As of 2022, A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises is still in business and offering all parts and services listed
in this website.
A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises Catalog of Conventional (Points and
Condenser) Ignition Parts and Electronic Ignition Conversion Kits
Prices are subject to change without notice. FYI - All aftermarket parts
that is offered in this website are of very high quality and come with an
unconditional guarantee. As a matter of fact, the aftermarket parts are just
as good or better quality than most OEM Kohler parts.
Conventional Self-Energizing
Magneto, Solid State and Battery-Powered Ignition Parts (Points, Condensers,
Coils, Switches, etc.) |
Replace Troublesome Points and Condenser
in a Magneto Ignition System with a Reliable and Maintenance-Free Universal
Solid State Electronic Ignition Module |
A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Reliable
and Maintenance-Free Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition Conversion Kits
for Virtually Any Older General-Use Small Engine or Competition Pulling Small
Engine |
A-1 Miller's
Custom-Made Reliable and Maintenance-Free Flywheel-Triggered Electronic Ignition
Conversion Kit for Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301
and K321 with a Small Flywheel and Starter/Generator |
A-1 Miller's
Custom-Made Reliable and Maintenance-Free Electronic Ignition or Points/Condenser
Conversion/Replacement Kit for Kohler Engines with a Failed Breakerless
Ignition System |
A-1 Miller's Custom-Made
Reliable and Maintenance-Free Flywheel-Triggered Electronic Ignition Conversion
Kits for Kohler engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series
II (Updated 12/1/21) |
COMING SOON! A-1
Miller's Custom-Made Flywheel-Triggered Reliable and Maintenance-Free Electronic
Ignition Conversion Kit for Kohler engine models K482, K532 and
K582 |
A-1 Miller's Custom-Made
Reliable and Maintenance-Free Replacement Electronic Ignition Kit for Tecumseh
engine models VH80, VH100, HH80, HH100, HH120, OH120, OH140, OH150, OH160
and OH180 with a failed OEM Solid State Ignition (SSI) Module |
A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Reliable
and Maintenance-Free Crank-Trigger Electronic Ignition Conversion Kits for
Virtually Any Older General-Use Small Engine or Competition Pulling Small
Engine |
FYI - Being nobody have ever brought a
single- or two-cylinder Onan or Wisconsin engine to my shop for repairs,
I have no experience with working on them. Apparently, these engines must
be rare in my area (mid-Missouri). Otherwise, I would offer custom-made
electronic ignition conversion kits for these engines, too. - Brian
Miller |
Conventional (Points and Condenser)
Ignition Parts -
Ignition
Points for Kohler, Tecumseh and Clinton engines. Fits Kohler engine models
K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361,
KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series II,
K482, K532 and K582 with magneto or battery ignition (use with mounting bracket).
Also fits Tecumseh cast iron block engine models HH80, HH100, HH120 with
magneto or battery ignition (use without mounting bracket); and Clinton engine
models 414, 418, 420, 422 (use without mounting bracket). Also, use this
part when converting from Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered
points/condenser ignition. NOTE: Virtually any magneto point ignition
system can be converted to a more reliable solid state ignition with the
universal electronic transistorized ignition
module that I offer, or if possible, upgrade/convert the engine with
my reliable custom-made battery-powered
flywheel-trigger electronic ignition
for a better running engine.
-
High quality aftermarket points without mounting bracket. Replaces
Tecumseh part #'s 32011, 32011A; and Kohler # 47 150 03-S (reuse existing
bracket). $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
High quality aftermarket points with mounting bracket. Replaces Kohler
part # 47 150 03-S; and Tecumseh part #'s 32011, 32011A (use without bracket).
$10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler points with mounting bracket, part # 47 150 03-S. $16.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Include Hex Socket (Allen) Head Cap Screw and split lock washer (below
Ê) in points w/bracket, add $1.00.
 Phillips and Socket (Allen) Head screws with split lock
washers to mount ignition points and points cover on Kohler engines.
These type of screws make for easier fastening of points and points cover
to engine block in hard-to-get places than the OEM slotted head screws on
garden tractors with a
transverse engine, such as older Bolens, belt-drive John
Deere, Sears Suburban, Wheel Horse, etc. Dimensions: 10-24 UNC x 3/8" thread
length. Each screw replaces Kohler part # X-131-1-S. An ingenious and
innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products
of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and
intelligence.)
-
Phillips head screws w/split lock washers. $1.00 per pair, plus shipping
& handling.
-
Socket (Allen) Head cap screws w/split lock washers. $2.00 per pair,
plus shipping & handling.
 Hex Socket (Allen) Head Cap Screw w/split lock washer.
Fits Ignition Points on single cylinder Kohler and cast iron block Tecumseh
engines. Replaces Phillips or OEM slotted head adjustment screw in points.
This stainless steel Allen head screw makes it much easier to precisely set
the point gap and/or ignition timing with a 9/64" hex (Allen) L-wrench than
the OEM slotted or Phillips screw with a straight or Phillips screwdriver
so the points will not slip out of adjustment in garden tractors with a
longitudinal engine, such as Cub Cadet, Economy Power King,
Ford, hydrostatic-drive John Deere, MTD Farm King Model 960, Pennsylvania
Panzer, Meteor, Copar, etc. No need to use this for garden tractors with
a
transverse engine, such as older Bolens, belt-drive John
Deere, Massey Ferguson, Sears Suburban, Wheel Horse, etc. NOTE: The threads
for the adjustment screw in aftermarket points may need to be rethreaded
with a 8-32 UNF [preferably]
TAPER hand tap.
And due to risk of stripping threads in the thin metal points bracket, do
not over-tighten this adjustment screw! An ingenious and innovative
concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of
this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and
intelligence.)
-
8-32 UNF Hex Socket (Allen) Head Cap Screw w/split lock washer. $2.00
for two, plus shipping & handling.
-
9/64" Hex (Allen) L-Wrench for Allen screw above. Measures 7/8" wide x 2-1/2"
length. Made of high strength black alloy steel. $3.00 each, plus
shipping & handling.
High Quality Adjustable Chevy
(GM) Ignition Points with Stiff Spring for Quick Reaction at High Engine
RPM. Use on Kohler K-series competition pulling engines. $15.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
Chevy Points Bracket and Cover w/all mounting hardware (screws). Use
on Kohler K-series competition pulling engines. Professionally CNC machined
of thick aluminum to minimize timing fluctuations. $40.00, plus shipping
& handling.
TIP: When installing small Phillips- or slotted-head screws, to prevent
them from falling out of the screwdriver tip and into a hard to reach place,
for ordinary steel screws, temporarily magnetize the screwdriver by rubbing
a magnet several times along the length of the shank, or for stainless steel
screws, apply a dab of automotive grease in the head of the screw. |
Ignition Points Pushrods. Each fits Kohler K-series
engine models K141, K160/K161 and K181. NOTE: Used pushrod to be no less
than .184" in diameter and 1.265" in length. Measure yours accurately with
a
dial or
digital caliper to determine if it needs replacing.
Or use this part to convert from a failed Breakerless Ignition to the more
reliable battery-powered points and condenser ignition system.
-
Stainless Steel. A-1 Miller's
high quality aftermarket part. Replaces aluminum Kohler part # 41 411 01-S.
$10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Aluminum. OEM Kohler part # 41 411 01-S. $22.25 each, plus shipping
& handling.
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Stainless Steel Flared-End Points Pushrod. Flared-end makes
contact with unworn sides of points lobe. Install this A-1 Miller's custom-made
points pushrod when the points lobe on models K141, K160/K161 or K181 camshaft
is severely worn. This special-made pushrod allows maximum opening of points
so ignition timing can be set at factory specifications or beyond. Can also
be used with an unworn points lobe for longer wear. NOTE: Entire engine
MUST be completely disassembled to install this part. The alternative
to using this part is to convert the engine to A-1 Miller's custom-made
flywheel-trigger electronic ignition.
Replaces Kohler part # 41 411 01-S. $15.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. An ingenious and innovative invention by Brian Miller. Please
accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate
them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.)
Ignition Points Pushrods. Each fits Kohler K-series engine models
K90/K91, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, K482, K532 and K582. NOTE: Used
pushrod to be no less than .184" in diameter and 1.500" in length. Measure
yours accurately with a
dial or
digital caliper to determine if it needs replacing.
Or use this part to convert from a failed Breakerless Ignition to the more
reliable battery-powered points and condenser ignition system.
-
Stainless Steel. A-1 Miller's
high quality aftermarket part. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 46 411
01-S. $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Aluminum. (Listed for K90-K361, but will also fit K482, K532 and K582 engines.)
OEM Kohler part # 47 411 04-S. $17.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Aluminum. (Listed for K482, K532 and K582, but will also fit K90-K361 engines.)
OEM Kohler part # X-489-8-S. $31.70 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Stainless Steel Flared-End Points Pushrod. Flared-end makes
contact with unworn sides of points lobe. Install this A-1 Miller's custom-made
part when the points lobe on models K241-K361 camshaft or the breaker cam
(points lobe) on K482, K532 or K582 governor assembly is severely worn. This
special-made pushrod allows for maximum opening of points so ignition timing
can be set at factory specifications or beyond. Can also be used with an
unworn points lobe for longer wear. NOTE: Entire engine or governor assembly
MUST be completely disassembled to install this part. But the alternative
to using this part is to convert the engine to A-1 Miller's custom-made
flywheel- or
crank-trigger electronic ignition. Replaces
Kohler part #'s 41 411 04-S, 46 411 01-S, 47 411 04-S and X-489-8-S.
$15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. An ingenious and innovative
invention by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of
this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and
intelligence.) NOTE: Virtually
any magneto ignition system can be converted to the universal
electronic transistorized ignition module,
or if possible, upgrade/convert the engine with my custom-made battery-powered
flywheel-trigger electronic ignition
for a better running engine.
|
 3/16" I.D. Neoprene Rubber O-Ring. Installs on points pushrod
close to engine block, allowing any seepage of crankcase oil to drip down,
staying off points contacts. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160,
K181, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, K482, K532 and K582. But if the ignition
points pushrod hole is excessively worn, this will effect the ignition timing
as well, and the block will need to be machined for installation of a bronze
sleeve bushing, or the hole can be plugged, and solid state or a custom-made
flywheel- or
crank-trigger electronic ignition system
can be installed. (The translucent silicone rubber diaphragm seal (part
# 220074-S) is no longer available from Kohler.)
[Return to previous paragraph, section
or website]
-
.50¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Oil-Embedded
Bronze Sleeve Bushing to Repair Worn 3/16" Ignition Points Pushrod Hole in
Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582. To install, the points pushrod
hole will need to be precision-machined (enlarged) exactly to .250" (1/4")
for a press-fit installation. Dimensions: 3/16" I.D. x 1/4" O.D. x 5/8" length.
-
$4.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Ignition
Points Cover Gaskets. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161,
K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17
Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582. Protects
points contacts from dust, dirt and water contamination. Also, use this part
when converting from Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser
ignition.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 52 041 11-S. $2.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 52 041 11-S. $2.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Grommet
for Ignition Points Cover/Wire. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141,
K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series
II, KT19 and KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582. Prevents dust and dirt
from contaminating points contacts, and protects points wire from rubbing/chafing
against points cover or use this part when converting from Breakerless Ignition
to battery-powered points/condenser ignition. FYI:
RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant will serve the same
purpose.
-
OEM Kohler part # 220297-S. $4.95 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Points
Cover. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, K241,
K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19
(first design) KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582. Protects points contacts
from dust, dirt and water contamination. Also, use this part when converting
from Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition. Made
of 16 gauge stamped steel. Points cover for Kohler engines with push-button
kill switch for magneto ignition is no longer available.
-
Used and in excellent condition. $6.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
(When available.)
-
New. OEM Kohler part # 232535-S. $13.25 each, plus shipping &
handling.
|
"Assemble It
Yourself" Points-to-Ignition Coil Wire Kit. Replace OEM wire with
frayed/cracked insulation and/or broken connector(s) to prevent a short circuit
and/or engine misfire. Fits Kohler engines with battery-powered ignition,
models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341,
K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series
II, K482, K532 and K582. Includes 22" length (cut to desired length) x #16
gauge (AWG) insulated stranded copper wire and two uninstalled crimp connectors.
Requires use of
electrical connector crimping pliers. High quality A-1
Miller's parts. Replaces Kohler part # A-230371-S.
-
Without wire/points cover grommet. (Reuse your grommet if in good condition.)
$2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
With new wire/points cover grommet. $7.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
"Ready to Install"
Points-to-Ignition Coil Wire Kits. Replace OEM wire with frayed/cracked
insulation and/or broken connector(s) to prevent a short circuit and/or engine
misfire. Fits Kohler engines with battery-powered ignition, models K90/K91,
K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17 (first
design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and
K582. Includes 16" or 22" length x #16 gauge (AWG) insulated stranded copper
wire, grommet and two installed crimp connectors.
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16" length. Use on single cylinder Kohler engines with coil located next
to carburetor or use this when converting from Breakerless Ignition to
battery-powered points/condenser ignition.
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High quality A-1 Miller's part. Replaces Kohler part # A-231839-S.
$9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
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OEM Kohler part # A-231839-S. $19.70 each, plus shipping & handling.
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22" length. Use on single cylinder Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) engines with coil
located above starter motor.
-
High quality A-1 Miller's part. Replaces Kohler part # 47 125 01-S.
$9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
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OEM Kohler part # 47 125 01-S. $24.25 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Points Pushrod
Hole Block-Off Plate for Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181,
K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series
II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582. Use this part
to cover points pushrod hole when converting engine to electronic ignition.
Apply RTV silicone sealant to prevent oil leak and use OEM ignition points
mounting screws to secure plate in place.
-
A-1 Miller's part. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
NOTE: If an engine idles well, but runs erratically when
revved up, like it hits and misses, pops and backfires, then chances are,
it needs a new condenser/capacitor. And always install a condenser/capacitor
with the wire facing downward so rain water and/or when washing off engine,
water will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it. With water inside
the condenser, this will also allow it to idle well, but cause it to run
erratically when revved up.
Click/tap here to hear what an
engine with a faulty condenser/capacitor sounds like. And virtually
any magneto point ignition system can be converted to a more reliable solid
state ignition with the universal electronic
transistorized ignition module that I offer, or if possible, upgrade/convert
the engine with my reliable custom-made battery-powered
flywheel-trigger electronic ignition
for a better running engine.
Low
Capacity Ignition
Condenser/Capacitor.
Designed for magneto ignition coils or compact 12 volt ignition coils only.
Fits certain Kohler engine models K91 and K241, and various other makes and
models of small engines with a self-energizing magneto armature ignition
coil. 5mm mounting hole. Can also be used with a compact
epoxy-encapsulated 12 volt ignition coil in a custom-made battery-powered
ignition system. Dimensions: .670" diameter x 1.250" body length x 11/32"
mounting hole. NOTE: Virtually any magneto ignition system can be converted
to the universal electronic transistorized ignition
module, or if possible, upgrade/convert the engine with my custom-made
battery-powered flywheel-trigger electronic
ignition for a better running engine.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 220434-S, and
discontinued Tecumseh part # 32015. $15.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
 Medium Capacity Ignition Condensers/Capacitors. Designed
for magneto coils or full-size 12 volt coils. Has twice the capacity of the
low capacity condenser listed above. Each fits certain Kohler engine models
K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321 and K341. Including Tecumseh cast
iron block engine models HH80, HH100, HH120 with magneto ignition, Onan model
P, and various other makes and models of small engines with a self-energizing
magneto armature ignition coil. Each can also be used with Kohler engine
models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series
II. Or each can be used with a compact epoxy-encapsulated
12 volt ignition coil in a custom-made battery-powered ignition system.
Dimensions: .680" diameter x 1.250" body length x 11/32" mounting hole.
NOTE: Virtually any magneto ignition system can be converted to the universal
electronic transistorized ignition module,
or if possible, upgrade/convert the engine with my custom-made battery-powered
flywheel-trigger electronic ignition
for a better running engine.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 47 147 01-S. $16.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 47 147 01-S. $23.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Condenser/capacitor with two integrated wires. One wire connects to points,
other wire connects to coil. OEM Kohler part # 52 147 01-S. $28.55
each, plus shipping & handling.
Medium Capacity Ignition
Condensers/Capacitors.
Designed for use with full-size OEM-type 12 volt coils. Use on Kohler engine
models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341,
K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series
II, K482, K532, K582, and Tecumseh cast iron block engine models HH80, HH100,
HH120, and various other makes and models of small engines with a 12 volt
ignition system. Dimensions: .680" diameter x 1.250" body length x 3-1/2"
wire length x 1/4" hole in mounting clamp.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 230722-S. $7.00 each,
plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler condenser/capacitor part # 230722-S. $17.45 each, plus
shipping & handling.
High Capacity/Performance
Ignition
Condenser/Capacitor.
Has twice the capacity of the medium capacity condensers listed above.
Designed for use with a 30,000+ volt high-output/performance 12 volt coil,
Bosch blue coil, GM DIS coil, or an automotive-type distributor-driven point
ignition system so engine will rev up to full RPM. Equivalent to ACCEL, Bosch,
Mallory, MSD and most other name brand high performance condensers. Use on
Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331,
K341, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19
Series II, K482, K532, K582, and Tecumseh cast iron block engine models HH80,
HH100, HH120, and various other makes and models of small engines with a
12 volt ignition system. Dimensions: .680" diameter x 1.250" length x 3-1/2"
wire length x 3/16" hole in mounting clamp.
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High Capacity/Performance Ignition Condenser/Capacitor. $10.00 each,
plus shipping & handling.
-
Used and in excellent condition.
OEM Kohler condenser clamp w/9/32"
mounting hole. Allows the high-output/performance condenser (listed above)
be mounted next to the coil with one of the coil's mounting bolts. Otherwise,
it will need to be fastened next to the points. Irrelevant Kohler part number.
$2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
High Quality
Copper Core/Non-Resistor Spark Plugs. Designed for Kohler engine models
K90/K91, smaller flathead Briggs & Stratton, smaller flathead Tecumseh
engines, most chainsaws and most 2-cycle lawn mower engines. Copper core
spark plugs allows the ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. For
best engine performance and longevity of the coil, set gap at .025" with
a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system, .035"
with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with a
high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 3/8" thread
reach, flat washer seat. Replaces Briggs and Stratton part # 802592S.
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Autolite® 455. Replaces Kohler part # 41 132 06-S. $2.50 each,
plus shipping & handling. (Limited quantity.)
-
Champion® 843 (CJ8). Replaces Kohler part # 41 132 06-S. $3.20
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Champion® 861 (J19LM). Replaces Kohler part # 41 132 06-S. $3.20
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 41 132 06-S. $7.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Copper Core/Non-Resistor
Spark Plugs. Designed for Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181,
M8, and cast iron block Tecumseh engine models VH80, VH100, HH80, HH100,
HH120, OH140, OH150, OH160 and OH180. Copper core spark plugs allows the
ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. For best engine performance
and longevity of the coil, set gap at .025" with a self-energizing magneto
or solid state electronic ignition system, .035" with a full size battery-powered
ignition coil, and .060" with a high-output/performance battery-powered coil.
14mm threads x 3/8" thread reach, flat washer seat.
-
Autolite® 295 Non-Resistor. Replaces Kohler part # 41 132 02-S.
$2.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Champion® 841 (J8C) Copper Plus. Replaces Kohler part # 41 132 02-S.
$3.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 41 132 02-S. $9.35 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Copper Core/Non-Resistor
Spark Plugs. Designed for Kohler engine models K241, M10, K301, M12,
K330/K331, K321, M14, K341, M16, K361, K482, K532 and K582. Copper core spark
plugs allows the ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. For best
engine performance and longevity of the coil, set gap at .025" with a
self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system, .035"
with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with a
high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 7/16" thread
reach for stock OEM cylinder heads, flat washer seat.
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Autolite® 216 Non-Resistor. Replaces Kohler part # 25 132 10-S.
$2.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Champion® 844 (H10C) Copper Plus. Replaces Kohler part # 25 132 10-S.
$3.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
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AC Delco C45L Copper Core. Replaces Kohler part # 25 132 10-S. $3.50
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 25 132 10-S. $11.10 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Copper
Core/Non-Resistor Spark Plugs for use in machined billet cylinder heads
for competition pulling only. Designed for Kohler engine models K241,
M10, K301, M12, K330/K331, K321, M14 , K341 and M16. Copper core spark plugs
allows the ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. For best engine
performance and longevity of the coil, set gap at .025" with a self-energizing
magneto or solid state electronic ignition system, .035" with a full size
battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with a high-output/performance
battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 3/4" thread reach, flat washer seat.
Irrelevant Kohler part number.
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Autolite® 4056 Copper; Tapered electrode design. $2.50 each, plus
shipping & handling.
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Champion® 120 (N5C) Copper Plus. $2.50 each, plus shipping &
handling.
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AC Delco 43XL. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Copper
Core/Non-Resistor Spark Plugs. Designed for Kohler opposed twin-cylinder
flathead engine models MV16, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II,
M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Copper core spark plugs allows the ignition coil
to operate cooler and last longer. For best engine performance and longevity
of the coil, set gap at .025" with a self-energizing magneto or solid state
electronic ignition system, .035" with a full size battery-powered ignition
coil, and .060" with a high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm
threads x 15/32" thread reach, tapered seat.
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Autolite® 26 Non-Resistor. Replaces Kohler part # 52 132 02-S.
$2.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Champion® 25 (RV17YC) Copper Plus. Replaces Kohler part # 52 132 02-S.
$3.65 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 52 132 02-S. $9.15 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Copper
Core/Non-Resistor Spark Plugs. Designed for most makes and models of
OHV aluminum block single- and V-twin air-cooled small engines. Copper core
spark plugs allows the ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. For
best engine performance and longevity of the coil, set gap at .025" with
a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system, .035"
with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with a
high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 5/8" thread
reach, flat washer seat.
-
Champion® 71 (RC12YC) Copper Plus. Replaces Kohler part # 12 132 02-S.
$3.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 12 132 02-S. $6.10 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Copper
Core/Non-Resistor Spark Plugs. Designed for most models of Onan opposed
twin-cylinder air-cooled small engines. Copper core spark plugs allows the
ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. For best engine performance
and longevity of the coil, set gap at .025" with a self-energizing magneto
or solid state electronic ignition system, .035" with a full size battery-powered
ignition coil, and .060" with a high-output/performance battery-powered coil.
14mm threads x 11/16" thread reach, flat washer seat.
