As of 2022, A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises is still in business and offering all parts and services listed in this website. Please click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, if you need a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options.

A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises Catalog of Conventional (Points and Condenser) Ignition Parts and Electronic Ignition Conversion Kits

Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website.

Prices are subject to change without notice. FYI - All aftermarket parts that is offered in this website are of very high quality and come with an unconditional guarantee. As a matter of fact, the aftermarket parts are just as good or better quality than most OEM Kohler parts.

Conventional Self-Energizing Magneto, Solid State and Battery-Powered Ignition Parts (Points, Condensers, Coils, Switches, etc.)

Replace Troublesome Points and Condenser in a Self-Energizing Magneto Ignition System with a Reliable and Maintenance-Free Universal Solid State Electronic Ignition Module

A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Reliable and Maintenance-Free Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition Conversion Kits to Replace Points and Condenser for Virtually Any Older General-Use Small Engine or Competition Pulling Small Engine

A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Reliable and Maintenance-Free Flywheel-Triggered Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit to Replace Points and Condenser for Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K181, K241, K301 and K321 with the Small Flywheel and Starter/Generator

A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Reliable and Maintenance-Free Electronic Ignition Kit for Single Cylinder Kohler Engines to Replace Points and Condenser or a Failed OEM Kohler Breakerless Ignition System

A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Reliable and Maintenance-Free Flywheel-Triggered Electronic Ignition Conversion Kits to Replace Points and Condenser for Kohler engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II (Updated 12/1/21)

A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Reliable and Maintenance-Free Crank-Trigger Electronic Ignition Conversion Kits to Replace Points and Condenser for Virtually Any Older General-Use Small Engine or Competition Pulling Small Engine

A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Reliable and Maintenance-Free Replacement Electronic Ignition Kit for Tecumseh engine models VH80, VH100, HH80, HH100, HH120, OH120, OH140, OH150, OH160 and OH180 with a failed OEM Solid State Ignition (SSI) Module

COMING SOON! A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Reliable and Maintenance-Free Flywheel-Triggered Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit to Replace Points and Condenser for Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582

FYI - Being I have never had a single- or two-cylinder Onan or Wisconsin engine to my shop for repairs, I have no experience with working on them. Apparently, these engines are rare in my area (mid-Missouri). Otherwise, I would offer custom-made electronic ignition conversion kits for these engines, too. - Brian Miller


Kill Switch and Conventional (Points and Condenser) Ignition Parts -
FYI - I can install my custom-made flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition system on virtually any older small engine and/or rewire your lawn & garden tractor, small engine equipment, small motorized vehicle or competition garden pulling tractor so all the electrical accessories will work correctly and the engine will start quickly every time. I have the knowledge, skills, all the tools and parts necessary to perform a professional job. I've rewired many customer's lawn & garden tractors, small engine equipment and competition garden pulling tractors through the years with great results. If you're interested, click/tap here for my contact information and directions to A-1 Miller's shop. - Brian Miller
SAFETY FIRST! Grounding-Type Safety Break-Away / Kill Switch with Pull-Pin. Use for competition pulling only; mount on rear of tractor above hitch. When the pin is pulled, this switch grounds the ignition coil from producing spark. Wiring Instructions - If using with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition systems: Connect one wire to the tractor chassis/frame, and connect the other wire to the points/condenser wire that connects to the coil negative (–) terminal, or to the kill terminal on the solid state electronic ignition coil/module. If using with a battery-powered ignition system: Connect one wire to the tractor chassis/frame, and connect the other wire to the coil negative (–) terminal. NOTE: With battery-powered ignition, as soon as the pin is pulled (engine will die), immediately shut off the ignition switch to prevent burning up the ignition coil and electronic ignition control module (if equipped with crank-trigger ignition). This type of kill switch does not disable power to the electric fuel pump on a pulling tractor, and must be shut-off manually by a separate switch. [Return to previous section]
  • Grounding-Type Safety Break-Away / Kill Switch with Pull-Pin. $14.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Replacement Pull-Pin for Break-Away Switch listed above. Keep an extra on hand to replace a damaged or "misplaced" pin by a disgruntled competitive puller. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Ignition Points for Kohler, Tecumseh and Clinton engines. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582 with magneto or battery ignition (use with mounting bracket). Also fits Tecumseh cast iron block engine models HH80, HH100, HH120 with magneto or battery ignition (use without mounting bracket); and Clinton engine models 414, 418, 420, 422 (use without mounting bracket). Also, use this part when converting from Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition. IMPORTANT: Sometimes oxidation will form on new points contacts from sitting in storage, even when sealed in plastic. This happens A LOT with all types of ignition points. Therefore, while the points are closed under pressure, use a clean steel fingernail file or ignition points file to remove any oxidation/debris between the contacts, then drag a piece of clean lint-free paper through the contacts to remove any left-over residue, and use brake parts cleaner, electrical/electronic contact cleaner, cleaning solvent or paint thinner (these leave no oily residue) and then use 150± psi compressed air with an air blow gun nozzle to clean any remaining debris and/or metal filings from the contacts. This will guarantee 100% connection with the points. Do not use sanding material, such as sandpaper or emery cloth, to clean any electrical contacts! These leave a gritty residue between the contacts, causing a faulty connection and possible engine misfire. Also, lubricate the hinge/pivot pin in the points with clean motor oil to prevent from wearing due to dry friction, which will eventually effect the ignition timing. And virtually any magneto point ignition system can be converted to a more reliable solid state ignition with the universal electronic transistorized ignition module that I offer, or if possible, upgrade/convert the engine with my reliable custom-made battery-powered flywheel-trigger electronic ignition for a better running engine.
  • High quality aftermarket points without mounting bracket. Replaces Kohler # A-220474, 47 150 03-S (without bracket) and Tecumseh part #'s 32011, 32011A. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • High quality aftermarket points with mounting bracket. Replaces Kohler part # 47 150 03-S; and Tecumseh part #'s 32011, 32011A (without bracket). $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler points with mounting bracket, part # 47 150 03-S. $16.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Install 8-32 UNF Hex Socket (Allen) Head Cap Screw and split lock washer (listed below) in points w/bracket, add $1.00.


Hex Socket (Allen) Head Cap Screw w/split lock washer. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582. Also fits Tecumseh cast iron block engine models HH80, HH100, HH120; and Clinton engine models 414, 418, 420, 422. Replaces OEM slotted or Phillips head adjustment screw in points. Use 9/64" hex (Allen) L-wrench to set points gap. (Not included.) This stainless steel Allen head screw makes it much easier to precisely set the point gap and/or ignition timing with a 9/64" hex (Allen) L-wrench than the OEM slotted or Phillips screw with a straight or Phillips screwdriver so the points will not slip out of adjustment in garden tractors with a longitudinal engine, such as Cub Cadet, Economy Power King, Ford, hydrostatic-drive John Deere, MTD Farm King Model 960, Pennsylvania Panzer, Meteor, Copar, etc. No need to use this Allen head screw for garden tractors with a transverse engine, such as older Bolens, belt-drive John Deere, Massey Ferguson, Sears Suburban, Wheel Horse, etc. NOTE: Threads for adjustment screw in aftermarket points may need to be rethreaded with a 8-32 UNF TAPER [preferably] hand tap. And due to risk of stripping threads in the thin metal points bracket, do not over-tighten this adjustment screw! A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.)
  • 8-32 UNF Hex Socket (Allen) Head Cap Screw w/split lock washer. Use 9/64" hex (Allen) L-wrench to set points gap. (Not included.) $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


Phillips Head and Hex Socket (Allen) Head Screws with split lock washers to mount ignition points and points cover on Kohler engines. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582. These type of screw heads make for easier fastening of points and points cover to engine block in hard-to-reach places than the OEM slotted head screws on garden tractors with a transverse engine as listed above. Each screw replaces discontinued Kohler part # X-131-1-S. A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.)
  • 10-24 UNC Phillips head screws w/split lock washers. $1.00 per pair, plus shipping & handling.
  • 10-24 UNC Socket (Allen) head cap screws w/split lock washers. $2.00 per pair, plus shipping & handling.


High Quality Adjustable Chevy (GM) Ignition Points with Stiff Spring for Quick Reaction at open RPM. Use on Kohler K-series K241, K301, K321, K341, K361 competition pulling engines only. NOTE: Not recommended for use on lawn and garden equipment engines due to long exposure to dust and debris, which can contaminate points contacts and cause a misfire. IMPORTANT: Sometimes oxidation will form on new points contacts from sitting in storage, even when sealed in plastic. This happens A LOT with small engine and automotive ignition points. Therefore, while the points are closed under pressure, use a clean steel fingernail file or ignition points file to remove any oxidation/debris between the contacts, then drag a piece of clean lint-free paper through the contacts to remove any left-over residue, and use brake parts cleaner, electrical/electronic contact cleaner, cleaning solvent or paint thinner (these leave no oily residue) and then use 150± psi compressed air with an air blow gun nozzle to clean any remaining debris and/or metal filings from the contacts. This will guarantee 100% connection with the points. Do not use sanding material, such as sandpaper or emery cloth, to clean any electrical contacts! These will leave a gritty residue between the contacts, causing a faulty connection and possible engine misfire. And virtually any magneto point ignition system can be converted to a more reliable solid state ignition with the universal electronic transistorized ignition module that I offer, or if possible, upgrade/convert the engine with my reliable custom-made battery-powered flywheel-trigger electronic ignition for a better running engine. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Billet Aluminum Bracket and Cover w/all mounting screws for Chevy (GM) Points. Use on Kohler K-series K241, K301, K321, K341, K361 competition pulling engines only. Professionally CNC machined of thick aluminum to minimize timing fluctuations. NOTE: Cover is required with certain pulling associations/clubs as a fire prevention measure only. Cover does not totally enclose points. Therefore, it's not recommended for use on lawn and garden equipment engines due to long exposure to dust and debris, which can contaminate points contacts and cause a misfire. $40.00, plus shipping & handling.

TIP: To prevent small Phillips- or slotted-head screws from falling out of the screwdriver tip when installing in a hard to reach place, first of all, use the correct size screwdriver that fits the screw head, and for ordinary steel screws, temporarily magnetize the screwdriver by rubbing a magnet several times along the length of the shank, or for stainless steel screws, apply a dab of automotive grease in the head of the screw.

Ignition Points Pushrods. Each fits Kohler K-series engine models K141, K160/K161, K181, KV161, L160/L161 and L181. NOTE: Used pushrod to be no less than .184" in diameter and 1.265" in length. Measure yours accurately with a dial or digital caliper to determine if it needs replacing. Or use this part to convert from a failed Breakerless Ignition to the more reliable battery-powered points and condenser ignition system.
  • Stainless Steel. A-1 Miller's high quality aftermarket part. Replaces aluminum Kohler part # 41 411 01-S. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Aluminum. OEM Kohler part # 41 411 01-S. $22.25 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Flared-End Stainless Steel Points Pushrod. Install this A-1 Miller's custom-made part when the points lobe of the camshaft is severely worn on models K141, K160/K161, K181, KV161, L160/L161 or L181. Flared-end makes contact with unworn sides of points lobe. This special-made pushrod allows maximum opening of points so ignition timing can be set at factory specifications or beyond. Can also be used with an unworn points lobe for longer wear. NOTE: Entire engine MUST be completely disassembled to install this part. The alternative to using this part is to convert the engine to A-1 Miller's custom-made flywheel-trigger electronic ignition. Replaces Kohler part # 41 411 01-S. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. A proven, ingenious and innovative invention by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.)

Ignition Points Pushrods. Each fits Kohler K-series engine models K90/K91, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, K482, K532 and K582. NOTE: Used pushrod to be no less than .184" in diameter and 1.500" in length. Measure yours accurately with a dial or digital caliper to determine if it needs replacing. Or use this part to convert from a failed Breakerless Ignition to the more reliable battery-powered points and condenser ignition system.

  • Stainless Steel. A-1 Miller's high quality aftermarket part. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 46 411 01-S. $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Aluminum. (Listed for K90, K241, K301, K321, K341 and K361, but will also fit K482, K532 and K582 engines.) OEM Kohler part # 47 411 04-S. $17.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Aluminum. (Listed for K482, K532 and K582, but will also fit K90-K361 engines.) OEM Kohler part # X-489-8-S. $31.70 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Flared-End Stainless Steel Points Pushrod. Install this A-1 Miller's custom-made part when the points lobe of the camshaft is severely worn on models K241, K301, K321, K341 and K361, or the breaker cam (points lobe) in the governor assembly is severely worn on models K482, K532 or K582. Flared-end makes contact with unworn sides of points lobe. This special-made pushrod allows for maximum opening of points so ignition timing can be set at factory specifications. Can also be used with an unworn points lobe for longer wear. NOTE: Entire engine or governor assembly MUST be completely disassembled to install this part. But the alternative to using this part is to convert the engine to A-1 Miller's custom-made flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition. Replaces Kohler part #'s 41 411 04-S, 46 411 01-S, 47 411 04-S and X-489-8-S. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. A proven, ingenious and innovative invention by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.) NOTE: Virtually any self-energizing magneto ignition system can be converted to the universal electronic transistorized ignition module, or if possible, upgrade/convert the engine with my custom-made battery-powered flywheel-trigger electronic ignition for a better running engine.
  • Thin-Wall Brass Sleeve Bushing. Use this to repair worn 3/16" points pushrod hole in governor assembly for Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582. To install, the points pushrod hole will need to be precision-machined (enlarged) exactly to .218" with a chucking reamer for a press-fit installation. Dimensions: 3/16" I.D. x 7/32" O.D. x 5/8" length. $4.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Flared-End Oversized Stainless Steel Points Pushrod. Install this when the points pushrod hole is worn too big for the thin-wall brass bushing (listed above) and if the points lobe is worn or not in governor assembly for Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582. Use the Letter C chucking reamer to enlarge pushrod hole. Dimensions: .241" x 1.550" length. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. A proven, ingenious and innovative invention by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.) NOTE: If possible, upgrade/convert the engine with my custom-made battery-powered flywheel-trigger electronic ignition for a better running engine.
3/16" I.D. Neoprene Rubber O-Ring. Installs on points pushrod close to engine block, allowing any seepage of crankcase oil to drip down, staying off points contacts. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, K482, K532 and K582. But if the ignition points pushrod hole is excessively worn, this will effect the ignition timing as well, and the block will need to be machined for installation of a bronze sleeve bushing, or the hole can be plugged, and solid state or a custom-made flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition system can be installed. (The translucent silicone rubber diaphragm seal (part # 220074-S) is no longer available from Kohler.) [Return to previous paragraph, section or website]
  • .50¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
Ignition Points Cover Gaskets. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582. Protects points contacts from dust, dirt and water contamination. Also, use this part when converting from Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition.
  • High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 52 041 11-S. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 52 041 11-S. $2.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
Grommet for Ignition Points Cover/Wire. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582. Prevents dust and dirt from contaminating points contacts, and protects points wire from rubbing/chafing against points cover or use this part when converting from Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition. FYI: RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant will serve the same purpose.
  • OEM Kohler part # 220297-S. $4.95 each, plus shipping & handling.
Points Cover. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582. Protects points contacts from dust, dirt and water contamination. Also, use this part when converting from Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition. Made of 16 gauge stamped steel. Points cover for Kohler engines with push-button kill switch for self-energizing magneto ignition is no longer available.
  • Used and in excellent condition. Discontinued Kohler part # 232535-S. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
"Assemble It Yourself" Points-to-Ignition Coil Wire Kit. Replace OEM wire with frayed/cracked insulation and/or broken connector(s) to prevent a short circuit and/or engine misfire. Fits Kohler engines with battery-powered ignition, models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582. Includes 22" length (cut to desired length) x #16 gauge (AWG) insulated stranded copper wire and two uninstalled crimp connectors. Requires use of electrical connector crimping pliers. High quality A-1 Miller's parts. Replaces Kohler part # A-230371-S.
  • Without wire/points cover grommet. (Reuse your grommet if in good condition.) $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • With new wire/points cover grommet. $7.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

"Ready to Install" Points-to-Ignition Coil Wire Kits. Replace OEM wire with frayed/cracked insulation and/or broken connector(s) to prevent a short circuit and/or engine misfire. Fits Kohler engines with battery-powered ignition, models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582. Includes 16" or 22" length x #16 gauge (AWG) insulated stranded copper wire, grommet and two installed crimp connectors.

  • 16" length. Use on single cylinder Kohler engines with coil located next to carburetor or use this when converting from Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition.
    • High quality A-1 Miller's part. Replaces Kohler part # A-231839-S. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • OEM Kohler part # A-231839-S. $19.70 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 22" length. Use on single cylinder Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) engines with coil located above starter motor.
    • High quality A-1 Miller's part. Replaces Kohler part # 47 125 01-S. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • OEM Kohler part # 47 125 01-S. $24.25 each, plus shipping & handling.
Points Pushrod Hole Block-Off Plate for Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582. Use this part to cover points pushrod hole when converting engine to electronic ignition. Apply RTV silicone sealant to prevent oil leak and use OEM ignition points mounting screws to secure plate in place.
  • Fabricated A-1 Miller's part. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
NOTE: If a small engine idles well, but fails to rev up or runs erratically at higher speeds (like it hits and misses, pops and backfires), then chances are, it needs a new condenser/capacitor. And always install a condenser/capacitor with the wire facing downward so rain water and/or when washing off engine, water will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it. With water inside the condenser, this will also help it to idle well, but cause it to run erratically when revved up. Click/tap here to hear what an engine with a faulty condenser/capacitor sounds like. FYI - Virtually any magneto point ignition system can be converted to a more reliable solid state ignition with the universal electronic transistorized ignition module that is offered in this website, or if possible, upgrade/convert the engine with my reliable custom-made battery-powered flywheel-trigger electronic ignition that is also offered in this website for a better running engine.

Low Capacity Ignition Condenser/Capacitor. Fits certain Kohler engine models K91 and K241, and various other makes and models of small engines with a self-energizing magneto armature ignition coil or ordinary compact 12 volt coil. Can also be used with a compact epoxy-encapsulated 12 volt ignition coil in a custom-made battery-powered ignition system. Dimensions: .670" body diameter x 1.250" body length x 5mm mounting hole. NOTE: Virtually any self-energizing magneto ignition system can be converted to the universal electronic transistorized ignition module, or if possible, upgrade/convert the engine with my custom-made battery-powered flywheel-trigger electronic ignition for a better running engine.

  • High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 220434-S, and discontinued Tecumseh part # 32015. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


Medium Capacity Ignition Condensers/Capacitors. Designed for magneto coils or ordinary full-size OEM/stock output 12 volt coils. Has twice the capacity of the low capacity condenser listed above. Each fits certain Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K241, K301, K321 and K341. Including Tecumseh cast iron block engine models HH80, HH100, HH120 with self-energizing magneto ignition, Onan model P, and various other makes and models of small engines with a self-energizing magneto armature ignition coil. Each can also be used with Kohler engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series II. Or each can be used with a compact epoxy-encapsulated 12 volt ignition coil in a custom-made battery-powered ignition system. Dimensions of each condenser listed below: .680" body diameter x 1.250" body length x 11/32" mounting hole. NOTE: Virtually any self-energizing magneto ignition system can be converted to the universal electronic transistorized ignition module, or if possible, upgrade/convert the engine with my custom-made battery-powered flywheel-trigger electronic ignition for a better running engine.

  • Condenser with terminal. High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 47 147 01-S. $16.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Condenser with terminal. OEM Kohler part # 47 147 01-S. $33.55 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Condenser with two integrated wires. One wire connects to points, other wire connects to coil. OEM Kohler part # 52 147 01-S. $34.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


Medium Capacity Ignition Condensers/Capacitors. Designed for use with ordinary full-size OEM/stock output 12 volt coils. Use on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series II, K482, K532, K582, and Tecumseh cast iron block engine models HH80, HH100, HH120, and various other makes and models of small engines with a 12 volt ignition system. Dimensions of each condenser listed below: .680" body diameter x 1.250" body length x 3-1/2" wire length x 1/4" hole in mounting clamp.

  • High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 230722-S. $7.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler condenser/capacitor part # 230722-S. $17.45 each, plus shipping & handling.


High Capacity/Performance Ignition Condenser/Capacitor. Has twice the capacity of the medium capacity condensers listed above. Designed for use with a 30,000+ volt high-output/performance 12 volt coil, Bosch blue coil, GM DIS coil, or an automotive-type distributor-driven point ignition system so engine will rev up at open RPM. Equivalent to ACCEL, Bosch, Mallory, MSD, and most other name brand high performance condensers. Use on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series II, K482, K532, K582, and Tecumseh cast iron block engine models HH80, HH100, HH120, and various other makes and models of small engines with a 12 volt ignition system. Dimensions: .680" body diameter x 1.250" body length x 3-1/2" wire length x 3/16" hole in mounting clamp.

