Inspiring Small Engine, Lawn & Garden, and Garden Pulling Tractor
Enthusiasts Since 1996. Where Science and Common Sense Come Together for
Safety and Improved Engine/Tractor Performance
A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises
- Parts & Services Online Catalog
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Unsportsmanshiplike Conduct -

There's a cheater in every sport, and competition tractor
pulling is no different. Honest pullers who ignore the cheater(s) are fools.
And when there's prize money involved, a fool and their money are soon parted.
Anyway, to make competition pulling a fun and fair sport for the entire family,
be protective of your equipment! While at the pulls, keep an eye on your
carburetor and fuel shut-off valve! When a
competitive or winning pulling tractor is left alone, it's been known that
certain disgruntled pullers
(sore losers
) belonging
to various associations/clubs, virtually anywhere and everywhere, will turn
the high speed air/fuel adjuster one way or the other, or close the
fuel shut-off valve to keep the engine from
running at it's full potential, or from running at all. This is one of the
easiest, dishonest and sneaky ways to retard or disable and sabotage a
competitor's tractor. All a cheater needs is an opportunity in an attempt
to gain an advantage on the track. This is also the fastest way for a pulling
association or club to gain a bad reputation and lose honest pullers. (Bad
news travels fast.) This type of dishonest behavior doesn't happen often,
but you need to be prepared if or when it does happen. To be prepared for
this unforeseeable event, it'll be a good idea to cover the entire carburetor
with a
drawstring bag, or better yet, cover the entire tractor
with a canvas or heavy blanket.
Keep an eye on your
kill switch plug, too! Always try to stay one step ahead of a
cheater.
Use a Remote Fuel Primer Bulb System to Start a Cold
Engine - A proven, ingenious, thoroughly researched and innovative
concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise the use of this system
for use on a lawn and garden tractor or small motorized vehicle.
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[Return To Previous Paragraph or
Section]


If a Carter, Kohler
or Walbro carburetor (or virtually any type of float carburetor) that's used
on lawn or garden equipment, or competition pulling tractor don't have the
choke plate/shaft installed, but does have an air cleaner/filter assembly,
or an air filter with a velocity stack, and if the engine needs to be "hand
choked" to start it, then you probably already know how hard it is to get
your hand sealed over the entire velocity stack, and also have a wet hand
from "hand choking" the carburetor due to raw fuel afterwards. The remote
fuel primer system installed will prevent this. Having a small hose connected
to the atmospheric vent opening (air passageway from inside the float bowl
area to outside of carburetor) in the carburetor is a lot safer than having
raw fuel spilling out of the drilled hole on the side of the carburetor when
pulling! An inexpensive and safe way to get extra fuel in the throttle bore
to start a cold engine is to use a remote fuel primer system. This system
can also be adapted for use on ordinary garden tractors, lawn and garden
equipment, small motorized vehicle or virtually any type of small engine
equipment with virtually any type of float-type carburetor. This system is
similar to the same set up that many small engine manufacturers use on their
engines nowadays. Works great with pump gas, race gas, E85 or alcohol fuel.
Can be used on most lawn & garden small engine equipment, competition
garden pulling tractors, small all terrain vehicles, etc.
NOTE: If an engine is hard to start, even with the choke plate fully closed
and tuned correctly, then it may need a professional valve job performed
and valve clearances reset. The reason some older engines is hard to start
is because the valve faces, especially the intake valve, wears slightly away
against the valve seat, and this causes the clearance between the valve stem
and lifter to be lessened, which will prevent the valve(s) from fully closing
to trap adequate compression in the combustion chamber [so the engine can
start easier]. This remote fuel primer system will not fix this type of problem.
How the Remote Fuel Primer System Works: The fuel primer bulb on a
snowblower engine connects directly to the float bowl and takes place of
the atmospheric vent hole in the float bowl. The bulb itself has a small
atmospheric vent hole. When the bulb is compressed (small atmospheric vent
hole sealed), this creates air pressure within the bulb, tubing and float
bowl, which force fuel up through the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube), creating
a slight flooding condition in the throttle bore. Thus, helping a cold engine
without a choke plate start much easier. With this system, the engine cannot
be "over-choked," which could foul the spark plug. The fuel primer system
can also be used as a manual accelerator pump when an engine hesitates to
rev up on its own.
With the original atmospheric vent opening (air passageway from inside the
float bowl area to outside of carburetor) in the carburetor plugged, a short
brass tube is inserted into a drilled hole in the float bowl area on the
side of the carburetor body, and with a small fuel hose connecting the carburetor
to the primer bulb assembly, which is mounted on the steering column support
pedestal.
How to Install and Use My Remote Fuel Primer System:
-
Remove the carburetor from the
engine, remove the float bowl and float.
-
Plug the atmospheric vent passageway (from inside the float bowl area to
outside of carburetor that's located at the 2:00 position next to the choke
plate) with a 1/4" Allen set screw. Cut some short threads for a 1/4" coarse
or fine thread x 1/4" length Allen set screw, and install the screw in the
opening. If there's a small hole to the right of the choke plate, plug this
hole with a 3-48 screw using
high strength liquid threadlocker. And if there's a
small hole drilled on the outside of the carburetor body, this will need
to be plugged with
JB Weld two-part epoxy or a short screw. See the photos
to the right ->. (The installed tube, hose and hole in the primer bulb
will be the new atmospheric vent for the float bowl.)
-
Be sure to use 150± P.S.I. compressed air with an
air blow gun nozzle to clear out the metal cuttings from
the entire carburetor.
-
Drill an 1/8" hole into the float bowl area just above the float fuel level
on the side of the carburetor body to install the 1/8" tube to connect the
primer hose. On the Carter or Kohler carburetor, this would be just above
the bowl seal and below the atmospheric vent opening (air passageway from
outside the carburetor to the float bowl area) on the right side of the
carburetor when viewed from the choke end. The drilled hole should be a press-fit
for the 1/8" tubing. Use
high strength liquid threadlocker to permanently secure
the tube in the hole then gently tap the tube in the hole with a small hammer
until it's flush with the inside of the float bowl area. See photo to the
right.
-
Reassemble the carburetor, and use a hammer to flatten the hole from inside
the float bowl on a hard, flat surface so when the bowl bolt is tightened
against the carburetor, it will place more pressure against the
neoprene
rubber O-ring seal and fuel baffle/splash shield to prevent an air leak (and
possible fuel leak). Reinstall the carburetor on the engine, and connect
the fuel line. FYI - The fuel baffle/splash shield prevents fuel inside
the float bowl from traveling up through the atmospheric vent opening (air
passageway into the float bowl) and into the throttle bore when the engine
is "moving around" or "moving up and down" severely, such as on a go-kart,
garden tiller or small all-terrain vehicle, which could cause the engine
to momentarily run rich on fuel.
-
Drill a 17/64" hole to install the primer bulb assembly someplace on the
tractor's steering column support pedestal within easy reach of the driver.
Mount the primer bulb on side of the pedestal so rain water and/or when
washing off tractor, water will not enter in the hole in the bulb and contaminate
the fuel in the carburetor.
-
Route the primer hose along the tractor so it won't get kinked, pinched or
damaged and away from moving parts and hot exhaust area. Then attach the
hose from the primer bulb assembly to the tube on the carburetor.
-
Fill carburetor with fuel, and press the primer bulb quickly a couple of
times with your finger to create pressure within the float bowl (be sure
to place a finger over the hole in the bulb), and at the same time, look
inside the carburetor. Fuel should squirt from the main nozzle and into the
throttle bore with each push. Now then the engine should be quick to start!
NOTE: It only takes a couple of pushes of the primer bulb to thoroughly
prime the carburetor to start the engine. Any more pushes, the carburetor
may become flooded and the engine could take longer to start! Another
useful thing about the fuel primer system is, this system can be used as
a manual accelerator pump if an engine hesitates to rev up, especially before
reaching its operating temperature (cold engine).
-
NOTE: If an engine is hard to start, even with the choke plate fully closed
and tuned correctly, then it may need a professional valve job performed
and valve clearances reset. The reason some older engines is hard to start
is because the valve faces, especially the intake valve, wears slightly away
against the valve seat, and this causes the clearance between the valve stem
and lifter to be lessened, which will prevent the valve(s) from fully closing
to trap adequate compression in the combustion chamber [so the engine can
start easier]. This remote fuel primer system will not fix this type of problem.
FYI - Most [cold] engines will not start when fuel is introduced directly
into the combustion chamber through the spark plug hole. Doing this only
results in a flooding condition and the engine may not start. Gas (or starting
fluid) needs to be mixed with incoming air through the carburetor intake
so the air can atomize the fuel (break down
into a fine mist) to burn more thoroughly so the engine will be able to start
quicker.
When removing the choke shaft, there's a tiny
(1/8" or 5/32") steel ball and small compression spring located at the 9:00
position when facing the choke end with the float area down. When the choke
shaft is removed, hold one finger over the screw hole and end of the choke
shaft hole to prevent the ball and spring from popping out and possibly getting
lost. By the way - the ball and spring is required only for hand-operation
of the choke plate to keep it in the open position on stand-alone engines
without a remote cable control, such as on a garden tiller, generator/welder,
air compressor, water pump, etc. The ball and spring is not needed if the
choke is remotely operated with a choke cable, such as on a garden tractor,
small motorized vehicle, etc. Replace these parts if they get lost so the
choke will stay open while the engine is running. But if the choke lever/plate
is operated by a remotely operated cable, such as on a lawn & garden
tractor, then these parts aren't needed and will serve no purpose whatsoever.
Advertisement: (Prices are subject to change without notice.)
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and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or
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  Small
Engine Remote Fuel Primer System Kits. Safe to use and works flawlessly!
Can be used on most general lawn and garden tractors, competition garden
pulling tractors, go-karts, small motorized vehicles, or virtually any small
engine lawn and garden or snow removal equipment with a choke plate in the
carburetor. Primer bulb can be installed on pedestal, dashboard, instrument
panel, engine control panel, flywheel shroud, etc. Requires 1/4" mounting
hole for primer bulb assembly. Works with Carter or Kohler (OEM and aftermarket),
Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh, Mikuni, Zenith, or virtually any carburetor
with a float. Works with pump gas, race gas, E-85 or methanol fuels. The
choice of professional garden tractor pullers everywhere! With the fuel bowl
atmospheric vent opening plugged (air passageway from inside the float bowl
to outside of carburetor), then with one or two pushes of the primer bulb
with your finger, air pressure created within the float bowl forces fuel
up through the main jet and out the nozzle, creating a slight flooding condition
inside the carburetor throttle bore, allowing a cold engine to start quick.
With this setup installed, the choke plate and shaft is not needed and can
be removed. No more binding of a cable-operated choke and/or bent choke plate,
or messy and unsafe "hand choking" of the carburetor. Being the atmospheric
vent opening will be plugged, the
fuel baffle splash shield
in the Carter or Kohler carburetor is not needed with this setup and will
serve no purpose whatsoever. Kit includes: New primer bulb assembly with
integrated 1/8" barbed fuel hose fitting and serrated mounting nut, 1/8"
I.D. x 3/16" O.D. x 2' length clear vinyl hose, loop-type clamp and 1/8"
diameter x 1" length brass tube.
Click or tap here for installation
instructions. NOTE: If an engine is hard to start, even with the choke
plate fully closed and tuned correctly, then it may need the valve clearances
reset and/or professional valve job performed. The reason some older engines
is hard to start is because the valve faces, especially the intake valve,
wears slightly away against the valve seat, and this causes the clearance
between the valve stem and lifter to be lessened, which will prevent the
valve(s) from fully closing to trap adequate compression in the combustion
chamber [so the engine can start easier]. This remote fuel primer system
will not help an engine start easier if it needs a valve job. A proven,
ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise
the universal kit for use on various small engine equipment, lawn and garden
tractors, small motorized vehicles or competition garden pulling tractors.
[Return
To Previous Paragraph or Section]
-
Fuel Primer Bulb Only. Includes serrated mounting nut. $7.00 each,
plus shipping.
-
High Quality Complete Universal Fuel Primer System Kit. Replaces OEM Kohler
part # 14 755 36-S. $11.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
XT Fuel Primer Kit. OEM Kohler part # 14 755 36-S. $18.05 each, plus
shipping.
|
Identification of Carter and Kohler Carburetors -
(Corrected and updated 3/11/21) The types of carburetors that's used on
Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161,
KV161,
L160/L161, L181, K181 and
M8 are as follows:
-


The Carter
Model N #13 and #16 carburetors are designed specifically for Kohler
engine model K90 and K91 (which are the same engine), and certain low RPM
K141 engines. The throttle bore measures .810" diameter and the venturi is
.542" diameter. When used on a Kohler engine model K141, K160/K161, certain
KV161,
L160/L161, L181, K181 or M8, due to the smaller throttle
bore and restrictive venturi, and velocity of air that's required, the bigger
engine may not produce full power at 3,600 RPM. (It'll be the same as using
a
restrictor plate, or a small 2-barrel carburetor versus
a big 4-barrel carburetor on an automotive engine.) This carburetor came
on various other makes and models of engines, too. It was a popular carburetor
for its time. Measure the throttle bore with a
dial or digital caliper, and measure the venturi with a
plug gauge, such as a deep-well socket or round tubing of the right outside
diameter. The original Kohler (originally Carter) part numbers for this
carburetor are: A-220100, A-220574, A-220745, A-220777, C-220777, E-220517,
F-220762, F-230501, D-220451, G-220517, 46 053 03-S. Being this carburetor
is no longer made in the USA; Kohler part # 46 853 01-S), its replacement
is the Walbro WHL #36 or the aftermarket Carter-replicated carburetor.
-
The Carter Model N #18 carburetor is designed specifically for Kohler
engine model K141. The throttle bore measures .823" diameter and the venturi
is .550" diameter. When used on a Kohler engine model K90/K91, due to the
bigger venturi, the smaller engine may hesitate to rev up. And when used
on a Kohler engine model K160/K161, certain KV161,
L160/L161,
L181, K181 or M8, due to the smaller and restrictive venturi,
and velocity of air that's required, the bigger engine may not produce full
power at 3,600 RPM. (It'll be the same as using a
restrictor plate, or a small 2-barrel carburetor versus
a big 4-barrel carburetor on an automotive engine.) This carburetor came
on various other makes and models of engines, too. It too, was a popular
carburetor for its time. Measure the throttle bore with a
dial or digital caliper, and measure the venturi with a
plug gauge, such as a deep-well socket or round tubing of the right outside
diameter. The original Kohler (originally Carter) part numbers for this
carburetor are: A-231966, G-220517, 41 053 06-S. Being this carburetor is
no longer made (in the USA; Kohler part # 41 853 06-S), its replacement is
the Walbro WHL #36 or 44, or the aftermarket Carter-replicated carburetor.
-
The Carter Model N #20 carburetor is designed specifically for Kohler
engine models K160/K161. The throttle bore measures .823" diameter and the
venturi is .612" diameter. When used on a Kohler engine model K90/K91 or
K141, due to the bigger venturi, the smaller engine may hesitate to rev up.
And due to the smaller and restrictive venturi, and velocity of air that's
required, when used on a Kohler engine model K181,
L181 or M8, the
bigger engine may not produce full power at 3,600 RPM. (It'll be the same
as using a
restrictor plate, or a small 2-barrel carburetor versus
a big 4-barrel carburetor on an automotive engine.) This was a popular carburetor
for its time because it was also used on various other makes and models of
engines. Measure the throttle bore with a
dial or digital caliper, and measure the venturi with a
plug gauge, such as a deep-well socket or round tubing of the right outside
diameter. The original Kohler (originally Carter) part numbers for this
carburetor are: A-230694, A-230798, A-231448, B-231231, B-231450, B-231469,
B-231480, C-231738, E-231488, E-231489, F-230350, F-230501, F-230502, G220517,
G-230500, 41 053 06-S, 41 053 14-S. Being these carburetors are no longer
made (in the USA; Kohler part # 41 853 06-S), its replacement is the Walbro
WHL #44 or the aftermarket Carter-replicated carburetor.
-
The Carter Model N #22 carburetor is designed specifically for Kohler
engine models
K181,
L181 and M8.
The throttle bore measures .823" diameter and the venturi is .682" diameter.
Due to the larger and unrestrictive venturi, and velocity of air that's required,
when used on a
K181,
L181 or M8, the
bigger engine will produce full power at 3,600 RPM. But when used on a K90/K91,
K141 or K160/K161, due to the bigger venturi, the smaller engine may hesitate
to rev up because it will not create the velocity of air or air charge required
to sufficiently draw/suction fuel through the main nozzle at 3,600 RPM. Measure
the throttle bore with a
dial or digital caliper, and measure the venturi with a
plug gauge, such as a deep-well socket or round tubing of the right outside
diameter. The original Kohler (originally Carter) part numbers for this
carburetor are: A-230798, A-231741, A-234641, B-231739, F-230501, F-230502,
F-230350, G-221517, 41 053 01-S, 41 053 04-S, 41 053 05-S, 41 053 06-S, 41
053 18-S, 41 053 20-S. Not all later Carter Model N carburetors with a .682"
venturi have the "22" embossed in the choke end of the carburetor. Being
these carburetors are no longer made (in the USA; Kohler part #'s 41 853
09, 41 853 07-S, 41 853 10-S or 41 853 11-S; different variations between
carburetors, such as design of choke shaft lever, etc.), its replacement
is the Walbro WHL #44 or the aftermarket Carter-replicated carburetor.
-
High Quality Aftermarket
Carter Model N-Replicated Carburetor. The throttle bore in this particular
carburetor measures .811" diameter and the venturi is .588" diameter. This
is an alternative universal low cost carburetor that can be used on Kohler
engine models
K181,
L181 or M8. Due
to the larger size of the venturi, this carburetor may not work correctly
on the Kohler models K90/K91, K141 or K160/K161 engines. Irrelevant Carter
or Kohler part number(s).
FYI - When
Edelbrock bought out the automotive division of
Carter Carburetor Corporation sometime before 1984, Carter
sold their line of small engine carburetors to Kohler Engines in 1985. And
for some reason, Kohler retained the Carter Model N wording on the #13, #16,
#18, #20 and #22 carburetors. But on the bigger Carter #26 and #30 single
cylinder engine carburetors, Kohler redesigned (and actually improved) the
throttle shaft with an integrated lever; incorporated the idle speed adjustment
screw w/spring in the carburetor body; redesigned the size of holes in the
choke plates according to engine size; and made slots in the carburetor body
for easier installation and removal on and off the engine. And Kohler included
two additional air cleaner mounting screw holes for the Kohler AQS "Quiet
Line" engine models K241-K361. Everything else remained the same on the Carter
and Kohler carburetors, with the exception of various redesigned choke levers.
Kohler didn't retain the Carter #28 carburetor because it's too similar to
the #30 carburetor. But the #28 carburetor is available only in aftermarket.
Although the #26 and #28 carburetors are available in aftermarket, for some
reason, the #30 carburetor is not available in aftermarket. Six different
variations of the Carter or Kohler carburetors was made for the Kohler K-series
K241 through K361 engines, KT-series, and the K482, K532 and K582 engines.
(NOTE: If it's rebuildable or repairable, please do not discard your Carter
or Kohler carburetor or other OEM Kohler parts. Most discontinued Kohler
parts are hard to find nowadays, and nothing works better than the original
part(s) that came on the engine.)
The size number (diameter of
throttle bore) for the Carter or Kohler carburetors is embossed inside the
upper part of the choke end, just above the venturi. But not all Kohler
carburetors have a number embossed. In this case, the throttle bore (throttle
plate area) will need to be measured to determine the exact size of the
carburetor. The size number refers to the amount of air that can flow through
the carburetor.
The carburetor with 26 embossed in the choke end has a 26mm or 1.07" diameter
throttle bore. (26mm converts close to 1.070"). The carburetor with 28 embossed
in the choke end has a 28mm diameter or 1.17" throttle bore. (28mm converts
close to 1.170".) And the carburetor with 30 embossed in the choke end has
a 30mm or 1.200" diameter throttle bore (30mm converts close to 1.200".)
For precision, when measuring the throttle bore to determine the size, it's
best to use a
dial or digital caliper.
FYI: Some people advertise online that the carburetor for Kohler engine
models K241, M10, K301 or M12 can also be used on Kohler engine models K321,
M14, K341, M16 and K361. But I know for a fact that if the K241, M10, K301
or M12 carburetor is used on a K321, M14, K341, M16 or K361, which produces
14hp, 16hp and 18hp, respectively, with the correct carburetors, would produce
about 12hp, 14hp and 15hp, and make less torque, because the engine would
be drawing less air through the smaller carburetor to produce not as much
compression. I guess the seller don't know the difference between these
carburetors, because they look virtually identical on the outside. Or maybe
the seller figures what most people don't know, makes them more money.
The carburetors used on Kohler engine models K241, M10, K301, M12, K321,
M14, K341, M16 and K361 are different. They may appear the same on the outside,
but be very different on the inside. The K241, M10, K301 and M12 engines
require a carburetor with a 1.07" throttle bore and venturi that measures
.812" diameter. The K321, M14 engines requires a carburetor with a 1.2" throttle
bore and venturi that measures .937" diameter. The K341, M16 engines requires
a carburetor with a 1.2" throttle bore and venturi that measures 1.000" diameter.
And the K361 engine requires a carburetor with a 1.250" throttle bore and
venturi that measures 1.062" diameter. If the wrong carburetor is used on
any particular engine, the engine may not run right and not produce full
power. The carburetors that's used on various models of Kohler engines are
as follows:
-
The first carburetor is a number "26". It was originally designed and
manufactured by the
Carter Carburetor Corporation, then later manufactured
by Kohler Engines. It has a 26mm or 1.07" diameter throttle bore and the
venturi is .812" diameter. It's designed to be used on Kohler engine models
K241, M10, K301, M12, K3303/K331, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19
(first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. The
carburetor for the single cylinder engines is discontinued from Kohler
L, but available in aftermarket
J. The replacement carburetor from Kohler is
a Walbro WHG #52. OEM Kohler part # 47 853 23-S.
-
And yet there's another type of Kohler #26 carburetor designed specifically
for Kohler engine models K482 and K532. It has a 26mm or 1.07" diameter throttle
bore and the venturi is .812" diameter. The throttle shaft is positioned
horizontally and the idle fuel mixture screw is positioned directly on top
of the carburetor body instead of at an angle on the side. This carburetor
is discontinued from Kohler L, but available
in aftermarket J.
-
The next carburetor is a rare one, it's a number "28". This carburetor was
originally designed and manufactured by the
Carter Carburetor Corporation, and was used on the
early Kohler engine model K321 with specification suffix "A", "B" or "C"
(with a smaller 1-1/8" exhaust valve) and on certain early low RPM K341 engines.
It has a 28mm/1.17" diameter throttle bore and the venturi is .937" diameter.
It may have the part number 236636 stamped on the flange. It has been
discontinued by Carter many years ago. L
The replacement is OEM Kohler part # 45 053 20-S. Which is the fully adjustable
Kohler #30 carburetor as described below. The Walbro WHG #60 or #64 replacement
is OEM Kohler part # 47 853 30-S. By the way - if there's no numbers anywhere
on the carburetor body, then it's definitely a aftermarket carburetor. Because
Carter, Kohler and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on the flange of all
their carburetors. FYI - In 1985, Carter sold their line of small engine
carburetors to Kohler Engines. After 1985, the #28 carburetor was discontinued,
and Kohler installed their #30 carburetor on ALL of the later K321 and K341
engines.
Also, after 1985, Kohler
gave the K321 engine a larger 1-3/8" exhaust valve and made the intake port
larger in diameter. These are engines with specification suffix "D" and later.
The larger exhaust valve , bigger intake port and bigger #30 carburetor allows
for more air to enter and exit out of the combustion chamber so the engine
will produce full 14hp at 3,600 RPM. By the way - The early K321 engine with
the small intake port and small exhaust valve make a good stock 4,000 RPM
stock competition pulling engine, but the later K321 engine with the big
intake port and big exhaust valve make an excellent open RPM competition
pulling engine.
-
The third carburetor is a number "30". It was originally designed and
manufactured by the
Carter Carburetor Corporation, then later manufactured
by Kohler Engines. It is used on the later model K321, M14 (later K321's,
meaning with the 1-3/8" diameter exhaust valve; the early K321's had the
1-1/8" exhaust valve), K341, M16 and K582 engines. It has a 30mm or 1.200"
diameter throttle bore and the venturi is 1.000" diameter. This original
fully adjustable Kohler #30 carburetor with the 1.2" throttle bore (OEM Kohler
part # 45 053 20-S) and the Walbro WHG #60, #64 replacement carburetor OEM
Kohler part # 47 853 30-S) for the K321, M14 and K341, M16 engines are
discontinued from Kohler.
-
There's another #30 carburetor
designed specifically for the Kohler engine model K582. The throttle shaft
is positioned horizontally and the idle fuel mixture screw is directly on
top of the carburetor body instead of at an angle on the side. This OEM Kohler
carburetor is discontinued from Kohler L, but
is available in aftermarket as the Kohler-replicated fully adjustable #28
carburetor with a 1.17" throttle bore J. FYI:
Lots of people advertise online that the carburetor for the K482 and K532
can also be used on the K582. But I know for a fact that if the K482 and
K532 carburetor is used on the K582, which produces 24hp with the correct
carburetor, would produce about 21hp and make less torque, because the engine
would be drawing less air through the smaller carburetor to produce not as
much compression. I guess the seller don't know the difference between these
carburetors, because they look virtually identical on the outside. Or maybe
the seller figures what most people don't know, makes them more money.
-
Lastly, there's another type of Kohler #30 carburetor. Its throttle bore
measures 32mm/1.25" and the venturi is 1.062" diameter. Otherwise, it's identical
in every other way to the (1.2") #30 carburetor above
È. It's used only on Kohler engine model
K361. This carburetor is discontinued from Kohler and is not available in
aftermarket L. However, The carburetor for
the K341 engine (Kohler part # 45 053 20-S), which have a venturi diameter
of 1", can be used on the K361 engine, but the venturi will need to be bored
to 1.062" so the K361 will produce full power at 3,600 RPM.
-
NOTE: If a too large of a carburetor is used on a smaller engine, not
enough velocity (rapid movement) of air can be drawn through the carburetor
at higher RPM. Therefore, the insufficient amount of moving air cannot draw
(vacuum) enough fuel from the main fuel nozzle to sufficiently feed the engine.
The exception of this rule is if the engine has oversize valves (larger than
factory-installed valves), then there should be enough vacuum to draw sufficient
amount of air through the carburetor.
By the way - the part number of all Kohler-made and Walbro carburetors are
stamped on the right side of the mounting flange. Don't refer to the numbers
just below the fuel inlet port. They represent nothing that I know of. Click
here to identify a Kohler or Walbro carburetor and matching parts:
Kohler
Carburetor Reference Manual TP-2377-E.pdf. (require
Adobe
Acrobat Reader and use
Google
Chrome web browser for a faster download of websites with large
files.) If there's no numbers anywhere on the carburetor body,
then it's definitely an aftermarket carburetor. Because Carter, Kohler and
Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on the flange of all their carburetors.
Airflow / CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) -
-
The venturi in a stock Carter or Kohler #26 carburetor measures .808" diameter
and flows 74 CFM. With the venturi 100% bored-out (1.07" straight-through
throttle bore), it will flow a minimum 98 CFM, which is approximately 1/3
greater or 32% increase in airflow.
-
The venturi in a stock Carter #28 carburetor measures .937" diameter and
flows 86 CFM. With the venturi 100% bored-out (1.17" straight-through throttle
bore), it will flow a minimum 107 CFM, which is approximately .244 greater
or 25% increase in airflow.
-
The venturi in a stock Carter or Kohler #30 carburetor measures 1.000" diameter
and flows 92 CFM. With the venturi 100% bored-out (1.2" straight-through
throttle bore), it will flow a minimum 110 CFM, which is approximately .309
greater or 31% increase in airflow.
-
A Carter or Kohler #26, #28 or #30 carburetor with a .995" bored-out venturi
will flow approximately 91 CFM, and with a 1" bored-out venturi, it will
flow approximately 92 CFM.
-
The venturi in a stock Kohler engine model K361 #30 carburetor measures 1.062"
diameter and flows 97 CFM. With the venturi 100% bored-out (1.25"
straight-through throttle bore), it will flow a minimum 114 CFM, which is
approximately .175 greater or 18% increase in airflow.
-
FYI - A bored-out venturi and reworked carburetor is when it's modified
for maximum performance for competition pulling only. And a #26 carburetor
with a 100% bored-out venturi will flow more air and out-perform a stock
(non-bored) #28 or #30 carburetor at open RPM/wide open throttle operation.
FYI - The throttle bore in the Carter or Kohler #26/1.07" carburetors
can be bored to 1.17" (#28 size) or 1.2" (#30 size), and the main jet/nozzle
(emulsion tube) will still bottom out against the throttle bore, and of course,
a 1.17" or 1.2" throttle shaft and plate would need to be used. But the boring
process will break through the idle fuel mixing well (the idle progression
holes and the welch plug hole) that's next to the throttle plate. Modifications
to this area would need to be made by threading in an 1/8" Allen pipe plug
where the welch plug is (or was), and drilling and installing a small brass
or copper tube from the idle fuel mixture adjuster screw down into the float
bowl, next to the float, with enough clearance so it won't interfere with
the movement of the float. A 1/4-28 UNF x 3/4" thread length bolt will also
need to be installed where the high speed air/fuel needle adjuster is (was)
to block off a vacuum leak to will occur with the modifications of the idle
air/fuel mixing well. Actually, it would be MUCH easier and less cost effective
to just convert either a Carter or Kohler #28 or #30 carburetor for high
performance use and not having to do anything to modify the idle fuel
passageway.
Boring-out of the venturi in the carburetor alone will not help to increase
engine performance. To increase the overall airflow in and out of the combustion
chamber for improved engine performance, and if sanctioning club's rules
allow this, the intake (and exhaust) port runners must be enlarged, too.
This is called "porting an engine." The [stock size] valves will also need
to be reworked and undercut to increase airflow. Or larger reworked and undercut
valves and a cam with more lift and duration will need to be used.
For competition pulling, carburetor design and size depends on port sizes,
valve sizes, if the intake valve and seat have 30º/31º angles and
undercut heads, and the cam profile (lift and duration) is important. If
an engine has stock ports, valves and cam, a plain stock carburetor can be
used. But if the ports and valves have been reworked for more airflow, and
a bigger cam is going to be used, then a bored-out carburetor with a .995"
or 1" venturi can be used for best performance. A bored-out venturi and reworked
carburetor is when the carburetor is modified for maximum performance for
general yard and garden use, and/or for competition pulling.
The 26mm carburetor obviously has a smaller throttle bore. Therefore, is
restricted as to how much air can flow through it, even with the venturi
removed. It'll work excellent on a hot K241 or mild K301 engine, but the
larger 28mm and 30mm carburetors flows more air, 7.7% more for the 28mm,
and 15.5% more for the 30mm. Which are ideal for a hot K301 and larger engines
with porting, polishing, bigger valves and a big cam. If you feel that a
single 30mm carburetor won't flow enough air for your particular engine,
then either a "Super Carb," Dellorto, Mikuni, S&S Super D or twin Kohler
carburetor setup (on a "Y" intake) should be used. If you have a K321 Kohler
engine, and you can't find a #28 or #30 carburetor, then a Carter or Kohler
#26 carburetor will work just fine for general lawn and garden use. Personally,
I ran a stock Kohler #26 on the K321 Kohler engine that's on my 6,000 lb.
self-propelled pulling sled for 10 years and the engine didn't lack any power
whatsoever.
Identification and Information About Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 Carburetors
-
The Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64
carburetors originally come on all Magnum engines. These carburetors are
direct replacements for the Kohler carburetors. The Walbro #52 carburetor
has a throttle bore diameter of 1.07" and is designed for use on models K241,
M10, K301, M12, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design),
KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20 engines. And the Walbro
#60 or #64 carburetor have a throttle bore diameter of 1.2" and is designed
for the K321, M14, K341, M16 engines, and being the 1.25" Kohler carburetor
that was originally designed for the K361 engine is longer available, the
only option is to use the Walbro #60 or #64 carburetor.
The older Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors are reliable and they seem
to last a long time before requiring service. Most older Walbros are worth
rebuilding, because the float valve seats are made of hardened solid bronze,
which is actually harder than cast iron. They were manufactured back in the
day when most business owners took pride in their products and offered their
customers a quality product.
But the newer Walbro carburetors, especially the ones that come on recently-built
aluminum block small air-cooled engines, are notorious for leaking gas after
several years of use. Although overhaul/rebuild carburetor kits are available,
it really does no good to rebuild them and install a new fuel inlet valve
because the float valve seat is made of soft brass, which erodes with use
due to microscopic particles of dirt/debris that pass through the filtering
material in the fuel filter, and in most Walbro carburetors, the seat is
not replaceable. The fuel inlet seat in older Walbro carburetors are made
of hardened compressed bronze, which is actually harder than cast iron. There
is no indication or records of when Walbro made the change from the hard
seat to the soft seat.
The fine mesh filter screen
and filtering material in fuel filters can only block certain size of dirt
and debris from entering the carburetor. Any extremely tiny particles that
can pass through the fuel filter will build up in the bottom of the float
bowl and can eventually clog the main fuel jet. Lightweight and suspended
particles in the fuel of the float bowl gets sucked up through the main jet
and is burned in the combustion chamber. The best way to remove built-up
stuck and stubborn debris from inside the float bowl is to use a 2" brass
wire cup brush (shown to the right ->) with a hand-held power drill, and
then use 150± P.S.I. compressed air with an
air blow gun nozzle to clear out the debris from the main
jet hole and clear out the entire float bowl area of the carburetor. On very
rare occasions, a hair can pass through a fine mesh fuel filter screen and
become lodged (trapped) between the float valve and inlet seat, causing the
carburetor to slightly flood with gas. When this happens, the hair can be
successfully removed with 150± P.S.I. compressed air and an air blow
gun nozzle and the same float valve and seat can be reused because chances
are, they will not be damaged.
To put it in plain English: If your Walbro carburetor doesn't leak gas
out the choke end, but need an overhaul/rebuild, then it may be worthwhile
to install a new kit. But if it does leak gas, then I doubt that a new float
valve will fix the problem. Your only options are: install a
fuel shut-off valve and turn off the fuel every
time the engine is not in use, or install a rebuilt Carter or Kohler K-series
carburetor.
About 90% of small engine carburetors are manufactured by Walbro nowadays,
and I don't think that one is better than the other. The trick to getting
the soft brass seat (and needle/float valve) to last longer is to use a fuel
filter with a very fine mesh or pleated paper element. The finer, the better.
Because it's the microscopic dirt/debris/grit that passes through the filter
that causes the seat (and needle/float valve) to erode and wear. And every
pressed-in brass seat that I've replaced ALWAYS leaked gas. There's just
no way to get them to seal with the carburetor body, not even with
high strength liquid thread locker.
The only problem using a Walbro on a pulling tractor or for high performance
application is they can't be bored-out or modified in any way because the
throttle bore wall (where the venturi is located) is too thin. Therefore,
they're limited to how much air can flow through them. The US government
EPA laws required that Kohler and all other small engine manufacturers redesign
their carburetors so the engine will produce less air pollution. So they
started using a redesigned emissions-controlled, EPA-approved Walbro carburetor
with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet. This is to prevent people from setting
the air/fuel ratio too rich and create more air pollution. The older-designed
Walbros that have an adjustable main jet, which is located on the lower right
side of the carburetor, are still available new. main jets of various sizes
are available for most carburetors with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet so
the engine will run correctly depending on the altitude level,
atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine will
be used.
A small engine with a fixed, non-adjustable high speed main jet carburetor
is supposed to run at a maximum of 3,200 RPM. If the RPM is set higher, the
air/fuel mixture will lean out (too much air and not enough fuel), resulting
in the engine overheating, which will eventually cause the cylinder head
to burn-out, or premature wear to the piston and rings, resulting in the
engine burning crankcase oil. The way around this is to drill out the high
speed main jet a few thousandths of an inch to give the engine more fuel.
But only do this if it's absolutely necessary! If an engine lacks sufficient
power at 3,200 RPM, then it obviously needs a professional valve job performed
and/or major tune-up.
(Added 7/18/20) If a small engine cylinder head is burned
out (usually close to the exhaust valve), if it's burned out where the gasket
seals, as long as there's no cracks in the head, it can be successfully welded
up, machined flat, the bolt hole redrilled and be put back into service.
The following items are what causes cylinder head burn-out...
-
Loose head bolts or nuts (with studs). Always torque head bolts or nuts
in the correct sequence and to the proper torque value. Apply
high temperature/high strength liquid threadlocker on threads
of studs to prevent them from loosening in the engine block.
-
Head warpage caused by clogged cooling fins (grass, debris, etc.), or head
milled too thin, which will create an air gap between the head bolts or
nuts/studs.
-
Too lean of carburetor high speed air/fuel mixture at full governed speed.
-
Severely worn throttle shaft in carburetor. This will lean out the high speed
air/fuel mixture at full governed speed. (A new bronze bushing will need
to be installed, and a new throttle shaft may need to be installed as
well.)
-
High speed air/fuel mixture set too lean on a Carter, Kohler or fully adjustable
Walbro carburetor.
-
If engine has a Walbro carburetor with a fixed/non-adjustable high speed
main jet and was running above 3,200 RPM, this will severely lean out the
high speed air/fuel mixture. (This is a common thing with the fixed high
speed main jet Walbro carburetors).
-
Vacuum leak at the carburetor mounting gasket, resulting in a lean air/fuel
mixture.
Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors work great for ordinary lawn and
garden equipment, general lawn work and they're perfect for basic stock low
RPM/low performance pulling tractors with an engine that's governed to a
maximum of 3,200 RPM with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet, or at 3,600 RPM
with an adjustable main jet. A carburetor with a fixed/non-adjustable main
jet is limited to just 3,200 RPM and should never be operated faster for
an extended length of time. Although the venturi cannot be bored-out on a
Walbro, they work equally as well as the older Carter or Kohler carburetors
when used on a stock engine. The main jet in the newer Walbro WHG #52, #60
and #64 carburetors are calibrated at the factory to provide the engine with
just the right amount of fuel at 3,200 RPM. Therefore, the fixed/non-adjustable
main jet inside the carburetor cannot be replaced with an adjustable one.
Advertisement: (Prices are subject to change without notice.)
Click here to contact A-1 Miller's
Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing,
and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance
and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need
a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in
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If a small engine cylinder head is burned out (usually close to the exhaust
valve), as long as there's no cracks in the head, it can be successfully
welded up, machined flat, the bolt hole redrilled and be put back into service.
-
Professionally weld-up burned-out area in cylinder head, machine flat ,and
bolt hole redrilled. $60.00 welding and labor each, plus return shipping
& handling.
NOTE - If it's repairable, please do not discard your cylinder head or
other OEM Kohler parts. Most discontinued Kohler parts in good,
usable/rebuildable condition are hard to find nowadays, and nothing works
better than the original part(s) the engine was designed for. |
High
Quality Inductive Handheld Small Engine Wireless Tachometer. For
gas/spark ignite engines only. Very accurate. This handheld analog tachometer
works great for checking/setting the RPM on various small engines in the
shop, and/or for checking/setting the RPM [tech] on stock governed engines
at pulling events, ATVs/UTVS, etc. Hold sensor (antenna) close to spark plug
wire for reading. Operates off a self-contained replaceable 9 volt battery.
Has built-in battery voltage check. Reads up to 5,000 RPM on the low scale,
and 15,000 RPM on the high scale.
-
$85.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
High Quality Inductive
Small Engine Tachometer and Hour Meter. High quality and very accurate.
Large 3/8 inch LCD display. Works with all spark ignition engines by selecting
engine type using S1 and S2 buttons. Instructions included. Tachometer reads
up to 99,999 RPM. Hour meter reads up to 9999:59 hours/minutes. Can be manually
reset to Zero hours. Programmable maintenance hour setting with service icon,
a reminder when to change the crankcase oil or other service. Easy installation:
Single wire wraps around spark plug wire and secured with two supplied nylon
zip-ties. No wire terminal connections required. Tachometer can be
surface-mounted and secured with two screws. Has built-in battery rated up
to 4 years. Sealed unit; weather and water resistant. Dimensions: 2" wide
x 1-3/4" depth x 3/4" height.
-
$20.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
High Quality
Digital Tachometer/Proximity Sensor Kits. Will work with small engines
or automotive engines, gas or diesel. Very accurate. Designed to be permanently
mounted to monitor engine RPM at all times. This precision digital tachometer
operates with external power and on the same principle as my
crank trigger ignition
with a proximity sensor to detect a target, which can be a small ferrous
steel screw or pin, or magnet in a rotating disc or on/in flywheel. A sturdy
steel or aluminum bracket will need to be fabricated by customer to mount
the sensor in close proximity of the detector/trigger target. Set air
gap/clearance at .010"-.188". Tachometer can be dash- or panel-mounted.
Tachometer works with 8-24 volts DC, proximity sensors works with 6-36 volts
DC. Tachometer can be dash- or panel-mounted. Tachometer works with 8-24
volts DC external power, proximity sensors works with 6-36 volts DC external
power. Dimensions of each proximity sensor below: 15/32" (12mm) diameter
x 1-3/8" thread length. Some proximity sensors have an LED (Light Emitting
Diode) on the rear of unit. If the proximity sensor is wired incorrectly,
the LED will stay on and go off when activated. Displays up to 9,999 RPM.
Very accurate. Tachometer returns to zero [0000] when power is turned off.
Wiring Instructions: #1 wire on tachometer connects to brown wire on (either)
proximity sensor and ignition switch (battery positive (+) post), #2 wire
on tachometer connects to blue wire on (either) proximity sensor and
engine/chassis ground (battery negative () post), and #5 wire on tachometer
connects to black wire on (either) proximity sensor. Wires #3 and #4 connects
to nothing. Wiring can also be integrated with
crank trigger ignition
with a proximity sensor. Choice of
RED or
BLUE numeric display.
-
Tachometer only. To be used with a 3-wire hall effect, inductive or cube-shape
proximity sensor. $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Complete Kit with Hall Effect Proximity Sensor. (Senses the South pole of
a small magnet embedded in an aluminum rotating locking collar or disc.)
$22.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Complete Kit with Inductive Proximity Sensor. (Senses the head of a small
steel screw in a rotating locking collar, disc or flywheel.) $25.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
[Return To Previous Paragraph or
Section]
|
Carter or Kohler or Walbro Fully Adjustable main jet Carburetors VS. Walbro
Fixed/Non-Adjustable Main Jet Carburetor RPM to Horsepower specifications
-
-
A Kohler K141 factory stock engine with a Carter or Walbro fully adjustable
main jet carburetor and top speed set at 3,600 RPM, will produce 6¼hp.
But with a Walbro fixed/non-adjustable main jet carburetor and top speed
set at 3,200 RPM, it'll produce 5.6hp.
-
A Kohler K160/K161, KV161 and
L160/L161 factory
stock engine with a Carter or Walbro fully adjustable main jet carburetor
and top speed set at 3,600 RPM, will produce 6.6hp. But with a Walbro
fixed/non-adjustable main jet carburetor and top speed set at 3,200 RPM,
it'll produce 5.9hp.
-
A Kohler K181,
L181 or M8 factory stock engine with a Carter or Walbro fully adjustable
main jet carburetor and top speed set at 3,600 RPM, will produce 8hp. But
with a Walbro fixed/non-adjustable main jet carburetor and top speed set
at 3,200 RPM, it'll produce 7.1hp.
-
A Kohler K241 or M10 factory stock engine with a Carter or Kohler or Walbro
fully adjustable main jet carburetor and top speed set at 3,600 RPM, will
produce 10hp. But with a Walbro fixed/non-adjustable main jet carburetor
and top speed set at 3,200 RPM, it'll produce 8.9hp.
-
A Kohler K301 or M12 factory stock engine with a Carter or Kohler or Walbro
fully adjustable main jet carburetor and top speed set at 3,600 RPM, will
produce 12hp. But with a Walbro fixed/non-adjustable main jet carburetor
and top speed set at 3,200 RPM, it'll produce 10.7hp.
-
A Kohler K321 or M14 factory stock engine with a Carter or Kohler or Walbro
fully adjustable main jet carburetor and top speed set at 3,600 RPM, will
produce 14hp. But with a Walbro fixed/non-adjustable main jet carburetor
and top speed set at 3,200 RPM, it'll produce 12.4hp.
-
A Kohler K341 or M16 factory stock engine with a Carter or Kohler or Walbro
fully adjustable main jet carburetor and top speed set at 3,600 RPM, will
produce 16hp. But with a Walbro fixed/non-adjustable main jet carburetor
and top speed set at 3,200 RPM, it'll produce 14.2hp.
-
A Kohler MV16 opposed twin cylinder engine with a Kohler or Walbro fully
adjustable main jet carburetor and top speed set at 3,600 RPM, the engine
will produce 16hp. But with a Walbro fixed/non-adjustable main jet carburetor
and top speed set at 3,200 RPM, it'll produce 14.2hp.
-
A Kohler M18 or MV18 opposed twin cylinder engine with a Kohler or Walbro
fully adjustable main jet carburetor and top speed set at 3,600 RPM, will
produce 18hp. But with a Walbro fixed/non-adjustable main jet carburetor
and top speed set at 3,200 RPM, it'll produce 16hp.
-
A Kohler KT17 or KT17 Series II opposed twin cylinder engine with a Kohler
or Walbro fully adjustable main jet carburetor and top speed set at 3,600
RPM, will produce 17hp. But with a Walbro fixed/non-adjustable main jet
carburetor and top speed set at 3,200 RPM, it'll produce 15.1hp.
-
A Kohler KT19 or KT19 Series II opposed twin cylinder engine with a Kohler
or Walbro fully adjustable main jet carburetor and top speed set at 3,600
RPM, will produce 19hp. But with a Walbro fixed/non-adjustable main jet
carburetor and top speed set at 3,200 RPM, it'll produce 16.9hp.
-
A Kohler M20 or MV20 opposed twin cylinder engine with a Kohler or Walbro
fully adjustable main jet carburetor and top speed set at 3,600 RPM, will
produce 20hp. But with a Walbro fixed/non-adjustable main jet carburetor
and top speed set at 3,200 RPM, it'll produce 17.8hp.
Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors with a fixed/non-adjustable main
jet are designed with emission controls in mind to run leaner to create less
air pollution. However, the main problem with most Walbros having a
fixed/non-adjustable main jet is during cooler weather operation. During
cool weather, and running at 3,200 RPM, the engine will sometimes run too
lean on fuel and operate erratically. To fix this, first of all, make sure
the hole (orifice) in the main jet is not partially clogged. If it is, use
a
carburetor jet cleaner wire set or an
oxy-acetylene welding torch tip cleaner to clear any debris
that may be lodged in the hole. IMPORTANT:
When cleaning the hole (orifice) in the main jet, use a wire cleaner of the
correct size, and be careful not to enlarge the hole, or the engine may run
too rich on fuel! This cannot be undone! Then use 150±
P.S.I. compressed air with an
air blow gun nozzle to clear out any dirt/debris. If the
engine still runs too lean on fuel, simply enlarge the hole (orifice) in
the main jet a few thousandths of an inch. Then use 150± P.S.I. compressed
air with an air blow gun nozzle to clear out any metal particles. Be careful
not to enlarge the hole (orifice) in the main jet too much, or the engine
will run rich on fuel! The hole (orifice) diameter in the OEM factory
main jet for 100% gasoline is 3/64" (.047"). If necessary, enlarge the main
jet and fuel inlet holes with a #55 (.052") drill bit. That's a .0052"
difference. After doing this, for cool weather, the engine should run better,
last longer and produce more power. But don't enlarge the hole (orifice)
in the main jet too much! A too big of a hole (orifice) will cause an engine
to run too rich on fuel, making it blow black smoke out the exhaust and possibly
fouling the spark plug. If the hole (orifice) is made too large, the carburetor
will be useless for gasoline, and E85 fuel must be used. But if an engine
is going to be used only during warm weather and if it runs okay [during
warm weather], don't enlarge the hole (orifice) in the main jet.
On the newer carburetors with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet, the hole (orifice)
in the main jet may need to be enlarged .002"-.003" to give the engine a
little more fuel so it'll run better at higher RPM. Otherwise, the engine
could "burn up" or wear out prematurely due to the lean air/fuel mixture.
I have an assortment of tiny drill bits that I use on our customer's lawn
& garden equipment carburetors.
A new
style Walbro carburetor with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet should never
be used on a non-governed (wide-open throttle) engine or on an engine that's
going to turn at 3,200 RPM! The reason for this is because if an engine operates
faster with a carburetor having a fixed/non-adjustable main jet, it'll run
too lean on fuel at high RPM (it'll draw much more air than fuel), which
will cause the combustion chamber to overheat and the excessive heat will
likely damage the piston and rings and possibly warp the cylinder head and/or
exhaust valve or even crack the cast iron engine block.
A lean fuel mixture can also melt away part of the
aluminum in the combustion chamber of an aluminum block engine.
The size number on the Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors is embossed
inside the carburetor and can be seen by looking inside the upper part of
the choke end, just above the venturi. A "52" carburetor has a 26mm diameter
throttle bore, which converts closely to 1.024 inches (26 ÷ 25.4 = 1.024"),
but actually measures 1.07".
And being the venturi in the
old-style Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors used on Kohler
engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, KV161,
L160/L161,
L181, K181 can't be bored-out either, the only option for pulling
competitively with these is to fabricate an adapter to fasten to the intake
port on the engine block and use a #52 Walbro or #26 Carter or Kohler carburetor.
The best way to determine which engine any particular carburetor is made
for is to measure the diameter of the throttle bore. Because a set of numbers
that's stamped on the carburetor body mean nothing, not even to Kohler Engine
dealers. If a carburetor measures .822" (13/16"), then it's designed for
the K141, K160/K161,
L160/L161,
L181, K181 engines. If it measures 1.07", then it's for the 10hp
or 12hp engines. And if it measures 1.17" or 1.2", it's for a K321, K341
or K361 engine.
The Wrong Type of Choke Lever!
Whenever I get a carburetor with the choke lever in the wrong position, if
it has a steel choke shaft, I just grind the lever off at the flare and weld
it back on the shaft in the right position. But if it has a brass shaft,
I use a steel choke shaft out of a junk carburetor. Or if I don't have a
used one in stock, I machine a steel choke shaft from a 1/4" mild steel rod.
Like the old saying goes: "There's more than one way to skin a cat."
The Unknown and Tricky Choke Shaft Detent Ball and Spring -

