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A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises Online Catalog

Conventional (Points and Condenser) Ignition Parts, Flywheel- and Crank-Trigger Electronic Ignition Kits, Parts and Information


Updated: 4/18/20 (Website reconstruction in progress) Jump down to:
Solid State Electronic Ignition Module

Conventional (Points and Condenser) Ignition Parts

100% Maintenance-Free, Electronic Ignition Systems That Operate Off the Flywheel End of a Lawn & Garden Small Engine - Eliminates Points and Condenser. 100% Maintenance-Free, Crank-Trigger Electronic Ignition Systems That Operate Off the PTO End of a Competition Pulling Small Engine - Eliminates Points and Condenser.


If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website, and/or for FREE professional, accurate and honest technical assistance and support, please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle, tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)


Solid State Electronic Ignition Module - | Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the parts or items in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page]
Replace the Points and Condenser in a Magneto Ignition System with a Universal Solid State Electronic Ignition Module
  • Designed to convert a self-energizing magneto ignition system with points and condenser into the more reliable and dependable electronic ignition. Will NOT work with 12 volt battery-powered ignition systems. Module will burn up instantly when power is supplied if connected to a 12 volt power source.
  • Upgrade the magneto ignition system on virtually any engine with the latest technology! Do away with the ignition points and condenser/capacitor (plug the points pushrod hole), and install a solid state electronic ignition module. It should be the end of your ignition problems. The ignition points and condenser/capacitor need to be removed from the engine and plug the ignition points plunger/pushrod hole. (Briggs & Stratton and Kohler engines.)
  • Universal and high performance. Improves engine performance by producing a strong spark, and by stabilizing the spark, much like my custom-made crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition does, except the detectable target is the magnets on or underneath the flywheel and the coil laminations. This module has a durable die-cast aluminum housing. Weather-proof and very reliable. Ignition timing is automatically set. Resulting in no "kick back" and no timing adjustment required. Works excellent with virtually any magneto ignition coil!
  • Suitable for use with most 2 leg or 3 leg magneto coils and with a flywheel having one or two magnets mounted internally or externally, and with coil mounted underneath or outside of flywheel. Works great regardless of the polarity of the magnets, too. Works on most lawn mowers, chain saws, trimmers, garden tillers, snow throwers, brush cutters, various one or two cylinder outboard boat motors, etc., with ignition points and condenser/capacitor ignition. But will not work with most Stihl trimmers and chain saws, or when the ignition coil is energized by a generator that gets its power from the magnet in the flywheel, such as various outboard boat motors. Usually, the coil don't need replacing when substituting the ignition points and condenser/capacitor with one of these solid state electronic ignition modules. If the engine ran, then the coil is obviously good.
  • Works only with magneto type ignition coils originally connected to contact ignition points and a condenser/capacitor. They will not work with solid state electronic ignition (CDI) coils, battery ignition coils or with flywheels having a ring of magnets mounted internally to which the ignition coil (mounted underneath flywheel also) operates off of, such as the bigger aluminum block Tecumseh engines (8hp and up). Engines can't start under full compression and with advanced ignition timing. One or the other must be "suppressed" in order for the engine to crank over without "kicking back" to start. Either it needs to have an automatic compression release to relieve about half the compression, then the compression will return to full upon start up, or the timing needs to be positioned at TDC, then it can automatically advance upon start up. (With the module, as each magnet pass the coil, it'll produce a spark. And if the spark don't occur at the precise time with the piston at a certain position in the cylinder, the engine will either "kick back" or will not run.) "Kick back" occurs when the crankshaft/flywheel suddenly and quickly momentarily rotates in the opposite direction, which is could bend or break the starter armature shaft or the aluminum starter housing. If the magnets for the charging system won't interfere with the magneto coil(s), then these modules should work well. But if the magneto coil(s) operate off the same magnets for the charging system, then neither module won't work. The modules senses when the magnet pass the coil and that's when it makes the spark. If a bunch of magnets continually pass the coil, then the coil will produce an array of sparks.
  • How the timing is automatically set and how it works: First of all, with ignition points, the point gap determines where the ignition timing is set (on systems with a fixed or non-adjustable ignition coil). Therefore, the spark occurs when the magnet in the flywheel pass the coil laminations the moment the ignition points open. But with no ignition points, the magnet still pass the coil laminations at the same moment, which sends an electrical current through a transistor and electronic components within these modules. This current is sent in the form of a signal to the module; within, a transistor opens the primary circuit in the coil and the spark occurs. All this happens at the speed of electricity, which can be anywhere from about 50% to 99% of the speed of light, depending upon the quality of the electronic components and Wiring connections. Either module provides unlimited RPM. The conventional ignition points and condenser/capacitor ignition system is less responsive.
  • This module should work very well with most magneto ignition coils. However, a new coil is recommended to use with this module. If a used coil is utilized, a weak spark may occur. This module is not for use on engines equipped with battery ignition, solid state electronic ignition coil/module or multiple magnets under the flywheel with ignition coil under the flywheel, too. Scroll down for wiring diagrams and installation instructions Ê.

Wiring Diagram and Installation Instructions for Universal Solid State Electronic Magneto Ignition Module are as follows:

  1. Fasten the module to the engine sheet metal that has plenty of cool air circulation with the supplied mounting screw.
  2. Connect the supplied wire to one of the terminals on the module and to engine ground.
  3. The ignition coil has two small wires coming out of it. Leave the original (short) wire connected (grounded) to the stator laminations, and connect the wire that went to the points and condenser to the unused terminal on the module.
  4. Remove the spark plug from the cylinder head, and connect the high tension coil wire to a new spark plug positioned on a (grounded) metal part of the engine.
  5. Crank the engine rapidly, and at the same time, observe for a blue, snappy spark. If a spark doesn't occur, simply reverse the wire connections, then it should produce a spark. This is due to reverse polarity in the flywheel magnet.
NOTE: The alternative to using either of the items below is to remove the ignition points and points pushrod, and place the pushrod on a hard, flat surface, and use a hammer and sharp flat cold chisel to lightly create knurled raised marks midway on the pushrod. Then reinstall the pushrod in the engine block with the hammer. The knurling will retain the pushrod in the hole.

3/16" Plug to Replace Kohler Points Pushrod. Use in Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, K482, K532 and K582 when converting from magneto to solid state ignition (above), Magnum solid state ignition, flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition (further down in this website). Install with a medium size hammer; fits very tight. OEM Briggs & Stratton part #'s 231143, 692882. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Block-Off Plate to Cover Kohler Points Pushrod Hole. Use in Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582 when converting from magneto to solid state ignition (above), Magnum solid state ignition, or flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition (further down in this website). Made of 1/8" thickness aluminum or steel. Apply RTV silicone sealant to prevent oil leak and use OEM ignition points mounting screws to secure in place. A-1 Miller part. $4.00 each, plus shipping & handling. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.) [Return to previous paragraph, section or website]

Conventional (Points and Condenser) Ignition Parts - | Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the parts or items in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page]
Ignition Points for Kohler, Tecumseh and Clinton engines. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582 with magneto or battery ignition (use with mounting bracket). Also fits Tecumseh cast iron block engine models HH80, HH100, HH120 with magneto or battery ignition (use without mounting bracket); and Clinton engine models 414, 418, 420, 422 (use without mounting bracket). NOTE: If possible, apply clean lubricating grease on the hinge/pivot pin before installing points so the hole will last longer. If it's dry, it'll wear over time, effecting ignition timing, resulting in loss of engine power. Or better yet, a magneto ignition system can be upgraded with the virtually trouble- and maintenance-free electronic transistorized ignition module or battery-powered flywheel-trigger/crank-trigger ignition for a stronger and more stable spark, quicker starts, better idle and smoother running engine.
  • High quality aftermarket points without mounting bracket. Replaces Tecumseh part #'s 32011, 32011A; and Kohler # 47 150 03-S (reuse existing bracket). $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • High quality aftermarket points with mounting bracket. Replaces Kohler part # 47 150 03-S; and Tecumseh part #'s 32011, 32011A (use without bracket). $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler points with mounting bracket, part # 47 150 03-S. $14.30 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Include Hex Socket (Allen) Head Cap Screw and split lock washer (below Ê) in points w/bracket, add $1.00.


Hex Socket (Allen) Head Cap Screw w/split lock washer for Ignition Points on single cylinder Kohler and cast iron block Tecumseh engines. Replaces Phillips or OEM slotted head adjustment screw in points. This stainless steel Allen head screw makes it much easier to precisely set the point gap and/or ignition timing with a 9/64" hex (Allen) L-wrench so the points will not slip out of adjustment in garden tractors with a longitudinal engine, such as Cub Cadet, Economy Power King, Ford, hydrostatic-drive John Deere, Pennsylvania Panzer, Meteor, Copar, etc. No need to use this on garden tractors with a transverse engine, such as older Bolens, John Deere, Sears Suburban, Wheel Horse, etc. NOTE: The threads for the adjustment screw in aftermarket points may need to be retapped with a 8-32 UNF hand tap. And due to risk of stripping threads in the thin metal points bracket, do not over-tighten this adjustment screw! An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.)
  • Hex Socket (Allen) Head Cap Screw w/split lock washer. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 9/64" Hex (Allen) L-Wrench. Measures 7/8" wide x 2-1/2" length. Made of high strength black alloy steel. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

High Quality Adjustable Chevy (GM) Ignition Points with Stiff Spring for Quick Reaction at High Engine RPMs. Includes locking/jam nut. Loosen nut with a 5/16" wrench, set ignition timing with adjustment screw (and timing light), and tighten nut to prevent adjusting screw from vibrating out of adjustment due to high engine RPM. For use on Kohler competition pulling engines only. An original and ingenious idea by Brian Miller. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Phillips and Socket (Allen) Head screws with split lock washers for mounting of ignition points and points cover on Kohler engines. These type of screws make for easier fastening of points and points cover to engine block in hard-to-get places than the OEM slotted head screws on garden tractors with a transverse engine, such as older Bolens, belt-drive John Deere, Sears Suburban, Wheel Horse, etc. Each screw replaces Kohler part # X-131-1-S. Dimensions: 10-24 UNC x 3/8" thread length. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.) TIP: When installing a screw to keep it from falling out of the screwdriver, for ordinary steel screws, temporarily magnetize the screwdriver by rubbing a magnet along the length of the shank, or for stainless steel screws, apply a dab of grease in the head of the screw.
  • New Phillips head w/split lock washers. $1.00 per pair, plus shipping & handling.
  • New Socket (Allen) Head cap screws w/split lock washers. $2.00 per pair, plus shipping & handling.
Ignition Points Pushrods. Below fits Kohler K-series engine models K141, K160/K161 and K181. NOTE: Used OEM pushrod to be no less than 1.265" in length and .184" in diameter. Measure accurately to determine if need replacing.
  • Stainless Steel. A-1 Miller's high quality aftermarket part. Replaces Kohler part # 41 411 01-S. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Aluminum. OEM Kohler part # 41 411 01-S. $22.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Flared-End Stainless Steel Points Pushrod. Install this special-made points pushrod when the points lobe on the camshaft or breaker cam (points lobe) on models K482, K532 and K582 is severely worn. Flared-end makes contact with unworn areas (sides) of points lobe. This pushrod allows maximum opening of points so ignition timing can be set at factory specifications. Can also be used with an unworn points lobe for longer wear. NOTE: Engine or governor assembly MUST be completely disassembled to install this part. The alternative to using this part is to install a custom-made flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition system. Replaces Kohler part # 41 411 01-S. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.)


Ignition Points Pushrods. Below fits Kohler K-series engine models K90/K91, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, K482, K532 and K582. NOTE: Used OEM pushrod to be no less than 1.500" in length and .184" in diameter. Measure accurately to determine if need replacing.
  • Stainless Steel. A-1 Miller's high quality aftermarket part. Replaces Kohler part # 47 411 04-S. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Aluminum. OEM Kohler part # 46 411 01-S. $11.90 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Stainless Steel. OEM Kohler part # 47 411 04-S. $17.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Aluminum. OEM Kohler part # X-489-8-S (listed for K482, K532 and K582 engines). $31.70 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Flared-End Stainless Steel Points Pushrod. Install this special-made points pushrod when the points lobe on the camshaft or breaker cam (points lobe) on models K482, K532 and K582 is severely worn. Flared-end makes contact with unworn areas (sides) of points lobe. This pushrod allows maximum opening of points so ignition timing can be set at factory specifications. Can also be used with an unworn points lobe for longer wear. NOTE: Engine or governor assembly MUST be completely disassembled to install this part. The alternative to using this part is to install a custom-made flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition system. Replaces Kohler part #'s 47 411 04-S and X-489-8-S. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.)
Points Pushrod Seals. Each prevents seepage of crankcase oil from contaminating points contacts. Each fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, K482, K532 and K582 with a 3/16" diameter points pushrod. Please choose to use one or the other below Ê, no need to use both.

Neoprene Rubber O-Ring. Installs on points pushrod close to engine block, and allows any seepage of oil to drip down, staying off the points contacts. .50¢ each, plus shipping & handling.

Translucent, Silicone Rubber Diaphragm Seal. Slides over points pushrod and is held in place by points bracket. Blocks oil seepage 100%. IMPORTANT - Before installing, apply clean motor oil, gear oil or lubricating grease inside seal or on points pushrod to prevent premature wear and possible oil leakage of the seal. (Also used as part of the flywheel guard on various Kohler Magnum engine models M10-M16.) OEM Kohler part # 220074-S. $6.25 each, plus shipping & handling. [Return to previous paragraph, section or website]

Oil-Embedded Bronze Sleeve Bushing to Repair Worn 3/16" Ignition Points Pushrod Hole in Kohler Engines. Dimensions: 3/16" I.D. x 1/4" O.D. x 5/8" length. To install, the points pushrod hole will need to be precision-machined (enlarged) exactly to .250" (1/4") for a press-fit installation.
  • $4.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Ignition Points Cover Gasket. Protects points contacts from dust, dirt and water contamination. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582. OEM Kohler part # 52 041 11-S.
  • $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Ignition Points Cover/Wire Grommet. Prevents dust and dirt from contaminating points contacts, and protects points wire from rubbing/chafing against points cover. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582. FYI: RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant will serve the same purpose.
  • OEM Kohler part # 220297-S. $4.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
"Assemble It Yourself" Points-to-Coil Ignition Wire Kit. For Kohler engines with battery-powered ignition, models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582. Replace OEM wire with frayed/cracked insulation and/or broken connector(s) to prevent a short circuit and/or engine misfire.
  • Includes 22" 16 gauge stranded copper wire (cut to length if desired) and two slip-on crimp connectors. Without points cover/wire grommet. (Reuse original grommet.) High quality A-1 Miller part. $3.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Includes 22" 16 gauge stranded copper wire (cut to length if desired), two slip-on crimp connectors and points cover/wire grommet. High quality A-1 Miller part. $7.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.

Assembled Points-to-Coil Ignition Wire Kits -

  • High quality aftermarket. 10" length, 16 gauge stranded copper wire, crimp connectors and OEM Kohler points cover/wire grommet. For Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582. Replaces Kohler part # A-231533-S. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • For Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582. 17" length, 14 gauge stranded copper wire, connectors and points cover/wire grommet. OEM Kohler part # A-231533-S. $14.85 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • High quality aftermarket. 14" length, 16 gauge stranded copper wire, crimp connectors and OEM Kohler points cover/wire grommet. For single cylinder Kohler engines with coil located close to carburetor. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • High quality aftermarket. 22" length, 16 gauge stranded copper wire, crimp connectors and OEM Kohler points cover/wire grommet. For single cylinder Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) engines with coil located above starter motor. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 47 125 01-S. 22" length, 14 gauge stranded copper wire, connectors and points cover/wire grommet. $17.55 each, plus shipping & handling.
Ignition Points Cover (without Push-Button Kill Switch) for Kohler engines with a Battery-Powered Ignition System. Protects points contacts from dust, dirt and water contamination. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582. For use with a remote ignition switch to kill engine, such as garden tractors and other small engine equipment. Made of 16 gauge stamped steel.
  • Used and in excellent condition. $6.50 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
  • New. OEM Kohler part # 232535-S. $13.25 each, plus shipping & handling.
Ignition Points Cover with Push-Button Kill Switch for Kohler engines with Magneto Ignition. Protects points contacts from dust, dirt and water contamination. Push and hold button in to kill engine. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341, K482, K532 and K582. For use on a self-contained, stand-alone engine without a remote kill switch, such as garden tillers, air compressors, generators/welders, water pumps, etc. Made of 16 gauge stamped steel. Discontinued OEM Kohler part # A-220136-S.
  • Used and in excellent condition. $30.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
Low Capacity Ignition Condensers/Capacitors. Each designed for use with self-energizing magneto ignition or a 12 volt small-size epoxy encapsulated ignition coil. Use on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, K330/K331, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582. Including Tecumseh cast iron block engine models HH80, HH100, HH120 with magneto ignition, Onan model P, and various other makes and models of small engines with a small size ignition coil. Body length: 33 mm, width: 17 mm. NOTE: If an engine idles well, but runs erratically when revved up, like it hits and misses, pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs a new condenser/capacitor. And always install a condenser/capacitor with the wire or terminal facing down so rain water and/or when washing off engine, water will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it. Which will allow the engine to idle well, but run erratically when revved up. Click or tap here to hear what an engine with a faulty condenser/capacitor sounds like. NOTE: Magneto ignition system can be upgraded with the virtually trouble- and maintenance-free electronic transistorized ignition module or battery-powered flywheel-trigger/crank-trigger ignition for a stronger and more stable spark, quicker starts, better idle and smoother running engine.
  • High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 47 147 01-S. $16.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 47 147 01-S. $23.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • High quality aftermarket. No longer available from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # 220434-S, and Tecumseh part # 32015. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


Medium Capacity Ignition Condensers/Capacitors. Designed for use with standard-output 12 volt ignition coils. Will not work with a high-output/performance 30,000+ volt (Bosch) coil or a distributor-driven ignition system. Use on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532, K582, and Tecumseh cast iron block engine models HH80, HH100, HH120, and various other makes and models of small engines with a standard size battery-powered canister-type ignition coil. Each measures: .665" diameter x 1.250" length x 3-1/2" wire length. If an engine idles well, but runs erratically when revved up, like it hits and misses, pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs a new condenser/capacitor. And always install a condenser/capacitor with the wire or terminal facing down so rain water and/or when washing off engine, water will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it. Which will allow the engine to idle well, but runs erratically when revved up. Click or tap here to hear what an engine with a faulty condenser/capacitor sounds like. NOTE: Battery-powered ignition system can be upgraded with the virtually trouble- and maintenance-free flywheel-trigger/crank-trigger ignition for a stronger and more stable spark, quicker starts, better idle and smoother running engine.