  • High Capacity/Performance Ignition Condenser/Capacitor. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler condenser clamp w/9/32" mounting hole. Allows high-output/performance condenser (listed above) be mounted next to coil with one of coil's mounting bracket bolts. Or could be used as a wire clamp for bundle of wires. Used and in excellent condition. Irrelevant Kohler part number. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Copper Core/Non-Resistor Spark Plugs. Designed for Kohler engine models K90/K91, smaller flathead Briggs & Stratton and Tecumseh engines, most 2-cycle small engines and most chainsaws. Copper core spark plugs provides a stronger spark that allow the ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. For best engine performance and longevity of the coil, set gap at .025" with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system, .035" with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with a high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 3/8" thread reach, flat washer seat. Replaces Briggs and Stratton part # 802592S.
  • Autolite® 455. Replaces Kohler part # 41 132 06-S. $2.50 each, plus shipping & handling. (Limited quantity.)
  • Champion® 843 (CJ8). Replaces Kohler part # 41 132 06-S. $3.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Champion® 861 (J19LM). Replaces Kohler part # 41 132 06-S. $3.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 41 132 06-S. $7.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


High Quality Copper Core/Non-Resistor Spark Plugs. Designed for most larger cast iron block Briggs & Stratton engines, Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181, KV161, L160/L161, L181, M8, and cast iron block Tecumseh engine models VH80, VH100, HH80, HH100, HH120, OH140, OH150, OH160 and OH180. Copper core spark plugs provides a stronger spark that allow the ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. For best engine performance and longevity of the coil, set gap at .025" with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system, .035" with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with a high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 3/8" thread reach, flat washer seat.

  • Autolite® 295 Non-Resistor. Replaces Kohler part # 41 132 02-S. $2.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Champion® 841 (J8C) Copper Plus. Replaces Kohler part # 41 132 02-S. $3.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 41 132 02-S. $9.35 each, plus shipping & handling.


High Quality Copper Core/Non-Resistor Spark Plugs. Designed for Kohler engine models K241, M10, K301, M12, K330/K331, K321, M14, K341, M16, K361, K482, K532 and K582. Copper core spark plugs provides a stronger spark that allow the ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. For best engine performance and longevity of the coil, set gap at .025" with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system, .035" with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with a high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 7/16" thread reach for stock OEM cylinder heads, flat washer seat.

  • Autolite® 216 Non-Resistor. Replaces Kohler part # 25 132 10-S. $2.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Champion® 844 (H10C) Copper Plus. Replaces Kohler part # 25 132 10-S. $3.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • AC Delco C45L Copper Core. Replaces Kohler part # 25 132 10-S. $3.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 25 132 10-S. $11.10 each, plus shipping & handling.


High Quality Copper Core/Non-Resistor Spark Plugs for use in machined billet cylinder heads for competition pulling only. Designed for Kohler engine models K241, M10, K301, M12, K330/K331, K321, M14 , K341 and M16. Copper core spark plugs provides a stronger spark that allow the ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. For best engine performance and longevity of the coil, set gap at .025" with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system, .035" with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with a high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 3/4" thread reach, flat washer seat. Irrelevant Kohler part number.

  • Autolite® 4056 Copper; Tapered electrode design. $2.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • AC Delco 43XL. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Champion® 120 (N5C) Copper Plus. $2.50 each, plus shipping & handling.


High Quality Copper Core/Non-Resistor Spark Plugs. Designed for Kohler opposed twin-cylinder flathead engine models MV16, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Copper core spark plugs provides a stronger spark that allow the ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. For best engine performance and longevity of the coil, set gap at .025" with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system, .035" with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with a high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 15/32" thread reach, tapered seat.
  • Autolite® 26 Non-Resistor. Replaces Kohler part # 52 132 02-S. $2.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Champion® 25 (RV17YC) Copper Plus. Replaces Kohler part # 52 132 02-S. $3.65 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 52 132 02-S. $9.15 each, plus shipping & handling.


High Quality Copper Core/Non-Resistor Spark Plugs. Designed for most makes and models of OHV aluminum block single- and V-twin air-cooled small engines. Copper core spark plugs provides a stronger spark that allow the ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. For best engine performance and longevity of the coil, set gap at .025" with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system, .035" with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with a high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 5/8" thread reach, flat washer seat.
  • Champion® 71 (RC12YC) Copper Plus. Replaces Kohler part # 12 132 02-S. $3.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 12 132 02-S. $6.10 each, plus shipping & handling.


High Quality Copper Core/Non-Resistor Spark Plugs. Designed for most models of Onan opposed twin-cylinder air-cooled small engines. Copper core spark plugs provides a stronger spark that allow the ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. For best engine performance and longevity of the coil, set gap at .025" with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system, .035" with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with a high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 11/16" thread reach, flat washer seat.

  • Autolite® 106 Non-Resistor. $2.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • AC Delco R44LTS Copper Core. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Champion® 909 (RS17YX) Copper Plus. $3.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
Spark Plug Grommet. Fits Kohler (Quiet Line) engine models K181AQS, M8, K241AQS, K301AQS, K321AQS and K341AQS. Fastens directly on spark plug in air duct shield (sheet metal) over cylinder head to help cool the head better. Made of neoprene rubber.
  • OEM Kohler part # 47 313 01-S. $5.90 each, plus shipping & handling.
Indexing Washers for Flat Seat Spark Plugs with 14mm Threads. Positions spark plug in flathead engines combustion chamber with the open/exposed gap facing the center of the piston for up to 10% more power and torque when using tractor under extreme conditions, such as heavy mowing, garden plowing, pushing/blowing snow, or for competition pulling. To know exactly where the open gap is when the spark plug is installed, use a felt tip ink marker (Sharpie, Magic Marker, Marks-A-Lot) to place a mark (line) on the porcelain in-line with the open gap at the tip of the spark plug as shown in the photo to the right ->. And on flat seat spark plugs, leave the original compression washer on the spark plug and add the indexing washer(s) as needed, tighten spark plug until the open gap faces near the center of the piston. Available in the following thicknesses: .005", .010" and .015". Made of hardened steel. .75¢ each, plus shipping & handling.

Indexing Washers for Tapered Seat Spark Plugs with 14mm Threads. Positions spark plug in OHV engines combustion chamber with open/exposed gap toward the piston for up to 10% more power and torque when using tractor under extreme conditions, such as heavy mowing, garden plowing, pushing/blowing snow, or for competition pulling. Made of copper. Available in the following thicknesses: .010", .021" and .032". $1.50 each, plus shipping & handling.

High Quality Universal Self-Grounding OFF/ON Switches. Designed for use with Self-Energizing Magneto Ignition, Solid State Ignition, OEM Solid State Ignition (SSI) for Tecumseh's Cast Iron Block Engines, or with OEM Kohler Breakerless Ignition. These can be used on virtually any small engine installed on lawn and garden equipment, garden tillers, go-karts, chainsaws, log splitters, portable air compressors, portable generators/welders, portable water pumps, etc. with a magneto or solid state ignition, and a recoil/rope starter or a push-button switch with an electric starter motor to crank the engine. Very durable, tough switches.
  • Universal Grounding Lever. Fasten with a cylinder head bolt and hold against spark plug to kill the engine. Use only with magneto or solid state ignition. Made of spring-loaded, weather-proof anodized steel. Has two barbs for tall and short spark plugs to penetrate rubber boot. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Grounded OFF-ON Toggle Switch. The terminal makes contact with the body of switch when the key is in the OFF position. The body of this switch is grounded through a drilled hole in the sheet metal on the flywheel shroud, pedestal, dashboard, instrument panel, engine control panel, etc., and the blade terminal on the switch connects to the kill wire from the points or ignition coil. Very durable, tough switch. Comes with OFF-ON indicator plate. Use #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connector on terminal when connecting ignition wire to switch. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 223072-S. $3.60 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Grounded OFF-ON Key Switch. The terminal makes contact with the body of switch when the key is in the OFF position. Use for security of equipment. The body of this switch is grounded through a drilled hole in the sheet metal on the flywheel shroud, pedestal, dashboard, instrument panel, engine control panel, etc., and the blade terminal on the switch connects to the kill wire from the points or ignition coil. The terminal makes contact with the body of switch when the key is in the OFF position. Very durable, tough switch. Requires 5/8" mounting hole. $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Non-Grounded OFF-ON Key Switch. The two terminals makes contact together when the key is in the OFF position. Use for security of equipment. Body of switch not grounded to terminals; use in plastic pedestal, dashboard, instrument panel, engine control panel, etc. Connect one terminal to engine or chassis, and other terminal to ignition points or ignition coil. Very durable, tough switch. Requires 5/8" mounting hole. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Universal Ignition Key. Fits all key switches listed in this website, most riding mowers and lawn tractors. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Universal OFF/ON Switches for Battery-Powered Ignition and Electrical Accessories. Very durable, tough switches. Either can be used for ignition, lights, electric fuel pump, electric PTO clutch, etc. When used for ignition, use with push button starter switch (listed below). Terminals or wires on switches listed below makes contact when in the ON position. Can be used on virtually anything that have a battery-powered ignition or electrical system, such as: garden tractors, go-karts, competition pulling tractors, small motorized vehicles, mini-rods, hot-rods, farm tractors, automobiles, etc. Each can be mounted in dashboard, instrument panel, engine control panel, etc.
  • OFF-ON Toggle Switch. Maximum 20 amp capacity. Comes with OFF-ON indicator plate and two 6" wire leads. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 238011-S. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OFF-ON Pull-Push Switch. Pull out = ON, Push in = OFF. Maximum 5 amp capacity. Two screw terminal connection. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 275713. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OFF-ON Key Switch. Use for security of equipment. Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 100, Cub Lo Boy and IH Farmall Cub. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part # IH-403562-R3, and IH part #'s 366313R91, 370375R91, 379594R92, 403562R2, 636365R91. $42.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Universal Ignition Key. Fits most key switches listed in this website, most riding mowers and lawn tractors. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Universal Push Button Switches. Each can be mounted in pedestal, dashboard, instrument panel, engine control panel, flywheel shroud, etc.
  • Light Duty OFF/ON 15 Amp Capacity Momentary Push Button Switch. BLACK button; Normally Open; push to connect circuit. Use as starter switch to crank engine, as a safety switch, temporarily power electrical accessories, such as light(s), etc., or to power kill switch motor (on pulling sled). Starter solenoid/relay may be required if electrical load exceeds 15 amps. Use #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals when connecting wires to switch. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. 2-1/8" overall length. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Light Duty OFF/ON 15 Amp Capacity Momentary Push Button Switch. RED button; Normally Off; push to disconnect circuit. Use as a safety switch for transmission shifter in a pulling vehicle to disconnect power to the starting circuit when transmission is in gear. Use #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals when connecting wires to switch. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. 2-1/8" overall length. $16.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Heavy Duty 20 Amp Capacity Momentary Push Button Switch. Normally Open; push to connect circuit. Comes with two screws to connect between positive (+) battery post and starter motor. Heavy wire terminals and minimum #8 gauge (AWG) wire recommended. Starter solenoid/relay may be required if electrical load exceeds 20 amps. Requires 5/8" mounting hole. $14.00 each, plus shipping & handling. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]
High Quality Universal 3-Position Off-Ignition-Start MAGNETO Ignition Key Switch. Designed specifically for Self-Energizing Magneto Ignition, Solid State Ignition, OEM Solid State Ignition (SSI) for Tecumseh's Cast Iron Block Engines, or with OEM Kohler Breakerless Ignition. Can be used for various makes and models of riding mowers, lawn & garden tractors, garden tractors, competition garden pulling tractors and various small engine equipment with magneto or solid state ignition. Identification of 5 blade terminals: B = Battery [+]; G = Ground (terminal is grounded to body of switch); L = Lights (use a separate OFF-ON switch connected to this terminal to power an electric PTO clutch); M = Magneto (Ignition); S = Solenoid (small terminal). Key positions: OFF position makes contact with M+G; IGNITION position makes contact with B+L; START position makes contact with B+S. Each terminal identified for correct wiring connections. IMPORTANT: Use with a starter solenoid/relay to crank the engine to prevent burning out internal contacts in switch. NOTE: If engine is equipped with an alternator/stator charging system, the center terminal on the voltage rectifier/regulator connects to the positive (+) battery post. If using an ammeter/amp gauge, connect the gauge/meter to the positive (+) battery post, then to the B terminal on the switch. Trace the wires on your tractor/equipment to see if they match the terminals on this switch. If they don't match, the plug-in spade connectors/wires can be rearranged in the plastic connector housing to match the corresponding terminals on the switch. To do this, use a small flat blade screwdriver to depress the locking tab/tang so the plug-in connector can be pulled out from the plastic connector housing. Bend the locking tab/tang up slightly before reinserting it in the plastic connector so it will be secured in place. Or use #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals when connecting wires to switch. Requires 5/8" diameter mounting hole.
  • Magneto or Solid State Ignition Key Switch. A-1 Miller's part # 9158. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Universal Ignition Key. Fits all key switches listed in this website, most riding mowers and lawn tractors. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Universal 3-Position Off-Ignition-Start BATTERY Ignition Key Switch. Designed specifically for Battery-Powered Points/Condenser Ignition or Battery-Powered Flywheel/Crank-Trigger Aftermarket Replacement Electronic Ignition. Can be used for various makes and models of ordinary garden tractors, competition garden pulling tractors, small engine equipment, small motorized vehicles, mini rod pulling tractors or hot rods with battery-powered ignition or flywheel/crank trigger ignition. Identification of 5 blade terminals are: I = Ignition; A = Auxiliary (electrical accessories, such as lights, electric PTO clutch, etc.); R = Rectifier; B = Battery [+]; S = Solenoid (small terminal). Key positions: OFF position makes no contact with any of the other terminals; IGNITION position makes contact with B+I+R+A; START position makes contact with B+I+R+S. Each terminal identified for correct wiring connections. IMPORTANT: Must be used with a starter solenoid to crank the engine to prevent burning out internal contacts in switch. If using an ammeter/amp gauge, connect the gauge/meter to the positive (+) battery post, then to the B terminal on the switch. Trace the wires on your tractor/equipment to see if they match the terminals on this switch. If they don't match, the plug-in spade connectors/wires can be rearranged in the plastic connector housing to match the corresponding terminals on the switch. To do this, use a small flat blade screwdriver to depress the locking tab/tang so the plug-in connector can be pulled out from the plastic connector housing. Bend the locking tab/tang up slightly before reinserting it in the plastic connector so it will be secured in place. Or use #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals when connecting wires to switch. Requires 9/16" diameter mounting hole.
  • Universal Battery Ignition Key Switch. A-1 Miller's part # 1931 or 12-110A. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Universal Ignition Key. Fits all key switches listed in this website, most riding mowers and lawn tractors. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
3-Position Off-Ignition-Start BATTERY Ignition Key Switch. Fits IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 154, 184, 185 and LO BOY. Universal applications; can also be used for various makes and models of ordinary garden tractors, competition garden pulling tractors, small engine equipment, small motorized vehicles, mini rod pulling tractors or hot rods with battery-powered ignition or flywheel/crank trigger ignition. For universal applications, use with #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors. Identification of 3 blade terminals are: BAT = positive (+) battery post; IGN = Positive [+] Terminal on Ignition Coil ; ST = Starter Solenoid. IMPORTANT: Must be used with a starter solenoid to crank engine to prevent burning out internal contacts in switch. Unlike key switches listed above, this switch comes with a serrated key.
  • High quality aftermarket. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-60736-C3. $35.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-60736-C3. $70.80 each, plus shipping & handling.
Universal Wiring Harness with Plastic Housing Connector. Fits universal OFF-IGNITION-START key switches listed above and other key switches with same terminal configuration. Three terminals will also fit the OEM Cub Cadet garden tractor ignition key switch. Replace damaged wiring and connector, use as new wiring harness on a custom-made project, or use this part when converting from Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition. 18" length color-coded wires for easy identification. $13.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


Plastic Housing Electrical Connector Only. Fits universal OFF-IGNITION-START key switches listed above and other key switches with same terminal configuration. Three slots will also fit the OEM Cub Cadet garden tractor ignition key switch. Replace damaged connector when the brass slide-on spade crimp wire connectors are in good condition. Requires 1/4" width slide-on brass spade crimp wire connectors with locking tab/tang below. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


1/4" Width Slide-On Brass Spade Crimp Wire Connector with Locking Tab/Tang. Fits plastic housing connectors used on most OFF-IGNITION-START key switches, voltage rectifier/regulators, head lights, etc. To remove old slide-on brass connector from plastic housing, use a small flat blade screwdriver to depress locking tab/tang on connector, and pull connector out of housing. Solder or use terminal crimping pliers to install on wire. Before installing the new connector, make sure locking tab/tang is slightly bent outward, and slide connector into plastic housing in the correct position until it locks/snaps in place. This part was never available from Kohler. $1.40 each, plus shipping & handling.

OFF/ON Main/Master Disconnect/Cutoff Switch with Removable Key. Use this 100 amp capacity switch to disable all power throughout the equipment to prevent sabotage an/or an accidental electrical short that could burn up the wiring system or entire equipment. Useful when equipment is not used for a period of time to prevent a slow drain on the battery, prevent short circuits when performing electrical service on equipment, or for a pulling tractor to prevent accidental starts or to prevent sabotage at the pull sites by disgruntled pullers. Connect between negative (–) battery post and equipment ground. Copper terminals with brass hex nuts for improved continuity. Comes with protective weather cap and two removable nylon key locks. Mounting hardware not included. $19.00 each, plus shipping & handling. [Return to previous paragraph, section or website]
Armature Ignition Coil with Integrated Solid State Electronic Integrated Module. Fits Kohler Magnum engine model M8. NOTE: Install this coil with spark plug wire facing engine block as shown in photo to the right ->. Set the air gap/clearance between the magnet in the flywheel and armature laminations at .010" with a paper or brass feeler gauge. The .010" gap produces a stronger magnetic field through the coil to generate more power for a stronger spark, and so the engine won't misfire. IMPORTANT: Use a new copper core/non-resistor AC Delco, Autolite or Champion spark plug of the correct type gapped at .025" for longer coil life. Use of a resistor type or NGK spark plug will void warranty.
  • High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 41 584 03-S. $61.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 41 584 03-S. $128.05 each, plus shipping & handling.


Armature Ignition Coil with Integrated Solid State Electronic Integrated Module. Fits Kohler Magnum engine models M10, M12, M14 and M16. NOTE: Install this coil with spark plug wire facing engine block as shown in photo to the right ->. Set the air gap/clearance between the magnet in the flywheel and armature laminations at .010" with a paper or brass feeler gauge. The .010" gap produces a stronger magnetic field through the coil to generate more power for a stronger spark, and so the engine won't misfire. IMPORTANT: Use a new copper core/non-resistor AC Delco, Autolite or Champion spark plug of the correct type gapped at .025" for longer coil life. Use of a resistor type or NGK spark plug will void warranty.

  • High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 47 584 03-S. $30.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 47 584 03-S. $128.05 each, plus shipping & handling.


Armature Ignition Coil with Integrated Solid State Electronic Integrated Module. Fits Kohler Magnum opposed twin cylinder engine models MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. NOTE: Install this coil with spark plug wires facing engine block as shown in photo to the right ->. Set the air gap/clearance between the magnet in the flywheel and armature laminations at .010" with a paper or brass feeler gauge. The .010" gap produces a stronger magnetic field through the coil to generate more power for a stronger spark, and so the engine won't misfire. IMPORTANT: Use new copper core/non-resistor AC Delco, Autolite or Champion spark plugs of the correct type gapped at .015" each for longer coil life. Use of resistor type or NGK spark plugs will void warranty.