The choke shaft detent ball is a tiny 1/8" (Carter or Kohler
carburetors) or 5/32" (Walbro carburetors) steel ball, and the detent spring
is a small, stout 1/8" or 5/32" diameter compression spring located inside
the air cleaner mounting hole at the 9:00 position when facing the choke
end with the float area down. Certain Walbro carburetors have the ball and
spring located at the 3:00 position. The detent ball and spring is under
pressure by the choke shaft, and is held in the open position by an indention
(small shallow hole) in the shaft. The detent ball and spring are required
only for hand-operation of the choke plate to keep it in the open position
on stand-alone engines without a remote cable control, such as a competition
garden pulling tractor, garden tiller, generator/welder, air compressor,
water pump, etc. If the choke is operated by a cable, such as on a lawn &
garden tractor, then these parts aren't needed and will serve no purpose
whatsoever. Before removing the choke shaft from the carburetor body, and
to prevent the detent ball (and possibly spring) from popping out and getting
lost, using your left hand, hold your thumb over the screw hole and index
or middle finger over the end of the choke shaft hole, then slowly and gently
pull the choke shaft out of the hole, watching that the ball don't pop out
and get lost. Replace these if lost so the choke will stay open while the
engine is running.
Installing the choke shaft over the friction (detent) ball and spring
can be tricky. This is how it's performed -
-

Place the carburetor on a sturdy work bench or table, or gently
clamped level it in a bench vise with the choke end facing upward and the
float bowl facing toward you.
-
Carefully install the ball and spring in the threaded air cleaner/filter
assembly mounting hole located at the 9:00 position. Certain Walbro carburetors
have the ball and spring located at the 3:00 position. Make sure the ball
is centered with the spring.
-
To install the choke shaft, it may be able to slide over the ball and compress
the spring. If not, then use a 3/32"
roll pin punch (with a blunt end) to firmly compress the
ball/spring so the choke shaft will slide over the ball.
-
Gently push the choke shaft in the hole until it makes contact with the punch,
then at the same time while still pushing on the shaft, reposition the punch
at an angle (toward your right for the 9:00 position), then slowly pull up
on the punch at the same time continuing pushing the shaft through the hole
so the shaft can slide over the ball. Make sure your finger is still over
the end hole!
-
The end of the shaft should now be flush with the outside of the carburetor
body. You should feel the friction/pressure that the ball/spring is placing
on the shaft. If so, then gently rotate the shaft to feel the ball "catch"
in the indention in the shaft.
-
If this goes well, install the choke plate and apply clean motor oil through
the screw holes for smooth choke operation and less wear to the shaft and/or
carburetor body.
How to adjust the fuel mixture screws on
a Kohler (or virtually any small engine) fully adjustable carburetor
- [Top of Page]
Operation of the Slow- and Mid-Range Carburetor Functions -
At idle speed, the engine operates
only through the idle fuel passageway. As a metered amount of air is drawn
through slow air bleed jets, fuel is drawn through main jet and further metered
through slow jet. Air and fuel are mixed in body of slow jet and exit to
idle progression (transfer port) chamber. From idle progression chamber,
air fuel mixture is metered through idle port passage. At low idle air/fuel
mixture is controlled by setting of idle fuel adjusting screws. This mixture
is then mixed with main body of air and delivered to engine. As throttle
plate opening increases, greater amounts of air/fuel mixture are drawn in
through fixed and metered idle progression holes. As throttle plate opens
further, vacuum signal become great enough at venturi so main circuit begins
to work.
Operation of the High Speed Main Jet -
At high speeds/loads engine operates on main circuit. As a metered amount
of air is drawn through air jet, fuel is drawn through main jet. Air and
fuel are mixed in main nozzles then enters main body of air flow where further
mixing of fuel and air occurs. This mixture is then delivered to combustion
chamber. Carburetor has a fixed main circuit; no adjustment is possible.
If the engine runs well at idle and at higher RPM, don't worry about how
the idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustment screws are set. Carburetor
adjustments depend on the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure
and air temperature where the engine will be operated. In higher elevations,
air is thin or less dense. Therefore, the engine requires more air than fuel
to run well. But in lower elevations, air is heavy or dense, and because
of this, the engine requires less air than fuel. So there is obviously no
"one set adjustment" for all carburetors in all areas. And no new or rebuilt
carburetor with adjustable jet(s) for small engines, automotive or whatever,
come from the manufacturer or rebuilder with the idle speed, idle air/fuel
mixture or the high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments set correctly. This
is true for ordinary lawn and garden, and all small engines, and competition
pulling engines alike, with the exception of [Walbro] carburetors with the
fixed/non-adjustable high speed jet.
How the Idle Fuel Passageway Works in the Carter and Kohler Carburetors
-
On the Carter or Kohler (and Walbro) carburetors, the hole towards the bottom
of the long main needle adjuster is supposed to be open and not clogged,
so the engine can draw fuel through it for idling from the float bowl. The
idle fuel passageway for a Carter or Kohler carburetors goes as follows:
Fuel is first drawn through the lower end via the tiny hole(s) (orifice)
on the high speed needle adjuster, then through engine vacuum, fuel is drawn
up through the tube, and over and down toward the idle air/fuel mixture screw
(which sets at an angle), and then fuel is drawn into the throttle bore,
next to the throttle plate. The information mentioned below
Ê is mainly for Carter or Kohler carburetors.
The fuel mixture screws are used as follows:
-
There's three adjusting screws:
-
Idle speed screw. Adjusting this screw controls the idle speed of the engine.
It makes contact with the throttle lever.
-
Idle air/fuel mixture screw. This is adjusted ONLY when the engine is operating
at a lower/slow idle speed.
-
High speed air/fuel mixture screw. This is adjusted ONLY when the engine
is operating at higher/fast RPM. (Well above idle.) Fuel is not drawn
through the idle fuel passageway at higher RPM, and adjusting the idle fuel
mixture screw has no effect how well the engine runs at higher RPM.
-
After lightly bottoming out both fuel mixture screws, rotate each
one 1-1/2 to 2 turns out. This is the initial setting just to get the engine
running. Final adjustment can be made so the engine will run smoothly.
-
On some small carburetors (gas string trimmers, chainsaws, etc.), there's
two air/fuel mixture adjusting screws that's located next to each other on
the same side of the carburetor. The one that's closest to the throttle shaft
or plate is usually the idle air/fuel mixture screw. The screw on the side
and at an angle on the Carter or Kohler carburetor is for the idle air/fuel
mixture. It controls the amount of fuel that's mixed with the air at idle
speed. With the engine idling at a slow speed, adjust this one until the
engine runs smooth. Slow the engine RPM down with the idle speed screw and
readjust the idle mixture screw. Repeat this process until the engine runs
so slow, you can count the revolutions every time the piston hits. Then set
the idle speed at factory specifications (usually 1,000-1,200 RPM) so the
dipper on the connecting rod will strike the oil and thoroughly lubricate
the moving parts inside the engine. A slightly fast idle speed will prevent
damage or excessive wear on parts inside the engine.
-
Use a
1/32" high speed steel spiral drill bit or
1/32" end mill to enlarge the [single] lower hole (orifice)
in high speed needle air/fuel adjuster screw in Carter Model N #13, #16,
#18, #20, #22 carburetors, and Carter or Kohler #26, #28 and #30 carburetors
to create more suction for fuel through the tube to help the engine start
quicker (with throttle in idle position), idle smoothly, and idle down upon
deceleration without hesitation or stalling. No need to use this on adjuster
with two lower holes. NOTE: Carefully enlarge the hole by hand
with drill bit clamped in a
mini micro pin vise hand drill chuck. And be careful when
using any tiny drill bit because they can break easily. After enlarging hole,
clear out any metal cuttings from inside the adjuster tube with 150±
P.S.I. compressed air and an air blow gun nozzle. A proven, ingenious and
innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this.
-
The screw on top of the carburetor body or under the float bowl, or next
to the idle mixture screw is for the high speed air/fuel mixture.
It controls the amount of fuel that's mixed with the air at higher RPM (3,600
RPM or
open
RPM/wide open throttle operation). With the engine running at fast speed
(3,600 RPM), slowly rotate this screw one way or the other until the engine
operates smoothly. By the way - the idle mixture screw has nothing to do
with the high speed operation of the engine, and vice-versa.
-
After making the final fuel mixture screw adjustments, set the throttle control
so the (stock) engine will rev at governed speed (3,600 RPM).
-
The adjustments that's mentioned here are not meant for every type of carburetor.
Some adjust differently. If there's instructions, or you're not sure on how
to adjust them, just adjust them until the engine runs smooth.
[Top of Page].

Many times when cleaning a Carter or Kohler carburetor, the
welch plug that's on the side of the carburetor doesn't need to be removed.
The only time it needs to be removed is when the tiny fuel feed hole that's
next to the throttle plate become clogged with dried gas or debris. To clear
this hole, with the idle air/fuel mixture screw and the high speed needle
adjuster removed, thread a 1/4-28 UNF screw/bolt in place of the high speed
needle adjuster (this will place more air pressure against the idle fuel
feed hole), apply 150± P.S.I. compressed air with an
air blow gun nozzle in the idle mixture screw hole, and
place your finger inside the throttle bore over the fuel feed hole, and if
you feel air come out of the hole, the hole is cleared out. If air does come
out of the idle fuel feed hole, then the welch plug will need to be removed
and manually cleared out with a
carburetor jet cleaner wire set or an
oxy-acetylene welding torch tip cleaner. A new welch plug
will need to be installed.
If an engine blows black smoke out the exhaust while running, then here
are the main causes:
Black exhaust smoke is when an engine is getting too much gas and/or not
enough air in the combustion chamber. The causes for this are either... (listed
from most common to rare causes)
-
Choke plate isn't fully opening.
-
Solution: Check for bent choke plate, binding of remote solid wire
cable-controlled choke operation or adjust cable that controls opening/closing
of choke plate.
-
Too rich of fuel mixture adjustment on the carburetor.
-
Solution: Adjust carburetor or repair as needed.
-
Worn float valve (needle and seat).
-
Solution: Install new float valve and seat.
-
Bad float.
-
Solution: Install new or good used float.
-
Float out of adjustment.
-
Solution: Set the float level so it's parallel with the carburetor body
with the carburetor turned upside-down.
-
If the fuel baffle/splash shield is hard and stiff, it can push down on the
float after the float bowl is installed, preventing the float from shutting
off the fuel at the float valve (needle and seat).
-
Solution: Install new fuel baffle/splash shield.
-
Too much fuel pressure if using a high pressure 12 volt
electric fuel pump (more than 4 P.S.I.).
-
Solution: Install an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, set it at maximum
4 P.S.I., or install a low pressure 12 volt
electric fuel pump.
-
Hole (orifice) in the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube) have been drilled too
large.
-
Only one [Kohler or aftermarket] condenser being used with a
high-output/performance ignition coil.
-
Solution: Install two [Kohler or aftermarket] condensers or one automotive
(Chevrolet/GM) distributor condenser.
Also, sometimes flooding of the carburetor will deposit gas in the crankcase
oil, but only in a vertical shaft engine. Because gas can't seep into the
crankcase on horizontal shaft engines. The cause of the problem is the carburetor
is flooding. The gas seeps past the piston ring gaps and into the crankcase.
To fix this, clean the float valve (needle and seat) in the carburetor, or
install a new carburetor overhaul/rebuild kit with a new float valve needle
and seat. Also, clean out the fuel hoses with 150± P.S.I. compressed
air and an
air blow gun nozzle and install a new fuel filter. And
then the crankcase oil will need to be drained and clean/uncontaminated motor
oil installed.
The OEM Kohler Carburetor Intake Air/Fuel
Mixture Baffle Plate -
The purpose of the OEM Kohler
carburetor intake air/fuel mixture baffle plate (discontinued Kohler part
#'s 52 063 40-S and 82 755 24-S) is to atomize (be reduced into smaller
particles) or "swirl" the incoming air/fuel mixture more efficiently at higher
RPM so the engine will produce more horsepower and torque. This part was
made by Kohler of stamped .018" thickness aluminum with inside 45º/angled
tabs/baffles, and installed on certain opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engines
carburetor and intake manifold sandwiched between two (ordinary/.030" thickness)
mounting gaskets. According to the official Kohler engine parts list, this
particular part originally came on Kohler Magnum model M18 engines with
specification numbers: 24620, 24644, 24665, 24666 (all AYP); 24646 (Cub Cadet);
model MV18 engines with specification numbers: 58553, 58556, 58560, 58561
(all AYP); and M20 engines with specification numbers: 49603, 49634 (both
AYP); and model MV20 engines with specification numbers: 57525 (Exmark);
57526 (Yardman); 57527, 57528, 57529 (all AYP). If you're lucky to find one
of these, it can be used on the Kohler single cylinder engine models K241,
M10, K301, M12, K321, K330/K331, M14, K341, M16 and K361 to improve the
performance at higher RPM. This part is guaranteed to work! It showed a slight
increase in horsepower and torque when tested on my personal engine dyno.
It's the next best thing to having a
fuel injected engine.
[Return
To Previous Paragraph or Section]
Information About Using a Carburetor Intake Tube/Spacer (Fuel Atomization
Chamber) -



Using
a fuel atomization chamber intake tube or spacer to distance the carburetor
away from the engine block allows the fuel to atomize better (break down
into smaller particles or a fine mist) so the engine will produce more power
and torque at higher RPM. The further the carburetor is spaced from the engine
block (flathead engines) or cylinder head(s) on OHV engines, the better the
fuel will atomize and the more power the engine will produce at higher RPMs.
It works, and it works great. This is why most makes and models of carbureted
small engines [other than the cast iron block single cylinder Kohler] have
a long intake tube, and why most naturally-aspirated carbureted high performance
automotive V6 and V8 engines use a high-rise intake manifold. Again, it's
the next best thing to having a
fuel injected engine.
A 1" carburetor spacer will definitely help atomize the fuel into smaller
particles so the engine will produce more noticeable power, and it'll help
the engine last longer and burn less fuel. On average, dyno tests had proven
that engines with a 1" spacer produced about 12% more horsepower and torque.
This is why virtually all [aluminum block] Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh,
and other makes and models of small engines use a factory-installed intake
tube. But for some reason, cast iron block single cylinder Kohler engines
are the only ones that didn't come with an intake tube.
When choosing the length of the intake tube, it seems that a 3" length works
best for gas, and 5" length works best for E85 or methanol. Because gas runs
more lean than E85 or methanol, it requires less space or distance to fully
atomize (be reduced into smaller particles), and being E85 and methanol fuels
run richer, they need more space or distance to fully atomize before these
enter the combustion chamber.
For competition pulling, if an association's/club's rules state that no intake
tube can be used with the carburetor, the OEM Kohler carburetor intake air/fuel
mixture baffle plate (as described above) and/or a
heat isolator gasket will work great instead.
The heat isolator gasket isolates the carburetor body from the engine heat
so when the cool fuel from the carburetor makes contact with the warm/hot
engine (intake runner), it will instantly atomize better (be reduced into
smaller particles) before it enters the combustion chamber, which will help
the engine produce more horsepower and torque. Yet again, it's the next best
thing to having a
fuel injected engine.
In addition, "roughing up" the inside of the intake tube will help create
turbulence to "break up" and atomize the fuel better and should help a Kohler
engine produce a few more ponies. This works for automotive engines, and
it should work for Kohler engines as well.

On single cylinder
Kohler competition pulling engines that run at open RPM, when using a mounting
gasket between the intake tube and intake port, due to normal high RPM engine
vibrations, the [somewhat soft] gasket will allow the tube (and carburetor)
to vibrate and possibly cause one half of the intake port (with a huge enlarged
port opening, which weakens the port) to break off. This is based on fact
and has been known to happen. So to prevent this from happening, instead
of using a gasket, a shallow, narrow groove can be machined in one end of
the flange of the tube for a reusable small cross-sectional diameter neoprene
rubber O-ring. The O-ring will take place of the gasket to prevent a vacuum
leak. The O-ring will compress, guaranteeing metal to metal contact to secure
the tube directly to the engine block. The same can be done to a carburetor
mounting flange.
Another way to gain more horsepower and torque at virtually any RPM besides
roughing up the inside of the intake tube is to fabricate a spiral fuel atomizer
from ordinary sheet metal steel. This particular part is made the same length
but a few thousandths bigger in width than the intake tube, twisted one time
(180º), and is fitted snugly inside the intake tube. This is a dyno-proven
add-on and performance modification that increases engine horsepower and
torque by about 5-10%.
Also for competition pulling, with an intake tube in use, mounting gaskets
are not necessary. Just resurface the carburetor mounting flange and ends
of the intake tube (if needed) on a wide, flat
belt- or disc-sander to remove warpage and restore flatness
(use eye protection!), and then apply a thin bead of
clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant with no gasket. When
a gasket is used, the bolts or nuts (with studs) are tightened, the softness
of the gasket could cause the carburetor flange to warp and possibly break.
With no gasket involved, there will be metal to metal contact with the silicone
filling in the open gaps between the two metals, and there is NO WAY the
flange can warp or possibly break! By the way - I've always preferred
to use
clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant for three reasons:
Gaskets don't always seal the irregularities between mating metals, especially
thin metal covers; being it's an adhesive, it bonds parts together, forming
a leak-proof seal; and being it's clear, it makes for a clean and
professional-looking repair job. When applied sparingly, it can't be easily
seen or noticed between the parts.
The Cause of Slight Carburetor Flooding or "Loading Up on Fuel" at Slow
Idle with a High Performance/Long Duration Camshaft -
Sometimes when using a high performance/long duration camshaft, regardless
if the engine has a stock or modified carburetor, if the engine idles for
a long period of time, it may run rich on fuel at a slow idle speed. What
causes this is with a long duration cam, intake vacuum is low and with a
single cylinder engine, being the valves stay open longer, excess fuel builds
up in the carburetor and/or intake tube. All engines with a long duration
camshaft have lower than normal vacuum at slow idle. The longer the duration
a cam has, the lower the vacuum. What causes excess fuel to build up in the
intake is the long duration of the cam lobes holds the [intake] valve open
longer, and at slow idle, pressure of the piston moving upward in the cylinder
blows some of the air/fuel back into the carburetor and/or intake tube. And
as the engine is revved up, raw unburned fuel black smoke (gas) will blow
out the exhaust pipe until the fuel is cleared out of the carburetor and/or
intake tube. With the engine running well above idle, air become trapped
within the combustion chamber and the piston don't have time to push any
air/fuel back into the carburetor and/or intake tube. This happens with all
types of fuels and there's nothing that can be done about it. It's the nature
of the long duration camshaft. Some might think when this happens that there's
something wrong with the carburetor, and nothing can be done to the idle
fuel passageway to prevent this. Just make a simple adjustment with the idle
air/fuel mixture screw, set the engine at a fast idle and don't allow the
engine to idle for a long period of time.
[Return
To Previous Paragraph or Section]
The Major Causes of Carburetor Flooding -
FYI - I don't put any additives in my gas. I think it's a waste of money
and effort, and gives false hope. I filter out the dirt and remove any water
from the [somewhat fresh] left-over gas that's in my customer's small engine
equipment, and dump it in my personal car or truck so it will mix with the
fresh gas that's already in the tank. Then I always use fresh/purchased gas
with no additives in my customer's small engine equipment.
What prevents most carburetor and fuel system from having problems when using
gasoline is to run the engine out of fuel or draining the entire fuel system
if it's not going to be used for more than 30 days at a time. If there's
no fuel left in the system, then there should be no problems. The following
causes are listed from most common to rare.
If fuel drips out of or from the carburetor...
-
Dirt/debris, lint or hair lodged between float valve and seat. This will
prevent the float valve from fully closing against the seat.
-
Solution: Clean float valve and seat, clear out entire fuel system with
150± P.S.I. compressed air and an
air blow gun nozzle and install new fuel filter.
-
Old, deteriorated pleated paper fuel filter. The filtering material is
brittle, can tear easy, which will allow dirt/debris to pass through the
torn opening.
-
Solution: Clean carburetor, clear out entire fuel system with 150±
P.S.I. compressed air and an air blow gun nozzle and install new fuel
filter.
-
Avoid using 150± P.S.I. compressed air and an air blow gun nozzle through
pleated paper fuel filter too many times to clean it out. This will cause
the filtering material to tear, rip or "blow out," allowing dirt/debris to
pass through the torn opening.
-
Solution: Clean carburetor, clear out entire fuel system with 150±
P.S.I. compressed air and an air blow gun nozzle and install new fuel
filter.
-
Worn or damaged fuel inlet valve and/or seat.
-
Solution: New replacement required.
-
Loose float valve seat in carburetor body (if it's the threaded-in type).
Sometimes these are not installed tight enough, resulting in a light flooding
condition.
-
Solution: If tightening the seat doesn't stop the fuel leak, then a new
float valve and seat with a new sealing gasket will need to be installed.
-
Fuel leak at the carburetor float
bowl rubber O-ring seal. Only happens when engine is in operation. Circumference
of float bowl not sealing tight against the
neoprene
rubber O-ring seal and fuel baffle/splash shield in carburetor body.
-
Solution: Remove float bowl, and from inside the bowl, use a small to
medium size hammer to flatten the area around the hole where the bolt fastens
the float bowl to the carburetor body. Doing this will place more pressure
on the circumference of the float bowl against the carburetor body so the
O-ring will seal better. Don't over-tighten the float bowl bolt because the
threads in the carburetor could strip out. Also, make sure the O-ring and
fuel baffle/splash shield are in place when reinstalling the float bowl.
If gas constantly pours out of the carburetor...
-
Bad or damaged float (hole in float). To test for a bad float, if it's
a hollow brass float, remove it from the carburetor and either move it around
in your hand or hold it next to your ear. If you feel and hear a sloshing
sound, then there's gas inside it. NOTE: Repairing by re-soldering a brass
float will most likely not work or last long. NOTE: Do NOT use a
propane torch or small
oxy-acetylene torch to solder a hole in a brass float that
had gas in it! The gas fumes inside WILL cause the float to explode!
-
Solution: New or good/used float replacement is required.
-
Small hole in bottom of float bowl. This happens to aluminum float bowls
and is caused by corrosion from water in the fuel system. Water is heavier
than gas. So it goes below the gas and straight to the carburetor. Water
will corrode an aluminum float bowl. And during winter, it'll freeze in the
float bowl and crush the float.
-
Solution: New replacement of either part is required.
-
Float stuck to bottom of float bowl. This is caused by engine setting
in long term storage
with gas left in the gas tank and carburetor. To prevent this from happening
at all or happening in the future, drain the entire fuel system, then loosen
the float bowl retaining bolt to finish draining all the fuel from the float
bowl.
-
Solution: Cleaning of float and bottom of bowl is required.
The best way to remove built-up
stuck and stubborn debris from inside the float bowl is to use a 2" brass
wire cup brush (shown to the right ->) with a hand-held power drill, and
then use 150± P.S.I. compressed air with an
air blow gun nozzle to clear out the debris from the main
jet hole and clear out the entire float bowl area of the carburetor.
-
Float valve installed incorrectly. (When installing a new overhaul/rebuild
kit.)
-
Solution: The rubber tip (pointed end) goes in the fuel inlet seat and not
against the float.
-
If the carburetor on an engine
has been setting for some time without an air cleaner/filter assembly, and
if gas pours out of the carburetor only when cranking the engine, especially
with a mechanical fuel pump, then the gas stops pouring out when the engine
isn't cranked, check for a clogged atmospheric vent opening (air passageway
from inside the float bowl area to outside of carburetor) in the carburetor.
Sometimes a
mud dauber (wasp-like insect) will build their nest in
a place like this. (I've seen this happen a few times with my customer
carburetor rebuilds.)
-
Solution: Clear out the atmospheric vent opening (air passageway from inside
the float bowl area to outside of carburetor) and entire carburetor with
150± P.S.I. compressed air and an air blow gun nozzle.
-
If a 12 volt electric fuel pump is being
used, it's either producing too much pressure, or if there's a fuel pressure
regulator inline, it's set too high or the valve is stuck in position.
-
Solution: Repair or adjust regulator as needed, set the regulator at maximum
4 P.S.I., or install a low pressure 12 volt
electric fuel pump.
What makes crankcase oil black is blow-by due to either worn piston rings,
carburetor flooding or the engine running rich on fuel (gas). And if there's
gas in the oil (you can smell the presence of gas), this means there's a
hole in the diaphragm in the mechanical fuel pump. Being there are no fuel
pump repair kits available nowadays, an either good used or new replacement
fuel pump is required.
How to Separate Gasoline from Water -
No need to dispose of fresh gas just because it's contaminated with water
(and/or dirt and debris). And with the price of gas nowadays, this would
be a wise thing to do.
-
Drain the water-contaminated gas from the entire fuel system (gas tank, fuel
hose, fuel pump, filter and carburetor) into a clean container of adequate
size. When gas is contaminated with water, the water (and dirt/debris)
should immediately settle to the bottom of the container and the gas will
be on top. You should be able to see the water at the bottom with a bright
light.
-
To separate the gas from the water, carefully pour the gas into another clean
container, but watch that the water don't enter the other container, too.
If there's dirt/debris floating around or suspended in the water-contaminated
gas, place a filtering material, such as a
paint filter,
coffee filter,
fine mesh screen wire,
clean cloth shop towel or a
fine woven fabric window curtain drooped into a
large funnel in a clean container of adequate size, and
pour the gas through the filtering material/funnel, and again, watch that
the water don't enter the other container. The water can be seen under the
gas.
-
NOTE: Adding
gas line anti-freeze (alcohol) breaks up or disperse the
water into tiny droplets throughout the gas, which then pose no freezing.
But if there's A LOT of water in the gas, then the water-contaminated gas
will need to be drained and flushed from the entire fuel system. Being water
is heavier than gas, it will always go to the bottom in a container or gas
tank. With a bright light, you can see the water from the gas in an open
container. The water will be at the bottom and the gas will be on top. The
water can be separated from the gas by using two containers - pour the gas
from the first container into the second container and do not allow the water
get into the second container. The gas can still be reused. If the gas has
any amount of alcohol (10% or
E85), the alcohol
will be absorbed by or mixed with the water, to save the alcohol content
with the gas, pour the 10%/E85 gas/water from the first container through
a genuine (not synthetic)
chamois
leather (real sheep's skin) drooped into the second container. The chamois
must first be soaked with clean gasoline, then the chamois will soak up or
absorb the water and allow the alcohol and gas to pass through. Squeeze the
water from the chamois, hang it up to dry out, and it can be used for next
time.
-
Use 150± P.S.I. compressed air with an
air blow gun nozzle to clear out the remaining
water-contaminated gas from the entire fuel system and use a dry shop towel
or water-absorbing paper towel clamped to a
long needle nosed pliers to soak up the gas/water in the
gas tank. If necessary, use a sealed flashlight (to prevent a possible explosion
due to gas fumes) to see if the tank is 100% dry.
-
Pour the water-free gas back in the gas tank and dispose of the contaminated
water in the container.
Gasoline and alcohol fuels
are both extremely flammable! Use caution and don't smoke, avoid making sparks
or don't have an open flame exposed when working near or with either of them.
Work in a well-ventilated area, too.
By the way - As business is booming, we've been to many competition
garden tractor pulls through the years and noticed that some pulling tractors
leak fuel in places where a fuel leak shouldn't be. Therefore, I think the
safety inspections should include checking the fuel hoses for dry-rotting,
cracks, fuel leaks, loose fittings, etc. (The tractors should have sturdy
wheelie bars, too.) The inspectors should grab hold of the fuel hose(s) with
their hand, bend it and slightly jerk on it to check for durability. This
is very important. Especially in a kid's class. Don't wait until a small
issue become a major problem, then turn in to a catastrophe. If a pulling
club's sanctioning safety rules are enforced, and pullers would build their
tractors right and maintain them regularly, there wouldn't be any injuries,
fires, or fear of a fire.
Click or tap here
to read more about a competition garden pulling tractor catching on
fire.

If an engine won't idle or idles poorly, if it's a Carter or
Kohler carburetor, chances are, there's old, dried gas debris inside the
high speed air/fuel needle adjuster tube. To fix this, first, on an adjuster
with only one lower hole, carefully enlarge the hole with a
1/32" high speed steel spiral drill bit or
1/32" end mill. Then use a small, bendable mild steel wire,
such as a
bread wrapper wire twist tie with the coating stripped
off, to clean out inside the tube. And use the 150± P.S.I. compressed
air with an
air blow gun nozzle to thoroughly clear out the tube. Suck
through the tube with your mouth to make sure it's clear and unclogged. (Proven
method that works.) If performing this won't clear out the tube, then a new
or used unclogged high speed air/fuel needle adjuster screw will need to
be acquired. But make sure it's the correct adjuster for your particular
carburetor!
If an engine idles slow when the throttle lever is held to the slowest
position by hand, but refuses to idle down on its own, the following may
be the causes:
-
Governor spring tension too tight or out of adjustment.
-
Throttle linkage is binding or obstruction in movement of linkage.
-
Clamp on governor lever that's on the governor cross-shaft is out of adjustment.
But if an engine idles well, but runs only at higher RPM (up to 3,200
RPM with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet; or 3,600 RPM with an adjustable
main jet) with the choke partially closed, or if it surges or hesitates to
rev up, this means the engine is running too lean on fuel, and following
are the most likely causes: (listed from most common to rare)
-
Partially clogged hole (orifice) in the main jet, or if the carburetor has
a fixed/non-adjustable high speed main jet, then the hole (orifice) in the
main jet is calibrated too small for the size of engine it's installed on.
-
Solution: Remove carburetor,
remove float bowl and float, and use a
carburetor jet cleaner wire set or an
oxy-acetylene welding torch tip cleaner to clear out the
dried gas and/or dirt/debris from the main jet.
IMPORTANT: When cleaning the hole (orifice) in
the main jet, use a wire cleaner of the correct size, and be careful not
to enlarge the hole, or the engine may run too rich on fuel! This cannot
be undone! But if the engine still runs the same after cleaning
the main jet, then the hole (orifice) in the main jet will need to be slightly
if enlarged a few thousandths of an inch to give the engine a little more
fuel. After cleaning or enlarging the hole (orifice) in the main jet, always
use 150± P.S.I. compressed air with an
air blow gun nozzle to clear the debris and/or metal fragments
from the carburetor.
-
Clogged vent hole in gas cap or the gas tank has the
wrong type of gas cap. Most small engine gas tanks need a vented cap so outside
air can be drawn into the tank as the fuel is depleted.

