempting to remove it, the hollow tube could will break off flush with the carburetor body. (Anything is possible with soft brass and old, dried gas.) Anyway, The removal process of a broken-off main adjuster is as follows:
If you don't feel comfortable removing the broken adjuster yourself, I charge $30.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling, to remove a broken adjuster.
Using Pump Gas with 10% Ethanol Versus 100% Race Gas in a Pulling Tractor -
First of all, in an daily-driven vehicle, gasoline with no lead is hard on soft cast iron exhaust valve seats. A soft cast iron valve seat is one that's been machined directly into an engine block or cylinder head, and it have not been heated-treated or no hardened insert is installed. In a daily-driven automobile, the seat(s) will eventually deteriorate or the metal will literally "wear away" because the absence of lead in gas to provide a protective coating to prevent wear. And being most exhaust valves are made of extremely hardened steel, they're not likely to wear at all. The intake valve and the cast iron seat is not likely to wear as much, if any. And an engine block or cylinder head with heat-treated seats or have hardened steel exhaust valve seat insert(s) installed, they should not wear whatsoever.
Anyway, the 10% ethanol in pump gas (common everyday automotive fuel) lessens exhaust emissions. Plus, the alcohol content boosts the octane, making it somewhat of a high performance fuel. The lead content in race gas (VP, Turbo Blue, Sunoco, Torco, etc.) boosts the octane also, except it's alcohol-free to pass the tech fuel test for tractor pulling. And the valve seat(s) that's ground in a cast iron block in a pulling engine burning 87 octane unleaded regular gas should last a long time, no longer than the tractor runs down the track (2-3 minutes per pull). They're not being driven a long distance, like in a car or truck. Click here to learn how to test for alcohol content in gasoline. (require Adobe Acrobat Reader and use Google Chrome web browser for a faster download of websites with large files.)
Average Octane Rating of Various Fuels -
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By the way - I've never had problems with gas having 10% ethanol in any of my small engines or automotive engines. I don't know why anyone else would. Maybe that's because when one is having problems with a small engine not running right, it's much easier to just blame it on "bad gas" than to look for the real problem elsewhere with the engine. Remember - it takes three things to make an internal combustion engine run: carburetion, compression and ignition. A professional, thorough and energetic mechanic don't blame the problem on one thing and overlook the other two. Unless of course, he's lazy and looking to make some quick money by doing an easy fix.
NOTE: The main jet (and fuel inlet hole) should not be enlarged for alcohol-free, high octane racing gas, such as VP, Turbo Blue, Sunoco, Premium gas, or gas with 10% ethanol, because these fuels require the same air/fuel mixture ratio as for ordinary, low octane automotive gas. The only time the main jet and fuel inlet holes needs to enlarged is when burning E85 or methanol fuels. If the main jet hole (orifice) is intentionally enlarged for gas, the engine will run too rich on fuel, and there'll be no way to lean it out. Click here to learn how to test for alcohol content in gasoline. (require Adobe Acrobat Reader and use Google Chrome web browser for a faster download of websites with large files.)
Using
E85
Fuel in a Garden Tractor or Lawn & Garden Equipment -
What is E85? E85 is the term for motor fuel blends (special blend of automotive fuel) of 85% ethanol (corn alcohol AKA "moonshine") and 15% gasoline. E85 is an alternative fuel as defined by the U.S. Department of Energy. Besides its superior performance characteristics, ethanol burns cleaner than pure gasoline; it is a completely renewable, domestic, environmentally friendly fuel that enhances the nation's economy and energy independence. The addition of ethanol boosts octane and, because it is an oxygenate, ethanol contributes to a more complete fuel combustion resulting in reduced emissions of carbon monoxide and other ozone-forming emissions. Ethanol also degrades quickly in water and, therefore, poses much less risk to the environment than an oil or gasoline spill. To learn more about E85, visit this website: National Ethanol Vehicle Coalition (http://www.e85fuel.com). Click here to learn how to test for alcohol content in gasoline. (require Adobe Acrobat Reader and use Google Chrome web browser for a faster download of websites with large files.)
Fueling with E85 is not only beneficial to the environment, you'll most likely see a small increase in performance, which will be accompanied by a small decrease in fuel economy. On average, when an engine is powered by E85, the engine will have about 5% more horsepower and a 10% drop in fuel-efficiency. The added power comes from ethanol's higher (105) octane rating. The fuel economy decrease comes from the fact that ethanol has a lower energy content than gasoline, which means the engine will have to use more of it.
E85 is available from most gas pumps at about 15% less than 91 octane. It can be used in virtually any gas engine fuel system, new or old. The only problem is, the rubber-like fuel hose, seals and gaskets in the fuel system might deteriorate due to the alcohol content in E85. Click here to learn how to test for alcohol content in gasoline. (require Adobe Acrobat Reader and use Google Chrome web browser for a faster download of websites with large files.) But if the fuel system has neoprene rubber or synthetic rubber parts, there should be no problems. E85 works great for competition pulling, general lawn use or for any small engine equipment. It'll create less carbon build up in the combustion chamber, too. I've reworked lots of carburetors for people who use their garden tractor just to mow grass with and they love how the E85 produces more power. Their only complaint is the engine burns more fuel. But that's the sacrifice for more power. If an engine is converted correctly, E85 should cause no problems with engine wear or fuel system deterioration. Basically, all that needs to be done to the engine is the main jet and fuel inlet (float valve) hole in the carburetor will need to be made about 80% bigger and the ignition timing will need to be advanced about 150% more than stock. If the main jet isn't enlarged, the engine probably won't run on E85, or if it does, it will run too lean on fuel, overheat the engine, possibly damage the valves, piston and piston rings because of the excessive operating temperature. And if the timing isn't advanced enough to thoroughly burn the [slower burning] E85 fuel, some of it will exit out the exhaust unburned, with no increase in power.
No special motor oil is required with E85. But with prolonged idling, the oil may need to be changed more often. The 20% increase in the main jet and fuel inlet holes, and ignition timing applies to virtually all small engine carburetors and engines, despite the make or manufacturer.
E85 can be purchased at select gas stations in the U.S. It cost less per gallon than regular unleaded gasoline. And an engine will burn about 20% more fuel than gas with E85, but it'll also produce about 10% more power, operate cooler, have a cleaner combustion chamber and the engine will last longer.
On the K161 and K181 Kohler K-series and Magnum engines, with the Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetor, the hole (orifice) in the main jet for 100% gasoline measures exactly 3/64" (.046") in diameter. To convert these carburetors for use with E85, enlarge the main jet and fuel inlet (float valve) holes with a 5/64" or #47 (.078") drill bit. NOTE: Drill the fuel inlet from the inside out (opposite flow of fuel) to prevent a burr that may cause the carburetor to leak fuel or flood out. For accuracy, use a small metal lathe to drill the hole bigger. The ignition timing will also need to be advanced to 24º BTDC so the engine will take full advantage and make maximum power of the slower burning, higher octane fuel. Then with the engine running at 3,600 RPM, adjust the high-speed fuel mixture needle valve so the engine runs smooth.
On the K241-K341 single- and twin-cylinder Kohler K-series and Magnum engines with the older Carter/Kohler carburetors, the factory hole (orifice) in the main jet size for 100% gasoline measures exactly 1/16" (.0625") in diameter. To convert these carburetors for use with E85, enlarge the main jet and fuel inlet (float valve) holes with a 3/32" or #42 (.094") drill bit. NOTE: Drill the fuel inlet from the inside out (opposite flow of fuel) to prevent a burr that may cause the carburetor to leak fuel or flood out. For accuracy, use a small metal lathe to drill the hole bigger. The ignition timing will also need to be advanced to 24º BTDC so the engine will make full advantage and make maximum power of the slower burning, higher octane fuel. Then with the engine running at 3,600 RPM, adjust the high-speed air/fuel mixture needle valve until the engine runs smoothly.
To convert virtually any 4-cycle engine to run well and produce full power on E85 fuel...
When advancing the ignition timing past
24º± BTDC, and if the camshaft has a working automatic compression
release mechanism, the compression release will need to be disabled (tied
down) with a nylon zip tie or baling wire, or removed entirely. The reason
being, with the excessive advanced timing, the compression release will open
the exhaust valve when spark occurs, and the engine will pop out the exhaust,
not be able to start, or be hard to start. Without a compression release,
to make the engine easier to crank over and start under full compression,
a high torque starter motor with separate starter and ignition switches will
need to be used to prevent engine "kick back." If the engine
"kicks back" too many times when attempting to start it, this could bend
or break the starter motor armature shaft, or break the aluminum
casing!
How to Convert a Briggs & Stratton 16hp, 18hp or 20hp Opposed Twin Cylinder Engine for Use With Methanol Fuel - (This is recommended for competition pulling only and not for general lawn and garden work.)
For competition pulling only, the Briggs & Stratton 16hp,
18hp or 20hp opposed twin cylinder engines can be converted for use with
methanol fuel. As for the carburetor, there is two ways to make this happen.
The hole in the main jet for gasoline is .036" in diameter. This hole can
either be drilled out to .078" (5/64" or 2mm), or it can be drilled out slightly
larger and then the same main fuel adjuster for the bottom of Carter/Kohler
carburetors can be installed to "fine tune" the air/fuel mixture at higher
RPM. Also, the fuel inlet hole (float needle valve hole) will need to be
increased to about twice its size. The OEM B&S float valve can be (re)used.
And being methanol requires more fuel delivery than gas, the diaphragms and
springs in the integrated fuel pump will need to be removed, the OEM fuel
pump pulse port on both the carburetor and engine block will need to be plugged,
and a low pressure electric fuel pump will need to be used. The methanol
will flow directly through the OEM fuel pump internals.
And
to full take advantage of the slower-burning methanol fuel, the ignition
timing will need to be advanced more than the OEM setting. The OEM timing
for B&S engines is fixed at 11º BTDC. For methanol, the timing will
need to be advanced to 17º BTDC. To advance the timing for methanol
fuel, a special-made 3/16" square
offset flywheel key must be used. Offset flywheel keys
are originally made for racing go-karts and Junior Dragsters with the 5hp
Briggs & Stratton engine. They come in 2º, 4º, 6º and
8º increments. Do a
Google search for offset flywheel keys. Use the 6º
offset key for a setting of 17º BTDC (11º + 6º = 17º).
And for an older engine with points and condenser, it's highly recommended
to install a new B&S Magnetron™ electronic ignition module or a
universal electronic transistorized
ignition module for more stable timing. And as usual, the crankcase oil
will need to be changed more often when burning methanol fuel.
The Advantages of Using 100% Methanol Fuel -
If the carburetor have been reworked and the ignition timing are adjusted and set correctly, methanol can produce up to 13% increase in horsepower. If the fuel is set slightly rich (which it should be), there's no need to constantly adjust the carburetor settings and/or ignition timing to compensate for changes in hot or cold weather conditions. Because of its low volatile octane rating (ability to burn quick), methanol shouldn't be used for general lawn use. It's primarily a high performance fuel only, and should be used only in a high performance engine. Starting fluid (ether) or gasoline may need to be sprayed or squirted into the carburetor to get the engine started in cooler weather, though. And, faster gearing may be needed because of the increase in horsepower and torque.
It may take some experimentation to get a particular tractor to perform on methanol. Just because most experienced pullers get their tractors hooked-up good on it is no reason anyone else can't. Once one do get their tractor to perform on methanol, they'll be reluctant to go back to gas. By the way - methanol can be purchased at most places that sell racing fuels. And it cost less than 1/3 of racing gas fuels (per gallon).
Using Methanol in a Garden Pulling Tractor -
Methanol, also known as wood alcohol, is made primary from natural gas. And is the best high performance fuel available. Far better than any expensive "racing" petroleum fuel. It'll help any 4-stroke high performance engine produce more power and run much cooler. Methanol is a safe fuel to use, too. But if anyone feels uncomfortable using or converting an engine for use of methanol, please consult with a professional engine builder.
Methanol will mix equally with water and it evaporates quickly. The important thing to remember when storing methanol is the keep it in an air tight container in a dry place. Because it can easily draw moisture when stored for a long period, especially in a metal container. (Unlike plastic, steel gets cold, which draws condensation.) If one suspects that water had gotten into the methanol, it can be separated easily by using chamois leather. The chamois will absorb the water and allow the methanol to pass through. If gas has 10% alcohol, then the alcohol will mix the water with the gas and it will appear to have no water at all. The only way to separate the water from the gas and alcohol is through a chamois. Again, the chamois will absorb the water and allow the fuels to drain through.
If your club's sanctioning rules say that the methanol fuel must be able to pass a water test, then just use 100% pure methanol with no oil. (To some clubs, oil is also known as a "contaminant.") Pure methanol will remain clear in water, but turn cloudy in water when mixed with oil. And it's important that the high speed air/fuel mixture screw on the carburetor be richened slightly, to keep from burning the piston (because of the lack of oil in the fuel). Click here to learn how to test for alcohol content in gasoline. (require Adobe Acrobat Reader and use Google Chrome web browser for a faster download of websites with large files.)
Methanol has absolutely no effect on rubber, neoprene rubber or OEM carburetor or fuel system parts nor does it get stale like gas does. (Don't just theorize about such things, believe in myths, rumors or what some [delusional] people/mechanics/technicians tell you. Perform a scientific test to prove to yourself and debunk the myths. I always do.) But methanol will corrode aluminum as plain water does if it is not drained and allowed to evaporate from the fuel system over an extended length of time. After the methanol is drained and flushed out of the fuel system, motor oil should be applied to the metal parts to protect the surfaces from oxidation.
Because methanol will ignite only in a narrow range of high temperatures, it is less likely to catch on fire should an accident occur. If methanol does catch on fire, unlike gasoline, water can extinguish the flames.
Methanol burns much slower than the highest octane gasoline. (It has about 135 octane rating.) Therefore, the ignition timing must be advanced more than for gas when burning methanol. If the timing isn't advanced enough, some of the methanol will go unburned and little will be gained. Modifications to the point lobe on the camshaft may need to be made in order to achieve the full ignition timing setting. Methanol also require a hotter spark. Therefore, a high-output/performance ignition coil is needed, along with a wide spark plug gap (.060"). NOTE - Never run over-advanced ignition timing with any petroleum-based fuel (gas) just to try to get "more power." All that does is seriously overheat the engine and could weaken (collapse) the piston rings, shrink the piston, warp the cylinder head and exhaust valve and it could even cause the engine block to crack.
As methanol burns, it produces tremendous combustion chamber pressures under
wide-open throttle conditions, especially in engines that's been ported,
with oversized valves and a big cam, and even more so during cooler weather.
To prevent possible cylinder/crankcase separation or an "engine explosion,"
the cylinder must be securely "strapped" or fastened to the crankcase. Especially
on K301 engines and up. So strap it now, or scrap it later! Methanol
works best in a high compression engine, too.
"Strapping" the cylinder to the crankcase is when a flat piece of heavy steel or aluminum is across the cylinder head and fastened by means of two minimum 1/2" diameter threaded rods, one located just behind the flywheel and the other on the PTO end of the block. It keeps the cylinder from literately breaking loose from the crankcase because of a thin cylinder wall and/or due to extremely high compression.
Moreover, if you had a K241 block bored for a K301 piston, or a K301 block bored for a K321 piston, and if the tractor is used to push snow, definitely strap the cylinder to the crankcase! Because it now has a much thinner cylinder wall, and the cold winter air is more dense (like the air is thicker or there's more of it). Dense air will build up the compression pressure within the combustion chamber, causing the engine to produce more power. But what also happens is at full throttle, this high compression is pushing upward on the cylinder head, and pulling upward on the cylinder wall. And sometimes the cylinder wall will break, ruining the whole engine. I know, I've seen this happen to a good engine. No joke.
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contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia,
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Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am
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Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
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Map of 1501 West Old Plank
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Cylinder Restraint Strap Kit for Kohler K241-K341/M10-M16 K-series and Magnum Engines. Professionally made. This setup is easy to remove and reinstall when it comes time to freshen the engine. It looks nice and very strong. Prevents cylinder/crankcase separation (engine explosion) during cool weather when cylinder is bored thin for an excessively oversize piston. A must for methanol burning engines. NOTE: An additional 3/8" threaded hole may need to be made for mounting of brace on PTO end of block.
|
Methanol fuel produces a "cooling effect" as it enters an engine at high velocity (wide open throttle). And, it's a clean burning fuel, it won't carbon up the combustion chamber, foul-out the spark plug or even harm the ozone layer. The crankcase motor oil may need to be changed periodically though.
Here's another thing concerning methanol fuel - when methanol evaporates, it leaves behind very small particles of white, flaky residue deposits in the entire fuel system, which is completely normal and unavoidable. These deposits can clog and ruin a good fuel filter, but will not harm any other parts of the fuel system or the engine. So to keep from having any [future] fuel flow problems and help prevent from losing a good pull, don't install a fuel filter in the system to trap any dirt/debris, because it will also trap the white, flaky residue deposits! Instead, strain the fuel through a filtering material, such as a coffee filter, paint filter, fine mesh screen wire, clean cloth shop towel or a fine woven fabric window curtain, while it's poured into the fuel tank. Place the filtering material in a large funnel, and pour the fuel through it into the tank. The filtering material should be thoroughly cleaned for use next time. But first, make sure the fuel tank and the rest of the fuel system is perfectly clean, and kept clean! And if there are any very small particles of dirt/debris present in the fuel, they should pass through the carburetor, being the fuel passages have been enlarged for the methanol.
Fuel filters can only filter so much of a grain of dirt/debris/grit. Anything smaller will pass through, most of time causing no harm. Sometimes a hair will pass through a wire mesh fuel filter, lodging in the float valve, keeping it from fully closing because the hair can't get past the bend. It'll cause the carburetor to over-flow and flood in a short time if the fuel tank is higher than the carburetor (gravity feed system). On certain small engines, the flooding gas will seep down into the motor oil, ruining it. Briggs & Stratton riding mower engines are notorious for this. All that can be done to fix this is clean out the carburetor and hope it doesn't happen again, or take the time to filter the gas before it's poured in the tank. And if there's enough fresh gas in the crankcase, sometimes the crankcase will explode if the engine backfires through the carburetor. If the crankcase breather is connected to the carburetor or air cleaner assembly, the flame from the backfire will travel through the breather cover and into the crankcase. (I've also seen this happen a few times.)
Most garden tractor carburetors can be easily converted for methanol use. The main thing to keep in mind is that methanol require about twice the volume of fuel than gas. (Approximately a 5-6:1 ratio for methanol versus 10-12:1 ratio for gas). To run methanol, the main jet and fuel inlet (float valve) holes will need to be enlarged to about 95% of their original size.
