Serving the Small Engine and Garden Tractor Pulling Community Since
1996. Where Science and Common Sense Come Together for Safety and Improved
Engine/Tractor Performance.
A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises
- Parts & Services Online Catalog
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Unsportsmanshiplike Conduct -

There's a cheater in every sport, and competition tractor
pulling is no different. Honest pullers who ignore the cheater(s) are fools.
And when there's prize money involved, a fool and their money are soon parted.
Anyway, to make competition pulling a fun and fair sport for the entire family,
be protective of your equipment! While at the pulls, keep an eye on your
carburetor and fuel shut-off valve! When a
competitive or winning pulling tractor is left alone, it's been known that
certain disgruntled pullers
(sore losers
) belonging
to various associations/clubs, virtually anywhere and everywhere, will turn
the high speed air/fuel adjuster one way or the other, or close the
fuel shut-off valve to keep the engine from
running at it's full potential, or from running at all. This is one of the
easiest, dishonest and sneaky ways to retard or disable and sabotage a
competitor's tractor. All a cheater needs is an opportunity in an attempt
to gain an advantage on the track. This is also the fastest way for a pulling
association or club to gain a bad reputation and lose honest pullers. (Bad
news travels fast.) This type of dishonest behavior doesn't happen often,
but you need to be prepared if or when it does happen. To be prepared for
this unforeseeable event, it'll be a good idea to cover the entire carburetor
with a
drawstring bag, or better yet, cover the entire tractor
with a canvas or heavy blanket.
Keep an eye on your
killswitch plug, too! Always try to stay one step ahead of a
cheater.
Use a Remote Fuel Primer System to Start a Cold Engine
- An ingenious, thoroughly researched and innovative concept
by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise the use of this system for
use on a lawn and garden tractor.
[Top of Page]
| Return To Previous Paragraph or
Website.
If a Carter and Kohler carburetor (or virtually any type of float carburetor)
that's used on a lawn or garden machine, or pulling tractor don't have a
choke plate assembly installed, but does have an air cleaner/filter assembly,
or an air filter with a velocity stack, and if the engine have to be "hand
choked" to start it, then you probably already know how hard it is to get
your hand sealed over the entire velocity stack or end of the carburetor,
and also have a wet hand from the raw fuel afterwards. The remote fuel primer
system installed will prevent this. Having a small hose connected to the
atmospheric vent opening (air passageway from inside the float bowl area
to outside of carburetor) in the carburetor is a lot safer than having raw
fuel spilling out of the drilled hole on the side of the carburetor when
pulling! An inexpensive and safe way to get extra fuel in the throttle bore
to start a cold engine is to use a remote fuel primer system. This system
can also be adapted for use on ordinary garden tractors, lawn and garden
equipment or virtually any type of small engine equipment with virtually
any type of float-type carburetor. This system is similar to the same set
up that many small engine manufacturers use on their engines nowadays. Works
great with pump gas, race gas, E85 or alcohol fuel. Can be used on most lawn
& garden small engine equipment, garden pulling tractors, recreational
vehicles, etc.
NOTE: If an engine is hard to start, even with the choke plate fully closed
and tuned correctly, then it may need a professional valve job performed
and valve clearances reset. The reason some older engines is hard to start
is because the valve faces, especially the intake valve, wears slightly away
against the valve seat, and this causes the clearance between the valve stem
and lifter to be lessened, which will prevent the valve(s) from fully closing
to trap adequate compression in the combustion chamber [so the engine can
start easier]. This remote fuel primer system will not fix this type of problem.
How the Remote Fuel Primer System Works: The fuel primer bulb on a
snowblower engine connects directly to the float bowl and takes place of
the atmospheric vent hole in the float bowl. The bulb itself has a small
atmospheric vent hole. When the bulb is compressed (small atmospheric vent
hole sealed), this creates air pressure within the bulb, tubing and float
bowl, which force fuel up through the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube), creating
a slight flooding condition in the throttle bore. Thus, helping a cold engine
without a choke plate start much easier. With this system, the engine cannot
be "over-choked," which could foul the spark plug. The fuel primer system
can also be used as a manual accelerator pump when an engine hesitates to
rev up on its own.
With the original atmospheric vent opening (air passageway from inside the
float bowl area to outside of carburetor) in the carburetor plugged, a short
brass tube is inserted into a drilled hole in the float bowl area on the
side of the carburetor body, and with a small fuel hose connecting the carburetor
to the primer bulb assembly, which is mounted on the steering column support
pedestal.
How to Install and Use My Remote Fuel Primer System:
-
Remove the carburetor from the
engine, remove the float bowl and float.
-
Plug the atmospheric vent passageway (from inside the float bowl area to
outside of carburetor that's located at the 2:00 position next to the choke
plate) with a 1/4" Allen set screw. Cut some short threads for a 1/4" coarse
or fine thread x 1/4" length Allen set screw, and install the screw in the
opening. If there's a small hole to the right of the choke plate, plug this
hole with a 3-48 screw using
high strength liquid threadlocker. And if there's a
small hole drilled on the outside of the carburetor body, this will need
to be plugged with
JB Weld two-part epoxy or a short screw. See the photos
to the right. (The installed tube, hose and hole in the primer bulb will
be the new atmospheric vent for the float bowl.)
-
Be sure to use 150± PSI compressed air to clear out the metal cuttings
from the entire carburetor.
-
Drill an 1/8" hole into the float bowl area just above the float fuel level
on the side of the carburetor body to install the 1/8" tube to connect the
primer hose. On the Carter or Kohler carburetor, this would be just above
the bowl seal and below the atmospheric vent opening (air passageway from
outside the carburetor to the float bowl area) on the right side of the
carburetor when viewed from the choke end. The drilled hole should be a press-fit
for the 1/8" tubing. Use
high strength liquid threadlocker to permanently secure
the tube in the hole then gently tap the tube in the hole with a small hammer
until it's flush with the inside of the float bowl area. See photo to the
right.
-
Reassemble the carburetor, and use a hammer to flatten the hole from inside
the float bowl on a hard, flat surface so when the bowl bolt is tightened
against the carburetor, it will place more pressure against the
neoprene
rubber O-ring seal and fuel baffle/splash shield to prevent an air leak (and
possible fuel leak). Reinstall the carburetor on the engine, and connect
the fuel line. FYI - The fuel baffle/splash shield prevents fuel inside
the float bowl from traveling up through the atmospheric vent opening (air
passageway into the float bowl) and into the throttle bore when the engine
is "moving around" or "moving up and down" severely, such as on a go-kart
or tiller, which could cause the engine to momentarily run rich on fuel.
-
Drill a 17/64" hole to install the primer bulb assembly someplace on the
tractor's steering column support pedestal within easy reach of the driver.
Mount the primer bulb on side of the pedestal so rain water and/or when
washing off tractor, water will not enter in the hole in the bulb and contaminate
the fuel in the carburetor.
-
Route the primer hose along the tractor so it won't get kinked, pinched or
damaged and away from moving parts and hot exhaust area. Then attach the
hose from the primer bulb assembly to the tube on the carburetor.
-
Fill carburetor with fuel, and press the primer bulb quickly a couple of
times with your finger to create pressure within the float bowl (be sure
to place a finger over the hole in the bulb), and at the same time, look
inside the carburetor. Fuel should squirt from the main nozzle and into the
throttle bore with each push. Now then the engine should be quick to start!
NOTE: It only takes a couple of pushes of the primer bulb to thoroughly
prime the carburetor to start the engine. Any more pushes, the carburetor
may become flooded and the engine could take longer to start! Another
useful thing about the fuel primer system is, this system can be used as
a manual accelerator pump if an engine hesitates to rev up, especially before
reaching its operating temperature (cold engine).
-
NOTE: If an engine is hard to start, even with the choke plate fully closed
and tuned correctly, then it may need a professional valve job performed
and valve clearances reset. The reason some older engines is hard to start
is because the valve faces, especially the intake valve, wears slightly away
against the valve seat, and this causes the clearance between the valve stem
and lifter to be lessened, which will prevent the valve(s) from fully closing
to trap adequate compression in the combustion chamber [so the engine can
start easier]. This remote fuel primer system will not fix this type of problem.
FYI - Most [cold] engines will not start when fuel is introduced directly
into the combustion chamber through the spark plug hole. Doing this only
results in a flooding condition and the engine may not start. Gas (or starting
fluid) needs to be mixed with incoming air through the carburetor intake
so the air can atomize the fuel (break down
into a fine mist) to burn more thoroughly so the engine will be able to start
quicker.
When removing the choke shaft, there's a tiny
(1/8" or 5/32") steel ball and small compression spring located at the 9:00
position when facing the choke end with the float area down. When the choke
shaft is removed, hold one finger over the screw hole and end of the choke
shaft hole to prevent the ball and spring from popping out and possibly getting
lost. By the way - the ball and spring is required only for hand-operation
of the choke plate to keep it in the open position on stand-alone engines,
such as on a garden tiller, portable generator/welder, portable air compressor,
portable water pump, etc. The ball and spring is not needed if the choke
is remotely operated with a choke cable, such as on a garden tractor, etc.
Advertisement:
If you would like to purchase any of the parts or
services listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136
USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313
(shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please
speak slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am
to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When
speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. When
you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with
the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to the
public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate our business our business to other property with a bigger
and better shop so we can provide many more high quality parts and professional
services.)
  Small
Engine Remote Fuel Primer System Kits. Safe to use and works flawlessly!
Can be used on most ordinary lawn and garden tractors, garden pulling tractors,
recreational vehicles, or virtually any small engine lawn and garden or snow
removal equipment with a choke plate in the carburetor. Primer bulb can be
installed on pedestal, dashboard, instrument panel, engine control panel,
flywheel shroud, etc. Requires 1/4" mounting hole for primer bulb assembly.
Works with Carter/Kohler (OEM and aftermarket), Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh,
Mikuni, Zenith, or virtually any carburetor with a float. Works with pump
gas, race gas, E-85 or methanol fuels. The choice of professional garden
tractor pullers everywhere! With the fuel bowl atmospheric vent opening plugged
(air passageway from inside the float bowl to outside of carburetor), then
with one or two pushes of the primer bulb with your finger, air pressure
created within the float bowl forces fuel up through the main jet and out
the nozzle, creating a slight flooding condition inside the carburetor throttle
bore, allowing a cold engine to start quick. With this setup installed, the
choke plate and shaft is not needed and can be removed. No more binding of
a cable-operated choke and/or bent choke plate, or messy and unsafe "hand
choking" of the carburetor. Being the atmospheric vent opening will be plugged,
the fuel baffle splash shield
in the Carter/Kohler carburetor is not needed with this setup and will serve
no purpose whatsoever. Kit includes: New primer bulb assembly with integrated
1/8" barbed hose fitting and serrated mounting nut, 1/8" I.D. x 3/16" O.D.
x 2' length clear vinyl hose, loop-type clamp and 1/8" diameter x 1" length
brass tube. Click or tap here
for installation instructions. An ingenious and innovative concept
by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise the universal kit for use
on various small engine equipment, lawn and garden tractors or competition
pulling tractors. NOTE: If
an engine is hard to start, even with the choke plate fully closed and tuned
correctly, then it may need the valve clearances reset and/or professional
valve job performed. The reason some older engines is hard to start is because
the valve faces, especially the intake valve, wears slightly away against
the valve seat, and this causes the clearance between the valve stem and
lifter to be lessened, which will prevent the valve(s) from fully closing
to trap adequate compression in the combustion chamber [so the engine can
start easier]. This remote fuel primer system will not help an engine start
easier if it needs a valve job. [Return
to Previous Section]
-
Fuel Primer Bulb Assembly Only. Includes serrated mounting nut. $7.00
each, plus shipping.
-
High Quality Complete Universal Fuel Primer Kit. $11.00 each, plus
shipping & handling.
-
XT Fuel Primer Kit. OEM Kohler part # 14 755 36-S. $15.50 each, plus
shipping.
|
Identification of Carter and Kohler Carburetors -
The carburetors that's used on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160
and K181/M8 are as follows:
-


The Carter Model
N #13 and #16 carburetor originally came on Kohler engine models K90/K91,
K141, K160/K161 and K181/M8, but because of its small venturi, it's best
suited for the K90/K91 engine. When used on a bigger engine, due to the velocity
of air that's required, the engine will not produce maximum power at 3,600
RPM. This carburetor came on various other makes and models of engines, too.
It was a popular carburetor for its time. The throttle bore measures .810"
diameter and the venturi is .542" diameter. Measure the throttle bore with
a
dial or digital caliper, and measure the venturi with a
plug gauge, such as a deep-well socket or round tubing of the right outside
diameter. The original Kohler (originally Carter) part numbers for this
carburetor are: A-220100, A-220574, A-220745, A-220777, C-220777, E-220517,
F-220762, F-230501, D-220451, G-220517, 46 053 03-S. Being this carburetor
is no longer made (in the USA; Kohler part # 46 853 01-S), its replacement
is the Walbro WHL #36 or the aftermarket Carter-replicated Chinese-made
carburetor.
-
The Carter #18 carburetor originally came on Kohler engine models K90, K91,
K141, K160 and K181, but because of the size of its venturi, it's best suited
for the K141 engine. When used on a bigger engine, due to the velocity of
air that's required, the engine will not produce maximum power at 3,600 RPM.
If this carburetor is used on a K90/K91, the engine may hesitate to rev up,
and when used on a K160/K161 or K181, the engine may not produce full power
at 3,600 RPM. This carburetor came on various other makes and models of engines,
too. It too, was a popular carburetor for its time. The throttle bore measures
.823" diameter and the venturi is .550" diameter. Measure the throttle bore
with a
dial or digital caliper, and measure the venturi with a
plug gauge, such as a deep-well socket or round tubing of the right outside
diameter. The original Kohler (originally Carter) part numbers for this
carburetor are: A-231966, G-220517, 41 053 06-S. Being this carburetor is
no longer made (in the USA; Kohler part # 41 853 06-S), its replacement is
the Walbro WHL #36 or 44, or the aftermarket Carter-replicated Chinese-made
carburetor.
-
The Carter #20 carburetor was used only on Kohler engine model K161. This
was a popular carburetor for its time because it was also used on various
other makes and models of engines. The throttle bore measures .823" diameter
and the venturi is .612" diameter. Measure the throttle bore with a
dial or digital caliper, and measure the venturi with a
plug gauge, such as a deep-well socket or round tubing of the right outside
diameter. The original Kohler (originally Carter) part numbers for this
carburetor are: A-230694, A-230798, A-231448, B-231231, B-231450, B-231469,
B-231480, C-231738, E-231488, E-231489, F-230350, F-230501, F-230502, G220517,
G-230500, 41 053 06-S, 41 053 14-S. Being these carburetors are no longer
made (in the USA; Kohler part # 41 853 06-S), its replacement is the Walbro
WHL #44 or the aftermarket Carter-replicated Chinese-made carburetor.
-
The Carter #22 carburetor originally came on Kohler engine models K161, K181
and M8, but because of its larger venturi, it's best suited for the K181/M8
engines. If used on a smaller engine, due to the larger venturi, the engine
will not receive the velocity of air or air charge required to sufficiently
draw the fuel through the main nozzle at 3,600 RPM. The throttle bore measures
.823" diameter and the venturi is .682" diameter. Measure the throttle bore
with a
dial or digital caliper, and measure the venturi with a
plug gauge, such as a deep-well socket or round tubing of the right outside
diameter. The original Kohler (originally Carter) part numbers for this
carburetor are: A-230798, A-231741, A-234641, B-231739, F-230501, F-230502,
F-230350, G-221517, 41 053 01-S, 41 053 04-S, 41 053 05-S, 41 053 06-S, 41
053 18-S, 41 053 20-S. Being these carburetors are no longer made (in the
USA; Kohler part #'s 41 853 09, 41 853 07-S, 41 853 10-S or 41 853 11-S;
different variations between carburetors, such as design of choke shaft lever,
etc.), its replacement is the Walbro WHL #44 or the aftermarket Carter-replicated
Chinese-made carburetor.
-
NOTE: If a too large of a carburetor is used on a smaller engine, not
enough velocity (rapid movement) of air can be drawn through the carburetor
at higher RPMs. Therefore, the insufficient amount of moving air cannot draw
enough air through the carburetor and fuel from the high speed fuel nozzle
to sufficiently feed the engine. The exception of this rule is if the engine
has oversize valves (larger than factory-installed valves), then there should
be enough vacuum to draw sufficient amount of air (and fuel) through the
carburetor. FYI - The OEM (US) manufacturers are phasing out many
parts for flathead engines due to EPA smog emissions. But some parts may
still be available in aftermarket.
FYI - When
Edelbrock bought out the [automotive division of]
Carter Carburetor Corporation sometime before 1984, Carter
sold their line of small engine carburetors to Kohler Engines in 1985. Kohler
changed the throttle lever on the Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20 and #22
carburetors, but for some reason, retained the Carter name on them. And on
the bigger Carter #26 and #30 single cylinder engine carburetors, Kohler
redesigned (and actually improved) the throttle shaft with an integrated
lever, and made slots for the mounting holes in the carburetor body for easier
installation and removal on/from the engine block. Everything else remained
the same on the Carter and Kohler carburetors, with the exception of the
throttle levers and various choke levers. Six different variations of the
Carter or Kohler carburetors was made for the Kohler K-series K241 through
K361 engines, KT-series, and the K482, K532 and K582 engines.
NOTE: Please don't discard your Carter or Kohler carburetor core.
If not rebuildable, certain valuable parts can be reused on a good core.
(The OEM (US) manufacturers are phasing out many parts for flathead engines
due to EPA smog emissions. But some parts are still available in
aftermarket.)
The size number (diameter of
throttle bore) for the Carter or Kohler carburetors is embossed inside the
upper part of the choke end, just above the venturi. But not all Kohler
carburetors have a number embossed. In this case, the throttle bore (throttle
plate area) will need to be measured to determine the exact size of the
carburetor. The size number refers to the amount of air that can flow through
the carburetor.
The carburetor with 26 embossed in the choke end has a 26mm or 1.07" diameter
throttle bore. (26mm converts close to 1.070"). The carburetor with 28 embossed
in the choke end has a 28mm diameter or 1.17" throttle bore. (28mm converts
close to 1.170".) And the carburetor with 30 embossed in the choke end has
a 30mm or 1.200" diameter throttle bore (30mm converts close to 1.200".)
For precision, when measuring the throttle bore to determine the size, it's
best to use a
dial or digital caliper.
FYI: Some people advertise online that the carburetor for Kohler engine
models K241/M10 and K301/M12 can also be used on the K321/M14, K341/M16 and
K361 engines. But I know for a fact that if the K241/M10 and K301/M12 carburetor
is used on a K321/M14, K341/M16 or K361, which produces 14hp, 16hp and 18hp,
respectively, with the correct carburetors, would produce about 12hp, 14hp
and 15hp, and make less torque, because the engine would be drawing less
air through the smaller carburetor to produce not as much compression. I
guess the seller don't know the difference between these carburetors, because
they look virtually identical on the outside. Or maybe the seller figures
what most people don't know, makes them more money.
The carburetors for Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14,
K341/M16 and K361 are different. They may appear the same on the outside,
but be very different on the inside. The K241/M10 and K301/M12 engines require
a carburetor with a 1.07" throttle bore and venturi that measures .812" diameter.
The K321/M14 engines requires a carburetor with a 1.2" throttle bore and
venturi that measures .937" diameter. The K341/M16 engines requires a carburetor
with a 1.2" throttle bore and venturi that measures 1.000" diameter. And
the K361 engine requires a carburetor with a 1.250" throttle bore and venturi
that measures 1.062" diameter. If the wrong carburetor is used on any particular
engine, the engine may not run right and not produce full power. The carburetors
that's used on various models of Kohler engines are as follows:
-
The first carburetor is a number "26". It was originally designed and
manufactured by the
Carter Carburetor Corporation, then later manufactured
by Kohler Engines. It has a 26mm or 1.07" diameter throttle bore. The
venturi
(smallest part of the throttle bore) is .812" diameter. It's designed to
be used on Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K3303/K331, KT17, KT17
Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. The carburetor
for the single cylinder engines is discontinued from Kohler
L, but available in aftermarket
J. The replacement carburetor from Kohler is
a Walbro WHG #52. OEM Kohler part # 47 853 23-S.
-
And yet there's another type of Kohler #26 carburetor designed specifically
for Kohler engine models K482 and K532. The throttle shaft is positioned
horizontally and the idle fuel mixture screw is positioned directly on top
of the carburetor body instead of at an angle on the side. This carburetor
is discontinued from Kohler L, but available
in aftermarket J.
-
The next carburetor is a rare one, it's a number "28". This carburetor was
originally designed and manufactured by the
Carter Carburetor Corporation, and was used on the
early Kohler engine model K321 with specification suffix "A", "B" or "C"
(with a smaller 1-1/8" exhaust valve) and on certain early K341 engines.
It has a 28mm or 1.17" diameter throttle bore. The venturi measures .937"
diameter. It may have the part number 236636 stamped on the flange. It has
been discontinued by Carter many years ago.
L The replacement is OEM Kohler part # 45 053
20-S. Which is the fully adjustable Kohler #30 carburetor as described below.
The Walbro WHG #60 or #64 replacement is OEM Kohler part # 47 853 30-S. By
the way - if there's no numbers anywhere on the carburetor body, then it's
definitely a Chinese-made aftermarket carburetor. Because Carter, Kohler
and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on the flange of all their carburetors.
FYI - Carter sold their line of small engine carburetors to Kohler Engines
in 1985. After 1985, the #28 was discontinued, and Kohler installed the #30
carburetor on ALL of their K321 and K341 engines.
Also, after 1985, Kohler gave
the K321 engine a larger 1-3/8" exhaust valve and made the intake port larger
in diameter. These are engines with specification suffix "D" and later. The
bigger #30 carburetor and larger exhaust valve allows for more air to enter
and exit out of the combustion chamber so the engine can produce full 14hp
at 3,600 RPM. By the way - The early K321 engine with the small intake port
and smaller exhaust valve make a good stock/4,000 RPM competition pulling
engine, but the later K321 engine with the bigger intake port and bigger
exhaust valve make an excellent high RPM competition pulling engine.
-
The third carburetor is a number "30". It was originally designed and
manufactured by the
Carter Carburetor Corporation, then later manufactured
by Kohler Engines. It is used on the later model K321/M14 (later K321's,
meaning with the 1-3/8" diameter exhaust valve; the early K321's had the
1-1/8" exhaust valve), K341/M16 and K582 engines. It has a 30mm or 1.200"
diameter throttle bore. The venturi measures 1.000" diameter. This original
fully adjustable Kohler #30 carburetor with the 1.2" throttle bore (OEM Kohler
part # 45 053 20-S) and the Walbro WHG #60, #64 replacement carburetor (OEM
Kohler part # 47 853 30-S) for the K321/M14 and K341/M16 engines are discontinued
from Kohler, but is available in aftermarket as the Kohler-replicated
Chinese-made fully adjustable #28 carburetor with a 1.17" throttle bore
J.
-
There's another #30 carburetor
designed specifically for the Kohler engine model K582. The throttle shaft
is positioned horizontally and the idle fuel mixture screw is directly on
top of the carburetor body instead of at an angle on the side. This OEM Kohler
carburetor is discontinued from Kohler L, but
is available in aftermarket as the Kohler-replicated Chinese-made fully
adjustable #28 carburetor with a 1.17" throttle bore
J. FYI: Lots of people advertise online
that the carburetor for the K482 and K532 can also be used on the K582. But
I know for a fact that if the K482 and K532 carburetor is used on the K582,
which produces 24hp with the correct carburetor, would produce about 21hp
and make less torque, because the engine would be drawing less air through
the smaller carburetor to produce not as much compression. I guess the seller
don't know the difference between these carburetors, because they look virtually
identical on the outside. Or maybe the seller figures what most people don't
know, makes them more money.
-
Lastly, there's another type of Kohler #30 carburetor. Its throttle bore
measures 1.250" and the venturi measures 1.062" diameter. Otherwise, it's
identical in every other way to the (1.2") #30 carburetor above
È. It's used only on Kohler engine model
K361. The carburetor for the K341 engine (Kohler part # 45 053 20-S), which
have a venturi diameter of 1", can be used on the K361 engine, but the venturi
will need to be bored to 1.062" so the K361 will produce full power at 3,600
RPM. This carburetor is discontinued from Kohler and is not available in
aftermarket L. However, the venturi in the
#28 (1.17") Chinese-made aftermarket carburetor can be bored to 1.00" (which
is the maximum for the aftermarket carburetor without breaking into the fuel
inlet port) so the K361 will produce plenty of power at 3,600 RPM.
-
NOTE: If a too large of a carburetor is used on a smaller engine, not
enough velocity (rapid movement) of air can be drawn through the carburetor
at higher RPMs. Therefore, the insufficient amount of moving air cannot draw
(vacuum) enough fuel from the main fuel nozzle to sufficiently feed the engine.
The exception of this rule is if the engine has oversize valves (larger than
factory-installed valves), then there should be enough vacuum to draw sufficient
amount of air through the carburetor.
By the way - the part number of all Kohler-made and Walbro carburetors are
stamped on the right side of the mounting flange. Don't refer to the numbers
just below the fuel inlet port. They represent nothing that I know of. Click
here to identify a Kohler or Walbro carburetor and matching parts:
Kohler
Carburetor Reference Manual TP-2377-E.pdf. (require
Adobe
Acrobat Reader and use
Google
Chrome web browser for a faster download of websites with large
files.) If there's no numbers anywhere on the carburetor body,
then it's definitely an aftermarket Chinese-made carburetor. Because Carter,
Kohler and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on the flange of all their
carburetors.
Airflow (CFM = Cubic Feet per Minute) -
-
The venturi in a stock Carter or Kohler #26 carburetor measures .808" diameter,
and flows 74 CFM. With the venturi bored-out (straight-through throttle bore),
this carburetor will flow a minimum 98 CFM (cubic feet per minute), which
is approximately 1/3 times greater or 32% increase in airflow. FYI - A
bored-out #26 carburetor with an unrestricted straight-through throttle bore
will flow more air and out-perform a stock (non-bored) #28 or #30 carburetor
at high RPM.
-
The venturi in a stock Carter #28 carburetor measures .920" diameter, and
flows 84 CFM. With the venturi bored-out (straight-through throttle bore),
the carburetor will flow a minimum 107 CFM, which is approximately .273 times
greater or 27% increase in airflow.
-
The venturi in a stock Carter or Kohler #30 carburetor measures .920" diameter,
and flows 84 CFM. With the venturi bored-out (straight-through throttle bore),
it'll flow a minimum 110 CFM, which is approximately .309 times greater or
31% increase in airflow.
-
And a Carter or Kohler #26, #28 or #30 carburetor with a bored-out .995"
or 1" venturi flows 91 CFM.
-
NOTE: A bored-out venturi and reworked carburetor is when the carburetor
is modified for maximum performance for general yard and garden use, and/or
for competition pulling.
FYI - The throttle bore in the Carter or Kohler #26/1.07" carburetors
can be bored to 1.17" (#28 size) or 1.2" (#30 size), and the main jet/nozzle
(emulsion tube) will still bottom out against the throttle bore, and of course,
a 1.17" or 1.2" throttle shaft and plate would need to be used. But the boring
process will break through the idle fuel mixing well (the idle progression
holes and the welch plug hole) that's next to the throttle plate. Modifications
to this area would need to be made by threading in an 1/8" Allen pipe plug
where the welch plug is (or was), and drilling and installing a small brass
or copper tube from the idle fuel mixture adjuster screw down into the float
bowl, next to the float, with enough clearance so it won't interfere with
the movement of the float. A 1/4-28 UNF x 3/4" thread length bolt will also
need to be installed where the high speed air/fuel needle adjuster is (was)
to block off a vacuum leak to will occur with the modifications of the idle
air/fuel mixing well. Actually, it would be MUCH easier and less cost effective
to just convert either a Carter or Kohler #28 or #30 carburetor for high
performance use and not having to do anything to modify the idle fuel
passageway.
And boring of the venturi in the carburetor alone will not help to increase
engine performance. To increase the overall airflow in and out of the combustion
chamber for improved engine performance, and if sanctioning club's rules
allow this, the intake (and exhaust) port runners must be enlarged, too.
This is called "porting an engine." The [stock size] valves will also need
to be reworked for more airflow. Or larger valves and a bigger cam will need
to be installed.
For competition pulling, carburetor design and size depends on port sizes,
valve sizes, if the intake valve and seat have 30º/31º angles and
undercut heads, and the cam profile (lift and duration) is important. If
an engine has stock ports, valves and cam, a plain stock carburetor can be
used. But if the ports and valves have been reworked for more airflow, and
a bigger cam is going to be used, then a bored-out carburetor with a .995"
or 1" venturi can be used for best performance. A bored-out venturi and reworked
carburetor is when the carburetor is modified for maximum performance for
general yard and garden use, and/or for competition pulling.
The 26mm carburetor obviously has a smaller throttle bore. Therefore, is
restricted as to how much air can flow through it, even with the venturi
removed. It'll work excellent on a hot K241 or mild K301 engine, but the
larger 28mm and 30mm carburetors flows more air, 7.7% more for the 28mm,
and 15.5% more for the 30mm. Which are ideal for a hot K301 and larger engines
with porting, polishing, bigger valves and a big cam. If you feel that a
single 30mm carburetor won't flow enough air for your particular engine,
then either a "Super Carb," Dellorto, Mikuni, S&S Super D or a twin Kohler
carburetor setup (on a "Y" intake) should be used. If you have a K321 Kohler
engine, and you can't find a #28 or #30 carburetor, then a Carter or Kohler
#26 carburetor will work just fine for general lawn and garden use. Personally,
I ran a stock Kohler #26 on the K321 Kohler engine that's on my 6,000 lb.
self-propelled pulling sled for 10 years and the engine didn't lack any power
whatsoever.
Identification and Information About Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 Carburetors
-
The Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64
carburetors originally come on all Magnum engines. These carburetors are
direct replacements for the Kohler carburetors. The Walbro #52 carburetor
has a throttle bore diameter of 1.07" and is designed for use on models K241/M10,
K301/M12, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20
and MV20 engines. And the Walbro #60 or #64 carburetor have a throttle bore
diameter of 1.2" and is designed for the K321/M14, K341/M16 engines, and
being the 1.25" Kohler carburetor that was originally designed for the K361
engine is longer available, the only option is to use the Walbro #60 or #64
carburetor.
The older Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors are reliable and they seem
to last a long time before requiring service. Most older Walbros are worth
rebuilding, because the float valve seats are made of hardened solid bronze,
which is actually harder than cast iron. They were manufactured back in the
day when most business owners took pride in their products and offered their
customers a quality product.
But the newer Walbro carburetors, especially the ones that come on recently-built
aluminum block small air-cooled engines, are notorious for leaking gas after
several years of use. Although overhaul/rebuild carburetor kits are available,
it really does no good to rebuild them and install a new fuel inlet valve
because the float valve seat is made of soft brass, which erodes with use
due to microscopic particles of dirt/debris that pass through the filtering
material in the fuel filter, and in most Walbro carburetors, the seat is
not replaceable. The fuel inlet seat in older Walbro carburetors are made
of hardened compressed bronze, which is actually harder than cast iron. There
is no indication or records of when Walbro made the change from the hard
seat to the soft seat.
The filtering material in fuel
filters can only filter out so small of particles of dirt and debris. Any
heavy particles that can pass through the filter will build up in the bottom
of the float bowl and can eventually clog the main jet. Lightweight and suspended
particles gets sucked up through the main jet and is burned up in the combustion
chamber. On very rare occasions, a hair can pass through the pores of the
filtering material and become lodged between the float valve and inlet seat,
causing the carburetor to flood slightly with gas. When this happens, the
hair can be removed with 150± PSI compressed air and the same float
valve and seat can be reused because it will not be damaged.
To put it in plain English: If your Walbro carburetor doesn't leak gas
out the choke end, but need an overhaul/rebuild, then it may be worthwhile
to install a new kit. But if it does leak gas, then I doubt that a new float
valve will fix the problem. Your only options are: install a
fuel shut-off valve and turn off the fuel every
time the engine is not in use, or install a rebuilt Carter or Kohler K-series
carburetor.
About 90% of small engine carburetors are manufactured by Walbro nowadays,
and I don't think that one is better than the other. The trick to getting
the soft brass seat (and needle/float valve) to last longer is to use a fuel
filter with a very fine mesh or pleated paper element. The finer, the better.
Because it's the microscopic dirt/debris/grit that passes through the filter
that causes the seat (and needle/float valve) to erode and wear. And every
pressed-in brass seat that I've replaced ALWAYS leaked gas. There's just
no way to get them to seal with the carburetor body, not even with
high strength liquid thread locker.
The only problem using a Walbro on a pulling tractor or for high performance
application is they can't be bored-out or modified in any way because the
throttle bore wall (where the venturi is located) is too thin. Therefore,
they're limited to how much air can flow through them. The US government
EPA laws required that Kohler and all other small engine manufacturers redesign
their carburetors so the engine will produce less air pollution. So they
started using a redesigned emissions-controlled, EPA-approved Walbro carburetor
with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet. This is to prevent people from setting
the air/fuel ratio too rich and create more air pollution. The older-designed
Walbros that have an adjustable main jet, which is located on the lower right
side of the carburetor, are still available new. main jets of various sizes
are available for most carburetors with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet so
the engine will run correctly depending on the altitude level,
atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine will
be used.
A small engine with a fixed, non-adjustable high speed main jet carburetor
is supposed to run at a maximum of 3,200 RPM. If the RPMs is set higher,
the air/fuel mixture will lean out (too much air and not enough fuel), resulting
in the engine overheating, which will eventually cause the cylinder head
to burn-out, or premature wear to the piston and rings, resulting in the
engine burning oil. The way around this is to drill out the high speed main
jet a few thousandths of an inch to give the engine more fuel. But only do
this if it's absolutely necessary! If an engine lacks sufficient power at
3,200 RPM, then it obviously needs a professional valve job performed and/or
major tune-up.
(Added 7/18/20) If a small engine cylinder head is burned
out (usually close to the exhaust valve), if it's burned out where the gasket
seals, as long as there's no cracks in the head, it can be successfully welded
up, machined flat, the bolt hole redrilled and be put back into service.
The following items are what causes cylinder head burn-out...
-
Loose head bolts or nuts (with studs). Always torque head bolts or nuts
in the correct sequence and to the proper torque value. Apply
high temperature/high strength liquid threadlocker on threads
of studs to prevent them from loosening in the engine block.
-
Head warpage caused by clogged cooling fins (grass, debris, etc.), or head
milled too thin, which will create an air gap between the head bolts or
nuts/studs.
-
Too lean of carburetor high speed air/fuel mixture at full governed speed.
-
Severely worn throttle shaft in carburetor. This will lean out the high speed
air/fuel mixture at full governed speed. (A new bronze bushing will need
to be installed, and a new throttle shaft may need to be installed as
well.)
-
High speed air/fuel mixture set too lean on a Carter, Kohler or fully adjustable
Walbro carburetor.
-
If engine has a Walbro carburetor with a fixed/non-adjustable high speed
main jet and was running above 3,200 RPM, this will severely lean out the
high speed air/fuel mixture. (This is a common thing with the fixed high
speed main jet Walbro carburetors).
-
Vacuum leak at the carburetor mounting gasket, resulting in a lean air/fuel
mixture.
Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors work great for ordinary lawn and
garden equipment, general lawn work and they're perfect for basic stock low
RPM/low performance pulling tractors with an engine that's governed to a
maximum of 3,200 RPM with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet, or at 3,600 RPM
with an adjustable main jet. A carburetor with a fixed/non-adjustable main
jet is limited to just 3,200 RPM and should never be operated faster for
an extended length of time. Although the venturi cannot be bored-out on a
Walbro, they work equally as well as the older Carter or Kohler carburetors
when used on a stock engine. The main jet in the newer Walbro WHG #52, #60
and #64 carburetors are calibrated at the factory to provide the engine with
just the right amount of fuel at 3,200 RPM. Therefore, the fixed/non-adjustable
main jet inside the carburetor cannot be replaced with an adjustable one.
Advertisement:
If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services
listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises
| 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. When
you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with
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public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
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Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
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planning to relocate our business our business to other property with a bigger
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If a small engine cylinder head is burned out (usually close to the exhaust
valve), as long as there's no cracks in the head, it can be successfully
welded up, machined flat, the bolt hole redrilled and be put back into service.
-
Professionally weld-up burned-out area in cylinder head, machine flat ,and
bolt hole redrilled. $60.00 welding and labor, plus return shipping
& handling.
|
High
Quality Inductive Handheld Small Engine Wireless Tachometer. For
gas/spark ignite engines only. Very accurate. This handheld analog tachometer
works great for checking/setting the RPM on various small engines in the
shop, and/or for checking/setting the RPM [tech] on stock governed engines
at pulling events, ATVs/UTVS, etc. Hold sensor (antenna) close to spark plug
wire for reading. Operates off a self-contained replaceable 9 volt battery.
Has built-in battery voltage check. Reads up to 5,000 RPM on the low scale,
and 15,000 RPM on the high scale.
-
$85.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
High Quality Inductive
Small Engine Tachometer and Hour Meter. High quality and very accurate.
Large 3/8 inch LCD display. Works with all spark ignition engines by selecting
engine type using S1 and S2 buttons. Instructions included. Tachometer reads
up to 99,999 RPM. Hour meter reads up to 9999:59 hours/minutes. Can be manually
reset to Zero hours. Programmable maintenance hour setting with service icon,
a reminder when to change oil or other service. Easy installation: Single
wire wraps around spark plug wire and secured with two supplied nylon zip-ties.
No wire terminal connections required. Tachometer can be surface-mounted
and secured with two screws. Has built-in battery rated up to 4 years. Sealed
unit; weather and water resistant. Dimensions: 2" wide x 1-3/4" depth x 3/4"
height.
-
$20.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
High Quality
Digital Tachometer/Proximity Sensor Kits. Will work with small engines
or automotive engines, gas or diesel. Very accurate. Designed to be permanently
mounted to monitor engine RPM at all times. This precision digital tachometer
operates with external power and on the same principle as my
crank trigger ignition
with a proximity sensor to detect a target, which can be a small ferrous
steel screw or pin, or magnet in a rotating disc or on/in flywheel. A sturdy
steel or aluminum bracket will need to be fabricated by customer to mount
the sensor in close proximity of the detector/trigger target. Set air
gap/clearance at .010"-.188". Tachometer can be dash- or panel-mounted.
Tachometer works with 8-24 volts DC, proximity sensors works with 6-36 volts
DC. Tachometer can be dash- or panel-mounted. Tachometer works with 8-24
volts DC external power, proximity sensors works with 6-36 volts DC external
power. Dimensions of each proximity sensor below: 15/32" (12mm) diameter
x 1-3/8" thread length. Some proximity sensors have an LED (Light Emitting
Diode) on the rear of unit. If the proximity sensor is wired incorrectly,
the LED will stay on and go off when activated. Displays up to 9,999 RPM.
Very accurate. Tachometer returns to zero [0000] when power is turned off.
Wiring Instructions: #1 wire on tachometer connects to brown wire on (either)
proximity sensor and ignition switch (battery positive (+) post), #2 wire
on tachometer connects to blue wire on (either) proximity sensor and
engine/chassis ground (battery negative () post), and #5 wire on tachometer
connects to black wire on (either) proximity sensor. Wires #3 and #4 connects
to nothing. Wiring can also be integrated with
crank trigger ignition
with a proximity sensor. Choice of
RED or
BLUE numeric display.
-
Tachometer only. To be used with a 3-wire hall effect, inductive or cube-shaped
proximity sensor. $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Complete Kit with Hall Effect Proximity Sensor. (Senses the South pole of
a small magnet embedded in an aluminum rotating locking collar or disc.)
$22.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Complete Kit with Inductive Proximity Sensor. (Senses the head of a small
steel screw in a rotating locking collar, disc or flywheel.) $25.00
each, plus shipping & handling. Return
to previous section.
|
Carter or Kohler or Walbro Fully Adjustable main jet Carburetors VS. Walbro
Fixed/Non-Adjustable Main Jet Carburetor RPM to Horsepower Specs -
-
A Kohler K141 factory stock engine with a Carter or Walbro fully adjustable
main jet carburetor and top speed set at 3,600 RPM, will produce 6¼hp.
But with a Walbro fixed/non-adjustable main jet carburetor and top speed
set at 3,200 RPM, it'll produce 5.6hp.
-
A Kohler K160/K161 factory stock engine with a Carter or Walbro fully adjustable
main jet carburetor and top speed set at 3,600 RPM, will produce 6.6hp. But
with a Walbro fixed/non-adjustable main jet carburetor and top speed set
at 3,200 RPM, it'll produce 5.9hp.
-
A Kohler K181 or M8 factory stock engine with a Carter or Walbro fully adjustable
main jet carburetor and top speed set at 3,600 RPM, will produce 8hp. But
with a Walbro fixed/non-adjustable main jet carburetor and top speed set
at 3,200 RPM, it'll produce 7.1hp.
-
A Kohler K241 or M10 factory stock engine with a Carter or Kohler or Walbro
fully adjustable main jet carburetor and top speed set at 3,600 RPM, will
produce 10hp. But with a Walbro fixed/non-adjustable main jet carburetor
and top speed set at 3,200 RPM, it'll produce 8.9hp.
-
A Kohler K301 or M12 factory stock engine with a Carter or Kohler or Walbro
fully adjustable main jet carburetor and top speed set at 3,600 RPM, will
produce 12hp. But with a Walbro fixed/non-adjustable main jet carburetor
and top speed set at 3,200 RPM, it'll produce 10.7hp.
-
A Kohler K321 or M14 factory stock engine with a Carter or Kohler or Walbro
fully adjustable main jet carburetor and top speed set at 3,600 RPM, will
produce 14hp. But with a Walbro fixed/non-adjustable main jet carburetor
and top speed set at 3,200 RPM, it'll produce 12.4hp.
-
A Kohler K341 or M16 factory stock engine with a Carter or Kohler or Walbro
fully adjustable main jet carburetor and top speed set at 3,600 RPM, will
produce 16hp. But with a Walbro fixed/non-adjustable main jet carburetor
and top speed set at 3,200 RPM, it'll produce 14.2hp.
-
A Kohler MV16 opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engine with a Kohler or Walbro
fully adjustable main jet carburetor and top speed set at 3,600 RPM, the
engine will produce 16hp. But with a Walbro fixed/non-adjustable main jet
carburetor and top speed set at 3,200 RPM, it'll produce 14.2hp.
-
A Kohler M18 or MV18 opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engine with a Kohler
or Walbro fully adjustable main jet carburetor and top speed set at 3,600
RPM, will produce 18hp. But with a Walbro fixed/non-adjustable main jet
carburetor and top speed set at 3,200 RPM, it'll produce 16hp.
-
A Kohler KT17 or KT17 Series II opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engine with
a Kohler or Walbro fully adjustable main jet carburetor and top speed set
at 3,600 RPM, will produce 17hp. But with a Walbro fixed/non-adjustable main
jet carburetor and top speed set at 3,200 RPM, it'll produce 15.1hp.
-
A Kohler KT19 or KT19 Series II opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engine with
a Kohler or Walbro fully adjustable main jet carburetor and top speed set
at 3,600 RPM, will produce 19hp. But with a Walbro fixed/non-adjustable main
jet carburetor and top speed set at 3,200 RPM, it'll produce 16.9hp.
-
A Kohler M20 or MV20 opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engine with a Kohler
or Walbro fully adjustable main jet carburetor and top speed set at 3,600
RPM, will produce 20hp. But with a Walbro fixed/non-adjustable main jet
carburetor and top speed set at 3,200 RPM, it'll produce 17.8hp.
Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors with a fixed/non-adjustable main
jet are designed with emission controls in mind to run leaner to create less
air pollution. However, the main problem with most Walbros having a
fixed/non-adjustable main jet is during cooler weather operation. During
cool weather, and running at 3,200 RPM, the engine will sometimes run too
lean on fuel and operate erratically. To fix this, first of all, make sure
the hole (orifice) in the main jet is not partially clogged. If it is, use
a
carburetor jet cleaner wire set or an
oxy-acetylene welding torch tip cleaner to clear any debris
that may be lodged in the hole. Then use 150± PSI compressed air to
clear out any dirt/debris. If the engine still runs too lean on fuel, simply
enlarge the hole (orifice) in the main jet a few thousandths of an inch.
Then use 150± PSI compressed air to clear out any metal particles. Be
careful not to enlarge the hole (orifice) in the main jet too much, or the
engine will run rich on fuel! The hole (orifice) diameter in the OEM
factory main jet for 100% gasoline is 3/64" (.047"). If necessary, enlarge
the main jet and fuel inlet holes with a #55 (.052") drill bit. That's a
.0052" difference. After doing this, for cool weather, the engine should
run better, last longer and produce more power. But don't enlarge the hole
(orifice) in the main jet too much! A too big of a hole (orifice) will cause
an engine to run too rich on fuel, making it blow black smoke out the exhaust
and possibly fouling the spark plug. If the hole (orifice) is made too large,
the carburetor will be useless for gasoline, and E85 fuel must be used. But
if an engine is going to be used only during warm weather and if it runs
okay [during warm weather], don't enlarge the hole (orifice) in the main
jet.
On the newer carburetors with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet, the hole (orifice)
in the main jet may need to be enlarged .002"-.003" to give the engine a
little more fuel so it'll run better at higher RPM. Otherwise, the engine
could "burn up" or wear out prematurely due to the lean air/fuel mixture.
I have an assortment of tiny drill bits that I use on our customer's lawn
& garden equipment carburetors.
A new-style
Walbro carburetor with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet should never be used
on a non-governed (wide-open throttle) engine or on an engine that's going
to turn at 3,200 RPM! The reason for this is because if an engine operates
faster with a carburetor having a fixed/non-adjustable main jet, it'll run
too lean on fuel at high RPM (it'll draw much more air than fuel), which
will cause the combustion chamber to overheat and the excessive heat will
likely damage the piston and rings and possibly warp the cylinder head and/or
exhaust valve or even crack the cast iron engine block.
A lean fuel mixture can also melt away part of the
aluminum in the combustion chamber of an aluminum block engine.
The size number on the Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors is embossed
inside the carburetor and can be seen by looking inside the upper part of
the choke end, just above the venturi. A "52" carburetor has a 26mm diameter
throttle bore, which converts closely to 1.024 inches (26 ÷ 25.4 = 1.024"),
but actually measures 1.07".
And being the venturi in the
old-style Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors used on Kohler
engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161 and K181 can't be bored-out either,
the only option for pulling competitively with these is to fabricate an adapter
to fasten to the intake port on the engine block and use a #52 Walbro or
#26 Carter or Kohler carburetor.
The best way to determine which engine any particular carburetor is made
for is to measure the diameter of the throttle bore. Because a set of numbers
that's stamped on the carburetor body mean nothing, not even to Kohler Engine
dealers. If a carburetor measures .822" (13/16"), then it's designed for
the K141, K160/K161 or K181 engines. If it measures 1.07", then it's for
the 10hp or 12hp engines. And if it measures 1.17" or 1.2", it's for a K321,
K341 or K361 engine.
The Wrong Type of Choke Lever!
Whenever I get a carburetor with the choke lever in the wrong position, if
it has a steel choke shaft, I just grind the lever off at the flare and weld
it back on the shaft in the right position. But if it has a brass shaft,
I use a steel choke shaft out of a junk carburetor. Or if I don't have a
used one in stock, I machine a steel choke shaft from a 1/4" mild steel rod.
Like the old saying goes: "There's more than one way to skin a cat."
The Choke Shaft Detent Ball and Spring -
When removing the choke shaft, there's a tiny
(1/8" or 5/32") steel ball and small compression spring located at the 9:00
position when facing the choke end with the float area down. When the choke
shaft is removed, hold one finger over the screw hole and end of the choke
shaft hole to prevent the ball and spring from popping out and possibly getting
lost. FYI - The detent ball and spring are only required for hand-operation
of the choke plate to keep it in the open position on stand-alone engines,
such as garden tillers, portable generators/welders, portable air compressors,
portable water pumps, etc. If choke is operated by a sliding remote wire
cable control, such as on a garden tractor, then the ball and spring isn't
required and will serve no purpose whatsoever.
Installing the choke shaft over the friction (detent) ball can be tricky.
This is how it's done:
-


