Concerning the COVID-19 situation: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises is still in business and offering all the parts and services that's listed in this website. And being business is overwhelming and that we are short-handed working in a small shop, it may take longer than usual to process a big order. Please acknowledge your appreciation of the information in this website by making a donation through PayPal or to pay for an order.

A-1 Miller's Catalog of Conventional (Points and Condenser) Ignition Parts, Flywheel- and Crank-Trigger Electronic Ignition Kits, Parts and Information


Updated: 4/18/20 (Website reconstruction in progress) Prices are subject to change without notice. Scroll down or jump down to...
Conventional Ignition Parts (Points, Condensers, Coils, Switches, etc.)

Replace Troublesome Points and Condenser in a Magneto Ignition System with a Universal Solid State Electronic Ignition Module

Information About A-1 Miller's Custom Electronic Ignition Conversion Kits That Operate Off the Flywheel End of a Lawn & Garden Small Engine

A-1 Miller's Custom Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit for Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301 and K321 with a Starter/Generator

A-1 Miller's Custom Replacement Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit for Kohler Engines with a Failed Breakerless Ignition System

A-1 Miller's Custom Replacement Electronic Ignition Kits for Tecumseh Cast Iron Block Engines with a Failed OEM Solid State Ignition

A-1 Miller's Custom Electronic Ignition Conversion Kits for Kohler engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II

A-1 Miller's Custom Electronic Ignition Conversion Kits That Operate Off the PTO End of a Competition Pulling Small Engine


If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance and support, please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak slowly and clearly). Payment Options. Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine parts, entire engine, transaxle, transmission, entire garden tractor, etc. for rebuilding and/or repairing. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're planning to relocate our business to other property with a bigger and better shop so we can hire more help and provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)


Conventional (Points and Condenser) Ignition Parts - | Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the parts or items in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page]
Ignition Points for Kohler, Tecumseh and Clinton engines. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582 with magneto or battery ignition (use with mounting bracket). Also fits Tecumseh cast iron block engine models HH80, HH100, HH120 with magneto or battery ignition (use without mounting bracket); and Clinton engine models 414, 418, 420, 422 (use without mounting bracket). Also, use this part when converting from Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition. NOTE: If possible, apply clean lubricating grease on the hinge/pivot pin before installing points so the hole will last longer. If it's dry, it'll wear over time, effecting ignition timing, resulting in loss of engine power. Or better yet, a magneto ignition system can be upgraded with the virtually trouble- and maintenance-free electronic transistorized ignition module or battery-powered flywheel-trigger/crank-trigger ignition for a stronger and more stable spark, quicker starts, better idle and smoother running engine.
  • High quality aftermarket points without mounting bracket. Replaces Tecumseh part #'s 32011, 32011A; and Kohler # 47 150 03-S (reuse existing bracket). $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • High quality aftermarket points with mounting bracket. Replaces Kohler part # 47 150 03-S; and Tecumseh part #'s 32011, 32011A (use without bracket). $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler points with mounting bracket, part # 47 150 03-S. $14.30 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Include Hex Socket (Allen) Head Cap Screw and split lock washer (below Ê) in points w/bracket, add $1.00.


Hex Socket (Allen) Head Cap Screw w/split lock washer. Fits ignition points on single cylinder Kohler and cast iron block Tecumseh engines. Replaces Phillips or OEM slotted head adjustment screw in points. This stainless steel Allen head screw makes it much easier to precisely set the point gap and/or ignition timing with a 9/64" hex (Allen) L-wrench so the points will not slip out of adjustment in garden tractors with a longitudinal engine, such as Cub Cadet, Economy Power King, Ford, hydrostatic-drive John Deere, Pennsylvania Panzer, Meteor, Copar, etc. No need to use this on garden tractors with a transverse engine, such as older Bolens, John Deere, Sears Suburban, Wheel Horse, etc. NOTE: The threads for the adjustment screw in aftermarket points may need to be retapped with a 8-32 UNF hand tap. And due to risk of stripping threads in the thin metal points bracket, do not over-tighten this adjustment screw! An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.)
  • Hex Socket (Allen) Head Cap Screw w/split lock washer. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 9/64" Hex (Allen) L-Wrench. Measures 7/8" wide x 2-1/2" length. Made of high strength black alloy steel. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

High Quality Adjustable Chevy (GM) Ignition Points with Stiff Spring for Quick Reaction at High Engine RPMs. Includes locking/jam nut to prevent points from getting out of adjustment due to normal high RPM engine vibration. Loosen nut with a 5/16" wrench, set ignition timing with adjustment screw (and timing light), and tighten nut. For use on Kohler competition pulling engines only. An original and ingenious idea by Brian Miller. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Phillips and Socket (Allen) Head screws with split lock washers to mount ignition points and points cover on Kohler engines. These type of screws make for easier fastening of points and points cover to engine block in hard-to-get places than the OEM slotted head screws on garden tractors with a transverse engine, such as older Bolens, belt-drive John Deere, Sears Suburban, Wheel Horse, etc. Each screw replaces Kohler part # X-131-1-S. Dimensions: 10-24 UNC x 3/8" thread length. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.) TIP: When installing a screw to keep it from falling out of the screwdriver, for ordinary steel screws, temporarily magnetize the screwdriver by rubbing a magnet along the length of the shank, or for stainless steel screws, apply a dab of grease in the head of the screw.
  • New Phillips head w/split lock washers. $1.00 per pair, plus shipping & handling.
  • New Socket (Allen) Head cap screws w/split lock washers. $2.00 per pair, plus shipping & handling.
Ignition Points Pushrods. Fits Kohler K-series engine models K141, K160/K161 and K181. NOTE: Used OEM pushrod to be no less than 1.265" in length and .184" in diameter. Measure accurately to determine if need replacing.
  • Stainless Steel. A-1 Miller's high quality aftermarket part. Replace worn pushrod or use this part when converting from Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition. Replaces Kohler part # 41 411 01-S. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Aluminum. OEM Kohler part # 41 411 01-S. $22.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Flared-End Stainless Steel Points Pushrod. Install this special-made points pushrod when the points lobe on the camshaft or breaker cam (points lobe) on models K482, K532 and K582 is severely worn. Flared-end makes contact with unworn areas (sides) of points lobe. This pushrod allows maximum opening of points so ignition timing can be set at factory specifications. Can also be used with an unworn points lobe for longer wear. NOTE: Engine or governor assembly MUST be completely disassembled to install this part. The alternative to using this part is to install A-1 Miller's custom-made flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition. Replaces Kohler part # 41 411 01-S. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.)


Ignition Points Pushrods. Fits Kohler K-series engine models K90/K91, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, K482, K532 and K582. NOTE: Used OEM pushrod to be no less than 1.500" in length and .184" in diameter. Measure accurately to determine if need replacing.
  • Stainless Steel. A-1 Miller's high quality aftermarket part. Replace worn pushrod or use this part when converting from Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition. Replaces Kohler part # 47 411 04-S. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Aluminum. OEM Kohler part # 46 411 01-S. $11.90 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Stainless Steel. OEM Kohler part # 47 411 04-S. $17.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Aluminum. OEM Kohler part # X-489-8-S (listed for K482, K532 and K582 engines). $31.70 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Flared-End Stainless Steel Points Pushrod. Install this special-made points pushrod when the points lobe on the camshaft or breaker cam (points lobe) on models K482, K532 and K582 is severely worn. Flared-end makes contact with unworn areas (sides) of points lobe. This pushrod allows maximum opening of points so ignition timing can be set at factory specifications. Can also be used with an unworn points lobe for longer wear. NOTE: Engine or governor assembly MUST be completely disassembled to install this part. The alternative to using this part is to install an A-1 Miller's custom-made flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition. Replaces Kohler part #'s 47 411 04-S and X-489-8-S. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.)
Points Pushrod Seals. Each fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, K482, K532 and K582 with a 3/16" diameter points pushrod. Each prevents seepage of crankcase oil from contaminating points contacts. Please choose to use one or the other below Ê, no need to use both.

Neoprene Rubber O-Ring. Installs on points pushrod close to engine block, allowing any seepage of oil to drip down, staying off the points contacts. .50¢ each, plus shipping & handling.

Translucent, Silicone Rubber Diaphragm Seal. Slides over points pushrod to block oil seepage 100%. Held in place by points bracket. IMPORTANT - Before installing, apply clean motor oil, gear oil or lubricating grease inside seal or on points pushrod to prevent premature wear and possible oil leakage of the seal. Also used as part of the flywheel guard on various Kohler Magnum engine models M10-M16. OEM Kohler part # 220074-S. $6.25 each, plus shipping & handling. [Return to previous paragraph, section or website]

Oil-Embedded Bronze Sleeve Bushing to Repair Worn 3/16" Ignition Points Pushrod Hole in Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582. To install, the points pushrod hole will need to be precision-machined (enlarged) exactly to .250" (1/4") for a press-fit installation. Dimensions: 3/16" I.D. x 1/4" O.D. x 5/8" length.
  • $4.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Gasket for Ignition Points Cover. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582. Protects points contacts from dust, dirt and water contamination. Also, use this part when converting from Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition. OEM Kohler part # 52 041 11-S.
  • $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Grommet for Ignition Points Cover/Wire. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582. Prevents dust and dirt from contaminating points contacts, and protects points wire from rubbing/chafing against points cover or use this part when converting from Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition. FYI: RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant will serve the same purpose.
  • OEM Kohler part # 220297-S. $4.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
"Assemble It Yourself" Points-to-Coil Ignition Wire Kits. Fits Kohler engines with battery-powered ignition, models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582. Replace OEM wire with frayed/cracked insulation and/or broken connector(s) to prevent a short circuit and/or engine misfire. Each below requires use of crimp-type electrical pliers.
  • Includes 16" length, 16 gauge stranded copper wire, crimp connectors and OEM Kohler points cover/wire grommet. Use for single cylinder Kohler engines with coil located next to carburetor. Replace deteriorated wire assembly or use this part when converting from Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition. High quality A-1 Miller's part. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Includes 22" length 16 gauge stranded copper wire (cut to length if desired) and two slip-on crimp connectors. Use for single cylinder Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) engines with coil located above starter motor. Without points cover/wire grommet. (Reuse original grommet.) High quality A-1 Miller's part. $3.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Includes 22" length 16 gauge stranded copper wire (cut to length if desired), two slip-on crimp connectors and points cover/wire grommet. Use for single cylinder Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) engines with coil located above starter motor. High quality A-1 Miller's part. $7.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.

Assembled Points-to-Coil Ignition Wire Kits. Fits Kohler engines with battery-powered ignition, models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582. Replace OEM wire with frayed/cracked insulation and/or broken connector(s) to prevent a short circuit and/or engine misfire.

  • 16" length, 16 gauge stranded copper wire, crimp connectors and OEM Kohler points cover/wire grommet. Use for single cylinder Kohler engines with coil located next to carburetor. Replace deteriorated wire assembly or use this part when converting from Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition. High quality A-1 Miller's part. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 22" length, 16 gauge stranded copper wire, crimp connectors and OEM Kohler points cover/wire grommet. Use for single cylinder Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) engines with coil located above starter motor. High quality A-1 Miller's part. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 22" length, 14 gauge stranded copper wire, connectors and points cover/wire grommet. Use for single cylinder Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) engines with coil located above starter motor. OEM Kohler part # 47 125 01-S. $17.55 each, plus shipping & handling.
Points Cover. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582. Protects points contacts from dust, dirt and water contamination. Also, use this part when converting from Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition. Made of 16 gauge stamped steel. Points cover for Kohler engines with push-button kill switch for magneto ignition is no longer available.
  • Used and in excellent condition. $6.50 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
  • New. OEM Kohler part # 232535-S. $13.25 each, plus shipping & handling.
Low Capacity Ignition Condensers/Capacitors. Each fits certain Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321 and K341 with magneto ignition. Including Tecumseh cast iron block engine models HH80, HH100, HH120 with magneto ignition, Onan model P, and various other makes and models of small engines with a self-energizing magneto armature ignition coil. Each can also be used with Kohler engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II. Or each can be used with a compact epoxy-encapsulated 12 volt ignition coil in a custom-made battery-powered ignition system. 11/32" mounting hole. NOTE: Virtually any magneto ignition system can be converted to the electronic transistorized ignition module, or if possible, upgrade/convert the engine with battery-powered flywheel-trigger electronic ignition.
  • Low Capacity Ignition Condenser/Capacitor (with single screw/terminal).
    • High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 47 147 01-S. $16.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • OEM Kohler part # 47 147 01-S. $23.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Low Capacity Ignition Condenser/Capacitor (with two integrated wires). One wire connects to points, other wire connects to coil.
    • OEM Kohler part # 52 147 01-S. $28.55 each, plus shipping & handling.


Low Capacity Ignition Condenser/Capacitor. Fits certain Kohler engine models K91 and K241 with magneto ignition, and various other makes and models of small engines with a self-energizing magneto armature ignition coil. 5mm mounting hole. Can also be used with a compact epoxy-encapsulated 12 volt ignition coil in a custom-made battery-powered ignition system. 11/32" mounting hole. NOTE: Virtually any magneto ignition system can be converted to the electronic transistorized ignition module, or if possible, upgrade/convert the engine with battery-powered flywheel-trigger electronic ignition.

  • High quality aftermarket. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 220434-S, and Tecumseh part # 32015. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


Medium Capacity Ignition Condensers/Capacitors. Has twice the capacity of the low capacity condensers listed above. Designed for use with a 20,000 volt aftermarket or OEM Kohler coil; or use two of these or the high capacity/performance condenser (below) with a 30,000+ volt high-output/performance coil, Bosch blue coil, GM DIS coil, or an automotive-type distributor-driven ignition system. Use on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532, K582, and Tecumseh cast iron block engine models HH80, HH100, HH120, and various other makes and models of small engines with a 12 volt ignition system. Dimensions of each condenser: .665" diameter x 1.250" length x 3-1/2" wire length x 1/4" hole in mounting clamp.

  • High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 230722-S. $7.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler condenser/capacitor part # 230722-S. $17.45 each, plus shipping & handling.


High Capacity/Performance Ignition Condenser/Capacitor. Has twice the capacity of the medium capacity condensers listed above. Designed for use with a 30,000+ volt high-output/performance coil, Bosch blue coil, GM DIS coil, or an automotive-type distributor-driven point ignition system so engine will rev up to full RPM. Equivalent to ACCEL, Bosch, Mallory, MSD and most other name brand high performance condensers. Use on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532, K582, and Tecumseh cast iron block engine models HH80, HH100, HH120, and various other makes and models of small engines with a 12 volt ignition system. Dimensions of condenser: .665" diameter x 1.250" length x 3-1/2" wire length x 3/16" hole in mounting clamp.

  • High Capacity/Performance Ignition Condenser/Capacitor. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Used and in excellent condition. OEM Kohler condenser clamp w/9/32" mounting hole. Allows the high-output/performance condenser (listed above) be mounted next to the coil with one of the coil's mounting bolts. Otherwise, it will need to be fastened next to the points. Irrelevant Kohler part number. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


NOTE: If an engine idles well, but runs erratically when revved up, like it hits and misses, pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs a new condenser/capacitor. And always install a condenser/capacitor with the wire facing downward so rain water and/or when washing off engine, water will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it. With water inside the condenser, this will also allow it to idle well, but cause it to run erratically when revved up. Click or tap here to hear what an engine with a faulty condenser/capacitor sounds like. Or better yet, upgrade/convert the engine with an A-1 Miller's maintenance-free and weather-proof battery-powered flywheel-trigger electronic ignition system for a stronger and more stable spark, quicker starts, smoother idle and overall better running engine.

High Quality Copper Core/Non-Resistor Spark Plugs. Designed for Kohler engine models K90/K91, smaller flathead Briggs & Stratton, smaller flathead Tecumseh engines, most chainsaws and most 2-cycle lawn mower engines. Copper core spark plugs allows the ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. For best engine performance and longevity of the coil, set gap at .025" with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system, .035" with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with a high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 3/8" thread reach, flat washer seat. Replaces Briggs and Stratton part # 802592S.
  • Autolite® 455. Replaces Kohler part # 41 132 06-S. $2.50 each, plus shipping & handling. (Limited quantity.)
  • Champion® 843 (CJ8). Replaces Kohler part # 41 132 06-S. $3.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Champion® 861 (J19LM). Replaces Kohler part # 41 132 06-S. $3.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 41 132 06-S. $7.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


High Quality Copper Core/Non-Resistor Spark Plugs. Designed for Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181/M8, and cast iron block Tecumseh engine models VH80, VH100, HH80, HH100, HH120, OH140, OH150, OH160 and OH180. Copper core spark plugs allows the ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. For best engine performance and longevity of the coil, set gap at .025" with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system, .035" with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with a high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 3/8" thread reach, flat washer seat.

  • Autolite® 295 Non-Resistor. Replaces Kohler part # 41 132 02-S. $2.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Champion® 841 (J8C) Copper Plus. Replaces Kohler part # 41 132 02-S. $3.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 41 132 02-S. $9.35 each, plus shipping & handling.


High Quality Copper Core/Non-Resistor Spark Plugs. Designed for Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K330/K331, K321/M14, K341/M16, K361, K482, K532 and K582. Copper core spark plugs allows the ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. For best engine performance and longevity of the coil, set gap at .025" with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system, .035" with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with a high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 7/16" thread reach for stock OEM cylinder heads, flat washer seat.

