As of 2022, A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises is still in business and offering all parts and services listed
in this website.
As of 2022, A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises is still in business and offering all parts and services listed
in this website.
Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website. |
Prices are subject to change without notice. FYI - All aftermarket parts that is offered in this website are of very high quality and come with an unconditional guarantee. As a matter of fact, the aftermarket parts are just as good or better quality than most OEM Kohler parts.
FYI - Being nobody have ever brought a single- or two-cylinder Onan or Wisconsin engine to my shop for repairs, I have no experience with working on them. Apparently, these engines must be rare in my area (mid-Missouri). Otherwise, I would offer custom-made electronic ignition conversion kits for these engines, too. - Brian Miller |
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Conventional (Points and Condenser) Ignition Parts -
 Ignition
Points for Kohler, Tecumseh and Clinton engines. Fits Kohler engine models
K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181,
L161, L181, K241, K301,
K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first
design) KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582 with magneto or battery ignition
(use with mounting bracket). Also fits Tecumseh cast iron block engine models
HH80, HH100, HH120 with magneto or battery ignition (use without mounting
bracket); and Clinton engine models 414, 418, 420, 422 (use without mounting
bracket). Also, use this part when converting from Breakerless Ignition to
battery-powered points/condenser ignition. IMPORTANT: Sometimes oxidation
will form on new points contacts from sitting in storage, even when wrapped
in plastic. This happens A LOT with small engine and automotive ignition
points. Therefore, while the points are closed under pressure, use a clean
steel fingernail file or
ignition points file to remove any oxidation/debris
between the contacts, then drag a piece of clean lint-free paper through
the contacts to remove any left-over residue, and use
brake parts cleaner,
electrical/electronic contact cleaner,
cleaning solvent or
paint thinner (these leave no oily residue) and then use
150± psi compressed air with an
air blow gun nozzle to clean any remaining debris and metal
filings from the contacts. This will guarantee 100% connection with the points.
Do not use sanding material, such as sandpaper or emery cloth, to clean any
electrical contacts! These will leave a gritty residue between the contacts,
causing a faulty connection. And virtually any magneto point ignition system
can be converted to a more reliable solid state ignition with the universal
electronic transistorized ignition module
that I offer, or if possible, upgrade/convert the engine with my reliable
custom-made battery-powered flywheel-trigger
electronic ignition for a better running engine.
  Hex Socket (Allen) Head Cap Screw w/split lock washer.
Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181,
L161, L181, K241, K301,
K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first
design) KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582. Also fits Tecumseh cast iron
block engine models HH80, HH100, HH120; and Clinton engine models 414, 418,
420, 422. Replaces OEM slotted or Phillips head adjustment screw in points.
This stainless steel Allen head screw makes it much easier to precisely set
the point gap and/or ignition timing with a 9/64" hex (Allen) L-wrench than
the OEM slotted or Phillips screw with a straight or Phillips screwdriver
so the points will not slip out of adjustment in garden tractors with a
longitudinal engine, such as Cub Cadet, Economy Power King,
Ford, hydrostatic-drive John Deere, MTD Farm King Model 960, Pennsylvania
Panzer, Meteor, Copar, etc. No need to use this for garden tractors with
a
transverse engine, such as older Bolens, belt-drive John
Deere, Massey Ferguson, Sears Suburban, Wheel Horse, etc. NOTE: The threads
for the adjustment screw in aftermarket points may need to be rethreaded
with a 8-32 UNF [preferably]
TAPER hand tap.
And due to risk of stripping threads in the thin metal points bracket, do
not over-tighten this adjustment screw! A proven, ingenious and innovative
concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of
this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and
intelligence.) 
Billet Aluminum Chevy Points Bracket and Cover w/all mounting screws. Use on Kohler K-series K241, K301, K321, K341, K361 competition pulling engines. Professionally CNC machined of thick aluminum to minimize timing fluctuations. $40.00, plus shipping & handling. TIP: To prevent small Phillips- or slotted-head screws from falling out of the screwdriver tip when installing either in a hard to reach place, for ordinary steel screws, temporarily magnetize the screwdriver by rubbing a magnet several times along the length of the shank, or for stainless steel screws, apply a dab of automotive grease in the head of the screw. |
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Ignition Points Pushrods. Each fits Kohler K-series
engine models K141, K160/K161, K181,
L161 and L181. NOTE:
Used pushrod to be no less than .184" in diameter and 1.265" in length. Measure
yours accurately with a
dial or
digital caliper to determine if it needs replacing.
Or use this part to convert from a failed Breakerless Ignition to the more
reliable battery-powered points and condenser ignition system.
Ignition Points Pushrods. Each fits Kohler K-series engine models K90/K91, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, K482, K532 and K582. NOTE: Used pushrod to be no less than .184" in diameter and 1.500" in length. Measure yours accurately with a dial or digital caliper to determine if it needs replacing. Or use this part to convert from a failed Breakerless Ignition to the more reliable battery-powered points and condenser ignition system.
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  3/16" I.D. Neoprene Rubber O-Ring. Installs on points pushrod
close to engine block, allowing any seepage of crankcase oil to drip down,
staying off points contacts. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160,
K181, L161 and L181, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, K482, K532 and K582. But
if the ignition points pushrod hole is excessively worn, this will effect
the ignition timing as well, and the block will need to be machined for
installation of a bronze sleeve bushing, or the hole can be plugged, and
solid state or a custom-made flywheel-
or crank-trigger electronic ignition
system can be installed. (The translucent silicone rubber diaphragm seal
(part # 220074-S) is no longer available from Kohler.)
[Return to previous paragraph, section
or website]
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 Ignition Points
Cover Gaskets. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181,
L161, L181, K241, K301,
K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first
design) KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582. Protects points contacts from
dust, dirt and water contamination. Also, use this part when converting from
Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition.
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 Grommet for
Ignition Points Cover/Wire. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160,
K181, L161 and L181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17, KT17
Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582. Prevents dust and
dirt from contaminating points contacts, and protects points wire from
rubbing/chafing against points cover or use this part when converting from
Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition. FYI:
RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant will serve the same
purpose.
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 Points
Cover. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, L161
and L181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17
Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582. Protects
points contacts from dust, dirt and water contamination. Also, use this part
when converting from Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser
ignition. Made of 16 gauge stamped steel. Points cover for Kohler engines
with push-button kill switch for self-energizing magneto ignition is no longer
available.
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 "Assemble It
Yourself" Points-to-Ignition Coil Wire Kit. Replace OEM wire with
frayed/cracked insulation and/or broken connector(s) to prevent a short circuit
and/or engine misfire. Fits Kohler engines with battery-powered ignition,
models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, L161 and L181, K241, K301, K321,
K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design)
KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582. Includes 22" length (cut to desired
length) x #16 gauge (AWG) insulated stranded copper wire and two uninstalled
crimp connectors. Requires use of
electrical connector crimping pliers. High quality A-1
Miller's parts. Replaces Kohler part # A-230371-S.
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 Points Pushrod
Hole Block-Off Plate for Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181,
K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series
II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582. Use this part
to cover points pushrod hole when converting engine to electronic ignition.
Apply RTV silicone sealant to prevent oil leak and use OEM ignition points
mounting screws to secure plate in place.
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| NOTE: If an engine idles well, but runs erratically when
revved up, like it hits and misses, pops and backfires, then chances are,
it needs a new condenser/capacitor. And always install a condenser/capacitor
with the wire facing downward so rain water and/or when washing off engine,
water will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it. With water inside
the condenser, this will also allow it to idle well, but cause it to run
erratically when revved up.
Click/tap here to hear what an
engine with a faulty condenser/capacitor sounds like. And virtually
any magneto point ignition system can be converted to a more reliable solid
state ignition with the universal electronic
transistorized ignition module that I offer, or if possible, upgrade/convert
the engine with my reliable custom-made battery-powered
flywheel-trigger electronic ignition
for a better running engine.
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 High Quality
Copper Core/Non-Resistor Spark Plugs. Designed for Kohler engine models
K90/K91, smaller flathead Briggs & Stratton, smaller flathead Tecumseh
engines, most chainsaws and most 2-cycle small engines. Copper core spark
plugs provides a stronger spark that allow the ignition coil to operate cooler
and last longer. For best engine performance and longevity of the coil, set
gap at .025" with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition
system, .035" with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with
a high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 3/8" thread
reach, flat washer seat. Replaces Briggs and Stratton part # 802592S.
 High Quality Copper
Core/Non-Resistor Spark Plugs. Designed for Kohler opposed twin-cylinder
flathead engine models MV16, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II,
M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Copper core spark plugs provides a stronger spark
that allow the ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. For best
engine performance and longevity of the coil, set gap at .025" with a
self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system, .035"
with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with a
high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 15/32" thread
reach, tapered seat.
 High Quality Copper
Core/Non-Resistor Spark Plugs. Designed for most makes and models of
OHV aluminum block single- and V-twin air-cooled small engines. Copper core
spark plugs provides a stronger spark that allow the ignition coil to operate
cooler and last longer. For best engine performance and longevity of the
coil, set gap at .025" with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic
ignition system, .035" with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and
.060" with a high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x
5/8" thread reach, flat washer seat.
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 Spark Plug
Grommet. Fits Kohler (Quiet Line) engine models K181AQS, M8, K241AQS,
K301AQS, K321AQS and K341AQS. Fastens directly on spark plug in air duct
shield (sheet metal) over cylinder head to help cool the head better. Made
of neoprene rubber.
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  Indexing
Washers for Flat Seat Spark Plugs with 14mm Threads. Positions spark
plug in flathead engines combustion chamber with the open/exposed gap facing
the center of the piston for up to 10% more power and torque when using tractor
under extreme conditions, such as heavy mowing, garden plowing, pushing/blowing
snow, or for competition pulling. To know exactly where the open gap is when
the spark plug is installed, use a felt tip ink marker
(Sharpie,
Magic Marker,
Marks-A-Lot) to place a mark (line) on the porcelain in-line
with the open gap at the tip of the spark plug as shown in the photo to the
right ->. And on flat seat spark plugs, leave the original compression
washer on the spark plug and add the indexing washer(s) as needed, tighten
spark plug until the open gap faces near the center of the piston. Available
in the following thicknesses: .005", .010" and .015". Made of hardened steel.
.75¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
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  Grounding-Type Safety Break-Away / Kill Switch with Pull-Pin.
Use for competition pulling only; mount on rear of tractor. When the
pin pulled, it grounds the ignition coil from producing spark. If using with
a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition systems: Connect
one wire to the chassis ground, and connect the other wire to the
points/condenser wire or to the kill terminal on the solid state electronic
ignition coil/module. If using with a battery-powered ignition system: Connect
one wire to the chassis ground, and connect the other wire to the coil negative
(–) terminal. NOTE: With battery-powered ignition, as soon as pin
is pulled (engine will die), manually shut off ignition switch right away
to prevent possible damage to the ignition coil and electronic ignition module
if equipped with crank-trigger
ignition. This type of switch does not disable power to the electric
fuel pump on a pulling tractor. The electric
fuel pump must be shut-off manually by the ignition switch or an OFF-ON
toggle/flip switch or [security] key switch.
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   High Quality
Universal Self-Grounding OFF/ON Switches. Designed for use with
Self-Energizing Magneto Ignition, Solid State Ignition, OEM Solid State
Ignition (SSI) for Tecumseh's Cast Iron Block Engines, or with OEM Kohler
Breakerless Ignition. These can be used on virtually any small engine
installed on lawn and garden equipment, garden tillers, go-karts, chainsaws,
log splitters, portable air compressors, portable generators/welders, portable
water pumps, etc. with a magneto or solid state ignition, and a recoil/rope
starter or a push-button switch with an electric
starter motor to crank
the engine. Very durable, tough switches.
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 High Quality Universal OFF/ON Switches for
Battery-Powered Ignition and Electrical Accessories. Very durable, tough
switches. Either can be used for ignition, lights,
electric fuel
pump, electric PTO clutch, etc. When used for ignition, use with
push button starter switch (listed below). Terminals or wires on switches
listed below makes contact when in the ON position. Can be used on virtually
anything that have a battery-powered ignition or electrical system, such
as: garden tractors, go-karts, competition pulling tractors, small motorized
vehicles, mini-rods, hot-rods, farm tractors, automobiles, etc. Each can
be mounted in dashboard, instrument panel, engine control panel, etc.
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 High
Quality Universal Push Button Switches. Each can be mounted in pedestal,
dashboard, instrument panel, engine control panel, flywheel shroud, etc.
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 High Quality Universal 3-Position Off-Ignition-Start MAGNETO
Ignition Key Switch. Designed specifically for Self-Energizing Magneto
Ignition, Solid State Ignition, OEM Solid State Ignition (SSI) for Tecumseh's
Cast Iron Block Engines, or with OEM Kohler Breakerless Ignition. Can
be used for various makes and models of riding mowers, lawn & garden
tractors, garden tractors, competition garden pulling tractors and various
small engine equipment with magneto or solid state ignition. Identification
of 5 blade terminals: B = Battery [+]; G = Ground (terminal
is grounded to body of switch); L = Lights (use a separate OFF-ON
switch connected to this terminal to power an electric PTO clutch); M
= Magneto (Ignition); S = Solenoid (small terminal). Key positions:
OFF position makes contact with M+G; IGNITION position makes contact with
B+L; START position makes contact with B+S. Each terminal identified for
correct wiring connections. IMPORTANT: Use with a starter solenoid/relay
to crank the engine to prevent burning out internal contacts in switch. NOTE:
If engine is equipped with an alternator/stator charging system, the center
terminal on the voltage rectifier/regulator connects to the positive (+)
battery post. If using an ammeter/amp gauge, connect the gauge/meter to the
positive (+) battery post, then to the B terminal on the switch. Trace the
wires on your tractor/equipment to see if they match the terminals on this
switch. If they don't match, the plug-in spade connectors/wires can be rearranged
in the plastic connector housing to match the corresponding terminals on
the switch. To do this, use a small flat blade screwdriver to depress the
locking tab/tang so the plug-in connector can be pulled out from the plastic
connector housing. Bend the locking tab/tang up slightly before reinserting
it in the plastic connector so it will be secured in place. Or use #250
slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals
when connecting wires to switch. Requires 5/8" diameter mounting hole.
