Improving
the Drive Clutch Assembly in a Cub Cadet
Please check out: HOT ROD GARDEN TRACTOR PULLERS ASSOCIATION |
Improving
the Drive Clutch Assembly in a Cub Cadet
Please check out: HOT ROD GARDEN TRACTOR PULLERS ASSOCIATION |
On the direct-drive Cub Cadet, power from the engine is transferred to the transaxle through the clutch and driveshaft assembly. If the clutch is severely worn or if stock (OEM) parts may slip and little power or torque will be transferred, especially when using the tractor for competitive pulling (especially with a big engine in a fast gear), gardening or to haul heavy loads. An engine in a pulling tractor that's built to the max or runs at high rpms or at wide open throttle produces a lot more torque than what the engineers at Cub Cadet originally anticipated for the driveline to handle. Therefore, the clutch assembly is the weak point (and the carrier and axles), and will need to be reinforced and built up for strength for durability and to prevent slippage. Remember: towards the end of the track, if the tires don't spin or the engine bogs down, then the clutch will slip or something elsewhere in the driveline will possibly twist or break.
Types of Clutch Assemblies -
An ordinary clutch assembly for general yard work consist of a mild steel driveshaft, fiber clutch disc and a light-weight pressure spring. But a clutch assembly for competitive pulling and/or heavy yard work consist of a heavy duty 3- or 6-pin drive plate, either a stress-proof steel or stainless steel driveshaft, either a single- or double-fiber clutch disc, or a single aluminum clutch disc (depending on which class the tractor pulls in), and definitely a much stiffer pressure spring for placing a heavier load on the clutch disc. Also, the pressure plates will definitely need to be resurfaced until perfectly flat and trued-up in a small metal lathe to insure that the pressure plates will adhere to the clutch disc to prevent slippage. The same happens to automotive flywheels and pressure plates as the clutch disc wears. They need to be resurfaced too, when installing a new clutch disc. And the heavier or stronger the clutch assembly is, the more it will cost.
Cub Cadet made three different 3-pin clutch drive plates...
Depending on the class your tractor is going to pull in and engine size/modifications, there are many variations in which clutch/driveshaft design and carrier/axles to use. Listed are the weakest to the strongest:
Using Quality Driveshaft Material Is Important!
Most driveshafts are likely to
break at the second roll pin hole, just in front of the throw-out (clutch
release) bearing. Because that's where the most vibration usually occurs.
They also break just behind the pressure spring,
in front of the pillow block bearing, due to temporary frame twisting (narrow
frames) when pulling. If this happens, it's best to install a
split locking collar.
What mainly makes the driveshaft break at 4,000+ rpms is either...
If quality driveshaft material is used, and if the rotating parts are precision balanced and if a carrier bearing is also installed (above 4,000 rpm. The factory setting of maximum rpm for virtually all small gas engines, including all of Kohler engines is 3,600), the driveshaft could possibly last the life of the tractor. Even when used in high-performance conditions.
Remember, in the direct-drive Cub Cadet, the entire clutch/driveshaft assembly rotates the same speed as the engine. For reliability in a highly modified tractor that turns well above 4,000 rpm, the driveshaft must be made of quality, solid hardened steel that can resist torsional twist. Such as 1144 stress-proof steel, heat-treated 4140 chrome-moly steel or 304 alloy stainless steel.
Advertisement:
If you need any of the parts and/or services listed below
Ê, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA |
 Phone: 1-573-875-4033. Please
call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no
answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient
because I stutter.)  Fax:
1-573-449-7347.  E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. Send
a message with Yahoo Messenger:
|
 Driveshafts for IH and
MTD-built Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 106, 108, 122,
124, 126, 128, 580, 582, 800, 1000, 1050, 1200, 1604, 1606 & 1806.
NOTE: These driveshafts are made
to order. When ordering, please specify the model of Cub Cadet you have and
possibly the exact length and where you want the roll pin holes drilled.
If you're not sure about the length, to determine the exact length, measure
between the end of the crankshaft threads or bolt head to the input shaft
on the transaxle (or creeper drive input shaft), and then subtract 1/4".
This will allow an 1/8" clearance on each end. I also make driveshafts for
hydrostatic drive Cub Cadets.
Ê
Driveshafts for IH Cub Cadet "Original" and MTD-built Hydrostatic Drive Cub Cadets - Driveshaft for IH Cub Cadet "Original". Available in stress proof steel only. Please specify with or without creeper drive. "T" cross bracket welded to shaft and roll pin holes drilled. $65.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
 Heavy Duty Replacement
Driveshaft Spiral Pins. 1/4" diameter x 1" or 1-1/2" long. Hardened carbon
steel. The 1" length pins are for rear of pressure spring and small diameter
rear coupler; and the 1-1/2" long pins are for pressure plates and large
diameter rear coupler.
NOTE: The driveshafts with or without a creeper drive unit use the same number of spiral pins. There's two for the pressure plates, one at the end of the main pressure spring, and two in the rear coupler. But instead of using a spiral pin that connects the coupler to the input shaft in the transaxle, a grade 8 bolt w/locknut can be used instead for easier installation. Heavy Duty Replacement Clutch Drive Spiral Pins. 3/8" diameter x 1-1/2" long for the OEM 3-pin drive plate and drag link steering arm. Hardened carbon steel. NOTE: The holes in the drag link arm and spindle may need to be drilled to .375" (3/8") for this pin to fit.
When ordering, please specify the diameter and length(s) you need. Many other diameters and lengths of spiral pins are also available. |
Use quality coiled/spiral pins for driveshafts to prevent the possibility
of pin breakage. Spiral pins are much stronger than the spring-type or C-shaped
roll pins. And all Cub Cadet driveshafts require the spiral roll-pins. Also,
use a quality-made 1/4" roll-pin punch tool to remove the roll-pins. And
whenever a roll-pin is removed, one end will probably get "mushroomed" or
flared out. Making reinstallation almost impossible. So before reinstalling
reusable roll-pins, bevel one end (grind to a dull point) to make the
installation easier.
Removing Spiral Pins -
Personally, I use 2 lb. hammer and a quality-made 1/4" roll pin punch to drive the pins out of the driveshaft and rear coupler. I've had some stubborn pins before, but they've always drove out with determination, and no damage to anything (except to the pin itself). Spiral pins can't be drilled out either because they're as hard as a quality drill bit. And I've heard of people heating up the pin with a torch. This will cause the out-ward expansion of the pin to collapse and then it can be driven out easier.
How to Reinforce the Clutch Release Lever Brace on a Wide and Spread Frame Cub Cadet When Using the Yellow Spring -
Install a piece of 1/8" x 1" x (you'll need to measure the length if the transaxle have been moved rearward) flat steel from the center of the clutch release lever brace back to one of the upper bolts on the front of the transaxle. Use grade 8 bolts so it can be removed later in case of repairs.
When to use a Split Locking Collar on the Driveshaft -
The
only reason a locking collar is needed behind the
pressure spring is for competitive pulling
and when the engine turns at very high rpm. When a pillow block bearing is
used to stabilize the driveshaft (prevent wobble) at very high rpm, the collar
prevents the driveshaft from breaking [when a hole is drilled for the 3rd
roll pin] and when or if the driveshaft flex under pulling strain. If a stock
engine will never run above 4,000 rpm, then a locking collar shouldn't be
needed on the driveshaft.