FYI - If a gas cap is missing the sealing gasket/splash
shield, this part can be made from durable
paper-like gasket material by cutting out a piece so the
outside diameter fits snug inside the cap. Be sure to make a small hole (1/32")
off-center in the gasket for the atmospheric vent to draw air in the tank
as fuel is depleted. And if fuel spews out of the vent hole in the cap (with
the gasket/splash shield installed) with a full tank of gas due to normal
engine vibration, to prevent a possible fire, place a small piece of porous
foam rubber
(reticulated polyurethane foam) between the gasket/splash
shield and vent hole in the cap. The foam will absorb the fuel and block
it from being forced out the vent hole, and it'll allow incoming outside
air to pass through as fuel is depleted in the tank. (A proven, ingenious
and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else online mentions
doing this.)
-
Vacuum leak where the carburetor fastens to the engine block.
-
Solution: First check if the carburetor mounting flange is warped. Use
a wide, flat
belt- or disc-sander/grinder or on the side of an abrasive
metal cutting wheel on a
electric chop saw (the kind that automotive muffler shops
use) to remove warpage and restore flatness. (Be sure to use eye protection!)
If the flange is warped, the sander/grinder will make contact where the bolt
holes are, but not the area between the bolt holes. (Sometimes I use the
side of the abrasive cutting wheel on my
14" electric chop saw with a metal cut-off wheel. Works
great! Extreme care is recommended and be sure to use eye protection!)
-
Worn/loose throttle shaft and/or throttle shaft hole in carburetor body.
-

Solution: If throttle shaft hole in the carburetor body
has a counterbore, install new flat bronze bushing and/or new throttle shaft,
or if no counterbore is present, have throttle shaft hole precision align-bored
for installation of a new bronze sleeve bushing with an [oiled] foam rubber
seal. Click or tap here for more
information.
-
Clogged main jet hole (orifice) in the carburetor.
-
On a Carter or Kohler carburetor, check that the small hole just beneath
the choke plate is clear. It needs to go all the way to the main jet. Spray
some WD40 or aerosol carburetor cleaner in the hole and see if it comes out
the main jet.
-
The problem may be with the ignition, and not in the carburetor. The engine
probably has a weak spark. This will cause it to die upon revving up. At
idle speed, an engine runs on low compression. But upon revving up, more
air (and fuel) is introduced in the combustion chamber, compression is increased,
and this is what makes an engine rev up. The increased air pressure in the
combustion chamber makes higher compression and at an increased/open throttle,
this will literally blow the weak spark out at the spark plug's tip.
-
Solution: install new spark plug, clean or install new points, (clean
the contacts on new points due to oxidation in
long term storage),
install two [Kohler or aftermarket] condensers or one automotive (Chevrolet/GM)
distributor condenser if a high-output/performance coil is being used. Or
the ignition system may be operating off of low voltage from the battery
or defective (low output) charging system.
-
Insufficient main bearing/crankshaft end-play clearance.
-
If a high output/performance ignition coil (Bosch blue coil) is being used,
it require two [Kohler or aftermarket] condensers or one automotive
(Chevrolet/GM) distributor condenser.
-
And you know, I've seen small twigs and sticks get lodged in the gas tank
outlet port. Sometimes mischievous kids will dump dirt and debris in the
tank, too. After 30+ years of repairing lawn mowers for the public, I think
I've seen it all.
FYI - If the spark plug's tip is black and/or has wet gas on it, and if the
carburetor has been thoroughly cleaned (multiple times), but you think the
problem is still in the carburetor, well, the carburetor is probably working
fine because the engine is obviously getting plenty of fuel. As an older,
experienced mechanic once said: "Most carburetor problems are electrical."
Meaning faulty/weak ignition system. This have been proven true more times
than I can remember.
Backfiring out the exhaust upon deceleration is normal for virtually all
engines since gas is still going through the combustion chamber, compressing
in the exhaust and exploding from the exhaust heat. But if an engine constantly
backfires out the exhaust at any speeds after running for several minutes,
the problem may be...
-
Carburetor mounting bolts may be loose.
-
Carburetor mounting flange is warped, causing a vacuum leak.
-
Solution: Resurface the mounting flange on a wide, flat
belt- or disc-sander/grinder or on the side of an abrasive
metal cutting wheel on a
electric chop saw (the kind that automotive muffler shops
use) to remove warpage and restore flatness. (Be sure to use eye
protection!)
-
Hole (orifice) in the main jet in the carburetor could be partially clogged,
resulting in a lean air/fuel mixture.
-
Weak spark. If a high-output/performance [12 volt battery ignition] coil
is being used, then two [Kohler or aftermarket] condensers or one automotive
(Chevrolet/GM) distributor condenser is required so the coil can produce
full voltage at the spark plug's tip.
-
And regardless of which gas is burned in a competition pulling engine, use
only the type of spark plug that's recommended by the manufacturer of the
engine. If the wrong type of plug is used, the engine will lose power.
The fuel solenoid used on newer
Briggs & Stratton, Kohler, etc., engines is located on the bottom of
the float bowl. The spring-loaded plunger in it stops the fuel supply to
the combustion chamber by blocking off the main jet as soon as the ignition
is turned off. With this type of fuel solenoid, the engine will die immediately
when the ignition is turned off. This solenoid also prevents a loud BANG
out the muffler when the ignition is turned off while the engine is hot.
Without it, when the [hot] engine is turned off while throttled up, unburned
gas will continue to pass through the combustion chamber, build up in the
still red-hot muffler where the gas is compressed with hot air, and then
produce a loud BANG out the muffler.
The solenoid is supposed to make a "click" sound when the ignition is turned
on. When in doubt rather it's the solenoid that's defective or bad wiring
on the tractor, the solenoid can be tested with a 12 volt battery. With the
solenoid removed from the carburetor, connect the battery positive (+) post
to the solenoid wire, and connect the battery negative () post to the
body of the solenoid. If the plunger quickly withdraws in the solenoid body,
it's in good condition. If it doesn't withdraw, then the wire connecting
to the solenoid has an open in it.
If the solenoid fails to function, it can be replaced with a new one, or
remove it and simply snip off the protruding pin (plunger rod), and reinstall
it. Doing this will allow the engine to draw fuel and run. But remember to
idle the engine down for a few minutes each time before shutting it off,
or like I said, it may produce a loud BANG out the muffler.
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Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for
FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support
and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or
parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this
website.
Kohler Anti-Backfire/Engine
Shut-Off Solenoid Valve Kit. This anti-backfire solenoid valve fits in
the carburetor and shuts off the engine when the ignition is turned off.
The solenoid is energized the entire time the ignition switch is turned on
to allow incoming air in the float bowl so the engine will run. When the
ignition is turned off, it blocks off the incoming air in the float bowl
to create a vacuum in the float bowl to prevent fuel from entering the combustion
chamber, so the engine eventually shuts down. And with no raw fuel in the
hot muffler, there is no possibility of a backfire. When the solenoid fails
to function, the engine will not start. This particular part is designed
for Kohler engine models K181 with specification numbers 13802, 13803, 13804,
13805, 13806, 13807, 13808, 13809, 13810, 13811, 13812, 13813, 13814, 13815,
13816, 13817, 13818, 13820, 30671, 30715, 30739; M18 with specification numbers
24610, 24637, 24652; M20 with specification numbers 49547, 49564, 49605;
K582 with specification numbers 36246, 36249, 36261, 36266, 36268, 36285,
36310, 36327, 36337, 36350, 36371, 36373, 36374, 36376, 36382, 36392, 24600,
24603. OEM Kohler part # 25 755 05-S. $101.45 each, plus shipping
& handling.
NOTE: Being the solenoid (OEM Kohler part # 25 755 06-S) for Kohler engine
models M18 with specification numbers: 24563, 24568, 24574, 24577, 24592,
24594, 24599, 24619, 24630, 24631, 24636, 24646, 24655, 24656, 24659, 24664,
24674, 24696, 49514, 49544, 49545, 49565, 49569, 49570, 49572; M20 with
specification numbers: 49584, 49595, 49599, 49608, 49623, 49624, 49629; MV20
with specification numbers: 57501-57514, 57527, 57528 is no longer available,
to convert these engines without use of the solenoid, remove the failed solenoid
and valve, cut short 3/8" threads in the hole (remove the float bowl first
and use compressed air with an
air blow gun nozzle to clear out the metal cuttings
afterwards), and install a short 3/8" Allen set screw in the hole. Don't
thread the set screw deep into the hole, or it will block off outside atmospheric
air from entering the float bowl. Without a solenoid and with the conversion,
the engine will require a different ignition switch to shut off the spark.
And the engine should be idled down before shutting it off to lessen the
chance of a backfire out the muffler. |
How To Loosen a Gummed-Up, Stuck, Corroded or Rusted-In-Place Throttle
or Choke Shaft, or Adjusting Screw -
EVAPO-RUST® and
Metal Rescue are very safe products to use and
works wonders to remove rust and loosen virtually any rusted or corroded
metal part! Just soak the carburetor body for 1 hour for light rust and up
to 12 hours for extremely heavy rust. Then use small locking pliers
(Vise Grip) to GENTLY rotate the shaft back and forth
. Don't force it because it could become twisted
and/or break off at the closest plate retaining screw hole! It may rotate
(loosen) just a few thousandths of an inch. After it rotates slightly, spray
it again and gently rotate it again. Eventually, it should rotate more and
swivel 100% free. These products are very safe to use and they work wonders
on virtually anything that's rusted!
Or use a
heavy duty bathroom toilet bowl cleaner. Most of them will
remove rust and scale. If it reads on the label that it will remove rust,
then that's the one to use. Pour the cleaner in a container that's large
enough for the carburetor body, and allow it to soak for about 30 minutes
and then rinse it off with water. The throttle or choke shaft should swivel
with no problems.
Or use distilled
white vinegar to remove rust from the outside of gas tanks, tools,
bolts/nuts, clutch pressure plates or virtually any exterior steel or cast
iron object. Check it out here:
vinegar rust removal - YouTube. Distilled white vinegar
will not remove rust from inside a gas tank because it cannot be "rubbed
loose" by hand from inside the tank.
GUNK Liquid Wrench® also works wonders to loosen virtually
any rusted or corroded metal part! Just spray the ends of the throttle or
choke shaft, let soak for about 30 minutes or perhaps overnight, then use
small locking pliers
(Vise Grip) to GENTLY rotate the shaft back and forth
. Don't force it because it could become twisted
and/or break off at the closest plate retaining screw hole! It may rotate
(loosen) just a few thousandths of an inch. After it rotates slightly, spray
it again and gently rotate it again. Eventually, it should rotate more and
swivel 100% free.
If the shaft(s) refuse to loosen with either Evapo-Rust, Liquid Wrench or
heavy duty bathroom toilet bowl cleaner, remove the float bowl, float, fuel
baffle/splash shield and O-ring seal. Clamp the carburetor in a bench vice,
then use a
propane torch or an
oxy-acetylene torch to LIGHTLY heat the carburetor
body next to the shaft (don't get the carburetor body too hot!), and use
the locking pliers
(Vise Grip) to GENTLY rotate the shaft back and forth
. The shaft should swivel 100% free within a
few seconds of heating. Heating might also work to remove a stuck-in-place
idle speed adjuster screw, idle fuel mixture screw or the main adjuster screw.
Be very gentle rotating a brass screw to loosen it because being brass is
a soft metal, it could snap off! And be careful not to get cast aluminum
too hot, it may crumble or split into pieces! Don't use a torch in an attempt
to remove a stuck main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube) from a carburetor that's
in good condition. Being the aluminum surrounding the main jet/nozzle (emulsion
tube) is thin, it will most likely crumble or split into pieces under the
severe heat, rendering the carburetor useless.
Click here to
learn how to remove the main jet/nozzle.
How to Clean the Inside of a Heavily Rusted or Dirty Metal gas tank
-
Fill the gas tank with
EVAPO-RUST®,
Metal Rescue™, or a
heavy duty bathroom toilet bowl cleaner. Most of these
will remove rust and scale. If it reads on the label that it will remove
rust, then that's the one to use. Leave it for 1 hour for light rust and
up to 12 hours for extremely heavy rust, drain and flush with clean water,
allow to thoroughly dry. These products are very safe to use and they work
wonders on virtually anything that's rusted! Or use
distilled white
vinegar to remove rust from inside gas tanks, tools, bolts/nuts, clutch
pressure plates or virtually any steel or cast iron part:
vinegar rust removal - YouTube.
Another method to clean an internally rusted or especially dirty gas tank,
put some small driveway gravel in the tank with water, seal the fuel outlet
fitting and gas cap vent holes (make sure the gas
cap has a good seal), then literally and vigorously shake the heck out of
it! Or for less tiresome labor, put the gravel and water in the tank, seal
it up, securely tie a blanket around it and then put it in a clothes dryer
or fasten it in an electric paint shaker. Set the dryer on the cold or "No
Heat" setting, and let the dryer tumble or paint shaker shake for a couple
of hours. When the water is drained and majority of the gravel removed, use
a garden water hose to thoroughly clean out inside the tank. It should look
new inside. If there's still some rust or dirt/debris in it, repeat the process
until all the rust or dirt/debris is broken loose. And regardless of what
you may have heard, putting sugar in a gas tank will NOT ruin the engine!
Don't believe in everything you hear. Read about it here:
snopes.com:
Sugar in the gas tank. YouTube link:
Sugar in Your Gas Engine gas tank.
How to Repair a Hole in a Metal Fuel or Oil Storage Tank -
If virtually any kind of
ferrous metal
(steel) tank have a rusted or dented hole in it and leaks fuel or liquid,
it can be successfully repaired by using a quality-made
gas tank sealant. But if the hole is too large for the
sealant, and if the tank is made of steel, a reputable
automotive radiator repair shop can solder a [tin] patch
over the hole. Then ask them to pressure test the tank filled with air submerged
in water to see if the patched hole leaks (bubbles). They usually have
rubber expansion plugs of various sizes to block-off the
inlet and outlet openings or ports.
How to Remove the OEM Carter or Kohler
Soft Brass Throttle or Choke Shaft Retaining Screws Without Breaking Them
Off - [Return To Previous Paragraph
or Section]

First of all, I hate when people throw away a reusable throttle
or choke shaft just because it has a broken off throttle or choke plate retaining
screw in it. The only reason most carburetor manufacturers install soft brass
screws in the throttle and choke shafts is because the protruding threaded
ends can be easily flared to prevent the screws from loosening and becoming
dislodged. This saves the factory money from not having to use lock washers
or liquid threadlocker. A dislodged throttle plate screw could be sucked
into the combustion chamber and become lodged between the intake valve and
seat, bend the exhaust valve, or damage the cylinder head and top of the
piston. But f the OEM soft brass throttle or choke shaft screws do come out
without breaking off, they should never be reused because the area in the
threads can be distorted or over-stretched from being overtightened, which
could cause the screw to eventually break off.
Anyway, when removing these screws and to prevent them from breaking off,
first, grind down the protruding/flared ends with a
Dremel or equivalent small rotary grinder chucked with
either a very small grinding stone
(chainsaw sharpening stone) or an 1/8" high speed steel
end mill until the threads are flush with the shaft. Then
the screws can be easily removed from the shaft without breaking them off.
Be sure to use a quality-made screwdriver with a flat blade and square edge
that fits the slot of the screw head perfectly to prevent from distorting
or "stripping out" the slot. (This is why A-1 Miller's use and offer for
sale hardened 18-8 stainless steel screws [with split lock washers]. Unlike
[OEM] soft brass screws, 18-8 stainless steel will not strip out or break
off under normal installation.)
But should a brass screw break off in the throttle or choke shaft without
first grinding down the protruding/flared end, sometimes the shaft can be
difficult to remove from the carburetor body due to the protruding flared
end. Or if the slot in the screw head gets "stripped-out." In this case,
use the
Dremel to grind the flared end of the [broken] screw
and/or grind off the head of the screw until it's flush with the shaft. Then
the shaft can be removed. Afterwards, the broken screw can be drilled out
using a milling machine clamped in a vise with a 1/16"
center bit drill to make a small depression in the exact
center of the broken screw to prevent
"drill
bit skating" so either a 5/64", #46 or 2mm drill bit can be used to drill
out the rest of the broken screw, and then the threads may need to be
straightened/cleaned with a 3-48 UNC taper hand tap.
Don't use a center punch on the broken screw. This could bend the shaft,
create a crack when straightened, possibly cause it to break later when in
use. The throttle and choke shafts in Carter and Kohler carburetors originally
come with 3-48 UNC screws. A #3 split lock
washer should be used with a 3-48 UNC screw.
Should the threaded hole become enlarged from drilling out the broken screw,
the hole(s) can be made bigger with a 4-40 UNC
tap, and a 4-40 UNC screw with a #4 split lock washer will need to be
installed. By the way - liquid threadlocker is not required with a lock washer.
[Return To Previous Paragraph or
Section]
Correct Orientation and Installation
of the Throttle Plate and Choke Plate for Carter, Kohler and Walbro Carburetors
-
[Return
To Previous Website, Paragraph or Section]
Operation of the throttle plate and it works: All genuine OEM factory-made
throttle plates, rather if it's for a small engine, automotive, farm tractor,
industrial engine, etc., are made 3% oblong or "egg-shape", and have a slight
angle on the edges that seal against the sides of the throttle bore when
the throttle plate is fully closed. The oblong shape and angles prevent the
majority of incoming air from entering the combustion chamber when the throttle
is in the idle position so the engine can draw air and 100% fuel through
the idle fuel passageway in the carburetor so the engine can run at a low
speed. With the throttle plate closed, low air vacuum occurs through the
throttle bore and no fuel is drawn out of or through the [high speed] main
jet/nozzle. When the throttle is opened and the engine is revved up, high
velocity of air is drawn through the throttle bore and then fuel is drawn
out of or through the main jet/nozzle. And when the engine is running
approximately above 2,000 RPM, no fuel is drawn through the idle fuel passageway.
If the throttle shaft is removed
to install a new bushing and/or a new throttle shaft, or if the venturi is
to be bored-out (and the main jet/nozzle removed for a
reworked carburetor on a competition
pulling engine), the throttle plate must be removed first.
Read the article above or click here to
learn how to properly remove the throttle (and choke) plate.
To reinstall the throttle plate correctly, on the Carter, Kohler and Walbro
carburetors, the C (Carter), K (Kohler) or W (Walbro)
stamped on the throttle plate faces outward and toward your right when facing
the throttle bore with the carburetor positioned right side up and float
bowl down or toward you, as shown in the photo to the right ->. Back off
the idle speed adjustment screw so it doesn't make contact with the throttle
lever to allow the throttle plate be in the fully closed position. This will
allow for the throttle plate to rest 100% in the throttle bore and against
the throttle shaft. Make sure the throttle plate is centered with the throttle
bore in the fully closed position and against the throttle shaft. Use the
tips of a small [pointy] needle-nose pliers to align the holes in the throttle
plate with the screw holes in the throttle shaft. Install and tighten the
retaining screws with lock washers. If the
throttle plate is installed in reverse or not 100% centered with the throttle
bore, too much air will by-pass the throttle plate and the engine will not
be able to idle down at a slow speed. Most aftermarket/ oblong throttle plates
are not stamped with a letter and don't have the angle on the sides, so they
can be installed in either direction, and they should seal 100% to allow
the engine idle down just as well.
And when reinstalling a choke plate, make sure it's correctly aligned and
centered with the intake end of the carburetor on the choke shaft when in
the fully closed position. If the choke plate is not installed correctly,
it will not close fully, and the engine will be hard to start or may not
start at all (without the assistance of a remote fuel primer
system installed).
ALWAYS install the lock washers
(or apply
medium strength liquid threadlocker) on the threads of
the throttle (and choke) plate screws, and tighten them securely to prevent
them from possibly loosening and being sucked into the combustion chamber,
and getting lodged between the intake or exhaust valve and seat, which can
possibly cause the valve to bend, or lodge on top of the piston, which can
cause damage to the piston and cylinder head, and possibly the cylinder wall.
Do the job right the first time and it won't have to be done again later,
possibly with devastating results.
[Return
To Previous Paragraph or Section]
How to Remove the Main Jet/Nozzle (Emulsion
Tube) from a Carter or Kohler #26, #28 or #30 Carburetor -
[Return To Previous Paragraph or
Section]
![10-18hp Kohler (or Carter [model N]) Carburetor](images/carb.jpg)
When rebuilding a plain, stock Carter
or Kohler #26, #28 or #30 carburetor, there is really no need to remove the
main jet/nozzle. If the main jet/nozzle will not come out, don't worry about
it. All that has to be done is make sure that the bottom hole and side holes
in the main jet/nozzle are open. To check if the side holes are open, simply
spray WD-40 or aerosol carburetor cleaner through the small hole just beneath
the choke plate and observe if it comes out the main jet/nozzle inside the
throttle bore and float bowl area.
But if the main jet/nozzle is clogged, or if you're boring the venturi to
modify/rework the carburetor for high performance use, then the main jet/nozzle
must be removed. Before attempting to remove the main jet/nozzle, and if
the screwdriver slot is in good condition, then I found the best, easiest
and proven way to remove it is by the following process. This method works
great most of the time and the main jet/nozzle should loosen with no problems.
-
Remove the idle fuel mixture screw (so it won't get bent) and the high speed
needle adjuster so the tip won't get damaged when performing the procedure
mentioned below.
-
Cradle the carburetor body upside down (float area facing up) lengthways
on the open jaws of a large bench vise.
-
Place a
hand impact tool or a quality-made flat blade screwdriver
with a good, square end wide enough to fit the entire width of the threaded
hole and thick enough for more contact with the slot in the main jet/nozzle.
-
Using a medium size hammer, strike the impact driver or screwdriver sharply
and
perpendicular
several times while at the same time rotating the main jet/nozzle
counterclockwise
by hand (with the screwdriver)
to loosen it. Do not use a wooden handle screwdriver because the handle could
break.
-
If the above È didn't work, then perform
the removal method mentioned below Ê.
If the above È method still didn't work,
then unfortunately, sometimes the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube) will get
stuck in place and the screwdriver slot will strip out. (I hate when this
happens.) Do not use an
Easy Out [Broken] Screw Extractor! With this tool, the
tapered shape will force the main jet/nozzle to swell or spread outward (cause
it to increase in diameter), and the deeper it goes, it could possibly crack
the aluminum tube, rendering the carburetor body useless. The
alternative method to remove the main jet/nozzle is to drill it out.
This process is performed as follows:
-
First, remove the high speed needle adjuster so it will not interfere with
the main jet/nozzle and get damaged.
-
Firmly clamp the carburetor body with the mounting and choke ends making
contact with the jaws of a bench vise with the float area facing up.
-
Drill
perpendicular
directly through the center of the main jet/nozzle with a 3/16" drill bit,
then carefully enlarge the hole with a 9/32" drill bit, and finally finish
drilling the hole with a 19/64" drill bit. Drill about 1" depth into the
main jet/nozzle.
-
Being very gentle, use a long, slender taper punch with a very pointed end
and a small hammer to collapse the thin threads of the main jet/nozzle.
NOTE: Be extremely careful when doing this! Because
the aluminum tube could crack, rendering the carburetor body totally
useless.
-
Pry out the remains of the main jet/nozzle with
needle-nose pliers. If you're not able to remove the entire
main jet/nozzle with needle-nose pliers, insert a 3/16" diameter steel rod
through the high speed needle adjuster hole and drive out the remains of
the main jet/nozzle. May have to hold the rod angled through the hole so
it can make contact with the end of the nozzle to drive it out.
-
With the main jet/nozzle removed,
use a 3/8-24 UNF plug hand tap to reshape and clean the threads for installation
of another main jet/nozzle. Install a new main jet/nozzle, or a good used
one from a junk carburetor. If the main jet/nozzle in a junk
carburetor is stuck, you can just split the threaded tube with either
a
flat cold chisel,
nut splitter or heat the tube with a
propane torch or an
oxy-acetylene torch until it splits apart. If attempting
to use the
flat cold chisel or
nut splitter, be careful not to damage the main jet/nozzle
itself!
How to Remove the Main Jet/Nozzle (Emulsion Tube) from a Carter Model
N #13, #16, #18, #20 or #22 Carburetor for Cleaning -

If the main jet/nozzle in a Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20
or #22 carburetor that's used on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161,
KV161,
L160/L161,
L181, K181 needs to be removed for cleaning, being this type
of nozzle is pressed in the carburetor body. It removes and reinstalls a
lot easier than the above È main jet/nozzle.
The removal and installation process is as follows:
-
Remove the idle fuel mixture screw (so it won't get bent upon reinstallation
of the main jet/nozzle), high speed needle adjuster, float bowl and float.
-
Place the carburetor body right-side up (float area facing down) on the open
jaws of a bench vise. Position the carburetor body crossways on the vise
jaws so the float hinge loops won't break off. Do not tighten the vise jaws
against the carburetor body.
-
Using a 4" length x 11/64" (.172") diameter steel punch with a blunt end
and a small hammer, go through the high speed needle hole from the top side
of the carburetor, and drive the main jet/nozzle out from the bottom of
carburetor body.
-
To reinstall the main nozzle, place the carburetor body upside-down on the
open jaws of the vise and use a 1/4" diameter steel [roll pin] punch and
small hammer to drive it in until it bottoms out, and the end can be seen
in the venturi.
By the way - as far as I know, new main jet/nozzles for the Carter Model
N #13, #16, #18, #20 or #22 carburetor is not available from any source.
How to Remove a Broken-Off High Speed Air/Fuel Mixture Adjustment Needle
Screw from a Carter or Kohler Carburetor -
Sometimes when an engine sits with gas in the fuel system, the old, dried
gas residue will cause the high speed air/fuel adjuster to become seized
in the carburetor body. And when attempting to remove it, the hollow tube
could will break off flush with the carburetor body. (Anything is possible
with soft brass and old, dried gas.) Anyway, The removal process of a broken-off
main adjuster is as follows:
-
Reach in through the choke end with
needle-nose pliers or small
long/needle-nose Vise-Grips locking pliers and break off
the needle part of the adjuster.
-
From the top of the carburetor body, drill out the threaded part of the adjuster
with a 3/16" drill bit, then work up to a 7/32" bit. Be sure to drill straight
down into the adjuster! For precision and full control of the drilling process,
this is best performed with the carburetor body clamped in a vice that's
fastened on the table of a milling machine. (The broken adjuster may screw
on out on its own when drilling it.)
-
If it don't screw out when drilling it, use a long, slender taper punch with
a very pointed end to collapse the remains of the adjuster so it can be removed
with the needle-nose pliers.
-
Use a 1/4-28 UNF plug hand tap to clean and straighten the threads for
installation of another adjuster.
If you don't feel comfortable removing the broken adjuster yourself, I charge
$30.00 labor each, plus return shipping & handling, to remove
a broken adjuster.
Using Pump Gas with 10% Ethanol Versus 100% Race Gas in a Pulling Tractor
-
First of all, in an daily-driven vehicle, gasoline with no lead is hard on
soft cast iron exhaust valve seats. A soft cast iron valve seat is one that's
been machined directly into an engine block or cylinder head, and it have
not been heated-treated or no hardened insert is installed. In a daily-driven
automobile, the seat(s) will eventually deteriorate or the metal will literally
"wear away" because the absence of lead in gas to provide a protective coating
to prevent wear. And being most exhaust valves are made of extremely hardened
steel, they're not likely to wear at all. The intake valve and the cast iron
seat is not likely to wear as much, if any. And an engine block or cylinder
head with heat-treated seats or have hardened steel exhaust valve seat insert(s)
installed, they should not wear whatsoever.
Anyway, the 10% ethanol in pump gas (common everyday automotive fuel) lessens
exhaust emissions. Plus, the alcohol content boosts the octane, making it
somewhat of a high performance fuel. The lead content in race gas (VP Racing
Fuel, Turbo Blue, Sunoco, Torco, etc.) boosts the octane also, except it's
alcohol-free to pass the tech fuel test for tractor pulling. And the valve
seat(s) that's ground in a cast iron block in a competition pulling engine
burning 87 octane unleaded regular gas should last a long time, no longer
than the tractor runs down the track (2-3 minutes per pull). They're not
being driven a long distance, like in a car or truck.
How
to test for alcohol content in gasoline. (Requires
Adobe
Acrobat Reader and use
Google
Chrome web browser for a faster download of websites with large
files.)
Older-formula mothballs have also been used by drag racers to enhance the
octane rating of fuel, by dissolving the mothballs in some of the fuel and
filtering out the remains with a filter paper.
Adding 2-cycle engine oil to gasoline will also boost the octane rating of
the gas because the oil slows down the combustion process. The length of
the combustion burning process depends on the amount of oil added to the
gas. The oil content will help lubricate the cylinder wall and valves.
Average Octane Rating of Various Fuels | Remember - Only high
compression engines benefit from the use of high octane fuel to increase
the power output. High octane fuels have no effect whatsoever and will not
increase the power output when used in a low compression engine.
-
Regular unleaded automotive gasoline (without 10% ethanol): 87
octane.
-
Premium unleaded automotive gasoline with 10% ethanol: 91-92 octane.
-
Leaded aviation gas/jet fuel: 100 octane.
-
E30: 98.6 octane.
-
E85: 105 octane.
-
Liquefied Petroleum (LP) or Propane: 100-110 octane.
|
-
Leaded race gas (VP Racing Fuel, Turbo Blue, Sunoco, Torco, etc.): approximately
110 octane.
-
100% methanol: 110 octane.
-
100% ethanol: 110-112 octane.
-
99% isopropyl alcohol (Main ingredient in rubbing alcohol and gas line
antifreeze to disperse water in fuel): 120 octane.
-
Denatured alcohol: 130 octane.
-
Hydrogen
fuel: approximately 130 octane.
-
Compressed Natural Gas (CNG): 130 octane.
|
By the way - I've never had problems with gas having 10% ethanol in any of
my small engines or automotive engines. I don't know why anyone else would.
Maybe that's because when one is having problems with a small engine not
running right, it's much easier to just blame it on "bad gas" than to look
for the real problem elsewhere with the engine. Remember - it takes three
things to make an internal combustion engine run: carburetion, compression
and ignition. A professional, thorough and energetic mechanic don't blame
the problem on one thing and overlook the other two. Unless of course, he's
lazy and looking to make some quick money by doing an easy fix.
NOTE: The main jet (and fuel inlet hole) should
not be enlarged for alcohol-free, high octane racing gas, such as VP Racing
fuel, Turbo Blue, Sunoco, Premium gas, or gas with 10% ethanol, because these
fuels require the same air/fuel mixture ratio as for ordinary, low octane
automotive gas. If the main jet hole (orifice) is intentionally enlarged
for gasoline-based fuels, the engine will run too rich on fuel, and there'll
be no way to lean it out.
How
to test for alcohol content in gasoline. (Requires
Adobe
Acrobat Reader and use
Google
Chrome web browser for a faster download of websites with large
files.)
Nostalgic Memorabilia -
Back in the day (early 1980s
and earlier), gasoline at most
filling service gas stations for various [automotive and
other types of] engines were for the following compression ratios: For an
engine with a compression ratio up to 9.25:1, it was safe to use
Regular gasoline (low octane); if the compression ratio
is between 9.25:1-10.50:1, the engine required
Premium gasoline, which was also known as High Test gasoline
in various locations (mid octane); and for compression ratios above 10.50:1,
the engine required
Ethyl gasoline (high octane). Nowadays, due to the lead
content in Ethyl, it's been replaced with Premium Unleaded, which was also
known as Super Unleaded in various locations. Actually, ALL gasoline back
in the day contained lead to boost the octane and protect soft cast iron
valve seats from wearing.
I'd also like to share this old gas station joke: Car owner
that just pulled up to the pump at a
full service gas station says to the
gas station attendant: "Fill 'er up... Ethyl!"
Gas station attendant: "I'll fill up your car, and don't
call me Ethel."
FYI - Until the late 1960s, certain Chevrolet small block
muscle car engines had a compression ratio as high as 11.25:1, and certain
Chevrolet [427] big block muscle car engines had a compression ratio as high
as 14:1! (That was the good ol' days of hot rodding!) In fact, back in the
day, Chevrolet was the only one out of the top three car manufacturers that
had the highest compression ratio. |
When to Use a Gravity Feed Fuel Flow System -
Gravity feed is defined as when the fuel is drawn or pulled
downward by gravity; the lowest part of the gas tank is positioned higher
than the carburetor, and there's no fuel pump involved. Anyway, when burning
gas only (not 100% alcohol/methanol fuel) and if an engine is going to run
no faster than 4,000± RPM (governed RPM limit; the factory setting of
maximum RPM for virtually all small gas engines, including all of Kohler
engines is 3,600), then a
gravity
feed fuel system with the lowest part of the gas tank positioned higher
than the carburetor (especially on a hillside), stock fuel fittings and neoprene
rubber fuel hose should work fine.
A fuel pump is required ONLY when the lowest part of the gas tank or when
the entire tank is positioned lower than the carburetor, and when used especially
on a hillside. The fuel pump supplies fuel up to the carburetor. Otherwise,
if the lowest part of the gas tank is positioned higher than the carburetor
at all times, then the engine can run on a gravity feed fuel system with
no problems.
Information About the Pulse-Type/Vacuum-Operated
Fuel Pump - [Return To Previous
Paragraph, Section or Website]
All pulse-type/vacuum-operated
fuel pumps operate off of the air pressure/vacuum inside an engine's crankcase.
The moving piston(s) inside the crankcase create a pulsating effect of air
ç back and forth
to activate the pump's diaphragm, which
pumps the fuel to the carburetor. And all pulse-type/vacuum-operated fuel
pumps come with three barbed hose fittings - one that connects to the engine
crankcase (PULSE), one that connects from the gas tank (IN) and another that
connects to the carburetor (OUT). These should be embossed on the pump body.
But if it doesn't, then the fitting coming from the center of the pump connects
to the crankcase port. And as for the other two fittings, one connects to
the gas tank outlet and the other fitting connects to the carburetor inlet.
If the engine in a lawn and garden tractor, small motorized vehicle or
ATV/UTV sputters and/or dies after going over rough terrain,
this could be caused by a defective pulse-type/vacuum-operated fuel pump.
Overtime, the fuel pump bodies become warped and oil in the crankcase is
preventing air from pulsating the diaphragm the way it should. If the engine
has a 12 volt electrical system with a charging system, it'll be better to
install a low pressure 12 volt electric fuel
pump. These rarely give trouble.
To test a plastic body pulse-type/vacuum-operated fuel pump, first check
that the fuel hose between the gas tank and fuel pump is open and unobstructed,
or if it has dry-rot cracks, which can cause a vacuum leak. To test it,
disconnect the fuel hose from the fuel pump and wrap a shop/business towel
or clean rag around an air blower nozzle and then insert the nozzle with
the rag or towel in the gas tank filler neck. Apply light air pressure in
the tank. If fuel comes out of the fuel hose, then it's open. After that,
reconnect the fuel hose to the fuel pump. To test the fuel pump itself, first
check the hose that connects the fuel pump to the engine crankcase to see
if it has a kink in it or if it has dry-rot cracks, which can also cause
a vacuum leak. If it's in good condition, then the final step is to disconnect
the fuel hose from the carburetor and with adequate amount of fuel in the
gas tank, crank the engine and at the same time observe how much fuel is
being pumped out of the pump. If there seems to be adequate amount of fuel
coming from it, hold your finger over the end of the line and while still
cranking the engine, it should build up a small amount of pressure. If none
or very little fuel comes out of the pump, then it's bad and needs replacing.
When a pulse-type/vacuum-operated fuel pump fails to pump fuel, in most cases,
the body of the fuel pump will become warped, causing a vacuum leak either
from within or from the outside, preventing the diaphragm from pulsating.
If the diaphragm is still flexible, chances are, the pump can be repaired
by resurfacing the body halves on a wide, flat
belt- or disc-sander/grinder or on the side of an abrasive
metal cutting wheel on a
electric chop saw (the kind that automotive muffler shops
use) to remove warpage and restore flatness. (Be sure to use eye protection!)
If the body halves is warped, the sander/grinder will make contact where
the screw holes are, but not the area between the screw holes.
If the bottom of the gas tank is lower than the carburetor, then the engine
definitely needs a fuel pump. If the engine didn't originally come with a
fuel pump, and has no provision for a mechanical fuel pump and/or no 12 volt
power output/supply to use a low pressure 12 volt
electric fuel pump, here's how to install
a universal pulse-type/vacuum-operated fuel pump on virtually any small gas
engine:
-

A vacuum hose fitting can be installed in the valve (rocker
arm) cover of an OHV engine, or for a flathead engine, use a
block-off plate to cover the existing
mechanical fuel pump opening. On an OHV engine, remove the rocker cover,
and drill a 21/32" hole in the desired location, and cut 1/8" NPT threads
in the drilled hole, and then install an 1/8-NPT x 1/4" barbed end [fuel]
hose fitting to serve as the vacuum-pulse port. On a flathead engine,
don't install the fitting in the outer crankcase breather cover. It doesn't
hold crankcase vacuum. The plate behind it with the reed valve does.
-