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 High Quality Universal 3-Position Off-Ignition-Start BATTERY
Ignition Key Switch. Designed specifically for Battery-Powered
Points/Condenser Ignition or Battery-Powered Flywheel/Crank-Trigger Aftermarket
Replacement Electronic Ignition. Can be used for various makes and models
of ordinary garden tractors, competition garden pulling tractors, small engine
equipment, small motorized vehicles, mini rod pulling tractors or hot rods
with battery-powered ignition or flywheel/crank trigger ignition. Identification
of 5 blade terminals are: I = Ignition; A = Auxiliary (electrical
accessories, such as lights, electric PTO clutch, etc.); R = Rectifier;
B = Battery [+]; S = Solenoid (small terminal). Key positions:
OFF position makes no contact with any of the other terminals; IGNITION position
makes contact with B+I+R+A; START position makes contact with B+I+R+S. Each
terminal identified for correct wiring connections. IMPORTANT: Must be used
with a starter solenoid to crank the engine to prevent burning out internal
contacts in switch. If using an ammeter/amp gauge, connect the gauge/meter
to the positive (+) battery post, then to the B terminal on the switch. Trace
the wires on your tractor/equipment to see if they match the terminals on
this switch. If they don't match, the plug-in spade connectors/wires can
be rearranged in the plastic connector housing to match the corresponding
terminals on the switch. To do this, use a small flat blade screwdriver to
depress the locking tab/tang so the plug-in connector can be pulled out from
the plastic connector housing. Bend the locking tab/tang up slightly before
reinserting it in the plastic connector so it will be secured in place. Or
use #250
slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals
when connecting wires to switch. Requires 9/16" diameter mounting hole.
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 3-Position
Off-Ignition-Start BATTERY Ignition Key Switch. Fits IH-built Cub Cadet
garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108,
109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 154, 184, 185
and LO BOY. Universal applications; can also be used for various makes and
models of ordinary garden tractors, competition garden pulling tractors,
small engine equipment, small motorized vehicles, mini rod pulling tractors
or hot rods with battery-powered ignition or flywheel/crank trigger ignition.
For universal applications, use with #250
slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors. Identification
of 3 blade terminals are: BAT = positive (+) battery post; IGN
= Positive [+] Terminal on Ignition Coil ; ST = Starter Solenoid.
IMPORTANT: Must be used with a starter solenoid to crank engine to prevent
burning out internal contacts in switch. Unlike key switches listed above,
this switch comes with a serrated key.
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 Universal Wiring
Harness with Plastic Housing Connector. Fits universal OFF-IGNITION-START
key switches listed above and other key switches with same terminal
configuration. Three terminals will also fit the OEM Cub Cadet garden tractor
ignition key switch. Replace damaged wiring and connector, use as new wiring
harness on a custom-made project, or use this part when converting from
Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition. 18" length
color-coded wires for easy identification. $13.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
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 OFF/ON
Main/Master Disconnect/Cutoff Switch with Removable Key. Use this
100 amp capacity switch to disable all power throughout the equipment to
prevent sabotage an/or an accidental electrical short that could burn up
the wiring system or entire equipment. Useful when equipment is not used
for a period of time to prevent a slow drain on the battery, prevent short
circuits when performing electrical service on equipment, or for a pulling
tractor to prevent accidental starts or to prevent sabotage at the pull sites
by disgruntled pullers. Connect between negative (–) battery post and
equipment ground. Copper terminals with brass hex nuts for improved continuity.
Comes with protective weather cap and two removable nylon key locks. Mounting
hardware not included. $19.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
[Return to previous paragraph, section
or website] |
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 Armature
Ignition Coil with Integrated Solid State Electronic Integrated Module.
Fits Kohler Magnum engine model M8. NOTE: Install this coil with spark
plug wire facing engine block as shown in photo to the right ->. Set the
air gap/clearance between the magnet in the flywheel and armature laminations
at .010" with a paper or brass feeler gauge. The .010" gap produces a stronger
magnetic field through the coil to generate more power for a stronger spark,
and so the engine won't misfire. IMPORTANT: Use a new copper
core/non-resistor AC Delco, Autolite or Champion spark plug of the correct
type gapped at .025" for longer coil life. Use of a resistor type or
NGK spark plug will void
warranty.
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 Armature Ignition
Coil with Integrated Solid State Electronic Integrated Magnetron™ Module.
Fits Briggs and Stratton horizontal and vertical shaft opposed twin cylinder
engines. NOTE: Install this coil with spark plug wires facing engine block
as shown in photo to the right ->. Set the air gap/clearance between the
magnet in the flywheel and armature laminations at .010" with a paper or
brass feeler gauge. The .010" gap produces a stronger magnetic field through
the coil to generate more power for a stronger spark, and so the engine won't
misfire. IMPORTANT: Use new copper core/non-resistor AC Delco, Autolite
or Champion spark plugs of the correct type gapped at .015" each for longer
coil life. Use of resistor type or
NGK spark plugs will void
warranty.
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To test for the
continually of an ignition coil (to see if it's in good condition), use a
multimeter set on the Ohm ( ) resistance. Insert
one of the multimeter's probes into the spark plug terminal of the coil,
contacting the metal inside the terminal. Touch the second probe of the meter
to the ignition coil's negative (–) terminal. (This is the one not connected
to the primary resistor.) Depending on the type of coil (magneto, small size,
standard size or high output/performance), the meter should read 6,000 to
15,000 ohms. If it does not, the coil's secondary winding is
faulty. |
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 Magneto Armature
Ignition Coil. Fits Kohler engine model K91 with self-energizing magneto
ignition. May not fit model K90 with magneto ignition. Spark plug wire (not
included) inserts into front/outward curvature of coil. Reuse OEM spark plug
wire. NOTE: This coil should produce a stronger spark when used with the
Universal Solid State Electronic Ignition
Module. Or the engine can be
converted to battery-powered
ignition. Dimensions: 1.700" O.D. x 1.080" length x 1/2" x 1/2" square
hole. How
magneto coils generate a spark. IMPORTANT: Use a new copper
core/non-resistor AC Delco, Autolite or Champion spark plug of the correct
type gapped at .025" for longer coil life. Use of a resistor type or
NGK spark plug will void
warranty.
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   Magneto Armature
Ignition Coils. Fits certain Kohler K-series engine models K181, L161
and L181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331 and K341 with points, condenser/capacitor
and coil under flywheel. Common with Kohler engines mounted to a generator
or welder. Also fits most small- and medium-frame aluminum block Tecumseh
engines with points, condenser/capacitor and coil under flywheel. NOTES:
These coils should produce a stronger spark when used with the
Universal Solid State Electronic Ignition
Module. Also, each coil listed below can be substituted for the obsolete
OEM Kohler part # 275756 coil by grinding down the laminations on the armature
to .405" x .405" square. Do not grind out inside of coil! To secure coil
on the armature, bend one lamination over end of coil. Or engine could be
converted to the more reliable
battery-powered ignition system. Dimensions of each coil: 1.700"
O.D. x 1.080" length x .405" square hole.
How
magneto coils generate a spark. IMPORTANT: Use a new copper
core/non-resistor AC Delco, Autolite or Champion spark plug of the correct
type gapped at .025" for longer coil life. Use of a resistor type or
NGK spark plug will void
warranty.
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 Magneto Armature
Ignition Coil. Fits various Kohler engine models K90, K141, K161, K181,
L161 and L181 with coil
mounted on U-shaped ignition stator on bearing plate underneath flywheel
with magnet rotor on crankshaft. Also fits various larger cast iron block
Clinton engines with coil/armature mounted on cylinder, above flywheel. Common
with certain generator engines. Spark plug wire not included. NOTE: This
coil should produce a stronger spark when used with the
Universal Solid State Electronic Ignition
Module. Or the engine could be
converted to battery-powered
ignition. Dimensions: 1.750" diameter x 1.450" length x .505" square
hole. How
magneto coils generate a spark. IMPORTANT: Use a new copper
core/non-resistor AC Delco, Autolite or Champion spark plug of the correct
type gapped at .025" for longer coil life. Use of a resistor type or
NGK spark plug will void
warranty.
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| Ignition Coils -
IMPORTANT: Most failures of a battery-powered
ignition coils and/or electronic ignition control modules are caused by either
the use of suppression/carbon-core spark plug wire(s), resistor-type spark
plug(s), or overcharging of the electrical system due to a defective voltage
rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery. Therefore, if it's
not already equipped, it's best to install an
ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging
system. Also, any coil will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with
the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running.
To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use
an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect
switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power
the ignition system. Also, the coil could burn up if the charging system
continually overcharge due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or
a defective [automotive] battery.
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 New
1.6 ohm Ballast Resistor for use with a 12 volt ignition coil not
having an internal resistor (listed above) to prevent excessive burning of
points contacts, or use with the Chrysler / Dodge / Plymouth (MOPAR) electronic
ignition control module/unit, or connect with coil having a minimum 1.4 ohm
internal primary resistor to prevent burning up the
DynaTek Dyna S electronic ignition control
modules. Install between the coil positive [+] terminal and wire coming from
the ignition switch to the coil. This will allow the points to possibly last
the life of the engine. NOTE: Ignition resistors with a higher
ohm value are known
as "Point Savers." The higher the ohm resistance in an ignition coil or a
ballast resistor has, the longer the ignition points will last (as long as
the points are installed clean, and doesn't become contaminated with dust,
oil, water, etc.). Any 12 volt ignition coil with an 3+ ohm internal primary
resistor connected to a minimum 1.6 ohm ballast resistor when used in a points
and condenser/capacitor ignition system will allow the points to possibly
last the life of the engine. Because the increased resistance allows a very
low current/voltage to pass through the contacts in the points. Also, a
suppression/carbon-core coil-to-spark plug wire and resistor type spark plug
shouldn't be used in this system due to overheating of the ignition coil.
Therefore, it's best that a high temperature metal core conductor coil-to-spark
plug wire and copper core/non-resistor spark plug be used. The ignition system
will still produce a strong spark because an average small engine requires
only a fraction of voltage from the coil. This is best to used with general
lawn and garden, snow removal, etc., and not for competitive pulling. Therefore,
if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an
ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging
system. $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
|
| IMPORTANT: Most failures of a
battery-powered ignition coils and/or electronic ignition control modules
are caused by either the use of suppression/carbon-core spark plug wire(s),
resistor-type spark plug(s), or overcharging of the electrical system due
to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery.
Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an
ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging
system. Also, any coil will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with
the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running.
To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use
an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect
switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power
the ignition system. Also, the coil could burn up if the charging system
continually overcharge due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or
a defective [automotive] battery.
Click here to install electronic ignition
on the KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series
II engines.
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|
   High Quality
High Performance Copper or Metal Core 7mm Spark Plug Wire Assemblies Listed
Below. Universal design for many applications. Suitable for general lawn
& garden equipment, small motorized vehicles or competition garden pulling
tractor engines. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181,
L161, L181, K241, K301,
K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first
design) KT19 Series II, K482, K532, K582 and K660/K662 (with wires cut to
desired length) and other makes and models of small engines with a
battery-powered ignition system. Don't be fooled by the dark color, these
wires have a metal core that provide 100% voltage to the spark plug for a
strong spark! Copper or metal wire delivers maximum energy with zero ohm
resistance to the spark plug, which allow the ignition coil to operate cooler
and last longer. (Most OEM automotive or brightly-colored coil-to-spark plug
wires have a suppression/carbon core that deliver about 40%-50% voltage to
the spark plug at peak demand, which is at wide open throttle engine operation.)
Solid brass terminals for maximum conductivity and corrosion resistance.
Snug-fitting quality rubber boots keep out dirt and moisture for reliable
engine start up. Engineered for reliability and long life. Spring-lock terminals
insure positive and secure connection through the toughest conditions and
multiple spark plug changes.
 Please
specify if you need the boot for a 5/8" (fits most dual wire twin cylinder
coils and high-output/performance coils) or 3/4" (fits most standard-output
coils) diameter coil tower.
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|
| Complete
Battery-Powered Ignition Conversion Kits Listed Below - When
Kohler's OEM magneto or Breakerless Ignition fails, the engine can be converted
to a battery-powered ignition system. Battery-powered ignition systems last
longer, produce a stronger spark, and when a part goes bad, it doesn't cost
much to replace. It's a reliable, simple design and there's no guesswork
about it. FYI: Battery-powered ignition conversion kits are intended mainly
for various older engines when the OEM magneto or Breakerless Ignition no
longer produce a spark, replacement parts are not available, are very expensive
or cost prohibitive. (Sometimes one must improvise when certain parts are
obsolete.) Also, the most hassle when using battery-powered ignition without
a charging system integrated with the engine to recharge the battery is the
use of a remote battery charger. And eventually a new battery will need to
be purchased, because they only last a few years. For a battery to power
the ignition, a small, lightweight and rechargeable
12 volt sealed lead acid (SLA) battery with a minimum 4Ah
(Amp Hour) rating or a small
motorcycle battery can be used.