  • Autolite® 216 Non-Resistor. Replaces Kohler part # 25 132 10-S. $2.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Champion® 844 (H10C) Copper Plus. Replaces Kohler part # 25 132 10-S. $3.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • AC Delco C45L Copper Core. Replaces Kohler part # 25 132 10-S. $3.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 25 132 10-S. $11.10 each, plus shipping & handling.


High Quality Copper Core/Non-Resistor Spark Plugs for use in machined billet cylinder heads for competition pulling only. Designed for Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K330/K331, K321/M14 , K341/M16. Copper core spark plugs allows the ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. For best engine performance and longevity of the coil, set gap at .025" with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system, .035" with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with a high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 3/4" thread reach, flat washer seat. Irrelevant Kohler part number.

  • Autolite® 4056 Copper; Tapered electrode design. $2.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Champion® 120 (N5C) Copper Plus. $2.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • AC Delco 43XL. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


High Quality Copper Core/Non-Resistor Spark Plugs. Designed for Kohler twin-cylinder flathead engine models MV16, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Copper core spark plugs allows the ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. For best engine performance and longevity of the coil, set gap at .025" with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system, .035" with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with a high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 15/32" thread reach, tapered seat.
  • Autolite® 26 Non-Resistor. Replaces Kohler part # 52 132 02-S. $2.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Champion® 25 (RV17YC) Copper Plus. Replaces Kohler part # 52 132 02-S. $3.65 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 52 132 02-S. $9.15 each, plus shipping & handling.


High Quality Copper Core/Non-Resistor Spark Plugs. Designed for most makes and models of OHV aluminum block single- and twin-cylinder air-cooled small engines. Copper core spark plugs allows the ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. For best engine performance and longevity of the coil, set gap at .025" with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system, .035" with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with a high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 5/8" thread reach, flat washer seat.
  • Champion® 71 (RC12YC) Copper Plus. Replaces Kohler part # 12 132 02-S. $3.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 12 132 02-S. $6.10 each, plus shipping & handling.


High Quality Copper Core/Non-Resistor Spark Plugs. Designed for most models of Onan twin-cylinder air-cooled small engines. Copper core spark plugs allows the ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. For best engine performance and longevity of the coil, set gap at .025" with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system, .035" with a full size battery-powered ignition coil, and .060" with a high-output/performance battery-powered coil. 14mm threads x 11/16" thread reach, flat washer seat.

  • Autolite® 106 Non-Resistor. $2.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • AC Delco R44LTS Copper Core. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Champion® 909 (RS17YX) Copper Plus. $3.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
Spark Plug Grommet. Fits Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) engine models K181AQS, M8, K241AQS, K301AQS, K321AQS and K341AQS. Fastens directly on spark plug in air duct shield (sheet metal) over cylinder head to help maintain cool air over the cylinder head. Made of neoprene rubber.
  • OEM Kohler part # 47 313 01-S. $5.05 each, plus shipping & handling.
Indexing Washers for Flat Seat Spark Plugs with 14mm Threads. Position spark plug in combustion chamber with open/exposed gap facing the center of the piston in flathead engines for more power and torque when using tractor under extreme conditions, such as heavy mowing, garden plowing, pushing/blowing snow, or for competition pulling. To know exactly where the open gap is when the spark plug is installed, use a permanent ink felt tip marker (Sharpie, Magic Marker, Marks-A-Lot) to place a mark (line) on the porcelain in-line with the open gap at the tip of the spark plug as shown in the picture to the right. And on flat seat spark plugs, leave the original compression washer on the spark plug and add the indexing washer(s) as needed until the open gap face the piston. Available in the following thicknesses: .005", .010" and .015". Made of hardened steel. .75¢ each, plus shipping & handling.

Indexing Washers for Tapered Seat Spark Plugs with 14mm Threads. Position spark plug in combustion chamber with open or exposed gap toward the piston in OHV engines for more power and torque when using tractor under extreme conditions, such as heavy mowing, garden plowing, pushing/blowing snow, or for competition pulling. Made of copper. Available in the following thicknesses: .010", .021" and .032". $1.50 each, plus shipping & handling.

Grounding-Type Safety Break-Away / Kill Switch with Pull-Pin. Use for competition pulling only; mount on rear of tractor. When the pin pulled, it grounds the ignition coil from producing spark. If using with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition systems: Connect one wire to the chassis ground, and connect the other wire to the points/condenser wire or to the kill terminal on the solid state electronic ignition coil/module. If using with a battery-powered ignition system: Connect one wire to the chassis ground, and connect the other wire to the coil negative (–) terminal. NOTE: With battery-powered ignition, as soon as pin is pulled (engine will die), manually shut off ignition switch right away to prevent possible damage to the ignition coil and electronic ignition module if equipped with crank-trigger ignition. This type of switch does not disable power to the electric fuel pump on a pulling tractor. The electric fuel pump must be shut-off manually by the ignition switch or an OFF-ON toggle switch or [security] key switch.
  • Grounding-Type Safety Break-Away / Kill Switch with Pull-Pin. $14.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Replacement Pull-Pin for Break-Away Switch listed above. Keep an extra on hand to replace a damaged or "misplaced" pin by a disgruntled competitive puller. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Universal Self-Grounding OFF/ON Switches. Designed for use with Self-Energizing Magneto Ignition, Solid State Ignition, OEM Solid State Ignition (SSI) for Tecumseh's Cast Iron Block Engines, or with OEM Kohler Breakerless Ignition. These switches can be used with virtually any small engine installed on lawn and garden equipment, garden tillers, go-karts, chainsaws, portable air compressors, portable generators/welders, portable water pumps, etc. with a recoil or push-button starter switch to crank the engine. Very durable, tough switches. Switches can be mounted in metal (grounded) pedestal, dashboard, instrument panel, engine control panel, flywheel shroud, etc. Single blade on switch connects to points wire or solid state electronic module wire/terminal to kill the engine.
  • Universal Grounding Lever. Fasten with a cylinder head bolt and hold against spark plug to kill the engine. Use only with magneto or solid state ignition. Made of spring-loaded, weather-proof anodized steel. Has two barbs for tall and short spark plugs to penetrate rubber boot. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Grounded OFF/ON Toggle Switch. Grounded through body of switch. Comes with OFF/ON indicator plate. Use #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connector on terminal when connecting ignition wire to switch. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 223072-S. $3.60 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Grounded OFF/ON Key Switch. Grounded through body of switch. Use for security of equipment. OEM switch discontinued from Cub Cadet. Replaces OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-403562-R3. Use with OEM plug or two #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals when connecting wires to switch. Requires 5/8" mounting hole. $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Universal Ignition Key. Fits all key switches listed in this website, most riding mowers and lawn tractors. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Universal OFF-ON Switches. Designed for Battery-Powered Points/Condenser Ignition or Battery-Powered Flywheel/Crank-Trigger Electronic Ignition. Each can be mounted in metal pedestal, dashboard, instrument panel, engine control panel, flywheel shroud, etc. Very durable, tough switches. Can be used on virtually anything that has a battery-powered ignition or electrical system, such as: lawn and garden equipment, garden tractors, go-karts, pulling tractors, mini-rods, hot-rods, farm tractors, automobiles, etc. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]
  • OFF/ON Toggle Switch. Can be used for lights, ignition, electric fuel pump, electric PTO clutch, etc. Maximum 20 amp capacity. Comes with OFF/ON indicator plate and two 6" wire leads. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 238011-S. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OFF/ON Pull-Push Switch. Pull out = ON, Push in = OFF. Can be used for lights, ignition, electric fuel pump, electric PTO clutch, etc. Maximum 5 amp capacity. Two screw terminal connection. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 275713. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OFF/ON Key Switch. Use for security of equipment. Use #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals when connecting wires to switch. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Universal Ignition Key. Fits all key switches listed in this website, most riding mowers and lawn tractors. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Universal Push Button Switches. Each can be mounted in pedestal, dashboard, instrument panel, engine control panel, flywheel shroud, etc.
  • Light Duty OFF/ON 15 Amp Capacity Momentary Push Button Switch. BLACK button; Normally Open; push to connect circuit. Use as starter switch to crank engine, as a safety switch, temporarily power electrical accessories, such as light(s), etc., or to power kill switch motor (on pulling sled). Starter solenoid/relay may be required if electrical load exceeds 15 amps. Use #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals when connecting wires to switch. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. 2-1/8" overall length. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Light Duty ON/OFF 15 Amp Capacity Momentary Push Button Switch. RED button; Normally Off; push to disconnect circuit. Use as a safety switch for transmission shifter in a pulling vehicle to disconnect power to the starting circuit when transmission is in gear. Use #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals when connecting wires to switch. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. 2-1/8" overall length. $16.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Heavy Duty 20 Amp Capacity Momentary Push Button Switch. Normally Open; push to connect circuit. Comes with two screws to connect between battery positive (+) post and starter motor. Heavy wire terminals and minimum #8 gauge wire recommended. Starter solenoid/relay may be required if electrical load exceeds 20 amps. Requires 5/8" mounting hole. $14.00 each, plus shipping & handling. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]
High Quality Universal 3-Position OFF-IGNITION-START Key Switch for use with Self-Energizing Magneto Ignition, Solid State Ignition, OEM Solid State Ignition (SSI) for Tecumseh's Cast Iron Block Engines, or with OEM Kohler Breakerless Ignition. Can be used for various makes and models of riding mowers, lawn & garden tractors, garden tractors and various small engine equipment with magneto or solid state ignition. Identification of 5 blade terminals: B = Battery (+); G = Ground (terminal is grounded to body of switch); L = Lights (use a separate OFF-ON switch connected to this terminal to power an electric PTO clutch); M = Magneto (Ignition); S = Solenoid (small terminal). Key positions: OFF position makes contact with M+G; IGNITION position makes contact with B+L; START position makes contact with B+S. Each terminal identified for correct wiring connections. IMPORTANT: Use with a starter solenoid/relay to crank the engine to prevent burning out internal contacts in switch. NOTE: If engine is equipped with an alternator/stator charging system, the center terminal on the voltage rectifier/regulator connects to the battery (+) terminal. If using an ammeter/amp gauge, connect the gauge/meter to the battery positive (+) post, then to the B terminal on the switch. Trace the wires on your tractor/equipment to see if they match the terminals on this switch. If they don't match, the plug-in spade connectors/wires can be rearranged in the plastic connector housing to match the corresponding terminals on the switch. To do this, use a small flat blade screwdriver to depress the locking tab/tang so the plug-in connector can be pulled out from the plastic connector housing. Bend the locking tab/tang up slightly before reinserting it in the plastic connector so it will be secured in place. Or use #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals when connecting wires to switch. Requires 5/8" diameter mounting hole.
  • Magneto or Solid State Ignition Key Switch. Our part # 9158. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Universal Ignition Key. Fits all key switches listed in this website, most riding mowers and lawn tractors. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Universal 3-Position OFF-IGNITION-START Key Switch. Designed for use with Battery-Powered Points/Condenser Ignition or Battery-Powered Flywheel/Crank-Trigger Aftermarket Replacement Electronic Ignition. Can be used for various makes and models of garden tractors, small engine equipment, mini rod pulling tractors and hot rods with battery-powered ignition or flywheel/crank trigger ignition. Identification of 5 blade terminals are: I = Ignition; A = Auxiliary (electrical accessories, such as lights, electric PTO clutch, etc.); R = Rectifier; B = Battery (+); S = Solenoid (small terminal). Key positions: OFF position makes no contact with any of the other terminals; IGNITION position makes contact with B+I+R+A; START position makes contact with B+I+R+S. Each terminal identified for correct wiring connections. IMPORTANT: Must be used with a starter solenoid to crank the engine to prevent burning out internal contacts in switch. If using an ammeter/amp gauge, connect the gauge/meter to the battery positive (+) post, then to the B terminal on the switch. Trace the wires on your tractor/equipment to see if they match the terminals on this switch. If they don't match, the plug-in spade connectors/wires can be rearranged in the plastic connector housing to match the corresponding terminals on the switch. To do this, use a small flat blade screwdriver to depress the locking tab/tang so the plug-in connector can be pulled out from the plastic connector housing. Bend the locking tab/tang up slightly before reinserting it in the plastic connector so it will be secured in place. Or use #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals when connecting wires to switch. Requires 9/16" diameter mounting hole.
  • Universal Battery Ignition Key Switch. Our part # 33393. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Universal Ignition Key. Fits all key switches listed in this website, most riding mowers and lawn tractors. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Battery Ignition 3-Position OFF-IGNITION-START Key Switch. Fits IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 154, 184, 185 and LO BOY. Universal applications; can also be used for various makes and models of garden tractors, small engine equipment, mini rod pulling tractors and hot rods with battery-powered ignition or flywheel/crank trigger ignition. For universal applications, use with #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors. Identification of 3 blade terminals are: BAT = Battery Positive (+) Post; IGN = Positive (+) Terminal on Ignition Coil ; ST = Starter Solenoid. IMPORTANT: Must be used with a starter solenoid to crank engine to prevent burning out internal contacts in switch. Unlike key switches listed above, this switch comes with a serrated key.
  • High quality aftermarket. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-60736-C3. $35.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-60736-C3. $70.80 each, plus shipping & handling.
Universal Wiring Harness with Plastic Housing Connector. Fits universal OFF-IGNITION-START key switches listed above and other key switches with same terminal configuration. Replace damaged wiring and connector, use as new wiring harness on a custom-made project, or use this part when converting from Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition. 18" length color-coded wires for easy identification. $13.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


Plastic Housing Electrical Connector Only. Fits universal OFF-IGNITION-START key switches listed above and other key switches with same terminal configuration. Replace damaged connector when the brass slide-on spade crimp wire connectors are in good condition. Requires 1/4" width slide-on brass spade crimp wire connectors with locking tab/tang below. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


1/4" Width Slide-On Brass Spade Crimp Wire Connector with Locking Tab/Tang. Fits plastic housing connectors used on most OFF-IGNITION-START key switches, voltage rectifier/regulators, head lights, etc. To remove old slide-on brass connector from plastic housing, use a small flat blade screwdriver to depress locking tab/tang on connector, and pull connector out of housing. Solder or use terminal crimping pliers to install on wire. Before installing the new connector, make sure locking tab/tang is slightly bent outward, and slide connector into plastic housing in the correct position until it locks/snaps in place. This part was never available from Kohler. $1.40 each, plus shipping & handling.

OFF/ON Main/Master Disconnect/Cutoff Switch with Removable Key. Use this 100 amp capacity switch to disable all power throughout the equipment to prevent sabotage an/or an accidental electrical short that could burn up the wiring system or entire equipment. Useful when equipment is not used for a period of time to prevent a slow drain on the battery, prevent short circuits when performing electrical service on equipment, or for a pulling tractor to prevent accidental starts or to prevent sabotage at the pull sites by disgruntled pullers. Connect between battery negative (–) post and equipment ground. Copper terminals with brass hex nuts for improved continuity. Comes with protective weather cap and two removable nylon key locks. Mounting hardware not included. $19.00 each, plus shipping & handling. [Return to previous paragraph, section or website]
Armature Ignition Coil with Integrated Solid State Electronic Integrated Module. Fits Kohler Magnum engine model M8. NOTE: Use with a new Autolite or Champion non-resistor/copper core spark plug of the correct type gapped at .025" for longer coil life. Install coil with spark plug wire facing engine block as shown in picture to the right.
  • High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 41 584 03-S. $61.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 41 584 03-S. $114.44 each, plus shipping & handling.


Armature Ignition Coil with Integrated Solid State Electronic Integrated Module. Fits Kohler Magnum engine models M10, M12, M14 and M16. NOTE: Use with a new Autolite or Champion non-resistor/copper core spark plug of the correct type gapped at .025" for longer coil life. Install coil with spark plug wire facing engine block as shown in picture to the right.

  • High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 47 584 03-S. $30.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 47 584 03-S. $114.44 each, plus shipping & handling.


Armature Ignition Coil with Integrated Solid State Electronic Integrated Module. Fits Kohler Magnum opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engine models MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. NOTES: Use with new Autolite or Champion non-resistor/copper core spark plugs of the correct type gapped at .015" for longer coil life. Install coil with spark plug wires facing outward. Either coil may fail prematurely in competition pulling with wide open throttle operation. Use A-1 Miller's reliable custom-made made crank-trigger ignition instead.