High compression engines naturally operate at a higher operating temperature. When using low octane gasoline (Regular Unleaded or 87 octane rating) in a high compression engine, the octane of the gas is reduced by 1 point for every 10º above the normal operating combustion chamber temperature that it is formulated for. This will cause the gas to burn faster. When trying to restart a high compression overheated engine on low octane gas, what is happening is the gas is burning quickly and entirely in the combustion chamber, and producing expanding heat before the piston reaches TDC, driving the piston back down in the cylinder before it reaches TDC. This is the cause of detonation (pounding of the piston) and it'll cause the engine to "grunt" or momentarily make the crankshaft rotate in the opposite direction (but the weight of the flywheel prevents this from happening). Overheating could also crack the [cast iron] cylinder, shrink the piston, burn a hole in the piston (detonation) and weaken the expansion of the piston rings. Methanol fuel has an octane rating of 135. This is why methanol works best in a high performance, high compression engine.
White deposits on the exhaust valve and in the combustion chamber is normal with gas fuels. Due to the lesser amount of gas in E-85, it leaves behind very little deposits, and methanol doesn't leave any deposits because there's no carbon in the fuel. Only fossil fuels have carbon in them and that's what's left behind in the combustion chamber and on the exhaust valve.
Did you know that high octane gas or "race car gas" (approximately 109-110 octane) is much better than any filling station pump gas when used in a high performance engine? Higher octane gas burns slow, producing more heat, thus allowing an engine to develop more power. Because heat is how an engine produces power. Methanol fuel produces even more heat than gas does.
Methanol never gets stale while setting around. It's burning factors (the qualities that produce power) remain intact until all of the fuel evaporates. Gasoline on the other hand, as it gets old or stale, it's burning factors is the first thing to go. Unlike methanol, eventually all that is left of the old gas is some "foul smelling residue." Methanol never smells "old" or "stale."
If the air/fuel ratio isn't properly adjusted with both methanol or gasoline, possible engine damage may result. If either fuel is leaned-out too much, possible piston to cylinder wall scuffing, scoring or even seizure may result. If methanol is ran too rich, the oil on the cylinder wall may be diluted, causing excessive wear to the piston, rings and sometimes the cylinder wall. And if gas is ran too rich, loss in power may result with possible spark plug fouling. (Methanol is more forgiving to an engine than gas.)
A high performance cam, larger piston, big valves and a bigger carburetor will undoubtedly help gas-burning engines develop more power. But only from the use of the parts themselves. Methanol on the other hand, will help give an engine a little more boost. Simply from the fuel itself.
Engines will consume less fuel burning gas than methanol. Something good for gas and not for methanol. Which is why methanol is not used on the open market in daily driven automobiles.
Some racing gasolines could eventually cause an engine to wear prematurely when used under high performance conditions (and if the ignition timing is over-advanced). Piston wear, piston ring expansion failure, valve warping, even motor oil breakdown could result over time due to the high operating temperatures of gas in a high compression engine. (Especially on air cooled engines with no cooling system.)
An engine runs cooler burning methanol than gas. The reason why? Approximately twice the amount of methanol fuel enters an engine. There's more fuel per parts of air. As a result, this allows an engine to operate at a much cooler temperature. Gasoline on the other hand, runs less fuel per parts of air. Therefore, it's a "lean" burning fuel. Gas allows a high-compression engine to operate at a higher temperature. Which in turn could cause premature engine wear. Simply because too much heat itself will cause a good engine to wear out faster than anything else.
For more information on methanol, click here: Erowid Alcohol Vault : Methanol Material Safety Data Sheet and Race fuel - Alcohol fuels.
100% ethanol (AKA moonshine) and denatured alcohol burns pretty much the same as 100% methanol. There's very little difference between these alcohol fuels. If an engine is converted correctly for use with these fuels, it will produce the same amount of power, run cooler and last longer.
By the way - If you've ever wondered if moonshine runners burned moonshine in their cars, well, they probably didn't. Because first of all, they needed to make money off the moonshine that they made. And second, the engine would need to be converted and car modified for use with 100% pure alcohol so it would burn thoroughly and it wouldn't cause harm to the engine at higher RPM. This means the hole in the fuel inlet seat and main jet hole (orifice) in the carburetor would need to be drilled twice their original size, a bigger fuel line would need to be installed for more fuel flow, a bigger electric fuel pump would also need to be installed to pump twice the volume of fuel from the tank to the carburetor, a high-secondary voltage ignition system would need to be installed with wider spark plug gaps, and the ignition timing would need to be advanced to 38º BTDC to thoroughly burn the alcohol. And after all this, the car would burn TWICE as much fuel resulting in VERY poor mileage. And they couldn't stop and fill up along the way with more moonshine while the cops were on their tail! (Gasoline would be a lot more economical!)
On the K90, K141, K160, K161, K181/M8 Kohler K-series and Magnum engines, with the Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetor, the hole (orifice) in the main jet size for 100% gasoline measures exactly 3/64" (.046") in diameter. To convert these carburetors for use with methanol, enlarge the main jet and fuel inlet (float valve) holes with a 3/32" (.094") diameter drill bit. NOTE: Drill through the fuel inlet hole from inside out (opposite flow of fuel) to prevent a burr that may prevent the float valve from sealing, which could cause the carburetor to leak fuel or flood. The ignition timing will also need to be advanced to 30º BTDC so the engine will take full advantage and make maximum power of the slower burning, higher octane fuel. Then with the engine running at 3,600± RPM, adjust the high-speed fuel mixture needle valve so the engine runs smooth.
On the K241-K341 single- and twin-cylinder Kohler K-series and Magnum engines Carter/Kohler carburetors with the fully adjustable high speed main jet, the factory hole (orifice) in the main jet size for 100% gasoline measures exactly 1/16" (.0625") in diameter. To convert these carburetors for use with methanol, enlarge the hole in the fuel inlet (float valve) with a 7/64" (.109") drill bit, and then enlarge the hole (orifice) in the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube) with a #32 or 3mm drill bit. NOTE: Drill through the fuel inlet hole from inside out (opposite flow of fuel) to prevent a burr that may prevent the float valve from sealing, which could cause the carburetor to leak fuel or flood. The ignition timing will also need to be advanced to 30º BTDC so the engine will take full advantage and make maximum power of the slower burning, higher octane fuel. Then if it's a stock engine, with the engine running at 3,600± RPM, adjust the high-speed air/fuel mixture needle valve until the engine runs smoothly.
To convert virtually any 4-cycle engine to run well and produce full power on 100% methanol or denatured alcohol fuels...
When advancing the ignition timing past
24º± BTDC, and if the camshaft has an automatic compression release,
it will need to be removed because the spark will occur when the exhaust
valve opens slightly to relieve some of the compression, possibly preventing
the engine from starting or making it hard to start. And to make the engine
easier to crank over easier and start under full compression, a high torque
starter motor with separate starter and ignition switches to prevent "kick
back" will need to be used.
Testing Methanol Fuel for Contaminants -
Methanol by itself is clear, like water. To test
it for an added lubricant or water, pour a small amount of methanol in a
clean, clear capped glass container with a small amount of oil or water,
then shake it. If it appears "cloudy," it's contaminated. You can also smell
methanol for contaminants.
It's a good idea to use a small amount of special upper cylinder lubricant (such as Lucas Oil Upper Cylinder Lubrication, M2 Upper Lube & Lead Additive, Marvel Mystery Oil, etc.) mixed with methanol to prevent possible piston to cylinder scoring and to help lubricate the valve stems and guides. If a lubricant isn't used and if methanol is ran too lean (especially in cool weather), this could ruin a good high-dollar piston and possibly score the cylinder wall. Methanol must be ran rich if no lubricant is mixed with it. But some sanctioning pulling rules don't allow lubricant to be mixed with methanol because it boosts the octane and will likely fail in a fuel test, which means the tractor will be disqualified after competing. The more oil that is added, the higher the octane will be. When pulling under rules that require 100% methanol fuel, and if a tractor have been using methanol with a lubricant, be sure to completely drain and flush the entire fuel system. Use [150± psi] compressed air to clear out the fuel tank, fuel hose, fuel pump, carburetor, etc. Because any trace amount of lubricant remaining will mix with the methanol and be cause for failure in a fuel test. Some new neoprene rubber fuel hoses contains oil. This means if 100% methanol is supposed to be used, the fuel hose must be flushed with a solvent (paint thinner), then use [150± psi] compressed air to clear it out, and then allow it to thoroughly air-dry. |
 |
I remember when gasoline for various automotive engines were for the
following compression ratios: Anything up to 9.25:1, it was safe to use
Regular
gasoline (low octane); between 9.25:1-10.50:1 required
Premium
or
High Test
gasoline
(mid octane); and anything above 10.50:1 required
Ethyl
gasoline (high octane). Until the late 1960s, most Chevrolet small block
muscle car engines had a compression ratio as high as 11.25:1, and certain
Chevrolet 427 big block muscle car engines had a compression ratio as high
as 14:1! (That was the good ol' days!) I'd also like to share this old gas
station joke:
Car owner that just pulled up to the pump: "Fill 'er up... Ethyl!"
Gas
station attendant: "I'll fill up your car, but don't call me Ethel."
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Using a Gravity Feed Fuel Flow System -
When burning gas only (not methanol) and if an engine is going to turn no faster than 4,000± RPM (governed limit; the factory setting of maximum RPM for virtually all small gas engines, including all of Kohler engines is 3,600), then a gravity feed fuel system with the fuel tank positioned higher than the carburetor, stock fuel fittings and fuel hose should work fine. (Gravity feed is defined as when the fuel is drawn by gravity; the lowest part of the fuel tank is positioned higher than the carburetor, and there's no fuel pump involved.) If the fuel tank sets higher than the carburetor, and if a large inside diameter fuel hose and fittings are used, and if the float level is set a little high, then a gravity feed fuel system should work great for a stock engine turning no more than 4,000 RPM.
Information About the Vacuum Operated, Pulse-Type Fuel Pump -
All vacuum-operated, pulse-type
fuel pumps operate off of the crankcase air pressure. The moving piston(s)
inside the crankcase of the engine create the pulsating effect of air to
activate the pump's diaphragm. And all pulse-type fuel pumps come with three
fittings - one that connects to the engine crankcase, and an IN and OUT fuel
hose fittings. It should say on the body of the pump where each fitting connects
to. But if it doesn't, then the fitting coming from the center of the pump
connects to the crankcase vent. And the other two fittings, one connect to
the fuel tank and the other connects to the carburetor.
A pulse-type, mechanical or electric fuel pump will guarantee that the carburetor will not starve for fuel about halfway down the track. Also, carefully enlarge the fuel inlet valve seat hole to 7/64" (.109"). This will allow more delivery of fuel in the float bowl so the engine will not starve for fuel halfway down the track. Be sure to set the float a little high too, so as it drops down, the fuel inlet valve will open more, allowing more fuel to be deposited in the float bowl.
If an engine in an ATV or UTV sputters and/or dies after going over rough terrain, this could be caused by a defective pulse-type fuel pump. Overtime, the fuel pump bodies become warped and oil in the crankcase is preventing air from working the diaphragm the way it should. If the engine has a 12 volt electrical system with a charging system, it'll be better to install a low pressure electric fuel pump. These rarely give trouble.
To test a plastic body pulse-type fuel pump, first check that the fuel hose between the fuel tank and fuel pump is open and unobstructed, or if it has dry-rot cracks, which can cause a vacuum leak. To test it, disconnect the fuel hose from the fuel pump and wrap a shop/business towel or clean rag around an air blower nozzle and then insert the nozzle with the rag or towel in the fuel tank filler neck. Apply light air pressure in the tank. If fuel comes out of the fuel hose, then it's open. After that, reconnect the fuel hose to the fuel pump. To test the fuel pump itself, first check the hose that connects the fuel pump to the engine crankcase to see if it has a kink in it or if it has dry-rot cracks, which can also cause a vacuum leak. If it's in good condition, then the final step is to disconnect the fuel hose from the carburetor and with adequate amount of fuel in the fuel tank, crank the engine and at the same time observe how much fuel is being pumped out of the pump. If there seems to be adequate amount of fuel coming from it, hold your finger over the end of the line and while still cranking the engine, it should build up a small amount of pressure. If none or very little fuel comes out of the pump, then it's bad and needs replacing.
When a pulse-type fuel pump fails to pump fuel, in most cases, the body of the fuel pump will become warped, causing a vacuum leak either from within or from the outside, preventing the diaphragm from pulsating. If the diaphragm is still flexible, chances are, the pump can be repaired by resurfacing the body halves on a wide, flat belt or disc sander to remove any warpage and restore flatness. (Be sure to use eye protection!) If the body halves is warped, the sander will make contact where the screw holes are, but not between the screw holes.
If the bottom of the fuel tank is lower than the carburetor, then the engine definitely needs a fuel pump. If the engine didn't originally come with a fuel pump, and has no provision for a mechanical fuel pump and/or no 12 volt power output/supply to use an electric fuel pump, here's how to install a universal pulse-type fuel pump on virtually any small gas engine:
Locate a place that's easily
accessible on the engine crankcase, intake manifold or valve cover (OHV engines),
or use the mechanical fuel pump block-off plate (if equipped) to install
an 1/8" NPT threads x 1/4" barbed end [fuel] fitting to serve as the vacuum-pulse
port. Make sure the fitting won't interfere with anything inside. Don't
install the fitting in the crankcase breather cover on a flathead engine.
It don't hold crankcase vacuum. The plate behind it does.
(with a small amount
of oil in the hose, too) created by the movement of the piston(s) that will
be activating the diaphragm within the pump.
What Exactly Is "Vapor Lock"?
Vapor lock only happens with certain older carbureted cars and trucks with a mechanical fuel pump that's fastened to the engine block. Vapor lock occurs when the [metal] gas line is too close to the hot exhaust, and when the vehicle is in slow traffic, the fuel is moving very slow in the line. Due to extreme heat from the exhaust and on a hot day, and the fan blade not blowing that much air past the exhaust, sometimes the heat will cause the gas to boil, forming air bubbles or air pockets, and the fuel vaporizes, and then the fuel pump can't pump vaporized fuel (air). So as soon as the carburetor runs out of fuel, the engine stalls. The fuel pump will "lock" with vapors trapped inside it. When the vehicle cools, incoming gas will force the air out of the fuel pump and through the carburetor, allowing the fuel to return to the pump, and then the engine will start and run again. This don't happen nowadays with automobiles having fuel injection because the entire fuel hose is pressurized.
But on lawn tractors or garden tractors, the fuel hose is located nowhere near the hot exhaust. What is really happening when the engine stalls, is either the fuel system is dirty, the ignition coil is bad, or there's insufficient valve to lifter clearance.
Using a Mechanical Fuel Pump -
When running a pulling engine at high RPM or wide open throttle, sometimes the engine will starve for fuel with gravity feed fuel system. Therefore, Kohler's camshaft-driven mechanical fuel pump or a low-pressure electric fuel pump should be used to guarantee that the carburetor will receive plenty of fuel at all times. The mechanical pump should be used on a pulling tractor when burning gas only. They're not capable of delivering sufficient amount of fuel with E85 or methanol at high RPM like an electric pump will.
Mechanical plastic and metal body fuel pumps are very durable
and they work pretty well, for both lawn machines and stock competition pulling
with gas. The diaphragm or gaskets rarely go bad in the mechanical fuel pump.
It's usually one or both of the poppet valves that goes bad. They can become
dislodged, or rusted or corroded from long term water contamination. If the
poppet valves are in good condition and snug in their counterbores, but if
the pump doesn't pump fuel, then in most cases, the fuel pump body halves
become warped, creating a vacuum leak at the diaphragm. The pump body halves
can be resurfaced on a wide, flat
belt- or disc-sander to remove warpage and restore flatness,
and then after reassembly, the pump should work as good as new. (I use
the side of the abrasive cutting wheel on my
14" chop saw. Works great! Be sure to use eye protection!)
After resurfacing, use a
deburring tool to get rid of any melted plastic burrs and/or
sharp edges, and thoroughly clean all parts with [150± psi] compressed
air before reassembly! If this doesn't fix the problem, then perhaps a new
or used reconditioned pump will need to be acquired.
To test the fuel pump for fuel flow off the engine, submerge the inlet port in a container of clean (filtered) cleaning solvent (paint thinner) and then work the lever quickly by hand. The solvent should squirt forcibly out the outlet port. If the pump doesn't start pumping right away, submerge the entire fuel pump in the solvent and work the lever to prime it and remove the air internally. After checking to see how well it works, to test the psi, a low-pressure gauge can be connected to the outlet port. The pressure should be 1-½ to 2 psi. To increase the pressure to about 2-½ psi (maximum), disassemble the pump and physically stretch the diaphragm pressure spring until it's about 3/4" longer than original length. To increase the volume (more fuel flow), the stroke of the fuel pump lobe on the camshaft would need to be lengthened approximately 1/8" by welding it up on the high side and reground deeper on the low side. Or better yet, use an electric fuel pump.
The only problem when using a gasket to fasten the fuel pump to the block is, being the mounting flange is so thin, it will warp over time, causing an oil leak. (This happens to every pump I've seen.) To fix this, and to [possibly] prevent an oil leak in the future, completely disassemble the pump, remove the lever and arm (be careful not to lose the spring) and use a wide, flat belt- or disc-sander to resurface the mounting flange on a wide, flat belt- or disc-sander to remove warpage and restore flatness. The trick to reinstalling the spring is, reinstall the arm, lever and support pin in the pump body first, then install the spring with a small, flat screwdriver. (The pumps with the manual fuel primer lever is harder to reassemble.) To keep the flange from warping again, fasten it directly to the block using only Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant and use no gasket, or use a very thin gasket. Finally, install a flat washer (and of course, a split lock washer) under each mounting screw head to distribute even pressure on the flange and to prevent the screws from loosening. By the way - I've always preferred to use Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant for three reasons: Gaskets don't always seal the irregularities and imperfections between mating metals, especially thin metal covers; being it's an adhesive, it bonds parts together, forming a leak-proof seal; and being it's clear, it makes for a clean and professional-looking repair job. When applied sparingly, it can't be easily seen or noticed between the parts.
The purpose of Kohler's older
and now obsolete mechanical fuel pump with the hand lever (thin metal
piece that hangs down under the pump body) is for when the engine runs out
of fuel, after refilling the fuel tank, it takes less time to manually prime
the fuel pump with the lever by hand to refill the carburetor than it would
to crank the engine so the fuel pump can draw fuel from the tank and deliver
it to the carburetor. This was a nice feature, especially on engines with
a rope or rewind starter! It also saved wear and tear on the starter motor
from cranking for a long time, which could burn up the starter or run down
the battery.
FYI - All of Kohler's K241-K341
and the K361 engines come with a lobe on the cam to activate the mechanical
fuel pump. The fuel pump installs with the lever positioned upwards. And
if there's no provision for mounting a mechanical fuel pump, a 3/4" center
hole and two small threaded bolt holes will need to be drilled, and the mounting
holes tapped for 1/4-20 UNC threads. Use a fuel pump mounting gasket as a
templet.
