On the direct-drive Cub Cadet, power from the engine is through the
clutch and
driveshaft
assembly to the
transaxle
and to the rear tires. If the clutch
is severely worn or if stock (OEM) parts may slip and little power or torque
will be transferred, especially when using the tractor for competition pulling
(especially with a big engine in a fast gear), gardening or to haul heavy
loads. An engine in a competition pulling tractor that's built to the max
or runs at high RPM or at
wide
open throttle produces a lot more torque than what the engineers at Cub
Cadet originally anticipated for the driveline to handle. Therefore, the
clutch assembly is the weak point (and the
one-piece carrier and coarse spline
axles), and will need to be reinforced and built up for strength for
durability and to prevent slippage. Remember: towards the end of the track,
if the tires don't spin or the engine bogs down, then the clutch will slip
or something elsewhere in the driveline will possibly twist or break.
Types of Clutch Assemblies -
An ordinary clutch assembly for general lawn and garden use consist of a
mild steel driveshaft, composite/fiber clutch
disc and a light-weight pressure spring. But a clutch assembly for
competition pulling and/or heavy lawn and garden use consist of a heavy duty
3- or 6-pin drive plate, either a stress-proof steel or stainless steel
driveshaft, either a single- or double- OEM Cub Cadet or aftermarket
composite/fiber clutch disc, or a single
aluminum clutch disc (depending on which
class the tractor pulls in), and definitely a much stiffer pressure spring
for placing a heavier load on the clutch disc. Also, the pressure plates
will definitely need to be resurfaced until perfectly flat and trued-up in
a small metal lathe to ensure that the pressure plates will adhere to the
clutch disc to prevent slippage. Because new OEM Cub Cadet pressure plates
are made of stamped steel and are not machined whatsoever. This means they
are not perfectly flat and they wobble from the factory. If used pressure
plates have not been resurfaced before, then chances are, they'll still be
thick enough after being resurfaced. Always remove the minimal amount of
metal to retain maximum thickness so they will not warp when hot.
(IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable using
a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist with
a lathe.) The same happens to automotive flywheels and pressure
plates as the clutch disc wears. They need to be resurfaced too, when installing
a new clutch disc. And the heavier or stronger the clutch assembly is, the
more it will cost.
By the way - if the rotating clutch parts are precision balanced, installed
and adjusted correctly, the OEM Cub Cadet or aftermarket double
composite/fiber clutch disc setup will last
a long time, a lot longer than the aftermarket 3 puck metallic clutch disc.
Most double composite/fiber clutch disc setups
last 20+ years under hard pulling every year before needing servicing or
adjusting. No joke. Unlike the double composite/fiber clutch disc setup,
which requires that either the engine be moved forward 3/8" in the tractor
or the clutch release lever hanger bracket be moved rearward 3/8" (to make
room for the extra clutch disc [1/4" thickness] and center steel drive plate
[1/8" thickness]), most pullers prefer to use the 3 puck metallic clutch
disc because no modifications needs to be made to the engine mounting holes
or the clutch release lever hanger bracket.
Cub Cadet made four different 3-pin clutch drive plates. The bolt-circle
pattern for the three clutch disc drive pins/partially threaded studs and
four mounting holes are the same for all drive plates below.
-
The first clutch drive plate
is designed for the IH-built narrow- and wide-frame Cub Cadet models 70,
71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124, 126, 86, 108 and 128 with a
solid-mounted engine. It's made of flat, solid/non-flexible, 1/8" thickness
steel, with a bronze bushing (pilot bearing) pressed in the center to support
the driveshaft, and has coiled/spiral pins to drive
the clutch disc. This type of drive plate can also be used on the "Quiet
Line" ISO-mounted tractors (below Ê)
as long as solid motor mounts are installed.
It's Cub Cadet part # IH-384652-R12.
-
The second clutch drive plate is designed for the IH-built Cub Cadet "Quiet
Line" models 800, 1000 and 1200 (and models 1250, 1450 and 1650 with a
hydrostatic disconnect attachment) with an ISO-mounted engine (engine mounted
on rubber to reduce overall tractor vibration and operator discomfort). It
has a flat, thin, flexible, hardened steel center section riveted to a thicker
outer flat plate of steel, and has a self-aligning spherical bronze pilot
bushing, and has coiled/spiral pins to drive the
clutch disc. Due to the engine being mounted on rubber, which allows it to
"move around" while in operation, the thin center section in this drive plate
is notorious for cracking or breaking after just a few years of general lawn
and garden use. There is no way to prevent this damage except install
solid motor
mounts and a solid clutch drive plate (above
È). It's Cub Cadet part # IH-117591-C1.
-
The third clutch drive plate has four 1/4" holes in addition to two 3/8"
holes in the center. It's designed for the IH-built 582 with a Briggs &
Stratton opposed twin cylinder engine and certain MTD-built Cub Cadet models
580 (disc clutch drive models), 582 (disc clutch drive models), 1050, 1535,
1604 (disc clutch drive models), 1606 (disc clutch drive models) and 1806.