Note: when using a stainless steel driveshaft, the locking collar may slip rearward when the clutch pedal is fully depressed. Because stainless steel is very hard material and it has a "slick" surface. Sometimes using two collars will slip also. So to prevent the collar(s) from slipping, install flat washers behind the collar and in front of the pillow block bearing so the pressure will against the bearing and the bearing will hold the collar in position. Or, place a bead of weld on a washer and drive to prevent the collar(s) from slipping. And a locking collar will grip mild or stress proof steel with no problems. Return To Previous Paragraph
Advertisement:
| If you need a two-piece
clamp-on 5/8" i.d. shaft collar as mentioned and pictured above
È, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-875-4033. Please
call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no
answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient
because I stutter.) Fax:
1-573-449-7347. E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. Send
a message with Yahoo Messenger:
Each 5/8" i.d. collar has two Allen head screws that holds the clamp together and provide a very tight uniform 360° grip around the driveshaft. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling. NOTE: Position the split locking collar at 9-1/4" from front of driveshaft. This will compress the spring 4-1/2" in length once installed (with the clutch/brake pedal not depressed). And with a stainless steel driveshaft, it's best to use two locking collars because just one might slip on the "slick" and hardened surface of stainless steel. |
Advertisement:
| If you need any of the parts and/or services listed below
Ê, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-875-4033. Please
call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no
answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient
because I stutter.) Fax:
1-573-449-7347. E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. Send
a message with Yahoo Messenger:
|
 Pillow
Block with High Quality 5/8" Bearing and Cast Iron Housing. (Cub Cadet driveshaft
support.) Use with support brace below Ê.
Center to center of mounting bolt holes: 3-3/4". A must for a high rpm
or wide
open throttle pulling engine to prevent driveshaft wobble and possible
breakage.
|
 Support Brace for Pillow Block
Bearing above È. Made of 1/8" thickness
angle steel with holes drilled. IMPORTANT! Before installing this
brace inside tractor frame, first install driveshaft connected to transaxle,
then bolt in engine. This will guarantee the pillow block bearing is perfectly
aligned (centered) with the driveshaft. And then securely weld brace to inside
of tractor frame.
|
Do this only if the front
axle has been moved forward -
On the narrow frame Cub Cadets, if the front axle has been
moved forward, reinforce the frame rails where the engine mounting holes
are to reduce normal high-rpm engine vibration travel that could lead to
both frame and driveshaft breakage. To do so, stiffen the frame rails where
the engine mounting bolt holes are by welding two 1/4" thick steel plates
under the frame. Longer engine mounting bolts must be used, too. The reason
for this is because when the front axle center support is moved, the remaining
frame material isn't thick enough to hold up to the engine vibration.
For
the spread frame models with the ISO (rubber) motor mounts, replace the rubber
mounts with a set of our solid steel motor mounts or remove the rails and
fabricate a minimum 1/4" thick plate steel, set it at the right height and
weld it to the frame. But the engine mounting holes and oil drain plug hole
must be properly located (centered) and drilled in the plate first.
Return To Previous Page
How to remove the driveshaft/clutch assembly from a Cub Cadet:
And for cosmetic reasons, I
cover up the hole with a chrome plated metal hole plug. Sometimes the pounding will
bend the input shaft when driving out the spiral pin. If this happens, the
input shaft will need to be straightened (and hope it doesn't break later
because the metal has been weakened) or a good used one will need to be
installed. This is why I suggest to everyone that a hardened steel 1/4" bolt
should be used in the coupler because if they ever need to remove the driveshaft
again, removing a bolt would be a lot easier than driving out a stubborn
spiral pin, plus it'll be easier on the input shaft.
How to Disassemble the Clutch Components from the Driveshaft -
To disassemble the clutch components from the driveshaft, first place the front pressure plate hub on slightly open jaws of a bench vise and then use a quality-made 1/4" roll pin punch and a medium size hammer to drive out the spiral pin. Then the pressure plates, clutch disc throw-out bearing and pressure spring should all slide off the driveshaft.
Fasten the Coupling Arms Together To Make a Solid Driveshaft Coupler -
With
solid motor mounts installed in a Cub Cadet that originally came with an
ISO-mounted engine, the driveshaft will not be able to "move" with the engine
and there'll be less chance of clutch parts prematurely wearing or breaking.
The rubber flex coupler disc(s) at the end of the driveshaft will be useless
too, and could deteriorate over time. So instead of replacing the OEM coupling
arms with a machined solid round coupler, make the coupling arms solid by
removing the rubber disc(s) and install a couple of 3/8" thickness spacers
for a single disc, and a couple of 3/4" thickness spacers for double discs,
and then fasten the arms together with a couple of 3/8" diameter hardened
steel bolts. (Large nuts are used as spacers in the picture to the right.)
By the way - one rubber flex disc is 3/8" thick. This setup is just as strong
as using a solid round coupler, and it cost a lot less.
If the outer parts of the two
arms don't come together or meet when the bolts are tightened (be careful
not to tighten the bolts too tight if the arms don't meet, they could break),
a couple of thin flat washers may need to be added as shims next to the spacers.
And before fastening the arms together with the spacers, first slide the
arms on the driveshaft so they'll be in perfect alignment with each other,
and then tighten the bolts. See the picture to the right. Also, if you want,
leave out the 5/8" diameter [swivel/spacer] steel ball. It'll serve no purpose
when using solid motor mounts and when making the coupling arms solid.
FYI - Many pullers convert the hydrostatic drive Cub Cadet models 109, 129, 149 and 169 (wide frames, solid mounted engine) and models 1250, 1450 and 1650 (wide frames, ISO-mounted engine) into a clutch-drive tractor. All that's needed are the clutch assembly with the hanger bracket for the release lever and a complete transaxle out of a model 86, 108, 128 (wide frames, solid mounted engine) or models 800, 1000 or 1200 (wide frames, ISO-mounted engine) gear drive Cub Cadet. A set of my solid motor mounts will be needed also if the tractor originally has rubber motor mounts. The braking mechanism out of a wide frame Cub Cadet will also be needed.
Do not fasten the two brackets
directly together on the IH Cub Cadet "Original" because the driveshaft needs
to move up or down to tighten the drive belt to the engine. Leave the flexible
rubber disc in place, even for pulling. Or install a 5/8" i.d. universal
joint instead.
Advertisement:
| If you need any of the parts and/or services listed below
Ê, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-875-4033. Please
call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no
answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient
because I stutter.) Fax:
1-573-449-7347. E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. Send
a message with Yahoo Messenger:
|
 OEM stock-length or 3"
aftermarket couplers for Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104,
106, 108, 122, 124, 126 and 128. And one-piece couplers to replace rubber
flex coupler(s) and T-arms on "Quiet Line" Cub Cadet models 800, 1000 and
1200 when using solid motor mounts. Also custom-length driveshaft couplers,
up to 6" in length. Made of tough 3/16" wall thickness 4140 chrome-moly steel.