  • High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 52 584 02-S. $46.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 52 584 02-S. $208.20 each, plus shipping and handing.
Armature Ignition Coil with Integrated Solid State Electronic Integrated Magnetron™ Module. Fits Briggs and Stratton horizontal and vertical shaft opposed twin cylinder engines. NOTE: Install this coil with spark plug wires facing engine block as shown in photo to the right ->. Set the air gap/clearance between the magnet in the flywheel and armature laminations at .010" with a paper or brass feeler gauge. The .010" gap produces a stronger magnetic field through the coil to generate more power for a stronger spark, and so the engine won't misfire. IMPORTANT: Use new copper core/non-resistor AC Delco, Autolite or Champion spark plugs of the correct type gapped at .015" each for longer coil life. Use of resistor type or NGK spark plugs will void warranty.
  • High quality aftermarket. Replaces Briggs and Stratton part #'s 392329, 394891, 394988, 590781. $35.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Briggs and Stratton part #'s 392329, 394891, 394988, 590781. $45.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
To test for the continually of an ignition coil (to see if it's in good condition), use a multimeter set on the Ohm () resistance. Insert one of the multimeter's probes into the spark plug terminal of the coil, contacting the metal inside the terminal. Touch the second probe of the meter to the ignition coil's negative (–) terminal. (This is the one not connected to the primary resistor.) Depending on the type of coil (magneto, small size, standard size or high output/performance), the meter should read 6,000 to 15,000 ohms. If it does not, the coil's secondary winding is faulty.
Magneto Armature Ignition Coil. Fits Kohler engine model K91 with self-energizing magneto ignition. May not fit model K90 with magneto ignition. Spark plug wire (not included) inserts into front/outward curvature of coil. Reuse OEM spark plug wire. NOTE: This coil should produce a stronger spark when used with the Universal Solid State Electronic Ignition Module. Or the engine can be converted to battery-powered ignition. Dimensions: 1.700" O.D. x 1.080" length x 1/2" x 1/2" square hole. How magneto coils generate a spark. IMPORTANT: Use a new copper core/non-resistor AC Delco, Autolite or Champion spark plug of the correct type gapped at .025" for longer coil life. Use of a resistor type or NGK spark plug will void warranty.
  • High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 220435-S. $45.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Magneto Armature Ignition Coils. Fits certain Kohler K-series engine models K181, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331 and K341 with points, condenser/capacitor and coil under flywheel. Common with Kohler engines mounted to a generator or welder. Also fits most small- and medium-frame aluminum block Tecumseh engines with points, condenser/capacitor and coil under flywheel. NOTES: These coils should produce a stronger spark when used with the Universal Solid State Electronic Ignition Module. Also, each coil listed below can be substituted for the obsolete OEM Kohler part # 275756 coil by grinding down the laminations on the armature to .405" x .405" square. Do not grind out inside of coil! To secure coil on the armature, bend one lamination over end of coil. Or engine could be converted to the more reliable battery-powered ignition system. Dimensions of each coil: 1.700" O.D. x 1.080" length x .405" square hole. How magneto coils generate a spark. IMPORTANT: Use a new copper core/non-resistor AC Delco, Autolite or Champion spark plug of the correct type gapped at .025" for longer coil life. Use of a resistor type or NGK spark plug will void warranty.
  • High Quality Aftermarket Universal Magneto Armature Ignition Coil with integrated spark plug wire. Spark plug wire protrudes from rear of coil. Replaces Kohler part #'s 232901-S, 238059 (kit), 47 145 02-S, 47 755 20-S (kit), and Tecumseh part # 30560A. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • High Quality Aftermarket Magneto Armature Ignition Coil without integrated spark plug wire. Spark plug terminal protrudes from rear of coil. Reuse OEM spark plug wire. If the spark plug wire will not pull out of the old coil, simply cut it off close to the coil, and use Super Glue to secure it in the new coil. Replaces Kohler part #'s 232901-S, 238059 (kit), 47 145 02-S, 47 755 20-S (kit), and Tecumseh part # 30560A. $35.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler Magneto Ignition Armature Coil without Retaining Clip. Spark plug wire NOT included with coil. Reuse OEM spark plug wire. If the spark plug wire will not pull out of the old coil, simply cut it off close to the coil, and use Super Glue to secure it in the new coil. Retaining clip (237919-S) discontinued from Kohler. To secure coil on armature, bend one lamination over end of coil. OEM Kohler part # 47 145 02-S. $152.40 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler Magneto Ignition Armature Coil with Retaining Clip. Spark plug wire NOT included with coil. Reuse existing spark plug wire. If the spark plug wire will not pull out of the old coil, simply cut it off close to the coil, and use Super Glue to secure it in the new coil. Retaining clip (237919-S) discontinued from Kohler. To secure coil on armature, bend one lamination over end of coil. OEM Kohler part # 47 755 20-S. $157.85 each, plus shipping & handling.
Magneto Armature Ignition Coil. Fits various Kohler engine models K90, K141, K161, K181, KV161, L160/L161 and L181 with coil mounted on U-shape ignition stator on bearing plate underneath flywheel with magnet rotor on crankshaft. Also fits various larger cast iron block Clinton engines with coil/armature mounted on cylinder, above flywheel. Common with certain generator engines. Spark plug wire not included. NOTE: This coil should produce a stronger spark when used with the Universal Solid State Electronic Ignition Module. Or the engine could be converted to battery-powered ignition. Dimensions: 1.750" diameter x 1.450" length x .505" square hole. How magneto coils generate a spark. IMPORTANT: Use a new copper core/non-resistor AC Delco, Autolite or Champion spark plug of the correct type gapped at .025" for longer coil life. Use of a resistor type or NGK spark plug will void warranty.
  • New Old Stock. Discontinued Kohler part #'s 22089, 231718-S. $137.00 each, plus shipping & handing. (When available.)
Ignition Coils - IMPORTANT: Most failures of a battery-powered ignition coils and/or electronic ignition control modules are caused by either the use of suppression/carbon-core spark plug wire(s), resistor-type spark plug(s), or overcharging of the electrical system due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery. Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging system. Also, any coil will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle switch to power the ignition system. Also, the coil could burn up if the charging system continually overcharge due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or a defective [automotive] battery.

High Quality, High Energy, Compact Epoxy-Encapsulated 12 Volt Armature Ignition Coil w/3.5 ohm internal primary resistor and integrated metal core spark plug wire. 15,000 volt output. Draws approximately 3 amps with points or electronic ignition. Includes mounting hardware. Ideal for a confined engine compartment with limited space and no place to mount a full size canister coil, or can be used to convert from an obsolete self-energizing magneto ignition system to the more reliable battery ignition system (a small 12 volt battery w/ignition switch and wiring must also be used.) Can be used for general yard and garden engines, competition pulling engines with battery ignition points and low capacity condenser, or with crank trigger ignition. Coil can withstand high engine vibrations. To install this coil, drill two 7/32" holes in alignment with holes in coil's armature through flywheel shroud next to carburetor or above starter gear and tack-weld the two supplied nuts (in alignment with drilled holes) or tack-weld head of screws (to serve as studs) to inside of shroud, and securely fasten coil with the two supplied spacers, lock washers to nuts or screws. (When fastened to flywheel shroud, coil will have a nice, distinctive appearance, and like it's factory-installed.) Comes with separate spark plug boot and terminal. If necessary and for your application, shorten the spark plug wire (don't cut it off too short!), and to install terminal, make sure the pointed prong on the terminal penetrates the insulation of the wire, or strip a short part of the insulation and bend over the wire to make full connect with the terminal, and use a spark plug wire crimping tool, then apply automotive grease on the spark plug wire and inside boot so it will slide easily on the wire and over the terminal. Use #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors when connecting wires to coil terminals. IMPORTANT: Use a new copper core/non-resistor AC Delco, Autolite or Champion spark plug of the correct type gapped at .030" for longer coil life. Use of a resistor type or NGK spark plug will void warranty. Dimensions: 3-1/2" overall length of armature x 1-1/4" diameter of coil body x 1-1/2" widest width of coil body x 3-1/8" mounting hole spacing: x 13-1/2" length of spark plug wire. How battery-powered ignition coils work. A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.) [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]

  • High Energy, Compact Armature Ignition Coil without mounting hardware. (Customer supplies own hardware.) $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • High Energy, Compact Armature Ignition Coil with mounting hardware. (Includes coil w/spark plug boot and terminal, two screws, two nuts, two lock washers and two spacers.). $30.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Full Size High Energy Output Oil-Filled 12 Volt Canister Ignition Coils - Each coil listed below have a 3.0 ohm internal primary resistor and mounting bracket. 20,000 volts output. Draws 3-4 amps with points or electronic ignition. Use with medium capacity condenser. Replace defective coil or use this part when converting from Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition. IMPORTANT: Use a new copper core/non-resistor AC Delco, Autolite or Champion spark plug of the correct type gapped at .030" for longer coil life. Use of a resistor type or NGK spark plug will void warranty.

  • Used, tested and in excellent condition. Comes with a 90 day limited warranty. OEM Kohler part # 41 519 21-S. Replaces John Deere part # AM38411 and Tecumseh part # 32080. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • New high quality aftermarket coil. Replaces Kohler part # 41 519 21-S, John Deere part # AM38411 and Tecumseh part # 32080. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • New OEM Kohler Coil, part # 41 519 21-S. Replaces John Deere part # AM38411 and Tecumseh part # 32080. $119.10 each, plus shipping & handling.

Full Size High-Output/Performance Epoxy-Filled Bosch Blue 12 Volt Canister Ignition Coil w/3.0 ohm internal primary resistor and mounting bracket. 30,000 volts output. Draws less than 5 amps with points or electronic ignition. Vibration-Resistant Epoxy-Filled. For longevity of the coil, use a metal core coil-to-spark plug wire and a copper core/non-resistor spark plug [Autolite or Champion] gapped at .060". Use with ignition points and two medium capacity condensers/capacitors or one high capacity/performance ignition condenser/capacitor for full coil saturation and a strong spark so engine will rev up at open speed, or can be used with ignition points and condenser or A-1 Miller's custom-made crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition kits. This genuine Bosch blue coil is epoxy filled with a steel casing. All epoxy filled or molded epoxy coils will hold up to severe vibrations, can be mounted in any position and will not leak oil (because there is no oil). How battery-powered ignition coils work. IMPORTANT: Use a new copper core/non-resistor AC Delco, Autolite or Champion spark plug of the correct type gapped at .030" for longer coil life. Use of a resistor type or NGK spark plug will void warranty. $60.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

New 1.6 ohm Ballast Resistor for use with a 12 volt ignition coil with a internal resistor less than 3.0 Ohms. Use this to send less current through points to prevent excessive burning or wearing of contacts, or use with the Chrysler / Dodge / Plymouth (MOPAR) electronic ignition control module/unit, or connect with coil having a minimum 1.4 ohm internal primary resistor to prevent burning up the DynaTek Dyna S electronic ignition control modules. Install between the wire coming from the ignition switch to the positive [+] terminal on the coil. Can be used with general lawn and garden, snow removal, etc., but not for competitive pulling. NOTE: Ignition resistors with a higher ohm value are known as "Point Savers." The higher the ohm resistance in an ignition coil or a ballast resistor has, the longer the ignition points will last (as long as the points are installed clean, and doesn't become contaminated with dust, oil, water, etc.). Any 12 volt ignition coil with an 3.0 or higher ohm internal primary resistor connected to a minimum 1.6 ohm ballast resistor when used in a points and condenser/capacitor ignition system will allow the points to possibly last the life of the engine. Because the reduced resistance allows a very low current/voltage to pass through the contacts in the points. The ignition system will still produce a strong spark because an average small engine requires only a fraction of voltage from the coil. Also, avoid using a suppression/carbon-core coil-to-spark plug wire and/or resistor type of spark plug due to overheating of the ignition coil. Therefore, it's best to use a metal core conductor coil-to-spark plug wire and copper core/non-resistor spark plug. Click here to learn how to check the Ohms resistance in a spark plug wire. $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
IMPORTANT: Most failures of a battery-powered ignition coils and/or electronic ignition control modules are caused by either the use of suppression/carbon-core spark plug wire(s), resistor-type spark plug(s), or overcharging of the electrical system due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery. Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging system. Also, any coil will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle switch to power the ignition system. Also, the coil could burn up if the charging system continually overcharge due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or a defective [automotive] battery. Click here to install electronic ignition on the KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series II engines.

High Quality Epoxy-Encapsulated 4.0 Ohm 12 Volt Armature Universal Ignition Coil with Molded-In Dual Metal Core Spark Plug Wires for Opposed Twin Cylinder Engines. Can be used on Kohler engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532, K582, K660/K662, Onan opposed twin cylinder engines, or virtually any opposed twin cylinder small engine with a fabricated bracket. Mounting hardware included for custom applications. Two 90º spark plug boots and terminals included. Can be used with A-1 Miller's custom-made crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition or the low capacity condenser with points listed further above. IMPORTANT: Use new copper core/non-resistor AC Delco, Autolite or Champion spark plugs of the correct type gapped at .025" each for longer coil life. Use of a resistor type or NGK spark plug will void warranty. Draws approximately 3 amps with points or electronic ignition. Dimensions: 4" overall length including mounting bracket x 2-1/8" body width x 15" low tension wires x (2) molded-in 24" length spark plug wires. 20,000 volts output. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

High Quality Chrome-Plated 4.0 Ohm Oil Filled 12 Volt Canister Ignition Coil with Dual Metal Core Conductor Spark Plug Wires for Opposed Twin Cylinder Engine. Fits Kohler engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II. Same diameter as OEM Kohler coil. Two 90º spark plug boots and terminals included. Can be used with A-1 Miller's custom-made crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition or the low capacity condenser with points listed further above. IMPORTANT: Use new copper core/non-resistor AC Delco, Autolite or Champion spark plugs of the correct type gapped at .025" each for longer coil life. Use of a resistor type or NGK spark plug will void warranty. Draws approximately 3 amps with points or electronic ignition. Includes: (1) dual tower chrome-plated ignition coil, (2) rubber spark plug wire grommets, (2) plastic thread-on coil boots, (2) 90º spark plug boots w/terminals, and (2) 18" length spark plug wires. Coil dimensions: 4-1/4" length (excluding towers) x 2-1/8" body width x 2-1/4" tower end band width. 20,000 volts output. Replaces Kohler part # 52 755 48-S. $64.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Epoxy-Encapsulated 4.0 Ohm 12 Volt Canister Ignition Coils for Opposed Twin Cylinder Engine. Each coil below fits Kohler engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II. Can be used with A-1 Miller's custom-made crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition or the low capacity condenser with points listed further above. IMPORTANT: Use new copper core/non-resistor AC Delco, Autolite or Champion spark plugs of the correct type gapped at .025" each for longer coil life. Use of a resistor type or NGK spark plug will void warranty. Draws approximately 3 amps with points or electronic ignition.

  • High Quality Aftermarket. Same appearance and dimensions as OEM Kohler coil. Replaces Kohler part # 52 755 48-S. $62.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler coil with spark plug wires; part # 52 755 48-S. $337.00 each, plus shipping and handing.

Epoxy-Encapsulated 12 Volt Ignition Coils for Opposed Twin Cylinder Engine. Each listed below fits Kohler engine models K482, K532, K582, or virtually any opposed twin cylinder small engine with a fabricated bracket. Can be used with A-1 Miller's custom-made crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition or the low capacity condenser with points listed further above. IMPORTANT: Use new copper core/non-resistor AC Delco, Autolite or Champion spark plugs of the correct type gapped at .025" each for longer coil life. Use of a resistor type or NGK spark plug will void warranty. Draws approximately 3 amps with points or electronic ignition.

  • High quality aftermarket. 5.0 ohm internal primary resistor. 20,000 volts output. Replaces Kohler part # 277375-S. $55.00 each, plus shipping & handing.
  • High quality aftermarket. 3.0 ohm internal primary resistor. 30,000 volts output. Replaces Kohler part # 277375-S. $55.00 each, plus shipping & handing.
  • OEM Kohler Coil, part # 277375-S. $293.10 each, plus shipping and handing.
High Quality High Performance Copper or Metal Core 7mm Spark Plug Wire Assemblies Listed Below. Universal design for many applications. Suitable for general lawn & garden equipment, small motorized vehicles or competition garden pulling tractor engines. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series II, K482, K532, K582 and K660/K662 (with wires cut to desired length) and other makes and models of small engines with a battery-powered ignition system. Don't be fooled by the dark color, these wires have a metal core that provide 100% voltage to the spark plug for a strong spark! Copper or metal wire delivers maximum energy with zero ohm resistance to the spark plug, which allow the ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. (Most OEM automotive or brightly-colored coil-to-spark plug wires have a suppression/carbon core that deliver about 40%-50% voltage to the spark plug at peak demand, which is at wide open throttle engine operation.) Solid brass terminals for maximum conductivity and corrosion resistance. Snug-fitting quality rubber boots keep out dirt and moisture for reliable engine start up. Engineered for reliability and long life. Spring-lock terminals insure positive and secure connection through the toughest conditions and multiple spark plug changes. Please specify if you need the boot for a 5/8" (fits most dual wire twin cylinder coils and high-output/performance coils) or 3/4" (fits most standard-output coils) diameter coil tower.
  • 10" Length Metal Core Spark Plug Wire with Straight Coil Boot/Terminal and 90º/Angled Spark Plug Boot/Terminal Installed. Fits Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321 and K341 with coil mounted next to carburetor on upper left side of flywheel shroud. Replace defective coil-to-spark plug wire or use this part when converting from Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition. High quality aftermarket. Fabricated A-1 Miller's part. Irrelevant Kohler part number. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 13" Length Metal Core Spark plug Wire with Straight Coil Boot/Terminal and 90º/Angled Spark Plug Boot/Terminal Installed. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K241, K301, K321 and K341 with coil mounted on carburetor side of engine on lower left part of flywheel shroud or on starter/right side of engine. Also fits Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) engine models K241, K301, K321, K341 and K361 with coil mounted above starter motor, or use this part when converting from Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition. High quality aftermarket. Fabricated A-1 Miller's part. Replaces discontinued OEM Kohler part # 238057-S. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 11" and 19" Length Metal Core Spark Plug Wire Set with Straight Coil Boot/Terminal and 90º/Angled Spark Plug Boot/Terminal Installed. Fits Kohler engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) and KT19 Series II. High quality aftermarket. Fabricated A-1 Miller's parts. Replaces discontinued Kohler part #'s 52 348 01-S (11") and 52 348 02-S (19"). $20.00 for two spark plug wires, plus shipping & handling.
  • Two 18" Length Metal Core Spark Plug Wire Set with Straight Coil Boot/Terminal and 90º/Angled Spark Plug Boot/Terminal Installed. Fits Kohler engine models K482, K532, K582, K660/K662, or Onan opposed twin cylinder engines. High quality aftermarket. Fabricated A-1 Miller's parts. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 238057-S. $20.00 for two spark plug wires, plus shipping & handling.
  • 25-1/2" length spark plug wire. Universal application. OEM Kohler part # 25 348 01-S. $13.80 each, plus shipping & handling.
Complete Battery-Powered Ignition Conversion Kits Listed Below - When Kohler's OEM magneto or Breakerless Ignition fails, the engine can be converted to a battery-powered ignition system. Battery-powered ignition systems last longer, produce a stronger spark, and when a part goes bad, it doesn't cost much to replace. It's a reliable, simple design and there's no guesswork about it. FYI: Battery-powered ignition conversion kits are intended mainly for various older engines when the OEM magneto or Breakerless Ignition no longer produce a spark, replacement parts are not available, are very expensive or cost prohibitive. (Sometimes one must improvise when certain parts are obsolete.) Also, the most hassle when using battery-powered ignition without a charging system integrated with the engine to recharge the battery is the use of a remote battery charger. And eventually a new battery will need to be purchased, because they only last a few years. For a battery to power the ignition, a small, lightweight and rechargeable 12 volt sealed lead acid (SLA) battery with a minimum 4Ah (Amp Hour) rating or a small motorcycle battery can be used.

FYI - Kohler's Breakerless Ignition and Tecumseh's (cast iron engine) Solid State Ignition (SSI) systems use a [security] key switch that's also made for a self-energizing magneto or magneto-type solid state ignition system. Unlike the key switch for a battery-powered ignition system, the Breakerless Ignition is self-energizing, and to kill the engine, the key switch grounds out or shorts the [low voltage] circuit between the energizing coil and ignition module. And the battery-powered key switch opens the circuit to kill the engine. So with the battery-powered points and condenser ignition system (along with a 12 volt coil), you will need to use a battery-powered key switch, or an OFF-ON toggle switch or [security] key switch to power the ignition and a momentary push button starter switch to crank the engine could be used instead. If swapping out the OEM Breakerless Ignition, SSI, magneto or solid state ignition key switch for a battery-powered ignition key switch, the wire connectors in the wiring harness plug will need to be rearranged to match the terminals on the key switch to power the ignition, crank the engine and run other electrical accessories. I've done this before on some of my customer's garden tractors and it works great. Click/tap here for battery-powered ignition wiring diagrams.

Several years ago, an out of town customer brought his John Deere model 110 to our shop for repairs. This tractor has a Kohler engine model K181 with self-energizing magneto ignition and a 10 amp alternator charging system. (The ignition coil and charging coils are on the same armature/stator plate under the flywheel.) My customer told me that he had another reputable small engine repair shop in his hometown install a new spark plug, points, condenser and an entirely new stator assembly, but they could not get the engine to rev up.

Anyway, I put the tractor on the sturdy platform table that I built to make it easier to work on. The engine would start right up and idle well, but failed to rev up. It would just die out when throttled up. So I cleaned and inspected the entire carburetor, including clearing out anything that may have been lodged in the main jet; tried a new Autolite 295 copper core spark plug gapped at .030"; cleaned and reset the points gap; tried another new condenser; removed the new stator assembly and reinstalled the original stator assembly; installed a new OEM Kohler magneto armature ignition coil on the stator; and even tried a different flywheel, but with all of these things, one after the other, the engine would still die out above idle, no matter what. Then I connected a temporary battery-powered ignition system with jumper wires with alligator clips just to find if the engine would rev up at open throttle, and it did, with no problems! Then after all of this, I found that the charging system would not generate the full 10 amps to recharge the battery. It would only generate about 3 amps. (The tractor has a factory-installed 15 amp gauge.) The voltage rectifier/regulator was in good condition too, but there was nothing I could do to fix this.

So after some thoughtful consideration, I came to the conclusion that the OEM Kohler part # 237876 self-energizing magneto ignition/charging system stator assembly is obviously a notorious, bad design. Although this system is still available new from Kohler, Kohler discontinued installing this on certain engines only after a short time. (Apparently, for an obvious reason.)

