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Updated: 4/18/20 (Website reconstruction in progress) Jump down to:
If you would like to purchase
any of the parts or services listed in this website, and/or for FREE
professional, accurate and honest technical assistance and support, please
contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia,
MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | 
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving
a voice message, please speak slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday,
except holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try
again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I
stutter.)
E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.
When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly
with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to
the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we
can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
Solid State Electronic Ignition Module - | Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any of these parts or services. | [Top of Page]
Replace the Points and Condenser in a Magneto Ignition System with
a Universal Solid State Electronic Ignition Module
Wiring Diagram and Installation Instructions for Universal Solid State Electronic Magneto Ignition Module are as follows:
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   3/16"
Plug to Replace Kohler Points Pushrod. Use in Kohler engine models
K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, K482, K532
and K582 when converting from magneto to solid state ignition (above), Magnum
solid state ignition, flywheel- or crank-trigger
electronic ignition (further down in this website). Install with a medium
size hammer; fits very tight. OEM Briggs & Stratton part #'s 231143,
692882. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Block-Off Plate to Cover Kohler Points Pushrod Hole. Use in Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582 when converting from magneto to solid state ignition (above), Magnum solid state ignition, or flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition (further down in this website). Made of 1/8" thickness aluminum or steel. Apply RTV silicone sealant to prevent oil leak and use OEM ignition points mounting screws to secure in place. A-1 Miller part. An original, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat product of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.) $4.00 each, plus shipping & handling. NOTE: The alternative to using either of the above items is to remove the ignition points and points pushrod. Place the pushrod on a flat, hard surface, and use a hammer and sharp flat cold chisel to lightly create knurled raised places or marks midway on the pushrod. Then install the pushrod in the engine block with the hammer. The knurling will retain the pushrod in place. [Return to previous paragraph, section or website] |
Conventional (Points and Condenser) Ignition Parts - | Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any of these parts or services. | [Top of Page]
  Ignition Points for Kohler, Tecumseh and Clinton engines. Fits
Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331,
K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582
with magneto or battery ignition (use with mounting bracket). Also fits Tecumseh
cast iron block engine models HH80, HH100, HH120 with magneto or battery
ignition (use without mounting bracket); and Clinton engine models 414, 418,
420, 422 (use without mounting bracket). NOTE: If possible, apply clean
lubricating grease on the hinge pin before installing points so the hole
will last longer. If it's dry, it'll wear over time, effecting ignition timing,
resulting in loss of engine power. Or magneto ignition system can
be upgraded with the virtually trouble- and maintenance-free
electronic transistorized ignition module
or battery-powered
flywheel-trigger/crank-trigger ignition
for a stronger and more stable spark, quicker starts, better idle and smoother
running engine.
  Hex Socket Head (Allen) Cap Screw w/split lock washer for Easier
Adjustment of the Ignition Points on Kohler single cylinder engines. Replaces
the slotted head adjustment screw in points. This Allen screw makes it much
easier to precisely set the point gap and/or ignition timing with a 9/64"
hex (Allen) L-wrench in garden tractors with a
longitudinal engine, such as Cub Cadet, Economy Power King,
Ford, hydrostatic-drive John Deere, Pennsylvania Panzer, Meteor, Copar, etc.,
so the points will not slip out of adjustment. No need to use this on garden
tractors with a
transverse engine, such as older Bolens, John Deere, Sears
Suburban, Wheel Horse, etc. NOTE: The threads in aftermarket points may need
to be recut with a 8-32 UNF hand tap for this adjustment screw. And due to
risk of stripping threads in the thin metal points bracket, do not over-tighten
this adjustment screw! An original, ingenious and innovative concept by
Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat product of this kind.(But
I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.)
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High Quality Adjustable Chevy (GM) Ignition Points with Stiff Spring for Quick Reaction at High Engine RPMs. Includes locking/jam nut. Loosen nut with a 5/16" wrench, set ignition timing with adjustment screw (and timing light), and tighten nut to prevent adjusting screw from vibrating out of adjustment due to high engine RPM. For use on Kohler competition pulling engines only. An original and ingenious idea by Brian Miller. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
   Phillips and Socket
Head (Allen) screws with split lock washers for mounting of ignition points
and points cover on Kohler engines. These type of screws make for easier
fastening of points and points cover to engine block in hard-to-get places
than the OEM slotted head screws on garden tractors with a
transverse engine, such as older Bolens, belt-drive John
Deere, Sears Suburban, Wheel Horse, etc. Each screw replaces Kohler part
# X-131-1-S. Dimensions: 10-24 UNC x 3/8" thread length. An original,
ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised
copycat product of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my
intelligence.) TIP: When installing a screw to keep it from falling out of
the screwdriver, for ordinary steel screws, temporarily magnetize the screwdriver
by rubbing a magnet along the length of the shank, or for stainless steel
screws, apply a dab of grease in the head of the screw.
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   Ignition Points
Pushrods for Kohler K-series engine models K141, K160/K161 and K181. Each
made of 304 stainless steel. OEM points pushrod is made of aluminum. NOTE:
Used OEM pushrod to be no less than 1.265" in length and .184" in diameter.
Measure accurately to determine if need replacing.
 Ignition Points
Pushrods for Kohler K-series engine models K90/K91, K241, K301, K321, K341,
K361, K482, K532 and K582. NOTE: Used OEM pushrod to be no less than 1.500"
in length and .184" in diameter. Measure accurately to determine if need
replacing.
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Neoprene Rubber O-Ring and Diaphragm
Seal for Ignition Points Pushrod. Please choose to use one or the
other below Ê, no need to use both.
Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321,
K330/K331, K341, K361, K482, K532 and K582 with a 3/16" diameter points pushrod.
Each prevents any leakage of crankcase oil from contaminating points contacts.
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 Oil-Embedded
Bronze Sleeve Bushing to Repair Worn 3/16" Ignition Points Pushrod Hole in
Kohler Engines. Dimensions: 3/16" I.D. x 1/4" O.D. x 5/8" length. To install,
the points pushrod hole will need to be precision-machined (enlarged) exactly
to .250" (1/4") for a press-fit installation.
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 Ignition Points
Cover Gasket. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, K241,
K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series
II, K482, K532 and K582. Protects points contacts from dust, dirt and water
contamination. OEM Kohler part # 52 041 11-S.
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 Ignition Points
Cover/Wire Grommet. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181,
K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19
Series II, K482, K532 and K582. Protects points wire from chafing against
cover and prevents dust and dirt from contaminating points contacts. FYI:
RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant will serve the same
purpose.
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 "Assemble It
Yourself" Points-to-Coil Ignition Wire Kit. For Kohler engines with
battery-powered ignition, models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301,
K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II,
K482, K532 and K582. For converting from Magneto ignition or Kohler's Breakerless
Ignition to conventional battery-powered points and condenser/capacitor ignition,
or replace frayed/cracked insulation OEM wire and/or broken connector(s)
to prevent a short circuit and/or engine misfire. Includes 22" 16 gauge stranded
copper wire (cut to length if desired), two slip-on crimp connectors and
OEM Kohler points cover grommet. High quality A-1 Miller part. $5.00
per kit, plus shipping & handling.
Assembled Points-to-Coil Ignition Wire Kits -
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 Ignition Points
Cover without Kill Button for Kohler engines without Battery Ignition.
Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321,
K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482,
K532 and K582. Protects points contacts from dust, dirt and water contamination.
For use with a remote ignition switch to kill engine, such as garden tractors
and other equipment. Made of 16 gauge stamped steel. Not available in
aftermarket. L
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 Ignition Points
Cover with Kill Button for Kohler engines with Magneto Ignition. Fits
Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341,
K482, K532 and K582. Protects points contacts from dust, dirt and water
contamination. Push and hold button in to kill engine. For use on self-contained,
stand-alone engines without a remote ignition switch to kill engine, such
as garden tillers, truck-mounted or portable air compressors, generator/welders,
water pumps, etc. Made of 16 gauge stamped steel. Discontinued from Kohler.
OEM Kohler part # A-220136-S. Not available in aftermarket.
L
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  Low Capacity
Ignition
Condensers/Capacitors.
Each designed for use with self-energizing magneto ignition or a 12 volt
small-size epoxy encapsulated ignition coil. Use on Kohler engine models
K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, K330/K331, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19
Series II, K482, K532 and K582. Including Tecumseh cast iron block engine
models HH80, HH100, HH120 with magneto ignition, Onan model P, and various
other makes and models of small engines with a small size ignition coil.
Body length: 33 mm, width: 17 mm. NOTE: If an engine idles well, but runs
erratically when revved up, like it hits and misses, pops and backfires,
then chances are, it needs a new condenser/capacitor. And always install
a condenser/capacitor with the wire or terminal facing down so rain water
and/or when washing off engine, water will not enter inside condenser/capacitor,
ruining it. Which will allow the engine to idle well, but run erratically
when revved up. Click or tap
here to hear what an engine with a faulty condenser/capacitor sounds
like. NOTE: Magneto ignition system can be upgraded with the virtually
trouble- and maintenance-free electronic transistorized
ignition module or battery-powered
flywheel-trigger/crank-trigger ignition
for a stronger and more stable spark, quicker starts, better idle and smoother
running engine.
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 High Quality Copper
Core/Non-Resistor Spark Plugs for Kohler engine models K90/K91, most Briggs
& Stratton and small Tecumseh engines. Copper core spark plugs allows
ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. Set gap at .025" with a
self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system, .035"
with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with a
high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 3/8" thread
reach, flat washer seat. Replaces Briggs and Stratton part # 802592S.
 High Quality Copper Core/Non-Resistor
Spark Plugs for Kohler twin-cylinder flathead engine models MV16, KT17, KT17
Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Copper core
spark plugs allows ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. For best
engine performance, set gap at .025" with a self-energizing magneto or solid
state electronic ignition system, .035" with a full size battery-powered
ignition coil, and .060" with a high-output/performance battery-powered coil.
14mm threads x 15/32" thread reach, tapered seat.
 High Quality Copper Core/Non-Resistor
Spark Plugs for most makes and models of OHV aluminum block single- and
twin-cylinder air-cooled small engines. Copper core spark plugs allows ignition
coil to operate cooler and last longer. For best engine performance, set
gap at .025" with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition
system, .035" with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with
a high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 5/8" thread
reach, flat washer seat.
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 Spark Plug Grommet
for Kohler "Quiet Line" engine models K181AQS, M8, K241AQS, K301AQS, K321AQS
and K341AQS. Fastens directly on spark plug in air duct shield (sheet metal)
over cylinder head to help maintain cool air over the cylinder head. Made
of neoprene rubber.
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  Indexing
Washers for Flat Seat Spark Plugs with 14mm Threads. Position spark plug
in combustion chamber with open/exposed gap facing the center of the piston
in flathead engines for more power and torque when using tractor under extreme
conditions, such as heavy mowing, garden plowing, pushing/blowing snow, or
for competition pulling. To know exactly where the open gap is when the spark
plug is installed, use a permanent ink felt tip marker
(Sharpie,
Magic Marker,
Marks-A-Lot) to place a mark (line) on the porcelain in-line
with the open gap at the tip of the spark plug as shown in the picture to
the right. And on flat seat spark plugs, leave the original
compression washer on the spark plug and add the indexing washer(s) as needed
until the open gap face the piston. Available in the following
thicknesses: .005", .010" and .015". Made of hardened steel.
.75¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
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  Grounding-Type Safety Break-Away / Kill Switch with Pull-Pin.
Use for competition pulling only; mount on rear of tractor. When the pin
pulled, it grounds the ignition coil from producing spark. If using with
a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition systems: Connect
one wire to the chassis ground, and connect the other wire to the
points/condenser wire or to the kill terminal on the solid state electronic
ignition coil/module. If using with a battery-powered ignition system: Connect
one wire to the chassis ground, and connect the other wire to the coil negative
(–) terminal. NOTE: With battery-powered ignition, as soon as pin
is pulled (engine will die), manually shut off ignition switch right away
to prevent possible damage to the ignition coil and electronic ignition module
if equipped with crank-trigger
ignition. This type of switch does not disable power to the electric
fuel pump on a pulling tractor. The electric
fuel pump must be shut-off manually by the ignition switch or an OFF-ON
toggle/flip switch or [security] key switch.
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 High Quality
Universal Self-Grounding OFF-ON Kill Switches for Self-Energizing Magneto
Ignition w/Points and Condenser, Solid State Ignition Installed on Various
Aluminum Block Engines, or OEM Solid State Ignition Installed on Tecumseh's
Cast Iron Block Engines. Very durable, tough switches. Each can be mounted
in metal (grounded) dashboard, instrument panel, engine control panel, engine
flywheel shroud, etc. Single blade on switch connects to points wire or solid
state electronic module wire/terminal that kills the engine. Can be used
on anything that has points and condenser/capacitor magneto or
solid state electronic modules, such as:
Kohler Magnum and Command engines, lawn mowers, lawn tractors, garden tillers,
recreational vehicles, chainsaws, portable air compressors, generators/welders,
water pumps, etc.
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 High
Quality Universal OFF-ON Switches for Battery-Powered Points/Condenser
Ignition or Battery-Powered Flywheel/Crank-Trigger Electronic
Ignition. Each can be mounted in dashboard, instrument panel, engine
control panel, etc. Very durable, tough switches. Can be used on virtually
anything that has a battery-powered electrical system, such as: garden tractors,
pulling tractors, mini-rods, hot-rods, farm tractors, automobiles, etc.