  • High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 52 584 02-S. $46.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 52 584 02-S. $196.30 each, plus shipping and handing.
Armature Ignition Coil with Integrated Solid State Electronic Integrated Magnetron™ Module. Fits Briggs and Stratton horizontal and vertical shaft opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engines. NOTE: Use with new Autolite or Champion non-resistor/copper core spark plugs of the correct type gapped at .015" for longer coil life. FYI - A self-energizing solid state electronic armature ignition coil/module require a self-grounding OFF-ON switch to short circuit the primary windings in the coil to kill the spark and shut off the engine. They do not need 12 volts of power because this will instantly burn up the coil. And save the spark plug wire off a defective coil. It has a metal core conductor, and with a battery coil terminal and rubber boot installed, it can be used in a battery-powered ignition system.
  • High quality aftermarket. Replaces Briggs and Stratton part #'s 392329, 394891, 394988, 590781. $35.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Briggs and Stratton part #'s 392329, 394891, 394988, 590781. $45.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Magneto Armature Ignition Coil. Fits Kohler engine model K91 with magneto ignition. May not fit model K90 with magneto ignition. Spark plug wire (not included) inserts into front/outward curvature of coil. Reuse OEM spark plug wire. For best engine performance and longevity of the coil, set spark plug gap at .025" with this coil. NOTE: This coil should produce a stronger spark when used with the Universal Solid State Electronic Ignition Module. Or the engine can be converted to battery-powered ignition. Dimensions: 1.700" O.D. x 1.080" length x 1/2" x 1/2" square hole. How magneto coils generate a spark.
  • High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 220435-S. $45.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Magneto Armature Ignition Coils. Fits certain Kohler K-series engine models K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331 and K341 with points, condenser/capacitor and coil under flywheel. Common with Kohler engines mounted to a generator or welder. Also fits most small- and medium-frame aluminum block Tecumseh engines with points, condenser/capacitor and coil under flywheel. For best engine performance and longevity of the coil, set spark plug gap at .025" with each coil. NOTES: These coils should produce a stronger spark when used with the Universal Solid State Electronic Ignition Module. Also, each coil listed below can be substituted for the obsolete OEM Kohler part # 275756 coil by grinding down the laminations on the armature to .405" x .405" square. Do not grind out inside of coil! To secure coil on the armature, bend one lamination over end of coil. Or engine could be converted to the more reliable battery-powered ignition system. Dimensions of each coil: 1.700" O.D. x 1.080" length x .405" square hole. How magneto coils generate a spark.
  • High Quality Aftermarket Universal Magneto Armature Ignition Coil with integrated spark plug wire. Spark plug wire protrudes from rear of coil. Replaces Kohler part #'s 232901-S, 238059 (kit), 47 145 02-S, 47 755 20-S (kit), and Tecumseh part # 30560A. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • High Quality Aftermarket Magneto Armature Ignition Coil without integrated spark plug wire. Spark plug terminal protrudes from rear of coil. Reuse OEM spark plug wire. If the spark plug wire will not pull out of the old coil, simply cut it off close to the coil, and use Super Glue to secure it in the new coil. Replaces Kohler part #'s 232901-S, 238059 (kit), 47 145 02-S, 47 755 20-S (kit), and Tecumseh part # 30560A. $35.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler Magneto Ignition Armature Coil without Retaining Clip. Spark plug wire NOT included with coil. Reuse OEM spark plug wire. If the spark plug wire will not pull out of the old coil, simply cut it off close to the coil, and use Super Glue to secure it in the new coil. Retaining clip (237919-S) discontinued from Kohler. To secure coil on armature, bend one lamination over end of coil. OEM Kohler part # 47 145 02-S. $152.40 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler Magneto Ignition Armature Coil with Retaining Clip. Spark plug wire NOT included with coil. Reuse existing spark plug wire. If the spark plug wire will not pull out of the old coil, simply cut it off close to the coil, and use Super Glue to secure it in the new coil. Retaining clip (237919-S) discontinued from Kohler. To secure coil on armature, bend one lamination over end of coil. OEM Kohler part # 47 755 20-S. $157.85 each, plus shipping & handling.
Magneto Armature Ignition Coil. Fits various Kohler engine models K90, K141, K161 and K181 with coil mounted on U-shaped ignition stator on bearing plate underneath flywheel with magnet rotor on crankshaft. Also fits various larger cast iron block Clinton engines with coil/armature mounted on cylinder, above flywheel. Common with certain generator engines. Spark plug wire not included. For best engine performance and longevity of the coil, set spark plug gap at .025" with this coil. NOTE: This coil should produce a stronger spark when used with the Universal Solid State Electronic Ignition Module. Or the engine could be converted to battery-powered ignition. Dimensions: 1.750" diameter x 1.450" length x .505" square hole. How magneto coils generate a spark.
  • New Old Stock. Discontinued OEM Kohler part #'s 22089, 231718-S. $137.00 each, plus shipping & handing. (When available.)
Ignition Coils - IMPORTANT: Most failures of a battery-powered ignition coils and/or electronic ignition control modules are caused by either the use of suppression/carbon-core spark plug wire(s), resistor-type spark plug(s), or overcharging of the electrical system due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery. Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging system. Also, any coil will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system. Also, the coil could burn up if the charging system continually overcharge due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or a defective [automotive] battery.

High Quality, High Energy, Compact Epoxy-Encapsulated 12 Volt Armature Ignition Coil w/3.5 ohm internal primary resistor, 15, 000 volt output, integrated metal core spark plug wire, and mounting hardware. Ideal for a confined engine compartment with limited space and no place to mount a full size canister coil. Can be used for general yard and garden engines, or for competition pulling with battery ignition points and low capacity condenser, or with crank trigger ignition. Coil can withstand high engine vibrations. Dimensions - overall length of armature: 3-1/2" x diameter of coil body: 1-1/4" x widest width of coil body: 1-1/2" x mounting hole spacing: 3-1/8" x length of spark plug wire: 13-1/2". To install, drill two 7/32" holes outside of flywheel shroud next to carburetor or above starter gear and fasten with two spacers and screws with matching nuts welded to inside of flywheel shroud. (When fastened to flywheel shroud, coil will look factory-installed.) Comes with separate spark plug boot and terminal. If necessary, shorten the spark plug wire (don't make it too short!), and to install terminal, make sure the pointed prong on the terminal penetrates the insulation of the wire, or strip a short part of the insulation and bend over the wire to make full connect with the terminal, and use a spark plug wire crimping tool, then apply automotive grease on the spark plug wire and inside boot so it will slide easily on the wire and over the terminal. Use #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors when connecting wires to this coil terminals. For best engine performance and longevity of the coil, use a non-resistor/copper core spark plug [Autolite or Champion] gapped at .025". How battery-powered ignition coils work. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]

  • Compact 12 Volt Armature Ignition Coil without mounting hardware. (Customer supplies own hardware.) $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Compact 12 Volt Armature Ignition Coil supplied with mounting hardware. $30.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Full Size High Energy Oil-Filled 12 Volt Canister Ignition Coils - Each coil listed below have a 3.0 ohm internal primary resistor and mounting bracket. 20,000 volts output. Use with medium capacity condenser. For longevity of the coil, use a metal core coil-to-spark plug wire and a non-resistor/copper core spark plug [Autolite or Champion] gapped at .035". Replace defective coil or use this part when converting from Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition. How battery-powered ignition coils work.

  • Used, tested and in excellent condition. Comes with a 90 day limited warranty. OEM Kohler part # 41 519 21-S. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • High quality aftermarket coil. Replaces Kohler part # 41 519 21-S. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler Coil, part # 41 519 21-S. Replaces John Deere part # AM38411 and Tecumseh part # 32080. $88.61 each, plus shipping & handling.

Full Size High-Output/Performance Epoxy-Filled Bosch Blue 12 Volt Canister Ignition Coil w/3.0 ohm internal primary resistor and mounting bracket. 30,000 volts output. Vibration-Resistant Epoxy-Filled. For longevity of the coil, use a metal core coil-to-spark plug wire and a non-resistor/copper core spark plug [Autolite or Champion] gapped at .060". Use with ignition points and two medium capacity condensers/capacitors or one high capacity/performance ignition condenser/capacitor for full coil saturation and a strong spark so engine will rev up to full speed, or can be used with ignition points and condenser or A-1 Miller's custom-made crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition kits. Set spark plug gap at .060" with this coil. This genuine Bosch blue coil is epoxy filled with a steel casing. All epoxy filled or molded epoxy coils will hold up to severe vibrations, can be mounted in any position and will not leak oil (because there is no oil). How battery-powered ignition coils work. $60.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

New 1.6 ohm Ballast Resistor for use with a 12 volt ignition coil not having an internal resistor (listed above È) to prevent excessive burning of points contacts, or use with the Chrysler / Dodge / Plymouth electronic ignition control module/unit, or connect with coil having a minimum 1.4 ohm internal primary resistor to prevent burning up the Dynatek Dyna S electronic ignition control modules. Install between the coil positive (+) terminal and wire coming from the ignition switch to the coil. This will allow the points to possibly last the life of the engine. NOTE: Ignition resistors with a higher ohm value are known as "Point Savers." The higher the ohm resistance in an ignition coil or a ballast resistor has, the longer the ignition points will last (as long as the points are installed clean, and doesn't become contaminated with dust, oil, water, etc.). Any 12 volt ignition coil with an 3+ ohm internal primary resistor connected to a minimum 1.6 ohm ballast resistor when used in a points and condenser/capacitor ignition system will allow the points to possibly last the life of the engine. Because the increased resistance allows a very low current/voltage to pass through the contacts in the points. Also, a suppression/carbon-core coil-to-spark plug wire and resistor type spark plug shouldn't be used in this system due to overheating of the ignition coil. Therefore, it's best that a high temperature metal core conductor coil-to-spark plug wire and non-resistor/copper core spark plug be used. The ignition system will still produce a strong spark because an average small engine requires only a fraction of voltage from the coil. This is best to used with general lawn and garden, snow removal, etc., and not for competitive pulling. Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging system. $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
IMPORTANT: Most failures of a battery-powered ignition coils and/or electronic ignition control modules are caused by either the use of suppression/carbon-core spark plug wire(s), resistor-type spark plug(s), or overcharging of the electrical system due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery. Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging system. Also, any coil will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system. Also, the coil could burn up if the charging system continually overcharge due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or a defective [automotive] battery. Click here to install electronic ignition on the KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II engines.

High Quality Twin Cylinder Epoxy-Encapsulated 4.0 Ohm 12 Volt Armature Ignition Coil with molded-in dual metal conductor spark plug wires. Mounting hardware included for custom/universal applications. Can be used on Kohler twin cylinder engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II, or K482, K532, K582, K660/K662 and Onan twin cylinder engines with a fabricated bracket. Can be used with the low capacity condenser listed further above. For a strong spark, best engine performance and longevity of the coil, use only non-resistor/copper core spark plugs [Autolite or Champion] gapped at .025" each, and can be used with ignition points and condenser, or A-1 Miller's custom-made crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition kits. Dimensions: 4" overall length including mounting bracket x 2-1/8" body width x 15" low tension wires x (2) molded-in 24" length spark plug wires. 20,000 volts output. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

High Quality Chrome-Plated Twin Cylinder 4.0 Ohm Oil Filled 12 Volt Canister Ignition Coil with dual metal conductor spark plug wires. Same diameter as OEM Kohler coil. Fits Kohler twin cylinder engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II. Can also be used on Kohler twin cylinder engine models K482, K532, K582, K660/K662, Onan twin cylinder engines with a fabricated bracket. Can be used with the low capacity condenser listed further above. For a strong spark, best engine performance and longevity of the coil, use only non-resistor/copper core spark plugs [Autolite or Champion] gapped at .025" each, and can be used with ignition points and condenser, or A-1 Miller's custom-made crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition kits. Includes: (1) dual tower chrome-plated ignition coil, (2) rubber spark plug wire grommets, (2) plastic thread-on coil boots, (2) 90º spark plug boots w/terminals, and (2) 18" length spark plug wires. Coil dimensions: 4-1/4" length (excluding towers) x 2-1/8" body width x 2-1/4" tower end band width. 20,000 volts output. Replaces Kohler part # 52 755 48-S. $64.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Twin Cylinder Epoxy-Encapsulated 4.0 Ohm 12 Volt Canister Ignition Coils with metal conductor spark plug wires. Each coil below fits Kohler twin cylinder engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II. Can be used with the low capacity condenser listed further above. For a strong spark, best engine performance and longevity of the coil, use only non-resistor/copper core spark plugs [Autolite or Champion] gapped at .025" each, and can be used with ignition points and condenser, or A-1 Miller's custom-made crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition kits.

  • High Quality Aftermarket. Same appearance and dimensions as OEM Kohler coil. Replaces Kohler part # 52 755 48-S. $62.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler coil with spark plug wires; part # 52 755 48-S. $286.05 each, plus shipping and handing.

Twin Cylinder Epoxy-Encapsulated 12 Volt Ignition Coils. Each listed below fits Kohler twin cylinder engine models K482, K532, K582 and K660/K662 or Onan twin cylinder engines with a fabricated bracket. For a strong spark, best engine performance and longevity of the coil, use only non-resistor/copper core spark plugs [Autolite or Champion] gapped at .025" each, and can be used with ignition points and condenser, or A-1 Miller's custom-made crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition kits.

  • High quality aftermarket. 5.0 ohm internal primary resistor. 20,000 volts output. Replaces Kohler part # 277375-S. $55.00 each, plus shipping & handing.
  • High quality aftermarket. 3.0 ohm internal primary resistor. 30,000 volts output. Replaces Kohler part # 277375-S. $55.00 each, plus shipping & handing.
  • OEM Kohler Coil, part # 277375-S. $293.10 each, plus shipping and handing.
High Quality High Performance Copper or Metal Core 7mm Spark Plug Wire Assemblies Listed Below. Universal design for many applications. Suitable for general lawn & garden equipment or competition garden tractor pulling. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532, K582 and K660/K662 (with wires cut to desired length) and other makes and models of small engines with a battery-powered ignition system. Don't be fooled by the dark color, these wires have a metal core that provide 100% voltage to the spark plug at all times! Copper or metal wire delivers maximum energy with zero ohm resistance to the spark plug, which allows the ignition coil to operate cooler and last longer. (Most OEM automotive or brightly-colored coil-to-spark plug wires have a suppression/carbon core that deliver about 40%-50% voltage to the spark plug at peak demand, which is at wide open throttle engine operation.) Solid brass terminals for maximum conductivity and corrosion resistance. Snug-fitting quality rubber boots keep out dirt and moisture for reliable engine start up. Engineered for reliability and long life. Spring-lock terminals insure positive and secure connection through the toughest conditions and multiple spark plug changes. Please specify if you need the boot for a 5/8" (most high-output/performance coils) or 3/4" (most standard-output coils) diameter coil tower.
  • 10" Length Metal Core Spark plug Wire with 90º/Angled Boot/Terminal and Straight Coil Boot/Terminal Installed. Fits Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321 and K341 with coil mounted next to carburetor on upper left side of flywheel shroud. Replace defective coil-to-spark plug wire or use this part when converting from Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition. High quality aftermarket. Irrelevant Kohler part number. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 13" Length Metal Core Spark plug Wire with 90º/Angled Boot/Terminal and Straight Coil Boot/Terminal Installed. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321 and K341 with coil mounted on carburetor side of engine on lower left part of flywheel shroud or on starter/right side of engine. Also fits Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) engine models K241, K301, K321, K341 and K361 with coil mounted above starter motor, or use this part when converting from Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition. High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued OEM Kohler part # 238057-S. $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 25-1/2" length. Universal applications. OEM Kohler part # 25 348 01-S. $13.65 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Metal Core Conductor Spark Plug Wire Set. Fits Kohler engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532, K582, K660/K662, or Onan twin cylinder engines. 14" and 18" length each.
    • High quality aftermarket. $15.00 for two spark plug wires, plus shipping & handling.
    • OEM Kohler part # 48 348 04-S. $23.65 for two spark plug wires, plus shipping & handling.
Complete Battery-Powered Ignition Conversion Kits Listed Below - When Kohler's OEM magneto or Breakerless Ignition fails, the engine can be converted to a battery-powered ignition system. Battery-powered ignition systems last longer, produce a stronger spark, and when a part goes bad, it doesn't cost much to replace. It's a reliable, simple design and there's no guesswork about it. FYI: Battery-powered ignition conversion kits are intended mainly for various older engines when the OEM magneto or Breakerless Ignition no longer produce a spark, replacement parts are not available, are very expensive or cost prohibitive. (Sometimes one must improvise when certain parts are obsolete.) Also, the most hassle when using battery-powered ignition without a charging system integrated with the engine to recharge the battery is the use of a remote battery charger. And eventually a new battery will need to be purchased, because they only last a few years. For a battery to power the ignition, a small, lightweight and rechargeable 12 volt sealed lead acid (SLA) battery with a minimum 4Ah (Amp Hour) rating or a small motorcycle battery can be used.

FYI - Kohler's Breakerless Ignition and Tecumseh's (cast iron engine) Solid State Ignition (SSI) systems use a [security] key switch that's also made for a self-energizing magneto or magneto-type solid state ignition system. Unlike the key switch for a battery-powered ignition system, the Breakerless Ignition is self-energizing, and to kill the engine, the key switch grounds out or shorts the [low voltage] circuit between the energizing coil and ignition module. And the battery-powered key switch opens the circuit to kill the engine. So with the battery-powered points and condenser ignition system (along with a 12 volt coil), you will need to use a battery-powered key switch, or an OFF-ON toggle switch or [security] key switch to power the ignition and a momentary push button switch to crank the engine could be used instead. If swapping out the OEM Breakerless Ignition, SSI, magneto or solid state ignition key switch for a battery-powered ignition key switch, the wire connectors in the wiring harness plug will need to be rearranged to match the terminals on the key switch to power the ignition, crank the engine and run other electrical accessories. I've done this before on some of my customer's garden tractors and it works great. Click or tap here for battery-powered ignition wiring diagrams.

