Concerning the COVID-19 situation:
A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises is still in business and offering all
the parts and services that's listed in this website. And being business
is overwhelming and that we are short-handed working in a small shop, it
may take longer than usual to process a big order.
Please
acknowledge your appreciation of the information in this website by making
a donation through PayPal or to pay for an order.
If you would like to purchase
any of the parts or services listed in this website, and/or for FREE professional
and honest technical assistance and support, please contact: A-1 Miller's
Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri)
65203-9136 USA | 
Phone:
1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice
message, please speak slowly and clearly).
Payment Options.
Please call Monday-Friday, except
holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later.
(When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I
stutter.)
E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.
When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly
with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to
the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine parts, entire
engine, transaxle, transmission, entire garden tractor, etc. for rebuilding
and/or repairing. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long."
(We're planning to relocate our business to other property with a bigger
and better shop so we can hire more help and provide many more high quality
parts and professional services.)
Solid State Electronic Ignition Module - | Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the parts or items in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page]
Replace the Points and Condenser in a Magneto Ignition System with
a Universal Solid State Electronic Ignition Module
Wiring Diagram and Installation Instructions for Universal Solid State Electronic Magneto Ignition Module are as follows:
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| NOTE: The alternative to using either
of the items below is to remove the ignition points and points pushrod, and
place the pushrod on a hard, flat surface, and use a hammer and sharp flat
cold chisel to lightly create knurled raised marks midway on the pushrod.
Then reinstall the pushrod in the engine block with the hammer. The knurling
will retain the pushrod in the hole.
Block-Off Plate to Cover Kohler Points Pushrod Hole. Use in Kohler
engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361,
KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582 when converting
from magneto to solid state ignition (above), Magnum solid state ignition,
or A-1 Miller's flywheel- or
crank-trigger electronic ignition (further
down in this website). Made of 1/8" thickness aluminum or steel. Apply RTV
silicone sealant to prevent oil leak and use OEM ignition points mounting
screws to secure in place. A-1 Miller's part. $4.00 each, plus shipping
& handling. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please
accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate
them acknowledging my intelligence.)
|
Conventional (Points and Condenser) Ignition Parts - | Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the parts or items in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page]
  Ignition Points for Kohler, Tecumseh and Clinton engines. Fits
Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331,
K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582
with magneto or battery ignition (use with mounting bracket). Also fits Tecumseh
cast iron block engine models HH80, HH100, HH120 with magneto or battery
ignition (use without mounting bracket); and Clinton engine models 414, 418,
420, 422 (use without mounting bracket). Also, use this part when converting
from Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition.
NOTE: If possible, apply clean lubricating grease on the hinge/pivot pin
before installing points so the hole will last longer. If it's dry, it'll
wear over time, effecting ignition timing, resulting in loss of engine
power. Or better yet, a magneto ignition system can be upgraded with
the virtually trouble- and maintenance-free
electronic transistorized ignition module
or battery-powered
flywheel-trigger/crank-trigger ignition
for a stronger and more stable spark, quicker starts, better idle and smoother
running engine.
  Hex Socket (Allen) Head Cap Screw w/split lock washer for Ignition
Points on single cylinder Kohler and cast iron block Tecumseh engines. Replaces
Phillips or OEM slotted head adjustment screw in points. This stainless steel
Allen head screw makes it much easier to precisely set the point gap and/or
ignition timing with a 9/64" hex (Allen) L-wrench so the points will not
slip out of adjustment in garden tractors with a
longitudinal engine, such as Cub Cadet, Economy Power King,
Ford, hydrostatic-drive John Deere, Pennsylvania Panzer, Meteor, Copar, etc.
No need to use this on garden tractors with a
transverse engine, such as older Bolens, John Deere, Sears
Suburban, Wheel Horse, etc. NOTE: The threads for the adjustment screw in
aftermarket points may need to be retapped with a 8-32 UNF hand tap. And
due to risk of stripping threads in the thin metal points bracket, do
not over-tighten this adjustment screw! An ingenious and innovative
concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of
this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.)
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|
High Quality Adjustable Chevy (GM) Ignition Points with Stiff Spring for Quick Reaction at High Engine RPMs. Includes locking/jam nut. Loosen nut with a 5/16" wrench, set ignition timing with adjustment screw (and timing light), and tighten nut to prevent adjusting screw from vibrating out of adjustment due to high engine RPM. For use on Kohler competition pulling engines only. An original and ingenious idea by Brian Miller. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
   Phillips and Socket
(Allen) Head screws with split lock washers for mounting of ignition points
and points cover on Kohler engines. These type of screws make for easier
fastening of points and points cover to engine block in hard-to-get places
than the OEM slotted head screws on garden tractors with a
transverse engine, such as older Bolens, belt-drive John
Deere, Sears Suburban, Wheel Horse, etc. Each screw replaces Kohler part
# X-131-1-S. Dimensions: 10-24 UNC x 3/8" thread length. An ingenious
and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat
products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.)
TIP: When installing a screw
to keep it from falling out of the screwdriver, for ordinary steel screws,
temporarily magnetize the screwdriver by rubbing a magnet along the length
of the shank, or for stainless steel screws, apply a dab of grease in the
head of the screw.
|
  Ignition Points Pushrods. Fits Kohler K-series engine models
K141, K160/K161 and K181. NOTE: Used OEM pushrod to be no less than 1.265"
in length and .184" in diameter. Measure accurately to determine if need
replacing.
 Ignition Points Pushrods. Fits Kohler K-series engine models
K90/K91, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, K482, K532 and K582. NOTE: Used
OEM pushrod to be no less than 1.500" in length and .184" in diameter. Measure
accurately to determine if need replacing.
|
|
| Points Pushrod Seals. Each fits
Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331,
K341, K361, K482, K532 and K582 with a 3/16" diameter points pushrod. Each
prevents seepage of crankcase oil from contaminating points contacts. Please
choose to use one or the other below Ê,
no need to use both.
|
|
 Oil-Embedded
Bronze Sleeve Bushing to Repair Worn 3/16" Ignition Points Pushrod Hole in
Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582. To install, the points pushrod
hole will need to be precision-machined (enlarged) exactly to .250" (1/4")
for a press-fit installation. Dimensions: 3/16" I.D. x 1/4" O.D. x 5/8" length.
|
|
 Ignition Points
Cover Gasket. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, K241,
K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series
II, K482, K532 and K582. Protects points contacts from dust, dirt and water
contamination. Also, use this part when converting from Breakerless Ignition
to battery-powered points/condenser ignition. OEM Kohler part # 52 041 11-S.
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|
 Ignition Points
Cover/Wire Grommet. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181,
K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19
Series II, K482, K532 and K582. Prevents dust and dirt from contaminating
points contacts, and protects points wire from rubbing/chafing against points
cover or use this part when converting from Breakerless Ignition to
battery-powered points/condenser ignition. FYI:
RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant will serve the same
purpose.
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|
"Assemble It Yourself" Points-to-Coil Ignition Wire Kits.
Fits Kohler engines with battery-powered ignition, models K90/K91, K141,
K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series
II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582. Replace OEM wire with
frayed/cracked insulation and/or broken connector(s) to prevent a short circuit
and/or engine misfire. Each below requires use of crimp-type electrical pliers.
Assembled Points-to-Coil Ignition Wire Kits. Fits Kohler engines with battery-powered ignition, models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582. Replace OEM wire with frayed/cracked insulation and/or broken connector(s) to prevent a short circuit and/or engine misfire.
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|
 Points Cover for
Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331,
K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582.
Protects points contacts from dust, dirt and water contamination. Also, use
this part when converting from Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered
points/condenser ignition. Made of 16 gauge stamped steel. Points cover
for Kohler engines with push-button kill switch for magneto ignition is no
longer available.
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|
  Low Capacity Ignition
Condensers/Capacitors.
Each fits certain Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301,
K321 and K341 with magneto ignition. Including Tecumseh cast iron block engine
models HH80, HH100, HH120 with magneto ignition, Onan model P, and various
other makes and models of small engines with a self-energizing magneto ignition
coil. Each can also be used with Kohler engine models KT17, KT17 Series II,
KT19, KT19 Series II. Or each can be used with a compact
epoxy-encapsulated 12 volt coil in a custom-made battery-powered ignition
system. 11/32" mounting hole. NOTE: Virtually any magneto ignition system
can be converted to the electronic transistorized
ignition module, or if possible, upgrade/convert the engine with
battery-powered flywheel-trigger electronic
ignition.
NOTE: If an engine idles well, but runs erratically when revved up, like it hits and misses, pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs a new condenser/capacitor. And always install a condenser/capacitor with the wire facing downward so rain water and/or when washing off engine, water will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it. With water inside the condenser, this will also allow it to idle well, but cause it to run erratically when revved up. Click or tap here to hear what an engine with a faulty condenser/capacitor sounds like. Or better yet, upgrade/convert the engine with an A-1 Miller's maintenance-free and weather-proof battery-powered flywheel-trigger electronic ignition system for a stronger and more stable spark, quicker starts, smoother idle and overall better running engine. |
|
 High Quality Copper
Core/Non-Resistor Spark Plugs for Kohler engine models K90/K91, most flathead
Briggs & Stratton and flathead Tecumseh engines. Copper core spark plugs
allows the ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. Set gap at .025"
with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system,
.035" with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with a
high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 3/8" thread
reach, flat washer seat. Replaces Briggs and Stratton part # 802592S.
 High Quality Copper Core/Non-Resistor
Spark Plugs for Kohler twin-cylinder flathead engine models MV16, KT17, KT17
Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Copper core
spark plugs allows the ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. For
best engine performance, set gap at .025" with a self-energizing magneto
or solid state electronic ignition system, .035" with a full size battery-powered
ignition coil, and .060" with a high-output/performance battery-powered coil.
14mm threads x 15/32" thread reach, tapered seat.
 High Quality Copper Core/Non-Resistor
Spark Plugs for most makes and models of OHV aluminum block single- and
twin-cylinder air-cooled small engines. Copper core spark plugs allows the
ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. For best engine performance,
set gap at .025" with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic
ignition system, .035" with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and
.060" with a high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x
5/8" thread reach, flat washer seat.
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|
 Spark Plug Grommet.
Fits Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) engine models K181AQS, M8, K241AQS, K301AQS,
K321AQS and K341AQS. Fastens directly on spark plug in air duct shield (sheet
metal) over cylinder head to help maintain cool air over the cylinder head.
Made of neoprene rubber.
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|
  Indexing
Washers for Flat Seat Spark Plugs with 14mm Threads. Position spark plug
in combustion chamber with open/exposed gap facing the center of the piston
in flathead engines for more power and torque when using tractor under extreme
conditions, such as heavy mowing, garden plowing, pushing/blowing snow, or
for competition pulling. To know exactly where the open gap is when the spark
plug is installed, use a permanent ink felt tip marker
(Sharpie,
Magic Marker,
Marks-A-Lot) to place a mark (line) on the porcelain in-line
with the open gap at the tip of the spark plug as shown in the picture to
the right. And on flat seat spark plugs, leave the original
compression washer on the spark plug and add the indexing washer(s) as needed
until the open gap face the piston. Available in the following
thicknesses: .005", .010" and .015". Made of hardened steel.
.75¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
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|
  Grounding-Type Safety Break-Away / Kill Switch with Pull-Pin.
Use for competition pulling only; mount on rear of tractor. When the pin
pulled, it grounds the ignition coil from producing spark. If using with
a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition systems: Connect
one wire to the chassis ground, and connect the other wire to the
points/condenser wire or to the kill terminal on the solid state electronic
ignition coil/module. If using with a battery-powered ignition system: Connect
one wire to the chassis ground, and connect the other wire to the coil negative
(–) terminal. NOTE: With battery-powered ignition, as soon as pin
is pulled (engine will die), manually shut off ignition switch right away
to prevent possible damage to the ignition coil and electronic ignition module
if equipped with crank-trigger
ignition. This type of switch does not disable power to the electric
fuel pump on a pulling tractor. The electric
fuel pump must be shut-off manually by the ignition switch or an OFF-ON
toggle switch or [security] key switch.
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|
   High Quality Universal
Self-Grounding OFF/ON Switches for use with Self-Energizing Magneto Ignition,
Solid State Ignition, OEM Solid State Ignition (SSI) for Tecumseh's Cast
Iron Block Engines, or with OEM Kohler Breakerless Ignition. These switches
can be used with virtually any small engine installed on lawn and garden
equipment, garden tillers, go-karts, chainsaws, portable air compressors,
portable generators/welders, portable water pumps, etc. with a recoil or
push-button starter switch to crank the engine. Very durable, tough switches.
Switches can be mounted in metal (grounded) pedestal, dashboard, instrument
panel, engine control panel, flywheel shroud, etc. Single blade on switch
connects to points wire or solid state electronic module wire/terminal to
kill the engine.
|
|
 High Quality Universal OFF-ON Switches
for Battery-Powered Points/Condenser Ignition or Battery-Powered
Flywheel/Crank-Trigger Electronic Ignition. Each can be mounted in
metal pedestal, dashboard, instrument panel, engine control panel, flywheel
shroud, etc. Very durable, tough switches. Can be used on virtually anything
that has a battery-powered ignition or electrical system, such as: lawn and
garden equipment, garden tractors, go-karts, pulling tractors, mini-rods,
hot-rods, farm tractors, automobiles, etc.