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 High Quality
Universal Light Duty OFF/ON 15 Amp Capacity Momentary Push Button Switch.
BLACK button; Normally Open; push to connect circuit. Use as starter
switch to crank engine, as a safety switch, temporarily power electrical
accessories, such as light(s), etc., or to power kill switch motor (on pulling
sled). Starter solenoid/relay may be required if electrical load exceeds
15 amps. Use #250
slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals
when connecting wires to switch. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. 2-1/8" overall
length. $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Universal Light Duty ON/OFF 15 Amp Capacity Momentary Push Button Switch. RED button; Normally Off; push to disconnect circuit. Use as a safety switch for transmission shifter in a pulling vehicle to disconnect power to the starting circuit when transmission is in gear. Use #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals when connecting wires to switch. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. 2-1/8" overall length. $16.00 each, plus shipping & handling. High Quality Universal Heavy Duty 20 Amp Capacity Momentary Push Button Switch. Normally Open; push to connect circuit. Comes with two screws to connect between battery positive (+) post and starter motor. Heavy wire terminals and minimum #8 gauge wire recommended. Starter solenoid/relay may be required if electrical load exceeds 20 amps. Requires 5/8" mounting hole. $14.00 each, plus shipping & handling. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website] |
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  High Quality Universal 3-Position OFF-IGNITION-START Key Switch
for use with Self-Energizing Magneto Ignition w/Points and Condenser,
Solid State Ignition Installed on Various Aluminum Block Engines, or OEM
Solid State Ignition Installed on Tecumseh's Cast Iron Block Engines.
Use with a starter solenoid/relay to crank the engine to prevent burning
out internal contacts in switch. Identification of terminals in clockwise
rotation are: B = Battery (+); G = Ground (ground to body of switch); L =
Lights (Auxiliary); M = Magneto (Ignition); S = Solenoid (starter). Key
positions: OFF position makes contact with M+G; IGNITION position makes contact
with B+L; START position makes contact with B+S. Each terminal identified
for correct Wiring connections. If using an ammeter/amp gauge, connect the
gauge/meter to the battery positive (+) post, then to the B terminal on the
switch. Trace the wires on your tractor/equipment to see if they match the
terminals on this switch. If they don't match, the plug-in spade connectors/wires
can be rearranged in the plastic connector housing to match the corresponding
terminals on the switch. To do this, use a small flat blade screwdriver to
depress the locking tab/tang so the plug-in connector can be pulled out from
the plastic connector housing. Bend the locking tab/tang up slightly before
reinserting it in the plastic connector so it will be secured in place. Or
use #250
slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals
when connecting wires to switch. Requires 5/8" diameter mounting hole.
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 High Quality Universal 3-Position OFF-IGNITION-START Key Switch
for use with Battery-Powered Points/Condenser Ignition or Battery-Powered
Flywheel/Crank-Trigger Electronic Ignition. Use with a starter solenoid/relay
to prevent burning out internal contacts in switch. Identification of terminals
in clockwise rotation are: I = Ignition; A = Auxiliary (lights, electric
PTO clutch, etc.); R = Rectifier; B = Battery (+); S = Solenoid (starter).
Key positions: OFF position = no contact; IGNITION position makes contact
with B+I+R+A; START position makes contact with B+I+R+S. Each terminal identified
for correct Wiring connections. If using an ammeter/amp gauge, connect the
gauge/meter to the battery positive (+) post, then to the B terminal on the
switch. Trace the wires on your tractor/equipment to see if they match the
terminals on this switch. If they don't match, the plug-in spade connectors/wires
can be rearranged in the plastic connector housing to match the corresponding
terminals on the switch. To do this, use a small flat blade screwdriver to
depress the locking tab/tang so the plug-in connector can be pulled out from
the plastic connector housing. Bend the locking tab/tang up slightly before
reinserting it in the plastic connector so it will be secured in place. Or
use #250
slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals
when connecting wires to switch. Requires 9/16" diameter mounting hole.
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 Brass Slide-On
Spade Wire Connector with Locking Tab/Tang. Replace damaged or broken OEM
connector in plastic connector housing used on most Off-Ignition-Start key
switches, voltage rectifier/regulators, etc. To remove old connector from
plastic housing, depress locking tab/tang from opposite the wire end with
a small flat screwdriver, and pull connector out of the housing. Solder or
use
terminal crimping pliers to install on wire. Before installing
the new connector, make sure locking tab/tang is slightly bent outward, and
slide connector into plastic housing in the correct position until it locks/snaps
in place. This part was never available from Kohler.
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 OFF-ON Main
Disconnect/Cutoff Switch. Use this 100 amp capacity electrical switch to
disconnect power to everything on the equipment. Connect between battery
negative (–) post and ground. Useful when equipment is not used for
a period of time to prevent a slow drain on the battery, prevent short circuits
when performing electrical service on equipment, or for a pulling tractor
to prevent accidental starts or to prevent sabotage at the pull sites from
disgruntled pullers. Copper terminals with brass hex nuts for improved
continuity. Comes with protective weather cap and two removable nylon key
locks. Mounting hardware not included.
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| Self-Energizing Solid State Electronic Ignition Coils
with molded-in Module. FYI - All self-energizing solid state electronic
ignition coils/modules require a self-grounding OFF-ON toggle/flip kill switch
to short circuit the primary windings in the coil to shut off the engine.
They do not need 12 volts of power because this will instantly burn up the
coil. And save the spark plug wire off the defective coil. It has a metal
core conductor, and with a battery coil
terminal and rubber boot installed,
it can be used in a battery-powered ignition system.
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 Self-Energizing
Solid State Electronic Ignition Coil with molded-in Magnetron™ Module. Fits
Briggs and Stratton horizontal and vertical shaft opposed (flathead) twin
cylinder engines. NOTE: Use with new Autolite or Champion copper
core/non-resistor spark plugs of the correct type gapped at .015" for longer
coil life. FYI - Any self-generating solid state ignition coil/modules
requires a self-grounding OFF-ON toggle/flip kill switch to short circuit
the primary windings in the coil to shut off the engine. They do not need
12 volts of power because this will burn it up. And save the spark plug wires
off the defective coil. They have a metal core conductor, and with a battery
coil terminal and rubber boot installed,
they can be used in a battery-powered ignition system.
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 Self-Energizing
Magneto Ignition Coil. Fits all Kohler engine models K91 with magneto ignition.
Spark plug wire (not included) inserts into coil. NOTE: Usually, the point
gap sets at .020", but sometimes it will need to be set as close as .015"
just to get a spark. This coil should produce a stronger spark when used
with a Universal Solid State Electronic Ignition
Module (see above). The short wire on the coil is for ground, the longer
wire connects to the ignition points and condenser/capacitor or
Universal Solid State Electronic Ignition
Module, and may need to be made longer depending on your application.
Dimensions: .500" x .500" square hole (across flats) x 1.700" O.D. x 1.080"
length. When installing, the coil must fit snug on the laminations to receive
the full effect of the magnetic field through the stator from the rotating
magnet(s) to fully energize the windings to create a strong spark. If the
laminations on your stator are too big for the hole in this coil, they can
be ground or filed smaller so the coil will fit snug, then bend one laminate
over to retain the coil. Or if the laminations are too small, thin strip(s)
of steel can be added as shim(s) so the coil will fit snug. (Sometimes one
must improvise when certain parts are obsolete.) Do not attempt to enlarge
the hole in the coil!
How
magneto coils produce a spark.
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 Self-Energizing
Magneto Ignition Coil. Fits various Kohler engine models K141, K161 and K181
with coil mounted on U-shaped ignition stator on bearing plate underneath
flywheel with magnet rotor on crankshaft. Will also fit various larger cast
iron block Clinton engines with coil mounted on cylinder, above flywheel.
Spark plug wire not included. This coil should produce a stronger spark when
used with a Universal Solid State Electronic
Ignition Module (see above). Dimensions: 1.750" diameter x 1.450" length
x .505" square hole.
NOTE: The magneto coil wrapped with varnish-coated paper (Kohler part # 210293), and the ignition stator assembly and ring shown above È are Discontinued from Kohler. If you have an engine without these parts and you can't locate them from any source, your only option is to convert the engine to the battery-powered ignition system. A small motorcycle battery or a rechargeable 12 volt sealed lead acid (SLA) battery with a minimum 4AH (Amp Hour) rating will need to be required to power the ignition, and with no charging system, a portable battery charger will need to be used to keep the battery fully charged when the tractor is not in use so the ignition will produce a strong spark. Avoid using a high-output/performance coil because these draw more power from the battery. |
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  Magneto Ignition Coils for certain Kohler K-series engine models
K181, K241, K301, K321 and K341 with points, condenser/capacitor and coil
located underneath flywheel. Common with engines mounted to a generator or
welder. Set spark plug gap at .025" with each coil. This coil should produce
a stronger spark when used with a Universal Solid
State Electronic Ignition Module (see above).
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| Ignition Coils for Kohler
engine models K141, K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341 and K361, and other
various makes and models of small engines (Tecumseh, etc.) with a 12 volt
ignition ignition system. Each can be used with ignition points and condenser
or A-1 Miller's custom crank-trigger and
flywheel-trigger electronic ignition systems. NOTE: Most failures
of battery ignition coils is caused by overcharging of the electrical system
due to a defective solid state electronic voltage rectifier/regulator or
defective [automotive] battery. Or the use of aged and deteriorated
suppression/carbon-core spark plug wire and/or an old resistor type spark
plug will also cause a good coil to eventually fail because the secondary
windings within the coil must build up more voltage, which cause the windings
to overheat and eventually burn up from producing excessive voltage to fire
the plug. Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an
ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging system.
IMPORTANT
- All coils will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points
closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent
this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON
[security] key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable
key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition
system.
New Aftermarket Black Casing Standard/Full-Size 12 Volt Canister-Type Oil-Filled Ignition Coil w/3.0 ohm internal primary resistor and mounting bracket. 20,000 volts output. Use with medium capacity condenser. Set spark plug gap at .035" with this coil. Replaces Kohler part # 41 519 21-S. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling. New Aftermarket Aluminum Casing Standard/Full-Size 12 Volt Canister-Type Oil-Filled Ignition Coil w/3.0 ohm internal primary resistor and mounting bracket. 20,000 volts output. Use with medium capacity condenser. Set spark plug gap at .035" with this coil. Replaces Kohler part # 41 519 21-S. $35.00 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Kohler Coil, part # 41 519 21-S. Replaces John Deere part # AM38411 and Tecumseh part # 32080. $88.61 each, plus shipping & handling. New High-Output/Performance Bosch Blue Standard/Full-Size 12 Volt Canister-Type Ignition Coil w/3.0 ohm internal primary resistor and mounting bracket. 30,000 volts output. Vibration-Resistant Epoxy-Filled. Set spark plug gap at .060" with this coil. Use with ignition points and two medium capacity condensers/capacitors or one high capacity/performance ignition condenser/capacitor for full coil saturation and a strong spark so engine will rev up to full speed, or can be used with ignition points and condenser or A-1 Miller's custom crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition kits. Set spark plug gap at .060" with this coil. This genuine Bosch blue coil is epoxy filled with a steel casing. All epoxy filled or molded epoxy coils will hold up to severe vibrations, can be mounted in any position and will not leak oil (because there is no oil). $60.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
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 New
1.6 Ohm Ballast Resistor for use with any 12 volt ignition coil not having
an internal resistor (above È) to prevent
excessive burning of points contacts, or use with the Chrysler / Dodge /
Plymouth electronic ignition control module/unit, or connect with coil having
a minimum 1.4 ohm internal primary resistor to prevent burning up the
Dynatek Dyna S electronic ignition control
modules. Install between the coil positive (+) terminal and wire coming from
the ignition switch to the coil. This will allow the points to possibly last
the life of the engine. NOTE: Ignition resistors with a higher
ohms value are
known as "Point Savers." The higher the ohms resistance in an ignition coil
or a ballast resistor has, the longer the ignition points will last (as long
as the points are installed clean, and doesn't become contaminated with dust,
oil, water, etc.). Any 12 volt ignition coil with an 3+ ohm internal primary
resistor connected to a minimum 1.6 ohm ballast resistor when used in a points
and condenser/capacitor ignition system will allow the points to possibly
last the life of the engine. Because the increased resistance allows a very
low current/voltage to pass through the contacts in the points. Also, a
suppression/carbon-core spark plug wire and resistor type spark plug shouldn't
be used in this system due to overheating of the ignition coil. Therefore,
it's best that a high temperature metal core conductor spark plug wire and
copper core/non-resistor spark plug be used. The ignition system will still
produce a strong spark because an average small engine requires only a fraction
of voltage from the coil. This is best to used with general lawn and garden,
snow removal, etc., and not for competitive pulling. Therefore, if it's not
already equipped, it's best to install an ammeter/amp
gauge to monitor the charging system.
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|
| Battery Ignition Coils for Kohler twin cylinder engine models
KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II. Can also be used on Kohler
twin cylinder engine models K482, K532, K582, K660/K662, Onan twin cylinder
engines or Harley-Davidson motorcycles with a fabricated bracket. Each coil
below produce a strong spark, and can be used with ignition points and condenser
or A-1 Miller's custom crank-trigger and
flywheel-trigger electronic ignition kits. NOTE: Use each coil with
new Autolite or Champion copper core/non-resistor spark plugs of the correct
type gapped at .025" each for longer coil life. And most failures of
battery-powered ignition coils is caused by the use of resistor type spark
plugs and/or overcharging of the electrical system due to a defective solid
state electronic voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery
which will cause a good coil to eventually fail because the secondary windings
within the coil overheat and eventually burn up from producing excessive
voltage to fire the plug(s). Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's
best to install an ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the
charging system.
