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Where Science and Common Sense Come Together for Better Performance
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The Differences Between Turf and Lug Treads:
TURF tread is typically found on most common riding mowers and lawn & garden tractors (mainly grass cutting equipment). Turf tread doesn't provide good traction on dirt for pulling heavy loads, but it's easy on grass. (Carlisle turf tread tires are pictured.)
LUG tread is the traditional farm tractor or agricultural type of tread (angled with raised bars). Lug tread provides superior traction on dirt for pulling heavy loads, but it'll tear up grass. (Carlisle lug tires are pictured.
The rule of thumb for ALL pulling tractors is to get the front end as low as possible for better weight distribution and leverage. By doing this, the rear of the tractor and hitch is "raised up," and when the weight box on the sled starts to place pressure on the hitch, this will make it harder to raise the front end, causing the rear tires to bite or dig in more. Also, the front tires should be smaller (shorter in height) because all they do is support the front end and steer the tractor. And the rear tires should be bigger because they must support most of the weight of the entire tractor when pulling and provide the traction.
Always try to purchase pulling tires in a MATCHED SET!
Being rubber expands and decompresses as it cools, not all tires are manufactured to have the same exact height. Most reputable tire dealers that sell professional pulling tires sell them in pairs of the same height so the tractor will pull straight down the track. This is why it's important to try to match pulling tires that have the same height so one tire won't be slightly taller than the other. The most accurate way to know the height of each tire is to mount them on the same width wheel with about 10 psi of air pressure, then use a tape measure to measure the circumference at the center of the tread, and write the height in the tire. The circumference of each tire can vary when not mounted and properly inflated. Because when tires are stored stacked on one another or side by side on a rack, the circumference can't be accurately measured (when it isn't mounted and properly inflated).
If you plan to use Carlisle's 23-8.50x12 or 23-10.50x12 tires for competition pulling, you really need a set of the 4-ply tires to be competitive. Avoid using 2-ply lug tires for competition pulling! The lugs on 2-ply tires will bend back when the tires dig in the dirt, causing the tires to lose valuable traction, and being 4-ply tires are "firmer," the lugs on 4-ply tires will stay rigid when the tires dig in the dirt. The 4 ply tires stiffens the entire tire, including the lugs. 6- or even 8-ply tires works even better for pulling! And always match the wheels to the size (width) of the tire! For example: for 8-1/2" wide wheels, it's best to use 23-8.50x12 tires. The middle number in the tire size represents the width of the sidewall bulge when the tire is fully inflated and mounted on the proper width wheel.
And if you're running a set of new 26-12.00x12 Carlisle tires, well, these tires can pull with the best of them when the lugs are professionally "double-cut." Cut or angled lugs act like a wedge that digs in and grip the dirt better to pull the vehicle further. To double-cut the lugs for more traction, first cut the backside of the lugs so they'll be at a 45º angle, more or less (slope them back). If a 45º angle don't look quite right, sharpen the lugs at a 30º angle, more or less. Then cut a wedge between the lugs (the flat part) about 1/4" deep so this area will grip the dirt, too. By the way - the tire on the above right È, I bought them new in 1989, used in about 10 pulls per year on a 12hp Hot Stock tractor, and they have been sharpened only three times.
FYI - The 4.10/3.50-4 front tires is the proportional size to the 23-10.50x12 rear tires. The 4.10/3.50-6, 13-5.00-6 or 3.50x6 (Tri-Rib) front tires is the proportional size to the 26-12.00x12 rear tires. And the 3.50x8 (Tri-Rib) front tires looks better on a "big wheel" mini-rod pulling tractor.
If you're wondering how to cut, sharpen or reshape tire lugs, personally, we use a 4" handheld angle grinder with a metal tread cutting disc to cut or reshape our tire lugs. Tread cutting or grinding makes a big mess, so you may want to do outside your shop. You can also use an electric wood planer to cut the lugs. Electric wood planers works great and they make little smoke.
"Professional" VS "Non-Professional" Pulling Tires -
Some pulling club's sanctioning rules state that "no professional pulling tires shall be used in a stock class," Ever wondered what a "professional" and "non-professional" pulling tire is? Well, professional pulling tires come from the factory with molded cut lugs. They're used mainly on the higher horsepower tractors for better traction. Non-professional pulling tires have squared lugs. They're used (when rules require them) mainly on stock pulling tractors, probably for economical reasons.
Non-professional pulling tires are: Carlisle Super Lug (no longer in production), Carlisle Tru Power, Firestone Flotation 23 (no longer available) and McCreary Traxion.