[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
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|
 High
Quality Universal Push Button Switches. Each can be mounted in pedestal,
dashboard, instrument panel, engine control panel, flywheel shroud, etc.
|
|
 High Quality Universal 3-Position OFF-IGNITION-START Key Switch
for use with Self-Energizing Magneto Ignition, Solid State Ignition, OEM
Solid State Ignition (SSI) for Tecumseh's Cast Iron Block Engines, or with
OEM Kohler Breakerless Ignition. Identification of terminals: B
= Battery (+); G = Ground (terminal is grounded to body of switch);
L = Lights (use a separate OFF-ON switch connected to this terminal
to power an electric PTO clutch); M = Magneto (Ignition); S
= Solenoid (small terminal). Key positions: OFF position makes contact with
M+G; IGNITION position makes contact with B+L; START position makes contact
with B+S. Each terminal identified for correct wiring connections. IMPORTANT:
Use with a starter solenoid/relay to crank the engine to prevent burning
out internal contacts in switch. NOTE: If engine is equipped with an
alternator/stator charging system, the center terminal on the voltage
rectifier/regulator connects to the battery (+) terminal. If using an
ammeter/amp gauge, connect the gauge/meter
to the battery positive (+) post, then to the B terminal on the switch. Trace
the wires on your tractor/equipment to see if they match the terminals on
this switch. If they don't match, the plug-in spade connectors/wires can
be rearranged in the plastic connector housing to match the corresponding
terminals on the switch. To do this, use a small flat blade screwdriver to
depress the locking tab/tang so the plug-in connector can be pulled out from
the plastic connector housing. Bend the locking tab/tang up slightly before
reinserting it in the plastic connector so it will be secured in place. Or
use #250
slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals
when connecting wires to switch. Requires 5/8" diameter mounting hole.
|
|
 High Quality Universal 3-Position OFF-IGNITION-START Key Switch
for use with Battery-Powered Points/Condenser Ignition or Battery-Powered
Flywheel/Crank-Trigger Aftermarket Replacement Electronic Ignition.
Identification of terminals are: I = Ignition; A = Auxiliary
(electrical accessories, such as lights, electric PTO clutch, etc.); R
= Rectifier; B = Battery (+); S = Solenoid (small terminal).
Key positions: OFF position makes no contact with any of the other terminals;
IGNITION position makes contact with B+I+R+A; START position makes contact
with B+I+R+S. Each terminal identified for correct wiring connections. IMPORTANT:
Must be used with a starter solenoid to crank the engine to prevent burning
out internal contacts in switch. If using an ammeter/amp gauge, connect the
gauge/meter to the battery positive (+) post, then to the B terminal on the
switch. Can be used for various makes and models of garden tractors and small
engine equipment with battery-powered ignition. To use this universal switch
in an IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractor model 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102,
104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147,
149, 169, 154, 184, 185 or LO BOY, use I, B and S
terminals. Trace the wires on your tractor/equipment to see if they match
the terminals on this switch. If they don't match, the plug-in spade
connectors/wires can be rearranged in the plastic connector housing to match
the corresponding terminals on the switch. To do this, use a small flat blade
screwdriver to depress the locking tab/tang so the plug-in connector can
be pulled out from the plastic connector housing. Bend the locking tab/tang
up slightly before reinserting it in the plastic connector so it will be
secured in place. Or use #250
slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals
when connecting wires to switch. Requires 9/16" diameter mounting hole.
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|
 Battery Ignition
Key Switch. Fits IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73,
86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127,
128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 154, 184, 185 or LO BOY. Can also be used for other
makes and models of garden tractors and various small engine equipment with
battery-powered ignition. Must be used with a starter solenoid to crank the
engine to prevent burning out internal contacts in switch.
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|
 Universal Wiring
Harness with Plastic Housing Connector. Fits universal OFF-IGNITION-START
key switches above and other key switches with same terminal configuration.
Replace damaged wiring and connector, use as new wiring harness on a custom-made
project, or use this part when converting from Breakerless Ignition to
battery-powered points/condenser ignition. 18" length color-coded wires for
easy identification. $13.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
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|
 OFF/ON
Main/Master Disconnect/Cutoff Switch with Removable Key. Use this 100
amp capacity switch to disable all power throughout the equipment to prevent
sabotage an/or an accidental electrical short that could burn up the wiring
system or entire equipment. Useful when equipment is not used for a period
of time to prevent a slow drain on the battery, prevent short circuits when
performing electrical service on equipment, or for a pulling tractor to prevent
accidental starts or to prevent sabotage at the pull sites by disgruntled
pullers. Connect between battery negative (–) post and equipment ground.
Copper terminals with brass hex nuts for improved continuity. Comes with
protective weather cap and two removable nylon key locks. Mounting hardware
not included. $19.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
[Return to previous paragraph, section
or website] |
|
| Self-Energizing Solid State Electronic Ignition Coils
with molded-in Module. FYI - A self-energizing solid state electronic
ignition coil/module require a self-grounding OFF-ON switch to short circuit
the primary windings in the coil to kill the spark and shut off the engine.
They do not need 12 volts of power because this will instantly burn up the
coil. And save the spark plug wire off a defective coil. It has a metal core
conductor, and with a battery coil terminal and rubber boot installed, it
can be used in a battery-powered ignition system.
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|
 Self-Energizing
Solid State Electronic Ignition Coil with molded-in Magnetron™ Module. Fits
Briggs and Stratton horizontal and vertical shaft opposed (flathead) twin
cylinder engines. NOTE: Use with new Autolite or Champion non-resistor/copper
core spark plugs of the correct type gapped at .015" for longer coil life.
FYI - A self-energizing solid state electronic ignition coil/module require
a self-grounding OFF-ON switch to short circuit the primary windings in the
coil to kill the spark and shut off the engine. They do not need 12 volts
of power because this will instantly burn up the coil. And save the spark
plug wire off a defective coil. It has a metal core conductor, and with a
battery coil terminal and rubber boot installed, it can be used in a
battery-powered ignition system.
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|
 Self-Energizing
Magneto Ignition Coil. Fits Kohler engine model K91 with magneto ignition.
Will not fit model K90 with magneto ignition. Spark plug wire (not included)
inserts into coil. Reuse OEM spark plug wire. NOTE: Usually, the point gap
on these engines sets at .020", but sometimes it will need to be set as close
as .015" just to produce a spark. But this coil should produce a stronger
spark when used with the Universal Solid State
Electronic Ignition Module. The short wire on the coil is for ground,
the longer wire connects to the ignition points and condenser/capacitor or
Universal Solid State Electronic Ignition
Module, and may need to be made longer depending on your application.
Or the engine can be converted
to battery-powered ignition. Dimensions: 1.700" O.D. x 1.080" length
x 1/2" x 1/2" square hole.
How
magneto coils produce a spark.
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|
 Self-Energizing
Magneto Ignition Coil. Fits various Kohler engine models K141, K161 and K181
with coil mounted on U-shaped ignition stator on bearing plate underneath
flywheel with magnet rotor on crankshaft. Will also fit various larger cast
iron block Clinton engines with coil mounted on cylinder, above flywheel.
For longevity of this coil, use a non-resistor/copper core spark plug [Autolite
or Champion] gapped at .025". Spark plug wire not included. Reuse OEM spark
plug wire. This coil should produce a stronger spark when used with the
Universal Solid State Electronic Ignition
Module. Or the engine can be
converted to battery-powered
ignition. Dimensions: 1.750" diameter x 1.450" length x .505" x .505"
square hole.
NOTE: The magneto coil wrapped with varnish-coated paper (Kohler part # 210293), and the ignition stator assembly and ring shown above È are Discontinued from Kohler. If you have an engine without these parts and you can't locate them from any source, your only option is to convert the engine to the battery-powered ignition system. A small motorcycle battery or a rechargeable 12 volt sealed lead acid (SLA) battery with a minimum 4AH (Amp Hour) rating is required to power the ignition, and with no charging system, a 120 volt automatic battery charger will need to be used to keep the battery fully charged when the tractor or equipment is not in use so the ignition will produce a strong spark. Avoid using a high-output/performance coil because these draw more amps/power from the battery. |
|
  Self-Energizing Magneto Ignition Coils. Fits certain Kohler
K-series engine models K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331 and K341 with points,
condenser/capacitor and coil under flywheel. Common with Kohler engines mounted
to a generator or welder. Also fits smaller aluminum block Tecumseh engines
with points, condenser/capacitor and coil under flywheel. Set spark plug
gap at .025" with each coil. This coil should produce a stronger spark when
used with the Universal Solid State Electronic
Ignition Module. Or engine could be
converted to the more reliable
battery-powered ignition system.
|
|
| Ignition Coils below for
Kohler engine models K141, K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341 and K361, and
other various makes and models of small engines (Tecumseh, etc.) with a 12
volt ignition ignition system. Each can be used with ignition points and
condenser or A-1 Miller's custom-made
crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic
ignition systems. IMPORTANT: Most failures
of a battery-powered ignition coils and/or electronic ignition control modules
are caused by either the use of suppression/carbon-core spark plug wire(s),
resistor-type spark plug(s), or overcharging of the electrical system due
to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery.
Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an
ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging
system. Also, any coil will burn
up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than
a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly
happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a
master disconnect switch with a removable
key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system.
Also, the coil could burn up if the
charging system continually overcharge due to a defective voltage
rectifier/regulator or a defective [automotive]
battery.
 Used, Tested and in excellent
condition. High Energy Full Size 12 Volt Canister-Type Oil-Filled Ignition
Coil w/3.0 or 4.0 ohm internal primary resistor and mounting bracket. 20,000
volts output. Use with medium capacity condenser. For longevity of the coil,
use a metal core coil-to-spark plug wire and a non-resistor/copper core spark
plug [Autolite or Champion] gapped at .035". Replace defective coil or use
this part when converting from Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered
points/condenser ignition. Comes with a 90 day limited warranty.
$15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
New Aftermarket Black Casing High Energy Full Size 12 Volt Canister-Type Oil-Filled Ignition Coil w/3.0 ohm internal primary resistor and mounting bracket. 20,000 volts output. Use with medium capacity condenser. For longevity of the coil, use a metal core coil-to-spark plug wire and a non-resistor/copper core spark plug [Autolite or Champion] gapped at .035". Replace defective coil or use this part when converting from Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition. Replaces Kohler part # 41 519 21-S. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling. New Aftermarket Aluminum Casing High Energy Full Size 12 Volt Canister-Type Oil-Filled Ignition Coil w/3.0 ohm internal primary resistor and mounting bracket. 20,000 volts output. Use with medium capacity condenser. For longevity of the coil, use a metal core coil-to-spark plug wire and a non-resistor/copper core spark plug [Autolite or Champion] gapped at .035". Also, use this part when converting from Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition. Replaces Kohler part # 41 519 21-S. $35.00 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Kohler Coil, part # 41 519 21-S. Replace defective coil or use this part when converting from Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition. Replaces John Deere part # AM38411 and Tecumseh part # 32080. $88.61 each, plus shipping & handling. New High-Output/Performance Bosch Blue Standard/Full Size 12 Volt Canister-Type Ignition Coil w/3.0 ohm internal primary resistor and mounting bracket. 30,000 volts output. Vibration-Resistant Epoxy-Filled. For longevity of the coil, use a metal core coil-to-spark plug wire and a non-resistor/copper core spark plug [Autolite or Champion] gapped at .060". Use with ignition points and two medium capacity condensers/capacitors or one high capacity/performance ignition condenser/capacitor for full coil saturation and a strong spark so engine will rev up to full speed, or can be used with ignition points and condenser or A-1 Miller's custom-made crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition kits. Set spark plug gap at .060" with this coil. This genuine Bosch blue coil is epoxy filled with a steel casing. All epoxy filled or molded epoxy coils will hold up to severe vibrations, can be mounted in any position and will not leak oil (because there is no oil). $60.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
|
 New
1.6 ohm Ballast Resistor for use with any 12 volt ignition coil not having
an internal resistor (above È) to prevent
excessive burning of points contacts, or use with the Chrysler / Dodge /
Plymouth electronic ignition control module/unit, or connect with coil having
a minimum 1.4 ohm internal primary resistor to prevent burning up the
Dynatek Dyna S electronic ignition control
modules. Install between the coil positive (+) terminal and wire coming from
the ignition switch to the coil. This will allow the points to possibly last
the life of the engine. NOTE: Ignition resistors with a higher
ohm value are known
as "Point Savers." The higher the ohm resistance in an ignition coil or a
ballast resistor has, the longer the ignition points will last (as long as
the points are installed clean, and doesn't become contaminated with dust,
oil, water, etc.). Any 12 volt ignition coil with an 3+ ohm internal primary
resistor connected to a minimum 1.6 ohm ballast resistor when used in a points
and condenser/capacitor ignition system will allow the points to possibly
last the life of the engine. Because the increased resistance allows a very
low current/voltage to pass through the contacts in the points. Also, a
suppression/carbon-core coil-to-spark plug wire and resistor type spark plug
shouldn't be used in this system due to overheating of the ignition coil.
Therefore, it's best that a high temperature metal core conductor coil-to-spark
plug wire and non-resistor/copper core spark plug be used. The ignition system
will still produce a strong spark because an average small engine requires
only a fraction of voltage from the coil. This is best to used with general
lawn and garden, snow removal, etc., and not for competitive pulling. Therefore,
if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an
ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging
system. $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
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High Energy 4.0 Ohm 12 Volt Ignition Coils (below) for Kohler
twin cylinder engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II.