Anyway, I decided (actually, I had no choice because I was so determined) to convert the engine to the more reliable battery-powered ignition system. But being this JD 110 has a confined engine compartment with limited space with the air cleaner assembly that fastens directly to the carburetor with no upward intake elbow. Plus, there is no bolt holes on the engine block to mount the adapter plate for a full size 12 volt canister ignition coil! So I devised a way to fasten a new compact epoxy-encapsulated 12 volt armature ignition coil on the carburetor side of the flywheel shroud. I removed the shroud, located where to drill two 7/32" holes to mount the coil, and although Rivet Nuts could have been used, I just tack-welded a couple of 10-24 UNC (or 10-32 UNF) nuts inside the shroud. Then I used a couple of spacers for the coil's armature, and fastened the coil to the nuts through the shroud with a couple of matching 10-24 UNC (or 10-32 UNF) screws with split lock washers. (The coil looked nice on the engine, like it's factory installed.) I could have tack-welded the head of the screws on the inside of the flywheel shroud instead, and fastened the coil with a couple of nuts on the screws from the outside. Either way would've worked fine. Anyway, then I replaced the OEM JD 110 magneto-type off-ignition-start key switch with a new universal battery-type off-ignition-start key switch. I traced each wire from the OEM key switch and rearranged the slide-on spade connectors in the plastic connector housing on the switch to match the terminals on the battery-type ignition key switch and connected the "I" terminal on the switch to the [+] terminal on the coil so the ignition system will work. I reused the same ignition points and low capacity condenser with the compact coil. The low capacity/magneto ignition condenser worked great with the compact battery-powered armature ignition coil! And I gapped the spark plug at .030" for this compact coil. When I finished, the engine started right up, idled smoothly, and revved up at open throttle with no hesitation or misfire. When my customer came to pick up his tractor, I told him everything I did to it, and being the charging system is weak, he will need to use a 120 volt portable battery charger to keep the battery fully charged.

If you have a similar ignition problem like this and if you're interested, I offer all the parts, including a new compact epoxy-encapsulated 12 volt armature ignition coil kit, that can be used to convert the self-energizing magneto ignition to battery-powered ignition for your tractor. See the complete ignition conversion kit(s) below. I can also convert your tractor from a faulty magneto ignition to the more reliable battery-powered ignition if you don't mind bringing your tractor to my shop. - Brian Miller Click here to contact A-1 Miller's for FREE honest and accurate technical support and/or for ordering information and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website. [Top of Page]


Convert virtually any single cylinder, air-cooled cast iron or various aluminum block small gas engine, such as Kohler, Tecumseh, Briggs & Stratton, Clinton, etc., with a failed self-energizing magneto ignition system to the battery-powered ignition system. NOTE: Must use a universal automotive off/ignition/start key switch, or a push-button switch to crank the engine with an OFF-ON toggle switch or [security] key switch to power this ignition. Reuse same type of spark plug and existing ignition points (if in good condition), but set the point gap at .020" or set ignition timing at 20º BTDC. See ignition kits and wiring diagram below Ê.

High Quality Ignition Kit to Convert from Kohler Magneto Ignition to the More Reliable Battery-Powered Ignition System for a Confined Engine Compartment with Limited Space and no place to mount a full size canister coil. A fully charged 12 volt battery is required for this ignition system. Designed for Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331 and K341. When ordering, please indicate model of engine. New parts include: high energy compact epoxy-encapsulated 12 volt armature ignition coil w/3.5 ohm internal primary resistor and integrated metal core spark plug wire, with mounting spacers/screws/nuts; low capacity condenser/capacitor; ignition points; points cover gasket; 9" length "assemble-it-yourself" #16 gauge (AWG) coil-to-points wire w/terminals (reuse original points cover/wire grommet); and new spark plug. To install terminal on spark plug wire, make sure the pointed prong on the terminal penetrates the insulation of the wire, or strip a short part of the insulation and bend over the wire to make full connect with the terminal, and use a spark plug wire crimping tool, then apply automotive grease on the spark plug wire and inside boot so it will slide easily on the wire and over the terminal. And if using this kit on an engine with a recoil starter, as for the battery cables, being I have no idea how long they need to be, you will need to fabricate these yourself. When ordering, please specify model of engine for correct type of spark plug. Dimensions of coil - overall length of armature: 3-1/2" x diameter of coil body: 1-1/4" x widest width of coil body: 1-1/2" x mounting hole spacing: 3-1/8" x length of spark plug wire: 13-1/2". To install this coil, drill two 7/32" holes in alignment with holes in coil's armature through flywheel shroud next to carburetor or above starter gear and tack-weld the two supplied nuts (in alignment with drilled holes) or tack-weld head of screws (to serve as studs) to inside of shroud, and securely fasten coil with the two supplied spacers, lock washers to nuts or screws. (When fastened to flywheel shroud, coil will have a nice, distinctive appearance, and like it's factory-installed.) Use #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors when connecting wires to this coil terminals. Set spark plug gap at .030" with this system. IMPORTANT - Either an OFF-ON-START 12 volt battery-powered ignition key switch, a momentary push button starter switch (to crank the engine if it is equipped with an electric starter) with an OFF-ON toggle switch or OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition) MUST be used with this type of ignition system. Go here for choice of switches. The original magneto coil can be removed from the stator. It will not be needed. If the stator has charging coils, leave them installed and connected so they can recharge the battery and power electrical accessories. IMPORTANT - All coils will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle switch to power the ignition system. A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.)

  • Complete Ignition Kit listed above without any switches. (Customer supplies own switches.) $69.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON toggle ignition switch for engines with a recoil starter. $72.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON toggle ignition switch and momentary push button starter switch for engines with an electric starter. $81.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON-START battery-powered ignition key switch for engines with an electric starter. $84.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON ignition key switch and momentary push button starter switch for engines with an electric starter. $93.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling.


High Quality Ignition Kit to Convert from Kohler Magneto Ignition to the More Reliable Battery-Powered Ignition System for an Unconfined Engine Compartment with Unlimited Space to mount a full size canister coil. A fully charged 12 volt battery is required for this ignition system. Designed for Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331 and K341. When ordering, please indicate model of engine. New parts include: full size 12 volt canister ignition coil w/3.0 ohm internal primary resistor and mounting bracket, 11" length metal core conductor spark plug wire, medium capacity condenser/capacitor, ignition points, points cover gasket, 12" length "assemble-it-yourself" #16 gauge (AWG) coil-to-points wire w/terminals (reuse original points cover/wire grommet), and new spark plug (please specify model of engine when ordering for correct type of spark plug). Set spark plug gap at .035" with this system. And if using this kit on an engine with a recoil starter, as for the battery cables, being I have no idea how long they need to be, you will need to fabricate these yourself. IMPORTANT - Either an OFF-ON-START battery-powered ignition key switch or an OFF-ON toggle ignition switch or an OFF-ON key ignition switch (for security purposes) and a momentary push button starter switch (to crank the engine if it is equipped with an electric starter) MUST be used with this type of ignition system. Go here for choice of switches. And the original magneto coil can be removed from the stator. It will not be needed. If the stator has charging coils, leave them installed and connected so they can recharge the battery and power electrical accessories. IMPORTANT - All coils will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle switch to power the ignition system.

  • Complete Ignition Kit listed above without any switches. (Customer supplies own switches.) $65.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON toggle ignition switch for engines with a recoil starter. $68.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling..
  • Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON-START battery-powered ignition key switch for engines with an electric starter. $80.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON ignition key switch and momentary push button starter switch for engines with an electric starter. $89.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]

Click/tap Here for a Custom-Made, 100% Reliable and Maintenance-Free Electronic Ignition System That Operate Off the Flywheel End of a Lawn & Garden Small Engine to Eliminate the Points and Condenser.

Click/tap Here for a Custom-Made, 100% Reliable and Maintenance-Free Crank-Trigger Electronic Ignition System That Operate Off the PTO End of a Competition Pulling Small Engine to Eliminate the Points and Condenser.

New points, condensers/capacitors, coils and spark plugs for other makes and models of engines are also available. Please call or email A-1 Miller's for your needs. Click here to contact A-1 Miller's for FREE honest and accurate technical support and/or for ordering information and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website. [Top of Page]


Custom-Made Reliable and Maintenance-Free Electronic Ignition Systems That Operate Off the Flywheel End of Virtually Any Older Small Engine to Replace Old-Fashioned Points and Condenser or OEM Solid State Ignition

Get that old, antique small gas engine running again with 21st century technology using 100% reliable digital electronic ignition, even when new replacement parts are obsolete or cost-prohibited. Electronic ignition can be installed on virtually any small gas engine. Where there's a will, there's a way. It's mind over matter. Click here to contact A-1 Miller's for FREE honest and accurate technical support and/or for ordering information and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website. [Top of Page] [Return to previous paragraph, section or website]

FYI - I can install virtually any of my custom-made flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition systems on your older small gas engine and/or rewire your lawn & garden tractor, small engine equipment, small motorized vehicle or competition garden pulling tractor so all the electrical accessories will work and if everything else is in good condition with the engine (compression, carburetion, etc.), the engine should start quickly, idle smoothly and rev up at its full potential every time. I have the knowledge, skills, all the tools and parts necessary to perform a professional job. I've rewired many of my customer's lawn & garden tractors, small engine equipment and competition garden pulling tractors with great results. If you're interested, click/tap here for my contact information and directions to A-1 Miller's shop. - Brian Miller

This is the era of modern wonders, where everything is electronic, transistorized, digitized and miniaturized. Yet even today, many competition garden pulling tractors with an older engine still use the old-fashioned breaker point ignition systems. For other people, the frustration of attempting to keep a breaker point-fired tractor in peak running condition has been enough of a reason to join the electronic/solid state electronic ignition era. Breaker point systems do have some positives, though. ignition points are cheap and somewhat easy to install. And many people are comfortable with installing their own ignition points. The bad side of using ignition points is, besides the ignition points contacts burning, pitting and wearing out, if or when the ignition points lobe on the (Kohler) camshaft and/or the ignition points pushrod become worn, this will narrow the gap on the ignition points, and retard the ignition timing. The ignition points lobe can wear so much that resetting the ignition points at the factory setting of .020" or setting the ignition timing at 20º BTDC becomes impossible. As the point gap gets too narrow, the ignition timing will become retarded (less than the factory setting of 20º BTDC), which will cause the engine to run sluggish and lose power, and when it gets too wide, the timing will become too advanced (more than the factory setting of 20º BTDC), which will cause the engine to run hotter than normal, which could cause premature engine wear and oil burning, eventually resulting in an engine rebuild. There's also less chance of a dangerous fire due to non-existence of ignition points.

Self-energizing small engine magneto armature ignition coils and battery-powered coils with either points and condenser or electronic ignition must be used with a metal core conductor spark plug wire and a copper core/non-resistor spark plug. Most automobiles with electronic ignition have suppression/carbon core spark plug wires only to prevent interference of sensitive electronic components and [AM/FM] radio static. However, if a suppression/carbon core spark plug wire and/or a resistor type spark plug is used with a magneto or battery-powered ignition coil, the coil may operate at a much higher than normal temperature (too hot to the touch), and either the coil will fail or the engine will idle well, but hesitate to rev up at high RPM due to the high resistance in the suppression/carbon core spark plug wire and/or a resistor type spark plug. And avoid using a suppression/carbon core spark plug wire with an electronic ignition system on a small engine! The reason being is if the suppression/carbon core spark plug wire becomes extremely weak and deteriorated with very high resistance, this can cause the ignition coil and possibly the electronic ignition control module to burn up.

NOTE: With my Universal Solid State Electronic Ignition Module and crank-trigger/flywheel-trigger ignition systems (all listed below), when installed accordingly, the ignition timing is ALWAYS advanced. If it's set or installed retarded, it will NOT automatically advance as soon as the engine starts. If the timing is set retarded, the only way to advance it is by rotating an ignition plate or ignition distributor manually by hand, or automatically by a vacuum canister with intake manifold, or by centrifugal force with flyweights.

When the timing is retarded, the engine may start with no problems, but not idle or rev up too well, and it'll lack sufficient power. Also, with retarded timing, all of the fuel in the combustion chamber will not be burned. Part of the raw fuel will exit out of the exhaust, while the rest will remain in the chamber combustion and cling to the cylinder wall, causing the crankcase lubricating oil to become diluted or thin-out. When this happens, "cylinder wash down" will result. Cylinder wash down is when the gas (or diesel fuel) dilutes the light coating of oil on the cylinder wall, and the piston rings will no longer be adequately lubricated, causing direct metal to metal contact, which will cause them to wear excessively, and cause the cylinder wall have a protruding ridge towards the top, resulting in a smoky, oil burning engine overtime. Cylinder wash down can also happen to a diesel engine when the fuel injectors are purposely "turned up" to increase the fuel delivery so the engine will produce more power. This will cause a lot of black smoke be blown out the exhaust all the time (at idle and especially upon acceleration), which will result in shorter engine life, and eventually, gray exhaust smoke (crankcase oil ash) will be mixed with the black exhaust smoke (partially burned diesel fuel ash). It'll run good for a while!

But when the ignition timing is too advanced, this will cause the engine to run too hot, which will likely cause the piston(s) to swell larger than normal, allowing it/them to make metal to metal contact against the cylinder wall, resulting in excessive wear. When the piston wears, it will be too loose in the cylinder, causing a rattling sound. Plus, due to the worn piston, the rings will loose their square edge against the cylinder wall, and become rounded, which will allow oil to be moved to the top of the piston instead of being scraped back into the crankcase. (This is the how the 2nd or middle ring works.) Plus, the rings will lose their expansion against the cylinder wall as well. Eventually, the engine will blow blue or gray smoke out the exhaust, and it will ultimately need to be rebuilt.

If electronic ignition is installed correctly, when the ignition is triggered by the flywheel, this stabilizes the timing, so you won't ever have to worry about it changing. The engine will produce more power and you will have more confidence that the engine will last longer. (As long as an air filter is used, the carburetor is adjusted correctly and the crankcase oil is changed regularly.) So for the utmost precision ignition timing and maintenance-free convenience, flywheel-trigger electronic ignition is the way to go! The high performance electronic ignition systems offered in this website produce a stable and a very strong spark with the use of microelectronics. They will help the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly, rev up at open RPM with no hesitation or misfire and produce more power.

As a matter of fact, electronic ignition works so well, this is why most small engine manufacturers dropped their points and condenser ignition and went to the more dependable and reliable electronic ignition in 1982. And most automotive manufacturers started installing the more dependable and reliable electronic ignition in their vehicles since 1972 (Chrysler products) and 1974 (GM and Ford products).

Tired of cleaning, changing or constantly readjusting the ignition points, and replacing the condenser? Well, upgrade/convert the engine with an A-1 Miller's custom-made, maintenance-free and weather-proof 100% digitized flywheel-trigger electronic ignition system! Shock and moisture resistant, and all it takes is a few simple hand tools to install. In my opinion, getting rid of the points and condenser/capacitor have been the best advance ever in engine technology. FYI - I've designed and sold many various custom-made electronic ignition systems to customers for the past several years and haven't received one complaint about the performance of their engine. Because I use technology that I learned from experiences with my competitive competition pulling tractors (engines) to help factory stock lawn & garden engines perform better. And as a matter of fact, other people have emailed or called me to complain to me about my competitor's replacement electronic ignition systems for Tecumseh engines. They said their technical customer service assistance to resolve the problem was of no help. No joke. Apparently, my competitors haven't quite figured it out yet.

FYI - Kohler's Breakerless Ignition and Tecumseh's (cast iron engine) Solid State Ignition (SSI) systems use a key switch that's also made for a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system. Unlike the key switch for a battery-powered ignition system, the Breakerless Ignition is self-energizing, and to kill the engine, the key switch grounds out or shorts the [low voltage] circuit between the energizing coil and ignition module. And the battery-powered key switch opens the circuit to kill the engine. So with the battery-powered points and condenser ignition system (along with a 12 volt coil), you will need to use a battery-powered key switch, or an OFF-ON toggle switch or [security] key switch to power the ignition and a momentary push button starter switch to crank the engine could be used instead. If swapping out the OEM Breakerless Ignition, SSI, magneto or solid state ignition key switch for a battery-powered ignition key switch, the wire connectors in the wiring harness plug will need to be rearranged to match the terminals on the key switch to power the ignition, crank the engine and run other electrical accessories. I've done this before on some of my customer's garden tractors and it works great. Click/tap here for battery-powered ignition wiring diagrams.


Replace Old-Fashioned, Out-Dated and Troublesome Points and Condenser in Virtually Any Magneto Ignition System with the State of the Art Universal Solid State Electronic Ignition Module! [Top of Page] [Return to previous paragraph, section or website]
  • Designed to convert a self-energizing magneto ignition system into the more reliable and dependable electronic ignition system. Will NOT work with a 12 volt battery-powered ignition system. If used with 12 volts, the module will burn up instantly when power is supplied.
  • Upgrade the magneto ignition system on virtually any engine with the latest technology! Do away with the ignition points and condenser/capacitor (plug the points pushrod hole), and install a solid state electronic ignition module. It should be the end of your ignition problems. The ignition points and condenser/capacitor is not to be connected to the coil or module. They need to be removed from the engine and plug the ignition points pushrod hole (Briggs & Stratton or Kohler engines).
  • Designed to be used on engines with the new style one piece automatic compression release (ARC) camshaft.
  • This universal and high performance ignition system have been thoroughly tested under extreme conditions, and produces a stable and very strong spark with the use of microelectronics, helping the engine to start quickly, idle smoothly and rev up at open RPM with no hesitation or misfire to produce more power. This module has a durable die-cast aluminum housing. Weather-proof and very reliable. Ignition timing is automatically set. Resulting in no "kickback" and no timing adjustment required. Works excellent with virtually any magneto armature ignition coil!
  • Suitable for use with most 2 leg or 3 leg magneto coils and with a flywheel having one or two magnets mounted internally or externally, and with coil mounted underneath or outside of flywheel. Works great regardless of the polarity of the magnets, too. Works on most lawn mowers, chain saws, trimmers, garden tillers, snow throwers, brush cutters, various one or two cylinder outboard boat motors, etc., with ignition points and condenser/capacitor ignition. But will not work with most Stihl trimmers and chain saws, or when the armature ignition coil is energized by a generator that gets its power from the magnet in the flywheel, such as various outboard boat motors. Usually, the coil don't need replacing when substituting the ignition points and condenser/capacitor with one of these solid state electronic ignition modules. If the engine ran, then the coil is obviously good.
  • Works only with magneto type armature ignition coils originally connected to contact ignition points and a condenser/capacitor. They will not work with solid state electronic ignition (CDI) coils, battery ignition coils or with flywheels having a ring of magnets mounted internally to which the ignition coil (mounted underneath flywheel also) operates off of, such as the bigger aluminum block Tecumseh engines (8hp and up). Engines can't start under full compression and with advanced ignition timing. One or the other must be "suppressed" in order for the engine to crank over without "kicking back" to start. Either it needs to have an automatic compression release to relieve about half the compression, then the compression will return at open upon start up, or the timing needs to be positioned at TDC, then it can automatically advance upon start up. (With the module, as each magnet pass the coil, it'll produce a spark. And if the spark don't occur at the precise time with the piston at a certain position in the cylinder, the engine will either "kickback" or will not run.) "Kickback" occurs when the crankshaft/flywheel suddenly and quickly momentarily rotates in the opposite direction, which is could bend or break the starter armature shaft or the aluminum starter housing. If the magnets for the charging system won't interfere with the magneto coil(s), then these modules should work well. But if the magneto coil(s) operate off the same magnets for the charging system, then neither module won't work. The modules senses when the magnet pass the coil and that's when it makes the spark. If a bunch of magnets continually pass the coil, then the coil will produce an array of sparks.
  • How the timing is automatically set and how it works: First of all, with ignition points, the point gap determines where the ignition timing is set (on systems with a fixed or non-adjustable armature ignition coil). Therefore, the spark occurs when the magnet in the flywheel pass the coil armature the moment the ignition points open. But with no ignition points, the magnet still pass the coil armature at the same moment, which sends an electrical current through a transistor and electronic components within these modules. This current is sent in the form of a signal to the module; within, a transistor opens the primary circuit in the coil and the spark occurs. All this happens at the speed of electricity, which can be anywhere from about 50% to 99% of the speed of light, depending upon the quality of the electronic components and Wiring connections. Either module provides unlimited RPM. The conventional ignition points and condenser/capacitor ignition system is less responsive. With this module, the ignition timing will never change.
  • And I'm not sure how to test for a bad or faulty solid state electronic ignition module. They either work or don't work. And to tell the truth, I've never had one go bad. Usually, if there's no spark, then either the module is not properly grounded to the engine, the module is installed too close to the engine exhaust heat, the connectors on the module needs to be reversed, a faulty wiring connection, the coil is bad or the spark plug is fouled (red or white spark).
  • This module should work very well with most magneto armature ignition coils. However, a new coil is recommended to use with this module. If a used coil is utilized, a weak spark may occur. This module is not for use on engines equipped with battery ignition, solid state electronic armature ignition coil/module or multiple magnets under the flywheel with armature ignition coil under the flywheel, too. Scroll down for wiring diagrams and installation instructions Ê. Video of this ignition module installed on a running engine coming soon.