Troubleshooting a Faulty Pulse-Type or Mechanical Fuel Pump -
If an engine sits for about one week or longer, if the fuel in the carburetor evaporates and it's hard to start, or fuel must be squirted into the carburetor to get the engine started, then this means that the pulse-type or mechanical fuel pump may be bad. The inlet valve in the pump is leaking, which is allowing the fuel to drain back into the fuel tank with the engine off. As the pump tries to syphon fuel from the tank to refill the carburetor, it's unable because the inlet valve is bad. Solution: a new fuel pump will need to be installed. When a vacuum or mechanical fuel pump quits working, below are the causes:
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Advertisement:
| If you need any of the parts or services listed below
Ê, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136
USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313
(shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays),
9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When
speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's
shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends (except Holidays).
Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest.
Please click here
to place an order. |
|
Plastic Body Vacuum-Operated,
Pulse-Type Fuel Pump. Operates off engine crankcase vacuum. Can be used on
and fits many makes and models of various small engines. Use for general
lawn and garden work or a 4,000± RPM stock pulling engine. Non-serviceable.
Replaces Briggs & Stratton part # 808656.
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All-Metal Body Vacuum-operated
Pulse-Type Fuel Pump. Operates off engine crankcase vacuum. Can be used on
and fits many makes and models of various small engines. Use for general
lawn and garden work or a 4,000± RPM stock pulling engine. Replaces
Briggs & Stratton part # 808656.
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 Mechanical fuel
pumps for Kohler K90/K91, K141, K160/K161 and K181/M8 K-series and Magnum
(flathead) single cylinder cast iron block engines. Use the supplied snap
ring to press the tabs in the fittings to install and rotate them. New
pumps for thread-in fittings and/or with primer lever no longer available.
L Kohler part # 41 559 05-S.
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 Plastic Body
Mechanical fuel pumps for Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K330/K331,
K321/M14, K341/M16, K361 and K660/K662. Use the supplied snap ring to press
the tabs in the fittings to install and rotate them. Kohler part #'s 47 559
10-S, 47 559 11-S (most common).
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  Metal Body Mechanical fuel pumps for Kohler engine models K241/M10,
K301/M12, K330/K331, K321/M14, K341/M16, K361 and K660/K662.
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 Mechanical fuel
pumps for Kohler models KT17, KT17 series 2, KT19, KT19 series 2, MV16, M18,
MV18, M20 and MV20 Magnum series opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engines.
Use the supplied snap ring to press the tabs in the fittings to install and
rotate them. New pumps for thread-in fittings no longer available.
L Kohler part # 52 559 03-S.
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 Mechanical fuel
pumps for Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582 opposed (flathead) twin
cylinder engines. Use the supplied snap ring to press the tabs in the fittings
to install and rotate them. New pumps for thread-in fittings no longer
available. L Kohler part # 48 559 05-S.
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Fuel Pump Mounting
Gasket. Fits all models of Kohler engines with a camshaft-operated fuel pump.
Approximately 1/32" thick.
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Heat Isolator
Fuel Pump Mounting Gasket. Fits all models of Kohler engines with
a camshaft-operated fuel pump. Manufactured of heat-resistant
phenolic resin. This particular gasket prevents crankcase heat
from being transferred to the fuel pump. Along with the
heat isolator carburetor mounting
gasket, the cooler fuel
atomizes
better before entering the combustion chamber to improve engine performance.
Ideal for heavy lawn/garden work and/or stock competitive
pulling. OEM Kohler part # 277649-S.
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 Fuel Pump Hole
Cover Plates. Each made of 1/8" thick mild steel.
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 Mounting screws for mechanical fuel pumps and block-off plates
above È. 1/4-20 UNC threads x 3/4" thread
length. Phillips head. Comes with split lock washer. NOTE: If you want
to install an electric fuel pump, and your engine has a malfunctioning mechanical
fuel pump and you want to replace it with a block-off plate, the OEM mounting
screws can be reused.
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   12 Volt Electric Fuel Pump Installation Kits.
Low pressure, small and compact. Convert from gravity feed, or replace faulty
vacuum-operated, pulse-type or mechanical fuel pump (with a deteriorated
diaphragm that can seep gas into the crankcase, diluting the oil, which can
could severe internal engine damage), or upgrade to one of these pumps for
more fuel delivery. Each produces 2.5-4.5 psi @ 30 gph, and is non-adjustable.
Fuel regulator is not required, but may require one under certain conditions.
Use for general lawn and garden work, or for garden tractor pulling. Will
work for most single- and twin-cylinder gas engines such as Kohler, Briggs
& Stratton, Tecumseh, Wisconsin, etc., on virtually all models of Cub
Cadet, John Deere, Wheel Horse, Sears Suburban, Massey Ferguson, and just
about any lawn & garden equipment with a 12 volt electrical system. These
electric fuel pump kits come with fittings that accepts 1/4" i.d. fuel hose,
the same size that's on most Kohler and other makes and models of engines.
If it's a Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) engine, the fitting in the carburetor would
need to be changed to 1/4". If the engine has magneto or solid state ignition,
but no charging system, and only a 12 volt battery is used to power the fuel
pump, the battery will need to be recharged with portable battery charger
every now and then so the fuel pump will work at peak efficiency.
Alcohol
resistant and very durable. For stock engines or engines running at high
RPM or wide open throttle. Suitable for small gas engines up to 4 cylinder
carbureted engines. Instant fuel prime to the carburetor as soon as pump
is powered up. Ideal when equipment runs out of gas and no need to crank
engine for a long time to refill carburetor to restart engine. Saves on starter
motor wear. Each operates on 12 volts DC. Rather than a motor or diaphragm,
these solenoid pumps use a piston actuated by an electromagnetic coil to
generate fuel pressure and flow. By using only short pulses of electricity,
this pump is very efficient. IMPORTANT: For winter-time or long-term storage,
drain and flush out all fuel, leave fuel hoses disconnected so entire fuel
system can "air dry," and apply WD-40 or light oil in the fuel pump to prevent
oxidation, which could cause the moving parts to "freeze up" or stick. For
a pulling tractor, if
methanol
fuel is subject to a water test, don't add WD-40 or oil in the pump.
Just drain and flush out all fuel, use compressed air to remove any remaining
fuel from the pump, and store the tractor in a cool, dry environment.
Wire Connections: The BLACK wire connects to negative (–) ground
(tractor chassis or frame), and the
RED wire connects to the positive (+)
battery post or a terminal on the ignition switch that connects to the positive
(+) battery post. If the wires are connected in reverse, the fuel pump will
pump fuel in the opposite direction. It will not harm the pump. And the filter
connects on the side closest to the fuel tank to help keep the inside of
the pump clean so it will last longer.
NOTE: Electric fuel pumps listed here come with a one year warranty. Install the inline fuel filter before the pump (inlet port) to prevent any debris from becoming lodged in the pumping mechanism. If there is debris lodged, it may be removed with 150 psi compressed air when applied in the reverse direction of fuel flow. If the pump still won't work right after clearing it out, please remove the fittings, return the pump and I'll send you another new fuel pump without the hardware and fittings. Click here for electric fuel pump installation diagram. Return To Previous Paragraph or Section
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When to Use an Electric Fuel Pump -
When
burning E85 or methanol fuels, more fuel volume (increase in flow) is required
and a low pressure electric fuel pump
should be used. The carburetor on most garden tractor engines don't require
a lot of fuel pressure. One nice thing about electric fuel pumps besides
they're very reliable, is that they're self-priming. Meaning when an engine
runs out of fuel, there's less risk of burning up the starter motor from
excessive cranking for a vacuum or mechanical pump to pump gas to the carburetor.
As soon as the ignition is turned on (if the electric pump is wired in with
the ignition circuit), the electric pump immediately puts gas to the carburetor.
Most electric fuel pumps are compact, vibration-proof (has solid state dependability), self-priming, easy to install and connect the wiring. They work with either gas, E85 or methanol fuels, won't flood the carburetor, draw very little amperage from the battery, and they cost less than most OEM electric fuel pumps. They're perfect for garden tractors having either a single- or two-cylinder engine.
An electric fuel pump that's made
for an import car/truck produce more flow than any of Kohler's mechanical
pumps, and in most cases, they don't produce not enough pressure to flood
the carburetor. With some high-pressure electric fuel pumps however, an
adjustable fuel pressure regulator with a fuel gauge may need to be used
in-line. Install a "T" in the fuel hose and connect the gauge between the
fuel pump or fuel regulator and carburetor. To begin with, set the regulator
at about 2-1/2 p.s.i. Make the final adjustment on the fuel pressure at high
RPM or wide open throttle, hooked to the sled, while going down the track.
Use a quality fuel pressure gauge that can withstand the vibration of a garden
pulling tractor to monitor the pressure. A low pressure gauge can be purchased
off of
eBay.
Another good thing about an electric fuel pump verses a mechanical pump (if the mechanical pump doesn't have a primer lever, which must be primed manually) is if an engine runs out of fuel, the engine will not have to be cranked for a long time to get the fuel pumped up to the carburetor, which can be hard on an electric starter motor.
When connecting the wires for an electric fuel pump on the tractor with battery ignition, the pump should come with detailed instructions. But if there's no instructions, then connect one wire (usually black in color) to the chassis of the tractor (ground), and the other wire (usually red in color) to the ignition system. The wire going to the coil from the ignition switch is a good one to connect to. On a tractor with magneto ignition, use a separate OFF/ON toggle switch for the fuel pump.
How to Prepare an Electric Fuel Pump for Wintertime or Long-Term Storage -
If the equipment is equipped with an electric pump, for winter-time or long-term storage, drain and flush out all fuel, leave the fuel hoses disconnected so the entire fuel system can "air dry," and apply WD-40 or light in the fuel pump to prevent oxidation, which could cause the moving parts to "freeze up" or stick. For a pulling tractor, if methanol fuel is subject to a water-test, don't add WD-40 or oil in the pump. Just drain and flush out all fuel, use compressed air to remove any remaining fuel from the pump, and store the tractor in a cool, dry environment.
Advertisement:
| If you need your Carter/Kohler or Walbro carburetor rebuilt for daily
use or if you want your carburetor professionally reworked for high performance
use on a Stock, Hot-Stock, Stock-Altered or Pro-Stock pulling tractor, or
if you wish to purchase a rebuilt carburetor, please contact A-1 Miller's
Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri)
65203-9136 USA | Phone:
1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday
(except Holidays), 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try
again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends
(except Holidays). Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for
your arrival. Fax:
1-573-449-7347. E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. Go here for more parts:
Carburetor, Fuel System Parts & Machine Shop
Services |
Please click here to place
an order. |
FYI: I can professionally rebuild older vintage and antique carburetors virtually of any kind as well as newer ones, as long as replacement parts are available. I also have the capability to fabricate new throttle and choke shafts.
When I rebuild a carburetor, I completely disassemble the carburetor, including
the choke and/or throttle shafts if they're worn. I resurface the each mounting
flange on the carburetor on my wide, flat
belt- or disc-sander to remove any roughness/warpage and
restore flatness to prevent a vacuum leak, then I place all the parts in
my
ultrasonic
cleaning machine (with automotive windshield washer cleaning fluid and
high quality and non-corrosive laundry detergent for more thorough cleaning)
for about 5 minutes. I take the parts out, use 150 psi compressed air to
blow-dry all the parts, then I inspect each part for wear or any previous
damage and repair or replace the damaged part(s) and replace the worn parts
with new parts. I also install a new bushing and foam rubber seal for the
throttle shaft, and a new carburetor overhaul kit. I enlarge the lower hole
on the high speed needle adjuster so engine will start quicker and idle better.
And I repair any stripped threads in the carburetor body for the air cleaner
mounting base. And the only way to remove all the paint from the carburetor
body is to sandblast it. But sandblasting can allow tiny particles of sand
to become embedded in the fuel passageways, which could break loose and cause
problems later. Therefore, I do not sandblast carburetors. An original,
ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise
this repair service. Additional Parts and Labor Your Carburetor May Need That's Listed Below
IMPORTANT: When sending your carburetor to me, please package it and all parts to it securely in one sealed zip-lock sandwich bag to prevent loss of parts in shipping, and to prevent the odor of gas from escaping the package. If the odor of gas is still present from outside the package, apply air freshener on the carburetor to disguise the smell of gas. Because the US Postal Service or other delivery services will not deliver any packages that smell like gas. Also, be sure to include a note in the package with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone number (in case I have any questions), a description of what you want done, how the engine will be used and any other parts you may need. I will contact you when the carburetor (and list of parts) are ready to be sent back to you.
ü Bore venturi to a limit of .995" or 1", straight-through design (to match the diameter of throttle bore) or whatever your club's sanctioning rules allow. Read your rules carefully to make sure! I'll need a copy of your club's sanctioning rules regarding the legality of the carburetor, so when I rework it, it'll be legal for use in the class you plan to pull in.
All the carburetors we repair, rebuild or sell come with a 30 day workmanship
warranty and are guaranteed to be free of defects. Technical support comes
with part of the warranty. And remember - performance carburetors are like
women, it's what's on the inside that matters.
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| Professionally Rebuilt and New Carburetors For Sale - NOTE: I set the air/fuel adjusters on all carburetors just so the engine will start and run, but because of the attitude where the engine will be used, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature, the customer will need to make the final adjustments so the engine will run smoothly. No carburetor with an adjustable high speed air/fuel adjuster screw comes preset, not even new ones. And all the carburetors that I repair, rebuild or sell come with a 30 day workmanship warranty and are guaranteed to be free of defects. Technical support comes with part of the warranty. Other carburetor services listed further down in the website. |
Carburetors for Kohler K-series K90/K91 flathead cast iron
block engines. These are plain, stock carburetors that's been completely
disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt. All fuel passageways cleared,
new parts and if necessary, a bushing and/or new throttle shaft installed.
No performance modifications are made to these carburetors whatsoever. All
carburetors that we repair, rebuild or sell come with a 30 day workmanship
warranty and are guaranteed to be free of defects. Technical support comes
with part of the warranty. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments
will be initially set on the carburetor to get the engine running, but due
to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature
where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture
adjustments will need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth.
Carter carburetor part # G-220517. NOTE: Not all carburetor numbers are listed
with Kohler.
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Carburetors for Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K141, K160/K161,
K181/M8. These are plain, stock carburetors that's been completely disassembled,
thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt. All fuel passageways cleared, new parts and
if necessary, a bushing and/or new throttle shaft installed. No performance
modifications are made to these carburetors whatsoever. All carburetors that
we repair, rebuild or sell come with a 30 day workmanship warranty and are
guaranteed to be free of defects. Technical support comes with part of the
warranty. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be initially
set on the carburetor to get the engine running, but due to the altitude
level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine
will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments will
need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth. Carter carburetor
part #'s B-231739, C-231738, 41 053 01, 41 053 13, 41 053 18 or 41 053 20.
NOTE: Not all carburetor numbers are listed with Kohler.
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Carburetors for Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241/M10 and
K301/M12. These are plain, stock carburetors that's been completely disassembled,
thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt. All fuel passageways cleared, new parts and
if necessary, a bushing and/or new throttle shaft installed. No performance
modifications made to these carburetors whatsoever. Comes with choke plate
installed. For gas or E85. Please indicate if for a Kohler AQS (Quiet Line)
engine with the oblong-shaped
air filter housing , or for an engine with the
round air filter housing .
(The choke lever and air filter housing mounting holes are different.) All
carburetors that we repair, rebuild or sell come with a 30 day workmanship
warranty and are guaranteed to be free of defects. Technical support comes
with part of the warranty. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments
will be initially set on the carburetor to get the engine running, but due
to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature
where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture
adjustments will need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth.
Kohler carburetor part #'s 47 053 07, 47 053 08, 47 053 12, 47 053 13, 47
053 14, 47 053 24, 47 053 29, 47 053 40, 47 053 62 or 47 053 80. NOTE: Not
all carburetor numbers are listed with Kohler.
|
Carburetors
for Kohler engine models K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361. These are plain, stock
carburetors that's been completely disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt.
All fuel passageways cleared, new parts and if necessary, a bushing and/or
new throttle shaft installed. No performance modifications made to these
carburetors whatsoever. Comes with choke plate installed. For gas or E85.
Please indicate if for a Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) engine with the
oblong-shaped air filter housing
, or for an engine with the
round air filter housing .
(The choke lever and air filter housing mounting holes are different.) All
carburetors that we repair, rebuild or sell come with a 30 day workmanship
warranty and are guaranteed to be free of defects. Technical support comes
with part of the warranty. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments
will be initially set on the carburetor to get the engine running, but due
to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature
where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture
adjustments will need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth.
Kohler carburetor part #'s 45 053 08, 45 053 09, 45 053 12, 45 053 20, 45
053 26, 45 053 68, 45 053 70, 45 053 76, 45 053 77, 47 053 03, 47 053 09,
47 053 15, 47 053 16, 47 053 17, 47 053 20, 47 053 30, 47 053 35, 47 053
41, 47 053 63 or 47 053 78. NOTE: Not all carburetor numbers are listed with
Kohler.
|
Carburetors for Kohler KT-series and Magnum models KT17, KT17 series
2, KT19, KT19 series 2, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20 opposed (flathead) twin cylinder
engines. These are plain, stock carburetors that's been completely disassembled,
thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt. All fuel passageways cleared, new parts and
if necessary, a bushing and/or new throttle shaft installed. No performance
modifications made to these carburetors whatsoever. Comes with choke plate
installed. Set up for gas. When ordering, please specify the position
of the choke lever. All carburetors that we repair, rebuild or sell come
with a 30 day workmanship warranty and are guaranteed to be free of defects.
Technical support comes with part of the warranty. The idle speed and air/fuel
mixture adjustments will be initially set on the carburetor to get the engine
running, but due to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and
air temperature where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed
air/fuel mixture adjustments will need to be made by the customer so the
engine will run smooth. Kohler carburetor part #'s 52 053 09, 52 053 18 or
52 053 28. NOTE: Not all carburetor numbers are listed with Kohler.
|
If the throttle and/or choke
shafts and/or shaft holes are worn in a K482, K532 or K582 carburetor, if
the holes aren't worn beyond for reuse, I make a new throttle shaft for it.
But if the holes are worn too, and being the metal is too thin on one side
for installation of a bushing, the shaft holes will need to be enlarged a
few thousandths bigger than 1/4", and a steel rod that's slightly bigger
than the enlarged holes (for a slip-fit) will need to be fabricated for use
as a throttle shaft. I then align and weld the OEM throttle lever to the
new shaft. I also install a foam seal on the throttle
shaft and a thin, hardened steel thrust washer next to the throttle plate
to prevent it from wearing against the carburetor body. And I install a new
overhaul kit. I've performed this type of repair many times with excellent
results. I offer this repair service. If interested, I will need for you
to send me your carburetor. And for dimensional measurements, I will need
the complete carburetor with the throttle and choke shafts with the levers
and the throttle and choke plates. I will fabricate new shaft(s), and install
the lever(s) on the shaft(s), and install the throttle and/or choke plates
on the shafts in the carburetor. FYI - Bearing bronze is very hard, porous,
absorbs oil and lasts a long time when lubricated regularly and used as a
bushing. Brass, on the other hand, is soft, non-porous and wears quickly
when used as a load-bearing bushing or shaft.