Can also be used on Kohler twin cylinder engine models K482, K532, K582,
K660/K662, Onan twin cylinder engines with a fabricated bracket. Each coil
below produce a strong spark, and can be used with points and condenser or
A-1 Miller's custom-made
flywheel-trigger or
crank-trigger electronic ignition kits.
For longevity of each coil, use only non-resistor/copper core spark plugs
[Autolite or Champion] gapped at .025" each. Each can withstand high engine
vibrations. 20,000 volts output. IMPORTANT: Most
failures of a battery-powered ignition coils and/or electronic ignition control
modules are caused by either the use of suppression/carbon-core spark plug
wire(s), resistor-type spark plug(s), or overcharging of the electrical system
due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive]
battery. Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an
ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging
system. Also, any coil will burn
up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than
a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly
happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a
master disconnect switch with a removable
key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system.
Also, the coil could burn up if the
charging system continually overcharge due to a defective voltage
rectifier/regulator or a defective [automotive]
battery.
High Energy, Epoxy-Encapsulated, 12 Volt Ignition Coils (below) for Kohler twin cylinder engine models K482, K532, K582 and K660/K662. Can also be used on Kohler twin cylinder engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II or Onan twin cylinder engines with a fabricated bracket. Either coil below can be used with points and condenser or A-1 Miller's custom-made flywheel-trigger or crank-trigger electronic ignition kits. Long terminal/stud connects to ignition switch, short terminal/stud connects to points and a low capacity condenser, or electronic ignition module. For longevity of the coil, use metal core spark plug wires and non-resistor/copper core spark plugs [Autolite or Champion] with the gap set at .025" each. NOTE: Coil mounting bracket not included - discontinued from Kohler; if needed. And there is no positive (+) or negative (–) connections on the two small terminals. They can be connected either way. IMPORTANT: Most failures of a battery-powered ignition coils and/or electronic ignition control modules are caused by either the use of suppression/carbon-core spark plug wire(s), resistor-type spark plug(s), or overcharging of the electrical system due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery. Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging system. Also, any coil will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system. Also, the coil could burn up if the charging system continually overcharge due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or a defective [automotive] battery.
Metal Core Conductor Spark Plug Wires for Kohler engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532, K582, K660/K662, or Onan twin cylinder engines. 14" and 18" length each.
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|
   High Quality High
Performance Copper or Metal Core 7mm Spark Plug Wire Assemblies. Universal
design for many applications. Suitable for general lawn & garden equipment
or competition garden tractor pulling. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161,
K181, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series
II, K482, K532, K582 and K660/K662 (with wires cut to desired length) and
other makes and models of small engines with a battery-powered ignition system.
Don't be fooled by the dark color, these wires have a metal core that provide
100% voltage to the spark plug at all times! Copper or metal wire delivers
maximum energy with zero ohm resistance to the spark plug, which allows the
ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. (Most OEM automotive or
brightly-colored coil-to-spark plug wires have a suppression/carbon core
that deliver about 40%-50% voltage to the spark plug at peak demand, which
is at wide open throttle engine operation.) Solid brass terminals for maximum
conductivity and corrosion resistance. Snug-fitting quality rubber boots
keep out dirt and moisture for reliable engine start up. Engineered for
reliability and long life. Spring-lock terminals insure positive and secure
connection through the toughest conditions and multiple spark plug changes.
Please specify if you need the boot for a 5/8"
(most high-output/performance coils) or 3/4" (most standard-output coils)
diameter coil tower.
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| Complete
Battery-Powered Ignition Conversion Kits - When Kohler's
OEM magneto or Breakerless Ignition fails, the engine can be converted to
a battery-powered ignition system. Battery-powered ignition systems last
longer, produce a stronger spark, and when a part goes bad, it doesn't cost
much to replace. It's a reliable, simple design and there's no guesswork
about it. FYI: Battery-powered ignition conversion kits are intended mainly
for various older engines when the OEM magneto or Breakerless Ignition no
longer produce a spark, replacement parts are not available, are very expensive
or cost prohibitive. (Sometimes one must improvise when certain parts are
obsolete.) Also, the most hassle when using battery-powered ignition without
a charging system integrated with the engine to recharge the battery is the
use of a remote battery charger. And eventually a new battery will need to
be purchased, because they only last a few years. For a battery to power
the ignition, a small, lightweight and rechargeable
12 volt sealed lead acid (SLA) battery with a minimum 4Ah
(Amp Hour) rating or a small
motorcycle battery can be used.
FYI - Kohler's Breakerless Ignition and Tecumseh's (cast iron engine) Solid State Ignition (SSI) systems use a [security] key switch that's also made for a self-energizing magneto or magneto-type solid state ignition system. Unlike the key switch for a battery-powered ignition system, the Breakerless Ignition is self-energizing, and to kill the engine, the key switch grounds out or shorts the [low voltage] circuit between the energizing coil and ignition module. And the battery-powered key switch opens the circuit to kill the engine. So with the battery-powered points and condenser ignition system (along with a 12 volt coil), you will need to use a battery-powered key switch, or an OFF-ON toggle switch or [security] key switch to power the ignition and a momentary push button switch to crank the engine could be used instead. If swapping out the OEM Breakerless Ignition, SSI, magneto or solid state ignition key switch for a battery-powered ignition key switch, the wire connectors in the wiring harness plug will need to be rearranged to match the terminals on the key switch to power the ignition, crank the engine and run other electrical accessories. I've done this before on some of my customer's garden tractors and it works great. Click or tap here for battery-powered ignition wiring diagrams. |
|
 Several years
ago, an out of town customer brought his John Deere model 110 to our shop
for repairs. This tractor has a Kohler engine model K181 with magneto ignition
and a 10 amp alternator charging system. (The ignition coil and charging
coils are on the same stator plate under the flywheel.) My customer told
me that he had another reputable small engine repair shop in his hometown
install a new spark plug, points, condenser and an entirely new stator assembly,
but they could not get the engine to rev up. Anyway, I put the tractor on
the platform table that
I built to make it easier to work on. The engine would start right up and
idle well, but failed to rev up. It would just die out when throttled up.
So I cleaned the entire carburetor, including clearing out anything that
may have been lodged in the main jet, tried a new Autolite 295 copper core
spark plug gapped at .025", cleaned and reset the points gap, tried another
new condenser,  removed the new
stator assembly and reinstalled the original stator assembly, installed a
new OEM Kohler magneto ignition coil on the stator, tried a different flywheel,
but with all of these things, one after the other, the engine would still
die out above idle, no matter what. Then I connected a temporary battery-powered
ignition system with jumper wires just to find if the engine would rev up
to full throttle, and it did, with no problems! Then after all of this, I
found that the charging system would not generate the full 10 amps to recharge
the battery. It would only generate about 3 amps. (The tractor had a
factory-installed amp gauge.) The voltage rectifier/regulator was in good
condition too, but there was nothing I could do to fix this.
So after some thoughtful consideration, I came to the conclusion that the OEM Kohler part # 237876 magneto ignition/charging system stator assembly is obviously a notorious, bad design. Although this system is still available new from Kohler, Kohler discontinued installing this on certain engines only after a short time. (Apparently, for an obvious reason.) Anyway, I decided (actually, I had no choice because I'm so determined) to convert the engine to the more reliable battery-powered ignition system. But being this JD 110 has a confined engine compartment with limited space and with the air cleaner assembly that fastens directly to the carburetor with no upward intake elbow, there is no place to mount a full size canister-type ignition coil. So I fastened a new compact epoxy-encapsulated 12 volt ignition coil on the carburetor side of the flywheel shroud. I removed the shroud, located where to drill two 7/32" holes to mount the coil, and tack-welded a couple of 10-24 UNC or 10-32 UNF nuts inside the shroud. Then I used a couple of spacers for the coil's lamination, and fastened the coil to the nuts through the shroud with a couple of matching 10-24 UNC or 10-32 UNF screws with split lock washers. (The coil looked nice on the engine, like it's factory installed.) I could have tack-welded the head of the screws on the inside of the flywheel shroud instead, and fastened the coil with a couple of nuts on the screws from the outside. Either way would've worked fine. Anyway, then I replaced the OEM JD 110 magneto-type off-ignition-start key switch with a new universal battery-type off-ignition-start key switch. I traced each wire from the OEM key switch and rearranged the slide-on spade connectors in the plastic connector housing on the switch to match the terminals on the battery-type ignition key switch and connected the "I" terminal on the switch to the (+) terminal on the coil so the ignition system will work. I reused the same ignition points and low capacity condenser with the compact coil. The low capacity/magneto ignition condenser worked great with the compact battery ignition coil! And I gapped the spark plug at .030" for this compact coil. When I finished, the engine started right up, idled smoothly, and revved up to full throttle with no hesitation or misfire. When my customer came to pick up his tractor, I told him everything I did to it, and being the charging system is weak, he will need to use a 120 volt portable battery charger to keep the battery fully charged. If you have a similar ignition problem like this and if you're interested, I offer all the parts, including a new compact epoxy-encapsulated 12 volt ignition coil kit, that can be used to convert the magneto ignition to battery-powered ignition for your tractor. See the complete ignition conversion kit(s) below. I can also convert your tractor from a faulty magneto ignition to the more reliable battery-powered ignition if you don't mind bringing your tractor to my shop. - Brian Miller Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the parts or items in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page] |
|
| Convert virtually
any single cylinder, air-cooled cast iron or various aluminum block small
gas engine, such as Kohler, Tecumseh, Briggs & Stratton, Clinton, etc.,
with a failed magneto ignition system to the battery-powered ignition
system. NOTE: Must use a universal automotive
off/ignition/start key switch, or a push-button switch to crank the engine
with an OFF-ON toggle switch or [security] key switch to power this ignition.
Reuse same type of spark plug and existing ignition points (if in good
condition), but set the point gap at .020" or set ignition timing at 20º
BTDC. See ignition kits and wiring diagram below
Ê.
High Quality Ignition Kit to Convert from Kohler Magneto Ignition to the More Reliable Battery-Powered Ignition System for a Confined Engine Compartment with Limited Space and no place to mount a full size canister-type coil. A fully charged 12 volt battery is required for this ignition system. Designed for Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331 and K341. When ordering, please indicate model of engine. New parts include: high energy compact epoxy-encapsulated 12 volt ignition coil w/3.5 ohm internal primary resistor and integrated metal core spark plug wire, with mounting spacers/screws/nuts; low capacity condenser/capacitor; ignition points; points cover gasket; 9" length "assemble-it-yourself" 16 gauge coil-to-points wire w/terminals (reuse original points cover/wire grommet); and new spark plug. To install terminal on spark plug wire, make sure the pointed prong on the terminal penetrates the insulation of the wire, or strip a short part of the insulation and bend over the wire to make full connect with the terminal, and use a spark plug wire crimping tool, then apply automotive grease on the spark plug wire and inside boot so it will slide easily on the wire and over the terminal. And if using this kit on an engine with a recoil starter, as for the battery cables, being I have no idea how long they need to be, you will need to fabricate these yourself. When ordering, please specify model of engine for correct type of spark plug. Dimensions of coil - overall length of lamination: 3-1/2" x diameter of coil body: 1-1/4" x widest width of coil body: 1-1/2" x mounting hole spacing: 3-1/8" x length of spark plug wire: 13-1/2". To install coil, drill two 7/32" holes outside of flywheel shroud next to carburetor or above starter gear and fasten with two supplied spacers and screws with matching nuts welded to inside of flywheel shroud. (When fastened to flywheel shroud, coil will look factory-installed.) Use #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors when connecting wires to this coil terminals. Set spark plug gap at .030" with this system. IMPORTANT - Either a 12 volt battery-ignition OFF-ON-START key switch, a momentary push button switch (to crank the engine if it is equipped with an electric starter) with an OFF-ON toggle switch or OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition) MUST be used with this type of ignition system. Go here for choice of switches. The original magneto coil can be removed from the stator. It will not be needed. If the stator has charging coils, leave them installed and connected so they can recharge the battery and power electrical accessories. IMPORTANT - All coils will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle switch to power the ignition system.
High Quality Ignition Kit to Convert from Kohler Magneto Ignition to the More Reliable Battery-Powered Ignition System for an Unconfined Engine Compartment with Unlimited Space to mount a full size canister-type coil. A fully charged 12 volt battery is required for this ignition system. Designed for Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331 and K341. When ordering, please indicate model of engine. New parts include: full size canister-type 12 volt ignition coil w/3.0 ohm internal primary resistor and mounting bracket, 11" length metal core conductor spark plug wire, medium capacity condenser/capacitor, ignition points, points cover gasket, 12" length "assemble-it-yourself" 16 gauge coil-to-points wire w/terminals (reuse original points cover/wire grommet), and new spark plug (please specify model of engine when ordering for correct type of spark plug). Set spark plug gap at .035" with this system. And if using this kit on an engine with a recoil starter, as for the battery cables, being I have no idea how long they need to be, you will need to fabricate these yourself. IMPORTANT - Either an OFF-ON-START battery-ignition key switch or an OFF-ON toggle switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition) and a momentary push button switch (to crank the engine if it is equipped with an electric starter) MUST be used with this type of ignition system. Go here for choice of switches. And the original magneto coil can be removed from the stator. It will not be needed. If the stator has charging coils, leave them installed and connected so they can recharge the battery and power electrical accessories. IMPORTANT - All coils will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle switch to power the ignition system.