  • High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 230722-S. $7.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler condenser/capacitor part # 230722-S. $17.45 each, plus shipping & handling.


High Capacity/Performance Ignition Condenser/Capacitor. Designed for use with a 30,000+ volt high-output/performance 12 volt ignition (Bosch) coil or a distributor-driven ignition system so engine will rev up to full RPM. Equivalent to ACCEL, Bosch, Mallory, MSD and most other name brand high performance condensers. Reuse OEM Kohler condenser/capacitor bracket/clamp where applicable. Use on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532, K582, and Tecumseh cast iron block engine models HH80, HH100, HH120, and various other makes and models of small engines with a battery-powered ignition system. Dimensions: .665" diameter x 1.250" length x 3-1/2" wire length. If an engine has a high-output/performance ignition coil, idles poorly and revs up with constant black smoke out the exhaust, then it needs a high capacity/performance condenser. And always install a condenser/capacitor with the wire or terminal facing down so rain water and/or when washing off engine, water will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it. Which will allow the engine to idle well, but run erratically when revved up. Click or tap here to hear what an engine with a faulty condenser/capacitor sounds like. NOTE: Battery-powered ignition system can be upgraded with the virtually trouble- and maintenance-free flywheel-trigger/crank-trigger ignition for a stronger and more stable spark, quicker starts, better idle and smoother running engine.

  • High Capacity/Performance Ignition Condenser/Capacitor. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

OEM Kohler clamp for the high capacity/performance ignition condenser/capacitor above È. Has 1/4" mounting hole.

  • Used and in excellent condition. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality non-resistor/copper core Spark Plugs for Kohler engine models K90/K91, most Briggs & Stratton and small Tecumseh engines. Copper core spark plugs allows ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. Set gap at .025" with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system, .035" with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with a high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 3/8" thread reach, flat washer seat. Replaces Briggs and Stratton part # 802592S.
  • Autolite® 455. $2.50 each, plus shipping & handling. (Limited quantity.)
  • Champion® 861 (J19LM). $3.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 41 132 06-S. $7.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


High Quality non-resistor/copper core Spark Plugs for Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181/M8, and cast iron block Tecumseh engine models VH80, VH100, HH80, HH100, HH120, OH140, OH150, OH160 and OH180. Copper core spark plugs allows ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. For best engine performance, set gap at .025" with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system, .035" with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with a high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 3/8" thread reach, flat washer seat.

  • Autolite® 295 Non-Resistor. $2.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Champion® 841 (J8C) Copper Plus. $3.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 41 132 02-S. $9.35 each, plus shipping & handling.


High Quality non-resistor/copper core Spark Plugs for Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K330/K331, K321/M14, K341/M16, K361, K482, K532 and K582. Copper core spark plugs allows ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. For best engine performance, set gap at .025" with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system, .035" with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with a high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 7/16" thread reach for stock OEM cylinder heads, flat washer seat.

  • Autolite® 216 Non-Resistor. $2.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Champion® 844 (H10C) Copper Plus. $3.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • AC Delco C45L Copper Core. $3.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 25 132 10-S. $11.10 each, plus shipping & handling.


High Quality non-resistor/copper core Spark Plugs for Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K330/K331, K321/M14 , K341/M16. Copper core spark plugs allows ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. For best engine performance, set gap at .025" with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system, .035" with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with a high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 3/4" thread reach for machined billet cylinder heads, flat washer seat.

  • Autolite® 4056 Copper; Tapered electrode design. $2.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Champion® 120 (N5C) Copper Plus. $2.50 each, plus shipping & handling.


High Quality non-resistor/copper core Spark Plugs for Kohler twin-cylinder flathead engine models MV16, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Copper core spark plugs allows ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. For best engine performance, set gap at .025" with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system, .035" with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with a high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 15/32" thread reach, tapered seat.
  • Autolite® 26 Non-Resistor. $2.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Champion® 25 (RV17YC) Copper Plus. $3.65 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 52 132 02-S. $9.15 each, plus shipping & handling.


High Quality non-resistor/copper core Spark Plugs for most makes and models of OHV aluminum block single- and twin-cylinder air-cooled small engines. Copper core spark plugs allows ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. For best engine performance, set gap at .025" with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system, .035" with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with a high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 5/8" thread reach, flat washer seat.
  • Champion® 71 (RC12YC) Copper Plus. $3.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 12 132 02-S. $6.10 each, plus shipping & handling.


High Quality non-resistor/copper core Spark Plugs for most models of Onan twin-cylinder air-cooled small engines. Copper core spark plugs allows ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. For best engine performance, set gap at .025" with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system, .035" with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with a high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 11/16" thread reach, flat washer seat.

  • Autolite® 106 Non-Resistor. $2.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • AC Delco R44LTS Copper Core. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Champion® RS17YX Copper Plus. $3.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
Spark Plug Grommet. Fits Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) engine models K181AQS, M8, K241AQS, K301AQS, K321AQS and K341AQS. Fastens directly on spark plug in air duct shield (sheet metal) over cylinder head to help maintain cool air over the cylinder head. Made of neoprene rubber.
  • OEM Kohler part # 47 313 01-S. $4.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
Indexing Washers for Flat Seat Spark Plugs with 14mm Threads. Position spark plug in combustion chamber with open/exposed gap facing the center of the piston in flathead engines for more power and torque when using tractor under extreme conditions, such as heavy mowing, garden plowing, pushing/blowing snow, or for competition pulling. To know exactly where the open gap is when the spark plug is installed, use a permanent ink felt tip marker (Sharpie, Magic Marker, Marks-A-Lot) to place a mark (line) on the porcelain in-line with the open gap at the tip of the spark plug as shown in the picture to the right. And on flat seat spark plugs, leave the original compression washer on the spark plug and add the indexing washer(s) as needed until the open gap face the piston. Available in the following thicknesses: .005", .010" and .015". Made of hardened steel. .75¢ each, plus shipping & handling.

Indexing Washers for Tapered Seat Spark Plugs with 14mm Threads. Position spark plug in combustion chamber with open or exposed gap toward the piston in OHV engines for more power and torque when using tractor under extreme conditions, such as heavy mowing, garden plowing, pushing/blowing snow, or for competition pulling. Made of copper. Available in the following thicknesses: .010", .021" and .032". $1.50 each, plus shipping & handling.

Grounding-Type Safety Break-Away / Kill Switch with Pull-Pin. Use for competition pulling only; mount on rear of tractor. When the pin pulled, it grounds the ignition coil from producing spark. If using with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition systems: Connect one wire to the chassis ground, and connect the other wire to the points/condenser wire or to the kill terminal on the solid state electronic ignition coil/module. If using with a battery-powered ignition system: Connect one wire to the chassis ground, and connect the other wire to the coil negative (–) terminal. NOTE: With battery-powered ignition, as soon as pin is pulled (engine will die), manually shut off ignition switch right away to prevent possible damage to the ignition coil and electronic ignition module if equipped with crank-trigger ignition. This type of switch does not disable power to the electric fuel pump on a pulling tractor. The electric fuel pump must be shut-off manually by the ignition switch or an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or [security] key switch.
  • Grounding-Type Safety Break-Away / Kill Switch with Pull-Pin. $14.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Replacement Pull-Pin for Break-Away Switch Above. Keep an extra on hand to replace a damaged or "misplaced" pin by a disgruntled competitive puller. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Universal Self-Grounding OFF-ON Kill Switches for Self-Energizing Magneto Ignition w/Points and Condenser, Solid State Ignition Installed on Various Aluminum Block Engines, or OEM Solid State Ignition Installed on Tecumseh's Cast Iron Block Engines. Very durable, tough switches. Each can be mounted in metal (grounded) dashboard, instrument panel, engine control panel, engine flywheel shroud, etc. Single blade on switch connects to points wire or solid state electronic module wire/terminal that kills the engine. Can be used on anything that has points and condenser/capacitor magneto or solid state electronic modules, such as: Kohler Magnum and Command engines, lawn mowers, lawn tractors, garden tillers, recreational vehicles, chainsaws, portable air compressors, generators/welders, water pumps, etc.
  • OFF-ON Toggle/Flip Switch. Comes with OFF-ON indicator plate. Use #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connector on terminal when connecting ignition wire to switch. Grounded through body of switch. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part 223072-S. $3.60 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OFF-ON Key Switch. Use for security of equipment. Use #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals when connecting wires to switch. Grounded through body of switch. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Universal OFF-ON Switches for Battery-Powered Points/Condenser Ignition or Battery-Powered Flywheel/Crank-Trigger Electronic Ignition. Each can be mounted in dashboard, instrument panel, engine control panel, etc. Very durable, tough switches. Can be used on virtually anything that has a battery-powered electrical system, such as: garden tractors, pulling tractors, mini-rods, hot-rods, farm tractors, automobiles, etc.
  • OFF-ON Toggle/Flip Switch. Can be used for lights, ignition, electric fuel pump, electric PTO clutch, etc. Maximum 20 amp capacity. Comes with OFF-ON indicator plate and two 6" wire leads. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # 238011-S. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OFF-ON Pull-Push Switch. Pull out = ON, Push in = OFF. Can be used for lights, ignition, electric fuel pump, electric PTO clutch, etc. Maximum 5 amp capacity. Two screw terminal connection. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # 275713. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OFF-ON Key Switch. Use for security of equipment. Use #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals when connecting wires to switch. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]
High Quality Universal Light Duty OFF/ON 15 Amp Capacity Momentary Push Button Switch. BLACK button; Normally Open; push to connect circuit. Use as starter switch to crank engine, as a safety switch, temporarily power electrical accessories, such as light(s), etc., or to power kill switch motor (on pulling sled). Starter solenoid/relay may be required if electrical load exceeds 15 amps. Use #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals when connecting wires to switch. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. 2-1/8" overall length. $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

High Quality Universal Light Duty ON/OFF 15 Amp Capacity Momentary Push Button Switch. RED button; Normally Off; push to disconnect circuit. Use as a safety switch for transmission shifter in a pulling vehicle to disconnect power to the starting circuit when transmission is in gear. Use #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals when connecting wires to switch. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. 2-1/8" overall length. $16.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

High Quality Universal Heavy Duty 20 Amp Capacity Momentary Push Button Switch. Normally Open; push to connect circuit. Comes with two screws to connect between battery positive (+) post and starter motor. Heavy wire terminals and minimum #8 gauge wire recommended. Starter solenoid/relay may be required if electrical load exceeds 20 amps. Requires 5/8" mounting hole. $14.00 each, plus shipping & handling. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]

High Quality Universal 3-Position OFF-IGNITION-START Key Switch for use with Self-Energizing Magneto Ignition w/Points and Condenser, Solid State Ignition (Installed on Various Aluminum Block Engines), OEM Solid State Ignition Installed on Tecumseh's Cast Iron Block Engines, or OEM Kohler Breakerless Ignition. Identification of terminals: B = Battery (+); G = Ground (terminal is grounded to body of switch); L = Lights (use a separate OFF-ON switch connected to this terminal to power an electric PTO clutch); M = Magneto (Ignition); S = Solenoid (small terminal). Key positions: OFF position makes contact with M+G; IGNITION position makes contact with B+L; START position makes contact with B+S. Each terminal identified for correct wiring connections. IMPORTANT: Use with a starter solenoid/relay to crank the engine to prevent burning out internal contacts in switch. NOTE: If engine is equipped with an alternator/stator charging system, the center terminal on the voltage rectifier/regulator connects to the battery (+) terminal. If using an ammeter/amp gauge, connect the gauge/meter to the battery positive (+) post, then to the B terminal on the switch. Trace the wires on your tractor/equipment to see if they match the terminals on this switch. If they don't match, the plug-in spade connectors/wires can be rearranged in the plastic connector housing to match the corresponding terminals on the switch. To do this, use a small flat blade screwdriver to depress the locking tab/tang so the plug-in connector can be pulled out from the plastic connector housing. Bend the locking tab/tang up slightly before reinserting it in the plastic connector so it will be secured in place. Or use #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals when connecting wires to switch. Requires 5/8" diameter mounting hole. Our part # 9158. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Universal 3-Position OFF-IGNITION-START Key Switch for use with Battery-Powered Points/Condenser Ignition or Battery-Powered Flywheel/Crank-Trigger Aftermarket Replacement Electronic Ignition. Identification of terminals are: I = Ignition; A = Auxiliary (electrical accessories, such as lights, electric PTO clutch, etc. NOTE: use a separate OFF-ON switch connected to this terminal to power an electric PTO clutch); R = Rectifier; B = Battery (+); S = Solenoid (small terminal). Key positions: OFF position makes no contact with any of the other terminals; IGNITION position makes contact with B+I+R+A; START position makes contact with B+I+R+S. Each terminal identified for correct wiring connections. IMPORTANT: Use with a starter solenoid/relay to crank the engine to prevent burning out internal contacts in switch. If using an ammeter/amp gauge, connect the gauge/meter to the battery positive (+) post, then to the B terminal on the switch. Trace the wires on your tractor/equipment to see if they match the terminals on this switch. If they don't match, the plug-in spade connectors/wires can be rearranged in the plastic connector housing to match the corresponding terminals on the switch. To do this, use a small flat blade screwdriver to depress the locking tab/tang so the plug-in connector can be pulled out from the plastic connector housing. Bend the locking tab/tang up slightly before reinserting it in the plastic connector so it will be secured in place. Or use #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals when connecting wires to switch. Requires 9/16" diameter mounting hole. Our part # 33393. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Universal Wiring Harness with Plastic Housing Connector. Replace damaged wiring and connector, or use as new wiring harness on a custom-made project. Fits universal OFF-IGNITION-START key switches above and other key switches with same terminal configuration. 18" length wires. $13.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


Plastic Housing Electrical Connector Only. Replace damaged connector when the brass slide-on spade crimp wire connectors are in good condition. Fits universal OFF-IGNITION-START key switches above and other key switches with same terminal configuration. Requires 1/4" width slide-on brass spade crimp wire connectors with locking tab/tang below. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


1/4" Width Slide-On Brass Spade Crimp Wire Connector with Locking Tab/Tang. Fits plastic housing connectors used on most OFF-IGNITION-START key switches, voltage rectifier/regulators, head lights, etc. To remove old slide-on brass connector from plastic housing, use a small flat blade screwdriver to depress locking tab/tang on connector, and pull connector out of housing. Solder or use terminal crimping pliers to install on wire. Before installing the new connector, make sure locking tab/tang is slightly bent outward, and slide connector into plastic housing in the correct position until it locks/snaps in place. This part was never available from Kohler. $1.40 each, plus shipping & handling.

OFF/ON Main/Master Disconnect/Cutoff Switch with Removable Key. Use this 100 amp capacity switch to disable all power throughout the equipment to prevent sabotage an/or an accidental electrical short that could burn up the wiring system or entire equipment. Useful when equipment is not used for a period of time to prevent a slow drain on the battery, prevent short circuits when performing electrical service on equipment, or for a pulling tractor to prevent accidental starts or to prevent sabotage at the pull sites by disgruntled pullers. Connect between battery negative (–) post and equipment ground. Copper terminals with brass hex nuts for improved continuity. Comes with protective weather cap and two removable nylon key locks. Mounting hardware not included. $19.00 each, plus shipping & handling. [Return to previous paragraph, section or website]
Self-Energizing Solid State Electronic Ignition Coils with molded-in Module. FYI - All self-energizing solid state electronic ignition coils/modules require a self-grounding OFF-ON toggle/flip kill switch to short circuit the primary windings in the coil to shut off the engine. They do not need 12 volts of power because this will instantly burn up the coil. And save the spark plug wire off the defective coil. It has a metal core conductor, and with a battery coil terminal and rubber boot installed, it can be used in a battery-powered ignition system.

Solid State Electronic Ignition Coil with molded-in Module. Fits Kohler Magnum engine model M8. NOTE: Use with a new Autolite or Champion non-resistor/copper core spark plug of the correct type gapped at .025" for longer coil life. Install with spark plug wire facing engine block as shown in picture to the right.