It's made of 1/8" thick concaved (dish-shaped) steel, and has a self-aligning
spherical bronze pilot bushing, and has partially threaded studs with nuts
to drive the clutch disc. This drive plate is a much better design over the
previous IH "ISO-mount" design because it's rigid and don't break or crack
due to the engine being mounted on rubber. Due to the dish-shaped offset
and engine placement in the tractor, this drive plate can only be used in
the IH-built 582 and the MTD-built Cub Cadets. This drive plate is universal,
and can be used in place of the drive place below. This part is no longer
available from Cub Cadet.
-
And the fourth clutch drive plate has just two 3/8" holes in the center.
This part only came on Cub Cadet garden tractors with a Briggs & Stratton
opposed twin cylinder engine. This includes certain IH- and MTD-built models
580 (disc clutch drive models), 582 (disc clutch drive models), 1050, 1535,
1604 (disc clutch drive models), 1606 (disc clutch drive models) and 1806.
It's Cub Cadet part # 903-0216.
Depending on the class your tractor is going to pull in and engine
size/modifications, there are many variations in which clutch/driveshaft
design and carrier/axles to use. Listed are the weakest to the strongest:
-
For driveshaft material, there's mild steel, 1144 Stress Proof steel, chromoly
steel and stainless steel.
-
For the clutch drive models, the wide frame driveshaft is exactly 1" longer
than the narrow frames, and the IH-built model 582 (serial number 719999
and below Ê) driveshaft has a blunt end
and 5/8" steel ball that swivels with engine movement (ISO mount) in the
center hole of the input shaft on the transaxle, and MTD-built 582 (serial
number 720000 and up) driveshaft is 1/2" longer with a pointed end that swivels
with engine movement in the center hole of the input shaft on the transaxle.
-
As for the types of clutch setups, there's the single OEM Cub Cadet or
aftermarket composite/fiber clutch disc with
a stiffer pressure spring, a single aluminum
clutch disc, also with a stiffer pressure spring, double OEM Cub Cadet
or aftermarket clutch discs with a stiffer pressure spring, the metallic
clutch disc with a stiffer pressure spring, multiple clutch discs with a
stiffer pressure spring, Volkswagen clutch/pressure plate/flywheel, etc.
-
And as for the carrier and axles, there's the OEM Cub Cadet heavy duty one-piece
carrier with either coarse or fine spline axles, OEM Cub Cadet's (MTD) two-piece
fine spline carrier and axles, Ford Pinto carrier and axles, Chrysler's 7-1/4"
carrier and axles, and Ford's 8" carrier and axles.
Using Quality Driveshaft Material Is Important!
Most driveshafts are likely to
break at the second coiled/spiral pin hole, just in front of the
clutch release/throw-out bearing. Because
that's where the most vibration usually occurs. They also break just behind
the pressure spring, in front of the
pillow block bearing, due to temporary
frame twisting (narrow frames) when pulling. If this happens, it's best to
install a split clamping/locking collar.
What mainly makes the driveshaft break at 4,000+ RPM is either...
-
Poor quality material and/or workmanship.
-
Loosening of engine to oil pan due to
use of an oil pan gasket.
-
Out-of-balance clutch parts and/or out-of-balance rotating engine parts,
which could cause harmonic vibrations
(resonance)
to travel throughout the clutch and driveshaft assembly.
-
Lack of a center support pillow block bearing
and brace installed midway on the driveshaft.
-
Lack of solid motor mounts in a "Quiet Line"
ISO-mounted engine in a Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" tractor.
-
Lack of 1/4" thick steel engine-stiffener plates installed under tractor
frame to make the engine rigid in a narrow- or wide-frame (solid-mounted
engine models) Cub Cadet with front axle is moved forward to end of frame.
-
Severe flexing of the frame on a narrow frame Cub Cadet when the frame rails
are widened and not reinforced to accommodate the larger 9-1/2" flywheel
and gear starter.
If quality driveshaft material is used, and if the rotating parts are precision
balanced and if a carrier bearing is also installed (above 4,000 RPM. The
factory setting of maximum RPM for virtually all small gas engines, including
all of Kohler engines is 3,600), the driveshaft could possibly last the life
of the tractor. Even when used in high-performance conditions.
Remember, in the direct-drive Cub Cadet, the entire clutch/driveshaft assembly
rotates the same speed as the engine. For reliability in a highly modified
tractor that turns well above 4,000 RPM, the driveshaft must be made of quality,
solid hardened steel that can resist torsional twist. Such as 1144 stress-proof
steel, heat-treated 4140 chrome-moly steel or 304 alloy stainless steel.
-
Mild steel (cold rolled; 45,000 P.S.I. strength; about the same as OEM material)
cost the least, and can be safely used in a basic stock tractor with an engine
that's limited to 4,000 RPM or for non-pulling applications. It's obviously
easy to bore holes through.