And when it comes to "hardening the tread," new tires come with soft rubber on the outer edge of the tread. As the thread wears, the rubber gets harder further down in the tread. All tires are like this, even automotive tires. For a pulling tire to grip the dirt better and to prevent the lugs from "laying back" when under pressure, the process of hardening the tread is to draw the oil from the rubber so the outer part of the tread will be harder. And the older a pulling tire gets, the better edge it will hold because the rubber dries out and gets hard.
Adjust or Set the Air Pressure for Best Traction!
When inflating your [rear] tires, add air pressure so that the entire width of the tread will lay flat and evenly on the ground. Too little pressure will allow the outside edges of the tread to make most contact with the ground resulting in poor traction, plus the tire will be shortened in overall height. The opposite will happen with too much pressure. With too little pressure, the hitch height will also be lowered when the weight of the sled comes up on the tractor while the tractor is pulling down the track.
As tire pressure varies from one tire manufacturer to another, and depending on the width of the wheels that's being used, it seems that Carlisle tires seems to work best with about 10 p.s.i. Pioneer (formerly Dick Cepek) seems to work best with 4-6 p.s.i., when mounted on 12"-13" wide wheels. But use your own judgment when inflating tires! Actually, this is how to tell if the pressure is right: on a hard, dry track, immediately after making a pull, look at the tread for uneven scraping before moving the tractor away from the sled (as this will destroy any evidence on the tread). If there's a lot of scraping in the center of the tread, let some air out of the tires.
If a tire slips on the rim when pulling due to running low air pressure, then the wheel needs to be screwed to the tire. Although RTV silicone adhesive can be used, the best way to prevent tire/rim slippage is to install tire screws. Tire screws are very short and self-tapping. Install 6 screws per wheel equally spaced apart only on one side of each wheel. If using an inner tube, and if the wheel slips on the tire, without tire screws, the slippage could rip off the valve stem and ruin the tube. Tire screws can be acquired at a local auto parts store or off of eBay.
Pulling tire sizes are determined by the overall height, maximum width (including the side wall bulge) and the inside diameter. For example, 26-12.00x12 size represents that the tire is 26" tall (when fully inflated), has an overall width of 12" (bulge of sidewalls) and mounts on a 12" diameter wheel. These tires originally mount on 10.5" wide wheels, but for pulling purposes, it's best to mount them on 12" or 13" (which is better) wide wheels so the tread will lay flat. And mount 23-10.50x12 tires on 11" wide wheels so the tread will have better ground contact.
As far as wheel width is concerned, the correct width for most 26x12.00-12 pulling tires is 13" (when measured inside the wheel rims - see drawing). Actually, the correct wheel width for any pulling tire should be equal to or slightly more than the middle number of the tire size (maximum side wall bulge). This allows all of the tread to lay flat on the ground when the tire is inflated to about 10 p.s.i. air pressure. If a wheel is too narrow, the center of the tread will make most contact with the ground. Air pressure can be reduced with narrow wheels for improved ground contact, but this will cause the circumference of the tires to become smaller and it'll also cause the hitch to lower when the sled's weight is on the tractor, losing valuable ground speed, traction and proper weight transfer.
If a pulling club's rules require that 23-10.50x12 lug tires to be used, then these tires can be mounted on 12" wide wheels. I've seen this done many times on pulling tractors with great results. The wider wheels will allow the tire tread to lay flatter for better traction, but it'll also shorten the overall tire height slightly which will reduce the tractor's ground speed. Therefore, to regain the ground speed, if it's a Cub Cadet, perhaps installing 10% overdrive gears should do the trick. Also, 23-10.50x12 inner tubes may need to be installed to get the tire(s) to take air due to the wider wheels and narrow tires.
To determine the bolt pattern of a wheel (or mounting flange), measure from the outer edge of one bolt hole to the center of another that's farthest away.
Most rear garden tractor wheels have a 5-hole bolt pattern and a circle diameter of 4-1/2". This is the same bolt pattern used on most early domestic (American made) Ford (car wheels), domestic (American made) Chrysler, Dodge, Plymouth (cars and light trucks) and most 5-hole utility trailer wheels. The 12" trailer wheels can be widened to whatever width needs to be to match the tire to be mounted on it.
Adapting Wheels for Use with a Different Axle Flange Bolt Pattern -
When adapting Douglas or Real Racing aluminum wheels or ordinary garden tractor wheels to an axle flange with a different bolt pattern, new holes will need to be drilled in the flanges. For precision accuracy and so the wheels will not move "up and down" when rotating, the holes in the flanges must be drilled in a super spacer that's fastened on the table of a milling machine. The bolt pattern for most garden tractor wheels is 4.500". This means that the center of the super spacer needs to be moved 2.250" offset. Then each hole will need to be drilled precisely in five positions, starting at 0°, then at 72°, 144°, 216° and finally at 288°. If the holes are not drilled this way, the wheels will not be centered with the axles. Automotive wheels can be adapted to another vehicle using this method too, as long as the flange is big enough to accept a larger bolt pattern. IE: Using Chevy car wheels on a Ford 9" truck rear end.