IMPORTANT
- All coils will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points
closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent
this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON
[security] key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable
key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition
system.
High quality chrome-plated 4.0 ohm primary windings oil filled ignition coil with dual metal core conductor spark plug wires. Same diameter as OEM Kohler coil. 20,000 volts output. Includes: (1) dual tower chrome-plated ignition coil, (2) rubber spark plug wire grommets, (2) plastic thread-on coil boots, (2) 90º spark plug boots w/terminals, and (2) 18" length spark plug wires (can be shortened if desired). Coil dimensions: 4-1/4" length (excluding towers) x 2-1/8" body width x 2-1/4" tower end band width. Replaces Kohler part # 52 755 48-S. $64.00 each, plus shipping & handling. High quality aftermarket 4.0 ohm primary windings epoxy encapsulated ignition coil with metal core conductor spark plug wires. Same dimensions as OEM Kohler coil. Replaces Kohler part # 52 755 48-S. $118.00 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Kohler coil with spark plug wires; part # 52 755 48-S. $250.71 each, plus shipping and handing. |
|
 High Quality,
Epoxy Encapsulated, Battery-Powered Ignition Coils for Kohler twin cylinder
engine models K482, K532, K582, K660/K662 and Harley-Davidson motorcycles.
Can also be used on Kohler twin cylinder engine models KT17, KT17 Series
II, KT19 and KT19 Series II or Onan twin cylinder engines with a fabricated
bracket. Either coil below can be used with ignition points and condenser
or A-1 Miller's custom crank-trigger and
flywheel-trigger electronic ignition kits. Long terminal/stud connects
to ignition switch, short terminal/stud connects to points and a low capacity
condenser, or electronic ignition module. NOTE: Coil mounting bracket
not included - discontinued from Kohler; if needed, new mounting holes
can be drilled through coil's laminations next to existing holes to match
the holes in OEM Kohler mounting plate, or new holes can be drilled in the
OEM Kohler mounting plate to match the holes in the Harley coil. And
there is no positive (+) or negative (–) connections on the two small
terminals. They can be connected either way. And most failures of battery-powered
ignition coils is caused by overcharging of the electrical system due to
a defective solid state electronic voltage rectifier/regulator or defective
[automotive] battery will cause a good coil to eventually fail because the
secondary windings within the coil overheat and eventually burn up from producing
excessive voltage to fire the plug(s). Therefore, if it's not already equipped,
it's best to install an ammeter/amp gauge to monitor
the charging system. Use each coil with new Autolite or Champion copper
core/non-resistor spark plugs of the correct type gapped at .025" each and
with metal core conductor spark plug wires for longer coil life.
IMPORTANT
- All coils will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points
closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent
this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON
[security] key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with
a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition
system.
Metal Core Conductor Spark Plug Wires for Kohler engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532, K582, K660/K662, or Onan twin cylinder engines. 14" and 18" length each.
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 High Performance
Copper Core 7mm Spark Plug Wire Assemblies for Kohler engine models K161,
K181, K241, K301, K321, K341 and K361, or KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19
Series II, K482, K532, K582 (with wires cut to correct length) and other
makes and models of small engines with a 12 volt ignition ignition system.
Universal design for many applications. Copper strand core delivers maximum
energy with zero ohms resistance, which allows ignition coil to operate cooler
and last longer. Solid brass terminals for maximum conductivity and corrosion
resistance. Quality rubber boots keep out dirt and moisture for fast starts.
Engineered for reliability and long life. Spring-lock terminals insure positive
and fold for extra secure connection through the toughest conditions and
multiple spark plug changes. Can be used for general lawn & garden, or
for competition pulling. Don't be fooled by the dark color, these wires provide
100% voltage to the spark plug! Each come with terminals, one straight coil
boot and one angled spark plug boot, as shown in the image to the right.
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| Complete
Battery-Powered Ignition Conversion Kits - When Kohler's
OEM magneto or Breakerless Ignition fails, the engine can be converted to
a battery-powered ignition system. Battery-powered ignition systems last
longer, produces a stronger spark, and when a part goes bad, it doesn't cost
much to replace. It's a reliable, simple design and there's no guesswork
about it. FYI: Battery-powered ignition conversion kits are intended mainly
for various older engines when the OEM magneto or Breakerless Ignition no
longer produce a spark, replacement parts are not available, are very expensive
or cost prohibitive. (Sometimes one must improvise when certain parts are
obsolete.) Also, the most hassle when using battery-powered ignition without
a charging system integrated with the engine to recharge the battery is the
use of a remote battery charger. And eventually a new battery will need to
be purchased, because they only last a few years. For a battery to power
the ignition, a small, lightweight and rechargeable
12 volt sealed lead acid (SLA) battery with a minimum 4Ah
(Amp Hour) rating or a small
motorcycle battery can be used.
FYI - Kohler's Breakerless Ignition and Tecumseh's (cast iron engine) Solid State Ignition (SSI) systems use a [security] key switch that's also made for a self-energizing magneto or magneto-type solid state ignition system. Unlike the key switch for a battery-powered ignition system, the Breakerless Ignition is self-energizing, and to kill the engine, the key switch grounds out or shorts the [low voltage] circuit between the energizing coil and ignition module. And the battery-powered key switch opens the circuit to kill the engine. So with the battery-powered points and condenser ignition system (along with a 12 volt coil), you will need to use a battery-powered key switch, or an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or [security] key switch to power the ignition and a momentary push button switch to crank the engine could be used instead. If swapping out the OEM Breakerless Ignition, SSI, magneto or solid state ignition key switch for a battery-powered ignition key switch, the wire connectors in the wiring harness plug will need to be rearranged to match the terminals on the key switch to power the ignition, crank the engine and run other electrical accessories. I've done this before on some of my customer's garden tractors and it works great. Click or tap here for battery-powered ignition wiring diagrams. |
|
 Personally,
I had a customer's John Deere model 110 with a K181 Kohler engine with magneto
ignition and a 10 amp alternator charging system (the ignition coil and charging
coils was on the same stator plate) in our shop for repairs. The engine would
start right up and idle well, but not rev up. It would just die out when
throttled up. So I cleaned the entire carburetor, including clearing out
anything that may have been in the main jet, tried a new Autolite 295 copper
core spark plug gapped at .025", installed a new magneto ignition coil, different
flywheel, different stator assembly, but the engine would still die out,
no matter what.  The OEM magneto
ignition/charging system would not produce a strong spark, which wouldn't
allow the engine to rev up. This ignition system is obviously a notorious,
poor design from Kohler. Although this ignition/charging system is still
available from Kohler, Kohler discontinued installing this on their engines
only after a short time (for an obvious reason). Anyway, I had no choice
but to convert the engine to the more reliable battery-powered ignition system.
Being the 110 has a small engine compartment with a confined space, there
is no place to mount a full-size canister 12 volt ignition coil. So I fastened
a new small size epoxy encapsulated 12 volt 3.5 ohm ignition coil on the
carburetor side of the flywheel shroud sheet metal. I removed the flywheel
shroud, located where to drill two 7/32" holes to mount the coil, and tack-welded
a couple of 10-24 UNC or 10-32 UNF nuts to the inside of the shroud. Then
I used a couple of spacers for the coil, and fastened the coil to the shroud
with a couple of matching 10-24 UNC or 10-32 UNF screws with split lock washers.
(The coil looked nice on the engine, like it is factory installed.) I could
have tack-welded the head of the screws on the inside of the flywheel shroud
instead, and fastened the coil with a couple of nuts on the screws from the
outside. Either way would've worked fine. Anyway, then I replaced the OEM
110 off-ignition-start magneto key switch with a new battery-powered
off-ignition-start key switch. I traced each wire from the OEM key switch
and rearranged the slide-on spade connectors in the plastic connector housing
on the switch to match the terminals on the battery-powered key switch and
connected the "I" terminal on the switch to the (+) terminal on the coil
so the ignition system will work. I also reused the same ignition points
and [small size] condenser with this small size coil. (My customer previously
installed new points and condenser.) The magneto ignition condenser worked
great with the small coil. I set the spark plug gap at .030" with this small
coil. When I finished, the engine started right up, idled smoothly, and revved
up at full throttle with no hesitation or misfire. See the picture to the
right of this setup. If you have a similar ignition problem like this and
if you're interested, I offer all the parts, including a new small size epoxy
encapsulated 12 volt 3.5 ohm ignition coil, that can be used to convert the
magneto ignition to battery-powered ignition in your tractor. See the complete
ignition conversion kit(s) below. I also can convert your tractor from a
faulty magneto ignition to the more reliable battery-powered ignition if
you don't mind bringing your tractor to my shop. - Brian Miller
Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any
of these parts or services. |
|
| Convert virtually any single cylinder, air-cooled cast
iron or various aluminum block small gas engine, such as Kohler, Tecumseh,
Briggs & Stratton, Clinton, etc., with a failed magneto ignition system
to the battery-powered ignition system. NOTE: Must use a
universal automotive off/ignition/start key switch, or
a push-button switch to crank the engine with an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch
or [security] key switch to power this ignition. Reuse same type of spark
plug and existing ignition points (if in good condition), but set the point
gap at .020" or set ignition timing at 20º BTDC. See ignition kits and
wiring diagram below Ê.
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|
| New points, condensers/capacitors, coils and spark plugs for other makes and models of engines are also available. Please call or email A-1 Miller's for your needs. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any of the above È parts. | |
Get That
Old, Antique Small Engine Running Again with 21st Century
Technology Using 100% Reliable Digital Electronic Ignition, Even When New
Placement Parts Are Obsolete or Cost-Prohibited!
Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any
of these parts or services. [Return
to previous paragraph, section or website] [Top of Page]
This is the era of modern wonders, where everything is transistorized, digitized and miniaturized. Yet even today, many garden tractor pullers still use breaker point ignitions on their garden pulling tractors. For other people, the frustration of attempting to keep a breaker point-fired tractor in peak running condition has been enough of a reason to join the electronic era. Breaker point systems do have some positives, though. Points are cheap and somewhat easy to install. And many people are comfortable with installing their own points. The bad side of using points is, besides the points contacts burning, pitting and wearing out, if or when the point gap gets too narrow, the ignition timing can get retarded, and when it gets too wide, the timing will become too advanced.
When the timing is retarded, the engine may be difficult to start, and when does start, it may not idle well, and it'll lack sufficient power. Also, with retarded timing, all of the fuel in the combustion chamber will not be burned. Part of the raw fuel will exit out of the exhaust, while the rest will remain in the chamber combustion and cling to the cylinder wall, causing the lubricating oil (from the crankcase) to become diluted. When this happens, "cylinder wash down" will result. Cylinder wash down is when the gas dilutes the thin coat of oil on the cylinder wall, and the piston rings will no longer be adequately lubricated, causing them to wear excessively, resulting in a smoky engine overtime. Cylinder wash down can also happen to a diesel engine when the fuel injectors are "turned up" or fuel delivery is increased so the engine will produce more power. (It will also blow a lot more black smoke out the exhaust.)
But when the ignition timing is too advanced, this will cause the engine to run too hot, which will likely cause the piston to swell, allowing it to make metal to metal contact against the cylinder wall, causing excessive wear. And the rings will lose their expansion against the cylinder wall as well. Eventually, due to the lose-fitting piston in the cylinder, the engine will create a rattling sound and start smoking out the exhaust, and it will ultimately need to be rebuilt.
If installed correctly, when the ignition is triggered by the flywheel, this stabilizes the ignition timing, so you won't ever have to worry about it changing. The engine will produce more power and you will have more confidence that the engine will last longer. So for the utmost precision ignition timing and maintenance-free convenience, flywheel-trigger electronic ignition is the way to go! This ignition system produces a strong spark. It will allow the engine to start quicker, idle smooth and rev up to full throttle with no hesitation or misfire.
Tired of changing or constantly adjusting the ignition points? Convert to the 100% digitized flywheel-trigger electronic ignition! For improved performance, easier starting, and less moving parts to leave your tractor dead on the track. Shock and moisture resistant, and all it takes is a few simple hand tools to install. In my opinion, getting rid of the points and condenser/capacitor has been the best advance ever in engine technology.
FYI - Kohler's Breakerless Ignition and Tecumseh's (cast iron engine) Solid State Ignition (SSI) systems use a key switch that's also made for a self-energizing magneto or magneto-type solid state ignition system. Unlike the key switch for a battery-powered ignition system, the Breakerless Ignition is self-energizing, and to kill the engine, the key switch grounds out or shorts the [low voltage] circuit between the energizing coil and ignition module. And the battery-powered key switch opens the circuit to kill the engine. So with the battery-powered points and condenser ignition system (along with a 12 volt coil), you will need to use a battery-powered key switch, or an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or [security] key switch to power the ignition and a momentary push button switch to crank the engine could be used instead. If swapping out the OEM Breakerless Ignition, SSI, magneto or solid state ignition key switch for a battery-powered ignition key switch, the wire connectors in the wiring harness plug will need to be rearranged to match the terminals on the key switch to power the ignition, crank the engine and run other electrical accessories. I've done this before on some of my customer's garden tractors and it works great. Click or tap here for battery-powered ignition wiring diagrams.