Place the carburetor on a sturdy
work bench or table with the choke end facing upward and the float area facing
toward you, or gently clamp it in a bench vise.
-
Install the ball and spring in the threaded air cleaner/filter assembly mounting
hole located at the 9:00 position with the choke end facing you and float
bowl downward. Certain Walbro carburetors have the ball and spring at the
3:00 position. Make sure the ball is centered with the spring.
-
Use an 1/8" roll pin punch with a blunt end to firmly compress the spring/ball.
-
When using your left hand to compress the ball/spring with the punch, place
a finger over the outside shaft hole to ensure the ball will not "pop out"
and go flying across your shop.
-
Use your right hand to gently slide the shaft in through the hole until it
makes contact with the punch, then at the same time while still pushing on
the shaft, reposition the punch at an angle (toward your right), then slowly
pull up on the punch at the same time continuing pushing the shaft through
the hole so the shaft can slide over the ball. Make sure your finger is
still over the end hole!
-
The end of the shaft should now be flush with the outside of the carburetor
body. Gently rotate the shaft to feel the ball "catch" in the detent hole.
-
If this goes well, install the choke plate and apply clean lubricating oil
through the screw holes for smooth choke operation and less wear to the shaft
and/or carburetor body.
How to adjust the fuel mixture screws on
a Kohler (or virtually any small engine) fully adjustable carburetor
- [Top of Page]
First of all, if the engine runs well at idle and at higher RPM, don't worry
about how the idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustment screws are
set. Carburetor adjustments depend on the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric
pressure and air temperature where the engine will be operated. In higher
elevations, air is thin or less dense. Therefore, the engine requires more
air than fuel to run well. But in lower elevations, air is heavy or dense,
and because of this, the engine requires less air than fuel. So there is
obviously no "one set adjustment" for all carburetors in all areas. And no
new or rebuilt carburetor with adjustable jet(s) for small engines, automotive
or whatever, come from the manufacturer or rebuilder with the idle speed,
idle air/fuel mixture or the high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments set
correctly. This is true for ordinary lawn and garden, and all small engines,
and pulling engines alike, with the exception of [Walbro] carburetors with
the fixed/non-adjustable high speed jet.
How the Idle Fuel Passageway Works in the Carter and Kohler Carburetors
-
On the Carter or Kohler (and Walbro) carburetors, the hole towards the bottom
of the long main needle adjuster is supposed to be open and not clogged,
so the engine can draw fuel through it for idling from the float bowl. The
idle fuel passageway for a Carter or Kohler carburetors goes as follows:
Fuel is first drawn through the lower end via the tiny hole(s) (orifice)
on the high speed needle adjuster, then through engine vacuum, fuel is drawn
up through the tube, and over and down toward the idle air/fuel mixture screw
(which sets at an angle), and then fuel is drawn into the throttle bore,
next to the throttle plate. The information below
Ê is mainly for Carter or Kohler carburetors.
The fuel mixture screws are used as follows:
-
There's three adjusting screws:
-
Idle speed screw. Adjusting this screw controls the idle speed of the engine.
It makes contact with the throttle lever.
-
Idle air/fuel mixture screw. This is adjusted ONLY when the engine is operating
at a lower/slow idle speed.
-
High speed air/fuel mixture screw. This is adjusted ONLY when the engine
is operating at higher/fast RPM. (Well above idle.) Fuel is not drawn
through the idle fuel passageway at higher RPM, and adjusting the idle fuel
mixture screw has no effect how well the engine runs at higher RPM.
-
After lightly bottoming out both fuel mixture screws, rotate each
one 1-½ to 2 turns out. This is the initial setting just to get the
engine running. Final adjustment can be made so the engine will run smoothly.
-
On some small carburetors (gas string trimmers, chainsaws, etc.), there's
two air/fuel mixture adjusting screws that's located next to each other on
the same side of the carburetor. The one that's closest to the throttle shaft
or plate is usually the idle air/fuel mixture screw. The screw on the side
and at an angle on the Carter or Kohler carburetor is for the idle air/fuel
mixture. It controls the amount of fuel that's mixed with the air at idle
speed. With the engine idling at a slow speed, adjust this one until the
engine runs smooth. Slow the engine RPM down with the idle speed screw and
readjust the idle mixture screw. Repeat this process until the engine runs
so slow, you can count the revolutions every time the piston hits. Then set
the idle speed at factory specs (usually 1,000-1,200 RPM) so the dipper on
the connecting rod will strike the oil and thoroughly lubricate the moving
parts inside the engine. A slightly fast idle speed will prevent damage or
excessive wear on parts inside the engine.
-
Use a
1/32" high speed steel spiral drill bit to enlarge
the lower hole (orifice) on high speed needle air/fuel adjuster screws in
Carter or Kohler #26, #28 and #30 carburetors to create more suction through
the tube for the fuel so the engine will start quicker (when throttle is
in idle position), idle better, and idle down upon deceleration without stalling.
No need to use this on adjusters with two lower holes. NOTE:
Carefully enlarge the hole by hand with drill bit clamped in a
mini micro pin vise hand drill chuck. Be careful when handling
any tiny drill bit because they can break easily. After enlarging hole, use
150± PSI compressed air to clear out any metal cuttings from inside
the adjuster tube. An ingenious, thoroughly researched and innovative concept
by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this.
-
The screw on top of the carburetor body or under the float bowl, or next
to the idle mixture screw is for the high speed air/fuel mixture.
It controls the amount of fuel that's mixed with the air at higher RPMs (3,600
RPM or
wide
open throttle). With the engine running at fast speed (3,600 RPM), slowly
rotate this screw one way or the other until the engine operates smoothly.
By the way - the idle mixture screw has nothing to do with the high speed
operation of the engine, and vice-versa.
-
After making the final fuel mixture screw adjustments, set the throttle control
so the (stock) engine will rev at governed speed (3,600 RPM).
-
The adjustments that's mentioned here are not meant for every type of carburetor.
Some adjust differently. If there's instructions, or you're not sure on how
to adjust them, just adjust them until the engine runs smooth.
[Top of Page].

Many times when cleaning a Carter or Kohler carburetor, the
welch plug that's on the side of the carburetor doesn't need to be removed.
The only time it needs to be removed is when the tiny fuel feed hole that's
next to the throttle plate becomes clogged with dried gas or debris. To clear
this hole, with the idle air/fuel mixture screw and the high speed needle
adjuster removed, thread a 1/4-28 UNF screw/bolt in place of the high speed
needle adjuster (this will place more air pressure against the idle fuel
feed hole), apply 150± PSI compressed air in the idle mixture screw
hole, and place your finger inside the throttle bore over the fuel feed hole,
and if you feel air come out of the hole, the hole is cleared out. If air
does come out of the idle fuel feed hole, then the welch plug will need to
be removed and manually cleared out with a
carburetor jet cleaner wire set or an
oxy-acetylene welding torch tip cleaner. A new welch plug
will need to be installed.
Why Won't a Kohler Engine Start (When Hot or Cold) with the Throttle
Plate and Choke Plate in the Open Position?
If an engine blows black smoke out the exhaust while running, then here
are the main causes:
Black exhaust smoke is when an engine is getting too much gas and/or not
enough air in the combustion chamber. The causes for this are either... (listed
from most common to rare causes)
-
Choke plate isn't fully opening.
-
Solution: Check for bent choke plate, binding of remote solid wire
cable-controlled choke operation or adjust cable that controls opening/closing
of choke plate.
-
Too rich of fuel mixture adjustment on the carburetor.
-
Solution: Adjust carburetor or repair as needed.
-
Worn float valve (needle and seat).
-
Solution: Install new float valve and seat.
-
Bad float.
-
Solution: Install new or good used float.
-
Float out of adjustment.
-
Solution: Set the float level so it's parallel with the carburetor body
with the carburetor turned upside-down.
-
If the fuel baffle/splash shield is hard and stiff, it can push down on the
float after the float bowl is installed, preventing the float from shutting
off the fuel at the float valve (needle and seat).
-
Solution: Install new fuel baffle/splash shield.
-
Too much fuel pressure if using a high pressure electric fuel pump (more
than 4 PSI).
-
Hole (orifice) in the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube) have been drilled too
large.
-
Solution: Either plug the hole (orifice) with
electrical solder and
soldering gun, and redrill to .0625" (1/16") or install
new main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube).
-
Only one [Kohler or aftermarket] condenser being used with a
high-output/performance ignition coil.
-
Solution: Install two [Kohler or aftermarket] condensers or one automotive
(Chevrolet/GM) distributor condenser.
Also, sometimes flooding of the carburetor will deposit gas in the motor
oil, but only in a vertical shaft engine. Because gas can't seep into the
crankcase on horizontal shaft engines. The cause of the problem is the carburetor
is flooding. The gas seeps past the piston ring gaps and into the crankcase.
To fix this, clean the float valve (needle and seat) in the carburetor, or
install a new carburetor overhaul/rebuild kit with a new float valve needle
and seat. Also, clean out the fuel hoses with 150± PSI compressed air
and install a new fuel filter. And then the oil will need to be drained and
fresh motor oil installed.
The Cause of Slight Carburetor Flooding or "Loading Up on Fuel" at Slow
Idle with a High Performance/Long Duration Camshaft -
Sometimes when using a high performance/long duration camshaft, regardless
if the engine has a stock or modified carburetor, if the engine idles for
a long period of time, it may run rich on fuel at a slow idle speed. What
causes this is with a long duration cam, intake vacuum is low and with a
single cylinder engine, being the valves stay open longer, excess fuel builds
up in the carburetor and/or intake tube. All engines with a long duration
camshaft have lower than normal vacuum at slow idle. The longer the duration
a cam has, the lower the vacuum. What causes excess fuel to build up in the
intake is the long duration of the cam lobes holds the [intake] valve open
longer, and at slow idle, pressure of the piston moving upward in the cylinder
blows some of the air/fuel back into the carburetor and/or intake tube. And
as the engine is revved up, raw unburned fuel black smoke (gas) will blow
out the exhaust pipe until the fuel is cleared out of the carburetor and/or
intake tube. With the engine running well above idle, air becomes trapped
within the combustion chamber and the piston don't have time to push any
air/fuel back into the carburetor and/or intake tube. This happens with all
types of fuels and there's nothing that can be done about it. It's the nature
of the long duration camshaft. Some might think when this happens that there's
something wrong with the carburetor, and nothing can be done to the idle
fuel passageway to prevent this. Just make a simple adjustment with the idle
air/fuel mixture screw, set the engine at a fast idle and don't allow the
engine to idle for a long period of time.
[Return To Previous Paragraph, Section
or Website]
The Major Causes of Carburetor Flooding -
Personally, I don't put any additives in my gas. I think it's a waste
of money and effort. I just dump any left-over gas from my customer's small
engine equipment in my car or truck, let it mix with the fresh gas that's
already in the tank, then I use fresh gas in my customer's small engine
equipment. If there's water in the gas, I separate the gas from the water
in a bucket (water always goes to the bottom). And if there's dirt/debris
in the gas, I strain/filter the gas through a clean
cloth shop towel or a
fine woven fabric window curtain over a
large funnel in a gas can.
What prevents most carburetor and fuel system from having problems when using
gasoline is to run the engine out of fuel or draining the entire fuel system
if it's not going to be used for more than 30 days at a time. If there's
no fuel left in the system, then there should be no problems. The following
causes are listed from most common to rare.
If fuel drips out of or from the carburetor...
-
Dirt/debris, lint or hair lodged between float valve and seat. This will
prevent the float valve from fully closing against the seat.
-
Solution: Clean float valve and seat, clear out entire fuel system with
150± PSI compressed air and install new fuel filter.
-
Old, dry-rotted pleated paper fuel filter. The filtering material is brittle,
can tear easy, which will allow dirt/debris to pass through the torn
opening.
-
Solution: Clean carburetor, clear out entire fuel system with 150±
PSI compressed air and install new fuel filter.
-
150± PSI compressed air blown through pleated paper fuel filter too
many times to clean it out. This will cause the filtering material to
tear, rip or "blow out," allowing dirt/debris to pass through the torn
opening.
-
Solution: Clean carburetor, clear out entire fuel system with 150±
PSI compressed air and install new fuel filter.
-
Worn or damaged fuel inlet valve and/or seat.
-
Solution: New replacement required.
-
Loose float valve seat in carburetor body (if it's the threaded-in type).
Sometimes these are not installed tight enough, resulting in a light flooding
condition.
-
Solution: If tightening the seat doesn't stop the fuel leak, then a new
float valve and seat with a new sealing gasket will need to be installed.
-
Fuel leak at the carburetor float
bowl rubber O-ring seal. Only happens when engine is in operation. Circumference
of float bowl not sealing tight against the
neoprene
rubber O-ring seal and fuel baffle/splash shield in carburetor body.
-
Solution: Remove float bowl, and from inside the bowl, use a small to
medium size hammer to flatten the area around the hole where the bolt fastens
the float bowl to the carburetor body. Doing this will place more pressure
on the circumference of the float bowl against the carburetor body so the
O-ring will seal better. Don't over-tighten the float bowl bolt because the
threads in the carburetor could strip out. Also, make sure the O-ring and
fuel baffle/splash shield are in place when reinstalling the float bowl.
If gas constantly pours out of the carburetor...
-
Bad or damaged float (hole in float). To test for a bad float, if it's
a hollow brass float, remove it from the carburetor and either move it around
in your hand or hold it next to your ear. If you feel and hear a sloshing
sound, then there's gas inside it. NOTE: Repairing by re-soldering a brass
float will most likely not work or last long. NOTE: Do NOT use a
propane torch or small
oxy-acetylene torch to solder a hole in a brass float that
had gas in it! The gas fumes inside WILL cause the float to explode!
-
Solution: New or good/used float replacement is required.
-
Small hole in bottom of float bowl. This happens to aluminum float bowls
and is caused by corrosion from water in the fuel system. Water is heavier
than gas. So it goes below the gas and straight to the carburetor. Water
will corrode an aluminum float bowl. And during winter, it'll freeze in the
float bowl and crush the float.
-
Solution: New replacement of either part is required.
-
Float stuck to bottom of float
bowl. This is caused by engine setting in
long term storage
with gas left in the fuel tank and carburetor. To prevent this from happening
or happening in the future, drain the entire fuel system, then loosen the
float bowl retaining bolt to finish draining all the fuel from the float
bowl.
-
Solution: Cleaning of float and bowl is required.
-
Float valve installed incorrectly. (When installing a new overhaul/rebuild
kit.)
-
Solution: The rubber tip (pointed end) goes in the fuel inlet seat and not
against the float.
-
If the carburetor on an engine
has been setting for some time without an air cleaner/filter assembly, and
if gas pours out of the carburetor only when cranking the engine, especially
with a mechanical fuel pump, then the gas stops pouring out when the engine
isn't cranked, check for a clogged atmospheric vent opening (air passageway
from inside the float bowl area to outside of carburetor) in the carburetor.
Sometimes a
mud dauber (wasp-like insect) will build their nest in
a place like this. (I've seen this happen a few times with carburetor rebuilds.)
-
Solution: Clear out the atmospheric vent opening (air passageway from inside
the float bowl area to outside of carburetor) and entire carburetor with
150± PSI compressed air.
-
If an electric fuel pump is used, it is either producing too much pressure,
or if there's a fuel pressure regulator in-line, it's set too high or stuck
in position.
What makes crankcase oil black is blow-by due to either worn piston rings,
carburetor flooding or the engine running rich on fuel (gas). And if there's
gas in the oil (you can smell the presence of gas), this means there's a
hole in the diaphragm in the mechanical fuel pump. Being there are no fuel
pump repair kits available nowadays, an either good used or new replacement
fuel pump is required.
How to Separate Gasoline from Water -
No need to dispose of fresh gas just because it's contaminated with water
(and/or dirt and debris). And with the price of gas nowadays, this would
be a wise thing to do.
-
Drain the water-contaminated gas from the entire fuel system (fuel tank,
fuel hose, fuel pump, filter and carburetor) into a clean container of adequate
size. When gas is contaminated with water, the water (and dirt/debris)
should immediately settle to the bottom of the container and the gas will
be on top. You should be able to see the water at the bottom with a bright
light.
-
To separate the gas from the water, carefully pour the gas into another clean
container, but watch that the water don't enter the other container, too.
If there's dirt/debris floating around or suspended in the water-contaminated
gas, place a filtering material, such as a
paint filter,
coffee filter,
fine mesh screen wire,
clean cloth shop towel or a
fine woven fabric window curtain drooped into a
large funnel in a clean container of adequate size, and
pour the gas through the filtering material/funnel, and again, watch that
the water don't enter the other container. The water can be seen under the
gas.
-
NOTE: Adding
gas line anti-freeze (alcohol) breaks up or disperse the
water into tiny droplets throughout the gas, which then pose no freezing.
But if there's A LOT of water in the gas, then the water-contaminated gas
will need to be drained and flushed from the entire fuel system. Being water
is heavier than gas, it will always go to the bottom in a container or gas
tank. With a bright light, you can see the water from the gas in an open
container. The water will be at the bottom and the gas will be on top. The
water can be separated from the gas by using two containers - pour the gas
from the first container into the second container and do not allow the water
get into the second container. The gas can still be reused. If the gas has
any amount of alcohol (10% or
E85), the alcohol
will be absorbed by or mixed with the water, to save the alcohol content
with the gas, pour the 10%/E85 gas/water from the first container through
a genuine (not synthetic)
chamois
leather (real sheep's skin) drooped into the second container. The chamois
must first be soaked with clean gasoline, then the chamois will soak up or
absorb the water and allow the alcohol and gas to pass through. Squeeze the
water from the chamois, hang it up to dry out, and it can be used for next
time.
-
Use 150± PSI compressed air to clear out the remaining water-contaminated
gas from the entire fuel system and use a dry shop towel or water-absorbing
paper towel clamped to a
long needle nosed pliers to soak up the gas/water in the
fuel tank. If necessary, use a sealed flashlight (to prevent a possible explosion
due to gas fumes) to see if the tank is 100% dry.
-
Pour the water-free gas back in the fuel tank and dispose of the contaminated
water in the container.
Gasoline and alcohol fuels
are both extremely flammable! Use caution and don't smoke, avoid making sparks
or don't have an open flame exposed when working near or with either of them.
Work in a well-ventilated area, too.
By the way - We've been to a lot of garden tractor pulls through the
years and noticed that some pulling tractors leak fuel in places where a
fuel leak shouldn't be. Therefore, I think the safety inspections should
include checking the fuel hoses for dry-rotting, cracks, fuel leaks, loose
fittings, etc. (The tractors should have sturdy wheelie bars, too.) The
inspectors should grab hold of the fuel hose(s) with their hand, bend it
and slightly jerk on it to check for durability. This is very important.
Especially in a kid's class. Don't wait until a small issue becomes a major
problem, then turn in to a catastrophe. If a pulling club's sanctioning safety
rules are enforced, and pullers would build their tractors right and maintain
them regularly, there wouldn't be any injuries, fires, or fear of a fire.
Click or tap here
to read more about a garden pulling tractor catching on fire.

If an engine won't idle or idles poorly, if it's a Carter or
Kohler carburetor, chances are, there's old, dried gas inside the high speed
air/fuel needle adjuster stem/tube. To fix this: first, enlarge the lower
hole with a 1/32" drill bit. Then use a small,
bendable steel wire, such as a
bread wrapper wire twist tie with the coating stripped
off, to clean out inside the tube. Then use the 150± PSI compressed
air to thoroughly clear it out. Suck through the tube with your mouth to
make sure it's clear and unclogged. If performing this won't clear out the
tube, then acquire a new high speed air/fuel needle adjuster screw or one
in good condition. But make sure it's the correct adjuster for your particular
carburetor! (This is how I clear these out whenever I rebuild a Carter or
Kohler carburetor and it works great. I rarely replace the high speed adjuster
with a new one.)
If an engine idles slow when the throttle lever is held to the slowest
position by hand, but refuses to idle down on its own, the following may
be the causes:
-
Governor spring tension too tight or out of adjustment.
-
Throttle linkage is binding or obstruction in movement of linkage.
-
Clamp on governor lever that's on the governor cross-shaft is out of adjustment.
But if an engine idles well, but runs only at higher RPM (up to 3,200
RPM with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet; or 3,600 RPM with an adjustable
main jet) with the choke partially closed, or if it surges or hesitates to
rev up, this means the engine is running too lean on fuel, and following
are the most likely causes: (listed from most common to rare)
-
Partially clogged hole (orifice) in the main jet, or if the carburetor has
a fixed/non-adjustable high speed main jet, then the hole (orifice) in the
main jet is calibrated too small for the size of engine it's installed on.
-
Solution: Remove carburetor,
remove float bowl and float, and use a
carburetor jet cleaner wire set or an
oxy-acetylene welding torch tip cleaner to clear out the
dried gas and/or dirt/debris from the main jet.
When cleaning the hole (orifice) in the main
jet, use a wire cleaner of the appropriate size, and be careful not to enlarge
the hole, or the engine may run too rich on fuel! But if
the engine still runs the same after cleaning the main jet, then the hole
(orifice) in the main jet will need to be slightly if enlarged a few thousandths
of an inch to give the engine a little more fuel. After cleaning or enlarging
the hole (orifice) in the main jet, always use 150± PSI compressed air
to clear the debris and/or metal fragments from the carburetor.
-
Clogged vent hole in gas cap or the fuel tank has
the wrong type of gas cap. Most small engine gas tanks need a vented cap
so outside air can be drawn into the tank as the fuel is depleted.