NOTE: When ordering, please specify model of Cub
Cadet, overall length and roll pin hole locations.
|
 Slotted Drive Hub Assembly
for all solid-mounted engine hydrostatic drive IH Cub Cadets. Replaces hub
on models 105, 107, 123, 125, 127, 147 (narrow frames) and 109, 129, 149,
169 (wide frames). Bolts to the aluminum hub adapter that fastens to flywheel
for front of driveshaft. Professionally fabricated by Brian Miller. Replaces
Cub Cadet part # IH-394034-R32.
|
A rear driveshaft coupler with
a worn center can be repaired by boring out the center, and installing a
press-fit steel sleeve. Then ream the sleeve to .626" for a slip-fit on the
driveshaft. And then drill the holes for the spiral pins. The boring and
reaming process should be performed on a milling machine with a self-centering
3-jaw super spacer or in a metal lathe with a self-centering 3-jaw chuck.
Installing a spiral pin in the
rear of the driveshaft to connect the coupler to the input shaft on the transaxle
of a Cub Cadet can be very difficult. So to make it much easier, simply use
a 1/4" grade 8 bolt instead. For strength, the shank (unthreaded part) of
the bolt needs to have full contact with the coupler and driveshaft. And
as long as the driveshaft is in correct alignment with the centerline of
the crankshaft and transaxle input shaft, with the spiral pins holes in-line
with each other, and not offset 90°, at around 4,000 rpm, this should
not cause the driveshaft to "shake around" or vibrate whatsoever. At high
rpms or at
wide
open throttle, a pillow block bearing with a cross member brace should
be used midway on the driveshaft.
For pulling applications, rubber motor mounts (and the flexible coupler at the rear of the driveshaft) absorbs valuable horsepower, which must be transferred to the rear tires for full power to the track. The rubber motor mounts will also cause the engine to vibrate excessively at high rpm. Plus, with normal use of the tractor, rubber motor mounts could cause the flexible 3-pin drive plate and/or the driveshaft to eventually break. If a tractor that has rubber motor mounts and a flexible coupler is going to be used for pulling competition, definitely install some metal motor mounts.
Advertisement:
| If you need a set of solid steel motor mounts, please contact A-1
Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO
65203-9136 USA | Phone:
1-573-875-4033. Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. Send
a message with Yahoo Messenger:
|
| Coming Soon! A-1 Miller's own CNC-machined
steel solid motor mounts. Projected price: $20.00/set of 4 for just the mounts;
and $30.00 per kit (includes 4 mounts w/flat washers, grade 8 bolts, nuts
and split lock washers).
For Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" Tractors - Replace Deteriorated "ISO" Rubber Motor Mounts with a Set of Machined Solid Steel Motor Mounts - Details include:
|
| For Wheel Horse - Replace Deteriorated ISO-Mounts with a Set of
Machined Solid Steel Motor Mounts -
Details include:
|
If the adjusting rod in your tractor is badly worn or if you bought a Cub Cadet without one, then here's the dimensions to make your own:
For all narrow frame Cub Cadets:
Start with a 3/8" diameter steel rod that's 10-1/2" in total length. The
3/8-24 NF threads are 4-7/8" in length. Install a nut on the threads for
the compression spring. Do not drill a hole for a cotter! (This will weaken
the rod, which could cause it to break.) The hole for the pedal return spring
is 5/32" in diameter. The long part is 9-3/8" to the inside of the bend.
The short part is 7/8" to the inside of the bend. NOTE: Heat the rod with
an acetylene torch to make the 90º bend. Because cold bending
may cause the metal to crack at the bend.
For the wide frame Cub Cadets:
Start with a 3/8" diameter steel rod that's 13-1/2" in total length. The
3/8-24 NF threads are 3-1/2" in length. Install a nut on the threads for
the compression spring. Do not drill a hole for a cotter! (This will weaken
the rod, which could cause it to break.) The hole for the outer cotter pin
is 5/32" in diameter. The inner cotter pin hole is also 5/32" in diameter
and located 1/2" from the first hole. The long part is 11-5/16" to the inside
of the bend. The short part is 1-13/16" to the inside of the bend. NOTE:
Heat the rod with an acetylene torch to make the 90º bend. Because
cold bending may cause the metal to crack at the bend.
Also, install the compression spring over the threaded end of the adjusting rod. The compression spring holds the release lever forward to take pressure off the throw-out bearing.
|
 The OEM aluminum clutch drive hub have been known to hold
up well even in a highly modified garden pulling tractor as long as the
original 1/4" thick x no less than 1-1/4" o.d. flat washer is installed under
the flywheel nut or bolt, and using hardened 1/4" bolts with split lock washers
to fasten the drive plate to the hub. The main causes of breakage is
running out-of-balance clutch parts and/or mostly not installing the large
flat washer as described above È under
the nut or bolt. Otherwise, they're pretty tough. |
If an OEM 3-pin clutch drive
plate is bent next to the drive studs (MTD) or spiral pin collars (IH), to
fix this:
If the bronze pilot bushing in a drive plate is excessively worn, this means that the pressure plates are badly out of balance and/or there was no lubricating grease applied to the bushing or on the driveshaft before installation of the clutch assembly in the tractor. In either case, resurface the pressure plates until they're perfectly flat and true-up the edge to prevent wobble in a metal lathe. IMPORTANT: To insure true flatness when resurfacing pressure plates, use a lathe that's in good condition with very little wear on the ways!
Advertisement:
| If you need any of the parts and/or services listed below
Ê, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-875-4033. Please
call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no
answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient
because I stutter.) Fax:
1-573-449-7347. E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. Send
a message with Yahoo Messenger:
|
|
| Refurbished OEM Cub Cadet 3-pin Drive Plate -
NOTE: Before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply quality automotive lubricating grease to inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if it's dry, chances are, the driveshaft won't release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing and driveshaft. And I can't make a flexible 3-pin clutch driver. They're an OEM Cub Cadet dealer item only. |
|
Weld the collars on your OEM IH Cub Cadet drive plate to prevent plate from bending under strain. An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this. $15.00 labor, plus return shipping. NOTE: Before installing the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply quality automotive lubricating grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if it's dry, chances are, the driveshaft won't release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing and driveshaft. |
Repair your OEM Cub Cadet 3-pin clutch drive plate when original drive pin collar(s) are broken off. $30.00 for parts & labor, plus return shipping & handling. NOTE: Before installing the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply quality automotive lubricating grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if it's dry, chances are, the driveshaft won't release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing and driveshaft. |
 Repair pilot
bushing hole in drive plate that's worn too big for OEM pilot bushing.
$25.00 parts and labor, plus return shipping. An innovative concept
by Brian Miller
 OEM-Thickness 5/8" i.d. x 7/8"
o.d. x 3/4" length OEM-quality bronze pilot bushing to replace the OEM bushing
for all pre-1981 gear drive IH Cub Cadets, except "Quiet Line" models. This
is also the replacement bushing for inside the IH Cub Cadet "Original" clutch
disc/pulley. Our part # 153-207.
 Thin-Wall 5/8" i.d. x 3/4" o.d.
x 3/4" length bronze pilot bushing for installing inside a worn OEM bronze
pilot bushing in all pre-1981 gear drive IH Cub Cadets, except "Quiet Line"
models. Can also be used inside the OEM bushing in the IH Cub Cadet "Original"
clutch disc/pulley. NOTE: The worn OEM bushing must be center-bored to
.750" in a metal lathe so this bushing will have a centered and press fit.
 New OEM-quality bronze pilot bushing for all pre-1981 gear
drive IH Cub Cadets, except "Quiet Line" models. Also replacement bushing
for inside the IH Cub Cadet "Original" clutch disc/pulley. $3.00 each,
plus shipping & handling.