-
Stress-proof steel is heat-treated, which makes it very strong (95,000 P.S.I.
strength, which is about twice stronger than OEM driveshafts). It'll flex
with slightly out-of-balance rotating parts at high RPM or at
wide
open throttle then return to its original straightness when the speed
is reduced. It's easy to bore holes through.
-
Heat-treated chrome-moly steel is another quality material to use. It comes
in various hardnesses; from 60,000 to 100,000 P.S.I. strength. It's somewhat
easy to bore holes through.
-
304 alloy stainless steel is much more rigid than any of the above
È metals (130,000 P.S.I. strength) and
works excellent for use as driveshaft material. It require a little more
effort to bore holes through.
Advertisement:
Professionally Rebuilt (or New) Drive Clutch Assemblies for IH- and MTD-Built
Cub Cadet Garden Tractors. Clutch assemblies available for narrow and
wide, spread frame Cub Cadet garden tractors for general yard and garden
use. Parts include: New stress proof steel driveshaft, new
coiled/spiral pins, new aftermarket composite/fiber
clutch disc, new aftermarket throw-out bearing, reconditioned release lever,
new main pressure spring, new teasing spring and thrust washer, and both
pressure plates resurfaced and trued-up. 3-pin drive plate shown in pictures
above not included with clutch assemblies. All clutch purchases do not include
the rear coupler or coupler arms and flex coupler. Purchase these separately,
if needed. When ordering, please state model number of Cub Cadet. Core trade-in
must be in rebuildable condition with very few missing or damaged parts.
*The price to build or rebuild your clutch assembly depends on which parts
can be reused and which new parts are installed, and the amount of machining
is required.
Drive Clutch Assemblies for Cub Cadet "Original" Garden Tractor. Priced full
length (without creeper drive) or short length (with creeper drive unit.)
NOTE: Complete driveshaft assembly do not include the driveshaft bearing
support assembly, clutch operating support, clutch shaft bearing retainer
and collar, adjustment rod yoke end, clutch operating rod and transaxle input
shaft coupler arm. And I due to supply and demand,
do not keep complete rebuilt clutch assemblies in stock. I build them as
customers order them.
-
Rebuild YOUR clutch assembly for general lawn and garden use.
$250.00±* each, including parts and labor, with free return shipping.
-
With rebuildable core trade-in for general lawn and garden use.
$300.00 each, with free return shipping. (When available.)
-
Outright with no core trade-in for general lawn and garden use.
$400.00 each, with free shipping & handling. (When
available.)
-
Rebuild YOUR clutch assembly for heavy towing and/or competition pulling.
$500.00±* each, including parts and labor, with free return shipping.
Drive Clutch Assemblies for Narrow Frame Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Models
70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124 and 126. Priced full length
(without creeper drive) or short length (with creeper drive unit.)
NOTE: I do not keep complete rebuilt clutch
assemblies in stock. I build them as customers order them.
-
Rebuild YOUR clutch assembly for general lawn and garden use.
$200.00±* each, including parts and labor, with free return shipping.
-
With rebuildable core trade-in for general lawn and garden use.
$270.00 each, with free return shipping.
-
Outright with no core trade-in for general lawn and garden use.
$300.00 each, with free shipping & handling.
-
Rebuild YOUR clutch assembly for heavy towing and/or competition pulling.
$350.00±* each, including parts and labor, with free return shipping.
Drive Clutch Assemblies for Wide Frame Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Models 80,
108 and 128. Priced full length (without creeper drive) or short length (with
creeper drive unit.) NOTE: I do not keep complete
rebuilt clutch assemblies in stock. I build them as customers order
them.
-
Rebuild YOUR clutch assembly for general lawn and garden use.
$220.00±* each, including parts and labor, with free return shipping.
-
With rebuildable core trade-in for general lawn and garden use.
$290.00 each, with free return shipping.
-
Outright with no core trade-in for general lawn and garden use.
$320.00 each, with free shipping & handling.
-
Rebuild YOUR clutch assembly for heavy towing and/or competition pulling.
$370.00±* each, including parts and labor, with free return shipping.
Drive Clutch Assemblies for Wide Frame Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Models 800,
1000 and 1200. Priced full length (without creeper drive) or short length
(with creeper drive unit.) NOTE: I do not keep
complete rebuilt clutch assemblies in stock. I build them as customers order
them.
-
Rebuild YOUR clutch assembly for general lawn and garden use.
$220.00±* each, including parts and labor, with free return shipping.
-
With rebuildable core trade-in for general lawn and garden use.
$290.00 each, with free return shipping.
-
Outright with no core trade-in for general lawn and garden use.
$320.00 each, with free shipping & handling.
-
Rebuild YOUR clutch assembly for heavy towing and/or competition pulling.
$370.00±* each, including parts and labor, with free return shipping.