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| New points, condensers/capacitors, coils and spark plugs for other makes and models of engines are also available. Please call or email A-1 Miller's for your needs. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the parts or items in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page] | |
Get That
Old, Antique Small Engine Running Again with 21st Century
Technology Using 100% Reliable Digital Electronic Ignition, Even When New
Placement Parts Are Obsolete or Cost-Prohibited!
Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in
purchasing any of the parts or items in this website.
[Top of Page]
This is the era of modern wonders, where everything is transistorized, digitized and miniaturized. Yet even today, many garden tractor pullers still use breaker point ignitions on their garden pulling tractors. For other people, the frustration of attempting to keep a breaker point-fired tractor in peak running condition has been enough of a reason to join the electronic era. Breaker point systems do have some positives, though. Points are cheap and somewhat easy to install. And many people are comfortable with installing their own points. The bad side of using points is, besides the points contacts burning, pitting and wearing out, if or when the point gap gets too narrow, the ignition timing can get retarded, and when it gets too wide, the timing will become too advanced.
When the timing is retarded, the engine may be difficult to start, and when does start, it may not idle well, and it'll lack sufficient power. Also, with retarded timing, all of the fuel in the combustion chamber will not be burned. Part of the raw fuel will exit out of the exhaust, while the rest will remain in the chamber combustion and cling to the cylinder wall, causing the lubricating oil (from the crankcase) to become diluted. When this happens, "cylinder wash down" will result. Cylinder wash down is when the gas dilutes the thin coat of oil on the cylinder wall, and the piston rings will no longer be adequately lubricated, causing them to wear excessively, resulting in a smoky engine overtime. Cylinder wash down can also happen to a diesel engine when the fuel injectors are "turned up" or fuel delivery is increased so the engine will produce more power. (It will also blow a lot more black smoke out the exhaust.)
But when the ignition timing is too advanced, this will cause the engine to run too hot, which will likely cause the piston to swell, allowing it to make metal to metal contact against the cylinder wall, causing excessive wear. And the rings will lose their expansion against the cylinder wall as well. Eventually, due to the lose-fitting piston in the cylinder, the engine will create a rattling sound and start smoking out the exhaust, and it will ultimately need to be rebuilt.
If installed correctly, when the ignition is triggered by the flywheel, this stabilizes the ignition timing, so you won't ever have to worry about it changing. The engine will produce more power and you will have more confidence that the engine will last longer. So for the utmost precision ignition timing and maintenance-free convenience, flywheel-trigger electronic ignition is the way to go! These high performance ignition systems produce a stable and very strong spark. They will allow the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly, rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or misfire and produce more power.
Tired of cleaning, changing or constantly readjusting the ignition points, and replacing the condenser? Well, upgrade/convert the engine with an A-1 Miller's maintenance-free and weather-proof 100% digitized flywheel-trigger electronic ignition system for a stronger and more stable spark, quicker starts, smoother idle and overall better running engine! Shock and moisture resistant, and all it takes is a few simple hand tools to install. In my opinion, getting rid of the points and condenser/capacitor have been the best advance ever in engine technology. FYI - I've designed and sold many various custom-made electronic ignition systems to customers for the past several years and haven't received one complaint about the performance of their engine. Because I use technology that I learned from experiences with my competitive competition pulling tractors (engines) to help factory stock lawn & garden engines perform better. And as a matter of fact, other people have emailed or called me to complain to me about my competitor's replacement electronic ignition systems for Tecumseh engines. They said their technical assistance to resolve the problem was of no help. No joke. Apparently, my competitors haven't quite figured it out yet.
FYI - Kohler's Breakerless Ignition and Tecumseh's (cast iron engine) Solid State Ignition (SSI) systems use a key switch that's also made for a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system. Unlike the key switch for a battery-powered ignition system, the Breakerless Ignition is self-energizing, and to kill the engine, the key switch grounds out or shorts the [low voltage] circuit between the energizing coil and ignition module. And the battery-powered key switch opens the circuit to kill the engine. So with the battery-powered points and condenser ignition system (along with a 12 volt coil), you will need to use a battery-powered key switch, or an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or [security] key switch to power the ignition and a momentary push button switch to crank the engine could be used instead. If swapping out the OEM Breakerless Ignition, SSI, magneto or solid state ignition key switch for a battery-powered ignition key switch, the wire connectors in the wiring harness plug will need to be rearranged to match the terminals on the key switch to power the ignition, crank the engine and run other electrical accessories. I've done this before on some of my customer's garden tractors and it works great. Click or tap here for battery-powered ignition wiring diagrams.
Solid State Electronic Ignition Module - | Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the parts or items in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page]
Replace the Points and Condenser in a Magneto Ignition System with
a Universal Solid State Electronic Ignition Module
Wiring Diagram and Installation Instructions for Universal Solid State Electronic Magneto Ignition Module are as follows:
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| NOTE: The alternative to using either
of the items below is to remove the ignition points and points pushrod, and
place the pushrod on a hard, flat surface, and use a hammer and sharp flat
cold chisel to lightly create knurled raised marks midway on the pushrod.
Then reinstall the pushrod in the engine block with the hammer. The knurling
will retain the pushrod in the hole.
Block-Off Plate to Cover Kohler Points Pushrod Hole. Use in Kohler
engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361,
KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582 when converting
from magneto to solid state ignition (above), Magnum solid state ignition,
or A-1 Miller's flywheel- or
crank-trigger electronic ignition (further
down in this website). Made of 1/8" thickness aluminum or steel. Apply RTV
silicone sealant to prevent oil leak and use OEM ignition points mounting
screws to secure in place. A-1 Miller's part. $4.00 each, plus shipping
& handling. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please
accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate
them acknowledging my intelligence.)
|
  Convert the
Points/Condenser Ignition System on a Kohler engine model K141, K160/K161,
K181, K241, K301 or K321 with the 8" Flywheel and Starter/Generator
to a Maintenance-Free Flywheel-Triggered Electronic Ignition System.
This ignition system works
flawlessly and may outlast the life of the engine. This ignition system operates
with 12 volts DC negative ground. This high performance ignition system have
been thoroughly tested under extreme conditions, and produces a stable and
very strong spark, even with a stock ignition coil (the 30,000 volt Bosch
blue coil is not needed with this system), allowing the engine to start quickly,
idle smoothly and rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or misfire to produce
more power. To prevent burning up the PerTronix Ignitor module, it MUST be
used with a coil having a minimum of 3.0 ohm resistance. The PerTronix Ignitor
module/sensor electronic ignition sends more energy to the coil, which delivers
twice the voltage to the spark plug, increasing horsepower, engine efficiency
and spark plug life. Hall Effect integrated circuit means no points to burn,
and no moving parts to wear out. Epoxy molding makes the module impervious
to dirt, oil, grease and moisture. Stable timing - no need for any adjustments.
This simple and reliable ignition system and the ignition timing will always
be set at the factory recommended 20º BTDC, or wherever you set it.
This system can be used on ordinary lawn & garden engines or for competition
pulling engines (if rules permit). This ignition system may outlast the life
of the engine. This revolutionizes the ignition system for older cast iron
block Kohler engines with the starter/generator and 8" flywheel! Most small
engine battery ignition coils have a 3.0 ohm internal primary resistor. But
test your coil just to make sure!
Click or tap here
to learn how to test the ohm resistance in a coil. An ingenious and
innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products
of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.)
IMPORTANT: Most failures of a battery-powered ignition coils and/or electronic ignition control modules are caused by either the use of suppression/carbon-core spark plug wire(s), resistor-type spark plug(s), or overcharging of the electrical system due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery. Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging system. Also, any coil will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system. Also, the coil could burn up if the charging system continually overcharge due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or a defective [automotive] battery.
Directions to Install This Kit -
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If a Kohler flywheel has no projection (hump) or OEM protruding bolt head for Breakerless Ignition, but does have a 3/4" wide area between the fins and ring gear (as shown in the pictures above È), or a billet steel flywheel, to use a magnetic pickup coil, 3-wire inductive (detects iron/steel) proximity sensor, a small, short steel Phillips or button head socket (Allen) Head screw and a minimum 1/4" length aluminum spacer secured with a split lock washer or high strength liquid threadlocker (Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent) can be used as the signal detection for the flywheel-trigger electronic ignition. A steel dowel pin or knurled steel pin could be used instead of a screw or spiral pin, but because of exerted centrifugal force, the screw would be more secure due to its thread retention. FYI - Store a container of liquid threadlocker or Super Glue upright and not laying flat. The capped tip will not dry out and clog when stored upright.
The curvature or dome shaped heads of button- and Phillips-head screws makes them ideal for use on a trigger disc or flywheel. Spark occurs at the leading (high side) edge of the hump or screw, and not in the center of the hump or screw. When the magnetic pickup coil or cube-shaped proximity sensor is at the leading edge of the hump and when the S mark on the flywheel is aligned with the raised mark on the bearing plate, it is at this point the timing is at 20º BTDC. But if the flywheel has the 3/4" wide area, but no projection or hump", with the magnetic pickup coil or cube-shaped proximity sensor installed on the bearing plate and the 20º BTDC mark on the flywheel aligned with the raised mark on the bearing plate.
When using an inductive proximity sensor, being proximity sensors detect a farther distance (up to 3/16") than a magnetic pickup coil, install a 3/4" length steel screw with a 1/4" length aluminum spacer (to retain flywheel balance). This will extend the detectable target 1/4" above the surface of the flywheel to prevent an out of time spark occurrence by part of the flywheel itself. Or if using a non-magnetic pickup coil, 3-wire hall effect proximity sensor or a hall effect PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor, a small ring magnet fastened by a small screw can be used to create a rotating magnet detection target. The head of the screw will become magnetized.
An 8-32 UNC (coarse thread) and 10-32 UNF (fine thread) x 1/2" length screws with a split lock washer (and small magnet) only weighs about 1/10 of an ounce or 3 grams, so this will not make the flywheel significantly noticeably or dangerously out of balance. But if you're concerned about the flywheel being out of balance with the target screw/bolt, pin or screw w/ring magnet installed, the flywheel can be static balanced by weighing the flywheel and screw/bolt, pin or screw w/ring magnet separately on a precision scale, make a note of the exact weight of each item, and either install a stainless steel screw of the same exact weight as the trigger screw and magnet on the opposite side of the flywheel (180º apart), or drill a couple of shallow holes into the flywheel next to or beside the installed target screw/bolt, pin or screw w/ring magnet to put the flywheel back in balance. Make sure the flywheel is perfectly clean of dirt and debris, too. Actually, it's best to have the flywheel with the target screw/bolt, pin or screw w/ring magnet installed dynamically precision spin-balanced on a automotive balancing machine. Again, make sure the flywheel is perfectly clean of dirt and debris.
And for the ignition timing to be set at 20º BTDC, with the
S mark on the flywheel and raised line on the bearing plate
aligned, the screw will need to be located at 2-3/8" when using a magnetic
pickup coil or proximity sensor. This setup can be adapted to a Kohler engine
with the flywheel that has the starter/generator and gear starter alike.
Or it can be applied to an engine with a steel flywheel for competition pulling.
And the mounting holes in the angled bracket for the magnetic pickup coil
can be elongated for precise adjustment/setting of the timing.
If there's already a projection (hump) or
OEM protruding bolt head on the flywheel, then there's no need to modify
the flywheel for this conversion or upgrade. If they're not already present,
new 10-24 UNC (coarse thread) threads will need to be
drilled
and tapped in the two raised bosses
in the bearing plate to mount the bracket for the sensor's bracket.
An original, ingenious, thoroughly researched and innovative concept invented
by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this for use on a small engine.
Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate
them acknowledging my intelligence.)
Information About Converting from Kohler's Breakerless Ignition to
Battery-Powered Points/Condenser Ignition:
The single wire that comes from the stator under
the flywheel for the Kohler Trigger Module or Tecumseh Solid State Ignition
Module generates about 250 volts (serious) while the engine is running at
full governed speed. Do not touch this terminal with one bare hand and the
engine with your other hand while the engine is running! It is not needed
for any of A-1 Miller's custom-made crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic
ignition systems. So snip off this wire or tape up the terminal securely
to prevent a short circuit or risk of electrocution. And there
is a tiny brass cup/expansion plug in the points pushrod hole. This plug
MUST be removed for using the pushrod when converting to points ignition.
To prevent damage to certain moving parts inside the engine and possible
eventual engine failure, do not punch this plug into the crankcase! It may
NOT drain out with the oil when the oil is changed. To remove this plug,
carefully and gently drill a 3/32" pilot hole through the plug, then use
a #6
self-tapping drywall screw (a small
ordinary self-tapping screw may not work as well)
with Vise-Grips or a small
crowbar or
pry bar to pull the plug out of the hole. Because the
self-tapping drywall screw by itself may not be able to bore a hole through
the plug without pushing it deeper into the drilled hole. And do not force
the drill bit into the plug or it could fall inside the crankcase! And a
3/16" drill bit or hand reamer may need to be used to clean out any debris
from the pushrod hole. After the points is installed, and with the piston
positioned at TDC on the compression stroke, set the point gap at .020".
Or better yet, set the ignition timing at 20º BTDC,
and reuse the same type of spark plug gapped at .035".