Click here to learn how to
professionally remove Carter/Kohler throttle or choke plate soft brass retaining
screws without breaking them off. An innovative concept by Brian Miller,
because nobody else advertise this repair service.
|
 Rebuilt, reworked and modified
only for high performance use, #26 Carter/Kohler carburetors. These carburetors
have been internally modified to outperform a stock OEM carburetor under
heavy pulling load and will not run lean while going down the track. Will
pass tech with any club. The venturi in these carburetors can be bored so
they'll have either a 7/8", .995" or 1" venturi or a 1.07" straight-through
throttle bore for high RPM operation, setup for gas, E85 or methanol fuels,
whatever your club's sanctioning rules allow or whatever you desire for all-out
engine performance. These carburetors are completely disassembled, then
thoroughly cleaned. All fuel passageways cleared, new parts and a new throttle
shaft and/or bushing are installed if necessary. The idle speed and air/fuel
mixture adjustments will be initially set on the carburetor to get the engine
running, but due to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and
air temperature where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed
air/fuel mixture adjustments will need to be made by the customer so the
engine will run smooth.
NOTE: These carburetors are designed for use on Stock and Stock-Altered pulling engines with a stock size or an oversize intake valve. Also, a high performance carburetor is designed solely for a high performance engine. Just bolting on a high performance carburetor is not how to gain more power and torque for a stock engine. If your engine is not a high performance engine built to race specs, then it will not benefit from a high performance carburetor whatsoever. These carburetors will not allow a stock "factory-built engine" to produce lots of power just by bolting it on. Everything in the engine MUST work together to prevent air restriction or a "bottleneck" to slow down air flow. With a bigger carburetor, the engine needs to breath A LOT more air in and out of the combustion chamber. This means the intake and exhaust ports will need to be made bigger, the valves reworked for more airflow, a bigger cam will need to be installed, and the ignition system will need to be up to standards. Also, these carburetors are "built to order." So when placing an order, please specify if your engine has a factory stock size or oversize intake valve, if you want it with a straight-thru throttle bore (no venturi) or a .995" or 1" venturi, if the engine is going to turn 4,000± RPM or wide open throttle, and if you want the choke plate/shaft installed. All carburetors that we repair, rebuild or sell come with a 30 day workmanship warranty and are guaranteed to be free of defects. Technical support comes with part of the warranty.
|
| Rebuilt, reworked and modified
only for high performance use, #30 Carter/Kohler carburetors. These carburetors
have been internally modified to outperform a stock OEM carburetor under
heavy pulling load and will not run lean while going down the track. Will
pass tech with any club. The venturi in these carburetors can be bored so
they'll have a 1.2" straight-through throttle bore, setup for gas, E85 or
methanol fuels, whatever your club's sanctioning rules allow or whatever
you desire for all-out engine performance. These carburetors are completely
disassembled, then thoroughly cleaned. All fuel passageways cleared, new
parts and a new throttle shaft and/or bushing are installed if necessary.
The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be initially set on
the carburetor to get the engine running, but due to the altitude level,
atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine will
be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments will need
to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth.
NOTE: These carburetors are designed for use on Stock and Stock-Altered pulling engines with a stock size or an oversize intake valve. Also, a high performance carburetor is designed solely for a high performance engine. Just bolting on a high performance carburetor is not how to gain more power and torque for a stock engine. If your engine is not a high performance engine built to race specs, then it will not benefit from a high performance carburetor whatsoever. These carburetors will not allow a stock "factory-built engine" to produce lots of power just by bolting it on. Everything in the engine MUST work together to prevent air restriction or a "bottleneck" to slow down air flow. With a bigger carburetor, the engine needs to breath A LOT more air in and out of the combustion chamber. This means the intake and exhaust ports will need to be made bigger, the valves reworked for more airflow, a bigger cam will need to be installed, and the ignition system will need to be up to standards. Also, these carburetors are "built to order." So when placing an order, please specify if your engine has a factory stock size or oversize intake valve, if you want it with a straight-thru throttle bore (no venturi) or a .995" or 1" venturi, if the engine is going to turn at 4,000± RPM or wide open throttle, and if you want the choke plate/shaft installed. All carburetors that we repair, rebuild or sell come with a 30 day workmanship warranty and are guaranteed to be free of defects. Technical support comes with part of the warranty.
|
| If you need any of the parts or services listed below
Ê, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136
USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313
(shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays),
9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When
speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's
shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends (except Holidays).
Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest.
Please click here
to place an order. |
|||
| NOTE: All parts listed here are NEW, unless otherwise stated. I do not sell cheap junk! As a matter of fact, most OEM Kohler parts are made in China now. Kohler owns some of the factories in China that make the parts. And most aftermarket parts are also made by Kohler in China. Kohler just place the part(s) in a generic box and sell them for less money. So when purchasing a genuine OEM Kohler part that comes in a box with the Kohler name on it, you're really just paying more money for the name. | |||
 Carburetor to
Block Mounting Gasket for Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 and Walbro WHL #36, #44
carburetors used on Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K90/K91, K141,
K160/K161 and K181/M8. Also replaces Tecumseh part # 31960A. Approximately
1/64" compressed thickness.
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 Carburetor to Air
Filter Housing or Intake Elbow Adapter Mounting Gasket for Carter #16, #18,
#20, #22 and Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetors used on K90/K91, K141, K160/K161
and K181 Kohler K-series flathead cast iron block engines, and most aluminum
block Tecumseh engines. Approximately 1/32" compressed thickness. Use with
two mounting screws. (This is a Tecumseh part that happens to fit the
Carter and Walbro WHL carburetors perfectly.) Discontinued from Kohler.
L Replaces Kohler part # 220537.
|
 Carburetor to Air Filter
Housing or Intake Elbow Adapter Mounting Gasket for Carter #16, #18, #20,
#22 and Walbro WHL 36, #44 carburetors used on K90/K91, K141, K160/K161 and
K181/M8 Kohler K-series and Magnum flathead cast iron block engines. Use
with two or three mounting screws. Approximately 1/32" compressed thickness.
Alternative gasket to the left.
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 Carburetor to Block Mounting
Gasket for Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors
used on Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K330/K331, K321/M14, K341/M16
and K361 and opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engines. Approximately 1/32"
compressed thickness. For general lawn work. Approximately 1/32" compressed
thickness.
|
 Carburetor
to Block Heat Isolator Mounting
Gasket for Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64
carburetors used on Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K330/K331, K321/M14
and K341/M16. Approximately 5/32" compressed thickness. Has gaskets adhered
to each side of heat resistant
phenolic
resin center. NOTE: This particular gasket prevents engine
heat from being transferred to the carburetor. Along with the
heat isolator fuel pump mounting gasket,
the cooler fuel
atomizes
better before entering the combustion chamber to improve engine performance.
Ideal for heavy lawn/garden work and/or stock competition pulling when rules
require that carburetor cannot be mounted with any kind of
extension.
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  Carburetor to Air Cleaner Base Mounting Gaskets for Carter/Kohler
#26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors used on Kohler K-series
and various Magnum engine models K241, K301/M12, K321/M14, K330/K331, K341/M16.
Use each with three mounting screws.
|
 Carburetor to Air Cleaner Base Mounting Gaskets for Carter/Kohler
#26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors used on Kohler K-series
AQS (Quiet Line) and various Magnum engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14
, K341/M16 and K361. Use each with three mounting screws.
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 Carburetor to Air Intake
Elbow Adapter Mounting Gasket for Kohler engine models K321, K341, KT17,
KT17 series 2, KT19, KT19 series 2, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20, K482, K532,
K582.
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 Elbow Adapter to Air Filter
Housing Mounting Gasket for Kohler engine models CH25, CH730-740, KT17, KT17
series 2, KT19, KT19 series 2, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20, K482, K532, K582.
Approximately 1/32" compressed thickness.
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 Intake Manifold to Cylinder
Mounting Gasket for Kohler opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engine models
KT17, KT17 series 2, KT19, KT19 series 2, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20.
Approximately 1/32" compressed thickness.
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 Exhaust Manifold to Cylinder
Mounting Gasket for Kohler opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engine models
KT17, KT17 series 2, KT19, KT19 series 2, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20.
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 Intake Manifold to Block
Mounting Gasket for Kohler opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engine models
K482, K532 and K582.
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 Exhaust Manifold to Block
Mounting Gasket for Kohler opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engine models
K482, K532 and K582.
|
||
 Carburetor Overhaul Kits
for Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 and Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors
used on Kohler K-series and early Magnum single and opposed (flathead) twin
cylinder engines. Includes
Viton-tip
fuel inlet float valve/brass seat, bowl O-ring seal, fuel baffle splash shield,
bottom fiber washer and float hinge pin. All parts made of
alcohol
resistant
neoprene
rubber.
|
 Carburetor Overhaul Kit
with Viton-tip
fuel inlet float valve for Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors
that's used on Kohler Magnum models M8, M10, M12, M14, M16, MV16, M18, MV18,
M20 and MV20 single- and twin-cylinder flathead cast iron block engines.
Includes carburetor mounting gasket, but not the seat for the float valve.
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 Float Bowl O-Ring
Seal for Carter/Kohler carburetors. Dimensions (±): 2-3/16" i.d. x 2-7/16"
o.d. x .040" thickness. Rectangular cross-section. Fits Carter #16, #18,
#20, #22 and Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors used on the Kohler K-series
and early Magnum single cylinder K90-K361 single- and twin-cylinder flathead
cast iron block engines. Also fits Briggs & Stratton 7-11hp engines,
and Tecumseh engines with the Carter or Walbro carburetors (large bowl).
Made of
alcohol
resistant
neoprene
rubber. Included in overhaul kit above È.
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 Fuel Baffle Splash
Shield. Fits all Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 and Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30
carburetors used on the Kohler K-series and early Magnum single cylinder
K90-K361 single- and twin-cylinder flathead cast iron block engines. Goes
between bowl seal and float bowl; prevents splashing fuel from entering into
throttle bore through the atmospheric vent opening (air passageway from inside
the float bowl area to outside of carburetor). Made of
alcohol
resistant
neoprene
rubber. Included in overhaul kit above È.
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 Float bowl for
Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors used on Kohler K-series engine models
K90/K9, K141, K160, K161 and K181. Available in aluminum only.
Dimensions: 2-3/8" o.d. x 1-1/4" height x 5/16" bottom hole.
Float bowls for Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors used on Kohler K-series
engine models K241, K301, K330/K331, K321, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 series
2, KT19, KT19 series 2 and KT21.
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 Float Bowl Retaining
Bolt. 5/16" diameter threads x 1/2" head. Fits Carter #16, #18, #20, #22
carburetors. Comes with sealing fiber washer.
Float Bowl Retaining Bolts. 3/8" diameter threads. Fits Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors, and Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors. Also fits the carburetor on all Briggs & Stratton opposed twin cylinder flathead engines. Replaces obsolete Briggs & Stratton part # 397882.
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| Bottom High
Speed Air/Fuel Adjuster -
The bottom high speed air/fuel adjuster is not an OEM Kohler part and not a modification by Kohler. This part is an absolute must for a competition pulling engine that runs at very high RPM or wide open throttle. It provides no high-performance engine enhancements whatsoever. It's an add-on feature that replaces the OEM float bowl retaining bolt above È only to prevent wearing or enlarging the fuel suction hole in the main jet by the OEM high speed needle adjuster due to normal engine vibration at very high RPM or wide open throttle engine operations. (Whoever says that the use of this part will increase the performance of an engine obviously do not know what they are talking about, or they are in the business of selling new main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube)s, which can be very difficult to remove.) The carburetor must be converted to the bottom adjuster when using this part. Fits all Carter/Kohler #26, #28 and #30 carburetors used on Kohler K-series and early Magnum engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361. Can also be used in the carburetor on all Briggs & Stratton opposed twin cylinder flathead engines to "fine tune" the air/fuel mixture.
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 5/16" i.d. Float
Bowl Retaining Bolt Fiber Sealing Washer. Fits Carter #16, #18, #20, #22,
Briggs & Stratton, Mikuni, Tecumseh and other small carburetors. Not
available from Kohler, and the 5/16" size is not included in the Carter/Kohler
carburetor overhaul kit. Replaces Tecumseh part # 632673, 640042.
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 Brass Floats for
all Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 and Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors
used on the Kohler K-series, early Magnum single cylinder K90-K361 single-
and twin-cylinder flathead cast iron block engines. Dimensions (±):
15/16" i.d. x 1-15/16" o.d. x 5/8" tall. NOTE: ALL brass floats
need to be adjusted when installed. They don't come preset. To set the float
level, with the carburetor turned upside down, set the float parallel with
the carburetor body. To adjust the float level, use a small flat screwdriver
to gently bend the tang that contacts the float valve. Then make sure that
the float moves up and down freely without binding.
|
|||
 Plastic Floats
for Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors used on the Kohler's
newer Magnum M8-M16 single- and M18, M20 twin-cylinder cast iron block flathead
engines.
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 Float Pins for
Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 and Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30, Briggs & Stratton,
Lawn Boy and Tecumseh carburetors. Dimensions: .090" diameter x .881" length.
Float Pins for Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors. Dimensions: .090" diameter x 1.125" length.
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 Float Stabilizer
Spring for Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors for pulling engines that
run well above 4,000 RPM or wide open throttle. Minimizes float bouncing
and due to normal single cylinder engine vibration at high RPM or wide open
throttle, which could also cause momentary engine misfire and/or fuel spillage
out of atmospheric vent opening (air passageway from inside the float bowl
area to outside of carburetor). Listed mainly for off-road vehicles and
generator/welder engines. Not necessary for general lawn and garden use or
pulling engines that operate at 4,000± RPM or below.
|
|||
New Brass Main
Jet/Nozzle (Emulsion Tube). Fits all Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors
used on Kohler K-series and early Magnum engine models K241, K301, K321,
K330/K331, K341, K361 and opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engines. Drilled
for gas. This part is professionally CNC machined in the USA and not available
from Kohler. NOTE: When rebuilding a plain, stock Carter/Kohler
carburetor, there is no need to remove the main jet/nozzle. If it won't come
out, then don't worry about it. All that has to be done to make sure the
bottom hole and the side holes on it are open. To check if the side holes
are open, simply spray carburetor cleaner or WD-40 or carburetor cleaner
(in an aerosol spray can) through the small hole just under the choke plate
and observe if the spray exits out the main jet/nozzle inside the throttle
bore and bottom of carburetor. But if modifying a carburetor to bore the
venturi, the main jet/nozzle must be removed.
Click here for
how to remove the main jet/nozzle.
|
|||
 Fixed Main Jets
for Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors. 10-32 UNF threads. Go here to
identify the correct jet for any particular carburetor:
Kohler
Carburetor Reference Manual. NOTE: Numbers on carburetor must match
numbers of main jet for engine to run correctly. Available Jet Sizes
and Prices:
|
|||
 Idle Fuel Mixture
Adjuster Screws for Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors with following
numbers stamped on top of carburetor body: G-220517, C-231738, B-231739,
41 053 01, 41 053 13, 41 053 18, 41 053 20 used on Kohler engine models K90/K91,
K141, K160/K161 and K181. Also for Carter/Kohler #30 carburetors with 1.17"
or 1.2" throttle bore with following numbers stamped on mounting flange:
45 053 08, 45 053 09, 45 053 12, 45 053 20, 45 053 68, 45 053 70, 45 053
76, 45 053 86, 45 053 87, 45 053 88, 45 053 89, 47 053 03, 47 053 09, 47
053 15, 47 053 16, 47 053 17, 47 053 20, 47 053 30, 47 053 41, 47 053 63,
47 053 78 used on Kohler engine models K321, K341 and K361. Short step tip.
Dimensions: .865" overall length x .200" tip length x 7-40 threads.
Idle Speed Adjuster Screws for Kohler #26, #30 carburetors used on Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582. Dimensions: 8-32 UNF x 3/4" length.
Important - Please check numbers on carburetor before ordering. If in doubt about superseded numbers for any particular carburetor, refer to Kohler Engines Parts Lookup (require Internet Explorer.) Mark "I accept", scroll down, click on "Enter as Guest" and enter part number in upper right corner. Use the newest superseded part number available, click on "where used" in the pop-up dialog box. A list engine models and spec numbers should be displayed.
 High Speed Air/Fuel Mixture
Needle Adjuster Screw for certain Carter/Kohler #28, #30 carburetors used
on Kohler K-series and early Magnum single cylinder engine models K321, K341
and K361. Has two holes midway and one lower hole on stem. Designed specifically
for Kohler carburetors with following numbers stamped on mounting flange:
4174S (Carter), 45 053 08, 45 053 12, 45 053 20, 45 053 26, 45 053 68, 45
053 70, 45 053 76, 45 053 77 and 47 053 11. IMPORTANT - Please check numbers
on carburetor before ordering and go here to identify the correct part for
any particular carburetor:
Kohler
Carburetor Reference Manual. Discontinued from Kohler. Kohler part #
45 103 01-S.
 High Speed Air/Fuel Mixture
Needle Adjuster Screw for certain Carter #30 carburetors used on certain
Kohler engine models K321, and Kohler #26, 1.07" throttle bore carburetors
used on Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582. Each has no holes midway
and one lower hole on stem. Designed specifically for certain Carter and
Kohler carburetors with following numbers stamped on mounting flange: A236636
(Carter), 47 053 03, 47 053 09, 47 053 15, 47 053 16, 47 053 17, 47 053 20,
47 053 30, 47 053 41, 47 053 63 and 47 053 78. IMPORTANT - Please check numbers
on carburetor before ordering and go here to identify the correct part for
any particular carburetor:
Kohler
Carburetor Reference Manual. Not available in aftermarket.
L
|
|||
Plugs for Carter/Kohler and Walbro carburetors. Expansion/welch
plugs are concave/dish-shaped, not cup-shaped. Expands and flattens out with
hammer when installed in counterbore hole. No sealant required. Steel ball
press-fit in hole. Not available from Kohler.
|
|||
 Carburetor Mounting
Screw (Bolt) w/Slotted Head for Carter #16, #18, #20, #22, and Walbro WHL
#36, #44 carburetors that's used on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161
and K181/M8. Use small screwdriver in slot to start screws in threaded holes.
Size: 1/4-20 UNC x 3/4" thread length. Discontinued from Kohler.
L Replaces Kohler part # X-140-1-S.
|
|||
A worn throttle shaft is the #1 cause
of most engines wearing out and burning oil prematurely. If a carburetor
has a worn throttle shaft, this will create a vacuum leak and the engine
will idle poorly, if at all at times. Not to mention the engine will also
draw in dirty air, causing wear on the valve faces/seats and piston rings,
and engine will burn oil. More than .010" of play is considered too much
for throttle shaft wear. Plus, at operating running speeds (3,600 RPM), the
extra air will cause the engine to run lean on fuel, which will overheat
the combustion chamber and cause the cylinder head to warp (blow a head gasket)
and the piston and rings to wear prematurely, eventually resulting in severe
engine wear and excessive oil burning. Along with regular maintenance, repair
of a worn throttle shaft is required to help an engine last a long time.