A
pulse-type/vacuum-operated fuel pump will work well with the OEM Kohler oval
shape fuel pump block-off cover plate (part # 240282-S) used on certain Kohler
K-series engines with a 21/32" port hole drilled and threads cut with an
1/8" NPT hand tap, and an 1/8" NPT x 1/4" hose fitting installed.
-
Or a hose fitting can be installed directly in the engine block/crankcase.
To do this, locate a place on the crankcase that's easily accessible, drill
a 21/32" hole in the desired location, and cut 1/8" NPT threads in the drilled
hole. Be sure to drill the hole and install the fitting above the oil level
in the crankcase to insure that air pressure within the crankcase will activate
the fuel pump and to prevent a possible oil leak.
IMPORTANT - To prevent metal cuttings from entering
inside the crankcase, block off or plug the crankcase breather vent hole,
and apply 150± P.S.I. compressed air
through
the oil fill opening or oil dipstick
tube with a shop towel or plastic wrapped tightly around the air nozzle to
create air pressure inside the crankcase so the metal cuttings will be blown
outward and not enter inside the crankcase while drilling the hole and cutting
the threads. Be sure to use eye protection, too!
-
Install the [fuel] hose fitting in the threaded hole with
plumber's thread sealing tape on the threads to guarantee
a leak-proof seal to prevent any oil seepage.
-
Connect a 1/4" I.D. neoprene rubber vacuum or fuel hose from the fitting
on the rocker cover or crankcase to the appropriate fitting on the vacuum
fuel pump (this will activate the pump).
-
Connect a 1/4" I.D. fuel hose from the gas tank to the fitting on the pump
marked IN ç.
-
Connect a 1/4" I.D. fuel hose from the carburetor to the fitting on the pump
marked OUT è.
-
Install clamps on all the hoses/fittings to prevent a vacuum, oil and/or
fuel leak, and to insure proper function of the pump.
-
Mount the fuel pump securely and position the hoses away from any exhaust
heat. The pump should now work great!
NOTE: It doesn't matter if a small amount of crankcase oil gets in the
vacuum-pulse hose. This is normal and the fuel pump will still work just
fine being air, along with the oil, will be pulsating back and forth
, which activates the diaphragm in the pump
that is created by the movement of the engine piston(s).
[Return To Previous Paragraph or
Section]
Troubleshooting a Faulty Pulse-Type/Vacuum-Operated and Mechanical Fuel
Pump -
If an engine sits for about one week or longer, if the fuel in the carburetor
evaporates and it's hard to start, or fuel must be squirted into the carburetor
to get the engine started, then this means that the pulse-type/vacuum-operated
fuel pump mechanical fuel pump may be bad. The inlet valve in the pump is
leaking, which is allowing the fuel to drain back into the gas tank with
the engine off. As the pump tries to syphon fuel from the tank to refill
the carburetor, it's unable because the inlet valve is bad. Solution: a new
fuel pump will need to be installed. By the way - the halves of the plastic
and metal body fuel pumps cannot be interchanged. When a vacuum or mechanical
fuel pump quits working, the causes are listed below:
-
Gasket/diaphragm mating surfaces on pump halves warped, causing vacuum leak
and/or external fuel leak. (This is common with mechanical fuel pumps.)
-
Solution: Completely disassemble fuel pump (except for pump lever), resurface
both halves on a wide, flat
belt- or disc-sander/grinder or on the side of an abrasive
metal cutting wheel on a
electric chop saw (the kind that automotive muffler shops
use) to remove warpage and restore flatness. (Be sure to use eye protection!)
Remove any rough edges with a
deburring tool and thoroughly clean all parts afterwards.
-
Poppet valve dislodged from its cavity in pump cover. (This happens
often.)
-
Solution: Disassemble fuel pump, reinstall valve in its recess (in the
correct position) and carefully peen the metal or plastic around it. If the
valve won't stay in place, the only option is to acquire another fuel pump
cover that's in good condition, acquire a used fuel pump that's in good
condition, or acquire a new fuel pump.
|
-
Corrosion damage due to contamination with water. (Inside aluminum fuel
pump cover.)
-
Solution: If it can't be thoroughly cleaned internally, acquire another
fuel pump cover that's in good condition, acquire a used fuel pump that's
in good condition, or acquire a new fuel pump.
-
Deteriorated diaphragm. (This rarely happens, but when it does, there'll
be presence of gas in the crankcase oil.)
-
Solution: Install a new diaphragm, or acquire a good diaphragm from a
faulty fuel pump, acquire a used fuel pump that's in good condition, or acquire
a new fuel pump.
-
Cracked (split) threads in tapered threaded inlet or outlet ports. (This
happens when the (NPT) tapered thread fuel fittings are over-tightened.)
-
Solution: Acquire another fuel pump cover that's in good condition, acquire
a used fuel pump that's in good condition, or acquire a new fuel pump.
|
What Exactly Is Fuel "Vapor Lock"?
Vapor lock only happens with certain older carbureted cars and trucks with
a mechanical fuel pump that's fastened to the engine block. Vapor lock occurs
when the [metal] gas line is too close to the hot exhaust, and when the vehicle
is in slow traffic, the fuel is moving very slow in the line. Due to extreme
heat from the exhaust and on a hot day, and the fan blade not blowing that
much air past the exhaust, sometimes the heat will cause the gas to boil,
forming air bubbles or air pockets, and the fuel vaporizes, and then the
fuel pump can't pump vaporized fuel (air). So as soon as the carburetor runs
out of fuel, the engine stalls. The fuel pump will "lock" with vapors trapped
inside it. When the vehicle cools, incoming gas will force the air out of
the fuel pump and through the carburetor, allowing the fuel to return to
the pump, and then the engine will start and run again. This don't happen
nowadays with automobiles having fuel injection because the entire fuel hose
is pressurized.
But on lawn- or garden-tractors, the fuel hose is located nowhere near the
hot exhaust. What is really happening when the engine stalls, is either the
fuel system is dirty, the ignition coil is bad, or there's
insufficient valve to lifter
clearance.
Using a Mechanical Fuel Pump -
First of all, a fuel pump is
required ONLY when the lowest part of the gas tank is positioned lower than
the carburetor, or when burning methanol fuel. It pumps fuel up to the carburetor
when gravity will not allow sufficient fuel flow to the carburetor. Otherwise,
if the lowest part of the gas tank is positioned higher than the carburetor,
the engine can successfully run solely on a gravity feed fuel system.
Mechanical plastic and metal
body fuel pumps are very durable and they work pretty well, for both lawn
and garden tractors, small motorized vehicle and stock competition garden
pulling tractors burning gas only. They will not pump enough fuel with methanol.
Anyway, the OEM neoprene rubber diaphragm or gaskets rarely go bad in the
mechanical fuel pump. When they fail to pump any fuel, it's usually due to
the fuel pump cover and body become warped due to pressure from the retaining
screws, or one of the poppet valves get damaged. They can become dislodged
from their counterbore, or rusted or corroded from long term water contamination.
If the poppet valves are in good condition and snug in their counterbores,
but if the pump doesn't pump fuel, then in most cases, the cover and body
have become warped, creating a vacuum leak at the diaphragm/gasket between
the cover and body. To fix this, separate the fuel pump cover from the body,
and resurface each on a wide, flat
belt- or disc-sander/grinder or on the side of an abrasive
metal cutting wheel on a
electric chop saw (the kind that automotive muffler shops
use) to remove warpage and restore flatness. (Be sure to use eye protection!)
After resurfacing, remove any rough edges with a
deburring tool, and thoroughly clean all the parts with
150± P.S.I. compressed air and an
air blow gun nozzle before reassembly. After reassembly
of the pump, it should work good as new. But if this doesn't fix the problem,
or if one of the poppet valves is damaged, then perhaps a new or used
reconditioned pump will need to be acquired.
By the way - most [new design]
aftermarket small engine plastic-body mechanical fuel pumps rarely warp between
the screws that fasten the cover and body together because the material is
much thicker in this area. Only the older OEM Kohler plastic- and metal-body
mechanical fuel pumps warp between the screws because the material is the
same thickness where the screws are.
The only problem when using a gasket to fasten the mechanical fuel pump to
the block is, being the mounting flange is so thin, it will warp over time,
causing an oil leak. (This happens with every pump I've seen.) To fix this,
and to [possibly] prevent an oil leak in the future, completely disassemble
the pump, remove the lever and arm (be careful not to lose the spring) and
use a wide, flat
belt- or disc-sander/grinder or on the side of an abrasive
metal cutting wheel on a
electric chop saw (the kind that automotive muffler shops
use) to remove warpage and restore flatness. (Be sure to use eye protection!)
The trick to reinstalling the spring is, reinstall the arm, lever and support
pin in the pump body first, then install the spring with a small, flat
screwdriver. (The pumps with the manual fuel primer lever is harder to
reassemble.) To keep the flange from warping again, fasten it directly to
the block using only
clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant and use no gasket,
or use a very thin gasket. Finally, install a flat washer (and of course,
a split lock washer) under each mounting screw head to distribute even pressure
on the flange and to prevent the screws from loosening. By the way - I've
always preferred to use
clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant for three reasons:
Gaskets don't always seal the irregularities and imperfections between mating
metals, especially thin metal covers; being it's an adhesive, it bonds parts
together, forming a leak-proof seal; and being it's clear, it makes for a
clean and professional-looking repair job. When applied sparingly, it can't
be easily seen or noticed between the parts.
The purpose of the older and
now obsolete OEM Kohler mechanical fuel pump with the manual hand lever
(thin metal piece that hangs down under the pump body) is for when the engine
runs out of fuel, after refilling the gas tank, it takes less time to manually
prime the pump and refill the carburetor with gas by working the lever by
hand than it would to crank the engine for a long time so the fuel pump can
draw fuel from the tank and deliver it to the carburetor. This was a nice
feature, especially on engines with a rope or recoil starter! It also saves
wear and tear on the electric starter motor from cranking the engine for
a long time, which could eventually burn up the starter or drain the battery.
FYI - Virtually of all of Kohler's
single cylinder cast iron block and opposed twin cylinder engines come with
a lobe on the camshaft to activate the mechanical fuel pump. The fuel pump
installs with the lever positioned upwards. And if there's no provision on
the side of a [single cylinder] block to mount a mechanical fuel pump, a
3/4" center hole and two 1/4" bolt holes can be drilled, and the 1/4" holes
tapped for 1/4-20 UNC threads to mount a mechanical fuel pump. Use a fuel
pump mounting gasket as a templet to drill the holes.
When to Use a Low Pressure 12 Volt Electric Fuel Pump -