If a gas cap is missing the gasket/splash shield, this part
can be made by cutting out a piece of poster board material (cereal box,
etc.) so it'll fit snug inside the gas cap. Be sure to make a small pin hole
(1/16") off-center in the gasket for the atmospheric vent. If fuel spews
out of the vent hole in the gas cap with a full tank of gas due to normal
engine vibration and to prevent a possible fire, place a small piece of foam
rubber
(reticulated polyurethane foam) between the gasket and vent
hole in the cap. The foam will absorb the fuel and block it from being forced
out the vent hole, and it'll allow incoming air to pass through it as the
fuel is depleted in the tank.
-
Vacuum leak where the carburetor fastens to the engine block.
-
Solution: First check if the carburetor mounting flange is warped. Use
a wide, flat
belt or disc sander to remove any warpage and restore flatness.
If the flange is warped, the sander will make contact where the bolt holes
are, but not between the bolt holes. (Sometimes I use the side of
the abrasive cutting wheel on my
14" electric chop saw with a metal cut-off wheel. Works
great! Extreme care is recommended and be sure to use eye protection!)
-
worn loose throttle shaft and/or throttle shaft hole.
-

Solution: If throttle shaft hole in the carburetor body
has a counterbore, install new flat bronze bushing and/or new throttle shaft,
or if no counterbore is present, have throttle shaft hole precision-bored
for installation of a new [oiled] foam seal and bronze sleeve bushing.
Click or tap here for more
information.
-
Clogged main jet hole (orifice) in the carburetor.
-
On a Carter or Kohler carburetor, check that the small hole just beneath
the choke plate is clear. It needs to go all the way to the main jet. Spray
some WD40 or aerosol carburetor cleaner in the hole and see if it comes out
the main jet.
-
The problem may be with the ignition, and not in the carburetor. The engine
probably has a weak spark. This will cause it to die upon revving up. At
idle speed, an engine runs on low compression. But upon revving up, more
air (and fuel) is introduced in the combustion chamber, compression is increased,
and this is what makes an engine rev up. The increased air pressure in the
combustion chamber makes higher compression and at an increased/open throttle,
this will literally blow the weak spark out at the spark plug's tip.
-
Solution: install new spark plug, clean or install new points, (clean
the contacts on new points due to oxidation in
long term storage),
install two [Kohler or aftermarket] condensers or one automotive (Chevrolet/GM)
distributor condenser if a high-output/performance coil is being used. Or
the ignition system may be operating off of low voltage from the battery
or defective (low output) charging system.
-
Insufficient main bearing/crankshaft end-play clearance.
-
If a high output/performance ignition coil (Bosch blue coil) is being used,
it require two [Kohler or aftermarket] condensers or one automotive
(Chevrolet/GM) distributor condenser.
-
And you know, I've seen small twigs and sticks get lodged in the fuel tank
outlet port. Sometimes mischievous kids will dump dirt and debris in the
tank, too. After 30+ years of repairing lawn mowers for the public, I think
I've seen it all.
FYI - If the spark plug's tip is black and/or has wet gas on it, and if the
carburetor has been thoroughly cleaned (multiple times), but you think the
problem is still in the carburetor, well, the carburetor is probably working
fine because the engine is obviously getting plenty of fuel. As an older,
experienced mechanic once said: "Most carburetor problems are electrical."
Meaning faulty/weak ignition system. This have been proven true more times
than I can remember.
Backfiring out the exhaust upon deceleration is normal for virtually all
engines since gas is still going through the combustion chamber, compressing
in the exhaust and exploding from the exhaust heat. But if an engine constantly
backfires out the exhaust at any speeds after running for several minutes,
the problem may be...
-
Carburetor mounting bolts may be loose.
-
Carburetor mounting flange is warped, causing a vacuum leak.
-
Solution: Resurface the mounting flange on a wide, flat
belt- or disc-sander to remove warpage and restore flatness,
install a new gasket. (I use the side of the cutting wheel on my
14" electric chop saw with a metal cut-off wheel. Works
great! Be sure to use eye protection!)
-
Hole (orifice) in the main jet in the carburetor could be partially clogged,
resulting in a lean air/fuel mixture.
-
Weak spark. If a high-output/performance [12 volt battery ignition] coil
is being used, then two [Kohler or aftermarket] condensers or one automotive
(Chevrolet/GM) distributor condenser is required so the coil can produce
full voltage at the spark plug's tip.
-
And despite which gas is burned in a competition pulling engine, use only
the type of spark plug that's recommended by the manufacturer of the engine.
If the wrong type of plug is used, the engine will lose power.
The fuel solenoid used on newer
Briggs & Stratton, Kohler, etc., engines is located on the bottom of
the float bowl. The spring-loaded plunger in it stops the fuel supply to
the combustion chamber by blocking off the main jet as soon as the ignition
is turned off. With this type of fuel solenoid, the engine will die immediately
when the ignition is turned off. This solenoid also prevents a loud BANG
out the muffler when the ignition is turned off while the engine is hot.
Without it, when the [hot] engine is turned off while throttled up, unburned
gas will continue to pass through the combustion chamber, build up in the
still red-hot muffler where the gas is compressed with hot air, and then
produce a loud BANG out the muffler.
The solenoid is supposed to make a "click" sound when the ignition is turned
on. When in doubt rather it's the solenoid that's defective or bad wiring
on the tractor, the solenoid can be tested with a 12 volt battery. With the
solenoid removed from the carburetor, connect the battery positive (+) post
to the solenoid wire, and connect the battery negative () post to the
body of the solenoid. If the plunger quickly withdraws in the solenoid body,
it's in good condition. If it doesn't withdraw, then the wire connecting
to the solenoid has an open in it.
If the solenoid fails to function, it can be replaced with a new one, or
remove it and simply snip off the protruding pin (plunger rod), and reinstall
it. Doing this will allow the engine to draw fuel and run. But remember to
idle the engine down for a few minutes each time before shutting it off,
or like I said, it may produce a loud BANG out the muffler.
Advertisement:
If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed
in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501
W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. When
you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with
the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to the
public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate our business our business to other property with a bigger
and better shop so we can provide many more high quality parts and professional
services.)
Kohler Anti-Backfire/Engine
Shut-Off Solenoid Valve Kit. The anti-backfire solenoid valve [in the
carburetor] shuts off the engine when the ignition is turned off. The valve
only blocks off the main jet in the carburetor to prevent fuel from entering
the combustion chamber. It does not prevent fuel off from entering the float
bowl. The way the solenoid works is, upon engine shut down, the valve blocks
air from entering the float bowl through the atmospheric vent opening (air
passageway from inside the float bowl area to outside of carburetor; which
is where the solenoid valve is located). When this happens, the engine can't
draw fuel, so it shuts down. The solenoid is energized the entire time the
ignition switch is on. The reason Kohler installed this feature is to prevent
the engine from producing a loud backfire sound (BANG!) out the muffler when
it's shut off. With the solenoid in working condition and upon engine shut
down, no unburned fuel enters the hot muffler, therefore, no backfire. When
the solenoid fails to function, the engine will not start. This particular
part is designed for Kohler engine models K181 with specification numbers
13802, 13803, 13804, 13805, 13806, 13807, 13808, 13809, 13810, 13811, 13812,
13813, 13814, 13815, 13816, 13817, 13818, 13820, 30671, 30715, 30739; M18
with specification numbers 24610, 24637, 24652; M20 with specification numbers
49547, 49564, 49605; K582 with specification numbers 36246, 36249, 36261,
36266, 36268, 36285, 36310, 36327, 36337, 36350, 36371, 36373, 36374, 36376,
36382, 36392, 24600, 24603. OEM Kohler part # 25 755 05-S. $82.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
NOTE: Being the solenoid (OEM Kohler part # 25 755 06-S) for Kohler engine
models M18 with specification numbers 24563, 24568, 24574, 24577, 24592,
24594, 24599, 24619, 24630, 24631, 24636, 24646, 24655, 24656, 24659, 24664,
24674, 24696; M20 with specification numbers 49514, 49544, 49545, 49565,
49569, 49570, 49572, 49584, 49595, 49599, 49608, 49623, 49624, 49629; MV20
with specification numbers 57527, 57528 is no longer available, to convert
these engines without use of the solenoid, remove the failed solenoid and
valve, cut some short threads in the hole (remove the float bowl first and
use compressed air to clear out the metal cuttings), and install a 3/8" Allen
set screw in the hole. Don't thread the set screw deep in the hole, or it
will block off outside atmospheric air from entering the float bowl. Without
a solenoid, the engine would require a different ignition switch to shut
off the spark. And the engine should be idled down before shutting it off
to lessen the chance of a backfire out the muffler. |
How To Loosen a Gummed-Up, Stuck, Corroded or Rusted-In-Place Throttle
or Choke Shaft, or Adjusting Screw -
EVAPO-RUST® and
Metal Rescue are very safe products to use and
works wonders to remove rust and loosen virtually any rusted or corroded
metal part! Just soak the carburetor body for 1 hour for light rust and up
to 12 hours for extremely heavy rust. Then use small locking pliers
(Vise Grip) to GENTLY rotate the shaft back and forth
. Don't force it because it could become twisted
and/or break off at the closest plate retaining screw hole! It may rotate
(loosen) just a few thousandths of an inch. After it rotates slightly, spray
it again and gently rotate it again. Eventually, it should rotate more and
swivel 100% free. These products are very safe to use and they work wonders
on virtually anything that's rusted!
Or use a
heavy duty bathroom toilet bowl cleaner. Most of them will
remove rust and scale. If it reads on the label that it will remove rust,
then that's the one to use. Pour the cleaner in a container that's large
enough for the carburetor body, and allow it to soak for about 30 minutes
and then rinse it off with water. The throttle or choke shaft should swivel
with no problems.
Or use distilled
white vinegar to remove rust from the outside of gas tanks, tools,
bolts/nuts, clutch pressure plates or virtually any exterior steel or cast
iron object. Check it out here:
vinegar rust removal - YouTube. Distilled white vinegar
will not remove rust from inside a gas tank because it cannot be "rubbed
loose" by hand from inside the tank.
GUNK Liquid Wrench® also works wonders to loosen virtually
any rusted or corroded metal part! Just spray the ends of the throttle or
choke shaft, let soak for about 30 minutes or perhaps overnight, then use
small locking pliers
(Vise Grip) to GENTLY rotate the shaft back and forth
. Don't force it because it could become twisted
and/or break off at the closest plate retaining screw hole! It may rotate
(loosen) just a few thousandths of an inch. After it rotates slightly, spray
it again and gently rotate it again. Eventually, it should rotate more and
swivel 100% free.
If the shaft(s) refuse to loosen with either Evapo-Rust, Liquid Wrench or
heavy duty bathroom toilet bowl cleaner, remove the float bowl, float, fuel
baffle/splash shield and O-ring seal. Clamp the carburetor in a bench vice,
then use a
propane torch or an
oxy-acetylene torch to LIGHTLY heat the carburetor
body next to the shaft (don't get the carburetor body too hot!), and use
the locking pliers
(Vise Grip) to GENTLY rotate the shaft back and forth
. The shaft should swivel 100% free within a
few seconds of heating. Heating might also work to remove a stuck-in-place
idle speed adjuster screw, idle fuel mixture screw or the main adjuster screw.
Be very gentle rotating a brass screw to loosen it because being brass is
a soft metal, it could snap off! And be careful not to get cast aluminum
too hot, it may crumble or split into pieces! Don't use a torch in an attempt
to remove a stuck main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube) from a carburetor that's
in good condition. Being the aluminum surrounding the main jet/nozzle (emulsion
tube) is thin, it will most likely crumble or split into pieces under the
severe heat, rendering the carburetor useless.
How to Clean the Inside of a Heavily Rusted or Dirty Metal Fuel Tank
-
Fill the fuel tank with
EVAPO-RUST®,
Metal Rescue™, or a
heavy duty bathroom toilet bowl cleaner. Most of these
will remove rust and scale. If it reads on the label that it will remove
rust, then that's the one to use. Leave it for 1 hour for light rust and
up to 12 hours for extremely heavy rust, drain and flush with clean water,
allow to thoroughly dry. These products are very safe to use and they work
wonders on virtually anything that's rusted! Or use
distilled white
vinegar to remove rust from inside gas tanks, tools, bolts/nuts, clutch
pressure plates or virtually any steel or cast iron part:
vinegar rust removal - YouTube.
Another method to clean an internally rusted or especially dirty fuel tank,
put some small driveway gravel in the tank with water, seal the fuel outlet
fitting and gas cap vent holes (make sure the gas
cap has a good seal), then literally and vigorously shake the heck out of
it! Or for less tiresome labor, put the gravel and water in the tank, seal
it up, securely tie a blanket around it and then put it in a clothes dryer
or fasten it in an electric paint shaker. Set the dryer on the cold or "No
Heat" setting, and let the dryer tumble or paint shaker shake for a couple
of hours. When the water is drained and majority of the gravel removed, use
a garden water hose to thoroughly clean out inside the tank. It should look
new inside. If there's still some rust or dirt/debris in it, repeat the process
until all the rust or dirt/debris is broken loose. And despite of what you've
probably heard, putting sugar in a fuel tank will NOT ruin the engine! Don't
believe in everything you hear. Read about it here:
snopes.com:
Sugar in the fuel tank. YouTube link:
Sugar in Your Gas Engine Fuel Tank.
How to Repair a Hole in a Metal Fuel or Oil Storage Tank -
If virtually any kind of
ferrous metal
(steel) tank have a rusted or dented hole in it and leaks fuel or liquid,
it can be successfully repaired by using a quality-made
fuel tank sealant. But if the hole is too large for the
sealant, and if the tank is made of steel, a reputable
automotive radiator repair shop can solder a [tin] patch
over the hole. Then ask them to pressure test the tank filled with air submerged
in water to see if the patched hole leaks (bubbles). They usually have
rubber expansion plugs of various sizes to block-off the
inlet and outlet openings or ports.
How to Remove the Soft Brass Retaining
Screws from the Carter or Kohler Throttle or Choke Shafts Without Breaking
Them Off -

First of all, I hate when people throw away a reusable throttle
or choke shaft just because it has a broken off screw in it. The only reason
most carburetor manufacturers install soft brass screws in the throttle and
choke shafts for the throttle and choke plates is because the protruding
threaded ends can be easily flared. This saves the factory money from not
having to use lock washers or liquid threadlocker. This prevents the screws
from loosening and dislodging from the throttle shaft and becoming lodged
between the intake valve and seat, or from being sucked into the combustion
chamber, and damage the cylinder head and piston.
When removing these screws and to prevent from breaking them off, first,
grind down the protruding/flared ends with a
Dremel or equivalent small rotary grinder chucked with
either a very small grinding stone
(chainsaw sharpening stone) or an 1/8" high speed steel
end mill until the threads are flush with the shaft. Then
the screws can be easily removed from the shaft without breaking them off.
Be sure to use a quality-made screwdriver with a flat blade and square edge
that fits the slot in the screw head perfectly to prevent from distorting
or "stripping out" the slot, too. (This is why I use and offer for sale
hardened stainless steel screws [with split lock washers]. Unlike [OEM] soft
brass screws, stainless steel will not strip out or break off.)
But should a brass screw break off in the throttle or choke shaft without
first grinding down the protruding/flared end, sometimes the shaft can be
difficult to remove from the carburetor body due to the protruding flared
end. Or if the slot in the screw head gets "stripped-out." In this case,
use the
Dremel to grind the flared end of the [broken] screw
and/or grind off the head of the screw until it's flush with the shaft. Then
the shaft can be removed. Afterwards, the broken screw can be drilled out
using a milling machine clamped in a vise with a 1/16"
center bit drill to make a small depression in the exact
center of the broken screw to prevent
"drill
bit skating" so either a 5/64", #46 or 2mm drill bit can be used to drill
out the rest of the broken screw, and then the threads may need to be
straightened/cleaned with a 3-48 UNC taper hand tap. Don't use a center punch
on the broken screw. This could bend the shaft, create a crack when straightened,
possibly cause it to break later when in use. The throttle and choke shafts
in Carter and Kohler carburetors originally come with
3-48 UNC screws. A #3 split lock washer should
be used with a 3-48 UNC screw. Should the
threaded hole become enlarged from drilling out the broken screw, the hole(s)
can be made bigger with a 4-40 UNC tap, and
a 4-40 UNC screw with a #4 split lock washer will need to be installed. By
the way - liquid threadlocker is not required with a lock washer.
[Return To Previous Paragraph or
Website]
Correct Orientation and
Installation of the Throttle Plate and Choke Plate -
All OEM factory-made throttle plates, rather small engine, automotive, farm
tractor engine, etc., are made 3% oblong and have a slight angle on the sides
that seal against the sides of the throttle bore. The angle and oblong shape
prevents the majority of incoming air from entering the combustion chamber
in the idle position so the engine can idle at a slow speed. To reinstall
the throttle plate correctly, on the Carter, Kohler and Walbro carburetors
that's used on Kohler engines, the C (Carter), K (Kohler) or
W (Walbro) stamped on the throttle plate faces outward and toward
your right when facing the throttle bore with the carburetor positioned right
side up and float bowl down (as shown in the picture to the right
à), and make sure the throttle plate
is centered with the throttle bore in the fully closed position when the
screws are installed and tightened. Back off the idle speed adjustment screw
to allow the throttle plate to be in the fully closed position. Then use
the tips of small [pointy] needle-nose pliers to align the holes in the throttle
(or choke plate) with the screw holes in the throttle (or choke shaft). If
the throttle plate is installed in reverse or not 100% centered with the
throttle bore, too much air will by-pass the throttle plate and the engine
will not be able to idle down at a slow speed. Most aftermarket (Chinese-made)
oblong throttle plates are not stamped with a letter and don't have an angle
on the sides, so they can be installed in either direction, and they'll still
seal 100% and the engine should idle down just as well.
And when reinstalling a choke plate, make sure it's centered with the carburetor
intake in the fully closed position. If the choke plate is not aligned with
the carburetor intake in the fully closed position, the engine will be hard
to start or may not start at all.
Be sure to use a split lock
washer of the correct size on the throttle plate and choke plate retaining
screws or apply
medium strength liquid threadlocker on the threads of the
screws to prevent the screw from becoming dislodged from the shaft and possibly
being sucked into the combustion chamber, resulting in a possible bent intake
valve, damaged valve seat or severe damage to the piston, cylinder head and/or
cylinder wall. [Return To Previous Paragraph
or Website]
How to Remove the Main Jet/Nozzle (Emulsion
Tube) from a Carter or Kohler #26, #28 or #30 Carburetor -
![10-18hp Kohler (or Carter [model N]) Carburetor](images/carb.jpg)
When rebuilding a plain, stock Carter
or Kohler #26, #28 or #30 carburetor, there is really no need to remove the
main jet/nozzle. If the main jet/nozzle will not come out, don't worry about
it. All that has to be done is make sure that the bottom hole and side holes
in the main jet/nozzle are open. To check if the side holes are open, simply
spray WD-40 or aerosol carburetor cleaner through the small hole just beneath
the choke plate and observe if it comes out the main jet/nozzle inside the
throttle bore and float bowl area.
But if the main jet/nozzle is clogged, or if you're boring the venturi to
modify/rework the carburetor for high performance use, then the main jet/nozzle
must be removed. Before attempting to remove the main jet/nozzle, and if
the screwdriver slot is in good condition, then I found the best, easiest
and proven way to remove it is by the following process. This method works
great most of the time and the main jet/nozzle should loosen with no problems.
-
Remove the idle fuel mixture screw (so it won't get bent) and the high speed
needle adjuster so the tip won't get damaged when performing the below
Ê procedure.
-
Cradle the carburetor body upside down (float area facing up) lengthways
on the open jaws of a large bench vise.
-
Place a
hand impact tool or a quality-made flat blade screwdriver
with a good, square end wide enough to fit the entire width of the threaded
hole and thick enough for more contact with the slot in the main jet/nozzle.
-
Using a medium size hammer, strike the impact driver or screwdriver sharply
and
perpendicular
several times while at the same time rotating the main jet/nozzle
counterclockwise
by hand (with the screwdriver)
to loosen it. Do not use a wooden handle screwdriver because the handle could
break.
-
If the above È didn't work, then perform
the removal method below Ê.
If the above È method still didn't work,
then unfortunately, sometimes the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube) will get
stuck in place and the screwdriver slot will strip out. (I hate when this
happens.) Do not use an
Easy Out [Broken] Screw Extractor! With this tool, the
tapered shape will force the main jet/nozzle to swell or spread outward (cause
it to increase in diameter), and the deeper it goes, it could possibly crack
the aluminum tube, rendering the carburetor body useless. The
alternative method to remove the main jet/nozzle is to drill it out.
This process is performed as follows:
-
First, remove the high speed needle adjuster so it will not interfere with
the main jet/nozzle and get damaged.
-
Firmly clamp the carburetor body with the mounting and choke ends making
contact with the jaws of a bench vise with the float area facing up.
-
Drill
perpendicular
directly through the center of the main jet/nozzle with a 3/16" drill bit,
then carefully enlarge the hole with a 9/32" drill bit, and finally finish
drilling the hole with a 19/64" drill bit. Drill about 1" depth into the
main jet/nozzle.
-
Being very gentle, use a long, slender taper punch with a very pointed end
and a small hammer to collapse the thin threads of the main jet/nozzle.
NOTE: Be extremely careful when doing this! Because
the aluminum tube could crack, rendering the carburetor body totally
useless.
-
Pry out the remains of the main jet/nozzle with
needle-nose pliers. If you're not able to remove the entire
main jet/nozzle with needle-nose pliers, insert a 3/16" diameter steel rod
through the high speed needle adjuster hole and drive out the remains of
the main jet/nozzle. May have to hold the rod angled through the hole so
it can make contact with the end of the nozzle to drive it out.
-
With the main jet/nozzle removed,
use a 3/8-24 UNF plug hand tap to reshape and clean the threads for installation
of another main jet/nozzle. Install a new main jet/nozzle, or a good used
one from a junk carburetor. If the main jet/nozzle in a junk
carburetor is stuck, you can just split the threaded tube with either
a
flat cold chisel,
nut splitter or heat the tube with a
propane torch or an
oxy-acetylene torch until it splits apart. If attempting
to use the
flat cold chisel or
nut splitter, be careful not to damage the main jet/nozzle
itself!
How to Remove the Main Jet/Nozzle (Emulsion Tube) from a Carter Model
N #13, #16, #18, #20 or #22 Carburetor for Cleaning -

If the main jet/nozzle in a Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20
or #22 carburetor that's used on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161
or K181 needs to be removed for cleaning, being this type of nozzle is pressed
in the carburetor body. It removes and reinstalls a lot easier than the above
È main jet/nozzle. The removal and
installation process is as follows:
-
Remove the idle fuel mixture screw (so it won't get bent upon reinstallation
of the main jet/nozzle), high speed needle adjuster, float bowl and float.
-
Place the carburetor body right-side up (float area facing down) on the open
jaws of a bench vise. Position the carburetor body crossways on the vise
jaws so the float hinge loops won't break off. Do not tighten the vise jaws
against the carburetor body.
-
Using a 4" length x 11/64" (.172") diameter steel punch with a blunt end
and a small hammer, go through the high speed needle hole from the top side
of the carburetor, and drive the main jet/nozzle out from the bottom of
carburetor body.
-
To reinstall the main nozzle, place the carburetor body upside-down on the
open jaws of the vise and use a 1/4" diameter steel [roll pin] punch and
small hammer to drive it in until it bottoms out, and the end can be seen
in the venturi.
By the way - as far as I know, new main jet/nozzles for the Carter Model
N #13, #16, #18, #20 or #22 carburetor is not available from any source.
How to Remove a Broken-Off High Speed Air/Fuel Mixture Adjustment Needle
Screw from a Carter or Kohler Carburetor -
Sometimes when an engine sits with gas in the fuel system, the old, dried
gas residue will cause the high speed adjuster to become seized in the carburetor
body. And when attempting to remove it, the hollow tube could will break
off flush with the carburetor body. (Anything is possible with soft brass
and old, dried gas.) Anyway, The removal process of a broken-off main adjuster
is as follows:
-
Reach in through the choke end with
needle-nose pliers or small
long/needle-nose Vise-Grips locking pliers and break off
the needle part of the adjuster.
-
From the top of the carburetor body, drill out the threaded part of the adjuster
with a 3/16" drill bit, then work up to a 7/32" bit. Be sure to drill straight
down into the adjuster! For precision and full control of the drilling process,
this is best performed with the carburetor body clamped in a vice that's
fastened on the table of a milling machine. (The broken adjuster may screw
on out on its own when drilling it.)
-
If it don't screw out when drilling it, use a long, slender taper punch with
a very pointed end to collapse the remains of the adjuster so it can be removed
with the needle-nose pliers.
-
Use a 1/4-28 UNF plug hand tap to straighten and clean the threads for
installation of another adjuster.
If you don't feel comfortable removing the broken adjuster yourself, I charge
$30.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling, to remove a broken
adjuster.
Using Pump Gas with 10% Ethanol Versus 100% Race Gas in a Pulling Tractor
-
First of all, in an daily-driven vehicle, gasoline with no lead is hard on
soft cast iron exhaust valve seats. A soft cast iron valve seat is one that's
been machined directly into an engine block or cylinder head, and it have
not been heated-treated or no hardened insert is installed. In a daily-driven
automobile, the seat(s) will eventually deteriorate or the metal will literally
"wear away" because the absence of lead in gas to provide a protective coating
to prevent wear. And being most exhaust valves are made of extremely hardened
steel, they're not likely to wear at all. The intake valve and the cast iron
seat is not likely to wear as much, if any. And an engine block or cylinder
head with heat-treated seats or have hardened steel exhaust valve seat insert(s)
installed, they should not wear whatsoever.
Anyway, the 10% ethanol in pump gas (common everyday automotive fuel) lessens
exhaust emissions. Plus, the alcohol content boosts the octane, making it
somewhat of a high performance fuel. The lead content in race gas (VP Racing
Fuel, Turbo Blue, Sunoco, Torco, etc.) boosts the octane also, except it's
alcohol-free to pass the tech fuel test for tractor pulling. And the valve
seat(s) that's ground in a cast iron block in a pulling engine burning 87
octane unleaded regular gas should last a long time, no longer than the tractor
runs down the track (2-3 minutes per pull). They're not being driven a long
distance, like in a car or truck.
Click
or tap here to learn how to test for alcohol content in gasoline.
(Requires
Adobe
Acrobat Reader and use
Google
Chrome web browser for a faster download of websites with large
files.)
Older-formula mothballs have also been used by drag racers to enhance the
octane rating of fuel, by dissolving the mothballs in some of the fuel and
filtering out the remains with a filter paper.
Adding 2-cycle engine oil to gasoline will also boost the octane rating of
the gas because the oil slows down the combustion process. The length of
the combustion burning process depends on the amount of oil added to the
gas. The oil content will help lubricate the cylinder wall and valves.
Average Octane Rating of Various Fuels | Remember - Only high
compression engines benefit from the use of high octane fuel to increase
the power output. High octane fuels have no effect whatsoever and will not
increase the power output when used in a low compression engine.
-
Regular unleaded automotive gasoline (without 10% ethanol): 87
octane.
-
Premium unleaded automotive gasoline with 10% ethanol: 91-92 octane.
-
Leaded aviation gas/jet fuel: 100 octane.
-
E30: 98.6 octane.
-
E85: 105 octane.
-
Liquefied Petroleum (LP) or Propane: 100-110 octane.
|
-
Leaded race gas (VP Racing Fuel, Turbo Blue, Sunoco, Torco, etc.): approximately
110 octane.
-
100% methanol: 110 octane.
-
100% ethanol: 110-112 octane.
-
99% isopropyl alcohol (Main ingredient in rubbing alcohol and gas line
antifreeze to disperse water in fuel): 120 octane.
-
Denatured alcohol: 130 octane.
-
Hydrogen
fuel: approximately 130 octane.
-
Compressed Natural Gas (CNG): 130 octane.
|
By the way - I've never had problems with gas having 10% ethanol in any of
my small engines or automotive engines. I don't know why anyone else would.
Maybe that's because when one is having problems with a small engine not
running right, it's much easier to just blame it on "bad gas" than to look
for the real problem elsewhere with the engine. Remember - it takes three
things to make an internal combustion engine run: carburetion, compression
and ignition. A professional, thorough and energetic mechanic don't blame
the problem on one thing and overlook the other two. Unless of course, he's
lazy and looking to make some quick money by doing an easy fix.
NOTE: The main jet (and fuel inlet hole) should
not be enlarged for alcohol-free, high octane racing gas, such as VP Racing
fuel, Turbo Blue, Sunoco, Premium gas, or gas with 10% ethanol, because these
fuels require the same air/fuel mixture ratio as for ordinary, low octane
automotive gas. If the main jet hole (orifice) is intentionally enlarged
for gasoline-based fuels, the engine will run too rich on fuel, and there'll
be no way to lean it out.
Click
or tap here to learn how to test for alcohol content in gasoline.
(Requires
Adobe
Acrobat Reader and use
Google
Chrome web browser for a faster download of websites with large
files.)
 |
I remember when gasoline for various automotive engines were for the
following compression ratios: Anything up to 9.25:1, it was safe to use
Regular
gasoline (low octane); between 9.25:1-10.50:1 required
Premium
or
High Test
gasoline
(mid octane); and anything above 10.50:1 required
Ethyl
gasoline (high octane). Until the late 1960s, most Chevrolet small block
muscle car engines had a compression ratio as high as 11.25:1, and certain
Chevrolet 427 big block muscle car engines had a compression ratio as high
as 14:1! (That was the good ol' days!) I'd also like to share this old gas
station joke:
Car owner that just pulled up to the pump: "Fill 'er up... Ethyl!"
Gas
station attendant: "I'll fill up your car, but don't call A-1 Miller's
Ethel."
|
Using a Gravity Feed Fuel Flow System -
When burning gas only and if an engine is going to turn no faster than
4,000± RPM (governed limit; the factory setting of maximum RPM for virtually
all small gas engines, including all of Kohler engines is 3,600), then a
gravity
feed fuel system with the fuel tank positioned higher than the carburetor,
stock fuel fittings and fuel hose should work fine.
(Gravity
feed is defined as when the fuel is drawn by gravity; the lowest part
of the fuel tank is positioned higher than the carburetor, and there's no
fuel pump involved.) If the fuel tank sets higher than the carburetor, and
if a large inside diameter fuel hose and fittings are used, and if the float
level is set a little high, then a gravity feed fuel system should work great
for a stock engine turning no more than 4,000 RPM.
Information About the Crankcase
Vacuum-Operated/Pulse-Type Fuel Pump - NOTE: A
fuel pump is required ONLY when any part of the gas tank is
positioned lower than the carburetor. It pumps fuel up to the carburetor.
Otherwise, if the lowest part of the tank is positioned higher than the
carburetor, the engine can run on a gravity feed fuel system.
All vacuum-operated/pulse-type
fuel pumps operate off of the air pressure/vacuum inside an engine's crankcase.
The moving piston(s) inside the crankcase create a pulsating effect of air
ç back and forth
to activate the pump's diaphragm. And all
vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel pumps come with three fittings - one that
connects to the engine crankcase, and an IN and OUT fuel hose fittings. It
should read on the body of the pump which each fitting connects. But if it
doesn't, then the fitting coming from the center of the pump connects to
the crankcase port. And as for the other two fittings, one connects to the
fuel tank outlet and the other fitting connects to the carburetor inlet.
If the engine in a lawn and garden tractor, or
ATV/UTV sputters and/or dies after going over rough terrain,
this could be caused by a defective vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel pump.
Overtime, the fuel pump bodies become warped and oil in the crankcase is
preventing air from pulsating the diaphragm the way it should. If the engine
has a 12 volt electrical system with a charging system, it'll be better to
install a
12
volt low pressure electric fuel pump. These rarely give trouble.
To test a plastic body vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel pump, first check
that the fuel hose between the fuel tank and fuel pump is open and unobstructed,
or if it has dry-rot cracks, which can cause a vacuum leak. To test it,
disconnect the fuel hose from the fuel pump and wrap a shop/business towel
or clean rag around an air blower nozzle and then insert the nozzle with
the rag or towel in the fuel tank filler neck. Apply light air pressure in
the tank. If fuel comes out of the fuel hose, then it's open. After that,
reconnect the fuel hose to the fuel pump. To test the fuel pump itself, first
check the hose that connects the fuel pump to the engine crankcase to see
if it has a kink in it or if it has dry-rot cracks, which can also cause
a vacuum leak. If it's in good condition, then the final step is to disconnect
the fuel hose from the carburetor and with adequate amount of fuel in the
fuel tank, crank the engine and at the same time observe how much fuel is
being pumped out of the pump. If there seems to be adequate amount of fuel
coming from it, hold your finger over the end of the line and while still
cranking the engine, it should build up a small amount of pressure. If none
or very little fuel comes out of the pump, then it's bad and needs replacing.
When a vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel pump fails to pump fuel, in most cases,
the body of the fuel pump will become warped, causing a vacuum leak either
from within or from the outside, preventing the diaphragm from pulsating.
If the diaphragm is still flexible, chances are, the pump can be repaired
by resurfacing the body halves on a wide, flat
belt or disc sander to remove any warpage and restore flatness.
(Be sure to use eye protection!) If the body halves is warped, the sander
will make contact where the screw holes are, but not between the screw holes.
If the bottom of the fuel tank is lower than the carburetor, then the
engine definitely needs a fuel pump. If the engine didn't originally come
with a fuel pump, and has no provision for a mechanical fuel pump and/or
no 12 volt power output/supply to use a
12 volt low pressure
electric fuel pump, here's how to install a universal
vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel pump on virtually any small gas engine:
-
A vacuum hose fitting can be installed
in the valve (rocker arm) cover of an OHV engine, or fabricate a plate to
cover the existing mechanical fuel pump opening. Remove the rocker cover,
and drill a 21/32" hole in the desired location, and cut 1/8" NPT threads
in the drilled hole, and then install an 1/8-NPT x 1/4" barbed end [fuel]
hose fitting to serve as the vacuum-pulse-type port. Don't install the
fitting in the outer crankcase breather cover on a flathead engine. It doesn't
hold crankcase vacuum. The plate behind it with the reed valve does.
-
(Added 2/19/21) A vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel pump will work well with
the OEM Kohler styled fuel pump block-off cover plate (part # 240282-S) used
on certain Kohler K-series engines with a 21/32" port hole drilled and threads
cut with an 1/8" NPT hand tap, and an 1/8" NPT x 1/4" hose fitting installed.
-
Or a vacuum hose fitting can be installed directly in the engine block/crankcase.
To do this, locate a place on the crankcase that's easily accessible, drill
a 21/32" hole in the desired location, and cut 1/8" NPT threads in the drilled
hole. IMPORTANT - To prevent metal cuttings from
entering inside the engine block/crankcase, apply 150± PSI compressed
air through the oil fill opening or oil dipstick tube (tightly wrap a shop
towel or plastic around the air nozzle) to create air pressure inside the
crankcase so the metal cuttings will be blown outward and not enter inside
the crankcase while drilling the hole and cutting the threads. Be sure
to use eye protection, too!
-
Install the [fuel] hose fitting in the threaded hole with
plumber's thread sealing tape to guarantee a leak-proof
seal to prevent any oil seepage.
-
Connect a 1/4" I.D. neoprene rubber vacuum or fuel hose from the fitting
to the appropriate fitting on the vacuum fuel pump (this will activate the
pump).
-
Connect a 1/4" I.D. fuel hose from the fuel tank to the fitting on the pump
marked IN ç.
-
Connect a 1/4" I.D. fuel hose from the carburetor to the fitting on the pump
marked OUT è.
-
Be sure to install clamps on the hoses/fittings to prevent a vacuum and/or
fuel leak.
-
Mount the fuel pump and position the hoses securely away from any exhaust
heat. NOTE: It doesn't matter if a small amount of crankcase oil gets
in the vacuum-pulse hose. This is normal and the fuel pump will still work
just fine being air, along with the oil, will be pulsating back and forth
, which activates the diaphragm in the pump
that is created by the movement of the engine piston(s).
[Return To Previous Paragraph, Section
or Website]
What Exactly Is "Vapor Lock"?
Vapor lock only happens with certain older carbureted cars and trucks with
a mechanical fuel pump that's fastened to the engine block. Vapor lock occurs
when the [metal] gas line is too close to the hot exhaust, and when the vehicle
is in slow traffic, the fuel is moving very slow in the line. Due to extreme
heat from the exhaust and on a hot day, and the fan blade not blowing that
much air past the exhaust, sometimes the heat will cause the gas to boil,
forming air bubbles or air pockets, and the fuel vaporizes, and then the
fuel pump can't pump vaporized fuel (air). So as soon as the carburetor runs
out of fuel, the engine stalls. The fuel pump will "lock" with vapors trapped
inside it. When the vehicle cools, incoming gas will force the air out of
the fuel pump and through the carburetor, allowing the fuel to return to
the pump, and then the engine will start and run again. This don't happen
nowadays with automobiles having fuel injection because the entire fuel hose
is pressurized.
But on lawn- or garden-tractors, the fuel hose is located nowhere near the
hot exhaust. What is really happening when the engine stalls, is either the
fuel system is dirty, the ignition coil is bad, or there's
insufficient valve to lifter
clearance.
Using a Mechanical Fuel Pump - FYI: A fuel
pump is required ONLY when the lowest part of the fuel tank is positioned
lower than the carburetor. It pumps fuel up to the carburetor. Otherwise,
if the lowest part of the tank is positioned higher than the carburetor,
the engine can run on a gravity feed fuel system.