Using Garden Tractor Wheels on a Small Wheel (26-12.00x12) Mini-Rod with an Automotive Rear End and Axles -
All 12" wheels, rather for a garden tractor or utility trailer, come with a 4.5 x 5 bolt pattern (4-1/2" spacing with 5 holes). An early model 8" or 9" Ford car axle flange will work with 12" garden tractor wheels because they have the same bolt pattern. But to use a Ford truck or GM car or truck axle with 12" garden tractor wheels, the centers will need to be cut out of each wheel, and then true-up and weld-in the automotive centers in the 12" wheels. Make sure the offset back-spacing is set correctly, too. Go here: Wheel Bolt Pattern Cross Reference Database and Conversion Guide. To find a set of wheels with the bolt pattern that's needed, try a local automotive salvage yard, search eBay or Craigslist.
Remember - when choosing or widening a set of rear wheels, buy them or have them made so they'll set as close as possible to the tractor frame. This will allow for a narrow wheel base width on the rear because it's hard to guide a tractor with one's body weight when the rear wheels set out a lot. The reason for this is if a tractor starts heading toward the boundary line, one would need to shift their body weight or lean less with [rear] tires that set inward or closer together. Narrowing of the fenders may need to be done in order to position the wheels close as possible to the frame. That way, the operator can lean less. Move and reweld the centers in steel wheels if necessary to accomplish this.
To move or relocate the centers in steel wheels...
What does "offset" of the wheel mean?
The offset of a wheel is where the center section is positioned in the wheel. If a 12" diameter x 12" wide wheel has a 4" x 8" offset, this means that the center is positioned or measured 4" from the backside and 8" from the front side (where the valve stem is located on most wheels). This particular offset positions the wheels outward from the tractor frame. The 6" x 6" wheels are centered and not offset, which positions the wheels closer to the frame of the tractor.
Using Aluminum Wheels On A Cub Cadet That's Equipped With External Brakes -
The drop-center section in the older 6" x 6" centered Douglas aluminum wheels will not clear external brakes on Cub Cadet garden tractors. If you are a weight-conscience puller, use wheel spacers that's 5/16" thickness made of either steel, aluminum or hard solid plastic to provide clearance for the external brakes and/or fenders. Drill holes in each spacer for the lug bolts and use longer (and hardened) bolts to mount the wheels. But the new style Douglas wheels now have a larger diameter drop-center section which allows their use on external disc brake Cub Cadet transaxles without the need for wheel spacers.
If you are worried about the excessive rotating mass weight of using STEEL spacers, the diameter of the spacers are so small, they will not effect the spinning weight which slow down tires. It's not the same as running large diameter wheel weights.
If you're using the older Douglas aluminum wheels with the deep drop-center section, be leery about using inner tubes. It'll be best to run the tires tubeless with silicone tire sealant applied around the rims and tire beads because with tubes, the deep drop-center in the wheel could stretch the rubber a little too much and cause the tube to blow out. But if you're using the newer style wheels with a larger drop-center, then it should be safe to run inner tubes.
If you have a set of 5" wide wheels (measured on the inside lip of the rim), then 8" wide of rolled metal will need to be added in the wheels to make them 13" wide. To do this, you will need to...
How to Weld the Flat Steel to the Drop-Center Section of the Wheel Halves:
If inner tubes are going to be used (which is highly recommended for welded-together wheels), grind the bead of weld smooth. But if they're going to be tubeless, grind off the "high spots" in the weld so the bead of the tire won't get damaged when mounting the tire on the wheel. NOTE: It's best to use inner tubes with welded-together wheels. Because if it's not a superior welding job, air can seep out through the bead of weld. And as with any tubeless tire, it's best to sand smooth the inside rims of the wheel, paint the inside for lasting protection and then apply "tire bead sealant" or silicone sealant on the inside of the rims to prevent air leakage. If the tire slowly looses air over time, try some SLIME Flat Tire Repair. This stuff works great!
How to Manually Dismount a Tire from the Wheel, the Old-Fashioned Way -
DISCLAIMER: The below is how most older automotive service stations did it many years ago before the pneumatic tire changing machine was invented. It's the old-fashioned and manual way to mount and dismount tires. As long as you're careful, take your time, it still works great, especially with steel wheels. But if you don't feel comfortable using a hammer next to an expensive aluminum wheel, spend a few bucks and take them to a reputable automotive tire repair shop and have them mount or dismount the tires with a pneumatic tire changing machine. And if the tires are mounted tubeless, have the tire tech person apply plenty of tire mounting lubricant/sealant on both the tire beads and wheel rims for a leakproof seal. Otherwise, it may leak.