-
Autolite® 106 Non-Resistor. $2.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
AC Delco R44LTS Copper Core. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Champion® 909 (RS17YX) Copper Plus. $3.20 each, plus shipping
& handling.
|
Spark Plug
Grommet. Fits Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) engine models K181AQS, M8, K241AQS,
K301AQS, K321AQS and K341AQS. Fastens directly on spark plug in air duct
shield (sheet metal) over cylinder head to help maintain cool air over the
cylinder head. Made of neoprene rubber.
-
OEM Kohler part # 47 313 01-S. $5.05 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
 Indexing
Washers for Flat Seat Spark Plugs with 14mm Threads. Position spark plug
in combustion chamber with open/exposed gap facing the center of the piston
in flathead engines for more power and torque when using tractor under extreme
conditions, such as heavy mowing, garden plowing, pushing/blowing snow, or
for competition pulling. To know exactly where the open gap is when the spark
plug is installed, use a permanent ink felt tip marker
(Sharpie,
Magic Marker,
Marks-A-Lot) to place a mark (line) on the porcelain in-line
with the open gap at the tip of the spark plug as shown in the photo to the
right. And on flat seat spark plugs, leave the original
compression washer on the spark plug and add the indexing washer(s) as needed
until the open gap face the piston. Available in the following
thicknesses: .005", .010" and .015". Made of hardened steel.
.75¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
Indexing Washers for Tapered
Seat Spark Plugs with 14mm Threads. Position spark plug in combustion
chamber with open or exposed gap toward the piston in OHV engines for more
power and torque when using tractor under extreme conditions, such as heavy
mowing, garden plowing, pushing/blowing snow, or for competition pulling.
Made of copper. Available in the following thicknesses: .010", .021" and
.032". $1.50 each, plus shipping & handling. |
 Grounding-Type Safety Break-Away / Kill Switch with Pull-Pin.
Use for competition pulling only; mount on rear of tractor. When the
pin pulled, it grounds the ignition coil from producing spark. If using with
a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition systems: Connect
one wire to the chassis ground, and connect the other wire to the
points/condenser wire or to the kill terminal on the solid state electronic
ignition coil/module. If using with a battery-powered ignition system: Connect
one wire to the chassis ground, and connect the other wire to the coil negative
() terminal. NOTE: With battery-powered ignition, as soon as pin
is pulled (engine will die), manually shut off ignition switch right away
to prevent possible damage to the ignition coil and electronic ignition module
if equipped with crank-trigger
ignition. This type of switch does not disable power to the electric
fuel pump on a pulling tractor. The electric
fuel pump must be shut-off manually by the ignition switch or an OFF-ON
toggle/flip switch or [security] key switch.
-
Grounding-Type Safety Break-Away / Kill Switch with Pull-Pin. $14.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Replacement Pull-Pin for Break-Away Switch listed above. Keep an extra on
hand to replace a damaged or "misplaced" pin by a disgruntled competitive
puller. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
  High Quality
Universal Self-Grounding OFF/ON Switches. Designed for use with
Self-Energizing Magneto Ignition, Solid State Ignition, OEM Solid State
Ignition (SSI) for Tecumseh's Cast Iron Block Engines, or with OEM Kohler
Breakerless Ignition. These can be used on virtually any small engine
installed on lawn and garden equipment, garden tillers, go-karts, chainsaws,
log splitters, portable air compressors, portable generators/welders, portable
water pumps, etc. with a magneto or solid state ignition, and a recoil/rope
starter or a push-button switch with an electric starter motor to crank the
engine. Very durable, tough switches.
-
Universal Grounding Lever. Fasten with a cylinder head bolt and hold against
spark plug to kill the engine. Use only with magneto or solid state ignition.
Made of spring-loaded, weather-proof anodized steel. Has two barbs for tall
and short spark plugs to penetrate rubber boot. $2.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
Grounded OFF-ON Toggle/Flip Switch. The terminal makes contact with the body
of switch when the key is in the OFF position. The body of this switch is
grounded through a drilled hole in the sheet metal on the flywheel shroud,
pedestal, dashboard, instrument panel, engine control panel, etc., and the
blade terminal on the switch connects to the kill wire from the points or
ignition coil. Very durable, tough switch. Comes with OFF-ON indicator plate.
Use #250
slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connector on terminal
when connecting ignition wire to switch. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. Replaces
discontinued Kohler part # 223072-S. $3.60 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
Grounded OFF-ON Rotary Key Switch. The terminal makes contact with the body
of switch when the key is in the OFF position. Use for security of equipment.
The body of this switch is grounded through a drilled hole in the sheet metal
on the flywheel shroud, pedestal, dashboard, instrument panel, engine control
panel, etc., and the blade terminal on the switch connects to the kill wire
from the points or ignition coil. The terminal makes contact with the body
of switch when the key is in the OFF position. Very durable, tough switch.
Requires 5/8" mounting hole. $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Non-Grounded OFF-ON Rotary Key Switch. The two terminals makes contact together
when the key is in the OFF position. Use for security of equipment. Body
of switch not grounded to terminals; use in plastic pedestal, dashboard,
instrument panel, engine control panel, etc. Connect one terminal to engine
or chassis, and other terminal to ignition points or ignition coil. Very
durable, tough switch. Requires 5/8" mounting hole. $15.00 each, plus
shipping & handling.
-
Universal Ignition Key. Fits all key switches listed in this website, most
riding mowers and lawn tractors. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
 High Quality Universal OFF/ON Switches for
Battery-Powered Ignition and Electrical Accessories. Very durable, tough
switches. Either can be used for ignition, lights,
electric fuel
pump, electric PTO clutch, etc. When used for ignition, use with
push button starter switch (listed below). Terminals or wires on switches
listed below makes contact when in the ON position. Can be used on virtually
anything that have a battery-powered ignition or electrical system, such
as: garden tractors, go-karts, pulling tractors, mini-rods, hot-rods, farm
tractors, automobiles, etc. Each can be mounted in dashboard, instrument
panel, engine control panel, etc.
-
OFF-ON Toggle/Flip Switch. Maximum 20 amp capacity. Comes with OFF-ON indicator
plate and two 6" wire leads. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. Replaces discontinued
Kohler part # 238011-S. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OFF-ON Pull-Push Switch. Pull out = ON, Push in = OFF. Maximum 5 amp capacity.
Two screw terminal connection. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. Replaces
discontinued Kohler part # 275713. $9.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
OFF-ON Rotary Key Switch. Use for security of equipment. Fits Cub Cadet garden
tractor models 70, 71, 72, 100, Cub Lo Boy and IH Farmall Cub. Requires 15/32"
mounting hole. High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet
part # IH-403562-R3, and IH part #'s 366313R91, 370375R91, 379594R92, 403562R2,
636365R91. $42.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Universal Ignition Key. Fits most key switches listed in this website, most
riding mowers and lawn tractors. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
High
Quality Universal Push Button Switches. Each can be mounted in pedestal,
dashboard, instrument panel, engine control panel, flywheel shroud, etc.
-
Light Duty OFF/ON 15 Amp Capacity Momentary Push Button Switch. BLACK
button; Normally Open; push to connect circuit. Use as starter switch
to crank engine, as a safety switch, temporarily power electrical accessories,
such as light(s), etc., or to power kill switch motor (on pulling sled).
Starter solenoid/relay may be required if electrical load exceeds 15 amps.
Use #250
slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals
when connecting wires to switch. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. 2-1/8" overall
length. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Light Duty OFF/ON 15 Amp Capacity Momentary Push Button Switch.
RED button; Normally Off; push to
disconnect circuit. Use as a safety switch for transmission shifter in
a pulling vehicle to disconnect power to the starting circuit when transmission
is in gear. Use #250
slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals
when connecting wires to switch. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. 2-1/8" overall
length. $16.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Heavy Duty 20 Amp Capacity Momentary Push Button Switch. Normally Open;
push to connect circuit. Comes with two screws to connect between positive
(+) battery post and starter motor. Heavy wire terminals and minimum #8 gauge
(AWG) wire recommended. Starter solenoid/relay may be required if electrical
load exceeds 20 amps. Requires 5/8" mounting hole. $14.00 each, plus
shipping & handling. [Return to
Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]
|
 High Quality Universal 3-Position OFF-IGNITION-START Rotary
Key Switch for use with Self-Energizing Magneto Ignition, Solid State
Ignition, OEM Solid State Ignition (SSI) for Tecumseh's Cast Iron Block Engines,
or with OEM Kohler Breakerless Ignition. Can be used for various makes
and models of riding mowers, lawn & garden tractors, garden tractors
and various small engine equipment with magneto or solid state ignition.
Identification of 5 blade terminals: B = Battery [+]; G = Ground
(terminal is grounded to body of switch); L = Lights (use a separate
OFF-ON switch connected to this terminal to power an electric PTO clutch);
M = Magneto (Ignition); S = Solenoid (small terminal). Key
positions: OFF position makes contact with M+G; IGNITION position makes contact
with B+L; START position makes contact with B+S. Each terminal identified
for correct wiring connections. IMPORTANT: Use with a starter solenoid/relay
to crank the engine to prevent burning out internal contacts in switch. NOTE:
If engine is equipped with an alternator/stator charging system, the center
terminal on the voltage rectifier/regulator connects to the positive (+)
battery post. If using an ammeter/amp gauge, connect the gauge/meter to the
positive (+) battery post, then to the B terminal on the switch. Trace the
wires on your tractor/equipment to see if they match the terminals on this
switch. If they don't match, the plug-in spade connectors/wires can be rearranged
in the plastic connector housing to match the corresponding terminals on
the switch. To do this, use a small flat blade screwdriver to depress the
locking tab/tang so the plug-in connector can be pulled out from the plastic
connector housing. Bend the locking tab/tang up slightly before reinserting
it in the plastic connector so it will be secured in place. Or use #250
slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals
when connecting wires to switch. Requires 5/8" diameter mounting hole.
-
Magneto or Solid State Ignition Rotary Key Switch. A-1 Miller's part # 9158.
$15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Universal Ignition Key. Fits all key switches listed in this website, most
riding mowers and lawn tractors. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
 High Quality Universal 3-Position OFF-IGNITION-START Rotary
Key Switch. Designed for use with Battery-Powered Points/Condenser
Ignition or Battery-Powered Flywheel/Crank-Trigger Aftermarket Replacement
Electronic Ignition. Can be used for various makes and models of garden
tractors, small engine equipment, mini rod pulling tractors and hot rods
with battery-powered ignition or flywheel/crank trigger ignition. Identification
of 5 blade terminals are: I = Ignition; A = Auxiliary (electrical
accessories, such as lights, electric PTO clutch, etc.); R = Rectifier;
B = Battery [+]; S = Solenoid (small terminal). Key positions:
OFF position makes no contact with any of the other terminals; IGNITION position
makes contact with B+I+R+A; START position makes contact with B+I+R+S. Each
terminal identified for correct wiring connections. IMPORTANT: Must be used
with a starter solenoid to crank the engine to prevent burning out internal
contacts in switch. If using an ammeter/amp gauge, connect the gauge/meter
to the positive (+) battery post, then to the B terminal on the switch. Trace
the wires on your tractor/equipment to see if they match the terminals on
this switch. If they don't match, the plug-in spade connectors/wires can
be rearranged in the plastic connector housing to match the corresponding
terminals on the switch. To do this, use a small flat blade screwdriver to
depress the locking tab/tang so the plug-in connector can be pulled out from
the plastic connector housing. Bend the locking tab/tang up slightly before
reinserting it in the plastic connector so it will be secured in place. Or
use #250
slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals
when connecting wires to switch. Requires 9/16" diameter mounting hole.
-
Universal Battery Ignition Rotary Key Switch. A-1 Miller's part # 33393.
$15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Universal Ignition Key. Fits all key switches listed in this website, most
riding mowers and lawn tractors. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Battery Ignition
3-Position OFF-IGNITION-START Rotary Key Switch. Fits IH-built Cub Cadet
garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108,
109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 154, 184, 185
and LO BOY. Universal applications; can also be used for various makes and
models of garden tractors, small engine equipment, mini rod pulling tractors
and hot rods with battery-powered ignition or flywheel/crank trigger ignition.
For universal applications, use with #250
slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors. Identification
of 3 blade terminals are: BAT = positive (+) battery post; IGN
= Positive [+] Terminal on Ignition Coil ; ST = Starter Solenoid.
IMPORTANT: Must be used with a starter solenoid to crank engine to prevent
burning out internal contacts in switch. Unlike key switches listed above,
this switch comes with a serrated key.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-60736-C3.
$35.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-60736-C3. $70.80 each, plus shipping &
handling.
|
Universal Wiring
Harness with Plastic Housing Connector. Fits universal OFF-IGNITION-START
rotary key switches listed above and other rotary key switches with same
terminal configuration. Three terminals will also fit the OEM Cub Cadet garden
tractor ignition key switch. Replace damaged wiring and connector, use as
new wiring harness on a custom-made project, or use this part when converting
from Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition. 18"
length color-coded wires for easy identification. $13.00 each, plus
shipping & handling.
Plastic Housing Electrical
Connector Only. Fits universal OFF-IGNITION-START rotary key switches
listed above and other rotary key switches with same terminal configuration.
Three slots will also fit the OEM Cub Cadet garden tractor ignition key switch.
Replace damaged connector when the brass slide-on spade crimp wire connectors
are in good condition. Requires 1/4" width slide-on brass spade crimp wire
connectors with locking tab/tang below. $6.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
1/4" Width Slide-On Brass
Spade Crimp Wire Connector with Locking Tab/Tang. Fits plastic housing
connectors used on most OFF-IGNITION-START key switches, voltage
rectifier/regulators, head lights, etc. To remove old slide-on brass connector
from plastic housing, use a small flat blade screwdriver to depress locking
tab/tang on connector, and pull connector out of housing. Solder or use
terminal crimping pliers to install on wire. Before installing
the new connector, make sure locking tab/tang is slightly bent outward, and
slide connector into plastic housing in the correct position until it locks/snaps
in place. This part was never available from Kohler. $1.40 each, plus
shipping & handling. |
OFF/ON
Main/Master Disconnect/Cutoff Switch with Removable Key. Use this
100 amp capacity switch to disable all power throughout the equipment to
prevent sabotage an/or an accidental electrical short that could burn up
the wiring system or entire equipment. Useful when equipment is not used
for a period of time to prevent a slow drain on the battery, prevent short
circuits when performing electrical service on equipment, or for a pulling
tractor to prevent accidental starts or to prevent sabotage at the pull sites
by disgruntled pullers. Connect between negative () battery post and
equipment ground. Copper terminals with brass hex nuts for improved continuity.
Comes with protective weather cap and two removable nylon key locks. Mounting
hardware not included. $19.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
[Return to previous paragraph, section
or website] |
Armature
Ignition Coil with Integrated Solid State Electronic Integrated Module.
Fits Kohler Magnum engine model M8. NOTE: Install coil with spark plug
wire facing engine block as shown in photo to the right. Set the air
gap/clearance between the magnet in the flywheel and armature laminations
at .010" with a paper or brass feeler gauge. The .010" gap produces a stronger
magnetic field through the coil to generate more power for a stronger spark,
and so the engine won't misfire. And use a new Autolite or Champion copper
core/non-resistor spark plug of the correct type gapped at .025" for longer
coil life.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 41 584 03-S. $61.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 41 584 03-S. $128.05 each, plus shipping & handling.
Armature Ignition Coil with
Integrated Solid State Electronic Integrated Module. Fits Kohler Magnum
engine models M10, M12, M14 and M16. NOTE: Install coil with spark plug
wire facing engine block as shown in photo to the right. Set the air
gap/clearance between the magnet in the flywheel and armature laminations
at .010" with a paper or brass feeler gauge. The .010" gap produces a stronger
magnetic field through the coil to generate more power for a stronger spark,
and so the engine won't misfire. And use a new Autolite or Champion copper
core/non-resistor spark plug of the correct type gapped at .025" for longer
coil life.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 47 584 03-S. $30.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 47 584 03-S. $128.05 each, plus shipping & handling.
Armature Ignition Coil with
Integrated Solid State Electronic Integrated Module. Fits Kohler Magnum
opposed twin cylinder engine models MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. NOTE:
Install coil with spark plug wire facing engine block as shown in photo to
the right. Set the air gap/clearance between the magnet in the flywheel and
armature laminations at .010" with a paper or brass feeler gauge. The .010"
gap produces a stronger magnetic field through the coil to generate more
power for a stronger spark, and so the engine won't misfire. And use a new
Autolite or Champion copper core/non-resistor spark plugs of the correct
type gapped at .015" each for longer coil life.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 52 584 02-S. $46.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 52 584 02-S. $208.20 each, plus shipping and handing.
|
Armature Ignition
Coil with Integrated Solid State Electronic Integrated Magnetron™ Module.
Fits Briggs and Stratton horizontal and vertical shaft opposed twin cylinder
engines. NOTE: Install coil with spark plug wire facing engine block as
shown in photo to the right. Set the air gap/clearance between the magnet
in the flywheel and armature laminations at .010" with a paper or brass feeler
gauge. The .010" gap produces a stronger magnetic field through the coil
to generate more power for a stronger spark, and so the engine won't misfire.
And use a new Autolite or Champion copper core/non-resistor spark plugs of
the correct type gapped at .015" each for longer coil life.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Briggs and Stratton part #'s 392329, 394891,
394988, 590781. $35.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Briggs and Stratton part #'s 392329, 394891, 394988, 590781.
$45.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
To test for the
continually of an ignition coil (to see if it's in good condition), use a
multimeter set on the Ohm ( ) resistance. Insert
one of the multimeter's probes into the spark plug terminal of the coil,
contacting the metal inside the terminal. Touch the second probe of the meter
to the ignition coil's negative () terminal. (This is the one not connected
to the primary resistor.) Depending on the type of coil (magneto, small size,
standard size or high output/performance), the meter should read 6,000 to
15,000 ohms. If it does not, the coil's secondary winding is
faulty. |
Magneto Armature
Ignition Coil. Fits Kohler engine model K91 with magneto ignition. May
not fit model K90 with magneto ignition. Spark plug wire (not included) inserts
into front/outward curvature of coil. Reuse OEM spark plug wire. For best
engine performance and longevity of the coil, set spark plug gap at .025"
with this coil. NOTE: This coil should produce a stronger spark when used
with the Universal Solid State Electronic Ignition
Module. Or the engine can be
converted to battery-powered
ignition. Dimensions: 1.700" O.D. x 1.080" length x 1/2" x 1/2" square
hole. How
magneto coils generate a spark.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 220435-S.
$45.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
  Magneto Armature
Ignition Coils. Fits certain Kohler K-series engine models K181, K241,
K301, K321, K330/K331 and K341 with points, condenser/capacitor and coil
under flywheel. Common with Kohler engines mounted to a generator or welder.
Also fits most small- and medium-frame aluminum block Tecumseh engines with
points, condenser/capacitor and coil under flywheel. For best engine performance
and longevity of the coil, set spark plug gap at .025" with each coil.
NOTES: These coils should produce a stronger spark when used with the
Universal Solid State Electronic Ignition
Module. Also, each coil listed below can be substituted for the obsolete
OEM Kohler part # 275756 coil by grinding down the laminations on the armature
to .405" x .405" square. Do not grind out inside of coil! To secure coil
on the armature, bend one lamination over end of coil. Or engine could be
converted to the more reliable
battery-powered ignition system. Dimensions of each coil: 1.700"
O.D. x 1.080" length x .405" square hole.
How
magneto coils generate a spark.
-
High Quality Aftermarket Universal Magneto Armature Ignition Coil with integrated
spark plug wire. Spark plug wire protrudes from rear of coil. Replaces Kohler
part #'s 232901-S, 238059 (kit), 47 145 02-S, 47 755 20-S (kit), and Tecumseh
part # 30560A. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
High Quality Aftermarket Magneto Armature Ignition Coil without integrated
spark plug wire. Spark plug terminal protrudes from rear of coil. Reuse OEM
spark plug wire. If the spark plug wire will not pull out of the old coil,
simply cut it off close to the coil, and use Super Glue to secure it in the
new coil. Replaces Kohler part #'s 232901-S, 238059 (kit), 47 145 02-S, 47
755 20-S (kit), and Tecumseh part # 30560A. $35.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
OEM Kohler Magneto Ignition Armature Coil without Retaining Clip. Spark plug
wire NOT included with coil. Reuse OEM spark plug wire. If the spark plug
wire will not pull out of the old coil, simply cut it off close to the coil,
and use Super Glue to secure it in the new coil. Retaining clip (237919-S)
discontinued from Kohler. To secure coil on armature, bend one lamination
over end of coil. OEM Kohler part # 47 145 02-S. $152.40 each, plus
shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler Magneto Ignition Armature Coil with Retaining Clip. Spark plug
wire NOT included with coil. Reuse existing spark plug wire. If the spark
plug wire will not pull out of the old coil, simply cut it off close to the
coil, and use Super Glue to secure it in the new coil. Retaining clip (237919-S)
discontinued from Kohler. To secure coil on armature, bend one lamination
over end of coil. OEM Kohler part # 47 755 20-S. $157.85 each, plus
shipping & handling.
|
Magneto Armature
Ignition Coil. Fits various Kohler engine models K90, K141, K161 and
K181 with coil mounted on U-shaped ignition stator on bearing plate underneath
flywheel with magnet rotor on crankshaft. Also fits various larger cast iron
block Clinton engines with coil/armature mounted on cylinder, above flywheel.
Common with certain generator engines. Spark plug wire not included. For
best engine performance and longevity of the coil, set spark plug gap at
.025" with this coil. NOTE: This coil should produce a stronger spark
when used with the Universal Solid State Electronic
Ignition Module. Or the engine could be
converted to battery-powered
ignition. Dimensions: 1.750" diameter x 1.450" length x .505" square
hole. How
magneto coils generate a spark.
-
New Old Stock. Discontinued Kohler part #'s 22089, 231718-S. $137.00
each, plus shipping & handing. (When available.)
|
Ignition Coils -
IMPORTANT: Most failures of a battery-powered
ignition coils and/or electronic ignition control modules are caused by either
the use of suppression/carbon-core spark plug wire(s), resistor-type spark
plug(s), or overcharging of the electrical system due to a defective voltage
rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery. Therefore, if it's
not already equipped, it's best to install an
ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging
system. Also, any coil will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with
the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running.
To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use
an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect
switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power
the ignition system. Also, the coil could burn up if the charging system
continually overcharge due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or
a defective [automotive] battery.