FYI - I've sold many various custom electronic ignition systems for the past several years and haven't received one complaint from a customer about the performance of their engine. Because I use technology that I learned from experiences with my competitive competition pulling engines to help factory stock lawn & garden engines perform better. And as a matter of fact, other people have emailed me or called me to complain to me about my competitor's Tecumseh replacement ignition systems. They said their tech help was of no use. No joke. Apparently, my competitors haven't quite figured it out yet.
Solid State Electronic Ignition Module - | Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any of these parts or services. | [Top of Page]
Replace the Points and Condenser in a Magneto Ignition System with
a Universal Solid State Electronic Ignition Module
Wiring Diagram and Installation Instructions for Universal Solid State Electronic Magneto Ignition Module are as follows:
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| 3/16"
Plug to Replace Kohler Points Pushrod. Use in Kohler engine models
K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, K482, K532
and K582 when converting from magneto to solid state ignition (above), Magnum
solid state ignition, flywheel- or crank-trigger
electronic ignition (further down in this website). Install with a medium
size hammer; fits very tight. OEM Briggs & Stratton part #'s 231143,
692882. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Block-Off Plate to Cover Kohler Points Pushrod Hole. Use in Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582 when converting from magneto to solid state ignition (above), Magnum solid state ignition, or flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition (further down in this website). Made of 1/8" thickness aluminum or steel. Apply RTV silicone sealant to prevent oil leak and use OEM ignition points mounting screws to secure in place. A-1 Miller part. An original, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat product of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.) $4.00 each, plus shipping & handling. NOTE: The alternative to using either of the above items is to remove the ignition points and points pushrod. Place the pushrod on a flat, hard surface, and use a hammer and sharp flat cold chisel to lightly create knurled raised places or marks midway on the pushrod. Then install the pushrod in the engine block with the hammer. The knurling will retain the pushrod in place. [Return to previous paragraph, section or website] |
Converting the Ignition System on a Kohler Engine with the Starter/Generator and 8" Flywheel to Maintenance-Free Flywheel-Triggered Electronic Ignition -
Flywheel-Trigger Ignition Kit for Kohler engine models K141,
K160/K161, K181, K241, K301 and K321 with the small (8") diameter flywheel
and starter/generator. The PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor electronic
ignition sends more energy to the coil, which delivers twice the voltage
to the spark plug, increasing horsepower, engine efficiency and spark plug
life. Hall Effect integrated circuit means no points to burn, and no moving
parts to wear out. Epoxy molding makes the module impervious to dirt, oil,
grease and moisture. Stable timing - no need for any adjustments. This simple
and reliable ignition system produces a strong spark, and the ignition timing
will always be set at the factory recommended 20º BTDC, or wherever
you set it. This system can be used on ordinary lawn & garden engines
or for competition pulling engines (if rules permit). This ignition system
may outlast the life of the engine. This revolutionizes the ignition system
for older cast iron block Kohler engines with the starter/generator and 8"
flywheel! The PerTronix Ignitor must be used with a minimum 3.0 ohm coil
or it may burn up. Most small engine battery ignition coils have a 3.0 ohm
internal primary resistor. But test your coil just to make sure!
Click or tap here
to learn how to test the ohms resistance in a coil. Kit includes: New
PerTronix Ignitor non-magnetic sensor/module, aluminum spacer, thermal grease
and mounting screws, small ring magnet/rubber cushioning/isolator washer/mounting
screw (weighs 1/10 oz. / 6 grams), and plug for the points pushrod hole.
Complete Kit: $96.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
Directions to Install This Kit -
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If a Kohler flywheel has no projection (hump) or OEM protruding bolt head for Breakerless Ignition, but does have a 3/4" wide area between the fins and ring gear (as shown in the pictures above È), or a billet steel flywheel, to use a magnetic pickup coil, 3-wire inductive (detects iron/steel) proximity sensor, a small, short steel Phillips or button head socket head (Allen) screw and a minimum 1/4" length aluminum spacer secured with a split lock washer or high strength liquid threadlocker (Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent) can be used as the signal detection for the flywheel-trigger electronic ignition. A steel dowel pin or knurled steel pin could be used instead of a screw or spiral pin, but because of exerted centrifugal force, the screw would be more secure due to its thread retention. FYI - Store a container of liquid threadlocker or Super Glue upright and not laying flat. The capped tip will not dry out and clog when stored upright.
The curvature or dome shaped heads of button- and Phillips-head screws makes them ideal for use on a trigger disc or flywheel. Spark occurs at the leading (high side) edge of the hump or screw, and not in the center of the hump or screw. When the magnetic pickup coil or cube-shaped proximity sensor is at the leading edge of the hump and when the S mark on the flywheel is aligned with the raised mark on the bearing plate, it is at this point the timing is at 20º BTDC. But if the flywheel has the 3/4" wide area, but no projection or hump", with the magnetic pickup coil or cube-shaped proximity sensor installed on the bearing plate and the 20º BTDC mark on the flywheel aligned with the raised mark on the bearing plate.
When using an inductive proximity sensor, being proximity sensors detect a farther distance (up to 3/16") than a magnetic pickup coil, install a 3/4" length steel screw with a 1/4" length aluminum spacer (to retain flywheel balance). This will extend the detectable target 1/4" above the surface of the flywheel to prevent an out of time spark occurrence by part of the flywheel itself. Or if using a non-magnetic pickup coil, 3-wire hall effect proximity sensor or a non-magnetic PerTronix Ignitor sensor/module, a small ring magnet fastened by a small screw can be used to create a rotating magnet detection target. The head of the screw will become magnetized.
An 8-32 UNC (coarse thread) and 10-32 UNF (fine thread) x 1/2" length screws with a split lock washer (and small magnet) only weighs about 1/10 of an ounce or 3 grams, so this will not make the flywheel significantly noticeably or dangerously out of balance. But if you're concerned about the flywheel being out of balance with the target screw/bolt, pin or screw w/ring magnet installed, the flywheel can be static balanced by weighing the flywheel and screw/bolt, pin or screw w/ring magnet separately on a precision scale, make a note of the exact weight of each item, and either install a stainless steel screw of the same exact weight as the trigger screw and magnet on the opposite side of the flywheel (180º apart), or drill a couple of shallow holes into the flywheel next to or beside the installed target screw/bolt, pin or screw w/ring magnet to put the flywheel back in balance. Make sure the flywheel is perfectly clean of dirt and debris, too. Actually, it's best to have the flywheel with the target screw/bolt, pin or screw w/ring magnet installed dynamically precision spin-balanced on a automotive balancing machine. Again, make sure the flywheel is perfectly clean of dirt and debris.
And for the ignition timing to be set at 20º BTDC, with the S mark on the flywheel and raised line on the bearing plate aligned, the screw will need to be located at 2-3/8" when using a magnetic pickup coil or proximity sensor. This setup can be adapted to a Kohler engine with the flywheel that has the starter/generator and gear starter alike. Or it can be applied to an engine with a steel flywheel for competition pulling. And the mounting holes in the angled bracket for the magnetic pickup coil can be elongated for precise adjustment/setting of the timing. If there's already a projection (hump) or OEM protruding bolt head on the flywheel, then there's no need to modify the flywheel for this conversion or upgrade. If they're not already present, new 10-24 UNC (coarse thread) threads will need to be drilled and tapped in the two raised bosses in the bearing plate to mount the bracket for the sensor's bracket. An original, ingenious, thoroughly researched and innovative concept invented by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this for use on a small engine. Please accept no advertised copycat product of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.)
Information About Converting from Kohler's Breakerless Ignition to
Battery-Powered Points/Condenser Ignition:
The single wire that comes from the stator under
the flywheel for the Kohler Trigger Module or Tecumseh Solid State Ignition
Module generates about 250 volts (serious) while the engine is running at
full governed speed. Do not touch this terminal with one bare hand and the
engine with your other hand while the engine is running! It is not needed
for any of my custom-made crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition
systems. So snip off this wire or tape up the terminal securely to prevent
a short circuit or risk of electrocution. And there is a brass
block-off cup plug in the points pushrod hole. This will need to be removed
for the points pushrod. To remove this plug, carefully and gently drill a
3/32" pilot hole through the plug, then use a #6
self-tapping drywall screw with Vise-Grips to pull the
plug out of the hole. Because the self-tapping drywall screw by itself may
not be able to bore a hole through the plug without pushing it deeper into
the drilled hole. And do not force the drill bit into the plug or it could
fall inside the crankcase! And a 3/16" drill bit or hand reamer may need
to be used to clean out any debris from the pushrod hole. After the points
is installed, and with the piston positioned at TDC on the compression stroke,
set the point gap at .020". Or better yet, set the ignition
timing at 20º BTDC, and reuse the same type of spark plug gapped
at .035".
Custom Electronic Ignition Kits (below) for Converting to Flywheel-Trigger Ignition for Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321, K341, K361 that came with points/condenser ignition or with Breakerless Ignition. Do away with the old fashioned points and condenser ignition, or defective and cost-prohibitive Breakerless Ignition components, and convert your engine to the reliability, dependability and durability of flywheel-trigger ignition! NOTE: Engine must have the large bearing plate with two mounting bosses to install the triggering device and 9" flywheel with 3/4" wide area with the OEM projection (hump), OEM protruding bolt head, or install a small screw/bolt (so the sensor can detect it). Must also use an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; for ignition) and momentary push-button switch (to crank the engine) for ignition system below Ê. With this ignition setup, the ignition timing will be set at 20º BTDC, and reuse same type of spark plug, but set gap at .035" for a stronger spark. IMPORTANT - On the Breakerless Ignition, the wire that comes from the stator under the flywheel generates about 250 volts (serious) while the engine is running at full governed speed. Do not touch this wire (terminal) with one bare hand and the engine with your other hand while the engine is running! This wire is not required with any of my custom flywheel-trigger electronic ignition systems. So snip off this wire or tape up the terminal to prevent a short circuit or electrocution.
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Option #1 - Convert from OEM Kohler Breakerless Ignition to A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition Kit. This ignition system operates with full 12 volts and produce a strong spark. It will allow the engine to start quicker, idle smooth and rev up to full throttle with no hesitation or misfire. This ignition system may outlast the life of the engine. This revolutionizes the ignition system for older cast iron block Kohler engines! NOTE - This ignition system operates with 12 volts of power. The OEM key switch for Breakerless Ignition will not work with any battery-powered ignition systems. The switch used with Breakerless Ignition is actually a magneto ignition switch, which when the engine is shut-down, it grounds the self-energizing wire connected to the ignition. And battery ignition requires a switch that disconnects the coil from the power source (battery). So with my this ignition system, you will need either an OFF-ON-START battery-ignition key switch, or an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition) and a momentary push button switch (to crank the engine). Go here for choice of switches. To install this replacement ignition system; the ignition coil mounts in place of the Breakerless Ignition coil; the proximity cube sensor/bracket mounts in place of the Breakerless Trigger Module; and the GM HEI ignition control module with thermal paste (to dissipate the operating heat) fastens on the backside of the bearing plate, on the left side when facing the flywheel. Two 9/64" holes will need to be drilled and tapped to mount the module. (Sometimes one must improvise when certain parts are obsolete.) This kit has a limited one year warranty. Kit Includes:
Option #2 - Complete Kit
to Convert from Kohler's Breakerless Ignition to Battery-Powered Points and
Condenser Ignition with a Full-Size Canister-Type 12 Volt Ignition Coil.
New parts include: 12 volt 3.0 ohm full-size canister-type ignition coil
w/mounting bracket, 11" length metal core conductor spark plug wire, medium
capacity condenser/capacitor, ignition points, stainless steel points pushrod,
points cover, points cover gasket, four 10-24 UNC Phillips head screws w/lock
washers, Autolite 216 or Champion 844 (H10C) spark plug, and 12" cut-to-length
16 gauge coil-to-points wire w/grommet and terminals. Set spark plug gap
at .035" with this system. NOTE - This ignition system operates with 12
volts of power. The OEM key switch for Breakerless Ignition will not work
with any battery-powered ignition systems. The switch used with Breakerless
Ignition is actually a magneto ignition switch, which when the engine is
shut-down, it grounds the self-energizing wire connected to the ignition.
And battery ignition requires a switch that disconnects the coil from the
power source (battery). So with my this ignition system, you will need either
an OFF-ON-START battery-ignition key switch, or an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch
or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition) and
a momentary push button switch (to crank the engine). Go
here for choice of switches.
IMPORTANT
- All coils will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points
closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent
this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key
switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead
of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition
system.
Option #3 - Convert from Battery-Powered Points and Condenser Ignition to A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition System. This is for Kohler engines with a 9-1/2" flywheel that has the 3/4" wide edge with the projection (hump). This ignition system produces a strong spark. It will allow the engine to start quicker, idle smooth and rev up to full throttle with no hesitation or misfire. To install this replacement ignition system; the ignition coil mounts in the usual location; the proximity cube sensor/bracket mounts on the two bosses located at the 10:30 position on the bearing plate; and the GM HEI ignition control module fastens on the backside of the bearing plate, on the left side when facing the flywheel. Two 9/64" holes will need to be drilled and tapped to mount the module. The original key switch can be used with this ignition system. This kit has a limited one year warranty. The OEM OFF-ON-START battery-powered key switch, or a momentary push button switch (to crank the engine) and an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition) CAN be used with this ignition system. Kit Includes:
3/16"
Plug to Replace Kohler Points Pushrod. Use in all Kohler K-series
single cylinder engines, and K482, K532 and K582 opposed twin cylinder engines
when converting engine for use with a Universal
Solid State Electronic Ignition Module, to Kohler Magnum solid state
ignition, or
flywheel-
or crank-trigger electronic ignition. Fits very tight; install with a
medium size hammer. OEM Briggs & Stratton part #'s 231143, 692882.