Drive Clutch Assemblies for Spread Frame Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Models
580, 582, 1250, 1450, 1650 (models with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment),
1604, 1606 and 1806. Priced full length (without creeper drive) or short
length (with creeper drive unit.) NOTE: I do
not keep complete rebuilt clutch assemblies in stock. I build them as customers
order them.
-
Rebuild YOUR clutch assembly for general lawn and garden use.
$220.00±* each, including parts and labor, with free return shipping.
-
With rebuildable core trade-in for general lawn and garden use.
$290.00 each, with free return shipping.
-
Outright with no core trade-in for general lawn and garden use.
$320.00 each, with free shipping & handling.
-
Rebuild YOUR clutch assembly for heavy towing and/or competition pulling.
$370.00±* each, including parts and labor, with free return shipping.
Drive Clutch Assembly for Spread Frame Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Model 1050.
Priced full length (without creeper drive) or short length (with creeper
drive unit.) NOTE: I do not keep complete rebuilt
clutch assemblies in stock. I build them as customers order
them.
-
Rebuild YOUR clutch assembly for general lawn and garden use.
$270.00±* each, including parts and labor, with free return shipping.
-
With rebuildable core trade-in for general lawn and garden use.
$340.00 each, with free return shipping.
-
Outright with no core trade-in for general lawn and garden use.
$370.00 each, with free shipping & handling.
-
Rebuild YOUR clutch assembly for heavy towing and/or competition pulling.
$420.00±* each, including parts and labor, with free return shipping.
If you would
like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website,
and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance and support,
please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank
Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.
When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly
with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to
the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we
can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
|
OEM
Cub Cadet 3-pin Solid Clutch Drive Plate. Designed for
IH-built Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 108, 122, 124,
126 and 128 with the solid-mounted engine. These models have the engine
fastened directly to the frame with no rubber motor mounts. If you want to
use this type of drive plate in a "Quiet Line" model 800, 1000 or 1200 with
the ISO-mounted engine, then a set of A-1 Miller's
solid motor mounts must also be installed,
making the clutch/driveshaft assembly rigid throughout so less wear will
occur to the clutch assembly. NOTE: Before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch
assembly in the tractor, apply lubricating grease to inside the pilot bushing
and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if it's dry, chances are,
the driveshaft will not release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing
and driveshaft.
-
Used and in excellent condition. $75.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. (When available.)
-
New. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-384652-R12.
$205.60 each, plus shipping &
handling.
|
OEM Cub Cadet 3-pin
Flexible Clutch Drive Plate. Designed for IH-built Cub Cadet "Quiet
Line" models 800, 1000 and 1200, including models 1250, 1450 and 1650 with
a hydrostatic disconnect attachment, with an ISO-mounted engine. All
of these models have the engine mounted on rails with ISO rubber mounts.
If this drive plate keeps breaking just after a few years of use, then either
a new set of rubber ISO-mounts will need to be installed, or a set of A-1
Miller's solid motor mounts and a solid clutch
drive plate (above) can be installed, making the clutch/driveshaft assembly
rigid throughout so less wear will occur to the clutch assembly to lessen
chances of repeated breakage. NOTE: Before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch
assembly in the tractor, apply lubricating grease to inside the pilot bushing
and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if it's dry, chances are,
the driveshaft will not release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing
and driveshaft. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part # IH-106545-C93.
-
New. OEM Cub Cadet IH-117591-C1.
$194.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
|
 (Updated 4/20/20) Cub Cadet Engine Rubber ISO-Mounts.
This replaces the mount on only one corner. Order four kits for a complete
set. Designed for IH-built Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" models 800, 1000 and
1200, including models 1250, 1450 and 1650 with a hydrostatic disconnect
attachment. All of these models have the engine mounted on rails with ISO
rubber mounts. Replace deteriorated rubber ISO-mounts to lessen chances of
clutch drive plate breakage and so less wear will occur to the clutch assembly.
Designed for IH-built Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" models 800, 1000 and 1200, including
models 1250, 1450 and 1650 with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment. All
of these models have the engine mounted on rails with ISO rubber mounts.
These rubber mounts can also be adapted for use on many other makes and models
of small engine equipment to reduce engine vibration throughout the frame.
OEM Cub Cadet part # 759-3952.
-
Rubber ISO-mount kit for only one corner.
$31.05 each per kit, plus shipping
& handling.
-
Complete rubber ISO-mount set of four kits for all four corners.
$124.25 each for set of four kits,
plus shipping & handling.
-
Go here for A-1 Miller's Solid Motor Mounts.
Replaces OEM Cub Cadet rubber ISO-mounts.
|
Weld Collars on YOUR OEM
IH Cub Cadet Drive Plate. Adds approximately 85% more strength to prevent
from bending or flexing of drive plate while under severe strain. Work includes
true-up drive plate in metal lathe to remove wobble or run-out to reduce
vibration. I can also do this to repair a customer's drive plate, as part
of the clutch rebuild. NOTE: Before installing the driveshaft/clutch assembly
in the tractor, apply lubricating grease inside the pilot bushing and/or
on the front of the driveshaft. Because if it's dry, chances are, the driveshaft
will not release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing and driveshaft.