Several years ago, an out of town customer brought his John Deere model 110 to our shop for repairs. This tractor has a Kohler engine model K181 with magneto ignition and a 10 amp alternator charging system. (The ignition coil and charging coils are on the same armature/stator plate under the flywheel.) My customer told me that he had another reputable small engine repair shop in his hometown install a new spark plug, points, condenser and an entirely new stator assembly, but they could not get the engine to rev up. Anyway, I put the tractor on the platform table that I built to make it easier to work on. The engine would start right up and idle well, but failed to rev up. It would just die out when throttled up. So I cleaned the entire carburetor, including clearing out anything that may have been lodged in the main jet, tried a new Autolite 295 copper core spark plug gapped at .025", cleaned and reset the points gap, tried another new condenser, removed the new stator assembly and reinstalled the original stator assembly, installed a new OEM Kohler magneto armature ignition coil on the stator, tried a different flywheel, but with all of these things, one after the other, the engine would still die out above idle, no matter what. Then I connected a temporary battery-powered ignition system with jumper wires just to find if the engine would rev up to full throttle, and it did, with no problems! Then after all of this, I found that the charging system would not generate the full 10 amps to recharge the battery. It would only generate about 3 amps. (The tractor had a factory-installed amp gauge.) The voltage rectifier/regulator was in good condition too, but there was nothing I could do to fix this.

So after some thoughtful consideration, I came to the conclusion that the OEM Kohler part # 237876 magneto ignition/charging system stator assembly is obviously a notorious, bad design. Although this system is still available new from Kohler, Kohler discontinued installing this on certain engines only after a short time. (Apparently, for an obvious reason.)

Anyway, I decided (actually, I had no choice because I'm so determined) to convert the engine to the more reliable battery-powered ignition system. But being this JD 110 has a confined engine compartment with limited space and with the air cleaner assembly that fastens directly to the carburetor with no upward intake elbow, there is no place to mount a full size 12 volt canister ignition coil. So I fastened a new compact epoxy-encapsulated 12 volt armature ignition coil on the carburetor side of the flywheel shroud. I removed the shroud, located where to drill two 7/32" holes to mount the coil, and tack-welded a couple of 10-24 UNC or 10-32 UNF nuts inside the shroud. Then I used a couple of spacers for the coil's armature, and fastened the coil to the nuts through the shroud with a couple of matching 10-24 UNC or 10-32 UNF screws with split lock washers. (The coil looked nice on the engine, like it's factory installed.) I could have tack-welded the head of the screws on the inside of the flywheel shroud instead, and fastened the coil with a couple of nuts on the screws from the outside. Either way would've worked fine. Anyway, then I replaced the OEM JD 110 magneto-type off-ignition-start key switch with a new universal battery-type off-ignition-start key switch. I traced each wire from the OEM key switch and rearranged the slide-on spade connectors in the plastic connector housing on the switch to match the terminals on the battery-type ignition key switch and connected the "I" terminal on the switch to the (+) terminal on the coil so the ignition system will work. I reused the same ignition points and low capacity condenser with the compact coil. The low capacity/magneto ignition condenser worked great with the compact battery-powered armature ignition coil! And I gapped the spark plug at .030" for this compact coil. When I finished, the engine started right up, idled smoothly, and revved up to full throttle with no hesitation or misfire. When my customer came to pick up his tractor, I told him everything I did to it, and being the charging system is weak, he will need to use a 120 volt portable battery charger to keep the battery fully charged.

If you have a similar ignition problem like this and if you're interested, I offer all the parts, including a new compact epoxy-encapsulated 12 volt armature ignition coil kit, that can be used to convert the magneto ignition to battery-powered ignition for your tractor. See the complete ignition conversion kit(s) below. I can also convert your tractor from a faulty magneto ignition to the more reliable battery-powered ignition if you don't mind bringing your tractor to my shop. - Brian Miller Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the parts or items in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page]

Convert virtually any single cylinder, air-cooled cast iron or various aluminum block small gas engine, such as Kohler, Tecumseh, Briggs & Stratton, Clinton, etc., with a failed magneto ignition system to the battery-powered ignition system. NOTE: Must use a universal automotive off/ignition/start key switch, or a push-button switch to crank the engine with an OFF-ON toggle switch or [security] key switch to power this ignition. Reuse same type of spark plug and existing ignition points (if in good condition), but set the point gap at .020" or set ignition timing at 20º BTDC. See ignition kits and wiring diagram below Ê.


High Quality Ignition Kit to Convert from Kohler Magneto Ignition to the More Reliable Battery-Powered Ignition System for a Confined Engine Compartment with Limited Space and no place to mount a full size canister coil. A fully charged 12 volt battery is required for this ignition system. Designed for Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331 and K341. When ordering, please indicate model of engine. New parts include: high energy compact epoxy-encapsulated 12 volt armature ignition coil w/3.5 ohm internal primary resistor and integrated metal core spark plug wire, with mounting spacers/screws/nuts; low capacity condenser/capacitor; ignition points; points cover gasket; 9" length "assemble-it-yourself" 16 gauge coil-to-points wire w/terminals (reuse original points cover/wire grommet); and new spark plug. To install terminal on spark plug wire, make sure the pointed prong on the terminal penetrates the insulation of the wire, or strip a short part of the insulation and bend over the wire to make full connect with the terminal, and use a spark plug wire crimping tool, then apply automotive grease on the spark plug wire and inside boot so it will slide easily on the wire and over the terminal. And if using this kit on an engine with a recoil starter, as for the battery cables, being I have no idea how long they need to be, you will need to fabricate these yourself. When ordering, please specify model of engine for correct type of spark plug. Dimensions of coil - overall length of armature: 3-1/2" x diameter of coil body: 1-1/4" x widest width of coil body: 1-1/2" x mounting hole spacing: 3-1/8" x length of spark plug wire: 13-1/2". To install coil, drill two 7/32" holes outside of flywheel shroud next to carburetor or above starter gear and fasten with two supplied spacers and screws with matching nuts welded to inside of flywheel shroud. (When fastened to flywheel shroud, coil will look factory-installed.) Use #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors when connecting wires to this coil terminals. Set spark plug gap at .030" with this system. IMPORTANT - Either a 12 volt battery-powered ignition OFF-ON-START key switch, a momentary push button switch (to crank the engine if it is equipped with an electric starter) with an OFF-ON toggle switch or OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition) MUST be used with this type of ignition system. Go here for choice of switches. The original magneto coil can be removed from the stator. It will not be needed. If the stator has charging coils, leave them installed and connected so they can recharge the battery and power electrical accessories. IMPORTANT - All coils will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle switch to power the ignition system.

  • Complete Ignition Kit listed above without any switches. (Customer supplies own switches.) $69.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON toggle switch (to power the ignition) for engines with a recoil starter. $72.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON toggle switch (to power the ignition) and momentary push button switch (to crank the engine) for engines with an electric starter. $81.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON-START battery-powered ignition key switch for engines with an electric starter. $84.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON key switch (to power the ignition) and momentary push button switch (to crank the engine) for engines with an electric starter. $93.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling.


High Quality Ignition Kit to Convert from Kohler Magneto Ignition to the More Reliable Battery-Powered Ignition System for an Unconfined Engine Compartment with Unlimited Space to mount a full size canister coil. A fully charged 12 volt battery is required for this ignition system. Designed for Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331 and K341. When ordering, please indicate model of engine. New parts include: full size 12 volt canister ignition coil w/3.0 ohm internal primary resistor and mounting bracket, 11" length metal core conductor spark plug wire, medium capacity condenser/capacitor, ignition points, points cover gasket, 12" length "assemble-it-yourself" 16 gauge coil-to-points wire w/terminals (reuse original points cover/wire grommet), and new spark plug (please specify model of engine when ordering for correct type of spark plug). Set spark plug gap at .035" with this system. And if using this kit on an engine with a recoil starter, as for the battery cables, being I have no idea how long they need to be, you will need to fabricate these yourself. IMPORTANT - Either an OFF-ON-START battery-powered ignition key switch or an OFF-ON toggle switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition) and a momentary push button switch (to crank the engine if it is equipped with an electric starter) MUST be used with this type of ignition system. Go here for choice of switches. And the original magneto coil can be removed from the stator. It will not be needed. If the stator has charging coils, leave them installed and connected so they can recharge the battery and power electrical accessories. IMPORTANT - All coils will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle switch to power the ignition system.

  • Complete Ignition Kit listed above without any switches. (Customer supplies own switches.) $65.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON toggle switch (to power the ignition) for engines with a recoil starter. $68.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling..
  • Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON-START battery-powered ignition key switch for engines with an electric starter. $80.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON key switch (to power the ignition) and momentary push button switch (to crank the engine) for engines with an electric starter. $89.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]

Click or Tap Here for 100% Maintenance-Free, Electronic Ignition Systems That Operate Off the Flywheel End of a Lawn & Garden Small Engine - Eliminates Points and Condenser.

Click or Tap Here for 100% Maintenance-Free, Crank-Trigger Electronic Ignition Systems That Operate Off the PTO End of a Competition Pulling Small Engine - Eliminates Points and Condenser.

New points, condensers/capacitors, coils and spark plugs for other makes and models of engines are also available. Please call or email A-1 Miller's for your needs. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the parts or items in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page]


100% Maintenance-Free, Electronic Ignition Systems That Operate Off the Flywheel End of a Lawn & Garden Small Engine - Eliminates Points and Condenser

Get That Old, Antique Small Engine Running Again with 21st Century Technology Using 100% Reliable Digital Electronic Ignition, Even When New Placement Parts Are Obsolete or Cost-Prohibited! Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the parts or items in this website. [Top of Page]

This is the era of modern wonders, where everything is transistorized, digitized and miniaturized. Yet even today, many garden tractor pullers still use breaker point ignitions on their garden pulling tractors. For other people, the frustration of attempting to keep a breaker point-fired tractor in peak running condition has been enough of a reason to join the electronic era. Breaker point systems do have some positives, though. Points are cheap and somewhat easy to install. And many people are comfortable with installing their own points. The bad side of using points is, besides the points contacts burning, pitting and wearing out, if or when the point gap gets too narrow, the ignition timing can get retarded, and when it gets too wide, the timing will become too advanced.

When the timing is retarded, the engine may be difficult to start, and when does start, it may not idle well, and it'll lack sufficient power. Also, with retarded timing, all of the fuel in the combustion chamber will not be burned. Part of the raw fuel will exit out of the exhaust, while the rest will remain in the chamber combustion and cling to the cylinder wall, causing the lubricating oil (from the crankcase) to become diluted. When this happens, "cylinder wash down" will result. Cylinder wash down is when the gas dilutes the thin coat of oil on the cylinder wall, and the piston rings will no longer be adequately lubricated, causing them to wear excessively, resulting in a smoky engine overtime. Cylinder wash down can also happen to a diesel engine when the fuel injectors are "turned up" or fuel delivery is increased so the engine will produce more power. (It will also blow a lot more black smoke out the exhaust.)

But when the ignition timing is too advanced, this will cause the engine to run too hot, which will likely cause the piston to swell, allowing it to make metal to metal contact against the cylinder wall, causing excessive wear. And the rings will lose their expansion against the cylinder wall as well. Eventually, due to the lose-fitting piston in the cylinder, the engine will create a rattling sound and start smoking out the exhaust, and it will ultimately need to be rebuilt.

If installed correctly, when the ignition is triggered by the flywheel, this stabilizes the ignition timing, so you won't ever have to worry about it changing. The engine will produce more power and you will have more confidence that the engine will last longer. So for the utmost precision ignition timing and maintenance-free convenience, flywheel-trigger electronic ignition is the way to go! These high performance ignition systems produce a stable and very strong spark. They will allow the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly, rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or misfire and produce more power.

Tired of cleaning, changing or constantly readjusting the ignition points, and replacing the condenser? Well, upgrade/convert the engine with an A-1 Miller's maintenance-free and weather-proof 100% digitized flywheel-trigger electronic ignition system for a stronger and more stable spark, quicker starts, smoother idle and overall better running engine! Shock and moisture resistant, and all it takes is a few simple hand tools to install. In my opinion, getting rid of the points and condenser/capacitor have been the best advance ever in engine technology. FYI - I've designed and sold many various custom-made electronic ignition systems to customers for the past several years and haven't received one complaint about the performance of their engine. Because I use technology that I learned from experiences with my competitive competition pulling tractors (engines) to help factory stock lawn & garden engines perform better. And as a matter of fact, other people have emailed or called me to complain to me about my competitor's replacement electronic ignition systems for Tecumseh engines. They said their technical assistance to resolve the problem was of no help. No joke. Apparently, my competitors haven't quite figured it out yet.

FYI - Kohler's Breakerless Ignition and Tecumseh's (cast iron engine) Solid State Ignition (SSI) systems use a key switch that's also made for a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition system. Unlike the key switch for a battery-powered ignition system, the Breakerless Ignition is self-energizing, and to kill the engine, the key switch grounds out or shorts the [low voltage] circuit between the energizing coil and ignition module. And the battery-powered key switch opens the circuit to kill the engine. So with the battery-powered points and condenser ignition system (along with a 12 volt coil), you will need to use a battery-powered key switch, or an OFF-ON toggle/flip switch or [security] key switch to power the ignition and a momentary push button switch to crank the engine could be used instead. If swapping out the OEM Breakerless Ignition, SSI, magneto or solid state ignition key switch for a battery-powered ignition key switch, the wire connectors in the wiring harness plug will need to be rearranged to match the terminals on the key switch to power the ignition, crank the engine and run other electrical accessories. I've done this before on some of my customer's garden tractors and it works great. Click or tap here for battery-powered ignition wiring diagrams.


Solid State Electronic Ignition Module - | Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the parts or items in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page]
Replace the Points and Condenser in a Magneto Ignition System with a Universal Solid State Electronic Ignition Module
  • Designed to convert a self-energizing magneto ignition system into the more reliable and dependable electronic ignition. Will NOT work with 12 volt battery-powered ignition systems. Module will burn up instantly when power is supplied.
  • Upgrade the magneto ignition system on virtually any engine with the latest technology! Do away with the ignition points and condenser/capacitor (plug the points pushrod hole), and install a solid state electronic ignition module. It should be the end of your ignition problems. The ignition points and condenser/capacitor is not to be connected to the coil or module. They need to be removed from the engine and plug the ignition points pushrod hole (Briggs & Stratton or Kohler engines).
  • This universal and high performance ignition system have been thoroughly tested under extreme conditions, and produces a stable and very strong spark, allowing the engine to start quickly, idle smoothly and rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or misfire to produce more power. This module has a durable die-cast aluminum housing. Weather-proof and very reliable. Ignition timing is automatically set. Resulting in no "kick back" and no timing adjustment required. Works excellent with virtually any magneto armature ignition coil!
  • Suitable for use with most 2 leg or 3 leg magneto coils and with a flywheel having one or two magnets mounted internally or externally, and with coil mounted underneath or outside of flywheel. Works great regardless of the polarity of the magnets, too. Works on most lawn mowers, chain saws, trimmers, garden tillers, snow throwers, brush cutters, various one or two cylinder outboard boat motors, etc., with ignition points and condenser/capacitor ignition. But will not work with most Stihl trimmers and chain saws, or when the armature ignition coil is energized by a generator that gets its power from the magnet in the flywheel, such as various outboard boat motors. Usually, the coil don't need replacing when substituting the ignition points and condenser/capacitor with one of these solid state electronic ignition modules. If the engine ran, then the coil is obviously good.
  • Works only with magneto type armature ignition coils originally connected to contact ignition points and a condenser/capacitor. They will not work with solid state electronic ignition (CDI) coils, battery ignition coils or with flywheels having a ring of magnets mounted internally to which the ignition coil (mounted underneath flywheel also) operates off of, such as the bigger aluminum block Tecumseh engines (8hp and up). Engines can't start under full compression and with advanced ignition timing. One or the other must be "suppressed" in order for the engine to crank over without "kicking back" to start. Either it needs to have an automatic compression release to relieve about half the compression, then the compression will return to full upon start up, or the timing needs to be positioned at TDC, then it can automatically advance upon start up. (With the module, as each magnet pass the coil, it'll produce a spark. And if the spark don't occur at the precise time with the piston at a certain position in the cylinder, the engine will either "kick back" or will not run.) "Kick back" occurs when the crankshaft/flywheel suddenly and quickly momentarily rotates in the opposite direction, which is could bend or break the starter armature shaft or the aluminum starter housing. If the magnets for the charging system won't interfere with the magneto coil(s), then these modules should work well. But if the magneto coil(s) operate off the same magnets for the charging system, then neither module won't work. The modules senses when the magnet pass the coil and that's when it makes the spark. If a bunch of magnets continually pass the coil, then the coil will produce an array of sparks.
  • How the timing is automatically set and how it works: First of all, with ignition points, the point gap determines where the ignition timing is set (on systems with a fixed or non-adjustable armature ignition coil). Therefore, the spark occurs when the magnet in the flywheel pass the coil armature the moment the ignition points open. But with no ignition points, the magnet still pass the coil armature at the same moment, which sends an electrical current through a transistor and electronic components within these modules. This current is sent in the form of a signal to the module; within, a transistor opens the primary circuit in the coil and the spark occurs. All this happens at the speed of electricity, which can be anywhere from about 50% to 99% of the speed of light, depending upon the quality of the electronic components and Wiring connections. Either module provides unlimited RPM. The conventional ignition points and condenser/capacitor ignition system is less responsive.
  • This module should work very well with most magneto armature ignition coils. However, a new coil is recommended to use with this module. If a used coil is utilized, a weak spark may occur. This module is not for use on engines equipped with battery ignition, solid state electronic armature ignition coil/module or multiple magnets under the flywheel with armature ignition coil under the flywheel, too. Scroll down for wiring diagrams and installation instructions Ê.