$6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Block-Off Plate to Cover Kohler Points Pushrod Hole. Use on Kohler K-series engines when converting to Kohler Magnum solid state ignition, or Kohler KT-series KT17, KT19 engines when converting to Kohler Magnum solid state ignition, or flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition, or K482, K532 and K582 opposed twin cylinder engines when converting to flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition. Made of 1/8" thickness steel. Apply RTV silicone sealant to prevent an oil leak and OEM ignition points mounting screws to secure in place. A-1 Miller part. An original, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat product of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.) $4.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
NOTE: An alternative to using the above items, remove the ignition points and points pushrod. Place the pushrod on a flat, hard surface, and use a sharp flat cold chisel and hammer to lightly create knurled raised places on the pushrod. Then install the pushrod in the engine block with a hammer. The knurled places will retain the pushrod in the block. [Return to previous paragraph, section or website]
A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Replacement Electronic Ignition System for Cast Iron Block Tecumseh Engines
Replacement Tecumseh Electronic Ignition Kit with Inductive PerTronix Ignitor. (Detects short firing pin in flywheel.) Includes: new PerTronix Ignitor Inductive module/sensor and new high quality, high energy, small-size epoxy encapsulated ignition coil w/integrated copper core spark plug wire, both fastened on aluminum mounting plate, new Autolite 295 or Champion J8C spark plug, new momentary push-button switch (to crank the engine; optional) and new OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition; optional). Installation Instructions for Replacement Tecumseh Electronic Ignition System with the Inductive PerTronix Ignitor:
Installation Instructions for Replacement Tecumseh Electronic Ignition System with the Hall Effect PerTronix Ignitor:
How to Start the Engine with Either Ignition System Above -
(Posted 8/24/20) FYI - I've been getting several emails from people who purchased another type of custom-made electronic ignition system for Tecumseh engines from another person online, and if you're experiencing problems with this system, you will need to complain to the person you purchased it from. Because being I'm not familiar with another man's custom ignition system, the advice I give you to get your engine running right may not be 100% accurate. It'll be like a Chevrolet car dealer trying to tell someone how to fix a Ford vehicle. I thoroughly tested all my custom electronic ignition systems that I offer in my websites, and they work flawlessly. - Brian Miller |
If you would like to purchase
any of the parts or services listed in this website, and/or for FREE professional
and honest technical assistance and support, please contact: A-1 Miller's
Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri)
65203-9136 USA | Phone:
1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice
message, please speak slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except
holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later.
(When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1
Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends,
except holidays. Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your
arrival. E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we
can provide many more high quality parts and professional
services.)
A-1 Miller's Custom
Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit for Kohler opposed twin
cylinder engine models KT17 Series II and KT19 Series II. This ignition
system works flawlessly! Replaces points and condenser. Ignition points can
be removed and the points pushrod hole can be permanently plugged with a
short self-tapping 1/4" bolt, Allen set screw or
clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant. The ignition system
listed below works excellent with the OEM Kohler twin cylinder ignition coil
to produce a strong, reliable spark.
NOTE: Two bosses on the #1 cylinder
(right side when facing flywheel) must be
drilled and tapped
to accept 1/4-20 UNC x 1" mounting bolts (drill only 3/4" deep; do not drill
all the way through the cylinder wall!), and a specific location on the edge
of the flywheel must be
drilled and tapped
to accept the 6-32 UNC (coarse thread) detectable target screw or magnet
w/cushioning/isolator rubber washer and screw. The sensor is activated by
the South pole of the magnet, so do not remove the screw from the magnet!
Install screw in flywheel with
high strength liquid threadlocker
(Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent), and tighten
screw w/magnet just when the rubber washer begin to bulge. FYI
- Store a container of liquid threadlocker or Super Glue upright and not
laying flat. The capped tip will not dry out and clog when stored upright.
An original, ingenious and innovative concept design invention by Brian Miller.
These ignition systems will not work on the KT17 and KT19 first design engines
because there are no bosses on the cylinder(s) to drill for bolt holes to
mount the ignition bracket. However, the cylinder(s) off a KT17 Series II,
MV16, M18 and MV18 will work on a KT17 first design engine, and the cylinder(s)
off a KT19 Series II, M20 and MV20 engine will work on a KT19 first design
engine. The only difference between the KT17, KT17 Series II, MV16, M18 and
MV18 cylinders, and KT19, KT19 Series II, M20 and MV20 cylinders is the length
of the valves. I realize this would be a lot of work just to use electronic
ignition on a KT17 or KT19 first design engine, but this is the best way
of making it happen. Scroll down for more information.
For General Yard & Garden Work, or Competition Pulling. This ignition system produce a strong spark. It will allow the engine to start quicker, idle smooth and rev up to full throttle with no hesitation or misfire. Complete Flywheel-Trigger Ignition Kit for the Flywheel End of Opposed Twin Cylinder Kohler engine models KT17 Series II and KT19 Series II. This ignition system may outlast the life of the engine. This revolutionizes the ignition system for the opposed twin cylinder Kohler engines! Use this setup for durability instead of points and condenser. Use with the OEM off/ignition/start key switch and ignition coil. Simple two wire hook-up; RED wire on module/sensor connects to 12 volt ignition switch (battery positive (+) post), and BLACK wire on module/sensor connects to coil negative (–) terminal. Kit includes PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor w/mounting bracket and hardware, and small magnet/screw/cushioning washer. PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor is triggered by a small magnet fastened in a specific place on edge of flywheel. Use the OEM ignition coil with metal core spark plug wires and copper core spark plugs gapped at .025" each. FYI - The module is diode-protected, and will NOT burn up if the wires are connected in reverse with power supplied. But the module will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller because nobody else advertise this kind of ignition setup.
Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any of these parts or services. [Return to previous paragraph, section or website] [Top of Page]
Be Ahead of the Competition
with 21st Century Technology Using 100% Reliable Digital Electronic
Ignition! Please contact A-1 Miller's
if you're interested in any of these parts or services.
[Return to previous paragraph, section
or website] [Top of Page]
FYI - I can install a Custom crank-trigger electronic ignition system and/or rewire your lawn & garden tractor, equipment or garden pulling tractor so all the electrical accessories will work and the engine will start quickly every time. I have the knowledge, skills, all the tools and parts necessary to perform a quality job. I've rewired many customer's lawn & garden tractor/equipment or garden pulling tractor with great results. If you're interested, Click or tap here for my phone numbers, address and directions to my shop. - Brian Miller
A new way to revolutionize the ignition system on virtually any small gas engine! Virtually trouble- and maintenance-free, and water-proof. These ignition modules/sensors is a small, lightweight, compact and completely self-contained electronic ignition system built with the latest state-of-the-art engineering with the use of microelectronics. Fits entirely on the engine block; no ignition box and additional wiring to clutter the engine compartment because the electronic ignition control module and pickup coil/sensor are contained in the same sealed casing. The Dynatek Dyna S sensor/module produce a strong spark. They will allow the engine to start quicker, idle smooth and rev up to full throttle with no hesitation or misfire.
The Dynatek Dyna S sensor/module operates on 12-1/2 to 15 volts negative ground, and requires an ignition coil with a minimum 3.0 ohm internal primary resistor to prevent from burning up the module. Using a coil with less than total of 3.0 ohms of primary resistance for a long period of time will cause the module to overheat and the engine may misfire until it cools down, or the sensor/module might fail prematurely. A metal conductor spark plug wire, and copper core/non-resistor spark plug should be used. If the voltage drops below the minimum requirement for either sensor/module, the engine may idle well, but not rev up, or the engine may run erratic. Either module/sensor can be used with a standard-output/stock or high-output/performance ignition coil, as long as the coil has a 3.0 ohm internal primary resistor, or a ballast resistor is connected that totals 3.0 ohms of resistance. These sensor/modules should not be used with magneto-type ignition coils, being magneto coils have a 1.0 ohm internal primary resistor. A metal core conductor spark plug wire can be used with either sensor/module.
These maintenance-free crank-trigger electronic ignition setups have been thoroughly tested and proven very reliable for general lawn and work, and all classes of single and twin cylinder competition pulling engines. One sensor/module is needed for an opposed twin cylinder engine, and two modules/sensors spaced precisely at 90º apart are required for V-twin engines. These are the same ignition used by professional pullers everywhere. Reliable at high RPMs, the Dynatek Dyna S or PerTronix Ignitor modules provides unlimited RPM. They will allow the ignition system to operate at the speed of electricity (which can be anywhere from about 50% to 99% of the speed of light, depending upon the quality of the electronic components and wiring connections).
Spark occurs when the magnet embedded in an aluminum locking set screw collar, which is much like an automotive reluctor ring, that's fastened on the crankshaft's PTO end passes the sensor/module. These sensors/modules packs a lot of punch and allows the ignition system operate at 100% efficiency for a stronger spark. When wired correctly, it's normal for the flywheel- and crank-trigger ignition systems to make a spark when first powered up. And if it makes a spark as the sensor passes the metal target object, then the ignition system is working as it should.
Dynatek Dyna S Maintenance-Free Crank-Trigger Electronic Ignition Installation Instructions -
Our universal flat mounting plate can be adapted for use on various makes and models of one or two cylinder (twin opposing cylinders) engines by drilling new mounting holes. And being there are so many different bolt patterns on the PTO end of Kohler and other makes and models of engines, these are not a simple "one kit fits all" bolt-on ignition kit. Therefore, customer will need to locate and drill holes in the mounting plate in alignment with the bolt holes on the PTO end of the engine block. If there are no bolt hole(s) on the PTO end of the block, they will need to be drilled and tapped. Minimum of 1/4" bolts can be used. Locate and drill (machine) slotted adjustment holes in the mounting plate, fasten plate to PTO end of engine block. And then drill and cut 4-40 NC threads in the mounting plate for positioning/clearance of the sensor/module clearance to the locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet. Additional spacing of modules/sensor may be required so magnet will be aligned with the center of the sensor on various applications. Air gap/clearance between the sensor/module and locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet is .010"-.050". Sensor/module may not operate or engine may misfire if gap is wider than .060". When mounting the GM 4-pin HEI module, always fasten it with thermal paste (to dissipate the operating heat) on a clean, flat aluminum plate with plenty of cool air circulation to dissipate the heat while in operation. NOTE: Do not allow sensor/module to make contact with locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet while engine is running!
NOTE: The Dynatek Dyna S crank-trigger ignition kit with the locking set screw collar w/target magnet or screw (just below Ê) installs and operate off the PTO end of the engine block, and is intended for competition pulling only. The set screw collar is specifically for competition pulling engines, because these engines have nothing on the PTO end of the crankshaft, such as a clutch assembly. The set screw collar can't work on the flywheel end because there's no place to mount it. Click HERE for Custom electronic ignition kits that operates off the flywheel end of the engine. These can be used for stock competition pulling engines and/or ordinary lawn & garden engines.
Designed Specifically for Single Cylinder Garden Pulling Tractors, these Self-Contained 12 Volt High Performance Dyna S Kit is Integrated with a Durable High Energy Ignition Coil Are Built with the Latest State-of-the-Art Engineering. Thoroughly tested and proven to be very reliable. Self-contained and very compact. Each kit includes: Sensor/module, coil, bracket and locking set screw collar w/embedded detector/target magnet. No need for a separate/remote-mounted ignition coil and additional wiring. Unlike the advertised competition, these module/sensor and coil ignition kits are fastened to a sturdy aluminum plate which fastens on the PTO end of the engine block. Customer may have to drill and tap the block to mount the crank-trigger or modify the bracket if necessary. Each ignition kit comes prewired with one or two simple wire connection(s): Connect the RED wire to the ignition switch (battery positive (+) post), and connect the BLACK wire to the self-grounding killswitch (if equipped), or snip off the black wire if not needed. Set the air gap/clearance between sensor and magnet in locking set screw collar at .010"-.050", and set spark plug gap at .035". Please specify diameter of crankshaft PTO end for locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet. Most common crankshaft PTO end diameters are 1" and 1-1/8", but 3/4", 1-1/4", 1-3/8", 1-7/16" and 1-1/2" are rare. Most billet steel crankshafts have a 1-1/2" diameter PTO end (raised shoulder). Please specify diameter of crankshaft PTO end for locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet. Made in USA. Picture and video of each product coming soon.
Wiring Directions for the Module Shown Below: Connect the BLACK wire
on module to the negative (–) terminal on the ignition coil (and to
nothing else), and connect the RED wire
on the module to the positive (+) terminal on the coil and to the ignition
switch , which is connected to the positive (+) battery post. FYI - Unlike
the competition of this part, the module is diode-protected, and will NOT
burn up if the wires are connected in reverse with power supplied.
But the
module will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few
minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening
and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master
disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch
to power the ignition system.
Dynatek Dyna S Sensor/Module
Fastened on Aluminum Mounting Plate and Locking Set Screw Collar w/Embedded
Magnet. This ignition system produce a strong spark. It will allow the
engine to start quicker, idle smooth and rev up to full throttle with no
hesitation or misfire. Can be used on Kohler 10-16hp single or opposed twin
cylinder horizontal shaft engines. Ignition module fastens on PTO end of
engine block, and coil mounts remotely on side of flywheel shroud or elsewhere
in engine compartment. Ignition coil not included, purchase separately.