Most low pressure
12 volt electric fuel pumps are compact,
vibration-proof (has solid state dependability), self-priming, easy to install
and connect the wiring. They work with gasoline-based fuels, won't flood
the carburetor, draw very little amperage from the battery, and they cost
less than most OEM low pressure 12 volt electric
fuel pumps. These works great for garden tractors and small motorized
vehicles with a single- or two-cylinder engine.
Another good thing about a low pressure 12 volt
electric fuel pump verses a mechanical pump
(if the mechanical pump doesn't have a primer lever, which must be primed
manually) is if an engine runs out of fuel, the engine will not have to be
cranked for a long time to get the fuel pumped up to the carburetor, which
can be hard on an electric starter motor.
A new electric fuel pump should come with
detailed and illustrated installation instructions. If there's no instructions,
on a tractor or small engine equipment with battery-powered ignition, connect
the RED wire from the pump to the wire
that connects to the ignition coil positive (+) terminal (which is connected
to the battery positive (+) post through the ignition key switch), and connect
the BLACK wire from the pump to the engine sheet metal or chassis
ground (which is connected directly to the battery negative () post).
On a tractor or small engine equipment with magneto or solid state ignition,
but with electric start, use an OFF/ON toggle switch connected to the battery
positive (+) post to power the fuel pump. In most cases, do not use the
[self-grounding magneto] ignition key switch.
Advertisement: (Prices are subject to change without notice.)
Click here to contact A-1 Miller's
Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing,
and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance
and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need
a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in
this website. |
 Mechanical Fuel Pump Opening
Block-Off/Cover Plates with 1/8" NPT Threaded Port Hole. Use with pulse
hose to replace faulty mechanical fuel pump with a pulse-type/vacuum-operated
fuel pump (listed below). Each plate fits virtually all models of Kohler
engines and certain older Tecumseh engines. Can be installed with
clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant instead of a gasket
to prevent oil leakage. Use
plumber's thread sealing tape on threads of fitting (listed
below) to guarantee a leak-proof seal. Each plate listed below replaces
discontinued Kohler part # 277646 and Tecumseh part # 32955. The rectangular
plate is an innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please do not accept advertised
copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my
ingenuity and intelligence.)
[Top of Page]
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Rectangular-shape Steel Cover Plate with 1/8" NPT Threaded Hole. When
appearance isn't important. Customer supplies own fitting, or use with choice
of hose/pulse fittings listed below. A-1 Miller's fabricated part.
$10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
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Oval shape Anodized Steel Cover Plate with 1/8" NPT Threaded Hole. When
appearance matters. Customer supplies own fitting, or use with choice
of hose fittings listed below. A-1 Miller's modified part. $15.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
Straight Fuel/Pulse Hose Fittings.
Use with 1/4" I.D. fuel hose and/or with a pulse-type/vacuum-operated fuel
pump (listed below). Use
plumber's thread sealing tape on threads of fitting to
guarantee a leak-proof seal. Dimensions: 1/8" NPT male threads x 1/4" barbed
hose fitting. Replaces discontinued Kohler part #'s 277483-S, X-495-1, and
Tecumseh part # 28534.
-
Used and in excellent condition. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
(When available or in stock.)
-
New aftermarket hose fitting. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
45º Fuel/Pulse Hose Fitting.
Use with 1/4" I.D. fuel hose and/or with a pulse-type/vacuum-operated fuel
pump (listed below). Use in close quarters to clear obstacles. Use
plumber's thread sealing tape on threads of fitting to
guarantee a leak-proof seal. Dimensions: 1/8" NPT male threads x 1/4" barbed
hose fitting.
-
$5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
90º Fuel/Pulse Hose Fittings.
Use with 1/4" I.D. fuel hose and/or with a pulse-type/vacuum-operated fuel
pump (listed below). Use in close quarters to clear obstacles. Use
plumber's thread sealing tape on threads of fitting to
guarantee a leak-proof seal. Dimensions: 1/8" NPT male threads x 1/4" barbed
hose fitting.
-
New high quality aftermarket steel hose fitting. $3.00 each, plus
shipping & handling.
-
Used and in excellent condition steel hose fitting. OEM Kohler part # 25
155 02-S. $4.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available
or in stock.)
-
New. OEM Kohler part # 25 155 02-S. $9.80 each, plus shipping &
handling.
|
 Pulse-Type/Vacuum-Operated Fuel Pumps. Operates off internal
engine crankcase pulsating air pressure from movement of piston(s). Very
durable, long lasting and universal usage. Designed for many makes and models
of various small gas engines for general lawn and garden usage or for a
4,000± RPM stock competition pulling engine. Can be used as a replacement
for a faulty high-dollar mechanical OEM low pressure fuel pump. NOTE:
Remove rubber caps from fittings before installing fuel and vacuum hoses.
IMPORTANT: Install inline fuel filter between gas tank and pump to lessen
wear and damage to flapper/reed valves in pump.
Click here to learn how
to convert a small engine for use with this type of fuel pump.
-
Plastic Body Fuel Pump. High quality aftermarket. Replaces Briggs & Stratton
part # 808656, Kohler part #'s B-231390 (discontinued), 24 393 16-S, and
Tecumseh part # 32959. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 24 393 16-S. $56.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Metal Body Fuel Pump. High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part #'s
B-231390 (discontinued), 15 393 01-S, and Tecumseh part # 32959.
$30.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 15 393 01-S. $55.75 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Mechanical Fuel
Pump Opening Block-Off/Cover Plates. Use with a gravity feed fuel system
or replace faulty mechanical fuel pump with a 12 volt
electric fuel
pump. Each plate fits virtually all models of Kohler engines
and certain older Tecumseh engines. Can be installed with
clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant instead of a gasket
to prevent oil leakage. The rectangular plate is an ingenious and innovative
concept by Brian Miller. Please do not accept advertised copycat products
of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and
intelligence.)
-
Rectangular-shape Steel Fuel Pump Block-Off/Cover Plate. When appearance
isn't important. A-1 Miller's fabricated part. Replaces Kohler part #
240282-S; and Tecumseh part # 31660. $8.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
Oval shape Anodized Steel Cover Plate. When appearance matters. OEM
Kohler part # 240282-S; replaces Tecumseh part # 31660. $10.60 each,
plus shipping & handling.
|
Mechanical Fuel
Pump Mounting Gaskets and Neoprene Seal. Use either gasket with mechanical
fuel pumps and if the rubber seal is missing for a new style pump. Fits all
models of Kohler and older Tecumseh engines with a camshaft-operated mechanical
fuel pump. Gaskets approximately 1/32" thick.
-
High quality aftermarket gasket. Replaces Kohler part # 25 041 10-S and Tecumseh
part # 32683A. $1.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler gasket, part # 25 041 10-S. $2.10 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
Neoprene Rubber Seal. Comes with new style fuel pump. $2.00 each,
plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
|
Mechanical Fuel
Pump Diaphragm and Pressure Spring Repair Kit. Fits old-style plastic- and
metal-body mechanical fuel pumps with thread-in hose fittings used on Kohler,
Onan, Tecumseh, Wisconsin, etc. Will not fit new style fuel pumps with press-in
fuel hose fittings. NOTE: New pump body gasket(s) and poppet valves not
available. IMPORTANT: To insure proper operation of fuel pump and to prevent
a vacuum leak, resurface both halves of pump bodies on a wide, flat
belt- or disc-sander/grinder to remove warpage and restore
flatness. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 230675-S. $10.00
each, plus shipping & handling. |
 Mechanical Fuel Pumps. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141,
K160/K161,
L160/L161,
L181, K181 and M8. The new style and durable [hard] plastic body
fuel pumps resist warpage and corrosion from water contamination. NOTE:
Use supplied snap ring to compress tabs on pump to install and rotate hose
fittings. IMPORTANT: Install inline fuel filter between gas
tank and pump to lessen wear and damage to poppet valves in pump.
-
New style high quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 41 559 05-S.
$22.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
New style OEM Kohler part # 41 559 05-S. $106.50 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Repair and test YOUR OEM Kohler
mechanical fuel pump. $20.00 labor each, plus return shipping &
handling. No charge if not repairable.
|
 Mechanical Fuel Pumps. Fits Kohler
engine models K241, M10, K301, M12, K330/K331, K321, M14, K341, M16, K361
and K660/K662. The new style and durable [hard] plastic body fuel pumps resist
warpage and corrosion from water contamination. NOTE: Use supplied snap
ring to compress tabs on pump to install and rotate hose fittings. IMPORTANT:
Install inline fuel filter between gas tank and pump
to lessen wear and damage to poppet valves in pump.
-
Reconditioned and tested OEM Kohler old-style plastic body mechanical fuel
pump. OEM Kohler part # 47 559 10-S. $30.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
Reconditioned and tested OEM Kohler old-style metal body mechanical fuel
pump. OEM Kohler part # 47 559 10-S. $50.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
New style high quality aftermarket plastic body mechanical fuel pump. Inlet
and outlet ports are reversible by removing pump cover, rotate 180º,
and reinstall. Replaces Kohler part # 47 559 10-S and 47 559 11-S.
$30.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
New style plastic body mechanical fuel pump, same as below except w/left
side inlet port.
OEM Kohler
part # 47 559 10-S. $163.15 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
New style plastic body mechanical fuel pump, same as above except w/right
side inlet port.
Most commonly
used. OEM Kohler part # 47 559 11-S. $216.80 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Repair and test YOUR OEM
Kohler mechanical fuel pump. $20.00 labor each, plus return shipping
& handling. No charge if not repairable.
|
 Mechanical Fuel Pumps. Fits Kohler
engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19
Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. The new style and durable
[hard] plastic body fuel pumps resist warpage and corrosion from water
contamination. NOTE: Use supplied snap ring to compress tabs on pump to
install and rotate hose fittings. IMPORTANT: Install inline fuel filter between
gas tank and pump to lessen wear and damage to poppet
valves in pump.
-
New style high quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 52 559 03-S.
$22.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
New style OEM Kohler part # 52 559 03-S. $89.35 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Repair and test YOUR OEM
Kohler mechanical fuel pump. $20.00 labor each, plus return shipping
& handling. No charge if not repairable.
|
 Mechanical Fuel Pumps. Fits Kohler
engine models K482, K532 and K582 opposed twin cylinder engines. The new
style and durable [hard] plastic body fuel pumps resist warpage and corrosion
from water contamination. NOTE: Use supplied snap ring to compress tabs
on pump to install and rotate hose fittings. IMPORTANT: Install inline fuel
filter between gas tank and pump to lessen wear and
damage to poppet valves in pump.
-
New style high quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 48 559 05-S.
$44.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
New style OEM Kohler part # 48 559 05-S. $207.20 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Repair and test YOUR OEM
Kohler mechanical fuel pump. $20.00 labor each, plus return shipping
& handling. No charge if not repairable.
|
 12 Volt Electric Fuel Pump
Installation Kits. Compact and small. Use an electric fuel pump when
the gas tank is lower than the carburetor or when
a mechanical fuel is insufficient. Alcohol-resistant and very durable. Upgrade
to one of these electric pumps for more reliable fuel delivery. Instantly
fills the carburetor with fuel as soon as pump is powered up. Ideal when
equipment runs out of gas and no need to crank the engine for a long time
with a pulse-type/vacuum-operated or a mechanical fuel pump to refill the
carburetor to restart the engine. Saves wear and tear of the
starter motor and
reserves battery power. Convert from gravity feed, or replace a faulty or
inefficient pulse-type/vacuum-operated fuel pump or malfunctioning or inefficient
mechanical fuel pump. For most small engines, a fuel regulator is not required
with the low pressure pumps. Each is suitable for small gas engines up to
4 cylinder carbureted engines. Use on general lawn and garden equipment,
go-karts, ATV's, UTV's, small motorized vehicles or competition garden pulling
tractors with a stock engine or open RPM competition pulling engine. Will
work with most small gas engines such as Kohler, Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh,
Wisconsin, etc., and on virtually all models of Cub Cadet, John Deere, Wheel
Horse, Sears Suburban, Massey Ferguson, and just about any lawn & garden
equipment with a 12 volt electrical system. If it's a Kohler AQS "Quiet Line"
engine, the [larger] fuel hose fitting in the carburetor will need to be
changed to a 1/4" fitting. IMPORTANT: Use
plumber's thread sealing tape to guarantee a leak-proof
seal. If the engine has magneto or solid state electronic ignition, and no
charging system, a small 12 volt battery will need to be used to power the
fuel pump. The battery would need to be recharged with a 120 volt portable
battery charger from time to time so the fuel pump will work at peak efficiency.
Each fuel pump draws less than 2 amps. Wire Connections: The
RED wire connects to the IGNITION terminal
on the ignition/starter key switch or to an OFF-ON toggle switch, and the
BLACK wire connects to negative () ground (chassis or frame).
NOTE: Electric fuel pumps listed here come with a one year warranty from
date of purchase. IMPORTANT: Install the inline fuel filter between gas tank
and pump inlet port to prevent any dirt/debris from wearing the pumping
mechanism. If dirt/debris become lodged in pump, it can be cleared-out with
150± P.S.I. compressed air and an
air blow gun nozzle when applied in the reverse direction
of fuel flow. And for long
term storage of equipment, drain and flush out all fuel, leave fuel hoses
disconnected and apply light oil in the pump to prevent oxidation or "sticking"
of the pumping mechanism.
[Return
To Previous Paragraph or Section]
-
Universal Square Body Low Pressure 12 Volt Electric Fuel Pump Installation
Kit. Produces 2.5-4.5 P.S.I. and is non-adjustable. Includes: Fuel pump,
two thread-in straight 1/4" barbed fuel hose fittings, 4 spring-type hose
clamps, 1/4" I.D. x 12" length reinforced fuel hose, and fuel filter w/1/4"
barbed fuel hose fittings. Replaces Kohler part #'s 25 559 01-S, 25 559 02-S,
41 393 45-S. $30.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Universal Square Body Low Pressure 12 Volt Electric Fuel Pump Installation
Kit. Produces 1/2-2 P.S.I. OEM Kohler part # 25 559 01-S. $261.50
each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Go Here for High Quality Aluminum Gas Tanks and
Brackets:
https://www.gopowersports.com/gas-tank-aluminum-cylinder-10/
|
https://www.gopowersports.com/lil-rascal-front-gas-tank-brackets/
[Return To Previous Paragraph or
Section] |
How to Prepare an Electric Fuel Pump for Wintertime or Long Term Storage
-
If small engine equipment is equipped with an electric fuel pump, for winter-time
or long term storage, drain out all fuel, and use 150± P.S.I. compressed
air with an
air blow gun nozzle to clear out any remaining fuel in
the fuel pump and fuel system. Leave the fuel hoses disconnected so the entire
fuel system can "air dry". Then apply WD-40 or light weight oil, such as
3-IN-ONE, power steering fluid or equivalent, in the fuel
pump to prevent oxidation of any aluminum parts and possible rusting of any
steel parts, which could cause the pump to malfunction. Then store the small
engine equipment in a cool, dry environment. Avoid storing the equipment
in a damp and high humility environment.
Click or tap here for
more information of long term storage of an engine.
Advertisement: (Prices are subject to change without notice.)
Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for
FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support
and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or
parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this
website. |
Professional Carburetor Rebuilding -
 Rebuild and/or Repair YOUR Carter, Kohler or Walbro Carburetor.
Nothing performs better than the OEM carburetor that originally came on the
engine. This is a basic rebuild service with no "high performance" modifications
performed whatsoever. Work includes: Complete disassembly of carburetor,
thoroughly clean carburetor body and all associated parts in an
ultrasonic cleaning machine, inspect all parts for wear,
resurface both ends of carburetor body on a wide, flat
belt- or disc-sander/grinder to remove warpage and restore
flatness (to prevent a vacuum leak), install new overhaul/rebuild kit, and
if needed, install new bronze throttle shaft bushing and/or new throttle
shaft. $65.00-$135.00± for parts and labor each, plus return
shipping & handling.
-
For certain types of Carter, Kohler, Walbro or various other make of carburetors
not used on Kohler K-series or Magnum engines: Replace severely worn OEM
throttle shaft with a new fabricated/machined steel throttle shaft and reuse
OEM throttle plate and lever. $75.00 for parts and labor. An innovative
concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this distinctive service.
-
Idle speed and air/fuel mixture bore will be preset on the carburetor just
to get the engine running, but due to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric
pressure and air temperature where the carburetor/engine will be used, final
idle and high speed air/fuel mixture will need to be made by the customer
so the engine will run smooth.
-
FYI: A-1 Miller's also offer professional rebuilds of older vintage and
antique/vintage carburetors virtually of any kind as long as replacement
parts are available. New throttle and choke shafts can be fabricated in our
shop.
-
All carburetors that we repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to
be free of defects and come with a limited lifetime workmanship warranty
from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE professional and honest technical
support.
-
NOTE: All high performance carburetors that we modify (bore-out and rework)
are guaranteed to allow the engine to rev up at its full potential. If the
engine will not rev up fully, and a
high-output/performance ignition coil and
a medium capacity (OEM/ordinary) condenser are being used, which can
result in a weak spark, then the coil needs two medium capacity condensers
or one high-capacity/performance condenser to produce a stronger spark.
IMPORTANT: When sending your carburetor to A-1
Miller's, use the USPS, FedEx or UPS with a tracking number. Package
it securely so it won't get damaged and address it correctly so it won't
get lost in shipping and place it in a sealed zip-lock sandwich bag to prevent
the odor of gas from escaping the package and prevent the loss of any loose
parts in shipping. To prevent the odor of gas from outside the package, apply
air freshener on the carburetor to disguise the smell of
gas. Because the USPS, FedEx or UPS will not deliver any packages that smell
like gas. Also, include a note in the package with your name, complete and
correct postal address, phone number (in case I have any questions), a
description of what you want done, how the engine will be used and any other
parts you may need. I will contact you when the carburetor (and list of parts)
are ready to be sent back to you. I also do business with customers in Canada
and worldwide. - Brian Miller
FYI - Many of our customers send me their carburetor for rebuilding, but
sometimes I can't find anything wrong it. So I'd call our customer and ask
how their engine acted or ran. After hearing their story, I tell them it
sounds like their engine either needs a professional valve job performed
or it needs a professional tune-up. And lo and behold! Many of them either
adjusted the valve clearances or had a professional valve job performed,
or performed a professional tune-up, and said that their engine ran like
new again. So remember, sometimes a carburetor problem may be the valves
or the ignition system instead. Please contact A-1 Miller's
for FREE professional and honest technical support if you have any concerns
with how poorly your engine runs. |
High Quality Aftermarket
Walbro-Replicated LME Carburetor. Brand new. Fits Tecumseh engine models
HH100 and HH120. The OEM Walbro LME carburetor is no longer available from
Tecumseh. Replaces discontinued Tecumseh part #'s 631304A, 631304B and 632424.
-
$40.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
If you're not sure what model Tecumseh engine you have, go here:
Craftsman
to Tecumseh Model Cross Reference.
NOTE: Before considering replacing the carburetor, the engine may have
insufficient valve-to-lifter clearances or it may need a professional valve
job performed instead. So check and (re)set the valve clearances to factory
specifications. If there's black sooty (carbon) residue inside the carburetor
throttle bore, this means the intake valve definitely has insufficient clearance.
Because sometimes misdiagnosed carburetor problems can be faulty valves. |
Professionally Rebuilt
Genuine OEM Carter Model N #13 or #16 Carburetor. Very rare nowadays.
This particular carburetor is designed specifically for Kohler engine model
K90 and K91 (which are the same engine), and certain low RPM K141 engines.
It has a tapered/inverted cone-shape float bowl and float, and the throttle
bore measures .810" diameter and the venturi is .542" diameter. When used
on a Kohler engine model K141, K160/K161,
L160/L161,
L181, K181 or M8, due to the smaller throttle bore and restrictive
venturi, and velocity of air that's required, the bigger engine may not produce
full power at 3,600 RPM. (It'll be the same as using a small 2-barrel carburetor
versus a big 4-barrel carburetor on an automotive engine.) This is a plain,
stock carburetor that's been completely disassembled, thoroughly cleaned
and professionally rebuilt with a new overhaul kit, new throttle shaft (if
needed) and other new parts if required. No performance modifications are
made to this carburetor whatsoever. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture
adjustments will be initially set on the carburetor just to get the engine
running, but due to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and
air temperature where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed
air/fuel mixture adjustments will need to be made by the customer so the
engine will run smooth. Use
plumber's thread sealing tape on threads of fuel hose fitting
to guarantee a leak-proof seal. OEM Carter part #'s A-220100, A-230246, A-230444,
E-220517, F-220762, G-220517, 220451, 220574, 220745, 220777, 230501. OEM
Kohler part # 46 053 03. One of these numbers should be stamped on your OEM
Carter carburetor, but not all numbers stamped on Carter carburetors are
listed with Kohler. This carburetor is discontinued from Kohler.
L All carburetors that we repair, rebuild,
modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with a limited
lifetime workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE
professional and honest technical support. NOTE: Before considering replacing
the carburetor, the engine may have insufficient valve-to-lifter clearances
or it may need a professional valve job performed instead. So check and (re)set
the valve clearances to factory specifications. If there's black sooty (carbon)
residue inside the carburetor throttle bore, this means the intake valve
definitely has insufficient clearance. Because sometimes misdiagnosed carburetor
problems can be faulty valves.
-
$200.00 each with a rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in (certain
valuable parts can be reused off of it on a good carburetor body), plus shipping
& handling. (When available or in stock.) IMPORTANT: When sending
your carburetor to A-1 Miller's, use the USPS, FedEx
or UPS with a tracking number. Package it securely so it won't get damaged
and address it correctly so it won't get lost in shipping and place it in
a sealed zip-lock sandwich bag to prevent the odor of gas from escaping the
package and prevent the loss of any loose parts in shipping. To prevent the
odor of gas from outside the package, apply
air freshener on the carburetor to disguise the smell of
gas. Because the USPS, FedEx or UPS will not deliver any packages that smell
like gas. Also, include a note in the package with your name, complete and
correct postal address, phone number (in case I have any questions), a
description of what you want done, how the engine will be used and any other
parts you may need. I will contact you when the carburetor (and list of parts)
are ready to be sent back to you. I also do business with customers in Canada
and worldwide. - Brian Miller
-
$300.00 each outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling.
(When available or in stock.) NOTE: If it's rebuildable or repairable,
please do not discard your Carter or Kohler carburetor or other OEM Kohler
parts. Most discontinued Kohler parts in good, usable/rebuildable condition
are hard to find nowadays, and nothing works better than the original part(s)
the engine was designed for.
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Rebuild YOUR OEM Carter
or Kohler carburetor. Total cost depends on which parts it will need and
amount of labor required so it will function like a new one.
$65.00-$135.00± for parts and labor each, plus return shipping
& handling.
Professionally Rebuilt Genuine
OEM Carter Model N #18 Carburetor. Somewhat rare. This particular carburetor
is designed specifically for Kohler engine model K141. The throttle bore
measures .823" diameter and the venturi is .550" diameter. When used on a
Kohler engine model K90/K91, due to the bigger venturi and velocity of air
that's required, the smaller engine may hesitate to rev up. And when used
on a Kohler engine model K160/K161,
L160/L161,
L181, K181, or M8, due to the smaller and restrictive venturi,
and velocity of air that's required, the bigger engine may not produce full
power at 3,600 RPM. (It'll be the same as using a
restrictor plate, or a small 2-barrel carburetor versus
a big 4-barrel carburetor on an automotive engine.) This is a plain, stock
carburetor that's been completely disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and
professionally rebuilt with a new overhaul kit, new throttle shaft (if needed)
and other new parts if required. No performance modifications are made to
this carburetor whatsoever. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments
will be initially set on the carburetor to get the engine running, but due
to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature
where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture
adjustments will need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth.
Use
plumber's thread sealing tape on threads of fuel hose fitting
to guarantee a leak-proof seal. OEM Carter part #'s A-231966, B-231469, G-220517.
OEM Kohler part #'s 41 053 06, 41 053 13. One of these numbers should be
stamped on your OEM Carter carburetor, but not all numbers stamped on Carter
carburetors are listed with Kohler. This carburetor is discontinued from
Kohler. L All carburetors that we repair, rebuild,
modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with a limited
lifetime workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE
professional and honest technical support. NOTE: Before considering replacing
the carburetor, the engine may have insufficient valve-to-lifter clearances
or it may need a professional valve job performed instead. So check and (re)set
the valve clearances to factory specifications. If there's black sooty (carbon)
residue inside the carburetor throttle bore, this means the intake valve
definitely has insufficient clearance. Because sometimes misdiagnosed carburetor
problems can be faulty valves.
-
$155.00 each with a rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in (certain
valuable parts can be reused off of it on a good carburetor body), plus shipping
& handling. (When available or in stock.) IMPORTANT: When sending
your carburetor to A-1 Miller's, use the USPS, FedEx
or UPS with a tracking number. Package it securely so it won't get damaged
and address it correctly so it won't get lost in shipping and place it in
a sealed zip-lock sandwich bag to prevent the odor of gas from escaping the
package and prevent the loss of any loose parts in shipping. To prevent the
odor of gas from outside the package, apply
air freshener on the carburetor to disguise the smell of
gas. Because the USPS, FedEx or UPS will not deliver any packages that smell
like gas. Also, include a note in the package with your name, complete and
correct postal address, phone number (in case I have any questions), a
description of what you want done, how the engine will be used and any other
parts you may need. I will contact you when the carburetor (and list of parts)
are ready to be sent back to you. I also do business with customers in Canada
and worldwide. - Brian Miller
-
$165.00 each outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling.
(When available or in stock.) NOTE: If it's rebuildable or repairable,
please do not discard your Carter or Kohler carburetor or other OEM Kohler
parts. Most discontinued Kohler parts in good, usable/rebuildable condition
are hard to find nowadays, and nothing works better than the original part(s)
the engine was designed for.
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Rebuild YOUR OEM Carter
or Kohler carburetor. Total cost depends on which parts it will need and
amount of labor required so it will function like a new one.
$65.00-$135.00± for parts and labor each, plus return shipping
& handling.
Professionally Rebuilt Genuine
OEM Carter Model N #20 Carburetor. Somewhat rare. This particular carburetor
is designed specifically for Kohler engine models K160/K161. The throttle
bore measures .823" diameter and the venturi is .612" diameter. When used
on a Kohler engine model K90/K91 or K141, due to the bigger venturi and velocity
of air that's required, the smaller engine may hesitate to rev up. And when
used on a Kohler engine model
L160/L161,
L181, K181 or M8, due to the smaller and restrictive venturi,
and velocity of air that's required, the bigger engine may not produce full
power at 3,600 RPM. (It'll be the same as using a
restrictor plate, or a small 2-barrel carburetor versus
a big 4-barrel carburetor on an automotive engine.) This is a plain, stock
carburetor that's been completely disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and
professionally rebuilt with a new overhaul kit, new throttle shaft (if needed)
and other new parts if required. No performance modifications are made to
this carburetor whatsoever. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments
will be initially set on the carburetor to get the engine running, but due
to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature
where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture
adjustments will need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth.
Use
plumber's thread sealing tape on threads of fuel hose fitting
to guarantee a leak-proof seal. OEM Carter part #'s A-230798, B-231231, B-231450,
B-231469, C-231738, E-231480, E-231488, E-231489, F-230350, F-230501, G-220517,
G-230500. OEM Kohler part #'s 41 053 06, 41 053 14. One of these numbers
should be stamped on your OEM Carter carburetor, but not all numbers stamped
on Carter carburetors are listed with Kohler. This carburetor is discontinued
from Kohler. L All carburetors that we repair,
rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with
a limited lifetime workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes
FREE professional and honest technical support. NOTE: Before considering
replacing the carburetor, the engine may have insufficient valve-to-lifter
clearances or it may need a professional valve job performed instead. So
check and (re)set the valve clearances to factory specifications. If there's
black sooty (carbon) residue inside the carburetor throttle bore, this means
the intake valve definitely has insufficient clearance. Because sometimes
misdiagnosed carburetor problems can be faulty valves.
-
$155.00 each with a rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in (certain
valuable parts can be reused off of it on a good carburetor body), plus shipping
& handling. (When available or in stock.) IMPORTANT: When sending
your carburetor to A-1 Miller's, use the USPS, FedEx
or UPS with a tracking number. Package it securely so it won't get damaged
and address it correctly so it won't get lost in shipping and place it in
a sealed zip-lock sandwich bag to prevent the odor of gas from escaping the
package and prevent the loss of any loose parts in shipping. To prevent the
odor of gas from outside the package, apply
air freshener on the carburetor to disguise the smell of
gas. Because the USPS, FedEx or UPS will not deliver any packages that smell
like gas. Also, include a note in the package with your name, complete and
correct postal address, phone number (in case I have any questions), a
description of what you want done, how the engine will be used and any other
parts you may need. I will contact you when the carburetor (and list of parts)
are ready to be sent back to you. I also do business with customers in Canada
and worldwide. - Brian Miller
-
$165.00 each outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling.
(When available or in stock.) NOTE: If it's rebuildable or repairable,
please do not discard your Carter or Kohler carburetor or other OEM Kohler
parts. Most discontinued Kohler parts in good, usable/rebuildable condition
are hard to find nowadays, and nothing works better than the original part(s)
the engine was designed for.
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Rebuild YOUR OEM Carter
or Kohler carburetor. Total cost depends on which parts it will need and
amount of labor required so it will function like a new one.
$65.00-$135.00± for parts and labor each, plus return shipping
& handling.
Professionally Rebuilt Genuine
OEM Carter Model N #22 Carburetor. This particular carburetor is designed
specifically for Kohler engine models K181,
L181 and M8. The throttle bore
measures .823" diameter and the venturi is .682" diameter. Due to the
unrestrictive venturi and velocity of air that's required, when used on a
K181, L181 or M8, the bigger
engine will produce full power at 3,600 RPM. But due to the bigger venturi,
when used on a K90/K91, K141 or K160/K161, the smaller engine may hesitate
to rev up because it may not create the velocity of air or air charge required
to sufficiently draw/suction fuel through the main nozzle at 3,600 RPM. This
is a plain, stock carburetor that's been completely disassembled, thoroughly
cleaned and professionally rebuilt with a new overhaul kit, new throttle
shaft (if needed) and other new parts if required. No performance modifications
are made to these carburetors whatsoever. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture
adjustments will be initially set on the carburetor to get the engine running,
but due to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air
temperature where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel
mixture adjustments will need to be made by the customer so the engine will
run smooth. Use
plumber's thread sealing tape on threads of fuel hose fitting
to guarantee a leak-proof seal. OEM Carter part #'s A-230798, A-231741, A-234631,
B-231739, C-231738, F-230350, F-230501, F-230502, G-220517. OEM Kohler part
#'s 41 053 01, 41 053 04, 41 053 05, 41 053 06, 41 053 18, 41 053 20. One
of these numbers should be stamped on your OEM Carter carburetor, but not
all numbers stamped on Carter carburetors are listed with Kohler. Not all
later Carter Model N carburetors with a .682" venturi have the "22" embossed
in the choke end of the carburetor. Please indicate if the carburetor you
need use 2 or 3 air cleaner mounting holes. This carburetor is discontinued
from Kohler. L All carburetors that we repair,
rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with
a limited lifetime workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes
FREE professional and honest technical support. NOTE: Before considering
replacing the carburetor, the engine may have insufficient valve-to-lifter
clearances or it may need a professional valve job performed instead. So
check and (re)set the valve clearances to factory specifications. If there's
black sooty (carbon) residue inside the carburetor throttle bore, this means
the intake valve definitely has insufficient clearance. Because sometimes
misdiagnosed carburetor problems can be faulty valves.
-
$75.00 each with a rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in (certain
valuable parts can be reused off of it on a good carburetor body), plus shipping
& handling. (When available or in stock.) IMPORTANT: When sending
your carburetor to A-1 Miller's, use the USPS, FedEx
or UPS with a tracking number. Package it securely so it won't get damaged
and address it correctly so it won't get lost in shipping and place it in
a sealed zip-lock sandwich bag to prevent the odor of gas from escaping the
package and prevent the loss of any loose parts in shipping. To prevent the
odor of gas from outside the package, apply
air freshener on the carburetor to disguise the smell of
gas. Because the USPS, FedEx or UPS will not deliver any packages that smell
like gas. Also, include a note in the package with your name, complete and
correct postal address, phone number (in case I have any questions), a
description of what you want done, how the engine will be used and any other
parts you may need. I will contact you when the carburetor (and list of parts)
are ready to be sent back to you. I also do business with customers in Canada
and worldwide. - Brian Miller
-
$95.00 each outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling.
(When available or in stock.) NOTE: If it's rebuildable or repairable,
please do not discard your Carter or Kohler carburetor or other OEM Kohler
parts. Most discontinued Kohler parts in good, usable/rebuildable condition
are hard to find nowadays, and nothing works better than the original part(s)
the engine was designed for.
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Rebuild YOUR OEM Carter
or Kohler carburetor. Total cost depends on which parts it will need and
amount of labor required so it will function like a new one.
$65.00-$135.00± for parts and labor each, plus return shipping
& handling.
High Quality Aftermarket
Carter Model N-Replicated Fully Adjustable Carburetor. The throttle bore
in this particular carburetor measures .811" diameter and the venturi is
.588" diameter. The choke lever is positioned the same as the OEM Carter
Model N carburetors. This is an alternative universal low cost carburetor
that is designed to be used on Kohler engine models K181,
L181 or M8. Due to
the larger venturi size, this carburetor may not work correctly on the Kohler
engine models K90/K91, K141 or K160/K161. Direct replacement; no modifications
to linkages required. When installing the carburetor, reuse the same linkage
and everything else. Transfer the 1/8" NPT fuel hose fitting (use
plumber's thread sealing tape on threads of fitting to
guarantee a leak-proof seal), install carburetor on engine, adjust the idle
speed and air/fuel mixtures until the engine runs smooth. Irrelevant Carter
or Kohler part number(s). Comes with a limited lifetime warranty from date
of purchase. Warranty includes FREE professional and honest technical support.
$30.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
NOTE: Before considering replacing the carburetor, the engine may have
insufficient valve-to-lifter clearances or it may need a professional valve
job performed instead. So check and (re)set the valve clearances to factory
specifications. If there's black sooty (carbon) residue inside the carburetor
throttle bore, this means the intake valve definitely has insufficient clearance.
Because sometimes misdiagnosed carburetor problems can be faulty valves. |
 Professionally Rebuilt Genuine OEM Carter or Kohler #26
Carburetors. The throttle bore measures 26mm/1.07" diameter and the venturi
is .812" diameter. This particular carburetor is designed specifically for
Kohler engine models K241, K301, K330/K331, M10 and M12. When used on a Kohler
engine model K321, M14, K341, M16 or K361, due to the smaller throttle bore
and restrictive venturi, and velocity of air that's required, the bigger
engine may not produce full power at 3,600 RPM. (It'll be the same as using
a
restrictor plate, or a small 2-barrel carburetor versus
a big 4-barrel carburetor on an automotive engine.) These are plain, stock
carburetors that's been completely disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt
with a new overhaul kit, new throttle shaft bushing and/or new throttle shaft
(if needed) and other new parts installed if required. No performance
modifications made to these carburetors whatsoever. Includes choke plate
installed. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be initially
set on the carburetor to get the engine running, but due to the altitude
level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine
will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments will
need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth. Kohler carburetor
part #'s 47 053 07, 47 053 08, 47 053 12, 47 053 13, 47 053 14, 47 053 24,
47 053 29, 47 053 40, 47 053 62 or 47 053 80. One of these numbers should
be stamped on mounting flange of your OEM carburetor, but not all numbers
stamped on Carter carburetors are listed with Kohler. And design of throttle
lever, choke lever and number of air cleaner mounting holes may be different
for your particular engine application than shown in photo to the right ->.
Discontinued from Kohler. L All carburetors
that we repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects
and come with a limited lifetime workmanship warranty from date of purchase.
Warranty includes FREE professional and honest technical support. NOTE:
Before considering replacing the carburetor, the engine may have insufficient
valve-to-lifter clearances or it may need a professional valve job performed
instead. So check and (re)set the valve clearances to factory specifications.
If there's black sooty (carbon) residue inside the carburetor throttle bore,
this means the intake valve definitely has insufficient clearance. Because
sometimes misdiagnosed carburetor problems can be faulty valves.
-
$65.00 each with a rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in (certain
valuable parts can be reused off of it on a good carburetor body), plus shipping
& handling. (When available or in stock.)
-
$85.00 each outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling.
(When available or in stock.) NOTE: If it's rebuildable or repairable,
please do not discard your Carter or Kohler carburetor or other OEM Kohler
parts. Most discontinued Kohler parts in good, usable/rebuildable condition
are hard to find nowadays, and nothing works better than the original part(s)
the engine was designed for.
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Rebuild YOUR OEM Carter
or Kohler carburetor. Total cost depends on which parts it will need and
amount of labor required so it will function like a new one.
$65.00-$135.00± for parts and labor each, plus return shipping
& handling.
Professionally Rebuilt Genuine
OEM Carter #28 Carburetor. Very rare carburetor. The throttle bore measures
28mm/1.17" diameter and the venturi is .937" diameter. This particular carburetor
was designed specifically for the early Kohler engine model K321 with
specification suffix "A", "B" or "C" (with the smaller 1-1/8" exhaust valve)
and for certain early low RPM K341 engines. When used on a Kohler engine
model K241, M10, K301 or M12, due to the larger throttle bore and bigger
venturi, the smaller engine may hesitate to rev up because it may not create
the velocity of air or air charge required to sufficiently draw/suction fuel
through the main nozzle at 3,600 RPM. These are plain, stock carburetors
that's been completely disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt with
a new overhaul kit, new throttle shaft bushing and/or new throttle shaft
(if needed) and other new parts installed if required. No performance
modifications made to these carburetors whatsoever. Includes choke plate
installed. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be initially
set on the carburetor to get the engine running, but due to the altitude
level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine
will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments will
need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth. It may have
the part number 236636 stamped on the flange. It has been discontinued by
Carter many years ago. NOTE: Not all numbers stamped on Carter carburetors
are listed with Kohler. And design of throttle lever, choke lever and number
of air cleaner mounting holes may be different for your particular engine
application than shown in photo to the right ->. All carburetors that
we repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and
come with a limited lifetime workmanship warranty from date of purchase.
Warranty includes FREE professional and honest technical support. NOTE:
Before considering replacing the carburetor, the engine may have insufficient
valve-to-lifter clearances or it may need a professional valve job performed
instead. So check and (re)set the valve clearances to factory specifications.
If there's black sooty (carbon) residue inside the carburetor throttle bore,
this means the intake valve definitely has insufficient clearance. Because
sometimes misdiagnosed carburetor problems can be faulty valves.
-
$100.00 each with a rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in (certain
valuable parts can be reused off of it on a good carburetor body), plus shipping
& handling. (When available or in stock.)
-
$150.00 each outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling.
(When available or in stock.) NOTE: If it's rebuildable or repairable,
please do not discard your Carter or Kohler carburetor or other OEM Kohler
parts. Most discontinued Kohler parts in good, usable/rebuildable condition
are hard to find nowadays, and nothing works better than the original part(s)
the engine was designed for.
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Rebuild YOUR OEM Carter
or Kohler carburetor. Total cost depends on which parts it will need and
amount of labor required so it will function like a new one.
$65.00-$135.00± for parts and labor each, plus return shipping
& handling.
Professionally Rebuilt Genuine
OEM Carter or Kohler #30 Carburetors. The throttle bore measures 30mm/1.2"
diameter and the venturi is 1.000" diameter. This particular carburetor is
designed specifically for Kohler engine models K321 (w/1-3/8" exhaust valve),
K341, M14 and M16. When used on a Kohler engine model K241, M10, K301 or
M12, due to the larger throttle bore and bigger venturi, the smaller engine
may hesitate to rev up because it may not create the velocity of air or air
charge required to sufficiently draw/suction fuel through the main nozzle
at 3,600 RPM. These are plain, stock carburetors that's been completely
disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt with a new overhaul kit, new
throttle shaft bushing and/or new throttle shaft (if needed) and other new
parts installed if required. No performance modifications made to these
carburetors whatsoever. Includes choke plate installed. The idle speed and
air/fuel mixture adjustments will be initially set on the carburetor to get
the engine running, but due to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric
pressure and air temperature where the engine will be used, final idle and
high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments will need to be made by the customer
so the engine will run smooth. Kohler carburetor part #'s 47 053 07, 47 053
08, 47 053 12, 47 053 13, 47 053 14, 47 053 24, 47 053 29, 47 053 40, 47
053 62 or 47 053 80. One of these numbers should be stamped on mounting flange
of your OEM carburetor, but not all numbers stamped on Carter carburetors
are listed with Kohler. And design of throttle lever, choke lever and number
of air cleaner mounting holes may be different for your particular engine
application than shown in photo to the right ->. Discontinued from Kohler.
L All carburetors that we repair, rebuild,
modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with a limited
lifetime workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE
professional and honest technical support. NOTE: Before considering replacing
the carburetor, the engine may have insufficient valve-to-lifter clearances
or it may need a professional valve job performed instead. So check and (re)set
the valve clearances to factory specifications. If there's black sooty (carbon)
residue inside the carburetor throttle bore, this means the intake valve
definitely has insufficient clearance. Because sometimes misdiagnosed carburetor
problems can be faulty valves.
-
$85.00 each with a rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in (certain
valuable parts can be reused off of it on a good carburetor body), plus shipping
& handling. (When available or in stock.)
-
$100.00 each outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling.
(When available or in stock.) NOTE: If it's rebuildable or repairable,
please do not discard your Carter or Kohler carburetor or other OEM Kohler
parts. Most discontinued Kohler parts in good, usable/rebuildable condition
are hard to find nowadays, and nothing works better than the original part(s)
the engine was designed for.
Professionally Rebuilt Genuine
OEM Kohler #30 (w/1.25" Throttle Bore) Carburetor. Rare carburetor. The
throttle bore measures 32mm/1.25" diameter and the venturi is 1.062" diameter.
This particular carburetor is designed specifically for Kohler engine model
K361. When used on a Kohler engine model K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14,
K341 or M16, the smaller engine may hesitate to rev up because it may not
create the velocity of air or air charge required to sufficiently draw/suction
fuel through the main nozzle at 3,600 RPM. Completely disassembled, thoroughly
cleaned and professionally rebuilt with a new overhaul kit, new throttle
shaft bushing and/or new throttle shaft (if needed) and other new parts installed
if required. No performance modifications made whatsoever. The idle speed
and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be initially set on the carburetor
to get the engine running, but due to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric
pressure and air temperature where the engine will be used, final idle and
high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments will need to be made by the customer
so the engine will run smooth. NOTE: Design of throttle lever, choke lever
and number of air cleaner mounting holes may be different for your particular
engine application than shown in photo to the right ->. Discontinued from
Kohler. L Kohler carburetor part #'s 47 053
07, 47 053 08, 47 053 12, 47 053 13, 47 053 14, 47 053 24, 47 053 29, 47
053 40, 47 053 62 or 47 053 80. One of these numbers should be stamped on
mounting flange of your OEM carburetor, but not all numbers stamped on Carter
carburetors are listed with Kohler. All carburetors that we repair, rebuild,
modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with a limited
lifetime workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE
professional and honest technical support. NOTE: Before considering replacing
the carburetor, the engine may have insufficient valve-to-lifter clearances
or it may need a professional valve job performed instead. So check and (re)set
the valve clearances to factory specifications. If there's black sooty (carbon)
residue inside the carburetor throttle bore, this means the intake valve
definitely has insufficient clearance. Because sometimes misdiagnosed carburetor
problems can be faulty valves.
-
$175.00 each with a rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in (certain
valuable parts can be reused off of it on a good carburetor body), plus shipping
& handling. (When available or in stock.)
-
$195.00 each outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling.
(When available or in stock.) NOTE: If it's rebuildable or repairable,
please do not discard your Carter or Kohler carburetor or other OEM Kohler
parts. Most discontinued Kohler parts in good, usable/rebuildable condition
are hard to find nowadays, and nothing works better than the original part(s)
the engine was designed for.
NEW
High Quality Aftermarket Kohler-replicated fully adjustable carburetors.
Each is a direct replacement with the same function and appearance as OEM
Carter and Kohler carburetors. The choke lever is positioned the same as
the OEM Carter and Kohler carburetors. No modifications required. Before
installing carburetor, transfer the 1/8" NPT fuel hose fitting (use
plumber's thread sealing tape on threads of fitting to
guarantee a leak-proof seal), reuse same linkage and everything else, and
after carburetor is installed on engine, with engine running, adjust idle
speed and low and high speed air/fuel mixture screws until engine runs smooth.
NOTE: Please specify if you need a carburetor with a hole or ball on throttle
lever. FYI: Some people advertise online that the aftermarket 1.07"/#26
carburetor, that's suited for Kohler engine models K241, M10, K301 or M12,
can also be used on the K321, M14, K341, M16 and K361 engines. But I know
for a fact and dyno tests shown that if the 1.07"/#26 carburetor is used
on a K321, M14, K341, M16 or K361, which with the correct size carburetor
(1.2"/#30 and 1.25"), produces 14hp, 16hp and 18hp, respectively. Only the
K321 and M14 engines require the 1.17"/#28 carburetor for it to produce 14hp
at 3,600 RPM. But with the 1.17"/#28 aftermarket carburetor installed on
the K341, M16 and K361 engines, they will produce about 14hp and 15hp at
3,600 RPM, and make less torque, because the engine would be drawing less
air through the smaller throttle bore and not build up as much compression.
Aftermarket carburetors are not available with the 1.2"/#30 or 1.25" throttle
bore, that's suited for the K341, M16 or K361 engines. Other sellers apparently
don't know the difference between the OEM and aftermarket carburetors because
these look virtually identical on the outside. Or maybe the seller figures
what most people don't know, makes them more money. So buyer beware!
-
NEW High Quality Aftermarket Kohler-replicated, fully adjustable #26 (1.07"
throttle bore) carburetors.
-
With hole in throttle lever and short choke lever. Designed for Kohler K-series
and Magnum engine models K241, M10, K301, M12 with the
round metal air cleaner/filter
assembly. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
With ball on throttle lever and long choke lever. Designed for Kohler AQS
"Quiet Line" engine models K241 and K301 with the
oblong/egg-shape metal air
cleaner/filter assembly or velocity stack and K&N air filter.
$55.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
NEW High Quality Aftermarket Kohler-replicated, fully adjustable #30 (1.17"
throttle bore) carburetors.
-
With hole in throttle lever and short choke lever. Designed for Kohler engine
models K321, M14, K341 and M16 with the
round metal air cleaner/filter
assembly. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
With ball on throttle lever and long choke lever. Designed for Kohler AQS
"Quiet Line" engine models K321 and K341 with the
oblong/egg-shape metal air
cleaner/filter assembly or velocity stack and K&N air filter. $55.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
 Professionally Rebuilt Genuine OEM Kohler #26 fully adjustable
carburetors. Fits Kohler engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II,
KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20
(without anti-backfire/engine shut-off valve). These are plain, stock
carburetors that's been completely disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and
professionally rebuilt with a new overhaul kit and other new parts installed
if required. No performance modifications made to these carburetors whatsoever.
Includes choke plate installed. Comes with a reversible downward or upward
swing choke lever to match the position of the lever on your original carburetor.
Simply remove the retaining screw and reposition the choke lever according
to your application. Need to remove the choke shaft from the carburetor
body. (This is a distinctive A-1 Miller's feature that others do not
offer.) When ordering, please specify the position of the choke lever.
The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be initially set
on the carburetor just to get the engine running, but due to the altitude
level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine
will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments will
need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth. Kohler carburetor
part #'s 52 053 09, 52 053 18 or 52 053 28. One of these numbers should be
stamped on mounting flange of your OEM Kohler carburetor. All carburetors
that we repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects
and come with a limited lifetime workmanship warranty from date of purchase.
Warranty includes FREE professional and honest technical support. NOTE:
Before considering replacing the carburetor, the engine may have insufficient
valve-to-lifter clearances or it may need a professional valve job performed
instead. So check and (re)set the valve clearances to factory specifications.
If there's black sooty (carbon) residue inside the carburetor throttle bore,
this means the intake valve definitely has insufficient clearance. Because
sometimes misdiagnosed carburetor problems can be faulty valves.
-
$45.00 each, with rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in, plus
shipping & handling. (When available or in stock.)
-
$65.00 each, outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling.
(When available or in stock.)
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Rebuild YOUR OEM Carter
or Kohler carburetor. Total cost depends on which parts it will need and
amount of labor required so it will function like a new one.
$65.00-$135.00± for parts and labor each, plus return shipping
& handling.
 High Quality Aftermarket Kohler-replicated #26 fully adjustable
carburetor. Fits Kohler engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II,
KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20.
Direct replacement. Same function and appearance as OEM Carter or Kohler
carburetor. Comes with a reversible downward or upward swing choke lever
to match the position of the lever on your original carburetor. Simply remove
the retaining screw and reposition the choke lever according to your
application. (This is a distinctive A-1 Miller's feature that other sellers
do not offer.) When ordering, please specify the position of the choke
lever. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be initially
set on the carburetor just to get the engine running, but due to the altitude
level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine
will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments will
need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth. Each come
with a lifetime warranty from date of purchase.
-
$35.00 each, with rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in, plus
shipping & handling.
-
$55.00 each, outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling.
Carburetors for Kohler engine
models K482, K532 and K582. All carburetors that we repair, rebuild,
modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with a limited
lifetime workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE
professional and honest technical support. NOTE: Although the carburetor
for the K482 and K532 engines can also be used on the K582 engine, which
produces 24hp at 3,600 RPM with the correct carburetor, would produce about
21hp because it would be drawing less air through the smaller carburetor.
Also, before considering replacing the carburetor, the engine may have
insufficient valve-to-lifter clearances or it may need a professional valve
job performed instead. So check and (re)set the valve clearances to factory
specifications. If there's black sooty (carbon) residue inside the carburetor
throttle bore, this means the intake valve definitely has insufficient clearance.
Because sometimes misdiagnosed carburetor problems can be faulty valves.
Professionally Rebuilt OEM Kohler #26 (1.07" throttle bore) carburetor
designed specifically for Kohler engine models K482 and K532. Cleaned
and professionally rebuilt with a new overhaul kit, new [snug] throttle shaft
(if needed) and other new parts if required. Discontinued Kohler part #'s
A-277373, A-277910, C-277061, C-277329, 48 053 01, 48 053 03, 48 053 05,
48 053 07, 48 053 08, 48 053 09, 48 053 10, 48 053 12, 48 053 13, 48 053
14, 48 053 29. One of these numbers should be stamped on mounting flange
of your OEM carburetor. NOTE: Please
mail us photo(s) of your OEM
Kohler carburetor so we can match it to one that we may have in stock. We
may have to install the correct type of choke lever on ours to match yours.
Because nothing works better than the original type of carburetor. (When
available or in stock.)
-
$70.00 each with a rebuildable core trade-in, plus shipping &
handling.
-
$100.00 each outright, plus shipping & handling.
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Rebuild YOUR OEM Carter
or Kohler carburetor. Total cost depends on which parts it will need and
amount of labor required so it will function like a new one.
$65.00-$135.00± for parts and labor each, plus return shipping
& handling.
Professionally Rebuilt OEM Kohler #30 (1.2" throttle bore) carburetor
designed specifically for Kohler engine model K582. Cleaned and
professionally rebuilt with a new overhaul kit, new [snug] throttle shaft
(if needed) and other new parts if required. Discontinued Kohler part #'s
48 053 06, 48 053 11, 48 053 13, 48 053 16, 48 053 18, 48 053 24, 48 053
25, 48 053 27. One of these numbers should be stamped on mounting flange
of your OEM carburetor. NOTE: Please
mail us photo(s) of your OEM
Kohler carburetor so we can match it to one that we may have in stock. We
may have to install the correct type of choke lever on ours to match yours.
Because nothing works better than the original type of carburetor. (When
available or in stock.)
-
$70.00 each with a rebuildable core trade-in, plus shipping &
handling.
-
$100.00 each outright, plus shipping & handling.
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Rebuild YOUR OEM Carter
or Kohler carburetor. Total cost depends on which parts it will need and
amount of labor required so it will function like a new one.
$65.00-$135.00± for parts and labor each, plus return shipping
& handling.
High Quality Aftermarket Kohler-replicated fully adjustable #26 (1.07"
throttle bore) carburetor. Designed specifically for Kohler engine models
K482 and K532. NOTE: Please mail
us photo(s) of your OEM Kohler carburetor so we can match it to one that
we may have in stock. We may have to install the correct type of choke lever
on ours to match yours. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 48 053
07-S. $65.00 each outright, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Aftermarket Kohler-replicated fully adjustable #28 (1.17"
throttle bore) carburetor. Designed specifically for Kohler engine model
K582. NOTE: Please mail us
photo(s) of your OEM Kohler carburetor so we can match it to one that we
may have in stock. We may have to install the correct type of choke lever
on ours to match yours. Replaces discontinued Kohler part #'s 48
053 06-S or 48 053 16-S. $65.00 each outright, plus shipping &
handling. |
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair
Service - Professional Stock-Appearing, "Old School" Technology, High Performance
Carburetor Modifications - Modify YOUR OEM Carter or Kohler #26 or #30 carburetor
for enhanced performance on a competition garden tractor pulling
engine. [Top of Page]
The carburetor is modified
for maximum performance to increase airflow into the combustion chamber.
Stock-appearing means Carter or Kohler #26, #28 or #30 carburetor (except
Walbro) is modified internally to improve engine performance. The venturi
is bored-out to .995", 1" or straight-through design (to match the diameter
of throttle bore) or whatever your club's sanctioning rules allow for use
with pump gas, E85 or methanol fuel. Please specify if your engine has
stock size valves or an oversize intake valve. And we may need a copy
of your association's/club's sanctioning rules regarding the legality of
the carburetor so when we rework/modify it, it'll be legal for the class
you plan to pull in. The idle speed, idle air/fuel mixture and high speed
air/fuel adjusters will be initially set on the carburetor just to get the
engine running, but due to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure
and air temperature where the engine will be used, final adjustments will
need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth. All carburetors
that we repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects
and come with a limited lifetime workmanship warranty from date of purchase.
Warranty includes FREE professional and honest technical support. FYI
- After I modify/rework a Carter or Kohler carburetor for high performance
use, as long as everything else are all in good condition with the
engine, including the
ignition timing,
valve train, etc., the carburetor
will, without a doubt, perform flawlessly. - Brian Miller
-
Bore-out and rework carburetor for improved performance. $85.00 labor
each, plus return shipping & handling. Extra charge if any missing, worn
beyond reuse or broken parts are required.
-
Before the venturi can be bored-out, the main jet/nozzle must be removed.
If it is stuck and must be drilled out, there is an extra $50.00 charge.
This includes the price of a new main jet/nozzle.
-
If the carburetor needs a bushing for the throttle shaft installed, there
is an extra $10.00 charge. Or if it needs a new throttle shaft and
bushing, there is an extra $40.00 charge.
-
Convert carburetor to bottom main fuel
adjuster. (Only for open RPM/wide open throttle operation competition
pulling engines). $17.00 extra.
-
No extra charge to convert your carburetor for use with E85 or methanol fuels
with the high performance modifications.
-
NOTE: All high performance carburetors that we modify (bore-out and rework)
are guaranteed to allow the engine to rev up at its full potential. If the
engine will not rev up fully, and a
high-output/performance ignition coil and
a medium capacity (OEM/ordinary) condenser are being used, which can
result in a weak spark, then the coil needs two medium capacity condensers
or one high-capacity/performance condenser to produce a stronger spark.
Fully Adjustable Competition
Pulling #26 and #30 Carburetors Bored-Out and Reworked for High Performance
Use. The carburetors listed below will help your tractor pull strong
on the track! A bored-out venturi and reworked carburetor is when the carburetor
is modified for maximum performance for general yard and garden use, and/or
for competition pulling. These carburetors have been modified by Brian Miller
to outperform an OEM stock Carter or Kohler carburetor under heavy competition
pulling load, and when adjusted correctly, may not run lean at high RPM while
going down the track. Stock externally appearing will pass tech with virtually
any pulling association or club. The venturi in these carburetors are bored
to either .995", 1" or 1.2" straight-through throttle bore for open RPM,
setup for gas, E85 or methanol fuels, whatever your club's sanctioning rules
allow or whatever you desire for all-out engine performance. Please specify
if engine has stock size valves or an oversize intake valve. The idle
speed, idle air/fuel mixture and high speed air/fuel adjusters will be initially
set on the carburetor just to get the engine running, but due to the altitude
level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine
will be used, final adjustments will need to be made by the customer so the
engine will run smooth. All carburetors that we repair, rebuild, modify or
sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with a limited lifetime
workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE professional
and honest technical support.
NOTE: All carburetors are "built
to order." So when placing an order, please specify if your engine has a
factory stock size or oversize intake valve, if you want it with a .995"
or 1" venturi, or a straight-thru throttle bore (no venturi), if the engine
is going to turn 4,000± RPM or open RPM/wide open throttle operation,
and if you want the choke plate/shaft installed.
-
OEM Kohler #26 carburetor or high quality aftermarket Kohler-replicated
#26 reworked carburetor with venturi bored to .995" (NQS legal), 1" or 1.07"
with top main fuel adjuster when sanctioning pulling rules require this size
venturi. Recommended for up to 4,000 RPM and/or with stock size valves.
$100.00 each outright, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler #30 reworked carburetor with venturi bored to 1.2" with top
main fuel adjuster. Recommended for up to 4,000 RPM and/or with stock size
valves. This size carburetor not available in aftermarket.
NOTE: All high performance carburetors that we modify (bore-out and rework)
are guaranteed to allow the engine to rev up at its full potential. If the
engine will not rev up fully, and if a
high-output/performance ignition coil and
a medium capacity (OEM/ordinary) condenser are being used, which can
result in a weak spark, then the coil needs two medium capacity/OEM condensers
or one high-capacity/performance condenser to produce a stronger spark.
Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises
to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional
and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment
options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or
service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website. |
Advertisement: (Prices are subject to change without
notice.)
Click here to contact A-1 Miller's
Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing,
and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance
and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need
a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in
this website. |
NOTE - We have the capability to fabricate and duplicate
obsolete and hard to find throttle linkages and levers. If interested, please
email me a photo of the part(s)
that's needed (if possible) with the exact dimensions. |
Carburetor-to-Block
Mounting Gaskets. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161,
KV161,
L160/L161,
L181, K181, M8, and various other makes and models of small engines
with Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 and Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetor.
Approximately 1/64" compressed thickness. NOTE: Thoroughly clean off old
gasket material to prevent a vacuum leak.
-
High quality aftermarket. A-1 Miller's part # 14-1084. Replaces Kohler part
# 210223-S and Tecumseh part # 31960A. $1.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 210223-S. $3.05 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Air Cleaner Base
or Intake Elbow Adapter-to-Carburetor Mounting Gasket. Fits most older Tecumseh
carburetors and Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161,
KV161,
L160/L161,
L181, K181, M8, and various other makes and models of small engines
with Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 or Walbro WHL #36, #44 and LME
carburetor. Approximately 1/32" compressed thickness. Use with two mounting
screws.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 220537 and
Tecumseh part # 27272A. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Air
Cleaner Base-to-Carburetor Mounting Gasket. Fits various Kohler engine models
K181 and M8, and various other makes and models of small engines with Walbro
WHL #36, #44 carburetor. Not available in aftermarket.
-
OEM Kohler part # 41 041 04-S. $4.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Air Cleaner
Base or Intake Elbow Adapter-to-Carburetor Mounting Gaskets. Fits Kohler
engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, M8, and various other makes
and models of small engines with Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 and
Walbro WHL 36, #44 carburetor. Can be used with two or three mounting screws,
depending on type of air cleaner. Approximately 1/32" compressed thickness.
Alternative gasket to the left.
-
High quality aftermarket. A-1 Miller's part # 7795. Replaces Kohler part
# 41 041 11-S. $1.10 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 41 041 11-S. $1.65 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Carburetor-to-Block
(Thin) Mounting Gaskets. Fits Kohler engine models K241, M10, K301, M12,
K330/K331, K321, M14, K341, M16, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II,
KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20 K482,
K532 and K582 with Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 or Walbro WHG #52, #60,
#64 carburetor. For general lawn and garden use. Approximately 1/32" compressed
thickness. NOTE: Thoroughly clean off old gasket material to prevent a
vacuum leak.
-
High quality aftermarket. replaces Kohler part # 271030-S. $1.50 each,
plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 271030-S. $3.75 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Carburetor-to-Block
(Thick) Heat Isolator Mounting Gasket. Fits Kohler engine models K241,
M10, K301, M12, K330/K331, K321, M14, K341 and M16 with Carter or Kohler
#26, #28, #30 or Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetor. Use for heavy yard
and/or garden work, or for competition pulling engines. Has one gasket adhered
to each side of heat resistant
phenolic
resin center. Approximately .230" compressed total thickness. NOTE:
Thoroughly clean off old gasket material to prevent a vacuum leak. FYI:
This particular gasket prevents engine heat from being transferred to the
carburetor, resulting in cooling and better
atomization
of the fuel before entering the combustion chamber, improving engine
performance.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 47 049 01-S. $15.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 47 049 01-S. $18.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Air Cleaner
Base-to-Carburetor Mounting Gaskets. Fits Kohler engine models K241, K301,
K321, K330/K331, K341, and various Magnum engine models M10, M12, M14 and
M16 with Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 or Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetor
with the round air cleaner/filter
assembly. NOTE: This gasket can be used on the KT-series and Magnum
opposed twin cylinder engine carburetors by making a hole at 2:00 position
with a [paper]
hole punch to resemble the gasket below.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 275341-S. $3.00 each,
plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 275341-S. $4.25 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Air Cleaner
Base-to-Carburetor Mounting Gasket. Fits Kohler AQS "Quiet Line" engine models
K241, K301, K321, K341 and K361, and various Magnum engine models M10, M12,
M14 and M16 with Kohler #26, #30 or Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetor with
the round or oblong/egg-shape
air cleaner/filter assembly.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 275341-S. $4.50 each,
plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 45 041 07-S. $4.95 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Air Intake Elbow
Adapter-to-Carburetor Mounting Gasket. Fits Kohler engine models K321, K341,
KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II,
KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20, K482, K532 and K582.
-
OEM Kohler part # 25 041 06-S. $2.30 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Square-shape
Air Cleaner Base-to-Elbow Adapter Mounting Gasket. Fits Kohler engine models
CH25, CH730-740, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design),
KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20, K482, K532 and K582.
Approximately 1/32" compressed thickness. Not available in aftermarket.
-
OEM Kohler part # 277093-S. $5.70 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Intake
Manifold-to-Cylinder Mounting Gasket. Fits Kohler opposed twin cylinder engine
models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series
II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Approximately 1/32" compressed
thickness. NOTE: Thoroughly clean off all old gasket material to prevent
a vacuum leak.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 52 041 09-S. $3.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 52 041 09-S. $5.84 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Intake
Manifold-to-Block Mounting Gasket. Fits Kohler opposed twin cylinder engine
models K482, K532 and K582. Not available in aftermarket. NOTE:
Thoroughly clean off all old gasket material to prevent a vacuum leak.
-
OEM Kohler part # 48 052 02-S. $4.38 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
 Carburetor Overhaul Kits. Fits Carter and Kohler carburetors
used on Kohler K-series and early Magnum single and opposed twin cylinder
engines, and various other makes and models of small engines. Includes
Viton-tip
fuel inlet float valve, brass fuel inlet seat w/gasket, neoprene rubber
bowl-to-carburetor body O-ring seal, neoprene rubber fuel baffle/splash shield,
fiber bottom washer and float hinge pin. All rubber-like parts made of
alcohol-resistant
neoprene.
High quality aftermarket kits is equal to or surpasses quality of OEM
Kohler overhaul kit. Fuel inlet seat in this kit requires a 3/8" thin-wall
deep well hex socket to install. IMPORTANT: Before reinstalling a used float
bowl on the carburetor, place it on a hard, flat surface, and flatten the
bottom of the bowl from the inside with a small hammer. When the bowl is
installed on the carburetor body with the retaining bolt tightened, this
will "clamp" or squeeze the fuel baffle/splash shield against the O-ring
to prevent splashing fuel from seeping out around the top of the float bowl
when the engine is in operation.
-
Overhaul Kit. Fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20 and #22 Carburetors
for Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161 and K181, including various other
makes and models of small engines with the Carter Model N carburetor. Comes
with 5/16" I.D. sealing gasket (made of fiber material or soft aluminum)
for float bowl retaining bolt. Distinctive A-1 Miller's irrelevant part.
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part #'s 25 757 01-S, 25 757 02-S.
$9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Overhaul Kits. Each fits Carter and Kohler #26, #28, #30 Carburetors for
Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341 and K361. Each come
with 3/8" I.D. sealing gasket (made of fiber material) for float bowl retaining
bolt.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part #'s 25 757 01-S, 25 757 02-S.
$9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Fits Carter and Kohler #26, #28, #30 Carburetors. OEM Kohler part #'s 25
757 01-S, 25 757 02-S. $17.60 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Rebuild YOUR OEM Carter
or Kohler carburetor. Total cost depends on which parts will need to be replaced
and/or any machining required so it will function like a new one.
$65.00-$135.00± for parts and labor each, plus return shipping
& handling.
High Quality 1/4" Drive 10mm
6 Point Thin-Wall Deep Well Socket for removing and installing the 10mm
aftermarket or 3/8" size fuel inlet brass seat in the Carter Model N #13,
#16, #18, #20, #22, or Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30, and aftermarket
Kohler-replicated carburetors. Machined thin by A-1 Miller's to fit into
the confined space of the fuel inlet seat cavity in the carburetor body.
An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else
advertise this special socket.
$10.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
 Float Bowl-to-Carburetor Body O-Ring Seals. This particular
part prevents splashing fuel inside the float bowl from leaking out caused
by normal or high RPM engine vibrations. Required in all carburetors. Each
fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22, and Carter or Kohler #26, #28,
#30 carburetors used on the Kohler K-series and early Magnum single cylinder
4hp-16hp, 18hp OHV single- and opposed twin-cylinder flathead cast iron block
engines. Also fits Tecumseh engines with the Carter or Walbro carburetors
with the large bowl, and Briggs and Stratton 7hp-12hp vertical shaft flathead
engine carburetors. (FYI - The early Briggs & Stratton float carburetors
was designed and made by the
Carter Carburetor Corporation.) Dimensions (±):
2-3/16" I.D. x 2-7/16" O.D. x .040" thickness. Alcohol-resistant neoprene
rubber O-ring included in overhaul/rebuild kits listed above
È. IMPORTANT: Before reinstalling
a used float bowl on the carburetor, place it on a hard, flat surface, and
flatten the bottom of the bowl from the inside with a small hammer. When
the bowl is installed on the carburetor body with the retaining bolt tightened,
this will "clamp" or squeeze the fuel baffle/splash shield against the O-ring
to prevent splashing fuel from seeping out around the top of the float bowl
when the engine is in operation.
-
OEM Briggs & Stratton part # 270511. Made of alcohol-resistant and durable
paper-like gasket material. $1.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
High quality aftermarket. Made of alcohol-resistant
neoprene
rubber. Replaces Kohler part # 200375-S. $2.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 200375-S. Made of alcohol-resistant
neoprene
rubber. $5.12 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
 Alcohol-Resistant
Neoprene
Rubber Fuel Baffle/Splash Shields. This particular part prevents splashing
fuel inside the float bowl from traveling up through the atmospheric vent
passageway and possibly being sucked into the throttle bore, which can
momentarily cause engine misfire due to normal or high RPM engine vibrations.
Fastens between bowl O-ring seal and float bowl. Required in all carburetors.
Fits all Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 and Carter or Kohler #26,
#28, #30 carburetors used on the Kohler K-series and early Magnum single
cylinder 4hp-16hp, 18hp OHV single- and opposed twin-cylinder flathead cast
iron block engines. Included in overhaul/rebuild kit listed above
È. IMPORTANT: Before reinstalling
a used float bowl on the carburetor, place it on a hard, flat surface, and
flatten the bottom of the bowl from the inside with a small hammer. When
the bowl is installed on the carburetor body with the retaining bolt tightened,
this will "clamp" or squeeze the fuel baffle/splash shield against the O-ring
to prevent splashing fuel from seeping out around the top of the float bowl
when the engine is in operation.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 25 041 02-S. $3.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 25 041 02-S. $4.92 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Brass Float.
Fits all Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22, and Carter or Kohler #26,
#28, #30 carburetors used on the Kohler K-series, early Magnum single cylinder
K90-K361 single- and opposed twin-cylinder flathead cast iron block engines.
May also fit certain carburetors used on Onan engines. Replaces the very
early obsolete tapered/inverted cone-shape brass float in the Carter Model
N #13 carburetor used on the Kohler K90 and various other makes and models
of small engines. Dimensions (±): 15/16" I.D. x 1-15/16" O.D. x 5/8"
tall. NOTE: The float level/height must be set correctly on ALL brass
floats when installed. They do not come preset. The correct way to set the
float level is remove the carburetor from the engine, remove the float bowl,
and with the carburetor upside-down, use a small flat blade screwdriver to
bend the tab on the float slightly one way or the other to set the float
parallel with the carburetor body. Make sure the float moves up and down
freely, too. If it binds or sticks, carefully use a flat file to narrow the
sides of the hinge for clearance. Be careful not to file into the float
itself!
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 25 757 03-S.
$10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Float Stabilizer
Spring. Fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22, and Carter or Kohler
#26, #28, #30 carburetors. Minimizes float bounce due to normal competition
pulling engine vibration at open RPM/wide open throttle operation, or excessive
small all terrain vehicle "bouncing around" over rough and uneven terrain,
which could cause momentary engine misfire and/or fuel spillage out of the
atmospheric vent opening (air passageway from inside the float bowl area
to outside of carburetor). Not necessary for 4,000± RPM competition
pulling engines or ordinary general lawn and garden equipment.
-
Used and in excellent condition. $7.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
(When available)
-
New. OEM Kohler part # 237917-S. $14.30 each, plus shipping &
handling.
|
Cylindrical Float
Bowl with 5/16" Hole. Designed for all Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20,
#22 carburetors used on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161,
KV161,
L160/L161,
L181, K181, including various other makes and models of small
engines. Available in aluminum only. Replaces very
early obsolete tapered/inverted cone-shape float bowl on the Carter Model
N #13 carburetor used on the Kohler K90 and various other makes and models
of small engines. Dimensions: 2-3/8" O.D. x 1-1/4" height x 5/16" bottom
hole. NOTE: The float bowls listed below can be used in place of this
one. The 5/16" bottom bolt/washer will seal the 3/8" hole.
-
OEM Kohler part # 200418-S. $26.30 each, plus shipping & handling.
Float Bowls with 3/8" Hole.
Fits all Carter and Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors used on Kohler engine
models K241, K301, K330/K331, K321, K341, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17
Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, K482, K532 and K582.
Also fits Briggs and Stratton 7hp-12hp vertical shaft flathead engine
carburetors. NOTE: The Briggs & Stratton steel float bowl has the
exact same dimensions as the Carter or Kohler aluminum float bowl. Either
are interchangeable. (In fact, the early B&S 7-12hp vertical shaft flathead
engine float carburetors was designed and made by the
Carter Carburetor Corporation.) Dimensions of each
float bowl: 2-3/8" O.D. x 1-1/4" height x 3/8" bottom hole.
-
Durable Anodized Steel Float Bowl. Will not dent easily and corrode through
due to water contamination. OEM Briggs and Stratton part # 221995.
$8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Aluminum Float Bowl. OEM Kohler part # 235448-S. $16.60 each, plus
shipping & handling.
|
Carburetor Overhaul
Kits with
Viton-tip
fuel inlet float valve. Fits Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64
carburetors that's used on Kohler Magnum engine models M8, M10, M12, M14,
M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Also fits Walbro WHG-16-1, WHG-17-1,
WHG-18-1, WHG-25-1, WHG-26-1, WHG-27-1, WHG-28-1, WHG-31-1, WHG-35-1, WHG-44-1,
WHG-53-1 and WHG-96-1 carburetors used on larger cast iron block Tecumseh
engines. May also fit Walbro carburetors used on certain Onan engines. All
rubber-like parts made of alcohol-resistant
neoprene.
Includes carburetor mounting gasket. NOTE: On all Walbro WHL and WHG
carburetors, the fuel inlet seat is pressed-in at the factory. If it's replaced
with a new seat, fuel will likely leak around the edge of the seat and overflow
the float bowl, rendering the carburetor body useless. So it'll be best to
just install a new fuel inlet valve and leave the OEM seat intact. Remember
- In the laws of physics, the moving part will likely to wear more than the
stationary part.
-
OEM Walbro part # K1-WHG. Replaces Tecumseh part # 632445. $13.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 25 757 11-S. $60.35 each, plus shipping & handling.
Alcohol-Resistant
Viton-tip
fuel inlet float valve. Fits Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64
carburetors that's used on Kohler Magnum engine models M8, M10, M12, M14,
M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Also fits Walbro WHG-16-1, WHG-17-1,
WHG-18-1, WHG-25-1, WHG-26-1, WHG-27-1, WHG-28-1, WHG-31-1, WHG-35-1, WHG-44-1,
WHG-53-1 and WHG-96-1 carburetors used on larger cast iron block Tecumseh
engines. May also fit Walbro carburetors used on certain Onan engines. NOTE:
On all Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors, the fuel inlet
seat is pressed-in at the factory. If it's removed and replaced with a new
one, the carburetor body may be rendered useless, because it will mostly
likely leak fuel. So it'll be best to just install a new fuel inlet valve
and leave the seat alone. Remember - in the laws of physics, the moving part
will wear more than the stationary part. Not available separately from
Kohler. OEM Walbro part # 82-529-7. $7.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
Float Bowl Rubber O-Ring Seal.
Fits Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors that's used on
Kohler Magnum engine models M8, M10, M12, M14, M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20
and MV20. Also fits Walbro WHG-16-1, WHG-17-1, WHG-18-1, WHG-25-1, WHG-26-1,
WHG-27-1, WHG-28-1, WHG-31-1, WHG-35-1, WHG-44-1, WHG-53-1 and WHG-96-1
carburetors used on larger cast iron block Tecumseh engines. May also fit
Walbro carburetors used on certain Onan engines. Made of alcohol-resistant
neoprene
rubber. Dimensions (±): 2-3/8" I.D. x 2-1/2" O.D. x .065" thickness.
Square cross-section.
-
OEM Walbro part #'s 92-16-8, 92-301-8. $1.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
Kohler part # 25 041 04-S. (Same as above
È, made by Walbro.) $5.74 each,
plus shipping & handling.
Plastic Floats. Fits Walbro
WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors used on Kohler Magnum engine
models M8, M10, M12, M14, M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Also fits Walbro
WHG-16-1, WHG-17-1, WHG-18-1, WHG-25-1, WHG-26-1, WHG-27-1, WHG-28-1, WHG-31-1,
WHG-35-1, WHG-44-1, WHG-53-1 and WHG-96-1 carburetors used on larger cast
iron block Tecumseh engines. May also fit Walbro carburetors used on certain
Onan engines.
-
OEM Walbro part # 75-566-1. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Kohler part # 25 757 09-S. (Same as above
È, made by Walbro.) $20.59 each,
plus shipping & handling.
Float bowls. Fits Walbro WHL
#36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors used on Kohler Magnum engine models
K141, K160/K161, K181, M8, K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341, M16, MV16,
M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Also fits Walbro WHG-16-1, WHG-17-1, WHG-18-1, WHG-25-1,
WHG-26-1, WHG-27-1, WHG-28-1, WHG-31-1, WHG-35-1, WHG-44-1, WHG-53-1 and
WHG-96-1 carburetors used on larger cast iron block Tecumseh engines. May
also fit Walbro carburetors used on certain Onan engines. 2-1/2" outside
diameter. Each made of dent-proof, anodized, corrosion-resistant steel.
-
OEM Walbro part # 20-180-1. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Kohler part # 25 104 01-S. (Same as above
È, made by Walbro.) $18.05 each,
plus shipping & handling.
|
5/16" I.D. Float
Bowl Retaining Bolt Sealing Gaskets. Each listed below fits Carter Model
N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors, smaller Briggs & Stratton, Mikuni,
Tecumseh and various other makes and models of small engine carburetors.
Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161 and K181. Not included
with the OEM Carter or Kohler carburetor overhaul/rebuild kit.
-
Fiber Gasket. High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 200372-S;
Briggs & Stratton part #'s 221172, 271716, 691608, 691898, and Tecumseh
part #'s 27110A, 632673, 640042. $1.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Soft Aluminum Gasket. OEM Briggs & Stratton part #'s 222014, 397882,
690618. $1.60 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Fiber Gasket. OEM Kohler part # 200372-S. $2.10 each, plus shipping
& handling.
3/8" I.D. Float Bowl Retaining
Bolt Sealing Gaskets. Each listed below fits Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30
carburetors, Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetors, WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors.
Also fits certain larger Briggs & Stratton and various other makes and
models of small engine carburetors. Kits Kohler engine models K241, K301,
K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first
design), KT19 Series II, KT21, K482, K532 and K582, M10, M12, M14, M16, MV16,
M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Included with aftermarket and OEM Carter or Kohler
carburetor overhaul/rebuild kits. Each washer listed below .
-
Fiber Gasket. High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part #'s 200372-S,
12 041 06-S, 25 041 03-S; Walbro part # 92-300-8; Briggs & Stratton part
# 271716. .25¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Fiber Gasket. OEM Walbro part # 92-300-8. .45¢ each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
Fiber Gasket. OEM Briggs & Stratton part # 271716. .50¢ each,
plus shipping & handling.
-
Fiber Gasket. OEM Kohler part # 200372-S. $2.45 each, plus shipping
& handling.
Float Bowl Retaining Bolts.
Fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors used on Kohler engine
models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161,
KV161,
L160/L161,
L181, K181, including many various makes and models of various
small engines. Each includes fiber sealing washer. Dimensions: 5/16-24 UNF
threads x 3/8" thread length x 1/2" head size.
-
High quality aftermarket. A-1 Miller's part. Replaces discontinued Kohler
part # 41 100 01-S. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
New Old Stock or Used and in Excellent Condition. Discontinued Kohler part
# 41 100 01-S. $7.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When
available or in stock.)
Float Bowl Retaining Bolts.
Fits Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors, and Walbro WHL #36, #44
and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors used on Kohler engine models M8, K241,
M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341, M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Also
fits the carburetor on all Briggs & Stratton opposed twin cylinder flathead
engines. Replaces obsolete Briggs & Stratton part # 397882. Each includes
fiber sealing washer.
-
3/8-24 UNF threads x 3/8" thread length x 1/2" head. OEM Walbro part # 96-340-7.
$3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
3/8-24 UNF threads x 3/8" thread length x 1/2" head. OEM Kohler part # 12
086 05-S. (Same as above È, made by
Walbro.) $2.58 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
3/8-24 UNF threads x 3/8" thread length x 9/16" head. New Old Stock or Used
and in Excellent Condition. Discontinued Kohler part # 47 100 06-S.
$5.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Convert the Carter or Kohler
#26, #28 or #30 Carburetor to a Bottom Main Fuel Adjuster -
[Top of Page]
 The bottom high speed main fuel adjuster assembly has 3/8"
fine threads, and is not an OEM Kohler part and is not a modification by
Kohler. The conversion provides no high performance engine enhancements
whatsoever, but it is an absolute must for an open RPM competition pulling
engine. It's an add-on feature that replaces the OEM float bowl retaining
bolt listed above only to prevent wearing of and enlarging the fuel main
jet hole by the end of the OEM high speed needle air/fuel adjustment screw
due to normal engine vibration at open RPM engine operation. This conversion
have been proven many times to function flawlessly for a 4,000 RPM
stock competition pulling engine and for an open RPM competition pulling
engine! Read below how to convert a Carter or Kohler carburetor for use with
the bottom adjuster.
Actually, the same bottom fuel
adjuster design that's mentioned here was first used on Briggs & Stratton's
6-12.5hp vertical shaft flathead engine carburetors, which was designed and
made by the
Carter Carburetor Corporation, and it works excellent!
The B&S bottom adjuster has 5/16" fine threads and will not fit the Carter
or Kohler #26, #28 or #30 carburetors, but will fit the Carter Model N #13,
#16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors when these carburetors is converted for use
with the bottom adjuster.
-
Bottom Main Fuel Adjuster with Nylon Spacer Kit. Fits all Carter or Kohler
#26, #28 and #30 carburetors used on Kohler K-series and early Magnum engine
models K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341, M16 and K361. Can also be used
in the carburetor on all Briggs & Stratton opposed twin cylinder flathead
engines to "fine tune" the high speed air/fuel mixture. NOTICE: Being
I have no idea how long the bottom adjusters that I order from our suppliers
been sitting on their shelf, the original rubber O-ring may or may not be
deteriorated, cracked and dry-rotted. The new bottom adjuster can be used
the way it is, but if it leaks fuel, it will need a new rubber O-ring installed.
Make sure the compression nut is snug against the O-ring too, to prevent
a fuel leak and to prevent the adjuster valve from rotating outward on its
own from normal engine vibrations. $25.00 per kit, plus shipping
& handling.
-
New high quality alcohol-resistant
neoprene
rubber O-ring seal for bottom main fuel adjustment assembly listed above.
Dimensions: 5/32" I.D. x 9/32" O.D. .25¢ each, plus shipping
& handling.
How to Convert a Carter or Kohler #26, #28 or #30 Carburetor for use with
the Bottom Main Fuel Adjuster - This simple and easy to do design
is a proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody
else advertise this type of simple, low cost foolproof conversion.
-
Use pliers to break off the
tip of the OEM high speed [long needle] main fuel top adjuster at the lower
idle fuel feed hole (orifice). (It's just soft brass.) Doing this turns
the high speed adjuster into just an idle fuel vacuum tube. Preferably
use an adjuster with a damaged tip for this conversion. There's no need to
ruin a good adjuster for this.
-
Grind to a dull point/bevel the end of the stem/tube so fuel can flow around
it smoothly at high RPM without disruption.
-
Use a
carburetor jet cleaner wire set or an
oxy-acetylene welding torch tip cleaner of the correct
size, and then use 150± P.S.I. air pressure to clear out any remaining
dried gas or debris to allow fuel to be drawn through the tube so the engine
will idle.
-
Replace the OEM compression spring [on the top adjuster] with a 1/4" I.D.
x 1/4" length aluminum, nylon or steel spacer, or a stack of small O.D. washers
measuring 1/4" I.D. x 1/4" in height. NOTE: The 1/4" height spacer/washers
positions the very end of the stem/tube approximately midway in the float
bowl and about 3/16" above the main jet hole so fuel can be drawn through
the stem/tube for the engine to idle. If the end of the stem/tube is installed
too low, it may make contact with the bottom adjuster, or if it's installed
too high, the engine may not idle.
-
Reinstall the top adjuster in the carburetor body with the spacer or washers
and tighten it in place, making it fixed and non-adjustable. Making the
top adjuster adjustable with the spring at this point will serve no purpose
whatsoever.
-
Reinstall the float, bowl, etc. in reverse order of removal, and install
the bottom adjuster instead of the OEM float bowl retaining bolt, and tighten
the bottom adjuster with a new sealing washer. IMPORTANT - Do not overtighten
the bottom adjuster! This could strip out the threads in the carburetor body,
which would render it totally useless.
-
Install the carburetor on the engine, linkages, fuel hose, and start the
engine.
-
Adjust the idle air/fuel
mixture screw and the high speed air/fuel mixture bottom adjustment screw
until the engine idles smoothly and revs to full throttle without running
lean or too rich on fuel.
FYI - Absolutely nothing needs to be done to the idle fuel passageway or
the idle air/fuel mixture adjustment screw. Just leave them as-is, or use
150± P.S.I. compressed air with an
air blow gun nozzle to clear out the idle fuel passageway
if necessary. The engine should idle fine after this conversion is performed.
And there's definitely no need to install a small brass tube next to the
float going directly up to the idle air/fuel mixture adjustment screw. Doing
this could cause the brass tube to interfere with the operation of the float
at high RPM. Also, if you're wondering if the presence of the top fuel adjuster
stem/tube in a bored-out "straight through" throttle bore will slow down
the incoming airflow, well, the throttle plate and throttle shaft are about
30% wider than the diameter of the top adjuster stem/tube, even with the
throttle shaft ground/milled narrow or made thin to allow for more airflow
through the carburetor.
[Return To Previous Paragraph or
Section] |
Brass Main
Jets/Nozzles (Emulsion Tubes). Fits all OEM Carter and Kohler #26, #28 and
#30, and aftermarket carburetors (with the 1.07", 1.17", 1.2" and 1.25" throttle
bore) used on Kohler K-series and early Magnum engine models K241, M10, K301,
M12, K321, M14, K341, M16, K361 and all Kohler opposed twin cylinder engines.
Each drilled for gas, not methanol.
-
Used and in excellent condition. $15.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. (When available or in stock.)
-
New. This part is professionally CNC machined and not available from Kohler.
Irrelevant OEM Kohler part number. $20.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. (When available or in stock.)
NOTE: When rebuilding a plain, stock Carter or Kohler carburetor,
in most cases, there's no need to remove the main jet/nozzle. If it won't
come out, then don't worry about it. All that has to be done to make sure
the bottom hole (jet) and the emulsion/side holes are open and clear of debris.
To check if the emulsion/side holes are open, simply spray WD-40 or carburetor
cleaner (in an aerosol can) through the small hole just under the choke plate
and observe if the spray exits out the main nozzle in the throttle bore and
out the jet in the bottom of the carburetor. But if the screwdriver slot
in the main jet/nozzle is slightly stripped and it was able to be removed,
for easier reinstallation, with the main jet/nozzle gently clamped in a bench
vise, use a hacksaw blade to cut a slightly deeper screwdriver slot in the
main jet/nozzle. And if modifying a carburetor to bore the venturi, the main
jet/nozzle must be removed.
Click here to learn
how to remove the main jet/nozzle. |
Kohler
Anti-Backfire/Engine Shut-Off Solenoid Valve Kit. This anti-backfire
solenoid valve fits in the carburetor and shuts off the engine when the ignition
is turned off. The solenoid is energized the entire time the ignition switch
is turned on to allow incoming air in the float bowl so the engine will run.
When the ignition is turned off, it blocks off the incoming air in the float
bowl to create a vacuum in the float bowl to prevent fuel from entering the
combustion chamber, so the engine eventually shuts down. And with no raw
fuel in the hot muffler, there is no possibility of a backfire. When the
solenoid fails to function, the engine will not start. This particular part
is designed for Kohler engine models K181 with specification numbers 13802,
13803, 13804, 13805, 13806, 13807, 13808, 13809, 13810, 13811, 13812, 13813,
13814, 13815, 13816, 13817, 13818, 13820, 30671, 30715, 30739; M18 with
specification numbers 24610, 24637, 24652; M20 with specification numbers
49547, 49564, 49605; K582 with specification numbers 36246, 36249, 36261,
36266, 36268, 36285, 36310, 36327, 36337, 36350, 36371, 36373, 36374, 36376,
36382, 36392, 24600, 24603. OEM Kohler part # 25 755 05-S. $101.45
each, plus shipping & handling.
NOTE: Being the solenoid (OEM Kohler part # 25 755 06-S) for Kohler engine
models M18 with specification numbers: 24563, 24568, 24574, 24577, 24592,
24594, 24599, 24619, 24630, 24631, 24636, 24646, 24655, 24656, 24659, 24664,
24674, 24696, 49514, 49544, 49545, 49565, 49569, 49570, 49572; M20 with
specification numbers: 49584, 49595, 49599, 49608, 49623, 49624, 49629; MV20
with specification numbers: 57501-57514, 57527, 57528 is no longer available,
to convert these engines without use of the solenoid, remove the failed solenoid
and valve, cut short 3/8" threads in the hole (remove the float bowl first
and use compressed air with an
air blow gun nozzle to clear out the metal cuttings
afterwards), and install a short 3/8" Allen set screw in the hole. Don't
thread the set screw deep into the hole, or it will block off outside atmospheric
air from entering the float bowl. Without a solenoid and with the conversion,
the engine will require a different ignition switch to shut off the spark.
And the engine should be idled down before shutting it off to lessen the
chance of a backfire out the muffler. |
Idle Air/Fuel
Mixture Adjustment Screw w/Short Stepped End. Fits Carter Model N #13, #16,
#18, #20, #22 carburetors with following numbers stamped on top of carburetor
body: G-220517, C-231738, B-231739, 41 053 01, 41 053 13, 41 053 18, 41 053
20 used with Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161,
KV161,
L160/L161,
L181, K181. This same part also fits the Carter and Kohler #28
or #30 carburetors with the 1.17", 1.2" or 1.25" throttle bore with following
numbers stamped on mounting flange: 45 053 08, 45 053 09, 45 053 12, 45 053
20, 45 053 68, 45 053 70, 45 053 76, 45 053 86, 45 053 87, 45 053 88, 45
053 89, 47 053 03, 47 053 09, 47 053 15, 47 053 16, 47 053 17, 47 053 20,
47 053 30, 47 053 41, 47 053 63, 47 053 78 used with Kohler engine models
K321, K341 and K361. If there's no numbers anywhere on the carburetor
body, then it's definitely an aftermarket carburetor. Because Carter, Kohler
and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on the flange of all their carburetors.
Short step tip. Dimensions: .200" tip length x 8-40 NS (special size
threads) x .865" overall length. High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued
Kohler part #'s 275231-S and 200438-S. NOTE: Being this aftermarket idle
mixture screw has slightly smaller diameter threads than the OEM idle mixture
screw, it's recommended to use this with a snug-fitting neoprene rubber O-ring
(listed below) on an OEM Carter or Kohler carburetor. $10.00 each,
plus shipping & handling.
 Neoprene Rubber O-Ring for Aftermarket Idle Air/Fuel Mixture
Adjustment Screw (above) when used on the OEM Carter or Kohler #28 or #30
carburetors. This is an add-on item; Carter and Kohler carburetors did not
originally come with an O-ring on the idle mixture screw. Install this part
to help the engine start quicker (with throttle in idle position), idle smoothly,
and idle down upon deceleration without hesitation or stalling.
.25¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
Idle Air/Fuel Mixture Adjustment
Screw w/Long Stepped End. Fits Carter or Kohler #26 carburetors with 1.07"
throttle bore used with Kohler engine models K241, K301 and K330/K331. Designed
specifically for Kohler carburetors with following numbers stamped on mounting
flange: 47 053 07, 47 053 08, 47 053 12, 47 053 13, 47 053 14, 47 053 15,
47 053 16, 47 053 24, 47 053 29, 47 053 35, 47 053 40, 47 053 62, 47 053
80, 52 053 60. If there's no numbers anywhere on the carburetor body,
then it's definitely an aftermarket carburetor. Because Carter, Kohler and
Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on the flange of all their carburetors.
Long step tip. Dimensions: .260" tip length x 8-40 NS (special size threads)
x .925" overall length. Being this is an OEM part, a rubber O-ring is not
required. Not available in aftermarket. Used and in excellent condition.
Discontinued Kohler part # 235006-S. $15.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. (When available or in stock.)
Idle Air/Fuel Mixture Adjustment
Screw w/Pointed End. Fits Kohler carburetors used on Kohler KT-series engine
models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series
II, KT21, and models K482, K532 and K582. Designed specifically for Kohler
carburetors with following numbers stamped on mounting flange: 48 053 06
(K582), 52 053 09, 52 053 18, 52 053 28. If there's no numbers anywhere
on the carburetor body, then it's definitely an aftermarket carburetor. Because
Carter, Kohler and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on the flange of all
their carburetors. Long tapered tip. Dimensions: .404" tip length. x
8-40 NS (special size threads) x 1.026" overall length. Being this is an
OEM part, a rubber O-ring is not required. Not available in aftermarket.
Used and in excellent condition. Discontinued Kohler part # 277210-S.
$7.45 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in
stock.)
High Speed Air/Fuel Mixture
Needle Adjustment Screws. Fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22
Carburetors. NOTE: Various high speed air/fuel adjusters are designed
for a particular carburetor. The part number of the carburetor to match the
type of adjuster are listed below. Kohler don't give their dealers much
information on this. When compared the type of adjuster to the part numbers
on each carburetor, we found that some are in fact different. The tiny holes
midway on the stem of the high speed adjuster allows a small amount of air
to be mixed with fuel through the idle circuit so the engine won't idle too
rich or too lean on fuel. And with no tiny holes present midway on the stem
allows full flow of fuel through the idle circuit, which when used in a wrong
carburetor, may cause the engine to idle too rich on fuel. So if an engine
idles well (with the present adjuster), then the carburetor has the correct
adjuster. Also, being the high speed adjusters are made of soft brass, if
the pointed tip is slightly bent, it can be easily straightened with pliers
and reused, and should not effect engine performance whatsoever. It's a valve
that regulates the amount of fuel that goes in the engine. The tip does not
need to be centered with the hole in the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube).
Gas will still get around it. And over-tightening the needle in the main
jet hole will crush the tip out of shape, making it difficult to regulate
the fuel. If the tips is damaged from being overtightened, the high speed
adjuster will need to be replaced.
High Speed Air/Fuel Mixture
Needle Adjustment Screws. Fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20 and #22
carburetors that's used on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141,
K160/K161,KV161,
L160/L161,
L181, K181. The two parts listed below
Ê are identical in every way, except
200410-S is listed for Carter carburetors having the following numbers stamped
on top of carburetor body: A-230798, A-231966, B-231231, B-231450, B-231469,
C-231738, E-231480, E-231488, E-231489, F-230350, F-230502, G-220517, G-230500,
231287, 24588, 41 053 06, 41 053 13, 41 053 14. And 200410-S is listed for
Carter carburetors having the following numbers stamped on top of carburetor
body: A-231741, A-234641, C-231738, B-231739, 41 053 01, 41 053 04, 41 053
05, 41 053 06, 41 053 18, 41 053 20. IMPORTANT - Please check numbers on
carburetor before ordering and go here to identify the correct part for any
particular carburetor:
Kohler
Carburetor Reference Manual. But if there's no numbers stamped anywhere
on the carburetor body, then it is definitely an aftermarket carburetor.
Because Carter, Kohler and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on their
carburetors. Lower hole enlarged to help the engine start quicker (with
throttle in idle position), idle smoothly, and idle down upon deceleration
without hesitation or stalling.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Kohler part #'s 200410-S
and 232635-S. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Speed Air/Fuel Mixture
Needle Adjustment Screws. Fits Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 Carburetors.
NOTE: Various high speed air/fuel adjustment screws are designed for
a particular carburetor. The part number of the carburetor to match the type
of adjuster are listed below. Kohler don't give their dealers much information
on this. When compared the type of adjuster to the part numbers on each
carburetor, we found that some are in fact different. The tiny holes midway
stem of the on the high speed adjuster allows a small amount of air to be
mixed with fuel through the idle circuit so the engine won't idle too rich
or too lean on fuel. And with no tiny holes midway allows full flow of fuel
through the idle circuit, which when used in a wrong carburetor, may cause
the engine to idle too rich on fuel. So if an engine idles well (with the
present adjuster), then the carburetor has the correct adjuster. Also, being
the high speed adjusters are made of soft brass, if the pointed tip is slightly
bent, it can be easily straightened with pliers and reused, and should not
effect engine performance whatsoever. It's a valve that regulates the amount
of fuel that goes in the engine. The tip does not need to be centered with
the hole in the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube). Gas will still get around
it. And over-tightening the needle in the main jet hole will crush the tip
out of shape, making it difficult to regulate the fuel. If the tips is damaged
from being overtightened, the high speed adjuster will need to be replaced.
Or the damaged tip can be broken off at the lower hole(s), and the [#26,
#28 or #30] carburetor can be converted for use with a
bottom main fuel adjuster.
High Speed Air/Fuel Mixture
Needle Adjustment Screw. Fits certain Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors
used on Kohler K-series and early Magnum flathead engine models K241, K301,
K330/K331, K321, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design),
KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20 and certain K532 and K582
engines. 3-3/8" overall length. Has four tiny holes midway on the stem (this
is important so the engine will idle correctly) and two holes on lower stem.
Interchangeable with discontinued Kohler high speed air/fuel adjuster part
# 52 103 01-S, which has four tiny holes midway on the stem and one hole
on lower stem. Single lower hole enlarged to help the engine start quicker
(with throttle in idle position), idle smoothly, and idle down upon deceleration
without hesitation or stalling. There's no need to do this on adjusters with
two lower holes. Designed specifically for Kohler carburetors with following
numbers stamped on mounting flange: 47 053 07, 47 053 08, 47 053 12, 47 053
13, 47 053 14, 47 053 24, 47 053 29, 47 053 35, 47 053 40, 47 053 62, 47
053 80, 48 053 06 (K582), 52 053 01, 52 053 02, 52 053 09, 52 053 10, 52
053 11, 52 053 16, 52 053 18 and 52 053 28. IMPORTANT - Please check numbers
on carburetor before ordering and go here to identify the correct part for
any particular carburetor:
Kohler
Carburetor Reference Manual. If there's no numbers anywhere on the
carburetor body, then it's definitely an aftermarket carburetor. Because
Carter, Kohler and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on the flange of all
their carburetors.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 235415-S. $19.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 235415-S. $36.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Speed Air/Fuel Mixture
Needle Adjustment Screw. Fits certain Carter or Kohler #28, #30 carburetors
used on Kohler K-series and early Magnum single cylinder engine models K321,
K341 and K361. 3-3/8" overall length. Has two tiny holes midway on the stem
(this is important so the engine will idle correctly) and one hole on lower
stem. Lower hole enlarged to help the engine start quicker (with throttle
in idle position), idle smoothly, and idle down upon deceleration without
hesitation or stalling. There's no need to do this on adjusters with two
lower holes. Designed specifically for Kohler carburetors with following
numbers stamped on mounting flange: 4174S (Carter), 45 053 08, 45 053 12,
45 053 20, 45 053 26, 45 053 68, 45 053 70, 45 053 76, 45 053 77 and 47 053
11. IMPORTANT - Please check numbers on carburetor before ordering and go
here to identify the correct part for any particular carburetor:
Kohler
Carburetor Reference Manual. If there's no numbers anywhere on the
carburetor body, then it's definitely an aftermarket carburetor. Because
Carter, Kohler and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on the flange of all
their carburetors.
-
Used and in excellent condition or New Old Stock (NOS). Replaces discontinued
Kohler part's # 45 103 01-S and 45 103 02-S. $16.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
High Speed Air/Fuel Mixture
Needle Adjustment Screw. Fits certain Carter #30 carburetors used on certain
Kohler engine models K321, and Kohler #26, 1.07" throttle bore carburetors
used on Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582. 3-3/8" overall length.
Each have no tiny holes midway on the stem (this is important so the engine
will idle correctly) and one lower hole on stem. Lower hole enlarged to help
the engine start quicker (with throttle in idle position), idle smoothly,
and idle down upon deceleration without hesitation or stalling. There's no
need to do this on adjusters with two lower holes. Designed specifically
for certain Carter and Kohler carburetors with following numbers stamped
on mounting flange: A236636 (Carter #30), 47 053 03, 47 053 09, 47 053 15,
47 053 16, 47 053 17, 47 053 20, 47 053 30, 47 053 41, 47 053 63 and 47 053
78. IMPORTANT - Please check numbers on carburetor before ordering and go
here to identify the correct part for any particular carburetor:
Kohler
Carburetor Reference Manual. But if there's no numbers stamped anywhere
on the carburetor body, then it is definitely an aftermarket carburetor.
Because Carter, Kohler and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on their
carburetors.
-
Used and in excellent condition. 15º pointed tip; listed for
Kohler engine models K241 w/specification # 46743, K482, K532, K582
w/specification #'s 36224 and 36231. Discontinued Kohler part # 47 103 01-S.
$18.60 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in
stock.)
-
Used and in excellent condition. 30º pointed tip; listed for
Carter #30 carburetor A236636 used on Kohler engine models K321 and K341
installed in Cub Cadet models 147, 149 and 169; also listed for K582 engines
w/specification #'s 36202-36394, except above
È. Discontinued Kohler part #'s 237489-S,
48 103 01-S. $23.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available
or in stock.)
Quality-Made High Speed Steel
Spiral Drill Bit. Use this to enlarge the [single] lower hole (orifice) in
the high speed needle air/fuel adjuster in Carter Model N #13, #16, #18,
#20, #22 carburetors, or Carter or Kohler #26, #28 and #30 carburetors to
create a stronger suction to draw more fuel through the tube to help the
engine start quicker (with throttle in idle position), idle smoother, and
idle down upon deceleration without stalling. No need to use this on adjuster
with two lower holes. Size: 1/32" diameter x 1-3/8" length. NOTE:
Carefully enlarge hole by hand with drill bit clamped in a
mini micro pin vise hand drill chuck. And be careful when
using any tiny drill bit because they can break easily. After enlarging hole,
clear out any metal cuttings from inside the adjuster tube with 150±
P.S.I. compressed air and an
air blow gun nozzle. A proven, ingenious and innovative
concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this.
$1.60 each, plus shipping
& handling.
Compression Pressure Spring
for High Speed Air/Fuel Adjusters (listed below
Ê) used on all Carter Model N #13, #16,
#18, #20, #22 and Carter or Kohler #26, #28 or #30 carburetors.
-
High quality aftermarket. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 200383-S. $3.78 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
 Welch Plugs for Various Small Engine Carburetors.
Concave/dish-shape. Each expands .002"-.003" larger in diameter when installed
and flattened out in counterbore hole. No sealant required. By the way
- on the Carter and Kohler #26, #28 and #30 carburetors, the smaller plug
just above the idle fuel adjusting needle does not need to be replaced for
cleaning of the idle fuel passageway, and there is no replacement for this
plug.
-
3/8" Size (.374" Diameter) Aluminum Welch Plug. Fits Carter and Kohler #26,
#28 and #30 carburetors, and Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors, and may
fit other small engine carburetors. OEM Walbro part # 88-180-8. $1.50
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
7/16" Size (.4374" Diameter) Aluminum Welch Plug. Fits Kohler Command single
cylinder engine carburetors, Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh, and may fit
other carburetors. Replaces Tecumseh part # 630748. OEM Walbro part # 88-55-8.
$1.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Carburetor Mounting
Screws/Bolts w/Slotted Head and Flat Washers. Fits Kohler engine models K141,
K160/K161, KV161,
L160/L161,
L181, K181 and M8 with Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22,
or Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetor. NOTE: Use small slotted screwdriver
to start screws in threaded holes. Size: 1/4-20 UNC x 3/4" thread length.
-
Fabricated A-1 Miller's part. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # X-140-1-S.
$2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Carburetor Mounting Screws/Bolts
w/Slotted Head and Flat Washers. Fits Kohler engine models K241, M10, K301,
M12, K330/K331, K321, M14, K341, M16 and K361 with Carter or Kohler #26,
#28, #30, or Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetor. NOTE: Use small slotted
screwdriver to start screws in threaded holes. Size: 5/16-18 UNC x 1"
thread length.
-
Fabricated A-1 Miller's part. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # X-770-1-S.
$2.75 each, plus shipping & handling.
|