Mechanical plastic and metal body fuel pumps are very durable
and they work pretty well, for both lawn machines and stock competition pulling
with gas. The diaphragm or gaskets rarely go bad in the mechanical fuel pump.
It's usually one or both of the poppet valves that gets damaged. They can
become dislodged, or rusted or corroded from long term water contamination.
If the poppet valves are in good condition and snug in their counterbores,
but if the pump doesn't pump fuel, then in most cases, the fuel pump body
halves become warped, creating a vacuum leak at the diaphragm. The pump body
halves can be resurfaced on a wide, flat
belt- or disc-sander to remove warpage and restore flatness,
and then after reassembly, the pump should work as good as new. (I use
the side of the abrasive cutting wheel on my
14" electric chop saw with a metal cut-off wheel. Works
great! Be sure to use eye protection, too!) After resurfacing, use a
deburring tool to get rid of any melted plastic burrs and/or
sharp edges, and thoroughly clean all parts with 150± PSI compressed
air before reassembly! If this doesn't fix the problem, then perhaps a new
or used reconditioned pump will need to be acquired.
By the way - most [new design]
aftermarket small engine plastic-body mechanical fuel pumps rarely warp between
the screws (that fasten the two halves together) because the material is
much thicker in this area. Only the older OEM Kohler plastic- and metal-body
mechanical fuel pumps warp between the screws because the material is the
same thickness where the fastening screws are.
To test the fuel pump for fuel flow off the engine, submerge the inlet port
in a container of clean (filtered) parts cleaner or paint thinner and then
work the lever quickly by hand. The solvent should squirt forcibly out the
outlet port. If the pump doesn't start pumping right away, submerge the entire
fuel pump in the solvent and work the lever to prime it and remove the air
internally. After checking to see how well it works, to test the PSI, a
fuel pressure gauge that registers up to 15 PSI
can be connected to the outlet port. The pressure should be 1-½ to 2
PSI. To increase the pressure to about 2-½ PSI (maximum), disassemble
the pump and physically stretch the diaphragm pressure spring until it's
about 3/4" longer than original length. To increase the volume (more fuel
flow), the stroke of the fuel pump lobe on the camshaft would need to be
lengthened approximately 1/8" by welding it up on the high side and reground
deeper on the low side. Or better yet, use a
12
volt low pressure electric fuel pump.
The only problem when using a gasket to fasten the fuel pump to the block
is, being the mounting flange is so thin, it will warp over time, causing
an oil leak. (This happens to every pump I've seen.) To fix this, and to
[possibly] prevent an oil leak in the future, completely disassemble the
pump, remove the lever and arm (be careful not to lose the spring) and use
a wide, flat
belt- or disc-sander to resurface the mounting flange on
a wide, flat
belt- or disc-sander to remove warpage and restore flatness.
The trick to reinstalling the spring is, reinstall the arm, lever and support
pin in the pump body first, then install the spring with a small, flat
screwdriver. (The pumps with the manual fuel primer lever is harder to
reassemble.) To keep the flange from warping again, fasten it directly to
the block using only
clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant and use no gasket,
or use a very thin gasket. Finally, install a flat washer (and of course,
a split lock washer) under each mounting screw head to distribute even pressure
on the flange and to prevent the screws from loosening. By the way - I've
always preferred to use
clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant for three reasons:
Gaskets don't always seal the irregularities and imperfections between mating
metals, especially thin metal covers; being it's an adhesive, it bonds parts
together, forming a leak-proof seal; and being it's clear, it makes for a
clean and professional-looking repair job. When applied sparingly, it can't
be easily seen or noticed between the parts.
The purpose of Kohler's older
and now obsolete mechanical fuel pump with the hand lever (thin metal
piece that hangs down under the pump body) is for when the engine runs out
of fuel, after refilling the fuel tank, it takes less time to manually prime
the fuel pump with the lever by hand to refill the carburetor than it would
to crank the engine so the fuel pump can draw fuel from the tank and deliver
it to the carburetor. This was a nice feature, especially on engines with
a rope or rewind starter! It also saved wear and tear on the starter motor
from cranking for a long time, which could burn up the starter or run down
the battery.
FYI - All of Kohler's K241-K341
and the K361 engines come with a lobe on the cam to activate the mechanical
fuel pump. The fuel pump installs with the lever positioned upwards. And
if there's no provision for mounting a mechanical fuel pump, a 3/4" center
hole and two small threaded bolt holes will need to be drilled, and the mounting
holes tapped for 1/4-20 UNC threads. Use a fuel pump mounting gasket as a
templet.
Troubleshooting a Faulty Vacuum-Operated/Pulse-Type and Mechanical Fuel
Pump -
If an engine sits for about one week or longer, if the fuel in the carburetor
evaporates and it's hard to start, or fuel must be squirted into the carburetor
to get the engine started, then this means that the vacuum-operated/pulse-type
fuel pump mechanical fuel pump may be bad. The inlet valve in the pump is
leaking, which is allowing the fuel to drain back into the fuel tank with
the engine off. As the pump tries to syphon fuel from the tank to refill
the carburetor, it's unable because the inlet valve is bad. Solution: a new
fuel pump will need to be installed. When a vacuum or mechanical fuel pump
quits working, below Ê are the causes:
-
Gasket/diaphragm mating surfaces on pump halves warped, causing vacuum leak
and/or external fuel leak.
-
Solution: Disassemble fuel pump, resurface both halves on a wide, flat
belt- or disc-sander to remove warpage and restore flatness.
Deburr any rough edges afterwards.
-
Poppet valve dislodged from its cavity inside pump cover. (This happens
often.)
-
Solution: Disassemble fuel pump, reinstall valve in its recess and carefully
peen the metal or plastic around it. If the valve won't stay in place, the
only option is to acquire another good fuel pump cover, or an entire fuel
pump. By the way - the halves of the plastic and metal body fuel pumps cannot
be interchanged.
-
Corrosion damage due to contamination with water.
-
Solution: If it can't be cleaned internally, acquire another good fuel
pump.
|
-
Deteriorated diaphragm. (This is rare, and there'll be presence of gas
in the crankcase oil.)
-
Solution: Being no rebuild kits are available, the only option is to acquire
a good diaphragm from a damaged fuel pump, or acquire an entire good fuel
pump. By the way - the diaphragm in the plastic and metal body fuel
pumps cannot be interchanged. And the rebuild kit for a Kohler mechanical
fuel pump is no longer available from Kohler. And if you do find a kit online,
it's like $90.00. A new high quality aftermarket mechanical fuel pump is
about half that much!
-
Cracked (split) threads in tapered threaded inlet or outlet ports. (This
happens when the tapered thread fuel fittings are over-tightened.)
-
Solution: Acquire another good fuel pump cover, or an entire fuel pump.
By the way - the cover of the plastic and metal body fuel pumps cannot be
interchanged.
|
When to Use a 12 Volt Low Pressure Electric Fuel Pump -
NOTE: A fuel pump is required ONLY when any part of
the gas tank is positioned lower than the carburetor. It pumps fuel up to
the carburetor. Otherwise, if the lowest part of the tank is positioned higher
than the carburetor, the engine can run on a gravity feed fuel system.
Most
12 volt low pressure electric fuel pumps
are compact, vibration-proof (has solid state dependability), self-priming,
easy to install and connect the wiring. They work with gasoline-based fuels,
won't flood the carburetor, draw very little amperage from the battery, and
they cost less than most OEM 12 volt low pressure
electric fuel pumps. These works great for garden tractors having either
a single- or two-cylinder engine.

An
electric fuel pump that's designed for an
import car/truck produce more flow than any of Kohler's mechanical fuel pumps,
and in most of them don't produce not enough pressure to flood the carburetor.
With some high pressure electric fuel pumps however, an adjustable fuel pressure
regulator with a fuel pressure gauge may need to
be used between the fuel regulator and carburetor. To begin with, set the
regulator at about 2-1/2 p.s.i. Make the final adjustment on the fuel pressure
at high RPM or wide open throttle, hooked to the sled, while going down the
track. For a stock garden pulling tractor with a 4,000 RPM limit, due to
the minimal engine vibration, a dry fuel pressure gauge can be used. But
for a garden pulling tractor that operate at high RPM or wide open throttle,
due to increased engine vibration, use a liquid filled fuel pressure gauge
to prevent possible damage to the gauge.
Another good thing about a 12 volt low pressure
electric fuel pump verses a mechanical pump (if the mechanical pump doesn't
have a primer lever, which must be primed manually) is if an engine runs
out of fuel, the engine will not have to be cranked for a long time to get
the fuel pumped up to the carburetor, which can be hard on an electric starter
motor.
A new electric fuel pump should come with detailed and illustrated installation
instructions. If there's no instructions, on a tractor or small engine equipment
with battery-powered ignition, connect the
RED wire from the pump to the wire that
connects to the ignition coil positive (+) terminal (which is connected to
the battery positive (+) post through the ignition key switch), and connect
the BLACK wire from the pump to the engine sheet metal or chassis
ground (which is connected directly to the battery negative () post).
On a tractor or small engine equipment with magneto or solid state ignition,
but with electric start, use an OFF/ON toggle switch connected to the battery
positive (+) post to power the fuel pump. In most cases, do not use the
[self-grounding magneto] ignition key switch.
Advertisement:
If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services
listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises
| 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. When
you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with
the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to the
public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate our business to other property with a bigger and better
shop so we can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
|
Vacuum-Operated/Pulse-Type
Plastic Body Fuel Pump. Operates off internal engine crankcase pulsating
pressure. Very durable. Fits many makes and models of various small engines.
Universal usage. Can be used as a replacement for a faulty high-dollar mechanical
fuel pump. Use for general lawn and garden work or for a 4,000± RPM
stock pulling engine. Install in-line fuel filter before pump so flapper
valves in pump will last longer.
-
New high quality aftermarket. Replaces Briggs & Stratton part # 808656
and Kohler part # 24 393 16-S. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 24 393 16-S. $56.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Vacuum-Operated/Pulse-Type
All-Metal Body Fuel Pump. Operates off internal engine crankcase pulsating
pressure. Fits many makes and models of various small engines. Universal
usage. Can be used as a replacement for a faulty high-dollar mechanical fuel
pump. Use for general lawn and garden work or for a 4,000± RPM stock
pulling engine. Install in-line fuel filter before pump so flapper valves
in pump will last longer.
-
New high quality aftermarket. Our part # 10876. Replaces Briggs & Stratton
part # 808656 and Kohler part # 24 393 16-S. $45.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 15 393 01-S. $55.75 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Mechanical Fuel Pump Opening Cover Plates with 1/8" NPT Threaded
Port with Choice of Straight, 45º Angled or 90º Angled Hose
Fitting. Replace faulty mechanical fuel pump with a
vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel pump. Each plate fits virtually all models
of Kohler engines, and certain older Tecumseh engines. Can be installed with
clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant instead of a gasket.
Use
plumber's thread sealing tape on fitting to guarantee a
leak-proof seal. Each plate made of 1/8" thick mild steel. An ingenious
and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat
products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.)
   
-
Aftermarket Rectangular-Shaped Cover Plate with 1/8" NPT Threaded Port. When
appearance isn't important. A-1 Miller custom-made part. Replaces plate
w/threaded hole Kohler part # 277646.
-
Without hose fitting. Customer supplies own fitting. $10.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
With choice of straight, 45º angled or 90º angled hose fitting.
$13.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler Styled Cover Plate with 1/8" NPT Threaded Port. When appearance
matters. A-1 Miller modified part. Plate w/threaded hole discontinued
from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # 277646.
-
Without hose fitting. Customer supplies own fitting. $14.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
With choice of straight, 45º angled or 90º angled hose fitting.
$17.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
FYI - A vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel pump will work well with the OEM
Kohler styled fuel pump block-off cover plate (part # 240282-S; listed below)
used on certain Kohler K-series engines with a 21/32" port hole drilled and
threads cut with an 1/8" NPT hand tap, and an 1/8" NPT x 1/4" hose fitting
installed. |
Cover Plates for
Mechanical Fuel Pump Opening. Replace faulty mechanical fuel pump with gravity
feed fuel system or
12 volt low pressure
electric fuel pump. Fits most Kohler and older Tecumseh engines.
Can be installed with
clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant instead of a gasket.
Each made of 1/8" thick mild steel.
-
Aftermarket Rectangular-Shaped Fuel Pump Block-Off Cover Plate. When
appearance isn't important. A-1 Miller part. Replaces Kohler part # 240282-S
and Tecumseh part # 31660. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian
Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I
do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.)
$5.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
OEM Kohler Styled Cover Plate. When appearance matters. OEM Kohler
part # 240282-S; replaces Tecumseh part # 31660 (installed on certain Tecumseh
engine models H40 and H50). $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Fuel Pump Mounting
Gaskets. Fits all models of Kohler and older Tecumseh engines with a
camshaft-operated mechanical fuel pump. Approximately 1/32" thick.
-
High quality aftermarket. $1.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 25 041 10-S. $2.10 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Fuel Pump Diaphragm
and Pressure Spring Repair Kit. Fits old-style plastic- and metal-body mechanical
fuel pumps with thread-in hose fittings used on Kohler, Tecumseh, Onan, etc.
Will not fit new-style fuel pumps with press-in fittings. IMPORTANT: To
prevent a vacuum leak and for proper operation of the fuel pump, resurface
both halves of pump bodies on a large, flat sanding disc or wide, flat belt
sander to remove any warpage and restore flatness. Discontinued from
Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # 230675-S.
-
$10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
New mechanical
fuel pumps for Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8.
New-style plastic body fuel pumps to resist corrosion from water contamination.
Use the supplied snap ring to press the tabs in the fittings to install and
rotate them. Install in-line fuel filter before inlet on pump so pump will
last longer. New pumps for thread-in fittings and/or with primer lever
no longer available. L FYI - The alternative
to replacing a [high dollar or obsolete] OEM Kohler mechanical fuel pump
on a small engine is to use a modern crankcase vacuum-operated/pulse-type
fuel pump or a 12 volt low pressure electric
fuel pump. Click or
tap here to learn how this is done.
-
A-1 Miller's Repair Service - Repair YOUR OEM Kohler mechanical fuel pump.
$20.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling. No charge if
not repairable.
-
New high quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 41 559 05-S.
$40.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
New OEM Kohler part # 41 559 05-S. $106.50 each, plus shipping &
handling.
|
New mechanical
fuel pumps for Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K330/K331, K321/M14,
K341/M16, K361 and K660/K662. New-style plastic body fuel pumps to resist
corrosion from water contamination. Use the supplied snap ring to press the
tabs in the fittings to install and rotate them. Install in-line fuel filter
before inlet on pump so pump will last longer. Kohler part #'s 47 559 10-S,
47 559 11-S (most commonly used). FYI - The alternative to replacing a
[high dollar or obsolete] OEM mechanical fuel pump on a small engine is to
use a modern crankcase vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel pump or a
12 volt low pressure
electric fuel pump. Click or tap here to
learn how this is done.
-
A-1 Miller's Repair Service - Repair YOUR OEM Kohler mechanical fuel pump.
$20.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling. No charge if
not repairable.
-
Rebuilt OEM Kohler mechanical fuel pump. $30.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
New high quality aftermarket. Reversible ports. (Remove top half, rotate
180º, reinstall.) Replaces Kohler part # 47 559 10-S and 47 559 11-S.
$34.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
New OEM Kohler part # 47 559 10-S. Same as below except w/left port fuel
inlet.
$117.85 each,
plus shipping & handling.
-
New OEM Kohler part # 47 559 11-S. Same as above except w/right port fuel
inlet.
$156.60 each,
plus shipping & handling.
|
New mechanical
fuel pumps for Kohler engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series
II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. New-style plastic body fuel pumps to resist
corrosion from water contamination. Use the supplied snap ring to press the
tabs in the fittings to install and rotate them. Install in-line fuel filter
before inlet on pump so pump will last longer. New pumps for thread-in
fittings no longer available. L FYI
- The alternative to replacing a [high dollar or obsolete] OEM mechanical
fuel pump on a small engine is to use a modern crankcase
vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel pump or a
12 volt low pressure
electric fuel pump. Click or tap here to
learn how this is done.
-
A-1 Miller's Repair Service - Repair YOUR OEM Kohler mechanical fuel pump.
$20.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling. No charge if
not repairable.
-
New high quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 52 559 03-S.
$35.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
New OEM Kohler part # 52 559 03-S. $89.35 each, plus shipping &
handling.
|
New mechanical
fuel pumps for Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582 opposed (flathead)
twin cylinder engines. New-style plastic body fuel pumps to resist corrosion
from water contamination. Use the supplied snap ring to press the tabs in
the fittings to install and rotate them. New pumps for thread-in fittings
no longer available. Install in-line fuel filter before inlet on pump
so pump will last longer. L FYI - The
alternative to replacing a [high dollar or obsolete] OEM mechanical fuel
pump on a small engine is to use a modern vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel
pump or a 12 volt
low pressure electric fuel pump. Click or
tap here to learn how this is done.
-
A-1 Miller's Repair Service - Repair YOUR OEM Kohler mechanical fuel pump.
$20.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling. No charge if
not repairable.
-
New high quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 48 559 05-S.
$50.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
New OEM Kohler part # 48 559 05-S. $145.30 each, plus shipping &
handling.
|
High
Quality Chrome Body Mechanical Fuel Pressure Gauges. Use to monitor fuel
pump pressure to carburetor. Can be used on general lawn and garden equipment,
various small engine equipment, recreational vehicles, garden pulling tractors
or mini rod pulling tractors. Can be used with a vacuum-operated/pulse-type
fuel pump, mechanical fuel pump or electric fuel pump. Each registers 0-15
PSI, 1-1/2" diameter, with an 1/8" NPT male fitting on back of gauge. Fabricate
a sturdy angled bracket to mount gauge on side of pedestal assembly or on
frame of tractor, after electric fuel pump. IMPORTANT: Use
plumber's thread sealing tape on all threaded fuel fittings
for a leak-proof seal.
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Dry Fuel Pressure Gauge. Suitable for low RPM engines. $16.00 each,
plus shipping & handling.
-
Liquid Filled Fuel Pressure Gauge. Suitable for high RPM engines.
$25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
[Return To Previous Paragraph or
Section]
|
  Low
Pressure 12 Volt Fuel Pump Installation
Kits. Low pressure, small and compact. Convert from gravity feed, or
replace faulty vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel pump or mechanical fuel pump
(with a deteriorated diaphragm that can seep gas into the crankcase, diluting
the oil, which can could severe internal engine damage), or upgrade to one
of these pumps for more fuel delivery. Each produces 2.5-4.5 PSI @ 30 gph,
and is non-adjustable. Fuel regulator is not required, but may require one
under certain conditions. Use for general lawn and garden work, or for garden
tractor pulling. Will work for most single- and twin-cylinder gas engines
such as Kohler, Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh, Wisconsin, etc., on virtually
all models of Cub Cadet, John Deere, Wheel Horse, Sears Suburban, Massey
Ferguson, and just about any lawn & garden equipment with a 12 volt
electrical system. These electric fuel pump kits come with fittings that
accepts 1/4" I.D. fuel hose, the same size that's on most Kohler and other
makes and models of engines. If it's a Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) engine, the
fitting in the carburetor would need to be changed to 1/4". IMPORTANT: Use
plumber's thread sealing tape on fuel fittings to guarantee
a leak-proof seal. If the engine has magneto or solid state ignition, but
no charging system, and only a 12 volt battery is used to power the fuel
pump, the battery will need to be recharged with portable battery charger
every now and then so the fuel pump will work at peak efficiency. Alcohol
resistant and very durable. For stock engines or engines running at high
RPM or wide open throttle. Suitable for small gas engines up to 4 cylinder
carbureted engines. Instant fuel prime to the carburetor as soon as pump
is powered up. Ideal when equipment
runs out of gas and no need to crank engine for a long time to refill carburetor
to restart engine. Saves on starter motor wear. Each operates on 12 volts
DC. Rather than a motor or diaphragm, these solenoid pumps use a piston actuated
by an electromagnetic coil to generate fuel pressure and flow. By using only
short pulses of electricity, this pump is very efficient. IMPORTANT: For
long term
storage, drain and clear out all fuel, leave fuel hoses disconnected
so entire fuel system can "air dry," and apply WD-40 or light oil in the
fuel pump to prevent oxidation, which could cause the moving parts to "freeze
up" or stick. Wire Connections: The BLACK wire connects to negative
() ground (tractor chassis or frame), and the
RED wire connects to the positive (+)
battery post or a terminal on the ignition switch that connects to the positive
(+) battery post. If the wires are connected in reverse, the fuel pump will
pump fuel in the opposite direction. It will not harm the pump. Install in-line
fuel filter before inlet on pump so pump will last longer.
NOTE: Electric fuel pumps listed here come with a one year warranty. Install
the inline fuel filter before the pump (inlet port) to prevent any debris
from becoming lodged in the pumping mechanism. If there is debris lodged,
it may be removed with 150 PSI compressed air when applied in the reverse
direction of fuel flow. If the pump still won't work right after clearing
it out, please remove the fittings, return the pump and I'll send you another
new fuel pump without the hardware and fittings.
[Return To Previous Paragraph or
Section]
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Round Body 12 Volt Low Pressure Electric Fuel Pump Installation Kit. Includes:
Fuel pump, mounting bracket w/bolt/nut, two straight 1/4" barbed hose fittings,
4 hose spring-type clamps, 1/4" I.D. x 12" length reinforced fuel hose and
fuel filter. High quality aftermarket. $32.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
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Square Body 12 Volt Low Pressure Electric Fuel Pump Installation Kit. Includes:
Fuel pump, two straight 1/4" barbed hose fittings, 4 hose spring-type clamps,
1/4" I.D. x 12" length reinforced fuel hose and fuel filter. High quality
aftermarket. $32.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Square Body 12 Volt Low Pressure Electric Fuel Pump Installation Kit. Pressure:
1/2 - 2 lb. PSI. Suitable for aluminum block engines. Includes: Fuel pump,
two 1/4" barbed hose fittings, reinforced fuel hose, 4 hose spring-type clamps,
and fuel filter. OEM Kohler part # 25 559 01-S. $188.85 each, plus
shipping & handling.
-
Square Body 12 Volt Low Pressure Electric Fuel Pump Installation Kit. Pressure:
2 - 3-1/2 lb. PSI. Suitable for cast iron block engines. Includes: Fuel pump,
two 1/4" barbed hose fittings, reinforced fuel hose, 4 hose spring-type clamps,
and fuel filter. OEM Kohler part # 41 393 45-S. $358.05 each, plus
shipping & handling.
|
How to Prepare an Electric Fuel Pump for Wintertime or Long Term Storage
-
If the equipment is equipped with an electric pump, for winter-time or long
term storage, drain and clear out all fuel, leave the fuel hoses disconnected
so the entire fuel system can "air dry," and apply WD-40 or light oil, such
as 3-IN-ONE, power steering fluid or equivalent, in the fuel pump to prevent
oxidation drying out of the moving parts, which could cause the parts to
"freeze up" or stick. Then store the tractor or small engine equipment in
a cool, dry environment.
Click or tap here for
more information of long term storage of an engine.
Advertisement:
If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed
in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501
W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. When
you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with
the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to the
public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate our business to other property with a bigger and better
shop so we can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
|
FYI: A-1 Miller's can professionally rebuild older vintage and antique
carburetors virtually of any kind as well as newer ones, as long as replacement
parts are available. I also have the capability to fabricate new throttle
and choke shafts.
Rebuild and/or Repair YOUR
K241-K361 Carter or Kohler or Walbro Carburetor. Basic rebuild with no "high
performance" modifications whatsoever. Work includes: Complete disassembly
of carburetor, thorough cleaning of carburetor and all parts, inspect all
parts for wear, install overhaul/rebuild kit and throttle shaft bushing,
if needed. This includes the high quality parts and professional services
it may need that's listed below Ê. Anything
else it may need will be an additional charge. FYI - Many of my customers
send me their carburetor for rebuilding, but sometimes I can't find anything
wrong it. So I'd call my customer and ask how their engine acted or ran.
After hearing their story, I tell them it sounds like their engine either
needs a professional valve job performed or it needs a professional tune-up.
And lo and behold! Many of them either adjusted the valve clearances or had
a professional valve job performed, or performed a professional tune-up,
and said that their engine ran like new again. So remember, sometimes a
carburetor problem may be the valves or the ignition system instead.
Please contact A-1 Miller's for FREE professional technical
support if you have any concerns with how poorly your engine runs.
After I rebuild a carburetor, as long as everything else on the engine is
in good condition, the carburetor will, without a doubt, perform flawlessly.
When we rebuild a carburetor, it is completely disassembled, including the
choke plate and/or throttle shaft, only if the plate is bent or the shaft
is worn. The mounting flanges are resurfaced on a flat
belt- or disc-sander to remove any roughness/warpage and
restore flatness to prevent a vacuum leak, then all the parts are placed
in an
ultrasonic
cleaning machine for about 5 minutes. Then we use 150 psi compressed
air to blow-dry all the parts, and I inspect each part for wear or any previous
damage and repair or replace the damaged part(s) and replace the worn parts
with new parts. If the throttle shaft is worn loose, a new bushing and
foam rubber seal (to prevent dust and dirt from entering
past bushing/throttle shaft), and a new overhaul/rebuild kit are installed.
The lower hole in the high speed needle adjuster is also enlarged so engine
will start quicker and idle better. And any stripped-out threads in the
carburetor body for the air cleaner/filter mounting base are repaired, if
possible. And the only way to remove all the paint from the carburetor body
is to sandblast it. But sandblasting can allow tiny particles of sand to
become embedded in the fuel passageways, which could come loose and cause
problems later. Therefore, we do not sandblast carburetors. An original,
ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise
this repair service.
Additional Parts and Professional Repair Service Your Carburetor May Need
Listed Below Ê
-
Drill out broken choke and/or throttle shaft screws and install choke and/or
throttle shaft in carburetor body with new screws and split lock washers.
$3.00 per broken screw, includes new replacement screw and split lock
washer.
-
If needed, for Carter, Kohler or Walbro carburetors with a vertical throttle
shaft: Install new bronze bushing for throttle shaft and reinstall original
throttle shaft with new screws/lockwashers. $25.00 extra for parts
and labor.
-
If needed, for Carter, Kohler or Walbro carburetors with a vertical throttle
shaft: Bore-out upper throttle shaft hole, install new sleeve bronze bushing
and reinstall original throttle shaft with new screws/lockwashers. $35.00
extra for parts and labor. An innovative concept by Brian Miller,
because nobody else advertise this type of service.
-
If needed, repair stripped-out OEM 10-32 UNF air cleaner/filter assembly
mounting threaded hole(s) with bigger 12-24 UNC or 1/4-20 UNC screws.
$6.00 for all 3 screw holes. NOTE - Holes in air cleaner mounting
base will need to be drilled out to 7/32" or 17/64" and gasket holes enlarged
by customer for the bigger screws.
-
Idle speed and air/fuel mixture bore will be preset on the carburetor just
to get the engine running, but due to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric
pressure and air temperature where the engine will be used, final idle and
high speed air/fuel mixture bore will need to be made by the customer so
the engine will run smooth.
IMPORTANT: When sending your carburetor to me, please package it
and all parts to it securely in one sealed zip-lock sandwich bag to prevent
loss of parts in shipping, and to prevent the odor of gas from escaping the
package. If the odor of gas is still present from outside the package, apply
air freshener on the carburetor to disguise the smell of
gas. Because the US Postal Service or other delivery services will not deliver
any packages that smell like gas. Also, be sure to include a note in the
package with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone number
(in case we have any questions), a description of what you want done, how
the engine will be used and any other parts you may need. we will contact
you when the carburetor (and list of parts) are ready to be sent back to
you. |
High Quality Aftermarket
Chinese-Made Walbro-Replicated LME Carburetor. Fits Tecumseh engine models
HH100 and HH120. The OEM Walbro LME carburetor is no longer available new.
-
$40.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Professionally Rebuilt
Genuine OEM Carter Model N #13 or #16 Carburetor. Very rare. The throttle
bore measures .810" diameter and the venturi is .542" diameter. This particular
carburetor is designed specifically for Kohler engine models K90/K91. NOTE:
Due to the velocity of air the engine draws through the carburetor and the
size of the venturi, if the wrong size carburetor/venturi is used on a wrong
size engine, the engine may not run correctly and/or not produce full power
at top governed speed. These are plain, stock carburetors that's been
completely disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt with a new overhaul
kit, new throttle shaft and other new parts installed if required. No performance
modifications are made to these carburetors whatsoever. Use
plumber's thread sealing tape on fuel fitting to guarantee
a leak-proof seal. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be
initially set on the carburetor just to get the engine running, but due to
the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where
the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments
will need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth. OEM Carter
part #'s A-220100, A-230246, A-230444, E-220517, F-220762, G-220517, 220451,
220574, 220745, 220777, 230501. (Not all numbers stamped on Carter carburetors
are listed with Kohler.) OEM Kohler part # 46 053 03. This carburetor is
discontinued from Kohler. L All carburetors
that we repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects
and come with a limited one year workmanship warranty from date of purchase.
Warranty includes FREE professional technical support.
-
$250.00 each with a rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in (certain
valuable parts can be reused off of it on a good carburetor body), plus shipping
& handling. (When available.) IMPORTANT: When sending your
carburetor to me, please package it and all parts to it securely in one sealed
zip-lock sandwich bag to prevent loss of parts in shipping, and to prevent
the odor of gas from escaping the package. If the odor of gas is still present
from outside the package, apply
air freshener on the carburetor to disguise the smell of
gas. Because the US Postal Service or other delivery services will not deliver
any packages that smell like gas. Also, be sure to include a note in the
package with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone number
(in case I have any questions), a description of what you want done, how
the engine will be used and any other parts you may need. I will contact
you when the carburetor (and list of parts) are ready to be sent back to
you.
-
$300.00 each outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling.
(When available.) NOTE: Please don't discard your Carter or Kohler
carburetor core. If not rebuildable, certain valuable parts can be reused
on a good core. (The OEM (US) manufacturers are phasing out many parts for
flathead engines due to EPA smog emissions. But some parts may still be available
in aftermarket.)
Professionally Rebuilt Genuine
OEM Carter Model N #18 Carburetor. Somewhat rare. The throttle bore measures
.823" diameter and the venturi is .550" diameter. This particular carburetor
is designed specifically for Kohler engine model K141. NOTE: Due to the
velocity of air the engine draws through the carburetor and the size of the
venturi, if the wrong size carburetor/venturi is used on a wrong size engine,
the engine may not run correctly and/or not produce full power at top governed
speed. These are plain, stock carburetors that's been completely
disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt with a new overhaul kit, new
throttle shaft and other new parts installed if required. No performance
modifications are made to these carburetors whatsoever. Use
plumber's thread sealing tape on fuel fitting to guarantee
a leak-proof seal. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be
initially set on the carburetor to get the engine running, but due to the
altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where
the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments
will need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth. OEM Carter
part #'s A-231966, B-231469, G-220517. (Not all numbers stamped on Carter
carburetors are listed with Kohler.) OEM Kohler part #'s 41 053 06, 41 053
13. This carburetor is discontinued from Kohler.
L All carburetors that we repair, rebuild,
modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with a limited
one year workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE
professional technical support.
-
$155.00 each with a rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in (certain
valuable parts can be reused off of it on a good carburetor body), plus shipping
& handling. (When available.) IMPORTANT: When sending your
carburetor to me, please package it and all parts to it securely in one sealed
zip-lock sandwich bag to prevent loss of parts in shipping, and to prevent
the odor of gas from escaping the package. If the odor of gas is still present
from outside the package, apply
air freshener on the carburetor to disguise the smell of
gas. Because the US Postal Service or other delivery services will not deliver
any packages that smell like gas. Also, be sure to include a note in the
package with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone number
(in case I have any questions), a description of what you want done, how
the engine will be used and any other parts you may need. I will contact
you when the carburetor (and list of parts) are ready to be sent back to
you.
-
$165.00 each outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling.
(When available.) NOTE: Please don't discard your Carter or Kohler
carburetor core. If not rebuildable, certain valuable parts can be reused
on a good core. (The OEM (US) manufacturers are phasing out many parts for
flathead engines due to EPA smog emissions. But some parts may still be available
in aftermarket.)
Professionally Rebuilt Genuine
OEM Carter Model N #20 Carburetor. Somewhat rare. The throttle bore measures
.823" diameter and the venturi is .612" diameter. This particular carburetor
is designed specifically for Kohler engine models K160/K161. NOTE: Due
to the velocity of air the engine draws through the carburetor and the size
of the venturi, if the wrong size carburetor/venturi is used on a wrong size
engine, the engine may not run correctly and/or not produce full power at
top governed speed. These are plain, stock carburetors that's been completely
disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt with a new overhaul kit, new
throttle shaft and other new parts installed if required. No performance
modifications are made to these carburetors whatsoever. Use
plumber's thread sealing tape on fuel fitting to guarantee
a leak-proof seal. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be
initially set on the carburetor to get the engine running, but due to the
altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where
the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments
will need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth. OEM Carter
part #'s A-230798, B-231231, B-231450, B-231469, C-231738, E-231480, E-231488,
E-231489, F-230350, F-230501, G-220517, G-230500. (Not all numbers stamped
on Carter carburetors are listed with Kohler.) OEM Kohler part #'s 41 053
06, 41 053 14. This carburetor is discontinued from Kohler.
L All carburetors that we repair, rebuild,
modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with a limited
one year workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE
professional technical support.
-
$155.00 each with a rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in (certain
valuable parts can be reused off of it on a good carburetor body), plus shipping
& handling. (When available.) IMPORTANT: When sending your
carburetor to me, please package it and all parts to it securely in one sealed
zip-lock sandwich bag to prevent loss of parts in shipping, and to prevent
the odor of gas from escaping the package. If the odor of gas is still present
from outside the package, apply
air freshener on the carburetor to disguise the smell of
gas. Because the US Postal Service or other delivery services will not deliver
any packages that smell like gas. Also, be sure to include a note in the
package with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone number
(in case I have any questions), a description of what you want done, how
the engine will be used and any other parts you may need. I will contact
you when the carburetor (and list of parts) are ready to be sent back to
you.
-
$165.00 each outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling.
(When available.) NOTE: Please don't discard your Carter or Kohler
carburetor core. If not rebuildable, certain valuable parts can be reused
on a good core. (The OEM (US) manufacturers are phasing out many parts for
flathead engines due to EPA smog emissions. But some parts may still be available
in aftermarket.)
Professionally Rebuilt Genuine
OEM Carter Model N #22 Carburetor. The throttle bore measures .823" diameter
and the venturi is .682" diameter. This particular carburetor is designed
specifically for Kohler engine models K181 and M8. NOTE: Due to the velocity
of air the engine draws through the carburetor and the size of the venturi,
if the wrong size carburetor/venturi is used on a wrong size engine, the
engine may not run correctly and/or not produce full power at top governed
speed. These are plain, stock carburetors that's been completely
disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt with a new overhaul kit, new
throttle shaft and other new parts installed if required. No performance
modifications are made to these carburetors whatsoever. Use
plumber's thread sealing tape on fuel fitting to guarantee
a leak-proof seal. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be
initially set on the carburetor to get the engine running, but due to the
altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where
the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments
will need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth. OEM Carter
part #'s A-230798, A-231741, A-234631, B-231739, C-231738, F-230350, F-230501,
F-230502, G-220517. (Not all numbers stamped on Carter carburetors are listed
with Kohler.) OEM Kohler part #'s 41 053 01, 41 053 04, 41 053 05, 41 053
06, 41 053 18, 41 053 20. Please indicate if the carburetor you need use
2 or 3 air cleaner mounting holes. This carburetor is discontinued from Kohler.
L All carburetors that we repair, rebuild,
modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with a limited
one year workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE
professional technical support.
-
$75.00 each with a rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in (certain
valuable parts can be reused off of it on a good carburetor body), plus shipping
& handling. (When available.) IMPORTANT: When sending your
carburetor to me, please package it and all parts to it securely in one sealed
zip-lock sandwich bag to prevent loss of parts in shipping, and to prevent
the odor of gas from escaping the package. If the odor of gas is still present
from outside the package, apply
air freshener on the carburetor to disguise the smell of
gas. Because the US Postal Service or other delivery services will not deliver
any packages that smell like gas. Also, be sure to include a note in the
package with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone number
(in case I have any questions), a description of what you want done, how
the engine will be used and any other parts you may need. I will contact
you when the carburetor (and list of parts) are ready to be sent back to
you.
-
$95.00 each outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling.
(When available.) NOTE: Please don't discard your Carter or Kohler
carburetor core. If not rebuildable, certain valuable parts can be reused
on a good core. (The OEM (US) manufacturers are phasing out many parts for
flathead engines due to EPA smog emissions. But some parts may still be available
in aftermarket.)
High Quality "Made in China"
Aftermarket Carter Model N-Replicated Fully Adjustable Carburetor. The
throttle bore in this particular carburetor measures .811" diameter and the
venturi is .588" diameter. This is an alternative universal carburetor that
can be used on Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181 or M8. Due to the
size of the venturi, this carburetor may not work correctly on the K90/K91
engines. Direct replacement; no modifications to linkages required. When
installing the carburetor, reuse the same linkage and everything else. Transfer
the 1/8" NPT fuel hose fitting (use
plumber's thread sealing tape on fitting to guarantee a
leak-proof seal), install carburetor on engine, adjust the idle speed and
air/fuel mixtures until the engine runs smooth. Irrelevant Carter/Kohler
part number(s). Comes with a one year limited warranty from date of purchase.
Warranty includes FREE professional technical support. $30.00 each,
plus shipping & handling. |
 Professionally Rebuilt Genuine OEM Carter or Kohler #26
Carburetors. The throttle bore measures 26mm/1.07" diameter and the venturi
is .812" diameter. This particular carburetor is designed specifically for
Kohler engine models K241, K301, K330/K331, M10 and M12. NOTE: Due to
the velocity of air the engine draws through the carburetor and the size
of the venturi, if the wrong size carburetor/venturi is used on a wrong size
engine, the engine may not run correctly and/or not produce full power at
top governed speed. These are plain, stock carburetors that's been completely
disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt with a new overhaul kit, new
throttle shaft bushing or new throttle shaft (if needed) and other new parts
installed if required. No performance modifications made to these carburetors
whatsoever. Includes choke plate installed. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture
adjustments will be initially set on the carburetor to get the engine running,
but due to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air
temperature where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel
mixture adjustments will need to be made by the customer so the engine will
run smooth. Kohler carburetor part #'s 47 053 07, 47 053 08, 47 053 12, 47
053 13, 47 053 14, 47 053 24, 47 053 29, 47 053 40, 47 053 62 or 47 053 80.
NOTE: Not all numbers stamped on Carter carburetors are listed with Kohler.
And design of throttle lever, choke lever and number of air cleaner mounting
holes may be different for your particular engine application than shown
in picture to the right. Discontinued from Kohler.
L All carburetors that we repair, rebuild,
modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with a limited
one year workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE
professional technical support.
-
$65.00 each with a rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in (certain
valuable parts can be reused off of it on a good carburetor body), plus shipping
& handling. (When available.)
-
$85.00 each outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling.
(When available.) NOTE: Please don't discard your Carter or Kohler
carburetor core. If not rebuildable, certain valuable parts can be reused
on a good core.
Professionally Rebuilt Genuine
OEM Carter #28 Carburetor. Very rare carburetor. The throttle bore measures
28mm/1.17" diameter and the venturi is .937" diameter. This particular carburetor
is designed specifically for the early Kohler engine model K321 with
specification suffix "A", "B" or "C" (with the smaller 1-1/8" exhaust valve)
and for certain early K341 engines. NOTE: Due to the velocity of air the
engine draws through the carburetor and the size of the venturi, if the wrong
size carburetor/venturi is used on a wrong size engine, the engine may not
run correctly and/or not produce full power at top governed speed. These
are plain, stock carburetors that's been completely disassembled, thoroughly
cleaned and rebuilt with a new overhaul kit, new throttle shaft bushing or
new throttle shaft (if needed) and other new parts installed if required.
No performance modifications made to these carburetors whatsoever. Includes
choke plate installed. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will
be initially set on the carburetor to get the engine running, but due to
the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where
the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments
will need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth. It may
have the part number 236636 stamped on the flange. It has been discontinued
by Carter many years ago. NOTE: Not all numbers stamped on Carter
carburetors are listed with Kohler. And design of throttle lever, choke lever
and number of air cleaner mounting holes may be different for your particular
engine application than shown in picture to the right. All carburetors that
we repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and
come with a limited one year workmanship warranty from date of purchase.
Warranty includes FREE professional technical support.
-
$100.00 each with a rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in (certain
valuable parts can be reused off of it on a good carburetor body), plus shipping
& handling. (When available.)
-
$150.00 each outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling.
(When available.) NOTE: Please don't discard your Carter or Kohler
carburetor core. If not rebuildable, certain valuable parts can be reused
on a good core.
Professionally Rebuilt Genuine
OEM Carter or Kohler #30 Carburetors. The throttle bore measures 30mm/1.2"
diameter and the venturi is 1.000" diameter. This particular carburetor is
designed specifically for Kohler engine models K321 (w/1-3/8" exhaust valve),
K341, M14 and M16. NOTE: Due to the velocity of air the engine draws through
the carburetor and the size of the venturi, if the wrong size carburetor/venturi
is used on a wrong size engine, the engine may not run correctly and/or not
produce full power at top governed speed. These are plain, stock carburetors
that's been completely disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt with
a new overhaul kit, new throttle shaft bushing or new throttle shaft (if
needed) and other new parts installed if required. No performance modifications
made to these carburetors whatsoever. Includes choke plate installed. The
idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be initially set on the
carburetor to get the engine running, but due to the altitude level,
atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine will
be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments will need
to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth. Kohler carburetor
part #'s 47 053 07, 47 053 08, 47 053 12, 47 053 13, 47 053 14, 47 053 24,
47 053 29, 47 053 40, 47 053 62 or 47 053 80. NOTE: Not all numbers stamped
on Carter carburetors are listed with Kohler. And design of throttle lever,
choke lever and number of air cleaner mounting holes may be different for
your particular engine application than shown in picture to the right.
Discontinued from Kohler. L All carburetors
that we repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects
and come with a limited one year workmanship warranty from date of purchase.
Warranty includes FREE professional technical support.
-
$85.00 each with a rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in (certain
valuable parts can be reused off of it on a good carburetor body), plus shipping
& handling. (When available.)
-
$100.00 each outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling.
(When available.) NOTE: Please don't discard your Carter or Kohler
carburetor core. If not rebuildable, certain valuable parts can be reused
on a good core.
Professionally Rebuilt Genuine
OEM Kohler #30 (w/1.25" Throttle Bore) Carburetor. Rare carburetor. The
throttle bore measures 32mm/1.25" diameter and the venturi is .812" diameter.
This particular carburetor is designed specifically for Kohler engine model
K361 OHV. NOTE: Due to the velocity of air the engine draws through the
carburetor and the size of the venturi, if the wrong size carburetor/venturi
is used on a wrong size engine, the engine may not run correctly and/or not
produce full power at top governed speed. Completely disassembled, thoroughly
cleaned and professionally rebuilt with a new overhaul kit, new throttle
shaft bushing or new throttle shaft (if needed) and other new parts installed
if required. No performance modifications made whatsoever. The idle speed
and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be initially set on the carburetor
to get the engine running, but due to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric
pressure and air temperature where the engine will be used, final idle and
high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments will need to be made by the customer
so the engine will run smooth. NOTE: Design of throttle lever, choke lever
and number of air cleaner mounting holes may be different for your particular
engine application than shown in picture to the right. Discontinued from
Kohler. L Kohler carburetor part #'s 47 053
07, 47 053 08, 47 053 12, 47 053 13, 47 053 14, 47 053 24, 47 053 29, 47
053 40, 47 053 62 or 47 053 80. All carburetors that we repair, rebuild,
modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with a limited
one year workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE
professional technical support.
-
$175.00 each with a rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in (certain
valuable parts can be reused off of it on a good carburetor body), plus shipping
& handling. (When available.)
-
$195.00 each outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling.
(When available.) NOTE: Please don't discard your Carter or Kohler
carburetor core. If not rebuildable, certain valuable parts can be reused
on a good core.
NEW
high quality "Made in China" Aftermarket Kohler-replicated fully adjustable
carburetors. Each is a direct replacement with the same function and
appearance as OEM Carter and Kohler carburetors. No modifications required.
Before installing carburetor, transfer the 1/8" NPT fuel hose fitting (use
plumber's thread sealing tape on fitting to guarantee a
leak-proof seal), reuse same linkage and everything else, and after carburetor
is installed on engine, with engine running, adjust idle speed and low and
high speed air/fuel mixture screws until engine runs smooth. NOTE: Please
specify if you need a carburetor with a hole or ball on throttle lever.
FYI: Some people advertise online that the carburetor for Kohler engine
models K241/M10 and K301/M12 can also be used on the K321/M14, K341/M16 and
K361 engines. But I know for a fact that if the K241/M10 and K301/M12 carburetor
is used on a K321/M14, K341/M16 or K361, which produces 14hp, 16hp and 18hp,
respectively, with the correct carburetors, would produce about 12hp, 14hp
and 15hp, and make less torque, because the engine would be drawing less
air through the smaller carburetor to produce not as much compression. I
guess the seller don't know the difference between these carburetors, because
they look virtually identical on the outside. Or maybe the seller figures
what most people don't know, makes them more money. Comes with a one
year limited warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE professional
technical support.
-
NEW high quality "Made in China" Aftermarket Kohler-replicated, fully adjustable
#26 (1.07" throttle bore) carburetor with hole or ball on throttle lever
and short choke lever. Designed for Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models
K241/M10 and K301/M12 with the
round-shaped metal air
cleaner/filter assembly. Please specify if you need the carburetor
with a hole in the throttle lever or ball on the throttle lever.
$40.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
NEW high quality "Made in China" Aftermarket Kohler-replicated, fully adjustable
#26 (1.07" throttle bore) carburetor with ball on throttle lever and long
choke lever. Designed for Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) engine models K241 and
K301 with the oblong-shaped
metal air cleaner/filter assembly. Please specify if you need the
carburetor with a hole in the throttle lever or ball on the throttle lever.
$55.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
NEW high quality "Made in China" Aftermarket Kohler-replicated, fully adjustable
#30 (1.17" throttle bore) carburetor with hole or ball on throttle lever
and short choke lever. Designed for Kohler engine models K321/M14, K341/M16
with the round-shaped metal
air cleaner/filter assembly. Please specify if you need the carburetor
with a hole in the throttle lever or ball on the throttle lever.
$40.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
NEW high quality "Made in China" Aftermarket Kohler-replicated, fully adjustable
#30 (1.17" throttle bore) carburetor with ball on throttle lever and long
choke lever. Designed for Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) engine models K321 and
K341 with the oblong-shaped
metal air cleaner/filter assembly. Please specify if you need the
carburetor with a hole in the throttle lever or ball on the throttle lever.
$55.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Performance Stock-Appearing
"Old School" Technology Carburetor Modifications -
Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in
purchasing any of the parts or items in this website. If you need a part
or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and
we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top
of Page]