  • High quality aftermarket. $61.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 41 584 03-S. $114.44 each, plus shipping & handling.


Solid State Electronic Ignition Coil with molded-in Module. Fits Kohler Magnum engine models M10, M12, M14 and M16. NOTE: Use with a new Autolite or Champion non-resistor/copper core spark plug of the correct type gapped at .025" for longer coil life. Install with spark plug wire facing engine block as shown in picture to the right.

  • High quality aftermarket. $60.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 47 584 03-S. $114.44 each, plus shipping & handling.


Solid State Electronic Ignition Coil with molded-in Module. Fits Kohler Magnum opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engine models MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. NOTE: Use with new Autolite or Champion non-resistor/copper core spark plugs of the correct type gapped at .015" for longer coil life. Install with spark plug wires facing outward. Coil may fail prematurely in competition pulling with wide open throttle operation. Use crank-trigger ignition instead.

  • High quality aftermarket. $60.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 52 584 02-S. $196.30 each, plus shipping and handing.
Self-Energizing Solid State Electronic Ignition Coil with molded-in Magnetron™ Module. Fits Briggs and Stratton horizontal and vertical shaft opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engines. NOTE: Use with new Autolite or Champion non-resistor/copper core spark plugs of the correct type gapped at .015" for longer coil life. FYI - Any self-generating solid state ignition coil/modules requires a self-grounding OFF-ON toggle/flip kill switch to short circuit the primary windings in the coil to shut off the engine. They do not need 12 volts of power because this will burn it up. And save the spark plug wires off the defective coil. They have a metal core conductor, and with a battery coil terminal and rubber boot installed, they can be used in a battery-powered ignition system.
  • High quality aftermarket. $35.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Briggs and Stratton part #'s 392329, 394891, 394988, 590781. $45.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Self-Energizing Magneto Ignition Coil. Fits all Kohler engine models K91 with magneto ignition. Spark plug wire (not included) inserts into coil. NOTE: Usually, the point gap on these engines sets at .020", but sometimes it will need to be set as close as .015" just to produce a spark. But this coil should produce a stronger spark when used with a Universal Solid State Electronic Ignition Module (see above). The short wire on the coil is for ground, the longer wire connects to the ignition points and condenser/capacitor or Universal Solid State Electronic Ignition Module, and may need to be made longer depending on your application. Dimensions: .500" x .500" square hole (across flats) x 1.700" O.D. x 1.080" length. How magneto coils produce a spark.
  • High quality aftermarket. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # 220435-S. $45.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Self-Energizing Magneto Ignition Coil. Fits various Kohler engine models K141, K161 and K181 with coil mounted on U-shaped ignition stator on bearing plate underneath flywheel with magnet rotor on crankshaft. Will also fit various larger cast iron block Clinton engines with coil mounted on cylinder, above flywheel. For longevity of this coil, use a non-resistor/copper core spark plug [Autolite or Champion] gapped at .025". Spark plug wire not included. This coil should produce a stronger spark when used with a Universal Solid State Electronic Ignition Module (see above). Dimensions: 1.750" diameter x 1.450" length x .505" square hole.
  • New Old Stock. Discontinued OEM Kohler part # 231718-S. $137.00 each, plus shipping & handing.

NOTE: The magneto coil wrapped with varnish-coated paper (Kohler part # 210293), and the ignition stator assembly and ring shown above È are Discontinued from Kohler. If you have an engine without these parts and you can't locate them from any source, your only option is to convert the engine to the battery-powered ignition system. A small motorcycle battery or a rechargeable 12 volt sealed lead acid (SLA) battery with a minimum 4AH (Amp Hour) rating will need to be required to power the ignition, and with no charging system, a portable battery charger will need to be used to keep the battery fully charged when the tractor is not in use so the ignition will produce a strong spark. Avoid using a high-output/performance coil because these draw more power from the battery.

Magneto Ignition Coils for certain Kohler K-series engine models K181, K241, K301, K321 and K341 with points, condenser/capacitor and coil located underneath flywheel. Common with engines mounted to a generator or welder. For longevity of the coils below, use a non-resistor/copper core spark plug [Autolite or Champion] gapped at .025". This coil should produce a stronger spark when used with a Universal Solid State Electronic Ignition Module (see above).
  • High Quality Aftermarket Universal Magneto Coil. Spark plug wire molded in coil and protrudes opposite side of OEM Kohler coil. NOTE: This universal coil can be substituted for the obsolete OEM Kohler part # 275756 coil by grinding down the laminations to 1/2" x 1/2" square. Do not grind out inside of coil! To secure coil on laminations, bend one lamination over end of coil. Replaces Tecumseh part # 30560A. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler Coil Without Retaining Clip. Spark plug wire NOT included with coil. Reuse existing spark plug wire. If the spark plug wire will not pull out of the old coil, simply cut it off close to the coil, and use Super Glue to secure it in the new coil. To secure coil on laminations, bend one lamination over end of coil. OEM Kohler part # 47 145 02-S. $143.70 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler Coil With Retaining Clip. Spark plug wire NOT included with coil. Reuse existing spark plug wire. If the spark plug wire will not pull out of the old coil, simply cut it off close to the coil, and use Super Glue to secure it in the new coil. To secure coil on laminations, bend one lamination over end of coil. OEM Kohler part # 47 755 20-S. $148.85 each, plus shipping & handling.
Ignition Coils for Kohler engine models K141, K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341 and K361, and other various makes and models of small engines (Tecumseh, etc.) with a 12 volt ignition ignition system. Each can be used with ignition points and condenser or A-1 Miller's custom crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition systems. NOTE: Most failures of battery ignition coils is caused by overcharging of the electrical system due to a defective solid state electronic voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery. Or the use of aged and deteriorated suppression/carbon-core spark plug wire and/or an old resistor type spark plug will also cause a good coil to eventually fail because the secondary windings within the coil must build up more voltage, which cause the windings to overheat and eventually burn up from producing excessive voltage to fire the plug. Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging system. IMPORTANT - All coils will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON [security] key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system.


High Quality, High Energy Small-Size Epoxy Encapsulated 12 Volt Ignition Coil w/3.5 ohm internal primary resistor, integrated metal core spark plug wire, and mounting hardware. Ideal for a confined engine compartment with limited space and no place to mount a full size canister coil. Can be used for general yard and garden engines, or for competition pulling with battery ignition points and low capacity condenser, or with crank trigger ignition. Coil can withstand high engine vibrations. Dimensions - overall length of laminations: 3-1/2" x diameter of coil body: 1-1/4" x widest width of coil body: 1-1/2" x mounting hole spacing: 3-1/8" x length of spark plug wire: 13-1/2". To install, drill two 7/32" holes outside of flywheel shroud next to carburetor or above starter gear and fasten with two supplied spacers and screws with matching nuts welded to inside of flywheel shroud. (Once installed, coil will look factory-installed.) Use #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors when connecting wires to this coil terminals. For longevity of this coil, use a non-resistor/copper core spark plug [Autolite or Champion] gapped at .025". $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


Used, Tested and in excellent condition. Standard/Full Size 12 Volt Canister-Type Oil-Filled Ignition Coil w/3.0 or 4.0 ohm internal primary resistor and mounting bracket. 20,000 volts output. Use with medium capacity condenser. For longevity of the coil, use a metal core spark plug wire and a non-resistor/copper core spark plug [Autolite or Champion] gapped at .035". Comes with a 90 day limited warranty. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
New Aftermarket Black Casing Standard/Full Size 12 Volt Canister-Type Oil-Filled Ignition Coil w/3.0 ohm internal primary resistor and mounting bracket. 20,000 volts output. Use with medium capacity condenser. For longevity of the coil, use a metal core spark plug wire and a non-resistor/copper core spark plug [Autolite or Champion] gapped at .035". Replaces Kohler part # 41 519 21-S. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
New Aftermarket Aluminum Casing Standard/Full Size 12 Volt Canister-Type Oil-Filled Ignition Coil w/3.0 ohm internal primary resistor and mounting bracket. 20,000 volts output. Use with medium capacity condenser. For longevity of the coil, use a metal core spark plug wire and a non-resistor/copper core spark plug [Autolite or Champion] gapped at .035". Replaces Kohler part # 41 519 21-S. $35.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
OEM Kohler Coil, part # 41 519 21-S. Replaces John Deere part # AM38411 and Tecumseh part # 32080. $88.61 each, plus shipping & handling.
New High-Output/Performance Bosch Blue Standard/Full Size 12 Volt Canister-Type Ignition Coil w/3.0 ohm internal primary resistor and mounting bracket. 30,000 volts output. Vibration-Resistant Epoxy-Filled. For longevity of the coil, use a metal core spark plug wire and a non-resistor/copper core spark plug [Autolite or Champion] gapped at .060". Use with ignition points and two medium capacity condensers/capacitors or one high capacity/performance ignition condenser/capacitor for full coil saturation and a strong spark so engine will rev up to full speed, or can be used with ignition points and condenser or A-1 Miller's custom crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition kits. Set spark plug gap at .060" with this coil. This genuine Bosch blue coil is epoxy filled with a steel casing. All epoxy filled or molded epoxy coils will hold up to severe vibrations, can be mounted in any position and will not leak oil (because there is no oil). $60.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
New 1.6 Ohm Ballast Resistor for use with any 12 volt ignition coil not having an internal resistor (above È) to prevent excessive burning of points contacts, or use with the Chrysler / Dodge / Plymouth electronic ignition control module/unit, or connect with coil having a minimum 1.4 ohm internal primary resistor to prevent burning up the Dynatek Dyna S electronic ignition control modules. Install between the coil positive (+) terminal and wire coming from the ignition switch to the coil. This will allow the points to possibly last the life of the engine. NOTE: Ignition resistors with a higher ohms value are known as "Point Savers." The higher the ohms resistance in an ignition coil or a ballast resistor has, the longer the ignition points will last (as long as the points are installed clean, and doesn't become contaminated with dust, oil, water, etc.). Any 12 volt ignition coil with an 3+ ohm internal primary resistor connected to a minimum 1.6 ohm ballast resistor when used in a points and condenser/capacitor ignition system will allow the points to possibly last the life of the engine. Because the increased resistance allows a very low current/voltage to pass through the contacts in the points. Also, a suppression/carbon-core spark plug wire and resistor type spark plug shouldn't be used in this system due to overheating of the ignition coil. Therefore, it's best that a high temperature metal core conductor spark plug wire and non-resistor/copper core spark plug be used. The ignition system will still produce a strong spark because an average small engine requires only a fraction of voltage from the coil. This is best to used with general lawn and garden, snow removal, etc., and not for competitive pulling. Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging system. $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Battery Ignition Coils for Kohler twin cylinder engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II. Can also be used on Kohler twin cylinder engine models K482, K532, K582, K660/K662, Onan twin cylinder engines or Harley-Davidson motorcycles with a fabricated bracket. Each coil below produce a strong spark, and can be used with ignition points and condenser or A-1 Miller's custom crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition kits. IMPORTANT: For longevity of the coils below, use metal core spark plug wires and copper core spark plugs [Autolite or Champion] gapped at .025" each. And most failures of battery-powered ignition coils is caused by the use of resistor type spark plugs and/or overcharging of the electrical system due to a defective solid state electronic voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery which will cause a good coil to eventually fail because the secondary windings within the coil overheat and eventually burn up from producing excessive voltage to fire the plug(s). Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging system. IMPORTANT - All coils will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON [security] key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system.

High quality, high energy epoxy encapsulated universal 4.0 ohm ignition coil with molded-in dual metal conductor spark plug wires. Can withstand high engine vibrations. 20,000 volts output. For longevity of this coil, use non-resistor/copper core spark plugs [Autolite or Champion] gapped at .025" each. Coil dimensions: 4" overall length including mounting bracket x 2-1/8" body width x 15" low tension wires x (2) molded-in 24" length spark plug wires (can be shortened if desired). Two 90º spark plug terminals and boots included. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

High quality chrome-plated high energy 4.0 ohm oil filled ignition coil with dual metal core conductor spark plug wires. Same diameter as OEM Kohler coil. 20,000 volts output. For longevity of this coil, use non-resistor/copper core spark plugs [Autolite or Champion] gapped at .025" each. Includes: (1) dual tower chrome-plated ignition coil, (2) rubber spark plug wire grommets, (2) plastic thread-on coil boots, (2) 90º spark plug boots w/terminals, and (2) 18" length spark plug wires (can be shortened if desired). Coil dimensions: 4-1/4" length (excluding towers) x 2-1/8" body width x 2-1/4" tower end band width. Replaces Kohler part # 52 755 48-S. $64.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

High quality epoxy encapsulated aftermarket high energy 4.0 ohm ignition coil with metal core conductor spark plug wires. For longevity of this coil, use non-resistor/copper core spark plugs [Autolite or Champion] gapped at .025" each. Same appearance and dimensions as OEM Kohler coil. Replaces Kohler part # 52 755 48-S. $62.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

OEM Kohler coil with spark plug wires; part # 52 755 48-S. $286.05 each, plus shipping and handing.


High Quality, High Energy Epoxy Encapsulated, Battery-Powered Ignition Coils for Kohler twin cylinder engine models K482, K532, K582, K660/K662 and Harley-Davidson motorcycles. Can also be used on Kohler twin cylinder engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II or Onan twin cylinder engines with a fabricated bracket. Either coil below can be used with ignition points and condenser or A-1 Miller's custom crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition kits. Long terminal/stud connects to ignition switch, short terminal/stud connects to points and a low capacity condenser, or electronic ignition module. For longevity of the coil, use metal core spark plug wires and non-resistor/copper core spark plugs [Autolite or Champion] with the gap set at .025" each. NOTE: Coil mounting bracket not included - discontinued from Kohler; if needed, new mounting holes can be drilled through coil's laminations next to existing holes to match the holes in OEM Kohler mounting plate, or new holes can be drilled in the OEM Kohler mounting plate to match the holes in the Harley coil. And there is no positive (+) or negative (–) connections on the two small terminals. They can be connected either way. And most failures of battery-powered ignition coils is caused by overcharging of the electrical system due to a defective solid state electronic voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery will cause a good coil to eventually fail because the secondary windings within the coil overheat and eventually burn up from producing excessive voltage to fire the plug(s). Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging system. Use each coil with new Autolite or Champion non-resistor/copper core spark plugs of the correct type gapped at .025" each and with metal core conductor spark plug wires for longer coil life. IMPORTANT - All coils will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON [security] key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system.

  • High quality aftermarket 12 volt coil with 5.0 ohm internal primary resistor; 20,000 volts output; suitable for use with points and standard capacity condenser/capacitor or crank-trigger electronic ignition. $55.00 each, plus shipping & handing.
  • High quality aftermarket 12 volt coil with 3.0 ohm internal primary resistor; 30,000 volts output; suitable for use with points and high capacity condenser/capacitor or crank-trigger electronic ignition. $55.00 each, plus shipping & handing.
  • OEM Kohler Coil, part # 277375-S. $293.10 each, plus shipping and handing.

Metal Core Conductor Spark Plug Wires for Kohler engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532, K582, K660/K662, or Onan twin cylinder engines. 14" and 18" length each.

  • High quality aftermarket. $15.00 for two spark plug wires, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 48 348 04-S. $23.65 for two spark plug wires, plus shipping & handling.
High Performance Copper or Metal Core 7mm Spark Plug Wire Assemblies for Kohler engine models K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341 and K361, or KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532, K582 (with wires cut to correct length) and other makes and models of small engines with a 12 volt ignition ignition system. Universal design for many applications. Stranded copper or metal wire delivers maximum energy with zero ohms resistance to the spark plug, which allows ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. Solid brass terminals for maximum conductivity and corrosion resistance. Quality rubber boots keep out dirt and moisture for fast starts. Engineered for reliability and long life. Spring-lock terminals insure positive and fold for extra secure connection through the toughest conditions and multiple spark plug changes. Can be used for general lawn & garden, or for competition pulling. Don't be fooled by the dark color, these wires provide 100% voltage to the spark plug! Each come with terminals, one straight coil boot and one angled spark plug boot, as shown in the image to the right.
  • 10" length with 90º/angled spark plug boot/terminal and straight coil boot/terminal installed. Fits Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321 and K341 with coil mounted high on flywheel shroud next to carburetor. High quality aftermarket. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 13" length with 90º/angled spark plug boot/terminal and straight coil boot/terminal installed. Fits Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) engine models K241, K301, K321, K341 and K361 with coil mounted above starter motor. Also fits Kohler engine models K161, K181, K241, K301 and K321 with coil mounted low on flywheel shroud on carburetor side of engine. High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 238057-S. $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 22" or cut to desired length. Includes 90º/angled spark plug boot/terminal and straight coil boot/terminal. High quality aftermarket. $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 13" length. OEM Kohler part # 238057-S. $43.10 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 25-1/2" length. OEM Kohler part # 25 348 01-S. $13.65 each, plus shipping & handling.

90º/Angled 7mm Spark Plug Boot and Terminal. No need to purchase a new spark plug wire assembly. Prong in terminal penetrates center conductor of spark plug wire, then securely crimp terminal around spark plug wire with pliers. No need to strip the insulation and bend the center conductor over for contact. Use lubricating grease to install on spark plug wire. This part can also be used to replace the boot/terminal with an integrated resistor on certain solid state ignition coil spark plug wires for a stronger spark and so the coil will last longer. Terminal not available from Kohler. Boot discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # 220791-S. High quality product. $1.75 for boot and terminal, plus shipping & handling.