High
Quality, High Energy,
Compact Epoxy-Encapsulated 12 Volt Armature Ignition Coil
w/3.5 ohm internal primary resistor and integrated metal core spark
plug wire. 15,000 volt output. Draws approximately 3 amps with points or
electronic ignition. Includes mounting hardware. Ideal for a confined engine
compartment with limited space and no place to mount a full size canister
coil, or can be used to convert from an obsolete magneto ignition system
to the more reliable battery ignition system (a
small 12 volt battery w/ignition switch and wiring must
also be used.) Can be used for general yard and garden engines, competition
pulling engines with battery ignition points and low capacity condenser,
or with crank trigger ignition. Coil can withstand high engine vibrations.
To install this coil, drill two 7/32" holes in alignment with holes in coil's
armature through flywheel shroud next to carburetor or above starter gear
and tack-weld the two supplied
nuts (in alignment with drilled holes) or tack-weld head of screws (to serve
as studs) to inside of shroud, and securely fasten coil with the two supplied
spacers, lock washers to nuts or screws. (When fastened to flywheel shroud,
coil will have a nice, distinctive appearance, and like it's factory-installed.)
Comes with separate spark plug boot and terminal. If necessary and for
your application, shorten the spark plug wire (don't cut it off too short!),
and to install terminal, make sure the pointed prong on the terminal penetrates
the insulation of the wire, or strip a short part of the insulation and bend
over the wire to make full connect with the terminal, and use a
spark plug wire crimping tool, then apply automotive grease
on the spark plug wire and inside boot so it will slide easily on the wire
and over the terminal. Use #250
slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors when connecting
wires to coil terminals. For best engine performance and longevity of the
coil, use a copper core/non-resistor spark plug [Autolite or Champion] gapped
at .030". Dimensions - overall length of armature: 3-1/2" x diameter of coil
body: 1-1/4" x widest width of coil body: 1-1/2" x mounting hole spacing:
3-1/8" x length of spark plug wire: 13-1/2".
How
battery-powered ignition coils work. An ingenious and innovative concept
by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind.
(But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.)
[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
-
High Energy, Compact Armature Ignition Coil without mounting hardware.
(Customer supplies own hardware.) $25.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
High Energy, Compact Armature Ignition Coil with mounting hardware.
(Includes coil w/spark plug boot and terminal, two screws, two nuts, two
lock washers and two spacers.). $30.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Full Size High Energy Output
Oil-Filled 12 Volt Canister Ignition Coils - Each coil listed below have
a 3.0 ohm internal primary resistor and mounting bracket. 20,000 volts output.
Draws 3-4 amps with points or electronic ignition. Use with medium capacity
condenser. For longevity of the coil, use a metal core coil-to-spark plug
wire and a copper core/non-resistor spark plug [Autolite or Champion] gapped
at .035". Replace defective coil or use this part when converting from
Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition.
-
Used, tested and in excellent condition. Comes with a 90 day limited warranty.
OEM Kohler part # 41 519 21-S. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
High quality aftermarket coil. Replaces Kohler part # 41 519 21-S.
$25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler Coil, part # 41 519 21-S. Replaces John Deere part # AM38411 and
Tecumseh part # 32080. $88.61 each, plus shipping & handling.
Full
Size High-Output/Performance Epoxy-Filled Bosch
Blue 12 Volt Canister Ignition Coil
w/3.0 ohm internal primary resistor and mounting bracket. 30,000 volts output.
Draws less than 5 amps with points or electronic ignition. Vibration-Resistant
Epoxy-Filled. For longevity of the coil, use a metal core coil-to-spark plug
wire and a copper core/non-resistor spark plug [Autolite or Champion] gapped
at .060". Use with ignition points and two medium capacity condensers/capacitors
or one high capacity/performance ignition condenser/capacitor for full
coil saturation and
a strong spark so engine will rev up to
full speed, or can be used with ignition points and condenser or A-1 Miller's
custom-made crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger
electronic ignition kits. Set spark plug gap at .060" with this coil.
This genuine Bosch blue coil is epoxy filled with a steel casing. All epoxy
filled or molded epoxy coils will hold up to severe vibrations, can be mounted
in any position and will not leak oil (because there is no oil).
How
battery-powered ignition coils work. $60.00 each, plus shipping
& handling. |
New
1.6 ohm Ballast Resistor for use with a 12 volt ignition coil not
having an internal resistor (listed above) to prevent excessive burning of
points contacts, or use with the Chrysler / Dodge / Plymouth electronic ignition
control module/unit, or connect with coil having a minimum 1.4 ohm internal
primary resistor to prevent burning up the
DynaTek Dyna S electronic ignition control
modules. Install between the coil positive [+] terminal and wire coming from
the ignition switch to the coil. This will allow the points to possibly last
the life of the engine. NOTE: Ignition resistors with a higher
ohm value are known
as "Point Savers." The higher the ohm resistance in an ignition coil or a
ballast resistor has, the longer the ignition points will last (as long as
the points are installed clean, and doesn't become contaminated with dust,
oil, water, etc.). Any 12 volt ignition coil with an 3+ ohm internal primary
resistor connected to a minimum 1.6 ohm ballast resistor when used in a points
and condenser/capacitor ignition system will allow the points to possibly
last the life of the engine. Because the increased resistance allows a very
low current/voltage to pass through the contacts in the points. Also, a
suppression/carbon-core coil-to-spark plug wire and resistor type spark plug
shouldn't be used in this system due to overheating of the ignition coil.
Therefore, it's best that a high temperature metal core conductor coil-to-spark
plug wire and copper core/non-resistor spark plug be used. The ignition system
will still produce a strong spark because an average small engine requires
only a fraction of voltage from the coil. This is best to used with general
lawn and garden, snow removal, etc., and not for competitive pulling. Therefore,
if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an
ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging
system. $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
IMPORTANT: Most failures of a
battery-powered ignition coils and/or electronic ignition control modules
are caused by either the use of suppression/carbon-core spark plug wire(s),
resistor-type spark plug(s), or overcharging of the electrical system due
to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery.
Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an
ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging
system. Also, any coil will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with
the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running.
To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use
an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect
switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power
the ignition system. Also, the coil could burn up if the charging system
continually overcharge due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or
a defective [automotive] battery.
Click here to install electronic ignition
on the KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series
II engines.
High Quality Epoxy-Encapsulated
4.0 Ohm 12 Volt Armature Universal Ignition Coil with Molded-In Dual Metal
Core Spark Plug Wires for Opposed Twin Cylinder Engines. Can be used
on Kohler engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482,
K532, K582, K660/K662, Onan opposed twin cylinder engines, or virtually any
opposed twin cylinder small engine with a fabricated bracket. Mounting hardware
included for custom applications. Two 90º spark plug boots and terminals
included. Can be used with A-1 Miller's custom-made
crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic
ignition or the low capacity condenser with points listed further above.
For a strong spark, best engine performance and longevity of the coil, use
only copper core/non-resistor spark plugs [Autolite or Champion] gapped at
.025" each. Draws approximately 3 amps with points or electronic ignition.
Dimensions: 4" overall length including mounting bracket x 2-1/8" body width
x 15" low tension wires x (2) molded-in 24" length spark plug wires. 20,000
volts output. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Chrome-Plated
4.0 Ohm Oil Filled 12 Volt Canister Ignition Coil with Dual Metal Core Conductor
Spark Plug Wires for Opposed Twin Cylinder Engine. Fits Kohler engine
models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II. Same diameter as OEM
Kohler coil. Two 90º spark plug boots and terminals included. Can be
used with A-1 Miller's custom-made
crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic
ignition or the low capacity condenser with points listed further above.
For a strong spark, best engine performance and longevity of the coil, use
only copper core/non-resistor spark plugs [Autolite or Champion] gapped at
.025" each. Draws approximately 3 amps with points or electronic ignition.
Includes: (1) dual tower chrome-plated ignition coil, (2) rubber spark plug
wire grommets, (2) plastic thread-on coil boots, (2) 90º spark plug
boots w/terminals, and (2) 18" length spark plug wires. Coil dimensions:
4-1/4" length (excluding towers) x 2-1/8" body width x 2-1/4" tower end band
width. 20,000 volts output. Replaces Kohler part # 52 755 48-S. $64.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
Epoxy-Encapsulated 4.0 Ohm
12 Volt Canister Ignition Coils for Opposed Twin Cylinder Engine. Each
coil below fits Kohler engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19
Series II. Can be used with A-1 Miller's custom-made
crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic
ignition or the low capacity condenser with points listed further above.
For a strong spark, best engine performance and longevity of the coil, use
only copper core/non-resistor spark plugs [Autolite or Champion] gapped at
.025" each. Draws approximately 3 amps with points or electronic ignition.
-
High Quality Aftermarket. Same appearance and dimensions as OEM Kohler coil.
Replaces Kohler part # 52 755 48-S. $62.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
OEM Kohler coil with spark plug wires; part # 52 755 48-S. $337.00
each, plus shipping and handing.
Epoxy-Encapsulated 12 Volt
Ignition Coils for Opposed Twin Cylinder Engine. Each listed below fits
Kohler engine models K482, K532, K582, or virtually any opposed twin cylinder
small engine with a fabricated bracket. Can be used with A-1 Miller's custom-made
crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic
ignition or the low capacity condenser with points listed further above.
For a strong spark, best engine performance and longevity of the coil, use
only metal core spark plug wires and copper core/non-resistor spark plugs
[Autolite or Champion] gapped at .025" each. Draws approximately 3 amps with
points or electronic ignition.
-
High quality aftermarket. 5.0 ohm internal primary resistor. 20,000 volts
output. Replaces Kohler part # 277375-S. $55.00 each, plus shipping
& handing.
-
High quality aftermarket. 3.0 ohm internal primary resistor. 30,000 volts
output. Replaces Kohler part # 277375-S. $55.00 each, plus shipping
& handing.
-
OEM Kohler Coil, part # 277375-S. $293.10 each, plus shipping and
handing.
|
  High Quality
High Performance Copper or Metal Core 7mm Spark Plug Wire Assemblies Listed
Below. Universal design for many applications. Suitable for general lawn
& garden equipment or competition garden tractor pulling. Fits Kohler
engine models K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361,
KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series II,
K482, K532, K582 and K660/K662 (with wires cut to desired length) and other
makes and models of small engines with a battery-powered ignition system.
Don't be fooled by the dark color, these wires have a metal core that provide
100% voltage to the spark plug at all times! Copper or metal wire delivers
maximum energy with zero ohm resistance to the spark plug, which allows the
ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. (Most OEM automotive or
brightly-colored coil-to-spark plug wires have a suppression/carbon core
that deliver about 40%-50% voltage to the spark plug at peak demand, which
is at wide open throttle engine operation.) Solid brass terminals for maximum
conductivity and corrosion resistance. Snug-fitting quality rubber boots
keep out dirt and moisture for reliable engine start up. Engineered for
reliability and long life. Spring-lock terminals insure positive and secure
connection through the toughest conditions and multiple spark plug changes.
Please specify if you need the boot for a 5/8"
(fits most dual wire twin cylinder coils and high-output/performance coils)
or 3/4" (fits most standard-output coils) diameter coil
tower.
-
10" Length Metal Core Spark Plug Wire with 90º/Angled Spark Plug
Boot/Terminal and Straight Coil Boot/Terminal Installed. Fits Kohler
engine models K241, K301, K321 and K341 with coil mounted next to carburetor
on upper left side of flywheel shroud. Replace defective coil-to-spark
plug wire or use this part when converting from Breakerless Ignition to
battery-powered points/condenser ignition. High quality aftermarket. Irrelevant
Kohler part number. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
13" Length Metal Core Spark plug Wire with 90º/Angled Spark Plug
Boot/Terminal and Straight Coil Boot/Terminal Installed. Fits Kohler
engine models K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321 and K341 with coil
mounted on carburetor side of engine on lower left part of flywheel shroud
or on starter/right side of engine. Also fits Kohler AQS (Quiet Line)
engine models K241, K301, K321, K341 and K361 with coil mounted above
starter motor, or use this part when converting from Breakerless Ignition
to battery-powered points/condenser ignition. High quality aftermarket. Replaces
discontinued OEM Kohler part # 238057-S. $10.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
11" and 19" Length Metal Core Spark Plug Wire Set with 90º/Angled
Spark Plug Boot/Terminal and Straight Coil Boot/Terminal Installed. Fits
Kohler engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design)
and KT19 Series II. High quality aftermarket. A-1 Miller's parts. Replaces
discontinued Kohler part #'s 52 348 01-S (11") and 52 348 02-S (19").
$20.00 for two spark plug wires, plus shipping & handling.
-
14" and 18" Length Metal Core Spark Plug Wire Set with 90º/Angled
Spark Plug Boot/Terminal and Straight Coil Boot/Terminal Installed. Fits
Kohler engine models K482, K532, K582, K660/K662, or Onan opposed twin cylinder
engines. High quality aftermarket. A-1 Miller's parts. Replaces discontinued
Kohler part # 238057-S. $20.00 for two spark plug wires, plus shipping
& handling.
-
25-1/2" length. Universal applications. OEM Kohler part # 25 348 01-S.
$13.80 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Complete
Battery-Powered Ignition Conversion Kits Listed Below - When
Kohler's OEM magneto or Breakerless Ignition fails, the engine can be converted
to a battery-powered ignition system. Battery-powered ignition systems last
longer, produce a stronger spark, and when a part goes bad, it doesn't cost
much to replace. It's a reliable, simple design and there's no guesswork
about it. FYI: Battery-powered ignition conversion kits are intended mainly
for various older engines when the OEM magneto or Breakerless Ignition no
longer produce a spark, replacement parts are not available, are very expensive
or cost prohibitive. (Sometimes one must improvise when certain parts are
obsolete.) Also, the most hassle when using battery-powered ignition without
a charging system integrated with the engine to recharge the battery is the
use of a remote battery charger. And eventually a new battery will need to
be purchased, because they only last a few years. For a battery to power
the ignition, a small, lightweight and rechargeable
12 volt sealed lead acid (SLA) battery with a minimum 4Ah
(Amp Hour) rating or a small
motorcycle battery can be used.
FYI - Kohler's Breakerless Ignition and Tecumseh's (cast iron engine) Solid
State Ignition (SSI) systems use a [security] key switch that's also made
for a self-energizing magneto or magneto-type solid state ignition system.
Unlike the key switch for a battery-powered ignition system, the Breakerless
Ignition is self-energizing, and to kill the engine, the key switch grounds
out or shorts the [low voltage] circuit between the energizing coil and ignition
module. And the battery-powered key switch opens the circuit to kill the
engine. So with the battery-powered points and condenser ignition system
(along with a 12 volt coil), you will need to use a battery-powered key switch,
or an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or [security] key switch to power the ignition
and a momentary push button switch to crank the engine could be used instead.
If swapping out the OEM Breakerless Ignition, SSI, magneto or solid state
ignition key switch for a battery-powered ignition key switch, the wire
connectors in the wiring harness plug will need to be rearranged to match
the terminals on the key switch to power the ignition, crank the engine and
run other electrical accessories. I've done this before on some of my customer's
garden tractors and it works great.
Click/tap here for
battery-powered ignition wiring diagrams. |
Several years
ago, an out of town customer brought his John Deere model 110 to our shop
for repairs. This tractor has a Kohler engine model K181 with magneto ignition
and a 10 amp alternator charging system. (The ignition coil and charging
coils are on the same armature/stator plate under the flywheel.) My customer
told me that he had another reputable small engine repair shop in his hometown
install a new spark plug, points, condenser and an entirely new stator assembly,
but they could not get the engine to rev up.
Anyway, I put the tractor on the sturdy
platform table that I
built to make it easier to work on. The engine would start right up and idle
well, but failed to rev up. It would just die out when throttled up. So I
cleaned and inspected the entire carburetor, including clearing out anything
that may have been lodged in the main jet; tried a new Autolite 295 copper
core spark plug gapped at .030"; cleaned and reset the points gap; tried
another new condenser; removed
the new stator assembly and reinstalled the original stator assembly; installed
a new OEM Kohler magneto armature ignition coil on the stator; and even tried
a different flywheel, but with all of these things, one after the other,
the engine would still die out above idle, no matter what. Then I connected
a temporary battery-powered ignition system with jumper wires just to find
if the engine would rev up to full throttle, and it did, with no problems!
Then after all of this, I found that the charging system would not generate
the full 10 amps to recharge the battery. It would only generate about 3
amps. (The tractor had a factory-installed amp gauge.) The voltage
rectifier/regulator was in good condition too, but there was nothing I could
do to fix this. But not all JD 110's have this problem. Only a few of them.
So after some thoughtful consideration, I came to the conclusion that the
OEM Kohler part # 237876 magneto ignition/charging system stator assembly
is obviously a notorious, bad design. Although this system is still available
new from Kohler, Kohler discontinued installing this on certain engines only
after a short time. (Apparently, for an obvious reason.)
Anyway, I decided (actually, I had no choice because I'm so determined) to
convert the engine to the more reliable battery-powered ignition system.
But being this JD 110 has a confined engine compartment with limited space
and with the air cleaner assembly that fastens directly to the carburetor
with no upward intake elbow, there is no place to mount a full size 12 volt
canister ignition coil. So I fastened a new compact
epoxy-encapsulated 12 volt armature ignition coil on the carburetor side
of the flywheel shroud. I removed the shroud, located where to drill two
7/32" holes to mount the coil, and although
Rivet Nuts could have been used, I just
tack-welded a couple of 10-24
UNC (or 10-32 UNF) nuts inside the shroud. Then I used a couple of spacers
for the coil's armature, and fastened the coil to the nuts through the shroud
with a couple of matching 10-24 UNC (or 10-32 UNF) screws with split lock
washers. (The coil looked nice on the engine, like it's factory installed.)
I could have tack-welded the head of the screws on the inside of the flywheel
shroud instead, and fastened the coil with a couple of nuts on the screws
from the outside. Either way would've worked fine. Anyway, then I replaced
the OEM JD 110 magneto-type off-ignition-start key switch with a new universal
battery-type off-ignition-start key switch. I traced each wire from the OEM
key switch and rearranged the slide-on spade connectors in the plastic connector
housing on the switch to match the terminals on the battery-type ignition
key switch and connected the "I" terminal on the switch to the [+] terminal
on the coil so the ignition system will work. I reused the same ignition
points and low capacity condenser with the compact coil. The low capacity/magneto
ignition condenser worked great with the compact battery-powered armature
ignition coil! And I gapped the spark plug at .030" for this compact coil.
When I finished, the engine started right up, idled smoothly, and revved
up to full throttle with no hesitation or misfire. When my customer came
to pick up his tractor, I told him everything I did to it, and being the
charging system is weak, he will need to use a 120 volt portable battery
charger to keep the battery fully charged.
If you have a similar ignition problem like this and if you're interested,
I offer all the parts, including a new compact epoxy-encapsulated 12 volt
armature ignition coil kit, that can be used to convert the magneto ignition
to battery-powered ignition for your tractor. See the complete ignition
conversion kit(s) below. I can also convert your tractor from a faulty magneto
ignition to the more reliable battery-powered ignition if you don't mind
bringing your tractor to my shop. - Brian Miller
Click here
to contact A-1 Miller's for FREE honest and accurate technical support and/or
for ordering information and payment options. Please contact A-1
Miller's
if you need a part or parts,
or service performed that's not listed or mentioned in this
website. [Top of Page]
Convert virtually any single
cylinder, air-cooled cast iron or various aluminum block small gas engine,
such as Kohler, Tecumseh, Briggs & Stratton, Clinton, etc., with a failed
magneto ignition system to the battery-powered ignition system. NOTE:
Must use a universal automotive off/ignition/start key
switch, or a push-button switch to crank the engine with an OFF-ON toggle/flip
switch or [security] key switch to power this ignition. Reuse same type
of spark plug and existing ignition points (if in good condition), but set
the point gap at .020" or set ignition timing at 20º BTDC. See ignition
kits and wiring diagram below
Ê.
High Quality Ignition Kit to Convert from Kohler Magneto Ignition to the
More Reliable Battery-Powered Ignition System for a Confined Engine
Compartment with Limited Space and no place to mount a full size canister
coil. A fully charged 12 volt battery is required for this ignition
system. Designed for Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181,
K241, K301, K321, K330/K331 and K341. When ordering, please indicate model
of engine. New parts include: high energy compact epoxy-encapsulated 12 volt
armature ignition coil w/3.5 ohm internal primary resistor and integrated
metal core spark plug wire, with mounting spacers/screws/nuts; low capacity
condenser/capacitor; ignition points; points cover gasket; 9" length
"assemble-it-yourself" #16 gauge (AWG) coil-to-points wire w/terminals (reuse
original points cover/wire grommet); and new spark plug. To install terminal
on spark plug wire, make sure the pointed prong on the terminal penetrates
the insulation of the wire, or strip a short part of the insulation and bend
over the wire to make full connect with the terminal, and use a
spark plug wire crimping tool, then apply automotive grease
on the spark plug wire and inside boot so it will slide easily on the wire
and over the terminal. And if using this kit on an engine with a recoil
starter, as for the battery cables, being I have no idea how long they need
to be, you will need to fabricate these yourself. When ordering, please specify
model of engine for correct type of spark plug. Dimensions of coil - overall
length of armature: 3-1/2" x diameter of coil body: 1-1/4" x widest width
of coil body: 1-1/2" x mounting hole spacing: 3-1/8" x length of spark plug
wire: 13-1/2". To install this coil, drill two 7/32" holes in alignment with
holes in coil's armature through flywheel shroud next to carburetor or above
starter gear and tack-weld the
two supplied nuts (in alignment with drilled holes) or tack-weld head of
screws (to serve as studs) to inside of shroud, and securely fasten coil
with the two supplied spacers, lock washers to nuts or screws. (When fastened
to flywheel shroud, coil will have a nice, distinctive appearance, and like
it's factory-installed.) Use #250
slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors when connecting
wires to this coil terminals. Set spark plug gap at .030" with this system.
IMPORTANT - Either an OFF-ON-START 12 volt battery-powered ignition key
switch, a momentary push button switch (to crank the engine if it is equipped
with an electric starter) with an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or OFF-ON key
switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition) MUST be used with this
type of ignition system. Go here for choice of
switches. The original magneto coil can be removed from the stator. It
will not be needed. If the stator has charging coils, leave them installed
and connected so they can recharge the battery and power electrical accessories.