Bore-out and modify/rework YOUR Carter or Kohler #26, #28 or #30 carburetor
to a limit of .995", 1" or straight-through design (to match the diameter
of throttle bore) or whatever your club's sanctioning rules allow for use
with pump gas, E85 or methanol fuel. I'll need a copy of your club's sanctioning
rules regarding the legality of the carburetor, so when I rework/modify it,
it'll be legal for the class you plan to pull in. FYI - after I
modify/rework a Carter or Kohler carburetor for high performance use, as
long as everything else on the engine
(ignition system,
valve train,
etc.) is in good condition, the carburetor
will, without a doubt, perform flawlessly. - Brian Miller
-
Stock-appearing
carburetor is modified internally to improve engine performance.
$85.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling. Extra charge if
any parts are needed. Labor includes what's listed below, plus whatever high
quality parts and additional services it may need that's listed below.
-
If main jet/nozzle cannot be removed with a screwdriver and must be drilled
out so venturi can be bored-out. $35.00 extra for labor and new main
jet/nozzle.
-
Please specify if your engine has stock size valves or oversize valves.
-
Eliminate choke shaft and plate, plug choke shaft holes, and convert carburetor
for use with the remote fuel primer system kit.
If your club's rules require a working choke or if you would like to retain
a working choke, please let A-1 Miller's know. And please read your club's
sanctioning rules carefully to make sure! $20.00 extra for labor
and kit.
-
Convert carburetor to bottom main fuel
adjuster. (Only for high RPM/wide open throttle competition pulling engines).
$17.00 extra.
-
No extra charge to convert your carburetor for use with E85 or methanol fuels
with the high performance modifications.
-
Missing, worn beyond specifications or broken parts are extra charge.
-
All carburetors that we repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to
be free of defects and come with a limited one year workmanship warranty
from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE professional technical support.
NOTE: The venturi in the Chinese-made Kohler-replicated #26 carburetor
can be bored out the same diameter as the throttle bore, to a maximum of
1.09" (1-7/64"), same as the genuine OEM Carter and Kohler #26 carburetors.
But the venturi in the Chinese-made Kohler-replicated #30 carburetor (which
actually a #28 that have a throttle bore diameter of 1.17" / 29.76mm) can
only be bored-out to a maximum of 1.000". If it's bored-out any bigger and
centered with the throttle bore, being the Chinese-made carburetor bodies
of the #26 and #30 are cast in the same mold and machined the same externally,
including the fuel inlet port, the boring process of the venturi in the #30
carburetor to match the diameter of the throttle bore will, without a doubt,
break through into the fuel inlet port, which will allow fuel into the throttle
bore and render the carburetor body useless. But the venturi in the genuine
OEM Carter and Kohler #30 carburetors can be bored out the same size as the
throttle bore, to a maximum of 1.2", with no risk of breaking through into
the fuel inlet port. A bored-out venturi and reworked carburetor is when
the carburetor is modified for maximum performance only for competition pulling.
And remember - performance carburetors are like women, it's what's on
the inside that matters.
NEW fully adjustable Kohler #26
and #30 carburetors bored-out and reworked for high performance use. A bored-out
venturi and reworked carburetor is when the carburetor is modified for maximum
performance for general yard and garden use, and/or for competition pulling.
These carburetors have been internally modified to outperform a stock OEM
Carter or Kohler carburetor under heavy competition pulling load, and when
adjusted correctly, will not run lean at high RPM while going down the track.
Will pass tech with virtually any club. The venturi in these carburetors
are bored to either 7/8", .995", 1" or 1.2" straight-through throttle bore
for high RPM operation, setup for gas, E85 or methanol fuels, whatever your
club's sanctioning rules allow or whatever you desire for all-out engine
performance. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture bore.) OEM will be initially
set on the carburetor to get the engine running, but due to the altitude
level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine
will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture bore.) OEM will
need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth. All carburetors
that we repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects
and come with a limited one year workmanship warranty from date of purchase.
Warranty includes FREE professional technical support. Please specify if
engine has stock size valves or oversize valves.
Also, these carburetors are "built
to order." So when placing an order, please specify if your engine has a
factory stock size or oversize intake valve, if you want it with a .995"
or 1" venturi, or a straight-thru throttle bore (no venturi), if the engine
is going to turn 4,000± RPM or wide open throttle, and if you want the
choke plate/shaft installed.
-
#26 or #30 carburetor with top main fuel adjuster. (For up to 4,000±
RPM.) $100.00 each outright, plus shipping & handling.
-
#26 or #30 carburetor with bottom main
fuel adjuster. (For
wide
open throttle.) $125.00 each outright, plus shipping & handling.
|
Professionally Rebuilt
Genuine OEM Kohler #26 fully adjustable carburetors. Fits Kohler engine models
KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, M18 and M20 (horizontal shaft
engines, without anti-backfire shut-off valve). These are plain, stock
carburetors that's been completely disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt
with a new overhaul kit and other new parts installed if required. No performance
modifications made to these carburetors whatsoever. Includes choke plate
installed. Set up for gas. When ordering, please specify the position
of the choke lever. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will
be initially set on the carburetor to get the engine running, but due to
the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where
the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments
will need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth. Kohler
carburetor part #'s 52 053 09, 52 053 18 or 52 053 28. NOTE: Not all carburetor
numbers are listed with Kohler. All carburetors that we repair, rebuild,
modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with a limited
one year workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE
professional technical support.
-
$45.00 each, with rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in, plus
shipping & handling. (When available.)
-
$65.00 each, outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling.
(When available.)
NEW high quality "Made in China" Aftermarket Kohler-replicated #26 fully
adjustable carburetor. Fits Kohler KT-series and Magnum engine models KT17,
KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20 opposed (flathead)
twin cylinder engines. Direct replacement. Same function and appearance
as OEM Carter or Kohler carburetor. Comes with a changeable upward or
downward swing choke lever. Simply remove retaining screw and reposition
choke lever according to your application. When installing the carburetor,
reuse the same linkage and everything else. Transfer the 1/8" NPT fuel hose
fitting (use
plumber's thread sealing tape on fitting to guarantee a
leak-proof seal), install carburetor on engine, adjust the idle speed and
air/fuel mixtures until the engine runs smooth. Each come with a one year
warranty from date of purchase.
-
$35.00 each, with rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in, plus
shipping & handling.
-
$55.00 each, outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling.
|
Carburetors for Kohler engine
models K482, K532 and K582. All carburetors that we repair, rebuild, modify
or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with a limited one
year workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE
professional technical support. FYI: Some people advertise online that
the carburetor for the K482 and K532 can also be used on the K582. But I
know for a fact that if the K482 and K532 carburetor is used on the K582,
which produces 24hp with the correct carburetor, would produce about 21hp
and make less torque, because the engine would be drawing less air through
the smaller carburetor to produce not as much compression. I guess the seller
don't know the differences between these carburetors, because they look virtually
identical on the outside. Or maybe the seller figures what most people don't
know, makes them more money.
Professionally Rebuilt OEM Kohler carburetor with a 1.07" throttle bore (#26).
Designed specifically for Kohler engine models K482 and K532. Cleaned and
rebuilt with a new overhaul kit and other new parts installed if required.
OEM Kohler part # 48 053 07-S. (When available.)
-
$70.00 each with a rebuildable core trade-in, plus shipping &
handling.
-
$100.00 each outright, plus shipping & handling.
Professionally Rebuilt OEM Kohler carburetor with a 1.2" throttle bore (#30).
Designed specifically for Kohler engine model K582. Cleaned and rebuilt with
a new overhaul kit and other new parts installed if required. OEM Kohler
part # 48 053 06-S or 48 053 16-S. (When available.)
-
$70.00 each outright, plus shipping & handling.
-
$100.00 each outright, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality "Made in China" Aftermarket Kohler-replicated fully adjustable
carburetor with a 1.07" throttle bore (#26). Designed specifically for Kohler
engine models K482 and K532. Direct replacement. Same function and appearance
as OEM Carter or Kohler carburetor. No modifications required. Replaces Kohler
part # 48 053 07-S. $65.00 each outright, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality "Made in China" Aftermarket Kohler-replicated fully adjustable
carburetor with a 1.2" throttle bore (#30). Designed specifically for Kohler
engine model K582. Direct replacement. Same function and appearance as OEM
Carter or Kohler carburetor. No modifications required. Replaces Kohler part
# 48 053 06-S or 48 053 16-S. $65.00 each outright, plus shipping
& handling. |
Advertisement:
If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services
listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises
| 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. When
you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with
the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to the
public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate our business to other property with a bigger and better
shop so we can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
|
NOTE: All parts listed here are NEW, unless otherwise
stated. We do not sell cheap junk! As a matter of fact, most OEM Kohler parts
are made in China now. Kohler owns some of the factories in China that make
the parts. And most aftermarket parts are also manufactured by Kohler in
China. Kohler just place the part(s) in a generic box and sell them for less
money. So when purchasing a genuine OEM Kohler part that comes in a box with
the Kohler name on it, you're really just paying more money for the
name. |
Carburetor
to Block Mounting Gaskets. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161,
K181/M8, and various other makes and models of small engines with Carter
Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 and Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetor. Approximately
1/64" compressed thickness. Replaces Tecumseh part # 31960A.
-
High quality aftermarket. Our part # 14-1084. $1.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 210223-S. $3.05 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Air Cleaner Base
or Intake Elbow Adapter to Carburetor Mounting Gasket. Fits Kohler engine
models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181/M8, and various other makes and models
of small engines with Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 and Walbro WHL
#36, #44 and LME carburetors. Approximately 1/32" compressed thickness. Use
with two mounting screws. Discontinued from Kohler.
L Replaces Kohler part # 220537 and Tecumseh
part # 27272A.
-
High quality aftermarket. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Air
Cleaner Base to Carburetor Mounting Gasket. Fits various Kohler engine models
K181 and M8, and various other makes and models of small engines with Walbro
WHL #36, #44 carburetor.
-
OEM Kohler part # 41 041 04-S. $4.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Air Cleaner
Base or Intake Elbow Adapter to Carburetor Mounting Gaskets. Fits Kohler
engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181/M8, and various other makes
and models of small engines with Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 and
Walbro WHL 36, #44 carburetor. Use with two or three mounting screws, depending
on type of air cleaner. Approximately 1/32" compressed thickness. Alternative
gasket to the left.
-
High quality aftermarket. Our part # 7795. $1.10 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 41 041 11-S. $1.65 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Carburetor
to Block Thin Mounting Gaskets. Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12,
K330/K331, K321/M14, K341/M16, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series
II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20 K482, K532 and K582 opposed (flathead) twin
cylinder engines with Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 or Walbro WHG #52, #60,
#64 carburetor. For general lawn and garden use. Approximately 1/32" compressed
thickness.
-
High quality aftermarket. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 271030-S. $3.75 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Carburetor
to Block Heat Isolator Mounting Gasket. Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10,
K301/M12, K330/K331, K321/M14 and K341/M16 with Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30
or Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetor. Use on engines that do a lot of heavy
work. Idea for stock competition pulling engines. Has gaskets adhered to
each side of heat resistant
phenolic
resin center. Approximately .230" compressed thickness. FYI:
This particular gasket prevents engine heat from being transferred to the
carburetor, resulting in cooling and better
atomization
of the fuel before entering the combustion chamber, improving engine
performance.
-
High quality aftermarket. $7.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 47 049 01-S. $12.75 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Air Cleaner
Base to Carburetor Mounting Gaskets. Fits Kohler engine models K241, K301,
K321, K330/K331, K341, and various Magnum engine models M12, M14 and M16
with Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 or Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetor with
the round air cleaner/filter
assembly.
-
High quality aftermarket. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 275341-S. $4.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Air Cleaner
Base to Carburetor Mounting Gasket. Fits Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) engine models
K241, K301, K321, K341 and K361, and various Magnum engine models M10, M12,
M14 and M16 with Kohler #26, #30 or Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors
with the round or oblong air
cleaner/filter assembly.
-
OEM Kohler part # 45 041 07-S. $4.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Air Intake Elbow
Adapter to Carburetor Mounting Gasket. Fits Kohler engine models K321, K341,
KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20, K482,
K532, K582.
-
OEM Kohler part # 25 041 06-S. $2.15 each, plus shipping & handling..
|
Air Cleaner Base
to Elbow Adapter Mounting Gasket. Fits Kohler engine models CH25, CH730-740,
KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20, K482,
K532, K582. Approximately 1/32" compressed thickness.
-
OEM Kohler part # 277093-S. $4.65 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Intake Manifold
to Cylinder Mounting Gasket. Fits Kohler opposed (flathead) twin cylinder
engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18,
M20 and MV20. Approximately 1/32" compressed thickness.
-
High quality aftermarket. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 52 041 09-S. $5.84 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Intake Manifold
to Block Mounting Gasket. Fits Kohler opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engine
models K482, K532 and K582.
-
OEM Kohler part # 48 052 02-S. $4.38 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Carburetor Overhaul
Kits. Fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22, and Carter or Kohler #26,
#28, #30 carburetors used on Kohler K-series and early Magnum single and
opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engines, and various other makes and models
of small engines. Includes
Viton-tip
fuel inlet float valve, brass seat, bowl rubber O-ring seal, fuel baffle/splash
shield, bottom fiber washer and float hinge pin. All rubber-like parts made
of alcohol-resistant
neoprene
rubber. IMPORTANT: For a used float bowl, flatten the bottom of the bowl
from the inside on a hard, flat surface with a small hammer, install the
bowl on the carburetor and tighten the bowl retaining bolt to "clamp" or
squeeze the fuel baffle/splash shield against the O-ring and carburetor body
to prevent splashing fuel from leaking out around the top of the float
bowl.
-
High quality aftermarket. NOTE: Depending on supplier, fuel inlet seat
may require a 10mm thin-wall deep well hex socket to install. (See below.)
Replaces Kohler part #'s 25 757 01-S, 25 757 02-S. $9.00 each, plus
shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part #'s 25 757 01-S, 25 757 02-S. $15.05 each, plus shipping
& handling.
High Quality
10mm 6 Point 1/4" Drive Thin-Wall Deep Well Socket for installing (and
removing) certain aftermarket fuel inlet seats in Carter Model N #13, #16,
#18, #20, #22, and Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30, and Chinese-made aftermarket
carburetors. Can also be used to remove and install the OEM Kohler 3/8" fuel
inlet seat. Machined thin by A-1 Miller's to fit into confined space of inlet
seat. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Return To Previous Paragraph or Section |
Brass Float.
Fits all Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22, and Carter/Kohler #26, #28,
#30 carburetors used on the Kohler K-series, early Magnum single cylinder
K90-K361 single- and twin-cylinder flathead cast iron block engines. May
also fit certain carburetors used on Onan engines. Dimensions (±): 15/16"
I.D. x 1-15/16" O.D. x 5/8" tall. NOTE: The float level/height must be
set correctly on ALL brass floats when installed. They do not come preset.
The correct way to set the float level is remove the carburetor from the
engine, remove the float bowl, and with the carburetor upside-down, use a
small flat blade screwdriver to bend the tab on the float slightly one way
or the other to set the float parallel with the carburetor body. Make sure
the float moves up and down freely, too. If it binds or sticks, carefully
use a flat file to narrow the sides of the hinge for clearance. Be careful
not to file into the float itself!
-
High quality aftermarket. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part
# 25 757 03-S. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Float Stabilizer
Spring. Fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22, and Carter or Kohler
#26, #28, #30 carburetors used on competition pulling engines that run at
high RPMs or at wide open throttle. Minimizes float bouncing due to normal
single cylinder engine vibration, which could cause momentary engine misfire
and/or fuel spillage out of the atmospheric vent opening (air passageway
from inside the float bowl area to outside of carburetor). Listed mainly
for off-road utility vehicles and generator/welders; not necessary for general
lawn and garden equipment or 4,000± RPM competition pulling engines.
-
Used and in excellent condition. $7.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
(When available)
-
New. OEM Kohler part # 237917-S. $14.15 each, plus shipping &
handling.
|
Float Bowl O-Ring
Seals. This particular part prevents fuel from leaking out of the top of
the float bowl due to normal or high RPM engine vibrations. Required in all
carburetors. Each fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22, and Carter
or Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors used on the Kohler K-series and early
Magnum single cylinder 4hp-16hp, 18hp OHV single- and twin-cylinder flathead
cast iron block engines. Also fits Tecumseh engines with the Carter or Walbro
carburetors with the large bowl, and Briggs and Stratton 7hp-12hp vertical
shaft flathead engine carburetors. (These early B&S carburetors was
designed and made by the
Carter Carburetor Corporation.) Dimensions (±):
2-3/16" I.D. x 2-7/16" O.D. x .040" thickness. Alcohol-resistant neoprene
rubber O-ring included in overhaul/rebuild kits above
È. IMPORTANT: For a used float bowl,
flatten the bottom of the bowl from the inside on a hard, flat surface with
a small hammer, install the bowl on the carburetor and tighten the bowl retaining
bolt to "clamp" or squeeze the fuel baffle/splash shield against the O-ring
and carburetor body to prevent splashing fuel from leaking out around the
top of the float bowl.
-
OEM Briggs & Stratton part # 270511. Made of alcohol-resistant paper-like
gasket material. $1.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
High quality aftermarket. Made of alcohol-resistant
neoprene
rubber. Replaces Kohler part # 200375-S. $2.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 200375-S. Made of alcohol-resistant
neoprene
rubber. $5.12 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Alcohol-Resistant
Neoprene
Rubber Fuel Baffle/Splash Shield. This particular part prevents fuel from
inside the float bowl from traveling up through the atmospheric vent passageway
due to normal or high RPM engine vibrations and possibly being sucked into
the throttle bore, which can momentarily cause engine misfire. Goes between
bowl seal and float bowl. Required in all carburetors. Fits all Carter Model
N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 and Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors
used on the Kohler K-series and early Magnum single cylinder 4hp-16hp, 18hp
OHV single- and twin-cylinder flathead cast iron block engines. Included
in overhaul/rebuild kit above È.
IMPORTANT: For a used float bowl, flatten the bottom of the bowl from
the inside on a hard, flat surface with a small hammer, install the bowl
on the carburetor and tighten the bowl retaining bolt to "clamp" or squeeze
the fuel baffle/splash shield against the O-ring and carburetor body to prevent
splashing fuel from leaking out around the top of the float bowl.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 25 041 02-S. $3.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 25 041 02-S. $4.92 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Float Bowl with
5/16" Hole. Designed for Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors
used on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, and various
other makes and models of small engines. Dimensions: 2-3/8" O.D. x 1-1/4"
height x 5/16" bottom hole. NOTE: The float bowls listed below can be
used in place of this one. The 5/16" bottom bolt/washer will seal the 3/8"
hole.
-
OEM Kohler part # 200418-S. Available in soft aluminum only.
$22.55 each, plus shipping & handling.
Float Bowls with 3/8" Hole.
Designed for Carter and Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors used on Kohler engine
models K241, K301, K330/K331, K321, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19,
KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582. Also fits Briggs and Stratton 7hp-12hp
vertical shaft flathead engine carburetors. (These early B&S carburetors
was designed and made by the
Carter Carburetor Corporation.) The Briggs & Stratton
steel float bowl has exactly the same dimensions as the Kohler aluminum float
bowl. Either are interchangeable. The anodized steel bowl is better quality
because it will not dent easily and not corrode through due to water
contamination. Dimensions: 2-3/8" O.D. x 1-1/4" height x 3/8" bottom
hole.
-
OEM Briggs and Stratton part # 221995. Made of durable anodized steel.
$8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 235448-S. Made of soft aluminum. $16.60 each, plus
shipping & handling.
|
Carburetor Overhaul
Kits with
Viton-tip
fuel inlet float valve. Fits Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64
carburetors that's used on Kohler Magnum engine models M8, M10, M12, M14,
M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20 single- and twin-cylinder flathead cast
iron block engines. May also fit certain carburetors used on Onan engines.
All rubber-like parts made of alcohol-resistant
neoprene
rubber. Includes carburetor mounting gasket. NOTE: On all Walbro WHL #36,
#44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors, the fuel inlet seat is pressed-in
at the factory. If it's removed and replaced with a new one, the carburetor
body may be rendered useless, because it will mostly likely leak fuel. So
it'll be best to just install a new fuel inlet valve and leave the seat alone.
Remember - in the laws of physics, the moving part will wear more than the
stationary part.
-
OEM Walbro part # K1-WHG. $13.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 25 757 11-S. (Same as above
È, made by Walbro.) $59.75 each,
plus shipping & handling.
Alcohol-Resistant
Viton-tip
fuel inlet float valve. Fits Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64
carburetors that's used on Kohler Magnum engine models M8, M10, M12, M14,
M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20 single- and twin-cylinder flathead cast
iron block engines. May also fit certain carburetors used on Onan engines.
NOTE: On all Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors, the
fuel inlet seat is pressed-in at the factory. If it's removed and replaced
with a new one, the carburetor body may be rendered useless, because it will
mostly likely leak fuel. So it'll be best to just install a new fuel inlet
valve and leave the seat alone. Remember - in the laws of physics, the moving
part will wear more than the stationary part. Not available separate
from Kohler. OEM Walbro part # 82-529-7. $3.50 each, plus shipping
& handling.
Alcohol-Resistant
Viton-tip
fuel inlet float valve. Fits Walbro carburetors used on cast iron block Clinton
and Tecumseh engines. Replaces: Clinton part # 293-30-5; Walbro part #'s
200-506, 200-547.
-
High quality aftermarket. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Walbro part. $11.40 each, plus shipping & handling.
Alcohol-Resistant
Neoprene
Rubber Float Bowl Rubber O-Ring Seal. Fits Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52,
#60, #64 carburetors that's used on Kohler Magnum engine models M8, M10,
M12, M14, M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20 single- and twin-cylinder flathead
cast iron block engines. May also fit certain carburetors used on Onan engines.
Dimensions (±): 2-3/8" I.D. x 2-1/2" O.D. x .065" thickness. Square
cross-section.
-
OEM Walbro part #'s 92-16-8, 92-301-8. $1.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
Kohler part # 25 041 04-S. (Same as above
È, made by Walbro.) $5.74 each,
plus shipping & handling.
Plastic Floats. Fits Walbro
WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors used on newer Kohler Magnum
engine models M8, M10, M12, M14, M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. May
also fit certain carburetors used on Onan engines. May also fit certain
carburetors used on Onan engines.
-
OEM Walbro part # 75-566-1. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Kohler part # 25 757 09-S. (Same as above
È, made by Walbro.) $20.59 each,
plus shipping & handling.
Float bowls. Fits Walbro WHL
#36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors used on Kohler Magnum engine models
K141, K160/K161, K181/M8, K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16, MV16, M18,
MV18, M20 and MV20. May also fit certain carburetors used on Onan engines.
2½" outside diameter. Each made of dent-proof, anodized, corrosion-resistant
steel.
-
OEM Walbro part # 20-180-1. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Kohler part # 25 104 01-S. (Same as above
È, made by Walbro.) $18.05 each,
plus shipping & handling.
|
5/16" I.D. Float
Bowl Sealing Gaskets. Fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors,
smaller Briggs & Stratton, Mikuni, Tecumseh and various other makes and
models of small engine carburetors. The 5/16" gasket is not included in the
Carter/Kohler carburetor overhaul/rebuild kit.
-
Fiber Gasket. High quality aftermarket. Replaces Briggs & Stratton part
#'s 221172, 271716, 691608, 691898, and Tecumseh part #'s 27110A, 632673,
640042. $1.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Soft Aluminum Gasket. Briggs & Stratton part #'s 222014, 397882, 690618.
$1.60 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Fiber Gasket. OEM Kohler Kohler part # 200372-S. $2.10 each, plus
shipping & handling.
3/8" I.D. Float Bowl Sealing
Gaskets. Fits Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors, Walbro WHL #36, #44
carburetors, WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors. Also fits certain larger Briggs
& Stratton and various other makes and models of small engine carburetors.
Included with Carter/Kohler carburetor overhaul/rebuild kit. Each washer
listed below replaces Kohler part #'s 12 041 06-S, 25 041 03-S.
-
Fiber Gasket. OEM Walbro part # 92-300-8. .45¢ each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
Fiber Gasket. Briggs & Stratton part # 271716. .50¢ each,
plus shipping & handling.
Float Bowl Retaining Bolts.
Fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors used on Kohler engine
models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, including many other makes and models
of various small engines. Each includes fiber sealing washer. Dimensions:
1/2" head x 5/16-24 UNF threads x 3/8" thread length.
-
High quality aftermarket. Stainless steel material A-1 Miller part. Replaces
Kohler part # 41 100 01-S. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
New Old Stock or Used and in Excellent Condition. Discontinued OEM Kohler
part # 41 100 01-S. $7.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When
available.)
Float Bowl Retaining Bolts.
Fits Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors, and Walbro WHL #36, #44
and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors used on Kohler engine models M8, K241/M10,
K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Also fits the
carburetor on all Briggs & Stratton opposed twin cylinder flathead engines.
Replaces obsolete Briggs & Stratton part # 397882. Each includes fiber
sealing washer.
-
1/2" head x 3/8-24 UNF threads x 3/8" thread length. OEM Walbro part # 96-340-7.
$3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
1/2" head x 3/8-24 UNF threads x 3/8" thread length. OEM Kohler part # 12
086 05-S. (Same as above È, made by
Walbro.) $2.58 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
9/16" head x 3/8-24 UNF threads x 3/8" thread length. New Old Stock or Used
and in Excellent Condition. Discontinued OEM Kohler part # 47 100 06-S.
$5.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Convert the Carter or Kohler
#26, #28 or #30 Carburetors to a Bottom Main Fuel Adjuster -
The bottom high speed main air/fuel
adjustment assembly is not an OEM Kohler part and is not a modification by
Kohler. This is an absolute must for a competition pulling engine that runs
at very high RPM or wide open throttle. It provides no high performance engine
enhancements whatsoever. It's an add-on feature that replaces the OEM float
bowl retaining bolt above È only to
prevent wearing or enlarging the fuel suction hole in the main jet by the
OEM high speed needle air/fuel adjustment screw due to normal engine vibration
at very high RPM or wide open throttle engine operations. (Whoever says that
the use of this part will increase the performance of an engine obviously
do not know what they are talking about, or they are in the business of selling
new main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube)s, which can be very difficult to remove.)
The carburetor must be
converted to
the bottom adjustment screw when using this part. Fits all Carter or
Kohler #26, #28 and #30 carburetors used on Kohler K-series and early Magnum
engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361. Can also be
used in the carburetor on all Briggs & Stratton opposed twin cylinder
flathead engines to "fine tune" the air/fuel mixture. Read below how to covert
the carburetor for use with a bottom main fuel adjustment screw. NOTICE:
Being I have no idea how long the bottom adjusters that I order from my suppliers
been sitting on their shelf, the original rubber O-ring may or may not be
deteriorated and dry-rotted. The new bottom adjuster can be used the way
it is, but if it leaks fuel, it will need a new O-ring installed. Make sure
the compression nut is snug against the O-ring too, to prevent a fuel leak
and to prevent the adjuster valve from rotating on its own from normal engine
vibrations. $17.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
New high quality alcohol-resistant
neoprene
rubber O-ring seal for bottom main fuel adjustment assembly above
È. Dimensions: 5/32" I.D. x 9/32" O.D.
.25¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
How to Easily Convert the Carter or Kohler #26, #28 or #30 Carburetors
to a Bottom Main Fuel Adjuster - An ingenious and innovative concept
by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this type of foolproof
conversion. [Top
of Page]
  This conversion
has been proven many times to function flawlessly for a high RPM or
wide open throttle competition pulling engine. The bottom main fuel adjuster
is not an OEM Kohler part and not a modification by Kohler. Actually, this
is the same principle that was used on Briggs & Stratton's 6-12.5hp vertical
shaft flathead engines, and it works excellent! It provides no high performance
enhancements and no "added horsepower" to the engine whatsoever. This part
is an absolute must for a competition pulling engine that runs at very high
RPM or wide open throttle. It's an add-on feature that replaces the OEM float
bowl retaining bolt only to prevent wearing or enlarging of the fuel suction
hole (orifice) in the main jet by the pointed end of the OEM high speed needle
adjuster due to normal vibration at very high RPM or wide open throttle engine
operation. Whoever says the use of the bottom main fuel adjuster will increase
the performance of an engine obviously do not know what they are talking
about, or they are in the business of selling new main jet/nozzles, which
can be very difficult to remove. Rather the main jet/nozzle can be easily
removed with a screwdriver or drilled into and chiseled out. If the main
jet/nozzle is not removed carefully, damage to the carburetor could result,
rendering it useless. Also, with a bored-out venturi, a 60º angle will
need to be precisely ground on the end of the nozzle in exact alignment with
the centerline of the throttle bore so engine vacuum will draw fuel through
the main jet/nozzle immediately upon revving up. A bored-out venturi and
reworked carburetor is when the carburetor is modified for maximum performance
for general yard and garden use, and/or for competition pulling.
Due to normal engine vibration at high RPM or wide open throttle operation,
the pointed tip on the OEM top high speed air/fuel needle adjuster will "severely
vibrate around" inside the main jet hole (orifice) of the main jet/nozzle.
The tip of the flexible brass needle adjuster will eventually wear the main
jet hole (orifice) so large, the engine will run rich on fuel, and over time
as the hole (orifice) wears even larger, further lean adjustments will be
impossible. This will happen with gas or alcohol fuels. There is no way to
prevent this from happening except convert the carburetor to the bottom main
fuel adjuster. And when the carburetor is reworked with the venturi bored-out
(straight-through throttle bore design) for high performance use, this equals
the performance of the popular "Super Carb" competition pulling carburetor.
(Which we think is a very fine performance carburetor.) Also, if you're wondering
if the presence of the OEM high speed adjuster tube will slow the incoming
airflow through the "straight through" throttle bore, well, the throttle
plate and shaft are about 30% wider than the high speed adjuster tube, even
with the throttle shaft ground/milled narrow or thin to allow for more airflow
through the carburetor. FYI
- The bottom main fuel adjuster was originally introduced on the Briggs &
Stratton 7hp-12hp vertical shaft flathead engine carburetors, which was designed
and made by the
Carter Carburetor Corporation. The B&S bottom adjuster
has 5/16" threads and will not fit the Carter or Kohler #26, #28 or #30
carburetors.
How to Convert a Carburetor to the Bottom Main Fuel Adjuster:
-
Break off the tip on the top OEM high speed needle adjuster at the lower
idle fuel feed hole (orifice) with pliers. Make sure inside the tube is open
and not clogged with dried gas or debris to allow fuel to still be drawn
through the tube so the engine will idle). And bevel the end of the tube
so fuel can flow past it smoothly at high RPM. Preferably use an OEM adjuster
with a damaged tip for this conversion. There's no need to ruin a good adjuster
for this.
-
Remove the OEM compression pressure spring from the high speed adjuster and
install a spacer or stack of flat washers measuring approximately 9/32" in
height in place of the spring. The 9/32" height positions the end of the
high speed adjuster stem/tube about midway in the float bowl and about 3/16"
above the main jet hole (orifice) so fuel will be drawn through the tube
so the engine will idle.
-
Reinstall the top OEM high speed needle adjuster in the carburetor body with
the spacer or washers and tighten it in place, making it fixed in place and
non-adjustable.
-
Reinstall the float, bowl, etc., and install the bottom main fuel adjuster
(instead of the OEM float bowl retaining bolt), and tighten the adjuster.
IMPORTANT - Before tightening the bottom adjuster, back off the needle
(in the adjuster) to keep it from jamming into the main jet hole, possibly
causing damage or stripping the threads in the carburetor body!
-
Install the carburetor on the engine, linkages and fuel hose on the carburetor,
start the engine, and
adjust the idle air/fuel
mixture screw and the high speed air/fuel mixture bottom adjuster until
the engine runs smooth at idle and at high RPM or wide open throttle. NOTE:
Absolutely nothing needs to be done to the idle fuel passageways or the idle
fuel mixture adjusting screw. Just leave them alone. The engine should idle
fine after the conversion. And there's no need to install a small brass tube
next to the float for the idle fuel passageway. The tube could interfere
with the operation of the float.
Return To Previous Paragraph or
Section
|
New Brass Main
Jet/Nozzle (Emulsion Tube). Fits all Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors
used on Kohler K-series and early Magnum engine models K241, K301, K321,
K330/K331, K341, K361 and opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engines. Drilled
for gas. This part is professionally CNC machined in the USA and not available
from Kohler. NOTE: When rebuilding a plain, stock Carter or Kohler
carburetor, there is no need to remove the main jet/nozzle. If it won't come
out, then don't worry about it. All that has to be done to make sure the
bottom hole and the side holes on it are open. To check if the side holes
are open, simply spray carburetor cleaner or WD-40 or carburetor cleaner
(in an aerosol spray can) through the small hole just under the choke plate
and observe if the spray exits out the main jet/nozzle inside the throttle
bore and bottom of carburetor. But if modifying a carburetor to bore the
venturi, the main jet/nozzle must be removed.
Click or tap here
for how to remove the main jet/nozzle.
-
$10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Kohler
Anti-Backfire/Engine Shut-Off Solenoid Valve Kit. The solenoid valve [in
the carburetor] shuts off the engine when the ignition is turned off. The
way it works is, upon engine shut down, the valve blocks air from entering
the float bowl through the atmospheric vent opening (air passageway from
inside the float bowl area to outside of carburetor; which is where the solenoid
valve is located). When this happens, the engine can't draw fuel, so it shuts
down. The solenoid is energized the entire time the ignition switch is on.
The reason Kohler installed this feature is to prevent the engine from producing
a loud backfire sound (BANG!) out the muffler when it's shut off. With the
solenoid in working condition and upon engine shut down, no unburned fuel
enters the hot muffler, therefore, no backfire. When the solenoid fails or
goes bad, the engine will not start. This particular part is designed for
Kohler engine models K181 with specification numbers: 13802, 13803, 13804,
13805, 13806, 13807, 13808, 13809, 13810, 13811, 13812, 13813, 13814, 13815,
13816, 13817, 13818, 13820, 30671, 30715, 30739; M18 with specification numbers:
24600, 24603, 24610, 24637, 24652, 49547, 49564, 49605; K582 with specification
numbers: 36246, 36249, 36261, 36266, 36268, 36285, 36389, 36310, 36389, 36327,
36202-36389, 36337, 36350, 36371, 36373, 36389, 36376, 36382, 36392. OEM
Kohler part # 25 755 05-S. $82.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
NOTE: Being the solenoid (OEM Kohler part # 25 755 06-S) for Kohler engine
models M18 with specification numbers: 24563, 24568, 24574, 24577, 24592,
24594, 24599, 24619, 24630, 24631, 24636, 24646, 24655, 24656, 24659, 24664,
24674, 24696, 49514, 49544, 49545, 49565, 49569, 49570, 49572; M20 with
specification numbers: 49584, 49595, 49599, 49608, 49623, 49624, 49629; MV20
with specification numbers: 57501-57514, 57527, 57528 is no longer available,
to convert these engines without use of the solenoid, remove the failed solenoid
and valve, cut some short threads in the hole (remove the float bowl first
and use compressed air to clear out the metal cuttings), and install a 3/8"
Allen set screw in the hole. Don't thread the set screw deep in the hole,
or it will block off outside atmospheric air from entering the float bowl.
Without a solenoid, the engine would require a different ignition switch
to shut off the spark. And the engine should be idled down before shutting
it off to lessen the chance of a backfire out the muffler. |
Idle Air/Fuel
Mixture Adjustment Screw. Fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors
with following numbers stamped on top of carburetor body: G-220517, C-231738,
B-231739, 41 053 01, 41 053 13, 41 053 18, 41 053 20 used on Kohler engine
models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161 and K181. This same part is also designed
for the Carter and Kohler #30 carburetors with the 1.17" or 1.2" throttle
bore used on Kohler engine models K321 and K341 with following numbers stamped
on mounting flange: 45 053 08, 45 053 09, 45 053 12, 45 053 20, 45 053 68,
45 053 70, 45 053 76, 45 053 86, 45 053 87, 45 053 88, 45 053 89, 47 053
03, 47 053 09, 47 053 15, 47 053 16, 47 053 17, 47 053 20, 47 053 30, 47
053 41, 47 053 63, 47 053 78 used on Kohler engine models K321, K341 and
K361. If there's no numbers anywhere on the carburetor body, then it's
definitely an aftermarket Chinese-made carburetor. Because Carter, Kohler
and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on the flange of all their carburetors.
Short step tip. Dimensions: .865" overall length x .200" tip length.
Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part #'s 275231-S and 200438-S.
High quality aftermarket. NOTE: Use with a snug-fitting neoprene rubber
O-ring in an OEM Carter or Kohler carburetor to prevent a vacuum leak.
$10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Idle Air/Fuel Mixture Adjustment
Screw. Fits Carter or Kohler #26 carburetors with 1.07" throttle bore used
on Kohler K-series engine models K241, K301 and K330/K331. Designed specifically
for Kohler carburetors with following numbers stamped on mounting flange:
47 053 07, 47 053 08, 47 053 12, 47 053 13, 47 053 14, 47 053 15, 47 053
16, 47 053 24, 47 053 29, 47 053 35, 47 053 40, 47 053 62, 47 053 80, 52
053 60. If there's no numbers anywhere on the carburetor body, then it's
definitely an aftermarket Chinese-made carburetor. Because Carter, Kohler
and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on the flange of all their carburetors.
Long step tip. Dimensions: .925" overall length x .260" tip length. Used
and in excellent condition. Discontinued OEM Kohler part # 235006-S.
$15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
Idle Air/Fuel Mixture Adjustment
Screw. Fits Kohler carburetors used on Kohler KT-series engine models KT17,
KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, and models K482, K532 and K582. Designed
specifically for Kohler carburetors with following numbers stamped on mounting
flange: 48 053 06 (K582), 52 053 09, 52 053 18, 52 053 28. If there's
no numbers anywhere on the carburetor body, then it's definitely an aftermarket
Chinese-made carburetor. Because Carter, Kohler and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a
part number on the flange of all their carburetors. Long tapered tip.
Dimensions: 1.026" overall length x .404" tip length. Used and in excellent
condition. Discontinued OEM Kohler part # 277210-S. $7.45 each, plus
shipping & handling. (When available.)
 Neoprene Rubber O-Ring for Aftermarket Idle Air/Fuel Mixture
Adjustment Screw used on Carter or Kohler #26, #28 and #30 carburetors. This
is an add-on item; Carter and Kohler carburetors did not originally come
with an O-ring on the idle air/fuel mixture screw. Install this part to prevent
a vacuum leak through the threads of the screw to help the engine start quicker
(when throttle is in idle position), idle smoother, and idle down upon
deceleration without stalling. .25¢ each, plus shipping &
handling.
High Speed Air/Fuel Mixture
Needle Adjustment Screws. Fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22
Carburetors. NOTE: Various high speed adjusters are designed for a
particular carburetor. The part number of the carburetor to match the type
of adjuster are listed below. Kohler don't give their dealers much information
on this. When compared the type of adjuster to the part numbers on each
carburetor, we found that some are in fact different. The tiny holes midway
on the stem of the high speed adjuster allows a small amount of air to be
mixed with fuel through the idle circuit so the engine won't idle too rich
or too lean on fuel. And with no tiny holes present midway on the stem allows
full flow of fuel through the idle circuit, which when used in a wrong
carburetor, may cause the engine to idle too rich on fuel. So if an engine
idles well (with the present adjuster), then the carburetor has the correct
adjuster. Also, being the high speed adjusters are made of soft brass, if
the pointed tip is slightly bent, it can be easily straightened with pliers
and reused, and should not effect engine performance whatsoever. It's a valve
that regulates the amount of fuel that goes in the engine. The tip does not
need to be centered with the hole in the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube).
Gas will still get around it. And over-tightening the needle in the main
jet hole will crush the tip out of shape, making it difficult to regulate
the fuel. If the tips is damaged from being overtightened, the high speed
adjuster will need to be replaced.
High Speed Air/Fuel Mixture
Needle Adjustment Screws. Fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20 and #22
carburetors that's used on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161
and K181. Lower hole enlarged so engine will start quicker (when throttle
is in idle position), idle better, and idle down upon deceleration without
stalling. The two parts listed below Ê
are identical in every way except 200410-S is listed for Carter carburetors
having the following numbers stamped on top of carburetor body: A-230798,
A-231966, B-231231, B-231450, B-231469, C-231738, E-231480, E-231488, E-231489,
F-230350, F-230502, G-220517, G-230500, 231287, 24588, 41 053 06, 41 053
13, 41 053 14. And 200410-S is listed for Carter carburetors having the following
numbers stamped on top of carburetor body: A-231741, A-234641, C-231738,
B-231739, 41 053 01, 41 053 04, 41 053 05, 41 053 06, 41 053 18, 41 053 20.
IMPORTANT - Please check numbers on carburetor before ordering and go here
to identify the correct part for any particular carburetor:
Kohler
Carburetor Reference Manual. If there's no numbers anywhere on the
carburetor body, then it's definitely an aftermarket Chinese-made carburetor.
Because Carter, Kohler and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on the flange
of all their carburetors.
-
High quality aftermarket. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part
#'s 200410-S and 232635-S. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Speed Air/Fuel Mixture
Needle Adjustment Screws. Fits Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 Carburetors.
NOTE: Various high speed adjusters are designed for a particular carburetor.
The part number of the carburetor to match the type of adjuster are listed
below. Kohler don't give their dealers much information on this. When compared
the type of adjuster to the part numbers on each carburetor, we found that
some are in fact different. The tiny holes midway on the stem of the high
speed adjuster allows a small amount of air to be mixed with fuel through
the idle circuit so the engine won't idle too rich or too lean on fuel. And
with no tiny holes midway on the stem allows full flow of fuel through the
idle circuit, which when used in a wrong carburetor, may cause the engine
to idle too rich on fuel. So if an engine idles well (with the present adjuster),
then the carburetor has the correct adjuster. Also, being the high speed
adjusters are made of soft brass, if the pointed tip is slightly bent, it
can be easily straightened with pliers and reused, and should not effect
engine performance whatsoever. It's a valve that regulates the amount of
fuel that goes in the engine. The tip does not need to be centered with the
hole in the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube). Gas will still get around it.
And over-tightening the needle in the main jet hole will crush the tip out
of shape, making it difficult to regulate the fuel. If the tips is damaged
from being overtightened, the high speed adjuster will need to be replaced.
Or the damaged tip can be broken off at the lower hole(s), and the [#26,
#28 or #30] carburetor can be converted for use with a
bottom main fuel adjuster.
High Speed Air/Fuel Mixture
Needle Adjustment Screw. Fits certain Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors
used on Kohler K-series and early Magnum flathead engine models K241, K301,
K330/K331, K321, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18,
M20, MV20 and certain K532 and K582 engines. 3-3/8" overall length. Has four
tiny holes midway on the stem (this is important so the engine will idle
correctly) and two holes on lower stem. Interchangeable with discontinued
OEM Kohler high speed adjuster part # 52 103 01-S, which has four tiny holes
midway on the stem and one hole on lower stem. Lower hole enlarged so engine
will start quicker (when throttle is in idle position), idle better, and
idle down upon deceleration without stalling. There's no need to do this
on adjusters with two lower holes. Designed specifically for Kohler carburetors
with following numbers stamped on mounting flange: 47 053 07, 47 053 08,
47 053 12, 47 053 13, 47 053 14, 47 053 24, 47 053 29, 47 053 35, 47 053
40, 47 053 62, 47 053 80, 48 053 06 (K582), 52 053 01, 52 053 02, 52 053
09, 52 053 10, 52 053 11, 52 053 16, 52 053 18 and 52 053 28. IMPORTANT -
Please check numbers on carburetor before ordering and go here to identify
the correct part for any particular carburetor:
Kohler
Carburetor Reference Manual. If there's no numbers anywhere on the
carburetor body, then it's definitely an aftermarket Chinese-made carburetor.
Because Carter, Kohler and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on the flange
of all their carburetors.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 235415-S. $19.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 235415-S. $36.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Speed Air/Fuel Mixture
Needle Adjustment Screw. Fits certain Carter or Kohler #28, #30 carburetors
used on Kohler K-series and early Magnum single cylinder engine models K321,
K341 and K361. 3-3/8" overall length. Has two tiny holes midway on the stem
(this is important so the engine will idle correctly) and one hole on lower
stem. Lower hole enlarged so engine will start quicker (when throttle is
in idle position), idle better, and idle down upon deceleration without stalling.
There's no need to do this on adjusters with two lower holes. Designed
specifically for Kohler carburetors with following numbers stamped on mounting
flange: 4174S (Carter), 45 053 08, 45 053 12, 45 053 20, 45 053 26, 45 053
68, 45 053 70, 45 053 76, 45 053 77 and 47 053 11. IMPORTANT - Please check
numbers on carburetor before ordering and go here to identify the correct
part for any particular carburetor:
Kohler
Carburetor Reference Manual. If there's no numbers anywhere on the
carburetor body, then it's definitely an aftermarket Chinese-made carburetor.
Because Carter, Kohler and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on the flange
of all their carburetors.
-
Used and in excellent condition or New Old Stock (NOS). Discontinued from
Kohler. Replaces Kohler part's # 45 103 01-S and 45 103 02-S. $16.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
High Speed Air/Fuel Mixture
Needle Adjustment Screw. Fits certain Carter #30 carburetors used on certain
Kohler engine models K321, and Kohler #26, 1.07" throttle bore carburetors
used on Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582. 3-3/8" overall length.
Each has no tiny holes midway on the stem (this is important so the engine
will idle correctly) and one lower hole on stem. Lower hole enlarged so engine
will start quicker (when throttle is in idle position), idle better, and
idle down upon deceleration without stalling. There's no need to do this
on adjusters with two lower holes. Designed specifically for certain Carter
and Kohler carburetors with following numbers stamped on mounting flange:
A236636 (Carter #30), 47 053 03, 47 053 09, 47 053 15, 47 053 16, 47 053
17, 47 053 20, 47 053 30, 47 053 41, 47 053 63 and 47 053 78. IMPORTANT -
Please check numbers on carburetor before ordering and go here to identify
the correct part for any particular carburetor:
Kohler
Carburetor Reference Manual. But if there's no numbers stamped anywhere
on the carburetor body, then it is definitely an aftermarket Chinese-made
carburetor. Because Carter, Kohler and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number
on their carburetors.
-
Used and in excellent condition. 15º angled tip; listed for Kohler
engine models K241 w/specification # 46743, K482, K532, K582 w/specification
#'s 36224 and 36231. Discontinued OEM Kohler part # 47 103 01-S.
$18.60 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
-
Used and in excellent condition. 30º angled tip; listed for Carter
#30 carburetor A236636 used on Kohler engine models K321 and K341 installed
in Cub Cadet models 147, 149 and 169; also listed for K582 engines
w/specification #'s 36202-36394, except above
È. Discontinued OEM Kohler part #'s
237489-S, 48 103 01-S. $23.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
(When available.)
Quality-Made High Speed Steel Spiral Drill Bit.
Use this to enlarge the lower hole (orifice) on high speed needle air/fuel
adjuster screws in Carter or Kohler #26, #28 and #30 carburetors to create
more suction through the tube for the fuel so engine will start quicker (when
throttle is in idle position), idle better, and idle down upon deceleration
without stalling. No need to use this on adjusters with two lower holes.
Useful for yard and garden engines, and competition pulling engines. Size:
1/32" diameter x 1-3/8" length. NOTE: Carefully enlarge the hole
by hand with drill bit clamped in a
mini micro pin vise hand drill chuck. Be careful when handling
any tiny drill bit because they can break easily. After enlarging hole, use
150± PSI compressed air to clear out any metal cuttings from inside
the adjuster tube. An ingenious, thoroughly researched and innovative concept
by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this.
Return To Previous Paragraph or Section
-
1/32" drill bit only. $1.60 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
 Welch Plugs for Various Small Engine Carburetors.
Concave/dish-shaped. Each expands .002"-.003" larger in diameter when installed
and flattened out in counterbore hole. No sealant required. By the way
- on the Carter and Kohler #26, #28 and #30 carburetors, the smaller plug
just above the idle fuel adjusting needle does not need to be replaced for
cleaning of the idle fuel passageway, and there is no replacement for this
plug.
-
3/8" Size (.374" Diameter) Aluminum Welch Plug. Fits Carter and Kohler #26,
#28 and #30 carburetors, and Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors, and may
fit other small engine carburetors. OEM Walbro part # 88-180-8. $1.50
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
7/16" Size (.4374" Diameter) Aluminum Welch Plug. Fits Kohler Command single
cylinder engine carburetors, Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh, and may fit
other carburetors. Replaces Tecumseh part # 630748. OEM Walbro part # 88-55-8.
$1.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Carburetor Mounting
Screws/Bolts w/Slotted Head and Flat Washers. Fits Kohler engine models K141,
K160/K161 and K181/M8 with Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22, or Walbro
WHL #36, #44 carburetor. NOTE: Use small slotted screwdriver to start
screws in threaded holes. Size: 1/4-20 UNC x 3/4" thread length.
-
Fabricated A-1 Miller part. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part
# X-140-1-S. $4.00/two, plus shipping & handling.
Carburetor Mounting Screws/Bolts
w/Slotted Head and Flat Washers. Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12,
K330/K331, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 with Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30,
or Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetor. NOTE: Use small slotted screwdriver
to start screws in threaded holes. Size: 5/16-18 UNC x 1" thread length.
-
Fabricated A-1 Miller part. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part
# X-770-1-S. $4.00/two, plus shipping & handling.
Carburetor Mounting Stud Kits
with Serrated Flange Nuts. Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12,
K330/K331, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 with Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30,
or Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetor. NOTE: Apply
medium strength liquid threadlocker on threads of studs
to secure them in block (or OHV head). 5/16-18 UNC thread size. Fabricated
A-1 Miller parts.
-
Kit with two 1-1/4" length studs and nuts. Use with gasket. $5.00
per kit, plus shipping & handling.
-
Kit with two 2-1/4" length studs and nuts. Use with 1" aluminum carburetor
spacer. $5.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
|