Straight Brass Ignition Coil Terminal. Fits female coil towers. No need to purchase a new spark plug wire assembly. Center prong penetrates conductor in spark plug wire. No need to strip the insulation and bend the center conductor over for contact. Not available from Kohler. High quality product. .50¢ each, plus shipping & handling.

Straight 7mm Ignition Coil Boots. No need to purchase a new spark plug wire assembly. Each made of high quality neoprene rubber. Use lubricating grease to install on spark plug wire. Neither available from Kohler. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]

  • Fits 5/8" diameter coil tower. (Most high-output/performance coils.) .75¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Fits 3/4" diameter coil tower. (Most standard-output/stock coils.) .50¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
Complete Battery-Powered Ignition Conversion Kits - When Kohler's OEM magneto or Breakerless Ignition fails, the engine can be converted to a battery-powered ignition system. Battery-powered ignition systems last longer, produces a stronger spark, and when a part goes bad, it doesn't cost much to replace. It's a reliable, simple design and there's no guesswork about it. FYI: Battery-powered ignition conversion kits are intended mainly for various older engines when the OEM magneto or Breakerless Ignition no longer produce a spark, replacement parts are not available, are very expensive or cost prohibitive. (Sometimes one must improvise when certain parts are obsolete.) Also, the most hassle when using battery-powered ignition without a charging system integrated with the engine to recharge the battery is the use of a remote battery charger. And eventually a new battery will need to be purchased, because they only last a few years. For a battery to power the ignition, a small, lightweight and rechargeable 12 volt sealed lead acid (SLA) battery with a minimum 4Ah (Amp Hour) rating or a small motorcycle battery can be used.

FYI - Kohler's Breakerless Ignition and Tecumseh's (cast iron engine) Solid State Ignition (SSI) systems use a [security] key switch that's also made for a self-energizing magneto or magneto-type solid state ignition system. Unlike the key switch for a battery-powered ignition system, the Breakerless Ignition is self-energizing, and to kill the engine, the key switch grounds out or shorts the [low voltage] circuit between the energizing coil and ignition module. And the battery-powered key switch opens the circuit to kill the engine. So with the battery-powered points and condenser ignition system (along with a 12 volt coil), you will need to use a battery-powered key switch, or an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or [security] key switch to power the ignition and a momentary push button switch to crank the engine could be used instead. If swapping out the OEM Breakerless Ignition, SSI, magneto or solid state ignition key switch for a battery-powered ignition key switch, the wire connectors in the wiring harness plug will need to be rearranged to match the terminals on the key switch to power the ignition, crank the engine and run other electrical accessories. I've done this before on some of my customer's garden tractors and it works great. Click or tap here for battery-powered ignition wiring diagrams.

Personally, I had a customer's John Deere model 110 with a K181 Kohler engine with magneto ignition and a 10 amp alternator charging system (the ignition coil and charging coils was on the same stator plate) in our shop for repairs. The engine would start right up and idle well, but not rev up. It would just die out when throttled up. So I cleaned the entire carburetor, including clearing out anything that may have been in the main jet, tried a new Autolite 295 copper core spark plug gapped at .025", installed a new magneto ignition coil, different flywheel, different stator assembly, but the engine would still die out, no matter what. The OEM magneto ignition/charging system would not produce a strong spark, which wouldn't allow the engine to rev up. This ignition system is obviously a notorious, poor design from Kohler. Although this ignition/charging system is still available from Kohler, Kohler discontinued installing this on their engines only after a short time (for an obvious reason). Anyway, I had no choice but to convert the engine to the more reliable battery-powered ignition system. Being the 110 has a confined engine compartment with limited space, there is no place to mount a full size canister coil. So I fastened a new small size epoxy encapsulated 12 volt 3.5 ohm ignition coil on the carburetor side of the flywheel shroud sheet metal. I removed the flywheel shroud, located where to drill two 7/32" holes to mount the coil, and tack-welded a couple of 10-24 UNC or 10-32 UNF nuts to the inside of the shroud. Then I used a couple of spacers for the coil, and fastened the coil to the shroud with a couple of matching 10-24 UNC or 10-32 UNF screws with split lock washers. (The coil looked nice on the engine, like it is factory installed.) I could have tack-welded the head of the screws on the inside of the flywheel shroud instead, and fastened the coil with a couple of nuts on the screws from the outside. Either way would've worked fine. Anyway, then I replaced the OEM 110 off-ignition-start magneto key switch with a new battery-powered off-ignition-start key switch. I traced each wire from the OEM key switch and rearranged the slide-on spade connectors in the plastic connector housing on the switch to match the terminals on the battery-powered key switch and connected the "I" terminal on the switch to the (+) terminal on the coil so the ignition system will work. I also reused the same ignition points and [small size] condenser with this small size coil. (My customer previously installed new points and condenser.) The magneto ignition condenser worked great with the small coil. I set the spark plug gap at .030" with this small coil. When I finished, the engine started right up, idled smoothly, and revved up at full RPM with no hesitation or misfire. If you have a similar ignition problem like this and if you're interested, I offer all the parts, including a new small size epoxy encapsulated 12 volt 3.5 ohm ignition coil, that can be used to convert the magneto ignition to battery-powered ignition in your tractor. See the complete ignition conversion kit(s) below. I also can convert your tractor from a faulty magneto ignition to the more reliable battery-powered ignition if you don't mind bringing your tractor to my shop. - Brian Miller Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the parts or items in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page]
Convert virtually any single cylinder, air-cooled cast iron or various aluminum block small gas engine, such as Kohler, Tecumseh, Briggs & Stratton, Clinton, etc., with a failed magneto ignition system to the battery-powered ignition system. NOTE: Must use a universal automotive off/ignition/start key switch, or a push-button switch to crank the engine with an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or [security] key switch to power this ignition. Reuse same type of spark plug and existing ignition points (if in good condition), but set the point gap at .020" or set ignition timing at 20º BTDC. See ignition kits and wiring diagram below Ê.


Ignition Kit to Convert from Kohler Magneto Ignition to Battery-Powered Ignition for a Confined Engine Compartment with Limited Space and no place to mount a full size canister coil. A fully charged 12 volt battery is required for this ignition system. Designed for Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331 and K341. When ordering, please indicate model of engine. New parts include: high energy 12 volt small size epoxy encapsulated ignition coil w/3.5 ohm internal primary resistor and integrated metal core spark plug wire, with mounting spacers/screws/nuts; low capacity condenser/capacitor; ignition points; points cover gasket; 9" length "assemble-it-yourself" 16 gauge coil-to-points wire w/terminals (reuse original points cover/wire grommet); and new spark plug. When ordering, please specify model of engine for correct type of spark plug. Dimensions of coil - overall length of laminations: 3-1/2" x diameter of coil body: 1-1/4" x widest width of coil body: 1-1/2" x mounting hole spacing: 3-1/8" x length of spark plug wire: 13-1/2". To install coil, drill two 7/32" holes outside of flywheel shroud next to carburetor or above starter gear and fasten with two supplied spacers and screws with matching nuts welded to inside of flywheel shroud. (Once installed, coil will look factory-installed.) Use #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors when connecting wires to this coil terminals. Set spark plug gap at .030" with this system. IMPORTANT - Either a 12 volt battery-ignition OFF-ON-START key switch, a momentary push button switch (to crank the engine) with an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition) MUST be used with this type of ignition system. Go here for choice of switches. The original magneto coil can be removed from the stator. It will not be needed. If the stator has charging coils, leave them installed and connected so they can recharge the battery and power electrical accessories. IMPORTANT - All coils will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system.

  • Complete Ignition Kit above without switches. (Customer supplies own switches.) $59.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Complete Ignition Kit above with OFF-ON-START battery-ignition key switch. $74.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Complete Ignition Kit above with OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or an OFF-ON key switch (to power the ignition) and momentary push button switch (to crank the engine). $74.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling..


Ignition Kit to Convert from Kohler Magneto Ignition to Battery-Powered Ignition for an Unconfined Engine Compartment with Unlimited Space for mounting of a full size canister coil. A fully charged 12 volt battery is required for this ignition system. Designed for Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331 and K341. When ordering, please indicate model of engine. New parts include: full size canister-type 12 volt ignition coil w/3.0 ohm internal primary resistor and mounting bracket, 11" length metal core conductor spark plug wire, medium capacity condenser/capacitor, ignition points, points cover gasket, 12" length "assemble-it-yourself" 16 gauge coil-to-points wire w/terminals (reuse original points cover/wire grommet), and new spark plug (please specify model of engine when ordering for correct type of spark plug). Set spark plug gap at .035" with this system. IMPORTANT - Either an OFF-ON-START battery-ignition key switch or an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition) and a momentary push button switch (to crank the engine) MUST be used with this type of ignition system. Go here for choice of switches. And the original magneto coil can be removed from the stator. It will not be needed. If the stator has charging coils, leave them installed and connected so they can recharge the battery and power electrical accessories. IMPORTANT - All coils will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system.

  • Complete Ignition Kit above without switches. (Customer supplies own switches.) $66.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Complete Ignition Kit above with OFF-ON-START battery-ignition key switch. $81.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Complete Ignition Kit above with OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or an OFF-ON key switch (to power the ignition) and momentary push button switch (to crank the engine). $81.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.


[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]

Click or Tap Here for 100% Maintenance-Free, Electronic Ignition Systems That Operate Off the Flywheel End of a Lawn & Garden Small Engine - Eliminates Points and Condenser.

Click or Tap Here for 100% Maintenance-Free, Crank-Trigger Electronic Ignition Systems That Operate Off the PTO End of a Competition Pulling Small Engine - Eliminates Points and Condenser.

New points, condensers/capacitors, coils and spark plugs for other makes and models of engines are also available. Please call or email A-1 Miller's for your needs. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the parts or items in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page]


100% Maintenance-Free, Electronic Ignition Systems That Operate Off the Flywheel End of a Lawn & Garden Small Engine - Eliminates Points and Condenser

Get That Old, Antique Small Engine Running Again with 21st Century Technology Using 100% Reliable Digital Electronic Ignition, Even When New Placement Parts Are Obsolete or Cost-Prohibited! Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the parts or items in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page]

This is the era of modern wonders, where everything is transistorized, digitized and miniaturized. Yet even today, many garden tractor pullers still use breaker point ignitions on their garden pulling tractors. For other people, the frustration of attempting to keep a breaker point-fired tractor in peak running condition has been enough of a reason to join the electronic era. Breaker point systems do have some positives, though. Points are cheap and somewhat easy to install. And many people are comfortable with installing their own points. The bad side of using points is, besides the points contacts burning, pitting and wearing out, if or when the point gap gets too narrow, the ignition timing can get retarded, and when it gets too wide, the timing will become too advanced.

When the timing is retarded, the engine may be difficult to start, and when does start, it may not idle well, and it'll lack sufficient power. Also, with retarded timing, all of the fuel in the combustion chamber will not be burned. Part of the raw fuel will exit out of the exhaust, while the rest will remain in the chamber combustion and cling to the cylinder wall, causing the lubricating oil (from the crankcase) to become diluted. When this happens, "cylinder wash down" will result. Cylinder wash down is when the gas dilutes the thin coat of oil on the cylinder wall, and the piston rings will no longer be adequately lubricated, causing them to wear excessively, resulting in a smoky engine overtime. Cylinder wash down can also happen to a diesel engine when the fuel injectors are "turned up" or fuel delivery is increased so the engine will produce more power. (It will also blow a lot more black smoke out the exhaust.)

But when the ignition timing is too advanced, this will cause the engine to run too hot, which will likely cause the piston to swell, allowing it to make metal to metal contact against the cylinder wall, causing excessive wear. And the rings will lose their expansion against the cylinder wall as well. Eventually, due to the lose-fitting piston in the cylinder, the engine will create a rattling sound and start smoking out the exhaust, and it will ultimately need to be rebuilt.

If installed correctly, when the ignition is triggered by the flywheel, this stabilizes the ignition timing, so you won't ever have to worry about it changing. The engine will produce more power and you will have more confidence that the engine will last longer. So for the utmost precision ignition timing and maintenance-free convenience, flywheel-trigger electronic ignition is the way to go! This ignition system produces a strong spark. It will allow the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly, rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or misfire and produce more power.

Tired of changing or constantly adjusting the ignition points? Convert to the 100% digitized flywheel-trigger electronic ignition! For improved performance, easier starting, and less moving parts to leave your tractor dead on the track. Shock and moisture resistant, and all it takes is a few simple hand tools to install. In my opinion, getting rid of the points and condenser/capacitor has been the best advance ever in engine technology.

FYI - Kohler's Breakerless Ignition and Tecumseh's (cast iron engine) Solid State Ignition (SSI) systems use a key switch that's also made for a self-energizing magneto or magneto-type solid state ignition system. Unlike the key switch for a battery-powered ignition system, the Breakerless Ignition is self-energizing, and to kill the engine, the key switch grounds out or shorts the [low voltage] circuit between the energizing coil and ignition module. And the battery-powered key switch opens the circuit to kill the engine. So with the battery-powered points and condenser ignition system (along with a 12 volt coil), you will need to use a battery-powered key switch, or an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or [security] key switch to power the ignition and a momentary push button switch to crank the engine could be used instead. If swapping out the OEM Breakerless Ignition, SSI, magneto or solid state ignition key switch for a battery-powered ignition key switch, the wire connectors in the wiring harness plug will need to be rearranged to match the terminals on the key switch to power the ignition, crank the engine and run other electrical accessories. I've done this before on some of my customer's garden tractors and it works great. Click or tap here for battery-powered ignition wiring diagrams.

FYI - I've sold many various custom electronic ignition systems for the past several years and haven't received one complaint from a customer about the performance of their engine. Because I use technology that I learned from experiences with my competitive competition pulling engines to help factory stock lawn & garden engines perform better. And as a matter of fact, other people have emailed me or called me to complain to me about my competitor's Tecumseh replacement ignition systems. They said their tech help was of no use. No joke. Apparently, my competitors haven't quite figured it out yet.


Solid State Electronic Ignition Module - | Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the parts or items in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page]
Replace the Points and Condenser in a Magneto Ignition System with a Universal Solid State Electronic Ignition Module
  • Designed to convert a self-energizing magneto ignition system into the more reliable and dependable electronic ignition. Will NOT work with 12 volt battery-powered ignition systems. Module will burn up instantly when power is supplied.
  • Upgrade the magneto ignition system on virtually any engine with the latest technology! Do away with the ignition points and condenser/capacitor (plug the points pushrod hole), and install a solid state electronic ignition module. It should be the end of your ignition problems. The ignition points and condenser/capacitor is not to be connected to the coil or module. They need to be removed from the engine and plug the ignition points pushrod hole (Briggs & Stratton or Kohler engines).
  • Universal and high performance. Improves engine performance by producing a strong spark, and by stabilizing the spark, much like my custom-made crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition does, except the detectable target is the magnets on or underneath the flywheel and the coil laminations. This module has a durable die-cast aluminum housing. Weather-proof and very reliable. Ignition timing is automatically set. Resulting in no "kick back" and no timing adjustment required. Works excellent with virtually any magneto ignition coil!
  • Suitable for use with most 2 leg or 3 leg magneto coils and with a flywheel having one or two magnets mounted internally or externally, and with coil mounted underneath or outside of flywheel. Works great regardless of the polarity of the magnets, too. Works on most lawn mowers, chain saws, trimmers, garden tillers, snow throwers, brush cutters, various one or two cylinder outboard boat motors, etc., with ignition points and condenser/capacitor ignition. But will not work with most Stihl trimmers and chain saws, or when the ignition coil is energized by a generator that gets its power from the magnet in the flywheel, such as various outboard boat motors. Usually, the coil don't need replacing when substituting the ignition points and condenser/capacitor with one of these solid state electronic ignition modules. If the engine ran, then the coil is obviously good.
  • Works only with magneto type ignition coils originally connected to contact ignition points and a condenser/capacitor. They will not work with solid state electronic ignition (CDI) coils, battery ignition coils or with flywheels having a ring of magnets mounted internally to which the ignition coil (mounted underneath flywheel also) operates off of, such as the bigger aluminum block Tecumseh engines (8hp and up). Engines can't start under full compression and with advanced ignition timing. One or the other must be "suppressed" in order for the engine to crank over without "kicking back" to start. Either it needs to have an automatic compression release to relieve about half the compression, then the compression will return to full upon start up, or the timing needs to be positioned at TDC, then it can automatically advance upon start up. (With the module, as each magnet pass the coil, it'll produce a spark. And if the spark don't occur at the precise time with the piston at a certain position in the cylinder, the engine will either "kick back" or will not run.) "Kick back" occurs when the crankshaft/flywheel suddenly and quickly momentarily rotates in the opposite direction, which is could bend or break the starter armature shaft or the aluminum starter housing. If the magnets for the charging system won't interfere with the magneto coil(s), then these modules should work well. But if the magneto coil(s) operate off the same magnets for the charging system, then neither module won't work. The modules senses when the magnet pass the coil and that's when it makes the spark. If a bunch of magnets continually pass the coil, then the coil will produce an array of sparks.
  • How the timing is automatically set and how it works: First of all, with ignition points, the point gap determines where the ignition timing is set (on systems with a fixed or non-adjustable ignition coil). Therefore, the spark occurs when the magnet in the flywheel pass the coil laminations the moment the ignition points open. But with no ignition points, the magnet still pass the coil laminations at the same moment, which sends an electrical current through a transistor and electronic components within these modules. This current is sent in the form of a signal to the module; within, a transistor opens the primary circuit in the coil and the spark occurs. All this happens at the speed of electricity, which can be anywhere from about 50% to 99% of the speed of light, depending upon the quality of the electronic components and Wiring connections. Either module provides unlimited RPM. The conventional ignition points and condenser/capacitor ignition system is less responsive.
  • This module should work very well with most magneto ignition coils. However, a new coil is recommended to use with this module. If a used coil is utilized, a weak spark may occur. This module is not for use on engines equipped with battery ignition, solid state electronic ignition coil/module or multiple magnets under the flywheel with ignition coil under the flywheel, too. Scroll down for wiring diagrams and installation instructions Ê.