FYI - Kohler's Breakerless Ignition and Tecumseh's (cast iron engine) Solid State Ignition (SSI) systems use a [security] key switch that's also made for a self-energizing magneto or magneto-type solid state ignition system. Unlike the key switch for a battery-powered ignition system, the Breakerless Ignition is self-energizing, and to kill the engine, the key switch grounds out or shorts the [low voltage] circuit between the energizing coil and ignition module. And the battery-powered key switch opens the circuit to kill the engine. So with the battery-powered points and condenser ignition system (along with a 12 volt coil), you will need to use a battery-powered key switch, or an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or [security] key switch to power the ignition and a momentary push button starter switch to crank the engine could be used instead. If swapping out the OEM Breakerless Ignition, SSI, magneto or solid state ignition key switch for a battery-powered ignition key switch, the wire connectors in the wiring harness plug will need to be rearranged to match the terminals on the key switch to power the ignition, crank the engine and run other electrical accessories. I've done this before on some of my customer's garden tractors and it works great. Click/tap here for battery-powered ignition wiring diagrams. |
|
 Several years
ago, an out of town customer brought his John Deere model 110 to our shop
for repairs. This tractor has a Kohler engine model K181 with self-energizing
magneto ignition and a 10 amp alternator charging system. (The ignition coil
and charging coils are on the same armature/stator plate under the flywheel.)
My customer told me that he had another reputable small engine repair shop
in his hometown install a new spark plug, points, condenser and an entirely
new stator assembly, but they could not get the engine to rev up.
Anyway, I put the tractor on the sturdy
platform table that I
built to make it easier to work on. The engine would start right up and idle
well, but failed to rev up. It would just die out when throttled up. So I
cleaned and inspected the entire carburetor, including clearing out anything
that may have been lodged in the main jet; tried a new Autolite 295 copper
core spark plug gapped at .030"; cleaned and reset the points gap; tried
another new condenser; So after some thoughtful consideration, I came to the conclusion that the OEM Kohler part # 237876 self-energizing magneto ignition/charging system stator assembly is obviously a notorious, bad design. Although this system is still available new from Kohler, Kohler discontinued installing this on certain engines only after a short time. (Apparently, for an obvious reason.)
If you have a similar ignition problem like this and if you're interested, I offer all the parts, including a new compact epoxy-encapsulated 12 volt armature ignition coil kit, that can be used to convert the self-energizing magneto ignition to battery-powered ignition for your tractor. See the complete ignition conversion kit(s) below. I can also convert your tractor from a faulty magneto ignition to the more reliable battery-powered ignition if you don't mind bringing your tractor to my shop. - Brian Miller Click here to contact A-1 Miller's for FREE honest and accurate technical support and/or for ordering information and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website. [Top of Page]
Convert virtually any single cylinder, air-cooled cast iron or various aluminum block small gas engine, such as Kohler, Tecumseh, Briggs & Stratton, Clinton, etc., with a failed self-energizing magneto ignition system to the battery-powered ignition system. NOTE: Must use a universal automotive off/ignition/start key switch, or a push-button switch to crank the engine with an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or [security] key switch to power this ignition. Reuse same type of spark plug and existing ignition points (if in good condition), but set the point gap at .020" or set ignition timing at 20º BTDC. See ignition kits and wiring diagram below Ê.
High Quality Ignition Kit to Convert from Kohler Magneto Ignition to the More Reliable Battery-Powered Ignition System for an Unconfined Engine Compartment with Unlimited Space to mount a full size canister coil. A fully charged 12 volt battery is required for this ignition system. Designed for Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, L161, L181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331 and K341. When ordering, please indicate model of engine. New parts include: full size 12 volt canister ignition coil w/3.0 ohm internal primary resistor and mounting bracket, 11" length metal core conductor spark plug wire, medium capacity condenser/capacitor, ignition points, points cover gasket, 12" length "assemble-it-yourself" #16 gauge (AWG) coil-to-points wire w/terminals (reuse original points cover/wire grommet), and new spark plug (please specify model of engine when ordering for correct type of spark plug). Set spark plug gap at .035" with this system. And if using this kit on an engine with a recoil starter, as for the battery cables, being I have no idea how long they need to be, you will need to fabricate these yourself. IMPORTANT - Either an OFF-ON-START battery-powered ignition key switch or an OFF-ON toggle/flip ignition switch or an OFF-ON key ignition switch (for security purposes) and a momentary push button starter switch (to crank the engine if it is equipped with an electric starter) MUST be used with this type of ignition system. Go here for choice of switches. And the original magneto coil can be removed from the stator. It will not be needed. If the stator has charging coils, leave them installed and connected so they can recharge the battery and power electrical accessories. IMPORTANT - All coils will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system.
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| New points, condensers/capacitors, coils and spark plugs for other makes and models of engines are also available. Please call or email A-1 Miller's for your needs. Click here to contact A-1 Miller's for FREE honest and accurate technical support and/or for ordering information and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website. [Top of Page] | |
Get that
old, antique small gas engine running again with 21st century
technology using 100% reliable digital electronic ignition, even when new
replacement parts are obsolete or cost-prohibited. Electronic ignition can
be installed on virtually any small gas engine. Where there's a will, there's
a way. It's mind over matter.
Click here
to contact A-1 Miller's for FREE honest and accurate technical support and/or
for ordering information and payment options. Please contact A-1
Miller's
if you need a part or parts,
or service performed that's not listed or mentioned in this
website. [Top of Page]
FYI - I can install virtually any of my custom-made flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition systems on your older small gas engine and/or rewire your lawn & garden tractor, small engine equipment, small motorized vehicle or competition garden pulling tractor so all the electrical accessories will work and if everything else is in good condition with the engine (compression, carburetion, etc.), the engine should start quickly, idle well and rev up to its full potential every time. I have the knowledge, skills, all the tools and parts necessary to perform a professional job. I've rewired many of my customer's lawn & garden tractors, small engine equipment and competition garden pulling tractors with great results. If you're interested, click/tap here for my contact information and directions to A-1 Miller's shop. - Brian Miller
This is the era of modern wonders, where everything is electronic, transistorized, digitized and miniaturized. Yet even today, many competition garden pulling tractors with an older engine still use the old-fashioned breaker point ignition systems. For other people, the frustration of attempting to keep a breaker point-fired tractor in peak running condition has been enough of a reason to join the electronic/solid state electronic ignition era. Breaker point systems do have some positives, though. ignition points are cheap and somewhat easy to install. And many people are comfortable with installing their own ignition points. The bad side of using ignition points is, besides the ignition points contacts burning, pitting and wearing out, if or when the ignition points lobe on the (Kohler) camshaft and/or the ignition points pushrod become worn, this will narrow the gap on the ignition points, and retard the ignition timing. The ignition points lobe can wear so much that resetting the ignition points at the factory setting of .020" or setting the ignition timing at 20º BTDC becomes impossible. As the point gap gets too narrow, the ignition timing will become retarded (less than the factory setting of 20º BTDC), which will cause the engine to run sluggish and lose power, and when it gets too wide, the timing will become too advanced (more than the factory setting of 20º BTDC), which will cause the engine to run hotter than normal, which could cause premature engine wear and oil burning, eventually resulting in an engine rebuild. There's also less chance of a dangerous fire due to non-existence of ignition points.
Self-energizing small engine magneto armature
ignition coils and battery-powered coils with either points and condenser
or electronic ignition must be used with a metal core conductor spark plug
wire and a copper core/non-resistor spark plug. Most automobiles with electronic
ignition have
suppression/carbon core spark plug wires only to prevent
interference of sensitive electronic components and [AM/FM] radio static.
However, if a suppression/carbon core spark plug wire and/or a resistor type
spark plug is used with a magneto or battery-powered ignition coil, the coil
may operate at a much higher than normal temperature (too hot to the touch),
and either the coil will fail or the engine will idle well, but hesitate
to rev up at high RPM due to the high resistance in the suppression/carbon
core spark plug wire and/or a resistor type spark plug. And avoid using a
suppression/carbon core spark plug wire with an electronic
ignition system on a small engine! The reason being is if the suppression/carbon
core spark plug wire becomes extremely weak and deteriorated with very high
resistance, this can cause the ignition coil and possibly the electronic
ignition control module to burn up.
NOTE: With my Universal Solid State Electronic Ignition Module and crank-trigger/flywheel-trigger ignition systems (all listed below), when installed accordingly, the ignition timing is ALWAYS advanced. If it's set or installed retarded, it will NOT automatically advance as soon as the engine starts. If the timing is set retarded, the only way to advance it is by rotating an ignition plate or ignition distributor manually by hand, or automatically by a vacuum canister with intake manifold, or by centrifugal force with flyweights.
When the timing is retarded, the engine may start with no problems, but not idle or rev up too well, and it'll lack sufficient power. Also, with retarded timing, all of the fuel in the combustion chamber will not be burned. Part of the raw fuel will exit out of the exhaust, while the rest will remain in the chamber combustion and cling to the cylinder wall, causing the crankcase lubricating oil to become diluted or thin-out. When this happens, "cylinder wash down" will result. Cylinder wash down is when the gas (or diesel fuel) dilutes the light coating of oil on the cylinder wall, and the piston rings will no longer be adequately lubricated, causing direct metal to metal contact, which will cause them to wear excessively, and cause the cylinder wall have a protruding ridge towards the top, resulting in a smoky, oil burning engine overtime. Cylinder wash down can also happen to a diesel engine when the fuel injectors are purposely "turned up" to increase the fuel delivery so the engine will produce more power. This will cause a lot of black smoke be blown out the exhaust all the time (at idle and especially upon acceleration), which will result in shorter engine life, and eventually, gray exhaust smoke (crankcase oil ash) will be mixed with the black exhaust smoke (partially burned diesel fuel ash). It'll run good for a while!
But when the ignition timing is too advanced, this will cause the engine to run too hot, which will likely cause the piston(s) to swell larger than normal, allowing it/them to make metal to metal contact against the cylinder wall, resulting in excessive wear. When the piston wears, it will be too loose in the cylinder, causing a rattling sound. Plus, due to the worn piston, the rings will loose their square edge against the cylinder wall, and become rounded, which will allow oil to be moved to the top of the piston instead of being scraped back into the crankcase. (This is the how the 2nd or middle ring works.) Plus, the rings will lose their expansion against the cylinder wall as well. Eventually, the engine will blow blue or gray smoke out the exhaust, and it will ultimately need to be rebuilt.
If electronic ignition is installed correctly, when the ignition is triggered by the flywheel, this stabilizes the timing, so you won't ever have to worry about it changing. The engine will produce more power and you will have more confidence that the engine will last longer. (As long as an air filter is used, the carburetor is adjusted correctly and the crankcase oil is changed regularly.) So for the utmost precision ignition timing and maintenance-free convenience, flywheel-trigger electronic ignition is the way to go! The high performance electronic ignition systems offered in this website produce a stable and very strong spark with the use of microelectronics. They will allow the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly, rev up at open RPM with no hesitation or misfire and produce more power.
As a matter of fact, electronic ignition works so well, this is why most small engine manufacturers dropped their points and condenser ignition and went to the more dependable and reliable electronic ignition in 1982. And most automotive manufacturers started installing the more dependable and reliable electronic ignition in their vehicles since 1972 (Chrysler products) and 1974 (GM and Ford products).
Tired of cleaning, changing or constantly readjusting the ignition points, and replacing the condenser? Well, upgrade/convert the engine with an A-1 Miller's custom-made, maintenance-free and weather-proof 100% digitized flywheel-trigger electronic ignition system! Shock and moisture resistant, and all it takes is a few simple hand tools to install. In my opinion, getting rid of the points and condenser/capacitor have been the best advance ever in engine technology. FYI - I've designed and sold many various custom-made electronic ignition systems to customers for the past several years and haven't received one complaint about the performance of their engine. Because I use technology that I learned from experiences with my competitive competition pulling tractors (engines) to help factory stock lawn & garden engines perform better. And as a matter of fact, other people have emailed or called me to complain to me about my competitor's replacement electronic ignition systems for Tecumseh engines. They said their technical customer service assistance to resolve the problem was of no help. No joke. Apparently, my competitors haven't quite figured it out yet.
FYI - Kohler's Breakerless Ignition and Tecumseh's (cast iron engine) Solid State Ignition (SSI) systems use a key switch that's also made for a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system. Unlike the key switch for a battery-powered ignition system, the Breakerless Ignition is self-energizing, and to kill the engine, the key switch grounds out or shorts the [low voltage] circuit between the energizing coil and ignition module. And the battery-powered key switch opens the circuit to kill the engine. So with the battery-powered points and condenser ignition system (along with a 12 volt coil), you will need to use a battery-powered key switch, or an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or [security] key switch to power the ignition and a momentary push button starter switch to crank the engine could be used instead. If swapping out the OEM Breakerless Ignition, SSI, magneto or solid state ignition key switch for a battery-powered ignition key switch, the wire connectors in the wiring harness plug will need to be rearranged to match the terminals on the key switch to power the ignition, crank the engine and run other electrical accessories. I've done this before on some of my customer's garden tractors and it works great. Click/tap here for battery-powered ignition wiring diagrams.