A worn loose throttle shaft is the
#1 cause of most engines wearing out and burning oil prematurely. If a carburetor
has a worn throttle shaft, this will create a vacuum leak and the engine
will idle poorly, if at all at times. With a worn throttle shaft, the engine
will draw in dusty and dirty outside air through the throttle shaft and
carburetor body, causing increased wear to the throttle shaft and possibly
carburetor body, intake valve face/seat and score the cylinder wall, and
engine will eventually burn oil, blow blue smoke out the exhaust and lose
power. More than .010" of play is considered too much for throttle shaft
wear. The most accurate way to check for the amount of wear is with a
dial indicator. Plus, at normal governed operating speed
(3,600 RPM), the extra incoming air will cause the engine to run lean on
fuel (lean out the air/fuel mixture), which will overheat the combustion
chamber and cause the cylinder head to warp, resulting in a blown head gasket,
and the piston and rings to wear prematurely, eventually resulting in severe
engine wear, excessive oil burning and loss of power.
Furthermore, all Carter or Kohler and Walbro carburetors didn't come with
a throttle shaft bushing installed by the factory. A new bushing (and [oiled]
foam seal; see below Ê) must be installed
when the throttle shaft is worn loose in the carburetor body, or if the throttle
shaft is severely worn thin, a new bushing along with a new throttle shaft
(and foam seal) must be installed. The oil on the foam seal traps and blocks
any dust and dirt from entering past the bushing and throttle shaft. If there's
a counterbore (recession in the carburetor body) where the throttle shaft
is, a short, flat bronze bushing can be installed, and if the original throttle
shaft isn't worn much, it can be reused. But if there's no counterbore, the
carburetor body will need to be precision aligned-bored for installation
of a bronze sleeve bushing, and chances are, a new throttle shaft will also
need to be installed. Precise machining of the carburetor body is required
for installation of the sleeve bushing. And ALL Carter and Kohler #26, #28
and #30, and the older Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors have the
counterbore. Only the newer Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64, and the Chinese-made
aftermarket carburetors don't have the counterbore. If the carburetor has
the counterbore, the throttle shaft will
need to be removed, the dirt and debris will need to be cleaned out from
the counterbore, and then the short, flat bushing can be installed. The [oiled]
foam seal will need to be installed on the throttle shaft before installing
in the carburetor body. But if there's no counterbore, the upper hole in
the carburetor body will need to be bored out in precision alignment with
the lower hole in a milling machine, and then a bronze sleeve bushing can
be installed. Along with regular maintenance, proper repair of a worn
throttle shaft is required to help an engine last a long time.
Return To Previous Paragraph or Section |
Protective Foam Rubber Dust/Dirt Seal
(reticulated polyurethane foam) for Throttle Shaft in certain
Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh, Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22;
Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30; Walbro WHL #36, #44, #52, #60, #64 carburetors,
and various other carburetors. For Kohler engine models K91, K141, K161,
K181/M8, K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K241/M16, K361, MV16, KT17, KT17II,
KT19, KT19II, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Dimensions (±): 7/32" I.D. (will
stretch over a 1/4" shaft) x 7/16" O.D. x 5/32" thick. NOTE: Apply clean
motor oil on seal to trap dust and dirt. When installed, seal is compressed
between throttle lever and carburetor body (or installed bushing) to prevent
dust and dirt from wearing throttle shaft and/or carburetor body.
Click or tap here to learn how to remove
Carter or Kohler throttle or choke plate retaining screws without breaking
them off. OEM Walbro part #'s 156-18-8, 156-24-8 or OEM Briggs &
Stratton part #'s 691321, 691869. $2.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. | [Top of Page] Return
To Previous Paragraph or Section
Protective Felt Dust/Dirt Seal. Fits Throttle Shaft in Certain Briggs &
Stratton, Tecumseh, and Kohler K482, K532 and K582 carburetors. Made of
interconnected cloth fibers. Dimensions (±): 7/32" I.D. (will stretch
over a 1/4" shaft) x 3/8" O.D. x 1/8" thick. NOTE: Seal is compressed
between spring-loaded washer on throttle shaft and carburetor body to prevent
dust and dirt from wearing throttle shaft and carburetor body. Apply clean
motor oil on seal before installing to trap dust and dirt to prevent wearing
of throttle shaft and/or upper hole in carburetor body or bushing.
Click or tap here
to learn how to remove Carter or Kohler throttle or choke plate soft brass
retaining screws without breaking them off. OEM Briggs & Stratton
part #'s 270167, 271853, 692279. $4.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
| [Top of Page] Return To Previous
Paragraph or Section
 Short,
Flat Bronze Throttle Shaft Bushing. Fits all Carter and Kohler #26, #28,
#30 and adjustable main jet Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors [with a
counterbore] that's used on Kohler K-series and early Magnum engine models
K241/M10, K301/M12, K330/K331, K321/M14, K341/M16, K361 and KT17, KT17 Series
II, KT19, KT19 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20. NOTE: All Carter
and Kohler #26, #28 and #30, and early Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors
have an 1/8" depth x 7/16" diameter counterbore to accept this short, flat
bronze bushing. If there's a [worn] rubber seal in the counterbore, this
bushing will replace it. On all Carter, Kohler and certain Walbro carburetors,
the throttle shaft is not worn 1/8" below the lever. The bushing makes contact
with this area to give the shaft a second life. All older Kohler throttle
shafts are like this. (Kohler was thinking ahead with this design.) To install
the bushing, thoroughly clean out the counterbore, and place the bushing
on a 1/4" x 1" length bolt, and use a small hammer to drive the bushing into
the counterbore. The bushing should have a tight fit, so thread lock is not
required. Apply clean motor oil on throttle shaft before installing for smooth
throttle operation and less wear to shaft, bushing or carburetor body.
Dimensions: 1/4" I.D. x 7/16" O.D. x 1/8" height.
Click or tap here to learn how to remove
Carter or Kohler throttle or choke plate retaining screws without breaking
them off. [Return to Previous
Section]
-
High quality aftermarket. Precision-made in the USA of compressed sintered
bronze. Long-lasting and porous (retains oil) material. Replaces Kohler part
# 25 158 02-S. $4.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 25 158 02-S. $12.40 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
A-1 Miller's Installation Service: Install this throttle shaft bushing in
your carburetor. $25.00 each for parts (new bushing and screws) and
labor, plus return shipping & handling. Please
contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in this repair service.
An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this
service.
Installation
Instructions: The above È bushing
makes contact with the upper 1/8" unworn part of the throttle shaft. The
original throttle shaft can be reused with the bushing if it isn't severely
worn or damaged. To install the bushing, first of all, to avoid breaking
off the soft OEM brass throttle (or choke) plate retaining screws, use a
Dremel or equivalent small rotary grinder chucked with
either an 1/8" high speed steel
end mill or a
chainsaw sharpening stone to grind away the flared end
of the screws, then the screws can be easily removed without breaking off.
But if you didn't read this information beforehand, and the screw(s) broke
off, they can be successfully
drilled out with the throttle (or choke) shaft clamped in a machine vise
fastened to the table of a milling machine, use a 3/16"
center drill bit (and possibly a large magnifying glass
for precision to guarantee dead center-drilling of the screw), then use a
drill press with a 5/64" drill bit to finish drilling out the screw. And
then use a 3-48 UNC hand tap to straighten the threads in the shaft.
Clean out the counterbore of the carburetor body, and to align the bushing
perpendicular with the counterbore, slide the bushing on a 1/4" or 6mm screw
or bolt, and insert the screw or bolt in the throttle shaft hole, and use
small hammer or bench vise to tap- or press-in the bushing, and then reinstall
the shaft. If the bushing fits somewhat loose in the counterbore, lightly
tap the sides of the counterbore with a hammer to make the counterbore slightly
oblong or egg-shaped. And do not reuse the OEM soft brass throttle or
choke plate retaining screws! Because being the threads are already
"stretched" from being previous installed, they could break off while being
tightened or possibly loosen and dislodge later, which can damage the valves
or piston. If the screws loosen or become dislodged, the engine will not
idle down.
Additional Note: Usually the short, flat bronze bushing will snug
up a worn throttle shaft. With oil for lubrication, the bushing and shaft
should last a long time. However, the newer Walbro and the Chinese-made
carburetors have no counterbore for the bushing, and sometimes in these
carburetors, especially the Walbro, the [upper] throttle shaft hole will
wear oblong. Sometimes the throttle shaft will wear, too. When the hole wears
oblong, just installing a new shaft will not fix the problem. To repair a
worn, oblong hole, it must be precision-bored precisely aligned with the
[unworn] lower hole, and a bronze sleeve bushing would need to be installed
along with a new throttle shaft. On other makes of carburetors, if the original
shaft is worn and a new throttle shaft isn't available, then a new throttle
shaft would need to be machined/fabricated. The throttle lever can be reused
and welded to the new machined/fabricated shaft. And if necessary, a slightly
oversized throttle shaft can be installed instead of the original diameter
shaft. I can do all of these things for $50.00± each for parts
and labor, plus return shipping & handling.
A-1 Miller's Repair Service - If the throttle shaft is worn loose
in a Walbro or an aftermarket Chinese-made carburetor, I can repair these,
too. Work includes: Precision align-bore throttle shaft hole in carburetor
body for installation of a bronze sleeve bushing. If the original throttle
shaft is worn, this will need to be replaced as well. The price is
$35.00 for labor to bore the carburetor body and $15.00 or
$20.00 for the new throttle shaft, depending on the type of throttle
lever, plus $9.00 for Priority Mail return shipping.
 Thin-Wall Bronze Sleeve Bushing for Throttle Shaft in the
non-adjustable main jet Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64, and Chinese-made carburetors
that have no counterbore for the short, flat bronze bushing. This bushing
can also be used in the Carter or Kohler #26, #28 or #30 carburetors with
a worn/enlarged counterbore for the short bronze bushing. Not available from
Kohler. Precision-made in the USA of compressed sintered bronze. Dimensions:
1/4" I.D. x .313" O.D. x 3/4" length. IMPORTANT NOTE: The upper throttle
shaft hole must be precision-bored exactly to .3125" (5/16") in perfect
center-alignment with the lower hole for installation of this sleeve bushing.
The carburetor body will need to be clamped in a machine vise fastened on
the table of a milling machine, aligned, and precision-drilled so the throttle
shaft will rotate without binding after installation of the bushing. A drill
press will not be accurate at all. If a drill press is used, the carburetor
body could be ruined and rendered useless. Apply clean lubricating oil on
throttle shaft before installing for smooth throttle operation and less wear
to shaft and bushing. Not to be used in the Kohler-made carburetors for Kohler
engine models K482, K532 or K582. An innovative concept by Brian Miller,
because nobody else advertise the use of this part or this service.
-
Aftermarket; not available from Kohler. Precision-made in the USA of compressed
sintered bronze. Very hard material. $3.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
A-1 Miller's Repair Service: Bore upper throttle shaft hole, install new
bronze sleeve bushing. $45.00 labor and bushing + price of new throttle
shaft with new screws/lock washers (if needed), plus return shipping &
handling. An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody
else advertise this repair service .
Throttle and Choke Plate Retaining
Screws | IMPORTANT: To avoid breaking off the soft OEM brass throttle
or choke plate retaining screws, use a
Dremel or equivalent small rotary grinder chucked with
either a
chainsaw sharpening stone or an 1/8" high speed steel
end mill to grind away the flared end of the screws, then
the screws can be removed without breaking. If the screws break off, they
can be successfully drilled
out. And do not reuse the OEM soft brass throttle or choke plate retaining
screws! They can break off while being tightened or possibly loosen and dislodge
later, which can damage the valves or piston, and the engine will not idle
down. TIP: When installing a screw to keep it from falling out of
the screwdriver, for ordinary steel screws, temporarily magnetize the screwdriver
by rubbing a magnet along the length of the shank, or for stainless steel
screws, apply a dab of grease in the head of the
screw.[Return To Previous Paragraph
or Section]
3-48 UNC screws and split lock
washers (liquid threadlocker not required) to replace throttle or choke plate
retaining screws in Carter and Kohler #26, #28 and #30 carburetors originally
installed on Kohler K-series engines. Also fits various other small engine
carburetors. No need to use liquid threadlocker. Specifications: .095" outside
thread diameter; grade 18-8 stainless steel; tensile strength: 120,000 PSI.
-
3-48 UNC x 1/4" thread length for choke or stock thickness throttle shafts.
Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # 234209-S. $1.00 per
pair, plus shipping & handling.
-
3-48 UNC x 3/16" thread length for high performance throttle shaft that's
been machined thin for increased airflow. $2.00 per pair, plus shipping
& handling.
4-40 UNC screws and split lock
washers (liquid threadlocker not required) to replace throttle or choke plate
retaining screws in Walbro WHL #52, #60 or #64 carburetors originally installed
on Kohler Magnum engines, and Kohler-replicated Chinese-made carburetors.
Also fits various other small engine carburetors. Can also be used as an
oversize replacement when 3-48 threads strip out. (Use 4-40 tap listed below
if this happens.) Specifications: .108" outside thread diameter; grade 18-8
stainless steel; tensile strength: 120,000 PSI.
-
4-40 UNC x 1/4" thread length stainless steel for stock-thickness throttle
shaft. Replaces Kohler part # 25 086 27-S. $1.00 per pair, plus shipping
& handling.
-
4-40 UNC x 3/16" thread length stainless steel for high performance throttle
shaft that's been machined thin for increased airflow. $2.00 per pair,
plus shipping & handling.
-
4-40 UNC x 3/16" thread length. Replaces Walbro part # 96-263-7. OEM Kohler
part # 25 086 27-S. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
5-44 UNF screws and split lock
washers (liquid threadlocker not required). Use as an oversize replacement
when 4-40 threads strip out. (Use 5-44 tap listed below if this happens.)
Specifications: .118" outside thread diameter; tensile strength: 74,000 PSI.
.50¢ per pair, plus shipping & handling.
Quality-Made High Speed Steel Taper Hand Taps. Taper taps allow
for the tip to be inserted deeper in the hole for self-aligning, easier cutting
of threads and less chance of breaking off tap in the hole.
-
3-48 UNC size. Use to repair
damaged OEM threads in Carter or Kohler throttle and choke shafts.
$8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
4-40 UNC size. Use for newer OEM Walbro or for cutting oversize threads in
Carter or Kohler throttle and choke shafts when 3-48 threads strip out.
$8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
5-44 UNF size. Use for cutting oversize threads in throttle and choke shafts
when 4-40 threads strip out. $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
 Universal High Quality Foot/Gas Pedal Kit. Can be used
on Competition Pulling Tractors, Go-Karts, Recreational Vehicles, etc. Kit
includes 48" (commonly used) sliding stranded inner cable x 43" metal conduit
housing and housing clamp. $46.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Heavy Duty High Quality Replacement Throttle Control Cable Assemblies
for Universal Foot/Gas Throttle Pedal Assembly.
-
48" inner stranded wire cable x 43" metal conduit housing. $5.00 each,
plus shipping & handling.
-
53" inner stranded wire cable x 48" metal conduit housing. $5.00 each,
plus shipping & handling.
-
60" inner stranded wire cable x 55" metal conduit housing. $5.00 each,
plus shipping & handling.
-
100" inner stranded wire cable x 90" metal conduit housing. $7.50
each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Throttle Shaft
w/Integrated Lever. Fits all Kohler K-series engine models K90/K91, K141,
K160/K161 and K181 with a Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20 or #22 carburetor,
and Magnum engine model M8 with a Walbro WHL #36 or #44 carburetor. Includes
screws and lock washers. NOTE: Apply clean lubricating oil on shaft before
installing for smooth throttle operation and less wear to shaft, bushing
and/or carburetor body.
Click
or tap here to learn how to remove Carter or Kohler throttle or choke plate
retaining screws without breaking them off. OEM Kohler part #
41 144 18-S. $18.05 each, plus shipping & handling. |
Anodized Steel
Choke Shaft w/Integrated Lever. Fits all Kohler K-series engine models K141,
K160/K161 and K181 with a Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20 or #22 carburetor,
and Magnum engine model M8 with a Walbro WHL #36 or #44 carburetor. Includes
screws and lock washers. NOTE: Apply clean lubricating oil on shaft before
installing for smooth operation and less wear to shaft and/or carburetor
body.
Click
or tap here to learn how to remove Carter or Kohler throttle or choke plate
retaining screws without breaking them off. High Quality Aftermarket.
Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # 41 090 20-S. $20.00
each, plus shipping & handling. |
High quality aftermarket throttle shafts w/integrated lever.
Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K330/K331, K321/M14, K341/M16
and K361. These are the old-style throttle shafts with the 11/16" screw hole
spacing for the Carter and Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors that is no longer
available from Kohler. Each come with screws and split lock washers (liquid
threadlocker not required). These throttle shafts can also be used in the
Walbro #52, #60 or #64 carburetors, with the 1.07" or 1.2" throttle plates
listed below. Each have a small hole for the throttle stabilizer spring or
a throttle return spring for competition pulling. NOTE: Being the throttle
lever is longer on the aftermarket throttle shaft, it may need to be cut
off slightly to clear the backside of the air cleaner base. And apply clean
lubricating oil on shaft before installing for smooth throttle operation
and less wear to shaft, bushing and/or carburetor body.
Click or tap here to learn how to remove
Carter or Kohler throttle or choke plate retaining screws without breaking
them off.
When ordering, please specify which
throttle shaft you need; the one with a 3/16" hole in the lever or with an
integrated 1/4" ball on the lever.
High quality aftermarket 1/4"
diameter anodized steel throttle shaft with 11/16" throttle plate screw hole
spacing, 3/16" hole in lever for throttle linkage and small hole in lever
for throttle stabilizer spring. Fits OEM Carter and Kohler #26, #28 and #30,
and Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors. When replacing a worn throttle
shaft in a Walbro #52 (1.07") carburetor with this throttle shaft, must use
the 1.07" aftermarket throttle plate listed below. Or when replacing a worn
throttle shaft in a Walbro #60 or #64 (1.2") carburetor with this throttle
shaft, oblong the holes in the OEM Walbro throttle plate to match the screw
holes in this shaft. Includes screws and lock washers. Includes screws and
lock washers. Replaces discontinued OEM Kohler part # 47 144 35-S.
$15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High quality aftermarket 1/4" diameter anodized steel throttle shaft with
11/16" throttle plate screw hole spacing, integrated 1/4" ball on lever for
throttle linkage and small hole in lever for throttle stabilizer spring.
Fits OEM Carter and Kohler #26, #28 and #30, and Walbro WHG #52, #60 and
#64 carburetors. Replaces OEM Kohler #26, #28 and #30 "Quiet Line" carburetor
throttle shafts. When replacing a worn throttle shaft in a Walbro #52 (1.07")
carburetor with this throttle shaft, must use the 1.07" aftermarket throttle
plate listed below. Or when replacing a worn throttle shaft in a Walbro #60
or #64 (1.2") carburetor with this throttle shaft, oblong the holes in the
OEM Walbro throttle plate to match the screw holes in this shaft. Includes
screws and lock washers. $20.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
OEM Kohler 1/4" diameter anodized steel throttle shaft with 3/4" screw hole
spacing, 3/16" hole in lever for throttle linkage and small hole in lever
for throttle stabilizer spring. Made specifically for Walbro WHG #60 or #64
carburetors with a 1.2" throttle bore. Includes screws and split lock washers
(liquid threadlocker not required). When replacing a worn throttle shaft
in a Walbro #60 or #64 carburetor with an aftermarket throttle shaft (above),
use the 1.2" aftermarket throttle plate listed below. OEM Kohler part # 47
144 36-S. $26.05 each, plus shipping & handling.
Throttle Shaft Conversion Kits
to Convert Carter Model N #26, #28 or #30 Carburetor with a Broken or Cracked
Old-Style Clamp-On Cast Aluminum Throttle Lever Adapter and Short Throttle
Shaft to the New-Style One-Piece Kohler-Type Throttle Shaft with Integrated
Lever and Idle Speed Screw/Compression Spring in the Carburetor Body.
-
Conversion Kit #1. Includes: High quality aftermarket anodized steel throttle
shaft with 3/16" hole in lever (no integrated ball), throttle plate retaining
screws, idle speed screw and compression spring. Reuse OEM Carter throttle
plate. $18.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Conversion Kit #2. Includes: High quality aftermarket anodized steel throttle
shaft with integrated 1/4" ball on lever, throttle plate retaining screws,
idle speed screw and compression spring. Reuse OEM Carter throttle plate.
$23.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
To Perform the Conversion:
-
Remove the original throttle shaft. Click
or tap here to learn how to remove Carter or Kohler throttle or choke plate
retaining screws without breaking them off.
-
Cut or grind off the throttle stop pin flush with the carburetor body. Do
attempt to break off the pin as this could also break off part of the cast
aluminum carburetor body, which must be used as a throttle stop in the wide
open position.
-
Drill a 9/64" hole through the carburetor body between the throttle shaft
and high speed adjuster in alignment with the throttle lever for installation
of the idle speed adjustment screw.
-
Cut 8-32 UNC threads through the drilled hole.
-
Install the supplied 8-32 UNC x 1" length screw/compression spring in the
threaded hole.
-
If the throttle shaft hole is worn and the new throttle shaft is "wobbly"
or loose, a new flat bronze bushing will
need to be installed in the counterbore.
-
Install the new-style throttle shaft and reinstall the original throttle
plate.
|
1.07" High Quality
Aftermarket Anodized Steel Throttle Plate. Fits Carter and Kohler #26 and
Chinese-made #26 aftermarket carburetors with 1.07" throttle bore originally
used on Kohler engine models K241, K301, K330/K331, KT17, KT17 Series II,
KT19, KT19 Series II, K482 and K532. To be used with OEM Carter, Kohler or
aftermarket throttle shafts listed above
È with 11/16" screw hole spacing. Replaces
discontinued Kohler part # 236668-S.
-
$6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
1.17" High Quality Aftermarket
Anodized Steel Throttle Plate. Fits [early] Carter #28 and Chinese-made #30
aftermarket carburetors with 1.17" throttle bore, but will also work in the
[later] Carter and Kohler #30 carburetors with 1.2" throttle bore used on
Kohler K-series engine models K321, K341 and K582. Designed to be used with
OEM Carter, Kohler or aftermarket throttle shafts listed above
È with 11/16" screw hole spacing. No
Carter or Kohler part number available.
-
$6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
1.2" OEM Brass Throttle Plates.
Designed to fit Walbro HDA, WHG, LMH #60 and #64 carburetors with 1.2" throttle
bore. The Walbro WHG #60 and #64 carburetors are originally used on the Kohler
Magnum engine models M14 and M16. When used in a Carter or Kohler #30 carburetor,
elongate the holes to match the screw holes in the OEM throttle shaft, or
use 47 144 36-S throttle shaft listed above
È with 3/4" screw hole spacing.
-
OEM Walbro part # 34-18-1. $7.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 47 146 10-S. (Same as above
È, made by Walbro.) $10.75 each,
plus shipping & handling.
|
Choke Shafts
w/Integrated Short Lever. Fits Kohler K-series engine models K241, K301,
K321, K341 with a Carter/Kohler #26, #28 or #30 carburetor with a
round air cleaner/filter
assembly, and certain Magnum engine models M10, M12, M14 and M16 with
a Walbro WHL #52, #60 or #64 carburetor. Includes screws and lock washers.
NOTE - The Walbro choke plate retaining screw holes will need to be elongated
or made oblong to line up with the screw holes in the aftermarket choke
shaft. And apply clean lubricating oil on shaft before installing
for smooth operation and less wear to shaft and/or carburetor body.
Click or tap here to learn how to remove
Carter or Kohler throttle or choke plate retaining screws without breaking
them off.
-
High Quality Aftermarket Anodized Steel Choke Shaft w/Integrated Lever and
Screws. Kohler part # 47 090 34-S. $20.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 47 090 34-S. $36.70 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Choke Shafts
w/Integrated Long Lever. Fits all Kohler AQS "Quiet Line" engine models K241,
K301, K321, K341, K361 with a Kohler #26 or #30 carburetor with an
oblong air cleaner/filter
assembly, and certain Magnum engine models M10, M12, M14 and M16 with
a Walbro WHL #52, #60 or #64 carburetor. Includes screws and lock washers.
NOTE - The Walbro choke plate retaining screw holes will need to be elongated
or made oblong to line up with the screw holes in the aftermarket choke
shaft. And apply clean lubricating oil on shaft before installing
for smooth operation and less wear to shaft and/or carburetor body.
Click or tap here to learn how to remove
Carter or Kohler throttle or choke plate retaining screws without breaking
them off.
-
High Quality Aftermarket Anodized Steel Choke Shaft w/Integrated Long Lever
and Screws. Replaces Kohler part # 47 090 38-S. $25.00 each, plus
shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 47 090 38-S. $36.70 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
NOTE: The detent ball and spring are only required for
hand-operation of the choke plate to keep it in the open position on stand-alone
engines, such as garden tillers, portable generators/welders, portable air
compressors, portable water pumps, etc. If choke is operated by a sliding
remote wire cable control, such as on a garden tractor, then the ball and
spring isn't required and will serve no purpose whatsoever.
1/8" Diameter Choke Shaft Friction
(Detent) Ball. Fits Carter or Kohler #13, #16, #18, #20, #22, #26, #28, #30
and Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetors.
-
OEM Walbro part # 89-13-8. .35¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Kohler part # 25 194 02-S. (Same as above
È, made by Walbro.) $1.82 each,
plus shipping & handling.
5/32" Diameter Choke Shaft Friction
(Detent) Ball. Fits Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors.
-
OEM Walbro part # 89-29-8. .35¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Kohler part # 25 194 01-S. (Same as above
È, made by Walbro.) $8.02 each,
plus shipping & handling.
1/8" Diameter x 5/16" Length
Choke Shaft Friction (Detent) Compression Spring. Fits Walbro WHL #36, #44
carburetors.
-
OEM Walbro part # 98-162-7. .60¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Kohler part # 25 089 06-S. (Same as above
È, made by Walbro.) $1.82 each,
plus shipping & handling.
1/8" Diameter x 1/2" Length
Choke Shaft Friction (Detent) Compression Spring. Fits Carter and Kohler
#26, #28 and #30 carburetors.
-
Used and in excellent condition. Discontinued from Kohler many years ago.
No Kohler part number. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
(When available.)
5/32" Diameter x 1/2" Length
Choke Shaft Friction (Detent) Compression Spring. Fits Walbro WHG #52, #60,
#64 carburetors.
-
OEM Walbro part # 98-198-7. .60¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Kohler part # 25 089 03-S. (Same as above
È, made by Walbro.) $8.02 each,
plus shipping & handling.
|
  Small
Engine Remote Fuel Primer System Kits. Safe to use and works flawlessly!
Can be used on most ordinary lawn and garden tractors, garden pulling tractors,
recreational vehicles, or virtually any small engine lawn and garden or snow
removal equipment with a choke plate in the carburetor. Primer bulb can be
installed on pedestal, dashboard, instrument panel, engine control panel,
flywheel shroud, etc. Requires 1/4" mounting hole for primer bulb assembly.
Works with Carter/Kohler (OEM and aftermarket), Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh,
Mikuni, Zenith, or virtually any carburetor with a float. Works with pump
gas, race gas, E-85 or methanol fuels. The choice of professional garden
tractor pullers everywhere! With the fuel bowl atmospheric vent opening plugged
(air passageway from inside the float bowl to outside of carburetor), then
with one or two pushes of the primer bulb with your finger, air pressure
created within the float bowl forces fuel up through the main jet and out
the nozzle, creating a slight flooding condition inside the carburetor throttle
bore, allowing a cold engine to start quick. With this setup installed, the
choke plate and shaft is not needed and can be removed. No more binding of
a cable-operated choke and/or bent choke plate, or messy and unsafe "hand
choking" of the carburetor. Being the atmospheric vent opening will be plugged,
the fuel baffle splash shield
in the Carter/Kohler carburetor is not needed with this setup and will serve
no purpose whatsoever. Kit includes: New primer bulb assembly with integrated
1/8" barbed hose fitting and serrated mounting nut, 1/8" I.D. x 3/16" O.D.
x 2' length clear vinyl hose, loop-type clamp and 1/8" diameter x 1" length
brass tube. Click or tap here
for installation instructions. An ingenious and innovative concept
by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise the universal kit for use
on various small engine equipment, lawn and garden tractors or competition
pulling tractors. NOTE: If
an engine is hard to start, even with the choke plate fully closed and tuned
correctly, then it may need the valve clearances reset and/or professional
valve job performed. The reason some older engines is hard to start is because
the valve faces, especially the intake valve, wears slightly away against
the valve seat, and this causes the clearance between the valve stem and
lifter to be lessened, which will prevent the valve(s) from fully closing
to trap adequate compression in the combustion chamber [so the engine can
start easier]. This remote fuel primer system will not help an engine start
easier if it needs a valve job. [Return
to Previous Section]
-
Fuel Primer Bulb Assembly Only. Includes serrated mounting nut. $7.00
each, plus shipping.
-
High Quality Complete Universal Fuel Primer Kit. $11.00 each, plus
shipping & handling.
-
XT Fuel Primer Kit. OEM Kohler part # 14 755 36-S. $15.50 each, plus
shipping.
|
Vented Metal Gas Caps. Replace deteriorated,
damaged or missing gas cap for safety. Fits all IH-built Cub Cadet garden
tractors with a metal fuel tank, except models with a plastic fuel tank.
Also fits larger Briggs & Stratton, Clinton, Tecumseh, Lauson, Wisconsin
and various other makes and models of small engines fuel tanks with a 1-3/4"
filler neck.
-
 1-3/4" high quality aftermarket ordinary metal gas cap w/vent
hole and paper-like sealing gasket material. $6.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
1-3/4" ordinary metal gas cap w/vent hole and paper-like gasket sealing material.
OEM Kohler part # 236655-S. $13.55 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
1-3/4" ordinary metal gas cap w/vent hole and paper-like gasket sealing material.
OEM Cub Cadet part # KH-236655. $17.89 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
1-3/4" metal safety gas cap w/vent hole and paper-like gasket sealing material.
OEM Cub Cadet part # KH-236655. $17.89 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
1-3/4" metal safety gas cap w/vent hole and neoprene rubber sealing material.
Also has fuel baffle/splash shield and foam rubber
(reticulated polyurethane foam) to absorb and prevent fuel
from spewing out of vent hole due to normal engine vibration. OEM Briggs
& Stratton part #'s 69221, 297866, 297866S, 392305, 393156, 395005.
$9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Alcohol-resistant neoprene rubber
O-ring for 1-3/4" gas caps. Provides a better seal which helps prevent dangerous
leaks, which could cause a fire. Also helps seal against rim of a slightly
damaged filler neck of gas tank to lessen chance of loss of gas when tank
is full. Pry out and install under paper-like gasket material in gas cap
for better sealing. Small cross-sectional diameter, snug-fitting in gas
cap. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
 (Added 8/17/20) Vented Gas Cap/Fuel Level Gauge w/Ribbing.
Replace deteriorated, damaged or missing gas cap for safety. Fits IH-built
Cub Cadet AQS (Quiet Line) garden tractor models 800, 1000, 1200, 1250, 1450
and 1650 with serial number 560209 and lower. 6" overall length. Fits plastic
fuel tank with 5" depth and inlet smaller than 2". OEM Cub Cadet part #
IH-61635-C3. $39.70 each, plus shipping & handling.
Vented Gas Caps/Fuel Level
Gauge w/Projected Grips. Replace deteriorated, damaged or missing gas cap
for safety. Fits IH-built Cub Cadet AQS (Quiet Line) garden tractor models
800, 1000, 1200, 1250, 1450 and 1650 with serial number 560210 and higher.
Fits plastic gas tank with a 2" inlet and 5" depth.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-109037-C2.
$24.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-109037-C2. $40.50 each, plus shipping &
handling.
Vented Gas Caps/Fuel Level Gauge
w/Projected Grips. Replace deteriorated, damaged or missing gas cap for safety.
Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682,
782, 784, 982, 984, 986, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1282, 1604, 1606, 1710, 1711,
1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1872, 1912, 1914 and 2072. Fits plastic gas
tank with a 2" inlet. 10-5/8" overall length.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Cub Cadet part # 951-0226A. $37.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Cub Cadet part # 951-0226A. $44.40 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Small Size Plastic
In-Line Fuel Filters w/metal mesh screen. Replace clogged, deteriorated or
damaged filter to prevent fuel flow problems. Each filter installs either
direction. Dimensions of each filter: 1/4" barbed fittings x 1-3/8" maximum
diameter x 1-3/4" overall length.
-
Translucent; 75
micron.
Filters out smaller objects. Use with gravity feed fuel system. Our part
# 21-10251. $3.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Red; 150
micron.
Use with vacuum, mechanical or electric fuel pump. Install before fuel pump
to lessen debris wear to poppet or reed valves. Our part # 21-6000.
$3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Large Size Plastic
In-Line Fuel Filter w/pleated paper filtering material. Replace clogged and/or
deteriorated filter to prevent fuel flow problems. For engines with gravity
feed, vacuum, mechanical or electric fuel pump. Install before fuel pump
to lessen debris wear to poppet or reed valves. Dimensions: 1/4" and 5/16"
barbed fittings x 1-1/2" maximum diameter x 4-3/8" overall length.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 25 755 22-S. $3.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 25 755 22-S. $39.59 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
  Fuel Hose Clamps
for 1/4" I.D. x 1/2" O.D. black neoprene rubber reinforced fuel hose. Necessary
when using a fuel pump in a pressurized fuel system for safety, and to prevent
a vacuum leak on the suction end.
-
Spring-Loaded Clamp. High quality aftermarket. .50¢ each, plus
shipping & handling.
-
Spring-Loaded Clamp. OEM Kohler part # 25 237 37-S. $1.30 each, plus
shipping & handling.
-
Stainless Steel Worm Gear Clamp. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
1/4" I.D. x
1/2" O.D. Braided Reinforced Black Alcohol-Resistant
Neoprene
Rubber Fuel Hose. Suitable for 100% gas, E85 or methanol fuels. Maximum burst
pressure: 15 PSI.
-
High quality aftermarket. .15¢ per inch, plus shipping &
handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 25 111 81-S. (1/4" I.D. x 39" length.) $12.00 each,
plus shipping & handling.
5/16" I.D. x 5/8" O.D. Braided Reinforced Black Alcohol-Resistant
Neoprene
Rubber Fuel Hose. Suitable for 100% gas, E85 or methanol fuels. Maximum burst
pressure: 15 PSI. .18¢ per inch, plus shipping & handling. |
Straight Hose Fittings.
Use with 1/4" I.D. fuel hose and/or with a vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel
pump. Dimensions: 1/8" NPT male threads x 1/4" barbed hose fitting. Use
plumber's thread sealing tape to guarantee a leak-proof
seal. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part #'s 277483-S, X-495-1,
and Tecumseh part # 28534.
-
Used and in excellent condition. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
(When available.)
-
New aftermarket fitting. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
45º Angled
Hose Fitting. Use with 1/4" I.D. fuel hose and/or with a
vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel pump. Use
plumber's thread sealing tape to guarantee a leak-proof
seal. Dimensions: 1/8" NPT male threads x 1/4" barbed hose fitting.
-
$3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
90º Angled
Hose Fittings. Use with 1/4" I.D. fuel hose and/or with a
vacuum-operated/pulse-type fuel pump. Use
plumber's thread sealing tape to guarantee a leak-proof
seal. Dimensions: 1/8" NPT male threads x 1/4" barbed hose fitting.
-
New high quality aftermarket steel fitting. $3.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
Used and in excellent condition steel fitting. OEM Kohler part # 25 155 02-S.
$4.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
-
New. OEM Kohler part # 25 155 02-S. $9.80 each, plus shipping &
handling.
|
Hard Rubber
Compression Sleeve for Metal Fuel Line. Replace dry-rotted or deteriorated
compression sleeve to prevent dangerous and hazardous fuel leak. 7/32" I.D.
x .255" O.D. Other parts shown in drawing to the right have been discontinued
from Kohler.
-
OEM Kohler part # 220547-S. $5.65 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Fuel Hose
Conversion/Upgrade Kit. Do away with the old-fashioned sediment bowl/fuel
filter and metal fuel line. This conversion/upgrade kit includes 1/4" I.D.
x 12" length reinforced black fuel hose, small in-line fuel filter, one new
straight 1/4" barbed fitting x 1/8" NPT male threads fitting (threads into
gas tank), one new 90º angled 1/8" NPT male threads x 1/4" barbed fitting
(threads into carburetor) and four spring-type fuel hose clamps. The fuel
hose is routed in a U-shape under carburetor. Filter is to be installed just
under fuel tank. This kit is suitable for Kohler engines with gravity feed
and the lowest part of gas tank positioned higher than the carburetor. Use
plumber's thread sealing tape on fittings to guarantee
a leak-proof seal. An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody
else advertise this kit.
-
$12.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
|
Durable Plastic In-Line Fuel Shut-Off Valve. alcohol-resistant neoprene seal.
Fits 1/4" I.D. fuel hose. No filter. Lever rotates 90º OFF/ON position.
Use for a leaky carburetor or for
long term storage,
and this part is required by certain pulling associations for safety. Our
part # 24-1036. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
Heavy Duty, All-Metal In-Line Fuel Shut-Off Valve. Alcohol-resistant. Fits
1/4" I.D. fuel hose. No filter. Lever rotates 90º OFF/ON position. Use
for a leaky carburetor or for
long term storage,
and this part is required by certain pulling associations for safety. Our
part # 24-1166. $16.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
Heavy Duty, All-Metal In-Line Fuel Shut-Off Valve. Alcohol-resistant. Fits
5/16" I.D. fuel hose. No filter. Lever rotates 90º OFF/ON position.
Use for a leaky carburetor or for
long term storage,
and this part is required by certain pulling associations for safety.
$10.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
90º angled
Thread-In Fuel Tank-Mounted Shut-Off Valve with fine mesh screen filter.
Used with metal gas tanks on various Kohler engine models CH15, CH22, CH23,
CH680, ECH730, K91, K141, K161, K181, K241, K301, K341, M8, M14 and M20.
Threads into bottom of fuel tank. Has 1/8" NPT mounting threads and fits
1/4" I.D. fuel hose. Use for a leaky carburetor or
long term storage,
and this part is required by certain pulling associations for safety. Replaces:
AMF 42879; Bolens 1703896, 1718029; Briggs & Stratton 396244, 399517,
698182; Gravely 18563; John Deere AM31850, PT8655; Kohler 220764-S; Lawn
Boy 677052; Noma 42879; Scag 48056; Snapper 2-4507, 3-4212, 24507, 34212,
7024507, 7034212; Tecumseh 27689, 27803, 28571, 29683, 430137, 430209; Toro
304-71.
-
High quality aftermarket. Has alcohol-resistant
neoprene
rubber O-ring seal. Our part # 24-1037. $6.50 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 220764-S. $27.77 each, plus shipping & handling.
Alcohol-resistant
neoprene
rubber O-ring seal for shut-off valve listed above
È. Replace dry-rotted O-ring or leather
packing which can cause leaking fuel. Dimensions: 3/16" I.D. x 5/16" O.D.
-
.25¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Alcohol-Resistant
Neoprene
Rubber Gas Tank Fuel Fitting Bushing (Grommet). Fits Cub Cadet AQS (Quiet
Line) models and Kohler Magnum engines. Replace dry-rotted, hardened and
leaking bushing/grommet. Along with either fuel fitting listed below, this
part can be used to repair (replace) the integrated fuel fitting on a plastic
fuel tank. Use oil or grease for easy installation into 9/16" hole in bottom
of plastic fuel tank. Fuel fittings and fuel shut-off valves listed below
Ê that plugs into this part. In addition
to the fitting listed below Ê, for
competition pulling only, this part can also be used as a fuel return system
in fuel tank when burning methanol or diesel fuels. Replaces: AMF 42690;
Ariens 07509300, 07511400; Bolens 1738433; Briggs Power Products 78299GS,
80269GS; Exmark 1-513645; Ferris 22151; Kohler 25 313 01-S; Lawn-Boy 104047,
708331, 46-6560; MTD 735-0149, 1738433, 935-0149, 1903198, 1902479, GW-1738433,
GW-B1738433, 581615; Murray 42690; Noma 44847; Scag 48309; Simplicity 1654930;
Snapper 12337, 74158, 7012337, 7074158; Tecumseh 33679; Toro 46-6560, 1-513645,
E513645; Wheel Horse/Toro 104047; 104047P.
-
High quality aftermarket. Our part # 7730. $2.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 25 313 01-S. $2.55 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
90º
Angle/L-Shaped Plug-In Fuel Tank Fitting w/o filter screen and w/o shut-off
valve. Fits Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" models and Kohler Magnum engines. Use
with in-line fuel filter. 1/2" fitting fastens in neoprene rubber bushing/grommet
(above È) in bottom of plastic fuel
tank. Along with the grommet listed above, this part can be used to repair
(replace) the integrated fuel fitting on a plastic fuel tank. Use oil or
grease for easy installation. 1/4" barbed hose fitting. Replaces Cub Cadet
part # IH-109042-C2 (except w/o shut-off valve); Wheel Horse 04048 (except
w/o shut-off valve and filter screen).
-
Our part # 751-3054. $3.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
90º Angled
Plug-In Fuel Tank Shut-Off Valve w/o filter screen. Fits Cub Cadet AQS (Quiet
Line) models and Kohler Magnum engines. Use with in-line fuel filter. 1/2"
fitting fastens in neoprene rubber bushing (above
È) in bottom of plastic fuel tank. Along
with the grommet listed above, this part can be used to repair (replace)
the integrated fuel fitting on a plastic fuel tank. Use oil or grease for
easy installation. 1/4" barbed hose fitting. Use for a leaky carburetor or
long term storage.
Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-109042-C2 and Kohler part # 25 462 01-S (except
w/o filter screen); Wheel Horse 104048 (except w/o filter screen).
-
Our part # 120-253. $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Alcohol resistant
neoprene
rubber O-ring seal for shut-off valve listed above
È. Replace dry-rotted O-ring which cause
leaking fuel. Dimensions: 3/16" I.D. x 5/16" O.D.
-
.25¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
|
90º Angled
Plug-In Fuel Tank Shut-Off Valve w/filter screen. Fits Briggs & Stratton,
Cub Cadet AQS (Quiet Line) models and Kohler Magnum engines. 1/2" fitting
fastens in neoprene rubber bushing (above
È) in bottom of plastic fuel tank. Along
with the grommet listed above, this part can be used to repair (replace)
the integrated fuel fitting on a plastic fuel tank. Use oil or grease for
easy installation. 1/4" barbed hose fitting. Use for a leaky carburetor or
long term storage.
Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-109042-C2; Wheel Horse 104048 (except w/filter
screen).
-
High quality aftermarket. Our part # 24-1132. $6.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
Kohler part # 25 462 01-S. $20.15 each, plus shipping & handling.
Alcohol-resistant
neoprene
rubber O-ring seal for shut-off valve listed above
È. Replace dry-rotted O-ring which cause
leaking fuel. Dimensions: 3/16" I.D. x 5/16" O.D.
-
.25¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
|
90º Angled
Plug-In Fuel Tank Shut-Off Valve w/filter screen and alcohol-resistant
neoprene
rubber O-ring seal kit. Fits Briggs & Stratton, Cub Cadet AQS (Quiet
Line) models and Kohler Magnum engines. Fuel fitting fastens in neoprene
rubber bushing, which plugs into bottom of plastic fuel tank. These parts
can be used to repair (replace) the integrated fuel fitting on a plastic
fuel tank. Use grease or oil for easy installation. Stepped 1/4" and 5/16"
barbed hose fitting. Use for a leaky carburetor or
long term storage.
Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-109042-C2; Wheel Horse 104048 (except w/filter
screen).
-
High quality aftermarket. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Briggs & Stratton part # 192980GS. $16.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
|
1/8" NPT x 1/8"
NPT x 3/4" length [close] steel pipe connector. Use to fasten fuel shut-off
/filter/sediment bowl assembly (listed below
Ê) to fuel tank. Use
plumber's thread sealing tape to guarantee a leak-proof
seal.
-
High quality aftermarket. $1.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 25 136 23-S. $1.30 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Fuel
Shut-Off/Filter/Sediment Bowl Assembly. Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models
70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127,
147, and replacement for many other makes and models of older lawn and garden
engines. Filters out small particles of debris and dirt from fuel and separates
water from gas. Threads into bottom of fuel tank. Use for a leaky carburetor
or long term storage,
and this part is required by certain pulling associations for safety. Use
plumber's thread sealing tape to guarantee a leak-proof
seal. Dimensions - overall height: 3"; maximum width (not including shut-off
valve): 1-3/4"; thread fittings: inlet (top) and outlet (side) are both 1/8"
NPT. Use fuel hose conversion/upgrade kit (above
È) instead if you wish. Complete assembly
discontinued from Kohler. Replaces: Kohler A-210101; Briggs & Stratton
293964, 295913, 295977, 296005, 393169, 690612; Clinton 293-32-500, 293-32-5;
Gravely 010313; John Deere PT4337; Tecumseh 24449, 24459, 32164, 32439, 32984,
32984A, 34279, 34279A, 34279B; Wisconsin LP43.
-
High quality aftermarket. Our part # 21-1009. $11.50 each, plus shipping
& handling.
|
Alcohol-resistant
neoprene
rubber O-ring seal for shut-off valve shaft in fuel shut-off/filter/sediment
bowl assembly listed above È. Replace
dry-rotted O-ring or leather packing which can cause unsafe leaking fuel.
Dimensions: 1/8" I.D. x 1/4" O.D.
-
High quality aftermarket. .25¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Replacement
glass bowl for fuel shut-off/filter/sediment bowl assembly listed above
È. Dimensions: 1-1/2" maximum width
x 1-1/8" height. Replaces: Briggs & Stratton # 298683; John Deere # PT4271.
-
High quality aftermarket. $3.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 210467-S. $17.15 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Gasket
(Alcohol-Resistant Neoprene Rubber Seal) for fuel shut-off/filter/sediment
bowl assembly listed above È. Dimensions:
1-1/4" I.D. x 1-1/2" O.D. x .060" thickness.
-
High quality aftermarket. Our part # 14-1097. $1.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 210468-S. $3.40 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Fine Brass Mesh
Screen Fuel Filter/Strainer for Fuel Sediment Bowl Assembly listed above
È. 1-1/4" O.D.
-
OEM Kohler part # 210479-S. $4.60 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Wingnuts, Pleated Air Filters and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters
-
If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services
listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises
| 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. When
you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with
the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to the
public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate our business to other property with a bigger and better
shop so we can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
|
TIP: When installing a screw to keep it from falling out
of the screwdriver, for ordinary steel screws, temporarily magnetize the
screwdriver by rubbing a magnet along the length of the shank, or for stainless
steel screws, apply a dab of grease in the head of the screw.
Air Cleaner/Filter Base Mounting
Screws w/split lock washers. Use to fasten air cleaner base to Carter Model
N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 and Walbro WHL #36 and #44 carburetors. Dimensions:
8-32 UNC x 3/8" thread length. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler
part # 25 086 99-S.
-
Phillips Head. High quality aftermarket. Made of hardened zinc-plated steel.
$1.50 for three, plus shipping & handling.
-
Hex Socket (Allen) Head Cap Screw. Makes for easier installation of screws.
$3.00 for three, plus shipping & handling.
Air Cleaner/Filter Base Mounting
Screws w/split lock washers. Use to fasten air cleaner base to Carter or
Kohler #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors. Dimensions:
10-32 UNF x 3/8" thread length.
-
Phillips Head. High quality aftermarket. Made of hardened zinc-plated steel.
$1.50 for three, plus shipping & handling.
-
Hex Socket (Allen) Head Cap Screw. Makes for easier installation of screws.
$3.00 for three, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # X-167-2-S. $2.10 each, plus shipping & handling.
Air Cleaner/Filter Base Mounting
Screw w/split lock washer. 10-32 UNF x 3/4" thread length Phillips head screw
with split lock washer. Use when air cleaner/filter base mounting holes located
at the 12:00, 8:00 and 4:00 position strip out in Kohler AQS (Quiet Line)
#26 and #30 carburetors. Stripped-out screw holes can be drilled deeper with
a 11/64" drill bit, then deeper threads can be cut with a 10-32 UNF hand
tap (listed below) for these longer screws. No need to install Heli-Coil
inserts or replace carburetor. Screw made of hardened zinc-plated steel.
An innovative concept by Brian Miller. .25¢ each, plus
shipping & handling.
11/64" High Speed Steel Drill
Bit for drilling deeper [stripped-out] air cleaner base mounting screw holes
in Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) #26 and #30 carburetors so longer screws (above)
can be used. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
11/64" High Speed Steel Drill
Bit for drilling deeper [stripped-out] air cleaner base mounting screw holes
in Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) #26 and #30 carburetors so longer screws (above)
can be used. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Quality-Made High Speed Steel Plug Hand Taps -
8-32 UNC size. For cutting new
threads for the idle speed screw/spring in the old-style Carter #26, #28
or #30 carburetor body with the cast aluminum clamp-on throttle lever adapter
to the new-style one-piece throttle shaft with the integrated lever. Can
also be used for rethreading screw holes in the choke flange of Carter Model
N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 or Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetors for mounting
of air cleaner/filter base. $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
10-32 UNF size. For rethreading
or cutting deeper threads in the choke flange of Carter or Kohler #26, #28,
#30 and Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors for mounting of air cleaner/filter
base. $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
Each wingnut
listed below recommended for side-mounted air cleaner covers or battery hold-down
studs. Do not use on top-mounted air cleaner covers due to water from washing
off engine or rain water that may seep into intake. 1/4-20 UNC threads. Replaces
Kohler part #'s X-276-7 and 25 100 15-S.
-
Plain Heavy Gauge Stamped Steel Wingnut. .25¢ each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
Bright Cadmium-Plated Aluminum Wingnut with Self-Locking Nylon Insert.
$1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Heavy Gauge Stamped Steel Wingnuts
with Adhered Rubber Seal. Recommended for top-mounted air cleaner covers
to prevent water from washing off engine or rain water seeping into intake.
Also, rubber seal prevents wingnut from loosening. 1/4-20 UNC threads.
-
High quality aftermarket. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part #'s X-276-7 and 25 100 15-S. $3.16 each, plus shipping
& handling.
|
 Pleated Air Filter Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters.
Fits certain Kohler K-series engine models K91, K141, K161 and K181.
Non-restricting flame retardant filtering material. Performance engineered
for increased breathing. Air filter: Kohler 230840-S; Cub Cadet 385163R2;
Clinton 002-0233-00; Gravely 20299; John Deere AM31034; Massey 1035-991-M1;
Tecumseh 30804. Foam Wrap/Prefilter: Kohler 234870-S; John Deere AM31034;
Massey Ferguson 1035-991. Air filter element dimensions (±): 4-3/8"
O.D. x 3" I.D. x 1-1/2" overall height.
-
High quality aftermarket air filter. $8.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
High quality aftermarket foam wrap/prefilter. $4.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
OEM Kohler air filter. $22.40 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler foam wrap/prefilter. $7.55 each, plus shipping & handling..
NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/prefilter, use
electrical contact cleaner,
brake parts cleaner,
cleaning solvent or
paint thinner (these leave no oily residue) and 150±
PSI compressed air, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not add oil in an attempt
to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because some of the oil
could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is running, partially
clogging it. |
 Pleated Air Filters and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters. Fits
certain Kohler K-series engine model K181. Non-restricting flame retardant
filtering material. Performance engineered for increased breathing. Air filter:
Kohler 231847-S; Cub Cadet 548436R1; Gravely 15373; John Deere AM30800; Tecumseh
31925; Onan 140-1188, 140-188; Rol Air 431. Foam Wrap/Prefilter: Kohler 234869-S
(K-series), 41 083 04-S (Magnum). Air filter element dimensions (±):
4-3/8" O.D. x 3" I.D. x 2-5/16" overall height.
-
High quality aftermarket air filter. $10.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
High quality aftermarket foam wrap/prefilter. $4.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
OEM Kohler air filter. $12.05 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler foam wrap/prefilter. $7.55 each, plus shipping & handling.
NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/prefilter, use
electrical contact cleaner,
brake parts cleaner,
cleaning solvent or
paint thinner (these leave no oily residue) and 150±
psi compressed air, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not add oil in an attempt
to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because some of the oil
could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is running, partially
clogging it. |
 Pleated Air Filter Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters.
Fits various Kohler engine models K141, K161, K181/M8, K241/M10, K301/M12
and K321/M14 with the short
round metal air cleaner/filter assembly. Non-restricting flame retardant
filtering material. Performance engineered for increased breathing. Air filter:
Kohler 235116-S; Cub Cadet 385168R2. Foam Wrap/Prefilter: Kohler 237421-S.
Air filter element dimensions (±): 6" O.D. x 4-11/16" I.D. x 1-7/8"
overall height.
-
High quality aftermarket air filter. $10.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
High quality aftermarket foam wrap/prefilter. $3.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
OEM Kohler air filter. $10.60 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler foam wrap/prefilter. $4.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/prefilter, use
electrical contact cleaner,
brake parts cleaner,
cleaning solvent or
paint thinner (these leave no oily residue) and 150±
psi compressed air, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not add oil in an attempt
to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because some of the oil
could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is running, partially
clogging it. |
 Pleated Air Filter Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters.
Fits certain Kohler and Magnum engine models K241, K301, K321, K341, CH11-15,
KT17, KT19, and M18-20 engines with the
AQS (Quiet Line) oblong-shaped
metal air cleaner/filter assembly. Fits Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) series
engines in Cub Cadet models 680, 1000, 1050, 1200, 1204, 1211, 1250, 1282,
1450 and 1650. Non-restricting flame retardant filtering material. Performance
engineered for increased breathing. Air filter: Kohler 47 083 01-S; Cub Cadet
117210-C1, 759-3547, 959-3547; Gravely 032494, John Deere M83646, Lesco 012596.
Foam Wrap/Prefilter: Kohler 52 083 01-S. Air filter element dimensions
(±): 7" O.D. x 5-1/2" I.D. x 1-3/4" overall height.
-
High quality aftermarket air filter. $11.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
High quality aftermarket foam wrap/prefilter. $3.50 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
OEM Kohler air filter. $17.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler foam wrap/prefilter. $4.55 each, plus shipping & handling.
NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/prefilter, use
electrical contact cleaner,
brake parts cleaner,
cleaning solvent or
paint thinner (these leave no oily residue) and 150±
psi compressed air, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not add oil in an attempt
to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because some of the oil
could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is running, partially
clogging it. |
 Pleated Air Filter Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters.
Fits Kohler engine models K341, CH18-25, CV18-22, KT17 Series II, KT19 Series
II and M18-20; for 17 thru 22hp engines with the
AQS (Quiet Line) oblong-shaped
metal air cleaner/filter assembly. Fits Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) series
engines. Non-restricting flame retardant filtering material. Performance
engineered for increased breathing. Air filter: Kohler 47 083 03-S; John
Deere M47494 (fits JD models 200, 210, 212, 214, 216, 300, 312, 314, 316,
400); Woods 71803. Foam Wrap/Prefilter: Kohler 41 083 04-S. Air filter
element dimensions (±): 7" O.D. x 5-1/2" I.D. x 2-7/16" overall
height.
-
High quality aftermarket air filter. $9.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
High quality aftermarket foam wrap/prefilter. $4.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
OEM Kohler air filter. $9.65 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler foam wrap/prefilter. $6.65 each, plus shipping & handling.
NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/prefilter, use
electrical contact cleaner,
brake parts cleaner,
cleaning solvent or
paint thinner (these leave no oily residue) and 150±
psi compressed air, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not add oil in an attempt
to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because some of the oil
could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is running, partially
clogging it. |
 Pleated Air Filter Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters.
Fits Kohler engine models K341, CH18-25, CV18-22, KT17 Series II, KT19 Series
II and M18-20; for 17 thru 22hp engines with the
AQS (Quiet Line) oblong-shaped
metal air cleaner/filter assembly. Fits Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) series
engines. Non-restricting flame retardant filtering material. Performance
engineered for increased breathing. Air filter: Kohler 47 083 03-S; John
Deere M47494 (fits JD models 200, 210, 212, 214, 216, 300, 312, 314, 316,
400); Woods 71803. Foam Wrap/Prefilter: Kohler 41 083 04-S. Air filter
element dimensions (±): 7" O.D. x 5-1/2" I.D. x 2-7/16" overall
height.
-
High quality aftermarket air filter. $11.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
High quality aftermarket foam wrap/prefilter. $3.50 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
OEM Kohler air filter. $20.05 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler foam wrap/prefilter. $4.55 each, plus shipping & handling.
NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/prefilter, use
electrical contact cleaner,
brake parts cleaner,
cleaning solvent or
paint thinner (these leave no oily residue) and 150±
psi compressed air, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not add oil in an attempt
to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because some of the oil
could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is running, partially
clogging it. |
  Pleated Air Filter
Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters. Fits certain Kohler engine
models M8, K321/M14, K341/M16, KT17 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20
with the tall round metal air
cleaner/filter
assembly. Can also
be used on a garden pulling tractor, mini rods, hot rods, race cars, etc.
with an automotive engine. Non-restricting flame retardant filter. Performance
engineered for increased breathing. Air filter: Kohler 45 083 02-S; Cub Cadet
759-3359. Foam Wrap/Prefilter: Kohler 45 083 01-S. Air filter element
dimensions (±): 6" O.D. x 4-11/16" I.D. x 3" overall height.
-
High quality aftermarket air filter. $9.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
High quality aftermarket foam wrap/prefilter. $3.50 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
OEM Kohler air filter. $17.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler foam wrap/prefilter. $3.75 each, plus shipping & handling.
NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/prefilter, use
electrical contact cleaner,
brake parts cleaner,
cleaning solvent or
paint thinner (these leave no oily residue) and 150±
PSI compressed air, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not add oil in an attempt
to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because some of the oil
could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is running, partially
clogging it. |
 Pleated Air Filter Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Prefilters.
Fits various Kohler engine models K241, K301, K341, K482, K532 and K582 with
the tall round-shaped metal
air cleaner/filter assembly. Can also be used on mini rods, hot rods,
race cars, etc. with an automotive engine. Non-restricting flame retardant
filtering material. Performance engineered for increased breathing. Air filter:
Kohler 277138-S. Foam Wrap/Prefilter: Kohler 277593-S. Air filter element
dimensions (±): 6" O.D. x 4-3/4" I.D. x 4" overall height.
-
High quality aftermarket air filter. $12.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
High quality aftermarket foam wrap/prefilter. $5.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
OEM Kohler air filter. $20.70 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler foam wrap/prefilter. $16.10 each, plus shipping & handling.
NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/prefilter, use
electrical contact cleaner,
brake parts cleaner,
cleaning solvent or
paint thinner (these leave no oily residue) and 150±
psi compressed air, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not add oil in an attempt
to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because some of the oil
could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is running, partially
clogging it. |
NOTE: Air filters and foam wraps/prefilters are
available for many other makes and models of engines. If you need something
that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's with your
engine model and specification numbers and I'll see if we can get it for
you at a reasonable price. Please contact A-1 Miller's
if you're interested in any of the listed above
È parts or items.
FYI - About the air cleaner assembly
on the Kohler K90/K91 engine with the Carter Model N #13 or #16 carburetor
shown above, being the OEM Kohler air cleaner assembly and individual components
are no longer available, and used OEM Kohler air cleaner assemblies or components
in good condition are extremely hard to find nowadays and/or is cost prohibitive,
the lower priced and readily available OEM Tecumseh air cleaner assembly
shown on the Kohler K91 engine above will fit this engine with one modification
that needs to be made. The center of the [plastic] mounting adapter will
need to be bored-out/enlarged to match the diameter of the inlet opening
of the carburetor to allow the engine to draw plenty of air. This air cleaner
assembly includes a pleated paper air filter element (part # 35066), plastic
twist-on cover (part # 35065), plastic mounting adapter (part # 35797), and
mounting gasket (part # 27272A). Two 8-32 UNC screws with two small spacers
and two flat washers w/lock washers and gasket are also needed to securely
fasten the adapter to the carburetor. And the OEM Tecumseh air cleaner assembly
shown to the right (part # 730164), which includes a pleated paper air filter
element, metal cover, and metal mounting plate, will also fit this engine
with no modifications whatsoever. An ingenious and innovative idea by
Brian Miller because nobody else mentions about doing this online. The
OEM Kohler air cleaner assemblies for Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161
and K181 will also fit the K90/K91 engine carburetor. |
The Carburetor (Intake) Air/Fuel Mixture Baffle Plate -
(Added 1/30/18) [Top of Page]
The OEM Kohler Carburetor (Intake)
Air/Fuel Mixture Baffle Plate is made of .018" thickness aluminum, is installed
(sandwiched) between two mounting gaskets between the carburetor and intake
manifold or engine block. Its purpose is to "swirl" the incoming air/fuel
mixture to atomize the fuel better with the air so the engine will produce
more horsepower and torque. According to
kohlerplus.com, this
particular part (Kohler part #'s 52 063 40-S and 82 755 24-S, both discontinued
from Kohler) originally came on Kohler Magnum opposed twin cylinder M18 engines
with specification numbers: 24620 (AYP tractor), 24644 (AYP tractor), 24646
(Cub Cadet), 24665 (AYP tractor), 24666 (AYP tractor); and MV18 engines with
specification numbers: 58553 (AYP tractor), 58556 (AYP tractor), 58560 (AYP
tractor), 58561 (AYP tractor); and M20 engines with specification numbers:
49603 (AYP tractor), 49634 (AYP tractor); and MV20 engines with specification
numbers: 57525 (Exmark), 57526 (Yardman), 57527 (AYP tractor), 57528 (AYP
tractor), 57529 (AYP tractor). It can also be used on the Kohler single cylinder
engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 for improved performance.
Return To Previous Paragraph or Section
How to repair stripped-out air cleaner/filter base mounting screw holes
in a Carter, Kohler #26, #28, #30 or Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetor.
- An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody
else advertise these repair procedures.
(Updated 9/11/18)
Method #1: On the Kohler #26 or #30 carburetors with five air
cleaner/filter base mounting screw holes (2 for the K-series, and 3 for the
AQS (Quiet Line) models), if the two lower holes (located at the 4:00 and
8:00 positions) are stripped-out but not overly enlarged...
-
Use an 11/64" drill bit to drill all the way through the stripped-out holes
until the drill bit comes out the other end (don't drill into the float bowl
area!), and if the threads in the upper hole (12:00 position) is also stripped
out, drill 1" depth in this hole, too. (Don't drill into the high speed adjuster
hole!)
-
Use a (preferably new) 10-32 UNF plug tap to cut new threads deeper in the
drilled holes.
-
Finally, use 150± PSI compressed air to clear out any metal fragments,
and use 3/4" long x 10-32 UNF screws with lock washers to securely fasten
the air cleaner/filter base to the carburetor.
Method #2: Do this when the holes are too big for 10-32 UNF screws
are described above, Heli-Coil thread inserts, or even 12-24 UNC screws will
not fix the problem. NOTE: It takes a person with expert mechanical skills
to perform the repair mentioned below Ê
work. I have done this many times and it works great.
-
Parts needed:
-
Several inches of 1/4-20 UNC
mild steel threaded rod. If the holes in the carburetor body are already
1/4", then use 5/16-18 UNC mild steel threaded rod. (All Thread,
long threaded rod or long threaded bolt.) NOTE: 5/16" is the maximum
that can fit.
-
1/4" x 2"+ long solid aluminum
rod.
-
Remove the choke plate and shaft from the carburetor body.
When removing the choke shaft, there's a tiny
(1/8" or 5/32") steel ball and small compression spring located at the 9:00
position when facing the choke end with the float area down. When the choke
shaft is removed, hold one finger over the end of the choke shaft hole and
the screw hole to prevent the ball from popping out and possibly getting
lost. By the way - the ball and spring is required only for hand-operation
of the choke plate to keep it in the open position on stand-alone engines,
such as on a garden tiller, portable generator/welder, portable air compressor,
portable water pump, etc. The ball and spring is not needed if the choke
is remotely operated with a choke cable, such as on a garden tractor, etc.
-
For 1/4" thread insert, enlarge the stripped-out hole(s) in the carburetor
body with a 13/64" drill bit, or for 5/16" thread insert, enlarge the hole
with a 17/64" drill bit.
-
Cut threads all the way through in the drilled hole(s) with a 1/4-20 UNC
or 5/6-18 UNC plug hand tap.
-
If a small metal lathe with a self-centering 3-jaw chuck is available, steps
3 and 4 can be skipped by chucking the insert in the lathe, and drill and
tap threads through the insert. IMPORTANT: If
you don't feel comfortable using a metal lathe, please consult a professional
and experienced machinist with a lathe.
-
Apply
high strength liquid threadlocker in the threaded hole(s),
insert the 1/4" solid aluminum rod through the choke shaft holes, and install
a minimum 1/4" length of 1/4" or 5/16" threaded rod in the hole(s) until
they bottom out against the aluminum rod, creating thread inserts. Remove
the aluminum rod immediately to prevent the threadlocker from sealing it
too in place.
-
When the
high strength liquid threadlocker has fully cured (usually
takes 24 hours at room temperature), cut off or grind the threaded rod(s)
flush with the choke flange. If a choke plate is going to be used, make
sure the end of the insert(s) will not to interfere with movement of the
choke shaft. If necessary, grind interference of the insert with a
Dremel or equivalent small rotary grinder chucked with
either a very small grinding stone
(chainsaw sharpening stone) or an 1/8" high speed steel
end mill.
-
Resurface the choke flange on a wide, flat
belt- or disc-sander so any protruding part of the insert(s)
are flush with the carburetor body.
-
Carefully locate the dead center and place a punch mark in each insert.
-
Drill an 11/64" hole through the
insert(s). For accuracy, it's best to use a drill press or milling machine
to do this.
Heat from the drilling process
may cause the threadlocker material to loosen, which could cause the insert
to thread down in the choke shaft hole. To prevent the insert from unthreading,
insert the 1/4" aluminum rod through the choke shaft holes so the insert
will bottom out against the aluminum. Allow the drill bit to penetrate the
aluminum slightly to go the full length of the insert. And to lessen the
chance of overheating the threadlocker material when drilling the hole, use
plenty of cutting oil, and drill slowly into hole(s) with a 5/32" drill bit,
then finish with the 11/64" bit. Use sharp (preferably new) drill bits,
too.
-
Allow the inserts to thoroughly cool after the drilling process (dip in cold
water), then use a 10-32 UNF
TAPER hand tap to initially cut new threads through the
insert(s), then finish cutting the threads all the way through the insert(s)
with a
PLUG tap. Again, as a precaution to prevent the insert
from threading into the choke shaft hole, insert the 1/4" aluminum rod through
the choke shaft holes, and allow the plug tap to cut threads into the rod
so the threads will go the full length of the insert.
Click or tap here
to learn how to cut new threads, the professional way
-
With the 1/4" aluminum rod in the choke shaft holes, use a 1/4" drill bit
to lightly chamfer or bevel the threaded hole in the insert(s).
-
Apply motor oil in the threaded holes, and then the choke shaft/plate can
be reinstalled, and the air cleaner/filter base or a velocity stack can now
be securely fastened to the carburetor.
Never Over-Tighten the Mounting Bolts or Use Multiple Gaskets When Fastening
the Carburetor to the Engine! (Updated 11/26/16)
When installing the carburetor
to an engine, the use of two or more gaskets and then torquing the mounting
bolts to specs, or just over-tightening the bolts will severely warp the
mounting flange on a carburetor, causing it to bend, which will create a
vacuum leak, or worse yet, being cast aluminum don't bend or flex too easily,
the flange could break. So remember, before installing any carburetor, first
resurface the mounting flange on a wide, flat
belt- or disc-sander to remove warpage and restore flatness,
and for general lawn and garden use, install just one thin (.030" thickness)
gasket or one (5/32" thickness) heat isolator
gasket. And be sure to use the "two-bolt torque" sequence! To do this,
lightly tighten the first bolt, then lightly tighten the second bolt, and
tighten the first bolt securely, and then tighten the second bolt securely.
If a Carter or Kohler or Walbro carburetor body is broken and/or damaged
beyond repair, the carburetor body is 100% scrap metal. (If the threads for
the float bowl retaining bolt are stripped-out, read below
Ê.) But the parts on the carburetor body
are considered valuable and can be used on another carburetor body that's
in good condition (if some of the parts are in fact reusable). Parts such
as: throttle and choke shafts and plates, choke friction (detent) ball and
spring, idle speed adjusting screw and spring, idle fuel mixture screw and
spring, high speed air/fuel needle adjuster and spring, main jet/nozzle (emulsion
tube), fuel inlet valve and seat (if not worn and leaks fuel), float, float
pin, float bowl, neoprene rubber O-ring seal, fuel baffle/splash shield,
bowl retaining screw, and fuel hose fitting. The OEM (US) manufacturers
are phasing out many parts for flathead engines due to EPA smog emissions.
But some parts may still be available in aftermarket.
How to Repair Stripped-Out Float Bowl Retaining Bolt Threads in a Carter
or Kohler or Walbro Carburetor - An ingenious and innovative concept
by Brian Miller, because nobody else mentions these type of repairs.