How to Manually Mount the Tire on a Wheel, the Old-Fashioned Way -
Use a small manual bead breaker tool for smaller pneumatic tires, such as on the front of riding mowers, garden tractor or go-kart tires to remove the tire from the wheel. Google search for this tool or find it on eBay.
A bigger manual bead breaker and tire changer for changing rear garden tractor and automotive or light truck tires is available from Harbor Freight Tools. This high quality and handy shop tool works great for bigger tires. For more information on this quality tool from Harbor Freight Tools, it's item number 69686. (Take advantage of Harbor Freight's Money Saving Coupons, Coupon Codes, & Promo Codes, too!) or find it on eBay. For stability of this tool, fasten it to a concrete floor or on a wide, heavy steel plate with hardened bolts. YouTube video: How to Use a Manual Tire Changer - Harbor Freight - YouTube.
Patching a Pin Hole in an Inner Tube -
Purchase an inner tube patch kit. Before you smear the sealant on the tube, be sure to thoroughly clean the area first with cleaning solvent, and light the sealant with a match, let it burn for a few seconds, blow it out and then apply the patch. Use the roller to secure it in place. This is called hot patching. It holds the patch in place better.
When sharpening the tread on a pulling tire, sometimes the grinding disc will cut through the cords of the tire, creating a hole in the tread area of the tire. When this happens, all hope for the [expensive] tire is not lost. Simply have a tire repair shop install a boot, which is a large, thick patch, over the cut place on the inside of the tire and then install an inner tube in the tire. The purpose of "boot" repair is to fix a tear in the tread.
By the way - most people call wheels "rims." This is wrong! A rim is the outer part or edge of a wheel that holds the tire bead in place. And a "wheel" is the whole thing, including the rim and center section.
Webster's dictionary defines the word Rim as:
[Middle English, from Old English rima; akin to Old Norse rimi strip of land] First appeared 13th Century
1: the outer often curved or circular edge or border of something
2: the outer part of a wheel joined to the hub usually by spokes
3: a removable outer metal band on an automobile wheel to which the tire is attached.
Also see: Rim (wheel) (From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia)
Original Pit Bull Pulling Tire:
Free Pit Bull II tire sticker:
Pit Bull II tires are completely different from the Original. Improved
Suppliers of quality 12" diameter x 12" wide aluminum garden tractor pulling wheels are: Douglas Wheels, VM (both made in China) and Keizer Wheels (made in USA). Here's the similarities and differences between Douglas and VM wheels...
To make it easier to mount wheels on the rear of a garden tractor, there are three ways to install studs in the axle flanges:
Only on tractors with an internal brake:
Only on tractors with external disc brakes:
By installing studs to mount the wheels, ordinary, chrome-plated or stainless steel tapered-seat automotive lug nuts can be used to secure the wheels. To use lug nuts with steel garden tractor wheels, drill the mounting holes to 21/32" diameter, to make up the difference because of the larger taper that's on the automotive lug nuts. Any hardware store should carry a 21/32" drill bit. No other size bit will allow the lug nuts to seat properly, keep them tight and keep the wheel centered. But for aluminum wheels that have 1/2" mounting holes, drill the holes in the axle flanges larger and install a set of 1/2-20 (fine thread) bolts or studs and matching lug nuts to keep the wheels centered with the axles.
If a pulling tractor is going to run a 13" drawbar height with 26x12.00-12 tires, it must have wheelie bars properly installed, even if a club or pull site doesn't require them. Because a pulling tractor can flip back so quickly, without warning. The rear tires are rotating in one direction, which forces the tractor to want to rotate in the opposite direction. ("For every action, there's an equal and opposite reaction." - Newton's third law of motion.) So for safety sake, it's best to have wheelie bars installed for pulling regardless of the height of the drawbar or tire size. Wheelie bars are sometimes referred to as a "no-tip device." Wheelie bars are one of the easiest things to install on a pulling tractor. Only an idiot or someone with a death wish would pull a tractor without wheelie bars!
The pads or wheels for the ground contact needs to be of adequate size too, to prevent from sinking into soft earth. The pads need to be a minimum of 3" square x 1/8" thickness and wheels need to be a minimum of 4" diameter x 1" wide. Most pullers prefer to use wheels on the wheelie bars. They allow the tractor to gain an inch or two because they "roll." The pads on the other hand scrape on the ground and doesn't allow the tractor to get much further. And it's a good idea for stock tractors to run a 10" drawbar height anyway to prevent breaking a stock rear end.