The most accurate way to check for amount of wear is with a
dial indicator.
Furthermore, all Carter/Kohler and Walbro carburetors didn't come with a throttle shaft bushing installed from the factory. A new bushing (see below Ê) must be installed when the throttle shaft is worn and loose in the carburetor body, or sometimes a new bushing and a new throttle shaft both must be installed. If there's a counterbore (recession in the carburetor body) where the throttle shaft is, a short, flat bronze bushing can be installed, and if it's still in good condition, the original throttle shaft can be reused. But if there's no counterbore, the carburetor body will need to be precision aligned-bored for installation of a bronze sleeve bushing, and chances are, a new throttle shaft will also need to be installed. Special machining of the carburetor body is required for the sleeve bushing. And ALL Carter and Kohler #26, #28 and #30, and the older Walbro #52, #60 and #64 carburetors have the counterbore. Only the newer Walbro #52, #60, #64, and the Chinese-made carburetors don't have the counterbore. If the carburetor has the counterbore, the throttle shaft will need to be removed, the dirt and debris will need to be cleaned out from the counterbore, and then the short, flat bushing can be installed. But if there's no counterbore, the upper hole in the carburetor body will need to be bored out in precision alignment with the lower hole in a milling machine, and then a bronze sleeve bushing can be installed. Return To Previous Paragraph |
|||
Throttle Shaft Protective Dust/Dirt Seals. Apply
clean motor oil on seal before installing
to trap dust and dirt to prevent wearing of throttle shaft and/or upper hole
in carburetor body or bushing.
Click here to
learn how to professionally remove Carter/Kohler throttle or choke plate
retaining screws without breaking them off.
Return To Previous Paragraph or
Section
Additional Note: Usually the short, flat bronze bushing will snug up a worn throttle shaft. With oil for lubrication and a felt or foam seal to keep out dust and dirt (available below Ê), the bushing and shaft should last a long time. If the bushing fits somewhat loose in the counterbore, lightly tap the sides of the counterbore with a hammer to make the counterbore slightly oblong or egg-shaped. The newer Walbro and the Chinese-made carburetors have no counterbore for the bushing, and sometimes in these carburetors, the [upper] throttle shaft hole will wear. When this happens, just installing a new shaft won't fix the problem. The upper hole must be precision-bored perfectly aligned with the [unworn] lower hole, and a bronze sleeve bushing will need to be installed along with a new throttle shaft. On other makes of carburetors, if the original shaft is worn and a new throttle shaft isn't available, then a new throttle shaft will need to be machined/fabricated. The throttle lever can be reused and welded to the new machined/fabricated shaft. And if necessary, a slightly oversized throttle shaft can be installed instead of the original diameter shaft. I can do all of these things for $50.00± each for parts and labor, plus return shipping and handling.
OEM Kohler Choke Shaft Repair Kits -
Throttle and Choke Plate Retaining Screws | Don't reuse the OEM soft brass throttle or choke plate retaining screws! They can break off while being tightened or possibly loosen and dislodge later, and can damage the valves or piston. | Return To Previous Paragraph or Section
Quality High Speed Steel Taper Hand Taps. Taper taps allow for the tip to be inserted deeper in the hole for easier cutting of threads and less chance of breaking off in the hole.
4-40 UNC size. For newer OEM Walbro and cutting oversize threads in Carter/Kohler throttle and choke shafts when 3-48 threads strip out. $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling. 5-44 UNF size. For cutting oversize threads in throttle and choke shafts when 4-40 threads strip out. $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
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 Remote Solid Wire Throttle
Control Cable. All heavy duty metal construction. Conduit: 36-1/2"; Inner
wire: 41-1/4"; Wire travel: 1-3/4".
|
  Remote Push/Pull Solid Wire Choke Control Cable. Durable plastic
construction to resist rust w/metal conduit. Conduit length: 40-1/2"; Inner
wire length: 42-1/4"; Wire travel: 2".
|
||
 Throttle Shaft
with lever attached for Carter #16, #18 and Walbro WHL #36 carburetors used
on Kohler engine models K90/K91 cast iron block flathead engines. Steel lever
with 7/32" diameter hardened bronze shaft. Comes with 3-48 UNC stainless
steel screws and split lock washers. No threadlocker required. Can be used
with OEM Carter throttle plate or the 25 146 05-S (Walbro) throttle plate
below. NOTE: Apply clean motor oil or
lubricating grease on shaft before installing for smooth
throttle operation and less wear to shaft, bushing and/or carburetor body.
Click here to learn how to
professionally remove Carter/Kohler throttle or choke plate soft brass retaining
screws without breaking them off.
|
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  Throttle Shafts with integrated lever for Carter #20, #22 and
Walbro WHL #44 carburetors used on Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161,
K181 and M8 cast iron block flathead engines. Steel lever with 7/32" diameter
hardened bronze shaft. Comes with 3-48 UNC stainless steel screws and split
lock washers. No threadlocker required. Can be used with OEM Carter throttle
plate or the 25 146 05-S (Walbro) throttle plate below
Ê. NOTE: Apply clean motor oil
or
lubricating grease on shaft before installing for smooth
throttle operation and less wear to shaft, bushing and/or carburetor body.
Go here to
learn how to professionally remove Carter/Kohler throttle or choke plate
retaining screws without breaking them off.
|
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| Throttle Shaft Upgrade Kit -
|
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 Throttle Shafts
for Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12 and K330/K331. Each have a small
hole for throttle stabilizer spring or throttle return spring (pulling).
NOTE: Apply clean motor oil or
lubricating grease on shaft before installing for smooth
throttle operation and less wear to shaft, bushing and/or carburetor body.
Click here to learn how to
professionally remove Carter/Kohler throttle or choke plate soft brass retaining
screws without breaking them off.
 Throttle plate made specifically
for Walbro WHG #52 carburetor with 1.07" throttle bore originally used on
Kohler Magnum engine models M10, M12, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Designed
to be used with OEM Kohler part # 47 144 35-S throttle shaft above
È with 9/16" screw hole spacing. OEM
Kohler part # 25 146 02-S. (Walbro part # 34-112; but available only from
Kohler.)
 Throttle plates made specifically
for Walbro HDA, LMH, WHG #60, #64 carburetors with 1.2" throttle bore originally
used on Kohler Magnum engine models M14 and M16. Designed to be used with
47 144 36-S throttle shaft above È with
3/4" screw hole spacing when used in a Carter or Kohler carburetor.
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 Throttle shaft
w/foam seal and throttle plates for Kohler engine models CH11, CH12.5, CH14,
CV11, CV12.5, CV13, CV14, CV15, CV16 and CV460 with the Walbro carburetor.
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 Throttle Shaft
w/Prominent Raised Lever for Walbro WHG #52 or Kohler #26 carburetors used
on Kohler horizontal shaft engine models KT17, KT17 series 2, KT19, KT19
series 2, M18 and M20. 1/4" diameter hardened bronze shaft with steel lever.
Comes with screws and split lock washers. No threadlocker required. Lever
has a 3/16" hole for throttle bushing/linkage. NOTE: To be used with Kohler
25 146 02-S (Walbro # 34-112) throttle plate. Apply clean motor oil
or
lubricating grease on shaft before installing for smooth
throttle operation and less wear to shaft, bushing and/or carburetor body.
Click here to learn how to
professionally remove Carter/Kohler throttle or choke plate soft brass retaining
screws without breaking them off. OEM Kohler part # 52 144 22-S.
|
|||
 Choke shaft w/remote
solid wire cable-controlled lever for Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 and Walbro
WHL #36, #44 carburetors used on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161,
K181 and M8. Steel lever with hardened bronze shaft. Overall shaft length:
2-1/2". The 1-7/8" length choke shaft, which was made by Carter, is no longer
available. L) Comes with screws and split lock
washers. No threadlocker required. NOTE: Apply clean motor oil
or
lubricating grease on shaft before installing for smooth
choke operation and less wear to shaft and/or carburetor body.
Click here to learn how to
professionally remove Carter/Kohler throttle or choke plate soft brass retaining
screws without breaking them off.
|
|||
 Choke shaft
w/hand-operated or remote solid wire cable-controlled angled lever for Carter
#16, #18, #20, #22 and Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetors used on Kohler engine
models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8. Steel lever with hardened bronze
shaft. Overall shaft length: 2-1/16". The 1-7/8" length choke shaft, which
was made by Carter, is no longer available. L)
Comes with screws and split lock washers. No threadlocker required. NOTE:
Apply clean motor oil or
lubricating grease on shaft before installing for smooth
choke operation and less wear to shaft and/or carburetor body.
Click here to learn how to
professionally remove Carter/Kohler throttle or choke plate soft brass retaining
screws without breaking them off.
|
|||
 Choke shaft w/remote
solid wire cable-controlled, swivel screw clamp lever for Carter #16, #18,
#20, #22 and Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetors used on Kohler engine models
K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8. Steel lever with hardened bronze shaft.
Overall shaft length: 2-1/2". (The 1-7/8" length choke shaft, which was
originally made by Carter, is no longer available.
L) Steel lever with hardened bronze shaft.
Comes with screws and split lock washers. No threadlocker required. NOTE:
Apply clean motor oil or
lubricating grease on shaft before installing for smooth
choke operation and less wear to shaft and/or carburetor body.
Click here to learn how to
professionally remove Carter/Kohler throttle or choke plate soft brass retaining
screws without breaking them off.
|
|||
 Choke shaft w/short,
remote solid wire cable-controlled lever for Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30
and Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors with the
round air filter housing
assembly. Steel lever with hardened bronze shaft. Overall shaft length:
2-5/8". 1/4" diameter hardened bronze shaft with steel lever. Comes with
screws and split lock washers. No threadlocker required. NOTE: The choke
shaft for Carter/Kohler carburetors have been discontinued. This one is made
by Walbro and designed for Walbro choke plates in a Walbro carburetor. If
used in a Carter/Kohler carburetor, the holes in the Carter/Kohler choke
plate may need to be elongated to align with the threaded holes in this shaft.
And apply clean motor oil or
lubricating grease on shaft before installing for smooth
choke operation and less wear to shaft and/or carburetor body.
Click here to learn how to
professionally remove Carter/Kohler throttle or choke plate soft brass retaining
screws without breaking them off.
|
|||
Choke shaft w/short,
angled, hand-operated or remote solid wire cable-controlled lever for
Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors with
the round air filter housing
assembly. 1/4" diameter hardened bronze shaft with steel lever. Overall
shaft length: 2-5/8". Comes with screws and split lock washers. No threadlocker
required. NOTE: The choke shaft for Carter/Kohler carburetors have been
discontinued. L This one is made by
Walbro and designed for Walbro choke plates in a Walbro carburetor. If used
in a Carter/Kohler carburetor, the holes in the Carter/Kohler choke plate
may need to be elongated to align with the threaded holes in this shaft.
And apply clean motor oil or
lubricating grease on shaft before installing for smooth
choke operation and less wear to shaft and/or carburetor body.
Click here to learn how to
professionally remove Carter/Kohler throttle or choke plate soft brass retaining
screws without breaking them off.
|
|||
Choke shaft w/long,
straight, hand-operated or remote solid wire cable-controlled lever for Kohler
#26, #30 and Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors with the AQS (Quiet Line)
oblong-shaped air filter housing
assembly. 1/4" diameter hardened bronze shaft with steel lever. Overall
shaft length: 2-5/8". Comes with screws and split lock washers. No threadlocker
required. NOTE: The choke shaft for Carter/Kohler carburetors have been
discontinued. L This one is made by
Walbro and designed for Walbro choke plates in a Walbro carburetor. If used
in a Carter/Kohler carburetor, the holes in the Carter/Kohler choke plate
may need to be elongated to align with the threaded holes in this shaft.
And apply clean motor oil or
lubricating grease on shaft before installing for smooth
choke operation and less wear to shaft and/or carburetor body.
Click here to learn how to
professionally remove Carter/Kohler throttle or choke plate soft brass retaining
screws without breaking them off.
|
|||
 Choke Shaft
w/"Downward Swing" Lever (most common) for Kohler engine models KT17, KT19,
KT19 series 2, M18, M20 with the Kohler #26 or Walbro WHG #52 carburetor.
1/4" diameter hardened bronze shaft with steel lever. Overall shaft length:
2-5/8". For carburetors with following numbers stamped on mounting flange:
52 053 01, 52 053 09, 52 053 20, 52 053 26, 52 053 28, 52 053 31, 52 053
36, 52 053 37, 52 053 38, 52 053 46, 52 053 50, 52 053 52, 52 053 56, 52
053 58, 52 053 63, 52 053 63, 52 053 66. Comes with screws and split lock
washers. No threadlocker required. NOTE: The choke shaft for the KT-series
Kohler carburetors have been discontinued.
L This one is made by Walbro and designed
for Walbro choke plates in a Walbro carburetor. If used in a Kohler carburetor,
the holes in the Kohler choke plate may need to be elongated to align with
the threaded holes in this shaft. And apply clean motor oil
or
lubricating grease on shaft before installing for smooth
choke operation and less wear to shaft and/or carburetor body.
Click here to learn how to
professionally remove Carter/Kohler throttle or choke plate soft brass retaining
screws without breaking them off.
 Choke Shaft w/"Upward Swing"
Lever for Kohler engine models KT17, KT17 series 2, MV16, M18, MV18, MV20
with the Kohler #26 or Walbro WHG #52 carburetor. 1/4" diameter hardened
bronze shaft with steel lever. Overall shaft length: 2-5/8". For carburetors
with following numbers stamped on mounting flange: 52 053 18, 52 053 21,
52 053 27, 52 053 32, 52 053 34, 52 053 47, 52 053 51, 52 053 54, 52 053
55, 52 053 59. Comes with screws and split lock washers. No threadlocker
required. NOTE: The choke shaft for the KT-series Kohler carburetors have
been discontinued. L This one is made
by Walbro and designed for Walbro choke plates in a Walbro carburetor. If
used in a Kohler carburetor, the holes in the Kohler choke plate may need
to be elongated to align with the threaded holes in this shaft. And apply
clean motor oil or
lubricating grease on shaft before installing for smooth
choke operation and less wear to shaft and/or carburetor body.
Click here to learn how to
professionally remove Carter/Kohler throttle or choke plate soft brass retaining
screws without breaking them off.
|
|||
 Choke Plate for
Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161 and K181/M8 with the Walbro
WHL #36, #44 or Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors.
|
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| IMPORTANT: For the K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 choke plates below Ê - If the wrong choke plate is used or mismatched with any particular size engine, due to the size and number of holes in the plate, the engine may become flooded too easily, resulting in either hard starting or a fouled spark plug. Or the engine may not receive enough fuel, resulting in hard starting. (None of these will happen with my remote fuel primer kit.) Also, Walbro and Carter/Kohler choke plates are not interchangeable. | |||
 Choke plates
for Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, KT17, KT17 series 2, KT19, KT19
series 2, or MV16, M18, MV18, M20 MV20 with the Carter/Kohler #26 carburetor.
Plate with spring-loaded valve was originally designed and made by the
Carter
Carburetor Corporation. Discontinued from Kohler many years ago.
L OEM Kohler part 235422.
|
|||
 Choke plate for
Kohler engine models K321/M14 with the Carter/Kohler #30 carburetor. No Kohler
part number available; discontinued from Kohler many years ago.
L
|
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 Choke plate for
Kohler engine models K341/M16 and K361 with the Carter/Kohler #30 carburetor.
No Kohler part number available; discontinued from Kohler many years ago.
L
|
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 Choke Plate for
Kohler Magnum engine models M10 and M12 with the Walbro WHG #52 carburetor.
62-129 stamped on plate.
|
|||
 Choke Plate for
Kohler engine models K321/M14 with the Walbro WHG #60, #64 carburetors. 62-128
stamped on plate.
|
|||
 Choke Plate for
Kohler engine models K341/M16 with the Walbro WHG #60, #64 carburetors. 62-124
stamped on plate.
|
|||
 Choke Plate for
Kohler Magnum engine models MV16, M18, MV18, M20 MV20, or KT17, KT17 series
2, KT19, KT19 series 2 with the Walbro WHG #52 carburetor. 62-114 stamped
on plate.
|
|||
 1/8" Diameter Choke
Friction (Detent) Ball for all Carter/Kohler #16, #18, #20, #22, #26, #28,
#30 and Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetors. NOTE: The detent ball and spring
is required for hand-operation of the choke to keep it in the open position
on stand-alone engines, such as a garden tiller, portable generator/welder,
portable air compressor, portable water pump, etc. If choke is operated by
a sliding remote wire cable control, such as in a lawn tractor, then the
ball and spring isn't needed and will serve no purpose.
|
|||
 Universal
Small Engine Remote Fuel Primer Kit. Safe to use and works flawlessly!
A must for a competition pulling tractor engine with no choke! With the fuel
bowl atmospheric vent opening plugged (air passageway from inside the float
bowl area to outside of carburetor), then with one or two pushes of the primer
bulb, air pressure within the carburetor float bowl forces fuel through the
main jet and out the nozzle, creating a slight flooding condition inside
the carburetor throttle bore allowing a cold engine to start quicker. With
this setup installed, the choke plate and shaft can be removed. No more binding
of remote solid wire choke cable and/or bent choke plate, or messy "hand
choking" of carburetor. The fuel baffle
splash shield is not needed with this setup. For ordinary lawn and garden
tractors, garden pulling tractors or virtually any small engine lawn and
garden or snow removal equipment with a choke plate on the carburetor. Works
with pump gas, race gas, E-85 or alcohol fuels. Kit includes primer bulb
assembly w/mounting nut and barbed hose fitting, 3' of 1/8" i.d. x 3/16"
o.d. clear vinyl hose, spring-loaded hose clamp, loop-type clamp and 1/8"
diameter x 1" length brass tube.
Click here for installation
instructions. An ingenious, thoroughly researched and innovative concept
by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this kit.
|
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  Vented Gas Caps for all IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractors
with a metal fuel tank, except AQS (Quiet Line) models 800, 1000, 1200, 1250,
1450, 1650, and all spread frame models with a plastic fuel tank. Also fits
larger Briggs & Stratton, Clinton, Tecumseh, Lauson, Wisconsin and other
makes of engines with a 1-3/4" diameter (measured across raised threads)
threaded filler neck on fuel tank.
|
|||
 Small Plastic In-Line
Fuel Filter. 1/4" barbed fittings. 1-3/8" diameter x 1-3/4" length. 75
micron.
For engines with gravity feed or fuel pump. Install before fuel pump to lessen
wear to pump valves.
|
 Large Plastic In-Line Fuel
Filter. 1/4" and 5/16" barbed fittings for 1/4" or 5/16" fuel hoses. 75
micron.