An original, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because
nobody else advertise this type of service.
-
$30.00 labor, plus return shipping.
NOTE: Before installing the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor,
apply lubricating grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of
the driveshaft. Because if it's dry, chances are, the driveshaft will not
release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing and driveshaft. |
Repair your OEM IH Cub
Cadet garden tractor 3-pin clutch drive plate when the three OEM drive pin
collar(s) are broken off with three or six hardened steel drive studs. No
need to purchase another drive plate. Work includes true-up drive plate in
metal lathe to remove wobble or run-out to reduce vibration and for precision
alignment installation of drive studs. I can also do this to repair a customer's
drive plate, as part of the clutch rebuild. An innovative concept by Brian
Miller, because nobody else advertise this type of service.
-
$60.00, includes 3 drive studs and labor, plus return shipping &
handling.
NOTE: Before installing the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor,
apply lubricating grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of
the driveshaft. Because if it's dry, chances are, the driveshaft will not
release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing and driveshaft. |
Repair Over-Size Pilot Bushing
Hole in Drive Plate for Installation of OEM-size pilot bushing. No need to
purchase another drive plate. Work includes true-up drive plate in metal
lathe to remove wobble or run-out to reduce vibration. I can also do this
to repair a customer's drive plate, as part of the clutch rebuild. An
innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this type
of service.
-
$35.00, includes bushing(s) and labor, plus return shipping.
NOTE: Before installing the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor,
apply lubricating grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of
the driveshaft. Because if it's dry, chances are, the driveshaft will not
release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing and driveshaft. |
Convert your OEM IH or MTD Cub Cadet clutch drive plate from 3-pin (IH)
or 3-stud (MTD) to 3-pin/3-stud or 6-stud. Work includes true-up plate in
metal lathe to remove wobble or run-out to reduce vibration, precision drill
3 new holes in exact spacing of OEM pins or studs, and then install 3 additional
hardened steel studs, lock washers and nuts. I can also do this to repair
a customer's drive plate, as part of the clutch rebuild. NOTE: Clutch
disc must be precision-drilled with 3 additional holes to accept the 3 additional
drive studs. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please
accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate
them acknowledging my intelligence.)
$60.00 each drive
plate, includes parts and labor, plus return shipping & handling.
  |
 Clutch Drive Studs w/nuts and split lock washers for Cub
Cadet garden tractors.
-
High Quality Aftermarket Clutch Drive Studs w/nuts and split lock washers
for a Single Clutch Disc Setup. For general yard and garden work, or competition
stock tractor pulling. Made of hardened steel. A-1 Miller part. Dimensions:
3/8" diameter x 1-1/2" length (measured from drive plate to end of stud).
Replaces Cub Cadet part # 911-3043. $30.00 set of 3, plus shipping
& handling.
-
High Quality Clutch Drive Studs w/nuts and split lock washers for a Double
Clutch Disc Setup. For competition pulling only. Made of hardened steel.
A-1 Miller part. Dimensions: 3/8" diameter x 1-875" length (measured from
drive plate to end of stud). Replaces Cub Cadet part # 911-3043.
$60.00 set of 6, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Cub Cadet Clutch Drive Stud. Nut not included. Dimensions: 3/8" diameter
x 1-1/2" length. OEM Cub Cadet part # 911-3043. $52.10 each,
plus shipping & handling.
NOTE: Adding three additional clutch drive studs is something that
must be performed with precision machining. To install three additional clutch
drive studs in the OEM clutch drive plate and have them perfectly aligned
with the OEM drive pins and the three extra holes in the clutch disc, and
to prevent the pins from being out of balance (out of circle) and to prevent
wobble, the holes in the plate (and clutch disc) will need to be drilled
using a Super Spacer or Rotary Table that's fastened to the table of a milling
machine. Each hole must be drilled precisely at 2.5625" out from dead center
and spaced exactly at 90º from the original drive pins. This will allow
the 3 extra drive studs (and holes in clutch disc) to be positioned in exact
alignment with the OEM pins. Just like the wheel studs on an automobile.
If you want, I can professionally install three extra drive studs in your
clutch drive plate and drill three extra matching holes in your clutch disc
for $45.00 labor, which includes the 3 drive studs, plus return shipping.
I will need your clutch drive plate and clutch disc, too. |
Driveshafts for IH Cub
Cadet "Original" Garden Tractor. NOTE: These driveshafts, with
the OEM factory designed machined-down 3/8" diameter support end, are originally
used with Cub Cadet coupler arm with the 25/64" center hole
(part # 759-3009). But with a 5/8" diameter support
end (A-1 Miller's improved design), the driveshaft can be used instead with
Cub Cadet coupler arm with the 5/8" center hole (part
# 748-3001). Due to the increase in material, less wear will occur to
the end of the driveshaft and hole in the coupler arm. Available
only in 1144 Stress Proof steel. (95,000 P.S.I. strength.) Not available
in stainless steel. Please indicate with 3/8" or 5/8" stub end.