But if the threads
for the float bowl retaining bolt are stripped-out in a Carter Model N #13,
#16, #18, #20, #22 carburetor, an 8mm fine thread (M8 x 1.25 pitch) metric
bolt can be used. But if the metric threads become stripped-out, then a 3/8-24
UNF bowl retaining bolt (for the Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 or Walbro
WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors) can be used. For the 8mm
metric bolt, an 8mm x 1.25
bottom hand tap will need to be used. But for a 3/8-24
bolt, the stripped-out hole will need to be enlarged with a 21/64" drill
bit (be careful not to drill into the main jet; there's no need to remove
the main jet/nozzle), and new threads will need to be cut
perpendicular
to the carburetor body with a 3/8-24 UNF
bottom hand tap. A bottom tap cuts the threads deeper with
very little taper at the end. Do not complete the tapping process with just
a taper or plug tap because the threads may not go deep enough for the bigger
bolt. However, the threads can be started with a taper or plug tap, but will
need to be finished with the bottom tap. Then use 150± PSI compressed
air to thoroughly clear out the metal drilling/cuttings from the main jet/nozzle
(emulsion tube) and entire carburetor! A 3/8" I.D. fiber washer will need
to be used with the 3/8" bolt, and the hole in the float bowl will need to
be drilled out to 3/8" to match the bolt in the carburetor, or use a float
bowl with a 3/8" hole. And do not over-tighten the metric bolt to prevent
from stripping the new threads. If the metric threads strip out, the carburetor
body is scrap metal.
If the threads for the float
bowl retaining bolt are stripped-out in a Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30,
Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 or virtually any other carburetor
that use a 3/8"-24 UNF float bowl retaining bolt, a 10mm fine thread (M10
x 1.25 pitch) x 3/8" thread length bolt can be used. If a 3/8" length metric
bolt can't be found, a longer bolt that's made of mild steel can be machined
down (shortened) in a metal lathe. IMPORTANT:
If you don't feel comfortable using a metal lathe, please consult a professional
and experienced machinist with a lathe. Being the stripped-out
hole is already large enough for the M10 x 1.25 threads to be cut, so it
won't need to be drilled out. But if it does need drilling out (enlarging),
use an 8.8 mm or 11/32" drill bit (be careful not to drill into the main
jet; there's no need to remove the main jet/nozzle), then new threads will
need to be cut
perpendicular
to the carburetor body with a M10 x 1.25
bottom hand tap. A bottom tap cuts the threads deeper
with very little taper at the end. Do not complete the tapping process with
just a taper or plug tap because the threads may not go deep enough for the
metric bolt. However, the threads can be started with a taper or plug tap,
but will need to be finished with the bottom tap. Then use 150± PSI
compressed air to thoroughly clear out the metal drilling/cuttings from the
main jet/nozzle and entire carburetor! Also, the holes in the fiber washer
and in the float bowl for the retaining bolt will need to be enlarged to
13/32" to match the bolt in the carburetor. And do not over-tighten the metric
bolt to prevent from stripping the new threads. If the metric threads strip
out, the carburetor body is scrap metal. But save everything off of it because
they can be used on another carburetor body that's in good condition.