Custom-Made Electronic Ignition Kits (below) for Converting to Flywheel-Trigger Ignition for Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321, K341, K361 that came with points/condenser ignition or with Breakerless Ignition. Do away with the old fashioned points and condenser ignition, or defective and cost-prohibitive Breakerless Ignition components, and convert your engine to the reliability, dependability and durability of flywheel-trigger ignition! NOTE: Engine must have the large bearing plate with two mounting bosses to install the triggering device and 9" flywheel with 3/4" wide area with the OEM projection (hump), OEM protruding bolt head, or install a small screw/bolt (so the sensor can detect it). Must also use an OFF-ON toggle switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; for ignition) and momentary push-button switch (to crank the engine) for ignition system below Ê. With this ignition setup, the ignition timing will be set at 20º BTDC, and reuse same type of spark plug, but set gap at .035" for a stronger spark. IMPORTANT - On the Breakerless Ignition, the wire that comes from the stator under the flywheel generates about 250 volts (serious) while the engine is running at full governed speed. Do not touch this wire (terminal) with one bare hand and the engine with your other hand while the engine is running! This wire is not required with any of A-1 Miller's custom-made flywheel-trigger electronic ignition systems. So snip off this wire or tape up the terminal to prevent a short circuit or electrocution.
 
IMPORTANT: Most failures of a battery-powered ignition coils and/or electronic ignition control modules are caused by either the use of suppression/carbon-core spark plug wire(s), resistor-type spark plug(s), or overcharging of the electrical system due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery. Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging system. Also, any coil will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system. Also, the coil could burn up if the charging system continually overcharge due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or a defective [automotive] battery. List of Parts in Kit Include:
Option #2 - Complete Kit to Convert from [a failed] OEM Kohler Breakerless Ignition to the More Reliable Battery-Powered Points and Condenser Ignition System with a Full Size Canister-Type 12 Volt Ignition Coil. Designed for Kohler engine models K181, K241, K301, K321 that originally came with Breakerless Ignition. New parts include: 12 volt 3.0 ohm full size canister-type ignition coil w/mounting bracket, metal core conductor spark plug wire, medium capacity condenser/capacitor, ignition points, stainless steel points pushrod, points cover, points cover gasket, four 10-24 UNC Phillips head screws w/lock washers, Autolite 216 or Champion 844 (H10C) spark plug, and 12" cut-to-length 16 gauge coil-to-points wire w/terminals and points cover/wire grommet. IMPORTANT - Due to length of points-to-coil wire and length of coil-to-spark plug wire, please indicate if original coil is mounted next to carburetor or above starter gear. Set spark plug gap at .035" with this system. NOTE - Being this ignition system operates with 12 volts DC negative ground, the OEM key switch for Breakerless Ignition will not work with any battery-powered ignition systems. The switch used with Breakerless Ignition is actually a magneto ignition switch, which when the engine is shut-down, it grounds the self-energizing wire connected to the ignition. And battery ignition requires a switch that disconnects the coil from the power source (battery). So with this ignition system, you will need either an OFF-ON-START battery-ignition key switch, or an OFF-ON toggle switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition) and a momentary push button switch (to crank the engine). Go here for choice of switches. IMPORTANT: Most failures of a battery-powered ignition coils and/or electronic ignition control modules are caused by either the use of suppression/carbon-core spark plug wire(s), resistor-type spark plug(s), or overcharging of the electrical system due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery. Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging system. Also, any coil will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system. Also, the coil could burn up if the charging system continually overcharge due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or a defective [automotive] battery.
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3/16" Plug to
Replace Kohler Points Pushrod. Use in Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141,
K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, K482, K532 and K582 when
converting from magneto to solid state ignition (above), Magnum solid state
ignition, A-1 Miller's flywheel- or
crank-trigger electronic ignition (further
down in this website). Install with a medium size hammer; fits very tight.
OEM Briggs & Stratton part #'s 231143, 692882. $6.00 each, plus
shipping & handling.
Block-Off Plate to Cover Kohler Points Pushrod Hole. Use in Kohler
engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361,
KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582 when converting
from magneto to solid state ignition (above), Magnum solid state ignition,
or A-1 Miller's flywheel- or
crank-trigger electronic ignition (further
down in this website). Made of 1/8" thickness aluminum or steel. Apply RTV
silicone sealant to prevent oil leak and use OEM ignition points mounting
screws to secure in place. A-1 Miller's part. $4.00 each, plus shipping
& handling. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please
accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate
them acknowledging my intelligence.)
[Return to previous paragraph, section
or website]
A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Replacement Electronic Ignition System for Cast Iron Block Tecumseh Engines
IMPORTANT: Most failures of a battery-powered ignition coils and/or electronic ignition control modules are caused by either the use of suppression/carbon-core spark plug wire(s), resistor-type spark plug(s), or overcharging of the electrical system due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery. Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging system. Also, any coil will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system. Also, the coil could burn up if the charging system continually overcharge due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or a defective [automotive] battery. Replacement Tecumseh Electronic Ignition Kit with PerTronix Ignitor. (Fires off the short pin in the flywheel; remove the long pin. It will not be needed and will interfere with proper operation of the ignition system.) This ignition system operates with 12 volts DC negative ground. Includes: new PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor and new high quality, high energy compact epoxy-encapsulated 12 volt ignition coil w/integrated metal core spark plug wire, both fastened to an aluminum mounting plate, new Autolite 295 or Champion J8C spark plug, new momentary push-button switch (to crank the engine; optional) and new OFF-ON toggle switch/flip switch or [security] key switch (to power the ignition; optional). Installation Instructions for Replacement Tecumseh Electronic Ignition System above:
IMPORTANT: Most failures of a battery-powered ignition coils and/or electronic ignition control modules are caused by either the use of suppression/carbon-core spark plug wire(s), resistor-type spark plug(s), or overcharging of the electrical system due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery. Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging system. Also, any coil will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system. Also, the coil could burn up if the charging system continually overcharge due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or a defective [automotive] battery.
(Posted 8/24/20) I've been receiving several emails and phone calls from people who purchased another type of custom-made electronic ignition system from another person online for their cast iron block Tecumseh engine. And if you're experiencing problems with this type of system, you will need to complain to the person you purchased it from. Because being I'm not familiar with another person's custom-made ignition system, the advice I give you to get your engine running right may not be 100% accurate. It'll be like a Chevrolet car dealer/repair shop trying to tell someone how to fix their Ford vehicle. FYI - I thoroughly test every custom-made electronic ignition system that I offer in my websites to sure they work flawlessly. - Brian Miller |
If you would like to purchase
any of the parts or services listed in this website, and/or for FREE professional
and honest technical assistance and support, please contact: A-1 Miller's
Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri)
65203-9136 USA | Phone:
1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice
message, please speak slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except
holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later.
(When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1
Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends,
except holidays. Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your
arrival. E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine parts, entire
engine, transaxle, transmission, entire garden tractor, etc. for rebuilding
and/or repairing. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long."
(We're planning to relocate our business to other property with a bigger
and better shop so we can hire more help and provide many more high quality
parts and professional services.)
A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit for Kohler opposed twin cylinder engine models KT17 Series II and KT19 Series II.
A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition
Conversion Kit for Kohler opposed twin cylinder engine models KT17 first
design, KT17 Series II, KT19 first design and KT19 Series II. This ignition
system is very reliable, works flawlessly and may outlast the life of the
engine. Replaces points and condenser. Ignition points can be removed and
the points pushrod hole can be plugged with a short self-tapping 1/4" bolt,
Allen set screw or
clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant. The ignition system
listed below works excellent with the OEM Kohler twin cylinder ignition coil
to produce a very strong spark.
INSTRUCTIONS: 1. On the first design
engines, use the upper #1 cylinder (right side when facing flywheel) retaining
stud/nut to mount the bracket for the ignition module. Or on the Series II
engines, use the two bosses on the #1 cylinder to mount the bracket for the
ignition module. Bosses must be
drilled and tapped
to accept 1/4-20 UNC x 1" mounting bolts (drill only 3/4" deep; do not
drill all the way through the cylinder wall!). 2. A specific location
on the edge of the flywheel (see the picture to the right) must be
drilled and tapped
to accept the 6-32 UNC (coarse thread) detectable target screw
w/magnet/cushioning/isolator rubber washer. Use a
Sharpie metallic silver
permanent marker to locate
and install the screw w/magnet in the flywheel in align with center of the
ignition module when the S mark on the flywheel is in exact
alignment with the roll pin on the cylinder (23º BTDC). Most importantly,
make sure the clearance between the screw (w/magnet) in the flywheel is set
at .010" from the module. I try to make these as precise as I can,
but a slight adjustment of the clearance may be needed.
Do not allow the screw to make
contact with the module because it could get damaged. The
module/sensor is activated by the South pole of the magnet, so do not remove
the magnet from the screw. And use caution when handling rare earth/neodymium
magnets. They are very brittle and can break easily when snapped onto something
or when the screw is overtightened. Secure the screw threads with
high strength liquid threadlocker
(Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent), and tighten
the screw just until the rubber washer begin to bulge. FYI - Store a container
of liquid threadlocker or Super Glue upright and not laying flat. The capped
tip will not dry out and clog when stored upright. An ingenious and innovative
concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of
this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.)
Ignition Upgrade Kit for Kohler engine models KT17 Series II or KT19 Series
II for General Yard & Garden Work, or Stock Competition Pulling Engines.
This ignition system works flawlessly and may outlast the life of the
engine. This ignition system operates off the flywheel end of the crankshaft.
Use this on the KT17 Series II or KT19 Series II engines to replace the ignition
points. This ignition system may outlast the life of the engine. This high
performance ignition system have been thoroughly tested under extreme conditions,
and produces a stable and very strong spark, even with the stock OEM ignition
coil, allowing the engine to start quickly, idle smoothly and rev up to full
RPM with no hesitation or misfire to produce more power. To prevent burning
up the PerTronix Ignitor module, it MUST be used with a coil having a minimum
of 3.0 ohm resistance. This revolutionizes the ignition system for the opposed
twin cylinder Kohler engines! Use this setup for durability instead of points
and condenser. Use with the OEM off/ignition/start key switch and ignition
coil. Simple two wire hook-up; RED wire
on module/sensor connects to 12 volt ignition switch (battery positive (+)
post), and BLACK wire on module/sensor connects to coil negative (–)
terminal. This ignition system is grounded through the engine. Kit includes
PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor w/mounting bracket and hardware, small
magnet/screw/cushioning washer and a 1/4-28 UNF Allen set screw to plug the
points pushrod hole. Use a 1/4-28 UNF hand tap to cut 1/4" deep threads in
the points pushrod hole, apply 150± PSI air pressure in the oil fill
tube to blow the metal cuttings out of the points pushrod hole while cutting
the threads, then install the set screw. PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor
is triggered by a small magnet fastened in a specific place on edge of flywheel.
Detectable Target Neodymium/Rare
Earth Ring Magnet, Rubber Cushioning/Isolator Washer and Steel 6-32 UNC Retaining
Screw for Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition. Each weighs 1/10 oz. / 6
grams. Fasten magnet w/screw and cushioning/isolator washer on the edge of
aluminum or steel disc, or flywheel when using a non-magnetic pickup coil,
3-wire hall effect proximity sensor or hall effect PerTronix Ignitor
module/sensor. Head of screw will become magnetized. NOTE:
The module/sensor is activated by
the South pole of the magnet, so do not remove the magnet from the screw.
And use caution when handling rare earth/neodymium magnets. They are
very brittle and can break easily when snapped onto something or when the
screw is overtightened. Secure the screw threads with
high strength liquid threadlocker
(Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent), and tighten
the screw just until the rubber washer begin to bulge. FYI - Store a container
of liquid threadlocker or Super Glue upright and not laying flat. The capped
tip will not dry out and clog when stored upright.
Drill and tap
6-32 UNC threads in the flywheel and install the magnet with the supplied
rubber cushioning/isolator washer and screw where the two drawn lines intersect.
Use the OEM ignition coil with metal core spark plug wires and copper core
spark plugs gapped at .025" each. FYI - The module is diode-protected, and
will NOT burn up if the wires are connected in reverse with power supplied.
But the
module will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few
minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening
and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a
master disconnect switch with a removable
key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system.
An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller.
Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate
them acknowledging my intelligence.)
Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the parts or items in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Return to previous paragraph, section or website] [Top of Page]
Be
Ahead of the Competition with 21st Century Technology Using 100% Reliable
Digital Electronic Ignition!
Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in
purchasing any of the parts or items in this website.
[Top of Page]
FYI - I can install a Custom-Made crank-trigger electronic ignition system and/or rewire your lawn & garden tractor, equipment or garden pulling tractor so all the electrical accessories will work and the engine will start quickly every time. I have the knowledge, skills, all the tools and parts necessary to perform a quality job. I've rewired many customer's lawn & garden tractor/equipment or garden pulling tractor with great results. If you're interested, Click or tap here for my phone numbers, address and directions to A-1 Miller's shop. - Brian Miller
A new way to revolutionize the ignition system on virtually any small gas engine! Virtually trouble- and maintenance-free, and water-proof. These ignition modules/sensors is a small, lightweight, compact and completely self-contained electronic ignition system built with the latest state-of-the-art engineering with the use of microelectronics. Fits entirely on the engine block; no ignition box and additional wiring to clutter the engine compartment because the electronic ignition control module and pickup coil/sensor are contained in the same sealed casing. The Dynatek Dyna S module/sensor produce a stable and very strong spark. They will allow the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly, rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or misfire and produce more power.