For engines with gravity feed or fuel pump. Install before fuel pump to lessen
wear to pump valves.
|
||
  Fuel Hose Clamps for 1/4" i.d. x 1/2" o.d. black neoprene rubber
reinforced fuel hose. Necessary when using a fuel pump for safety.
|
 Reinforced Black
Neoprene
Rubber Fuel Hose. Suitable for 100% gas, E85 or methanol fuels. Can withstand
up to 15 psi of pressure. 1/4" i.d. x 1/2" o.d. size.
|
||
 Straight Fuel Hose Fitting.
1/4" barbed fitting x 1/8" NPT male threads. Made of steel. Discontinued
from Kohler. L Replaces Kohler part # X-495-1.
|
 90º Fuel Hose Fitting.
1/4" barbed fitting x 1/8" NPT male threads. Made of steel. Kohler part #
25 155 02-S.
|
||
 Neoprene Rubber
Compression Sleeve for Metal Fuel Line. Replace dry-rooted or deteriorated
compression sleeve to prevent dangerous and hazardous fuel leak. Other parts
shown in drawing to the right have been discontinued from Kohler.
|
|||
 Fuel Hose
Conversion/Upgrade Kit
Do away with the old-fashioned sediment bowl/fuel filter and metal fuel line.
This conversion/upgrade kit includes 1/4" i.d. x 12" length reinforced black
fuel hose, small in-line fuel filter, one new straight 1/4" barbed fitting
x 1/8" NPT male threads fitting (threads into fuel tank), one new 90º
angled 1/4" barbed fitting x 1/8" NPT male threads fitting (threads into
carburetor) and four spring-type fuel hose clamps. This kit is for Kohler
engines with gravity feed and the fuel tank positioned higher than the
carburetor. The fuel hose is routed in a U-shape under carburetor. Filter
is to be installed just under fuel tank. An innovative concept by Brian
Miller, because nobody else advertise this kit.
|
|||
 Durable Plastic In-Line
Fuel Shut-Off Valve.
Alcohol
resistant neoprene seal. Fits 1/4" i.d. fuel hose. No filter. Lever rotates
90º OFF/ON position. Use for leaky carburetor or long-term storage to
prevent carburetor leaks, and required by certain pulling associations for
safety. Our part # 24-1036.
|
 Heavy Duty All Metal In-Line
Fuel Shut-Off Valve.
Alcohol
resistant neoprene seal. Fits 1/4" i.d. fuel hose. No filter. Lever rotates
90º OFF/ON position. Use for leaky carburetor or long-term storage to
prevent carburetor leaks, and required by certain pulling associations for
safety. Our part # 24-1166.
|
||
 Fuel Tank-Mounted
90º Angle Fuel Shut-Off Valve with fine mesh screen filter. Used on
certain Kohler engine models CH15, CH22, CH23, CH680, ECH730, K91, K141,
K161, K181, K241, K301, K341, M14 and M20. Also universal replacement part
for Gravely, Lawn-Boy, Snapper, Tecumseh, etc. Threads into bottom of fuel
tank. Has 1/8" NPT mounting threads and fits 1/4" i.d. fuel hose.
|
|||
 Neoprene Rubber Fuel Tank Bushing (Grommet) for Cub Cadet
AQS (Quiet Line) models and Kohler Magnum engines. Fittings and valves below
Ê plugs into this. Use oil or grease
for easy installation into 33/64" hole on bottom of fuel tank. For competition
pulling only, in addition to the fitting below
Ê, this part can also be used as a fuel
return system in fuel tank when burning methanol or diesel fuels. Replaces:
AMF 42690; Ariens 07509300, 07511400; Bolens 1738433; Briggs Power Products
78299GS, 80269GS; Exmark 1-513645; Ferris 22151; Kohler 25 313 01-S; Lawn-Boy
104047, 708331, 46-6560; MTD 735-0149, 1738433, 935-0149, 1903198, 1902479,
GW-1738433, GW-B1738433, 581615; Murray 42690; Noma 44847; Scag 48309; Simplicity
1654930; Snapper 12337, 74158, 7012337, 7074158; Tecumseh 33679; Toro 46-6560,
1-513645, E513645; Wheel Horse/Toro 104047; 104047P.
|
|||
 L-Shaped Fuel
Tank Plug-In Fitting w/o filter screen or shut-off valve for Cub Cadet "Quiet
Line" models and Kohler Magnum engines. 1/2" fitting fastens in neoprene
rubber bushing (above È) in bottom of
fuel tank. Use oil or grease for easy installation. 1/4" fuel hose fitting.
require in-line fuel filter. For competition pulling only, in addition to
the grommet above È, this part can also
be used as a fuel return system in fuel tank when burning methanol or diesel
fuels. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-109042-C2 (except w/o shut-off valve).
|
|||
 L-Shaped Fuel Tank
Plug-In Shut-Off Valve w/o filter screen for Cub Cadet AQS (Quiet Line) models
and Kohler Magnum engines. 1/2" fitting fastens in neoprene rubber bushing
(above È) in bottom of fuel tank. Use
oil or grease for easy installation. 1/4" fuel hose fitting. require in-line
fuel filter. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-109042-C2 and Kohler part # 25
462 01-S (except w/o filter screen).
|
|||
 L-Shaped Fuel
Tank Plug-In Shut-Off Valve w/filter screen for Kohler Magnum Engines and
Cub Cadet AQS (Quiet Line) models and Kohler Magnum engines. 1/2" fitting
fastens in neoprene rubber bushing (above
È) in bottom of fuel tank. Use oil or
grease for easy installation. 1/4" fuel hose fitting. In-line fuel filter
not required. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-109042-C2 (except w/filter screen).
|
|||
 1/8" NPT x 1/8"
NPT x 3/4" length [close] steel pipe connector. Use to fasten fuel shut-off
/filter/sediment bowl assembly (below) to fuel tank.
|
|||
 Fuel
Shut-Off/Filter/Sediment Bowl Assembly. Replacement for many older lawn and
garden engines. Filters fuel and separates water from gas. Threads into bottom
of fuel tank. Dimensions: Overall height: 3"; Maximum width (not including
shut-off valve): 1-3/4"; Thread fittings: inlet (top) and outlet (side) are
both 1/8" NPT. Complete assembly no longer available from Kohler. Use fuel
hose conversion/upgrade kit (above È)
instead if you wish. Fits Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104,
105, 106, 107, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127 and 147. Replaces: Kohler A-210101
(discontinued L); Briggs & Stratton 293964,
295913, 295977, 296005, 393169, 690612; Clinton 293-32-500, 293-32-5; Gravely
010313; John Deere PT4337; Tecumseh 24449, 24459, 32164, 32439, 32984, 32984A,
34279, 34279A, 34279B; Wisconsin LP43.
|
|||
 O-ring seal for shut-off
valve shaft in fuel shut-off/filter/sediment bowl assembly above
È. Replace dry-rotted O-ring or leather
packing which can cause leaking fuel. Made of
alcohol
resistant
neoprene
rubber. Dimensions: 1/16" x 1/8" x 1/4".
|
 Fuel Shut-Off Valve for
Filter/Sediment Bowl Assembly above È.
Includes
alcohol
resistant
neoprene
rubber O-ring seal.
|
||
 Gasket (Seal) for fuel
shut-off/filter/sediment bowl assembly above
È. Made of
alcohol
resistant
neoprene
rubber. Dimensions: 1-1/2" o.d. x 1-1/4" i.d. x .060" thickness.
|
 Fine Mesh Brass Screen
Filter/Strainer for Fuel Sediment Bowl Assembly above
È. 1-1/4" o.d.
|
||
 Replacement glass
bowl for fuel shut-off/filter/sediment bowl assembly above
È. Dimensions: 1-1/2" maximum width
x 1-1/8" height. Replaces: Briggs & Stratton # 298683; John Deere # PT4271.
|
|||
Pleated Air Filters and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters -
| If you need any of the parts or services listed below
Ê, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136
USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313
(shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays),
9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When
speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's
shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends (except Holidays).
Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest.
Please click here
to place an order. |
|
 8-32 UNC x 3/8"
thread length Phillips Head Screws. Use to fasten air filter housing base
to Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 and Walbro WHL #44 carburetors.
10-32 UNF size. For rethreading or cutting new threads in choke flange of Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors for mounting of air cleaner base or velocity stack. $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Many other small screw sizes and taps available at reasonable prices. |
|
 Aluminum Bright
Cadmium-Plated Self-Locking Wingnut with Nylon Insert. Suitable for side-mounted
air cleaner covers and battery hold-down studs. 1/4-20 UNC threads. High
quality aftermarket. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Steel Wingnut with Rubber Seal. 1/4-20 UNC threads. Suitable for top-mounted air cleaner covers to prevent water from entering intake. 1/4-20 UNC threads. OEM Kohler part # 25 100 15-S. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
|
  Pleated Air Filter Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters
for certain Kohler K-series engine models K91, K141, K161 and K181.
Non-restricting flame retardant filter. Performance engineered for increased
breathing. Air filter: Kohler 230840-S; Cub Cadet 385163R2; Clinton 002-0233-00;
Gravely 20299; John Deere AM31034; Massey 1035-991-M1; Tecumseh 30804. Prefilter:
Kohler 234870-S; John Deere AM31034; Massey Ferguson 1035-991. Air filter
element dimensions (±): 4-3/8" o.d. x 3" i.d. x 1-1/2" overall height.
NOTE: To clean the foam wrap prefilter, use cleaning solvent (paint thinner) and 150± psi compressed air, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because some of the oil could get drawn into the paper element while the engine is running, partially clogging it. |
|
 Pleated Air Filters and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters for
certain Kohler K-series engine model K181. Non-restricting flame retardant
filter. Performance engineered for increased breathing. Air filter: Kohler
231847-S; Cub Cadet 548436R1; Gravely 15373; John Deere AM30800; Tecumseh
31925; Onan 140-1188, 140-188; Rol Air 431. Prefilter: Kohler 234869-S
(K-series), 41 083 04-S (Magnum). Air filter element dimensions (±):
4-3/8" o.d. x 3" i.d. x 2-5/16" overall height.
NOTE: To clean the foam wrap prefilter, use cleaning solvent (paint thinner) and 150± psi compressed air, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because some of the oil could get drawn into the paper element while the engine is running, partially clogging it. |
|
  Pleated Air Filter
Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters for various Kohler engine
models K141, K161, K181/M8, K241/M10, K301/M12 and K321/M14 with the
short round air filter housing
assembly. Non-restricting flame retardant filter. Performance engineered
for increased breathing. Air filter: Kohler 235116-S, 25 883 03-S1 (kit);
Cub Cadet 385168R2. Prefilter: Kohler 237421-S (K-series), 45 083 01-S (Magnum).
Air filter element dimensions (±): 6" o.d. x 4-11/16" i.d. x 1-7/8"
overall height.
NOTE: To clean the foam wrap prefilter, use cleaning solvent (paint thinner) and 150± psi compressed air, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because some of the oil could get drawn into the paper element while the engine is running, partially clogging it. |
|
 Pleated Air Filter
Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters for certain Kohler and Magnum
engine models K241, K301, K321, K341, CH11-15, KT17, KT19, and M18-20 engines
with the oblong-shaped air
filter housing assembly. Fits Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) series engines
in Cub Cadet models 680, 1000, 1050, 1200, 1204, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450 and
1650. Non-restricting flame retardant filter. Performance engineered for
increased breathing. Air filter: Kohler 47 083 01-S, 47 883 01-S1 (kit);
Cub Cadet 117210-C1, 759-3547, 959-3547; Gravely 032494, John Deere M83646,
Lesco 012596. Prefilter: Kohler 52 083 01-S. Air filter element dimensions
(±): 7" o.d. x 5-1/2" i.d. x 1-3/4" overall height.
NOTE: To clean the foam wrap prefilter, use cleaning solvent (paint thinner) and 150± psi compressed air, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because some of the oil could get drawn into the paper element while the engine is running, partially clogging it. |
|
 Pleated Air Filter
Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters for Kohler engine models K341,
CH18-25, CV18-22, KT17 series 2, KT19 series 2 and M18-20 engines with the
oblong-shaped air filter housing
assembly. Fits Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) series engines. Non-restricting
flame retardant filter. Performance engineered for increased breathing. Air
filter: Kohler 47 083 03-S, 47 883 03-S1 (kit); John Deere M47494 (fits JD
models 200, 210, 212, 214, 216, 300, 312, 314, 316, 400); Woods 71803. Prefilter:
Kohler 41 083 04-S. Air filter element dimensions (±): 7" o.d. x
5-1/2" i.d. x 2-7/16" overall height.
NOTE: To clean the foam wrap prefilter, use cleaning solvent (paint thinner) and 150± psi compressed air, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because some of the oil could get drawn into the paper element while the engine is running, partially clogging it. |
|
 Neoprene Rubber
Seal for Air Cleaner Cover to Base. Reduces air intake noise. For following
Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) engine models K181, K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14,
K341/M16, K532 and K582. 28-1/4" length x 1/2" wide. NOTE: A 3/16" i.d.
automotive vacuum hose or fuel hose can be split open lengthways and be used
instead. OEM Kohler part # 47 032 03-S.
|
 Neoprene Rubber Tube for
Air Cleaner Base to Flywheel Housing. Reduces air intake noise. For following
Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16,
KT17, M18, M20, K532 and K582. OEM Kohler part # 47 134 02-S.
|
 Pleated Air Filter
Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters for certain Kohler engine
models M8, K321/M14, K341/M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20 with the
tall round air filter housing
assembly. Can also
be used on a garden pulling tractor, mini rods, hot rods, race cars, etc.
with an automotive engine. Non-restricting flame retardant filter. Performance
engineered for increased breathing. Air filter: Kohler 45 083 02-S, 45 883
02-S1 (kit); Cub Cadet 759-3359. Prefilter: Kohler 45 083 01-S. Air filter
element dimensions (±): 6" o.d. x 4-11/16" i.d. x 3" overall height.
NOTE: To clean the foam wrap prefilter, use cleaning solvent (paint thinner) and 150± psi compressed air, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because some of the oil could get drawn into the paper element while the engine is running, partially clogging it. |
|
 Pleated Air Filter Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters
for certain Kohler engine models K241, K301, K341, K482, K532 and K582 with
the tall round air filter housing
assembly. Can also
be used on mini rods, hot rods, race cars, etc. with an automotive engine.
Non-restricting flame retardant filter. Performance engineered for increased
breathing. Air filter: Kohler 277138-S. Prefilter: Kohler 277593-S. Air
filter element dimensions (±): 6" o.d. x 4-3/4" i.d. x 4" overall
height.
NOTE: To clean the foam wrap prefilter, use cleaning solvent (paint thinner) and 150± psi compressed air, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because some of the oil could get drawn into the paper element while the engine is running, partially clogging it. |
|
| NOTE: Air filters and prefilters are available for many other makes and models of engines. If you need something that's not listed here, please contact me with your engine model and spec numbers and I'll see if I can get it at a reasonable price. | |
How To Convert a Carter/Kohler Carburetor For High Performance Use At
Any Engine RPM -
By boring out the venturi (the smallest part of a throttle bore) and reworking the Carter/Kohler carburetor, this will "open up the carburetor" and allow the engine to draw more air into the combustion chamber so it can build up more compression, which will allow it to produce more power. (It'll be like going from a small 2-barrel carburetor to a large 4-barrel carburetor on a V8 automotive engine.) Although the below is considered "Old School" by today's standards, it has been proven to help the engine produce more horsepower and torque on the dynamometer (dyno), and allow the tractor to pull much stronger on the track, and it equals the performance of the popular and high dollar recast (Kohler) carburetors.
Use a reamer or large drill
bit of a specific diameter to bore the venturi. Enlarge the venturi to either
a limit of .995" or 1", make it a straight-through design (to match the diameter
of the throttle bore) or enlarge it to whatever your club's sanctioning rules
allow. Turn the cutting tool at a slow speed, and apply a
continuous spray of WD-40 while boring the venturi to create a smooth,
slick surface in the throttle bore.
Grind
an angle on the end of the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube). To do this correctly
so the engine will accelerate with no hesitation whatsoever...
Due to normal engine vibration
at high RPM, plug the original atmospheric vent opening (air passageway from
inside the float bowl area to outside of carburetor) and then drill a 3/32"
hole on the side of the carburetor body in alignment with the atmospheric
vent opening (air passageway from inside the float bowl area to outside of
carburetor) in case of gas overflow and/or so the engine won't possibly run
erratically rich on fuel. Or for safety and convenience, leave out the choke
shaft and plate, plug the choke shaft holes, and install a
remote fuel primer kit as described further down in
this website.
With a bored-out venturi, the
engine will obviously draw more air and require more fuel. To prevent the
engine from starving for fuel at high RPM, offset the level of the float
upward. To adjust it correctly, with the carburetor body turned upside-down,
set the float so it will be downward. This will permit the float to drop
down more as fuel level decreases, allowing the float valve to open further
so more fuel will enter the float bowl. See the drawing to the right.
à
On the throttle shaft, grind
the area opposite the throttle plate until the shaft is about 1/16" thickness
so more air can pass around the shaft at high RPM, but leave the screw holes
"lumped up" to prevent stripping the threads and to maintain strength in
the shaft. See photo to the right. à
How to Easily Convert the Carter/Kohler
#26, #28 or #30 Carburetors to the Bottom High Speed Air/Fuel Adjuster
- An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because
nobody else advertise this type of foolproof conversion.
Top of page
This conversion has been proven many times to function
flawlessly for a high RPM or wide open throttle competition pulling
engine. The bottom high speed air/fuel adjuster is not an OEM Kohler part
and not a modification by Kohler. It provides no high-performance enhancements
or "added horsepower" to the engine whatsoever. This part is an absolute
must for a competition pulling engine that runs at very high RPM or wide
open throttle. It provides no high-performance engine enhancements whatsoever.
It's an add-on feature that replaces the OEM float bowl retaining bolt only
to prevent wearing or enlarging the fuel suction hole (orifice) in the main
jet by the OEM high speed needle adjuster due to normal engine vibration
at very high RPM or wide open throttle engine operations. (Whoever says that
the use of this part will increase the performance of an engine obviously
do not know what they are talking about, or they are in the business of selling
new main jet/nozzles, which can be very difficult to remove.) Rather the
main jet/nozzle can be easily removed with a screwdriver or drilled into
and chiseled out. (If not done carefully, damage to the carburetor could
result, rendering it useless.) Also, with a bored-out venturi, a 60º
angle would need to be precisely ground on the end of the nozzle in exact
alignment with the centerline of the throttle bore so engine vacuum will
draw fuel through the main jet/nozzle immediately upon acceleration.