For best stability of the tractor when the front end raises upward, most club's rules state that the bottom of the wheelie bar wheels or skid plates are supposed to a maximum of 5" from the ground. And the rear of the wheelie bar wheels or skid plates are supposed to be a minimum of 5" from the tread of the rear tires. Scroll down to see drawing for a better explanation. Check out this YouTube link: When it's important to have wheelie bars on a pulling tractor!
For safety reasons, make your wheelie bar bracket material rigid and not spring-loaded. They must be made of heavy wall (minimum 1/8" thickness) tubing and reinforced for strength. Also, bolt on the wheelie bar brackets and don't weld them to the frame. So they can be adjusted if necessary. See the pictures below Ê for what typical wheelie bar brackets look like:
NOTE: The wheelie bar brackets shown above were fabricated by the individual who owns each tractor.
And be aware when using flat aluminum wheelie bar braces. If the tractor were to stop suddenly on the track, and the sled bumps the rear of the tractor, the braces may bend to the side from the impact. And straightening them so they'll look original again is almost impossible. Therefore, we think it's better to use 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 1/8" wall square tubing as wheelie bars. When the sled bumps wheelie bars made of heavy wall square tubing, the whole rear of the tractor will move sideways slightly, and the wheelie bars won't suffer any damage.
|If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services
listed below Ê, or virtually any product
or service mentioned in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136
USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313
(shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays,
9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When
speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's
shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays.
Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest.
Please click here
to place an order.
Heavy Duty Plastic Wheelie Bar Wheels with smooth tread surface. Weighs less than 10 ounces each. Lighter in weight than all-aluminum wheels or steel wheels w/rubber tread, but just as strong. Dimensions: 5" tall x 1-3/8" wide x 1/2" center hole w/metal bushing. Our part # 84-1061.
How to set the wheelie bars for proper height so the front end won't be too high or too low when the front tires comes off the ground:
About Rear Safety Bumpers -
When a high speed garden tractor gets going down the track really good, and all of a sudden it's engine stalls and the tractor comes to a complete stop, what's going to happen? Chances are the sled will bump the rear of the tractor. Most sled operators can't put the brakes on in time or react fast enough because this can happen so quickly. Therefore, it's a good idea to install a couple of heavy-duty rear "bumpers" mounted on or incorporated into the wheelie bar brackets located a minimum of 6" above the wheels or pads. (Most club's rules and regulations will or should specify the location.) These bumpers will keep the sled from possibly getting up on top of the rear tires, causing damage to the tractor and/or injury to the driver. And the bumpers will prevent the pull chain from getting "wrapped" around one of the rear tires should the tractor go sideways to the extreme.
All tractor pullers, despite their age, needs to be educated on safety requirements and proper operation of a pulling tractor. Because many of them, when the tractor they're sitting on is hooked to the sled, will rev it up and give it all it's got, and they'll do whatever it takes to win. Some even get injured by doing so. They think it's a "no-holds-barred" contest.
We've seen a few garden tractor pullers would start to pull the sled (not our sled), when all of a sudden it would flip backwards and sometimes the puller would hit the back of their head on the front of the skid pan dirt shield because no wheelie bars were installed. They weren't seriously injured though. But it's scary to actually witness something like that! It's not a funny thing and certainly not part of the show!
We were at a pull several years ago [at a now defunct pulling club that was based in central Missouri], when an inexperienced person (adult) on a stock garden tractor caught on fire while pulling the sled [not our sled] down the track when all of a sudden the front of his tractor reared up and stood on end. What caused this is the tractor had 26-12.00x12 lug tires, about a 16" drawbar height and no wheelie bars. It also had a loose-fitting gas cap, a full tank of gas, which was positioned above the engine, and the battery, which was positioned between the gas tank and steering column, wasn't fastened down. When the tractor stood on end, the gas cap fell off, spilling gas onto the battery and onto the driver. Then the battery tipped back, shorting out the posts against the metal steering column support, igniting the fuel. It was a horrible sight! The flames were extinguished and the puller had to be air-lifted to the nearest hospital with a burn unit. He recovered from his injuries, but to this day he has scars on his chest and groin area to remind him of that horrible day at a tractor pull when he was just trying to have some fun with his friends. Not to mention the mental scars it left, too.
An official of that particular pull should have inspected that tractor and all the other tractors for safety, and not allow the puller to participate if the tractor wasn't legal or if an adjustment wasn't made.