A worn/loose throttle shaft is the
#1 cause of most engines wearing out and burning oil prematurely, and is
what cause the [high dollar] cylinder head to crack on a flathead engine.
If a carburetor has a worn throttle shaft, this will create a vacuum leak
and the engine will idle poorly, if at all at times. With a worn throttle
shaft, the engine will draw in dusty and dirty outside air through the throttle
shaft and carburetor body, causing increased wear to the throttle shaft and
possibly carburetor body, intake valve face/seat and score the cylinder wall,
and engine will eventually burn oil, blow blue smoke out the exhaust and
lose power. More than .010" of play is considered too much for throttle shaft
wear. The most accurate way to check for the amount of wear is with a
dial indicator. Plus, at normal governed operating speed
(3,600 RPM), the extra incoming air will cause the engine to run lean on
fuel (lean out the air/fuel mixture), which will overheat the combustion
chamber and cause the cylinder head to warp, resulting in a blown head gasket,
and the piston and rings to wear prematurely, eventually resulting in severe
engine wear, excessive oil burning and loss of power.
Furthermore, all Carter or Kohler and Walbro carburetors didn't come with
a throttle shaft bushing installed by the factory. A new bushing (and [oiled]
foam rubber seal; listed below Ê) must
be installed when the throttle shaft is worn/loose in the carburetor body,
or if the throttle shaft is severely worn thin, a new bushing along with
a new throttle shaft (and foam rubber seal) must be installed. The oil on
the foam rubber seal traps and blocks any dust and dirt from entering past
the bushing and throttle shaft. If there's a counterbore (recession in the
carburetor body) where the throttle shaft is, a short, flat bronze bushing
can be installed, and if the original throttle shaft isn't worn much, it
can be reused. But if there's no counterbore, the carburetor body will need
to be precision align-bored for installation of a bronze sleeve bushing,
and chances are, a new throttle shaft will also need to be installed. Precise
machining of the carburetor body is required for installation of the sleeve
bushing. And all Carter and Kohler #26, #28 and #30, and the older Walbro
WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors have the counterbore. Only the newer Walbro
WHG #52, #60, #64, and the aftermarket carburetors don't have the counterbore.
If the carburetor has the counterbore, the
throttle shaft will need to be removed,
the dirt and debris will need to be cleaned out from the counterbore, and
then the short, flat bushing can be installed. The [oiled] foam rubber seal
will need to be installed on the throttle shaft before installing in the
carburetor body. But if there's no counterbore, the upper hole in the carburetor
body will need to be bored out in precision alignment with the lower hole
in a milling machine, and then a bronze sleeve bushing can be installed.
Along with regular maintenance, proper repair of a worn throttle shaft
is required to help an engine last a long time.
[Return To Previous Paragraph or
Section] |
Throttle Shaft Protective Foam Rubber
Seal
(reticulated polyurethane foam). Blocks out dust and dirt
from entering between throttle shaft and carburetor body or bushing (listed
below) to prevent wear to either. Before installing, apply clean motor oil
on seal to trap dust and dirt. Fits certain Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh,
all Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22; Carter and Kohler #26, #28, #30;
Walbro WHL #36, #44, #52, #60, #64 carburetors, and various other makes and
models of carburetors. Dimensions (±): 7/32" I.D. (will stretch over
a 1/4" shaft) x 7/16" O.D. x 5/32" thick.
Learn
how to remove the Carter or Kohler OEM soft brass throttle or choke plate
retaining screws without breaking them off. OEM Walbro part #'s
156-18-8 or OEM Briggs & Stratton part #'s 691321, 691869. $2.00
each, plus shipping & handling. | [Top of Page]
[Return To Previous Paragraph or
Section]
Protective Throttle Shaft
Felt Dust/Dirt Seal. Blocks out dust and dirt from entering between throttle
shaft and carburetor body to prevent wear to throttle shaft and/or hole in
carburetor body. Before installing, apply clean motor oil on seal to trap
dust and dirt. Fits certain Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh, and all Kohler
K482, K532, K582 carburetors. Made of interconnected cloth fibers. Dimensions
(±): 7/32" I.D. (will stretch over a 1/4" shaft) x 3/8" O.D. x 1/8"
thick. Learn
how to remove the Carter or Kohler OEM soft brass throttle or choke plate
retaining screws without breaking them off. OEM Briggs & Stratton
part #'s 270167, 271853, 692279. $4.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
| [Top of Page]
[Return To Previous Paragraph or
Section]
 Throttle
Shaft Short/Flat Counterbore Bushing. Fits all Carter and Kohler
#26, #28, #30 and adjustable main jet Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors
[with a counterbore] that's used on Kohler K-series and early Magnum engine
models K241, M10, K301, M12, K330/K331, K321, M14, K341, M16, K361, KT17
(first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21,
MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Bushing and throttle shaft will last longer
with the foam seal listed above.
NOTE: All Carter and Kohler #26, #28 and
#30, and early Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors have a 1/8" depth x 7/16"
diameter counterbore to accept this short, flat bushing. If there's a [worn
or dry-rotted] rubber seal in the counterbore, this bushing will replace
it. Apply clean motor oil on throttle shaft before installing for smoother
throttle operation and less wear to shaft and/or bushing. Dimensions: 1/4"
I.D. x 7/16" O.D. x 1/8" height.
Learn how to remove the Carter or Kohler OEM soft brass
throttle or choke plate retaining screws without breaking them
off.
-
High quality aftermarket throttle shaft bushing. Precision-made in the USA
of oil absorbent, long lasting, compressed sintered bronze. Replaces Kohler
part # 25 158 02-S. $4.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler throttle shaft bushing, part # 25 158 02-S. $14.45 each,
plus shipping & handling.
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Install new throttle shaft
bushing and possibility new throttle shaft in your OEM Carter, Kohler or
Walbro carburetor and rebuild/overhaul carburetor to like-new condition.
Price depends on condition of carburetor. Please
contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in this repair service.
An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this
service.
Installation Instructions
for Throttle Shaft Bushing Above: On all Carter, Kohler and certain Walbro
carburetors, the throttle shaft is not worn 1/8" below the lever. The bushing
makes contact with this area to give the shaft a second life. All older Kohler
throttle shafts are like this. (Kohler was thinking ahead with this design.)
The original throttle shaft can be reused with this bushing if it isn't severely
worn or damaged. Before removing the throttle
plate retaining screws, and to avoid breaking off the soft OEM brass
throttle (or choke) plate retaining screws, use a
Dremel or equivalent small rotary grinder chucked with
either an 1/8" high speed steel
end mill or a
chainsaw sharpening stone to grind away the flared threaded
end of the screws, then the screws can be easily removed without breaking
off. But if you didn't read this information beforehand, and the screw's)
broke off, they can be
successfully drilled out
with the throttle (or choke) shaft clamped in a machine vise fastened to
the table of a milling machine, use a 3/16"
center drill bit (and possibly a large magnifying glass
for precision to guarantee dead center-drilling of the screw), then use a
drill press with a 5/64" drill bit to finish drilling out the broken off
screw. And then use a 3-48 UNC taper hand tap to clean
and straighten the threads in the shaft. To install the bushing in the
carburetor, clean out the counterbore, and to align the bushing perpendicular
with the counterbore, slide the bushing on a 1/4" or 6mm screw or bolt, and
insert the screw or bolt in the throttle shaft hole, and use small hammer
or bench vise to tap- or press-in the bushing, and then reinstall the shaft.
If the bushing fits somewhat loose in the counterbore, lightly tap the sides
of the counterbore with a hammer to make the counterbore slightly
oblong/egg-shape. And do not reuse the OEM soft brass throttle or choke
plate retaining screws! Because being the threads are already "stretched"
from being previously installed, they could break off while being tightened
or possibly loosen and dislodge later, which can damage the valves or piston.
If the screws loosen or become dislodged, the engine will not idle down.
NOTE: Usually the short, flat bronze bushing will snug up a worn
throttle shaft. With oil for lubrication, the bushing and shaft should last
a long time. However, the newer Walbro and the aftermarket carburetors have
no counterbore for the bushing, and sometimes in these carburetors, especially
the Walbro, the [upper] throttle shaft hole will wear oblong. Sometimes the
throttle shaft will wear, too. When the hole wears oblong, just installing
a new shaft will not fix the problem. To repair a worn, oblong hole, it must
be precision align-bored precisely aligned with the [unworn] lower hole,
and a bronze sleeve bushing would need to be installed along with a new throttle
shaft. On other makes of carburetors, if the original shaft is worn and a
new throttle shaft isn't available, then a new throttle shaft would need
to be machined/fabricated. The throttle lever can be reused and welded to
the new machined/fabricated shaft. And if necessary, a slightly oversized
throttle shaft can be installed instead of the original diameter shaft. I
can do all of these things for $50.00± each for parts and labor
each, plus return shipping & handling.
  Throttle Shaft
Sleeve Bushings. Use each bushing listed below to repair a worn throttle
shaft through-hole in carburetor body for various makes and models of small
engines to prevent a vacuum leak, which can cause poor idling and engine
damage at higher RPMs. Bushing and throttle shaft will last longer with the
foam seal listed above.
INSTALLATION: The throttle shaft through-hole
in carburetor body must be precision align-bored in a vise fastened to a
milling machine table according to the O.D. of bushing to be installed in
exact alignment with the lower or side [blind] hole so the throttle shaft
will operate freely without binding. Apply clean motor oil on throttle shaft
before installing for smoother throttle operation and less wear to shaft
and/or bushing. An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else
advertise the use of these products.
[Return To Previous Paragraph or
Section]
-
Thin-Wall Brass Sleeve Bushing. Use in Carter Model N or Walbro carburetors
with a slightly worn throttle shaft through-hole used on Kohler engine models
K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8, or Walbro carburetors for Tecumseh engines.
Dimensions: .2188" (7/32") I.D. x .250" (1/4") O.D. x .600" length.
Retrofit part; not available from Kohler or Walbro.
$3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Thicker-Wall Bronze Sleeve Bushing. Use in Carter Model N or Walbro carburetors
with a severely worn throttle shaft through-hole for Kohler engine models
K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8, or Walbro carburetors for Tecumseh engines.
Dimensions: .2188" (7/32") I.D. x .3125" (5/16") O.D. x 1/2" length.
Retrofit part; not available from Kohler or Walbro.
$3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Thin-Wall Brass Sleeve Bushing. Can be used in Kohler or Walbro carburetors
with a slightly worn throttle shaft through-hole used on Kohler engine models
K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341, M16, K361, K482, K532 or K582. Dimensions:
.251" (1/4") I.D. x .281" (9/32") O.D. x 9/16" length.
Retrofit part; not available from Kohler or Walbro.
$3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Thicker-Wall Bronze Sleeve Bushing. Can be used in Carter, Kohler or Walbro
carburetors with a severely worn throttle shaft through-hole used on Kohler
engine models K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341, M16 and K361. Dimensions:
.251" (1/4") I.D. x .3125" (5/16") O.D. x 3/4" length.
Retrofit part; not available from Kohler or Walbro.
$3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Precision align-bore throttle
shaft through-hole and install new sleeve bushing in YOUR carburetor.
$45.00 for labor and bushing + price of new throttle shaft with new
screws/lock washers (if needed), plus return shipping & handling. An
innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this kind
of repair service.
Throttle and Choke Plate Replacement Retaining
Screws Listed Below | To avoid breaking
off the OEM soft brass throttle or choke plate retaining screws, use a
Dremel or equivalent small rotary grinder chucked with
either a
chainsaw sharpening stone or an 1/8" high speed steel or
carbide
end mill to grind away the flared end of the screw threads
until flush with the shaft, then the screws can be easily removed without
breaking off. But if the screw's) do break off, they can be
successfully drilled out
and the shaft can be rethreaded with the appropriate size tap for installation
of new screws. And definitely do not reuse the
OEM soft brass throttle or choke plate retaining
screws! They can break off while being tightened, or
possibly loosen and dislodge later, which can bend a valve or damage the
piston and cylinder head. TIP: When installing a small Phillips- or
slotted-head screw to keep it from falling out of the screwdriver tip in
a hard to reach place, for ordinary steel screws, temporarily magnetize the
screwdriver by rubbing a magnet several times along the length of the shank,
or for stainless steel screws, apply a dab of automotive grease in the head
of the screw. [Return To Previous
Paragraph or Section]
3-48 UNC x 3/16" thread length
throttle and choke plate retaining screws w/split lock washers (liquid
threadlocker not required). Fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20 or #22
carburetors installed on Kohler K-series engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161,
KV161,
L160/L161,
L181, K181, M8, including various other makes and models of small
engine carburetors. Also fits high performance throttle shaft in Carter and
Kohler #26, #28 and #30 carburetors that's been machined thin to increase
airflow for competition pulling. Specifications: Phillips head; .095" outside
thread diameter; grade 18-8 stainless steel; tensile strength: 120,000 P.S.I.
Irrelevant Kohler part number. $1.00 per pair, plus shipping &
handling.
3-48 UNC x 1/4" thread length
throttle and choke plate retaining screws w/split lock washers (liquid
threadlocker not required). Fits Carter and Kohler #26, #28 and #30 carburetors
installed on Kohler K-series engine models K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341,
K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series
II, KT21, K452, K532, K582, including various other makes and models of small
engine carburetors. Specifications: Phillips head; .095" outside thread diameter;
grade 18-8 stainless steel; tensile strength: 120,000 P.S.I. Replaces
discontinued Kohler (brass screw) part # 234209-S. $1.00 per pair,
plus shipping & handling.
4-40 UNC x 1/4" thread length
throttle and choke plate retaining screws w/split lock washers (liquid
threadlocker not required). Fits Walbro WHL #52, #60 or #64 carburetors installed
on Kohler Magnum engine models M8, M10, M12, M14, M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20,
MV20, including various other makes and models of small engine carburetors,
and aftermarket Kohler-replicated carburetors. Can be used as an oversize
replacement when 3-48 threads strip out. Use 4-40 hand tap (listed below)
when this happens.
-
High quality aftermarket. Specifications: Phillips head; .108" outside thread
diameter; grade 18-8 stainless steel; tensile strength: 120,000 P.S.I.. Replaces
Kohler part # 25 086 27-S. $1.00 per pair, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 25 086 27-S. $3.55 each, plus shipping & handling.
Quality-Made High Speed Steel Taper Hand Taps.
Taper taps allow for the tip to be inserted deeper in the hole for
self-aligning, easier cutting of threads and less chance of breaking off
tap in the hole.
Click here to learn how to cut threads, the professional
way. [Return to Previous Section,
Paragraph or Website]
-
3-48 UNC size. Use to repair
damaged OEM threads in Carter or Kohler throttle and choke shafts.
$8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
4-40 UNC size. Use to repair threads in newer OEM Walbro throttle and
choke shafts, or for cutting oversize threads in Carter or Kohler throttle
and choke shafts when 3-48 threads strip out. $8.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
|
7/32" Diameter
Throttle Shaft w/Integrated Lever and 3-48 UNC screws and lock washers. Fits
Carter Model N #13, #16 or #18 carburetors and small Walbro carburetor used
on Kohler K-series engine models K90/K91, and various other makes and models
of small engines. NOTE: Apply clean motor oil on shaft before installing
for smooth operation and less wear to shaft, bushing and/or carburetor body.
Click here to learn how to remove the Carter
or Kohler OEM soft brass throttle or choke plate retaining screws without
breaking them off. Click
here to learn how to install the throttle plate correctly.
-
OEM Kohler part # 46 144 04-S. $29.55 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
7/32" I.D. x 1/4" O.D. brass sleeve bushing to repair worn throttle shaft
hole in carburetor body. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
7/32" Diameter
Throttle Shaft w/Integrated Lever and 3-48 UNC screws and lock washers. Fits
Carter Model N #20 or #22 carburetors used on Kohler K-series engine models
K141, K160/K161, KV161,
L160/L161,
L181 and K181, and various other makes and models of small engines.
Also fits Walbro WHL #36 or #44 carburetors used on Magnum engine model M8.
NOTE: Apply clean motor oil on shaft before installing for smooth operation
and less wear to shaft, bushing and/or carburetor body.
Click here to learn how to remove the Carter
or Kohler OEM soft brass throttle or choke plate retaining screws without
breaking them off. Click
here to learn how to install the throttle plate correctly.
-
OEM Kohler part # 41 144 18-S. $18.25 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
7/32" I.D. x 1/4" O.D. brass sleeve bushing to repair worn throttle shaft
hole in carburetor body. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
7/32" Diameter
Anodized Steel Choke Shaft w/Integrated Lever and 3-48 UNC screws and lock
washers. Fits all Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20 or #22 carburetor used
on Kohler K-series engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161,
L160/L161,
L181 and K181, and various other makes and models of small engines.
Also fits Walbro WHL #36 or #44 carburetors used on Magnum engine model M8.
NOTE: Apply clean motor oil on shaft before installing for smooth operation
and less wear to shaft and/or carburetor body.
Click here to learn how to remove the
Carter or Kohler OEM soft brass throttle or choke plate retaining screws
without breaking them off.
Click here to learn how to install
the throttle plate correctly.
-
High Quality Aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 41 090 20-S.
$20.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
IMPORTANT: Click here to
learn how to remove the Carter or Kohler OEM soft brass throttle or choke
plate retaining screws without breaking them off.
And click here to learn how to install
the throttle plate correctly.
 1/4" Diameter Anodized Steel Throttle Shaft with 3/16" hole
in lever, 11/16" throttle plate screw hole spacing and small hole on
lever for throttle return or throttle stabilizer spring. Fits OEM Carter
or Kohler #26, #28 and #30, or Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors used
on Kohler engine models K241, M10, K301, M12, K330/K331, K321, M14, K341,
M16 and K361. Includes screws and lock washers for throttle plate. Does not
include throttle plate as shown in photo (listed separately below). NOTE:
When replacing a worn throttle shaft in the Walbro #52 (1.07") carburetor
with this particular throttle shaft, the 1.07" aftermarket throttle plate
(with 11/16" screw hole spacing) listed below must also be used. Or when
replacing a worn throttle shaft in the Walbro #60 or #64 (1.2") carburetor
with this particular throttle shaft, the holes in the OEM Walbro throttle
plate will need to be made oblong to match the (11/16") screw hole spacing
in this shaft. High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part #'s 47
144 36-S and discontinued 47 144 35-S. $12.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
1/4" Diameter Anodized Steel
Throttle Shaft with integrated 1/4" ball on lever and 11/16" throttle
plate screw hole spacing. Fits OEM Kohler #26, #28 and #30, or Walbro WHG
#52, #60 and #64 carburetors used on Kohler engine models K241, M10, K301,
M12, K330/K331, K321, M14, K341, M16 and K361. Replaces OEM Kohler AQS "Quiet
Line" #26, #28 and #30 carburetor throttle shafts. Includes screws and lock
washers for throttle plate. Does not include throttle plate as shown in photo
(listed separately below). NOTE: When replacing a worn throttle shaft
in the Walbro #52 (1.07") carburetor with this particular throttle shaft,
the 1.07" aftermarket throttle plate (with 11/16" screw hole spacing) listed
below must also be used. Or when replacing a worn throttle shaft in the Walbro
#60 or #64 (1.2") carburetor with this particular throttle shaft, the holes
in the OEM Walbro throttle plate can be made oblong to match the (11/16")
screw hole spacing in this shaft. High quality aftermarket. Replaces
Kohler part #'s 47 144 36-S and discontinued 47 144 35-S. $12.00 each,
plus shipping & handling.
Throttle Shaft Conversion
Kits. Convert OEM Carter #26, #28 or #30 carburetors with a broken or
cracked old-style two-piece cast aluminum throttle shaft clamp/lever and
idle speed screw w/spring to the new style one-piece Kohler-type throttle
shaft with integrated lever and idle speed adjustment screw w/compression
spring in carburetor body. The OEM Carter carburetors were used on the early
Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321 and K330/K331. Reuse the OEM Carter
throttle plate with either kit below.
-
Throttle Shaft Conversion Kit #1. Includes: High quality aftermarket new
style anodized steel throttle shaft with 3/16" hole in lever (no
integrated ball), two throttle plate retaining screws, idle speed screw and
compression spring. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Throttle Shaft Conversion Kit #2. Includes: High quality aftermarket new
style anodized steel throttle shaft with integrated 1/4" ball on lever,
two throttle plate retaining screws, idle speed screw and compression spring.
$15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
How to Perform the Throttle Shaft Conversion:
-
Remove the old-style Carter
throttle shaft. Click here to learn how
to remove the Carter or Kohler OEM soft brass throttle or choke plate retaining
screws without breaking them off.
-
Cut off or grind down the throttle stop pin for the old-style throttle lever
flush with the carburetor body. IMPORTANT: Do attempt to break off pin
as this could also break off part of the cast aluminum carburetor body, which
must be used as a throttle stop for the new style throttle lever in the wide
open position.
-
Use a
dial- or digital-caliper to measure/locate and scribe on
the carburetor body where to drill a 9/64" hole through the carburetor body
between the throttle shaft and high speed air/fuel adjuster in alignment
with the new style throttle lever tang for installation of the idle speed
adjustment screw. See photo to the right ->.
-
Use a 8-32 UNC hand tap to cut new threads through the 9/64" drilled hole.
-
Install the supplied idle speed adjustment screw w/compression spring in
the threaded hole.
-
Install the new style throttle shaft and reinstall the original throttle
plate. IMPORTANT:
Click
here to learn how the throttle plate is reinstalled correctly.
-
NOTE: If the hole for the throttle shaft in the carburetor body is worn and
the new throttle shaft is loose or "wobbly" in the carburetor body, then
a new flat bronze bushing will need to
be installed in the counterbore.
|
IMPORTANT: Click here to
learn how to remove the Carter or Kohler OEM soft brass throttle or choke
plate retaining screws without breaking them off.
And click here to learn how to reinstall
the throttle plate correctly.
Throttle Plate. Fits Carter Model
N #13 and #16 carburetors with a .810" diameter throttle bore. Used on Kohler
engine models K90/K91 and certain low RPM K141. Hard to find part. Used and
in excellent condition. Obsolete OEM Carter or Kohler part number.
-
$20.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in
stock.)
Throttle Plate. Fits Carter Model
N #18, #20 and #22 carburetors with a .823" diameter throttle bore. Used
on Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161,
KV161,
L160/L161,
L181, K181 and M8. Hard to find part. Used and in excellent
condition. Obsolete OEM Carter or Kohler part number.
-
$20.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in
stock.)
Throttle Plate. Fits Carter,
Kohler and aftermarket #26 carburetors with 1.07" diameter throttle bore.
Used on Kohler engine models K241, K301, K330/K331, KT17 (first design),
KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, K482 and K532.
To be used with OEM Carter, Kohler or aftermarket throttle shafts listed
above with 11/16" screw hole spacing. High quality aftermarket. Replaces
discontinued Kohler part # 236668-S.
-
$6.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in
stock.)
Throttle Plate. Fits early Carter
#28 and all aftermarket carburetors with 1.17" diameter throttle bore. Used
on early Kohler engine model K321 with the 1-1/8" exhaust valve and small
intake port. Designed to be used with OEM Carter, Kohler or aftermarket throttle
shafts listed above with 11/16" screw hole spacing. Anodized steel. High
quality aftermarket. Obsolete Carter or Kohler part number.
-
$6.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in
stock.)
Throttle Plate. Fits Carter
and Kohler #30 carburetors with 1.2" diameter throttle bore. Used on Kohler
engine models K321 (later model with the 1-3/8" exhaust valve and large intake
port), K341 and K582. Designed to be used with OEM Carter, Kohler or aftermarket
throttle shafts listed above with 11/16" screw hole spacing. Obsolete Carter
or Kohler part number.
-
$10.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in
stock.)
|
IMPORTANT:
Click here to
learn how to remove the Carter or Kohler OEM soft brass throttle or choke
plate retaining screws without breaking them off.
Choke
Plate. Fits Carter Model N #13 and #16 carburetors with the .810" throttle
bore. Used on Kohler engine models K90/K91. Hard to find part. Used and in
excellent condition. Obsolete OEM Carter or Kohler part number.
-
$20.00 each, plus shipping & handing. (When available or in
stock.)
Choke
Plate. Fits Carter Model N #18, #20 and #22 carburetors with the .823"" throttle
bore. Used on Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161,
KV161,
L160/L161,
L181, K181 and M8. Somewhat hard to find part. Used and in excellent
condition. Obsolete OEM Carter or Kohler part number.
-
$20.00 each, plus shipping & handing. (When available or in
stock.)
Choke
Plates. Fits Carter and Kohler #26 carburetors with the 1.07" throttle bore.
Used on Kohler engine models K241, K301, K330/K331, KT17 (first design),
KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18,
M20 and MV20. Used and in excellent condition. Obsolete OEM Carter or Kohler
part number.
-
$10.00 each, plus shipping & handing. (When available or in
stock.)
Choke
Plate. Fits Carter and Kohler #28 carburetors with the 1.17" throttle bore.
Used on early Kohler engine model K321 with the 1-1/8" exhaust valve and
small intake port. Hard to find part. Used and in excellent condition. Obsolete
OEM Carter or Kohler part number.
-
$15.00 each, plus shipping & handing. (When available or in
stock.)
Choke
Plate. Fits Carter and Kohler #30 carburetors with 1.2" and 1.25" throttle
bore. Used on Kohler K-series engine models K321 (later models with the 1-3/8"
exhaust valve and large intake port), K341, K361, K482, K532 and K582. Used
and in excellent condition. Obsolete OEM Carter or Kohler part number.
-
$10.00 each, plus shipping & handing. (When available or in
stock.)
|
IMPORTANT:
Click here to
learn how to remove the Carter or Kohler OEM soft brass throttle or choke
plate retaining screws without breaking them off.
Choke Shafts w/Integrated Short
Levers. Fits Carter or Kohler #26, #28 or #30 carburetors used on various
Kohler K-series engine models K241, K301, K321, K341 with the
round air cleaner/filter
assembly. Also fits certain Walbro WHL #52, #60 or #64 carburetors used
on various Magnum engine models M10, M12, M14 and M16. NOTE - The Walbro
choke plate retaining screw holes will need to be elongated or made oblong
to line up with the screw holes in the aftermarket choke shaft. And
apply clean motor oil on shaft before installing for smooth operation and
less wear to shaft and/or carburetor body.
-
High Quality Aftermarket. Made of anodized steel. Includes retaining screws
w/lock washers for choke plate. Replaces Kohler part # 47 090 34-S.
$20.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 47 090 34-S. $43.25 each, plus shipping & handling.
Choke Shafts w/Integrated Long
Lever. Fits Kohler #26 or #30 carburetors used on all Kohler AQS "Quiet Line"
engine models K241, K301, K321, K341, K361 with the
oblong/egg-shape air cleaner/filter
assembly. Also fits certain Walbro WHL #52, #60 or #64 carburetors used
on various Magnum engine models M10, M12, M14 and M16. NOTE - The Walbro
choke plate retaining screw holes will need to be elongated or made oblong
to line up with the screw holes in the aftermarket choke shaft. And
apply clean motor oil on shaft before installing for smooth operation and
less wear to shaft and/or carburetor body.
-
High Quality Aftermarket. Made of anodized steel. Includes retaining screws
w/lock washers for choke plate. Replaces Kohler part # 47 090 38-S.
$25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 47 090 38-S. $43.25 each, plus shipping & handling.
Choke Shafts w/Lever. Fits Kohler
engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19
Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Each includes retaining screws
w/lock washers for choke plate. NOTE - The Walbro choke plate retaining
screw holes will need to be elongated or made oblong to line up with the
screw holes in the aftermarket choke shaft. And apply clean motor
oil on shaft before installing for smooth operation and less wear to shaft
and/or carburetor body.
-
Choke Shaft w/Integrated Downward Swing Lever. OEM Kohler part # 52 090 12-S.
$24.80 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Choke Shaft w/Integrated Upward Swing Lever. OEM Kohler part # 52 090 13-S.
$24.80 each, plus shipping & handling.
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair
Service - Reverse the
lever on YOUR choke shaft for downward or upward swing to match the position
of the choke lever on your original carburetor or choke cable on your garden
tractor. (This is a distinctive A-1 Miller's service that others do not
offer.)
$15.00
labor each, plus return shipping & handling.
Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises
to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional
and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment
options. |
NOTE: The choke shaft detent ball and spring are required
only for hand-operation of the choke plate to keep it in the open position
on stand-alone engines without a remote cable control, such as competition
garden pulling tractor, garden tiller, generator/welder, air compressor,
water pump, etc. Replace if lost so the choke will stay open while the engine
is running. But if the choke lever/plate is operated remotely by a cable,
such as on a lawn & garden tractor, then these parts aren't needed and
will serve no purpose whatsoever.
1/8" Diameter Choke Shaft Friction
(Detent) Ball. Fits Carter or Kohler #13, #16, #18, #20, #22, #26, #28, #30
and Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetors.
-
OEM Walbro part # 89-13-8. .35¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Kohler part # 25 194 02-S. (Same as above
È, made by Walbro.) $1.82 each,
plus shipping & handling.
1/8" Diameter x 5/16" Length
Choke Shaft Friction (Detent) Compression Spring. Fits Walbro WHL #36, #44
carburetors.
-
OEM Walbro part # 98-162-7. .60¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Kohler part # 25 089 06-S. (Same as above
È, made by Walbro.) $1.82 each,
plus shipping & handling.
1/8" Diameter x 1/2" Length
Choke Shaft Friction (Detent) Compression Spring. Fits Carter and Kohler
#26, #28 and #30 carburetors.
-
Used and in excellent condition. Discontinued from Kohler many years ago.
No part number available. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
(When available or in stock.)
5/32" Diameter Choke Shaft Friction
(Detent) Ball. Fits Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors.
-
OEM Walbro part # 89-29-8. .35¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Kohler part # 25 194 01-S. (Same as above
È, made by Walbro.) $8.02 each,
plus shipping & handling.
5/32" Diameter x 1/2" Length
Choke Shaft Friction (Detent) Compression Spring. Fits Walbro WHG #52, #60,
#64 carburetors.
-
OEM Walbro part # 98-198-7. .60¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Kohler part # 25 089 03-S. (Same as above
È, made by Walbro.) $8.02 each,
plus shipping & handling.
|
  Small
Engine Remote Fuel Primer Bulb System Kits. Safe to use and works
flawlessly! Can be used on most general lawn and garden tractors, competition
garden pulling tractors, go-karts, small motorized vehicles, or virtually
any small engine lawn and garden equipment or snow removal equipment with
a choke plate in the carburetor. Primer bulb can be installed on pedestal,
dashboard, instrument panel, engine control panel, flywheel shroud, etc.
Requires 1/4" mounting hole for primer bulb assembly. Works with Carter or
Kohler (OEM and aftermarket), Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh, Mikuni, Zenith,
or virtually any carburetor with a float. Works with pump gas, race gas,
E-85 or methanol fuels. The choice of professional garden tractor pullers
everywhere! With the fuel bowl atmospheric vent opening plugged (air passageway
from inside the float bowl to outside of carburetor), then with one or two
pushes of the primer bulb with your finger, air pressure created within the
float bowl forces fuel up through the main jet and out the nozzle, creating
a slight flooding condition inside the carburetor throttle bore, allowing
a cold engine to start quick. With this setup installed, the choke plate
and shaft is not needed and can be removed. No more binding of a cable-operated
choke and/or bent choke plate, or messy and unsafe "hand choking" of the
carburetor. Being the atmospheric vent opening will be plugged, the
fuel baffle splash shield
in the Carter or Kohler carburetor is not needed with this setup and will
serve no purpose whatsoever. Kit includes: New primer bulb assembly with
integrated 1/8" barbed hose fitting and serrated mounting nut, 1/8" I.D.
x 3/16" O.D. x 2' length clear vinyl hose, loop-type clamp and 1/8" diameter
x 1" length brass tube. Click
or tap here for installation instructions. NOTE: If an engine is hard
to start, even with the choke plate fully closed and tuned correctly, then
it may need the valve clearances reset and/or professional valve job performed.
The reason some older engines is hard to start is because the valve faces,
especially the intake valve, wears slightly away against the valve seat,
and this causes the clearance between the valve stem and lifter to be lessened,
which will prevent the valve(s) from fully closing to trap adequate compression
in the combustion chamber [so the engine can start easier]. This remote fuel
primer system will not help an engine start easier if it needs a valve job.
A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody
else advertise the universal kit for use on various small engine equipment,
lawn and garden tractors, small motorized vehicles or competition pulling
tractors.
[Return To Previous Paragraph or
Section]
-
Fuel Primer Bulb Only. Includes serrated mounting nut. $7.00 each,
plus shipping.
-
High Quality Complete Universal Fuel Primer System Kit. Replaces OEM Kohler
part # 14 755 36-S. $11.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
XT Fuel Primer Kit. OEM Kohler part # 14 755 36-S. $18.05 each, plus
shipping.
|
Vented Metal Fuel/Gas Caps. Replace
deteriorated, damaged or missing gas cap for safety. Each gas cap below fits
OEM gas tank on I-built Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86,
100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128,
129, 147, 149, 169, including 800, 1000, 1200, 1250, 1450 and 1650 with serial
number 560209 and lower. Also fits larger Briggs & Stratton, Clinton,
Tecumseh, Lauson, Wisconsin and various other makes and models of small engine
gas tanks with a 1-3/4" inlet. Unpainted; apply coat of paint to prevent
rusting.
-
1-3/4" metal vented ordinary
fuel/gas caps w/alcohol-resistant paper-like anti-splash sealing gasket.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 236655-S and Cub Cadet part
# KH-236655. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 236655-S. $18.25 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Cub Cadet part # KH-236655. Replaces Kohler part # 236655-S.
$24.05 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
1-3/4" metal vented safety fuel/gas
cap w/alcohol-resistant neoprene rubber sealing gasket, fuel baffle/splash
shield and foam rubber
(reticulated polyurethane foam) to absorb and prevent fuel
from spewing out of vent hole due to engine vibration. Ideal for an open
RPM competition pulling tractor.
-
OEM Briggs & Stratton part #'s 69221, 297866, 297866S, 392305, 393156,
395005. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Alcohol-resistant neoprene rubber
O-ring for inside of 1-3/4" fuel/gas caps. Provides a better seal against
the rim of a slightly bent or damaged filler neck on gas tank to lessen loss
of fuel when tank is full. For a better seal, pry out and install under
paper-like gasket material in gas cap. Fits snug in gas cap. $1.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
 FYI - If a gas cap is missing the sealing gasket/splash
shield, this part can be made from durable
paper-like gasket material by cutting out a piece so the
outside diameter fits snug inside the cap. Be sure to make a small hole (1/32")
off-center in the gasket for the atmospheric vent to draw air in the tank
as fuel is depleted. And if fuel spews out of the vent hole in the cap (with
the gasket/splash shield installed) with a full tank of gas due to normal
engine vibration, to prevent a possible fire, place a small piece of porous
foam rubber
(reticulated polyurethane foam) between the gasket/splash
shield and vent hole in the cap. The foam will absorb the fuel and block
it from being forced out the vent hole, and it'll allow incoming outside
air to pass through as fuel is depleted in the tank. (A proven, ingenious
and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else online mentions
doing this.)
Vented Gas Cap/Fuel Level Gauge
w/Ribbing. Replace deteriorated, damaged or missing gas cap for safety. Fits
I-built Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104,
105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149,
169, 1100, including Cub Cadet AQS "Quiet Line" garden tractor models 800,
1000, 1200, 1250, 1450 and 1650 with serial number 560209 and lower. Replaces
gas caps (without gauge) listed above. Fits metal and plastic gas tanks with
1-3/4" threaded inlet and 5" depth. 5-1/2" overall length. Discontinued Cub
Cadet part # IH-61635-C3. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
(Brand new; When available or in stock.)
Vented Gas Caps/Fuel Level
Gauge w/Projected Grips. Replace deteriorated, damaged or missing gas cap
for safety. Fits I-built Cub Cadet AQS "Quiet Line" garden tractor models
800, 1000, 1200, 1250, 1450 and 1650 with serial number 560210 and higher.
Fits plastic gas tank with 2" threaded inlet and 5" depth. 5-1/2" overall
length.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-109037-C2.
$24.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-109037-C2. $49.40 each, plus shipping &
handling.
Vented Gas Caps/Fuel Level Gauge
w/Projected Grips. Replace deteriorated, damaged or missing gas cap for safety.
Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682,
782, 784, 982, 984, 986, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1282, 1604, 1606, 1710, 1711,
1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1872, 1912, 1914 and 2072. Fits plastic gas
tank with 2" threaded inlet and 10" depth. 10-5/8" overall length.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Cub Cadet part # 951-0226A. $37.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Cub Cadet part # 951-0226A. $54.10 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Small Size Plastic
Inline Fuel Filters w/fine mesh metal screen. Replace clogged, deteriorated
or damaged filter to prevent fuel flow problems. Each filter installs either
direction. Dimensions of each filter: 1/4" barbed fuel hose fittings x 1-3/8"
maximum diameter x 1-3/4" overall length. Each replaces Kohler part # 25
050 07-S1.
-
Red; 150
micron.
Each listed below suitable with a gravity feed fuel system.
-
High quality aftermarket. A-1 Miller's part # 21-6000. Replaces Briggs &
Stratton part # 298090S, Kohler part # 24 050 03-S and Scag part # 48057-02.
$3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 24 050 03-S. $60.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Translucent or White; 75
micron.
Each listed below filters out smaller objects than filter above. Suitable
with a pulse-type/vacuum-operated fuel pump, mechanical fuel pump, 12 volt
electric fuel pump, or electronic fuel
injection. Install before fuel pump to lessen dirt/debris wear to poppet
or reed valves in pump.
-
High quality aftermarket. A-1 Miller's part # 21-1349. Replaces Briggs &
Stratton part # 394358S, Kohler part # 25 050 42-S and Toro part # 55-6360.
$3.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 25 050 42-S. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Medium Size Plastic
Inline Fuel Filter w/pleated paper filtering material. Replace clogged and/or
deteriorated filter to prevent fuel flow problems. Suitable for use with
gravity feed fuel system, pulse-type/vacuum-operated fuel pump, mechanical
fuel pump or a 12 volt electric fuel pump.
Install before fuel pump to lessen dirt/debris wear to poppet or reed valves
within pump. Dimensions: 1/4" and 5/16" barbed fittings x 1-1/2" maximum
diameter x 4-3/8" overall length.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 25 050 22-S1, 41 050 03-S.
$3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 25 050 22-S1, 41 050 03-S. $7.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
|
  Fuel Hose Clamps.
Fits 1/4" I.D. x 1/2" O.D. reinforced fuel hose (to the right). Necessary
for safety when using a fuel pump in a pressurized fuel line and to prevent
a vacuum leak at the suction end.
-
Spring-Loaded Clamp. High quality aftermarket. .50¢ each, plus
shipping & handling.
-
Spring-Loaded Clamp. OEM Kohler part # 25 237 37-S. $1.30 each, plus
shipping & handling.
-
Stainless Steel Worm Gear Clamp. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
1/4" I.D. x
1/2" O.D. Black
Neoprene
Rubber Fuel Hose. Reinforced with braided rayon weaving. Necessary for safety
when using a fuel pump in a pressurized fuel line. Suitable for 100% gasoline,
gas w/10% alcohol, E85 or methanol fuels. Maximum burst pressure: 15 P.S.I.
-
High quality aftermarket. .15¢ per inch, plus shipping &
handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 25 111 81-S. (1/4" I.D. x 39" length.) $12.00 each,
plus shipping & handling.
|
Hard Rubber Sleeve
for metal fuel line and compression fittings. Fits certain early Kohler engine
models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, M8, K301, K321, K341, K482, K532,
K582 and K660. Replace deteriorated, cracked and dry-rotted rubber sleeve
to prevent dangerous and hazardous fuel leak. Dimensions: 7/32" I.D. x .255"
O.D. (Other parts shown in drawing to the right -> have been discontinued
from Kohler.)
-
OEM Kohler part # 220547-S. $5.70 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Fuel Hose
Conversion/Upgrade Kit. Do away with the old-fashioned sediment bowl/fuel
filter and metal fuel line. This kit replaces the fuel sediment bowl assembly,
U-shape metal fuel line and fuel fittings with the hard rubber compression
sleeves (above). Suitable for Kohler and virtually any small engine with
gravity fuel feed and carburetor positioned lower than any part of the gas
tank. This conversion/upgrade kit includes 1/4" I.D. x 12" length reinforced
black fuel hose, small inline fuel filter, one new straight 1/4" barbed fuel
hose fitting x 1/8" NPT male threads fitting, one new 90º 1/8" NPT male
threads x 1/4" barbed fuel hose fitting, and four spring-type fuel hose clamps.
The 90º fitting goes in the carburetor with the barbed end facing downward,
the straight fitting fastens in the gas tank, the fuel filter goes just below
the gas tank close to the straight fitting, and the rest of the fuel hose
routes underneath the carburetor and connects to the 90º fitting. Use
plumber's thread sealing tape to guarantee a leak-proof
seal. An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise
this. $12.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling. |
Nylon Inline
Fuel Shut-Off Valve w/alcohol-resistant neoprene seal and 1/4" barbed fuel
hose fittings. alcohol-resistant. No filter. Lever rotates 90º OFF/ON
position. Use for a leaky carburetor or
long term storage
of equipment. This part is required by certain garden tractor pulling
associations/clubs for safety. A-1 Miller's part # 24-1036. $3.00
each, plus shipping & handling. |
Heavy Duty, All
Metal Inline Fuel Shut-Off Valve with 1/4" barbed fuel hose fittings.
Alcohol-resistant. No filter. Lever rotates 90º OFF/ON position. Use
for a leaky carburetor or
long term storage
of equipment. This part is required by certain garden tractor pulling
associations/clubs for safety. A-1 Miller's part # 24-1166. $16.00
each, plus shipping & handling. |
Heavy Duty, 90º
1/8" NPT Threads gas tank-Mounted Shut-Off Valve w/Fine Mesh Brass Filter
Screen and 1/4" Barbed Fuel Hose Fitting. Threads into bottom of metal gas
tank. To be used with metal gas tanks on various Kohler engine models K90/K91,
K141, K160/K161,
L160/L161, L181, K181, K241, K301, K341,
M8, M14, M20, CH15, CH22, CH23, CH680 and ECH730. Use for a leaky carburetor
or long term storage of
equipment. This part is required by certain pulling associations/clubs
for safety. Replaces: AMF 42879; Bolens 1703896, 1718029; Briggs & Stratton
396244, 399517, 698182; Gravely 18563; John Deere AM31850, PT8655; Kohler
220764-S; Lawn Boy 677052; Noma 42879; Scag 48056; Snapper 2-4507, 3-4212,
24507, 34212, 7024507, 7034212; Tecumseh 27689, 27803, 28571, 29683, 430137,
430209; Toro 304-71.
-
High quality aftermarket. Has alcohol-resistant
neoprene
rubber O-ring seal. A-1 Miller's part # 24-1037. $6.50 each, plus
shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 220764-S. $27.77 each, plus shipping & handling.
Alcohol-resistant
neoprene
rubber O-ring seal for shut-off valve listed above
È. Replace deteriorated, cracked and
dry-rotted O-ring or leather packing which can cause leaking fuel. Dimensions:
3/16" I.D. x 5/16" O.D.
-
.25¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Alcohol-Resistant
Neoprene
Rubber Gas Tank Fuel Fitting Bushings (Grommets). Replace deteriorated, cracked,
dry-rotted, hardened bushing/grommet, which can cause dangerous and hazardous
fuel leak. Along with either fuel fitting listed further below, this part
can be used to repair (replace) the integrated fuel fitting on a plastic
gas tank. Use oil or grease for easy installation into hole in bottom of
plastic gas tank. Fuel fittings and fuel shut-off valves that plugs into
these parts listed below. In addition to these fittings, for competition
pulling only, this part can also be used as a fuel return system on top of
gas tank with a high pressure fuel pump when burning methanol to prevent
carburetor flooding. Each below have a 23/64" I.D. hole for a 3/8" fuel fitting.
-
Fits 33/64" (1/2") hole in
bottom of gas tank. (Most common size.) Designed for IH Cub Cadet
AQS "Quiet Line" garden tractors and MTD-built Cub Cadet garden tractors.
Replaces AMF 42690; Ariens 07509300, 07511400; Bolens 1738433; Briggs Power
Products 78299GS; Exmark 1-513645; Ferris 22151; Lawn-Boy 104047, 708331,
46-6560; GW-B1738433, 581615; MTD (Cub Cadet) 735-0149, 751-3008, 935-0149;
Murray 42690; Noma 44847; Scag 48309; Simplicity 1654930; Snapper 12337,
74158, 7012337, 7074158; Tecumseh 33679; Toro 46-6560, 1-513645, E513645;
Wheel Horse/Toro 104047, 104047P.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces MTD (Cub Cadet) part #'s 735-0149, 751-3008,
935-0149. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM MTD (Cub Cadet) part #'s 735-0149, 751-3008, 935-0149. $8.35 each,
plus shipping & handling.
-
Fits 35/64" (9/16") hole
in bottom of gas tank. Designed for fuel tank on Kohler Magnum engines.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 25 313 01-S. $7.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 25 313 01-S. $4.55 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
90º Metal
Plug-In gas tank Fitting w/o Filter Screen. Fits Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" models
and Kohler Magnum engines. Use with inline fuel filter. 1/2" barbed fitting
fastens in neoprene rubber bushing/grommet (above
È) in bottom of plastic gas tank. Along
with the grommet above, this part can be used to repair (replace) the fuel
fitting on a plastic gas tank. In addition to the grommet listed above, for
competition pulling only, this part can also be used as a fuel return system
on top of gas tank with a high pressure fuel pump when burning methanol to
prevent carburetor flooding. Use oil or grease for easy installation. 1/4"
barbed fuel hose fitting. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-109042-C2 (except
w/o shut-off valve); Wheel Horse 04048 (except w/o shut-off valve and filter
screen).
-
Our part # 751-3054. $3.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
90º Metal
Plug-In gas tank Shut-Off Valve w/o Filter Screen. Fits Cub Cadet AQS "Quiet
Line" models and Kohler Magnum engines. Use with inline fuel filter. 1/2"
barbed fitting fastens in neoprene rubber bushing (above
È) in bottom of plastic gas tank. Along
with the grommet above, this part can be used to repair (replace) the fuel
fitting on a plastic gas tank. Use oil or grease for easy installation. 1/4"
barbed fuel hose fitting. Use for a leaky carburetor or
long term storage of
equipment. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-109042-C2 and Kohler part # 25
462 01-S (except w/o filter screen); Wheel Horse 104048 (except w/o filter
screen).
-
Our part # 120-253. $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Alcohol resistant
neoprene
rubber O-ring seal for shut-off valve above
È. Replace deteriorated, cracked and
dry-rotted O-ring which cause leaking fuel. Dimensions: 3/16" I.D. x 5/16"
O.D.
-
.25¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
|
90º Metal
Plug-In gas tank Shut-Off Valve w/Fine Mesh Filter Screen. Fits Briggs &
Stratton, Cub Cadet AQS "Quiet Line" models and Kohler Magnum engines. 1/2"
barbed fitting fastens in neoprene rubber bushing (above
È) in bottom of plastic gas tank. Along
with the grommet above, this part can be used to repair (replace) the fuel
fitting on a plastic gas tank. Use oil or grease for easy installation. 1/4"
barbed fuel hose fitting. Use for a leaky carburetor or
long term storage of
equipment. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-109042-C2; Wheel Horse 104048
(except w/filter screen).
-
High quality aftermarket. A-1 Miller's part # 24-1132. $6.00 each,
plus shipping & handling.
-
Kohler part # 25 462 01-S. $20.15 each, plus shipping & handling.
Alcohol-resistant
neoprene
rubber O-ring seal for shut-off valve above
È. Replace deteriorated, cracked and
dry-rotted O-ring, which can cause dangerous and hazardous leaking fuel.
Dimensions: 3/16" I.D. x 5/16" O.D.
-
.25¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
|
High Quality 90º
Plastic Plug-In gas tank Shut-Off Valve w/Fine Mesh Filter Screen and
Alcohol-Resistant
Neoprene
Rubber Grommet Kit. Fits Briggs & Stratton, Cub Cadet AQS "Quiet Line"
models and Kohler Magnum engine gas tanks. Neoprene rubber grommet plugs
into bottom of plastic gas tank, and fuel fitting fastens in the grommet.
These parts can also be used to repair a damaged threaded fuel outlet hole
on the bottom of a plastic gas tank by drilling out threads with a 9/16"
drill bit, then install grommet and fitting. Use oil or grease for easy insertion
of each part. 1/4" and 5/16" stepped barbed fuel hose fitting. Replaces Cub
Cadet part # IH-109042-C2; Wheel Horse 104048 (except w/filter screen).
-
High quality aftermarket. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Briggs & Stratton part # 192980GS. $16.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
|
1/8" NPT x 1/8"
NPT x 3/4" length [close] steel pipe connector. Use to fasten fuel shut-off
/filter/sediment bowl assembly (listed below
Ê) to gas tank. Use
plumber's thread sealing tape to guarantee a leak-proof
seal.
-
High quality aftermarket. $1.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 25 136 23-S. $1.30 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Fuel
Shut-Off/Filter/Sediment Bowl Assembly. Allows for fuel to be filtered and
any heavy dirt or debris, or water content in the fuel to be settled in the
glass bowl. 100% cleanable. Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71,
72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 147,
and replacement for various other makes and models of older lawn and garden
small engines. Threads into bottom of gas tank. Use for a leaky carburetor
or long term storage of
equipment. This part is required by certain pulling associations/clubs
for safety. Dimensions - overall height: 3"; maximum width (not including
shut-off valve): 1-3/4"; thread fittings: inlet (top) and outlet (side) are
both 1/8" NPT. Use
plumber's thread sealing tape on fittings to guarantee
a leak-proof seal. Use fuel hose conversion/upgrade kit (above
È) instead if you wish. Complete assembly
discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler A-210101, 25 755 22-S; Briggs &
Stratton 293964, 295913, 295977, 296005, 393169, 690612; Clinton 293-32-500,
293-32-5; Gravely 010313; John Deere PT4337; Tecumseh 24449, 24459, 32164,
32439, 32984, 32984A, 34279, 34279A, 34279B; Wisconsin LP43. High quality
aftermarket. A-1 Miller's part # 21-1009. $11.50 each, plus shipping
& handling. |
Alcohol-resistant
neoprene
rubber O-ring seal for shut-off valve shaft in fuel shut-off/filter/sediment
bowl assembly listed above È. Replace
deteriorated, cracked and dry-rotted O-ring or leather packing, which can
cause dangerous and hazardous leaking fuel. Dimensions: 1/8" I.D. x 1/4"
O.D.
-
High quality aftermarket. .25¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Replacement
glass bowl for fuel shut-off/filter/sediment bowl assembly listed above
È. Dimensions: 1-1/2" maximum width
x 1-1/8" height. Replaces: Briggs & Stratton # 298683; John Deere # PT4271.
-
High quality aftermarket. $3.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 210467-S. $17.15 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Gasket
(Alcohol-Resistant Neoprene Rubber Seal) for fuel shut-off/filter/sediment
bowl assembly listed above È. Dimensions:
1-1/4" I.D. x 1-1/2" O.D. x .060" thickness.
-
High quality aftermarket. A-1 Miller's part # 14-1097. $1.00 each,
plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 210468-S. $3.40 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Fine Mesh Brass
Filter Screen for Fuel Sediment Bowl Assembly listed above
È. 1-1/4" O.D.
-
OEM Kohler part # 210479-S. $4.90 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Wing nuts, Pleated Air Filters and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Pre-Filters
-
Click here to contact A-1 Miller's
Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing,
and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance
and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need
a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in
this website. |
Each wingnut
listed below recommended for side-mounted air cleaner covers or battery hold-down
studs. Do not use on top-mounted air cleaner covers due to rain water seeping
into intake or when washing off engine. 1/4-20 UNC threads. Each replaces
Kohler part #'s X-276-7 and 25 100 15-S.
-
Plain Heavy Gauge Stamped Steel Wingnut. .25¢ each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
Bright Cadmium-Plated Aluminum Wingnut with Self-Locking Nylon Insert.
$1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Heavy Gauge Stamped Steel Wingnuts
with Adhered Rubber Seal. Recommended for top-mounted air cleaner covers
to prevent rain water from seeping into intake or when washing off engine.
Also, rubber seal prevents wingnut from loosening. 1/4-20 UNC threads.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part #'s X-276-7 and 25 100 15-S.
$2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part #'s X-276-7 and 25 100 15-S. $3.16 each, plus shipping
& handling.
|
 Pleated Air Filter Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Pre-Filters.
Fits certain Kohler K-series engine models K91, K141, K161 and K181.
Non-restricting flame retardant filtering material. Performance engineered
for increased breathing. Air filter: Kohler 230840-S; Cub Cadet 385163R2;
Clinton 002-0233-00; Gravely 20299; John Deere AM31034; Massey 1035-991-M1;
Tecumseh 30804. Foam Wrap/Pre-Filter: Kohler 234870-S; John Deere AM31034;
Massey Ferguson 1035-991. Air filter element dimensions (±): 4-3/8"
O.D. x 3" I.D. x 1-1/2" overall height.
-
High quality aftermarket air filter. $8.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
High quality aftermarket foam wrap/Pre-Filter. $4.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
OEM Kohler air filter. $22.40 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler foam wrap/Pre-Filter. $7.55 each, plus shipping &
handling..
NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/pre-filter, use
brake parts cleaner,
electrical/electronic contact cleaner,
cleaning solvent or
paint thinner (these leave behind no oily residue) and
150± P.S.I. compressed air with an
air blow gun nozzle, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not
add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because
some of the oil could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is
running, partially clogging it. |
 Pleated Air Filters and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Pre-Filters. Fits
certain Kohler K-series engine model K181. Non-restricting flame retardant
filtering material. Performance engineered for increased breathing. Air filter:
Kohler 231847-S; Cub Cadet 548436R1; Gravely 15373; John Deere AM30800; Tecumseh
31925; Onan 140-1188, 140-188; Rol Air 431. Foam Wrap/Pre-Filter: Kohler
234869-S (K-series), 41 083 04-S (Magnum). Air filter element dimensions
(±): 4-3/8" O.D. x 3" I.D. x 2-5/16" overall height.
-
High quality aftermarket air filter. $10.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
High quality aftermarket foam wrap/pre-filter. $4.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
OEM Kohler air filter. $12.05 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler foam wrap/pre-filter. $7.55 each, plus shipping & handling.
NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/pre-filter, use
brake parts cleaner,
electrical/electronic contact cleaner,
cleaning solvent or
paint thinner (these leave behind no oily residue) and
150± P.S.I. compressed air with an
air blow gun nozzle, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not
add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because
some of the oil could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is
running, partially clogging it. |
 Pleated Air Filter Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Pre-Filters.
Fits various Kohler engine models K141, K161, K181, M8, K241, M10, K301,
M12 and K321, M14 with the short
round metal air cleaner/filter assembly. Non-restricting flame retardant
filtering material. Performance engineered for increased breathing. Air filter:
Kohler 235116-S; Cub Cadet 385168R2. Foam Wrap/Pre-Filter: Kohler 237421-S.
Air filter element dimensions (±): 6" O.D. x 4-11/16" I.D. x 1-7/8"
overall height.
-
High quality aftermarket air filter. $10.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
High quality aftermarket foam wrap/pre-filter. $3.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
OEM Kohler air filter. $10.60 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler foam wrap/pre-filter. $4.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/pre-filter, use
brake parts cleaner,
electrical/electronic contact cleaner,
cleaning solvent or
paint thinner (these leave behind no oily residue) and
150± P.S.I. compressed air with an
air blow gun nozzle, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not
add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because
some of the oil could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is
running, partially clogging it. |
 Pleated Air Filter Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Pre-Filters.
Fits certain Kohler and Magnum engine models K241, K301, K321, K341, CH11-15,
KT17 (first design), KT19 (first design), and M18-20 engines with the
AQS "Quiet Line" oblong/egg-shape
metal air cleaner/filter assembly. Fits Kohler AQS "Quiet Line" series
engines in Cub Cadet models 680, 1000, 1050, 1200, 1204, 1211, 1250, 1282,
1450 and 1650. Non-restricting flame retardant filtering material. Performance
engineered for increased breathing. Air filter: Kohler 47 083 01-S; Cub Cadet
117210-C1, 759-3547, 959-3547; Gravely 032494, John Deere M83646, Lesco 012596.
Foam Wrap/Pre-Filter: Kohler 52 083 01-S. Air filter element dimensions
(±): 7" O.D. x 5-1/2" I.D. x 1-3/4" overall height.
-
High quality aftermarket air filter. $11.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
High quality aftermarket foam wrap/pre-filter. $3.50 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
OEM Kohler air filter. $17.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler foam wrap/pre-filter. $4.55 each, plus shipping & handling.
NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/pre-filter, use
brake parts cleaner,
electrical/electronic contact cleaner,
cleaning solvent or
paint thinner (these leave behind no oily residue) and
150± P.S.I. compressed air with an
air blow gun nozzle, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not
add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because
some of the oil could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is
running, partially clogging it. |
 Pleated Air Filter Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Pre-Filters.
Fits Kohler engine models K341, CH18-25, CV18-22, KT17 Series II, KT19 Series
II and M18-20; for 17 thru 22hp engines with the
AQS "Quiet Line" oblong/egg-shape
metal air cleaner/filter assembly. Fits Kohler AQS "Quiet Line" series
engines. Non-restricting flame retardant filtering material. Performance
engineered for increased breathing. Air filter: Kohler 47 083 03-S; John
Deere M47494 (fits JD models 200, 210, 212, 214, 216, 300, 312, 314, 316,
400); Woods 71803. Foam Wrap/Pre-Filter: Kohler 41 083 04-S. Air filter
element dimensions (±): 7" O.D. x 5-1/2" I.D. x 2-7/16" overall
height.
-
High quality aftermarket air filter. $9.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
High quality aftermarket foam wrap/pre-filter. $4.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
OEM Kohler air filter. $9.65 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler foam wrap/pre-filter. $6.65 each, plus shipping & handling.
NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/pre-filter, use
brake parts cleaner,
electrical/electronic contact cleaner,
cleaning solvent or
paint thinner (these leave behind no oily residue) and
150± P.S.I. compressed air with an
air blow gun nozzle, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not
add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because
some of the oil could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is
running, partially clogging it. |
 Pleated Air Filter Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Pre-Filters.
Fits Kohler Command CH25, CV18, CV20 and CV22. Non-restricting flame retardant
filtering material. Performance engineered for increased breathing. Air filter:
Kohler 24 083 09-S; John Deere GY20576. Foam Wrap/Pre-Filter: Kohler 24 083
02-S. Air filter element dimensions (±): 7" O.D. x 5-1/2" I.D. x
3" overall height.
-
High quality aftermarket air filter. $11.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
High quality aftermarket foam wrap/pre-filter. $3.50 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
OEM Kohler air filter. $20.05 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler foam wrap/pre-filter. $4.55 each, plus shipping & handling.
NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/pre-filter, use
brake parts cleaner,
electrical/electronic contact cleaner,
cleaning solvent or
paint thinner (these leave behind no oily residue) and
150± P.S.I. compressed air with an
air blow gun nozzle, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not
add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because
some of the oil could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is
running, partially clogging it. |
 Pleated Air Filter Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Pre-Filters.
Fits certain Kohler engine models M8, K321, M14, K341, M16, KT17 Series II,
MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20 with the
tall round metal air cleaner/filter
assembly. Can also
be used on a competition garden pulling tractors, mini rod pulling vehicles,
hot rods, etc., with an automotive engine. Non-restricting flame retardant
filter. Performance engineered for increased breathing. Air filter: Kohler
45 083 02-S; Cub Cadet 759-3359. Foam Wrap/Pre-Filter: Kohler 45 083 01-S.
Air filter element dimensions (±): 6" O.D. x 4-11/16" I.D. x 3" overall
height.
-
High quality aftermarket air filter. $9.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
High quality aftermarket foam wrap/pre-filter. $3.50 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
OEM Kohler air filter. $17.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler foam wrap/pre-filter. $3.75 each, plus shipping & handling.
NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/pre-filter, use
brake parts cleaner,
electrical/electronic contact cleaner,
cleaning solvent or
paint thinner (these leave behind no oily residue) and
150± P.S.I. compressed air with an
air blow gun nozzle, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not
add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because
some of the oil could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is
running, partially clogging it. |
 Pleated Air Filter Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Pre-Filters.
Fits various Kohler engine models K241, K301, K341, K482, K532 and K582 with
the tall round-shape metal
air cleaner/filter assembly. Can also be used on mini rod pulling vehicles,
hot rods, etc. with an automotive engine. Non-restricting flame retardant
filtering material. Performance engineered for increased breathing. Air filter:
Kohler 277138-S. Foam Wrap/Pre-Filter: Kohler 277593-S. Air filter element
dimensions (±): 6" O.D. x 4-3/4" I.D. x 4" overall height.
-
High quality aftermarket air filter. $12.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
High quality aftermarket foam wrap/pre-filter. $5.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
OEM Kohler air filter. $20.70 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler foam wrap/pre-filter. $16.10 each, plus shipping &
handling.
NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/pre-filter, use
brake parts cleaner,
electrical/electronic contact cleaner,
cleaning solvent or
paint thinner (these leave behind no oily residue) and
150± P.S.I. compressed air with an
air blow gun nozzle, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not
add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because
some of the oil could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is
running, partially clogging it. |
1-7/8" Short Round OEM Kohler
Air Cleaner Assembly. Can be used to replace missing or damaged air cleaner
assembly on Kohler engine models K241, K301 or K321, or can be used on the
AQS (Quiet Line) engine models K241, K301, K321 to allow for more air to
enter the engine to produce more power. Complete assembly includes: new mounting
gasket, pleated paper air filter element, foam wrap/pre-filter, mounting
base, cover and wing nut. Used and in excellent condition. Discontinued Kohler
part # A-235100-S. $80.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When
available or in stock.) |
3" Tall Round OEM Kohler
Air Cleaner Assembly. Can be used to replace the shorter air cleaner assembly
with the 1-7/8" tall air filter element on Kohler engine models K241, K301
or K321, or can be used on the AQS (Quiet Line) engine models K241, K301,
K321, K341, K361, M10, M12, M14 or M16 to allow for more air to enter the
engine to produce more power. This taller air filter element will also last
60% longer under dusty conditions than the shorter air filter element. Complete
assembly includes: new mounting gasket, pleated paper air filter element,
foam wrap/pre-filter, mounting base, cover and wing nut. Used and in excellent
condition. $80.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available
or in stock.) |
NOTE: Air filters and foam wraps/pre-filters are
available for various other makes and models of small engines. If you need
something that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's
with your engine model and specification numbers and I'll see if we can get
it for you at a reasonable price. Please contact A-1 Miller's
if you're interested in any of the listed above
È parts or items.
FYI - About the air cleaner assembly
on the Kohler K90/K91 engine with the Carter Model N #13 or #16 carburetor
shown above, being the OEM Kohler air cleaner assembly and individual components
are no longer available, and used OEM Kohler air cleaner assemblies or components
in good condition are extremely hard to find nowadays and/or is cost prohibitive,
the lower priced and readily available OEM Tecumseh air cleaner assembly
shown on the Kohler K91 engine above will fit this engine with one modification
that needs to be made. The center of the [plastic] mounting adapter will
need to be bored-out/enlarged to match the diameter of the inlet opening
of the carburetor to allow the engine to draw plenty of air. This air cleaner
assembly includes a pleated paper air filter element (part # 35066), plastic
twist-on cover (part # 35065), plastic mounting adapter (part # 35797), and
mounting gasket (part # 27272A). Two 8-32 UNC screws with two small spacers
and two flat washers w/lock washers and gasket are also needed to securely
fasten the adapter to the carburetor. And the OEM Tecumseh air cleaner assembly
shown to the right -> (part # 730164), which includes a pleated paper
air filter element, metal cover, and metal mounting plate, will also fit
this engine with no modifications whatsoever. A proven, ingenious and
innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else online mentions doing
this. The OEM Kohler air cleaner assemblies for Kohler engine models
K141, K160/K161 and K181 will also fit the K90/K91 engine carburetor. |
Never Over-Tighten the Mounting Bolts or Use Multiple Gaskets When Fastening
the Carburetor to the Engine! (Updated 11/26/16)
When installing the carburetor
to an engine, the use of two or more gaskets and then torquing the mounting
bolts to specifications, or just over-tightening the bolts will severely
warp the mounting flange on a carburetor, causing it to bend, which will
create a vacuum leak, or worse yet, being cast aluminum don't bend or flex
too easily, the flange could break. So remember, before installing any
carburetor, first resurface the mounting flange on a wide, flat
belt- or disc-sander/grinder or on the side of an abrasive
metal cutting wheel on a
electric chop saw (the kind that automotive muffler shops
use) to remove warpage and restore flatness (be sure to use eye protection!),
and for general lawn and garden use, install just one thin (.030" thickness)
gasket or one (5/32" thickness) heat isolator
gasket. And be sure to use the "two-bolt torque" sequence! To do this,
lightly tighten the first bolt, then lightly tighten the second bolt, and
tighten the first bolt securely, and then tighten the second bolt securely.
If a Carter or Kohler or Walbro carburetor body is broken and/or damaged
beyond repair, the carburetor body is 100% scrap metal. (If the threads for
the float bowl retaining bolt are stripped-out, read below
Ê.) But the parts on the carburetor body
are considered valuable and can be used on another carburetor body that's
in good condition (if some of the parts are in fact reusable). Parts such
as: throttle and choke shafts and plates, choke friction (detent) ball and
spring, idle speed adjusting screw and spring, idle fuel mixture screw and
spring, high speed air/fuel needle adjuster and spring, main jet/nozzle (emulsion
tube), fuel inlet valve and seat (if not worn and leaks fuel), float, float
pin, float bowl, neoprene rubber O-ring seal, fuel baffle/splash shield,
bowl retaining screw, and fuel hose fitting. The OEM (US) manufacturers
are phasing out many parts for flathead engines due to EPA smog emissions.
But some parts may still be available in aftermarket.
How to Repair Stripped-Out Float Bowl Retaining Bolt Threads in a Carter
or Kohler or Walbro Carburetor - A proven, ingenious and innovative
concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else mentions these type of
repairs.