IMPORTANT
- All coils will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points
closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent
this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key
switch and/or a master disconnect switch
with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition
system. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian
Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I
do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.)
-
Complete Ignition Kit listed above without any switches. (Customer supplies
own switches.) $69.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
-
Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON toggle/flip ignition switch
for engines with a recoil starter. $72.50 per kit, plus shipping &
handling.
-
Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON toggle/flip ignition switch
and momentary push button switch (to crank the engine) for engines with an
electric starter. $81.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
-
Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON-START battery-powered rotary
ignition key switch for engines with an electric starter. $84.50 per
kit, plus shipping & handling.
-
Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON rotary ignition key switch
and momentary push button switch (to crank the engine) for engines with an
electric starter. $93.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Ignition Kit to Convert from Kohler Magneto Ignition to the
More Reliable Battery-Powered Ignition System for an Unconfined Engine
Compartment with Unlimited Space to mount a full size canister coil.
A fully charged 12 volt battery is required for this ignition system. Designed
for Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321,
K330/K331 and K341. When ordering, please indicate model of engine. New parts
include: full size 12 volt canister ignition coil w/3.0 ohm internal primary
resistor and mounting bracket, 11" length metal core conductor spark plug
wire, medium capacity condenser/capacitor, ignition points, points cover
gasket, 12" length "assemble-it-yourself" #16 gauge (AWG) coil-to-points
wire w/terminals (reuse original points cover/wire grommet), and new spark
plug (please specify model of engine when ordering for correct type of spark
plug). Set spark plug gap at .035" with this system. And if using this kit
on an engine with a recoil starter, as for the battery cables, being I have
no idea how long they need to be, you will need to fabricate these yourself.
IMPORTANT - Either an OFF-ON-START battery-powered rotary ignition key
switch or an OFF-ON toggle/flip ignition switch or an OFF-ON key ignition
switch (for security purposes) and a momentary push button switch (to crank
the engine if it is equipped with an electric starter) MUST be used with
this type of ignition system. Go here for choice of
switches. And the original magneto coil can be removed from the stator.
It will not be needed. If the stator has charging coils, leave them installed
and connected so they can recharge the battery and power electrical accessories.
IMPORTANT
- All coils will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points
closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent
this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key
switch and/or a master disconnect switch
with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition
system.
-
Complete Ignition Kit listed above without any switches. (Customer supplies
own switches.) $65.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
-
Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON toggle/flip ignition switch
for engines with a recoil starter. $68.50 per kit, plus shipping &
handling..
-
Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON-START battery-powered rotary
ignition key switch for engines with an electric starter. $80.50 per
kit, plus shipping & handling.
-
Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON rotary ignition key switch
and momentary push button switch (to crank the engine) for engines with an
electric starter. $89.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
|
Click/tap Here for a Custom-Made,
100% Reliable and Maintenance-Free Electronic Ignition System That Operate
Off the Flywheel End of a Lawn & Garden Small Engine to Eliminate the
Points and Condenser. |
Click/tap Here for a Custom-Made,
100% Reliable and Maintenance-Free Crank-Trigger Electronic Ignition System
That Operate Off the PTO End of a Competition Pulling Small Engine to Eliminate
the Points and Condenser. |
New points, condensers/capacitors, coils and spark plugs
for other makes and models of engines are also available. Please call or
email A-1 Miller's for your needs.
Click here
to contact A-1 Miller's for FREE honest and accurate technical support and/or
for ordering information and payment options. Please contact A-1
Miller's
if you need a part or parts,
or service performed that's not listed or mentioned in this
website. [Top of Page] |
Custom-Made Reliable and
Maintenance-Free Electronic Ignition Systems That Operate Off the Flywheel
End of Virtually Any Older Small Engine - Eliminates Old-Fashioned Points
and Condenser or OEM Solid State Ignition

Get that
old, antique small gas engine running again with 21st century
technology using 100% reliable digital electronic ignition, even when new
replacement parts are obsolete or cost-prohibited. Electronic ignition can
be installed on virtually any small gas engine. Where there's a will, there's
a way. It's mind over matter.
Click here
to contact A-1 Miller's for FREE honest and accurate technical support and/or
for ordering information and payment options. Please contact A-1
Miller's
if you need a part or parts,
or service performed that's not listed or mentioned in this
website. [Top of Page]
FYI - I can install any of my custom-made
flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition systems on your older small
gas engine and/or rewire your lawn & garden tractor, equipment or competition
garden pulling tractor so all the electrical accessories will work and if
everything else is in good condition with the engine (compression, carburetion,
etc.), the engine should start quickly, idle well and rev up to its full
potential every time. I have the knowledge, skills, all the tools and parts
necessary to perform a professional job. I've rewired many customer's lawn
& garden tractors, small engine equipment and competition garden pulling
tractors many times with great results. If you're interested,
click/tap here for my contact
information and directions to A-1 Miller's shop. - Brian
Miller
This is the era of modern wonders, where everything is electronic,
transistorized, digitized and miniaturized. Yet even today, many competition
garden pulling tractors with an older engine still use the old-fashioned
breaker point ignition systems. For other people, the frustration of attempting
to keep a breaker point-fired tractor in peak running condition has been
enough of a reason to join the electronic/solid state electronic ignition
era. Breaker point systems do have some positives, though. ignition points
are cheap and somewhat easy to install. And many people are comfortable with
installing their own ignition points. The bad side of using ignition points
is, besides the ignition points contacts burning, pitting and wearing out,
if or when the ignition points lobe on the (Kohler) camshaft and/or the ignition
points pushrod become worn, this will narrow the gap on the ignition points,
and retard the ignition timing. The ignition points lobe can wear so much
that resetting the ignition points at the factory setting of .020" or setting
the ignition timing at 20º BTDC becomes impossible. As the point gap
gets too narrow, the ignition timing will become retarded (less than the
factory setting of 20º BTDC), which will cause the engine to run sluggish
and lose power, and when it gets too wide, the timing will become too advanced
(more than the factory setting of 20º BTDC), which will cause the engine
to run hotter than normal, which could cause premature engine wear and oil
burning, eventually resulting in an engine rebuild. There's also less chance
of a dangerous fire due to non-existence of ignition points.
Self-energizing small engine magneto armature
ignition coils and battery-powered coils with either points and condenser
or electronic ignition must be used with a metal core conductor spark plug
wire and a copper core/non-resistor spark plug. Most automobiles with electronic
ignition have
suppression/carbon core spark plug wires only to prevent
interference of sensitive electronic components and [AM/FM] radio static.
However, if a suppression/carbon core spark plug wire and/or a resistor type
spark plug is used with a magneto or battery-powered ignition coil, the coil
may operate at a much higher than normal temperature (too hot to the touch),
and either the coil will fail or the engine will idle well, but hesitate
to rev up at high RPM due to the high resistance in the suppression/carbon
core spark plug wire and/or a resistor type spark plug. And avoid using a
suppression/carbon core spark plug wire with an electronic
ignition system on a small engine! The reason being is if the suppression/carbon
core spark plug wire becomes extremely weak and deteriorated with very high
resistance, this can cause the ignition coil and possibly the electronic
ignition control module to burn up.
NOTE: With my Universal Solid State
Electronic Ignition Module and crank-trigger/flywheel-trigger ignition systems
(all listed below), when installed accordingly, the ignition timing is ALWAYS
advanced. If it's set or installed retarded, it will NOT automatically advance
as soon as the engine starts. If the timing is set retarded, the only way
to advance it is by rotating an ignition plate or ignition distributor manually
by hand, or automatically by a vacuum canister with intake manifold, or by
centrifugal force with flyweights.
When the timing is retarded, the
engine may start with no problems, but not idle or rev up too well, and it'll
lack sufficient power. Also, with retarded timing, all of the fuel in the
combustion chamber will not be burned. Part of the raw fuel will exit out
of the exhaust, while the rest will remain in the chamber combustion and
cling to the cylinder wall, causing the crankcase lubricating oil to become
diluted or thin-out. When this happens,
"cylinder
wash down" will result.
Cylinder wash
down is when the gas (or
diesel fuel) dilutes the light coating of oil on the cylinder wall, and the
piston rings will no longer be adequately lubricated, causing direct metal
to metal contact, which will cause them to wear excessively, and cause the
cylinder wall have a protruding ridge towards the top, resulting in a smoky,
oil burning engine overtime.
Cylinder wash
down can also happen to
a diesel engine when the fuel injectors are purposely "turned up" to increase
the fuel delivery so the engine will produce more power. This will cause
a lot of black smoke be blown out the exhaust all the time (at idle and
especially upon acceleration), which will result in shorter engine life,
and eventually, gray exhaust smoke (crankcase oil ash) will be mixed with
the black exhaust smoke (partially burned diesel fuel ash). It'll run
good for a while!
But when the ignition timing is too advanced, this will cause the engine
to run too hot, which will likely cause the piston(s) to swell larger than
normal, allowing it/them to make metal to metal contact against the cylinder
wall, resulting in excessive wear. When the piston wears, it will be too
loose in the cylinder, causing a rattling sound. Plus, due to the worn piston,
the rings will loose their square edge against the cylinder wall, and become
rounded, which will allow oil to be moved to the top of the piston instead
of being scraped back into the crankcase. (This is the how the 2nd or middle
ring works.) Plus, the rings will lose their expansion against the cylinder
wall as well. Eventually, the engine will blow blue or gray smoke out the
exhaust, and it will ultimately need to be rebuilt.
If electronic ignition is installed correctly, when the ignition is triggered
by the flywheel, this stabilizes the timing, so you won't ever have to worry
about it changing. The engine will produce more power and you will have more
confidence that the engine will last longer. (As long as an air filter is
used, the carburetor is adjusted correctly and the crankcase oil is changed
regularly.) So for the utmost precision ignition timing and maintenance-free
convenience, flywheel-trigger electronic ignition is the way to go! The high
performance electronic ignition systems offered in this website produce a
stable and very strong spark with the use of
microelectronics. They will allow the engine to start quicker,
idle smoothly, rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or misfire and produce
more power.
As a matter of fact, electronic ignition works so well, this is why most
small engine manufacturers dropped their points and condenser ignition and
went to the more dependable and reliable electronic ignition in 1982. And
most automotive manufacturers started installing the more dependable and
reliable electronic ignition in their vehicles since 1972 (Chrysler products)
and 1974 (GM and Ford products).
Tired of cleaning, changing or constantly readjusting the ignition points,
and replacing the condenser? Well, upgrade/convert the engine with an A-1
Miller's custom-made, maintenance-free and weather-proof 100% digitized
flywheel-trigger electronic ignition system! Shock and moisture resistant,
and all it takes is a few simple hand tools to install. In my opinion, getting
rid of the points and condenser/capacitor have been the best advance ever
in engine technology. FYI - I've designed and sold many various custom-made
electronic ignition systems to customers for the past several years and haven't
received one complaint about the performance of their engine. Because I use
technology that I learned from experiences with my competitive competition
pulling tractors (engines) to help factory stock lawn & garden engines
perform better. And as a matter of fact, other people have emailed or called
me to complain to me about my competitor's replacement electronic ignition
systems for Tecumseh engines. They said their technical customer service
assistance to resolve the problem was of no help. No joke. Apparently, my
competitors haven't quite figured it out yet.
FYI - Kohler's Breakerless Ignition and Tecumseh's (cast iron engine) Solid
State Ignition (SSI) systems use a key switch that's also made for a
self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system. Unlike
the key switch for a battery-powered ignition system, the Breakerless Ignition
is self-energizing, and to kill the engine, the key switch grounds out or
shorts the [low voltage] circuit between the energizing coil and ignition
module. And the battery-powered key switch opens the circuit to kill the
engine. So with the battery-powered points and condenser ignition system
(along with a 12 volt coil), you will need to use a battery-powered key switch,
or an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or [security] key switch to power the ignition
and a momentary push button switch to crank the engine could be used instead.
If swapping out the OEM Breakerless Ignition, SSI, magneto or solid state
ignition key switch for a battery-powered ignition key switch, the wire
connectors in the wiring harness plug will need to be rearranged to match
the terminals on the key switch to power the ignition, crank the engine and
run other electrical accessories. I've done this before on some of my customer's
garden tractors and it works great.
Click/tap here for
battery-powered ignition wiring diagrams.
Replace Old-Fashioned, Out-Dated and
Troublesome Points and Condenser in Virtually Any Magneto Ignition System
with the State of the Art Universal Solid State Electronic Ignition
Module! | [Top of Page]
-
  Designed
to convert a self-energizing magneto ignition system into the more reliable
and dependable electronic ignition. Will NOT work with 12 volt battery-powered
ignition systems. Module will burn up instantly when power is
supplied.
-
Upgrade the magneto ignition system on virtually any engine with the latest
technology! Do away with the ignition points and condenser/capacitor (plug
the points pushrod hole), and install a solid state electronic ignition module.
It should be the end of your ignition problems. The ignition points and
condenser/capacitor is not to be connected to the coil or module. They need
to be removed from the engine and plug the ignition
points pushrod hole (Briggs & Stratton or Kohler engines).
-
Being the ignition timing will be advanced at all times with this module,
it will not work on the older Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K241
and K330/K331 with the old-style two piece camshaft that automatically advances
the timing (with points) as soon as the engine starts. Therefore, separate
ignition and starter switches must be used, or a later model camshaft with
the automatic compression release (ACR) mechanism will need to be installed
in the engine.
-
This universal and high performance ignition system have been thoroughly
tested under extreme conditions, and produces a stable and very strong spark
with the use of
microelectronics, allowing the engine to start quickly,
idle smoothly and rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or misfire to produce
more power. This module has a durable die-cast aluminum housing. Weather-proof
and very reliable. Ignition timing is automatically set. Resulting in no
"kickback" and no timing adjustment required. Works excellent with virtually
any magneto armature ignition coil!
-
Suitable for use with most 2 leg or 3 leg magneto coils and with a flywheel
having one or two magnets mounted internally or externally, and with coil
mounted underneath or outside of flywheel. Works great regardless of the
polarity of the magnets, too. Works on most lawn mowers, chain saws, trimmers,
garden tillers, snow throwers, brush cutters, various one or two cylinder
outboard boat motors, etc., with ignition points and condenser/capacitor
ignition. But will not work with most Stihl trimmers and chain saws, or when
the armature ignition coil is energized by a generator that gets its power
from the magnet in the flywheel, such as various outboard boat motors. Usually,
the coil don't need replacing when substituting the ignition points and
condenser/capacitor with one of these solid state electronic ignition modules.
If the engine ran, then the coil is obviously good.
-
Works only with magneto type armature ignition coils originally connected
to contact ignition points and a condenser/capacitor. They will not work
with solid state electronic ignition (CDI) coils, battery ignition coils
or with flywheels having a ring of magnets mounted internally to which the
ignition coil (mounted underneath flywheel also) operates off of, such as
the bigger aluminum block Tecumseh engines (8hp and up). Engines can't start
under full compression and with advanced ignition timing. One or the other
must be "suppressed" in order for the engine to crank over without "kicking
back" to start. Either it needs to have an automatic compression release
to relieve about half the compression, then the compression will return to
full upon start up, or the timing needs to be positioned at TDC, then it
can automatically advance upon start up. (With the module, as each magnet
pass the coil, it'll produce a spark. And if the spark don't occur at the
precise time with the piston at a certain position in the cylinder, the engine
will either "kickback" or will not run.) "Kickback" occurs when the
crankshaft/flywheel suddenly and quickly momentarily rotates in the opposite
direction, which is could bend or break the starter armature shaft or the
aluminum starter housing. If the magnets for the charging system won't interfere
with the magneto coil(s), then these modules should work well. But if the
magneto coil(s) operate off the same magnets for the charging system, then
neither module won't work. The modules senses when the magnet pass the coil
and that's when it makes the spark. If a bunch of magnets continually pass
the coil, then the coil will produce an array of sparks.
-
How the timing is automatically set and how it works: First of all, with
ignition points, the point gap determines where the ignition timing is set
(on systems with a fixed or non-adjustable armature ignition coil). Therefore,
the spark occurs when the magnet in the flywheel pass the coil armature the
moment the ignition points open. But with no ignition points, the magnet
still pass the coil armature at the same moment, which sends an electrical
current through a transistor and electronic components within these modules.
This current is sent in the form of a signal to the module; within, a transistor
opens the primary circuit in the coil and the spark occurs. All this happens
at the speed of electricity, which can be anywhere from about 50% to 99%
of the speed of light, depending upon the quality of the electronic components
and Wiring connections. Either module provides unlimited RPM. The conventional
ignition points and condenser/capacitor ignition system is less responsive.
With this module, the ignition timing will never change.
-
And I'm not sure how to test for a bad or faulty solid state electronic ignition
module. They either work or don't work. And to tell the truth, I've never
had one go bad. Usually, if there's no spark, then either the module is not
properly grounded to the engine, the module is installed too close to the
engine exhaust heat, the connectors on the module needs to be reversed, a
faulty wiring connection, the coil is bad or the spark plug is fouled (red
or white spark).
-
This module should work very well with most magneto armature ignition coils.
However, a new coil is recommended to use with this module. If a used coil
is utilized, a weak spark may occur. This module is not for use on engines
equipped with battery ignition, solid state electronic armature ignition
coil/module or multiple magnets under the flywheel with armature ignition
coil under the flywheel, too. Scroll
down for wiring diagrams and installation instructions
Ê.
Video of this ignition module installed on a running engine coming soon.
Wiring Diagram and Installation Instructions for Universal Solid State
Electronic Magneto Ignition Module are as follows:
-
Fasten the module to the engine
sheet metal that has plenty of cool, circulating air with the supplied mounting
screw.
-
Connect the supplied wire to one of the terminals on the module and to engine
ground.
-
The armature ignition coil has two small wires coming out of it. Leave the
original (short) wire connected (grounded) to the stator armature, and connect
the wire that went to the points and condenser to the unused terminal on
the module.
-
Remove the spark plug from the cylinder head, and connect the high tension
coil wire to a new spark plug positioned on a (grounded) metal part of the
engine.
-
Crank the engine rapidly, and at the same time, observe for a blue, snappy
spark. If there's no spark, try reversing the two wires on the module. (This
is due to reverse polarity in the flywheel magnet.). Please
contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any of these parts or
services.
 3/16" Steel Plug to Replace Kohler Ignition Points
Pushrod. Use in Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181,
K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, K482, K532 and K582 when converting from magneto
to solid state ignition (listed above), Magnum solid state ignition, A-1
Miller's flywheel- or
crank-trigger electronic ignition (further
down in this website). Remove the points cover, ignition points and pushrod,
and install this plug in the pushrod hole (to prevent major oil leakage)
with a medium size hammer; fits very tight. No need to reinstall cover and
points. NOTE: The alternative to using this plug is to remove the ignition
points and points pushrod, and place the pushrod on a hard, flat surface,
and use a hammer and sharp flat cold chisel to lightly create knurled raised
marks midway on the pushrod. Then reinstall the knurled pushrod in the engine
block with the hammer. Or a
20 penny common nail cut off to 1/2" length and the end
ground to a bevel will serve the same purpose. The knurling will retain the
pushrod in the hole. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller.
Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate
them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.)
OEM Briggs & Stratton part
#'s 231143, 692882. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
[Return to previous paragraph, section
or website] |
Convert the
Points/Condenser Ignition System to a Maintenance-Free, Reliable
Flywheel-Triggered Electronic Ignition System on a Kohler engine model K141,
K160/K161, K181, K241, K301 or K321 with the 8" Flywheel and
Starter/Generator | [Top of Page]
    This ignition
system works flawlessly, is very reliable and may outlast the life of the
engine. This ignition system requires 12 volts DC negative ground. This high
performance ignition system have been thoroughly tested under extreme conditions,
and produces a stable and very strong spark with the use of
microelectronics, even with a stock ignition coil (the
30,000 volt Bosch blue coil is not needed with this system), allowing the
engine to start quickly, idle smoothly and rev up to full speed. To prevent
burning up the PerTronix Ignitor module, it MUST be used with a coil having
a minimum of 3.0 ohm resistance. The PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor electronic
ignition sends more energy to the coil, which delivers twice the voltage
to the spark plug, increasing horsepower, engine efficiency and spark plug
life. Hall Effect integrated circuit means no points to burn, and no moving
parts to wear out. Epoxy molding makes the module/sensor impervious to dirt,
oil, grease and moisture. Stable timing - no need for any adjustments. This
simple and reliable ignition system produce a stable and very strong spark,
and the ignition timing will always be set at the factory recommended 20º
BTDC, or wherever you set it. This system can be used on ordinary lawn &
garden engines or for competition pulling engines (if rules permit) with
battery-powered ignition. And being the ignition timing will be advanced
at all times with this module, it will not work on the older Kohler engine
models K141, K160/K161, K241 and K330/K331 with the old-style two piece camshaft
that automatically advances the timing (with points) as soon as the engine
starts. Therefore, separate ignition and starter switches must be used, or
a later model camshaft with the automatic compression release (ACR) mechanism
will need to be installed in the engine. This ignition system may outlast
the life of the engine. This revolutionizes the ignition system for older
cast iron block Kohler engines with the starter/generator and 8" flywheel!
All replacement ignition parts are readily available. The PerTronix Ignitor
must be used with a minimum 3.0 ohm coil or module will burn up. Most small
engine battery ignition coils have a 3.0 or 4.0 ohm internal primary resistor.
But test your coil just to make sure!
Click/tap here to
learn how to test the ohm resistance in a coil. An ingenious and
innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products
of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and
intelligence.)
IMPORTANT: Most failures of a battery-powered
ignition coils and/or electronic ignition control modules are caused by either
the use of suppression/carbon-core spark plug wire(s), resistor-type spark
plug(s), or overcharging of the electrical system due to a defective voltage
rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery. Therefore, if it's
not already equipped, it's best to install an
ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging
system. Also, any coil will burn
up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than
a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly
happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a
master disconnect switch with a removable
key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system.
Also, the coil could burn up if the
charging system continually overcharge due to a defective voltage
rectifier/regulator or a defective [automotive]
battery.
-
Compact and out-of-the-way design. Module/sensor fits under the flywheel
shroud, fastens on the bearing plate next to the flywheel. No "bulky ignition
box" and wiring to clutter the engine compartment.
-
Stable ignition timing with solid state electronic circuitry. No points to
burn or wear, and no need for adjustment... ever!
-
Epoxy molded sealed module/sensor makes this part impervious to dirt, oil,
grease and moisture.
-
2:1 improvement over points in current fall time for increased coil output.