Must be used with a minimum 3.0 ohm coil regardless
of the voltage output to prevent from burning up module. Set the
clearance between the module and locking collar at .010"-.050".
IMPORTANT
- Gently rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand to check and see that
the module does not make contact with the locking collar. Do not allow the
module make contact with the locking collar while the engine is
running!
Wiring instructions: Connect
RED wire to coil positive (+) terminal
and to ignition switch (battery positive (+) post), and connect BLACK
wire to coil negative (–) terminal. FYI - Unlike the competition of
this part, FYI - Unlike the competition of this part, the module is
diode-protected, and will NOT burn up if the wires are connected in reverse
with power supplied.
But the
module will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few
minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening
and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master
disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch
to power the ignition system. NOTE: Slotted mounting
holes will be machined in the ignition plate. If the bolt holes in the PTO
end of the block don't match the ones in the plate or if bolt holes are not
present, then new bolt holes will need to be drilled and tapped in the engine
block. This ignition setup is pictured above. $80.00 per kit,
plus shipping & handling.
Self-Contained Ignition System with
Dynatek Dyna S Sensor/Module with the Dynatek Dyna S module/sensor and a
High Energy Small-Size Epoxy Encapsulated Ignition Coil w/integrated metal
core conductor spark plug wire fastened on same aluminum mounting plate,
with a Locking Set Screw Collar w/Embedded Magnet. This ignition system
produce a strong spark. It will allow the engine to start quicker, idle smooth
and rev up to full throttle with no hesitation or misfire. Designed to be
used only on Kohler 10-16hp single cylinder engines. Entire ignition system
fastens on PTO end of engine block; cleans up the engine compartment on a
Cub Cadet. Coil can withstand high engine vibrations. Set the clearance between
the module and locking collar at .010"-.050".
IMPORTANT - Gently rotate the
flywheel back and forth by hand to check and see that the module does not
make contact with the locking collar. Do not allow the module make contact
with the locking collar while the engine is
running!
Simple wiring instructions: Connect
RED wire to coil positive (+) terminal
and to ignition switch (battery positive (+) post). FYI - The module and
coil are diode-protected, and will NOT burn up if the wires are connected
in reverse with power supplied.
But the
module will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few
minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening
and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master
disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch
to power the ignition system. Set spark plug gap at .035"
with this system. Kit also includes fully insulated male and female slip-on
spade crimp-type wire connectors (to easily connect/disconnect the ignition
system to/from the power source). NOTE: Slotted mounting holes will be
machined in the ignition plate. If the bolt holes in the PTO end of the block
don't match the ones in the plate or if bolt holes are not present, then
new bolt holes will need to be drilled and tapped in the engine block.
Picture of this ignition system coming soon. $165.00 per kit,
plus shipping & handling.
Replacement Dynatek Dyna S hall effect sensor/module with red and black wires. FYI - The module is diode-protected, and will NOT burn up if the wires are connected in reverse with power supplied. But the module will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system. Use with small magnet in aluminum rotating disc to trigger the spark. $60.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
(Posted 1/26/20) For Competition Pulling Engines
Only. This ignition system produce a strong spark. It will allow the
engine to start quicker, idle smooth and rev up to full throttle with no
hesitation or misfire. Complete self-contained crank-trigger ignition system
that operate off the PTO end of opposed twin cylinder Kohler engine models
KT17 Series II, KT19 Series II, and Magnum engine models M18 and M20. Produces
a very strong spark. Use this setup for durability when the OEM type of solid
state ignition coil keeps failing. Fastens on PTO end of engine. Dynatek
Dyna S module/sensor is triggered by a small magnet embedded in a locking
set screw collar. Simple one wire hook-up;
RED wire on module/sensor connects to
12 volt ignition switch (battery positive (+) post). Kit includes: Dynatek
Dyna S module/sensor and dual wire epoxy encapsulated ignition coil with
two molded-in metal core conductor spark plug wires and 90º spark plug
terminals/boots fastened on aluminum mounting plate, and small magnet embedded
in a locking set screw collar, and new battery ignition OFF-IGNITION-START
key switch (do not reuse OEM Magnum solid state ignition key switch with
this system) or an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for
security purposes; to power the ignition) and a momentary push button switch
(to crank the engine) and fully insulated male and female slip-on spade
crimp-type wire connectors (to easily connect/disconnect the ignition system
to/from the power source). Remove the OEM solid state ignition coil and aluminum
bracket. They will serve no purpose with this kit. Use with copper core spark
plugs gapped at .030" each. Coil can withstand high engine vibrations. Please
specify diameter of crankshaft PTO end for the locking collar when ordering.
FYI - The module is diode-protected, and will NOT burn up if the wires are
connected in reverse with power supplied.
But the
module will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few
minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening
and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master
disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch
to power the ignition system. Picture of this setup coming
soon. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller because nobody
else advertise this type of ignition system.
Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any of these parts or services. [Return to previous paragraph, section or website] [Top of Page]
Aluminum Locking Collar w/Embedded
Trigger Magnet and Allen Set Screw. Use with hall effect proximity sensors
only.
How to Check for Spark and Set the Timing for the Dynatek Dyna S (and PerTronix Ignitor) module/sensors - After either setup is installed on the engine and power is supplied, simply rotate the locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet (loose) on the crankshaft back and forth by hand. Each time the embedded detector/trigger magnet passes the sensor/module, spark should occur. NOTE: Do not use a battery charger alone for power to perform this test. Battery chargers constantly switch between high and low voltage at 60 cycles per second, and the module sees this as the ignition being switched on and off, resulting in a continuous array of sparks.
A simple and precise way to set the ignition timing STATICALLY (engine not running) for either sensor/module -
How to accurately set the ignition timing STATICALLY for the Dynatek Dyna S, PerTronix Ignitor and Inductive 3-Wire Proximity Sensor/Module - (This is also how to test if the sensor/modules or the ignition system is functioning or not.)
How to precisely set the ignition timing DYNAMICALLY (engine running) using an automotive inductive timing light for either sensor/module. (This is the most accurate way to set the timing.) NOTE: Timing can be checked, but not set while the engine is running! Do not allow sensor/module to make contact with the locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet while engine is running! -
Magnetic pickup coils and round-shaped proximity sensors are
very sensitive to mechanical damage (and electrical damage if connected wrong).
For magnetic pickup coils, set the air
gap/clearance from the detectable target (screw, pin or small raised area
on the rotating disc) at .010"-.060" with a brass, plastic, business card,
poster board, stainless steel (anything non-magnetic) feeler gauge. And being
3-wire inductive proximity sensors have a farther
detection range, set the air gap/clearance at .010"-.188". If the gap is
wider than specified with either sensor, the engine could misfire at higher
RPM. To prevent the possibility of an out of time spark, the detectable target
needs to be a minimum of 3/16" higher than or above the circumference surface
of a steel or cast iron rotating disc or flywheel. Direct metal contact with
either sensor could damage them. When in doubt if a sensor is
mechanically damaged, look at the end of it with the strong magnifying glass
to see any damage. If it is damaged, it needs to be replaced. A
magnetic pickup coil can be tested with a digital multimeter set on 200m
DC, with the negative lead of the meter on the white wire of the pickup coil
and positive lead on the black wire, then pass a small steel screw or bolt
over the end of the magnetic pickup coil. If the meter shows a reading, the
pickup coil is in good condition.
Normally Open 3-Wire Round-Shaped
Inductive Proximity Sensors for crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger
ignition. Recommended for use with the Chrysler and Ford electronic
ignition control module/units. Detects head of small ferrous metal (steel)
screw or bolt fastened to rotating disc or flywheel to generate power in
sensor. Spark will occur when aligned with head of steel screw (Kohler. etc.)
or pin (Tecumseh) in rotating disc or flywheel. Wide operating temperature
range. Epoxy encapsulated, mechanically rugged. Impervious to dirt, oil and
water. No maintenance required. Sensor is capable of powering crank-trigger
or flywheel-trigger ignition and digital tachometer at the same time. Durable
metal shielded threads with two stainless steel thin
jam nuts
and three, 10 foot long wire leads. Dimensions of each item below: 15/32"
(12mm) diameter x 1-3/8" thread length. Some proximity sensors have an LED
(Light Emitting Diode) on the rear of unit. If the proximity sensor is wired
incorrectly, the LED will stay on and go off when activated. Being
3-wire inductive proximity sensors have a farther
detection distance, set the air gap/clearance at .010" - .188". Direct metal
contact with either sensor will damage them. And if the gap is wider than
specified, the engine could misfire at higher RPM. To prevent the possibility
of an out of time spark, the detectable target needs to be a minimum of 3/16"
higher than or above the circumference surface of a steel or cast iron rotating
disc or flywheel. Click or tap here
for wiring diagrams.
Magnetic Pickup Coils
for flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition. All magnetic pickup coils
are Normally Open. Either can be used with the high-output/performance GM
4-pin HEI module w/1.0 ohm coil, or with the Chrysler or Ford electronic
ignition control module/units. Detects head of small ferrous metal (steel)
screw or bolt fastened to rotating disc or flywheel to generate power in
magnetic pickup coil. Install screw head extended minimum 3/16" higher than
or above the surface of the flywheel to prevent an out of time spark occurrence
by the flywheel itself. Wide operating temperature range. Epoxy encapsulated,
mechanically rugged. Impervious to dirt, oil and water. No maintenance required.
Self-generating power. Durable metal shielded threads with two
jam nuts.
Please specify size when ordering. Can be used with a steel bracket without
interference of magnetism. By the way - The magnetic pickup coils below work
exactly the same. There is absolutely no difference in performance.
Set the air gap/clearance from the detectable target (screw, pin or small
raised area on the rotating disc) at .010"-.020" with a brass, plastic, business
card, poster board or anything non-magnetic feeler gauge.
Click or tap here for wiring diagrams.
Detectable Target Screws for
Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition. Install on the edge of an aluminum
or steel locking collar, disc or flywheel when using a magnetic pickup coil
or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor. The curvature or dome shaped heads
of button- and Phillips-head screws makes them ideal for use as a detectable
target on a trigger disc or flywheel. Secure in place with a split lock washer
and/or
high strength liquid threadlocker
(Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent). FYI
- Store a container of liquid threadlocker or Super Glue upright and not
laying flat. The capped tip will not dry out and clog when stored upright.
An original, ingenious, thoroughly researched and innovative concept invented
by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this for use on a small engine.
Please accept no advertised copycat product of this kind. (But I do appreciate
them acknowledging my intelligence.)
Detectable Target Neodymium/Rare
Earth Ring Magnet, Rubber Cushioning/Isolator Washer and Steel Retaining
Screw for Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition. Each weighs 1/10 oz. / 6
grams. Fasten magnet w/screw and cushioning/isolator washer on the edge of
aluminum or steel disc, or flywheel when using a non-magnetic pickup coil,
3-wire hall effect proximity sensor or non-magnetic PerTronix Ignitor
sensor/module. Head of screw will become magnetized. NOTE: Being the PerTronix
Ignitor senses a certain polarity of the magnet, do not remove the magnet
from the screw. (The PerTronix Ignitor I and II, Dynatek Dyna S modules and
hall effect proximity sensors are activated by the South end of the magnet.
They won't do anything from the North end.) And neodymium and rare earth
magnets are the strongest available. Five times stronger than ceramic (ferrite)
magnets for stronger detection. Be extra careful when handling rare
earth/neodymium magnets. They are very brittle and can break when snapped
onto something or when the screw is tightened too much. Install the rubber
cushioning/isolator washer between the magnet and flywheel, and secure the
screw with
high strength liquid threadlocker
(Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent). Tighten
the screw/magnet just until the rubber washer begins to bulge. FYI
- Store a container of liquid threadlocker or Super Glue upright and not
laying flat. The capped tip will not dry out and clog when stored
upright. An original, ingenious, thoroughly researched and
innovative concept invented by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise
this for use on a small engine. Please accept no advertised copycat product
of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.)
High Quality Ordinary/Stock GM
HEI 4-Pin Ignition Control Module w/packet of
thermal paste (to dissipate the operating heat). Use with
a high-output hall effect or inductive proximity sensor. Virtually any ignition
coil regardless of the internal primary resistor can be used. Best to be
used with a metal core conductor spark plug wire and copper core/non-resistor
spark plug gapped at .025" or .035" (depending on size of coil) for best
performance. This combination of ignition components produce an extremely
strong spark, allowing the engine to rev
up to full speed. When mounting the GM 4-pin HEI module, always fasten it
with
thermal paste on a clean, flat aluminum plate with plenty
of cool circulating air to dissipate the heat and cool the unit while in
operation. All GM HEI modules that I offer for sale have been tested personally
by Brian Miller on my Kohler test engine to insure proper operation. Requires
one (1) 3/16"/.187"/2.8mm and three (3) #250
slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors. Actual
weight of each module: 1.1 oz. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality High-Output/Performance
GM HEI 4-Pin Ignition Control Module w/packet of
thermal paste (to dissipate the operating heat). This
particular module connected to a magnetic pickup coil (below
Ê) works excellent with a stock ignition
coil that have a maximum 1.0 ohm internal primary resistor, metal core conductor
spark plug wire and copper core/non-resistor spark plug gapped at .025, which
produce a strong spark, allowing the engine
to rev up to full speed. When mounting the GM 4-pin HEI module, always fasten
it with
thermal paste on a clean, flat aluminum plate with plenty
of circulating cool air to dissipate the heat and cool the unit while in
operation. Requires one (1) 3/16"/.187"/2.8mm and three (3) #250
slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors. Actual
weight of each module: 1.1 oz. $35.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
(Limited supply.)