Tell your friends and family about this story. And tell them to install sturdy wheelie bars, whether if they feel they need them or not, or if the rules require them or not. Remember - friends don't let friends pull without wheelie bars (and other safety equipment). And NEVER allow a young person to participate in a pulling event without wheelie bars (and of course, other safety equipment) properly installed and maintained.
We've been to a lot of garden tractor pulls over the years and noticed that some tractors leak fuel in places where a fuel leak shouldn't be. Therefore, we think that safety inspections needs to include checking the fuel lines for dry-rotting, cracks, fuel leaks, loose fittings, etc. (The tractors should have sturdy wheelie bars, too.) The inspectors needs to grab hold of the fuel line(s) with their hand and wiggle it around and slightly jerk on it to check for durability. This is important. Especially in a kid's class. Don't wait until an issue becomes a problem, and then turn into a catastrophe. If pullers would build their tractors right to begin with and maintain them properly, there wouldn't be any injuries, fires, or fear of a fire.
Front Wheel Bushings/Bearings and Wheelie Bar Wheels -
|If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed below Ê, or virtually any product or service mentioned in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival. E-mail: email@example.com. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. Please click here to place an order. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can always make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally drop off and/or pick up your engine, transaxle, tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long."|
(Zerk) Fittings. Use a 1/4-28 UNF (fine thread) hand tap to cut new
threads for installation of a new fitting.
Click here to learn
how to cut new threads, the professional way.
|Heavy duty, oil-impregnated
metal graphite flange wheel bushing. Universal fit. Dimensions: 3/4" i.d.
x 1-3/8" o.d. x 9/16" width (1/2" fits inside the wheel hub), flange o.d.
is 1-1/2". Oil impregnated means the hardened metal is porous to absorb
oil and grease so it will last longer. The oil acts as a cushion between
the bearing and shaft, adding resistance to wear. These last a long time
as long as they're lubricated with quality automotive lubricating grease
regularly. When installing, align the flat area on the bushing with the grease
fitting. If there is no grease (Zerk) fitting
in the hub of the wheel, then one will need to be installed. Replaces
Cub Cadet part # IH-384881-R94. Our part # 09-3305-3/4.
Heavy duty, oil-impregnated metal graphite flange wheel bushing for the IH Cub Cadet "Original" with 7/8" diameter front spindle shafts and 1-3/8" inside diameter wheels. Dimensions: 7/8" i.d. x 1-3/8" o.d. x 9/16" width (1/2" fits inside the wheel hub), flange o.d. is 1-1/2". Oil impregnated means the hardened metal is porous to absorb oil and grease so it will last longer. The oil acts as a cushion between the bushing and shaft, adding resistance to wear. These last a long time as long as they're lubricated with quality automotive lubricating grease once a year. When installing, align the flat area on the bushing with the grease fitting. If there is no grease (Zerk) fitting in the hub of the wheel, then one will need to be installed. No longer available from Cub Cadet. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-376188-R1. Our part # 09-3305-7/8.
Heavy duty, oil-impregnated metal graphite flanged wheel bushing for Cub Cadets with 1" diameter front spindle shafts and 1-3/8" inside diameter wheels/hubs. Dimensions: 1" i.d. x 1-3/8" o.d. x 1" wide x 1-1/2" o.d. flange. For Cub Cadet models 1000, 1100, 1200, 1250, 1450, 1650, 1210, 1282, 680, 1512, 882, 782-D, 1604, 1606, 580, 582, 1710, 682, 1711, 1712, 782, 784, 482, 1050, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812 with serial # 632502 and above. Oil impregnated means the hardened metal is porous to absorb oil and grease so it will last longer. The oil acts as a cushion between the bushing and shaft, adding resistance to wear. These last a long time as long as they're lubricated with quality automotive lubricating grease once a year. When installing, align the flat area on the bushing with the grease fitting. If there is no grease (Zerk) fitting in the hub of the wheel, then one will need to be installed. Our part # 09-3305-1.
Heavy Duty Flanged Wheel Bearings. Dimensions: 3/4" i.d. x 1-3/8" O.D. x 1/2" width (3/8" fits inside wheel hub) x 1-1/2" O.D. flange. Universal fit. Fits Cub Cadet, Wheel Horse, Sears Suburban and many other makes and models of garden tractors. Also ideal for small wheel mini-rods with 3/4" front spindle shafts. These have hardened, heated-treated steel races and roller balls, sealed on both sides and pre-packed with grease so they will last longer. These are NOT the low quality (soft metal) wheel bearings found in most hardware stores!