Coiled/Spiral pins sold
separately. (Scroll down). Driveshafts comes with flat steel coupler
arm welded to shaft and coiled/spiral pin holes drilled.
-
A-1 Miller's Replicated Part. When ordering, please specify with or without
creeper drive. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-376255-R11.(Part number listed
is without creeper drive; no part number available for driveshaft with creeper
drive.) $60.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
New. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-376255-R11. (Part number listed is without creeper
drive; no part number available for driveshaft with creeper drive.)
$145.60 each, plus shipping & handling.
Driveshafts for Clutch Drive
IH and MTD-built Cub Cadet Models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 106,
108, 122, 124, 126, 128, 580, 582, 800, 1000, 1050, 1200, 1604, 1606 and
1806, including models 1250, 1450 and 1650 with a hydrostatic disconnect
attachment. NOTE: These driveshafts are made to
order. When ordering, please specify model of Cub Cadet and possibly exact
length and exactly where the coiled/spiral pin holes needs to be drilled.
Please indicate if you want the 3rd hole drilled for the main pressure spring
or if you are going to use a split clamping/locking
collar instead. For competition pulling, it is recommended that a
split clamping/locking collar be used.
Driveshafts for double composite/fiber clutch discs are available. For a
tractor without a driveshaft/clutch assembly, to determine the exact length
of the driveshaft, with engine fastened to the tractor frame, measure between
the end of the crankshaft threads or bolt head to the input shaft in the
transaxle (or creeper drive input shaft), then subtract 1/4". This will allow
an 1/8" clearance on each end. Driveshafts for hydrostatic drive Cub Cadets
are also available below.
Ê
IMPORTANT: Before installing the
driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, if the drive plate has a bronze
pilot bushing, apply clean lubricating grease inside the bushing and on the
front of the driveshaft. Because if it's installed dry, the driveshaft may
not release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing and driveshaft. No
grease is required on the driveshaft if a radial ball bearing is installed
the drive plate.
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1144 Stress-Proof Steel (95,000 P.S.I. strength; suitable for general
lawn and garden use, or stock to mildly modified competition pulling tractors.)
-
A-1 Miller's Part. Up to 20" in length with no holes drilled. (Customer cuts
shaft to length and drills own holes.)
$12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
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A-1 Miller's Replicated Part. Please specify model of Cub Cadet when ordering.
Comes with 1/4"
coiled/spiral
pin holes drilled and chamfered in stock locations unless otherwise
specified, with the exception of the 3rd hole which is optional for use with
a split clamping/locking collar. Replaces
Cub Cadet part #'s IH-385982-R91 and IH-385982-R91. $50.00 each, plus
shipping & handling.
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New. Driveshaft for Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106,
122, 124 and 126. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-385982-R91. $174.50 each,
plus shipping & handling.
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New. Driveshaft for Cub Cadet models 86, 108 and 128. OEM Cub Cadet part
# IH-545492-R91. $148.15 each, plus shipping & handling.
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New. Driveshaft for Cub Cadet models 800, 1000 and 1200, including models
1250, 1450 and 1650 with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment. OEM Cub Cadet
part # IH-61454-C94. $162.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
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New. Driveshaft for clutch drive Cub Cadet models 580, 582, 1604, 1606 and
1806. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-223276-C1. $236.45 each, plus shipping
& handling.
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304 Alloy Stainless Steel (130,000 P.S.I. strength, nonmagnetic and
extremely tough material; recommended for competition pulling tractors,
especially with a 50.5 C.I., modified V-twin or Diesel engine.)
-
A-1 Miller's Part. Up to 20" in length with no holes for drilled. (Customer
cuts shaft to length and drills own holes.)
$15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
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A-1 Miller's Replicated Part. Please specify model of Cub Cadet when ordering.
Comes with 1/4"
coiled/spiral
pin holes drilled and chamfered in stock locations unless otherwise
specified, with the exception of the 3rd hole which is optional for use with
two split clamping/locking collars. Replaces
Cub Cadet part #'s IH-385982-R91 and IH-385982-R91. $60.00 each, plus
shipping & handling.
Driveshafts for Hydrostatic
Drive IH Cub Cadet Models 105, 107, 123, 125, 127, 147, 109, 129, 149, 169,
682, 782, 784, 1541, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1810, 1811, 1812 and 1860. NOTE:
These driveshafts, with the OEM factory designed machined-down 3/8" diameter
support end, are originally used with Cub Cadet coupler arm with the 25/64"
center hole (part # 759-3009). But with a 5/8" diameter
support end (A-1 Miller's improved design), the driveshaft can be used instead
with Cub Cadet coupler arm with the 5/8" center hole (part
# 748-3001). Due to the increase in material, less wear will occur to
the end of the driveshaft and hole in the coupler arm. Available
only in 1144 Stress Proof steel. (95,000 P.S.I. strength.) Not available
in stainless steel. Driveshaft comes with flat steel coupler arm welded to
shaft and coiled/spiral pin holes drilled. Please indicate with 3/8" or
5/8" stub end. Coiled/Spiral
pins sold separately. (Scroll down). Please specify with or
without creeper drive.