Replace Old-Fashioned, Out-Dated and
Troublesome Points and Condenser in Virtually Any Magneto Ignition System
with the State of the Art Universal Solid State Electronic Ignition
Module! | [Top of Page]
Wiring Diagram and Installation Instructions for Universal Solid State Electronic Magneto Ignition Module are as follows:
|
| Convert the Magneto
or Battery-Powered Points/Condenser Ignition System to a Reliable and
Maintenance-Free Flywheel-Triggered Battery-Powered Electronic Ignition System
on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301 or K321
with the Small Flywheel and Starter/Generator |
[Top of Page]
IMPORTANT: Most failures of a battery-powered ignition coils and/or electronic ignition control modules are caused by either the use of suppression/carbon-core spark plug wire(s), resistor-type spark plug(s), or overcharging of the electrical system due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery. Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging system. Also, any coil will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system. Also, the coil could burn up if the charging system continually overcharge due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or a defective [automotive] battery.
Directions to Install This Kit - Click/tap here to print out these installation instructions.
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PerTronix Ignitor hall effect module/sensor with black and red wires. Choice of flange mount or rear mount. IMPORTANT: Must be used with a minimum 3.0 ohm coil or module will burn up, and a sturdy, fabricated bracket to prevent timing fluctuations. Click here to learn how to check the ohms resistance in a coil. IMPORTANT - Connect RED wire to coil positive [+] terminal and to ignition switch (battery positive [+] post), and connect BLACK wire to coil negative [–] terminal. This module/sensor is not diode-protected. It will not burn up instantly if the wires are connected in reverse. Also, this module/sensor will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system. Use with small steel screw w/ring magnet (listed below) fastened on rotating disc, edge of flywheel or backside of flywheel (in the case of an Onan twin cylinder engine) to trigger the spark. $75.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
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Click here to contact A-1 Miller's for FREE honest and accurate technical support and/or for ordering information and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website. [Top of Page]
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If a Kohler flywheel has no projection (hump) or large bolt head for Breakerless Ignition, but does have a 3/4" wide area between the fins and ring gear (as shown in the photos above È), or a billet steel flywheel, to use a magnetic pickup coil, 3-wire inductive (detects iron/steel) proximity sensor, a small, short steel Phillips or button head socket (Allen) Head screw and a minimum 1/4" length aluminum spacer secured with a split lock washer or high strength liquid threadlocker (Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent) can be used as the signal detection for the flywheel-trigger electronic ignition. A steel dowel pin or knurled steel pin could be used instead of a screw or spiral pin, but because of exerted centrifugal force, the screw would be more secure due to its thread retention. FYI - Store a container of liquid threadlocker or Super Glue upright and not laying flat. The capped tip will not dry out and clog when stored upright.
The curvature or dome shaped heads of button- and Phillips-head screws makes them ideal for use on a trigger disc or flywheel. Spark occurs at the leading (high side) edge of the hump or screw, and not in the center of the hump or screw. When the magnetic pickup coil or cube-shaped proximity sensor is at the leading edge of the hump and when the S mark on the flywheel is aligned with the raised line on the bearing plate, it is at this point the timing is at 20º BTDC. But if the flywheel has the 3/4" wide area, but no projection (hump) or large bolt head, with the magnetic pickup coil or cube-shaped proximity sensor installed on the bearing plate and the 20º BTDC mark on the flywheel aligned with the raised line on the bearing plate.
When using an inductive proximity sensor, being proximity sensors detect a farther distance (up to 3/16") than a magnetic pickup coil, install a 3/4" length steel screw with a 1/4" length aluminum spacer (to retain flywheel balance). This will extend the detectable target 1/4" above the surface of the flywheel to prevent an out of time spark occurrence by part of the flywheel itself. Or if using a non-magnetic pickup coil, 3-wire hall effect proximity sensor or a hall effect PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor, a small ring magnet fastened by a small screw can be used to create a rotating magnet detection target. The head of the screw will become magnetized.
An 8-32 UNC or 10-32 UNF x 1/2" length screws with a split lock washer (and small magnet) only weighs about 1/10 of an ounce or 2.8 grams, so this will not make the flywheel significantly noticeably or dangerously out of balance. But if you're concerned about the flywheel being out of balance with the trigger screw/bolt, pin or screw w/ring magnet installed, the flywheel can be static balanced by weighing the flywheel and screw/bolt, pin or screw w/ring magnet separately on a precision scale, make a note of the exact weight of each item, and either install a stainless steel screw of the same exact weight as the trigger screw and magnet on the opposite side of the flywheel (180º apart), or drill a couple of shallow holes into the flywheel next to or beside the installed trigger screw/bolt, pin or screw w/ring magnet to put the flywheel back in balance. Make sure the flywheel is perfectly clean of dirt and debris, too. Actually, it's best to have the flywheel with the trigger screw/bolt, pin or screw w/ring magnet installed dynamically precision spin-balanced on a automotive balancing machine. Again, make sure the flywheel is perfectly clean of dirt and debris.
And for the ignition timing to be set at 20º BTDC, with the
S mark on the flywheel and raised line on the bearing plate
aligned, the screw will need to be located at 2-3/8" when using a magnetic
pickup coil or proximity sensor. This setup can be adapted to a Kohler engine
with the flywheel that has the starter/generator and gear starter alike.
Or it can be applied to an engine with a steel flywheel for competition pulling.
And the mounting holes in the angled bracket for the magnetic pickup coil
can be elongated for precise adjustment/setting of the timing.
If there's already a projection (hump) or
large bolt head on the flywheel, then there's no need to modify the flywheel
for this conversion or upgrade. If they're not already present, new 10-24
UNC threads will need to be
drilled
and tapped in the two raised bosses in the bearing plate to mount
the bracket for the sensor's bracket. An original, ingenious, thoroughly
researched and innovative concept invented by Brian Miller, because nobody
else advertise this for use on a small engine. Please accept no advertised
copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my
ingenuity and intelligence.)
Information About Converting from a Failed OEM Kohler Breakerless Ignition System to a Custom-Made Battery-Powered Electronic Ignition System or a Battery-Powered Points/Condenser Ignition System | [Top of Page]
The wire that connects from the stator (under
the flywheel) to the Kohler Breakerless Ignition Trigger Module or Tecumseh
Solid State Ignition Module generates about 250 volts (seriously) while the
engine is running at full governed speed. (Seriously; I tested it with an
accurate voltmeter.) Do not touch this wire/terminal with one bare hand and
the engine/chassis/frame with your other hand while the engine is running!
Electrical shock or electrocution could result! This wire is not required
with any of A-1 Miller's custom-made flywheel-trigger electronic ignition
systems. So snip it off or tape up the terminal.
NOTE: On all Kohler engines
with Breakerless Ignition, there is a tiny (3/16") brass cup/expansion cup
plug in the points pushrod hole. This is to prevent oil from leaking out
the crankcase with Breakerless Ignition. This plug MUST be removed to use
the points pushrod when converting to points/condenser ignition. To prevent
damage to certain moving parts inside the engine and possible eventual internal
engine failure, do not push this plug into the crankcase! It may NOT drain
out with the oil either. If it is pushed into the crankcase, the oil pan
will need to be removed in order to remove the brass plug. To remove this
plug from outside the engine, carefully and gently drill a 7/64" pilot
hole through the plug, then use a #6
self-tapping drywall screw (a small
ordinary self-tapping screw may not work as well) with
small Vise-Grips or a small
crowbar or
pry bar hooked to the screw to pull the plug out of the
hole. Because without drilling the hole first, the self-tapping drywall screw
by itself may not be able to bore a hole through the plug without pushing
it deeper into the pushrod hole. And do not force the drill bit into the
plug or it could get pushed inside the crankcase! Use a new drill bit if
necessary. When the plug is removed, a 3/16" drill bit or hand reamer may
need to be used to clean out any debris/rust from the pushrod hole. After
the points is properly installed, and with the piston positioned at TDC on
the compression stroke, set the point gap at .020", or better yet,
set the ignition timing at 20º
BTDC, and definitely use a copper core/non-resistor spark plug of the
correct type gapped at .035".
Custom-Made Electronic Ignition Kits (below) for Converting to Flywheel-Trigger Ignition for Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321, K341, K361 that came with points/condenser ignition or Breakerless Ignition. Do away with the old fashioned points and condenser ignition, or defective and cost-prohibitive Breakerless Ignition components, and convert your engine to the reliability, dependability and durability of flywheel-trigger ignition! NOTE: Engine must have the large bearing plate with two mounting bosses to install the triggering device and 9" flywheel with 3/4" wide area with the projection (hump) or large bolt head, or install a small screw/bolt (so the sensor can detect it). Must also use an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; for ignition) and momentary push-button switch (to crank the engine) for ignition system below Ê. With this ignition setup, the ignition timing will be set at 20º BTDC, and reuse same type of spark plug, but set gap at .035" for a stronger spark.
 
IMPORTANT: Most failures of a battery-powered ignition coils and/or electronic ignition control modules are caused by either the use of suppression/carbon-core spark plug wire(s), resistor-type spark plug(s), or overcharging of the electrical system due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery. Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging system. Also, any coil will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system. Also, the coil could burn up if the charging system continually overcharge due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or a defective [automotive] battery. List of Parts in Kit Includes:
Installation Instructions: Click/tap here to print out the wiring diagram and installation/wiring connection instructions.
Option #2 - Complete Kit to Convert from [a failed] OEM Kohler Breakerless Ignition OR a Cast Iron Block Briggs & Stratton Engine Magneto Ignition System with Points and Condenser to the More Reliable Battery-Powered Points and Condenser Ignition System with a Full Size Canister 12 Volt Ignition Coil. Designed for Kohler engine models K181, K241, K301, K321 that originally came with Breakerless Ignition. New parts include: 12 volt 3.0 ohm full size canister ignition coil w/mounting bracket, metal core conductor spark plug wire, medium capacity condenser/capacitor, ignition points, stainless steel points pushrod, points cover, points cover gasket, four 10-24 UNC Phillips head screws w/lock washers, Autolite 216 or Champion 844 (H10C) spark plug, and 12" cut-to-length #16 gauge (AWG) coil-to-points wire w/terminals and points cover/wire grommet. IMPORTANT - Due to length of spark plug wire, please indicate if original coil is mounted next to carburetor (10" length) or above starter gear (13" length). Set spark plug gap at .035" with this system. NOTE - Being this ignition system requires 12 volts DC negative ground, the OEM key switch for Breakerless Ignition will not work with any battery-powered ignition systems. The switch used with Breakerless Ignition is actually a magneto ignition switch, which when the engine is shut-down, it grounds the self-energizing wire connected to the ignition. And battery ignition requires a switch that disconnects the coil from the power source (battery). So with this ignition system, you will need either an OFF-ON-START battery-powered ignition key switch, or an OFF-ON toggle switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition) and a momentary push button starter switch. Go here for choice of switches. IMPORTANT: Most failures of a battery-powered ignition coils and/or electronic ignition control modules are caused by either the use of suppression/carbon-core spark plug wire(s), resistor-type spark plug(s), or overcharging of the electrical system due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery. Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging system. Also, any coil will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system. Also, the coil could burn up if the charging system continually overcharge due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or a defective [automotive] battery.
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Click here to contact A-1 Miller's for FREE honest and accurate technical support and/or for ordering information and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website. [Top of Page]
3/16" Steel Plug to Replace Kohler Ignition Points
Pushrod. Use in Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161,
L161, L181, K181, K241,
K301, K321, K341, K361, K482, K532 and K582 when converting from magneto
to solid state ignition (listed above), Magnum solid state ignition, A-1
Miller's flywheel- or
crank-trigger electronic ignition (further
down in this website). Remove the points cover, ignition points and pushrod,
and install this plug in the pushrod hole (to prevent major oil leakage)
with a medium size hammer; fits very tight. No need to reinstall cover and
points. NOTE: The alternative to using this plug is to remove the ignition
points and points pushrod, and place the pushrod on a hard, flat surface,
and use a hammer and sharp flat cold chisel to lightly create knurled raised
marks midway on the pushrod. Then reinstall the knurled pushrod in the engine
block with the hammer. Or a
20 penny common nail cut off to 1/2" length and the end
ground to a bevel will serve the same purpose. The knurling will retain the
pushrod in the hole. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller.
Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate
them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.)
OEM Briggs & Stratton part
#'s 231143, 692882. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
[Return to previous paragraph, section
or website]
| A-1 Miller's Custom-Made
Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition Conversion Kits for Kohler opposed twin
cylinder engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design)
and KT19 Series II, except generator engines | [Top
of Page]
NOTE: If your engine is hard to start, looses power and dies when hot, and restarts when cooled, and repeats this over and over, then chances are, it needs a professional valve job performed and valve clearances reset to factory specs. Because installing electronic ignition will not fix a faulty valve problem. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in having a professional valve job performed on your KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20 cylinders/jugs or entire engine.
Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit below specifically made for KT17 first design and KT19 first design engines. Kit includes: New PerTronix Ignitor hall effect module/sensor fastened on adjustable/slotted aluminum mounting plate, two 10-24 UNC screws w/flat washers and lock washers, two aluminum spacers, target screw w/magnet and rubber washer (prevents the delicate magnet from possibly breaking when screw is tightened due to the uneven rough casting on the flywheel), two new Autolite 26 or Champion 25 (RV17YC) spark plugs, and points pushrod hole block-off plate (use with silicone sealant). Use this ignition system with the OEM off-ignition-start key switch and dual wire ignition coil. All replacement ignition parts are readily available. And if this custom electronic ignition is used in a garden tractor with a longitudinal engine, such as Cub Cadet, Economy Power King, Ford, hydrostatic-drive John Deere, MTD Farm King Model 960, Pennsylvania Panzer, Meteor, Copar, etc., it'll be easier to install if the engine is removed from the tractor. INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS for KT17 first design and KT19 first design engines. This option can also be used on the KT17 Series II and KT19 Series II engines, and perhaps Magnum engines with the KT-series flywheel installed. Video of this ignition system installed on a running engine coming soon. Scroll down to read the wiring connection instructions or click here to view and print out these installation instructions.
Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit below specifically made for KT17 Series II and KT19 Series II engines (and perhaps Magnum engines with the KT-series flywheel installed). Kit includes: New PerTronix Ignitor hall effect module/sensor fastened on aluminum mounting plate and square steel tubing, two 1/4" x 1-1/2" length grade 8 bolts w/lock washers, target screw w/magnet and rubber washer (prevents the delicate magnet from possibly breaking when screw is tightened due to the uneven rough casting on the flywheel), two Autolite 26 or Champion 25 (RV17YC) spark plugs, and points pushrod hole block-off plate (use with silicone sealant). Use this ignition system with the OEM off-ignition-start key switch and dual wire ignition coil. All replacement ignition parts are readily available. And if this custom electronic ignition is used in a garden tractor with a longitudinal engine, such as Cub Cadet, Economy Power King, Ford, hydrostatic-drive John Deere, MTD Farm King Model 960, Pennsylvania Panzer, Meteor, Copar, etc., it'll be easier to install if the engine is removed from the tractor.
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS of the module/sensor specifically for KT17 Series II and KT19 Series II engines, (and perhaps Magnum engines with the KT-series flywheel installed) - Video of this ignition system installed on a running engine coming soon.
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PerTronix Ignitor hall effect module/sensor with black and red wires. Choice of flange mount or rear mount. IMPORTANT: Must be used with a minimum 3.0 ohm coil or module will burn up, and a sturdy, fabricated bracket to prevent timing fluctuations. Click here to learn how to check the ohms resistance in a coil. IMPORTANT - Connect RED wire to coil positive [+] terminal and to ignition switch (battery positive [+] post), and connect BLACK wire to coil negative [–] terminal. This module/sensor is not diode-protected. It will not burn up instantly if the wires are connected in reverse. Also, this module/sensor will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system. Use with small steel screw w/ring magnet (listed below) fastened on rotating disc, edge of flywheel or backside of flywheel (in the case of an Onan twin cylinder engine) to trigger the spark. $75.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
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Click here to contact A-1 Miller's for FREE honest and accurate technical support and/or for ordering information and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website. [Top of Page]
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A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Replacement Electronic Ignition Kit for Tecumseh Cast Iron Block Engines | [Top of Page]
IMPORTANT: Most failures of a battery-powered ignition coils and/or electronic ignition control modules are caused by either the use of suppression/carbon-core spark plug wire(s), resistor-type spark plug(s), or overcharging of the electrical system due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery. Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging system. Also, any coil will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system. Also, the coil could burn up if the charging system continually overcharge due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or a defective [automotive] battery. Replacement Tecumseh Electronic Ignition Kit with PerTronix Ignitor. (Fires off the short pin in the flywheel; remove the long pin. It will not be needed and will interfere with proper operation of the ignition system.) This ignition system requires 12 volts DC negative ground. Includes: new PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor and new high quality, high energy compact epoxy-encapsulated 12 volt armature ignition coil w/integrated metal spark plug wire, both fastened to an aluminum mounting plate, new Autolite 295 or Champion J8C spark plug, new momentary push-button switch (to crank the engine; optional) and new OFF-ON toggle/flip switch/flip switch or [security] key switch (to power the ignition; optional). Installation Instructions for Replacement Tecumseh Electronic Ignition System listed above | Click/tap here to print out the installation and wiring instructions for this system.
I offer these custom-made electronic ignition kit options:
FYI - I've been to many car races, and truck and tractor pulls through the years, and I've noticed that when most drivers start their engine, they would crank it over first with a push-button switch, then flip the ignition toggle switch on, and the engine would start every time without hesitation. This is because the engine have a fixed and set in the fully advanced ignition timing position with no retard, and is (obviously) high compression. Starting the engine this way prevents it from kicking back, and it prevents damage to the aluminum starter motor housing. - Brian Miller FYI - I've been receiving several emails and phone calls from people who purchased another type of custom-made electronic ignition system from another source online for their Tecumseh cast iron block engines. If you're experiencing problems with this other type of ignition, you will need to complain to the person you purchased it from. Because being I'm not familiar with the design of another person's custom-made ignition system, the advice I may give you to get your engine running right may not be 100% accurate. It'll be like the mechanic of a reputable Chevrolet car dealer/repair shop trying to tell someone how to fix their poor performing Ford vehicle. By the way - I thoroughly researched and test every custom-made electronic ignition system that I offer in my websites on the test engines in my shop to insure that they work flawlessly, and I have not received any complaints from my customers so far. - Brian Miller (Posted 8/24/20) |
Click here to contact A-1 Miller's for FREE honest and accurate technical support and/or for ordering information and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website. [Top of Page]
Be
ahead of the pulling competition with 21st century technology using 100%
reliable digital electronic ignition!
Click here
to contact A-1 Miller's for FREE honest and accurate technical support and/or
for ordering information and payment options. Please contact A-1
Miller's
if you need a part or parts,
or service performed that's not listed or mentioned in this
website. [Top of Page]
FYI - I can install virtually any of my custom-made flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition systems on your older small gas engine and/or rewire your lawn & garden tractor, small engine equipment, small motorized vehicle or competition garden pulling tractor so all the electrical accessories will work and if everything else is in good condition with the engine (compression, carburetion, etc.), the engine should start quickly, idle well and rev up to its full potential every time. I have the knowledge, skills, all the tools and parts necessary to perform a professional job. I've rewired many of my customer's lawn & garden tractors, small engine equipment and competition garden pulling tractors with great results. If you're interested, click/tap here for my contact information and directions to A-1 Miller's shop. - Brian Miller
A new way to revolutionize the ignition system on virtually any small gas engine! Virtually trouble- and maintenance-free, and water-proof. These ignition modules/sensors is a small, lightweight, compact and completely self-contained electronic ignition system built with the latest state-of-the-art engineering with the use of microelectronics. Fits entirely on the engine block; no ignition box and additional wiring to clutter the engine compartment because the electronic ignition control module and pickup coil/sensor are contained in the same sealed casing. The DynaTek Dyna S module/sensor produce a stable and very strong spark with the use of microelectronics. They will allow the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly, rev up at open RPM with no hesitation or misfire and produce more power.
These maintenance-free crank-trigger electronic ignition setups have been thoroughly tested and proven very reliable for general lawn and work, and all classes of single and opposed twin cylinder competition pulling engines. One module/sensor is needed for an opposed twin cylinder engine, and two modules/sensors spaced precisely at 90º apart are required for V-twin engines. These are the same ignition systems used by professional pullers everywhere. Reliable at high RPM, the DynaTek Dyna S or PerTronix Ignitor modules provides unlimited RPM. They will allow the ignition system to operate at the speed of electricity (which can be anywhere from about 50% to 99% of the speed of light, depending upon the quality of the electronic components and wiring connections).
Spark occurs when the magnet embedded in an aluminum locking set screw collar (magnet ring), which is much like an automotive reluctor ring, that's fastened on the crankshaft's PTO end passes the module/sensor. These sensors/modules packs a lot of punch and allow the ignition system operate at 100% efficiency for a stronger spark. When wired correctly, it's normal for the flywheel- and crank-trigger ignition systems to make a spark when first powered up. And if it makes a spark as the sensor passes the metal target object, then the ignition system is working as it should.
NOTE: With all of my crank-trigger ignition systems (all listed below), when installed accordingly, the ignition timing is ALWAYS advanced. If it's set or installed retarded, it will NOT automatically advance as soon as the engine starts. If the timing is set retarded, the only way to advance it is by rotating an ignition plate or ignition distributor manually by hand, or automatically by a vacuum canister with intake manifold, or by centrifugal force with flyweights.
The DynaTek Dyna S module/sensor operates with 12-1/2 to 15 volts DC negative ground, and requires an ignition coil with a minimum 3.0 ohm resistor. Using a coil with less than 3.0 ohm of primary resistance for a long period of time will cause the module to overheat and the engine may misfire until it cools down, or the module/sensor might fail prematurely. A metal conductor spark plug wire and copper core/non-resistor spark plug should be used. If the voltage drops below the minimum requirement for either module/sensor, the engine may idle well, but not rev up, or the engine may run erratic. Either module/sensor can be used with a standard-output/stock or high-output/performance ignition coil, as long as it has a 3.0 ohm internal primary resistor, or connected to a ballast resistor, resulting in 3.0 ohm of resistance.
DynaTek Dyna S Maintenance-Free Crank-Trigger Electronic Ignition Installation Instructions -
A-1 Miller's universal flat aluminum mounting plate with the
DynaTek Dyna S ignition module/sensor kits can be adapted for use on various
makes and models of one or two cylinder (twin opposing cylinders) small engines.
Being there are so many different bolt patterns on the PTO end of Kohler
and other makes and models of small engines, these are not a simple "one
kit fits all" bolt-on ignition setup. Therefore, customer will need to locate
and drill holes in the mounting plate in alignment with the bolt holes on
the PTO end of the engine block. If there are no bolt hole(s) on the PTO
end of the block, they will need to be drilled and tapped.
Click/tap here to learn
how to professionally cut new threads. For strength and durability, a
minimum of 1/4" bolts (thread size) should be used to fasten mounting plate
to PTO end of engine block. Locate and drill (machine) slotted adjustment
holes in the mounting plate. And then drill and cut 4-40 NC threads in the
mounting plate to fasten the module/sensor. Air gap/clearance between the
module/sensor and locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet is .010"-.050".
Module/sensor may not operate or engine may misfire if gap is wider than
.060". NOTE: Do not allow module/sensor to make
contact with locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet while engine is
running! Click
HERE for custom-made electronic ignition
kits that operate off the flywheel end of the engine. These can be used for
ordinary lawn & garden engines or stock competition pulling
engines.
DynaTek Dyna S Crank Trigger Ignition Kit and Systems for a Single Cylinder Engine listed below. These ignition systems works flawlessly and may outlast the life of the engine. These ignition systems operate off the PTO end of the crankshaft and is mainly for competition pulling engines that have nothing on the PTO end of the crankshaft. NOTE: Slotted mounting holes will be machined in the mounting plate. If the bolt holes in the PTO end of the block don't match the ones in the plate or if bolt holes are not present, then new bolt holes will need to be drilled and tapped in the engine block. Click/tap here to learn how to professionally cut new threads. Can be used on Kohler 10-16hp single or opposed twin cylinder horizontal shaft engines. Set the clearance between the module and locking collar at .010"-.050". IMPORTANT - Gently rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand to check and see that the module does not make contact with the locking collar. Do not allow the module make contact with the locking collar while the engine is running! IMPORTANT - The module will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system.
Self-Contained Crank Trigger
Ignition System with the DynaTek Dyna S Module/Sensor Connected to an
Incorporated High Energy Ignition Coil, Both Fastened on an Aluminum Mounting
Plate, Triggered by an Embedded Magnet in a Locking Set Screw Collar.
Requires 12 volts DC negative ground. Thoroughly tested and proven to
be very reliable. Self-contained and very compact. The high energy armature
ignition coil is fastened above the DynaTek Dyna S module/sensor on the same
aluminum ignition plate. This ignition system operates off the PTO end of
the engine and is mainly for competition pulling engines that have nothing
on the PTO end of the crankshaft. This ignition system "cleans up" the engine
compartment. No remotely-mounted coil or extra wiring needed. Can be mounted
above or on right side of crankshaft. This high performance ignition system
have been thoroughly tested under extreme conditions, and produces a stable
and very strong spark with the use of
microelectronics, even with the compact epoxy-encapsulated
armature ignition coil, allowing the engine to start quickly, idle smoothly
and rev up at open RPM with no hesitation or misfire to produce more power.
The DynaTek Dyna S module/sensor is triggered by a small magnet embedded
in an aluminum locking set screw collar (magnet ring) that's fastened on
the crankshaft. All replacement ignition parts are readily available. Mounting
plate available with 3-1/2" or 4" bolt hole spacing. But customer may have
to drill and tap the block to mount the crank-trigger or modify the bracket
if necessary. Click/tap
here to learn how to professionally cut new threads. Simple wiring
connections: Connect the RED wire to
the ignition switch (which connects to the battery positive (+) post), and
connect the BLACK wire to the self-grounding killswitch. The ignition
system is grounded to the negative (–) battery post through the engine.
IMPORTANT - Connect
RED wire to coil positive [+] terminal
and to ignition switch (battery positive [+] post), and connect BLACK
wire to coil negative [–] terminal. This module/sensor is not
diode-protected. It will not burn up instantly if the wires are connected
in reverse. Also, this module/sensor will burn up
if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine
not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security
reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master
disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip
switch to power the ignition system. Set the air gap/clearance
between sensor and magnet in locking set screw collar at .010"-.050", and
set spark plug gap at .035". When the ignition unit is installed and wire(s)
correctly connected, turn the ignition switch on to supply power to the coil,
and rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand so the magnet passes the module
and observe for a strong, "snappy"
blue spark at the spark plug's tip.