Heavy Duty Flanged Wheel Bearings. Dimensions: 1" i.d. x 2" O.D. x 9/16" width (1/2" fits inside wheel hub), flange O.D. is 2-1/8". Fits Cub Cadet models 1000, 1100, 1200, 1250, 1450, 1650, 1210, 1282, 680, 1512, 882, 782-D, 1604, 1606, 580, 582, 1710, 682, 1711, 1712, 782, 784, 482, 1050, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812 with serial # 632502 and above. Also fits Cub Cadet GT2000, GT2042, GT2050, GT2100, GT2148, GTX2154 and GTX2154LE with 1" spindles. And ideal for mini-rods with 1" front spindle shafts. These have hardened, heated-treated steel races and roller balls, sealed on both sides and pre-packed with grease so they will last longer.
Other sizes and styles of bearings and bushings are available. Please let me know what you need and I can probably get it for you at a reasonable price.
|NOTE: Other sizes and styles of bearings and bushings are available. Please let us know what you need and I can probably get it for you at a reasonable price.|
|Heavy Duty All Plastic Wheelie
Bar Wheels with smooth, rounded tread surface. Looks nice on the rear of
a competition pulling tractor. Weighs less than 10 ounces each. Lighter in
weight than all-aluminum wheels or steel wheels w/rubber tread, but just
as strong. Dimensions: 5" overall height x 1-5/16" wide x 5/8" center hole.
Our part # 11819.
|Universal Fit 5/16" Thickness
Cast Aluminum Wheel Spacers. Use to clear rear fenders and/or brake calipers
when using custom wide wheels.
| Wheel Stud Kit for IH-built
Cub Cadet with an internal (wet) brake. But will work on other makes
and models of garden tractors as well. 7/16-20 UNF (fine thread) x 1-1/2"
thread length. For use with no wheel spacers. These are grade 8 bolts that
act as studs when installed from the backside in the flanges. Along with
lug nuts (below Ê), these make for much
easier mounting of wheels on a garden tractor. NOTE: Not for tractors
with external brake disc welded to axle. An original, ingenious and
innovative concept by Brian Miller.
|Wheel Stud Kits for IH-built
Cub Cadets with an internal (wet) brake or external axle/disc
brakes, but will work on other makes and models of garden tractors as
well. Along with wheel spacers, these are required when wheels will not clear
the fenders and/or brake calipers. With lug nuts (below
Ê) installed, these make for easier mounting
of wheels with or without spacers on a garden tractor. Along with lug nuts
(below Ê), these make for easier mounting
of wheels with or without spacers on a garden tractor. Made of 125,000 PSI
hardened 7/16-20 UNF (fine thread) studs and secured from the backside in
the wheel flanges with jam nuts. Each set includes 10 studs and 10 jam nuts.
Replaces Cub Cadet part # 710-3027. An original, ingenious and innovative
concept by Brian Miller.
Accept no copycat parts!
|Automotive Wheel Lug Studs
for MTD-built Cub Cadet 30mm Fine Spline Axles. Convert OEM Cub Cadet 7/16-14
NC coarse thread studs to automotive 7/16-20 UNF fine thread studs so nice
looking chrome acorn lug nuts below Ê
can be used. OEM brake discs can be reused with these studs. Made of extremely
hardened steel. Install with a 1/2" impact wrench with grade 8 nut and flat
washer/spacer. Replaces Cub Cadet part # 710-0852.
|Lug Nuts for
Factory Steel Wheels and Aluminum Wheels. 7/16-20 UNF (fine thread) thread
size. Along with studs (above È), these
make for easier mounting of wheels on a garden tractor. Torque each to 50
ft. lbs. NOTE: The mounting holes in factory steel garden tractor wheels
will need to be drilled (enlarged) to 21/32" to allow for the taper on the
lug nuts to tighten properly and keep the wheel centered with the axle.
|If you wish to have your Kohler stock or pulling engine
tested on a
(dyno), please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old
Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am
to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When
speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's
shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays.
Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind
of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your
high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can always make the
long drive to A-1 Miller's shop
to personally drop off and/or pick up your engine, transaxle, tractor, etc.
"The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long."
A-1 Miller's Fully Computerized Stuska Water Brake Engine Dynamometer (Dyno) Service with DPM Data Logger Software!
For performance testing engines up to 200hp at speeds up to 12,000 RPM. The only engine dyno service in Missouri for Kohler pulling engines! Now set up and fully operational, customers can rent dyno time, fine tune and make adjustments or changes to their engines for maximum horsepower and torque, and print-out the results so their tractor(s) will be truly competitive on the track. NOTE: A fresh-built engine may not produce full power until it's broke-in. This is when the valves wear-in with the seats to completely seal in the compression. The rings will likely hold the compression, but the valves may leak slightly until they wear into the seats. This is normal for all engines and may take several hours or pulls to happen, then the valves will be able to hold full compression. Lots of pullers tell me after I've built their engines that it seems to pull stronger every time they pull it.