Wiring Diagram and Installation Instructions for Universal Solid State Electronic Magneto Ignition Module are as follows:

  1. Fasten the module to the engine sheet metal that has plenty of cool, circulating air with the supplied mounting screw.
  2. Connect the supplied wire to one of the terminals on the module and to engine ground.
  3. The armature ignition coil has two small wires coming out of it. Leave the original (short) wire connected (grounded) to the stator armature, and connect the wire that went to the points and condenser to the unused terminal on the module.
  4. Remove the spark plug from the cylinder head, and connect the high tension coil wire to a new spark plug positioned on a (grounded) metal part of the engine.
  5. Crank the engine rapidly, and at the same time, observe for a blue, snappy spark. If there's no spark, try reversing the two wires on the module. (This is due to reverse polarity in the flywheel magnet.). Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any of these parts or services.


3/16" Steel Plug to Replace Kohler Ignition Points Pushrod. Use in Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, K482, K532 and K582 when converting from magneto to solid state ignition (listed above), Magnum solid state ignition, A-1 Miller's flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition (further down in this website). Remove the points cover, ignition points and pushrod, and install this plug in the pushrod hole (to prevent major oil leakage) with a medium size hammer; fits very tight. No need to reinstall cover and points. NOTE: The alternative to using this plug is to remove the ignition points and points pushrod, and place the pushrod on a hard, flat surface, and use a hammer and sharp flat cold chisel to lightly create knurled raised marks midway on the pushrod. Then reinstall the knurled pushrod in the engine block with the hammer. Or a 20 penny common nail cut off to 1/2" length and the end ground to a bevel will serve the same purpose. The knurling will retain the pushrod in the hole. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.) OEM Briggs & Stratton part #'s 231143, 692882. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling. [Return to previous paragraph, section or website]


Convert the Magneto or Battery-Powered Points/Condenser Ignition System to a Reliable and Maintenance-Free Flywheel-Triggered Battery-Powered Electronic Ignition System on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301 or K321 with the Small Flywheel and Starter/Generator | [Top of Page]

This ignition system works flawlessly, is very reliable and may outlast the life of the engine. This ignition system requires 12 volts DC negative ground. This high performance ignition system have been thoroughly tested under extreme conditions, and produces a stable and a very strong spark with the use of microelectronics, helping the engine to start quickly, idle smoothly and rev up at full speed with no hesitation. Under normal conditions, a high-output/performance coil is not needed with this system. To prevent burning up the PerTronix Ignitor module, it MUST be used with a coil having a minimum of 3.0 ohm resistance. Most small engine battery ignition coils have a 3.0 or 4.0 ohm internal primary resistor. But test your coil just to make sure! Click/tap here to learn how to test the ohm resistance in a coil. This ignition system may outlast the life of the engine. This revolutionizes the ignition system for older cast iron block Kohler engines with the starter/generator and 8" flywheel! All replacement ignition parts are readily available. The PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor electronic ignition sends more energy to the coil, which delivers twice the voltage to the spark plug, increasing horsepower, engine efficiency and spark plug life. Hall Effect integrated circuit means no points to burn, and no moving parts to wear out. Epoxy molding makes the module/sensor impervious to dirt, oil, grease and moisture. Stable timing - no need for any adjustments. This system can be used on ordinary lawn & garden engines or for competition pulling engines (if rules permit) with battery-powered ignition. The ignition timing will always be set at the factory recommended 20º BTDC, or wherever you set it. And being the ignition timing will be advanced at all times with this module, it will not work on the older Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K241 and K330/K331 with the old-style two piece camshaft that automatically advances the timing (with points) as soon as the engine starts. Therefore, separate ignition and starter switches must be used, or a later model camshaft with the automatic compression release (ACR) mechanism will need to be installed in the engine. And if this custom electronic ignition is used in a garden tractor with a longitudinal engine, such as Cub Cadet, Economy Power King, Ford, hydrostatic-drive John Deere, MTD Farm King Model 960, Pennsylvania Panzer, Meteor, Copar, etc., the module/sensor and trigger screw with magnet and rubber washer (prevents the delicate magnet from possibly breaking when lightly fastened against the uneven rough casting of the flywheel) will be easier to install with the engine removed from the tractor. A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.)

IMPORTANT: Most failures of a battery-powered ignition coils and/or electronic ignition control modules are caused by either the use of suppression/carbon-core spark plug wire(s), resistor-type spark plug(s), or overcharging of the electrical system due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery. Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging system. Also, any coil will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle switch to power the ignition system. Also, the coil could burn up if the charging system continually overcharge due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or a defective [automotive] battery.

  • Compact and out-of-the-way design. Module/sensor fits under the flywheel shroud, fastens on the bearing plate next to the flywheel. No "bulky ignition box" and wiring to clutter the engine compartment.
  • Stable ignition timing with solid state electronic circuitry. No points to burn or wear, and no need for adjustment... ever!
  • Epoxy molded sealed module/sensor makes this part impervious to dirt, oil, grease and moisture.
  • 2:1 improvement over points in current fall time for increased coil output.
  • Compatible with most ignition coils with a minimum of 0.3 ohm primary resistance. IMPORTANT - Do not use a coil of lesser ohm resistance because it may cause the module/sensor to burn up.
  • This type of electronic ignition sends more energy to the coil, which delivers twice the voltage to the spark plug, increasing horsepower, engine efficiency and spark plug life. It helps the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly, rev up at open RPM with no hesitation or misfire and produce more power. Cold weather engine start-up energy boost and maintains peak energy throughout the entire engine RPM.

Directions to Install This Kit - Click/tap here to print out these installation instructions.

  1. Remove the points and condenser and block-off the points pushrod hole with the supplied plug. Failure to do this will cause a major oil leak out the hole.
  2. Align the S mark on the flywheel with the center of the timing sight hole on the back of the bearing plate or on the side of the flywheel shroud, and with the flywheel in place and standing still, draw a horizontal line on the outside of the flywheel and on the bearing plate at the 10:30 position (on the clock face). This will be the location on the bearing plate to install the PerTronix Ignitor.
  3. On the outside of the flywheel, draw another line vertically or crossway 1" up or away from the bearing plate with the line that was drawn on the flywheel to create a + intersection. It is at or near this location where the trigger screw/magnet/rubber washer is installed in the flywheel. The screw must be centered with the PerTronix Ignitor to avoid a misfire.
  4. Very carefully drill and tap 6-32 UNC threads in the flywheel where the two lines intersect and install the supplied trigger screw/magnet/rubber washer (weighs approximately 1/10 oz. / 2.8 grams) in this spot. The screw head is magnetized to trigger the spark. This spot allows the screw/magnet/rubber washer to clear the flywheel shroud mounting boss located at the 4:30 position on the bearing plate. Click/tap here to learn how to professionally cut new threads. NOTE: The rubber washer prevents the delicate magnet from possibly breaking when lightly fastened against the uneven rough casting of the flywheel. IMPORTANT: To prevent from possibly loosening, secure screw in flywheel or rotating disc with high strength liquid threadlocker (Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent). Tighten screw just when the rubber begin to bulge, and allow the Loctite to dry and harden overnight. The PerTronix Ignitor hall effect module/sensor is activated by the South pole of the magnet, so do not remove the magnet from the screw!
  5. With the S mark on the flywheel aligned or centered with the timing sight hole in the bearing plate, center the Ignitor with the magnet, allow .010"-.050" clearance, mark on the bearing plate and drill and tap 6-32 UNC threads in the bearing plate to mount the Ignitor and spacer. Click/tap here to learn how to professionally cut new threads. Be sure to apply thermal paste (to dissipate normal operating heat) between the Ignitor and aluminum spacer to help cool the module, and then securely fasten the Ignitor and aluminum spacer to the bearing plate with the supplied 6-32 UNC screws and split lock washers. IMPORTANT - Gently rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand to check and see that the module/sensor does not make contact with the screw head. Damage to the module/sensor will occur if it makes contact with the screw head!
  6. Drill a 5/16" hole through the bearing plate behind the Ignitor and route the wires from the Ignitor to the ignition coil. Bevel or chamber the drilled hole, use a rubber grommet or apply clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant in the hole and around the wires to hold the wires rigid to prevent the insulation on the wires from rubbing and possibly being shorted.
  7. Disconnect and do away with the wires to the points and condenser (plug the points pushrod hole). Connect the BLACK wire on the Ignitor to the coil negative (–) terminal, and connect the RED wire on the Ignitor to the coil positive [+] terminal and to the ignition switch (positive [+] battery post). IMPORTANT - The module/sensor will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle switch to power the ignition system.
  8. With an ordinary (OEM) stock coil, set the spark plug gap .035" and place the spark plug on a grounded metal part of the engine. Turn the ignition switch on to supply power to the coil, and rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand so the magnet passes the module and observe for a strong, "snappy" blue spark at the spark plug's tip. IMPORTANT: Use a new copper core/non-resistor AC Delco, Autolite or Champion spark plug of the correct type gapped at .025" for longer coil life. Use of a resistor type or NGK spark plug will void warranty.
  • Kit Without Any Ignition Coil. Customer reuse their own 3.0+ ohm coil. Click here to learn how to check the ohms resistance in a coil. Kit includes: New hall effect PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor, aluminum spacer, thermal paste and mounting screws, trigger screw w/magnet and protective rubber washer, and plug for the points pushrod hole. $96.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Kit With New Compact Epoxy-Encapsulated Armature Ignition Coil. Coil fastens on outside of flywheel shroud with mounting nuts or head of mounting screws tack-welded to inside of shroud. Includes: New hall effect PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor, aluminum spacer, thermal paste and mounting screws, trigger screw w/magnet and protective rubber washer, new high energy compact 3.5 ohm coil w/mounting hardware and wire connectors, and plug for the points pushrod hole. $121.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Kit With New Full Size canister Ignition Coil. Includes: New hall effect PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor, aluminum spacer, thermal paste and mounting screws, trigger screw w/magnet and protective rubber washer, new full size 3.0 ohm coil with wire connectors, and plug for the points pushrod hole. $121.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Please let me know which kit you need and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options.

PerTronix Ignitor hall effect module/sensor with black and red wires. Choice of flange mount or rear mount. Produces a very strong spark, even with a stock coil. Under normal conditions, a high-output/performance coil is not needed with this module. IMPORTANT: Must be used with a minimum 3.0 ohm coil or module will burn up, and a sturdy, fabricated bracket to prevent timing fluctuations. Click here to learn how to check the ohms resistance in a coil. IMPORTANT - Connect RED wire to coil positive [+] terminal and to ignition switch (battery positive [+] post), and connect BLACK wire to coil negative [–] terminal. This module/sensor is not diode-protected. It will not burn up instantly if the wires are connected in reverse. Also, this module/sensor will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle switch to power the ignition system. Use with small steel screw w/ring magnet (listed below) fastened on rotating disc, edge of flywheel or backside of flywheel (in the case of an Onan twin cylinder engine) to trigger the spark. $75.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


PerTronix Ignitor II hall effect module/sensor with black and red wires. Versatile; compensates or automatically adjusts for the ohms in the coil and is diode-protected. This module will not burn up if the wires are connected in reverse. Can be used with virtually any coil with a minimum of 0.4 ohms resistance. Produces a very strong spark, even with a stock coil. Under normal conditions, a high-output/performance coil is not needed with this module. IMPORTANT: Module may burn up if ohms is less than 0.4. Click here to learn how to check the ohms resistance in a coil. This module/sensor will NOT burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. Use with small steel screw w/ring magnet (listed below) fastened on rotating disc, edge of flywheel or backside of flywheel (in the case of an Onan twin cylinder engine) to trigger the spark. $123.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


Detectable Steel Target Screw w/Magnet and Protective Rubber Washer for Custom Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition Systems. Head of screw becomes magnetized. Fasten on edge of flywheel, rotating disc or backside of flywheel (in the case of an Onan twin cylinder engine) to trigger the spark when using a 3-wire hall effect proximity sensor or PerTronix Ignitor hall effect module/sensor. 8-32 UNC x 1/2" length hardened steel Phillips head screw. Click/tap here to learn how to professionally cut new threads. Weighs about 1/10 oz. / 2 grams. NOTE: The rubber washer prevents the delicate magnet from possibly breaking when lightly fastened against the uneven rough casting of the flywheel. IMPORTANT: To prevent from possibly loosening, secure screw in flywheel or rotating disc with high strength liquid threadlocker (Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent). Tighten screw just when the rubber begin to bulge, and allow the Loctite to dry and harden overnight. The PerTronix Ignitor hall effect module/sensor is activated by the South pole of the magnet, so do not remove the magnet from the screw! A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller because nobody else advertise this type of product. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.) $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Please let me know if you're interested in purchasing this item and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options.

Click here to contact A-1 Miller's for FREE honest and accurate technical support and/or for ordering information and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website. [Top of Page]


If a Kohler flywheel has no projection (hump) or large bolt head for Breakerless Ignition, but does have a 3/4" wide area between the fins and ring gear (as shown in the photos above È), or a billet steel flywheel, to use a magnetic pickup coil, 3-wire inductive (detects iron/steel) proximity sensor, a small, short steel Phillips or button head socket (Allen) Head screw and a minimum 1/4" length aluminum spacer secured with a split lock washer or high strength liquid threadlocker (Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent) can be used as the signal detection for the flywheel-trigger electronic ignition. A steel dowel pin or knurled steel pin could be used instead of a screw or spiral pin, but because of exerted centrifugal force, the screw would be more secure due to its thread retention. FYI - Store a container of liquid threadlocker or Super Glue upright and not laying flat. The capped tip will not dry out and clog when stored upright.

The curvature or dome shape heads of button- and Phillips-head screws makes them ideal for use on a trigger disc or flywheel. Spark occurs at the leading (high side) edge of the hump or screw, and not in the center of the hump or screw. When the magnetic pickup coil or cube-shape proximity sensor is at the leading edge of the hump and when the S mark on the flywheel is aligned with the raised line on the bearing plate, it is at this point the timing is at 20º BTDC. But if the flywheel has the 3/4" wide area, but no projection (hump) or large bolt head, with the magnetic pickup coil or cube-shape proximity sensor installed on the bearing plate and the 20º BTDC mark on the flywheel aligned with the raised line on the bearing plate.

When using an inductive proximity sensor, being proximity sensors detect a farther distance (up to 3/16") than a magnetic pickup coil, install a 3/4" length steel screw with a 1/4" length aluminum spacer (to retain flywheel balance). This will extend the detectable target 1/4" above the surface of the flywheel to prevent an out of time spark occurrence by part of the flywheel itself. Or if using a non-magnetic pickup coil, 3-wire hall effect proximity sensor or a hall effect PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor, a small ring magnet fastened by a small screw can be used to create a rotating magnet detection target. The head of the screw will become magnetized.

An 8-32 UNC or 10-32 UNF x 1/2" length screws with a split lock washer (and small magnet) only weighs about 1/10 of an ounce or 2.8 grams, so this will not make the flywheel significantly noticeably or dangerously out of balance. But if you're concerned about the flywheel being out of balance with the trigger screw/bolt, pin or screw w/ring magnet installed, the flywheel can be static balanced by weighing the flywheel and screw/bolt, pin or screw w/ring magnet separately on a precision scale, make a note of the exact weight of each item, and either install a stainless steel screw of the same exact weight as the trigger screw and magnet on the opposite side of the flywheel (180º apart), or drill a couple of shallow holes into the flywheel next to or beside the installed trigger screw/bolt, pin or screw w/ring magnet to put the flywheel back in balance. Make sure the flywheel is perfectly clean of dirt and debris, too. Actually, it's best to have the flywheel with the trigger screw/bolt, pin or screw w/ring magnet installed dynamically precision spin-balanced on a automotive balancing machine. Again, make sure the flywheel is perfectly clean of dirt and debris.

And for the ignition timing to be set at 20º BTDC, with the S mark on the flywheel and raised line on the bearing plate aligned, the screw will need to be located at 2-3/8" when using a magnetic pickup coil or proximity sensor. This setup can be adapted to a Kohler engine with the flywheel that has the starter/generator and gear starter alike. Or it can be applied to an engine with a steel flywheel for competition pulling. And the mounting holes in the angled bracket for the magnetic pickup coil can be elongated for precise adjustment/setting of the timing. If there's already a projection (hump) or large bolt head on the flywheel, then there's no need to modify the flywheel for this conversion or upgrade. If they're not already present, new 10-24 UNC threads will need to be drilled and tapped in the two raised bosses in the bearing plate to mount the bracket for the sensor's bracket. An original, ingenious, thoroughly researched and innovative concept invented by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this for use on a small engine. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.)


Information About Converting from a Failed OEM Kohler Breakerless Ignition System to a Custom-Made Battery-Powered Electronic Ignition System or a Battery-Powered Points/Condenser Ignition System | [Top of Page]

The wire that connects from the stator (under the flywheel) to the Kohler Breakerless Ignition Trigger Module or Tecumseh Solid State Ignition Module generates about 250 volts (seriously) while the engine is running at full governed speed. (Seriously; I tested it with an accurate voltmeter.) Do not touch this wire/terminal with one bare hand and the engine/chassis/frame with your other hand while the engine is running! Electrical shock or electrocution could result! This wire is not required with any of A-1 Miller's custom-made flywheel-trigger electronic ignition systems. So snip it off or tape up the terminal.

NOTE: On all Kohler engines with Breakerless Ignition, there is a tiny (3/16") brass cup/expansion cup plug in the points pushrod hole. This is to prevent oil from leaking out the crankcase with Breakerless Ignition. This plug MUST be removed to use the points pushrod when converting to points/condenser ignition. To prevent damage to certain moving parts inside the engine and possible eventual internal engine failure, do not push this plug into the crankcase! It may NOT drain out with the oil either. If it is pushed into the crankcase, the oil pan will need to be removed in order to remove the brass plug. To remove this plug from outside the engine, carefully and gently drill a 7/64" pilot hole through the plug, then use a #6 self-tapping drywall screw (a small ordinary self-tapping screw may not work as well) with small Vise-Grips or a small crowbar or pry bar hooked to the screw to pull the plug out of the hole. Because without drilling the hole first, the self-tapping drywall screw by itself may not be able to bore a hole through the plug without pushing it deeper into the pushrod hole. And do not force the drill bit into the plug or it could get pushed inside the crankcase! Use a new drill bit if necessary. When the plug is removed, a 3/16" drill bit or hand reamer may need to be used to clean out any debris/rust from the pushrod hole. After the points is properly installed, and with the piston positioned at TDC on the compression stroke, set the point gap at .020", or better yet, set the ignition timing at 20º BTDC, and definitely use a copper core/non-resistor spark plug of the correct type gapped at .035".


Custom-Made Electronic Ignition Kits (below) for Converting to Flywheel-Trigger Ignition for Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321, K341, K361 that came with points/condenser ignition or Breakerless Ignition. Do away with the old fashioned points and condenser ignition, or defective and cost-prohibitive Breakerless Ignition components, and convert your engine to the reliability, dependability and durability of flywheel-trigger ignition! NOTE: Engine must have the large bearing plate with two mounting bosses to install the triggering device and 9" flywheel with 3/4" wide area with the projection (hump) or large bolt head, or install a small screw/bolt (so the sensor can detect it). Must also use an OFF-ON toggle switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; for ignition) and momentary push-button switch (to crank the engine) for ignition system below Ê. With this ignition setup, the ignition timing will be set at 20º BTDC, and reuse same type of spark plug, but set gap at .035" for a stronger spark.

Option #1 - Complete Kit to Convert from [a failed] OEM Kohler Breakerless Ignition to the More Reliable A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition System. Designed for Kohler engine models K181, K241, K301 and K321 that originally came with Breakerless Ignition, because these have a large bolt head (early design) or a cast-in projection (hump) on the edge of the flywheel. This ignition system works flawlessly and may outlast the life of the engine. This high performance ignition system have been thoroughly tested under extreme conditions, and produces a stable and a very strong spark with the use of microelectronics, even with a stock ignition coil, helping the engine to start quickly, idle smoothly and rev up at open RPM with no hesitation or misfire and produce more power. Under normal conditions, a high-output/performance coil is not needed with this system. With this custom ignition system, the timing will never change. This ignition system may outlast the life of the engine. All replacement ignition parts are readily available. This revolutionizes the ignition system for older cast iron block Kohler engines! NOTE - Being this ignition system requires 12 volts DC negative ground, the OEM key switch for Breakerless Ignition will not work with any battery-powered ignition systems. The switch used with Breakerless Ignition is actually a magneto ignition switch, which when the engine is shut-down, it grounds the self-energizing wire connected to the ignition system. And battery ignition requires a switch that disconnects the coil from the power source (battery). So with this ignition system, you will need either an OFF-ON-START battery-powered ignition key switch, or an OFF-ON toggle switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition) and a momentary push button starter switch. Go here for choice of switches. To install this replacement ignition system; the ignition coil mounts in place of the Breakerless Ignition coil; the proximity cube sensor/bracket mounts in place of the Breakerless Trigger Module; and the GM 4-pin HEI ignition control module with thermal paste (to dissipate normal operating heat) can be fastened on the backside of the bearing plate, on the left side when facing the flywheel, or on an aluminum plate mounted elsewhere with plenty of cool, circulating air to dissipate the heat and cool the unit while in operation. Two 9/64" holes will need to be drilled and tapped to mount the module. (Sometimes one must improvise when certain parts are obsolete.) This kit has a limited one year warranty. Scroll down to read the wiring connection instructions or click/tap here to print out the wiring diagram and wiring connection instructions. And if this custom electronic ignition is used in a garden tractor with a longitudinal engine, such as Cub Cadet, Economy Power King, Ford, hydrostatic-drive John Deere, MTD Farm King Model 960, Pennsylvania Panzer, Meteor, Copar, etc., it'll be easier to install if the engine is removed from the tractor. This is a thoroughly researched and ingenious concept by Brian Miller. Video of this ignition system installed on a running engine coming soon. Contact Brian Miller for free installation tech support.