IMPORTANT: Use a new copper core/non-resistor AC Delco, Autolite or Champion
spark plug of the correct type gapped at .025" for longer coil life. Use
of a resistor type or NGK
spark plug will void warranty. Please specify diameter of crankshaft
PTO end for locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet. Most common crankshaft
PTO end diameters are 1" and 1-1/8", but 3/4", 1-1/4", 1-3/8", 1-7/16" and
1-1/2" are rare. Most billet steel crankshafts have a 1-1/2" diameter PTO
end (raised shoulder). Please specify diameter of crankshaft PTO end for
locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet. Video of this ignition
system installed on a running engine coming soon. A proven, ingenious
and innovative concept by Brian Miller because nobody else advertise this
type of custom-made ignition system. Please accept no advertised copycat
products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity
and intelligence.)
$200.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling. Please
let me know if you're interested in purchasing this
kit and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options.
Click here to contact A-1 Miller's for FREE honest and accurate technical support and/or for ordering information and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website. [Top of Page]
Self-Contained Crank Trigger Electronic Ignition System with an Incorporated High Energy Ignition Coil Fastened on an Angled Aluminum Mounting Plate, and Locking Set Screw Collar w/Embedded Magnet for Kohler Engine Models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, M18 and M20 Competition Pulling Engines Only -
Self-Contained Crank Trigger
Electronic Ignition System with an Incorporated High Energy Ignition Coil
Fastened on an Angled Aluminum Mounting Plate, and Locking Set Screw Collar
w/Embedded Magnet for Kohler Engine Models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series
II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, M18 and M20 Competition Pulling
Engines Only. Requires 12 volts DC negative ground. Being the aftermarket
and OEM Magnum M18 and M20 solid state electronic armature ignition coils
will hold up to around 3,600 RPM, when used at higher RPM, the secondary
windings within the coil tend to overheat, causing the coil to eventually
fail. But this custom-made ignition system allows the engine to rev to its
maximum without failing. It works flawlessly and may outlast the life of
the engine. It operates off the PTO end of the engine and is mainly for
competition pulling engines that have nothing on the PTO end of the crankshaft.
The high energy dual-spark plug wire compact armature ignition coil is fastened
above the DynaTek Dyna S module on a sturdy aluminum mounting plate; cleans
up the engine compartment. IMPORTANT: When ordering,
please indicate the bolt hole spacing (measurement) for mounting the angle
bracket to the rear closure plate on the PTO end of the engine. Or customer
can machine their own adjustable slotted mounting holes. This
high performance ignition system have been thoroughly tested under extreme
conditions, and produces a stable and very strong spark with the use of
microelectronics, even with the compact armature ignition
coil, allowing the engine to start quickly, idle smoothly and rev up at open
speed. The DynaTek Dyna S module/sensor is triggered by a small magnet embedded
in an aluminum locking set screw collar (magnet ring) that's fastened on
the crankshaft. Use this setup for durability when the solid state armature
ignition coil keeps failing for no apparent reason. All replacement ignition
parts are readily available. Simple one wire hook-up;
RED wire on module/sensor connects to
12 volt ignition switch (which connects to the positive (+) battery post).
This ignition system is grounded through the engine. The DynaTek Dyna S module
is diode protected; it will not burn up if the wires are connected in reverse.
Kit includes: DynaTek Dyna S module/sensor and high energy dual wire
epoxy-encapsulated armature ignition coil with two molded-in metal core conductor
coil-to-spark plug wires and 90º spark plug terminals/boots fastened
on aluminum mounting plate, and small magnet embedded in an aluminum locking
set screw collar (magnet ring), and new battery ignition OFF-IGNITION-START
key switch (do not reuse OEM Magnum solid state ignition key switch with
this system) or momentary push button starter switch (to crank the engine),
OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes;
to power the ignition) and fully insulated male and female slip-on spade
crimp-type wire connectors (to easily connect/disconnect the ignition system
to/from the power source). Remove the OEM solid state armature ignition coil
and aluminum bracket. They will serve no purpose with this kit. Use with
metal core spark plugs gapped at .030" each. When the ignition unit is installed
and wire(s) correctly connected, turn the ignition switch on to supply power
to the coil, and rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand so the magnet
passes the module and observe for a strong, "snappy"
blue spark at the spark plug's tip(s).
IMPORTANT: Use a new copper core/non-resistor AC Delco, Autolite or Champion
spark plug of the correct type gapped at .025" for longer coil life. Use
of a resistor type or NGK
spark plug will void warranty. Coil can withstand high engine vibrations.
Please specify diameter of crankshaft PTO end for the
locking set screw collar when ordering.
Click here to learn how to set the ignition
timing on a KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19
Series II, M18 or M20 engine with crank trigger ignition. Video of
this ignition system installed on a running engine coming soon. A
proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller because nobody else
advertise this type of custom-made ignition system. Please accept no advertised
copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my
ingenuity and intelligence.)
Click here to contact A-1 Miller's for FREE honest and accurate technical support and/or for ordering information and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website. [Top of Page]
Replacement DynaTek Dyna S
Module/Sensor. IMPORTANT: Use with minimum 3.0 ohm coil to prevent burning
up module. Click
here to learn how to check the ohms resistance in a coil. Simple wiring
instructions: Connect BLACK wire to negative (–) terminal on
coil and connect RED wire to positive
[+] terminal on coil and to ignition switch (which connects to the positive
(+) battery post).
IMPORTANT
- The module will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than
a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly
happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a
master disconnect switch with a removable
key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition
system. Use with aluminum locking set screw collar w/embedded
magnet (magnet ring; listed below) on PTO end of crankshaft to trigger the
spark. $70.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Please
let me know if you're interested in purchasing this
part and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options.
Aluminum Locking Set Screw Collar
w/Embedded Trigger Magnet (Magnet Ring). Use with DynaTek Dyna S or hall
effect proximity sensors only. When ordering, please specify diameter of
crankshaft PTO end or shaft it's to be mounted on. Most common Kohler crankshaft
PTO end diameters are 1", 1-1/8", but 3/4", 1-1/4", 1-3/8", 1-7/16" and 1-1/2"
are rare. Most billet steel crankshafts have a 1-1/2" diameter PTO end (raised
shoulder). Other sizes available. $30.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. Please let me know if you're interested
in purchasing this part and I'll give you the total amount with shipping
and payment options. [Return to previous
section]
Click here to contact A-1 Miller's for FREE honest and accurate technical support and/or for ordering information and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website. [Top of Page] [Return to previous paragraph, section or website]
How to Check for Spark and Set the Timing for the DynaTek Dyna S (or PerTronix Ignitor) module/sensors - After either setup is installed on the engine and power is supplied, simply rotate the locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet (loose) on the crankshaft back and forth by hand. Each time the embedded detector/trigger magnet passes the module/sensor, spark should occur. NOTE: Do not use a battery charger alone for power to perform this test. Battery chargers constantly switch between high and low voltage at 60 cycles per second, and the module sees this as the ignition being switched on and off, resulting in a continuous array of sparks.
A simple and precise way to set the ignition timing STATICALLY (engine not running) for either module/sensor -
How to accurately set the ignition timing STATICALLY for the DynaTek Dyna S, PerTronix Ignitor and Inductive 3-Wire Proximity module/sensor - (This is also how to test if the module/sensors or the ignition system is functioning or not.)
How to precisely set the ignition timing DYNAMICALLY (engine running) using an automotive inductive timing light for either module/sensor. (This is the most accurate way to set the timing.) NOTE: Timing can be checked, but not set while the engine is running! Do not allow module/sensor to make contact with the locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet while engine is running! -
Magnetic pickup coils and round-shaped proximity sensors are
very sensitive to mechanical damage (and electrical damage if connected wrong).
For magnetic pickup coils, set the air
gap/clearance from the detectable target (screw, pin or small raised area
on the rotating disc) at .010"-.060" with a brass, plastic, business card,
poster board, stainless steel (anything non-magnetic) feeler gauge. And being
3-wire inductive proximity sensors have a farther
detection range, set the air gap/clearance at .010"-.188". If the gap is
wider than .188" (3/16") with either sensor, the ignition system may not
produce a spark or the engine could misfire at higher RPM. To prevent the
possibility of an out of time spark, the detectable target needs to be a
minimum of 3/16" higher than or above the circumference surface of a steel
or cast iron rotating disc or flywheel. Direct metal contact with either
sensor could damage them. When in doubt if a sensor is mechanically
damaged, look at the end of it with the strong magnifying glass to see any
damage. If it is damaged, it needs to be replaced. A magnetic pickup
coil can be tested with a digital multimeter set on 200m DC, with the negative
lead of the meter on the white wire of the pickup coil and positive lead
on the black wire, then pass a small steel screw or bolt over the end of
the magnetic pickup coil. If the meter shows a reading, the pickup coil is
in good condition.
Magnetic Pickup Coils
for A-1 Miller's flywheel- or
crank-trigger electronic ignition. All
magnetic pickup coils are Normally Open. Either can be used with the
high-output/performance GM 4-pin HEI module w/1.0 ohm coil, or with the Chrysler
or Ford electronic ignition control module/units. Self-generating power.
Detects head of small ferrous metal (steel) screw or bolt fastened to rotating
disc or flywheel to generate power in magnetic pickup coil. Install screw
head extended minimum 3/16" higher than or above the surface of the [cast
iron or steel] flywheel to prevent an out of time spark occurrence by the
flywheel itself. Wide operating temperature range. epoxy-encapsulated,
mechanically rugged. Impervious to dirt, oil and water. No maintenance required.
Durable metal shielded threads with two
jam nuts.
Please specify size when ordering. Can be used with a steel bracket without
interference of magnetism. By the way - The magnetic pickup coils below work
exactly the same. There is absolutely no difference in performance.
Set the air gap/clearance from the detectable target (screw, pin or small
raised area on the rotating disc) at .010"-.020" with a brass, plastic, business
card, poster board or anything non-magnetic feeler gauge.
Click/tap here for wiring diagrams.
Round 3-Wire Inductive Proximity
Sensors listed below for crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger ignition
systems or other types of electronic systems. Recommended for use with the
GM HEI, Chrysler or Ford electronic ignition control module/units. Wide operating
temperature range. epoxy-encapsulated, mechanically rugged. Impervious to
dirt, oil and water. No maintenance required. Sensors are capable of powering
crank-trigger or flywheel-trigger ignition and digital tachometer at the
same time. Durable metal shielded threads with two stainless steel thin
jam nuts
and three, 10 foot long wire leads. Dimensions of each item below: 15/32"
(12mm) diameter x 1-3/8" thread length. Some proximity sensors have an LED
(Light Emitting Diode) on the rear of unit. If the proximity sensor is wired
incorrectly, the LED will stay on and go off when activated.
PNP = Positive/Neutral/Positive. NPN = Neutral/Positive/Neutral.
Positive is when connection is made. Neutral is when connection is not made.
NOTE: Set air gap/clearance at .010" - .188". Direct metal contact
with either sensor will damage them. And if the gap is wider than specified,
the engine could misfire at higher RPM. To prevent the possibility of an
out of time spark, the detectable target needs to be a minimum of 3/16" higher
than or above the circumference surface of a steel or cast iron rotating
disc or flywheel.
Click/tap
here for wiring diagrams. [Return
to previous section]
Detectable Steel Target Screw
w/Magnet and Protective Rubber Washer for Small Engines with A-1 Miller's
Custom Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition System with the PerTronix Ignitor
Hall Effect Module/Sensor. Head of screw becomes magnetized. Fasten on
rotating disc, edge of flywheel or backside of flywheel (in the case of an
Onan twin cylinder engine) when using a 3-wire hall effect proximity sensor
or PerTronix Ignitor hall effect module/sensor to trigger the spark. 8-32
UNC x 1/2" length hardened steel Phillips head screw.
Click/tap here to learn
how to professionally cut new threads. Weighs about 1/10 oz. / 2 grams.
NOTE: The rubber washer prevents the high strength but delicate and brittle
magnet from possibly breaking when the screw is tightened to the uneven or
rough casting on the flywheel. IMPORTANT: To prevent from possibly loosening,
secure screw in flywheel or rotating disc with
high strength liquid threadlocker
(Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent). Tighten
screw just when the rubber begin to bulge, and allow the Loctite to dry and
harden overnight. The PerTronix Ignitor hall effect module/sensor is activated
by the South pole of the magnet, so do not remove the magnet from the screw!
A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller because nobody
else advertise this type of product. Please accept no advertised copycat
products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity
and intelligence.)
Detectable Steel Target Screw
w/Magnet and Protective Rubber Washer for Tecumseh engine models VH80, VH100,
HH80, HH100, HH120, OH120, OH140, OH150, OH160 and OH180 with a gear
starter that have a failed OEM Solid State Ignition Module or Other Make
and Model of Small Engine with A-1 Miller's Custom Flywheel-Trigger Electronic
Ignition System with the DynaTek Dyna S or PerTronix Ignitor Hall Effect
Module/Sensor. Head of screw becomes magnetized. To use this part on
a Tecumseh engine, remove both firing pins from the flywheel, and install
this part in place of the short pin (20º BTDC position). Fasten
on rotating disc, edge of flywheel or backside of flywheel (in the case of
an Onan twin cylinder engine) when using a 3-wire hall effect proximity sensor
or PerTronix Ignitor hall effect module/sensor to trigger the spark. 12-24
UNC x 3/4" length hardened steel Phillips head screw.
Click/tap here to learn
how to professionally cut new threads. Weighs about 1/10 oz. / 2 grams.