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A-1 Miller's Replicated Part. When ordering, please specify model of tractor
and if a 3/8" or 5/8" stub end is desired. Replaces Cub Cadet part #
IH-397373-R2 for models 105, 107, 123, 125, 127, 147; and part # IH-545511-R1
for models 109, 129, 149 and 169. $60.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
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New. Driveshaft for models 105, 107, 123, 125, 127 and 147. OEM Cub Cadet
part # IH-397373-R2. $148.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
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New. Driveshaft for models 109, 129, 149 and 169. OEM Cub Cadet part #
IH-545511-R1. $96.10 each, plus shipping & handling.
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New. Driveshaft for models 682, 782, 784, 1541, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1810, 1811,
1812 and 1860. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-132441-C2. $89.10 each, plus
shipping & handling.
Driveshafts for Hydrostatic
Drive Cub Cadet Models 1250, 1450 and 1650.
Coiled/Spiral
pins sold separately. (Scroll down.)
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1144 Stress Proof Steel (95,000 P.S.I. strength) -
-
A-1 Miller's Part. With no holes drilled. (Customer
drills own holes.) $12.00 each,
plus shipping & handling.
-
A-1 Miller's Replicated Part. Comes with 1/4"
coiled/spiral
pin holes drilled and chamfered in stock locations unless otherwise
specified. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-140079-C1.$35.00 each, plus
shipping & handling.
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New. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-140079-C1. $87.20 each, plus shipping
& handling.
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304 Alloy Stainless Steel (130,000 P.S.I. strength) -
-
With no holes drilled. (Customer drills own
holes.) $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
With 1/4"
coiled/spiral
pin holes drilled and chamfered in stock locations unless otherwise
specified. $45.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Driveshafts for Hydrostatic
Drive MTD-built Cub Cadet Models 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 882, 982, 1210,
1211, 1282, 1512, 1541, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1810, 1811, 1812 and 1860.
Coiled/Spiral
pins sold separately. (Scroll down.)
-
1144 Stress Proof Steel (95,000 P.S.I. strength) -
-
A-1 Miller's Part. With no holes drilled; customer
drills own holes. $12.00 each,
plus shipping & handling.
-
A-1 Miller's Replicated Part. With 1/4"
coiled/spiral
pin holes drilled and chamfered in stock locations unless otherwise
specified. When ordering, please specify model of Cub Cadet. $35.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
New. Driveshaft for models 680, 1210, 1211 and 1282. OEM Cub Cadet part #
IH-140079-C1. $87.25 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
New. Driveshaft for models 682, 782, 784, 982, 1541, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1810,
1811, 1812, 1860. OEM Cub Cadet part # 738-3011. $89.10 each, plus
shipping & handling.
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New. Driveshaft for models 782D, 882, 1512. OEM Cub Cadet part # 738-3051.
$68.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
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304 Alloy Stainless Steel (130,000 P.S.I. strength) -
-
With no holes drilled; customer drills own
holes. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
With 1/4"
coiled/spiral
pin holes drilled and chamfered in stock locations unless otherwise
specified. When ordering, please specify model of Cub Cadet. $45.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in
purchasing any of the parts or items in this website. If you need a part
or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and
we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top
of Page]
Replacement
Coiled/Spiral Pins for Cub Cadet Driveshafts and 3-Pin Clutch Drive Plate.
Each made of high strength, heat treated, hardened carbon steel. Minimum
Rockwell hardness is C42. NOTE: The driveshafts with or without a creeper
drive use the same number of coiled/spiral pins. There's two for the pressure
plates (1-1/2" length), one behind the main pressure spring (1" length),
and two in the rear coupler (1" length for the small diameter coupler, or
1-1/2" length for the large diameter coupler). NOTE - On the narrow frame
Cub Cadets, a grade 8 bolt w/locknut can be used to connect the coupler to
the input shaft in the transaxle for much easier installation and removal.
[Return To Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
Coiled/Spiral Pins for IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor driveshaft.
3,100 P.S.I. breaking strength.
-
3/16" diameter x 1-1/2" length. For front pressure plate. .75¢
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
3/16" diameter x 1" length. For splined carrier and behind main pressure
spring (hole must be drilled exactly to 3/16".) .75¢ each, plus
shipping & handling.
Coiled/Spiral Pins for all other models of Cub Cadet garden tractor driveshafts
-
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Normal Duty; 5,500 P.S.I. breaking strength. Suitable for general lawn and
garden use.