IMPORTANT: Most failures of a battery-powered ignition coils and/or electronic ignition control modules are caused by either the use of suppression/carbon-core spark plug wire(s), resistor-type spark plug(s), or overcharging of the electrical system due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery. Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging system. Also, any coil will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle switch to power the ignition system. Also, the coil could burn up if the charging system continually overcharge due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or a defective [automotive] battery.

List of Parts in Kit Includes:

  • New high output cube-shape 3-wire inductive proximity sensor w/mounting adapter and two Allen head mounting screws w/lock washers.
  • New high quality GM 4-pin HEI electronic ignition control module w/packet of thermal paste and two 8-32 UNC x 5/16" hex head self-threading screws (not self-tapping).
  • One 3/16" and three 1/4" slip-on crimp wire connectors (for module), three 3/16" ring crimp wire connectors (for ignition coil and ground W terminal on module), and two nylon wire clamps (loops) to secure wires in place.
  • New 12 volt canister ignition coil w/mounting bracket/clamp.
  • New 10" or 13" length metal core spark plug wire. IMPORTANT - Due to length of spark plug wire, please indicate if original coil is mounted next to carburetor (10" length) or above starter motor (13" length).
  • New Autolite 216 or Champion 844 (H10C) spark plug. Set spark plug gap at .035" with this system.

Installation Instructions: Click/tap here to print out the wiring diagram and installation/wiring connection instructions.

  • Fasten the cube-shape proximity sensor on the two bosses that's on the bearing plate with the supplied Allen head screws and split lock washers. If there are no threaded holes in the bosses, drill with a 5/32" bit, and cut 10-24 UNC threads in the bosses. Route the insulated wires on the sensor through the hole in the bearing plate. Click/tap here to learn how to professionally cut new threads.
  • Mounting of module requires two 9/64" drilled holes. To install module behind bearing plate, use a close quarters power drill or use an ordinary 3/8" power drill with a custom-made 7" length x 3/8" diameter drill bit extension with a 9/64" drilled end hole and two Allen set screws to secure the 9/64" drill bit. (As shown to the right ->.) If engine is equipped with a mechanical fuel pump, it will need to be removed for installation of the module, then reinstalled afterwards.
  • Use the two supplied 8-32 UNC x 5/16" hex head self-threading screws to fasten HEI module with the supplied dielectric grease between the module onto back of bearing plate or an aluminum plate with cool circulating air to dissipate the operating heat. Mounting holes in module body must be grounded to engine/chassis ground (battery negative (–) post).
  • Connect the BLACK wire on the sensor to the [G] terminal on the module.
  • Connect the BLUE wire on the sensor to the [W] terminal on the module and to engine/chassis ground (battery negative (–) post). NOTE: The [W] terminal on the module does not need to be connected to anything, but the blue wire on the proximity sensor must be grounded.
  • Connect the ignition coil negative (–) terminal to the [C] terminal on the module. For competition pulling - if the grounding-type kill switch is used, connect the ungrounded wire from the kill switch to this terminal. Or for a generator engine, connect this terminal with a semiconductor rectifier diode to "excite" or temporarily energize the field windings in the generator.
  • Connect the BROWN wire on the sensor to the [B] terminal on the module, and to the ignition coil positive (+) terminal and to the ignition switch (battery positive (+) post).
  • The cube-shape proximity sensor has a built-in LED (Light Emitting Diode). If the proximity sensor is wired correctly, the LED will illuminate when in close proximity to the detectable target.
  • Complete Ignition Kit listed above without any switches. (Customer supplies own switches.) $150.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON toggle ignition switch and momentary push button starter switch. $165.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON pull-push ignition switch and momentary push button starter switch. $165.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON ignition key switch (for security reasons) and momentary push button starter switch. $251.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON-START battery-powered ignition key switch. $165.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Please let me know which kit you need and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options.


Option #2 - Complete Kit to Convert from [a failed] OEM Kohler Breakerless Ignition OR a Cast Iron Block Briggs & Stratton Engine Magneto Ignition System with Points and Condenser to the More Reliable Battery-Powered Points and Condenser Ignition System with a Full Size Canister 12 Volt Ignition Coil. Designed for Kohler engine models K181, K241, K301, K321 that originally came with Breakerless Ignition. New parts include: 12 volt 3.0 ohm full size canister ignition coil w/mounting bracket, metal core conductor spark plug wire, medium capacity condenser/capacitor, ignition points, stainless steel points pushrod, points cover, points cover gasket, four 10-24 UNC Phillips head screws w/lock washers, Autolite 216 or Champion 844 (H10C) spark plug, and 12" cut-to-length #16 gauge (AWG) coil-to-points wire w/terminals and points cover/wire grommet. IMPORTANT - Due to length of spark plug wire, please indicate if original coil is mounted next to carburetor (10" length) or above starter gear (13" length). Set spark plug gap at .035" with this system. NOTE - Being this ignition system requires 12 volts DC negative ground, the OEM key switch for Breakerless Ignition will not work with any battery-powered ignition systems. The switch used with Breakerless Ignition is actually a magneto ignition switch, which when the engine is shut-down, it grounds the self-energizing wire connected to the ignition. And battery ignition requires a switch that disconnects the coil from the power source (battery). So with this ignition system, you will need either an OFF-ON-START battery-powered ignition key switch, or an OFF-ON toggle switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition) and a momentary push button starter switch. Go here for choice of switches. IMPORTANT: Most failures of a battery-powered ignition coils and/or electronic ignition control modules are caused by either the use of suppression/carbon-core spark plug wire(s), resistor-type spark plug(s), or overcharging of the electrical system due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery. Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging system. Also, any coil will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle switch to power the ignition system. Also, the coil could burn up if the charging system continually overcharge due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or a defective [automotive] battery.

  • Complete Ignition Kit listed above without any switches. (Customer supplies own switches.) $93.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON toggle ignition switch and momentary push button starter switch. $108.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON ignition key switch and momentary push button starter switch. $120.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Complete Ignition Kit listed above with an OFF-ON-START battery-powered ignition key switch. $150.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Please let me know which kit you need and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options.

Click here to contact A-1 Miller's for FREE honest and accurate technical support and/or for ordering information and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website. [Top of Page]


3/16" Steel Plug to Replace Kohler Ignition Points Pushrod. Use in Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, L160/L161, L181, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, K482, K532 and K582 when converting from magneto to solid state ignition (listed above), Magnum solid state ignition, A-1 Miller's flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition (further down in this website). Remove the points cover, ignition points and pushrod, and install this plug in the pushrod hole (to prevent major oil leakage) with a medium size hammer; fits very tight. No need to reinstall cover and points. NOTE: The alternative to using this plug is to remove the ignition points and points pushrod, and place the pushrod on a hard, flat surface, and use a hammer and sharp flat cold chisel to lightly create knurled raised marks midway on the pushrod. Then reinstall the knurled pushrod in the engine block with the hammer. Or a 20 penny common nail cut off to 1/2" length and the end ground to a bevel will serve the same purpose. The knurling will retain the pushrod in the hole. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.) OEM Briggs & Stratton part #'s 231143, 692882. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling. [Return to previous paragraph, section or website]

A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition Conversion Kits for Kohler opposed twin cylinder engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) and KT19 Series II, except generator engines | [Top of Page]

A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit for Kohler opposed twin cylinder engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) and KT19 Series II, and perhaps Magnum engines with the KT-series flywheel installed, except generator engines. These type of ignition system is very reliable, works flawlessly and, may outlast and extend the life of the engine. Replaces points and condenser. This high performance ignition system have been thoroughly tested under extreme conditions, and produces a stable and a very strong spark with the use of microelectronics, even with the stock OEM canister ignition coil, helping the engine to start quickly, idle smoothly and rev up at open RPM with no hesitation or misfire to produce more power. This revolutionizes the ignition system for the opposed twin cylinder Kohler engines! With points (and condenser) ignition, the factory setting for the timing on these engines is 23º BTDC. Being the points is operated off the camshaft, and being there's slight free-play/clearance between the gear teeth on the camshaft and crankshaft (which is normal), the ignition timing can fluctuate a few degrees, resulting in slight loss of engine power. And sometimes the lobe for the points pushrod on the cam will wear, which will make setting the timing at full 23º BTDC impossible, which will also cause the engine to lose power. (Both of these are confirmed in the official Kohler KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II service manual.) And with a worn points lobe, the entire engine will need to be completely disassembled to replace the camshaft. This custom-made electronic ignition system maintains the timing at 23º BTDC at all times because it operates off the flywheel, which is driven by the crankshaft. With this custom ignition system, the timing will never change. It works the same as crank trigger ignition. The OEM Kohler [4.0 ohm] opposed twin cylinder canister ignition coil works excellent with this ignition module/sensor to produce a a very strong spark. To prevent burning up the PerTronix Ignitor module, it MUST be used with a coil having a minimum of 3.0 ohm resistance. A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.)

NOTE: If your engine is hard to start, looses power and dies when hot, and restarts when cooled, and repeats this over and over, then chances are, it needs a professional valve job performed and valve clearances reset to factory specs. Because installing electronic ignition will not fix a faulty valve problem. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in having a professional valve job performed on your KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20 cylinders/jugs or entire engine.

Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit below specifically made for KT17 first design and KT19 first design engines. Kit includes: New PerTronix Ignitor hall effect module/sensor fastened on adjustable/slotted aluminum mounting plate, two 10-24 UNC screws w/flat washers and lock washers, two aluminum spacers, target screw w/magnet and rubber washer (prevents the delicate magnet from possibly breaking when lightly fastened against the uneven rough casting of the flywheel), two new Autolite 26 or Champion 25 (RV17YC) spark plugs, and points pushrod hole block-off plate (use with silicone sealant). Use this ignition system with the OEM off-ignition-start key switch and dual wire ignition coil. All replacement ignition parts are readily available. And if this custom electronic ignition is used in a garden tractor with a longitudinal engine, such as Cub Cadet, Economy Power King, Ford, hydrostatic-drive John Deere, MTD Farm King Model 960, Pennsylvania Panzer, Meteor, Copar, etc., it'll be easier to install if the engine is removed from the tractor.

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS for KT17 first design and KT19 first design engines. This option can also be used on the KT17 Series II and KT19 Series II engines, and perhaps Magnum engines with the KT-series flywheel installed. Video of this ignition system installed on a running engine coming soon. Scroll down to read the wiring connection instructions or click here to view and print out these installation instructions.

  1. Use a Sharpie metallic silver permanent marker to locate and install the trigger screw w/magnet and rubber washer on the flat area on the flywheel above the T mark as shown in the photo to the right ->. This will place the ignition timing in alignment with the center of the PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor when the S mark on the flywheel is in exact alignment with the roll pin on the cylinder (which is positioned at 23º BTDC). The screw head is magnetized to trigger the spark. There is no need to remove the flywheel to drill and tap the threads to accept the supplied 6-32 UNC trigger screw. Click/tap here to learn how to professionally cut new threads. To prevent from possibly breaking off drill bit or tap, secure the flywheel so it does not rotate one way or the other while drilling hole and/or cutting threads! NOTE: The rubber washer prevents the delicate magnet from possibly breaking when lightly fastened against the uneven rough casting of the flywheel. IMPORTANT: To prevent from possibly loosening, secure screw in flywheel or rotating disc with high strength liquid threadlocker (Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent). Tighten screw just when the rubber begin to bulge, and allow the Loctite to dry and harden overnight. The PerTronix Ignitor hall effect module/sensor is activated by the South pole of the magnet, so do not remove the magnet from the screw! FYI - Store a container of liquid threadlocker or Super Glue upright and not laying flat. The capped tip will not dry out and clog when stored upright.
  2. Being there are no two bosses on the cooling fins of the #1 cylinder (right side of engine when facing the flywheel) of the KT17 first design and KT19 first design engines, use the side casting of the valve spring compartment on the #1 cylinder facing the flywheel to mount the PerTronix Ignitor mounting plate and two posts/supports. See the [mock up] photo in this section.
  3. On the #1 cylinder, remove the crankcase breather assembly and plug the crankcase breather vent hole leading into the crankcase. This will prevent drill cuttings from entering into the crankcase, which could cause severe engine wear overtime.
  4. Locate in the general area of the valve spring compartment where to drill and tap two 10-24 UNC screw holes spaced 1" apart (to match adjustment slots in the PerTronix Ignitor mounting plate) with a TAPER [preferably] hand tap for fastening the PerTronix Ignitor mounting plate and two posts/supports. If a T-shape tap wrench is used, there will be no need to remove the flywheel to do this. Click here to learn how to professionally cut new threads. See the [mock up] photo in this section.
  5. When the new threads are made, thoroughly clear out the metal cuttings from inside the valve spring compartment with 150± PSI compressed air and an air blow gun nozzle. Failure to do this could cause excessive wear to the internal engine parts! Be sure to use eye protection! Then be sure to remove the plug from the crankcase vent hole.
  6. After fastening the PerTronix Ignitor mounting plate and two posts/supports to the side of the valve spring compartment, set the clearance between the module/sensor and trigger screw w/magnet and rubber washer at .010"-.050" with a paper, plastic or brass feeler gauge, and securely tighten the two supplied 3/16" screws with lock washers to the valve spring compartment. IMPORTANT: Slowly rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand to check that the screw doesn't make contact with module/sensor. If it makes contact, the module could get damaged! On rare occasions, being the casting of the valve spring compartment may be a different width, the mounting plate itself may make contact with the side of the ring gear on the flywheel. If this happens, a couple of thin washers (shims) will be need to be installed under the two posts/supports to allow for sufficient clearance.
  7. Simple two wire connections: Connect the RED wire on the module to the positive [+] terminal on the ignition coil (which connects to the ignition switch and positive (+) battery post), and connect the BLACK wire to the negative (–) terminal on the coil. There are no other wire(s) that connect to the negative (–) terminal on the coil. The module/sensor is grounded through the engine to the negative (–) battery post. IMPORTANT: The module/sensor will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle switch to power the ignition system.
  8. Turn the ignition switch on to supply power to the coil, and rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand so the magnet passes the module and observe for a strong, "snappy" blue spark at the spark plug's tip(s). IMPORTANT: Use a new copper core/non-resistor AC Delco, Autolite or Champion spark plug of the correct type gapped at .025" for longer coil life. Use of a resistor type or NGK spark plug will void warranty.
  9. Remove the points, pushrod (and condenser) and install the block-off plate to cover the points pushrod hole. Apply RTV silicone sealant to prevent oil leak and use the OEM ignition points mounting screws to secure the block-off plate in place.
  • A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition Kit designed ONLY for Kohler engine models KT17 (first design) and KT19 (first design). Cannot be used on models KT17 Series II or KT19 Series II. $185.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Please let me know if you're interested in purchasing this kit and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options.


Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit below specifically made for KT17 Series II and KT19 Series II engines (and perhaps Magnum engines with the KT-series flywheel installed). Kit includes: New PerTronix Ignitor hall effect module/sensor fastened on aluminum mounting plate and square steel tubing, two 1/4" x 1-1/2" length grade 8 bolts w/lock washers, target screw w/magnet and rubber washer (prevents the delicate magnet from possibly breaking when lightly fastened against the uneven rough casting of the flywheel), two Autolite 26 or Champion 25 (RV17YC) spark plugs, and points pushrod hole block-off plate (use with silicone sealant). Use this ignition system with the OEM off-ignition-start key switch and dual wire ignition coil. All replacement ignition parts are readily available. And if this custom electronic ignition is used in a garden tractor with a longitudinal engine, such as Cub Cadet, Economy Power King, Ford, hydrostatic-drive John Deere, MTD Farm King Model 960, Pennsylvania Panzer, Meteor, Copar, etc., it'll be easier to install if the engine is removed from the tractor.

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS of the module/sensor specifically for KT17 Series II and KT19 Series II engines, (and perhaps Magnum engines with the KT-series flywheel installed) - Video of this ignition system installed on a running engine coming soon.

  1. Use a Sharpie metallic silver permanent marker to locate and install the trigger screw w/magnet and rubber washer on the flat area on the flywheel above the T mark as shown in the photo to the right ->. This will place the ignition timing in alignment with the center of the PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor when the S mark on the flywheel is in exact alignment with the roll pin on the cylinder (which is positioned at 23º BTDC). The screw head is magnetized to trigger the spark. There is no need to remove the flywheel to drill and tap the threads. The screw hole must be professionally drilled and tapped to accept the supplied 6-32 UNC trigger screw. Click here to learn how to professionally cut new threads. To prevent breaking off drill bit or tap, secure the flywheel so it does not rotate one way or the other while drilling hole and/or cutting threads! NOTE: The rubber washer prevents the delicate magnet from possibly breaking when lightly fastened against the uneven rough casting of the flywheel. IMPORTANT: To prevent from possibly loosening, secure screw in flywheel or rotating disc with high strength liquid threadlocker (Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent). Tighten screw just when the rubber begin to bulge, and allow the Loctite to dry and harden overnight. The PerTronix Ignitor hall effect module/sensor is activated by the South pole of the magnet, so do not remove the magnet from the screw! FYI - Store a container of liquid threadlocker or Super Glue upright and not laying flat. The capped tip will not dry out and clog when stored upright.
  2. Use the two bosses on the #1 cylinder to mount the bracket with the ignition module/sensor. Being there are no bolt holes in the bosses, the center of each boss must be professionally drilled and tapped to accept the supplied 1/4-20 UNC x 1-1/2" length grade 8 bolts with split lock washers. Click/tap here to learn how to professionally cut new threads. IMPORTANT! Drill only 3/4" deep; do not drill all the way through the cylinder wall! To guarantee the 3/4" depth, use a drill stop (small locking collar) secured at the 3/4" depth. There is no need to remove the flywheel to do this. See the [mock up] animated photo to the right.->
  3. After mounting the bracket with the module/sensor, set the clearance between the module/sensor and trigger screw w/magnet and rubber washer at .010"-.050" with a paper, plastic or brass feeler gauge, then securely tighten the two 1/4" bolts in the bosses. Slowly rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand to check that the screw doesn't make contact with module/sensor. Do not allow the screw in the flywheel make contact with the module/sensor at any time because it could get damaged!
  4. Simple two wire hook-up: contact the RED wire on the module to the positive [+] terminal on the ignition coil, and connect the BLACK wire to the negative (–) terminal on the coil. The module/sensor is grounded through the engine. IMPORTANT - The module/sensor will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle switch to power the ignition system.
  5. Turn the ignition switch on to supply power to the coil, and rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand so the magnet passes the module and observe for a strong, "snappy" blue spark at the spark plug's tip(s). IMPORTANT: Use a new copper core/non-resistor AC Delco, Autolite or Champion spark plug of the correct type gapped at .025" for longer coil life. Use of a resistor type or NGK spark plug will void warranty.
  6. Remove the points, pushrod (and condenser) and install the block-off plate to cover the points pushrod hole. Apply RTV silicone sealant to prevent oil leak and use the OEM ignition points mounting screws to secure the block-off plate in place.
  • A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition Kit that can be used on Kohler engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) and KT19 Series II. $185.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Please let me know if you're interested in purchasing this kit and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options.

PerTronix Ignitor hall effect module/sensor with black and red wires. Choice of flange mount or rear mount. Produces a very strong spark, even with a stock coil. Under normal conditions, a high-output/performance coil is not needed with this module. IMPORTANT: Must be used with a minimum 3.0 ohm coil or module will burn up, and a sturdy, fabricated bracket to prevent timing fluctuations. Click here to learn how to check the ohms resistance in a coil. IMPORTANT - Connect RED wire to coil positive [+] terminal and to ignition switch (battery positive [+] post), and connect BLACK wire to coil negative [–] terminal. This module/sensor is not diode-protected. It will not burn up instantly if the wires are connected in reverse. Also, this module/sensor will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle switch to power the ignition system. Use with small steel screw w/ring magnet (listed below) fastened on rotating disc, edge of flywheel or backside of flywheel (in the case of an Onan twin cylinder engine) to trigger the spark. $75.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


PerTronix Ignitor II hall effect module/sensor with black and red wires. Versatile; compensates or automatically adjusts for the ohms in the coil and is diode-protected. This module will not burn up if the wires are connected in reverse. Can be used with virtually any coil with a minimum of 0.4 ohms resistance. Produces a very strong spark, even with a stock coil. Under normal conditions, a high-output/performance coil is not needed with this module. IMPORTANT: Module may burn up if ohms is less than 0.4. Click here to learn how to check the ohms resistance in a coil. This module/sensor will NOT burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. Use with small steel screw w/ring magnet (listed below) fastened on rotating disc, edge of flywheel or backside of flywheel (in the case of an Onan twin cylinder engine) to trigger the spark. $123.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


Detectable Steel Target Screw w/Magnet and Protective Rubber Washer for Custom Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition Systems. Fasten on rotating disc, edge of flywheel or backside of flywheel (in the case of an Onan twin cylinder engine) when using a 3-wire hall effect proximity sensor or PerTronix Ignitor hall effect module/sensor to trigger the spark. 8-32 UNF x 1/2" length hardened steel Phillips head screw. Click/tap here to learn how to professionally cut new threads. Weighs about 1/10 oz. / 2 grams. NOTE: The rubber washer prevents the high strength but delicate and brittle magnet from possibly breaking when the screw is tightened to the uneven or rough casting on the flywheel. IMPORTANT: To prevent from possibly loosening, secure screw in flywheel or rotating disc with high strength liquid threadlocker (Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent). Tighten screw just when the rubber begin to bulge, and allow the Loctite to dry and harden overnight. The PerTronix Ignitor hall effect module/sensor is activated by the South pole of the magnet, so do not remove the magnet from the screw! A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller because nobody else advertise this type of product. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.) $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Please let me know if you're interested in purchasing this item and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options.