-
Compatible with most ignition coils with a minimum of 0.3 ohm primary resistance.
IMPORTANT - Do not use a coil of lesser ohm resistance because it may
cause the module/sensor to burn up.
-
This type of electronic ignition sends more energy to the coil, which delivers
twice the voltage to the spark plug, increasing horsepower, engine efficiency
and spark plug life. It allows the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly,
rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or misfire and produce more power.
Cold weather engine start-up energy boost and maintains peak energy throughout
the entire engine RPM.
Directions to Install This Kit -
Click/tap here to print out these
installation instructions.
-
Remove the points and condenser and block-off the points pushrod hole with
the supplied plug.
-
Align or center the S timing mark on the flywheel with the timing
sight hole in the bearing plate, and draw a line on the edge of and lengthways
with the flywheel at the 10:30 position.
-
Draw another line 1" from the bearing plate crossways with the line on the
flywheel.
-
Drill and tap 6-32 UNC threads
in the flywheel where the two lines intersect and install the supplied trigger
screw/magnet/rubber washer (weighs approximately 1/10 oz. / 2.8 grams) in
this spot. The screw head is magnetized to trigger the spark. This spot
allows the screw/magnet/rubber washer to clear the flywheel shroud mounting
boss located at the 4:30 position on the bearing plate.
Click/tap here to
learn how to professionally cut new threads. NOTE: The rubber washer
prevents the high strength but delicate and brittle magnet from possibly
breaking when the screw is tightened to the uneven or rough casting on the
flywheel. IMPORTANT: To prevent from possibly loosening, secure screw in
flywheel or rotating disc with
high strength liquid threadlocker
(Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent). Tighten
screw just when the rubber begin to bulge, and allow the Loctite to dry and
harden overnight. The PerTronix Ignitor hall effect module/sensor is activated
by the South pole of the magnet, so do not remove the magnet from the
screw!
-
With the S mark on the flywheel aligned or centered with the timing
sight hole in the bearing plate, center the Ignitor with the magnet, allow
.010"-.050" clearance, mark on the bearing plate and drill and tap 6-32 UNC
threads in the bearing plate to mount the Ignitor and spacer.
Click/tap here to learn
how to professionally cut new threads. Be sure to apply
thermal paste (to dissipate normal operating heat) between
the Ignitor and aluminum spacer to help cool the module, and then securely
fasten the Ignitor and aluminum spacer to the bearing plate with the supplied
6-32 UNC screws and split lock washers.
IMPORTANT
- Gently rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand to check and see that
the module/sensor does not make contact with the screw head. Damage to the
module/sensor will occur if it makes contact with the screw
head!
-
Drill a 5/16" hole through the bearing plate behind the Ignitor and route
the wires from the Ignitor to the ignition coil. Bevel or chamber the drilled
hole, use a rubber grommet or apply
clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant in the hole and around
the wires to hold the wires rigid to prevent the insulation on the wires
from rubbing and possibly being shorted.
-
Disconnect and do away with the wires to the points and condenser (plug the
points pushrod hole). Connect the BLACK wire on the Ignitor to the
coil negative () terminal, and connect the
RED wire on the Ignitor to the coil positive
[+] terminal and to the ignition switch (positive [+] battery post).
IMPORTANT
- The module/sensor will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more
than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly
happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a
master disconnect switch with a removable
key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition
system.
-
With an ordinary stock coil, set the spark plug gap .035" and place the spark
plug on a grounded metal cover. Turn the ignition switch on, rotate the flywheel
back and forth by hand so the magnet passes the Ignitor and observe for a
strong, blue spark at the spark plug's tip.
-
Kit Without Any Ignition Coil. Customer reuse their own 3.0+ ohm coil.
Click here to learn how to check
the ohms resistance in a coil. Kit includes: New hall effect PerTronix
Ignitor module/sensor, aluminum spacer, thermal paste and mounting screws,
trigger screw w/magnet and protective rubber washer, and plug for the points
pushrod hole. $96.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Kit With New Compact Epoxy-Encapsulated Armature Ignition Coil.
Coil fastens on outside of flywheel shroud with mounting nuts or head
of mounting screws tack-welded to inside of shroud. Includes: New hall
effect PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor, aluminum spacer, thermal paste and
mounting screws, trigger screw w/magnet and protective rubber washer, new
high energy compact 3.5 ohm coil w/mounting hardware and wire connectors,
and plug for the points pushrod hole. $121.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
Kit With New Full Size canister Ignition Coil. Includes: New hall
effect PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor, aluminum spacer, thermal paste and
mounting screws, trigger screw w/magnet and protective rubber washer, new
full size 3.0 ohm coil with wire connectors, and plug for the points pushrod
hole. $121.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Please let me know which kit you need and I'll give
you the total amount with shipping and payment options.
|
Replacement PerTronix
Ignitor hall effect module/sensor with black and red wires. IMPORTANT:
Must be used with a minimum 3.0 ohm coil or module will burn up.
Click here to learn
how to check the ohms resistance in a coil.
IMPORTANT
-The module/sensor will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more
than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly
happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a
master disconnect switch with a removable
key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition
system. Use with small magnet in aluminum rotating disc
or small steel screw w/ring magnet (below) fastened on edge of flywheel to
trigger the spark. $75.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Detectable Steel Target Screw
w/Magnet and Protective Rubber Washer for Custom Flywheel-Trigger Electronic
Ignition Systems. Fasten on edge of flywheel or rotating disc to trigger
the spark when using a 3-wire hall effect proximity sensor or PerTronix Ignitor
hall effect module/sensor to trigger the spark. 8-32 UNF x 1/2" length hardened
steel Phillips head screw.
Click/tap here to learn
how to professionally cut new threads. Weighs about 1/10 oz. / 2 grams.
NOTE: The rubber washer prevents the high strength but delicate and brittle
magnet from possibly breaking when the screw is tightened to the uneven or
rough casting on the flywheel. IMPORTANT: To prevent from possibly loosening,
secure screw in flywheel or rotating disc with
high strength liquid threadlocker
(Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent). Tighten
screw just when the rubber begin to bulge, and allow the Loctite to dry and
harden overnight. The PerTronix Ignitor hall effect module/sensor is activated
by the South pole of the magnet, so do not remove the magnet from the screw!
An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller because nobody else advertise
this type of product. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this
kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.)
$10.00 each, plus shipping
& handling. Please let me know if you're interested
in purchasing this item and I'll give you the total amount with shipping
and payment options. |
Click here
to contact A-1 Miller's for FREE honest and accurate technical support and/or
for ordering information and payment options. Please contact A-1
Miller's
if you need a part or parts,
or service performed that's not listed or mentioned in this
website. [Top of Page]
 |
If a Kohler flywheel has no projection (hump) or large bolt head for Breakerless
Ignition, but does have a 3/4" wide area between the fins and ring gear (as
shown in the photos above È), or a billet
steel flywheel, to use a magnetic pickup coil, 3-wire inductive (detects
iron/steel) proximity sensor, a small, short steel Phillips or button head
socket (Allen) Head screw and a minimum 1/4" length aluminum spacer secured
with a split lock washer or
high strength liquid threadlocker
(Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent) can be
used as the signal detection for the flywheel-trigger electronic ignition.
A steel dowel pin or knurled steel pin could be used instead of a screw or
spiral pin, but because of exerted centrifugal force, the screw would be
more secure due to its thread retention. FYI - Store a container of liquid
threadlocker or Super Glue upright and not laying flat. The capped tip will
not dry out and clog when stored upright.
The curvature or dome shaped heads of button- and Phillips-head screws makes
them ideal for use on a trigger disc or flywheel. Spark occurs at the leading
(high side) edge of the hump or screw, and not in the center of the hump
or screw. When the magnetic pickup coil or cube-shaped proximity sensor is
at the leading edge of the hump and when the S mark on the flywheel
is aligned with the raised line on the bearing plate, it is at this point
the timing is at 20º BTDC. But if the flywheel has the 3/4" wide area,
but no projection (hump) or large bolt head, with the magnetic pickup coil
or cube-shaped proximity sensor installed on the bearing plate and the 20º
BTDC mark on the flywheel aligned with the raised line on the bearing plate.
When using an inductive proximity sensor, being proximity sensors detect
a farther distance (up to 3/16") than a magnetic pickup coil, install a 3/4"
length steel screw with a 1/4" length aluminum spacer (to retain flywheel
balance). This will extend the detectable target 1/4" above the surface of
the flywheel to prevent an out of time spark occurrence by part of the flywheel
itself. Or if using a non-magnetic pickup coil, 3-wire hall effect proximity
sensor or a hall effect PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor, a small ring magnet
fastened by a small screw can be used to create a rotating magnet detection
target. The head of the screw will become magnetized.
An 8-32 UNC or 10-32 UNF x 1/2" length screws with a split lock washer (and
small magnet) only weighs about 1/10 of an ounce or 2.8 grams, so this will
not make the flywheel significantly noticeably or dangerously out of balance.
But if you're concerned about the flywheel being out of balance with the
trigger screw/bolt, pin or screw w/ring magnet installed, the flywheel can
be static balanced by weighing the flywheel and screw/bolt, pin or screw
w/ring magnet separately on a precision scale, make a note of the exact weight
of each item, and either install a stainless steel screw of the same exact
weight as the trigger screw and magnet on the opposite side of the flywheel
(180º apart), or drill a couple of shallow holes into the flywheel next
to or beside the installed trigger screw/bolt, pin or screw w/ring magnet
to put the flywheel back in balance. Make sure the flywheel is perfectly
clean of dirt and debris, too. Actually, it's best to have the flywheel with
the trigger screw/bolt, pin or screw w/ring magnet installed dynamically
precision spin-balanced on a automotive balancing machine. Again, make sure
the flywheel is perfectly clean of dirt and debris.
And for the ignition timing to be set at 20º BTDC, with the
S mark on the flywheel and raised line on the bearing plate
aligned, the screw will need to be located at 2-3/8" when using a magnetic
pickup coil or proximity sensor. This setup can be adapted to a Kohler engine
with the flywheel that has the starter/generator and gear starter alike.
Or it can be applied to an engine with a steel flywheel for competition pulling.
And the mounting holes in the angled bracket for the magnetic pickup coil
can be elongated for precise adjustment/setting of the timing.
If there's already a projection (hump) or
large bolt head on the flywheel, then there's no need to modify the flywheel
for this conversion or upgrade. If they're not already present, new 10-24
UNC threads will need to be
drilled
and tapped in the two raised bosses in the bearing plate to mount
the bracket for the sensor's bracket. An original, ingenious, thoroughly
researched and innovative concept invented by Brian Miller, because nobody
else advertise this for use on a small engine. Please accept no advertised
copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my
ingenuity and intelligence.)
Information About
Converting from Kohler's [Failed] Breakerless Ignition to a Custom-Made
Electronic Ignition System or a Battery-Powered Points/Condenser Ignition
System | [Top of Page]
The wire that connects from the stator to the
Kohler Breakerless Ignition Trigger Module or Tecumseh Solid State Ignition
Module generates about 250 volts (seriously) while the engine is running
at full governed speed. (Seriously; I tested it with a voltmeter.) Do not
touch this wire/terminal with one bare hand and the engine itself with your
other hand while the engine is running! Electrical shock or electrocution
could result. This wire is not required with any of A-1 Miller's custom-made
flywheel-trigger electronic ignition systems. So snip off this wire or tape
up the terminal.
There is a tiny brass cup/expansion plug in the points pushrod hole. This
plug MUST be removed for using the pushrod when converting to points ignition.
To prevent damage to certain moving parts inside the engine and possible
eventual engine failure, do not punch this plug into the crankcase! It may
NOT drain out with the oil when the oil is changed. To remove this plug,
carefully and gently drill a 3/32" pilot hole through the plug, then use
a #6
self-tapping drywall screw (a small
ordinary self-tapping screw may not work as well)
with Vise-Grips or a small
crowbar or
pry bar to pull the plug out of the hole. Because the
self-tapping drywall screw by itself may not be able to bore a hole through
the plug without pushing it deeper into the drilled hole. And do not force
the drill bit into the plug or it could fall inside the crankcase! And a
3/16" drill bit or hand reamer may need to be used to clean out any debris
from the pushrod hole. After the points is installed, and with the piston
positioned at TDC on the compression stroke, set the point gap at .020".
Or better yet, set the ignition timing at 20º BTDC,
and reuse the same type of spark plug gapped at .035".
Custom-Made Electronic Ignition Kits (below) for Converting to
Flywheel-Trigger Ignition for Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321, K341,
K361 that came with points/condenser ignition or with Breakerless Ignition.
Do away with the old fashioned points and condenser ignition, or defective
and cost-prohibitive Breakerless Ignition components, and convert your engine
to the reliability, dependability and durability of flywheel-trigger ignition!
NOTE: Engine must have the large bearing plate
with two mounting bosses to install the triggering device and 9" flywheel
with 3/4" wide area with the projection (hump) or large bolt head, or install
a small screw/bolt (so the sensor can detect it). Must
also use an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security
purposes; for ignition) and momentary push-button switch (to crank the engine)
for ignition system below Ê. With this
ignition setup, the ignition timing will be set at 20º BTDC, and reuse
same type of spark plug, but set gap at .035" for a stronger spark.

Option #1 - Complete Kit
to Convert from [a failed] OEM Kohler Breakerless Ignition to the More Reliable
A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition System. Designed
for Kohler engine models K181, K241, K301 and K321 that originally came with
Breakerless Ignition, because these have the projection (hump) or large bolt
head on the edge of the flywheel. This ignition system works flawlessly
and may outlast the life of the engine. This high performance ignition system
have been thoroughly tested under extreme conditions, and produces a stable
and very strong spark with the use of
microelectronics, even with a stock ignition coil (the
30,000 volt Bosch blue coil is not needed with this system), allowing the
engine to start quickly, idle smoothly and rev up to full speed. It will
allow the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly, rev up to full RPM with
no hesitation or misfire and produce more power. With this custom ignition
system, the timing will never change. This ignition system may outlast the
life of the engine. All replacement ignition parts are readily available.
This revolutionizes the ignition system for older cast iron block Kohler
engines! NOTE - Being this ignition system requires 12 volts DC negative
ground, the OEM key switch for Breakerless Ignition will not work with any
battery-powered ignition systems. The switch used with Breakerless Ignition
is actually a magneto ignition switch, which when the engine is shut-down,
it grounds the self-energizing wire connected to the ignition system. And
battery ignition requires a switch that disconnects the coil from the power
source (battery). So with this ignition system, you will need either an
OFF-ON-START battery-powered ignition key switch, or an OFF-ON toggle/flip
switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition)
and a momentary push button switch (to crank the engine).
Go here for choice of switches. To install this
replacement ignition system; the ignition coil mounts in place of the Breakerless
Ignition coil; the proximity cube sensor/bracket mounts in place of the
Breakerless Trigger Module; and the GM 4-pin HEI ignition control module
with
thermal paste (to dissipate normal operating heat)
can be fastened on the backside of the bearing plate, on the left side when
facing the flywheel, or on an aluminum plate mounted elsewhere with plenty
of cool, circulating air to dissipate the heat and cool the unit while in
operation. Two 9/64" holes will need to be drilled and tapped to mount the
module. (Sometimes one must improvise when certain parts are obsolete.) This
kit has a limited one year warranty. Scroll down to read the wiring connection
instructions or
click/tap
here to print out the wiring diagram and wiring connection instructions.
This is a thoroughly researched and ingenious concept by Brian Miller. Video
of this ignition system installed on a running engine coming soon. Contact
Brian Miller for free installation tech support.
IMPORTANT: Most failures of a battery-powered
ignition coils and/or electronic ignition control modules are caused by either
the use of suppression/carbon-core spark plug wire(s), resistor-type spark
plug(s), or overcharging of the electrical system due to a defective voltage
rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery. Therefore, if it's
not already equipped, it's best to install an
ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging
system. Also, any coil will burn
up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than
a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly
happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a
master disconnect switch with a removable
key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system.
Also, the coil could burn up if the
charging system continually overcharge due to a defective voltage
rectifier/regulator or a defective [automotive]
battery.
List of Parts in Kit Includes:
-
New high output cube-shaped 3-wire inductive proximity sensor w/mounting
adapter and two Allen head mounting screws w/lock washers.
-
New high quality GM 4-pin HEI electronic ignition control module w/packet
of
thermal paste and
two 8-32 UNC x 5/16" hex head
self-threading screws (not self-tapping).
-
One 3/16" and three 1/4" slip-on crimp wire connectors (for module), three
3/16" ring crimp wire connectors (for ignition coil and ground W terminal
on module), and two nylon wire clamps (loops) to secure wires in place.
-
New 12 volt canister ignition coil w/mounting bracket/clamp.
-
New 10" or 13" length metal core spark plug wire. IMPORTANT - Due
to length of spark plug wire, please indicate if original coil is mounted
next to carburetor (10" length) or above starter motor (13"
length).
-
New Autolite 216 or Champion 844 (H10C) spark plug. Set spark plug gap at
.035" with this system.
Installation Instructions:
Click/tap
here to print out the wiring diagram and installation/wiring connection
instructions.
-
Fasten the cube-shaped proximity sensor on the two bosses that's on the bearing
plate with the supplied Allen head screws and split lock washers. If there
are no threaded holes in the bosses, drill with a 5/32" bit, and cut 10-24
UNC threads in the bosses. Route the insulated wires on the sensor through
the hole in the bearing plate.
Click/tap here to learn
how to professionally cut new threads.
-
Mounting of module requires
two 9/64" drilled holes. To install module behind bearing plate, use a
close quarters power drill or use an ordinary 3/8" power
drill with a custom-made 7" length x 3/8" diameter drill bit extension with
a 9/64" drilled end hole and two Allen set screws to secure the 9/64" drill
bit. (As shown to the right.) If engine is equipped with a mechanical fuel
pump, it will need to be removed for installation of the module, then reinstalled
afterwards.
-
Use the two supplied 8-32 UNC x 5/16" hex head self-threading screws to fasten
HEI module with the supplied dielectric grease between the module onto back
of bearing plate or an aluminum plate with cool circulating air to dissipate
the operating heat. Mounting holes in module body must be grounded to
engine/chassis ground (battery negative () post).
-
Connect the BLACK
wire on the sensor to the [G] terminal on the module.
-
Connect the BLUE wire on the sensor to
the [W] terminal on the module and to engine/chassis ground (battery
negative () post). NOTE: The [W] terminal on the module does
not need to be connected to anything, but the
blue wire on the proximity sensor must be
grounded.
-
Connect the ignition coil negative () terminal to the [C] terminal
on the module. For competition pulling - if the grounding-type killswitch
is used, connect the ungrounded wire from the killswitch to this terminal.
Or for a generator engine, connect this terminal with a semiconductor rectifier
diode to "excite" or temporarily energize the field windings in the
generator.
-
Connect the BROWN wire on the sensor
to the [B] terminal on the module, and to the ignition coil positive
(+) terminal and to the ignition switch (battery positive (+) post).
-
The cube-shaped proximity sensor has a built-in LED (Light Emitting Diode).
If the proximity sensor is wired correctly, the LED will illuminate when
in close proximity to the detectable target.
-
Complete Ignition Kit listed above without any switches. (Customer supplies
own switches.) $150.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
-
Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON toggle/flip ignition switch
and momentary push button switch (to crank the engine). $165.00 per kit,
plus shipping & handling.
-
Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON pull-push ignition switch
and momentary push button switch (to crank the engine). $165.00 per kit,
plus shipping & handling.
-
Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON rotary ignition key switch
(for security reasons) and momentary push button switch (to crank the engine).
$251.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
-
Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON-START battery-powered rotary
ignition key switch. $165.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
-
Please let me know which kit you need and I'll give
you the total amount with shipping and payment options.
Option #2 - Complete Kit to Convert from [a failed] OEM Kohler Breakerless
Ignition to the More Reliable Battery-Powered Points and Condenser Ignition
System with a Full Size canister 12 Volt Ignition Coil. Designed for Kohler
engine models K181, K241, K301, K321 that originally came with Breakerless
Ignition. New parts include: 12 volt 3.0 ohm full size canister ignition
coil w/mounting bracket, metal core conductor spark plug wire, medium capacity
condenser/capacitor, ignition points, stainless steel points pushrod, points
cover, points cover gasket, four 10-24 UNC Phillips head screws w/lock washers,
Autolite 216 or Champion 844 (H10C) spark plug, and 12" cut-to-length #16
gauge (AWG) coil-to-points wire w/terminals and points cover/wire grommet.
IMPORTANT - Due to length of spark plug wire, please indicate if
original coil is mounted next to carburetor (10" length) or above starter
gear (13" length). Set spark plug gap at .035" with this system.
NOTE - Being this ignition system requires 12 volts DC negative ground,
the OEM key switch for Breakerless Ignition will not work with any
battery-powered ignition systems. The switch used with Breakerless Ignition
is actually a magneto ignition switch, which when the engine is shut-down,
it grounds the self-energizing wire connected to the ignition. And battery
ignition requires a switch that disconnects the coil from the power source
(battery). So with this ignition system, you will need either an OFF-ON-START
battery-powered ignition key switch, or an OFF-ON toggle switch or an OFF-ON
key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition) and a momentary
push button switch (to crank the engine). Go here for
choice of switches. IMPORTANT: Most failures
of a battery-powered ignition coils and/or electronic ignition control modules
are caused by either the use of suppression/carbon-core spark plug wire(s),
resistor-type spark plug(s), or overcharging of the electrical system due
to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery.
Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an
ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging
system. Also, any coil will burn
up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than
a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly
happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a
master disconnect switch with a removable
key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system.
Also, the coil could burn up if the
charging system continually overcharge due to a defective voltage
rectifier/regulator or a defective [automotive]
battery.
-
Complete Ignition Kit listed above without any switches. (Customer supplies
own switches.) $93.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
-
Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON toggle/flip ignition switch
and momentary push button switch (to crank the engine). $108.50 per kit,
plus shipping & handling.
-
Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON rotary ignition key switch
and momentary push button switch (to crank the engine). $120.50 per kit,
plus shipping & handling.