3/8" Magnetic Pickup Coil w/Mounting
Adapter to Convert from Breakerless Ignition or Points and Condenser and
Upgrade to Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition. Fits Kohler K-series K241-K361
engines with the 9" ring gear flywheel w/projection (hump) or OEM protruding
bolt head on flywheel or 3/4" wide area (to install trigger screw) and large
bearing plate with the two bosses for mounting this item, as pictured above.
Includes two 10-24 UNC (coarse thread) Allen socket head mounting screws
and split lock washers. If they're not already present, new 10-24 UNC (coarse
thread) threads will need to be
drilled and tapped
in the two raised bosses in the bearing plate to mount the bracket for the
sensor's bracket. NOTE: Set air gap/clearance from projection (hump)
or OEM protruding bolt head on flywheel at .010"-.060" with a brass, plastic,
business card, poster board or anything non-magnetic feeler gauge. Ignition
timing will be fixed at 20º BTDC.
Click or tap here
for wiring diagrams. An original, ingenious, thoroughly researched
and innovative concept invented by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise
this for use on a small engine. Please accept no advertised copycat product
of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.)
Now the ordinary/stock 4-pin GM HEI electronic ignition control
module lives up to its name, High Energy Ignition! When used on a small engine,
in order for an ordinary/stock 4-pin HEI module allow the engine rev up to
full throttle, it must be used with the cube-shaped 3-wire inductive proximity
sensor, and can be used with virtually any ignition coil, regardless
of the ohms resistance or voltage output. A metal core conductor spark plug
wire and copper core/non-resistor spark plug should be used. Set spark plug
gap at .035". Sensor is also capable of powering an HEI crank-trigger ignition
and a digital tachometer at the same time. This
concept revolutionizes the use of this small, compact and versatile module!
This is a thoroughly tested, researched and proven reliable ignition system
invented by Brian Miller for ordinary lawn and garden engines and competition
pulling engines. And when mounting the GM 4-pin HEI module, always fasten
it with
thermal paste (to dissipate the operating heat)
on a clean, flat aluminum plate with plenty of cool air circulation to dissipate
the heat while in operation. Click or tap
here for wiring diagrams. IMPORTANT - The
wire that comes from the stator under the flywheel for Kohler Trigger Module
or Tecumseh Solid State Electronic Ignition Module generates about 250 volts
(serious) while the engine is running at full governed speed. Do not touch
this wire (terminal) with one bare hand and the engine itself with your other
hand while the engine is running! It is not needed for any of my crank-trigger
ignition systems. So snip off this wire or tape up the terminal to prevent
a short circuit or electrocution.
[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
New High Quality Chrysler /
Dodge / Plymouth electronic ignition control module/Unit for crank-trigger
and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition. Requires a minimum 1.2 ohm
ballast resistor to prevent burning up module.
Click or tap here to learn how to check the
resistor in a coil or ballast resistor. This module can be used with
the magnetic pickup coil or proximity sensor and virtually any ignition coil,
regardless of the ohms resistance or voltage output, and will allow the engine
to start quicker, idle smooth and rev up to full throttle with no hesitation
or misfire. Actual weight of module: 14 oz.
Click or tap here for wiring diagrams.
New 1.6 ohm Ballast Resistor
for use with Chrysler module (above È)
to prevent burning up module, or ballast resistor can be used with a 12 volt
ignition coil with low ohm internal primary resistor to prevent excessive
burning of point contacts.
New High Quality Ford / Mercury
/ Lincoln electronic ignition control module/Unit for crank-trigger and
flywheel-trigger electronic ignition. Operates with full 12 volts. Requires
no ballast resistor. This module can be used with the magnetic pickup coil
or proximity sensor and virtually any ignition coil, regardless of the ohms
resistance or voltage output, regardless of the ohms resistance, and will
allow the engine to start quicker, idle smooth and rev up to full throttle
with no hesitation or misfire. Actual weight of module: 1 lb. 7 oz.
Click or tap here for wiring diagrams.
High
Quality Inductive Wireless Handheld Small Engine Tachometer. A tachometer
is required in setting the correct RPMs (normally 3,200 or 3,600 maximum
for small engines) of an engine to prevent over-revving and possible damage
to the engine or dangerous flywheel explosion. For gas/spark ignite engines
only. Works with magneto and battery-powered ignition systems. Very accurate.
This handheld analog tachometer works great for checking/setting the RPM
on various small engines in the shop, and/or for checking/setting the RPM
[tech] on stock governed competition pulling engines. Hold sensor (antenna)
close to spark plug wire for reading. Operates off a self-contained replaceable
9 volt battery. Has built-in battery voltage check. Reads up to 5,000 RPM
on the low scale, and 15,000 RPM on the high scale.
High Quality Inductive Small
Engine Tachometer/Hour Meter. A tachometer is required in setting the
correct RPMs (normally 3,200 or 3,600 maximum for small engines) of an engine
to prevent over-revving and possible damage to the engine or dangerous flywheel
explosion. Very accurate. Can be hand-held to temporarily set engine RPM
or can be surface-mounted and secured with two screws to monitor engine RPM
at all times. Large 3/8 inch LCD display. Works with all spark ignition engines
by selecting engine type using S1 and S2 buttons. Works with magneto and
battery-powered ignition systems. If tachometer does not turn on automatically
as soon as engine starts, press and hold the two buttons at the same time.
Instructions included. Tachometer reads up to 99,999 RPM. Hour meter reads
up to 9999:59 hours/minutes then resets to Zero. Programmable maintenance
hour setting with service icon, a reminder when to change oil or other service.
Can be manually reset to Zero hours. Programmable maintenance hour setting
with service icon, a reminder when to change oil or other service. Easy
installation: Single wire wraps around spark plug wire and secured with two
supplied nylon zip-ties. No wire terminal connections required. Dimensions:
2" wide x 1-3/4" depth x 3/4" height.
High Quality Digital
Tachometer/Proximity Sensor Kits. A tachometer is required in setting
the correct RPMs (normally 3,200 or 3,600 maximum for small engines) of an
engine to prevent from over-revving and possible damage to the engine or
dangerous flywheel explosion. Choice of a
RED or
BLUE numeric display. Will work with
single- or twin-cylinder small engines or multi-cylinder automotive engines,
gas or diesel. The great thing about this type of tachometer is it needs
no setup. It displays accurate RPMs as soon as the engine cranks over to
start. Displays up to 9,999 RPM. Very accurate. Tachometer returns to zero
[0000] when engine is shut down. Operates totally independent of the ignition
system. Can be used for lawn & garden equipment or competition pulling
engines. Designed to be permanently mounted to monitor engine RPM at all
times. Tachometer can be in-dash or panel-mounted. This precision digital
tachometer operates with external power and on the same principle as my
flywheel- or
crank-trigger ignition systems with a proximity sensor to detect the
target, which can be a small ferrous steel screw or pin, or magnet in a rotating
disc on the crankshaft or on/in flywheel. A sturdy steel or aluminum bracket
will need to be fabricated by customer to mount the sensor in close proximity
of the detector/trigger target. Set air gap/clearance at .010"-.188". Tachometer
works with 8-24 volts DC, proximity sensor works with 6-36 volts DC. Dimensions
for mounting hole for tachometer: 3" wide x 1-17/32" wide. Tachometer measures
1" in depth. Dimensions of proximity sensor: 15/32" diameter x 1-3/8" thread
length. Wiring Instructions: #1 wire on tachometer connects to brown wire
on proximity sensor and ignition switch (12 volt power), #2 wire on tachometer
connects to blue wire on proximity sensor and engine/chassis ground (battery
negative (–) post), and #5 wire on tachometer connects to black wire
on (either) proximity sensor. Wires #3 and #4 connects to nothing. Wiring
is the same for the hall effect and inductive proximity sensors. Some proximity
sensors have an LED (Light Emitting Diode) on the rear of unit. If the proximity
sensor is wired incorrectly, the LED will illuminate within the target.
Click or tap here for YouTube videos to see how well this
tachometer works. Cannot be wired in conjunction with the Dynatek Dyna
S or PerTronix Ignitor ignition modules. This tachometer must be wired separately
or wiring can be integrated with my crank-trigger ignition system that use
a proximity sensor.
Aluminum Locking Collar w/Embedded
Trigger Magnet and Allen Set Screw. Use with hall effect proximity sensors
only.
A-1 Miller's Computerized Stuska Water Brake Engine Dynamometer (Dyno) Service with DPM Data Logger Software to Test Horsepower and Torque! | [Top of Page]
For performance testing of 10-16hp
single cylinder Kohler stock or competition pulling engines at speeds up
to 12,000 RPM. 100% accurate, customers can rent dyno time, fine tune and
make adjustments or changes to their engines to gain maximum horsepower and
torque, and print-out the results so their tractor(s) will be truly competitive
on the track. With an engine dyno, the puller can adjust their engine to
get maximum horsepower and torque, and gear their tractor appropriately to
have an advantage over the competition. NOTE: A fresh-built engine may
not produce full power until it's broke-in. This is when the valves wear-in
with the seats to completely seal in the compression. The rings will likely
hold the compression, but the valves may leak slightly until they wear into
the seats. This is normal for all engines and may take several hours or pulls
to happen, then the valves will be able to hold full compression. Lots of
pullers tell A-1 Miller's after I've built their engines that it seems to
pull stronger every time they pull it.
Engine Dyno Rental Fee: $50.00 per hour run time from the moment the engine is started. No setup fee for Cub Cadet engines with a 3- or 6-pin/stud clutch driver. An adapter may need to be needed or fabricated for other makes and models of engines. Only engines with the narrow base oil pan can be tested. Engines with the wide base (tall) oil pan cannot be tested at this time. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]
Coming Soon - Detailed Illustrated
Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back and Self-Propelled Garden
Tractor Pulling Sled. FYI - The
professionally-built self-propelled pulling sled is the only one I've ever
built (click the picture to the right to see a larger image of this sled),
and I got it right the first time, with very few changes or modifications
that had to be made to it. I guess I'm just one of those kind of guys that
knows what he's doing. Pullers really like pulling our sled, too. They say
it's the best sled they've ever pulled. (Not bragging, just stating a fact.)
By the way - Track Master sled is engineered so well (by Brian Miller), that
other sled builders/owners have copied my well thought-out and proven design.
And I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence. Anyway, I have lots
of work to do in my shop and I work on the sled plans in my spare time. As
soon as my plans with an inventory list of parts to use are perfected, I'll
post the update in my websites with the prices of the plans. Remember -
Perfection takes time. If it's worth having, it's worth waiting for. Also,
I plan to acquire a bigger shop and may build high quality garden tractor
pulling sleds in the future to offer for sale. Please call 573-256-0313 (shop)
or 573-881-7229 (cell; text or voice message), or email
pullingtractor@aol.com if interested.
- Brian Miller
If you would
like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website,
and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance and support,
please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank
Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.
When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly
with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to
the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we
can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
[Return To Previous Paragraph,
Section or Website]
We Ship to Canada and Worldwide 
-
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent
by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged
item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service
Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal
Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S.
territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground
or equivalent services. We try to keep our shipping cost to customers within
reason. Therefore, we don't ship our products in a fancy-looking package
with our company name and/or logo on it because most customers will just
toss it in the trash after they remove the contents.
(When placing an order through PayPal, please provide a list of which
parts you need.)
To make a payment to A-1 Miller's through PayPal, go to PayPal's secure website ( https://www.paypal.com/ ) and click on Send and Request -> Pay for goods or services. Type in my email address, or copy and paste this: pullingtractor@aol.com, the amount and follow the directions. Be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment is for. After you've finished, PayPal will send A-1 Miller's an email notifying me that you have made a payment to A-1 Miller's for the product(s) or services and amount entered. Then I go to their website and direct PayPal to deposit the money in my bank account. And I will send the parts to you as soon as I receive your payment. But I may have to order some of the parts if they're not in stock, which should take a few days. In that case, I will send you the parts as soon as they come in. PayPal protects your financial privacy and security. With PayPal, privacy is built in. It's a way for you to pay without exposing their financial information.interested, contact Brian Miller at 573-881-7229 (cell; text or voice mail). We're planning to move up to bigger and better pulling entertainment.