Wiring Diagram and Installation Instructions for Universal Solid State Electronic Magneto Ignition Module are as follows:

  1. Fasten the module to the engine sheet metal that has plenty of cool, circulating air with the supplied mounting screw.
  2. Connect the supplied wire to one of the terminals on the module and to engine ground.
  3. The armature ignition coil has two small wires coming out of it. Leave the original (short) wire connected (grounded) to the stator armature, and connect the wire that went to the points and condenser to the unused terminal on the module.
  4. Remove the spark plug from the cylinder head, and connect the high tension coil wire to a new spark plug positioned on a (grounded) metal part of the engine.
  5. Crank the engine rapidly, and at the same time, observe for a blue, snappy spark. If there's no spark, try reversing the two wires on the module. (This is due to reverse polarity in the flywheel magnet.)
NOTE: The alternative to using either of the items below is to remove the ignition points and points pushrod, and place the pushrod on a hard, flat surface, and use a hammer and sharp flat cold chisel to lightly create knurled raised marks midway on the pushrod. Then reinstall the pushrod in the engine block with the hammer. The knurling will retain the pushrod in the hole.

3/16" Plug to Replace Kohler Points Pushrod. Use in Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, K482, K532 and K582 when converting from magneto to solid state ignition (listed above), Magnum solid state ignition, A-1 Miller's flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition (further down in this website). Install with a medium size hammer; fits very tight. OEM Briggs & Stratton part #'s 231143, 692882. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Block-Off Plate to Cover Kohler Points Pushrod Hole. Use in Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582 when converting from magneto to solid state ignition (listed above), Magnum solid state ignition, or A-1 Miller's flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition (further down in this website). Made of 1/8" thickness aluminum or steel. Apply RTV silicone sealant to prevent oil leak and use OEM ignition points mounting screws to secure in place. A-1 Miller's part. $4.00 each, plus shipping & handling. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.) [Return to previous paragraph, section or website]


Convert the Points/Condenser Ignition System to a Maintenance-Free, Reliable Flywheel-Triggered Electronic Ignition System on a Kohler engine model K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301 or K321 with the 8" Flywheel and Starter/Generator | [Top of Page]

This ignition system works flawlessly, is very reliable and may outlast the life of the engine. This ignition system operates with 12 volts DC negative ground. This high performance ignition system have been thoroughly tested under extreme conditions, and produces a stable and very strong spark, even with a stock ignition coil (the 30,000 volt Bosch blue coil is not needed with this system), allowing the engine to start quickly, idle smoothly and rev up to full speed. To prevent burning up the PerTronix Ignitor module, it MUST be used with a coil having a minimum of 3.0 ohm resistance. The PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor electronic ignition sends more energy to the coil, which delivers twice the voltage to the spark plug, increasing horsepower, engine efficiency and spark plug life. Hall Effect integrated circuit means no points to burn, and no moving parts to wear out. Epoxy molding makes the module/sensor impervious to dirt, oil, grease and moisture. Stable timing - no need for any adjustments. This simple and reliable ignition system produce a stable and very strong spark, and the ignition timing will always be set at the factory recommended 20º BTDC, or wherever you set it. This system can be used on ordinary lawn & garden engines or for competition pulling engines (if rules permit). This ignition system may outlast the life of the engine. This revolutionizes the ignition system for older cast iron block Kohler engines with the starter/generator and 8" flywheel! The PerTronix Ignitor must be used with a minimum 3.0 ohm coil or module will burn up. Most small engine battery ignition coils have a 3.0 or 4.0 ohm internal primary resistor. But test your coil just to make sure! Click or tap here to learn how to test the ohm resistance in a coil. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.)

IMPORTANT: Most failures of a battery-powered ignition coils and/or electronic ignition control modules are caused by either the use of suppression/carbon-core spark plug wire(s), resistor-type spark plug(s), or overcharging of the electrical system due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery. Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging system. Also, any coil will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system. Also, the coil could burn up if the charging system continually overcharge due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or a defective [automotive] battery.

  • Compact and out-of-the-way design. module/sensor fits under the flywheel shroud and fastens to the bearing plate. No "bulky ignition box" and wiring to clutter the engine compartment.
  • Stable ignition timing with solid state electronic circuitry. No points to burn or wear, and no need for adjustment... ever!
  • Epoxy molded sealed module/sensor makes this part impervious to dirt, oil, grease and moisture.
  • 2:1 improvement over points in current fall time for increased coil output.
  • Compatible with most ignition coils with a minimum of 0.3 ohm primary resistance. IMPORTANT - Do not use a coil of lesser ohm resistance because it may cause the module/sensor to burn up.
  • This type of electronic ignition sends more energy to the coil, which delivers twice the voltage to the spark plug, increasing horsepower, engine efficiency and spark plug life. It allows the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly, rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or misfire and produce more power. Cold weather engine start-up energy boost and maintains peak energy throughout the entire engine RPM.
  • An innovative and ingenious design and concept by Brian Miller.
  • Kit Without Any Ignition Coil. Customer reuse their own 3.0+ ohm coil. Click here to test the ohms resistance in a coil. Kit includes: New hall effect PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor, aluminum spacer, thermal paste and mounting screws, trigger screw w/magnet and rubber cushioning washer (prevents the magnet from breaking when screw is tightened) (weighs 1/10 oz. / 6 grams), and plug for the points pushrod hole. $96.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Kit With New Compact Epoxy-Encapsulated Armature Ignition Coil. Coil fastens on outside of flywheel shroud with welded mounting nuts on inside of shroud. Includes: New hall effect PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor, aluminum spacer, thermal paste and mounting screws, trigger screw w/magnet and rubber cushioning washer (prevents the magnet from breaking when screw is tightened) (weighs 1/10 oz. / 6 grams), new high energy compact 3.5 ohm coil w/mounting hardware and wire connectors, and plug for the points pushrod hole. $121.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Kit With New Full Size canister Ignition Coil. Includes: New hall effect PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor, aluminum spacer, thermal paste and mounting screws, trigger screw w/magnet and rubber cushioning washer (prevents the magnet from breaking when screw is tightened) (weighs 1/10 oz. / 6 grams), new full size 3.0 ohm coil with wire connectors, and plug for the points pushrod hole. $121.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Directions to Install This Kit -

  1. Remove the points and condenser and block-off the points pushrod hole with the supplied plug.
  2. Align or center the S timing mark on the flywheel with the timing sight hole in the bearing plate, and draw a line on the edge of and lengthways with the flywheel at the 10:30 position.
  3. Draw another line 1" from the bearing plate crossways with the line on the flywheel. The trigger screw w/magnet and rubber cushioning washer will install where the two lines intersect. This spot will allow the magnet to clear the flywheel shroud mounting boss on the bearing plate located at the 4:30 position.
  4. Drill and tap 6-32 UNC threads in the flywheel and install the magnet with the supplied trigger screw w/magnet and rubber cushioning washer where the two drawn lines intersect. The screw head is magnetized to trigger the spark. IMPORTANT - The module/sensor is activated by the South pole of the magnet, so do not remove the magnet from the screw. And use caution when handling rare earth/neodymium magnets. They are very brittle and can break easily when snapped onto something or when the screw is overtightened. Secure the screw threads with high strength liquid threadlocker (Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent), and tighten the screw just until the rubber washer begin to bulge. FYI - Store a container of liquid threadlocker or Super Glue upright and not laying flat. The capped tip will not dry out and clog when stored upright.
  5. With the S mark on the flywheel aligned or centered with the timing sight hole in the bearing plate, center the Ignitor with the magnet, allow .010"-.050" clearance, mark on the bearing plate and drill and tap 6-32 UNC threads in the bearing plate to mount the Ignitor and spacer. Be sure to apply thermal paste (to dissipate the operating heat) between the Ignitor module/sensor and aluminum spacer to help cool the module, and securely fasten the Ignitor module/sensor on top of the aluminum spacer to the bearing plate with the supplied 6-32 UNC screws and split lock washers. IMPORTANT - Gently rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand to check and see that the module/sensor does not make contact with the screw head. Damage to the module/sensor will occur if it makes contact with the screw head!
  6. Drill a 5/16" hole through the bearing plate behind the Ignitor and route the wires from the Ignitor to the ignition coil. Bevel or chamber the drilled hole, use a rubber grommet or apply clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant in the hole and around the wires to hold the wires rigid to prevent the insulation on the wires from rubbing and possibly being shorted.
  7. Disconnect and do away with the wires to the points and condenser (plug the points pushrod hole). Connect the BLACK wire on the Ignitor to the coil negative (–) terminal, and connect the RED wire on the Ignitor to the coil positive (+) terminal and to the ignition switch (battery positive (+) post). FYI - The module/sensor is diode-protected, and will NOT burn up if the wires are connected in reverse to the coil with power supplied. (Distinctive A-1 Miller's feature.) But the module/sensor will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle switch to power the ignition system.
  8. With an ordinary stock coil, set the spark plug gap .035" and place the spark plug on a grounded metal cover. Turn the ignition switch on, rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand so the magnet passes the Ignitor and observe for a strong, blue spark at the spark plug's tip. Click or tap here to print out these installation instructions.

Replacement PerTronix Ignitor hall effect module/sensor with black and red wires. IMPORTANT: Must be used with a minimum 3.0 ohm coil or module will burn up. Click here to test the ohms resistance in a coil. FYI - This module/sensor is diode-protected, and will NOT burn up if the wires are connected in reverse to the coil with power supplied. (Distinctive A-1 Miller's feature.) But the module/sensor will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle switch to power the ignition system. Use with small magnet in aluminum rotating disc or small steel screw w/ring magnet (below) fastened on edge of flywheel to trigger the spark. $75.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


Trigger Screw w/Magnet and Rubber Cushioning Washer. The rubber washer prevents the magnet from breaking when the screw is tightened. Fasten on edge of flywheel to trigger the spark. Screw threads: 6-32 UNC. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


If a Kohler flywheel has no projection (hump) or OEM protruding bolt head for Breakerless Ignition, but does have a 3/4" wide area between the fins and ring gear (as shown in the pictures above È), or a billet steel flywheel, to use a magnetic pickup coil, 3-wire inductive (detects iron/steel) proximity sensor, a small, short steel Phillips or button head socket (Allen) Head screw and a minimum 1/4" length aluminum spacer secured with a split lock washer or high strength liquid threadlocker (Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent) can be used as the signal detection for the flywheel-trigger electronic ignition. A steel dowel pin or knurled steel pin could be used instead of a screw or spiral pin, but because of exerted centrifugal force, the screw would be more secure due to its thread retention. FYI - Store a container of liquid threadlocker or Super Glue upright and not laying flat. The capped tip will not dry out and clog when stored upright.

The curvature or dome shaped heads of button- and Phillips-head screws makes them ideal for use on a trigger disc or flywheel. Spark occurs at the leading (high side) edge of the hump or screw, and not in the center of the hump or screw. When the magnetic pickup coil or cube-shaped proximity sensor is at the leading edge of the hump and when the S mark on the flywheel is aligned with the raised mark on the bearing plate, it is at this point the timing is at 20º BTDC. But if the flywheel has the 3/4" wide area, but no projection or hump", with the magnetic pickup coil or cube-shaped proximity sensor installed on the bearing plate and the 20º BTDC mark on the flywheel aligned with the raised mark on the bearing plate.

When using an inductive proximity sensor, being proximity sensors detect a farther distance (up to 3/16") than a magnetic pickup coil, install a 3/4" length steel screw with a 1/4" length aluminum spacer (to retain flywheel balance). This will extend the detectable target 1/4" above the surface of the flywheel to prevent an out of time spark occurrence by part of the flywheel itself. Or if using a non-magnetic pickup coil, 3-wire hall effect proximity sensor or a hall effect PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor, a small ring magnet fastened by a small screw can be used to create a rotating magnet detection target. The head of the screw will become magnetized.

An 8-32 UNC or 10-32 UNF x 1/2" length screws with a split lock washer (and small magnet) only weighs about 1/10 of an ounce or 3 grams, so this will not make the flywheel significantly noticeably or dangerously out of balance. But if you're concerned about the flywheel being out of balance with the trigger screw/bolt, pin or screw w/ring magnet installed, the flywheel can be static balanced by weighing the flywheel and screw/bolt, pin or screw w/ring magnet separately on a precision scale, make a note of the exact weight of each item, and either install a stainless steel screw of the same exact weight as the trigger screw and magnet on the opposite side of the flywheel (180º apart), or drill a couple of shallow holes into the flywheel next to or beside the installed trigger screw/bolt, pin or screw w/ring magnet to put the flywheel back in balance. Make sure the flywheel is perfectly clean of dirt and debris, too. Actually, it's best to have the flywheel with the trigger screw/bolt, pin or screw w/ring magnet installed dynamically precision spin-balanced on a automotive balancing machine. Again, make sure the flywheel is perfectly clean of dirt and debris.

And for the ignition timing to be set at 20º BTDC, with the S mark on the flywheel and raised line on the bearing plate aligned, the screw will need to be located at 2-3/8" when using a magnetic pickup coil or proximity sensor. This setup can be adapted to a Kohler engine with the flywheel that has the starter/generator and gear starter alike. Or it can be applied to an engine with a steel flywheel for competition pulling. And the mounting holes in the angled bracket for the magnetic pickup coil can be elongated for precise adjustment/setting of the timing. If there's already a projection (hump) or OEM protruding bolt head on the flywheel, then there's no need to modify the flywheel for this conversion or upgrade. If they're not already present, new 10-24 UNC threads will need to be drilled and tapped in the two raised bosses in the bearing plate to mount the bracket for the sensor's bracket. An original, ingenious, thoroughly researched and innovative concept invented by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this for use on a small engine. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.)


Information About Converting from Kohler's [Failed] Breakerless Ignition to a Custom Electronic Ignition System or a Battery-Powered Points/Condenser Ignition System | [Top of Page]

The wire that connects from the stator to the Kohler Breakerless Ignition Trigger Module or Tecumseh Solid State Ignition Module generates about 250 volts while the engine is running at full governed speed. (Seriously; I tested it with a voltmeter.) Do not touch this wire/terminal with one bare hand and the engine itself with your other hand while the engine is running! Electrical shock or electrocution could result. This wire is not required with any of A-1 Miller's custom-made flywheel-trigger electronic ignition systems. So snip off this wire or tape up the terminal.

There is a tiny brass cup/expansion plug in the points pushrod hole. This plug MUST be removed for using the pushrod when converting to points ignition. To prevent damage to certain moving parts inside the engine and possible eventual engine failure, do not punch this plug into the crankcase! It may NOT drain out with the oil when the oil is changed. To remove this plug, carefully and gently drill a 3/32" pilot hole through the plug, then use a #6 self-tapping drywall screw (a small ordinary self-tapping screw may not work as well) with Vise-Grips or a small crowbar or pry bar to pull the plug out of the hole. Because the self-tapping drywall screw by itself may not be able to bore a hole through the plug without pushing it deeper into the drilled hole. And do not force the drill bit into the plug or it could fall inside the crankcase! And a 3/16" drill bit or hand reamer may need to be used to clean out any debris from the pushrod hole. After the points is installed, and with the piston positioned at TDC on the compression stroke, set the point gap at .020". Or better yet, set the ignition timing at 20º BTDC, and reuse the same type of spark plug gapped at .035".

Custom-Made Electronic Ignition Kits (below) for Converting to Flywheel-Trigger Ignition for Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321, K341, K361 that came with points/condenser ignition or with Breakerless Ignition. Do away with the old fashioned points and condenser ignition, or defective and cost-prohibitive Breakerless Ignition components, and convert your engine to the reliability, dependability and durability of flywheel-trigger ignition! NOTE: Engine must have the large bearing plate with two mounting bosses to install the triggering device and 9" flywheel with 3/4" wide area with the OEM projection (hump), OEM protruding bolt head, or install a small screw/bolt (so the sensor can detect it). Must also use an OFF-ON toggle switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; for ignition) and momentary push-button switch (to crank the engine) for ignition system below Ê. With this ignition setup, the ignition timing will be set at 20º BTDC, and reuse same type of spark plug, but set gap at .035" for a stronger spark.

Option #1 - Complete Kit to Convert from [a failed] OEM Kohler Breakerless Ignition to the More Reliable A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition System. Designed for Kohler engine models K181, K241, K301 and K321 that originally came with Breakerless Ignition, because these have the "hump" or projection on the edge of the flywheel. This ignition system works flawlessly and may outlast the life of the engine. This high performance ignition system have been thoroughly tested under extreme conditions, and produces a stable and very strong spark, even with a stock ignition coil (the 30,000 volt Bosch blue coil is not needed with this system), allowing the engine to start quickly, idle smoothly and rev up to full speed. It will allow the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly, rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or misfire and produce more power. This ignition system may outlast the life of the engine. This revolutionizes the ignition system for older cast iron block Kohler engines! NOTE - Being this ignition system operates with 12 volts DC negative ground, the OEM key switch for Breakerless Ignition will not work with any battery-powered ignition systems. The switch used with Breakerless Ignition is actually a magneto ignition switch, which when the engine is shut-down, it grounds the self-energizing wire connected to the ignition system. And battery ignition requires a switch that disconnects the coil from the power source (battery). So with this ignition system, you will need either an OFF-ON-START battery-powered ignition key switch, or an OFF-ON toggle switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition) and a momentary push button switch (to crank the engine). Go here for choice of switches. To install this replacement ignition system; the ignition coil mounts in place of the Breakerless Ignition coil; the proximity cube sensor/bracket mounts in place of the Breakerless Trigger Module; and the GM HEI ignition control module with thermal paste (to dissipate the operating heat) can be fastened on the backside of the bearing plate, on the left side when facing the flywheel, or on an aluminum plate mounted elsewhere with plenty of cool, circulating air to dissipate the heat and cool the unit while in operation. Two 9/64" holes will need to be drilled and tapped to mount the module. (Sometimes one must improvise when certain parts are obsolete.) This kit has a limited one year warranty. This is a thoroughly researched and ingenious concept by Brian Miller. Click or tap here to print out wiring diagram and wiring connection instructions. Contact Brian Miller for installation tech support.