NOTE: The rubber washer prevents the high strength but delicate and brittle
magnet from possibly breaking when the screw is tightened to the uneven or
rough casting on the flywheel. IMPORTANT: To prevent from possibly loosening,
secure screw in flywheel or rotating disc with
high strength liquid threadlocker
(Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent). Tighten
screw just when the rubber begin to bulge, and allow the Loctite to dry and
harden overnight. The PerTronix Ignitor hall effect module/sensor is activated
by the South pole of the magnet, so do not remove the magnet from the screw!
A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller because nobody
else advertise this type of product. Please accept no advertised copycat
products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity
and intelligence.)
High Quality GM 4-Pin HEI Ignition Control Module w/packet
of
thermal paste (to dissipate normal operating heat).
Use with a high-output hall effect or inductive proximity sensor. Virtually
any ignition coil regardless of the internal primary resistor can be used.
Best to be used with a metal core conductor coil-to-spark plug wire and copper
core/non-resistor spark plug gapped at .030" or .035" (depending on size
of coil) for best performance. After thorough research, this particular HEI
module that I offer is the only one that will work correctly with the high-output
cube-shaped proximity sensor to maintain the ignition timing and produce
an extremely strong spark, allowing the
engine to start quickly, idle smoothly and rev up at open governed RPM. When
mounting the HEI module, always fasten it with thermal paste on a clean,
flat aluminum plate with plenty of cool, circulating air to dissipate the
heat and cool the unit while in operation. All GM 4-pin HEI modules that
I offer for sale have been tested personally by Brian Miller on my Kohler
test engine to insure proper operation. Requires one (1) 3/16"/.187"/2.8mm
and three (3) #250
slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors. Actual
weight of each module: 1.1 oz. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 278903.
$25.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Please let
me know if you're interested in purchasing this item and I'll give you
the total amount with shipping and payment options.
High Quality High-Output/Performance GM 4-Pin HEI Ignition
Control Module w/packet of
thermal paste (to dissipate normal operating heat).
This particular module connected to a magnetic pickup coil (below
Ê) works excellent with a stock ignition
coil that have a maximum 1.0 ohm internal primary resistor, metal core conductor
coil-to-spark plug wire and copper core/non-resistor spark plug gapped at
.025, which produce a strong spark, allowing
the engine to rev up at open speed. When mounting the HEI module, fasten
it with thermal paste on a clean, flat aluminum plate with plenty of cool,
circulating air to dissipate the heat and cool the unit while in operation.
Requires one (1) 3/16"/.187"/2.8mm and three (3) #250
slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors. Actual
weight of each module: 1.1 oz. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 278903.
$25.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (Limited supply.)
Please let me know if you're interested in purchasing
this item and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options.
3/8" Magnetic Pickup Coil w/Adapter
Bracket and Mounting Screws to Convert from Breakerless Ignition or Points
and Condenser Ignition, and Upgrade to Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition.
Fits Kohler K-series K241, K301, K321, K341 and K361 engines with the 9"
ring gear flywheel w/projection (hump) or large bolt head on flywheel or
3/4" wide area (to install trigger screw with a minimum 1/4" length aluminum
spacer) and large bearing plate with the two bosses for mounting this item,
as shown in the photo above. Installs in place of Breakerless Ignition Trigger
Module. If threads are not already present, new 10-24 UNC threads will need
to be drilled and tapped in the two raised bosses in the bearing plate to
mount the bracket for the sensor's bracket.
Click/tap here to learn
how to professionally cut new threads. For a strong spark, use with a
1.0 Ohm (6 volt) ignition coil, metal core spark plug wire and GM HEI high
performance module (listed above), or Ford or Chrysler module (listed below).
Set spark plug gap at .025" for a stronger spark. NOTE: Set air
gap/clearance from projection (hump) or large bolt head on flywheel at
.010"-.060" with a brass, plastic, business card, poster board or anything
non-magnetic feeler gauge. Ignition timing will be fixed at 20º
BTDC.
Click/tap here
for wiring diagrams. A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by
Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind.
(But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.)
$90.00 each, plus shipping
& handling. Please let me know if you're interested
in purchasing this item and I'll give you the total amount with shipping
and payment options.
Now the ordinary/stock GM 4-pin HEI electronic ignition control
module lives up to its name, High Energy Ignition! When used on a small engine,
in order for an ordinary/stock GM 4-pin HEI module allow the engine rev up
at open RPM, it must be used with the high output cube-shaped 3-wire inductive
proximity sensor, and can be used with virtually any ignition coil,
regardless of the ohm resistance or voltage output. A metal core conductor
coil-to-spark plug wire and copper core/non-resistor spark plug should be
used to guarantee a stronger spark. Use an ohm meter to test for the resistance
in a spark plug wire. Set spark plug gap at .035". Sensor is capable of powering
the GM 4-pin HEI crank-trigger ignition control module and a digital
tachometer at the same time. This concept
revolutionizes the use of this small, compact and versatile module! This
is a thoroughly tested, researched and proven reliable ignition system invented
by Brian Miller for ordinary lawn and garden engines and competition pulling
engines. And when mounting the HEI module, always fasten it with
thermal paste (to dissipate normal operating
heat) on a clean, flat aluminum plate with plenty of cool, circulating air
to dissipate the heat while in operation.
Click/tap here for wiring diagrams.
IMPORTANT - The wire that comes from the stator
under the flywheel for Kohler Trigger Module or Tecumseh Solid State Electronic
Ignition Module generates about 250 volts (serious) while the engine is running
at full governed speed. Do not touch this wire (terminal) with one bare hand
and the engine itself with your other hand while the engine is running! It
is not needed for any of A-1 Miller's crank-trigger ignition systems. So
snip off this wire or tape up the terminal to prevent a short circuit or
electrocution. [Return
to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]
New High Quality Chrysler / Dodge / Plymouth (MOPAR) Electronic
Ignition Control Module/Unit for a custom crank- or flywheel-trigger electronic
ignition to use with virtually any small gas engine, automotive, and virtually
any gas engine. Requires 12 volts DC negative ground and a minimum 1.2
ohm ballast resistor to prevent burning up this module.
Click/tap here to learn how to check the Ohm
resistance in a ballast resistor. This module can be used with the magnetic
pickup coil or proximity sensor and virtually any ignition coil, regardless
of the ohm resistance or voltage output, for an extremely strong spark (even
with a stock coil), which will allow the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly,
rev up at open RPM with no hesitation or misfire and produce more power.
A metal core conductor spark plug wire and copper core/non-resistor spark
plug should be used with virtually any ignition system to guarantee a strong
spark and from burning up the coil. Click/tap
here to learn how to check the Ohm resistance in a spark plug wire. Actual
weight of module: 14 oz. Click/tap here for
wiring diagrams. $20.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
New 1.6 Ohm Ballast Resistor for use with Chrysler module (listed above) to prevent burning up unit. $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
New High Quality Ford / Mercury
/ Lincoln Electronic Ignition Control Module/Unit for a custom crank- or
flywheel-trigger electronic ignition to use with virtually any small gas
engine, automotive, and virtually any gas engine. Requires 12 volts DC negative
ground and no ballast resistor. This module can be used with the magnetic
pickup coil or proximity sensor and virtually any ignition coil, regardless
of the ohm resistance or voltage output for an extremely strong spark, and
will allow the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly, rev up at open RPM
with no hesitation or misfire and produce more power. A metal core conductor
spark plug wire and copper core/non-resistor spark plug should be used with
virtually any ignition system to guarantee a strong spark and from burning
up the coil. Click/tap here to learn how to
check the Ohm resistance in a spark plug wire. Actual weight of module:
1 lb. 7 oz. Click/tap here for wiring
diagrams.
High
Quality Inductive Wireless Handheld Small Engine Tachometer. A tachometer
is required in setting the correct RPM (normally 3,200 or 3,600 maximum for
small engines) of an engine to prevent over-revving and possible damage to
the engine or dangerous flywheel explosion. For gas/spark ignite engines
only. Works with magneto and battery-powered ignition systems. Very accurate.
This handheld analog tachometer works great for checking/setting the RPM
on various small engines in the shop, and/or for checking/setting the RPM
[tech] on stock governed competition pulling engines. Hold sensor (antenna)
close to coil-to-spark plug wire for reading. Reads up to 5,000 RPM on the
low scale, and 15,000 RPM on the high scale. Operates with a self-contained
replaceable 9 volt battery. Has built-in battery voltage check. $85.00
each, plus shipping & handling. Please let me know
if you're interested in purchasing this item and I'll give you the total
amount with shipping and payment options.
Inductive Small Engine
Tachometer/Hour Meter with Replaceable Battery. A tachometer is required
for monitoring and/or setting the maximum speed of a small engine, which
is normally 3,200 or 3,600 RPM, to prevent over-revving and possible damage
to the engine or dangerous flywheel explosion. Very accurate. Can be hand-held
to temporarily set engine RPM or can be surface-mounted and secured with
two screws to monitor engine RPM at all times. Large 3/8 inch LCD display.
Works with all spark ignition engines by selecting engine type by programming
S1 and S2 buttons. Works with magneto and battery-powered ignition systems.
If tachometer does not turn on automatically as soon as engine starts,
press and hold the two buttons at the same time. Instructions included.
Reads up to 99,999 RPM. Hour meter reads up to 9999:59 hours/minutes.
Programmable maintenance hour setting with service icon, a service reminder
when to change oil or other maintenance. Can be manually reset to Zero hours.
Easy installation: Single wire wraps around spark plug wire and secured with
two supplied nylon zip-ties. No wire terminal connections required. Weatherproof
construction. Requires CR2450 battery. Dimensions: 2" wide x 1-3/4" depth
x 3/4" height. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Please
let me know if you're interested in purchasing this
item and I'll give you the total amount with shipping and payment options.
High Quality Digital
Tachometer/Proximity Sensor Kits. A tachometer is required in setting
the correct engine RPM (normally 3,200 or 3,600 maximum, depending on type
of carburetor) to prevent from over-revving and possible internal damage
or dangerous flywheel explosion. Choice of a
RED or
BLUE numeric display. Will work with
most small engines or multi-cylinder automotive engines, gas or diesel. The
great thing about this type of tachometer is that it needs no setup or
programming. It displays accurate RPM as soon as the engine cranks over to
start. Displays up to 9,999 RPM. Very accurate. Tachometer returns to zero
[0000] when engine is shut down. Can be used for lawn & garden equipment
or competition pulling engines. Designed to be permanently mounted to monitor
engine RPM at all times. Tachometer can be in-dash or panel-mounted. This
precision digital tachometer operates with external power and on the same
principle as my
flywheel- or
crank-trigger ignition systems with a proximity sensor to detect the
target, which can be a small ferrous steel screw or pin, or magnet in a rotating
disc on the crankshaft or on/in flywheel. Operates totally independent of
the ignition system, or can be used with crank trigger ignition with the
same proximity sensor. Sensor is capable of powering this digital tachometer
and crank-trigger ignition control module at the same time, with the exception
of using the Dynatek Dyna S or PerTronix Ignitor modules. This tachometer
must be wired separately or wiring can be incorporated with my crank-trigger
ignition system that use a proximity sensor. A sturdy steel or aluminum bracket
will need to be fabricated by customer to mount the sensor in close proximity
of the detector/trigger target. Set air gap/clearance at .010"-.188". Tachometer
works with 8-24 volts DC, proximity sensor works with 6-36 volts DC. Dimensions
for mounting hole for tachometer: 3" wide x 1-17/32" wide. Tachometer measures
1" in depth. Dimensions of proximity sensor: 15/32" diameter x 1-3/8" thread
length. Wiring Instructions: #1 wire on tachometer connects to brown wire
on proximity sensor and ignition switch (12 volt power), #2 wire on tachometer
connects to blue wire on proximity sensor and engine/chassis ground (which
connects to the negative (–) battery post), and #5 wire on tachometer
connects to black wire on (either) proximity sensor. Wires #3 and #4 connects
to nothing. Wiring is the same for the hall effect and inductive proximity
sensors. Some proximity sensors have an LED (Light Emitting Diode) on the
rear of unit. If the proximity sensor is wired incorrectly, the LED will
illuminate within the target.
Click/tap here for YouTube videos to see how well this tachometer
works. Please let me know if you're interested
in purchasing either of the below and I'll give you the total amount with
shipping and payment options.
Aluminum Locking Set Screw Collar
w/Embedded Trigger Magnet (Magnet Ring). Use with DynaTek Dyna S or hall
effect proximity sensors only. $30.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Click
Here for Detailed Illustrated Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back
and Self-Propelled Garden Tractor Pulling Sled (Available
Soon)
To place an order and/or for FREE professional and honest
technical customer service assistance and support, please contact: A-1
Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO
(Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | 
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving
a voice message, please speak slowly and clearly). Call in your order or
email us a list parts you need. Payment Options.
Please call Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone, except holidays.
If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian on the
phone, please be patient and understanding because I stutter.)
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone, with an appointment on weekends, except holidays. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally purchase parts, or drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine parts, entire engine, transmission, transaxle, entire garden tractor, small motorized vehicle, etc. for repairing and/or rebuilding. Please call, text or email me before coming so I'll be at my shop waiting for your arrival. When you visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with the owner for the best customer service. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. "The road to a [trusted] friend's house (or shop) is never long." Don't sacrifice quality workmanship for distance. [Return To Previous Paragraph, Section or Website]
By the way - As business is booming, we're going to relocate our business later this year at 12091 N. Rt. B, Hallsville, MO 65255 with a bigger, better, fully insulated, heated and air-conditioned building/shop (shouse) so we can provide many more high quality parts and professional services, and hire more help to have our customer's parts orders fulfilled sooner, parts repairs and engine rebuilds performed promptly without delay. We will also offer custom welding fabrication jobs and other custom services. We will also provide pick up and delivery service and perform professional repairs for various small engines and lawn & garden equipment! Photos during construction of our new building/shop are posted here!