The Dynatek Dyna S module/sensor operates on 12-1/2 to 15 volts negative ground, and requires an ignition coil with a minimum 3.0 ohm internal primary resistor to prevent from burning up the module. Using a coil with less than total of 3.0 ohm of primary resistance for a long period of time will cause the module to overheat and the engine may misfire until it cools down, or the module/sensor might fail prematurely. A metal conductor coil-to-spark plug wire, and non-resistor/copper core spark plug should be used. If the voltage drops below the minimum requirement for either module/sensor, the engine may idle well, but not rev up, or the engine may run erratic. Either module/sensor can be used with a standard-output/stock or high-output/performance ignition coil, as long as the coil has a 3.0 ohm internal primary resistor, or a ballast resistor is connected that totals 3.0 ohm of resistance. These module/sensors should not be used with magneto-type ignition coils, being magneto coils have a 1.0 ohm internal primary resistor. A metal core conductor coil-to-spark plug wire can be used with either module/sensor.
These maintenance-free crank-trigger electronic ignition setups have been thoroughly tested and proven very reliable for general lawn and work, and all classes of single and twin cylinder competition pulling engines. One module/sensor is needed for an opposed twin cylinder engine, and two modules/sensors spaced precisely at 90º apart are required for V-twin engines. These are the same ignition used by professional pullers everywhere. Reliable at high RPMs, the Dynatek Dyna S or PerTronix Ignitor modules provides unlimited RPM. They will allow the ignition system to operate at the speed of electricity (which can be anywhere from about 50% to 99% of the speed of light, depending upon the quality of the electronic components and wiring connections).
Spark occurs when the magnet embedded in an aluminum locking set screw collar, which is much like an automotive reluctor ring, that's fastened on the crankshaft's PTO end passes the module/sensor. These sensors/modules packs a lot of punch and allows the ignition system operate at 100% efficiency for a stronger spark. When wired correctly, it's normal for the flywheel- and crank-trigger ignition systems to make a spark when first powered up. And if it makes a spark as the sensor passes the metal target object, then the ignition system is working as it should.
Dynatek Dyna S Maintenance-Free Crank-Trigger Electronic Ignition Installation Instructions -
Our universal flat mounting plate can be adapted for use on various makes and models of one or two cylinder (twin opposing cylinders) engines by drilling new mounting holes. And being there are so many different bolt patterns on the PTO end of Kohler and other makes and models of engines, these are not a simple "one kit fits all" bolt-on ignition kit. Therefore, customer will need to locate and drill holes in the mounting plate in alignment with the bolt holes on the PTO end of the engine block. If there are no bolt hole(s) on the PTO end of the block, they will need to be drilled and tapped. Minimum of 1/4" bolts can be used. Locate and drill (machine) slotted adjustment holes in the mounting plate, fasten plate to PTO end of engine block. And then drill and cut 4-40 NC threads in the mounting plate for positioning/clearance of the module/sensor clearance to the locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet. Additional spacing of modules/sensor may be required so magnet will be aligned with the center of the sensor on various applications. Air gap/clearance between the module/sensor and locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet is .010"-.050". module/sensor may not operate or engine may misfire if gap is wider than .060". When mounting the GM 4-pin HEI module, always fasten it with thermal paste (to dissipate the operating heat) on a clean, flat aluminum plate with plenty of cool, circulating air to dissipate the heat while in operation. NOTE: Do not allow module/sensor to make contact with locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet while engine is running! Click HERE for custom-made electronic ignition kits that operate off the flywheel end of the engine. These can be used for stock competition pulling engines and/or ordinary lawn & garden engines.
Designed Specifically for Single Cylinder Garden Pulling Tractors, these Self-Contained 12 Volt High Performance Dyna S Kit is Integrated with a Durable High Energy Ignition Coil Are Built with the Latest State-of-the-Art Engineering. Thoroughly tested and proven to be very reliable. Self-contained and very compact. Each kit includes: module/sensor, coil, bracket and locking set screw collar w/embedded detector/target magnet. No need for a separate/remote-mounted ignition coil and additional wiring. The high energy ignition coil is fastened above the Dynatek Dyna S module on the same aluminum mounting plate. Customer may have to drill and tap the block to mount the crank-trigger or modify the bracket if necessary. Each ignition kit comes prewired with one or two simple wire connection(s): Connect the RED wire to the ignition switch (battery positive (+) post), and connect the BLACK wire to the self-grounding killswitch (if equipped), or snip off the black wire if not needed. Set the air gap/clearance between sensor and magnet in locking set screw collar at .010"-.050", and set spark plug gap at .035". Please specify diameter of crankshaft PTO end for locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet. Most common crankshaft PTO end diameters are 1" and 1-1/8", but 3/4", 1-1/4", 1-3/8", 1-7/16" and 1-1/2" are rare. Most billet steel crankshafts have a 1-1/2" diameter PTO end (raised shoulder). Please specify diameter of crankshaft PTO end for locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet. Made in USA. Picture and video of each product coming soon.
Wiring Directions for the Module Shown Below: Connect the BLACK wire
on module to the negative (–) terminal on the ignition coil (and to
nothing else), and connect the RED wire
on the module to the positive (+) terminal on the coil and to the ignition
switch , which is connected to the positive (+) battery post. FYI - The module
is diode-protected, and will NOT burn up if the wires are connected in reverse
with power supplied.
But the
module will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few
minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening
and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a
master disconnect switch with a removable
key instead of just a toggle switch to power the ignition
system.
Dynatek Dyna S Ignition
Kit and System Shown Above for a Single Cylinder Engine. These ignition
systems works flawlessly and may outlast the life of the engine. These ignition
systems operate off the PTO end of the crankshaft and is mainly for competition
pulling engines that have nothing on the PTO end of the crankshaft. NOTE:
Slotted mounting holes will be machined in the ignition plate. If the bolt
holes in the PTO end of the block don't match the ones in the plate or if
bolt holes are not present, then new bolt holes will need to be drilled and
tapped in the engine block. Can be used on Kohler 10-16hp single or opposed
twin cylinder horizontal shaft engines. Set the clearance between the module
and locking collar at .010"-.050".
IMPORTANT - Gently rotate the flywheel
back and forth by hand to check and see that the module does not make contact
with the locking collar. Do not allow the module make contact with the locking
collar while the engine is running! FYI - The module
is diode-protected, and will NOT burn up if the wires are connected in reverse
with power supplied.
But the
module will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few
minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening
and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a
master disconnect switch with a removable
key instead of just a toggle switch to power the ignition system.
Self-Contained Ignition System.
This ignition system operate off the PTO end of the engine and is mainly
for competition pulling engines that have nothing on the PTO end of the
crankshaft. This high performance ignition system have been thoroughly tested
under extreme conditions, and produces a stable and very strong spark, even
with the compact ignition coil, allowing the engine to start quickly, idle
smoothly and rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or misfire to produce
more power. The high energy compact epoxy-encapsulated ignition coil is fastened
above the Dynatek Dyna S module on a sturdy aluminum mounting plate; cleans
up the engine compartment. The Dynatek Dyna S module/sensor is triggered
by a small magnet embedded in an aluminum locking set screw collar that's
fastened on the crankshaft. Wiring instructions: Connect
RED wire to coil positive (+) terminal
and to ignition switch (battery positive (+) post). This ignition system
is grounded through the engine. Set spark plug gap at .030". Picture of this
ignition system coming soon. An innovative and ingenious concept by Brian
Miller. $175.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
Self-Contained Crank Trigger
Electronic Ignition System for Kohler Engine Models KT17, KT17 Series II,
KT19, KT19 Series II, M18 and M20 Competition Pulling Engines
Only. Being the aftermarket and OEM Magnum M18 and M20 solid state
electronic ignition coils will hold up to around 3,600 RPM, when used at
higher RPMs, the secondary windings within the coil tend to overheat, causing
the coil to eventually fail. But this custom-made ignition system allows
the engine to rev to its maximum without failing. It works flawlessly and
may outlast the life of the engine. It operates off the PTO end of the engine
and is mainly for competition pulling engines that have nothing on the PTO
end of the crankshaft. The high energy dual-spark plug wire compact ignition
coil is fastened above the Dynatek Dyna S module on a sturdy aluminum mounting
plate; cleans up the engine compartment. IMPORTANT:
When ordering, please indicate the bolt hole spacing (measurement) for
mounting the angle bracket to the rear closure plate on the PTO end of the
engine. Or customer can machine their own adjustable slotted mounting
holes. This high performance ignition system have been thoroughly
tested under extreme conditions, and produces a stable and very strong spark,
even with the compact ignition coil, allowing the engine to start quickly,
idle smoothly and rev up to full speed. The Dynatek Dyna S module/sensor
is triggered by a small magnet embedded in an aluminum locking set screw
collar that's fastened on the crankshaft. Use this setup for durability when
the solid state ignition coil keeps failing for no apparent reason. Simple
one wire hook-up; RED wire on module/sensor
connects to 12 volt ignition switch (battery positive (+) post). This ignition
system is grounded through the engine. Kit includes: Dynatek Dyna S module/sensor
and high energy dual wire epoxy-encapsulated ignition coil with two molded-in
metal core conductor coil-to-spark plug wires and 90º spark plug
terminals/boots fastened on aluminum mounting plate, and small magnet embedded
in an aluminum locking set screw collar, and new battery ignition
OFF-IGNITION-START key switch (do not reuse OEM Magnum solid state ignition
key switch with this system) or momentary push button switch (to crank the
engine), OFF-ON toggle switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes;
to power the ignition) and fully insulated male and female slip-on spade
crimp-type wire connectors (to easily connect/disconnect the ignition system
to/from the power source). Remove the OEM solid state ignition coil and aluminum
bracket. They will serve no purpose with this kit. Use with metal core spark
plugs gapped at .030" each. Coil can withstand high engine vibrations. Please
specify diameter of crankshaft PTO end for the
locking set screw collar when ordering.
Click here to learn how to set the ignition
timing on a KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, M18 or M20 engine
with crank trigger ignition. An ingenious and innovative concept by
Brian Miller because nobody else advertise this kind of ignition system.
Replacement Dynatek Dyna S
hall effect module/sensor with black and red wires. FYI - This module
is diode-protected, and will NOT burn up if the wires are connected in reverse
with power supplied.
But the
module will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few
minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening
and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a
master disconnect switch with a removable
key instead of just a toggle switch to power the ignition
system. Use with small magnet in aluminum rotating disc
to trigger the spark. $60.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the parts or items in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Return to previous paragraph, section or website] [Top of Page]
Aluminum Locking Set Screw Collar
w/Embedded Trigger Magnet. Use with hall effect proximity sensors only.
$15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
How to Check for Spark and Set the Timing for the Dynatek Dyna S (and PerTronix Ignitor) module/sensors - After either setup is installed on the engine and power is supplied, simply rotate the locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet (loose) on the crankshaft back and forth by hand. Each time the embedded detector/trigger magnet passes the module/sensor, spark should occur. NOTE: Do not use a battery charger alone for power to perform this test. Battery chargers constantly switch between high and low voltage at 60 cycles per second, and the module sees this as the ignition being switched on and off, resulting in a continuous array of sparks.
A simple and precise way to set the ignition timing STATICALLY (engine not running) for either module/sensor -
How to accurately set the ignition timing STATICALLY for the Dynatek Dyna S, PerTronix Ignitor and Inductive 3-Wire Proximity module/sensor - (This is also how to test if the module/sensors or the ignition system is functioning or not.)
How to precisely set the ignition timing DYNAMICALLY (engine running) using an automotive inductive timing light for either module/sensor. (This is the most accurate way to set the timing.) NOTE: Timing can be checked, but not set while the engine is running! Do not allow module/sensor to make contact with the locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet while engine is running! -
Magnetic pickup coils and round-shaped proximity sensors are
very sensitive to mechanical damage (and electrical damage if connected wrong).
For magnetic pickup coils, set the air
gap/clearance from the detectable target (screw, pin or small raised area
on the rotating disc) at .010"-.060" with a brass, plastic, business card,
poster board, stainless steel (anything non-magnetic) feeler gauge. And being
3-wire inductive proximity sensors have a farther
detection range, set the air gap/clearance at .010"-.188". If the gap is
wider than .188" (3/16") with either sensor, the ignition system may not
produce a spark or the engine could misfire at higher RPM. To prevent the
possibility of an out of time spark, the detectable target needs to be a
minimum of 3/16" higher than or above the circumference surface of a steel
or cast iron rotating disc or flywheel. Direct metal contact with either
sensor could damage them. When in doubt if a sensor is mechanically
damaged, look at the end of it with the strong magnifying glass to see any
damage. If it is damaged, it needs to be replaced. A magnetic pickup
coil can be tested with a digital multimeter set on 200m DC, with the negative
lead of the meter on the white wire of the pickup coil and positive lead
on the black wire, then pass a small steel screw or bolt over the end of
the magnetic pickup coil. If the meter shows a reading, the pickup coil is
in good condition.