Complete Kit with Tachometer and 15/32" Diameter x 2-1/2" Length x 43" Cable Length Inductive Proximity Sensor. (Senses the head of a small steel screw in a rotating locking collar, disc or flywheel.) $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Aluminum Locking Collars w/Embedded Magnet and Allen Set Screw. Use with hall effect proximity sensors only. Or Steel Locking Collars w/Raised Screw Head and Allen Set Screw. Use with magnetic pickup coils or inductive proximity sensors. When ordering, please specify diameter of crankshaft PTO end. Most common crankshaft PTO end diameters are 1", 1-1/8", but 3/4", 1-1/4", 1-3/8", 1-7/16" and 1-1/2" are rare. Most billet steel crankshafts have a 1-1/2" diameter PTO end (raised shoulder). Other sizes available. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. [Return to previous section]
A-1 Miller's Computerized Stuska Water Brake Engine Dynamometer (Dyno) Service with DPM Data Logger Software to Test Horsepower and Torque! | [Top of Page]
For performance testing of 10-16hp
single cylinder Kohler stock or competition pulling engines at speeds up
to 12,000 RPM. 100% accurate, customers can rent dyno time, fine tune and
make adjustments or changes to their engines to gain maximum horsepower and
torque, and print-out the results so their tractor(s) will be truly competitive
on the track. With an engine dyno, the puller can adjust their engine to
get maximum horsepower and torque, and gear their tractor appropriately to
have an advantage over the competition. NOTE: A fresh-built engine may
not produce full power until it's broke-in. This is when the valves wear-in
with the seats to completely seal in the compression. The rings will likely
hold the compression, but the valves may leak slightly until they wear into
the seats. This is normal for all engines and may take several hours or pulls
to happen, then the valves will be able to hold full compression. Lots of
pullers tell A-1 Miller's after I've built their engines that it seems to
pull stronger every time they pull it.
Engine Dyno Rental Fee: $50.00 per hour run time from the moment the engine is started. No setup fee for Cub Cadet engines with a 3- or 6-pin/stud clutch driver. An adapter may need to be needed or fabricated for other makes and models of engines. Only engines with the narrow base oil pan can be tested. Engines with the wide base (tall) oil pan cannot be tested at this time. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]
Coming Soon - Detailed
Illustrated Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back and Self-Propelled
Garden Tractor Pulling Sled. FYI - The
professionally-built self-propelled pulling sled is the only one I've ever
built (click the picture to the right to see a larger image of this sled),
and I got it right the first time, with very few changes or modifications
that had to be made to it. I guess I'm just one of those kind of guys that
knows what he's doing. Pullers really like pulling our sled, too. They say
it's the best sled they've ever pulled. (Not bragging, just stating a fact.)
By the way - Track Master sled is engineered so well (by Brian Miller), that
other sled builders/owners have copied my well thought-out and proven design.
And I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence. Anyway, I have lots
of work to do in my shop and I work on the sled plans in my spare time. As
soon as my plans with an inventory list of parts to use are perfected, I'll
post the update in my websites with the prices of the plans. Remember -
Perfection takes time. If it's worth having, it's worth waiting for. Also,
I plan to acquire a bigger shop and may build high quality garden tractor
pulling sleds in the future to offer for sale. Please call A-1 Miller's at
573-256-0313 (shop) or 573-881-7229 (cell; text or voice message), or email
A-1 Miller's at
pullingtractor@aol.com if interested.
- Brian Miller
If you would
like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website,
and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance and support,
please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank
Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.
When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly
with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to
the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we
can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
[Return To Previous Paragraph,
Section or Website]
We Ship to Canada and Worldwide
-
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent
by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged
item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service
Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal
Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S.
territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground
or equivalent services. We try to keep our shipping cost to customers within
reason. Therefore, we don't ship our products in a fancy-looking package
with our company name and/or logo on it because most customers will just
toss it in the trash after they remove the contents.
(When placing an order through PayPal, please provide a list of which
parts you need.)
To make a payment to A-1 Miller's through PayPal, go to PayPal's secure website ( https://www.paypal.com/ ) and click on Send and Request -> Pay for goods or services. Type in my email address, or copy and paste this: pullingtractor@aol.com, the amount and follow the directions. Be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment is for. After you've finished, PayPal will send A-1 Miller's an email notifying me that you have made a payment to A-1 Miller's for the product(s) or services and amount entered. Then I go to their website and direct PayPal to deposit the money in my bank account. And I will send the parts to you as soon as I receive your payment. But I may have to order some of the parts if they're not in stock, which should take a few days. In that case, I will send you the parts as soon as they come in. PayPal protects your financial privacy and security. With PayPal, privacy is built in. It's a way for you to pay without exposing their financial information.
FOR SALE - Professionally Built Self-Propelled Pulling
Sled for ATVs/UTVs, Garden Tractors & 1,500 lb. Small Wheel Mini Rods
w/26-12.00x12 tires. Go here for information, YouTube videos and more pictures
of this sled: 
Designed to convert a self-energizing
magneto ignition system into the more reliable and dependable electronic
ignition. Will NOT work with 12 volt battery-powered ignition systems. Module
will burn up instantly when power is supplied.
Fasten the module to the engine
sheet metal that has plenty of cool air circulation with the supplied mounting
screw.
Neoprene Rubber O-Ring. Installs
on points pushrod close to engine block, and allows any leakage of crankcase
oil to drip down, staying off points contacts. .50¢ each, plus
shipping & handling.
Diaphragm Seal. Made of translucide,
silicone rubber. Slides over points pushrod and is held in place by points
bracket. IMPORTANT - Before installing, apply clean motor oil, gear oil
or lubricating grease inside seal lip or on points pushrod to prevent premature
wear and possible oil leakage of the seal. Also used as part of the flywheel
guard on various Kohler Magnum engine models M10-M16. OEM Kohler part # 220074-S.
$5.65 each, plus shipping & handling.
[
High quality aftermarket. 10"
length, 16 gauge stranded copper wire, crimp connectors and OEM Kohler points
cover grommet. For Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582. Replaces Kohler
part # A-231533-S. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Medium Capacity Ignition
Condensers/
High Capacity/Performance Ignition
Condenser/
OEM Kohler clamp for the high
capacity/performance ignition condenser/capacitor above
È. Has 1/4" mounting hole.
High Quality Copper Core/Non-Resistor
Spark Plugs for Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181/M8, and cast iron
block Tecumseh engine models VH80, VH100, HH80, HH100, HH120, OH140, OH150,
OH160 and OH180. Copper core spark plugs allows ignition coil to operate
cooler and last longer. For best engine performance, set gap at .025" with
a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system, .035"
with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with a
high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 3/8" thread
reach, flat washer seat.
High Quality Copper Core/Non-Resistor
Spark Plugs for Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K330/K331, K321/M14,
K341/M16, K361, K482, K532 and K582. Copper core spark plugs allows ignition
coil to operate cooler and last longer. For best engine performance, set
gap at .025" with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition
system, .035" with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with
a high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 7/16" thread
reach for stock OEM cylinder heads, flat washer seat.
High Quality Copper Core/Non-Resistor
Spark Plugs for Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K330/K331, K321/M14
, K341/M16. Copper core spark plugs allows ignition coil to operate cooler
and last longer. For best engine performance, set gap at .025" with a
self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system, .035"
with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with a
high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 3/4" thread
reach for machined billet cylinder heads, flat washer seat.
High Quality Copper Core/Non-Resistor
Spark Plugs for most models of Onan twin-cylinder air-cooled small engines.
Copper core spark plugs allows ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer.
For best engine performance, set gap at .025" with a self-energizing magneto
or solid state electronic ignition system, .035" with a full size battery-powered
ignition coil, and .060" with a high-output/performance battery-powered coil.
14mm threads x 11/16" thread reach, flat washer seat.
Indexing Washers for Tapered
Seat Spark Plugs with 14mm Threads. Position spark plug in combustion chamber
with open or exposed gap toward the piston in OHV engines for more power
and torque when using tractor under extreme conditions, such as heavy mowing,
garden plowing, pushing/blowing snow, or for competition pulling. Made of
copper. Available in the following thicknesses: .010", .021" and .032".
$1.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
Solid State Electronic Ignition
Coil with molded-in Module. Fits Kohler Magnum engine model M8. NOTE:
Use with a new Autolite or Champion copper core/non-resistor spark plug of
the correct type gapped at .025" for longer coil life. Install with spark
plug wire facing engine block as shown in picture to the right.
Solid State Electronic Ignition
Coil with molded-in Module. Fits Kohler Magnum engine models M10, M12, M14
and M16. NOTE: Use with a new Autolite or Champion copper core/non-resistor
spark plug of the correct type gapped at .025" for longer coil life. Install
with spark plug wire facing engine block as shown in picture to the right.
Solid State Electronic Ignition
Coil with molded-in Module. Fits Kohler Magnum opposed (flathead) twin cylinder
engine models MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. NOTE: Use with new Autolite
or Champion copper core/non-resistor spark plugs of the correct type gapped
at .015" for longer coil life. Install with spark plug wires facing outward.
Coil may fail prematurely in competition pulling with wide open throttle
operation. Use 
(Added
1/26/20) High Quality High Energy Small-Size Epoxy Encapsulated 12 Volt Ignition
Coil w/3.5 ohm internal primary resistor and integrated copper core spark
plug wire. Ideal for use in a compact engine compartment. Can be used for
general yard and garden engines, or for competition pulling with battery
ignition points and low capacity condenser, or with crank trigger ignition.
Coil can withstand high engine vibrations. Dimensions - overall length of
laminations: 3-1/2" x diameter of coil body: 1-1/4" x widest width of coil
body: 1-1/2" x mounting hole spacing: 3-1/8" x length of spark plug wire:
13-1/2". Fasten coil on outside of flywheel shroud next to carburetor or
above starter gear with two supplied 10-24 UNC or 10-32 UNF screws and spacers
with matching nuts welded to inside of flywheel shroud. Use #250
Used and in excellent condition.
Standard/Full-Size 12 Volt Canister-Type Oil-Filled Ignition Coil w/3.0 or
4.0 ohm internal primary resistor and mounting bracket. 20,000 volts output.
Use with medium capacity condenser. Set spark plug gap at .035" with these
coils. Tested on my test engine and they work great. Comes with a 90 day
limited warranty. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High quality universal 4.0 ohm
primary windings epoxy encapsulated ignition coil with molded-in dual metal
conductor spark plug wires. Can withstand high engine vibrations. 20,000
volts output. Coil dimensions: 4" overall length including mounting bracket
x 2-1/8" body width x 15" low tension wires x (2) molded-in 24" length spark
plug wires (can be shortened if desired). Two 90º spark plug terminals
and boots included. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Straight Brass Ignition Coil
Terminal. Fits female coil tower. No need to purchase a complete new spark
plug wire assembly. Center prong installs into center conductor of spark
plug wire. No need to strip the insulation and bend the center conductor
over for contact.
Straight Ignition Coil Boots.
No need to purchase a new complete spark plug wire assembly. Each installs
easily on 7mm size spark plug wire with lubricating grease. High quality
neoprene rubber.
Ignition Kit to Convert from
Kohler Magneto Ignition to Battery-Powered Ignition with a Full-Size Coil
for an Unlimited Space Engine Compartment. New parts include:
full-size canister-type 12 volt ignition coil w/3.0 ohm internal primary
resistor and mounting bracket, 11" length metal core conductor spark plug
wire, medium capacity condenser/capacitor, ignition points, points cover
gasket, 12" length "assemble-it-yourself" 16 gauge coil-to-points wire
w/terminals (reuse original points wire grommet), and new spark plug (please
specify model of engine when ordering for correct type of spark plug). Set
spark plug gap at .035" with this system. IMPORTANT - Either an OFF-ON-START
battery-ignition key switch or an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or an OFF-ON
key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition) and a momentary
push button switch (to crank the engine) MUST be used with this type of ignition
system. 
A-1 Miller's Custom-Made
Replacement Electronic Ignition Kits for Tecumseh engine models VH80, VH100,
HH80, HH100, HH120, OH120, OH140, OH150, OH160 and OH180 with a gear
starter that has a failed OEM Solid State Ignition. This ignition system
produce a very strong and reliable spark. It will allow the engine to start
quicker, idle smoothly and rev up to full throttle with no hesitation or
misfire. Epoxy molding makes the coil and module impervious to dirt, oil,
grease and moisture. This ignition system may outlast the life of the engine.
This revolutionizes the ignition system for older cast iron block Tecumseh
engines! This replacement ignition system installs in place of the OEM Tecumseh
Solid State Ignition (SSI) module unit and is completely hidden under the
flywheel shroud from outside view, with only one wire connection. NOTE
- This ignition system operates with 12 volts of power. The OEM key switch
for the Tecumseh Solid State Ignition (SSI) will not work with any
battery-powered ignition systems. The switch used with SSI is actually a
magneto ignition switch, which when the engine is shut-down, it grounds the
self-energizing wire connected to the ignition. And battery ignition requires
a switch that disconnects the coil from the power source (battery). So with
my this ignition system, you will need either an OFF-ON-START battery-ignition
key switch, or an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for
security purposes; to power the ignition) and a momentary push button switch
(to crank the engine). 
Replacement Tecumseh Electronic
Ignition Kit with Hall Effect PerTronix Ignitor. (Detects installed
screw/magnet on flywheel.) Includes: new PerTronix Ignitor Hall Effect
module/sensor and new high quality, high energy, small-size epoxy encapsulated
ignition coil w/integrated copper core spark plug wire, both fastened on
aluminum mounting plate, 12-24 UNC thread screw/magnet/cushioning washer,
new Autolite 295 or Champion J8C spark plug, new momentary push-button switch
(to crank the engine; optional) and new OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or an OFF-ON
key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition; optional).
A-1 Miller's Economy Replacement
Electronic Ignition Kit. Includes: New 3/8" x 1" magnetic pickup coil w/1/8"
thickness angled mounting bracket, choice of new Chrysler ignition control
module w/new ballast resistor or new Ford ignition control module, new 1.0
ohm full-size canister coil w/new spark plug wire, and new Autolite 295 or
Champion J8C spark plug. Magnetic pickup coil and angled mounting bracket
installs in place of OEM SSI module, and replacement ignition control module
and coil fastens on outside of engine.