NOTE: Before installing the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply quality automotive lubricating grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if it's dry, chances are, the driveshaft won't release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing and driveshaft. |
|
 Repair work
- Convert your OEM 3-pin clutch drive plate into a 6-pin, install 3 grade
8 studs, lock washers, and true-up plate in metal lathe. An innovative
concept by Brian Miller
NOTE: Before installing the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply quality automotive lubricating grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if it's dry, chances are, the driveshaft won't release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing and driveshaft. |
|
 Heavy Duty,
All Steel Clutch Drive Plates!
Available with 3 or 6 drive studs. Plate made of 3/16" thickness steel. Heavy
duty, 1/3 thicker and 80% stronger than OEM drive plates; recommended for
pulling tractors running unlimited rpm using a single or a double-disc clutch
setup. These precision made, high quality drive plates come with a new bronze
pilot bushing and grade 8 drive studs. Weighs under 2 lbs.
NOTE: Before installing the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply quality automotive lubricating grease inside the pilot bushing and on the front of the driveshaft. Because if it's dry, the driveshaft won't release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing and driveshaft. And when using the 6-pin drive plate, three additional holes must be drilled in the clutch disc(s) to match the location of the six drive studs. |
|
 Heavy Duty,
All Steel PTO-Driven Clutch Drive Plate for when the engine is reversed in
a Cub Cadet! An innovative concept by Brian Miller
Fabricated 3- or 6-pin, 3/16" plate thickness. Heavy duty, 1/3 thicker and 80% stronger than OEM; recommended for pulling tractors running unlimited rpm using a single or a double-disc clutch setup. When ordering, please specify the diameter for the PTO shaft on the engine. Weighs about 3 lbs.
NOTE: Three additional holes must be drilled in the clutch discs to match the location of the six drive studs. These precision made, high quality drive plates come with a new bronze pilot bushing (you install) and grade 8 steel drive studs. And a 3/4" hole MUST be drilled into end of crankshaft for pilot bushing. And before installing the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply quality automotive lubricating grease inside the pilot bushing and on the front of the driveshaft. Because if it's dry, the driveshaft won't release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing and driveshaft. And when using the 6-pin drive plate, three additional holes must be drilled in the clutch disc(s) to match the location of the six drive studs. |
|
 Flywheel Retaining Washers. A must to secure flywheel and prevent
Cub Cadet or billet aluminum clutch hub adapter breakage! Each made of steel
and measures approximately 1/4" thick x 1-1/4" o.d.
|
|
  Spacer/Bushing and Step Washer for centering Cub Cadet aluminum
clutch adapter hub with a 5/8" hole with the Kohler Magnum crankshaft using
a 3/8" bolt. A must to prevent out-of-balance clutch parts, severe vibration,
wear and damage! NOTE: I can also custom machine other adapter washers
to fit your particular application. All I need are the exact dimensions.
|
|
  NEW OEM Cub Cadet/Kohler
Aluminum Clutch Hub Adapters.
Used OEM Cub Cadet/Kohler Aluminum Clutch Hub Adapters with either a 3/8"
(Magnum) or 5/8" (K-series) center hole. $30.00 each, plus shipping
& handling. (When available.)
|
|
 1/4" diameter
x 3/4" long hardened steel dowel pin for OEM and billet aluminum clutch hub
adapters. Secures aluminum hub to flywheel to prevent slippage. Replaces
Cub Cadet part # KH-X-56-7 and Kohler part # X-56-7. $1.50 each, plus
shipping & handling. |
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Resurfacing and Trueing Up Worn and Warped Pressure Plates -
For any clutch disc to adhere or hold well and to prevent slippage, both pressure plates must be resurfaced until they're perfectly flat in a metal lathe. The outer edge should be trued-up too, to prevent wobble, which can cause the pilot bushing to wear excessively. For a used clutch assembly, chances are, the fiber clutch disc is worn to match the wear on the pressure plates. If the clutch disc is worn, but still reusable, it can be resurfaced until perfectly flat in the lathe as well. For best clutch adhesion and to lessen the chance of slippage, the clutch-to-pressure plates surface contact areas must be flat against flat for 100% contact.
Warped pressure plates will allow a single or even double clutches to slip. They warp due to overheating and normal wear. When they get warped, they don't have full contact with the entire surface of the clutch disc. Whenever a new clutch disc is installed, rather if it's an OEM one or made of aluminum, the pressure plates should always be resurfaced until perfectly flat and trued up in a metal lathe. New OEM Cub Cadet pressure plates are stamped in a press and not machined in a lathe. This means they're not as flat or turn as true as ones that's been machined in a lathe. Therefore, if new or used pressure plates are going to be used for pulling or heavy yard work, have the outer edge trued up and then have the clutch contact area resurfaced until perfectly flat in a metal lathe.
The OEM Cub Cadet pressure plates are 3/16" (.188") thick. On the average, approximately .005" of metal is removed from the face of each pressure plate after it has been resurfaced until perfectly flat. Removing this much metal won't weaken the plates whatsoever, even when used with a very stout pressure spring.
With both pressure plates properly resurfaced until perfectly flat, the single OEM fiber clutch, with 4-1/2" diameter pressure plates, has a total disc to plate contact area of 17.7 square inches. When doubled (as in double clutches including the 4-1/2" diameter center drive plate), it has a total contact area of 36 square inches. This is why double clutches hold so well in pulling. It's the same as using a bigger clutch that has more contact area. And double-clutches will have even more contact area with 4-5/8" diameter pressure plates!
The aluminum disc on the other hand (as described in this web site), has a total contact area of 29.8 square inches. You may look at this disc and ask, "where's the friction material?" Well, the aluminum itself is the friction material. A single aluminum disc will adhere to (grip) steel a lot better than a single OEM Cub Cadet fiber clutch disc. Both of these type of clutches (the single aluminum and double-OEM fiber clutch disc), when used with a cultivator spring kit, has been proven to hold very well in pulling. If everything is machined, precision balanced, installed and adjusted correctly, the aluminum or double-disc clutch system including the driveshaft could possibly last the life of the tractor. Even when used in high-performance conditions.
IMPORTANT: To insure true flatness when resurfacing pressure plates, use a lathe that's in good condition with very little wear on the ways!
Save the Hubs!
If the discs in your pressure plates are heavily rusted, worn too thin or warped badly and resurfacing them in a lathe didn't do any good, instead of making two entirely new pressure plates, what could be done is remove the center hub from each disc with a hydraulic press and then reuse the hubs to make two new pressure plates. This would save from having to fabricate a couple of new hubs.
NOTE: If an aluminum clutch disc is used in a high rpm tractor, I found they won't work as well because after a while the aluminum will get galled, and the clutch could become "grabby." The aluminum disc works best in a stock tractor with the engine running at a maximum of 4,000 rpm. Therefore, a double fiber clutch disc set up with a cultivator pressure spring may to be installed.
If a single OEM fiber clutch disc slips in a stock pulling tractor, then what is required to prevent clutch slippage is to install a single piece of machined aluminum to serve as a clutch disc. With resurfaced pressure plates and a cultivator pressure spring, aluminum should grip and hold up well when used in a stock garden pulling tractor. By the way, the OEM sandwiched steel fiber clutch disc and an aluminum clutch disc weighs almost the same; about 10.6 ounces each.