Normally Open 3-Wire Round-Shaped
Inductive Proximity Sensors for crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger
ignition. Recommended for use with the Chrysler and Ford electronic
ignition control module/units. Detects head of small ferrous metal (steel)
screw or bolt fastened to rotating disc or flywheel to generate power in
sensor. Spark will occur when aligned with head of steel screw (Kohler. etc.)
or pin (Tecumseh) in rotating disc or flywheel. Wide operating temperature
range. epoxy-encapsulated, mechanically rugged. Impervious to dirt, oil and
water. No maintenance required. Sensor is capable of powering crank-trigger
or flywheel-trigger ignition and digital tachometer at the same time. Durable
metal shielded threads with two stainless steel thin
jam nuts
and three, 10 foot long wire leads. Dimensions of each item below: 15/32"
(12mm) diameter x 1-3/8" thread length. Some proximity sensors have an LED
(Light Emitting Diode) on the rear of unit. If the proximity sensor is wired
incorrectly, the LED will stay on and go off when activated. Being
3-wire inductive proximity sensors have a farther
detection distance, set the air gap/clearance at .010" - .188". Direct metal
contact with either sensor will damage them. And if the gap is wider than
specified, the engine could misfire at higher RPM. To prevent the possibility
of an out of time spark, the detectable target needs to be a minimum of 3/16"
higher than or above the circumference surface of a steel or cast iron rotating
disc or flywheel. Click or tap here
for wiring diagrams.
Magnetic Pickup Coils
for A-1 Miller's flywheel- or
crank-trigger electronic ignition. All
magnetic pickup coils are Normally Open. Either can be used with the
high-output/performance GM 4-pin HEI module w/1.0 ohm coil, or with the Chrysler
or Ford electronic ignition control module/units. Detects head of small ferrous
metal (steel) screw or bolt fastened to rotating disc or flywheel to generate
power in magnetic pickup coil. Install screw head extended minimum 3/16"
higher than or above the surface of the flywheel to prevent an out of time
spark occurrence by the flywheel itself. Wide operating temperature range.
epoxy-encapsulated, mechanically rugged. Impervious to dirt, oil and water.
No maintenance required. Self-generating power. Durable metal shielded threads
with two jam
nuts. Please specify size when ordering. Can be used with a steel bracket
without interference of magnetism. By the way - The magnetic pickup coils
below work exactly the same. There is absolutely no difference in performance.
Set the air gap/clearance from the detectable target (screw, pin or
small raised area on the rotating disc) at .010"-.020" with a brass, plastic,
business card, poster board or anything non-magnetic feeler gauge.
Click or tap here for wiring diagrams.
Detectable Target Screws for
Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition. Install on the edge of an aluminum
or steel locking set screw collar, disc or
flywheel when using a magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire inductive proximity
sensor. The curvature or dome shaped heads of button- and Phillips-head screws
makes them ideal for use as a detectable target on a trigger disc or flywheel.
Secure in place with a split lock washer and/or
high strength liquid threadlocker
(Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent). FYI
- Store a container of liquid threadlocker or Super Glue upright and not
laying flat. The capped tip will not dry out and clog when stored upright.
Detectable Target Neodymium/Rare
Earth Ring Magnet, Rubber Cushioning/Isolator Washer and Steel 6-32 UNC Retaining
Screw for Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition. Each weighs 1/10 oz. / 6
grams. Fasten magnet w/screw and cushioning/isolator washer on the edge of
aluminum or steel disc, or flywheel when using a non-magnetic pickup coil,
3-wire hall effect proximity sensor or hall effect PerTronix Ignitor
module/sensor. Head of screw will become magnetized. NOTE:
The module/sensor is activated by
the South pole of the magnet, so do not remove the magnet from the screw.
And use caution when handling rare earth/neodymium magnets. They are
very brittle and can break easily when snapped onto something or when the
screw is overtightened. Secure the screw threads with
high strength liquid threadlocker
(Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent), and tighten
the screw just until the rubber washer begin to bulge. FYI - Store a container
of liquid threadlocker or Super Glue upright and not laying flat. The capped
tip will not dry out and clog when stored upright.
Drill and tap
6-32 UNC threads in the flywheel and install the magnet with the supplied
rubber cushioning/isolator washer and screw where the two drawn lines intersect.
An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no
advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging
my intelligence.)
High Quality GM 4-Pin HEI Ignition Control Module w/packet
of
thermal paste (to dissipate the operating heat). Use with
a high-output hall effect or inductive proximity sensor. Virtually any ignition
coil regardless of the internal primary resistor can be used. Best to be
used with a metal core conductor coil-to-spark plug wire and non-resistor/copper
core spark plug gapped at .025" or .035" (depending on size of coil) for
best performance. After thorough research, this particular HEI module that
I offer is the only one that will work correctly with the high-output cube-shaped
proximity sensor to maintain the ignition timing and produce an extremely
strong spark, allowing the engine to start
quickly, idle smoothly and rev up to full governed RPM. When mounting the
GM 4-pin HEI module, always fasten it with
thermal paste on a clean, flat aluminum plate with plenty
of cool, circulating air to dissipate the heat and cool the unit while in
operation. All GM HEI modules that I offer for sale have been tested personally
by Brian Miller on my Kohler test engine to insure proper operation. Requires
one (1) 3/16"/.187"/2.8mm and three (3) #250
slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors. Actual
weight of each module: 1.1 oz. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces OEM Kohler
part # 278903. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality High-Output/Performance GM 4-Pin HEI Ignition
Control Module w/packet of
thermal paste (to dissipate the operating heat). This
particular module connected to a magnetic pickup coil (below
Ê) works excellent with a stock ignition
coil that have a maximum 1.0 ohm internal primary resistor, metal core conductor
coil-to-spark plug wire and non-resistor/copper core spark plug gapped at
.025, which produce a strong spark, allowing
the engine to rev up to full speed. When mounting the GM 4-pin HEI module,
fasten it with
thermal paste on a clean, flat aluminum plate with plenty
of cool, circulating air to dissipate the heat and cool the unit while in
operation. Requires one (1) 3/16"/.187"/2.8mm and three (3) #250
slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors. Actual
weight of each module: 1.1 oz. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces OEM Kohler
part # 278903. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (Limited
supply.)
3/8" Magnetic Pickup Coil w/Mounting
Adapter to Convert from Breakerless Ignition or Points and Condenser and
Upgrade to Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition. Fits Kohler K-series K241-K361
engines with the 9" ring gear flywheel w/projection (hump) or OEM protruding
bolt head on flywheel or 3/4" wide area (to install trigger screw) and large
bearing plate with the two bosses for mounting this item, as pictured above.
When mounting the GM 4-pin HEI module, fasten it with
thermal paste on a clean, flat aluminum plate with plenty
of cool, circulating air to dissipate the heat and cool the unit while in
operation. Includes two 10-24 UNC (coarse thread) Allen socket head mounting
screws and split lock washers. If they're not already present, new 10-24
UNC (coarse thread) threads will need to be
drilled and tapped
in the two raised bosses in the bearing plate to mount the bracket for the
sensor's bracket. NOTE: Set air gap/clearance from projection (hump)
or OEM protruding bolt head on flywheel at .010"-.060" with a brass, plastic,
business card, poster board or anything non-magnetic feeler gauge. Ignition
timing will be fixed at 20º BTDC.
Click or tap here
for wiring diagrams. An original, ingenious, thoroughly researched
and innovative concept invented by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise
this for use on a small engine. Please accept no advertised copycat products
of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.)
Now the ordinary/stock 4-pin GM HEI electronic ignition control
module lives up to its name, High Energy Ignition! When used on a small engine,
in order for an ordinary/stock 4-pin HEI module allow the engine rev up to
full RPM, it must be used with the cube-shaped 3-wire inductive proximity
sensor, and can be used with virtually any ignition coil, regardless
of the ohm resistance or voltage output. A metal core conductor coil-to-spark
plug wire and non-resistor/copper core spark plug should be used. Set spark
plug gap at .035". Sensor is also capable of powering an HEI crank-trigger
ignition and a digital tachometer at the same time.
This concept revolutionizes the use of this small, compact and versatile
module! This is a thoroughly tested, researched and proven reliable ignition
system invented by Brian Miller for ordinary lawn and garden engines and
competition pulling engines. And when mounting the GM 4-pin HEI module, always
fasten it with
thermal paste (to dissipate the operating heat)
on a clean, flat aluminum plate with plenty of cool, circulating air to dissipate
the heat while in operation. Click or tap
here for wiring diagrams. IMPORTANT - The
wire that comes from the stator under the flywheel for Kohler Trigger Module
or Tecumseh Solid State Electronic Ignition Module generates about 250 volts
(serious) while the engine is running at full governed speed. Do not touch
this wire (terminal) with one bare hand and the engine itself with your other
hand while the engine is running! It is not needed for any of A-1 Miller's
crank-trigger ignition systems. So snip off this wire or tape up the terminal
to prevent a short circuit or electrocution.
[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
New High Quality Chrysler /
Dodge / Plymouth Electronic Ignition Control Module/Unit for flywheel-trigger
electronic ignition. Operates with 12 volts DC negative ground Requires
a minimum 1.2 ohm ballast resistor to prevent burning up module.
Click or tap here to learn how to check the
Ohm resistance in a ballast resistor. This module can be used with the
magnetic pickup coil or proximity sensor and virtually any ignition coil,
regardless of the ohm resistance or voltage output, and will allow the engine
to start quicker, idle smoothly, rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or
misfire and it'll produce more power. Actual weight of module: 14 oz.
Click or tap here for wiring diagrams.
New 1.6 Ohm Ballast Resistor
for use with Chrysler module (above È)
to prevent burning up module.
New High Quality Ford / Mercury
/ Lincoln electronic ignition control module/Unit for crank-trigger and
flywheel-trigger electronic ignition. Operates operates with 12 volts DC
negative ground. Requires no ballast resistor. This module can be used with
the magnetic pickup coil or proximity sensor and virtually any ignition coil,
regardless of the ohm resistance or voltage output, regardless of the ohm
resistance, and will allow the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly, rev
up to full RPM with no hesitation or misfire and produce more power. Actual
weight of module: 1 lb. 7 oz. Click or tap
here for wiring diagrams.
High
Quality Inductive Wireless Handheld Small Engine Tachometer. A tachometer
is required in setting the correct RPMs (normally 3,200 or 3,600 maximum
for small engines) of an engine to prevent over-revving and possible damage
to the engine or dangerous flywheel explosion. For gas/spark ignite engines
only. Works with magneto and battery-powered ignition systems. Very accurate.
This handheld analog tachometer works great for checking/setting the RPM
on various small engines in the shop, and/or for checking/setting the RPM
[tech] on stock governed competition pulling engines. Hold sensor (antenna)
close to coil-to-spark plug wire for reading. Operates off a self-contained
replaceable 9 volt battery. Has built-in battery voltage check. Reads up
to 5,000 RPM on the low scale, and 15,000 RPM on the high scale.
High Quality Inductive Small
Engine Tachometer/Hour Meter. A tachometer is required in setting the
correct RPMs (normally 3,200 or 3,600 maximum for small engines) of an engine
to prevent over-revving and possible damage to the engine or dangerous flywheel
explosion. Very accurate. Can be hand-held to temporarily set engine RPM
or can be surface-mounted and secured with two screws to monitor engine RPM
at all times. Large 3/8 inch LCD display. Works with all spark ignition engines
by selecting engine type using S1 and S2 buttons. Works with magneto and
battery-powered ignition systems. If tachometer does not turn on automatically
as soon as engine starts, press and hold the two buttons at the same time.
Instructions included. Tachometer reads up to 99,999 RPM. Hour meter reads
up to 9999:59 hours/minutes then resets to Zero. Programmable maintenance
hour setting with service icon, a reminder when to change oil or other service.
Can be manually reset to Zero hours. Programmable maintenance hour setting
with service icon, a reminder when to change oil or other service. Easy
installation: Single wire wraps around spark plug wire and secured with two
supplied nylon zip-ties. No wire terminal connections required. Dimensions:
2" wide x 1-3/4" depth x 3/4" height.
High Quality Digital
Tachometer/Proximity Sensor Kits. A tachometer is required in setting
the correct RPMs (normally 3,200 or 3,600 maximum for small engines) of an
engine to prevent from over-revving and possible damage to the engine or
dangerous flywheel explosion. Choice of a
RED or
BLUE numeric display. Will work with
single- or twin-cylinder small engines or multi-cylinder automotive engines,
gas or diesel. The great thing about this type of tachometer is it needs
no setup. It displays accurate RPMs as soon as the engine cranks over to
start. Displays up to 9,999 RPM. Very accurate. Tachometer returns to zero
[0000] when engine is shut down. Operates totally independent of the ignition
system. Can be used for lawn & garden equipment or competition pulling
engines. Designed to be permanently mounted to monitor engine RPM at all
times. Tachometer can be mounted in dashboard, instrument panel, engine control
panel, flywheel shroud, etc. This precision digital tachometer operates with
external power and on the same principle as A-1 Miller's
flywheel- or crank-trigger ignition systems
with a proximity sensor to detect the target, which can be a small ferrous
steel screw or pin, or magnet in a rotating disc on the crankshaft or on/in
flywheel. A sturdy steel or aluminum bracket will need to be fabricated by
customer to mount the sensor in close proximity of the detector/trigger target.