Payment Options, and We Ship to Canada and
Worldwide 
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent
by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged
item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service
Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal
Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S.
territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground
or equivalent services. We try to keep our shipping cost to customers within
reason. Therefore, we don't ship our products in a fancy-looking package
with our company name and/or logo on it because most customers will just
toss it in the trash after they remove the contents. And being there is no
USPS tracking number outside the US, all I can do is make sure I write your
address correctly on the customs form and on your package.
My websites are not set up to process orders and accept payments. Therefore, for payment options, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total amount for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge), Western Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram Money Transfers. If paying with a credit/debit card, please call me at either number above. To make a payment to me through PayPal, please click this link: https://www.paypal.me/PullingTractor. Please use the "Friends and Family" option, or add 3% to the total amount to cover PayPal's processing surcharge. Or to make a payment to me (pullingtractor@aol.com) in the US through the Venmo. Or use Cash App or Zelle to make a payment to me (pullingtractor@aol.com). And be sure to mention in PayPal, Venmo or Cash App a description of what the payment is for with your full name, postal address, phone number and email address. If sending a money order or cashier's check, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete mailing address, phone number, email address and a description of what the payment is for. I'll make a note of your order when I have all your information, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send everything on your list to you as soon as I have the parts in stock after I receive your payment.
à Return to Main Pulling Tips Page | Return To Previous Website | Various Vendors Related to Tractor Pulling | Top of Page
Copyright © 1996-Present. This website created, designed and maintained by Brian Miller.
Phillips and Socket (Allen) Head Screws with split lock
washers to mount ignition points and points cover on Kohler engines.
Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181,
High Quality Adjustable Chevy
(GM) Ignition Points with Stiff Spring for Quick Reaction at open RPM.
Use on Kohler K-series K241, K301, K321, K341, K361 competition pulling engines.
IMPORTANT: Sometimes oxidation will form on new points contacts from sitting
in storage, even when wrapped in plastic. This happens A LOT with small engine
and automotive ignition points. Therefore, while the points are closed under
pressure, use a clean
Stainless Steel. A-1 Miller's
high quality aftermarket part. Replaces aluminum Kohler part # 41 411 01-S.
$10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Stainless Steel. A-1 Miller's
high quality aftermarket part. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 46 411
01-S. $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Thin-Wall Brass Sleeve Bushing.
Use this to repair worn 3/16" points pushrod hole in governor assembly for
Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582. To install, the points pushrod
hole will need to be precision-machined (enlarged) exactly to .218" with
a chucking reamer for a press-fit installation. Dimensions: 3/16" I.D. x
7/32" O.D. x 5/8" length. $4.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Flared-End Oversized Stainless
Steel Points Pushrod. Install this when the points pushrod hole is worn too
big for the thin-wall brass bushing (listed above) and if the points lobe
is worn or not in governor assembly for Kohler engine models K482, K532 and
K582. Use the Letter C chucking reamer to enlarge pushrod hole.
Dimensions: .241" x 1.550" length. $15.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. A proven, ingenious and innovative invention by Brian Miller.
Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate
them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.)
"Ready to Install"
Points-to-Ignition Coil Wire Kits. Replace OEM wire with frayed/cracked
insulation and/or broken connector(s) to prevent a short circuit and/or engine
misfire. Fits Kohler engines with battery-powered ignition, models K90/K91,
K141, K161/K160, K181, L161 and L181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341,
K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design) KT19 Series
II, K482, K532 and K582. Includes 16" or 22" length x #16 gauge (AWG) insulated
stranded copper wire, grommet and two installed crimp connectors.
Medium Capacity Ignition Condensers/Capacitors. Designed
for magneto coils or full-size 12 volt coils. Has twice the capacity of the
low capacity condenser listed above. Each fits certain Kohler engine models
K141, K160/K161, K181, 
Medium Capacity Ignition
Condensers/
High Capacity/Performance
Ignition
Condenser/
OEM Kohler condenser clamp w/9/32"
mounting hole. Allows the high-output/performance condenser (listed above)
be mounted next to the coil with one of the coil's mounting bolts. Otherwise,
it will need to be fastened next to the points. Irrelevant Kohler part number.
$2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Copper Core/Non-Resistor
Spark Plugs. Designed for Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181,
L161 and L181, M8, and cast iron block Tecumseh engine models VH80, VH100,
HH80, HH100, HH120, OH140, OH150, OH160 and OH180. Copper core spark plugs
provides a stronger spark that allow the ignition coil to operate cooler
and last longer. For best engine performance and longevity of the coil, set
gap at .025" with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition
system, .035" with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with
a high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 3/8" thread
reach, flat washer seat.
High Quality Copper Core/Non-Resistor
Spark Plugs. Designed for Kohler engine models K241, M10, K301, M12,
K330/K331, K321, M14, K341, M16, K361, K482, K532 and K582. Copper core spark
plugs provides a stronger spark that allow the ignition coil to operate cooler
and last longer. For best engine performance and longevity of the coil, set
gap at .025" with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition
system, .035" with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with
a high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 7/16" thread
reach for stock OEM cylinder heads, flat washer seat.
High Quality Copper
Core/Non-Resistor Spark Plugs for use in machined billet cylinder heads
for competition pulling only. Designed for Kohler engine models K241,
M10, K301, M12, K330/K331, K321, M14 , K341 and M16. Copper core spark plugs
provides a stronger spark that allow the ignition coil to operate cooler
and last longer. For best engine performance and longevity of the coil, set
gap at .025" with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition
system, .035" with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with
a high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 3/4" thread
reach, flat washer seat. Irrelevant Kohler part number.
High Quality Copper
Core/Non-Resistor Spark Plugs. Designed for most models of Onan opposed
twin-cylinder air-cooled small engines. Copper core spark plugs provides
a stronger spark that allow the ignition coil to operate cooler and last
longer. For best engine performance and longevity of the coil, set gap at
.025" with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system,
.035" with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with a
high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 11/16" thread
reach, flat washer seat.
Indexing Washers for Tapered
Seat Spark Plugs with 14mm Threads. Positions spark plug in OHV engines
combustion chamber with open/exposed gap toward the piston for up to 10%
more power and torque when using tractor under extreme conditions, such as
heavy mowing, garden plowing, pushing/blowing snow, or for competition pulling.
Made of copper. Available in the following thicknesses: .010", .021" and
.032". $1.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
Plastic Housing Electrical
Connector Only. Fits universal OFF-IGNITION-START key switches listed
above and other key switches with same terminal configuration. Three slots
will also fit the OEM Cub Cadet garden tractor ignition key switch. Replace
damaged connector when the brass slide-on spade crimp wire connectors are
in good condition. Requires 1/4" width slide-on brass spade crimp wire connectors
with locking tab/tang below. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
1/4" Width Slide-On Brass
Spade Crimp Wire Connector with Locking Tab/Tang. Fits plastic housing
connectors used on most OFF-IGNITION-START key switches, voltage
rectifier/regulators, head lights, etc. To remove old slide-on brass connector
from plastic housing, use a small flat blade screwdriver to depress locking
tab/tang on connector, and pull connector out of housing. Solder or use
Armature Ignition Coil with
Integrated Solid State Electronic Integrated Module. Fits Kohler Magnum
engine models M10, M12, M14 and M16. NOTE: Install this coil with spark
plug wire facing engine block as shown in photo to the right ->. Set the
air gap/clearance between the magnet in the flywheel and armature laminations
at .010" with a paper or brass feeler gauge. The .010" gap produces a stronger
magnetic field through the coil to generate more power for a stronger spark,
and so the engine won't misfire. IMPORTANT: Use a new copper
core/non-resistor AC Delco, Autolite or Champion spark plug of the correct
type gapped at .025" for longer coil life. Use of a resistor type or
Armature Ignition Coil with
Integrated Solid State Electronic Integrated Module. Fits Kohler Magnum
opposed twin cylinder engine models MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. NOTE:
Install this coil with spark plug wires facing engine block as shown in photo
to the right ->. Set the air gap/clearance between the magnet in the flywheel
and armature laminations at .010" with a paper or brass feeler gauge. The
.010" gap produces a stronger magnetic field through the coil to generate
more power for a stronger spark, and so the engine won't misfire.
IMPORTANT: Use new copper core/non-resistor AC Delco, Autolite or Champion
spark plugs of the correct type gapped at .015" each for longer coil life.
Use of resistor type or
Full Size High Energy Output
Oil-Filled 12 Volt Canister Ignition Coils - Each coil listed below have
a 3.0 ohm internal primary resistor and mounting bracket. 20,000 volts output.
Draws 3-4 amps with points or electronic ignition. Use with medium capacity
condenser. Replace defective coil or use this part when converting from
Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition.
IMPORTANT: Use a new copper core/non-resistor AC Delco, Autolite or Champion
spark plug of the correct type gapped at .030" for longer coil life. Use
of a resistor type or 
High Quality Epoxy-Encapsulated
4.0 Ohm 12 Volt Armature Universal Ignition Coil with Molded-In Dual Metal
Core Spark Plug Wires for Opposed Twin Cylinder Engines. Can be used
on Kohler engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482,
K532, K582, K660/K662, Onan opposed twin cylinder engines, or virtually any
opposed twin cylinder small engine with a fabricated bracket. Mounting hardware
included for custom applications. Two 90º spark plug boots and terminals
included. Can be used with A-1 Miller's custom-made
High Quality Chrome-Plated
4.0 Ohm Oil Filled 12 Volt Canister Ignition Coil with Dual Metal Core Conductor
Spark Plug Wires for Opposed Twin Cylinder Engine. Fits Kohler engine
models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II. Same diameter as OEM
Kohler coil. Two 90º spark plug boots and terminals included. Can be
used with A-1 Miller's custom-made
Epoxy-Encapsulated 4.0 Ohm
12 Volt Canister Ignition Coils for Opposed Twin Cylinder Engine. Each
coil below fits Kohler engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19
Series II. Can be used with A-1 Miller's custom-made
Epoxy-Encapsulated 12 Volt
Ignition Coils for Opposed Twin Cylinder Engine. Each listed below fits
Kohler engine models K482, K532, K582, or virtually any opposed twin cylinder
small engine with a fabricated bracket. Can be used with A-1 Miller's custom-made
removed
the new stator assembly and reinstalled the original stator assembly; installed
a new OEM Kohler magneto armature ignition coil on the stator; and even tried
a different flywheel, but with all of these things, one after the other,
the engine would still die out above idle, no matter what. Then I connected
a temporary battery-powered ignition system with jumper wires with alligator
clips just to find if the engine would rev up at open throttle, and it did,
with no problems! Then after all of this, I found that the charging system
would not generate the full 10 amps to recharge the battery. It would only
generate about 3 amps. (The tractor had a factory-installed amp gauge.) The
voltage rectifier/regulator was in good condition too, but there was nothing
I could do to fix this. But not all JD 110's have this problem. Only a few
of them.
tack-weld the
two supplied nuts (in alignment with drilled holes) or tack-weld head of
screws (to serve as studs) to inside of shroud, and securely fasten coil
with the two supplied spacers, lock washers to nuts or screws. (When fastened
to flywheel shroud, coil will have a nice, distinctive appearance, and like
it's factory-installed.) Use #250
Fasten the module to the engine
sheet metal that has plenty of cool, circulating air with the supplied mounting
screw.
PerTronix Ignitor II hall
effect module/sensor with black and red wires. Versatile; compensates
or automatically adjusts for the ohms in the coil and is diode-protected.
This module will not burn up if the wires are connected in reverse. Can be
used with virtually any coil with a minimum of 0.4 ohms resistance. IMPORTANT:
Module may burn up if ohms is less than 0.4.
two 8-32 UNC x 5/16" hex head
self-threading screws (not self-tapping).
Mounting of module requires
two 9/64" drilled holes. To install module behind bearing plate, use a
Connect the BLACK
wire on the sensor to the [G] terminal on the module.
Use a
Use the two bosses on the #1
cylinder to mount the bracket with the ignition module/sensor. Being there
are no bolt holes in the bosses, the center of each boss must be professionally
drilled and tapped to accept the supplied 1/4-20 UNC x 1-1/2" length grade
8 bolts with split lock washers.
COMING SOON!
A-1 Miller's Custom-Made, Reliable
and Maintenance-Free Replacement Electronic Ignition Kit for Tecumseh engine
models VH80, VH100, HH80, HH100, HH120, OH120, OH140, OH150, OH160 and OH180
with a gear starter that have a failed OEM Solid State Ignition Module
as shown to the right ->. This will NOT work on a Tecumseh engine with
a starter/generator because there are no protruding pins on the edge of the
flywheel to trigger the spark. Works great for lawn & garden, and
generator/welder engines! This ignition system works flawlessly and may outlast
the life of the engine. This replacement ignition system installs in place
of the OEM Tecumseh Solid State Ignition (SSI) module unit and is completely
hidden under the flywheel shroud from outside view, with only one wire
connection. This high performance ignition system have been thoroughly tested
under extreme conditions, and produces a stable and very strong spark with
the use of