The aluminum clutch disc works best for low rpm stock engines. I use the aluminum clutch disc in our stock pulling tractors and the double OEM-fiber clutches in our higher horsepower tractors. I haven't had any problems with either clutches for several years.
If a single, lightweight aluminum clutch disc is used, there's no need to install three extra studs in the 3-pin drive plate (see below Ê). But definitely have both pressure plates resurfaced until perfectly flat as described above È. Depending on the size of engine and weight of tractor, the aluminum clutch disc requires a tougher driveshaft along with a cultivator spring kit. And it'll be a good idea to install a center support bearing (pillow block bearing) to prevent the driveshaft from wobbling at 4,000 rpm. Also, if the pressure plates are properly resurfaced until perfectly flat and if aluminum is used, the aluminum won't excessively wear or melt onto them.
The
biggest mistake a puller can make when launching a tractor is letting the
clutch out all of a sudden with the engine revved up. So when using aluminum
as a clutch disc (or any metallic clutch material), and when the tractor
is hooked to the sled, always remember to "slip" the clutch upon take-off.
To do this, first rev up the engine (a lot), and then slowly ease out
on the clutch pedal. Because an aluminum clutch disc may not "slip" at
low rpm, and because aluminum adheres to steel very well when under pressure,
if the pedal is let out all of a sudden with the engine revved up, and if
the tires don't spin, something could break or get damaged in the drivetrain
or transaxle. The 5/8" zinc-plated steel split lock washer that's placed
between the pressure plates will aide greatly in smooth clutch engagement/release
and it lessens the possibility of the clutch from "grabbing" upon
take-off.
Advertisement:
| If you need any of the parts and/or services listed below
Ê, or if you need your clutch assembly
rebuilt or need some clutch parts as described in this web site, please contact
A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia,
MO 65203-9136 USA | Phone:
1-573-875-4033. Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. Send
a message with Yahoo Messenger:
|
|
 Aftermarket
fiber material clutch disc for Cub Cadet garden tractors. Provides about
70% more grip than stock Cub Cadet fiber clutch disc. Drop in replacement
of OEM Cub Cadet clutch disc. Can be used with the 6- or 3-pin drive plate.
Replaces Cub Cadet part # 961-3002.
IMPORTANT - Both pressure plates MUST be resurfaced until perfectly flat and trued-up in a metal lathe or severe clutch slippage may result! FYI - About 90% of the fiber material in clutch discs will chip off were the holes are drilled due to these reasons:
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 Teasing Spring for all clutch-drive Cub Cadets. OEM Cub Cadet
part # 932-3017.
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 [Protective] Cup/Spacer for Teasing Spring in Cub Cadet clutch
drive wide and spread frame models 86, 108, 128, 800, 1000, 1200 and 1535.
OEM Cub Cadet part # 911-3040.
|
| Coming Soon! A-1 Miller's own
CNC-machined 6-hole aluminum clutch discs. Projected price: $15.00 each,
plus shipping & handling.
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 Center drive
plate (disc) for double OEM fiber clutch disc setup. Made of mild steel.
Trued-up in my metal lathe. Dimensions: .133" thickness x .626" center hole
x approximately 4-1/2" diameter.
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Your Cub Cadet drive clutch pressure plates professionally
resurfaced and trued up in my metal lathe.
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Making the Aluminum Clutch Disc Engage Smoothly -
The OEM Cub Cadet cushion spring (as it is called in the early/narrow frame Cub Cadets) or teasing spring (as it is called in the later models/wide and spread frame Cub Cadets) goes between the rear pressure plate and throw-out bearing. It's purpose is to allow the rear pressure plate to gently press against the clutch disc as the clutch is engaged without having a "jerky" clutch. When using an aluminum clutch disc, the teasing spring can be replaced with a steel spacer or a stack of small outside diameter flat washers (the ones that originally comes on Cub Cadet driveshafts) and an ordinary, zinc-plated steel split lock washer. Install the lock washer between the pressure plates (dead center of the clutch disc) for a smoother clutch engagement. Clutch slippage may result if used with the OEM Cub Cadet pressure spring. Therefore, the aluminum clutch disc should be used with a stiffer-than-stock pressure spring, such as the cultivator spring kit.
For the narrow-frame Cub Cadets,
the steel spacer needs to be 3/8" in length. (The teasing spring is compressed
to 3/8" when the clutch is fully engaged.) And for Cub Cadet models 86, 108,
128, 800, 1000, 1200 and 1535, the spacer needs to 5/8" long or use the OEM
protective cup/spacer (for the teasing) that originally comes on the driveshaft,
but leave the teasing spring out. By the way - the small end of the protective
cup/spacer goes against the throw-out bearing. If a too long of a spacer
or the protective spacer/cup is used in a narrow frame model, the throw-out
bearing would set too far back on the driveshaft and when the brake/clutch
pedal is depressed, the release lever would hit the steering box and the
clutch wouldn't be able to release.
To
prevent the teasing spring from possibly breaking and to help the clutch(es)
to engage more smoothly, simply don't use the teasing spring. Instead, replace
where the teasing spring goes on the driveshaft with a piece of heavy wall
round steel tubing that measures 7/8" o.d. x 3/8" (narrow frame) or 5/8"
(wide frame) long x 41/64" i.d. Then install an ordinary zinc-plated 5/8"
i.d. split lock washer between the pressure plates, dead center of the clutch
disc. Use two zinc-plated steel split lock washers (one for each clutch disc)
if using double clutches.
The lock washer does two things - it acts like a spring, which forces the pressure plates apart, it provides smooth clutch engagement and it'll help to prevent the possibility of the clutch disc from "grabbing" upon take-off. In addition, the spring-like action of the lock washer will expand the pressure plates when the clutch/brake pedal is fully depressed so they will release from the clutch disc. Doing this will guarantee that the clutch will engage smoothly and release every time. So when reassembling a clutch assembly, don't install the teasing spring. Instead, install the spacer and lock washer as described above È. You'll be glad you did.
Or for a bullet-proof teasing spring setup, and/or if the aluminum clutch disc doesn't engage smoothly, instead of using the 5/8" lock washer between the pressure plates and the teasing spring or a steel spacer, install a flat washer, the 5/8" lock washer and then another flat washer until they all total to about 3/8" or 5/8" in height with the lock washer fully uncompressed.
The correct order of installing Cub Cadet clutch parts on the driveshaft is listed below Ê. But first, be sure to apply a light coat of quality automotive lubricating grease on the driveshaft where the throw-out bearing and slotted pressure plate slides back and forth for easier clutch release and to lessen wear to driveshaft.
| 1. Install 3rd spiral pin and then pressure
spring. 2. Install throw-out bearing (small end facing forward of tractor). 3. Install release lever. 4. Install protective spacer/cup (small end goes against throw-out bearing). 5. Install teasing spring or steel spacer. |
6. Compress the pressure spring and then install the 2nd
spiral pin. 7. Install pressure plate w/slotted hub. 8. Install zinc-plated steel split lock washer (use only with very stiff pressure spring). 9. Install clutch disc. 10. Install pressure plate w/solid hub and then the 1st spiral pin. |
NOTE: With the clutch fully engaged, sometimes air will get trapped between the pressure plates, which will at times create a vacuum lock and the clutch won't want to release right away. To prevent this from happening, drill an 1/8" hole through one of the pressure plates close to the hub so air can be relieved from within the center of the clutch disc.