Wiring Diagram and Installation Instructions for Universal Solid State Electronic Magneto Ignition Module are as follows:

  1. Fasten the module to the engine sheet metal that has plenty of cool air circulation with the supplied mounting screw.
  2. Connect the supplied wire to one of the terminals on the module and to engine ground.
  3. The ignition coil has two small wires coming out of it. Leave the original (short) wire connected (grounded) to the stator laminations, and connect the wire that went to the points and condenser to the unused terminal on the module.
  4. Remove the spark plug from the cylinder head, and connect the high tension coil wire to a new spark plug positioned on a (grounded) metal part of the engine.
  5. Crank the engine rapidly, and at the same time, observe for a blue, snappy spark. If there's no spark, try reversing the two wires on the module. (This is due to reverse polarity in the flywheel magnet.)
NOTE: The alternative to using either of the items below is to remove the ignition points and points pushrod, and place the pushrod on a hard, flat surface, and use a hammer and sharp flat cold chisel to lightly create knurled raised marks midway on the pushrod. Then reinstall the pushrod in the engine block with the hammer. The knurling will retain the pushrod in the hole.

3/16" Plug to Replace Kohler Points Pushrod. Use in Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, K482, K532 and K582 when converting from magneto to solid state ignition (above), Magnum solid state ignition, flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition (further down in this website). Install with a medium size hammer; fits very tight. OEM Briggs & Stratton part #'s 231143, 692882. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Block-Off Plate to Cover Kohler Points Pushrod Hole. Use in Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582 when converting from magneto to solid state ignition (above), Magnum solid state ignition, or flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition (further down in this website). Made of 1/8" thickness aluminum or steel. Apply RTV silicone sealant to prevent oil leak and use OEM ignition points mounting screws to secure in place. A-1 Miller part. $4.00 each, plus shipping & handling. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.) [Return to previous paragraph, section or website]


Convert the Points/Condenser Ignition System on a Kohler Engine with an 8" Flywheel and Starter/Generator to a Maintenance-Free Flywheel-Triggered Electronic Ignition System -

Flywheel-Trigger Ignition Kit for Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301 and K321 with the small (8") diameter flywheel and starter/generator. The PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor electronic ignition sends more energy to the coil, which delivers twice the voltage to the spark plug, increasing horsepower, engine efficiency and spark plug life. Hall Effect integrated circuit means no points to burn, and no moving parts to wear out. Epoxy molding makes the module impervious to dirt, oil, grease and moisture. Stable timing - no need for any adjustments. This simple and reliable ignition system produces a strong spark, and the ignition timing will always be set at the factory recommended 20º BTDC, or wherever you set it. This system can be used on ordinary lawn & garden engines or for competition pulling engines (if rules permit). This ignition system may outlast the life of the engine. This revolutionizes the ignition system for older cast iron block Kohler engines with the starter/generator and 8" flywheel! The PerTronix Ignitor must be used with a minimum 3.0 ohm coil or it may burn up. Most small engine battery ignition coils have a 3.0 ohm internal primary resistor. But test your coil just to make sure! Click or tap here to learn how to test the ohms resistance in a coil.

  • Compact and out-of-the-way design. Sensor/module fits under the flywheel shroud and fastens to the bearing plate. No "bulky ignition box" and wiring to clutter the engine compartment.
  • Stable ignition timing with solid state electronic circuitry. No points to burn or wear, and no need for adjustment... ever!
  • Epoxy molded sealed sensor/module makes this part impervious to dirt, oil, grease and moisture.
  • 2:1 improvement over points in current fall time for increased coil output.
  • Compatible with most ignition coils with a minimum of 0.3 ohms primary resistance. IMPORTANT - Do not use a coil of lesser ohms resistance because it may cause the module to burn up.
  • This type of electronic ignition sends more energy to the coil, which delivers twice the voltage to the spark plug, increasing horsepower, engine efficiency and spark plug life. It allows the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly, rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or misfire and produce more power. Cold weather engine start-up energy boost and maintains peak energy throughout the entire engine RPM.
  • An innovative and ingenious design and concept by Brian Miller.

Kit includes: New hall effect PerTronix Ignitor sensor/module, aluminum spacer, thermal grease and mounting screws, small ring magnet/rubber cushioning/isolator washer/mounting screw (weighs 1/10 oz. / 6 grams), and plug for the points pushrod hole. Complete Kit: $96.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Directions to Install This Kit -

  1. Remove the points and condenser and block-off the points pushrod hole with the supplied plug.
  2. Align or center the S timing mark on the flywheel with the timing sight hole in the bearing plate, and draw a line on the edge of and lengthways with the flywheel at the 10:30 position.
  3. Draw another line 1" from the bearing plate crossways with the line on the flywheel. The magnet/cushioning washer/screw will install where the two lines intersect. This spot will allow the magnet to clear the flywheel shroud mounting boss on the bearing plate located at the 4:30 position.
  4. Drill and tap 6-32 UNC (coarse thread) threads in the flywheel and install the magnet with the supplied rubber cushioning/isolator washer and screw where the two drawn lines intersect. IMPORTANT - The module/sensor is activated by the South pole of the magnet, so do not remove the magnet from the screw. And use caution when handling rare earth/neodymium magnets. They are very brittle and can break when snapped onto something or when the screw is overtightened. Secure the screw threads with high strength liquid threadlocker (Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent), and when installing the magnet/screw/rubber washer on the flywheel, tighten it just until the rubber washer begins to bulge. FYI - Store a container of liquid threadlocker or Super Glue upright and not laying flat. The capped tip will not dry out and clog when stored upright.
  5. With the S mark on the flywheel aligned or centered with the timing sight hole in the bearing plate, center the Ignitor with the magnet, allow .010"-.050" clearance, mark on the bearing plate and drill and tap 6-32 UNC (coarse thread) threads in the bearing plate to mount the Ignitor and spacer. Be sure to apply thermal paste (to dissipate the operating heat) between the Ignitor module and aluminum spacer to help cool the module, and securely fasten the Ignitor module on top of the aluminum spacer to the bearing plate with the supplied 6-32 UNC (coarse thread) screws and split lock washers. IMPORTANT - Gently rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand to check and see that the module/sensor does not make contact with the screw head. Damage to the module/sensor will occur if it makes contact with the screw head!
  6. Drill a 5/16" hole through the bearing plate behind the Ignitor and route the wires from the Ignitor to the ignition coil. Bevel or chamber the drilled hole, use a rubber grommet or apply clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant in the hole and around the wires to hold the wires rigid to prevent the insulation on the wires from rubbing and possibly being shorted.
  7. Disconnect and do away with the wires to the points and condenser (plug the points pushrod hole). Connect the BLACK wire on the Ignitor to the coil negative (–) terminal, and connect the RED wire on the Ignitor to the coil positive (+) terminal and to the ignition switch (battery positive (+) post). FYI - The module is diode-protected, and will NOT burn up if the wires are connected in reverse with power supplied. But the module will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system.
  8. With an ordinary stock coil, set the spark plug gap .035" and place the spark plug on a grounded metal cover. Turn the ignition switch on, rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand so the magnet passes the Ignitor and observe for a strong, blue spark at the spark plug's tip. Click or tap here to print out these installation instructions. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.)


If a Kohler flywheel has no projection (hump) or OEM protruding bolt head for Breakerless Ignition, but does have a 3/4" wide area between the fins and ring gear (as shown in the pictures above È), or a billet steel flywheel, to use a magnetic pickup coil, 3-wire inductive (detects iron/steel) proximity sensor, a small, short steel Phillips or button head socket (Allen) Head screw and a minimum 1/4" length aluminum spacer secured with a split lock washer or high strength liquid threadlocker (Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent) can be used as the signal detection for the flywheel-trigger electronic ignition. A steel dowel pin or knurled steel pin could be used instead of a screw or spiral pin, but because of exerted centrifugal force, the screw would be more secure due to its thread retention. FYI - Store a container of liquid threadlocker or Super Glue upright and not laying flat. The capped tip will not dry out and clog when stored upright.

The curvature or dome shaped heads of button- and Phillips-head screws makes them ideal for use on a trigger disc or flywheel. Spark occurs at the leading (high side) edge of the hump or screw, and not in the center of the hump or screw. When the magnetic pickup coil or cube-shaped proximity sensor is at the leading edge of the hump and when the S mark on the flywheel is aligned with the raised mark on the bearing plate, it is at this point the timing is at 20º BTDC. But if the flywheel has the 3/4" wide area, but no projection or hump", with the magnetic pickup coil or cube-shaped proximity sensor installed on the bearing plate and the 20º BTDC mark on the flywheel aligned with the raised mark on the bearing plate.

When using an inductive proximity sensor, being proximity sensors detect a farther distance (up to 3/16") than a magnetic pickup coil, install a 3/4" length steel screw with a 1/4" length aluminum spacer (to retain flywheel balance). This will extend the detectable target 1/4" above the surface of the flywheel to prevent an out of time spark occurrence by part of the flywheel itself. Or if using a non-magnetic pickup coil, 3-wire hall effect proximity sensor or a hall effect PerTronix Ignitor sensor/module, a small ring magnet fastened by a small screw can be used to create a rotating magnet detection target. The head of the screw will become magnetized.

An 8-32 UNC (coarse thread) and 10-32 UNF (fine thread) x 1/2" length screws with a split lock washer (and small magnet) only weighs about 1/10 of an ounce or 3 grams, so this will not make the flywheel significantly noticeably or dangerously out of balance. But if you're concerned about the flywheel being out of balance with the target screw/bolt, pin or screw w/ring magnet installed, the flywheel can be static balanced by weighing the flywheel and screw/bolt, pin or screw w/ring magnet separately on a precision scale, make a note of the exact weight of each item, and either install a stainless steel screw of the same exact weight as the trigger screw and magnet on the opposite side of the flywheel (180º apart), or drill a couple of shallow holes into the flywheel next to or beside the installed target screw/bolt, pin or screw w/ring magnet to put the flywheel back in balance. Make sure the flywheel is perfectly clean of dirt and debris, too. Actually, it's best to have the flywheel with the target screw/bolt, pin or screw w/ring magnet installed dynamically precision spin-balanced on a automotive balancing machine. Again, make sure the flywheel is perfectly clean of dirt and debris.

And for the ignition timing to be set at 20º BTDC, with the S mark on the flywheel and raised line on the bearing plate aligned, the screw will need to be located at 2-3/8" when using a magnetic pickup coil or proximity sensor. This setup can be adapted to a Kohler engine with the flywheel that has the starter/generator and gear starter alike. Or it can be applied to an engine with a steel flywheel for competition pulling. And the mounting holes in the angled bracket for the magnetic pickup coil can be elongated for precise adjustment/setting of the timing. If there's already a projection (hump) or OEM protruding bolt head on the flywheel, then there's no need to modify the flywheel for this conversion or upgrade. If they're not already present, new 10-24 UNC (coarse thread) threads will need to be drilled and tapped in the two raised bosses in the bearing plate to mount the bracket for the sensor's bracket. An original, ingenious, thoroughly researched and innovative concept invented by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this for use on a small engine. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.)


Information About Converting from Kohler's Breakerless Ignition to Battery-Powered Points/Condenser Ignition: The single wire that comes from the stator under the flywheel for the Kohler Trigger Module or Tecumseh Solid State Ignition Module generates about 250 volts (serious) while the engine is running at full governed speed. Do not touch this terminal with one bare hand and the engine with your other hand while the engine is running! It is not needed for any of my custom-made crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition systems. So snip off this wire or tape up the terminal securely to prevent a short circuit or risk of electrocution. And there is a tiny brass cup/expansion plug in the points pushrod hole. This plug will need to be removed for the points pushrod. To remove this plug, carefully and gently drill a 3/32" pilot hole through the plug, then use a #6 self-tapping drywall screw (a small ordinary self-tapping screw may not work as well) with Vise-Grips or a small crowbar or pry bar to pull the plug out of the hole. Because the self-tapping drywall screw by itself may not be able to bore a hole through the plug without pushing it deeper into the drilled hole. And do not force the drill bit into the plug or it could fall inside the crankcase! And a 3/16" drill bit or hand reamer may need to be used to clean out any debris from the pushrod hole. After the points is installed, and with the piston positioned at TDC on the compression stroke, set the point gap at .020". Or better yet, set the ignition timing at 20º BTDC, and reuse the same type of spark plug gapped at .035".

Custom Electronic Ignition Kits (below) for Converting to Flywheel-Trigger Ignition for Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321, K341, K361 that came with points/condenser ignition or with Breakerless Ignition. Do away with the old fashioned points and condenser ignition, or defective and cost-prohibitive Breakerless Ignition components, and convert your engine to the reliability, dependability and durability of flywheel-trigger ignition! NOTE: Engine must have the large bearing plate with two mounting bosses to install the triggering device and 9" flywheel with 3/4" wide area with the OEM projection (hump), OEM protruding bolt head, or install a small screw/bolt (so the sensor can detect it). Must also use an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; for ignition) and momentary push-button switch (to crank the engine) for ignition system below Ê. With this ignition setup, the ignition timing will be set at 20º BTDC, and reuse same type of spark plug, but set gap at .035" for a stronger spark. IMPORTANT - On the Breakerless Ignition, the wire that comes from the stator under the flywheel generates about 250 volts (serious) while the engine is running at full governed speed. Do not touch this wire (terminal) with one bare hand and the engine with your other hand while the engine is running! This wire is not required with any of my custom flywheel-trigger electronic ignition systems. So snip off this wire or tape up the terminal to prevent a short circuit or electrocution.

Option #1 - Complete Kit to Convert from [a failed] OEM Kohler Breakerless Ignition to A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition System. This ignition system operates with full 12 volts and produces a strong spark. It will allow the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly, rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or misfire and produce more power. This ignition system may outlast the life of the engine. This revolutionizes the ignition system for older cast iron block Kohler engines! NOTE - The OEM key switch for Breakerless Ignition will not work with any battery-powered ignition systems. The switch used with Breakerless Ignition is actually a magneto ignition switch, which when the engine is shut-down, it grounds the self-energizing wire connected to the ignition system. And battery ignition requires a switch that disconnects the coil from the power source (battery). So with this ignition system, you will need either an OFF-ON-START battery-ignition key switch, or an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition) and a momentary push button switch (to crank the engine). Go here for choice of switches. To install this replacement ignition system; the ignition coil mounts in place of the Breakerless Ignition coil; the proximity cube sensor/bracket mounts in place of the Breakerless Trigger Module; and the GM HEI ignition control module with thermal paste (to dissipate the operating heat) fastens on the backside of the bearing plate, on the left side when facing the flywheel. Two 9/64" holes will need to be drilled and tapped to mount the module. (Sometimes one must improvise when certain parts are obsolete.) This kit has a limited one year warranty. This is a thoroughly researched and ingenious concept by Brian Miller. Click or tap here to print out wiring diagram and wiring connection instructions. Kit Includes:

  • New cube-shaped 3-wire inductive proximity sensor w/mounting adapter and two Allen head mounting screws. (Mounts in place of Trigger Module.)
  • New high quality ordinary/stock 4-pin GM HEI electronic ignition control module w/packet of thermal paste to dissipate the operating heat (module fastens on backside of bearing plate, as shown in picture above), four slip-on crimp wire connectors, two wire clamps and two 8-32 UNC self-threading mounting screws (requires two #29 or 9/64" drilled holes and T-20 Torx bit).
  • New 1.0 ohm canister ignition coil w/mounting bracket. (Mounts in place of Breakerless coil ).
  • New 11" length metal core conductor spark plug wire with boots/terminals.
  • New Autolite 216 or Champion 844 (H10C) spark plug. Set spark plug gap at .035" with this system.
    • Complete Ignition Kit above with OFF-ON toggle/flip switch (to power the ignition) and momentary push button switch (to crank the engine). $165.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
    • Complete Ignition Kit above with OFF-ON pull-push switch (to power the ignition) and momentary push button switch (to crank the engine). $165.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
    • Complete Ignition Kit above with OFF-ON key switch (for security reasons; to power the ignition) and momentary push button switch (to crank the engine). $224.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
    • Complete Ignition Kit above with OFF-ON-START battery-ignition key switch. $165.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
    • Complete Ignition Kit above without any switches. (Customer supplies own switches.) $150.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.