-
Complete Ignition Kit listed above with an OFF-ON-START battery-powered
rotary ignition key switch. $150.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
-
Please let me know which kit you need and I'll give
you the total amount with shipping and payment options.
|
Click here
to contact A-1 Miller's for FREE honest and accurate technical support and/or
for ordering information and payment options. Please contact A-1
Miller's
if you need a part or parts,
or service performed that's not listed or mentioned in this
website. [Top of Page]

3/16" Steel Plug to Replace Kohler Ignition Points
Pushrod. Use in Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181,
K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, K482, K532 and K582 when converting from magneto
to solid state ignition (listed above), Magnum solid state ignition, A-1
Miller's flywheel- or
crank-trigger electronic ignition (further
down in this website). Remove the points cover, ignition points and pushrod,
and install this plug in the pushrod hole (to prevent major oil leakage)
with a medium size hammer; fits very tight. No need to reinstall cover and
points. NOTE: The alternative to using this plug is to remove the ignition
points and points pushrod, and place the pushrod on a hard, flat surface,
and use a hammer and sharp flat cold chisel to lightly create knurled raised
marks midway on the pushrod. Then reinstall the knurled pushrod in the engine
block with the hammer. Or a
20 penny common nail cut off to 1/2" length and the end
ground to a bevel will serve the same purpose. The knurling will retain the
pushrod in the hole. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller.
Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate
them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.)
OEM Briggs & Stratton part
#'s 231143, 692882. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
[Return to previous paragraph, section
or website]
A-1 Miller's Custom-Made
Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition Conversion Kits for Kohler opposed twin
cylinder engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design)
and KT19 Series II, except generator engines | [Top
of Page]
A-1 Miller's Custom-Made
Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit for Kohler opposed twin
cylinder engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design)
and KT19 Series II, and perhaps Magnum engines with the KT-series flywheel
installed, except generator engines. These type of ignition system is
very reliable, works flawlessly and, may outlast and extend the life of the
engine. Replaces points and condenser. This high performance ignition system
have been thoroughly tested under extreme conditions, and produces a stable
and very strong spark with the use of
microelectronics, even with the stock OEM canister ignition
coil, allowing the engine to start quickly, idle smoothly and rev up to full
RPM with no hesitation or misfire to produce more power. This revolutionizes
the ignition system for the opposed twin cylinder Kohler engines! With points
(and condenser) ignition, the factory setting for the timing on these engines
is 23º BTDC. Being the points is operated off the camshaft, and being
there's slight free-play/clearance between the gear teeth on the camshaft
and crankshaft (which is normal), the ignition timing can fluctuate a few
degrees, resulting in slight loss of engine power. And sometimes the lobe
for the points pushrod on the cam will wear, which will make setting the
timing at full 23º BTDC impossible, which will also cause the engine
to lose power. (Both of these are confirmed in the official Kohler KT17,
KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II service manual.) And with a worn
points lobe, the entire engine will need to be completely disassembled to
replace the camshaft. This custom-made electronic ignition system maintains
the timing at 23º BTDC at all times because it operates off the flywheel,
which is driven by the crankshaft. With this custom ignition system, the
timing will never change. It works the same as crank trigger ignition. The
OEM Kohler [4.0 ohm] opposed twin cylinder canister ignition coil works excellent
with this ignition module/sensor to produce a very strong spark. To prevent
burning up the PerTronix Ignitor module, it MUST be used with a coil having
a minimum of 3.0 ohm resistance. An ingenious and innovative concept by
Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind.
(But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.)
NOTE: If your engine is hard to start,
looses power and dies when hot, and restarts when cooled, and repeats this
over and over, then chances are, it needs a
professional valve job
performed and valve clearances
reset to factory specs. Because installing electronic ignition will not fix
a faulty valve problem. Please contact
A-1
Miller's if you're interested
in having a professional valve job performed on your KT17 (first design),
KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20
and MV20 cylinders/jugs or entire engine.
Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit below specifically made for KT17 first
design and KT19 first design engines. Kit includes: New PerTronix Ignitor
hall effect module/sensor fastened on adjustable/slotted aluminum mounting
plate, two 10-24 UNC screws w/flat washers and lock washers, two aluminum
spacers, target screw w/magnet and rubber washer (prevents the delicate
magnet from possibly breaking when screw is tightened due to the uneven rough
casting on the flywheel), two new Autolite 26 or Champion 25 (RV17YC)
spark plugs, and points pushrod hole block-off plate (use with silicone sealant).
Use this ignition system with the OEM off-ignition-start key switch and dual
wire ignition coil. All replacement ignition parts are readily available.
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS for KT17 first design and KT19 first design
engines. This option can also be used on the KT17 Series II and KT19 Series
II engines, and perhaps Magnum engines with the KT-series flywheel
installed. Video of this ignition system installed on a running engine
coming soon. Scroll down to read the wiring connection instructions or
click here to view and print out these
installation instructions.
-
 Use a
Sharpie metallic silver permanent marker to locate and
install the trigger screw w/magnet
and rubber washer on the flat area on the flywheel above the T mark
as shown in the photo to the right. This will place the ignition timing in
alignment with the center of the PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor when the
S mark on the flywheel is in exact alignment with the roll
pin on the cylinder (which is positioned at 23º BTDC). The screw head
is magnetized to trigger the spark. There is no need to remove the flywheel
to drill and tap the threads to accept the supplied 6-32 UNC trigger screw.
Click/tap here to learn
how to professionally cut new threads. To prevent from possibly breaking
off drill bit or tap, secure the flywheel so it does not rotate one way or
the other while drilling hole and/or cutting threads! NOTE: The rubber
washer prevents the high strength but delicate and brittle magnet from possibly
breaking when the screw is tightened to the uneven or rough casting on the
flywheel. IMPORTANT: To prevent from possibly loosening, secure screw in
flywheel or rotating disc with
high strength liquid threadlocker
(Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent). Tighten
screw just when the rubber begin to bulge, and allow the Loctite to dry and
harden overnight. The PerTronix Ignitor hall effect module/sensor is activated
by the South pole of the magnet, so do not remove the magnet from the screw!
FYI - Store a container of liquid threadlocker or Super Glue upright and
not laying flat. The capped tip will not dry out and clog when stored
upright.
-
Being there are no two bosses
on the cooling fins of the #1 cylinder (right side of engine when facing
the flywheel) of the KT17 first design and KT19 first design engines, use
the side casting of the valve spring compartment on the #1 cylinder facing
the flywheel to mount the PerTronix Ignitor mounting plate and two
posts/supports. See the
[mock up] photo in this section.
-
On the #1 cylinder, remove the crankcase breather assembly and plug the crankcase
breather vent hole leading into the crankcase. This will prevent drill
cuttings from entering into the crankcase, which could cause severe engine
wear overtime.
-
Locate in the general area of the valve spring compartment where to drill
and tap two 10-24 UNC screw holes spaced 1" apart (to match adjustment slots
in the PerTronix Ignitor mounting plate) with a [preferably]
TAPER hand tap for
fastening the PerTronix Ignitor mounting plate and two posts/supports. If
a
T-shaped tap wrench is used, there will be no need to remove
the flywheel to do this.
Click here to learn
how to professionally cut new threads. See the
[mock up] photo in this section.
-
When the new threads are made, thoroughly clear out the metal cuttings from
inside the valve spring compartment with 150± PSI compressed air.
Failure to do this could cause excessive wear
to the internal engine parts! Be sure to use eye
protection! Then be sure to remove the plug from the crankcase vent hole.
-
After fastening the PerTronix Ignitor mounting plate and two posts/supports
to the side of the valve spring compartment, set the clearance between the
module/sensor and trigger screw w/magnet and rubber washer at .010"-.050"
with a paper, plastic or brass feeler gauge, and securely tighten the two
supplied 3/16" screws with lock washers to the valve spring compartment.
IMPORTANT:
Slowly rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand to check that the screw
doesn't make contact with module/sensor. If it makes contact, the module
could get damaged! On rare occasions, being the casting
of the valve spring compartment may be a different width, the mounting plate
itself may make contact with the side of the ring gear on the flywheel. If
this happens, a couple of thin washers (shims) will be need to be installed
under the two posts/supports to allow for sufficient clearance.
-
Simple two wire connections: Connect the
RED wire on the module to the positive
[+] terminal on the ignition coil (which connects to the ignition switch
and positive (+) battery post), and connect the BLACK wire to the
negative () terminal on the coil. There are no other wire(s) that connect
to the negative () terminal on the coil. The module/sensor is grounded
through the engine to the negative () battery post.
IMPORTANT:
The module/sensor will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more
than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly
happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a
master disconnect switch with a removable
key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition
system.
-
Remove the points, pushrod (and condenser) and install the block-off plate
to cover the points pushrod hole. Apply RTV silicone sealant to prevent oil
leak and use the OEM ignition points mounting screws to secure the block-off
plate in place.
-
A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition Kit for
Kohler engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design)
and KT19 Series II. $185.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Please
let me know if you're interested in purchasing this
kit and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options.
Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit below specifically made for KT17 Series
II and KT19 Series II engines (and perhaps Magnum engines with the KT-series
flywheel installed). Kit includes: New PerTronix Ignitor hall effect
module/sensor fastened on aluminum mounting plate and square steel tubing,
two 1/4" x 1-1/2" length grade 8 bolts w/lock washers, target screw w/magnet
and rubber washer (prevents the delicate magnet from possibly breaking
when screw is tightened due to the uneven rough casting on the flywheel),
two Autolite 26 or Champion 25 (RV17YC) spark plugs, and points pushrod hole
block-off plate (use with silicone sealant). Use this ignition system with
the OEM off-ignition-start key switch and dual wire ignition coil. All
replacement ignition parts are readily available.
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS of the module/sensor specifically for KT17 Series
II and KT19 Series II engines, (and perhaps Magnum engines with the KT-series
flywheel installed) - Video of this ignition system installed on a
running engine coming soon.
-
Use a
Sharpie metallic silver permanent marker to locate and
install the trigger screw w/magnet
and rubber washer on the flat area on the flywheel above the T mark
as shown in the photo to the right. This will place the ignition timing in
alignment with the center of the PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor when the
S mark on the flywheel is in exact alignment with the roll
pin on the cylinder (which is positioned at 23º BTDC). The screw head
is magnetized to trigger the spark. There is no need to remove the flywheel
to drill and tap the threads. The screw hole must be professionally drilled
and tapped to accept the supplied 6-32 UNC trigger screw.
Click here to learn
how to professionally cut new threads. To prevent breaking off drill
bit or tap, secure the flywheel so it does not rotate one way or the other
while drilling hole and/or cutting threads! NOTE: The rubber washer
prevents the high strength but delicate and brittle magnet from possibly
breaking when the screw is tightened to the uneven or rough casting on the
flywheel. IMPORTANT: To prevent from possibly loosening, secure screw in
flywheel or rotating disc with
high strength liquid threadlocker
(Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent). Tighten
screw just when the rubber begin to bulge, and allow the Loctite to dry and
harden overnight. The PerTronix Ignitor hall effect module/sensor is activated
by the South pole of the magnet, so do not remove the magnet from the screw!
FYI - Store a container of liquid threadlocker or Super Glue upright and
not laying flat. The capped tip will not dry out and clog when stored
upright.
-
Use the two bosses on the #1
cylinder to mount the bracket with the ignition module/sensor. Being there
are no bolt holes in the bosses, the center of each boss must be professionally
drilled and tapped to accept the supplied 1/4-20 UNC x 1-1/2" length grade
8 bolts with split lock washers.
Click/tap here to learn
how to professionally cut new threads.
IMPORTANT! Drill only 3/4" deep; do not drill
all the way through the cylinder wall! To guarantee the 3/4" depth, use a
drill stop (small locking collar) secured at the 3/4"
depth.
Click here to learn
how to professionally cut new threads. There is no need to remove the
flywheel to do this. See the
[mock up] animated photo to the right.->
-
After mounting the bracket with the module/sensor, set the clearance between
the module/sensor and trigger screw w/magnet and rubber washer at .010"-.050"
with a paper, plastic or brass feeler gauge, then securely tighten the two
1/4" bolts in the bosses. Slowly rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand
to check that the screw doesn't make contact with module/sensor.
Do not allow the screw in the flywheel make contact
with the module/sensor at any time because it could get
damaged!
-
Simple two wire hook-up: contact the
RED wire on the module to the positive
[+] terminal on the ignition coil, and connect the BLACK wire to the
negative () terminal on the coil. The module/sensor is grounded through
the engine.
IMPORTANT
- The module/sensor will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more
than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly
happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a
master disconnect switch with a removable
key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition
system.
-
Remove the points, pushrod (and condenser) and install the block-off plate
to cover the points pushrod hole. Apply RTV silicone sealant to prevent oil
leak and use the OEM ignition points mounting screws to secure the block-off
plate in place.
-
A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition Kit for
Kohler engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design)
and KT19 Series II. $185.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Please
let me know if you're interested in purchasing this
kit and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options.
|
Replacement PerTronix
Ignitor hall effect module/sensor with black and red wires. IMPORTANT:
Must be used with a minimum 3.0 ohm coil or module will burn up.
Click here to learn
how to check the ohms resistance in a coil.
IMPORTANT
- The module/sensor will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more
than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly
happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a
master disconnect switch with a removable
key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition
system. Use with small magnet in aluminum rotating disc
or small steel screw w/ring magnet (below) fastened on edge of flywheel to
trigger the spark. $75.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Please
let me know if you're interested in purchasing this
part and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options.
Detectable Steel Target Screw
w/Magnet and Protective Rubber Washer for Custom Flywheel-Trigger Electronic
Ignition Systems. Fasten on edge of flywheel or rotating disc to trigger
the spark when using a 3-wire hall effect proximity sensor or PerTronix Ignitor
hall effect module/sensor to trigger the spark. 8-32 UNF x 1/2" length hardened
steel Phillips head screw.
Click/tap here to learn
how to professionally cut new threads. Weighs about 1/10 oz. / 2 grams.
NOTE: The rubber washer prevents the high strength but delicate and brittle
magnet from possibly breaking when the screw is tightened to the uneven or
rough casting on the flywheel. IMPORTANT: To prevent from possibly loosening,
secure screw in flywheel or rotating disc with
high strength liquid threadlocker
(Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent). Tighten
screw just when the rubber begin to bulge, and allow the Loctite to dry and
harden overnight. The PerTronix Ignitor hall effect module/sensor is activated
by the South pole of the magnet, so do not remove the magnet from the screw!
An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller because nobody else advertise
this type of product. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this
kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.)
$10.00 each, plus shipping
& handling. Please let me know if you're interested
in purchasing this item and I'll give you the total amount with shipping
and payment options. |
Click here
to contact A-1 Miller's for FREE honest and accurate technical support and/or
for ordering information and payment options. Please contact A-1
Miller's
if you need a part or parts,
or service performed that's not listed or mentioned in this
website. [Top of Page]
A-1 Miller's Custom-Made
Replacement Electronic Ignition Kit for Tecumseh Cast Iron Block
Engines | [Top of Page]
A-1 Miller's Custom-Made, Reliable
and Maintenance-Free Replacement Electronic Ignition Kit for Tecumseh engine
models VH80, VH100, HH80, HH100, HH120, OH120, OH140, OH150, OH160 and OH180
with a gear starter that have a failed OEM Solid State Ignition Module
as shown to the right. This will NOT work on a Tecumseh engine with a
starter/generator because there are no protruding pins on the edge of the
flywheel to trigger the spark. Works great for lawn & garden, and
generator/welder engines! This ignition system works flawlessly and may outlast
the life of the engine. This replacement ignition system installs in place
of the OEM Tecumseh Solid State Ignition (SSI) module unit and is completely
hidden under the flywheel shroud from outside view, with only one wire
connection. This high performance ignition system have been thoroughly tested
under extreme conditions, and produces a stable and very strong spark with
the use of
microelectronics, even with the
compact epoxy-encapsulated 12 volt armature ignition
coil as shown in the photos, allowing the engine to start quickly, idle
smoothly, rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or misfire. Epoxy molding
makes the module/sensor and coil impervious to dirt, oil, grease and moisture.
This ignition system may outlast the life of the engine. This revolutionizes
the ignition system for older cast iron block Tecumseh engines! All replacement
ignition parts are readily available. NOTE - Being this ignition system
requires 12 volts DC negative ground, the OEM key switch for the Tecumseh
Solid State Ignition (SSI) will not work with any battery-powered ignition
systems. The OEM switch used with SSI is actually for magneto ignition, which
when the engine is shut-down, it grounds the self-energizing wire connected
to the SSI ignition. And battery ignition requires a switch that disconnects
the power source from the ignition. So with this ignition system, you will
need either an OFF-ON-START battery-powered ignition key switch, or an OFF-ON
toggle/flip switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; to power
the ignition) and a momentary push button switch (to crank the engine).
Go here for choice of switches. Limited one year
warranty. Actual photo of ignition system shown above. An ingenious and
innovative concept by Brian Miller because nobody else advertise this type
of custom-made ignition system. Video of this ignition system installed on
a running engine coming soon. Please accept no advertised copycat
products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity
and intelligence.)
IMPORTANT: Most failures of a battery-powered
ignition coils and/or electronic ignition control modules are caused by either
the use of suppression/carbon-core spark plug wire(s), resistor-type spark
plug(s), or overcharging of the electrical system due to a defective voltage
rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery. Therefore, if it's
not already equipped, it's best to install an
ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging
system. Also, any coil will burn
up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than
a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly
happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a
master disconnect switch with a removable
key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system.
Also, the coil could burn up if the
charging system continually overcharge due to a defective voltage
rectifier/regulator or a defective [automotive]
battery.
Replacement Tecumseh Electronic Ignition Kit with PerTronix Ignitor. (Fires
off the short pin in the flywheel; remove the long pin. It will not be needed
and will interfere with proper operation of the ignition system.) This
ignition system requires 12 volts DC negative ground. Includes: new PerTronix
Ignitor module/sensor and new high quality, high energy compact
epoxy-encapsulated 12 volt armature ignition coil w/integrated metal spark
plug wire, both fastened to an aluminum mounting plate, new Autolite 295
or Champion J8C spark plug, new momentary push-button switch (to crank the
engine; optional) and new OFF-ON toggle/flip switch/flip switch or [security]
key switch (to power the ignition; optional).
Installation Instructions for Replacement Tecumseh Electronic Ignition
System listed above | Click/tap
here to print out the installation and wiring instructions for this
system.
-
The PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor detects and fires off ONLY the short
pin in the flywheel so the engine will run right and produce full power.
Therefore, remove or drive down the long pin until it's flush with the surface
of the flywheel. FYI - I've done a lot of research on this and the long
pin MUST be absent for this ignition system to work right!
-
Set air gap/clearance between firing pin and module/sensor at .010"-.050"
with a paper, plastic or brass (anything non-magnetic) feeler gauge, then
securely tighten the mounting fasteners.
IMPORTANT - Gently rotate the flywheel
back and forth by hand to check to check that the module/sensor does not
make contact with the firing pin. Do not allow the module/sensor to make
contact with the pin while the engine is running!
-
If necessary, shorten the spark plug wire (don't make it too short!), and
install the terminal and spark plug boot. Install terminal first. Make
sure the pointed prong on the terminal penetrates the insulation of the wire,
or strip a short part of the insulation and bend over the wire to make full
connect with the terminal, and use a
spark plug wire crimping tool, then apply automotive grease
on the spark plug wire and inside boot so it will slide easily on the wire
and over the terminal.
-
Set the spark plug gap at .030".
I offer these custom-made electronic ignition kit options:
-
Replacement Tecumseh Electronic Ignition System with OFF-ON toggle/flip
ignition switch and momentary push-button switch (to crank engine) $195.00
per kit, plus shipping & handling.
-
Replacement Tecumseh Electronic Ignition System with OFF-ON rotary ignition
key switch (to power ignition) and momentary push-button switch (to crank
engine) $240.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
-
Replacement Tecumseh Electronic Ignition System listed above without any
switches. (Customer supplies own switches.) $175.00 per kit, plus
shipping & handling.
-
Please let me know which kit you need and I'll give
you the total amount with shipping and payment options.
FYI - I've been to many car races, and truck and tractor pulls through
the years, and I've noticed that when most drivers start their engine, they
would crank it over first with a push-button switch, then flip the ignition
toggle switch on, and the engine would start every time without hesitation.
This is because the engine have a fixed and set in the fully advanced ignition
timing position with no retard, and is (obviously) high compression. Starting
the engine this way prevents it from kicking back, and it prevents damage
to the aluminum starter motor housing. - Brian Miller
FYI - I've been receiving several emails and phone calls from people
who purchased another type of custom-made electronic ignition system from
another source online for their Tecumseh cast iron block engines. If you're
experiencing problems with this other type of ignition, you will need to
complain to the person you purchased it from. Because being I'm not familiar
with the design of another person's custom-made ignition system, the advice
I may give you to get your engine running right may not be 100% accurate.
It'll be like the mechanic of a reputable Chevrolet car dealer/repair shop
trying to tell someone how to fix their poor performing Ford vehicle. By
the way - I thoroughly researched and test every custom-made electronic ignition
system that I offer in my websites on the test engines in my shop to insure
that they work flawlessly, and I have not received any complaints from my
customers so far. - Brian Miller (Posted 8/24/20) |
Click here
to contact A-1 Miller's for FREE honest and accurate technical support and/or
for ordering information and payment options. Please contact A-1
Miller's
if you need a part or parts,
or service performed that's not listed or mentioned in this
website. [Top of Page]
Custom-Made
Reliable and Maintenance-Free Crank-Trigger Electronic Ignition Systems
That Operate Off the PTO End of Virtually Any Older General-Use Small Engine
or Competition Pulling Small Engine - Eliminates Old-Fashioned Points and
Condenser or Troublesome OEM Solid State Ignition
Be
ahead of the pulling competition with 21st century technology using 100%
reliable digital electronic ignition!
Click here
to contact A-1 Miller's for FREE honest and accurate technical support and/or
for ordering information and payment options. Please contact A-1
Miller's
if you need a part or parts,
or service performed that's not listed or mentioned in this
website. [Top of Page]
FYI - I can install any of my custom-made
flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition systems on your older small
gas engine and/or rewire your lawn & garden tractor, equipment or competition
garden pulling tractor so all the electrical accessories will work and if
everything else is in good condition with the engine (compression, carburetion,
etc.), the engine should start quickly, idle well and rev up to its full
potential every time. I have the knowledge, skills, all the tools and parts
necessary to perform a professional job. I've rewired many customer's lawn
& garden tractors, small engine equipment and competition garden pulling
tractors many times with great results. If you're interested,
click/tap here for my contact
information and directions to A-1 Miller's shop. - Brian
Miller
A new way to revolutionize the ignition system on virtually any small gas
engine! Virtually trouble- and maintenance-free, and water-proof. These ignition
modules/sensors is a small, lightweight, compact and completely self-contained
electronic ignition system built with the latest state-of-the-art engineering
with the use of
microelectronics. Fits entirely on the engine block; no
ignition box and additional wiring to clutter the engine compartment because
the electronic ignition control module and pickup coil/sensor are contained
in the same sealed casing. The DynaTek Dyna S module/sensor produce a stable
and very strong spark with the use of
microelectronics. They will allow the engine to start quicker,
idle smoothly, rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or misfire and produce
more power.