IMPORTANT: Most failures of a battery-powered ignition coils and/or electronic ignition control modules are caused by either the use of suppression/carbon-core spark plug wire(s), resistor-type spark plug(s), or overcharging of the electrical system due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery. Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging system. Also, any coil will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system. Also, the coil could burn up if the charging system continually overcharge due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or a defective [automotive] battery.

List of Parts in Kit Include:

  • New cube-shaped 3-wire inductive proximity sensor w/mounting adapter and two Allen head mounting screws.
  • New ordinary/stock 4-pin GM HEI electronic ignition control module w/packet of thermal paste and two #8 Torx pan head self-threading mounting screws. (Requires two #29 or 9/64" drilled holes and T-20 Torx bit).
  • One 3/16" slip-on crimp wire connector, three 1/4" slip-on crimp wire connectors, three 3/16" ring crimp wire connectors and two wire clamps (loops).
  • New 1.0 ohm or 1.5 ohm canister ignition coil w/mounting bracket and 10" or 13" spark plug wire. IMPORTANT - Due to length of coil-to-spark plug wire, please indicate if original coil is mounted next to carburetor or above starter gear.
  • New Autolite 216 or Champion 844 (H10C) spark plug. Set spark plug gap at .035" with this system.
    • Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON toggle switch (to power the ignition) and momentary push button switch (to crank the engine). $165.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
    • Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON pull-push switch (to power the ignition) and momentary push button switch (to crank the engine). $165.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
    • Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON key switch (for security reasons; to power the ignition) and momentary push button switch (to crank the engine). $224.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
    • Complete Ignition Kit listed above with OFF-ON-START battery-powered ignition key switch. $165.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
    • Complete Ignition Kit listed above without any switches. (Customer supplies own switches.) $150.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.


Option #2 - Complete Kit to Convert from [a failed] OEM Kohler Breakerless Ignition to the More Reliable Battery-Powered Points and Condenser Ignition System with a Full Size canister 12 Volt Ignition Coil. Designed for Kohler engine models K181, K241, K301, K321 that originally came with Breakerless Ignition. New parts include: 12 volt 3.0 ohm full size canister ignition coil w/mounting bracket, metal core conductor spark plug wire, medium capacity condenser/capacitor, ignition points, stainless steel points pushrod, points cover, points cover gasket, four 10-24 UNC Phillips head screws w/lock washers, Autolite 216 or Champion 844 (H10C) spark plug, and 12" cut-to-length 16 gauge coil-to-points wire w/terminals and points cover/wire grommet. IMPORTANT - Due to length of points-to-coil wire and length of coil-to-spark plug wire, please indicate if original coil is mounted next to carburetor or above starter gear. Set spark plug gap at .035" with this system. NOTE - Being this ignition system operates with 12 volts DC negative ground, the OEM key switch for Breakerless Ignition will not work with any battery-powered ignition systems. The switch used with Breakerless Ignition is actually a magneto ignition switch, which when the engine is shut-down, it grounds the self-energizing wire connected to the ignition. And battery ignition requires a switch that disconnects the coil from the power source (battery). So with this ignition system, you will need either an OFF-ON-START battery-powered ignition key switch, or an OFF-ON toggle switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition) and a momentary push button switch (to crank the engine). Go here for choice of switches. IMPORTANT: Most failures of a battery-powered ignition coils and/or electronic ignition control modules are caused by either the use of suppression/carbon-core spark plug wire(s), resistor-type spark plug(s), or overcharging of the electrical system due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery. Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging system. Also, any coil will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system. Also, the coil could burn up if the charging system continually overcharge due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or a defective [automotive] battery.

  • Complete Ignition Kit listed above with an OFF-ON toggle switch or key switch (to power the ignition) and a momentary push button switch (to crank the engine). $102.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Complete Ignition Kit listed above with an OFF-ON-START battery-powered ignition key switch. $102.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Complete Ignition Kit listed above without any switches. (Customer supplies own switches.) $87.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling.


NOTE: The alternative to using either of the items below is to remove the ignition points and points pushrod, and place the pushrod on a hard, flat surface, and use a hammer and sharp flat cold chisel to lightly create knurled raised marks midway on the pushrod. Then reinstall the pushrod in the engine block with the hammer. The knurling will retain the pushrod in the hole.

3/16" Plug to Replace Kohler Points Pushrod. Use in Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, K482, K532 and K582 when converting from magneto to solid state ignition (listed above), Magnum solid state ignition, A-1 Miller's flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition (further down in this website). Install with a medium size hammer; fits very tight. OEM Briggs & Stratton part #'s 231143, 692882. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Block-Off Plate to Cover Kohler Points Pushrod Hole. Use in Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, K482, K532 and K582 when converting from magneto to solid state ignition (listed above), Magnum solid state ignition, or A-1 Miller's flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition (further down in this website). Made of 1/8" thickness aluminum or steel. Apply RTV silicone sealant to prevent oil leak and use OEM ignition points mounting screws to secure in place. A-1 Miller's part. $4.00 each, plus shipping & handling. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.) [Return to previous paragraph, section or website]


A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Replacement Electronic Ignition Kits for Tecumseh Cast Iron Block Engines | [Top of Page]

A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Replacement Electronic Ignition Kits for Tecumseh engine models VH80, VH100, HH80, HH100, HH120, OH120, OH140, OH150, OH160 and OH180 with a gear starter that have a failed OEM Solid State Ignition. This ignition system works flawlessly and may outlast the life of the engine. This replacement ignition system installs in place of the OEM Tecumseh Solid State Ignition (SSI) module unit and is completely hidden under the flywheel shroud from outside view, with only one wire connection. This high performance ignition system have been thoroughly tested under extreme conditions, and produces a stable and very strong spark, even with the compact armature ignition coil as shown in the pictures, allowing the engine to start quickly, idle smoothly and rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or misfire to produce more power. Epoxy molding makes the module/sensor and coil impervious to dirt, oil, grease and moisture. This ignition system may outlast the life of the engine. This revolutionizes the ignition system for older cast iron block Tecumseh engines! NOTE - Being this ignition system operates with 12 volts DC negative ground, the OEM key switch for the Tecumseh Solid State Ignition (SSI) will not work with any battery-powered ignition systems. The OEM switch used with SSI is actually for magneto ignition, which when the engine is shut-down, it grounds the self-energizing wire connected to the SSI ignition. And battery ignition requires a switch that disconnects the power source from the ignition. So with this ignition system, you will need either an OFF-ON-START battery-powered ignition key switch, or an OFF-ON toggle switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition) and a momentary push button switch (to crank the engine). Go here for choice of switches. Limited one year warranty. Actual picture of ignition system shown above. Concept and design by Brian Miller.

IMPORTANT: Most failures of a battery-powered ignition coils and/or electronic ignition control modules are caused by either the use of suppression/carbon-core spark plug wire(s), resistor-type spark plug(s), or overcharging of the electrical system due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery. Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging system. Also, any coil will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system. Also, the coil could burn up if the charging system continually overcharge due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or a defective [automotive] battery.

Replacement Tecumseh Electronic Ignition Kit with PerTronix Ignitor. (Fires off the short pin in the flywheel; remove the long pin. It will not be needed and will interfere with proper operation of the ignition system.) This ignition system operates with 12 volts DC negative ground. Includes: new PerTronix Ignitor module/sensor and new high quality, high energy compact epoxy-encapsulated 12 volt armature ignition coil w/integrated metal core spark plug wire, both fastened to an aluminum mounting plate, new Autolite 295 or Champion J8C spark plug, new momentary push-button switch (to crank the engine; optional) and new OFF-ON toggle switch/flip switch or [security] key switch (to power the ignition; optional).

Installation Instructions for Replacement Tecumseh Electronic Ignition System listed above:

  1. The module/sensor detects and fires off ONLY the short pin in the flywheel so the engine will run right and produce full power. Therefore, remove or drive down the long pin until it's flush with the surface of the flywheel. FYI - I've done a lot of research on this and the long pin MUST be absent for this ignition system to work right!
  2. Set air gap/clearance between firing pin and module/sensor at .010"-.050" with a paper, plastic or brass feeler gauge, then securely tighten the mounting fasteners. IMPORTANT - Gently rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand to check to check that the module/sensor does not make contact with the firing pin. Do not allow the module/sensor to make contact with the pin while the engine is running!
  3. If necessary, shorten the spark plug wire (don't make it too short!), and install the terminal and spark plug boot. Install terminal first. Make sure the pointed prong on the terminal penetrates the insulation of the wire, or strip a short part of the insulation and bend over the wire to make full connect with the terminal, and use a spark plug wire crimping tool, then apply automotive grease on the spark plug wire and inside boot so it will slide easily on the wire and over the terminal.
  4. Set the spark plug gap at .030".
  • Replacement Tecumseh Electronic Ignition System with momentary push-button switch (to crank engine) and OFF-ON toggle switch or key switch (to power ignition). $195.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Replacement Tecumseh Electronic Ignition System listed above without momentary push-button switch (to crank engine) and OFF-ON toggle switch or key switch (to power ignition). (Customer supplies own switches.) $175.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Click or tap here to print out the installation and wiring instructions for this system.


A-1 Miller's Economy Replacement Electronic Ignition Kit. This ignition system works flawlessly and may outlast the life of the engine. This ignition system operates with 12 volts DC negative ground. This high performance ignition system have been thoroughly tested under extreme conditions, and produces a stable and very strong spark, even with a stock ignition coil (the 30,000 volt Bosch blue coil is not needed with this system), allowing the engine to start quickly, idle smoothly and rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or misfire to produce more power. Includes: New 3/8" x 1" magnetic pickup coil w/1/8" thickness angled mounting bracket, choice of new Chrysler ignition control module w/new ballast resistor or new Ford ignition control module, new 1.0 ohm full size canister coil w/new coil-to-spark plug wire, and new Autolite 295 or Champion J8C spark plug. Magnetic pickup coil and angled mounting bracket installs in place of OEM SSI module, and replacement ignition control module and coil fastens on outside of engine. Click or tap here for wiring instructions and diagrams. An ingenious and original innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.)

IMPORTANT: Most failures of a battery-powered ignition coils and/or electronic ignition control modules are caused by either the use of suppression/carbon-core spark plug wire(s), resistor-type spark plug(s), or overcharging of the electrical system due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or defective [automotive] battery. Therefore, if it's not already equipped, it's best to install an ammeter/amp gauge to monitor the charging system. Also, any coil will burn up if the ignition switch is left on with the points closed for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle/flip switch to power the ignition system. Also, the coil could burn up if the charging system continually overcharge due to a defective voltage rectifier/regulator or a defective [automotive] battery.

  • Tecumseh Electronic Ignition Kit listed above without momentary push-button switch (to crank engine) and OFF-ON toggle switch or an OFF-ON key switch ( to power ignition). (Customer supplies own switches.) $148.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • Tecumseh Electronic Ignition Kit listed above with momentary push-button switch (to crank engine) and OFF-ON toggle switch or an OFF-ON key switch ( to power ignition). $168.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.

(Posted 8/24/20) I've been receiving several emails and phone calls from people who purchased another type of custom-made electronic ignition system from another person online for their cast iron block Tecumseh engine. And if you're experiencing problems with this type of system, you will need to complain to the person you purchased it from. Because being I'm not familiar with another person's custom-made ignition system, the advice I give you to get your engine running right may not be 100% accurate. It'll be like a Chevrolet car dealer/repair shop trying to tell someone how to fix their Ford vehicle. FYI - I thoroughly test every custom-made electronic ignition system that I offer in my websites to sure they work flawlessly. - Brian Miller


If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance and support, please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival. E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine parts, entire engine, transaxle, transmission, entire garden tractor, etc. for rebuilding and/or repairing. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're planning to relocate our business to other property with a bigger and better shop so we can hire more help and provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)


A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit for Kohler opposed twin cylinder engine models KT17 Series II and KT19 Series II, except generator engines | [Top of Page]

A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit for Kohler opposed twin cylinder engine models KT17 first design, KT17 Series II, KT19 first design and KT19 Series II, and perhaps Magnum engines with the KT-series flywheel installed, except generator engines. Replaces points and condenser. This high performance ignition system have been thoroughly tested under extreme conditions, and produces a stable and very strong spark, even with the stock OEM canister ignition coil, allowing the engine to start quickly, idle smoothly and rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or misfire to produce more power. This revolutionizes the ignition system for the opposed twin cylinder Kohler engines! With points (and condenser) ignition, the factory setting for the timing on these engines is 23º BTDC. Being the points is operated off the camshaft, being there's slight free-play/clearance between the gear teeth on the camshaft and crankshaft (which is normal), the timing can fluctuate a few degrees. And sometimes the lobe for the points pushrod on the cam will wear, which will make setting the timing at full 23º BTDC impossible. (Both of these are confirmed in the official Kohler KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II service manual.) Either of these will cause the engine to lose power. And with a worn points lobe, the entire engine will need to be completely disassembled to replace the camshaft. This custom-made electronic ignition system maintains the timing at 23º BTDC at all times because it operates off the flywheel, which is driven by the crankshaft. It works the same as crank trigger ignition. With this electronic ignition system, the engine will run smoother and actually produce more noticeable power. It's very reliable, works flawlessly and, may outlast and extend the life of the engine. The OEM Kohler [4.0 ohm] twin cylinder canister ignition coil works excellent with this ignition module/sensor to produce a very strong spark. To prevent burning up the PerTronix Ignitor module, it MUST be used with a coil having a minimum of 3.0 ohm resistance. The ignition points can be removed and the points pushrod hole can be plugged with a short self-tapping 1/4" bolt, Allen set screw or clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant.

Kit Includes: Module/sensor fastened to the mounting bracket, two 1-1/2" length grade bolts w/lock washers, trigger screw w/magnet and rubber cushioning washer (the rubber washer prevents the magnet from breaking when the screw is tightened), and two Autolite 26 spark plugs. Use with the OEM off/ignition/start key switch and canister ignition coil. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.)

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS of the Trigger Screw for KT17 first design, KT17 Series II, KT19 first design and KT19 Series II engines, and perhaps Magnum engines with the KT-series flywheel installed -

Use a Sharpie metallic silver permanent marker to locate and install the trigger screw w/magnet and rubber cushioning washer in a specific location on the left side of the flat spot on the flywheel (see the picture to the right) in exact alignment with the center of the ignition module/sensor when the S mark on the flywheel is in exact alignment with the roll pin on the cylinder (23º BTDC). The screw hole must be professionally drilled and tapped to accept the supplied 6-32 UNC trigger screw. Secure the screw threads with high strength liquid threadlocker (Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent), and tighten the screw just until the rubber washer begin to bulge. The screw head is magnetized to trigger the spark. There is no need to remove the flywheel to make this happen. IMPORTANT: The module/sensor is activated by the South pole of the magnet, so do not remove the magnet from the screw. And use caution when handling rare earth/neodymium magnets. They are very brittle and can break easily when snapped onto something or when the screw is overtightened. FYI - Store a container of liquid threadlocker or Super Glue upright and not laying flat. The capped tip will not dry out and clog when stored upright.

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS of the module/sensor specifically for KT17 first design and KT19 first design engines. This option can also be used for the KT17 Series II and KT19 Series II engines, and perhaps Magnum engines with the KT-series flywheel installed. More detailed picture(s) showing this coming soon.

  1. Install the trigger screw w/magnet and rubber cushioning washer on the flywheel as described above.
  2. Being there are no two bosses on the #1 cylinder (right side of engine when facing the flywheel) of the KT17 first design and KT19 first design engines, use the side of the valve spring compartment casting on the #1 cylinder facing the flywheel to mount the two posts/supports for the mounting plate with the ignition module/sensor. See the [mock up]picture to the right.->
  3. On the #1 cylinder, remove the crankcase breather assembly and plug the crankcase breather vent hole leading into the crankcase.
  4. On the side of the valve spring compartment, locate in the general vicinity where to drill and tap two 10-24 UNC screw holes for mounting the two posts/supports with the mounting plate and ignition module/sensor. There is no need to remove the flywheel to do this. See the [mock up] picture to the right.->
  5. Thoroughly clear out the metal cuttings from inside the valve spring compartment with 150± PSI compressed air. Failure to do this could cause excessive wear to the internal engine parts! Be sure to use eye protection! Then remove the plug from the crankcase vent hole.
  6. After fastening the two posts/supports with the mounting plate and ignition module/sensor to the side of the valve spring compartment, set the clearance between the module/sensor and trigger screw w/magnet and rubber cushioning washer at .010"-.050" with a paper, plastic or brass feeler gauge, then securely tighten the two 3/16" screws with lock washers to the side of the valve spring compartment. Slowly rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand to check that the screw doesn't make contact with module/sensor. Do not allow the screw in the flywheel make contact with the module/sensor at any time because it could get damaged!
  7. Simple two wire hook-up: contact the RED wire on the module to the positive (+) terminal on the ignition coil, and connect the BLACK wire to the negative (–) terminal on the coil. The module/sensor is grounded through the engine. FYI - This module/sensor is diode-protected, and will NOT burn up if the wires are connected in reverse to the coil with power supplied. (Distinctive A-1 Miller's feature.) But the module/sensor will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle switch to power the ignition system.