To disassemble the clutch components from the driveshaft, this is how I do it:
For safety, a
hydraulic press should be used to compress the large pressure
spring on the driveshaft to reassemble the clutch components!
To test how well the clutch will release out of the tractor, place the clutch assembly in the hydraulic press with each end of the release lever on a couple of blocks, and apply slight downward pressure on the end of the driveshaft. The clutch disc should rotate or "move around" freely without binding. If the disc doesn't rotate or binds, redo your work to find out what went wrong.
How to Fix a "Sticking" Cub Cadet Clutch (when it won't release) -
Before reassembling the clutch, apply a light film of quality automotive lubricating grease on the driveshaft where the rear pressure plate slides back and forth. If this was already done, and it still won't release, an ordinary 5/8" split lock washer (made of zinc plated steel) may need to be installed between the pressure plates to spread (or force) them apart when the clutch pedal is depressed. Also, while the rear pressure plate off the driveshaft, make sure it doesn't bind on the shaft or on the spiral pin. If it does, smooth the driveshaft or widen the spiral pin slot slightly with a file. And it'll be a good idea to drill a small hole near the center of the pressure plates to relieve the air that gets trapped between the pressure plates.
The Much Over-Looked Clutch Release Lever Clevis Pin -
If the straight 3/8" diameter OEM Cub Cadet
clevis pin that goes through the clutch hanger bracket
and release lever is worn, this part should be replaced with an angled or
L-shaped pivot pin. As the engine runs with the clutch fully engaged (foot
off the clutch pedal, of course), due to normal engine vibrations and slight
out-of-balance rotating clutch parts, the OEM round pin continually spins,
causing the pin itself and the holes in the hanger bracket to wear. The holes
in the release lever rarely wear because the entire lever is made of hardened,
heat-treated steel. By replacing the round pin with an angled pin (with the
short end long enough to make contact with the tractor frame or hanger bracket),
it can't spin. Therefore, there'll be much less wear on the pin and holes,
the throw-out bearing will last longer, there'll be less noise coming from
the clutch parts, clutch operation will be smoother, and clutch adjustment
will remain the same for a longer time. (I think the engineers at IH Cub
Cadet should have originally installed an angled pin in their tractors. But
then again, they probably didn't plan on their tractors being in use 40-50
years later.)
Advertisement:
| If you need an angled or L-shaped pivot pin for your Cub Cadet, please
contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia,
MO 65203-9136 USA | Phone:
1-573-875-4033. Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. Send
a message with Yahoo Messenger:
|
3/8" diameter angled "L-shaped"
clevis pin for clutch release lever/hanger bracket. Prevents holes in
release lever and hanger bracket from wearing due to spinning OEM round pin,
lessens clutch noise and provides for smoother clutch operation. Please
specify model of Cub Cadet when ordering. Replaces Cub Cadet part #'s 911-0755
(narrow frame models) and 911-3044 (wide and spread frame models).
An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise
this.
|
Weld up and redrill worn
[clevis pin] holes in clutch hanger brackets.
|
Saving a Used Throw-Out (Clutch Release) Bearing - An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this.
If
a used throw-out bearing is still pretty much "tight," but sounds noisy or
"rattles" when you spin it by hand, it could be saved from further wear by
pumping it full of quality automotive lubricating grease. The same can be
done to a new bearing to insure that it will last a long time. (I've done
this many times when I rebuild clutch assemblies and have never had one
complaint!) The fresh grease will help keep the balls within the bearing
well-lubricated and cool, preventing them from further wear. But if the bearing
is badly worn or if you're in doubt about doing this, then perhaps install
a new one. (Cub Cadet part # 741-3056)
When assembling the clutch components,
never install the throw-out bearing on the driveshaft backwards! Install
it with the collar (the center part that sticks out) towards the clutch disc.
How To Save A Used Throw-Out Bearing:
Drill a 3/32" hole in the grease/dust seal on the back side of the bearing.
The same procedure above È can be done to many types of used precision, high-speed sealed roller bearings, besides just throw-out bearings. And for anyone who's ever wondered about this, when the clutch/brake pedal is fully depressed, the throw-out bearing moves back 3/8" on the driveshaft.
By the way - the throw-out bearing used in the model 582 is different than other models. It's an ordinary sealed high speed radial ball bearing with a sleeve pressed into it. It measures .780" i.d. x 1.850" o.d. x .550" wide. The number is 6204R5 and 180204. These are not Timken numbers. They will need to be cross-referenced.
Advertisement:
| If you need a new clutch release throw-out bearing, please contact
A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia,
MO 65203-9136 USA | Phone:
1-573-875-4033. Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. Send
a message with Yahoo Messenger:
|
 Clutch Release Throw-Out
Bearing for IH-built Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104,
106, 122, 124, 126, 108, 128, 582, and certain models of 800, 1000 and 1200.
Precision, high-speed sealed collar bearing. NOTE: The part that sticks
out faces forward toward the clutch disc.
|
 Clutch Release Throw-Out
Bearing for MTD-built Cub Cadet models 580, 582, 1050, 1535, 1604, 1606 &
1806, and certain IH Cub Cadet models 800, 1000 & 1200.
|
| Build up welding in clutch release lever in worn area where throw-out bearing makes contact, and grind it smooth. $10.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling. |
The Pedal Return Spring and Maintaining Proper Clutch Adjustment -
Install
the pedal return spring to keep from wearing both the throw-out bearing and
release lever. Don't just install a cotter pin in place of it. A pedal
return spring is a short, very stiff, expansion spring with a hook on each
end. The size is approximately 3/4" diameter x 2-1/8" in overall length.
And remember to never "ride the clutch." This means keep your foot off the
clutch pedal when pulling or operating the tractor!
The return spring connects from the hole in the end of the adjusting rod to a hole in the crossmember that's in the tractor's frame. Install one end of the spring in the linkage first, then install the other end in the crossmember. NOTE: It may be difficult to get the end of the spring in the hole because of the tension, but it can be done and it MUST be done. (I do it all the time with our muscles, Vise Grips and a little leverage from our trusty small prybar.)
There are no adjustments for the pedal return spring. It's job is to prevent the release lever from making connect with a throw-out bearing when the clutch pedal is fully disengaged. The pedal return spring attaches from the adjusting rod that runs from the release lever back to the bell crank that's on the clutch/brake pedal shaft. This shaft goes crossways through the frame of the tractor. It is very important that the tractor have a pedal return spring to prevent wearing of the throw-out bearing against the release lever (it will wear, too) while the clutch pedal is fully disengaged and the tractor is in operation.
If a pedal return spring is not installed or if the operator "rides the clutch" when pulling or when the tractor is in operation (keeping one's foot on the clutch pedal at all times), this will cause the throw-out bearing to spin the same speed as the engine, wearing it out prematurely. This will also wear the release lever as well. So making the proper adjustment and not "riding the clutch" will help the throw-out bearing last a very long time. The return spring connects from the hole in the end of the adjusting rod to a hole in the crossmember in the tractor's frame. NOTE: It may be somewhat difficult to get the end of the spring in the hole because of the tension, but it can be done, and it must be done. (I do it all the time with our Vise Grips and a little leverage from our trusty small prybar.)