Due to normal engine vibration at high RPM or wide open throttle operation, the pointed tip on the OEM top high speed air/fuel needle adjuster will "severely vibrate around" inside the lower hole (orifice) in the main jet/nozzle. The tip of the flexible brass needle adjuster will wear the main jet hole (orifice) larger, eventually causing the engine to run rich on fuel, and over time as the hole (orifice) wears even larger, will make further lean adjustments impossible. This will happen with gas or alcohol fuels. There is no way to prevent this from happening except convert the carburetor to the bottom high speed air/fuel adjuster. And when the carburetor is reworked with the venturi bored-out (straight-through throttle bore design) for high performance use, it equals the performance of the popular "Super Carb" carburetor. (Which I think is a very fine performance carburetor.) Also, if you're wondering if the presence of the OEM high speed adjuster tube will slow the incoming airflow through the "straight through" throttle bore, well, the throttle plate and shaft are about 30% wider than the high speed adjuster tube, even with the throttle shaft ground or machined thin to increase the air flow.
How to Convert a Carburetor to the Bottom High Speed Air/Fuel Adjuster:
Information About the Carburetor Extension, Spacer, Intake Tube, Stand-Off, (or whatever they may be called) and Fuel Atomization - (Updated 3/20/17)
Spacing the carburetor away from the engine block allows the
fuel to atomize better (break down into a fine mist) so the engine will produce
more power and torque at higher RPM. The further the carburetor is spaced,
the better the fuel will atomize.
When choosing the length of an intake tube, it seems that a 3" length works best for gas, and 5" length works best for E85 or methanol. Because gas runs more lean than E85 or methanol, it require less space or distance to fully atomize, and being E85 and methanol fuels run richer, they need more space or distance to fully atomize before they enter the combustion chamber.
For competition pulling, if no [long] intake tube is to be used with the carburetor, a heat isolator gasket will work great. (Manufactured of heat-resistant phenolic resin.) The heat isolator gasket isolates the carburetor from engine heat so the fuel will atomize better (break down into smaller particles) before it enters the combustion chamber, which will help the engine produce more power and torque.
In addition, "roughing up" the inside of the carburetor extension, spacer, intake tube or stand-off will help create turbulence to "break up" and atomize the fuel better and should help a Kohler engine produce a few more ponies. This works for automotive engines, and it should work for Kohler engines, too.
Also for competition pulling, with a carburetor extension in use, mounting gaskets are not necessary. Just resurface the ends of the extension (if needed) and carburetor mounting flange on a wide, flat belt- or disc-sander to remove warpage and restore flatness (use eye protection!), and then apply a thin bead of Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant with no gasket. When the bolts or nuts (on studs) are tightened, the softness of a gasket could cause the carburetor flange to warp and possibly break. With no gasket, there will be metal to metal contact with the silicone filling in the open gaps between the two metals, and there is NO WAY the flange can warp or possibly break! By the way - I've always preferred to use Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant for three reasons: Gaskets don't always seal the irregularities between mating metals, especially thin metal covers; being it's an adhesive, it bonds parts together, forming a leak-proof seal; and being it's clear, it makes for a clean and professional-looking repair job. When applied sparingly, it can't be easily seen or noticed between the parts. Return To Previous Paragraph
Use a Bigger Air Filter
on a Pulling Engine -
If an engine has a carburetor with a bored-out venturi, bigger ports, bigger valves, a big cam and it runs at wide open throttle, then it will definitely benefit from use of a bigger air filter. All of these things will undoubtedly allow an engine to draw in a lot more air at high RPM. If rules require that the engine must have an air filter, stack two air filters on top of each other (install a longer mounting stud, too), or use an OEM K341/K361 or opposed (flathead) twin cylinder air filter housing assembly (they're twice as tall than the K241, K301 and K321 air filter) or install a velocity stack and use an aftermarket K&N air filter. The bigger air filter is so free-flowing and less restrictive, using an air filter this size would the same as not using an air filter all. The shorter K241, K301 and K321 air filter housing assembly is too restrictive for wide open throttle operation. But if it's a basically stock engine with a stock carburetor, stock size ports and valves, and a stock cam, there'll be very little gained with a bigger air filter. If you pull on a lot of dusty tracks, then it would be worth investing in an air filter to save wear on the engine.
How to repair stripped air cleaner base mounting screw holes in a Carter,
Kohler #26, #28, #30 or Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetor. - An
ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise
these repair procedures.
(Updated 5/5/17)
Method #1: On a Kohler #26 or #30 carburetor with five air cleaner base mounting screw holes (AQS [Quiet Line] models), if the two lower holes (located at the 4:00 and 8:00 positions) are stripped out but not overly enlarged, drill all the way through these two holes, and if the threads in the upper hole (12:00 position) is also stripped, drill about 3/4" deeper in this hole, then cut new 10-32 UNF threads deep in the drilled holes, and then use longer 10-32 UNF screws with lock washers to fasten the air cleaner base to the carburetor.
Method #2: Do this when the holes are too big for 10-32 UNF screws are described above, Heli-Coil thread inserts, or even 12-24 UNC screws will not fix the problem. It takes expert mechanical skills to make the below method work. I have done this many times and it works great.
Parts needed:
Several inches of 1/4-20 UNC
mild steel threaded rod. If the holes in the carburetor body are already
1/4", then use 5/16-18 UNC mild steel threaded rod. (All Thread,
long threaded rod or long threaded bolt.) NOTE: 5/16" is the maximum
that can fit.
1/4" x 2"+ long solid aluminum
rod.
When removing the choke shaft, there's a tiny
(1/8" or 5/32") steel ball and small compression spring located at the 9:00
position when facing the choke end with the float area down. When the choke
shaft is removed, hold one finger over the screw hole and end of the choke
shaft hole to prevent the ball and spring from popping out and possibly getting
lost. By the way - the ball and spring is required for hand-operation of
the choke to keep it in the open position on stand-alone engines, such as
on a garden tiller, portable generator/welder, portable air compressor, portable
water pump, etc. If choke is remotely solid wire cable-operated, such as
in a tractor, then the ball and spring isn't needed.
Drill an 11/64" hole through the
insert(s). For accuracy, it's best to use a drill press or milling machine
to do this. Heat from the drilling process
may cause the threadlocker material to loosen, which could cause the insert
to thread down in the choke shaft hole. To prevent the insert from unthreading,
insert the 1/4" aluminum rod through the choke shaft holes so the insert
will bottom out against the aluminum. Allow the drill bit to penetrate the
aluminum slightly to go the full length of the insert. And to lessen the
chance of overheating the threadlocker material when drilling the hole, use
plenty of cutting oil, and drill slowly into hole(s) with a 5/32" drill bit,
then finish with the 11/64" bit. Use sharp (preferably new) drill bits,
too.
Advertisement:
| If you need the air cleaner mounting threads repaired in your carburetor,
please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd.
| Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am
to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When
speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's
shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends (except Holidays).
Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. Go here for more parts:
Carburetor, Fuel System Parts & Machine Shop
Services |
Please click here to place
an order.
Repair stripped 10-32 UNF air filter housing mounting threaded hole(s). $10.00 - $20.00 for parts and labor. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this repair service. |
Never Over-Tighten the Mounting Bolts or Use Multiple Gaskets When Fastening the Carburetor to the Engine! (Updated 11/26/16)
When installing
the carburetor to an engine, the use of two or more gaskets and then torquing
the mounting bolts to specs, or just over-tightening the bolts will severely
warp the mounting flange on a carburetor, causing it to bend, which will
create a vacuum leak, or worse yet, being cast aluminum don't bend or flex
too easily, the flange could break. So remember, before installing any
carburetor, first resurface the mounting flange on a wide, flat
belt- or disc-sander to remove warpage and restore flatness,
and for general lawn and garden use, install just one thin (.030" thickness)
gasket or one (3/16" thickness) heat isolator gasket. And use the "two-bolt
torque" procedure! To do this, lightly tighten the first bolt, then lightly
tighten the second bolt. And tighten the first bolt securely, and then tighten
the second bolt securely. Or a shallow groove can be machined in the mounting
flange of the carburetor for a reusable small cross-sectional rubber O-ring.
No gasket or silicone will be needed.
If a Carter/Kohler or Walbro carburetor body is broken and/or damaged beyond repair, the carburetor body is 100% scrap metal. (If the threads for the float bowl retaining bolt are stripped, read below. ) But the parts on the carburetor body are considered valuable and can be used on another carburetor body that's in good condition (if some of the parts are in fact reusable). Parts such as: throttle and choke shafts and plates, choke friction (detent) ball and spring, idle speed adjusting screw and spring, idle fuel mixture screw and spring, high speed air/fuel needle adjuster and spring, main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube), fuel inlet valve and seat (if not worn and leaks fuel), float, float pin, float bowl, neoprene rubber O-ring seal, fuel baffle splash shield, bowl retaining screw, and fuel hose fitting. The OEM (US) manufacturers are phasing out many parts for flathead engines due to EPA smog emissions. But some parts may still be available in aftermarket.
How to Repair Stripped Float Bowl Retaining Bolt Threads in a Carter/Kohler
or Walbro Carburetor - An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian
Miller, because nobody else mentions these type of repairs.
But if the threads
for the float bowl retaining bolt are stripped in a Carter #16, #18, #20,
#22 carburetor, an 8mm fine thread (M8 x 1.25 pitch) metric bolt can be used.
But if the metric threads become stripped, then a 3/8-24 UNF bowl retaining
bolt (for the Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 or Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG
#52, #60, #64 carburetors) can be used. For the 8mm metric bolt, an 8mm x
1.25
bottom hand tap will need to be used. But for a 3/8-24
bolt, the stripped hole will need to be enlarged with a 21/64" drill bit
(be careful not to drill into the main jet; there's no need to remove the
main jet/nozzle), and new threads will need to be cut
perpendicular
to the carburetor body with a 3/8-24 UNF
bottom hand tap. A bottom tap cuts the threads deeper with
very little taper at the end. Do not complete the tapping process with just
a taper or plug tap because the threads may not go deep enough for the bigger
bolt. However, the threads can be started with a taper or plug tap, but will
need to be finished with the bottom tap. Then use [150± psi] compressed
air to thoroughly clear out the metal drilling/cuttings from the main jet/nozzle
(emulsion tube) and entire carburetor! A 3/8" i.d. fiber washer will need
to be used with the 3/8" bolt, and the hole in the float bowl will need to
be drilled out to 3/8" to match the bolt in the carburetor, or use a float
bowl with a 3/8" hole. And do not over-tighten the metric bolt to prevent
from stripping the new threads. If the metric threads strips out, the carburetor
body is scrap metal.
If the threads for the float
bowl retaining bolt are stripped in a Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30, Walbro
WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 or virtually any other carburetor that
use a 3/8"-24 UNF float bowl retaining bolt, a 10mm fine thread (M10 x 1.25
pitch) x 3/8" thread length bolt can be used. If a 3/8" length metric bolt
can't be found, a longer bolt that's made of mild steel can be machined down
(shortened) in a metal lathe. Being the stripped hole is already large enough
for the M10 x 1.25 threads to be cut, so it won't need to be drilled out.
But if it does need drilling out (enlarging), use an 8.8 mm or 11/32" drill
bit (be careful not to drill into the main jet; there's no need to remove
the main jet/nozzle), then new threads will need to be cut
perpendicular
to the carburetor body with a M10 x 1.25
bottom hand tap. A bottom tap cuts the threads deeper
with very little taper at the end. Do not complete the tapping process with
just a taper or plug tap because the threads may not go deep enough for the
metric bolt. However, the threads can be started with a taper or plug tap,
but will need to be finished with the bottom tap. Then use [150± psi]
compressed air to thoroughly clear out the metal drilling/cuttings from the
main jet/nozzle and entire carburetor! Also, the holes in the fiber washer
and in the float bowl for the retaining bolt will need to be enlarged to
13/32" to match the bolt in the carburetor. And do not over-tighten the metric
bolt to prevent from stripping the new threads. If the metric threads strips
out, the carburetor body is scrap metal. But save everything off of it because
they can be used on another carburetor body that's in good condition.
On a used (and supposedly clean) carburetor, if the float bowl
retaining bolt will not effortlessly tighten against the float bowl to secure
it in place, DO NOT FORCE THE BOLT TO TIGHTEN! Doing this may cause the thin-wall
metal to split, possibly rendering the carburetor useless. The resistance
in threading the bolt in the hole is caused by debris "gumming up" the threads
in the carburetor body (or in the threads of the bolt). Instead, clean the
threads in the carburetor body with a 3/8-24 UNF BOTTOM hand tap, then use
150± psi compressed air to clear out the debris. With a bottom tap,
there's no need to remove the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube). But if the
protruding part where the float bowl bolt threads into is previously cracked
or does split, a spring-loaded 1/2" fuel hose clamp can be installed over
the protruding part with the opening in the clamp opposite the crack. This
will reinforce the aluminum, squeeze the tube back to its original size and
prevent the crack from spreading when the bolt is tightened. After the clamp
is installed, grind the protruding tangs flush with the clamp so they will
not make contact with and interfere with the operation of the float. The
clamp will then become a permanent part of the carburetor. And if any part
of the clamp blocks off the fuel feed holes, a new 3/32" fuel feed hole will
need to be drilled through the opening in the clamp so fuel from the float
bowl can reach the main jet/nozzle. This size hole should be big enough to
allow plenty of fuel to enter through the main jet. An ingenious and
innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this type
of repair.
Advertisement:
| If you need the repair service provided below, please contact A-1
Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO
(Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am
to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When
speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's
shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends (except Holidays).
Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. Go here for more parts:
Carburetor, Fuel System Parts & Machine Shop
Services |
Please click here to place
an order.
Repair stripped threads in float bowl retaining bolt hole for Carter #16, #18, #20, #22, Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 or Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this repair service.
|
Fabricate a Foolproof Type of Foot-Operated Spring-Loaded Throttle Return Control Setup on a Pulling Tractor - Top of page
For a fancy and noticeable gas pedal, install a chrome-plated,
die-cast aluminum "barefoot" pedal. These were popular in the late '60s to
early '70s as a nostalgic item used mainly on street rod and hot rod vehicles.
They're available on
eBay. Use a medium size household brass door hinge to
fasten the pedal to the foot rest on the tractor.
When using a Carter or Kohler
carburetor, a spring-loaded throttle control is a safety feature because
the engine will idle down as soon as the driver lets off the gas pedal, just
like in an automobile. But with the OEM-type, manually-operated sliding solid
wire throttle control, the driver must quickly reach for the throttle lever
to idle down the engine. Many club's rules (including the
HRGTPA's rules) state
that a spring-loaded throttle control must be used for safety, either hand-
or foot-operated (hand lever or foot pedal). All Mikuni carburetors have
a built-in spring-loaded throttle return.
When using the sliding stranded cable housing to operate the
throttle, for the cable to slide back and forth in the housing with less
friction, pull the inner cable from the housing (with one end [ball] cut
off), and use a
chainsaw bar tip grease gun to pump a small amount of lubricant
inside the housing so the inner cable will operate much smoother and last
longer. But before reinstalling the cable in the housing, to prevent the
end of the cable from unraveling,
singe
the end of the cable with a
propane torch or an
oxy-acetylene torch with a small, blue flame, or use
electrical solder and
soldering gun to bind the wires together (make sure the
cable is absolutely clean), and then grind down the lump [of metal or solder]
so the cable can be inserted in the housing and wire swivel easier.
To fabricate the steel rod throttle
linkage and levers, run a 3/16" diameter steel rod from the pedal, up to
a bell crank (lever), then fasten the lever to a 5/16" diameter steel rod.
Run the rod through the steering column support and then fabricate another
bell crank (lever) on the other end of the 5/16" rod (other side of the tractor),
and connect that to another 3/16" diameter steel rod which goes forward and
attaches to the throttle lever on the carburetor.
I made our own bell cranks (or levers) from 1/2" x 1/8" x about 2" length mild steel. I simply drilled a hole in each end (3/16" and 5/16") and clamped one end of the lever with a locknut on the 5/16" rod so I can loosen the nuts to make adjustments as necessary, and the other hole in the lever is for the 3/16" rod. Install a lightweight return spring from the pedal to the tractor frame. And look your tractor over to determine where the holes should be drilled through the steering column support. Just don't drill the holes where the steering column will be in the way. This setup cannot be used with Mikuni carburetors because Mikuni carburetors are stranded cable-operated only.
If fabricated correctly, and properly installed and adjusted, I believe that this type of throttle control is absolutely the best design. There's very little wear to the moving parts and it will never fail on virtually any tractor. It works much better and with less friction than the stranded cable design. There's no sliding stranded cable that can bind, fray and eventually break, causing one to lose a good pull. And being virtually all tractors are different in design, I offer no kits for these. You'll have to fabricate your own. And the reason foot pedals are more popular than hand throttles is because both hands are needed on the steering wheel to control the tractor as it's going down the track.
Oh, and if you've ever wondered what a "dead man's throttle" is, it's a spring-loaded hand lever or foot pedal throttle control that automatically returns the throttle plate to the idle position when the pressure is released. It works the same as the gas pedal in a car.
Wide Open Throttle Sliding Stranded Cable Control Setup for K241-K341 Kohler Engines - (Changed 5/29/16)
This proven and well thought-out design allows the sliding stranded cable to be connected to the carburetor from the exhaust end of the engine, with the cable housing mounted well above the hot header pipe. This design places less pressure and friction on the throttle shaft/bushing, which reduce wear. NOTE: Remove the inner stranded cable from the housing, and use a chainsaw bar tip grease gun to pump a small amount of lubricant inside housing so the cable will slide easier with less friction. Return To Previous Paragraph or Section | Top of page
How to Repair the Vacu-Jet (3hp) and Pulsa-Jet (3.5 or 4hp) Automatic Choke Carburetor on a Vertical Shaft Briggs & Stratton Flathead Engine - Top of page
First of all, don't believe
all factory-trained, brain-washed technicians. Because sometimes one must
improvise to make something work. And despite what the service manual says,
using a large, flat file to make the warped surface of a carburetor and/or
fuel tank flat again will not hurt anything if a skillful person does it
and if he/she knows what they're doing. B&S wants to make more money
by selling new parts. That's why they write their manuals the way they do.
Remember the old saying: "A fool and their money are soon parted." B&S
probably laugh all the way to the bank after making a sale, too.
The Vacu-Jet carburetor operates off of engine vacuum to delivery fuel to the engine. (The very first Vacu-Jet carburetors have a manual choke, and no diaphragm. The second design Vacu-Jet carburetor uses a diaphragm, and have a manual choke. The third design Vacu-Jet uses a diaphragm and has an automatic choke.) And the Pulsa-Jet has a built-in fuel pump to delivery fuel to the engine. Both of the [newest design] Vacu-Jet and Pulsa-Jet carburetors have an automatic choke. If either of these carburetors run rich on fuel, and the choke will not open after starting, what has happened is where the carburetor is fastened to the fuel tank, these two "mating surfaces" has become warped. This is caused by over-tightening of the air filter housing screw. To fix this...
After resurfacing, use a
hacksaw blade to recut (or deepen) the shallow groove from the choke bellow
well to the vacuum port. Doing this will allow the choke plate to open
immediately when the engine starts. Failure to do this will allow the choke
plate to open very slowly or not open at all, which will cause the engine
to flood out and die.