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS of the module/sensor specifically for KT17 Series II and KT19 Series II engines, and perhaps Magnum engines with the KT-series flywheel installed - More detailed picture(s) showing this coming soon.

  1. Install the trigger screw w/magnet and rubber cushioning washer on the flywheel as described above.
  2. Use the two bosses on the #1 cylinder to mount the bracket with the ignition module/sensor. Being there are no bolt holes in the bosses, the center of each boss must be professionally drilled and tapped to accept the supplied 1/4-20 UNC x 1-1/2" length grade 8 bolts with split lock washers. IMPORTANT! Drill only 3/4" deep; do not drill all the way through the cylinder wall! To guarantee the 3/4" depth, use a drill stop set at the 3/4" depth. A drill stop is a 1/4" I.D. shaft collar w/locking set screw securely fastened on a 13/64" or #7 size drill bit. Click here to learn how to professionally cut new threads. There is no need to remove the flywheel to do this. See the [mock up] animated picture to the right.->
  3. After mounting the bracket with the module/sensor, set the clearance between the module/sensor and trigger screw w/magnet and rubber cushioning washer at .010"-.050" with a paper, plastic or brass feeler gauge, then securely tighten the two 1/4" bolts in the bosses. Slowly rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand to check that the screw doesn't make contact with module/sensor. Do not allow the screw in the flywheel make contact with the module/sensor at any time because it could get damaged!
  4. Simple two wire hook-up: contact the RED wire on the module to the positive (+) terminal on the ignition coil, and connect the BLACK wire to the negative (–) terminal on the coil. The module/sensor is grounded through the engine. FYI - This module/sensor is diode-protected, and will NOT burn up if the wires are connected in reverse to the coil with power supplied. (Distinctive A-1 Miller's feature.) But the module/sensor will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle switch to power the ignition system.


Replacement PerTronix Ignitor hall effect module/sensor with black and red wires. IMPORTANT: Must be used with a minimum 3.0 ohm coil or module will burn up. Click here to test the ohms resistance in a coil. FYI - This module/sensor is diode-protected, and will NOT burn up if the wires are connected in reverse with power supplied. (Distinctive A-1 Miller's feature.) But the module/sensor will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle switch to power the ignition system. Use with small magnet in aluminum rotating disc or small steel screw w/ring magnet (below) fastened on edge of flywheel to trigger the spark. $75.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


Trigger Screw w/Magnet and Rubber Cushioning Washer. The rubber washer prevents the magnet from breaking when the screw is tightened. Fasten on edge of flywheel to trigger the spark. Screw threads: 6-32 UNC. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the parts or items in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Return to previous paragraph, section or website] [Top of Page]


COMING SOON! Easy to Install Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit for Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582. (Posted 6/17/21)


100% Maintenance-Free Custom-Made Crank-Trigger Electronic Ignition Systems That Operate Off the PTO End of a Competition Pulling Small Engine - Eliminates Points and Condenser

Be Ahead of the Competition with 21st Century Technology Using 100% Reliable Digital Electronic Ignition! Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the parts or items in this website. [Top of Page]

FYI - I can install a Custom-Made crank-trigger electronic ignition system and/or rewire your lawn & garden tractor, equipment or garden pulling tractor so all the electrical accessories will work and the engine will start quickly every time. I have the knowledge, skills, all the tools and parts necessary to perform a quality job. I've rewired many customer's lawn & garden tractor/equipment or garden pulling tractor with great results. If you're interested, Click or tap here for my phone numbers, address and directions to A-1 Miller's shop. - Brian Miller

A new way to revolutionize the ignition system on virtually any small gas engine! Virtually trouble- and maintenance-free, and water-proof. These ignition modules/sensors is a small, lightweight, compact and completely self-contained electronic ignition system built with the latest state-of-the-art engineering with the use of microelectronics. Fits entirely on the engine block; no ignition box and additional wiring to clutter the engine compartment because the electronic ignition control module and pickup coil/sensor are contained in the same sealed casing. The Dynatek Dyna S module/sensor produce a stable and very strong spark. They will allow the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly, rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or misfire and produce more power.

The Dynatek Dyna S module/sensor operates on 12-1/2 to 15 volts negative ground, and must be used with a minimum 3.0 ohm coil or module will burn up. Using a coil with less than total of 3.0 ohm of primary resistance for a long period of time will cause the module to overheat and the engine may misfire until it cools down, or the module/sensor might fail prematurely. A metal conductor coil-to-spark plug wire, and non-resistor/copper core spark plug should be used. If the voltage drops below the minimum requirement for either module/sensor, the engine may idle well, but not rev up, or the engine may run erratic. Either module/sensor can be used with a standard-output/stock or high-output/performance ignition coil, as long as the coil has a 3.0 ohm internal primary resistor, or a ballast resistor is connected that totals 3.0 ohm of resistance. These module/sensors should not be used with magneto-type armature ignition coils, being magneto coils have a 1.0 ohm internal primary resistor. A metal core conductor coil-to-spark plug wire can be used with either module/sensor.

These maintenance-free crank-trigger electronic ignition setups have been thoroughly tested and proven very reliable for general lawn and work, and all classes of single and twin cylinder competition pulling engines. One module/sensor is needed for an opposed twin cylinder engine, and two modules/sensors spaced precisely at 90º apart are required for V-twin engines. These are the same ignition used by professional pullers everywhere. Reliable at high RPMs, the Dynatek Dyna S or PerTronix Ignitor modules provides unlimited RPM. They will allow the ignition system to operate at the speed of electricity (which can be anywhere from about 50% to 99% of the speed of light, depending upon the quality of the electronic components and wiring connections).

Spark occurs when the magnet embedded in an aluminum locking set screw collar, which is much like an automotive reluctor ring, that's fastened on the crankshaft's PTO end passes the module/sensor. These sensors/modules packs a lot of punch and allows the ignition system operate at 100% efficiency for a stronger spark. When wired correctly, it's normal for the flywheel- and crank-trigger ignition systems to make a spark when first powered up. And if it makes a spark as the sensor passes the metal target object, then the ignition system is working as it should.

Dynatek Dyna S Maintenance-Free Crank-Trigger Electronic Ignition Installation Instructions -

A-1 Miller's universal flat mounting plate can be adapted for use on various makes and models of one or two cylinder (twin opposing cylinders) engines by drilling new mounting holes. And being there are so many different bolt patterns on the PTO end of Kohler and other makes and models of engines, these are not a simple "one kit fits all" bolt-on ignition kit. Therefore, customer will need to locate and drill holes in the mounting plate in alignment with the bolt holes on the PTO end of the engine block. If there are no bolt hole(s) on the PTO end of the block, they will need to be drilled and tapped. Minimum of 1/4" bolts can be used. Locate and drill (machine) slotted adjustment holes in the mounting plate, fasten plate to PTO end of engine block. And then drill and cut 4-40 NC threads in the mounting plate for positioning/clearance of the module/sensor clearance to the locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet. Additional spacing of modules/sensor may be required so magnet will be aligned with the center of the sensor on various applications. Air gap/clearance between the module/sensor and locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet is .010"-.050". module/sensor may not operate or engine may misfire if gap is wider than .060". When mounting the GM 4-pin HEI module, always fasten it with thermal paste (to dissipate the operating heat) on a clean, flat aluminum plate with plenty of cool, circulating air to dissipate the heat while in operation. NOTE: Do not allow module/sensor to make contact with locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet while engine is running! Click HERE for custom-made electronic ignition kits that operate off the flywheel end of the engine. These can be used for ordinary lawn & garden engines or stock competition pulling engines.


Designed Specifically for Single Cylinder Garden Pulling Tractors, the Self-Contained 12 Volt High Performance Dynatek Dyna S Module/Sensor is Incorporated with a Durable High Energy Compact Epoxy-Encapsulated Armature Ignition Coil , Which is Built with the Latest State-of-the-Art Engineering. Thoroughly tested and proven to be very reliable. Self-contained and very compact. Each kit includes: module/sensor, coil, bracket and locking set screw collar w/embedded trigger magnet. No need for a separate/remote-mounted ignition coil and additional wiring. The high energy ignition coil is fastened above the Dynatek Dyna S module/sensor on the same aluminum mounting plate. Customer may have to drill and tap the block to mount the crank-trigger or modify the bracket if necessary. Each ignition kit comes prewired with one or two simple wire connection(s): Connect the RED wire to the ignition switch (battery positive (+) post), and connect the BLACK wire to the self-grounding killswitch (if equipped), or snip off the black wire if not needed. Set the air gap/clearance between sensor and magnet in locking set screw collar at .010"-.050", and set spark plug gap at .035". Please specify diameter of crankshaft PTO end for locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet. Most common crankshaft PTO end diameters are 1" and 1-1/8", but 3/4", 1-1/4", 1-3/8", 1-7/16" and 1-1/2" are rare. Most billet steel crankshafts have a 1-1/2" diameter PTO end (raised shoulder). Please specify diameter of crankshaft PTO end for locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet. Made in USA. Picture and video of each product coming soon.

Wiring Directions for the Module/Sensor Shown Below: Connect the BLACK wire on module to the negative (–) terminal on the ignition coil (and to nothing else), and connect the RED wire on the module to the positive (+) terminal on the coil and to the ignition switch , which is connected to the positive (+) battery post. FYI - The module is diode-protected, and will NOT burn up if the wires are connected in reverse with power supplied. (Distinctive A-1 Miller's feature.) But the module/sensor will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle switch to power the ignition system.

Dynatek Dyna S Ignition Kit and System Shown Above for a Single Cylinder Engine. These ignition systems works flawlessly and may outlast the life of the engine. These ignition systems operate off the PTO end of the crankshaft and is mainly for competition pulling engines that have nothing on the PTO end of the crankshaft. NOTE: Slotted mounting holes will be machined in the ignition plate. If the bolt holes in the PTO end of the block don't match the ones in the plate or if bolt holes are not present, then new bolt holes will need to be drilled and tapped in the engine block. Can be used on Kohler 10-16hp single or opposed twin cylinder horizontal shaft engines. Set the clearance between the module and locking collar at .010"-.050". IMPORTANT - Gently rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand to check and see that the module does not make contact with the locking collar. Do not allow the module make contact with the locking collar while the engine is running! FYI - The module is diode-protected, and will NOT burn up if the wires are connected in reverse with power supplied. (Distinctive A-1 Miller's feature.) But the module will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle switch to power the ignition system.


Self-Contained Crank Trigger Electronic Ignition System for Kohler Engine Models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, M18 and M20 Competition Pulling Engines Only -

Self-Contained Crank Trigger Electronic Ignition System for Kohler Engine Models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, M18 and M20 Competition Pulling Engines Only. Being the aftermarket and OEM Magnum M18 and M20 solid state electronic armature ignition coils will hold up to around 3,600 RPM, when used at higher RPMs, the secondary windings within the coil tend to overheat, causing the coil to eventually fail. But this custom-made ignition system allows the engine to rev to its maximum without failing. It works flawlessly and may outlast the life of the engine. It operates off the PTO end of the engine and is mainly for competition pulling engines that have nothing on the PTO end of the crankshaft. The high energy dual-spark plug wire compact armature ignition coil is fastened above the Dynatek Dyna S module on a sturdy aluminum mounting plate; cleans up the engine compartment. IMPORTANT: When ordering, please indicate the bolt hole spacing (measurement) for mounting the angle bracket to the rear closure plate on the PTO end of the engine. Or customer can machine their own adjustable slotted mounting holes. This high performance ignition system have been thoroughly tested under extreme conditions, and produces a stable and very strong spark, even with the compact armature ignition coil, allowing the engine to start quickly, idle smoothly and rev up to full speed. The Dynatek Dyna S module/sensor is triggered by a small magnet embedded in an aluminum locking set screw collar that's fastened on the crankshaft. Use this setup for durability when the solid state armature ignition coil keeps failing for no apparent reason. Simple one wire hook-up; RED wire on module/sensor connects to 12 volt ignition switch (battery positive (+) post). This ignition system is grounded through the engine. Kit includes: Dynatek Dyna S module/sensor and high energy dual wire epoxy-encapsulated armature ignition coil with two molded-in metal core conductor coil-to-spark plug wires and 90º spark plug terminals/boots fastened on aluminum mounting plate, and small magnet embedded in an aluminum locking set screw collar, and new battery ignition OFF-IGNITION-START key switch (do not reuse OEM Magnum solid state ignition key switch with this system) or momentary push button switch (to crank the engine), OFF-ON toggle switch or an OFF-ON key switch (for security purposes; to power the ignition) and fully insulated male and female slip-on spade crimp-type wire connectors (to easily connect/disconnect the ignition system to/from the power source). Remove the OEM solid state armature ignition coil and aluminum bracket. They will serve no purpose with this kit. Use with metal core spark plugs gapped at .030" each. Coil can withstand high engine vibrations. Please specify diameter of crankshaft PTO end for the locking set screw collar when ordering. Click here to learn how to set the ignition timing on a KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, M18 or M20 engine with crank trigger ignition. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller because nobody else advertise this kind of ignition system.


Replacement Dynatek Dyna S hall effect module/sensor with black and red wires. FYI - This module is diode-protected, and will NOT burn up if the wires are connected in reverse to the coil with power supplied. (Distinctive A-1 Miller's feature.) But the module will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle switch to power the ignition system. Use with small magnet in aluminum rotating disc to trigger the spark. $60.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the parts or items in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Return to previous paragraph, section or website] [Top of Page]



How to Check for Spark and Set the Timing for the Dynatek Dyna S (or PerTronix Ignitor) module/sensors - After either setup is installed on the engine and power is supplied, simply rotate the locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet (loose) on the crankshaft back and forth by hand. Each time the embedded detector/trigger magnet passes the module/sensor, spark should occur. NOTE: Do not use a battery charger alone for power to perform this test. Battery chargers constantly switch between high and low voltage at 60 cycles per second, and the module sees this as the ignition being switched on and off, resulting in a continuous array of sparks.

A simple and precise way to set the ignition timing STATICALLY (engine not running) for either module/sensor -

  1. Place a mark (line) with a permanent ink marker (Marks A Lot or Sharpie) or a flat chisel on the side of the locking collar next to the embedded magnet. This is to indicate where the magnet is located from the side of the collar.
  2. Align the timing mark on the flywheel in alignment with the raised boss on the bearing plate where you want the timing to be set.
  3. Align the mark on the collar with center of the module/sensor with the timing mark on the flywheel and raised boss.
  4. Tighten the set screw in the collar and the timing will be correctly set.

How to accurately set the ignition timing STATICALLY for the Dynatek Dyna S, PerTronix Ignitor and Inductive 3-Wire Proximity module/sensor - (This is also how to test if the module/sensors or the ignition system is functioning or not.)

  1. Connect the wires correctly for either module/sensor as specified above with a fully charged 12 volt battery connected in the circuit. NOTE: Do not use a battery charger alone to perform this test. Battery chargers constantly switch between high and low voltage at 60 cycles per second, and the module sees this as the ignition being switched on and off resulting in a continuous, constant array of sparks.
  2. Connect a battery-powered test light or multimeter [set on the 12 volt reading] between the negative (–) coil terminal and engine/chassis ground.
  3. Rotate the crankshaft to position the flywheel or starter pulley with the desired timing mark aligned with the timing pointer or indicator on the engine. This is close to where the timing needs to be set.
  4. With the Allen set screw loose in the locking ring, again...
  5. Tighten the Allen set screw in the collar on the crankshaft. The ignition timing is now set close to where it needs to be.
  6. Something cool to show off: To make a 12 volt in-dash indicator light or LED flash while cranking the engine and illuminate while the engine is running, for the Dyna S, Ignitor modules or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor connected to the HEI, Chrysler or Ford module, connect the light or LED to the negative (–) coil terminal and engine/chassis ground. The LED may shine bright, but the light will be dimly lit. The light or LED will not effect the performance of the ignition system whatsoever. It'll also let you know if the ignition system is working or not.

How to precisely set the ignition timing DYNAMICALLY (engine running) using an automotive inductive timing light for either module/sensor. (This is the most accurate way to set the timing.) NOTE: Timing can be checked, but not set while the engine is running! Do not allow module/sensor to make contact with the locking set screw collar w/embedded magnet while engine is running! -

  1. Start the engine, shine the timing light on the timing mark on the flywheel or starter pulley in relation with the pointer on the engine block to see where the timing needs to be set. NOTE: Do not use a battery charger alone to perform this test. Battery chargers constantly switch between high and low voltage at 60 cycles per second, and the module sees this as the ignition being switched on and off resulting in a continuous, constant array of sparks.
  2. If the timing is not set correctly, shut off the engine and loosen the Allen set screw in the locking collar, slightly rotate crankshaft by hand one way or the other to advance or retard the timing, and position the locking collar with the magnet or screw head centered with the sensor in the module, and tighten the Allen set screw.
  3. Start the engine again, shine the timing light on the timing mark on the flywheel or starter pulley in relation with the pointer on the engine block to see if the timing is set where it needs to be.
  4. Repeat steps 1, 2 and 3 if necessary until the timing is set exactly where it needs to be, and securely tighten the Allen set screw.
  5. No further bore.) OEM are required.