These maintenance-free crank-trigger electronic ignition setups have been
thoroughly tested and proven very reliable for general lawn and work, and
all classes of single and opposed twin cylinder competition pulling engines.
One module/sensor is needed for an opposed twin cylinder engine, and two
modules/sensors spaced precisely at 90º apart are required for
V-twin engines. These are the same ignition systems used by professional
pullers everywhere. Reliable at high RPM, the DynaTek Dyna S or PerTronix
Ignitor modules provides unlimited RPM. They will allow the ignition system
to operate at the speed of electricity (which can be anywhere from about
50% to 99% of the speed of light, depending upon the quality of the electronic
components and wiring connections).
Spark occurs when the magnet embedded in an aluminum locking set screw collar
(magnet ring), which is much like an automotive
reluctor
ring, that's fastened on the crankshaft's PTO end passes the module/sensor.
These sensors/modules packs a lot of punch and allows the ignition system
operate at 100% efficiency for a stronger spark. When wired correctly, it's
normal for the flywheel- and crank-trigger ignition systems to make a spark
when first powered up. And if it makes a spark as the sensor passes the metal
target object, then the ignition system is working as it should.
NOTE: With all of my crank-trigger
ignition systems (all listed below), when installed accordingly, the ignition
timing is ALWAYS advanced. If it's set or installed retarded, it will NOT
automatically advance as soon as the engine starts. If the timing is set
retarded, the only way to advance it is by rotating an ignition plate or
ignition distributor manually by hand, or automatically by a vacuum canister
with intake manifold, or by centrifugal force with flyweights.
The DynaTek Dyna S module/sensor operates with 12-1/2 to 15 volts DC negative
ground, and requires an ignition coil with a minimum 3.0 ohm resistor. Using
a coil with less than 3.0 ohm of primary resistance for a long period of
time will cause the module to overheat and the engine may misfire until it
cools down, or the module/sensor might fail prematurely. A metal conductor
spark plug wire and copper core/non-resistor spark plug should be used. If
the voltage drops below the minimum requirement for either module/sensor,
the engine may idle well, but not rev up, or the engine may run erratic.
Either module/sensor can be used with a standard-output/stock or
high-output/performance ignition coil, as long as it has a 3.0 ohm internal
primary resistor, or connected to a ballast resistor, resulting in 3.0 ohm
of resistance.
DynaTek Dyna S Maintenance-Free Crank-Trigger Electronic Ignition Installation
Instructions -

A-1 Miller's universal flat aluminum mounting plate with the
DynaTek Dyna S ignition module/sensor kits can be adapted for use on various
makes and models of one or two cylinder (twin opposing cylinders) small engines.
Being there are so many different bolt patterns on the PTO end of Kohler
and other makes and models of small engines, these are not a simple "one
kit fits all" bolt-on ignition setup. Therefore, customer will need to locate
and drill holes in the mounting plate in alignment with the bolt holes on
the PTO end of the engine block. If there are no bolt hole(s) on the PTO
end of the block, they will need to be drilled and tapped.
Click/tap here to learn
how to professionally cut new threads. For strength and durability, a
minimum of 1/4" bolts (thread size) should be used to fasten mounting plate
to PTO end of engine block. Locate and drill (machine) slotted adjustment
holes in the mounting plate. And then drill and cut 4-40 NC threads in the
mounting plate to fasten the module/sensor. Air gap/clearance between the
module/sensor and locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet is .010"-.050".
Module/sensor may not operate or engine may misfire if gap is wider than
.060". NOTE: Do not allow module/sensor to make
contact with locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet while engine is
running! Click
HERE for custom-made electronic ignition
kits that operate off the flywheel end of the engine. These can be used for
ordinary lawn & garden engines or stock competition pulling
engines.
DynaTek Dyna S Crank Trigger Ignition Kit and Systems for a Single Cylinder
Engine listed below. These ignition systems works flawlessly and may
outlast the life of the engine. These ignition systems operate off the PTO
end of the crankshaft and is mainly for competition pulling engines that
have nothing on the PTO end of the crankshaft. NOTE: Slotted mounting
holes will be machined in the mounting plate. If the bolt holes in the PTO
end of the block don't match the ones in the plate or if bolt holes are not
present, then new bolt holes will need to be drilled and tapped in the engine
block. Click/tap
here to learn how to professionally cut new threads. Can be used on Kohler
10-16hp single or opposed twin cylinder horizontal shaft engines. Set the
clearance between the module and locking collar at .010"-.050".
IMPORTANT - Gently rotate the flywheel
back and forth by hand to check and see that the module does not make contact
with the locking collar. Do not allow the module make contact with the locking
collar while the engine is running!
IMPORTANT
- The module will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than
a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly
happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a
master disconnect switch with a removable
key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system.
-
Crank Trigger Ignition with the DynaTek Dyna S Module/Sensor Fastened
on an Aluminum Mounting Plate, Triggered by an Embedded Magnet in a Locking
Set Screw Collar. Requires 12 volts DC negative ground and an ignition
coil with minimum 3.0 ohms resistance. Mounting plate fastens on the PTO
end of engine block, and coil mounts remotely on side of flywheel shroud
or elsewhere in engine compartment. This high performance ignition system
have been thoroughly tested under extreme conditions, and produces a stable
and very strong spark with the use of
microelectronics, even with a stock 3.0 ohm ignition coil,
allowing the engine to start quickly, idle smoothly and rev up to full RPM
with no hesitation or misfire to produce more power. Ignition coil not included,
purchase separately or customer use their own [minimum 3.0 ohm] ignition
coil. If the wrong coil is used, the module may burn up.
Click here to learn
how to test the ohm resistance of a coil. Simple wiring instructions:
Connect RED wire to coil positive [+]
terminal and to ignition switch (which connects to the positive [+] battery
post), and connect BLACK wire to coil negative () terminal.
The ignition module is grounded to the negative () battery post through
the engine. This ignition setup is shown above. All replacement ignition
parts are readily available. Video of this ignition system installed on
a running engine coming soon. $100.00 per kit, plus shipping &
handling. Please let me know if you're interested
in purchasing this kit and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and
payment options.
-
Self-Contained Crank Trigger
Ignition System with the DynaTek Dyna S Module/Sensor Connected to an
Incorporated High Energy Ignition Coil, Both Fastened on an Aluminum Mounting
Plate, Triggered by an Embedded Magnet in a Locking Set Screw Collar.
Requires 12 volts DC negative ground. Thoroughly tested and proven to
be very reliable. Self-contained and very compact. The high energy armature
ignition coil is fastened above the DynaTek Dyna S module/sensor on the same
aluminum ignition plate. This ignition system operates off the PTO end of
the engine and is mainly for competition pulling engines that have nothing
on the PTO end of the crankshaft. This ignition system "cleans up" the engine
compartment. No remotely-mounted coil or extra wiring needed. Can be mounted
above or on right side of crankshaft. This high performance ignition system
have been thoroughly tested under extreme conditions, and produces a stable
and very strong spark with the use of
microelectronics, even with the compact epoxy-encapsulated
armature ignition coil, allowing the engine to start quickly, idle smoothly
and rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or misfire to produce more power.
The DynaTek Dyna S module/sensor is triggered by a small magnet embedded
in an aluminum locking set screw collar (magnet ring) that's fastened on
the crankshaft. All replacement ignition parts are readily available. Simple
wiring instructions: Customer may have to drill and tap the block to mount
the crank-trigger or modify the bracket if necessary.
Click/tap here to learn
how to professionally cut new threads. Simple wiring connections: Connect
the RED wire to the ignition switch (which
connects to the battery positive (+) post), and connect the BLACK
wire to the self-grounding killswitch. The ignition system is grounded to
the negative () battery post through the engine. Set the air gap/clearance
between sensor and magnet in locking set screw collar at .010"-.050", and
set spark plug gap at .035". Please specify diameter of crankshaft PTO end
for locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet. Most common crankshaft PTO
end diameters are 1" and 1-1/8", but 3/4", 1-1/4", 1-3/8", 1-7/16" and 1-1/2"
are rare. Most billet steel crankshafts have a 1-1/2" diameter PTO end (raised
shoulder). Please specify diameter of crankshaft PTO end for locking set
screw collar w/embedded magnet. Made in the USA. Video of this ignition
system installed on a running engine coming soon. An ingenious and
innovative concept by Brian Miller because nobody else advertise this type
of custom-made ignition system. Please accept no advertised copycat products
of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and
intelligence.)
$200.00
per kit, plus shipping & handling. Please let me
know if you're interested in purchasing this kit and I'll give you the
total amount with shipping and payment options.
Click here
to contact A-1 Miller's for FREE honest and accurate technical support and/or
for ordering information and payment options. Please contact A-1
Miller's
if you need a part or parts,
or service performed that's not listed or mentioned in this
website. [Top of Page]
Self-Contained Crank Trigger Electronic Ignition System with an Incorporated
High Energy Ignition Coil Fastened on an Angled Aluminum Mounting Plate,
and Locking Set Screw Collar w/Embedded Magnet for Kohler Engine Models KT17
(first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, M18
and M20 Competition Pulling Engines Only -
Self-Contained Crank Trigger
Electronic Ignition System with an Incorporated High Energy Ignition Coil
Fastened on an Angled Aluminum Mounting Plate, and Locking Set Screw Collar
w/Embedded Magnet for Kohler Engine Models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series
II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, M18 and M20 Competition Pulling
Engines Only. Requires 12 volts DC negative ground. Being the aftermarket
and OEM Magnum M18 and M20 solid state electronic armature ignition coils
will hold up to around 3,600 RPM, when used at higher RPM, the secondary
windings within the coil tend to overheat, causing the coil to eventually
fail. But this custom-made ignition system allows the engine to rev to its
maximum without failing. It works flawlessly and may outlast the life of
the engine. It operates off the PTO end of the engine and is mainly for
competition pulling engines that have nothing on the PTO end of the crankshaft.
The high energy dual-spark plug wire compact armature ignition coil is fastened
above the DynaTek Dyna S module on a sturdy aluminum mounting plate; cleans
up the engine compartment. IMPORTANT: When ordering,
please indicate the bolt hole spacing (measurement) for mounting the angle
bracket to the rear closure plate on the PTO end of the engine. Or customer
can machine their own adjustable slotted mounting holes. This
high performance ignition system have been thoroughly tested under extreme
conditions, and produces a stable and very strong spark with the use of
microelectronics, even with the compact armature ignition
coil, allowing the engine to start quickly, idle smoothly and rev up to full
speed. The DynaTek Dyna S module/sensor is triggered by a small magnet embedded
in an aluminum locking set screw collar (magnet ring) that's fastened on
the crankshaft. Use this setup for durability when the solid state armature
ignition coil keeps failing for no apparent reason. All replacement ignition
parts are readily available. Simple one wire hook-up;
RED wire on module/sensor connects to
12 volt ignition switch (which connects to the positive (+) battery post).
This ignition system is grounded through the engine. Kit includes: DynaTek
Dyna S module/sensor and high energy dual wire epoxy-encapsulated armature
ignition coil with two molded-in metal core conductor coil-to-spark plug
wires and 90º spark plug terminals/boots fastened on aluminum mounting
plate, and small magnet embedded in an aluminum locking set screw collar
(magnet ring), and new battery ignition OFF-IGNITION-START key switch (do
not reuse OEM Magnum solid state ignition key switch with this system) or
momentary push button switch (to crank the engine), OFF-ON toggle/flip switch
or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition) and
fully insulated male and female slip-on spade crimp-type wire connectors
(to easily connect/disconnect the ignition system to/from the power source).
Remove the OEM solid state armature ignition coil and aluminum bracket. They
will serve no purpose with this kit. Simple wiring instructions: Connect
power wire to ignition switch (which connects to the positive (+) battery
post). The ignition system is grounded to the negative () battery post
through the engine. Use with metal core spark plugs gapped at .030" each.
Coil can withstand high engine vibrations. Please specify diameter of crankshaft
PTO end for the locking set screw collar when
ordering. Click here to learn how to
set the ignition timing on a KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first
design) KT19 Series II, M18 or M20 engine with crank trigger ignition.
Video of this ignition system installed on a running engine coming soon.
An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller because nobody else
advertise this type of custom-made ignition system. Please accept no advertised
copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my
ingenuity and intelligence.)
-
Crank Trigger Ignition Kit for Kohler engine models KT17 Series II or
KT19 Series II. Customer can reuse the original key switch. $200.00
per kit, plus shipping & handling.
-
Crank Trigger Ignition Kit for Kohler Magnum engine models KT17 Series
II, KT19 Series II, M18 or M20. Supplied with battery ignition
OFF-IGNITION-START key switch. $225.00 per kit, plus shipping &
handling.
-
Crank Trigger Ignition Kit for Kohler engine models KT17 Series II, KT19
Series II, M18 or M20. Supplied with momentary push button switch
and OFF-ON toggle/flip switch. $225.00 per kit, plus shipping &
handling.
-
Crank Trigger Ignition Kit for Kohler engine models KT17 Series II, KT19
Series II, M18 or M20. Supplied with momentary push button switch
and OFF-ON [security] key switch. $255.00 per kit, plus shipping &
handling.
-
Please let me know which kit you need and I'll give
you the total amount with shipping and payment options.
Click here
to contact A-1 Miller's for FREE honest and accurate technical support and/or
for ordering information and payment options. Please contact A-1
Miller's
if you need a part or parts,
or service performed that's not listed or mentioned in this
website. [Top of Page]
Replacement DynaTek Dyna S
Module/Sensor. IMPORTANT: Use with minimum 3.0 ohm coil to prevent burning
up module. Click
here to learn how to check the ohms resistance in a coil. Simple wiring
instructions: Connect BLACK wire to negative () terminal on
coil and connect RED wire to positive
[+] terminal on coil and to ignition switch (which connects to the positive
(+) battery post).
IMPORTANT
- The module will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than
a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly
happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a
master disconnect switch with a removable
key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition
system. Use with aluminum locking set screw collar w/embedded
magnet (magnet ring; listed below) on PTO end of crankshaft to trigger the
spark. $70.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Please
let me know if you're interested in purchasing this
part and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options.
Aluminum Locking Set Screw Collar
w/Embedded Trigger Magnet (Magnet Ring). Use with DynaTek Dyna S or hall
effect proximity sensors only. When ordering, please specify diameter of
crankshaft PTO end or shaft it's to be mounted on. Most common Kohler crankshaft
PTO end diameters are 1", 1-1/8", but 3/4", 1-1/4", 1-3/8", 1-7/16" and 1-1/2"
are rare. Most billet steel crankshafts have a 1-1/2" diameter PTO end (raised
shoulder). Other sizes available. $30.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. Please let me know if you're interested
in purchasing this part and I'll give you the total amount with shipping
and payment options. [Return to previous
section]
Click here
to contact A-1 Miller's for FREE honest and accurate technical support and/or
for ordering information and payment options. Please contact A-1
Miller's
if you need a part or parts,
or service performed that's not listed or mentioned in this
website. [Top of Page]
[Return to previous paragraph, section
or website]
How to Check for Spark and Set the Timing for the DynaTek Dyna S (or PerTronix
Ignitor) module/sensors - After either setup is installed on the engine
and power is supplied, simply rotate the locking set screw collar w/embedded
magnet (loose) on the crankshaft back and forth by hand. Each time the embedded
detector/trigger magnet passes the module/sensor, spark should occur. NOTE:
Do not use a battery charger alone for power to perform this test. Battery
chargers constantly switch between high and low voltage at 60 cycles per
second, and the module sees this as the ignition being switched on and off,
resulting in a continuous array of sparks.
A simple and precise way to set the ignition timing STATICALLY (engine
not running) for either module/sensor -
-
Place a mark (line) with a permanent ink marker (Marks A Lot or Sharpie)
or a flat chisel on the side of the locking collar next to the embedded magnet.
This is to indicate where the magnet is located from the side of the
collar.
-
Align the timing mark on the flywheel in alignment with the raised line on
the bearing plate where you want the timing to be set.
-
Align the mark on the collar with center of the module/sensor with the timing
mark on the flywheel and raised line.
-
Tighten the set screw in the collar and the timing will be correctly set.
How to accurately set the ignition timing STATICALLY for the DynaTek Dyna
S, PerTronix Ignitor and Inductive 3-Wire Proximity module/sensor -
(This is also how to test if the module/sensors or the ignition system
is functioning or not.)
-
Connect the wires correctly for either module/sensor as specified above with
a fully charged 12 volt battery connected in the circuit. NOTE: Do not
use a battery charger alone to perform this test. Battery chargers constantly
switch between high and low voltage at 60 cycles per second, and the module
sees this as the ignition being switched on and off resulting in a continuous,
constant array of sparks.
-
Connect a battery-powered
test light or
multimeter [set on the 12 volt reading] between the negative
() coil terminal and engine/chassis ground (which connects to the negative
() battery post).
-
For the hall effect Dyna S or Ignitor modules and inductive 3-wire
proximity sensor, with the magnet in the locking set screw collar not centered
or aligned with the sensor in the module, the light should be off or the
multimeter should show no voltage.
-
For the magnetic Ignitor module, with the screw head in the locking
ring not centered or aligned with the sensor in the module, the light should
illuminate or the multimeter should show approximate battery voltage.
-
Rotate the crankshaft to position the flywheel or starter pulley with the
desired timing mark aligned with the timing pointer or indicator on the engine.
This is close to where the timing needs to be set.
-
With the Allen set screw loose in the locking ring, again...
-
For the hall effect Dyna S or Ignitor modules and 3-wire inductive
proximity sensor, with the magnet in the locking ring centered or aligned
with the sensor in the module, the light should illuminate or the multimeter
should show approximate battery voltage. It is at this point when spark occurs.
-
For the magnetic Ignitor module, with the screw head in the locking
ring centered or aligned with the sensor in the module, the light should
be off or the multimeter should show no voltage. It is at this point when
spark occurs.
-
Tighten the Allen set screw in the collar on the crankshaft. The ignition
timing is now set close to where it needs to be.
-
Something cool to show off: To make a 12 volt in-dash indicator light
or LED flash while cranking the engine and illuminate while the engine is
running, for the Dyna S, Ignitor modules or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor
connected to the HEI, Chrysler or Ford module, connect the light or LED to
the negative () coil terminal and engine/chassis ground (which connects
to the negative () battery post). The LED may shine bright, but the
light will be dimly lit. The light or LED will not effect the performance
of the ignition system whatsoever. It'll also let you know if the ignition
system is working or not.
How to precisely set the ignition timing DYNAMICALLY (engine running)
using an automotive inductive timing light for either module/sensor.
(This is the most accurate way to set the timing.) NOTE: Timing can be
checked, but not set while the engine is running!
Do not allow module/sensor to make contact with
the locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet while engine is
running! -
-
Start the engine, shine the timing light on the timing mark on the flywheel
or starter pulley in relation with the pointer on the engine block to see
where the timing needs to be set. NOTE: Do not use a battery charger alone
to perform this test. Battery chargers constantly switch between high and
low voltage at 60 cycles per second, and the module sees this as the ignition
being switched on and off resulting in a continuous, constant array of
sparks.
-
If the timing is not set correctly, shut off the engine and loosen the Allen
set screw in the locking collar, slightly rotate crankshaft by hand one way
or the other to advance or retard the timing, and position the locking collar
with the magnet or screw head centered with the sensor in the module, and
tighten the Allen set screw.
-
Start the engine again, shine the timing light on the timing mark on the
flywheel or starter pulley in relation with the pointer on the engine block
to see if the timing is set where it needs to be.
-
Repeat steps 1, 2 and 3 if necessary until the timing is set exactly where
it needs to be, and securely tighten the Allen set screw.
-
No further bore.) OEM are required.

Magnetic pickup coils and round-shaped proximity sensors are
very sensitive to mechanical damage (and electrical damage if connected wrong).
For magnetic pickup coils, set the air
gap/clearance from the detectable target (screw, pin or small raised area
on the rotating disc) at .010"-.060" with a brass, plastic, business card,
poster board, stainless steel (anything non-magnetic) feeler gauge. And being
3-wire inductive proximity sensors have a farther
detection range, set the air gap/clearance at .010"-.188". If the gap is
wider than .188" (3/16") with either sensor, the ignition system may not
produce a spark or the engine could misfire at higher RPM. To prevent the
possibility of an out of time spark, the detectable target needs to be a
minimum of 3/16" higher than or above the circumference surface of a steel
or cast iron rotating disc or flywheel. Direct metal contact with either
sensor could damage them. When in doubt if a sensor is mechanically
damaged, look at the end of it with the strong magnifying glass to see any
damage. If it is damaged, it needs to be replaced. A magnetic pickup
coil can be tested with a digital multimeter set on 200m DC, with the negative
lead of the meter on the white wire of the pickup coil and positive lead
on the black wire, then pass a small steel screw or bolt over the end of
the magnetic pickup coil. If the meter shows a reading, the pickup coil is
in good condition.
Magnetic Pickup Coils
for A-1 Miller's flywheel- or
crank-trigger electronic ignition. All
magnetic pickup coils are Normally Open. Either can be used with the
high-output/performance GM 4-pin HEI module w/1.0 ohm coil, or with the Chrysler
or Ford electronic ignition control module/units. Self-generating power.
Detects head of small ferrous metal (steel) screw or bolt fastened to rotating
disc or flywheel to generate power in magnetic pickup coil. Install screw
head extended minimum 3/16" higher than or above the surface of the [cast
iron or steel] flywheel to prevent an out of time spark occurrence by the
flywheel itself. Wide operating temperature range. epoxy-encapsulated,
mechanically rugged. Impervious to dirt, oil and water. No maintenance required.
Durable metal shielded threads with two
jam nuts.
Please specify size when ordering. Can be used with a steel bracket without
interference of magnetism. By the way - The magnetic pickup coils below work
exactly the same. There is absolutely no difference in performance.
Set the air gap/clearance from the detectable target (screw, pin or small
raised area on the rotating disc) at .010"-.020" with a brass, plastic, business
card, poster board or anything non-magnetic feeler gauge.