NEW PRODUCT COMING SOON! (Added 11/21/20) Complete Kit to Convert from [a failed] OEM Kohler Breakerless Ignition to A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition System with the PerTronix Ignitor Module/Sensor. This ignition system operates with full 12 volts and produces a strong spark. It will allow the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly, rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or misfire and produce more power. This ignition system may outlast the life of the engine. This is another revolutionary ignition system for older cast iron block Kohler engines! NOTE - The OEM key switch for Breakerless Ignition will not work with any battery-powered ignition systems. The switch used with Breakerless Ignition is actually a magneto ignition switch, which when the engine is shut-down, it grounds the self-energizing wire connected to the ignition system. And battery ignition requires a switch that disconnects the coil from the power source (battery). So with this ignition system, you will need either a battery-ignition OFF-ON-START key switch, or an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition) and a momentary push button switch (to crank the engine). Go here for choice of switches. This kit has a limited one year warranty. This is a thoroughly researched and ingenious concept by Brian Miller. To install this replacement ignition system:

  1. The supplied PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor and mounting bracket installs in place of Breakerless Trigger Module.
  2. An 11/64" hole will need to be drilled and tapped with a 10-32 UNC TAPER hand tap for installation of the supplied 10-32 UNF Allen head screw w/split lock washer in the projection or "hump" on the edge of the flywheel in alignment with center of the PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor (when fastened in place with two supplied screws), which will be in alignment with the S (20º BTDC timing mark) on the flywheel and raised line on the bearing plate. Liquid threadlocker is not required with a lock washer.
  3. A supplied new 3.0 ohm full size canister ignition coil (with spark plug wire) will need to be installed in place of the OEM Breakerless Ignition coil.
  4. Simple wiring connections - RED wire on the module/sensor connects to the positive (+) terminal on the coil and to the Ignition terminal on the ignition switch, which connects to the battery positive (+) post. BLACK wire on the module/sensor connects to the negative (–) terminal on the ignition coil. The PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor is diode-protected. It will NOT burn up if the wires are connected in reverse. A feature by Brian Miller.

Kit Includes:

  • New 10-32 UNF Allen head screw w/split lock washer. (Trigger target.)
  • New PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor w/adapter and two mounting screws. (Mounts in place of Trigger Module).
  • Momentary push button switch (to crank the engine), and choice of OFF-ON toggle switch (to power the ignition), OFF-ON key switch (for security reasons; to power the ignition) or OFF-IGNITION-START key switch.
  • New 3.0 ohm canister ignition coil w/mounting bracket (mounts in place of Breakerless coil).
  • New 11" length metal core conductor spark plug wire with boots/terminals.
  • New Autolite 216 or Champion 844 (H10C) spark plug. Set spark plug gap at .035" with this system.
    • Complete Ignition Kit above with OFF-ON toggle/flip switch (to power the ignition) and momentary push button switch (to crank the engine). $217.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
    • Complete Ignition Kit above with OFF-ON pull-push switch (to power the ignition) and momentary push button switch (to crank the engine). $218.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
    • Complete Ignition Kit above with OFF-ON key switch (for security reasons; to power the ignition) and momentary push button switch (to crank the engine). $224.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
    • Complete Ignition Kit above with OFF-ON-START battery-ignition key switch. $217.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
    • Complete Ignition Kit above without any switches. (Customer supplies own switches.) $202.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.


Option #2 - Complete Kit to Convert from [a failed] OEM Kohler Breakerless Ignition to Battery-Powered Points and Condenser Ignition System with a full size Canister-Type 12 Volt Ignition Coil. New parts include: 12 volt 3.0 ohm full size canister-type ignition coil w/mounting bracket, 11" length metal core conductor spark plug wire, medium capacity condenser/capacitor, ignition points, stainless steel points pushrod, points cover, points cover gasket, four 10-24 UNC Phillips head screws w/lock washers, Autolite 216 or Champion 844 (H10C) spark plug, and 12" cut-to-length 16 gauge coil-to-points wire w/terminals and points cover/wire grommet. Set spark plug gap at .035" with this system. NOTE - This ignition system operates with 12 volts of power. The OEM key switch for Breakerless Ignition will not work with any battery-powered ignition systems. The switch used with Breakerless Ignition is actually a magneto ignition switch, which when the engine is shut-down, it grounds the self-energizing wire connected to the ignition. And battery ignition requires a switch that disconnects the coil from the power source (battery). So with my this ignition system, you will need either an OFF-ON-START battery-ignition key switch, or an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition) and a momentary push button switch (to crank the engine). Go here for choice of switches. IMPORTANT - All coils will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system.

  • Complete Ignition Kit above with an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or key switch (to power the ignition) and a momentary push button switch (to crank the engine). $86.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Complete Ignition Kit above with an OFF-ON-START battery-ignition key switch. $86.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Complete Ignition Kit above without any switches. (Customer supplies own switches.) $71.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling.


Option #3 - Complete Kit to Convert from Battery-Powered Points and Condenser Ignition to A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition System. This is designed for Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321, K341 and K361 with the 9-1/2" flywheel that have a 3/4" wide edge with a molded-in projection (hump) or to install a projected/protruded steel trigger screw. This ignition system produces a strong spark. It will allow the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly, rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or misfire and produce more power. To install this replacement ignition system; the ignition coil mounts in the usual location; the proximity cube sensor/bracket mounts on the two bosses located at the 10:30 position on the bearing plate; and the GM HEI ignition control module fastens on the backside of the bearing plate, on the left side when facing the flywheel. Two 9/64" holes will need to be drilled and tapped to mount the module. The original key switch can be used with this ignition system. This kit has a limited one year warranty. The OEM OFF-ON-START battery-powered key switch, or a momentary push button switch (to crank the engine) and an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition) CAN be used with this ignition system. Kit Includes:

  • New cube-shaped 3-wire inductive proximity sensor w/mounting adapter and two Allen head mounting screws (mounts in place of Trigger Module next to flywheel or on two raised bosses on bearing plate). 59" length cable wire.
  • New high quality ordinary/stock 4-pin GM HEI electronic ignition control module w/packet of thermal paste (to dissipate the operating heat). Module fastens on backside of bearing plate, as shown in picture above, four slip-on crimp wire connectors, two wire clamps and two 8-32 UNC self-threading mounting screws (requires two #29 or 9/64" drilled holes, T-20 Torx bit).
  • New Autolite 216 or Champion 844 (H10C) spark plug.
  • Customer supplies own ignition coil and spark plug wire.


NOTE: The alternative to using either of the items below is to remove the ignition points and points pushrod, and place the pushrod on a hard, flat surface, and use a hammer and sharp flat cold chisel to lightly create knurled raised marks midway on the pushrod. Then reinstall the pushrod in the engine block with the hammer. The knurling will retain the pushrod in the hole.

3/16" Plug to Replace Kohler Points Pushrod. Use in Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, K482, K532 and K582 when converting from magneto to solid state ignition (above), Magnum solid state ignition, flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition (further down in this website). Install with a medium size hammer; fits very tight. OEM Briggs & Stratton part #'s 231143, 692882. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Block-Off Plate to Cover Kohler Points Pushrod Hole. Use in Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582 when converting from magneto to solid state ignition (above), Magnum solid state ignition, or flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition (further down in this website). Made of 1/8" thickness aluminum or steel. Apply RTV silicone sealant to prevent oil leak and use OEM ignition points mounting screws to secure in place. A-1 Miller part. $4.00 each, plus shipping & handling. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.) [Return to previous paragraph, section or website]


A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Replacement Electronic Ignition System for Cast Iron Block Tecumseh Engines

A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Replacement Electronic Ignition Kits for Tecumseh engine models VH80, VH100, HH80, HH100, HH120, OH120, OH140, OH150, OH160 and OH180 with a gear starter that has a failed OEM Solid State Ignition. This ignition system produces a strong and reliable spark. It will allow the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly, rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or misfire. Epoxy molding makes the coil and module impervious to dirt, oil, grease and moisture. This ignition system may outlast the life of the engine. This revolutionizes the ignition system for older cast iron block Tecumseh engines! This replacement ignition system installs in place of the OEM Tecumseh Solid State Ignition (SSI) module unit and is completely hidden under the flywheel shroud from outside view, with only one wire connection. NOTE - This ignition system operates with 12 volts of power. The OEM key switch for the Tecumseh Solid State Ignition (SSI) will not work with any battery-powered ignition systems. The switch used with SSI is actually a magneto ignition switch, which when the engine is shut-down, it grounds the self-energizing wire connected to the ignition. And battery ignition requires a switch that disconnects the coil from the power source (battery). So with my this ignition system, you will need either an OFF-ON-START battery-ignition key switch, or an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition) and a momentary push button switch (to crank the engine). Go here for choice of switches. Limited one year warranty. Actual picture of ignition system shown above. Concept and design by Brian Miller.


Replacement Tecumseh Electronic Ignition Kit with Inductive PerTronix Ignitor. (Detects short firing pin in flywheel.) Includes: new PerTronix Ignitor Inductive module/sensor and new high quality, high energy small-size epoxy encapsulated ignition coil w/integrated metal core spark plug wire, both fastened on aluminum mounting plate, new Autolite 295 or Champion J8C spark plug, new momentary push-button switch (to crank the engine; optional) and new OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition; optional).

Installation Instructions for Replacement Tecumseh Electronic Ignition System with the Inductive PerTronix Ignitor:

  1. The module/sensor detects and fires off ONLY the short firing pin in the flywheel so the engine will run right and produce full power. Therefore, remove, drive down or grind off the long firing pin until it's flush with the surface of the flywheel. FYI - I've done a lot of research on this and the long pin MUST be absent for this ignition system to work right.
  2. Set air gap/clearance between firing pin and module/sensor at .010"-.050" with a paper, plastic or brass feeler gauge, and securely tighten the mounting fasteners. IMPORTANT - Gently rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand to check and see that the module does not make contact with the firing pin. Do not allow the module make contact with the pin while the engine is running!
  3. Determine the required length of the spark plug wire, shorten if necessary (don't make it too short!), and install the spark plug boot and terminal. If necessary, apply oil or grease on the spark plug wire and inside boot so the boot will slide on easily.
  4. Set the spark plug gap at .030" with this kit.
  • Replacement Tecumseh Electronic Ignition System with momentary push-button switch (to crank engine) and OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or key switch (to power ignition). $195.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Replacement Tecumseh Electronic Ignition System above without momentary push-button switch (to crank engine) and OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or key switch (to power ignition). (Customer supplies own switches.) $175.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Click or tap here to print out the installation and wiring instructions for this system.


Replacement Tecumseh Electronic Ignition Kit with Hall Effect PerTronix Ignitor. (Detects installed screw/magnet on flywheel.) Includes: new PerTronix Ignitor Hall Effect module/sensor and new high quality, high energy small-size epoxy encapsulated ignition coil w/integrated metal core spark plug wire, both fastened on aluminum mounting plate, 12-24 UNC thread screw/magnet/cushioning washer, new Autolite 295 or Champion J8C spark plug, new momentary push-button switch (to crank the engine; optional) and new OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition; optional).

Installation Instructions for Replacement Tecumseh Electronic Ignition System with the Hall Effect PerTronix Ignitor:

  1. Remove the short OEM firing pin from the flywheel, and enlarge the hole with a #16 drill bit, then cut new threads with a 12-24 UNC hand tap. (Use Hanson 1765537; Google search link.)
  2. Install the supplied 12-24 UNC thread screw/magnet/cushioning washer on the flywheel with high strength liquid threadlocker (Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent). The module/sensor is activated from the South pole of the magnet, so do not remove the magnet from the screw! To prevent from breaking the magnet, do not over-tighten the screw! Tighten screw just enough to squeeze out the rubber cushioning washer. No need to remove the long pin. It will serve no purpose. The module/sensor detects and fires off the screw/magnet on the flywheel so the engine will produce full power.
  3. Set air gap/clearance between screw/magnet and module/sensor at .010"-.050" with a paper, plastic or brass feeler gauge, and securely tighten the mounting fasteners. IMPORTANT - Gently rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand to check and see that the module does not make contact with the screw/magnet. Do not allow the module make contact with the screw head while the engine is running!
  4. Determine the required length of the spark plug wire, shorten if necessary (don't make it too short!), and install the spark plug boot and terminal. If necessary, apply oil or grease on the spark plug wire and inside boot so the boot will slide on easily.
  5. Set the spark plug gap at .030" with this kit.
  • Replacement Tecumseh Electronic Ignition Kit with momentary push-button switch (to crank engine) and OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or an OFF-ON key switch ( to power ignition). $200.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Replacement Tecumseh Electronic Ignition System above without momentary push-button switch (to crank engine) and OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or an OFF-ON key switch ( to power ignition). (Customer supplies own switches.) $180.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • 12-24 UNC High Speed Steel Hand Tap. $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Click or tap here to print out the installation and wiring instructions for this system.

How to Start the Engine with Either Ignition System Above -

  1. First, choke the carburetor. (Or install an A-1 Miller's fuel primer kit, which is much easier and convenient to use.)
  2. Crank the engine with the momentary push button switch.
  3. While it's cranking over, flip ON the toggle/flip switch switch or turn ON the key switch to "put the spark to it". Don't forget to open the choke as soon as the engine starts.
  4. The engine should start right off, idle smoothly, rev up to full RPM every time.
  5. And being the engine may draw fuel through the idle fuel passageway with the throttle plate in the idle position with the engine warm, without using the choke (or primer bulb), it's best to use this same starting procedure every time to start the engine.
  6. Failure to start the engine in this procedure will result in engine "kick back". This is when the crankshaft/flywheel rebounds sharply, which could cause the starter armature to bent or break off. By starting the engine this way, due to centrifugal spinning force of the flywheel, it won't kick back and the engine will start with no problems whatsoever. You may think this would be a hassle at first, but once you get used to doing it this way, you'll think nothing of it. By the way - This is how many pulling truck and tractor drivers, and race car drivers start their high performance engines under full compression with fixed advanced ignition timing setting (no timing retard, and obviously no compression release), with no hesitation and without damaging the starter motor.


A-1 Miller's Economy Replacement Electronic Ignition Kit. Includes: New 3/8" x 1" magnetic pickup coil w/1/8" thickness angled mounting bracket, choice of new Chrysler ignition control module w/new ballast resistor or new Ford ignition control module, new 1.0 ohm full size canister coil w/new spark plug wire, and new Autolite 295 or Champion J8C spark plug. Magnetic pickup coil and angled mounting bracket installs in place of OEM SSI module, and replacement ignition control module and coil fastens on outside of engine. Click or tap here for wiring instructions and diagrams. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.)

  • Tecumseh Electronic Ignition Kit above without momentary push-button switch (to crank engine) and OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or an OFF-ON key switch ( to power ignition). (Customer supplies own switches.) $148.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Tecumseh Electronic Ignition Kit above with momentary push-button switch (to crank engine) and OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or an OFF-ON key switch ( to power ignition). $168.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.

(Posted 8/24/20) I've been receiving several emails and phone calls from people who purchased another type of custom-made electronic ignition system from another person online for their cast iron block Tecumseh engine. And if you're experiencing problems with this type of system, you will need to complain to the person you purchased it from. Because being I'm not familiar with another person's custom ignition system, the advice I give you to get your engine running right may not be 100% accurate. It'll be like a Chevrolet car dealer/repair shop trying to tell someone how to fix their Ford vehicle. FYI - I thoroughly test every custom electronic ignition system that I offer in my websites to sure they work flawlessly. - Brian Miller


If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance and support, please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival. E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle, tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)


A-1 Miller's Custom Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit for Kohler opposed twin cylinder engine models KT17 Series II and KT19 Series II. This ignition system works flawlessly! Replaces points and condenser. Ignition points can be removed and the points pushrod hole can be permanently plugged with a short self-tapping 1/4" bolt, Allen set screw or clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant. The ignition system listed below works excellent with the OEM Kohler twin cylinder ignition coil to produce a strong, reliable spark. NOTE: Two bosses on the #1 cylinder (right side when facing flywheel) must be drilled and tapped to accept 1/4-20 UNC x 1" mounting bolts (drill only 3/4" deep; do not drill all the way through the cylinder wall!), and a specific location on the edge of the flywheel must be drilled and tapped to accept the 6-32 UNC (coarse thread) detectable target screw or magnet w/cushioning/isolator rubber washer and screw. The sensor is activated by the South pole of the magnet, so do not remove the screw from the magnet! Install screw in flywheel with high strength liquid threadlocker (Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent), and tighten screw w/magnet just when the rubber washer begin to bulge. FYI - Store a container of liquid threadlocker or Super Glue upright and not laying flat. The capped tip will not dry out and clog when stored upright. An original, ingenious and innovative concept design invention by Brian Miller. These ignition systems will not work on the KT17 and KT19 first design engines because there are no bosses on the cylinder(s) to drill for bolt holes to mount the ignition bracket. However, the cylinder(s) off a KT17 Series II, MV16, M18 and MV18 will work on a KT17 first design engine, and the cylinder(s) off a KT19 Series II, M20 and MV20 engine will work on a KT19 first design engine. The only difference between the KT17, KT17 Series II, MV16, M18 and MV18 cylinders, and KT19, KT19 Series II, M20 and MV20 cylinders is the length of the valves. I realize this would be a lot of work just to use electronic ignition on a KT17 or KT19 first design engine, but this is the best way of making it happen. Scroll down for more information.