How to Repair the Pulsa-Jet Carburetor on a Vertical or Horizontal Shaft 5hp Briggs & Stratton Flathead Engine -
If a 5hp B&S engine has excellent spark and adequate compression, but doesn't run right, then the problem is obviously in the carburetor. To fix the problem...
Install a new fuel pump
diaphragm, carburetor to tank gasket and carburetor to block gasket, set
the fuel mixture adjustment screw about 1-½ turns out, and make the
final adjustment after the engine runs.
How to clean the main jet in a 16hp/18hp flathead opposed (flathead) twin cylinder Briggs & Stratton engine -
The main jet is located in the float bowl of the carburetor. To access and clean it...
Your engine should rev up without using the choke afterwards! This may have to be done every few years because these type of carburetors are notorious for having tiny particles of dirt/debris that passes through the fuel filter settle at the bottom of the float bowl. The main jet is real close to the bottom of the float bowl too, which allows dirt/debris to clog it over time.
Advertisement:
| If you wish to have your Kohler stock or pulling engine
tested on a
dynamometer
(dyno), please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old
Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am
to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When
speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's
shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends (except Holidays).
Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest.
A-1 Miller's Fully Computerized Stuska Water Brake Engine Dynamometer (Dyno) Service!
Engine Dyno Rental Fee: $30.00 per hour run time from the moment the engine is started. No setup fee for Cub Cadet engines with a 3- or 6-pin/stud clutch driver. An adapter may need to be needed or fabricated for other makes and models of engines. Only engines with the narrow base oil pan can be tested. Engines with the wide base (tall) oil pan cannot be tested at this time. |
To place an order and/or for technical assistance, please contact:
A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia,
MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday
(except Holidays), 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try
again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends
(except Holidays). Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for
your arrival. Fax:
1-573-449-7347. E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who
don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and
fragile merchandise, you can always make the
long drive to A-1 Miller's shop
to personally drop off and/or pick up your engine, transaxle, tractor, etc.
"The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long."
To place an order, please call the number below Ê or send an email with your name, complete and correct postal address and phone number and so I can figure the total with shipping cost and USPS Tracking. For payment, I accept cash (in person), Postal money orders or cashier's checks made out in my name, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express and Western Union Money Transfer. (If a part for a specific purpose is special ordered, your debit/credit card may be charged for the full amount or as a deposit right after your order is placed; please do not send your debit/credit card information in email!) Or you can pay me through PayPal. (My PayPal account name is my email address. And be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment is for.) If sending a money order, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone number and a description of what the payment is for. My mailing address and phone number are below Ê . I'll make a note of your order, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send the parts to you as soon as I have everything in stock after I receive your payment.
IMPORTANT - When sending your part(s) to me for rebuilding or repair, package everything securely so the item(s) won't get damaged in shipping and please include a note in the box with your name, mailing address, phone number (in case I have any questions) and a description of what you want done. When shipping heavy parts, it's best to put a slightly smaller box inside a larger box, to double the strength and integrity of the package. Because the clumsy "gorillas" or incompetent and uncaring workers that work for certain delivery services mishandle the heavy packages and don't care. And when the work is completed, I'll either call or email you an invoice with the total including shipping and handling.
To figure the shipping cost, I weigh the package with the parts, then I go online to the USPS Postage Rate Calculator website. I type in the weight, my zip code and your zip code, then it shows me the prices for various ways to ship the package. I always choose US Postal Service because I believe that's the most fastest, economical and reliable method.
Shipping: (United States and it's territories)
To save you shipping charges, item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope
weighing less than 13 oz. is sent by First Class Mail for a 2-6 day delivery.
Most packaged item(s) weighing over 13 oz. is sent by US Priority Mail for
a 2-3 day delivery. To save you even more on shipping heavy items, I always
try to use the US Postal Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelope and boxes
(if the item(s) can fit inside the envelope or boxes). Some heavy items weighing
no more than 70 lbs. is sent by US Mail Parcel Post. Item(s) weighing over
70 lbs. is sent by FedEx Ground. Again, if you're the kind of person who
don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and
fragile merchandise, you can always make the
long drive to A-1 Miller's shop
to personally drop off and/or pick up your engine, transaxle, tractor, etc.
Ship to Canada and Worldwide
þüý -
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent
by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged
item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service
Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal
Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S.
territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground
or equivalent services.
(When placing an order through PayPal, please provide a list of which
parts you need.)
To make a payment to me through PayPal, go to PayPal's secure website ( https://www.paypal.com/ ) and click on Send and Request -> Pay for goods or services. Type in my email address, or copy and paste this: pullingtractor@aol.com, the amount and follow the directions. Be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment is for. After you've finished, PayPal will send me an email notifying me that you have made a payment to me for the product(s) or services and amount entered. Then I go to their website and direct PayPal to deposit the money in my bank account. And I will send the parts to you as soon as I receive your payment. But I may have to order some of the parts if they're not in stock, which should take a few days. In that case, I will send you the parts as soon as they come in. PayPal protects your financial privacy and security. With PayPal, privacy is built in. It's a way for you to pay without exposing their financial information.
à Return to Main Pulling Tips Page | Return To Previous Page | Reputable Garden Pulling Tractor Engine Builders, Parts Suppliers and Service Providers | Hot Links to Reputable Garden Tractor Pulling Clubs and Associations | Top of Page
Copyright © 1996-Present. This website created, designed and maintained by Brian Miller.
8-32 UNC
x 3/8" thread length Phillips Head Screws. Use to fasten air filter housing
base to Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 and Walbro WHL #44 carburetors.
10-32 UNF x 3/8" thread length
Phillips Head Screws. Use to fasten air filter housing base to Carter/Kohler
#26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors.
10-32 UNF x 1/2" thread length
Stainless Steel Hex Socket (Allen) Head Screws. Use to fasten velocity stack
to Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 or Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors. (For
competition pulling only.)
$117.85 each, plus
shipping & handling.
$156.60 each, plus
shipping & handling.
"Old School"
Technology High Performance Stock-Appearing Carburetor Modifications
- Bore out and rework YOUR #26, #28 or #30 Carter/Kohler carburetor
for use with Gas, E85 or Methanol fuels. Carburetor is modified internally
to improve engine performance. $85.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling.
Extra charge if any parts are needed. Work includes what's listed above
È plus whatever parts and services it
may need that's listed below.
New Walbro WHL #44 carburetor
with adjustable main jet. Comes with throttle linkage, mounting and air filter
housing gaskets. OEM Walbro/Kohler part #'s 41 853 07-S, 41 853 11-S.
$347.95 each outright, plus shipping & handling.
New Walbro WHG #52 carburetor
with adjustable main jet. Comes with throttle linkage, mounting and air filter
housing gaskets. NOTE: Has choke lever for the
New Walbro WHG #60, #64 carburetor
with adjustable main jet. Comes with throttle linkage, mounting and air filter
housing gaskets. NOTE: Has choke lever for the
Rebuilt, outright with no core
trade-in. Genuine OEM Kohler #26 fully adjustable carburetors for Kohler
engine models KT17, KT17 series 2, KT19, KT19 series 2, M18 and M20 (horizontal
shaft engines, without anti-backfire shut-off valve). Please indicate
if the choke lever needs to be in the downward or upward swing position.
$125.00 each, plus shipping & handling. [When available.]
NOTE: Please don't discard your Carter/Kohler carburetor core. If
not rebuildable, certain parts can be reused on a good core. (The OEM [US]
manufacturers are phasing out many parts for flathead engines due to EPA
smog emissions. But some parts may still be available in
aftermarket.)
Walbro #52 carburetors with
adjustable main jet. Comes with throttle linkage, mounting and air filter
housing gaskets. Available for the following engines. Please indicate
if the choke lever needs to be in the downward or upward swing position.
Float Bowl O-Ring Seal for Walbro
carburetors. Dimensions (±): 2-3/8" i.d. x 2-1/2" o.d. x .065" thickness.
Square cross-section. Fits Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors
that's used on Kohler Magnum engine models M8, M10, M12, M14, M16, MV16,
M18, MV18, M20 and MV20 single- and twin-cylinder flathead cast iron block
engines. Made of
Also fits Briggs and Stratton
7hp-12hp vertical shaft engine carburetors. Dimensions: 2-3/8" o.d. x 1-1/4"
height x 3/8" bottom hole. The dimensions of the aftermarket and
B&S anodized steel float bowls are exactly the same as the aftermarket
and Kohler aluminum float bowls. Either are interchangeable. The steel bowl
is better quality because it won't dent or corrode through.
Float bowls for Walbro WHL #36,
#44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors used on Kohler Magnum engine models
K141, K160/K161, K181/M8, K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16, MV16, M18,
MV18, M20 and MV20. 2½" outside diameter. Each made of dent-proof, anodized,
corrosion-resistant steel.
3/8" i.d. Float Bowl Retaining
Bolt Fiber Sealing Washer. Fits Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHL
#36, #44, and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors. Included with the Carter/Kohler
carburetor overhaul kit. Also fits the carburetor on all Briggs & Stratton
opposed twin cylinder flathead engines. Replaces obsolete Briggs & Stratton
part # 397882.
Idle Fuel Mixture Adjuster Screw
for Carter/Kohler #26 carburetors with 1.07" throttle bore used on Kohler
K-series engine models K241, K301 and K330/K331. Designed specifically for
Kohler carburetors with following numbers stamped on mounting flange: 47
053 07, 47 053 08, 47 053 12, 47 053 13, 47 053 14, 47 053 15, 47 053 16,
47 053 24, 47 053 29, 47 053 35, 47 053 40, 47 053 62, 47 053 80, 52 053
60. Long step tip. Dimensions: .925" overall length x .260" tip length x
7-40 threads.
Idle Fuel Mixture Adjuster Screw
for Kohler carburetors used on Kohler KT-series engine models KT17, KT17
series 2, KT19, KT19 series 2, and models K482, K532 and K582. Designed
specifically for Kohler carburetors with following numbers stamped on mounting
flange: 48 053 06 (K582), 52 053 09, 52 053 18, 52 053 28. Long tapered tip.
Dimensions: 1.026" overall length x .404" tip length x 7-40 threads.
Compression Pressure Spring
for Idle Fuel Mixture Adjuster Screws above
È used on Carter/Kohler carburetors.
Idle Speed Adjuster Screws for
Carter #16, #18, #20, #22, Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHL or
WHG carburetors. Dimensions: 8-32 UNF x 1" length.
Compression Pressure Spring
for High Speed Air/Fuel Adjusters (below
Ê) used on all Carter #16, #18, #20,
#22 and Carter/Kohler #26, #28 or #30 carburetors.
High Speed Air/Fuel Mixture
Needle Adjuster Screws for Carter #16, #18, #20 and #22 carburetors that's
used on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161 and K181. The two parts
below Ê are identical in every way, except
200410-S is for Carter carburetors having the following numbers stamped on
top of carburetor body: A-230798, A-231966, B-231231, B-231450, B-231469,
C-231738, E-231480, E-231488, E-231489, F-230350, F-230502, G-220517, G-230500,
231287, 24588, 41 053 06, 41 053 13, 41 053 14. And Kohler parts look up
says that 200410-S is for Carter carburetors having the following numbers
stamped on top of carburetor body: A-231741, A-234641, C-231738, B-231739,
41 053 01, 41 053 04, 41 053 05, 41 053 06, 41 053 18, 41 053 20. IMPORTANT
- Please check numbers on carburetor before ordering and go here to identify
the correct part for any particular carburetor:
Idle Air/Fuel Mixture Adjuster
Screws for all Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors used
on Kohler Magnum engine models M8, M10, M12, M14, M16 and opposed (flathead)
twin cylinder engine models MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20. NOTE: The adjusters
below Ê have the same threads and ends
(tips). The only difference is the type of head.
High Speed Air/Fuel Mixture
Adjuster Needle Valve. Fits all Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64
carburetors w/adjustable high speed jet originally used on flathead cast
iron block Kohler Magnum single cylinder engine models M8-M16 and opposed
(flathead) twin cylinder models MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20. Overall length:
1-5/8".
8-32 UNF Allen set screw. Use
to plug factory-drilled idle fuel passageway holes on top/center of carburetor
when OEM cup plug is removed for carburetor cleaning. Cut short threads in
holes with an 8-32 UNF hand tap to install.
3mm Cup-Type Expansion Plug
or 
5/16" Concave-Type Expansion/Welch
Plug. For atmospheric vent opening (air passageway from inside the float
bowl area to outside of carburetor); located top of #36, #44 Walbro carburetors.
OEM Walbro part # 88-54-8. .50¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
3/8" Concave-Type Expansion/Welch
Plug. For idle circuit; located side of Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30, Walbro
#52, 60 & 64 carburetors and at an angle on Walbro #52, #60, #64 carburetors.
OEM Walbro part # 88-180-8. .50¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
Carburetor Mounting Screws (Bolts)
w/Slotted Head for Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64
carburetors used on Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K330/K331, K321/M14,
K341/M16 and K361. Use small screwdriver in slot to start screws in threaded
holes. Size: 5/16-18 UNC x 1" thread length.
Carburetor Stud Kits to mount
Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors on Kohler
engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K330/K331, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361.
Use
Bronze
Throttle Shaft Bushing for Carter #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors with a
counterbore that's used on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161
and K181, as well as other makes and models of engines that use the same
carburetor. Dimensions: 7/32" i.d. x .407" o.d. x 1/8" height. NOTE: Apply
clean motor oil 
Short, Flat Bronze Throttle
Shaft Bushing for all Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 and early Walbro #52, #60,
#64 carburetors with a counterbore that's used on Kohler K-series and early
Magnum engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K330/K331, K321/M14, K341/M16, K361
and KT17, KT17 series 2, KT19, KT19 series 2, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20.
If there's a [worn] rubber seal in the counterbore, this bushing will replace
it. Dimensions: 1/4" i.d. x 7/16" o.d. x 1/8" height. NOTE: Apply clean
motor oil 
Professionally machine YOUR
carburetor body and install bronze sleeve bushings for worn choke shaft holes
and reinstall original choke shaft (if not excessively worn).
3-48 UNC screws and split lock
washers to fasten throttle or choke plate to throttle or choke shaft in
Carter/Kohler and various other carburetors. Each measures .095" outside
thread diameter; Grade 18-8 stainless steel; tensile strength: 120,000 psi.
Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # 234209-S.
Throttle plates for Carter
#16, #18, #20, #22 and Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetors with .822" diameter
throttle bore.
Convert a Carter #26, #28 or
#30 carburetor with the cast aluminum clamp-on throttle lever to the Kohler-style
throttle shaft design. Kit consists of the Kohler-style throttle shaft w/hole
in lever (below), brass 8-32 UNC (idle speed) screw, and compression spring
for the idle speed screw. INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS: The steel pin will need
to be ground off flush with the top of the carburetor body (don't attempt
to break it off, the aluminum will break instead), and the carburetor body
will need to be drilled in a specific location with a 9/64" drill bit and
new threads will need to be cut through the hole with an 8-32 UNC plug hand
tap for the idle speed screw so it will make correct contact with the throttle
lever. 
Throttle plate made specifically
for Carter/Kohler #26 carburetors with 1.07" throttle bore originally used
on Kohler K-series engine models K241, K301, K330/K331, KT17, KT17 series
2, KT19, KT19 series 2, K482 and K532. Designed to be used with the OEM or
aftermarket throttle shafts above È
with 11/16" screw hole spacing. Made of steel. Discontinued from Kohler.
Replaces Kohler part # 236668-S. High quality aftermarket.
Throttle plate made specifically
for Carter or Kohler #30 carburetor with 1.2" throttle bore originally used
on Kohler K-series engine models K321, K341 and K582. Designed to be used
with OEM Carter, Kohler or aftermarket throttle shafts above
È with 11/16" screw hole spacing. No
Kohler part number. High quality aftermarket.
Throttle Shaft w/Slightly Raised
Lever for Walbro WHG #52 or Kohler #26 carburetors used on Kohler vertical
shaft engine models MV16, MV18 and MV20. 1/4" diameter hardened bronze shaft
with steel lever. Comes with screws and split lock washers. No threadlocker
required. Lever has a 3/16" hole for throttle bushing/linkage. NOTE: To
be used with Kohler 25 146 02-S (Walbro # 34-112) throttle plate. Apply clean
motor oil 
5/32" Diameter Choke Friction
(Detent) Ball for Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors. NOTE: NOTE: The
detent ball and spring is required for hand-operation of the choke to keep
it in the open position on stand-alone engines, such as a garden tiller,
portable generator/welder, portable air compressor, portable water pump,
etc. If choke is operated by a sliding remote wire cable control, such as
in a lawn tractor, then the ball and spring isn't needed and will serve no
purpose.
1/8" Diameter x 5/16" length
Choke Friction (Detent) Compression Spring for Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetors.
NOTE: NOTE: The detent ball and spring is required for hand-operation
of the choke to keep it in the open position on stand-alone engines, such
as a garden tiller, portable generator/welder, portable air compressor, portable
water pump, etc. If choke is operated by a sliding remote wire cable control,
such as in a lawn tractor, then the ball and spring isn't needed and will
serve no purpose. Also, the 1/8" diameter x 1/2" length spring for the Carter
and Kohler #16, #18, #20, #22, #26, #28, #30 carburetors have been discontinued
from Kohler. L This 1/8" diameter x
5/16" length spring can be used in these carburetors with an 1/8" diameter
x 3/16" length solid spacer placed under spring. (An 1/8" diameter
x 3/16" length Allen set screw makes an excellent spacer.)
1/8" Diameter x 1/2" length
Choke Friction (Detent) Compression Spring for Carter and Kohler #26, #28
and #30 carburetors. NOTE: The detent ball and spring is required for
hand-operation of the choke to keep it in the open position on stand-alone
engines, such as a garden tiller, portable generator/welder, portable air
compressor, portable water pump, etc. If choke is operated by a sliding remote
wire cable control, such as in a lawn tractor, then the ball and spring isn't
needed and will serve no purpose.
5/32" Diameter x 1/2" length
Choke Friction (Detent) Compression Spring for Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64
carburetors. NOTE: NOTE: The detent ball and spring is required for
hand-operation of the choke to keep it in the open position on stand-alone
engines, such as a garden tiller, portable generator/welder, portable air
compressor, portable water pump, etc. If choke is operated by a sliding remote
wire cable control, such as in a lawn tractor, then the ball and spring isn't
needed and will serve no purpose. Also, this spring can replace the 1/8"
diameter x 1/2" length spring (discontinued from Kohler) for the Carter and
Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors. It is to be used with the 5/32" ball. The
detent hole in the carburetor will need to be drilled out to 5/32" to accommodate
this bigger spring and ball. Be careful not to drill the hole deeper, just
make it bigger in diameter.
For performance testing engines
up to 200hp at speeds up to 12,000 RPM. The only engine dyno service in Missouri
for Kohler pulling engines! Now set up and fully operational, customers can
rent dyno time, fine tune and make adjustments or changes to their engines
for maximum horsepower and torque, and print-out the results so their tractor(s)
will be truly competitive on the track.