Click/tap here for wiring diagrams.
-
1/4-28 UNF threads x 11/16" thread length housing, w/two 6" length wire leads.
$65.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
3/8-24 UNF threads x 1" thread length housing, w/two 7-1/2" length wire leads.
$60.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
3/8-24 UNF threads x 2-1/4" thread length housing, w/two 6 foot length wire
leads. $60.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
3/8-24 UNF threads x 3-9/16" thread length housing, w/two 6 foot length wire
leads. Replaces discontinued 12mm Kohler part # A-278782. $60.00 each,
plus shipping & handling.
-
5/8-18 UNF threads x 2-1/8" thread length housing, w/two 10 foot long wire
leads. $50.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
[Return to previous paragraph, section
or website]
-
Please let me know if you're interested in purchasing
either of these and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment
options. [Return to previous paragraph,
section or website]
Round 3-Wire Inductive Proximity
Sensors listed below for crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger ignition
systems or other types of electronic systems. Recommended for use with the
GM HEI, Chrysler or Ford electronic ignition control module/units. Wide operating
temperature range. epoxy-encapsulated, mechanically rugged. Impervious to
dirt, oil and water. No maintenance required. Sensors are capable of powering
crank-trigger or flywheel-trigger ignition and digital tachometer at the
same time. Durable metal shielded threads with two stainless steel thin
jam nuts
and three, 10 foot long wire leads. Dimensions of each item below: 15/32"
(12mm) diameter x 1-3/8" thread length. Some proximity sensors have an LED
(Light Emitting Diode) on the rear of unit. If the proximity sensor is wired
incorrectly, the LED will stay on and go off when activated.
PNP = Positive/Neutral/Positive. NPN = Neutral/Positive/Neutral.
Positive is when connection is made. Neutral is when connection is not made.
NOTE: Set air gap/clearance at .010" - .188". Direct metal contact
with either sensor will damage them. And if the gap is wider than specified,
the engine could misfire at higher RPM. To prevent the possibility of an
out of time spark, the detectable target needs to be a minimum of 3/16" higher
than or above the circumference surface of a steel or cast iron rotating
disc or flywheel.
Click/tap
here for wiring diagrams. [Return
to previous section]
-
Normally Closed (NC) NPN Hall Effect Proximity Sensor. Activates (turns on
power for ignition control module) when in close proximity of a small magnet
embedded in an aluminum rotating locking set screw collar, disc, or OEM magnet
embedded in a flywheel. $13.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Normally Open (NO) PNP Hall Effect Proximity Sensor. Deactivates (turns off
power for ignition control module) when in close proximity of a magnet embedded
in an aluminum rotating locking set screw collar, disc, or OEM magnet embedded
in a flywheel. $13.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Normally Closed (NC) NPN Inductive Proximity Sensor. Activates (turns on
power for ignition control module) when in close proximity of a hole or notch
in steel disc, or small steel screw [head] installed in a rotating locking
set screw collar, disc or flywheel. $13.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
Normally Open (NO) PNP Inductive Proximity Sensor. Deactivates (turns off
power for ignition control module) when in close proximity of a hole or notch
in steel disc, or small steel screw [head] installed in a rotating locking
set screw collar, disc or flywheel. $13.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
Please let me know if you're interested in purchasing
either of these and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment
options.
Detectable Steel Target Screw
w/Aluminum Spacer for Custom Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition Systems.
Fasten on edge of flywheel or rotating disc to trigger the spark when using
a magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor to trigger the
spark. Use on irregular or rough surface circumference of cast iron flywheel
or disc to prevent false or out-of-time triggering of spark. 8-32 UNF x 1/2"
length hardened steel Phillips head screw with 1/4" tall aluminum spacer.
Click/tap here to learn
how to professionally cut new threads. Weighs about 1/10 oz. / 2 grams.
IMPORTANT: To prevent from possibly loosening, secure screw in flywheel
or rotating disc with
high strength liquid threadlocker
(Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent). Tighten
screw just when the rubber begin to bulge, and allow the Loctite to dry and
harden overnight. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller because
nobody else advertise this type of product. Please accept no advertised copycat
products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity
and intelligence.)
$1.50
each, plus shipping & handling. Please let me know
if you're interested in purchasing this item and I'll give you the total
amount with shipping and payment options.
Detectable Steel
Target Screw
w/Magnet and Protective Rubber Washer for Custom Flywheel-Trigger Electronic
Ignition Systems. Fasten on edge of flywheel or rotating disc to trigger
the spark when using a 3-wire hall effect proximity sensor or PerTronix Ignitor
hall effect module/sensor to trigger the spark. 8-32 UNF x 1/2" length hardened
steel Phillips head screw.
Click/tap here to learn
how to professionally cut new threads. Weighs about 1/10 oz. / 2 grams.
NOTE: The rubber washer prevents the high strength but delicate and brittle
magnet from possibly breaking when the screw is tightened to the uneven or
rough casting on the flywheel. IMPORTANT: To prevent from possibly loosening,
secure screw in flywheel or rotating disc with
high strength liquid threadlocker
(Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent). Tighten
screw just when the rubber begin to bulge, and allow the Loctite to dry and
harden overnight. The PerTronix Ignitor hall effect module/sensor is activated
by the South pole of the magnet, so do not remove the magnet from the screw!
An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller because nobody else advertise
this type of product. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this
kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.)
$10.00 each, plus shipping
& handling. Please let me know if you're interested
in purchasing this item and I'll give you the total amount with shipping
and payment options.

High Quality GM 4-Pin HEI Ignition Control Module w/packet
of
thermal paste (to dissipate normal operating heat).
Use with a high-output hall effect or inductive proximity sensor. Virtually
any ignition coil regardless of the internal primary resistor can be used.
Best to be used with a metal core conductor coil-to-spark plug wire and copper
core/non-resistor spark plug gapped at .030" or .035" (depending on size
of coil) for best performance. After thorough research, this particular HEI
module that I offer is the only one that will work correctly with the high-output
cube-shaped proximity sensor to maintain the ignition timing and produce
an extremely strong spark, allowing the
engine to start quickly, idle smoothly and rev up to full governed RPM. When
mounting the HEI module, always fasten it with thermal paste on a clean,
flat aluminum plate with plenty of cool, circulating air to dissipate the
heat and cool the unit while in operation. All GM 4-pin HEI modules that
I offer for sale have been tested personally by Brian Miller on my Kohler
test engine to insure proper operation. Requires one (1) 3/16"/.187"/2.8mm
and three (3) #250
slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors. Actual
weight of each module: 1.1 oz. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 278903.
$25.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Please let
me know if you're interested in purchasing this item and I'll give you
the total amount with shipping and payment options.

High Quality High-Output/Performance GM 4-Pin HEI Ignition
Control Module w/packet of
thermal paste (to dissipate normal operating heat).
This particular module connected to a magnetic pickup coil (below
Ê) works excellent with a stock ignition
coil that have a maximum 1.0 ohm internal primary resistor, metal core conductor
coil-to-spark plug wire and copper core/non-resistor spark plug gapped at
.025, which produce a strong spark, allowing
the engine to rev up to full speed. When mounting the HEI module, fasten
it with thermal paste on a clean, flat aluminum plate with plenty of cool,
circulating air to dissipate the heat and cool the unit while in operation.
Requires one (1) 3/16"/.187"/2.8mm and three (3) #250
slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors. Actual
weight of each module: 1.1 oz. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 278903.
$25.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (Limited supply.)
Please let me know if you're interested in purchasing
this item and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options.
3/8" Magnetic Pickup Coil w/Adapter
Bracket and Mounting Screws to Convert from Breakerless Ignition or Points
and Condenser Ignition, and Upgrade to Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition.
Fits Kohler K-series K241-K361 engines with the 9" ring gear flywheel
w/projection (hump) or large bolt head on flywheel or 3/4" wide area (to
install trigger screw with a minimum 1/4" length aluminum spacer) and large
bearing plate with the two bosses for mounting this item, as shown in the
photo above. Installs in place of Breakerless Ignition Trigger Module. If
threads are not already present, new 10-24 UNC threads will need to be drilled
and tapped in the two raised bosses in the bearing plate to mount the bracket
for the sensor's bracket.
Click/tap here to learn
how to professionally cut new threads. For a strong spark, use with a
1.0 Ohm (6 volt) ignition coil, metal core spark plug wire and GM HEI high
performance module (listed above), or Ford or Chrysler module (listed below).
Set spark plug gap at .025" for a stronger spark. NOTE: Set air
gap/clearance from projection (hump) or large bolt head on flywheel at
.010"-.060" with a brass, plastic, business card, poster board or anything
non-magnetic feeler gauge. Ignition timing will be fixed at 20º
BTDC.
Click/tap here
for wiring diagrams. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian
Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I
do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.)
$90.00 each, plus shipping
& handling. Please let me know if you're interested
in purchasing this item and I'll give you the total amount with shipping
and payment options.

Now the ordinary/stock GM 4-pin HEI electronic ignition control
module lives up to its name, High Energy Ignition! When used on a small engine,
in order for an ordinary/stock GM 4-pin HEI module allow the engine rev up
to full RPM, it must be used with the high output cube-shaped 3-wire inductive
proximity sensor, and can be used with virtually any ignition coil,
regardless of the ohm resistance or voltage output. A metal core conductor
coil-to-spark plug wire and copper core/non-resistor spark plug should be
used to guarantee a stronger spark. Use an ohm meter to test for the resistance
in a spark plug wire. Set spark plug gap at .035". Sensor is capable of powering
the GM 4-pin HEI crank-trigger ignition control module and a digital
tachometer at the same time. This concept
revolutionizes the use of this small, compact and versatile module! This
is a thoroughly tested, researched and proven reliable ignition system invented
by Brian Miller for ordinary lawn and garden engines and competition pulling
engines. And when mounting the HEI module, always fasten it with
thermal paste (to dissipate normal operating
heat) on a clean, flat aluminum plate with plenty of cool, circulating air
to dissipate the heat while in operation.
Click/tap here for wiring diagrams.
IMPORTANT - The wire that comes from the stator
under the flywheel for Kohler Trigger Module or Tecumseh Solid State Electronic
Ignition Module generates about 250 volts (serious) while the engine is running
at full governed speed. Do not touch this wire (terminal) with one bare hand
and the engine itself with your other hand while the engine is running! It
is not needed for any of A-1 Miller's crank-trigger ignition systems. So
snip off this wire or tape up the terminal to prevent a short circuit or
electrocution. [Return
to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]
-
High Quality GM 4-Pin HEI Ignition Control Module. After thorough research,
this particular HEI module that I offer is the only one that will work correctly
with the high-output cube-shaped proximity sensor to maintain the ignition
timing and produce an extremely strong spark,
allowing the engine to start quickly, idle smoothly and rev up to full governed
RPM. Comes with packet of thermal paste. Actual weight of module: 1.1 oz.
Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 278903. $25.00 each, plus
shipping & handling.
-
High Quality Cube-Shaped 3-Wire Inductive Proximity Sensor Without Mounting
Adapter and Screws. Operates with 6-36 volts DC negative ground. Very
versatile. This sensor can be used for many applications, ignition or electrical.
59" length cable wire. Customer supplies own screws and fabricates own
mounting adapter. $20.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
High Quality Cube-Shaped 3-Wire Inductive Proximity Sensor With Mounting
Adapter and Screws. $60.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Please let me know if you're interested in purchasing
either of these and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment
options.
New High Quality Chrysler /
Dodge / Plymouth Electronic Ignition Control Module/Unit for flywheel-trigger
electronic ignition to use with small gas engines, automotive, and virtually
any gas engine. Requires 12 volts DC negative ground and a minimum 1.2
ohm ballast resistor to prevent burning up module.
Click/tap here to learn how to check the Ohm
resistance in a ballast resistor. This module can be used with the magnetic
pickup coil or proximity sensor and virtually any ignition coil, regardless
of the ohm resistance or voltage output for an extremely strong spark, and
will allow the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly, rev up to full RPM
with no hesitation or misfire and produce more power. A metal core conductor
coil-to-spark plug wire and copper core/non-resistor spark plug should be
used to guarantee a stronger spark. Use an ohm meter to test for the resistance
in a spark plug wire. Actual weight of module: 14 oz.
Click/tap here for wiring diagrams.
-
$20.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
New 1.6 Ohm Ballast Resistor
for use with Chrysler module (listed above) to prevent burning up unit.
-
$8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
New High Quality Ford / Mercury
/ Lincoln Electronic Ignition Control Module/Unit for flywheel-trigger electronic
ignition to use with small gas engines, automotive, and virtually any gas
engine. Requires 12 volts DC negative ground with no ballast resistor. This
module can be used with the magnetic pickup coil or proximity sensor and
virtually any ignition coil, regardless of the ohm resistance or voltage
output for an extremely strong spark, and will allow the engine to start
quicker, idle smoothly, rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or misfire
and produce more power. A metal core conductor coil-to-spark plug wire and
copper core/non-resistor spark plug should be used to guarantee a stronger
spark. Use an ohm meter to test for the resistance in a spark plug wire.
Actual weight of module: 1 lb. 7 oz. Click/tap
here for wiring diagrams.
-
$30.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High
Quality Inductive Wireless Handheld Small Engine Tachometer. A tachometer
is required in setting the correct RPM (normally 3,200 or 3,600 maximum for
small engines) of an engine to prevent over-revving and possible damage to
the engine or dangerous flywheel explosion. For gas/spark ignite engines
only. Works with magneto and battery-powered ignition systems. Very accurate.
This handheld analog tachometer works great for checking/setting the RPM
on various small engines in the shop, and/or for checking/setting the RPM
[tech] on stock governed competition pulling engines. Hold sensor (antenna)
close to coil-to-spark plug wire for reading. Reads up to 5,000 RPM on the
low scale, and 15,000 RPM on the high scale. Operates with a self-contained
replaceable 9 volt battery. Has built-in battery voltage check. $85.00
each, plus shipping & handling. Please let me know
if you're interested in purchasing this item and I'll give you the total
amount with shipping and payment options.
Inductive Small Engine
Tachometer/Hour Meter with Replaceable Battery. A tachometer is required
for monitoring and/or setting the maximum speed of a small engine, which
is normally 3,200 or 3,600 RPM, to prevent over-revving and possible damage
to the engine or dangerous flywheel explosion. Very accurate. Can be hand-held
to temporarily set engine RPM or can be surface-mounted and secured with
two screws to monitor engine RPM at all times. Large 3/8 inch LCD display.
Works with all spark ignition engines by selecting engine type by programming
S1 and S2 buttons. Works with magneto and battery-powered ignition systems.
If tachometer does not turn on automatically as soon as engine starts,
press and hold the two buttons at the same time. Instructions included.
Reads up to 99,999 RPM. Hour meter reads up to 9999:59 hours/minutes.
Programmable maintenance hour setting with service icon, a service reminder
when to change oil or other maintenance. Can be manually reset to Zero hours.
Easy installation: Single wire wraps around spark plug wire and secured with
two supplied nylon zip-ties. No wire terminal connections required. Weatherproof
construction. Requires CR2450 battery. Dimensions: 2" wide x 1-3/4" depth
x 3/4" height. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Please
let me know if you're interested in purchasing this
item and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options.
High Quality Digital
Tachometer/Proximity Sensor Kits. A tachometer is required in setting
the correct engine RPM (normally 3,200 or 3,600 maximum, depending on type
of carburetor) to prevent from over-revving and possible internal damage
or dangerous flywheel explosion. Choice of a
RED or
BLUE numeric display. Will work with
most small engines or multi-cylinder automotive engines, gas or diesel. The
great thing about this type of tachometer is that it needs no setup or
programming. It displays accurate RPM as soon as the engine cranks over to
start. Displays up to 9,999 RPM. Very accurate. Tachometer returns to zero
[0000] when engine is shut down. Can be used for lawn & garden equipment
or competition pulling engines. Designed to be permanently mounted to monitor
engine RPM at all times. Tachometer can be in-dash or panel-mounted. This
precision digital tachometer operates with external power and on the same
principle as my
flywheel- or
crank-trigger ignition systems with a proximity sensor to detect the
target, which can be a small ferrous steel screw or pin, or magnet in a rotating
disc on the crankshaft or on/in flywheel. Operates totally independent of
the ignition system, or can be used with crank trigger ignition with the
same proximity sensor. Sensor is capable of powering this digital tachometer
and crank-trigger ignition control module at the same time, with the exception
of using the Dynatek Dyna S or PerTronix Ignitor modules. This tachometer
must be wired separately or wiring can be incorporated with my crank-trigger
ignition system that use a proximity sensor. A sturdy steel or aluminum bracket
will need to be fabricated by customer to mount the sensor in close proximity
of the detector/trigger target. Set air gap/clearance at .010"-.188". Tachometer
works with 8-24 volts DC, proximity sensor works with 6-36 volts DC. Dimensions
for mounting hole for tachometer: 3" wide x 1-17/32" wide. Tachometer measures
1" in depth. Dimensions of proximity sensor: 15/32" diameter x 1-3/8" thread
length. Wiring Instructions: #1 wire on tachometer connects to brown wire
on proximity sensor and ignition switch (12 volt power), #2 wire on tachometer
connects to blue wire on proximity sensor and engine/chassis ground (which
connects to the negative () battery post), and #5 wire on tachometer
connects to black wire on (either) proximity sensor. Wires #3 and #4 connects
to nothing. Wiring is the same for the hall effect and inductive proximity
sensors. Some proximity sensors have an LED (Light Emitting Diode) on the
rear of unit. If the proximity sensor is wired incorrectly, the LED will
illuminate within the target.
Click/tap here for YouTube videos to see how well this tachometer
works. Please let me know if you're interested
in purchasing either of the below and I'll give you the total amount with
shipping and payment options.
-
Tachometer only. Use with virtually any Normally Open 3-wire hall effect,
inductive, or cube-shaped inductive proximity sensor (w/flywheel trigger
ignition). $22.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Complete Tachometer Kit with Hall Effect Proximity Sensor (dimensions
below) and Locking Set Screw Collar w/Embedded Magnet. When ordering, please
indicate diameter of crankshaft PTO end for locking collar. $47.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Complete Tachometer Kit with Inductive Proximity Sensor (dimensions
below). Senses the head of a small steel screw installed in a rotating locking
set screw collar, disc or flywheel. $32.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
Hall Effect Proximity Sensor. Dimensions: 15/32" Diameter x 2-1/2"
Length x 43" Cable Length . (Senses the South pole of a small magnet embedded
in an aluminum rotating locking collar, disc, or OEM magnet embedded in a
flywheel.) $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Inductive Proximity Sensor. Dimensions: 15/32" Diameter x 2-1/2" Length
x 43" Cable Length Inductive Proximity Sensor. (Senses the head of
a small steel screw installed in a rotating locking set screw collar, disc
or flywheel.) $13.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Aluminum Locking Set Screw Collar
w/Embedded Trigger Magnet (Magnet Ring). Use with DynaTek Dyna S or hall
effect proximity sensors only. $30.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Steel Locking Set Screw Collar w/Steel Trigger Screw Head. Use with inductive
proximity sensors or magnetic pickup coils. $25.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
When ordering either locking collar listed above, please specify diameter
of crankshaft PTO end or shaft it's to be mounted on. Most common Kohler
crankshaft PTO end diameters are 1", 1-1/8", but 3/4", 1-1/4", 1-3/8", 1-7/16"
and 1-1/2" are rare. Most billet steel crankshafts have a 1-1/2" diameter
PTO end (raised shoulder). Other sizes available.
Click
Here for Detailed Illustrated Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back
and Self-Propelled Garden Tractor Pulling Sled (Available
Soon)
To place an order and/or for FREE professional and honest
technical customer service assistance and support, please contact: A-1
Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO
(Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving
a voice message, please speak slowly and clearly). Call in your order or
email us a list parts you need. Payment Options.
Please call Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone, except holidays.
If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian on the
phone, please be patient and understanding because I stutter.)
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central
time zone, with an appointment on weekends, except holidays. If you're the
kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling
your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
purchase parts, or drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly,
engine parts, entire engine, transmission, transaxle, entire garden tractor,
etc. for repairing and/or rebuilding. Please call, text or email me before
coming so I'll be at my shop waiting for your arrival. When you visit our
shop, you will be dealing directly with the owner for the best customer service.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. "The road to a [trusted] friend's
house (or shop) is never long." Don't sacrifice quality workmanship for
distance. [Return To Previous Paragraph,
Section or Website]
By the way - As business is booming,
we're going to relocate our business later this year at 12091 N. Rt. B,
Hallsville, MO 65255 with a bigger, better, fully insulated, heated and
air-conditioned building/shop (shouse) so we can provide many more high quality
parts and professional services, and hire more help to have our customer's
parts orders fulfilled sooner, parts repairs and engine rebuilds performed
promptly without delay. We will also provide pick up and delivery service
and perform professional repairs for various small engines and lawn &
garden equipment! Photos
during construction of our new building/shop are posted
here!
Payment Options, and We Ship to Canada and
Worldwide 
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent
by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged
item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service
Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal
Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S.
territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground
or equivalent services. We try to keep our shipping cost to customers within
reason. Therefore, we don't ship our products in a fancy-looking package
with our company name and/or logo on it because most customers will just
toss it in the trash after they remove the contents. And being there is no
USPS tracking number outside the US, all I can do is make sure I write your
address correctly on the customs form and on your package.
My websites are not set up to process orders and accept payments. Therefore,
for payment options, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders,
cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express
(please add 2.5% to the total amount for the credit/debit card processor's
surcharge),
Western
Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram
Money Transfers. If paying with a credit/debit card, please call me at
either number above. To make a payment to me through PayPal, please click
this link:
https://www.paypal.me/PullingTractor.
Please use the "Friends and Family" option, or add 3% to the total amount
to cover PayPal's processing surcharge. Or to make a payment to me
(pullingtractor@aol.com) in the US through the Venmo. Or use
Cash App or
Zelle to make a payment to me (pullingtractor@aol.com).
And be sure to mention in PayPal, Venmo or Cash App a description of what
the payment is for with your full name, postal address, phone number and
email address. If sending a money order or cashier's check, please include
a note in the envelope with your name, complete mailing address, phone number,
email address and a description of what the payment is for. I'll make a note
of your order when I have all your information, and I may have to order some
of the parts, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send everything
on your list to you as soon as I have the parts in stock after I receive
your payment.


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maintained by Brian Miller.