No part of the release lever should make contact with the throw-out bearing when the clutch is fully engaged. If it does, and with the engine running, the driveshaft will spin the throw-out bearing, causing it to wear prematurely. In other words, the throw-out bearing will turn the same rpm as the engine. Therefore, there must be approximately .050" of clearance between the release lever and throw-out bearing. To determine this distance, adjust the nut on the adjusting rod that's on the release lever until there's about 9/32" of clearance between the pedal arm and pedal stop. And if your tractor doesn't already have one, definitely install a spring on the adjusting rod to the crossmember that's between the frame rails so the pressure will be taken off the bearing. Return To Previous Paragraph
Advertisement:
| If you need any of the parts listed below
Ê, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-875-4033. Please
call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no
answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient
because I stutter.) Fax:
1-573-449-7347. E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. Send
a message with Yahoo Messenger:
|
|
Pedal Return Extension
Spring. Fits Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 105, 122, 123,
124 and 125 (used as pedal return spring). A must for clutch drive tractors
to prevent rattling sound and premature wear to throw-out bearing and clutch
release lever. 2-1/2" unextended length between hooks. Replaces Cub Cadet
part # IH-370278-R2.
|
|
 All
metal self locking nut for 3/8" diameter threaded clutch release adjusting
rod to set clutch adjustment on Cub Cadets. 3/8-24 NF threads. Guaranteed
to stay tight. Replaces Cub Cadet part # 912-3061. $1.50 each, plus
shipping & handling. |
 Clutch Release Compression
Tension Spring for L-shaped 3/8" diameter threaded clutch adjusting rod.
Necessary to maintain correct clutch adjustment. Also fits mower deck lift
handle. 3-3/4" uncompressed length. For all Cub Cadet narrow, wide and spread
frame models. Replaces Cub Cadet part #'s 932-3005, 932-3023.
|
Information About the Pressure Spring -
If a light-weight tractor with a governed engine (up to 4,000 rpm) is going to be used for general yard work, it's okay to use the stock OEM Cub Cadet pressure spring with the OEM fiber clutch disc. A good used stock OEM pressure spring and a new OEM spring should measure no less than 6-1/2" in uncompressed length. The maximum length is 7". But the compressed length (on the driveshaft with the clutch pedal fully depressed) is 5". If a spring has been used on a driveshaft with an overheated or burned-out throw-out bearing, it's best to replace both. And if the pressure plates have been resurfaced until perfectly flat, but the clutch still slips in the heavier chores, perhaps a cultivator spring kit may need to be installed. (See below Ê.)
For the pressure plates to grip the clutch disc(s) firmly, the pressure spring must be a very stout one. The Cub Cadet pressure spring has about 250 psi of pressure and will probably not prevent the clutch from slipping in a pulling tractor. Therefore, a cultivator spring works excellent with the OEM clutch disc, aluminum disc or double OEM clutches. The cultivator spring has about a 500 psi rating, which is more than enough for use with most types of clutch discs. Also, the cultivator spring isn't large enough in the outside diameter to interfere with the steering box. However, the cross member will need to be notched-out to make room for the larger diameter cultivator spring. Plus, the tension of the cultivator spring is easy on the clutch adjusting rod/linkage and your leg muscles! It's ideal for small kids to use. Return To Previous Paragraph
Advertisement:
 If you need any parts
listed below Ê, please contact A-1 Miller's
Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136
USA | Phone: 1-573-875-4033.
Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am to 5pm, Central time zone.
If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please
be patient because I stutter.)
Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. Send
a message with Yahoo Messenger:
|
NOTE: When the cultivator spring is used, and for smooth clutch engagement and easy release, the 5/8" split lockwasher goes between the pressure plates, and the steel spacer replaces the teasing spring. But when the OEM stock pressure spring is used, leave out the lockwasher and use the OEM teasing spring between the throw-out bearing and rear pressure plate.
NOTE: When the cultivator spring is used, and for smooth clutch engagement and easy release, the 5/8" split lockwasher goes between the pressure plates, and the steel spacer replaces the teasing spring. But when the OEM stock pressure spring is used, leave out the lockwasher and use the OEM teasing spring between the throw-out bearing and rear pressure plate.
NOTE: When the cultivator spring is used, and for smooth clutch engagement and easy release, the 5/8" split lockwasher goes between the pressure plates, and the steel spacer replaces the teasing spring. But when the OEM stock pressure spring is used, leave out the lockwasher and use the OEM teasing spring between the throw-out bearing and rear pressure plate.
NOTE: When the cultivator spring is used, and for smooth clutch engagement and easy release, the 5/8" split lockwasher goes between the pressure plates, and the steel spacer replaces the teasing spring. But when the OEM stock pressure spring is used, leave out the lockwasher and use the OEM teasing spring between the throw-out bearing and rear pressure plate.
There are 4 steps in Installing a Double-Disc Clutch Setup
Step #1 - "Notch" the Release Lever and Relocate it's Bracket:
There are two options of doing this. Either way you choose to do it, you
will need to make room for the extra clutch disc and center drive plate.
Option #1:
- Relocate the bracket that the release lever is connected to rearward 3/8". Or for a very stiff pressure spring, use a piece of minimum 3/16" thickness angled steel to fasten the bracket onto, and then weld the angled steel to the frame. Be sure the angled steel is located 3/8" further back than the original bracket was.
Only on the narrow frame Cub Cadets, cut out the lower part of the clutch release lever so it'll clear the steering box, when the clutch/brake pedal is fully depressed. Also, cut out a place in the frame so the release lever will clear it when the clutch/brake pedal is fully depressed.
- Cut 3/8" off the threaded end of the clutch adjusting rod. If this is not done, the rod will be too long and interfere with the rear clutch disc.
- NOTE: The steel spacer that replaces the teasing spring can't be left out for double clutches because the longer studs (cut-off bolts) in the drive plate would hit the release lever when the clutch is engaged.
Option #2:
Instead of relocating the bracket and notching the lever, the engine mounting holes that's in the frame can be welded up, grind the weld flat and then drill some new holes exactly 3/8" forward (toward the front of the tractor) from the original holes. You'll also need a longer driveshaft, 3/8" longer to be exact. And you'll need to drill the #1 hole forward 3/8" and then drill the other holes same as in the original driveshaft.When using a deep sump oil pan, with the front axle in the stock position and when moving the engine forward, the axle pivot pin would interfere with the pan. For pulling competitively, the front axle would need to be moved as far forward as it'll go for better weight distribution. But if your club's rules don't allow the front axle to be moved forward, then a flat bottom oil pan can be used, and then the engine can be moved forward with no problems. Of course, half of the dipper on the connecting rod would need to be cut off, too.
Either the engine can be moved forward or the bracket moved rearward. Either way, one or the other will need to be relocated to accommodate for the extra clutch disc and center plate so the clutch will function properly.
Using a Volkswagen Clutch Assembly in a Cub Cadet -
The third type of clutch that some pullers use is a Volkswagen clutch assembly (starter, flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate and throw-out bearing and release lever) adapted to the Kohler crankshaft with a special-made tapered hub adapter. This type of clutch is made for the 1974 VW's and earlier with the air-cooled engine. They weigh more than the double clutch assembly as described above È (about 22 lbs. lighter, less hub) and they hold extremely well even in a highly modified (50+ c.i.) garden tractor. Also, the VW flywheel, starter ring gear and clutch assembly requires the VW starter. An adapter that replaces the Kohler-type flywheel must be fastened onto the crankshaft for the VW flywheel to work. And the starter must be adapted onto the Kohler engine block with a special bracket. The VW clutch comes in two sizes, 180mm and 200mm, with the 180mm being the choice for garden tractor pulling. This type of starter and clutch assembly is losing popularity with pullers who run the 50+ c.i. garden tractors because of it's excessive [forward] weight.