Magnetic pickup coils and round-shaped proximity sensors are very sensitive to mechanical damage (and electrical damage if connected wrong). For magnetic pickup coils, set the air gap/clearance from the detectable target (screw, pin or small raised area on the rotating disc) at .010"-.060" with a brass, plastic, business card, poster board, stainless steel (anything non-magnetic) feeler gauge. And being 3-wire inductive proximity sensors have a farther detection range, set the air gap/clearance at .010"-.188". If the gap is wider than .188" (3/16") with either sensor, the ignition system may not produce a spark or the engine could misfire at higher RPM. To prevent the possibility of an out of time spark, the detectable target needs to be a minimum of 3/16" higher than or above the circumference surface of a steel or cast iron rotating disc or flywheel. Direct metal contact with either sensor could damage them. When in doubt if a sensor is mechanically damaged, look at the end of it with the strong magnifying glass to see any damage. If it is damaged, it needs to be replaced. A magnetic pickup coil can be tested with a digital multimeter set on 200m DC, with the negative lead of the meter on the white wire of the pickup coil and positive lead on the black wire, then pass a small steel screw or bolt over the end of the magnetic pickup coil. If the meter shows a reading, the pickup coil is in good condition.

Normally Open 3-Wire Round-Shaped Inductive Proximity Sensors for crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger ignition. Recommended for use with the Chrysler and Ford electronic ignition control module/units. Detects head of small ferrous metal (steel) screw or bolt fastened to rotating disc or flywheel to generate power in sensor. Spark will occur when aligned with head of steel screw (Kohler. etc.) or pin (Tecumseh) in rotating disc or flywheel. Wide operating temperature range. epoxy-encapsulated, mechanically rugged. Impervious to dirt, oil and water. No maintenance required. Sensor is capable of powering crank-trigger or flywheel-trigger ignition and digital tachometer at the same time. Durable metal shielded threads with two stainless steel thin jam nuts and three, 10 foot long wire leads. Dimensions of each item below: 15/32" (12mm) diameter x 1-3/8" thread length. Some proximity sensors have an LED (Light Emitting Diode) on the rear of unit. If the proximity sensor is wired incorrectly, the LED will stay on and go off when activated. Being 3-wire inductive proximity sensors have a farther detection distance, set the air gap/clearance at .010" - .188". Direct metal contact with either sensor will damage them. And if the gap is wider than specified, the engine could misfire at higher RPM. To prevent the possibility of an out of time spark, the detectable target needs to be a minimum of 3/16" higher than or above the circumference surface of a steel or cast iron rotating disc or flywheel. Click or tap here for wiring diagrams.


Magnetic Pickup Coils for A-1 Miller's flywheel- or crank-trigger electronic ignition. All magnetic pickup coils are Normally Open. Either can be used with the high-output/performance GM 4-pin HEI module w/1.0 ohm coil, or with the Chrysler or Ford electronic ignition control module/units. Detects head of small ferrous metal (steel) screw or bolt fastened to rotating disc or flywheel to generate power in magnetic pickup coil. Install screw head extended minimum 3/16" higher than or above the surface of the flywheel to prevent an out of time spark occurrence by the flywheel itself. Wide operating temperature range. epoxy-encapsulated, mechanically rugged. Impervious to dirt, oil and water. No maintenance required. Self-generating power. Durable metal shielded threads with two jam nuts. Please specify size when ordering. Can be used with a steel bracket without interference of magnetism. By the way - The magnetic pickup coils below work exactly the same. There is absolutely no difference in performance. Set the air gap/clearance from the detectable target (screw, pin or small raised area on the rotating disc) at .010"-.020" with a brass, plastic, business card, poster board or anything non-magnetic feeler gauge. Click or tap here for wiring diagrams.

Detectable Trigger Screws for Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition. Install on the edge of an aluminum or steel locking set screw collar, disc or flywheel when using a magnetic pickup coil or 3-wire inductive proximity sensor. The curvature or dome shaped heads of button- and Phillips-head screws makes them ideal for use as a detectable target on a trigger disc or flywheel. Secure in place with a split lock washer and/or high strength liquid threadlocker (Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent). FYI - Store a container of liquid threadlocker or Super Glue upright and not laying flat. The capped tip will not dry out and clog when stored upright.


High Quality GM 4-Pin HEI Ignition Control Module w/packet of thermal paste (to dissipate the operating heat). Use with a high-output hall effect or inductive proximity sensor. Virtually any ignition coil regardless of the internal primary resistor can be used. Best to be used with a metal core conductor coil-to-spark plug wire and non-resistor/copper core spark plug gapped at .025" or .035" (depending on size of coil) for best performance. After thorough research, this particular HEI module that I offer is the only one that will work correctly with the high-output cube-shaped proximity sensor to maintain the ignition timing and produce an extremely strong spark, allowing the engine to start quickly, idle smoothly and rev up to full governed RPM. When mounting the GM 4-pin HEI module, always fasten it with thermal paste on a clean, flat aluminum plate with plenty of cool, circulating air to dissipate the heat and cool the unit while in operation. All GM HEI modules that I offer for sale have been tested personally by Brian Miller on my Kohler test engine to insure proper operation. Requires one (1) 3/16"/.187"/2.8mm and three (3) #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors. Actual weight of each module: 1.1 oz. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 278903. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

High Quality High-Output/Performance GM 4-Pin HEI Ignition Control Module w/packet of thermal paste (to dissipate the operating heat). This particular module connected to a magnetic pickup coil (below Ê) works excellent with a stock ignition coil that have a maximum 1.0 ohm internal primary resistor, metal core conductor coil-to-spark plug wire and non-resistor/copper core spark plug gapped at .025, which produce a strong spark, allowing the engine to rev up to full speed. When mounting the GM 4-pin HEI module, fasten it with thermal paste on a clean, flat aluminum plate with plenty of cool, circulating air to dissipate the heat and cool the unit while in operation. Requires one (1) 3/16"/.187"/2.8mm and three (3) #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors. Actual weight of each module: 1.1 oz. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 278903. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (Limited supply.)


3/8" Magnetic Pickup Coil w/Mounting Adapter to Convert from Breakerless Ignition or Points and Condenser and Upgrade to Flywheel-Trigger Electronic Ignition. Fits Kohler K-series K241-K361 engines with the 9" ring gear flywheel w/projection (hump) or OEM protruding bolt head on flywheel or 3/4" wide area (to install trigger screw) and large bearing plate with the two bosses for mounting this item, as pictured above. When mounting the GM 4-pin HEI module, fasten it with thermal paste on a clean, flat aluminum plate with plenty of cool, circulating air to dissipate the heat and cool the unit while in operation. Includes two 10-24 UNC Allen socket head mounting screws and split lock washers. If they're not already present, new 10-24 UNC threads will need to be drilled and tapped in the two raised bosses in the bearing plate to mount the bracket for the sensor's bracket. NOTE: Set air gap/clearance from projection (hump) or OEM protruding bolt head on flywheel at .010"-.060" with a brass, plastic, business card, poster board or anything non-magnetic feeler gauge. Ignition timing will be fixed at 20º BTDC. Click or tap here for wiring diagrams. An original, ingenious, thoroughly researched and innovative concept invented by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this for use on a small engine. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.)


Now the ordinary/stock 4-pin GM HEI electronic ignition control module lives up to its name, High Energy Ignition! When used on a small engine, in order for an ordinary/stock 4-pin HEI module allow the engine rev up to full RPM, it must be used with the cube-shaped 3-wire inductive proximity sensor, and can be used with virtually any ignition coil, regardless of the ohm resistance or voltage output. A metal core conductor coil-to-spark plug wire and non-resistor/copper core spark plug should be used. Set spark plug gap at .035". Sensor is also capable of powering an HEI crank-trigger ignition and a digital tachometer at the same time. This concept revolutionizes the use of this small, compact and versatile module! This is a thoroughly tested, researched and proven reliable ignition system invented by Brian Miller for ordinary lawn and garden engines and competition pulling engines. And when mounting the GM 4-pin HEI module, always fasten it with thermal paste (to dissipate the operating heat) on a clean, flat aluminum plate with plenty of cool, circulating air to dissipate the heat while in operation. Click or tap here for wiring diagrams. IMPORTANT - The wire that comes from the stator under the flywheel for Kohler Trigger Module or Tecumseh Solid State Electronic Ignition Module generates about 250 volts (serious) while the engine is running at full governed speed. Do not touch this wire (terminal) with one bare hand and the engine itself with your other hand while the engine is running! It is not needed for any of A-1 Miller's crank-trigger ignition systems. So snip off this wire or tape up the terminal to prevent a short circuit or electrocution. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]


New High Quality Chrysler / Dodge / Plymouth Electronic Ignition Control Module/Unit for flywheel-trigger electronic ignition. Operates with 12 volts DC negative ground Requires a minimum 1.2 ohm ballast resistor to prevent burning up module. Click or tap here to learn how to check the Ohm resistance in a ballast resistor. This module can be used with the magnetic pickup coil or proximity sensor and virtually any ignition coil, regardless of the ohm resistance or voltage output, and will allow the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly, rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or misfire and it'll produce more power. Actual weight of module: 14 oz. Click or tap here for wiring diagrams.

New 1.6 Ohm Ballast Resistor for use with Chrysler module (listed above È) to prevent burning up module.


New High Quality Ford / Mercury / Lincoln electronic ignition control module/Unit for crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition. Operates operates with 12 volts DC negative ground. Requires no ballast resistor. This module can be used with the magnetic pickup coil or proximity sensor and virtually any ignition coil, regardless of the ohm resistance or voltage output, regardless of the ohm resistance, and will allow the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly, rev up to full RPM with no hesitation or misfire and produce more power. Actual weight of module: 1 lb. 7 oz. Click or tap here for wiring diagrams.


High Quality Inductive Wireless Handheld Small Engine Tachometer. A tachometer is required in setting the correct RPMs (normally 3,200 or 3,600 maximum for small engines) of an engine to prevent over-revving and possible damage to the engine or dangerous flywheel explosion. For gas/spark ignite engines only. Works with magneto and battery-powered ignition systems. Very accurate. This handheld analog tachometer works great for checking/setting the RPM on various small engines in the shop, and/or for checking/setting the RPM [tech] on stock governed competition pulling engines. Hold sensor (antenna) close to coil-to-spark plug wire for reading. Operates off a self-contained replaceable 9 volt battery. Has built-in battery voltage check. Reads up to 5,000 RPM on the low scale, and 15,000 RPM on the high scale.


High Quality Inductive Small Engine Tachometer/Hour Meter. A tachometer is required in setting the correct RPMs (normally 3,200 or 3,600 maximum for small engines) of an engine to prevent over-revving and possible damage to the engine or dangerous flywheel explosion. Very accurate. Can be hand-held to temporarily set engine RPM or can be surface-mounted and secured with two screws to monitor engine RPM at all times. Large 3/8 inch LCD display. Works with all spark ignition engines by selecting engine type using S1 and S2 buttons. Works with magneto and battery-powered ignition systems. If tachometer does not turn on automatically as soon as engine starts, press and hold the two buttons at the same time. Instructions included. Tachometer reads up to 99,999 RPM. Hour meter reads up to 9999:59 hours/minutes then resets to Zero. Programmable maintenance hour setting with service icon, a reminder when to change oil or other service. Can be manually reset to Zero hours. Programmable maintenance hour setting with service icon, a reminder when to change oil or other service. Easy installation: Single wire wraps around spark plug wire and secured with two supplied nylon zip-ties. No wire terminal connections required. Dimensions: 2" wide x 1-3/4" depth x 3/4" height.


High Quality Digital Tachometer/Proximity Sensor Kits. A tachometer is required in setting the correct RPMs (normally 3,200 or 3,600 maximum for small engines) of an engine to prevent from over-revving and possible damage to the engine or dangerous flywheel explosion. Choice of a RED or BLUE numeric display. Will work with single- or twin-cylinder small engines or multi-cylinder automotive engines, gas or diesel. The great thing about this type of tachometer is it needs no setup. It displays accurate RPMs as soon as the engine cranks over to start. Displays up to 9,999 RPM. Very accurate. Tachometer returns to zero [0000] when engine is shut down. Operates totally independent of the ignition system. Can be used for lawn & garden equipment or competition pulling engines. Designed to be permanently mounted to monitor engine RPM at all times. Tachometer can be mounted in dashboard, instrument panel, engine control panel, flywheel shroud, etc. This precision digital tachometer operates with external power and on the same principle as A-1 Miller's flywheel- or crank-trigger ignition systems with a proximity sensor to detect the target, which can be a small ferrous steel screw or pin, or magnet in a rotating disc on the crankshaft or on/in flywheel. A sturdy steel or aluminum bracket will need to be fabricated by customer to mount the sensor in close proximity of the detectable target. Set air gap/clearance at .010"-.188". Tachometer works with 8-24 volts DC, proximity sensor works with 6-36 volts DC. Dimensions for mounting hole for tachometer: 3" wide x 1-17/32" wide. Tachometer measures 1" in depth. Dimensions of proximity sensor: 15/32" diameter x 1-3/8" thread length. Wiring Instructions: #1 wire on tachometer connects to brown wire on proximity sensor and ignition switch (12 volt power), #2 wire on tachometer connects to blue wire on proximity sensor and engine/chassis ground (battery negative (–) post), and #5 wire on tachometer connects to black wire on (either) proximity sensor. Wires #3 and #4 connects to nothing. Wiring is the same for the hall effect and inductive proximity sensors. Some proximity sensors have an LED (Light Emitting Diode) on the rear of unit. If the proximity sensor is wired incorrectly, the LED will illuminate within the target. Click or tap here for YouTube videos to see how well this tachometer works. Cannot be wired in conjunction with the Dynatek Dyna S or PerTronix Ignitor ignition modules. This tachometer must be wired separately or wiring can be integrated with A-1 Miller's crank-trigger ignition system that use a proximity sensor.


A-1 Miller's Computerized Stuska Water Brake Engine Dynamometer (Dyno) Service with DPM Data Logger Software to Test Horsepower and Torque! | [Top of Page]

For performance testing of 10-16hp single cylinder Kohler stock or competition pulling engines at speeds up to 12,000 RPM. 100% accurate, customers can rent dyno time, fine tune and make adjustments or changes to their engines to gain maximum horsepower and torque, and print-out the results so their tractor(s) will be truly competitive on the track. With an engine dyno, the puller can adjust their engine to get maximum horsepower and torque, and gear their tractor appropriately to have an advantage over the competition. NOTE: A fresh-built engine may not produce full power until it's broke-in. This is when the valves wear-in with the seats to completely seal in the compression. The rings will likely hold the compression, but the valves may leak slightly until they wear into the seats. This is normal for all engines and may take several hours or pulls to happen, then the valves will be able to hold full compression. Lots of pullers tell A-1 Miller's after I've built their engines that it seems to pull stronger every time they pull it.

Engine Dyno Rental Fee: $50.00 per hour run time from the moment the engine is started. No setup fee for Cub Cadet engines with a 3- or 6-pin/stud clutch driver. An adapter may need to be needed or fabricated for other makes and models of engines. Only engines with the narrow base oil pan can be tested. Engines with the wide base (tall) oil pan cannot be tested at this time. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]


Coming Soon - Detailed Illustrated Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back and Self-Propelled Garden Tractor Pulling Sled. FYI - I have lots of work to do in my shop and I work on my sled plans in my spare time. As soon as my plans with an inventory list of parts to use are perfected, I'll post the update in my websites with prices of the plans. Remember - Perfection takes time. If it's worth having, it's worth waiting for. Also, I plan to acquire a bigger shop and may build high quality garden tractor pulling sleds in the future to offer for sale. Please call 573-256-0313 (shop) or 573-881-7229 (cell; text or voice message), or email pullingtractor@aol.com if interested in purchasing the plans or a sled. - Brian Miller


If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance and support, please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine parts, entire engine, transaxle, transmission, entire garden tractor, etc. for rebuilding and/or repairing. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're planning to relocate our business to other property with a bigger and better shop so we can hire more help and provide many more high quality parts and professional services.) [Return To Previous Paragraph, Section or Website]

Payment Options and We Ship to Canada and Worldwide
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S. territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground or equivalent services. We try to keep our shipping cost to customers within reason. Therefore, we don't ship our products in a fancy-looking package with our company name and/or logo on it because most customers will just toss it in the trash after they remove the contents. And being there is no USPS tracking number outside the US, all I can do is make sure I write your address correctly on the customs form and on your package.

My websites are not set up to process orders and accept payments. Therefore, for payment options, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total amount for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge), Western Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram Money Transfers. If paying with a credit/debit card, please call me at either number below. To make a payment to me through PayPal, please click this link: https://www.paypal.me/PullingTractor. Please use the "Friends and Family" option, or add 3% to the total amount to cover PayPal's processing surcharge. Or to make a payment to me (pullingtractor@aol.com) in the US through the Venmo app, please click this link: venmo.com. Or use Cash App to make a payment to me (pullingtractor@aol.com). And be sure to mention in PayPal, Venmo or Cash App a description of what the payment is for with your full name, postal address, phone number and email address. If sending a money order or cashier's check, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete mailing address, phone number, email address and a description of what the payment is for. I'll make a note of your order when I have all your information, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send everything on your list to you as soon as I have the parts in stock after I receive your payment.



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