For General Yard & Garden Work, or Competition Pulling. This ignition system produces a strong spark. It will allow the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly, rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or misfire and produce more power. Complete Flywheel-Trigger Ignition Kit for the Flywheel End of Opposed Twin Cylinder Kohler engine models KT17 Series II and KT19 Series II. This ignition system may outlast the life of the engine. This revolutionizes the ignition system for the opposed twin cylinder Kohler engines! Use this setup for durability instead of points and condenser. Use with the OEM off/ignition/start key switch and ignition coil. Simple two wire hook-up; RED wire on module/sensor connects to 12 volt ignition switch (battery positive (+) post), and BLACK wire on module/sensor connects to coil negative (–) terminal. Kit includes PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor w/mounting bracket and hardware, and small magnet/screw/cushioning washer. PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor is triggered by a small magnet fastened in a specific place on edge of flywheel. Use the OEM ignition coil with metal core spark plug wires and copper core spark plugs gapped at .025" each. FYI - The module is diode-protected, and will NOT burn up if the wires are connected in reverse with power supplied. But the module will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller because nobody else advertise this kind of ignition setup.

Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the parts or items in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Return to previous paragraph, section or website] [Top of Page]


100% Maintenance-Free Custom Crank-Trigger Electronic Ignition Systems That Operate Off the PTO End of a Competition Pulling Small Engine - Eliminates Points and Condenser

Be Ahead of the Competition with 21st Century Technology Using 100% Reliable Digital Electronic Ignition! Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the parts or items in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page]

FYI - I can install a Custom crank-trigger electronic ignition system and/or rewire your lawn & garden tractor, equipment or garden pulling tractor so all the electrical accessories will work and the engine will start quickly every time. I have the knowledge, skills, all the tools and parts necessary to perform a quality job. I've rewired many customer's lawn & garden tractor/equipment or garden pulling tractor with great results. If you're interested, Click or tap here for my phone numbers, address and directions to my shop. - Brian Miller

A new way to revolutionize the ignition system on virtually any small gas engine! Virtually trouble- and maintenance-free, and water-proof. These ignition modules/sensors is a small, lightweight, compact and completely self-contained electronic ignition system built with the latest state-of-the-art engineering with the use of microelectronics. Fits entirely on the engine block; no ignition box and additional wiring to clutter the engine compartment because the electronic ignition control module and pickup coil/sensor are contained in the same sealed casing. The Dynatek Dyna S sensor/module produces a strong spark. They will allow the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly, rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or misfire and produce more power.

The Dynatek Dyna S sensor/module operates on 12-1/2 to 15 volts negative ground, and requires an ignition coil with a minimum 3.0 ohm internal primary resistor to prevent from burning up the module. Using a coil with less than total of 3.0 ohms of primary resistance for a long period of time will cause the module to overheat and the engine may misfire until it cools down, or the sensor/module might fail prematurely. A metal conductor spark plug wire, and non-resistor/copper core spark plug should be used. If the voltage drops below the minimum requirement for either sensor/module, the engine may idle well, but not rev up, or the engine may run erratic. Either module/sensor can be used with a standard-output/stock or high-output/performance ignition coil, as long as the coil has a 3.0 ohm internal primary resistor, or a ballast resistor is connected that totals 3.0 ohms of resistance. These sensor/modules should not be used with magneto-type ignition coils, being magneto coils have a 1.0 ohm internal primary resistor. A metal core conductor spark plug wire can be used with either sensor/module.

These maintenance-free crank-trigger electronic ignition setups have been thoroughly tested and proven very reliable for general lawn and work, and all classes of single and twin cylinder competition pulling engines. One sensor/module is needed for an opposed twin cylinder engine, and two modules/sensors spaced precisely at 90º apart are required for V-twin engines. These are the same ignition used by professional pullers everywhere. Reliable at high RPMs, the Dynatek Dyna S or PerTronix Ignitor modules provides unlimited RPM. They will allow the ignition system to operate at the speed of electricity (which can be anywhere from about 50% to 99% of the speed of light, depending upon the quality of the electronic components and wiring connections).

Spark occurs when the magnet embedded in an aluminum locking set screw collar, which is much like an automotive reluctor ring, that's fastened on the crankshaft's PTO end passes the sensor/module. These sensors/modules packs a lot of punch and allows the ignition system operate at 100% efficiency for a stronger spark. When wired correctly, it's normal for the flywheel- and crank-trigger ignition systems to make a spark when first powered up. And if it makes a spark as the sensor passes the metal target object, then the ignition system is working as it should.

Dynatek Dyna S Maintenance-Free Crank-Trigger Electronic Ignition Installation Instructions -

Our universal flat mounting plate can be adapted for use on various makes and models of one or two cylinder (twin opposing cylinders) engines by drilling new mounting holes. And being there are so many different bolt patterns on the PTO end of Kohler and other makes and models of engines, these are not a simple "one kit fits all" bolt-on ignition kit. Therefore, customer will need to locate and drill holes in the mounting plate in alignment with the bolt holes on the PTO end of the engine block. If there are no bolt hole(s) on the PTO end of the block, they will need to be drilled and tapped. Minimum of 1/4" bolts can be used. Locate and drill (machine) slotted adjustment holes in the mounting plate, fasten plate to PTO end of engine block. And then drill and cut 4-40 NC threads in the mounting plate for positioning/clearance of the sensor/module clearance to the locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet. Additional spacing of modules/sensor may be required so magnet will be aligned with the center of the sensor on various applications. Air gap/clearance between the sensor/module and locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet is .010"-.050". Sensor/module may not operate or engine may misfire if gap is wider than .060". When mounting the GM 4-pin HEI module, always fasten it with thermal paste (to dissipate the operating heat) on a clean, flat aluminum plate with plenty of cool air circulation to dissipate the heat while in operation. NOTE: Do not allow sensor/module to make contact with locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet while engine is running!

NOTE: The Dynatek Dyna S crank-trigger ignition kit with the locking set screw collar w/target magnet or screw (just below Ê) installs and operate off the PTO end of the engine block, and is intended for competition pulling only. The set screw collar is specifically for competition pulling engines, because these engines have nothing on the PTO end of the crankshaft, such as a clutch assembly. The set screw collar can't work on the flywheel end because there's no place to mount it. Click HERE for Custom electronic ignition kits that operates off the flywheel end of the engine. These can be used for stock competition pulling engines and/or ordinary lawn & garden engines.


Designed Specifically for Single Cylinder Garden Pulling Tractors, these Self-Contained 12 Volt High Performance Dyna S Kit is Integrated with a Durable High Energy Ignition Coil Are Built with the Latest State-of-the-Art Engineering. Thoroughly tested and proven to be very reliable. Self-contained and very compact. Each kit includes: Sensor/module, coil, bracket and locking set screw collar w/embedded detector/target magnet. No need for a separate/remote-mounted ignition coil and additional wiring. Unlike the advertised competition, these module/sensor and coil ignition kits are fastened to a sturdy aluminum plate which fastens on the PTO end of the engine block. Customer may have to drill and tap the block to mount the crank-trigger or modify the bracket if necessary. Each ignition kit comes prewired with one or two simple wire connection(s): Connect the RED wire to the ignition switch (battery positive (+) post), and connect the BLACK wire to the self-grounding killswitch (if equipped), or snip off the black wire if not needed. Set the air gap/clearance between sensor and magnet in locking set screw collar at .010"-.050", and set spark plug gap at .035". Please specify diameter of crankshaft PTO end for locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet. Most common crankshaft PTO end diameters are 1" and 1-1/8", but 3/4", 1-1/4", 1-3/8", 1-7/16" and 1-1/2" are rare. Most billet steel crankshafts have a 1-1/2" diameter PTO end (raised shoulder). Please specify diameter of crankshaft PTO end for locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet. Made in USA. Picture and video of each product coming soon.

Wiring Directions for the Module Shown Below: Connect the BLACK wire on module to the negative (–) terminal on the ignition coil (and to nothing else), and connect the RED wire on the module to the positive (+) terminal on the coil and to the ignition switch , which is connected to the positive (+) battery post. FYI - Unlike the competition of this part, the module is diode-protected, and will NOT burn up if the wires are connected in reverse with power supplied. But the module will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system.

Dynatek Dyna S Sensor/Module Fastened on Aluminum Mounting Plate and Locking Set Screw Collar w/Embedded Magnet. This ignition system produces a strong spark. It will allow the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly, rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or misfire and produce more power. Can be used on Kohler 10-16hp single or opposed twin cylinder horizontal shaft engines. Ignition module fastens on PTO end of engine block, and coil mounts remotely on side of flywheel shroud or elsewhere in engine compartment. Ignition coil not included, purchase separately. Must be used with a minimum 3.0 ohm coil regardless of the voltage output to prevent from burning up module. Set the clearance between the module and locking collar at .010"-.050". IMPORTANT - Gently rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand to check and see that the module does not make contact with the locking collar. Do not allow the module make contact with the locking collar while the engine is running! Wiring instructions: Connect RED wire to coil positive (+) terminal and to ignition switch (battery positive (+) post), and connect BLACK wire to coil negative (–) terminal. FYI - Unlike the competition of this part, FYI - Unlike the competition of this part, the module is diode-protected, and will NOT burn up if the wires are connected in reverse with power supplied. But the module will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system. NOTE: Slotted mounting holes will be machined in the ignition plate. If the bolt holes in the PTO end of the block don't match the ones in the plate or if bolt holes are not present, then new bolt holes will need to be drilled and tapped in the engine block. This ignition setup is pictured above. $80.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.

Self-Contained Ignition System with Dynatek Dyna S Sensor/Module with the Dynatek Dyna S module/sensor and a High Energy Small-Size Epoxy Encapsulated Ignition Coil w/integrated metal core conductor spark plug wire fastened on same aluminum mounting plate, with a Locking Set Screw Collar w/Embedded Magnet. This ignition system produces a strong spark. It will allow the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly, rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or misfire and produce more power. Designed to be used only on Kohler 10-16hp single cylinder engines. Entire ignition system fastens on PTO end of engine block; cleans up the engine compartment on a Cub Cadet. Coil can withstand high engine vibrations. Set the clearance between the module and locking collar at .010"-.050". IMPORTANT - Gently rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand to check and see that the module does not make contact with the locking collar. Do not allow the module make contact with the locking collar while the engine is running! Simple wiring instructions: Connect RED wire to coil positive (+) terminal and to ignition switch (battery positive (+) post). FYI - The module and coil are diode-protected, and will NOT burn up if the wires are connected in reverse with power supplied. But the module will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system. Set spark plug gap at .035" with this system. Kit also includes fully insulated male and female slip-on spade crimp-type wire connectors (to easily connect/disconnect the ignition system to/from the power source). NOTE: Slotted mounting holes will be machined in the ignition plate. If the bolt holes in the PTO end of the block don't match the ones in the plate or if bolt holes are not present, then new bolt holes will need to be drilled and tapped in the engine block. Picture of this ignition system coming soon. $165.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.

Replacement Dynatek Dyna S hall effect sensor/module with red and black wires. FYI - The module is diode-protected, and will NOT burn up if the wires are connected in reverse with power supplied. But the module will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system. Use with small magnet in aluminum rotating disc to trigger the spark. $60.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


(Posted 1/26/20) For Competition Pulling Engines Only. This ignition system produces a strong spark. It will allow the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly, rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or misfire and produce more power. Complete self-contained crank-trigger ignition system that operate off the PTO end of opposed twin cylinder Kohler engine models KT17 Series II, KT19 Series II, and Magnum engine models M18 and M20. Produces a very strong spark. Use this setup for durability when the OEM type of solid state ignition coil keeps failing. Fastens on PTO end of engine. Dynatek Dyna S module/sensor is triggered by a small magnet embedded in a locking set screw collar. Simple one wire hook-up; RED wire on module/sensor connects to 12 volt ignition switch (battery positive (+) post). Kit includes: Dynatek Dyna S module/sensor and high energy dual wire epoxy encapsulated ignition coil with two molded-in metal core conductor spark plug wires and 90º spark plug terminals/boots fastened on aluminum mounting plate, and small magnet embedded in a locking set screw collar, and new battery ignition OFF-IGNITION-START key switch (do not reuse OEM Magnum solid state ignition key switch with this system) or an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition) and a momentary push button switch (to crank the engine) and fully insulated male and female slip-on spade crimp-type wire connectors (to easily connect/disconnect the ignition system to/from the power source). Remove the OEM solid state ignition coil and aluminum bracket. They will serve no purpose with this kit. Use with copper core spark plugs gapped at .030" each. Coil can withstand high engine vibrations. Please specify diameter of crankshaft PTO end for the locking collar when ordering. FYI - The module is diode-protected, and will NOT burn up if the wires are connected in reverse with power supplied. But the module will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system. Picture of this setup coming soon. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller because nobody else advertise this type of ignition system.

Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the parts or items in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Return to previous paragraph, section or website] [Top of Page]



How to Check for Spark and Set the Timing for the Dynatek Dyna S (and PerTronix Ignitor) module/sensors - After either setup is installed on the engine and power is supplied, simply rotate the locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet (loose) on the crankshaft back and forth by hand. Each time the embedded detector/trigger magnet passes the sensor/module, spark should occur. NOTE: Do not use a battery charger alone for power to perform this test. Battery chargers constantly switch between high and low voltage at 60 cycles per second, and the module sees this as the ignition being switched on and off, resulting in a continuous array of sparks.

A simple and precise way to set the ignition timing STATICALLY (engine not running) for either sensor/module -

  1. Place a mark (line) with a permanent ink marker (Marks A Lot or Sharpie) or a flat chisel on the side of the locking collar next to the embedded magnet. This is to indicate where the magnet is located from the side of the collar.
  2. Align the timing mark on the flywheel in alignment with the raised boss on the bearing plate where you want the timing to be set.
  3. Align the mark on the collar with center of the module/sensor with the timing mark on the flywheel and raised boss.
  4. Tighten the set screw in the collar and the timing will be correctly set.

How to accurately set the ignition timing STATICALLY for the Dynatek Dyna S, PerTronix Ignitor and Inductive 3-Wire Proximity Sensor/Module - (This is also how to test if the sensor/modules or the ignition system is functioning or not.)

  1. Connect the wires correctly for either sensor/module as specified above with a fully charged 12 volt battery connected in the circuit. NOTE: Do not use a battery charger alone to perform this test. Battery chargers constantly switch between high and low voltage at 60 cycles per second, and the module sees this as the ignition being switched on and off resulting in a continuous, constant array of sparks.
  2. Connect a battery-powered test light or multimeter [set on the 12 volt reading] between the negative (–) coil terminal and engine/chassis ground.
  3. Rotate the crankshaft to position the flywheel or starter pulley with the desired timing mark aligned with the timing pointer or indicator on the engine. This is close to where the timing needs to be set.
  4. With the Allen set screw loose in the locking ring, again...
  5. Tighten the Allen set screw in the collar on the crankshaft. The ignition timing is now set close to where it needs to be.
  6. Something cool to show off: To make a 12 volt in-dash indicator light or LED flash while cranking the engine and illuminate while the engine is running, for the Dyna S, Ignitor modules or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor connected to the HEI, Chrysler or Ford module, connect the light or LED to the negative (–) coil terminal and engine/chassis ground. The LED may shine bright, but the light will be dimly lit. The light or LED will not effect the performance of the ignition system whatsoever. It'll also let you know if the ignition system is working or not.

How to precisely set the ignition timing DYNAMICALLY (engine running) using an automotive inductive timing light for either sensor/module. (This is the most accurate way to set the timing.) NOTE: Timing can be checked, but not set while the engine is running! Do not allow sensor/module to make contact with the locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet while engine is running! -

  1. Start the engine, shine the timing light on the timing mark on the flywheel or starter pulley in relation with the pointer on the engine block to see where the timing needs to be set. NOTE: Do not use a battery charger alone to perform this test. Battery chargers constantly switch between high and low voltage at 60 cycles per second, and the module sees this as the ignition being switched on and off resulting in a continuous, constant array of sparks.
  2. If the timing is not set correctly, shut off the engine and loosen the Allen set screw in the locking collar, slightly rotate crankshaft by hand one way or the other to advance or retard the timing, and position the locking collar with the magnet or screw head centered with the sensor in the module, and tighten the Allen set screw.
  3. Start the engine again, shine the timing light on the timing mark on the flywheel or starter pulley in relation with the pointer on the engine block to see if the timing is set where it needs to be.
  4. Repeat steps 1, 2 and 3 if necessary until the timing is set exactly where it needs to be, and securely tighten the Allen set screw.
  5. No further bore.) OEM are required.


Magnetic pickup coils and round-shaped proximity sensors are very sensitive to mechanical damage (and electrical damage if connected wrong). For magnetic pickup coils, set the air gap/clearance from the detectable target (screw, pin or small raised area on the rotating disc) at .010"-.060" with a brass, plastic, business card, poster board, stainless steel (anything non-magnetic) feeler gauge. And being 3-wire inductive proximity sensors have a farther detection range, set the air gap/clearance at .010"-.188". If the gap is wider than .188" (3/16") with either sensor, the ignition system may not produce a spark or the engine could misfire at higher RPM. To prevent the possibility of an out of time spark, the detectable target needs to be a minimum of 3/16" higher than or above the circumference surface of a steel or cast iron rotating disc or flywheel. Direct metal contact with either sensor could damage them. When in doubt if a sensor is mechanically damaged, look at the end of it with the strong magnifying glass to see any damage. If it is damaged, it needs to be replaced. A magnetic pickup coil can be tested with a digital multimeter set on 200m DC, with the negative lead of the meter on the white wire of the pickup coil and positive lead on the black wire, then pass a small steel screw or bolt over the end of the magnetic pickup coil. If the meter shows a reading, the pickup coil is in good condition.