Improving International Harvester's Cub Cadet "Original" Clutch Assembly - (Updated 11/24/08) Top of page
The first Cub Cadet model made was the International Cub Cadet tractor, better
known as the IH Cub Cadet "Original". The reason this particular tractor
is called the "Original" because they're the very first Cub Cadet garden
tractor that International Harvester produced. That's why most folks nowadays
call them the Cub Cadet "Original". They didn't have a model number because
they were all built basically the same, and they all shared the same parts.
On these tractors, the power is transferred from a small pulley that is on the engine, onto a larger pulley that is on the driveshaft by use of a V belt, which act like a gear reduction. It's approximately a 1.6:1 reduction. This means that engine torque is increased 1.6 times to the driveshaft because the clutch/driveshaft assembly turns 1.6 times slower than the engine. This increases the power of the original 6¼hp into a 10hp engine.
Replacing the Drive Belt -
To remove and install the drive belt on an IH Cub Cadet "Original", the entire clutch assembly needs to be removed. After installing the belt and reinstalling the clutch assembly, the belt needs to be tightened by pulling down on the front brace of the clutch assembly (use a pry bar) and then tighten the bolts.
Repairing the Drive Clutch -
If the drive clutch holds well, but won't release at times, this means the sliding parts on the driveshaft are dry or the old grease has accumulated dirt and/or has "dried up," causing the parts to bind on the driveshaft.
How to Disassemble and Reassemble the IH Cub Cadet "Original" Clutch Assembly -
But if the clutch slips, performing the following should cure the problem:
First, resurface the cast iron pressure plates on a flat belt or large disc sander until they're perfectly flat. If the clutch discs (which is part of the pulley) aren't worn excessively, they can be sanded flat as well to match the flatness of the pressure plates. Just remove the raised places, no more. But if the fiber material is worn thin or if you have doubts that it won't grip well, then install new clutch facings on the pulley.
If the clutch fiber material "peels off" or comes loose from the pulley, it can be reattached with Super Glue or any high-strength adhesive or glue. As soon as the fiber material is glued on the pulley, place the clutch/pulley assembly between two thick flat steel plates to cover the entire fiber material and then place them in a hydraulic press and apply light pressure to squeeze out any air bubbles that may get trapped so the fiber material will have a stronger bond and lay flat. If a hydraulic press isn't available, then using one of the tires that's on a car or truck will place enough pressure, too. After the glue has dried, lightly sand the fiber material on a large flat sanding disc or belt sander to insure true flatness.
For even better clutch adhesion or "holding power," the OEM pressure spring can be replaced with a cultivator spring kit. Be sure to drill the 3rd hole to 1/4" and install a heavy spiral pin, too! Install a new bronze bushing in the throw-out bearing if it's worn. Then lubricate the throw-out bearing through the factory-installed grease fitting. Under normal use, the throw-out bearing needs to be lubricated once a year.
And as far as I'm aware, new fiber facings for the IH Cub
Cadet "Original" clutch is not available from any source. But 6061 aluminum
can be used as clutch facings on the IH Cub Cadet "Original"
clutch pulley. The dimensions of the fabricated aluminum clutch facings
are as follows: 4-1/2" o.d. x 3" i.d. x 1/8" thick.
Fasten the aluminum to the pulley
with six (for strength) 10-32 NF x 1/2" long flat head brass screws equally
spaced apart on each side. Offset the threaded holes in the pulley so the
threads of the screws on one side won't interfere with the screws on the
other side. Countersink the heads of the screws into the aluminum with the
heads slightly below the surface of the aluminum. Make sure the aluminum
is perfectly flat before installing it on the pulley, too. And of course,
when using aluminum as clutch material, a stiffer-than-stock pressure spring,
such as the cultivator spring kit, will be required to prevent clutch
slippage.
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Driveshafts for IH Cub Cadet
models 105, 107, 109, 123, 125, 127, 129, 147, 149 & 169. Available
in stress proof steel only. spiral pin sold separately. (scroll down)
Aftermarket rear driveshaft
to input shaft coupler for IH Cub Cadet "Original" and Cub Cadet models 105,
107, 109, 123, 125, 127, 129, 147, 149 & 169. Made of mild steel.
Replaces Cub Cadet part # 759-3009 (OEM $68.00). $30.00 each, plus
shipping & handling.
Driveshaft for IH and MTD-built
Cub Cadet models 682, 782, 782D, 784, 882, 982, 1100, 1512, 1250, 1450, 1541,
1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1810, 1811, 1812 & 1860.
Clutch Drive Studs w/nuts
for MTD-built Cub Cadet 3-pin clutch drive plate or convert an IH-built
OEM Cub Cadet 3-pin clutch drive plate into a 6 pin/stud driver. Made of
hardened grade 8 steel. Replaces MTD/Cub Cadet part # 911-3043.
An alternative to the deteriorated OEM "ISO" rubber engine
mounts. Fits Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" models 680, 800, 1000, 1200, 1210, 1250,
1282, 1450 and 1650. If your tractor has two angled rails that attach to
the engine, with rubber mounts between the rails and the frame, then these
are what you need.
An alternative to the deteriorated
OEM rubber mounts. Fits Wheel Horse models C-81, C-85, C-105, C-121, C-125,
C-145, C-165, C-175 and 512-D.
New machined aluminum clutch
disc with (6) 13/32" drive holes for a 3- or 6-pin drive plate. This is a
direct replacement for Cub Cadet's OEM fiber clutch disc. Made of the highest
quality 6061 alloy; medium-grade hardness aluminum available. The edge of
the disc is turned true in my metal lathe, then the 6 holes are precision-drilled
using my milling machine in an 8" super spacer with a 6-notch masking plate.
Unlike the competition that offer the same copycat part, the drive holes
in my aluminum discs are drilled to 13/32" to reduce clutch rattle and less
chance of breakage to the drive pins. IMPORTANT
- Both pressure plates MUST be professionally resurfaced and trued-up in
a metal lathe, or severe clutch slippage may result!
5/8" i.d. Zinc-Plated Steel
Split Lock Washer and Steel Spacer. Replaces teasing spring on all Cub Cadet
narrow frame clutch drive models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122,
124 and 126. NOTE: Lock washer not for use with OEM Cub Cadet clutch
pressure spring. Use with cultivator spring kit.
Used OEM Cub Cadet drive clutch
pressure plates, professionally resurfaced and trued up in my metal lathe.
Replace deep-pitted rusted, severely worn or bent pressure plates. (When
available.)
Pedal Return Extension Spring.
Fits Cub Cadet models 73, 106, 108, 109, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169,
580, 582, 1604, 1606. Brakes and Connections-582-S/N 720000 and below, 800,
1000, 1200, 1050 S/N 756,300-799,999-Brakes and Connections, 1535 S/N
800,000-821,059-Brakes, 1806 S/N 756,300-799,999-Brakes. A must for clutch
drive tractors to prevent rattling sound and premature wear to throw-out
bearing and clutch release lever. 2-3/4" unextended length between hooks.
Replaces Cub Cadet part # 932-3015.
An engine that runs at high
rpms or at