But if the threads
for the float bowl retaining bolt are stripped-out in a Carter Model N #13,
#16, #18, #20, #22 carburetor, an 8mm fine thread (M8 x 1.25 pitch) metric
bolt can be used. But if the metric threads become stripped-out, then a 3/8-24
UNF bowl retaining bolt (for the Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 or Walbro
WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors) can be used. For the 8mm
metric bolt, an 8mm x 1.25
bottom hand tap will need to be used. But for a 3/8-24
bolt, the stripped-out hole will need to be enlarged with a 21/64" drill
bit (be careful not to drill into the main jet; there's no need to remove
the main jet/nozzle), and new threads will need to be cut
perpendicular
to the carburetor body with a 3/8-24 UNF
bottom hand tap. A bottom tap cuts the threads deeper with
very little taper at the end. Do not complete the tapping process with just
a taper or plug tap because the threads may not go deep enough for the bigger
bolt. However, the threads can be started with a taper or plug tap, but will
need to be finished with the bottom tap. Then use 150± P.S.I. compressed
air with an air blow gun nozzle to thoroughly clear out the metal
drilling/cuttings from the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube) and entire carburetor!
A 3/8" I.D. fiber washer will need to be used with the 3/8" bolt, and the
hole in the float bowl will need to be drilled out to 3/8" to match the bolt
in the carburetor, or use a float bowl with a 3/8" hole. And do not over-tighten
the metric bolt to prevent from stripping the new threads. If the metric
threads strip out, the carburetor body is scrap metal.
If the threads for the float
bowl retaining bolt are stripped-out in a Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30,
Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 or virtually any other carburetor
that use a 3/8"-24 UNF float bowl retaining bolt, a 10mm fine thread (M10
x 1.25 pitch) x 3/8" thread length bolt can be used. If a 3/8" length metric
bolt can't be found, a longer bolt that's made of mild steel can be machined
down (shortened) in a metal lathe. IMPORTANT:
If you don't feel comfortable using a metal lathe, please consult a professional
and experienced machinist with a lathe. Being the stripped-out
hole is already large enough for the M10 x 1.25 threads to be cut, so it
won't need to be drilled out. But if it does need drilling out (enlarging),
use an 8.8 mm or 11/32" drill bit (be careful not to drill into the main
jet; there's no need to remove the main jet/nozzle), then new threads will
need to be cut
perpendicular
to the carburetor body with a M10 x 1.25
bottom hand tap. A bottom tap cuts the threads deeper
with very little taper at the end. Do not complete the tapping process with
just a taper or plug tap because the threads may not go deep enough for the
metric bolt. However, the threads can be started with a taper or plug tap,
but will need to be finished with the bottom tap. Then use 150± P.S.I.
compressed air with an air blow gun nozzle to thoroughly clear out the metal
drilling/cuttings from the main jet/nozzle and entire carburetor! Also, the
holes in the fiber washer and in the float bowl for the retaining bolt will
need to be enlarged to 13/32" to match the bolt in the carburetor. And do
not over-tighten the metric bolt to prevent from stripping the new threads.
If the metric threads strip out, the carburetor body is scrap metal. But
save everything off of it because they can be used on another carburetor
body that's in good condition.