Engine Dyno Rental Fee: $30.00 per hour run time from the moment the engine is started. No setup fee for Cub Cadet engines with a 3- or 6-pin/stud clutch driver. An adapter may need to be needed or fabricated for other makes and models of engines. Only engines with the narrow base oil pan can be tested. Engines with the wide base (tall) oil pan cannot be tested at this time.
A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday , except holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends , except holidays. Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival. E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can always make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally drop off and/or pick up your engine, transaxle, tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long."
To place an order, please call the number below Ê or send an email with your name, complete and correct postal address and phone number and so I can figure the total with shipping cost and USPS Tracking. For payment options for parts ordered or services performed, or to make a donation to my websites, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge), Western Union Money Transfer, MoneyGram Money Transfers or Popmoney. (If a part for a specific purpose is special ordered, your debit/credit card may be charged for the full amount or as a deposit right after your order is placed; please do not send your debit/credit card information in email!) Or you can pay me through PayPal. (My PayPal account name is my email address. And be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment is for.) If sending a money order, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone number and a description of what the payment is for. My mailing address and phone number are below Ê . I'll make a note of your order, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send the parts to you as soon as I have everything in stock after I receive your payment.
IMPORTANT - When sending your part(s) to me for rebuilding or repair, package everything securely so the item(s) won't get damaged in shipping and please include a note in the box with your name, mailing address, phone number (in case I have any questions) and a description of what you want done. When shipping heavy parts, it's best to put a slightly smaller box inside a larger box, to double the strength and integrity of the package. Because the clumsy "gorillas" or incompetent and uncaring workers that work for certain delivery services mishandle the heavy packages and don't care. And when the work is completed, I'll either call or email you an invoice with the total including shipping & handling.
To figure the shipping cost, I weigh the package with the parts, then I go online to the USPS Postage Rate Calculator website. I type in the weight, my zip code and your zip code, then it shows me the prices for various ways to ship the package. I always choose US Postal Service because I believe that's the most fastest, economical and reliable method.
Shipping: (United States and it's territories)
To save you shipping charges, item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 13 oz. is sent by First Class Mail for a 2-6 day delivery. Most packaged item(s) weighing over 13 oz. is sent by US Priority Mail for a 2-3 day delivery. To save you even more on shipping heavy items, I always try to use the US Postal Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelope and boxes (if the item(s) can fit inside the envelope or boxes). Some heavy items weighing no more than 70 lbs. is sent by US Mail Parcel Post. Item(s) weighing over 70 lbs. is sent by FedEx Ground. Again, if you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can always make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally drop off and/or pick up your engine, transaxle, tractor, etc.
We Ship to Canada and Worldwide
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S. territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground or equivalent services.
To make a payment to me through PayPal, go to PayPal's secure website ( https://www.paypal.com/ ) and click on Send and Request -> Pay for goods or services. Type in my email address, or copy and paste this: email@example.com, the amount and follow the directions. Be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment is for. After you've finished, PayPal will send me an email notifying me that you have made a payment to me for the product(s) or services and amount entered. Then I go to their website and direct PayPal to deposit the money in my bank account. And I will send the parts to you as soon as I receive your payment. But I may have to order some of the parts if they're not in stock, which should take a few days. In that case, I will send you the parts as soon as they come in. PayPal protects your financial privacy and security. With PayPal, privacy is built in. It's a way for you to pay without exposing their financial information.
Coming Soon - Detailed Illustrated Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back Garden Tractor Pulling Sled, and a Motorized/Self-Propelled Garden Tractor Pulling Sled. FYI - My professionally-built motorized/self-propelled pulling sled, Track Master (click the picture to the right to see a larger image of my sled), is the only one I've ever built and I got it right the first time, with very few changes that had to be made to it. I guess I'm just one of those kind of guys that knows what he's doing. Pullers really like pulling my sled, too. They say it's the best sled they've ever pulled. (Not bragging, just stating the truth.) By the way - Track Master sled is engineered so well (by Brian Miller), other sled owners/builders have copied my well thought-out and proven design. Anyway, I have lots of work to do in my shop and I work on the sled plans in my spare time. As soon as my plans with an inventory list of parts to use are perfected, I'll post the update in my websites. Remember - Perfection takes time. If it's worth having, it's worth waiting for. Also, I plan to acquire a bigger shop and I may build high quality garden tractor pulling sleds in the future to offer for sale. Please call me at 573-256-0313 (shop) or 573-881-7229 (cell), or email me at firstname.lastname@example.org or email@example.com if you're interested. - Brian Miller
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