On a used (and supposedly clean) carburetor, if the float bowl
retaining bolt will not effortlessly tighten against the float bowl to secure
it in place, DO NOT FORCE THE BOLT TO TIGHTEN! Doing this may cause the thin-wall
metal to split, possibly rendering the carburetor useless. The resistance
in threading the bolt in the hole is caused by debris "gumming up" the threads
in the carburetor body (or in the threads of the bolt). Instead, clean the
threads in the carburetor body with a 3/8-24 UNF BOTTOM hand tap, then use
150± PSI compressed air to clear out the debris. With a bottom tap,
there's no need to remove the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube). But if the
protruding part where the float bowl bolt threads into is previously cracked
or does split, a spring-loaded 1/2" fuel hose clamp can be installed over
the protruding part with the opening in the clamp opposite the crack. This
will reinforce the aluminum, squeeze the tube back to its original size and
prevent the crack from spreading when the bolt is tightened. After the clamp
is installed, grind the protruding tangs flush with the clamp so they will
not make contact with and interfere with the operation of the float. The
clamp will then become a permanent part of the carburetor. And if any part
of the clamp blocks off the fuel feed holes, a new 3/32" fuel feed hole will
need to be drilled through the opening in the clamp so fuel from the float
bowl can reach the main jet/nozzle. This size hole should be big enough to
allow plenty of fuel to enter through the main jet. An ingenious and
innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this type
of repair.
How to Repair the Vacu-Jet (3hp) and Pulsa-Jet
(3.5 or 4hp) Automatic Choke Carburetor on a Vertical Shaft Briggs &
Stratton Flathead Engine - [Top of Page]
The Vacu-Jet carburetor
operates off of engine vacuum to delivery fuel to the engine. (The very first
Vacu-Jet carburetors have a manual choke, and no diaphragm. The second design
Vacu-Jet carburetor use a diaphragm, and have a manual choke. The third design
Vacu-Jet use a diaphragm and has an automatic choke.) And the Pulsa-Jet has
a built-in fuel pump to delivery fuel to the engine. Both of the [newest
design] Vacu-Jet and Pulsa-Jet carburetors have an automatic choke. If either
of these carburetors run rich on fuel, and the choke will not open after
starting, what has happened is where the carburetor is fastened to the fuel
tank, these two "mating surfaces" has become warped. This is caused by
over-tightening of the air filter housing screw. To fix this...
-
Remove the carburetor/fuel tank assembly from the engine.
-
Remove the choke rod cover from the carburetor and the carburetor from the
fuel tank.
-
Completely disassemble the carburetor, except for the throttle shaft and
choke plate. Gently remove the fuel pickup tubes with a 3/8" and 9/16" 6-point
socket. Be careful not to twist them off in the carburetor!
-
Use a
carburetor jet cleaner wire set or an
oxy-acetylene welding torch tip cleaner to clear out the
dried gas and/or dirt/debris from the idle and main nozzle holes.
Be careful not to enlarge the holes, or the engine
will run rich on fuel!
-
There is no need to use B&S's roll pin and Teflon washer repair kit for
a warped carburetor and gas tank! Instead, resurface the carburetor's diaphragm
surface on a wide, flat
belt or disc sander to remove any warpage and restore flatness.
(Be sure to use eye protection!) If the carburetor is warped, the sander
will make contact where the screw holes are, but not between the screw holes.
-
Again, there is no need to use B&S's roll pin and Teflon washer repair
kit for a warped carburetor and gas tank! Instead, with the gas tank lightly
clamped in a large bench vise, resurface the diaphragm surface with a large,
wide, flat file to remove any warpage and restore flatness. Use caution!
Do not "rock the file" when resurfacing the mating surface of the tank! Use
diagonal and swirling motions of the file so the diaphragm surface will be
more or less even across the gas tank, or very little will be gained.'
-
NOTE: Don't believe all brain-washed, factory-trained technicians. Because
sometimes one must improvise to make something work. And regardless how the
service/repair manual reads, using a large, flat file to make the warped
surface on a carburetor and/or fuel tank flat again will not hurt anything
if a skillful person does it correctly. B&S wants to make more money
by selling unsuspecting customers new parts. That's why they write their
manuals the way they do. Remember the old saying: "A fool and their money
are soon parted." B&S probably laugh all the way to the bank after making
every sale, too.
-
After resurfacing, use a
hacksaw blade to recut (or deepen) the shallow groove from the choke bellow
well to the vacuum port. Doing this will allow the choke plate to open
immediately when the engine starts. Failure to do this will allow the choke
plate to open very slowly or not open at all, which will cause the engine
to flood out and die.
-
Use 150± PSI compressed air to clear out the metal filings and any dirt
or debris from the air and fuel passageways in the carburetor, screens on
the fuel pickup tubes, and entire fuel tank.
-
Reinstall the fuel pickup tubes in the carburetor with the 3/8" and 9/16"
6-point socket. Be careful not to twist them off in the carburetor!
-
To reinstall the carburetor on the gas tank, hold the carburetor upside-down,
place the fuel pump spring and protective cup in its counterbore, and the
diaphragm on the carburetor (a new diaphragm should be installed), and place
the tank on the carburetor. Doing this retains the diaphragm and fuel pump
spring/protector in place. Make sure the fuel pump flapper valves are in
place, too. Then while holding the carburetor tight against the tank, flip
both the carburetor and gas tank over and the screws can be installed.
-
Insert the choke rod in the choke shaft and flip the choke plate over of
normal operation. This preloads the bellow in the diaphragm, making it
flex easier and allows the choke plate open easier when the engine starts.
-
If it's a Pulsa-Jet carburetor, invert the carburetor (turn upside down)
and place the fuel pump spring in first with the protective cap on the spring.
Place the spring and cap in the carburetor recess, and not in the fuel tank
recess. With the carburetor still upside down, install the diaphragm on the
carburetor, place the tank on the carburetor, then flip them over to loosely
install the mounting screws.
-
Connect the choke rod to the choke lever, and flip the choke plate over in
the reverse rotation with the lever facing downward. Doing this places pressure
on the bellow of the diaphragm so the choke plate can open more freely without
binding when the engine starts.
-
Tighten the carburetor mounting screws, reinstall the choke rod cover with
a new gasket and that's it!
How to Repair the Pulsa-Jet Carburetor on a Vertical or Horizontal Shaft
5hp Briggs & Stratton Flathead Engine -
If a 5hp B&S engine has excellent spark and adequate compression, but
doesn't run right, then the problem is obviously in the carburetor. To fix
the problem...
-
Remove the carburetor from the engine and fuel tank, completely disassemble,
and clean the carburetor body and metal parts with an
ultrasonic
cleaning machine. Personally, I use automotive windshield washer fluid
and a small amount of laundry detergent in my ultrasonic cleaner and it cleans
carburetor and other small parts very well. Although
Berryman® Chem-Dip® Carburetor and Parts Cleaner
can also be used to dissolve or loosen any dried gas deposits, crud and debris.
And use brake cleaner, parts cleaner or paint thinner to finish cleaning
off the remaining grime, then blow-dry the parts with 150± PSI compressed
air and to clear the debris from the carburetor body and idle fuel
passageway.
-
Use a
carburetor jet cleaner wire set or an
oxy-acetylene welding torch tip cleaner to clear out the
dried gas and/or dirt/debris from the idle and main nozzle holes.
Be careful not to enlarge the holes, or the engine
will run rich on fuel!
-
Use 150± PSI compressed air to clear the debris from the nozzle holes,
entire carburetor and fuel tank.
-
Clean the screens on the pickup tubes.
-
When the carburetor-to-block mounting screws are tightened for the first
time, this causes the carburetor mounting flange to warp, which allows for
a vacuum leak. To fix this, resurface the carburetor flange on a wide, flat
belt or disc sander to remove any warpage and restore flatness.
(Be sure to use eye protection!) If the flange is warped, the sander will
make contact where the bolt holes are, but not between the bolt holes.
-
Again, when the fuel pump cover mounting screws are tightened for the first
time, this causes the cover to warp, which causes a vacuum leak, and the
pump will not produce full flow and pressure to the reservoir bowl. To fix
this, resurface the cover with a large flat file or on the sanding belt or
disc sander (be careful!) to remove warpage and restore flatness. (Sometimes
I use the side of the abrasive cutting wheel on my
14" electric chop saw with a metal cut-off wheel. Works
great! Extreme care is recommended and be sure to use eye protection!)
-
Install a new fuel pump
diaphragm, carburetor to tank gasket and carburetor to block gasket, set
the fuel mixture adjustment screw about 1-½ turns out, and make the
final adjustment after the engine runs.
-
If the throttle shaft needs to be removed for whatever reason, first pull
the sheet metal spiral from the throttle bore with large pliers or
long/needle-nose Vise-Grips locking pliers. Then access
to the throttle plate retaining screw can be gained with a long slender
screwdriver. Repair as needed.
-
Your engine should run like new afterwards!
How to clean the main jet in a 16hp/18hp flathead opposed (flathead)
twin cylinder Briggs & Stratton engine -
The main jet is located in the float bowl of the carburetor. To access and
clean it...
-
If equipped, remove the hood of the tractor (they're easy to remove).
-
Remove the air cleaner/filter assembly. Be careful not to drop the screws
down inside the carburetor!
-
Remove the choke cable from the carburetor.
-
Remove the top of the carburetor.
-
Remove the hex plug on the side of the carburetor.
-
Use a
carburetor jet cleaner wire set or an
oxy-acetylene welding torch tip cleaner to clean out
the hole (orifice) in the main jet. The hole (orifice) in the main jet
is accessed through where the hex plug is. Be careful not to enlarge the
hole (orifice) in the main jet, or the engine will run rich on fuel!
-
Use 150± PSI compressed air to clear out the hole (orifice) in the main
jet and dirt/debris from the float bowl area.
-
Reinstall everything in reverse order of removal.
Your engine should rev up without using the choke afterwards! This may have
to be done every few years because these type of carburetors are notorious
for having tiny particles of dirt/debris that passes through the fuel filter
settle at the bottom of the float bowl. The main jet is real close to the
bottom of the float bowl too, which allows dirt/debris to clog it over time.
A-1 Miller's
Computerized Stuska Water Brake Engine
Dynamometer
(Dyno) Service with DPM Data Logger Software to Test Horsepower and
Torque! | [Top of Page]
For performance testing of 10-16hp
single cylinder Kohler stock or competition pulling engines at speeds up
to 12,000 RPM. 100% accurate, customers can rent dyno time, fine tune and
make adjustments or changes to their engines to gain maximum horsepower and
torque, and print-out the results so their tractor(s) will be truly competitive
on the track. With an engine dyno, the puller can adjust their engine to
get maximum horsepower and torque, and gear their tractor appropriately to
have an advantage over the competition. NOTE: A fresh-built engine may
not produce full power until it's broke-in. This is when the valves wear-in
with the seats to completely seal in the compression. The rings will likely
hold the compression, but the valves may leak slightly until they wear into
the seats. This is normal for all engines and may take several hours or pulls
to happen, then the valves will be able to hold full compression. Lots of
pullers tell A-1 Miller's after I've built their engines that it seems to
pull stronger every time they pull it.
Engine Dyno Rental Fee: $50.00 per hour run time from the moment the
engine is started. No setup fee for Cub Cadet engines with a 3- or 6-pin/stud
clutch driver. An adapter may need to be needed or fabricated for other makes
and models of engines. Only engines with the narrow base oil pan can be tested.
Engines with the wide base (tall) oil pan cannot be tested at this time.
[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
Coming Soon - Detailed Illustrated
Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back and Self-Propelled Garden
Tractor Pulling Sled. FYI - The
professionally-built self-propelled pulling sled is the only one I've ever
built (click the picture to the right to see a larger image of this sled),
and I got it right the first time, with very few changes or modifications
that had to be made to it. I guess I'm just one of those kind of guys that
knows what he's doing. Pullers really like pulling our sled, too. They say
it's the best sled they've ever pulled. (Not bragging, just stating a fact.)
By the way - Track Master sled is engineered so well (by Brian Miller), that
other sled builders/owners have copied my well thought-out and proven design.
And I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence. Anyway, I have lots
of work to do in my shop and I work on the sled plans in my spare time. As
soon as my plans with an inventory list of parts to use are perfected, I'll
post the update in my websites with the prices of the plans. Remember -
Perfection takes time. If it's worth having, it's worth waiting for. Also,
I plan to acquire a bigger shop and may build high quality garden tractor
pulling sleds in the future to offer for sale. Please call 573-256-0313 (shop)
or 573-881-7229 (cell; text or voice message), or email
pullingtractor@aol.com if interested.
- Brian Miller
To place an order and/or for FREE professional and honest
technical assistance and support, please contact:
If you would like to purchase
any of the parts or services listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's
Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri)
65203-9136 USA |
Phone:
1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice
message, please speak slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except
holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later.
(When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. When
you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with
the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to the
public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate our business to other property with a bigger and better
shop so we can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
To place an order, please call the number below
Ê or send an email with your name, complete
and correct postal address and phone number and so I can figure the total
with shipping cost and USPS Tracking. For payment options for parts ordered
or services performed, or to make a donation to my websites, I accept cash
(in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks,
MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total
for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge),
Western
Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram
Money Transfers. (If a part for a specific purpose is special ordered,
your debit/credit card may be charged for the full amount or as a deposit
right after your order is placed; please do not send your debit/credit card
information in email!) Or you can pay A-1 Miller's through PayPal. (My PayPal
account name is my email address. And be sure to mention in PayPal a description
of what the payment is for.) If sending a money order, please include a note
in the envelope with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone
number and a description of what the payment is for. My mailing address and
phone number are below Ê . I'll make
a note of your order, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should
take a few days to come in, but I will send the parts to you as soon as I
have everything in stock after I receive your payment.
IMPORTANT - When sending your part(s) to A-1 Miller's
for rebuilding or repair, package everything securely so the item(s) won't
get damaged in shipping and please include a note in the box with your name,
mailing address, phone number (in case I have any questions) and a description
of what you want done. When shipping heavy parts, it's best to put a slightly
smaller box inside a larger box, to double the strength and integrity of
the package. Because the clumsy "gorillas" or incompetent and uncaring workers
that work for certain delivery services mishandle the heavy packages and
don't care. And when the work is completed, I'll either call or email you
an invoice with the total including shipping & handling.
Payment Options and We Ship to Canada and
Worldwide 
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent
by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged
item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service
Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal
Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S.
territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground
or equivalent services. We try to keep our shipping cost to customers within
reason. Therefore, we don't ship our products in a fancy-looking package
with our company name and/or logo on it because most customers will just
toss it in the trash after they remove the contents. And being there is no
USPS tracking number outside the US, all I can do is make sure I write your
address correctly on the customs form and on your package.
My websites are not set up to process orders and accept payments. Therefore,
for payment options, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders,
cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express
(please add 2.5% to the total amount for the credit/debit card processor's
surcharge),
Western
Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram
Money Transfers. If paying with a credit/debit card, please call me at
either number below. To make a payment to me through PayPal, please click
this link:
https://www.paypal.me/PullingTractor.
Please use the "Friends and Family" option, or add 3% to the total amount
to cover PayPal's processing surcharge. Or to make a payment to me
(pullingtractor@aol.com) in the US through the Venmo app, please click this
link: venmo.com. Or use
Cash App to make a payment to me
(pullingtractor@aol.com). And be sure to mention in PayPal, Venmo or Cash
App a description of what the payment is for with your full name, postal
address, phone number and email address. If sending a money order or cashier's
check, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete mailing
address, phone number, email address and a description of what the payment
is for. I'll make a note of your order when I have all your information,
and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to
come in, but I will send everything on your list to you as soon as I have
the parts in stock after I receive your payment.




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maintained by Brian Miller.