Set air gap/clearance at .010"-.188". Tachometer works with 8-24 volts DC,
proximity sensor works with 6-36 volts DC. Dimensions for mounting hole for
tachometer: 3" wide x 1-17/32" wide. Tachometer measures 1" in depth. Dimensions
of proximity sensor: 15/32" diameter x 1-3/8" thread length. Wiring Instructions:
#1 wire on tachometer connects to brown wire on proximity sensor and ignition
switch (12 volt power), #2 wire on tachometer connects to blue wire on proximity
sensor and engine/chassis ground (battery negative (–) post), and #5
wire on tachometer connects to black wire on (either) proximity sensor. Wires
#3 and #4 connects to nothing. Wiring is the same for the hall effect and
inductive proximity sensors. Some proximity sensors have an LED (Light Emitting
Diode) on the rear of unit. If the proximity sensor is wired incorrectly,
the LED will illuminate within the target.
Click or tap here for YouTube videos to see how well this
tachometer works. Cannot be wired in conjunction with the Dynatek Dyna
S or PerTronix Ignitor ignition modules. This tachometer must be wired separately
or wiring can be integrated with A-1 Miller's crank-trigger ignition system
that use a proximity sensor.
Aluminum Locking Set Screw Collar
w/Embedded Trigger Magnet. Use with hall effect proximity sensors only.
$15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
A-1 Miller's Computerized Stuska Water Brake Engine Dynamometer (Dyno) Service with DPM Data Logger Software to Test Horsepower and Torque! | [Top of Page]
For performance testing of 10-16hp
single cylinder Kohler stock or competition pulling engines at speeds up
to 12,000 RPM. 100% accurate, customers can rent dyno time, fine tune and
make adjustments or changes to their engines to gain maximum horsepower and
torque, and print-out the results so their tractor(s) will be truly competitive
on the track. With an engine dyno, the puller can adjust their engine to
get maximum horsepower and torque, and gear their tractor appropriately to
have an advantage over the competition. NOTE: A fresh-built engine may
not produce full power until it's broke-in. This is when the valves wear-in
with the seats to completely seal in the compression. The rings will likely
hold the compression, but the valves may leak slightly until they wear into
the seats. This is normal for all engines and may take several hours or pulls
to happen, then the valves will be able to hold full compression. Lots of
pullers tell A-1 Miller's after I've built their engines that it seems to
pull stronger every time they pull it.
Engine Dyno Rental Fee: $50.00 per hour run time from the moment the engine is started. No setup fee for Cub Cadet engines with a 3- or 6-pin/stud clutch driver. An adapter may need to be needed or fabricated for other makes and models of engines. Only engines with the narrow base oil pan can be tested. Engines with the wide base (tall) oil pan cannot be tested at this time. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]
Coming Soon - Detailed Illustrated
Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back and Self-Propelled Garden
Tractor Pulling Sled. FYI - I have lots of
work to do in my shop and I work on my sled plans in my spare time. As soon
as my plans with an inventory list of parts to use are perfected, I'll post
the update in my websites with prices of the plans. Remember - Perfection
takes time. If it's worth having, it's worth waiting for. Also, I plan to
acquire a bigger shop and may build high quality garden tractor pulling sleds
in the future to offer for sale. Please call 573-256-0313 (shop) or 573-881-7229
(cell; text or voice message), or email
pullingtractor@aol.com if interested
in purchasing the plans or a sled. - Brian Miller
If you would
like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website,
and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance and support,
please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank
Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.
When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly
with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to
the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine parts, entire
engine, transaxle, transmission, entire garden tractor, etc. for rebuilding
and/or repairing. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long."
(We're planning to relocate our business to other property with a bigger
and better shop so we can hire more help and provide many more high quality
parts and professional services.)
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Payment Options and We Ship to Canada and
Worldwide 
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent
by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged
item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service
Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal
Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S.
territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground
or equivalent services. We try to keep our shipping cost to customers within
reason. Therefore, we don't ship our products in a fancy-looking package
with our company name and/or logo on it because most customers will just
toss it in the trash after they remove the contents. And being there is no
USPS tracking number outside the US, all I can do is make sure I write your
address correctly on the customs form and on your package.
My websites are not set up to process orders and accept payments. Therefore, for payment options, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total amount for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge), Western Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram Money Transfers. If paying with a credit/debit card, please call me at either number below. To make a payment to me through PayPal, please click this link: https://www.paypal.me/PullingTractor. Please use the "Friends and Family" option, or add 3% to the total amount to cover PayPal's processing surcharge. Or to make a payment to me (pullingtractor@aol.com) in the US through the Venmo app, please click this link: venmo.com. Or use Cash App to make a payment to me (pullingtractor@aol.com). And be sure to mention in PayPal, Venmo or Cash App a description of what the payment is for with your full name, postal address, phone number and email address. If sending a money order or cashier's check, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete mailing address, phone number, email address and a description of what the payment is for. I'll make a note of your order when I have all your information, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send everything on your list to you as soon as I have the parts in stock after I receive your payment.
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Copyright © 1996-Present. This website created, designed and maintained by Brian Miller.
Fasten the module to the engine
sheet metal that has plenty of cool, circulating air with the supplied mounting
screw.
Neoprene Rubber O-Ring. Installs
on points pushrod close to engine block, allowing any seepage of oil to drip
down, staying off the points contacts. .50¢ each, plus shipping
& handling.
Translucent, Silicone Rubber
Diaphragm Seal. Slides over points pushrod to block oil seepage 100%. Held
in place by points bracket. IMPORTANT - Before installing, apply clean
motor oil, gear oil or lubricating grease inside seal or on points pushrod
to prevent premature wear and possible oil leakage of the seal. Also
used as part of the flywheel guard on various Kohler Magnum engine models
M10-M16. OEM Kohler part # 220074-S. $6.25 each, plus shipping &
handling. [
Includes 16" length, 16 gauge
stranded copper wire, crimp connectors and OEM Kohler points cover/wire grommet.
Use for single cylinder Kohler engines with coil located next to carburetor.
Replace deteriorated wire assembly or use this part when converting from
Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition. High quality
A-1 Miller's part. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
16" length, 16 gauge stranded
copper wire, crimp connectors and OEM Kohler points cover/wire grommet. Use
for single cylinder Kohler engines with coil located next to carburetor.
Replace deteriorated wire assembly or use this part when converting from
Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition. High quality
A-1 Miller's part. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Low Capacity Ignition
Condenser/Capacitor. Fits certain Kohler engine models K91 and K241 with
magneto ignition, and various other makes and models of small engines with
a self-energizing magneto ignition coil. 5mm mounting hole. Can also be used
with a 
Medium Capacity Ignition
Condensers/
High Capacity/Performance Ignition
Condenser/
OEM Kohler condenser clamp w/9/32"
mounting hole. Allows the high-output/performance condenser (above) be mounted
next to the coil with one of the coil's mounting bolts. Otherwise, it will
need to be fastened next to the points. Irrelevant Kohler part number.
$2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Copper Core/Non-Resistor
Spark Plugs for Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181/M8, and cast iron
block Tecumseh engine models VH80, VH100, HH80, HH100, HH120, OH140, OH150,
OH160 and OH180. Copper core spark plugs allows the ignition coil to operate
cooler and last longer. For best engine performance, set gap at .025" with
a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system, .035"
with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with a
high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 3/8" thread
reach, flat washer seat.
High Quality Copper Core/Non-Resistor
Spark Plugs for Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K330/K331, K321/M14,
K341/M16, K361, K482, K532 and K582. Copper core spark plugs allows the ignition
coil to operate cooler and last longer. For best engine performance, set
gap at .025" with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition
system, .035" with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with
a high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 7/16" thread
reach for stock OEM cylinder heads, flat washer seat.
Sparks plugs for machined
billet cylinder heads for competition pulling only. High Quality Copper
Core/Non-Resistor Spark Plugs for Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12,
K330/K331, K321/M14 , K341/M16. Copper core spark plugs allows the ignition
coil to operate cooler and last longer. For best engine performance, set
gap at .025" with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition
system, .035" with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with
a high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 3/4" thread
reach, flat washer seat. Irrelevant Kohler part number.
High Quality Copper Core/Non-Resistor
Spark Plugs for most models of Onan twin-cylinder air-cooled small engines.
Copper core spark plugs allows the ignition coil to operate cooler and last
longer. For best engine performance, set gap at .025" with a self-energizing
magneto or solid state electronic ignition system, .035" with a full size
battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with a high-output/performance
battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 11/16" thread reach, flat washer seat.
Indexing Washers for Tapered
Seat Spark Plugs with 14mm Threads. Position spark plug in combustion chamber
with open or exposed gap toward the piston in OHV engines for more power
and torque when using tractor under extreme conditions, such as heavy mowing,
garden plowing, pushing/blowing snow, or for competition pulling. Made of
copper. Available in the following thicknesses: .010", .021" and .032".
$1.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
Plastic Housing Electrical Connector
Only. Fits universal OFF-IGNITION-START key switches above and other key
switches with same terminal configuration. Replace damaged connector when
the brass slide-on spade crimp wire connectors are in good condition. Requires
1/4" width slide-on brass spade crimp wire connectors with locking tab/tang
below. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
1/4" Width Slide-On Brass Spade
Crimp Wire Connector with Locking Tab/Tang. Fits plastic housing connectors
used on most OFF-IGNITION-START key switches, voltage rectifier/regulators,
head lights, etc. To remove old slide-on brass connector from plastic housing,
use a small flat blade screwdriver to depress locking tab/tang on connector,
and pull connector out of housing. Solder or use
Solid State Electronic Ignition
Coil with molded-in Module. Fits Kohler Magnum engine model M8. NOTE:
Use with a new Autolite or Champion non-resistor/copper core spark plug of
the correct type gapped at .025" for longer coil life. Install coil with
spark plug wire facing engine block as shown in picture to the right.
Solid State Electronic Ignition
Coil with molded-in Module. Fits Kohler Magnum engine models M10, M12, M14
and M16. NOTE: Use with a new Autolite or Champion non-resistor/copper
core spark plug of the correct type gapped at .025" for longer coil life.
Install coil with spark plug wire facing engine block as shown in picture
to the right.
Solid State Electronic Ignition
Coil with molded-in Module. Fits Kohler Magnum opposed (flathead) twin cylinder
engine models MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. NOTES: Use with new Autolite
or Champion non-resistor/copper core spark plugs of the correct type gapped
at .015" for longer coil life. Install coil with spark plug wires facing
outward. Either coil may fail prematurely in competition pulling with wide
open throttle operation. Use A-1 Miller's reliable custom-made made
High Quality Epoxy-Encapsulated
4.0 Ohm Ignition Coil with molded-in dual metal conductor spark plug wires.
Dimensions: 4" overall length including mounting bracket x 2-1/8" body width
x 15" low tension wires x (2) molded-in 24" length spark plug wires. Comes
with two 90º spark plug boots and terminals. $40.00 each, plus
shipping & handling.
High quality aftermarket 12
volt coil with 5.0 ohm internal primary resistor; 20,000 volts output.
$55.00 each, plus shipping & handing.
New cube-shaped 3-wire
inductive proximity sensor w/mounting adapter and two Allen head mounting
screws.
A-1 Miller's Custom-Made
Replacement Electronic Ignition Kits for Tecumseh engine models VH80, VH100,
HH80, HH100, HH120, OH120, OH140, OH150, OH160 and OH180 with a gear
starter that have a failed OEM Solid State Ignition. This ignition
system works flawlessly and may outlast the life of the engine. This replacement
ignition system installs in place of the OEM Tecumseh Solid State Ignition
(SSI) module unit and is completely hidden under the flywheel shroud from
outside view, with only one wire connection. This high performance ignition
system have been thoroughly tested under extreme conditions, and produces
a stable and very strong spark, even with the compact ignition coil as shown
in the pictures, allowing the engine to start quickly, idle smoothly and
rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or misfire to produce more power. Epoxy
molding makes the module/sensor and coil impervious to dirt, oil, grease
and moisture. This ignition system may outlast the life of the engine. This
revolutionizes the ignition system for older cast iron block Tecumseh engines!
NOTE - Being this ignition system operates with 12 volts DC negative ground,
the OEM key switch for the Tecumseh Solid State Ignition (SSI) will not work
with any battery-powered ignition systems. The OEM switch used with SSI is
actually for magneto ignition, which when the engine is shut-down, it grounds
the self-energizing wire connected to the SSI ignition. And battery ignition
requires a switch that disconnects the power source from the ignition. So
with this ignition system, you will need either an OFF-ON-START battery-ignition
key switch, or an OFF-ON toggle switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security
purposes; to power the ignition) and a momentary push button switch (to crank
the engine). 
A-1 Miller's Economy Replacement
Electronic Ignition Kit. This ignition system works flawlessly and may
outlast the life of the engine. This ignition system operates with 12 volts
DC negative ground. This high performance ignition system have been thoroughly
tested under extreme conditions, and produces a stable and very strong spark,
even with a stock ignition coil (the 30,000 volt Bosch blue coil is not needed
with this system), allowing the engine to start quickly, idle smoothly and
rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or misfire to produce more power. Includes:
New 3/8" x 1" magnetic pickup coil w/1/8" thickness angled mounting bracket,
choice of new Chrysler ignition control module w/new ballast resistor or
new Ford ignition control module, new 1.0 ohm full size canister-type coil
w/new coil-to-spark plug wire, and new Autolite 295 or Champion J8C spark
plug. Magnetic pickup coil and angled mounting bracket installs in place
of OEM SSI module, and replacement ignition control module and coil fastens
on outside of engine.