Normally Open 3-Wire Round-Shaped Inductive Proximity Sensors for crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger ignition. Recommended for use with the Chrysler and Ford electronic ignition control module/units. Detects head of small ferrous metal (steel) screw or bolt fastened to rotating disc or flywheel to generate power in sensor. Spark will occur when aligned with head of steel screw (Kohler. etc.) or pin (Tecumseh) in rotating disc or flywheel. Wide operating temperature range. Epoxy encapsulated, mechanically rugged. Impervious to dirt, oil and water. No maintenance required. Sensor is capable of powering crank-trigger or flywheel-trigger ignition and digital tachometer at the same time. Durable metal shielded threads with two stainless steel thin jam nuts and three, 10 foot long wire leads. Dimensions of each item below: 15/32" (12mm) diameter x 1-3/8" thread length. Some proximity sensors have an LED (Light Emitting Diode) on the rear of unit. If the proximity sensor is wired incorrectly, the LED will stay on and go off when activated. Being 3-wire inductive proximity sensors have a farther detection distance, set the air gap/clearance at .010" - .188". Direct metal contact with either sensor will damage them. And if the gap is wider than specified, the engine could misfire at higher RPM. To prevent the possibility of an out of time spark, the detectable target needs to be a minimum of 3/16" higher than or above the circumference surface of a steel or cast iron rotating disc or flywheel. Click or tap here for wiring diagrams.


Magnetic Pickup Coils for flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition. All magnetic pickup coils are Normally Open. Either can be used with the high-output/performance GM 4-pin HEI module w/1.0 ohm coil, or with the Chrysler or Ford electronic ignition control module/units. Detects head of small ferrous metal (steel) screw or bolt fastened to rotating disc or flywheel to generate power in magnetic pickup coil. Install screw head extended minimum 3/16" higher than or above the surface of the flywheel to prevent an out of time spark occurrence by the flywheel itself. Wide operating temperature range. Epoxy encapsulated, mechanically rugged. Impervious to dirt, oil and water. No maintenance required. Self-generating power. Durable metal shielded threads with two jam nuts. Please specify size when ordering. Can be used with a steel bracket without interference of magnetism. By the way - The magnetic pickup coils below work exactly the same. There is absolutely no difference in performance. Set the air gap/clearance from the detectable target (screw, pin or small raised area on the rotating disc) at .010"-.020" with a brass, plastic, business card, poster board or anything non-magnetic feeler gauge. Click or tap here for wiring diagrams.

Detectable Target Screws for Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition. Install on the edge of an aluminum or steel locking set screw collar, disc or flywheel when using a magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor. The curvature or dome shaped heads of button- and Phillips-head screws makes them ideal for use as a detectable target on a trigger disc or flywheel. Secure in place with a split lock washer and/or high strength liquid threadlocker (Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent). FYI - Store a container of liquid threadlocker or Super Glue upright and not laying flat. The capped tip will not dry out and clog when stored upright.


Detectable Target Neodymium/Rare Earth Ring Magnet, Rubber Cushioning/Isolator Washer and Steel Retaining Screw for Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition. Each weighs 1/10 oz. / 6 grams. Fasten magnet w/screw and cushioning/isolator washer on the edge of aluminum or steel disc, or flywheel when using a non-magnetic pickup coil, 3-wire hall effect proximity sensor or hall effect PerTronix Ignitor sensor/module. Head of screw will become magnetized. NOTE: Being the PerTronix Ignitor senses a certain polarity of the magnet, do not remove the magnet from the screw. (The PerTronix Ignitor I and II, Dynatek Dyna S modules and hall effect proximity sensors are activated by the South end of the magnet. They won't do anything from the North end.) And neodymium and rare earth magnets are the strongest available. Five times stronger than ceramic (ferrite) magnets for stronger detection. Be extra careful when handling rare earth/neodymium magnets. They are very brittle and can break when snapped onto something or when the screw is tightened too much. Install the rubber cushioning/isolator washer between the magnet and flywheel, and secure the screw with high strength liquid threadlocker (Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent). Tighten the screw/magnet just until the rubber washer begins to bulge. FYI - Store a container of liquid threadlocker or Super Glue upright and not laying flat. The capped tip will not dry out and clog when stored upright. An original, ingenious, thoroughly researched and innovative concept invented by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this for use on a small engine. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.)


High Quality Ordinary/Stock GM HEI 4-Pin Ignition Control Module w/packet of thermal paste (to dissipate the operating heat). Use with a high-output hall effect or inductive proximity sensor. Virtually any ignition coil regardless of the internal primary resistor can be used. Best to be used with a metal core conductor spark plug wire and non-resistor/copper core spark plug gapped at .025" or .035" (depending on size of coil) for best performance. This combination of ignition components produce an extremely strong spark, allowing the engine to rev up to full speed. When mounting the GM 4-pin HEI module, always fasten it with thermal paste on a clean, flat aluminum plate with plenty of cool circulating air to dissipate the heat and cool the unit while in operation. All GM HEI modules that I offer for sale have been tested personally by Brian Miller on my Kohler test engine to insure proper operation. Requires one (1) 3/16"/.187"/2.8mm and three (3) #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors. Actual weight of each module: 1.1 oz. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

High Quality High-Output/Performance GM HEI 4-Pin Ignition Control Module w/packet of thermal paste (to dissipate the operating heat). This particular module connected to a magnetic pickup coil (below Ê) works excellent with a stock ignition coil that have a maximum 1.0 ohm internal primary resistor, metal core conductor spark plug wire and non-resistor/copper core spark plug gapped at .025, which produce a strong spark, allowing the engine to rev up to full speed. When mounting the GM 4-pin HEI module, always fasten it with thermal paste on a clean, flat aluminum plate with plenty of circulating cool air to dissipate the heat and cool the unit while in operation. Requires one (1) 3/16"/.187"/2.8mm and three (3) #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors. Actual weight of each module: 1.1 oz. $35.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (Limited supply.)


3/8" Magnetic Pickup Coil w/Mounting Adapter to Convert from Breakerless Ignition or Points and Condenser and Upgrade to Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition. Fits Kohler K-series K241-K361 engines with the 9" ring gear flywheel w/projection (hump) or OEM protruding bolt head on flywheel or 3/4" wide area (to install trigger screw) and large bearing plate with the two bosses for mounting this item, as pictured above. Includes two 10-24 UNC (coarse thread) Allen socket head mounting screws and split lock washers. If they're not already present, new 10-24 UNC (coarse thread) threads will need to be drilled and tapped in the two raised bosses in the bearing plate to mount the bracket for the sensor's bracket. NOTE: Set air gap/clearance from projection (hump) or OEM protruding bolt head on flywheel at .010"-.060" with a brass, plastic, business card, poster board or anything non-magnetic feeler gauge. Ignition timing will be fixed at 20º BTDC. Click or tap here for wiring diagrams. An original, ingenious, thoroughly researched and innovative concept invented by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this for use on a small engine. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.)


Now the ordinary/stock 4-pin GM HEI electronic ignition control module lives up to its name, High Energy Ignition! When used on a small engine, in order for an ordinary/stock 4-pin HEI module allow the engine rev up to full RPM, it must be used with the cube-shaped 3-wire inductive proximity sensor, and can be used with virtually any ignition coil, regardless of the ohms resistance or voltage output. A metal core conductor spark plug wire and non-resistor/copper core spark plug should be used. Set spark plug gap at .035". Sensor is also capable of powering an HEI crank-trigger ignition and a digital tachometer at the same time. This concept revolutionizes the use of this small, compact and versatile module! This is a thoroughly tested, researched and proven reliable ignition system invented by Brian Miller for ordinary lawn and garden engines and competition pulling engines. And when mounting the GM 4-pin HEI module, always fasten it with thermal paste (to dissipate the operating heat) on a clean, flat aluminum plate with plenty of cool air circulation to dissipate the heat while in operation. Click or tap here for wiring diagrams. IMPORTANT - The wire that comes from the stator under the flywheel for Kohler Trigger Module or Tecumseh Solid State Electronic Ignition Module generates about 250 volts (serious) while the engine is running at full governed speed. Do not touch this wire (terminal) with one bare hand and the engine itself with your other hand while the engine is running! It is not needed for any of my crank-trigger ignition systems. So snip off this wire or tape up the terminal to prevent a short circuit or electrocution. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]


New High Quality Chrysler / Dodge / Plymouth electronic ignition control module/Unit for crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition. Requires a minimum 1.2 ohm ballast resistor to prevent burning up module. Click or tap here to learn how to check the resistor in a coil or ballast resistor. This module can be used with the magnetic pickup coil or proximity sensor and virtually any ignition coil, regardless of the ohms resistance or voltage output, and will allow the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly, rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or misfire and produce more power. Actual weight of module: 14 oz. Click or tap here for wiring diagrams.

New 1.6 ohm Ballast Resistor for use with Chrysler module (above È) to prevent burning up module, or ballast resistor can be used with a 12 volt ignition coil with low ohm internal primary resistor to prevent excessive burning of point contacts.

New High Quality Ford / Mercury / Lincoln electronic ignition control module/Unit for crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition. Operates with full 12 volts. Requires no ballast resistor. This module can be used with the magnetic pickup coil or proximity sensor and virtually any ignition coil, regardless of the ohms resistance or voltage output, regardless of the ohms resistance, and will allow the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly, rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or misfire and produce more power. Actual weight of module: 1 lb. 7 oz. Click or tap here for wiring diagrams.


High Quality Inductive Wireless Handheld Small Engine Tachometer. A tachometer is required in setting the correct RPMs (normally 3,200 or 3,600 maximum for small engines) of an engine to prevent over-revving and possible damage to the engine or dangerous flywheel explosion. For gas/spark ignite engines only. Works with magneto and battery-powered ignition systems. Very accurate. This handheld analog tachometer works great for checking/setting the RPM on various small engines in the shop, and/or for checking/setting the RPM [tech] on stock governed competition pulling engines. Hold sensor (antenna) close to spark plug wire for reading. Operates off a self-contained replaceable 9 volt battery. Has built-in battery voltage check. Reads up to 5,000 RPM on the low scale, and 15,000 RPM on the high scale.


High Quality Inductive Small Engine Tachometer/Hour Meter. A tachometer is required in setting the correct RPMs (normally 3,200 or 3,600 maximum for small engines) of an engine to prevent over-revving and possible damage to the engine or dangerous flywheel explosion. Very accurate. Can be hand-held to temporarily set engine RPM or can be surface-mounted and secured with two screws to monitor engine RPM at all times. Large 3/8 inch LCD display. Works with all spark ignition engines by selecting engine type using S1 and S2 buttons. Works with magneto and battery-powered ignition systems. If tachometer does not turn on automatically as soon as engine starts, press and hold the two buttons at the same time. Instructions included. Tachometer reads up to 99,999 RPM. Hour meter reads up to 9999:59 hours/minutes then resets to Zero. Programmable maintenance hour setting with service icon, a reminder when to change oil or other service. Can be manually reset to Zero hours. Programmable maintenance hour setting with service icon, a reminder when to change oil or other service. Easy installation: Single wire wraps around spark plug wire and secured with two supplied nylon zip-ties. No wire terminal connections required. Dimensions: 2" wide x 1-3/4" depth x 3/4" height.


High Quality Digital Tachometer/Proximity Sensor Kits. A tachometer is required in setting the correct RPMs (normally 3,200 or 3,600 maximum for small engines) of an engine to prevent from over-revving and possible damage to the engine or dangerous flywheel explosion. Choice of a RED or BLUE numeric display. Will work with single- or twin-cylinder small engines or multi-cylinder automotive engines, gas or diesel. The great thing about this type of tachometer is it needs no setup. It displays accurate RPMs as soon as the engine cranks over to start. Displays up to 9,999 RPM. Very accurate. Tachometer returns to zero [0000] when engine is shut down. Operates totally independent of the ignition system. Can be used for lawn & garden equipment or competition pulling engines. Designed to be permanently mounted to monitor engine RPM at all times. Tachometer can be in-dash or panel-mounted. This precision digital tachometer operates with external power and on the same principle as my flywheel- or crank-trigger ignition systems with a proximity sensor to detect the target, which can be a small ferrous steel screw or pin, or magnet in a rotating disc on the crankshaft or on/in flywheel. A sturdy steel or aluminum bracket will need to be fabricated by customer to mount the sensor in close proximity of the detector/trigger target. Set air gap/clearance at .010"-.188". Tachometer works with 8-24 volts DC, proximity sensor works with 6-36 volts DC. Dimensions for mounting hole for tachometer: 3" wide x 1-17/32" wide. Tachometer measures 1" in depth. Dimensions of proximity sensor: 15/32" diameter x 1-3/8" thread length. Wiring Instructions: #1 wire on tachometer connects to brown wire on proximity sensor and ignition switch (12 volt power), #2 wire on tachometer connects to blue wire on proximity sensor and engine/chassis ground (battery negative (–) post), and #5 wire on tachometer connects to black wire on (either) proximity sensor. Wires #3 and #4 connects to nothing. Wiring is the same for the hall effect and inductive proximity sensors. Some proximity sensors have an LED (Light Emitting Diode) on the rear of unit. If the proximity sensor is wired incorrectly, the LED will illuminate within the target. Click or tap here for YouTube videos to see how well this tachometer works. Cannot be wired in conjunction with the Dynatek Dyna S or PerTronix Ignitor ignition modules. This tachometer must be wired separately or wiring can be integrated with my crank-trigger ignition system that use a proximity sensor.


A-1 Miller's Computerized Stuska Water Brake Engine Dynamometer (Dyno) Service with DPM Data Logger Software to Test Horsepower and Torque! | [Top of Page]

For performance testing of 10-16hp single cylinder Kohler stock or competition pulling engines at speeds up to 12,000 RPM. 100% accurate, customers can rent dyno time, fine tune and make adjustments or changes to their engines to gain maximum horsepower and torque, and print-out the results so their tractor(s) will be truly competitive on the track. With an engine dyno, the puller can adjust their engine to get maximum horsepower and torque, and gear their tractor appropriately to have an advantage over the competition. NOTE: A fresh-built engine may not produce full power until it's broke-in. This is when the valves wear-in with the seats to completely seal in the compression. The rings will likely hold the compression, but the valves may leak slightly until they wear into the seats. This is normal for all engines and may take several hours or pulls to happen, then the valves will be able to hold full compression. Lots of pullers tell A-1 Miller's after I've built their engines that it seems to pull stronger every time they pull it.

Engine Dyno Rental Fee: $50.00 per hour run time from the moment the engine is started. No setup fee for Cub Cadet engines with a 3- or 6-pin/stud clutch driver. An adapter may need to be needed or fabricated for other makes and models of engines. Only engines with the narrow base oil pan can be tested. Engines with the wide base (tall) oil pan cannot be tested at this time. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]


Coming Soon - Detailed Illustrated Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back and Self-Propelled Garden Tractor Pulling Sled. FYI - The professionally-built self-propelled pulling sled is the only one I've ever built (click the picture to the right to see a larger image of this sled), and I got it right the first time, with very few changes or modifications that had to be made to it. I guess I'm just one of those kind of guys that knows what he's doing. Pullers really like pulling our sled, too. They say it's the best sled they've ever pulled. (Not bragging, just stating a fact.) By the way - Track Master sled is engineered so well (by Brian Miller), that other sled builders/owners have copied my well thought-out and proven design. And I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence. Anyway, I have lots of work to do in my shop and I work on the sled plans in my spare time. As soon as my plans with an inventory list of parts to use are perfected, I'll post the update in my websites with the prices of the plans. Remember - Perfection takes time. If it's worth having, it's worth waiting for. Also, I plan to acquire a bigger shop and may build high quality garden tractor pulling sleds in the future to offer for sale. Please call A-1 Miller's at 573-256-0313 (shop) or 573-881-7229 (cell; text or voice message), or email A-1 Miller's at pullingtractor@aol.com if interested. - Brian Miller


If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance and support, please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle, tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.) [Return To Previous Paragraph, Section or Website]

We Ship to Canada and Worldwide -
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S. territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground or equivalent services. We try to keep our shipping cost to customers within reason. Therefore, we don't ship our products in a fancy-looking package with our company name and/or logo on it because most customers will just toss it in the trash after they remove the contents.


We Accept PayPal, Visa, MasterCard, American Express & Discover Credit & Debit Cards
(When placing an order through PayPal, please provide a list of which parts you need.)

To make a payment to A-1 Miller's through PayPal, go to PayPal's secure website ( https://www.paypal.com/ ) and click on Send and Request -> Pay for goods or services. Type in my email address, or copy and paste this: pullingtractor@aol.com, the amount and follow the directions. Be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment is for. After you've finished, PayPal will send A-1 Miller's an email notifying me that you have made a payment to A-1 Miller's for the product(s) or services and amount entered. Then I go to their website and direct PayPal to deposit the money in my bank account. And I will send the parts to you as soon as I receive your payment. But I may have to order some of the parts if they're not in stock, which should take a few days. In that case, I will send you the parts as soon as they come in. PayPal protects your financial privacy and security. With PayPal, privacy is built in. It's a way for you to pay without exposing their financial information.