Click here to contact A-1 Miller's for FREE honest and accurate technical support and/or for ordering information and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website. [Top of Page]


COMING SOON! A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Reliable and Maintenance-Free Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit for Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582. This easy to install ignition system will produce a stronger and stable spark to help the engine to start quickly, idle smoothly and rev up at open RPM with no hesitation or misfire to produce more power. Pictures of the installed product and installation instructions will be posted here. (Posted 11/2/22) [Top of Page]


A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Replacement Electronic Ignition Kit for Tecumseh Cast Iron Block Engines | [Top of Page]

A-1 Miller's Custom-Made, Reliable and Maintenance-Free Replacement Electronic Ignition Kit for Tecumseh engine models VH80, VH100, HH80, HH100, HH120, OH120, OH140, OH150, OH160 and OH180 with a gear starter that have a failed OEM Solid State Ignition Module as shown to the right ->. Fits Tecumseh engine blocks with two bosses with the 2-7/8" bolt hole spacing for the OEM SSI module. This will NOT work on a Tecumseh engine with a starter/generator because there are no protruding pins on the edge of the flywheel to trigger the spark. Works great for lawn & garden, and generator/welder engines! This ignition system works flawlessly and may outlast the life of the engine. This replacement ignition system installs in place of the OEM Tecumseh Solid State Ignition (SSI) module unit and is completely hidden under the flywheel shroud from outside view, with only one wire connection. This high performance ignition system have been thoroughly tested under extreme conditions, and produces a stable and a very strong spark with the use of microelectronics, even with the compact epoxy-encapsulated 12 volt armature ignition coil as shown in the photos, helping the engine to start quickly, idle smoothly, rev up at open RPM with no hesitation or misfire. Epoxy molding makes the module/sensor and coil impervious to dirt, oil, grease and moisture. This ignition system may outlast the life of the engine. This revolutionizes the ignition system for older cast iron block Tecumseh engines! All replacement ignition parts are readily available. NOTE - Being this ignition system requires 12 volts DC negative ground, the OEM key switch for the Tecumseh Solid State Ignition (SSI) will not work with any battery-powered ignition systems. The OEM switch used with SSI is actually for magneto ignition, which when the engine is shut-down, it grounds the self-energizing wire connected to the SSI ignition. And battery ignition requires a switch that disconnects the power source from the ignition. So with this ignition system, you will need either an OFF-ON-START battery-powered ignition key switch, or an OFF-ON toggle switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition) and a momentary push button starter switch. Go here for choice of switches. Limited one year warranty. Actual photo of ignition system shown above. A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller because nobody else advertise this type of custom-made ignition system. Video of this ignition system installed on a running engine coming soon. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.)

IMPORTANT: Most failures of a battery-powered ignition coils and/or electronic ignition control modules are caused by either the use of suppression/carbon-core spark plug wire(s), resistor-type spark plug(s), or overcharging of the electrical system due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery. Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging system. Also, any coil will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle switch to power the ignition system. Also, the coil could burn up if the charging system continually overcharge due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or a defective [automotive] battery.

Replacement Tecumseh Electronic Ignition Kit with PerTronix Ignitor. (Fires off the short pin in the flywheel; remove the long pin. It will not be needed and will interfere with proper operation of the ignition system.) This ignition system requires 12 volts DC negative ground. Includes: new PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor and new high quality, high energy compact epoxy-encapsulated 12 volt armature ignition coil w/integrated metal spark plug wire, both fastened to an aluminum mounting plate, new Autolite 295 or Champion J8C spark plug, new momentary push-button switch (to crank the engine; optional) and new OFF-ON toggle switch/flip switch or [security] key switch (to power the ignition; optional).

Installation Instructions for Replacement Tecumseh Electronic Ignition System listed above | Click/tap here to print out the installation and wiring instructions for this system.

  1. The PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor detects and fires off ONLY the short pin in the flywheel so the engine will run right and produce full power. Therefore, remove or drive down the long pin until it's flush with the surface of the flywheel. FYI - I've done a lot of research on this and the long pin MUST be absent for this ignition system to work right!
  2. Set air gap/clearance between firing pin and module/sensor at .010"-.050" with a paper, plastic or brass (anything non-magnetic) feeler gauge, then securely tighten the mounting fasteners. IMPORTANT - Gently rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand to check to check that the module/sensor does not make contact with the firing pin. Do not allow the module/sensor to make contact with the pin while the engine is running!
  3. If necessary, shorten the spark plug wire (don't make it too short!), and install the terminal and spark plug boot. Install terminal first. Make sure the pointed prong on the terminal penetrates the insulation of the wire, or strip a short part of the insulation and bend over the wire to make full connect with the terminal, and use a spark plug wire crimping tool, then apply automotive grease on the spark plug wire and inside boot so it will slide easily on the wire and over the terminal.
  4. Set the spark plug gap at .030". Turn the ignition switch on to supply power to the coil, and rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand so the magnet passes the module and observe for a strong, "snappy" blue spark at the spark plug's tip. IMPORTANT: Use a new copper core/non-resistor AC Delco, Autolite or Champion spark plug of the correct type gapped at .025" for longer coil life. Use of a resistor type or NGK spark plug will void warranty.

I offer these custom-made electronic ignition kit options:

  • Replacement Tecumseh Electronic Ignition System Kit listed above without any switches. (Customer supplies own switches.) $175.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Replacement Tecumseh Electronic Ignition System Kit listed above with OFF-ON toggle ignition switch and momentary push-button switch (to crank engine). $195.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Replacement Tecumseh Electronic Ignition System Kit listed above with OFF-ON ignition key switch and momentary push-button switch (to crank engine). $240.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Please let me know which kit you need and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options.

FYI - I've been to many car races, and truck and tractor pulls through the years, and I've noticed that when most drivers start their engine, they would crank it over first with a push-button switch, then flip the ignition toggle switch on, and the engine would start every time without hesitation. This is because the engine have a fixed and set in the fully advanced ignition timing position with no retard, and is (obviously) high compression. Starting the engine this way prevents it from kicking back, and it prevents damage to the aluminum starter motor housing. - Brian Miller

FYI - I've been receiving several emails and phone calls from people who purchased another type of custom-made electronic ignition system from another source online for their Tecumseh cast iron block engines. If you're experiencing problems with this other type of ignition, you will need to complain to the person you purchased it from. Because being I'm not familiar with the design of another person's custom-made ignition system, the advice I may give you to get your engine running right may not be 100% accurate. It'll be like the mechanic of a reputable Chevrolet car dealer/repair shop trying to tell someone how to fix their poor performing Ford vehicle. By the way - I thoroughly researched and test every custom-made electronic ignition system that I offer in my websites on the test engines in my shop to insure that they work flawlessly, and I have not received any complaints from my customers so far. - Brian Miller (Posted 8/24/20)

Click here to contact A-1 Miller's for FREE honest and accurate technical support and/or for ordering information and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website. [Top of Page]


Custom-Made Reliable and Maintenance-Free Crank-Trigger Electronic Ignition Systems That Operate Off the PTO End of Virtually Any Older General-Use Small Engine or Competition Pulling Small Engine - Eliminates Old-Fashioned Points and Condenser or Troublesome OEM Solid State Ignition

Be ahead of the pulling competition with 21st century technology using 100% reliable digital electronic ignition! Click here to contact A-1 Miller's for FREE honest and accurate technical support and/or for ordering information and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website. [Top of Page]

FYI - I can install virtually any of my custom-made flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition systems on your older small gas engine and/or rewire your lawn & garden tractor, small engine equipment, small motorized vehicle or competition garden pulling tractor so all the electrical accessories will work and if everything else is in good condition with the engine (compression, carburetion, etc.), the engine should start quickly, idle smoothly and rev up at its full potential every time. I have the knowledge, skills, all the tools and parts necessary to perform a professional job. I've rewired many of my customer's lawn & garden tractors, small engine equipment and competition garden pulling tractors with great results. If you're interested, click/tap here for my contact information and directions to A-1 Miller's shop. - Brian Miller

A new way to revolutionize the ignition system on virtually any small gas engine! Virtually trouble- and maintenance-free, and water-proof. These ignition modules/sensors is a small, lightweight, compact and completely self-contained electronic ignition system built with the latest state-of-the-art engineering with the use of microelectronics. Fits entirely on the engine block; no ignition box and additional wiring to clutter the engine compartment because the electronic ignition control module and pickup coil/sensor are contained in the same sealed casing. The DynaTek Dyna S module/sensor produce a stable and a very strong spark with the use of microelectronics. They will produce a stronger spark to help the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly, rev up at open RPM with no hesitation or misfire and produce more power.

These maintenance-free crank-trigger electronic ignition setups have been thoroughly tested and proven very reliable for general lawn and work, and all classes of single and opposed twin cylinder competition pulling engines. One module/sensor is needed for an opposed twin cylinder engine, and two modules/sensors spaced precisely at 90º apart are required for V-twin engines. These are the same ignition systems used by professional pullers everywhere. Reliable at high RPM, the DynaTek Dyna S or PerTronix Ignitor modules provides unlimited RPM. They will allow the ignition system to operate at the speed of electricity (which can be anywhere from about 50% to 99% of the speed of light, depending upon the quality of the electronic components and wiring connections).

Spark occurs when the magnet embedded in an aluminum locking set screw collar (magnet ring), which is much like an automotive reluctor ring, that's fastened on the crankshaft's PTO end passes the module/sensor. These sensors/modules packs a lot of punch and allow the ignition system operate at 100% efficiency for a stronger spark. When wired correctly, it's normal for the flywheel- and crank-trigger ignition systems to make a spark when first powered up. And if it makes a spark as the sensor passes the metal target object, then the ignition system is working as it should.

NOTE: With all of my crank-trigger ignition systems (all listed below), when installed accordingly, the ignition timing is ALWAYS advanced. If it's set or installed retarded, it will NOT automatically advance as soon as the engine starts. If the timing is set retarded, the only way to advance it is by rotating an ignition plate or ignition distributor manually by hand, or automatically by a vacuum canister with intake manifold, or by centrifugal force with flyweights.

The DynaTek Dyna S module/sensor operates with 12-1/2 to 15 volts DC negative ground, and requires an ignition coil with a minimum 3.0 ohm resistor. Using a coil with less than 3.0 ohm of primary resistance for a long period of time will cause the module to overheat and the engine may misfire until it cools down, or the module/sensor might fail prematurely. A metal conductor spark plug wire and copper core/non-resistor spark plug should be used. If the voltage drops below the minimum requirement for either module/sensor, the engine may idle well, but not rev up, or the engine may run erratic. Either module/sensor can be used with a standard-output/stock or high-output/performance ignition coil, as long as it has a 3.0 ohm internal primary resistor, or connected to a ballast resistor, resulting in 3.0 ohm of resistance.

DynaTek Dyna S Maintenance-Free Crank-Trigger Electronic Ignition Installation Instructions -

A-1 Miller's universal flat aluminum mounting plate with the DynaTek Dyna S ignition module/sensor kits can be adapted for use on various makes and models of one or two cylinder (twin opposing cylinders) small engines. Being there are so many different bolt patterns on the PTO end of Kohler and other makes and models of small engines, these are not a simple "one kit fits all" bolt-on ignition setup. Therefore, customer will need to locate and drill holes in the mounting plate in alignment with the bolt holes on the PTO end of the engine block. If there are no bolt hole(s) on the PTO end of the block, they will need to be drilled and tapped. Click/tap here to learn how to professionally cut new threads. For strength and durability, a minimum of 1/4" bolts (thread size) should be used to fasten mounting plate to PTO end of engine block. Locate and drill (machine) slotted adjustment holes in the mounting plate. And then drill and cut 4-40 NC threads in the mounting plate to fasten the module/sensor. Air gap/clearance between the module/sensor and locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet is .010"-.050". Module/sensor may not operate or engine may misfire if gap is wider than .060". NOTE: Do not allow module/sensor to make contact with locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet while engine is running! Click HERE for custom-made electronic ignition kits that operate off the flywheel end of the engine. These can be used for ordinary lawn & garden engines or stock competition pulling engines.

DynaTek Dyna S Crank Trigger Ignition Kit and Systems for a Single Cylinder Engine listed below. These ignition systems works flawlessly and may outlast the life of the engine. These ignition systems operate off the PTO end of the crankshaft and is mainly for competition pulling engines that have nothing on the PTO end of the crankshaft. NOTE: Slotted mounting holes will be machined in the mounting plate. If the bolt holes in the PTO end of the block don't match the ones in the plate or if bolt holes are not present, then new bolt holes will need to be drilled and tapped in the engine block. Click/tap here to learn how to professionally cut new threads. Can be used on Kohler 10-16hp single or opposed twin cylinder horizontal shaft engines. Set the clearance between the module and locking collar at .010"-.050". IMPORTANT - Gently rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand to check and see that the module does not make contact with the locking collar. Do not allow the module make contact with the locking collar while the engine is running! IMPORTANT - The module will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle switch to power the ignition system.

Click here to contact A-1 Miller's for FREE honest and accurate technical support and/or for ordering information and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website. [Top of Page]


Self-Contained Crank Trigger Electronic Ignition System with an Incorporated High Energy Ignition Coil Fastened on an Angled Aluminum Mounting Plate, and Locking Set Screw Collar w/Embedded Magnet for Kohler Engine Models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, M18 and M20 Competition Pulling Engines Only -

Self-Contained Crank Trigger Electronic Ignition System with an Incorporated High Energy Ignition Coil Fastened on an Angled Aluminum Mounting Plate, and Locking Set Screw Collar w/Embedded Magnet for Kohler Engine Models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, M18 and M20 Competition Pulling Engines Only. Requires 12 volts DC negative ground. Being the aftermarket and OEM Magnum M18 and M20 solid state electronic armature ignition coils will hold up to around 3,600 RPM, when used at higher RPM, the secondary windings within the coil tend to overheat, causing the coil to eventually fail. But this custom-made ignition system helps the engine to rev to its maximum without failing. It works flawlessly and may outlast the life of the engine. It operates off the PTO end of the engine and is mainly for competition pulling engines that have nothing on the PTO end of the crankshaft. The high energy dual-spark plug wire compact armature ignition coil is fastened above the DynaTek Dyna S module on a sturdy aluminum mounting plate; cleans up the engine compartment. IMPORTANT: When ordering, please indicate the bolt hole spacing (measurement) for mounting the angle bracket to the rear closure plate on the PTO end of the engine. Or customer can machine their own adjustable slotted mounting holes. This high performance ignition system have been thoroughly tested under extreme conditions, and produces a stable and a very strong spark with the use of microelectronics, even with the compact armature ignition coil, helping the engine to start quickly, idle smoothly and rev up at open speed. The DynaTek Dyna S module/sensor is triggered by a small magnet embedded in an aluminum locking set screw collar (magnet ring) that's fastened on the crankshaft. Use this setup for durability when the solid state armature ignition coil keeps failing for no apparent reason. All replacement ignition parts are readily available. Simple one wire hook-up; RED wire on module/sensor connects to 12 volt ignition switch (which connects to the positive (+) battery post). This ignition system is grounded through the engine. The DynaTek Dyna S module is diode protected; it will not burn up if the wires are connected in reverse. Kit includes: DynaTek Dyna S module/sensor and high energy dual wire epoxy-encapsulated armature ignition coil with two molded-in metal core conductor coil-to-spark plug wires and 90º spark plug terminals/boots fastened on aluminum mounting plate, and small magnet embedded in an aluminum locking set screw collar (magnet ring), and new battery ignition OFF-IGNITION-START key switch (do not reuse OEM Magnum solid state ignition key switch with this system) or momentary push button starter switch (to crank the engine), OFF-ON toggle switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition) and fully insulated male and female slip-on spade crimp-type wire connectors (to easily connect/disconnect the ignition system to/from the power source). Remove the OEM solid state armature ignition coil and aluminum bracket. They will serve no purpose with this kit. Use with metal core spark plugs gapped at .030" each. When the ignition unit is installed and wire(s) correctly connected, turn the ignition switch on to supply power to the coil, and rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand so the magnet passes the module and observe for a strong, "snappy" blue spark at the spark plug's tip(s). IMPORTANT: Use a new copper core/non-resistor AC Delco, Autolite or Champion spark plug of the correct type gapped at .025" for longer coil life. Use of a resistor type or NGK spark plug will void warranty. Coil can withstand high engine vibrations. Please specify diameter of crankshaft PTO end for the locking set screw collar when ordering. Click here to learn how to set the ignition timing on a KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series II, M18 or M20 engine with crank trigger ignition. Video of this ignition system installed on a running engine coming soon. A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller because nobody else advertise this type of custom-made ignition system. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.)

Click here to contact A-1 Miller's for FREE honest and accurate technical support and/or for ordering information and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website. [Top of Page]


Replacement DynaTek Dyna S Module/Sensor. IMPORTANT: Use with minimum 3.0 ohm coil to prevent burning up module. Click here to learn how to check the ohms resistance in a coil. Simple wiring instructions: Connect BLACK wire to negative (–) terminal on coil and connect RED wire to positive [+] terminal on coil and to ignition switch (which connects to the positive (+) battery post). IMPORTANT - The module will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle switch to power the ignition system. Use with aluminum locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet (magnet ring; listed below) on PTO end of crankshaft to trigger the spark. $70.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Please let me know if you're interested in purchasing this part and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options.

Aluminum Locking Set Screw Collar w/Embedded Trigger Magnet (Magnet Ring). Use with DynaTek Dyna S or hall effect proximity sensors only. When ordering, please specify diameter of crankshaft PTO end or shaft it's to be mounted on. Most common Kohler crankshaft PTO end diameters are 1", 1-1/8", but 3/4", 1-1/4", 1-3/8", 1-7/16" and 1-1/2" are rare. Most billet steel crankshafts have a 1-1/2" diameter PTO end (raised shoulder). Other sizes available. $30.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Please let me know if you're interested in purchasing this part and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options. [Return to previous section]

Click here to contact A-1 Miller's for FREE honest and accurate technical support and/or for ordering information and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website. [Top of Page] [Return to previous paragraph, section or website]


How to Check for Spark and Set the Timing for the DynaTek Dyna S (or PerTronix Ignitor) module/sensors - After either setup is installed on the engine and power is supplied, simply rotate the locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet (loose) on the crankshaft back and forth by hand. Each time the embedded detector/trigger magnet passes the module/sensor, spark should occur. NOTE: Do not use a battery charger alone for power to perform this test. Battery chargers constantly switch between high and low voltage at 60 cycles per second, and the module sees this as the ignition being switched on and off, resulting in a continuous array of sparks.

A simple and precise way to set the ignition timing STATICALLY (engine not running) for either module/sensor -

  1. Place a mark (line) with a permanent ink marker (Marks A Lot or Sharpie) or a flat chisel on the side of the locking collar next to the embedded magnet. This is to indicate where the magnet is located from the side of the collar.
  2. Align the timing mark on the flywheel in alignment with the raised line on the bearing plate where you want the timing to be set.
  3. Align the mark on the collar with center of the module/sensor with the timing mark on the flywheel and raised line.
  4. Tighten the set screw in the collar and the timing will be correctly set.

How to accurately set the ignition timing STATICALLY for the DynaTek Dyna S, PerTronix Ignitor and Inductive 3-Wire Proximity module/sensor - (This is also how to test if the module/sensors or the ignition system is functioning or not.)

  1. Connect the wires correctly for either module/sensor as specified above with a fully charged 12 volt battery connected in the circuit. NOTE: Do not use a battery charger alone to perform this test. Battery chargers constantly switch between high and low voltage at 60 cycles per second, and the module sees this as the ignition being switched on and off resulting in a continuous, constant array of sparks.
  2. Connect a battery-powered test light or multimeter [set on the 12 volt reading] between the negative (–) coil terminal and engine/chassis ground (which connects to the negative (–) battery post).
  3. Rotate the crankshaft to position the flywheel or starter pulley with the desired timing mark aligned with the timing pointer or indicator on the engine. This is close to where the timing needs to be set.
  4. With the Allen set screw loose in the locking ring, again...
  5. Tighten the Allen set screw in the collar on the crankshaft. The ignition timing is now set close to where it needs to be.
  6. Something cool to show off: To make a 12 volt in-dash indicator light or LED flash while cranking the engine and illuminate while the engine is running, for the Dyna S, Ignitor modules or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor connected to the HEI, Chrysler or Ford module, connect the light or LED to the negative (–) coil terminal and engine/chassis ground (which connects to the negative (–) battery post). The LED may shine bright, but the light will be dimly lit. The light or LED will not effect the performance of the ignition system whatsoever. It'll also let you know if the ignition system is working or not.