On a used (and supposedly clean) carburetor, if the float bowl
retaining bolt will not effortlessly tighten against the float bowl to secure
it in place, DO NOT FORCE THE BOLT TO TIGHTEN! Doing this may cause the thin-wall
metal to split, possibly rendering the carburetor useless. The resistance
in threading the bolt in the hole is caused by debris "gumming up" the threads
in the carburetor body (or in the threads of the bolt). Instead, clean the
threads in the carburetor body with a 3/8-24 UNF BOTTOM hand tap, then use
150± P.S.I. compressed air with an air blow gun nozzle to clear out
the debris. With a bottom tap, there's no need to remove the main jet/nozzle
(emulsion tube). But if the protruding part where the float bowl bolt threads
into is previously cracked or does split, a spring-loaded 1/2" fuel hose
clamp can be installed over the protruding part with the opening in the clamp
opposite the crack. This will reinforce the aluminum, squeeze the tube back
to its original size and prevent the crack from spreading when the bolt is
tightened. After the clamp is installed, grind the protruding tangs flush
with the clamp so they will not make contact with and interfere with the
operation of the float. The clamp will then become a permanent part of the
carburetor. And if any part of the clamp blocks off the fuel feed holes,
a new 3/32" fuel feed hole will need to be drilled through the opening in
the clamp so fuel from the float bowl can reach the main jet/nozzle. This
size hole should be big enough to allow plenty of fuel to enter through the
main jet. A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller,
because nobody else advertise this type of repair.
How to Repair the Vacu-Jet (3hp) and Pulsa-Jet
(3.5 or 4hp) Automatic Choke Carburetor on a Vertical Shaft Briggs &
Stratton Flathead Engine - [Top of Page]


The first design Vacu-Jet carburetor
have a manual choke and no diaphragm. The carburetor body is fastened to
the gas tank with a single gasket. The second design Vacu-Jet carburetor
have a manual choke and a neoprene diaphragm with a bellow for easier operation
of the choke. The third design Vacu-Jet carburetor have an automatic choke
and a diaphragm. The diaphragm acts like a gasket between the carburetor
body and gas tank. And the Pulsa-Jet carburetor have a diaphragm and built-in
fuel pump to deliver fuel to the combustion chamber. The Vacu-Jet and Pulsa-Jet
carburetors operates off of intake vacuum to deliver fuel to the combustion
chamber. Both of the [newest design] Vacu-Jet and Pulsa-Jet carburetors have
a diaphragm and automatic choke. If either of the [newest design] Vacu-Jet
and Pulsa-Jet carburetors run rich on fuel, and if the choke will not open
after starting the engine, what has happened is where the carburetor is fastened
to the gas tank, these two "mating surfaces" have become warped. This is
caused by over-tightening of the air filter housing screw. To fix this...
-
Remove the carburetor/gas tank assembly from the engine.
-
Remove the choke rod cover from the carburetor and the carburetor from the
gas tank.
-
Completely disassemble the carburetor, except for the throttle shaft and
choke plate. Gently remove the fuel pickup tubes with a 3/8" and 9/16" 6-point
socket. Be careful not to twist them off in the carburetor!
-
Use a
carburetor jet cleaner wire set or an
oxy-acetylene welding torch tip cleaner of the correct
size to clear out the dried gas and/or dirt/debris from the idle and main
nozzle holes.
IMPORTANT: When cleaning
the holes, use a wire cleaner of the correct size, and be careful not to
enlarge either hole, or the engine may run too rich on fuel! This cannot
be undone!
-
There is no need to use Briggs & Stratton's roll pin and Teflon washer
repair kit for a warped carburetor and gas tank! Instead, resurface the
carburetor's diaphragm surface on a wide, flat
belt- or disc-sander/grinder or on the side of an abrasive
metal cutting wheel on a
electric chop saw (the kind that automotive muffler shops
use) to remove warpage and restore flatness. (Be sure to use eye protection!)
If the carburetor is warped, the sander/grinder will make contact where the
screw holes are, but not the area between the screw holes.
-
Again, there is no need to use Briggs & Stratton's roll pin and Teflon
washer repair kit for a warped carburetor and gas tank! Instead, with the
gas tank lightly clamped in a large bench vise, resurface the diaphragm surface
with a large, wide, flat file to remove warpage and restore flatness. Use
caution! Do not "rock the file" when resurfacing the mating surface of the
tank! Use diagonal and swirling motions of the file so the diaphragm surface
will be more or less even across the gas tank, or very little will be
gained.'
-
NOTE: Don't believe all brain-washed, factory-trained technicians. Because
sometimes one must improvise to make something work. And regardless of how
the service/repair manual reads, using a large, flat file to make the warped
surface on a carburetor and/or gas tank flat again will not hurt anything
if a skillful person does it correctly. Briggs & Stratton wants to make
more money by selling unsuspecting customers new parts. That's why they write
their manuals the way they do. Remember the old saying: "A fool and their
money are soon parted." Briggs & Stratton probably laugh all the way
to the bank after making every sale, too.
-
After resurfacing, use a
hacksaw blade to recut (or deepen) the shallow groove from the choke bellow
well to the vacuum port. Doing this will allow the choke plate to open
immediately when the engine starts. Failure to do this will allow the choke
plate to open very slowly or not open at all, which will cause the engine
to flood out and die.
-
Use 150± P.S.I. compressed air with an air blow gun nozzle to clear
out the metal filings and any dirt or debris from the air and fuel passageways
in the carburetor, screens on the fuel pickup tubes, and entire gas tank.
-
Reinstall the fuel pickup tubes in the carburetor with the 3/8" and 9/16"
6-point socket. Be careful not to twist them off in the carburetor!
-
To reinstall the carburetor on the gas tank, hold the carburetor upside-down,
place the fuel pump spring and protective cup in its counterbore, and the
diaphragm on the carburetor (a new diaphragm should be installed), and place
the tank on the carburetor. Doing this retains the diaphragm and fuel pump
spring/protector in place. Make sure the fuel pump flapper valves are in
place, too. Then while holding the carburetor tight against the tank, flip
both the carburetor and gas tank over and the screws can be installed.
-
Insert the choke rod in the choke shaft and flip the choke plate over of
normal operation. This preloads the bellow in the diaphragm, making it
flex easier and allows the choke plate open easier when the engine starts.
-
If it's a Pulsa-Jet carburetor, invert the carburetor (turn upside down)
and place the fuel pump spring in first with the protective cap on the spring.
Place the spring and cap in the carburetor recess, and not in the gas tank
recess. With the carburetor still upside down, install the diaphragm on the
carburetor, place the tank on the carburetor, then flip them over to loosely
install the mounting screws.
-
Connect the choke rod to the choke lever, and flip the choke plate over in
the reverse rotation with the lever facing downward. Doing this places pressure
on the bellow of the diaphragm so the choke plate can open more freely without
binding when the engine starts.
-
Tighten the carburetor mounting screws, reinstall the choke rod cover with
a new gasket and that's it!
How to Repair the Pulsa-Jet Carburetor on a Vertical or Horizontal Shaft
5hp Briggs & Stratton Flathead Engine -
If a 5hp Briggs & Stratton engine has excellent spark and adequate
compression, but doesn't run right, then the problem is obviously in the
carburetor. To fix the problem...
-
Remove the carburetor from the engine and gas tank, completely disassemble,
and clean the carburetor body and metal parts with an
ultrasonic cleaning machine. Personally, I use
automotive windshield washer fluid and a small amount of laundry detergent
in my ultrasonic cleaner and it cleans carburetor and other small parts very
well. Although
Berryman® Chem-Dip® Carburetor and Parts Cleaner
can also be used to dissolve or loosen any dried gas deposits, crud and debris.
And use brake cleaner, parts cleaner or paint thinner to finish cleaning
off the remaining grime, then blow-dry the parts and clear the debris from
the carburetor body and fuel passageways with 150± P.S.I. compressed
air and an air blow gun nozzle.
-
Use a
carburetor jet cleaner wire set or an
oxy-acetylene welding torch tip cleaner of the correct
size to clear out the dried gas and/or dirt/debris from the idle and main
nozzle holes.
IMPORTANT: When cleaning
the holes, use a wire cleaner of the correct size, and be careful not to
enlarge either hole, or the engine may run too rich on fuel! This cannot
be undone!
-
Use 150± P.S.I. compressed air with an air blow gun nozzle to clear
the debris from the nozzle holes, entire carburetor and gas tank.
-
Clean the screens on the pickup tubes.
-
When the carburetor-to-block mounting screws are tightened for the first
time, this causes the carburetor mounting flange to warp, which allows for
a vacuum leak. To fix this, resurface the carburetor flange on a wide, flat
belt- or disc-sander/grinder or on the side of an abrasive
metal cutting wheel on a
electric chop saw (the kind that automotive muffler shops
use) to remove warpage and restore flatness. (Be sure to use eye protection!)
If the flange is warped, the sander will make contact where the bolt holes
are, but not the area between the bolt holes.
-
Again, when the fuel pump cover mounting screws are tightened for the first
time, this causes the cover to warp, which causes a vacuum leak, and the
pump will not produce full flow and pressure to the reservoir bowl. To fix
this, resurface the cover with a wide, flat
belt- or disc-sander/grinder or on the side of an abrasive
metal cutting wheel on a
electric chop saw (the kind that automotive muffler shops
use) to remove warpage and restore flatness. (Be sure to use eye protection!)
-
Install a new fuel pump
diaphragm, carburetor to tank gasket and carburetor to block gasket, set
the fuel mixture adjustment screw about 1-1/2 turns out, and make the final
adjustment after the engine runs.
-
If the throttle shaft needs to be removed for whatever reason, first pull
the sheet metal spiral from the throttle bore with large pliers or
long/needle-nose Vise-Grips locking pliers. Then access
to the throttle plate retaining screw can be gained with a long slender
screwdriver. Repair as needed.
-
Your engine should run like new afterwards!
Whenever I perform a complete
tune-up, on an older Briggs & Stratton engine, I usually perform a
professional valve job, too. I always include cleaning and lubricating the
ratchet starter clutch and recoil starter spring. I completely disassemble
the starter clutch, use a flat blade screwdriver to rotate a clean shop towel
through the center of the square part to remove any dirt and debris, and
if necessary, I use fine emery cloth to remove any scale from the stub shaft
on the crankshaft. Then I lightly lubricate the catch balls, the stub shaft
and felt filter with lightweight oil, such as 3-IN-ONE oil or automotive
power steering fluid (which is 10 weight hydraulic oil). This have always
worked very well and provided superior lubrication for many years to prevent
the clutch from squealing on the crankshaft, which a lot of times scared
the crap out of my customers. (Some customers told me their lawn mower is
possessed because of the squealing.)
If the starter clutch still squeals after a short time of running the engine
at full governed speed, remove the starter clutch, an lightly run a fine
tooth file around the stub shaft and then use fine emery cloth to polish
the shaft. And then again, rotate the clean shop towel inside the square
hub to ensure that it's absolutely clean. May need to run a 1/2" drill bit
inside the square hub to remove any burrs. Now place the square hub on the
shaft and rotate it by hand to check if that's any friction or binding. If
it rotates freely, lightly oil the shaft and inside the square hub. Don't
be too generous with the oil though, because some of it could run down between
the tapers and cause the flywheel key to shear.
How I Install a New Nylon Rope/String
in an Older Briggs & Stratton Recoil Starter with the Ratchet Type Clutch
- (Added 2/16/22) [Top of Page]
I fabricated a recoil spring wind-up tool from the square hub/ratchet out
of an old Briggs starter clutch with broken off ears. I welded a T-shape
handle to the ratchet and use it to easily and effortlessly wind up the spring
by hand. Then I clamp a small needle-nose Vise Grip pliers on the end of
the spring while I'm winding it inside the housing to guarantee the end will
not go inside the housing. (If this happens, I'll have to start all over.)
And with the recoil housing of the flywheel shroud lightly clamped in a bench
vise, once the spring is wind up and the hole in the starter pulley is aligned
with the starter housing grommet opening, to prevent the pulley from unwinding,
I drilled a 9/32" hole through the ratchet for a 1/4" steel rod to hold it
in place so I can feed the rope/string through the opening and into the pulley
and secure it with a double knot. And then I lubricate the spring with motor
oil through the oil hole in the pulley and pull the rope several times to
evenly distribute the oil and test the starter. (Work smarter, not
harder.)
How to clean the main jet in a 16hp/18hp flathead opposed twin cylinder
Briggs & Stratton engine -
The main jet is located in the float bowl of the carburetor. To access and
clean it...
-
If equipped, remove the hood of the tractor (they're easy to remove).
-
Remove the air cleaner/filter assembly. Be careful not to drop the screws
down inside the carburetor!
-
Remove the choke cable from the carburetor.
-
Remove the top of the carburetor.
-
Remove the hex plug on the side of the carburetor.
-
Use a
carburetor jet cleaner wire set or an
oxy-acetylene welding torch tip cleaner of the correct
size to clean out the hole (orifice) in the main jet. The hole (orifice)
in the main jet is accessed through where the hex plug is.
IMPORTANT: When cleaning the hole (orifice) in
the main jet, use a wire cleaner of the correct size, and be careful not
to enlarge the hole, or the engine may run too rich on fuel! This cannot
be undone!
-
Use 150± P.S.I. compressed air with an air blow gun nozzle to clear
out the hole (orifice) in the main jet and dirt/debris from the float bowl
area.
-
Reinstall everything in reverse order of removal.
Your engine should rev up without using the choke afterwards! This may have
to be done every few years because these type of carburetors are notorious
for having tiny particles of dirt/debris that passes through the fuel filter
settle at the bottom of the float bowl. The main jet is real close to the
bottom of the float bowl too, which allows dirt/debris to clog it over time.
Click
Here for Detailed Illustrated Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back
and Self-Propelled Garden Tractor Pulling Sled (Available
Soon)
To place an order and/or for FREE professional and honest
technical customer service assistance and support, please contact: A-1
Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO
(Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-554-9008 (new number; land line) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; call
or text). Call in your order or email us a list parts you need.
Payment Options. Please call Monday-Friday,
9am to 5pm, Central time zone, except holidays. If no answer, please try
again later. (When speaking with Brian on the phone, please be patient
and understanding because I stutter.)
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central
time zone, with an appointment on weekends, except holidays. If you're the
kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling
your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
purchase parts, or drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly,
engine parts, etc., for repairing and/or rebuilding. Or visit our new shop
at 12091 N. Rt. B, Hallsville, MO
65255 to drop off your entire engine, transmission, transaxle, entire
garden tractor, small motorized vehicle, etc. Please call, text or email
me before coming so I'll be at my shop waiting for your arrival. When you
visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with the owner for the best
customer service. Directions to our
(old) shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. "The road to a [trusted] friend's
house (or shop) is never long." Don't sacrifice quality workmanship for
distance. [Return To Previous Paragraph,
Section or Website]
By the way - As business is booming,
we're going to relocate our business soon at 12091 N. Rt. B, Hallsville,
MO 65255 with a bigger, better, fully insulated, heated and air-conditioned
building/shop (shouse) so we can provide many more high quality parts and
professional services, and hire more reliable and knowledgeable help to have
our customer's parts orders fulfilled sooner, parts repairs and engine rebuilds
performed promptly without delay. We will also offer custom welding fabrication
jobs and other custom services. We will also provide pick up and delivery
service and perform professional repairs for various small engines and lawn
& garden equipment! Photos of
our new building/shop are posted here!
12091 N. Rt. B, Hallsville, MO 65255 - Google Maps
To place an order, please call the number listed
below Ê or send an email with your name,
complete and correct postal address and phone number and so I can figure
the total with shipping cost and USPS Tracking. For payment options for parts
ordered or services performed, or to make a donation to my websites, I accept
cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks,
MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total
for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge),
Western
Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram
Money Transfers. (If a part for a specific purpose is special ordered,
your debit/credit card may be charged for the full amount or as a deposit
right after your order is placed; please do not send your debit/credit card
information in email!) Or you can pay A-1 Miller's through PayPal. (My PayPal
account name is my email address. And be sure to mention in PayPal a description
of what the payment is for.) If sending a money order, please include a note
in the envelope with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone
number and a description of what the payment is for. My mailing address and
phone number are listed below Ê . I'll
make a note of your order, and I may have to order some of the parts, which
should take a few days to come in, but I will send the parts to you as soon
as I have everything in stock after I receive your payment.
IMPORTANT - When sending your part(s) to A-1 Miller's
for rebuilding or repair, package everything securely so the item(s) won't
get damaged in shipping and please include a note in the box with your name,
mailing address, phone number (in case I have any questions) and a description
of what you want done. When shipping heavy parts, it's best to put a slightly
smaller box inside a larger box, to double the strength and integrity of
the package. Because the clumsy "gorillas" or incompetent and uncaring workers
that work for certain delivery services mishandle the heavy packages and
don't care. And when the work is completed, I'll either call or email you
an invoice with the total including shipping & handling.
Payment Options and We Ship to Canada and
Worldwide 
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent
by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged
item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service
Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal
Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S.
territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground
or equivalent services. We try to keep our shipping cost to customers within
reason. Therefore, we don't ship our products in a fancy-looking package
with our company name and/or logo on it because most customers will just
toss it in the trash after they remove the contents. And being there is no
USPS tracking number outside the US, all I can do is make sure I write your
address correctly on the customs form and on your package.
My websites are not set up to process orders and accept payments. Therefore,
for payment options, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders,
cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express
(please add 2.5% to the total amount for the credit/debit card processor's
surcharge),
Western
Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram
Money Transfers. If paying with a credit/debit card, please call me at
either number listed below. To make a payment to me through PayPal, please
click this link:
https://www.paypal.me/PullingTractor.
Or to make a payment to me (pullingtractor@aol.com) in the US through the
Venmo app, please click this link:
venmo.com. Or use
Cash App to make a payment to me
(pullingtractor@aol.com). And be sure to mention in PayPal, Venmo or Cash
App a description of what the payment is for with your full name, postal
address, phone number and email address. If sending a money order or cashier's
check, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete mailing
address, phone number, email address and a description of what the payment
is for. I'll make a note of your order when I have all your information,
and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to
come in, but I will send everything on your list to you as soon as I have
the parts in stock after I receive your payment.




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