How to precisely set the ignition timing DYNAMICALLY (engine running) using an automotive inductive timing light for either module/sensor. (This is the most accurate way to set the timing.) NOTE: Timing can be checked, but not set while the engine is running! Do not allow module/sensor to make contact with the locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet while engine is running! -

  1. Start the engine, shine the timing light on the timing mark on the flywheel or starter pulley in relation with the pointer on the engine block to see where the timing needs to be set. NOTE: Do not use a battery charger alone to perform this test. Battery chargers constantly switch between high and low voltage at 60 cycles per second, and the module sees this as the ignition being switched on and off resulting in a continuous, constant array of sparks.
  2. If the timing is not set correctly, shut off the engine and loosen the Allen set screw in the locking collar, slightly rotate crankshaft by hand one way or the other to advance or retard the timing, and position the locking collar with the magnet or screw head centered with the sensor in the module, and tighten the Allen set screw.
  3. Start the engine again, shine the timing light on the timing mark on the flywheel or starter pulley in relation with the pointer on the engine block to see if the timing is set where it needs to be.
  4. Repeat steps 1, 2 and 3 if necessary until the timing is set exactly where it needs to be, and securely tighten the Allen set screw.
  5. No further bore.) OEM are required.


Magnetic pickup coils and round-shape proximity sensors are very sensitive to mechanical damage (and electrical damage if connected wrong). For magnetic pickup coils, set the air gap/clearance from the detectable target (screw, pin or small raised area on the rotating disc) at .010"-.060" with a brass, plastic, business card, poster board, stainless steel (anything non-magnetic) feeler gauge. And being 3-wire inductive proximity sensors have a farther detection range, set the air gap/clearance at .010"-.188". If the gap is wider than .188" (3/16") with either sensor, the ignition system may not produce a spark or the engine could misfire at higher RPM. To prevent the possibility of an out of time spark, the detectable target needs to be a minimum of 3/16" higher than or above the circumference surface of a steel or cast iron rotating disc or flywheel. Direct metal contact with either sensor could damage them. When in doubt if a sensor is mechanically damaged, look at the end of it with the strong magnifying glass to see any damage. If it is damaged, it needs to be replaced. A magnetic pickup coil can be tested with a digital multimeter set on 200m DC, with the negative lead of the meter on the white wire of the pickup coil and positive lead on the black wire, then pass a small steel screw or bolt over the end of the magnetic pickup coil. If the meter shows a reading, the pickup coil is in good condition.

Magnetic Pickup Coils for A-1 Miller's flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition. All magnetic pickup coils are Normally Open. Either can be used with the high-output/performance GM 4-pin HEI module w/1.0 ohm coil, or with the Chrysler or Ford electronic ignition control module/units. Self-generating power. Detects head of small ferrous metal (steel) screw or bolt fastened to rotating disc or flywheel to generate power in magnetic pickup coil. Install screw head extended minimum 3/16" higher than or above the surface of the [cast iron or steel] flywheel to prevent an out of time spark occurrence by the flywheel itself. Wide operating temperature range. epoxy-encapsulated, mechanically rugged. Impervious to dirt, oil and water. No maintenance required. Durable metal shielded threads with two jam nuts. Please specify size when ordering. Can be used with a steel bracket without interference of magnetism. By the way - The magnetic pickup coils below work exactly the same. There is absolutely no difference in performance. Set the air gap/clearance from the detectable target (screw, pin or small raised area on the rotating disc) at .010"-.020" with a brass, plastic, business card, poster board or anything non-magnetic feeler gauge. Click/tap here for wiring diagrams.


Round 3-Wire Inductive Proximity Sensors listed below for crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger ignition systems or other types of electronic systems. Recommended for use with the GM HEI, Chrysler or Ford electronic ignition control module/units. Wide operating temperature range. epoxy-encapsulated, mechanically rugged. Impervious to dirt, oil and water. No maintenance required. Sensors are capable of powering crank-trigger or flywheel-trigger ignition and digital tachometer at the same time. Durable metal shielded threads with two stainless steel thin jam nuts and three, 10 foot long wire leads. Dimensions of each item below: 15/32" (12mm) diameter x 1-3/8" thread length. Some proximity sensors have an LED (Light Emitting Diode) on the rear of unit. If the proximity sensor is wired incorrectly, the LED will stay on and go off when activated. PNP = Positive/Neutral/Positive. NPN = Neutral/Positive/Neutral. Positive is when connection is made. Neutral is when connection is not made. NOTE: Set air gap/clearance at .010" - .188". Direct metal contact with either sensor will damage them. And if the gap is wider than specified, the engine could misfire at higher RPM. To prevent the possibility of an out of time spark, the detectable target needs to be a minimum of 3/16" higher than or above the circumference surface of a steel or cast iron rotating disc or flywheel. Click/tap here for wiring diagrams. [Return to previous section]


Detectable Steel Target Screw w/Magnet and Protective Rubber Washer for Small Engines with A-1 Miller's Custom Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition System with the PerTronix Ignitor Hall Effect Module/Sensor. Head of screw becomes magnetized. Fasten on rotating disc, edge of flywheel or backside of flywheel (in the case of an Onan twin cylinder engine) when using a 3-wire hall effect proximity sensor or PerTronix Ignitor hall effect module/sensor to trigger the spark. 8-32 UNC x 1/2" length hardened steel Phillips head screw. Click/tap here to learn how to professionally cut new threads. Weighs about 1/10 oz. / 2 grams. NOTE: The rubber washer prevents the delicate magnet from possibly breaking when lightly fastened against the uneven rough casting of the flywheel. IMPORTANT: To prevent from possibly loosening, secure screw in flywheel or rotating disc with high strength liquid threadlocker (Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent). Tighten screw just when the rubber begin to bulge, and allow the Loctite to dry and harden overnight. The PerTronix Ignitor hall effect module/sensor is activated by the South pole of the magnet, so do not remove the magnet from the screw! A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller because nobody else advertise this type of product. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.)


Detectable Steel Target Screw w/Magnet and Protective Rubber Washer for Tecumseh engine models VH80, VH100, HH80, HH100, HH120, OH120, OH140, OH150, OH160 and OH180 with a gear starter that have a failed OEM Solid State Ignition Module or Other Make and Model of Small Engine with A-1 Miller's Custom Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition System with the DynaTek Dyna S or PerTronix Ignitor Hall Effect Module/Sensor. Head of screw becomes magnetized. To use this part on a Tecumseh engine, remove both firing pins from the flywheel, and install this part in place of the short pin (20º BTDC position). Fasten on rotating disc, edge of flywheel or backside of flywheel (in the case of an Onan twin cylinder engine) when using a 3-wire hall effect proximity sensor or PerTronix Ignitor hall effect module/sensor to trigger the spark. 12-24 UNC x 3/4" length hardened steel Phillips head screw. Click/tap here to learn how to professionally cut new threads. Weighs about 1/10 oz. / 2 grams. NOTE: The rubber washer prevents the delicate magnet from possibly breaking when lightly fastened against the uneven rough casting of the flywheel. IMPORTANT: To prevent from possibly loosening, secure screw in flywheel or rotating disc with high strength liquid threadlocker (Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent). Tighten screw just when the rubber begin to bulge, and allow the Loctite to dry and harden overnight. The PerTronix Ignitor hall effect module/sensor is activated by the South pole of the magnet, so do not remove the magnet from the screw! A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller because nobody else advertise this type of product. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.)


High Quality GM 4-Pin HEI Ignition Control Module w/packet of thermal paste (to dissipate normal operating heat). Use with a high-output hall effect or inductive proximity sensor. Virtually any ignition coil regardless of the internal primary resistor can be used. Best to be used with a metal core conductor coil-to-spark plug wire and copper core/non-resistor spark plug gapped at .030" or .035" (depending on size of coil) for best performance. After thorough research, this particular HEI module that I offer is the only one that will work correctly with the high-output cube-shape proximity sensor to maintain the ignition timing and produce a very strong spark, helping the engine to start quickly, idle smoothly and rev up at open governed RPM. When mounting the HEI module, always fasten it with thermal paste on a clean, flat aluminum plate with plenty of cool, circulating air to dissipate the heat and cool the unit while in operation. All GM 4-pin HEI modules that I offer for sale have been tested personally by Brian Miller on my Kohler test engine to insure proper operation. Requires one (1) 3/16"/.187"/2.8mm and three (3) #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors. Actual weight of each module: 1.1 oz. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 278903. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Please let me know if you're interested in purchasing this item and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options.

High Quality High-Output/Performance GM 4-Pin HEI Ignition Control Module w/packet of thermal paste (to dissipate normal operating heat). This particular module connected to a magnetic pickup coil (below Ê) works excellent with a stock ignition coil that have a maximum 1.0 ohm internal primary resistor, metal core conductor coil-to-spark plug wire and copper core/non-resistor spark plug gapped at .025, which produce a strong spark, helping the engine to rev up at open speed. When mounting the HEI module, fasten it with thermal paste on a clean, flat aluminum plate with plenty of cool, circulating air to dissipate the heat and cool the unit while in operation. Requires one (1) 3/16"/.187"/2.8mm and three (3) #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors. Actual weight of each module: 1.1 oz. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 278903. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (Limited supply.) Please let me know if you're interested in purchasing this item and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options.


3/8" Magnetic Pickup Coil w/Adapter Bracket and Mounting Screws to Convert from Breakerless Ignition or Points and Condenser Ignition, and Upgrade to Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition. Fits Kohler K-series K241, K301, K321, K341 and K361 engines with the 9" ring gear flywheel w/projection (hump) or large bolt head on flywheel or 3/4" wide area (to install trigger screw with a minimum 1/4" length aluminum spacer) and large bearing plate with the two bosses for mounting this item, as shown in the photo above. Installs in place of Breakerless Ignition Trigger Module. If threads are not already present, new 10-24 UNC threads will need to be drilled and tapped in the two raised bosses in the bearing plate to mount the bracket for the sensor's bracket. Click/tap here to learn how to professionally cut new threads. For a strong spark, use with a 1.0 Ohm (6 volt) ignition coil, metal core spark plug wire and GM HEI high performance module (listed above), or Ford or Chrysler module (listed below). Set spark plug gap at .025" for a stronger spark. NOTE: Set air gap/clearance from projection (hump) or large bolt head on flywheel at .010"-.060" with a brass, plastic, business card, poster board or anything non-magnetic feeler gauge. Ignition timing will be fixed at 20º BTDC. Click/tap here for wiring diagrams. A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.) $90.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Please let me know if you're interested in purchasing this item and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options.


Now the ordinary/stock GM 4-pin HEI electronic ignition control module lives up to its name, High Energy Ignition! When used on a small engine, in order for an ordinary/stock GM 4-pin HEI module help the engine rev up at open RPM, it must be used with the high output cube-shape 3-wire inductive proximity sensor, and can be used with virtually any ignition coil, regardless of the ohm resistance or voltage output. A metal core conductor coil-to-spark plug wire and copper core/non-resistor spark plug should be used to guarantee a stronger spark. Use an ohm meter to test for the resistance in a spark plug wire. Set spark plug gap at .035". Sensor is capable of powering the GM 4-pin HEI crank-trigger ignition control module and a digital tachometer at the same time. This concept revolutionizes the use of this small, compact and versatile module! This is a thoroughly tested, researched and proven reliable ignition system invented by Brian Miller for ordinary lawn and garden engines and competition pulling engines. And when mounting the HEI module, always fasten it with thermal paste (to dissipate normal operating heat) on a clean, flat aluminum plate with plenty of cool, circulating air to dissipate the heat while in operation. Click/tap here for wiring diagrams. IMPORTANT - The wire that comes from the stator under the flywheel for Kohler Trigger Module or Tecumseh Solid State Electronic Ignition Module generates about 250 volts (serious) while the engine is running at full governed speed. Do not touch this wire (terminal) with one bare hand and the engine itself with your other hand while the engine is running! It is not needed for any of A-1 Miller's crank-trigger ignition systems. So snip off this wire or tape up the terminal to prevent a short circuit or electrocution. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]


New High Quality Chrysler / Dodge / Plymouth (MOPAR) Electronic Ignition Control Module/Unit for a custom crank- or flywheel-trigger electronic ignition to use with virtually any small gas engine, automotive, and virtually any gas engine. Requires 12 volts DC negative ground and a minimum 1.2 ohm ballast resistor to prevent burning up this module. Click/tap here to learn how to check the Ohm resistance in a ballast resistor. This module can be used with the magnetic pickup coil or proximity sensor and virtually any ignition coil, regardless of the ohm resistance or voltage output, for a very strong spark (even with a stock coil), which will produce a stronger spark to help the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly, rev up at open RPM with no hesitation or misfire and produce more power. A metal core conductor spark plug wire and copper core/non-resistor spark plug should be used with virtually any ignition system to guarantee a strong spark and from burning up the coil. Click/tap here to learn how to check the Ohm resistance in a spark plug wire. Actual weight of module: 14 oz. Click/tap here for wiring diagrams. $20.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

New 1.6 Ohm Ballast Resistor for use with Chrysler module (listed above) to prevent burning up unit. $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


New High Quality Ford / Mercury / Lincoln Electronic Ignition Control Module/Unit for a custom crank- or flywheel-trigger electronic ignition to use with virtually any small gas engine, automotive, and virtually any gas engine. Requires 12 volts DC negative ground and no ballast resistor. This module can be used with the magnetic pickup coil or proximity sensor and virtually any ignition coil, regardless of the ohm resistance or voltage output for a very strong spark, and will produce a stronger spark to help the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly, rev up at open RPM with no hesitation or misfire and produce more power. A metal core conductor spark plug wire and copper core/non-resistor spark plug should be used with virtually any ignition system to guarantee a strong spark and from burning up the coil. Click/tap here to learn how to check the Ohm resistance in a spark plug wire. Actual weight of module: 1 lb. 7 oz. Click/tap here for wiring diagrams.


High Quality Inductive Wireless Handheld Small Engine Tachometer. A tachometer is required in setting the correct RPM (normally 3,200 or 3,600 maximum for small engines) of an engine to prevent over-revving and possible damage to the engine or dangerous flywheel explosion. For gas/spark ignite engines only. Works with magneto and battery-powered ignition systems. Very accurate. This handheld analog tachometer works great for checking/setting the RPM on various small engines in the shop, and/or for checking/setting the RPM [tech] on stock governed competition pulling engines. Hold sensor (antenna) close to coil-to-spark plug wire for reading. Reads up to 5,000 RPM on the low scale, and 15,000 RPM on the high scale. Operates with a self-contained replaceable 9 volt battery. Has built-in battery voltage check. $85.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Please let me know if you're interested in purchasing this item and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options.


Inductive Small Engine Tachometer/Hour Meter with Replaceable Battery. A tachometer is required for monitoring and/or setting the maximum speed of a small engine, which is normally 3,200 or 3,600 RPM, to prevent over-revving and possible damage to the engine or dangerous flywheel explosion. Very accurate. Can be hand-held to temporarily set engine RPM or can be surface-mounted and secured with two screws to monitor engine RPM at all times. Large 3/8 inch LCD display. Works with all spark ignition engines by selecting engine type by programming S1 and S2 buttons. Works with magneto and battery-powered ignition systems. If tachometer does not turn on automatically as soon as engine starts, press and hold the two buttons at the same time. Instructions included. Reads up to 99,999 RPM. Hour meter reads up to 9999:59 hours/minutes. Programmable maintenance hour setting with service icon, a service reminder when to change oil or other maintenance. Can be manually reset to Zero hours. Easy installation: Single wire wraps around spark plug wire and secured with two supplied nylon zip-ties. No wire terminal connections required. Weatherproof construction. Requires CR2450 battery. Dimensions: 2" wide x 1-3/4" depth x 3/4" height. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Please let me know if you're interested in purchasing this item and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options.


High Quality Digital Tachometer/Proximity Sensor Kits. A tachometer is required in setting the correct engine RPM (normally 3,200 or 3,600 maximum, depending on type of carburetor) to prevent from over-revving and possible internal damage or dangerous flywheel explosion. Choice of a RED or BLUE numeric display. Will work with most small engines or multi-cylinder automotive engines, gas or diesel. The great thing about this type of tachometer is that it needs no setup or programming. It displays accurate RPM as soon as the engine cranks over to start. Displays up to 9,999 RPM. Very accurate. Tachometer returns to zero [0000] when engine is shut down. Can be used for lawn & garden equipment or competition pulling engines. Designed to be permanently mounted to monitor engine RPM at all times. Tachometer can be in-dash or panel-mounted. This precision digital tachometer operates with external power and on the same principle as my flywheel- or crank-trigger ignition systems with a proximity sensor to detect the target, which can be a small ferrous steel screw or pin, or magnet in a rotating disc on the crankshaft or on/in flywheel. Operates totally independent of the ignition system, or can be used with crank trigger ignition with the same proximity sensor. Sensor is capable of powering this digital tachometer and crank-trigger ignition control module at the same time, with the exception of using the Dynatek Dyna S or PerTronix Ignitor modules. This tachometer must be wired separately or wiring can be incorporated with my crank-trigger ignition system that use a proximity sensor. A sturdy steel or aluminum bracket will need to be fabricated by customer to mount the sensor in close proximity of the detector/trigger target. Set air gap/clearance at .010"-.188". Tachometer works with 8-24 volts DC, proximity sensor works with 6-36 volts DC. Dimensions for mounting hole for tachometer: 3" wide x 1-17/32" wide. Tachometer measures 1" in depth. Dimensions of proximity sensor: 15/32" diameter x 1-3/8" thread length. Wiring Instructions: #1 wire on tachometer connects to brown wire on proximity sensor and ignition switch (12 volt power), #2 wire on tachometer connects to blue wire on proximity sensor and engine/chassis ground (which connects to the negative (–) battery post), and #5 wire on tachometer connects to black wire on (either) proximity sensor. Wires #3 and #4 connects to nothing. Wiring is the same for the hall effect and inductive proximity sensors. Some proximity sensors have an LED (Light Emitting Diode) on the rear of unit. If the proximity sensor is wired incorrectly, the LED will illuminate within the target. Click/tap here for YouTube videos to see how well this tachometer works. Please let me know if you're interested in purchasing either of the below and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options.


Click Here for Detailed Illustrated Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back and Self-Propelled Garden Tractor Pulling Sled (Available Soon)


To place an order and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support, please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak slowly and clearly). Call in your order or email us a list parts you need. Payment Options. Please call Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone, except holidays. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian on the phone, please be patient and understanding because I stutter.) E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.

A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone, with an appointment on weekends, except holidays. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally purchase parts, or drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine parts, etc., for repairing and/or rebuilding. Or visit our new shop at 12091 N. Rt. B, Hallsville, MO 65255 to drop off your entire engine, transmission, transaxle, entire garden tractor, small motorized vehicle, etc. Please call, text or email me before coming so I'll be at my shop waiting for your arrival. When you visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with the owner for the best customer service. Directions to our (old) shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. "The road to a [trusted] friend's house (or shop) is never long." Don't sacrifice quality workmanship for distance. [Return To Previous Paragraph, Section or Website]

By the way - As business is booming, we're going to relocate our business soon at 12091 N. Rt. B, Hallsville, MO 65255 with a bigger, better, fully insulated, heated and air-conditioned building/shop (shouse) so we can provide many more high quality parts and professional services, and hire more reliable and knowledgeable help to have our customer's parts orders fulfilled sooner, parts repairs and engine rebuilds performed promptly without delay. We will also offer custom welding fabrication jobs and other custom services. We will also provide pick up and delivery service and perform professional repairs for various small engines and lawn & garden equipment! Photos during construction of our new building/shop are posted here! 12091 N. Rt. B, Hallsville, MO 65255 - Google Maps

Payment Options, and We Ship to Canada and Worldwide
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S. territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground or equivalent services. We try to keep our shipping cost to customers within reason. Therefore, we don't ship our products in a fancy-looking package with our company name and/or logo on it because most customers will just toss it in the trash after they remove the contents. And being there is no USPS tracking number outside the US, all I can do is make sure I write your address correctly on the customs form and on your package.

My websites are not set up to process orders and accept payments. Therefore, for payment options, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total amount for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge), Western Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram Money Transfers. If paying with a credit/debit card, please call me at either number above. To make a payment to me through PayPal, please click this link: https://www.paypal.me/PullingTractor. Or to make a payment to me (pullingtractor@aol.com) in the US through the Venmo. Or use Cash App or Zelle to make a payment to me (pullingtractor@aol.com). And be sure to mention in PayPal, Venmo or Cash App a description of what the payment is for with your full name, postal address, phone number and email address. If sending a money order or cashier's check, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete mailing address, phone number, email address and a description of what the payment is for. I'll make a note of your order when I have all your information, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send everything on your list to you as soon as I have the parts in stock after I receive your payment.



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