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1/4" diameter x 1" length. For behind main pressure spring and small diameter
rear coupler or T-shaped flex joint coupler. $1.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
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1/4" diameter x 1-1/2" length. For each pressure plate and large diameter
round rear coupler. $1.25 each, plus shipping & handling.
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Heavy Duty; 7,500 P.S.I. breaking strength. Suitable for competition pulling
tractors.
-
1/4" diameter x 1" length. For behind main pressure spring and small diameter
rear coupler. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
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1/4" diameter x 1-1/2" length. For each clutch pressure plate and large diameter
rear coupler. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Coiled/Spiral Pins for OEM Cub Cadet 3-pin clutch drive plate and drag link
steering arm on narrow frame Cub Cadets. 12,600 P.S.I. breaking strength.
Dimensions: 3/8" diameter x 1-1/2" length. NOTE: The holes in the drag
link arm and spindle shaft may need to be drilled (enlarged) exactly to 3/8"
(.375") for this pin to fit snug. $3.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. |
Use quality coiled/spiral pins for driveshafts to prevent the possibility
of pin breakage. Coiled/Spiral pins are much stronger than the spring-type
or C-shaped coiled/spiral pins. And all Cub Cadet driveshafts require the
coiled/spiral roll-pins. Also, use a quality-made 1/4" roll-pin punch tool
to remove the roll-pins. And whenever a roll-pin is removed, one end will
probably get "mushroomed" or flared out. Making reinstallation almost impossible.
So before reinstalling reusable roll-pins, ground the burr off the end of
it, and ground a chamfer on the end (grind to a dull point) to make the
installation easier. (Remember to wear safety glasses!)
Removing Coiled/Spiral Pins -
Personally, I use 2 lb. hammer and a quality-made 1/4" coiled/spiral pin
punch to drive the pins out of the driveshaft and rear rigid tubular coupler.
I've had some stubborn pins before, but they've always drove out with
determination, and no damage to anything (except to the pin itself).
Coiled/Spiral pins can't be drilled out either because they're just as hard
as a high quality drill bit. Or if the coiled/spiral pin is really stubborn,
it can be heated with an
oxy-acetylene torch. This will cause the spring-action
or outward expansion of the pin to weaken and collapse, then it can be driven
out much easier. Be careful not to melt the pin with the torch! Doing this
could make it much more difficult to remove.
When to Use a Split Clamping/Locking Collar
on the Driveshaft - (Updated 11/2/16)
The only reason a split
clamping/locking collar is needed behind the pressure
spring is for competition pulling and when the engine turns at high RPMs
or at wide open throttle. When a center support
pillow block bearing and brace (that's welded to the inside of the tractor
frame) is used to stabilize the driveshaft and prevent wobble at high RPMs.
The collar lessens the chance of driveshaft breakage when a hole is drilled
for the 3rd coiled/spiral pin, and when or if the driveshaft flexes under
pulling strain. If a stock engine will never turn above 4,000 RPM, then a
split clamping/locking collar shouldn't be needed on the driveshaft because
the driveshaft will not wobble as much. On a stock tractor with a 4,000±
RPM engine, instead of using a clamping/locking collar, install a thick washer
in place of the collar, with a long steel tube on the driveshaft extending
from the washer butted against the rear driveshaft coupler. A 3rd coiled/spiral
pin hole will not be required, too.
The split clamping/locking collar can also be used on front of the IH Cub
Cadet "Original" driveshaft to prevent driveshaft from moving rearward when
clutch pedal is depressed.
Moreover, when using a stainless steel driveshaft, due to the "slickness"
and hardness of the metal, just one split clamping/locking collar may slip
rearward when the clutch pedal is fully depressed. Sometimes even using two
collars will slip also. So to prevent the collar(s) from slipping, install
flat washers behind the collar and in front of the
center support pillow block bearing and brace
so the pressure will be placed against the bearing, and the bearing will
hold the collar in place. And a single split clamping/locking collar will
grip mild or 1144 stress proof steel with no problems.
[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
Advertisement:
If you would
like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website,
and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance and support,
please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank
Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.
When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly
with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to
the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we
can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
|
5/8" I.D. Split clamping/locking
collars. With the drilled 3rd coiled/spiral pin hole not present in the
driveshaft, this part stiffens the driveshaft in the middle 100%, and it
helps prevent driveshaft breakage at 4,000 RPM (without a center support
pillow block bearing and brace installed), and when used with a center support
pillow block bearing and brace, this prevents the driveshaft from "wobbling
around", which could break at higher RPMs or at wide open throttle. Position
collar at 9-1/4" from front of driveshaft. This will compress the main pressure
spring to 4-1/2" once installed and clutch assembly is reassembled (with
the clutch/brake pedal not fully depressed). Can also be used on front of
the IH Cub Cadet "Original" driveshaft to prevent driveshaft from moving
rearward when clutch pedal is depressed. Has two Allen head screws that holds
the clamp together and provide a very tight uniform 360° grip around
the driveshaft. NOTE: With a stainless steel driveshaft, it's best to
use two split clamping/locking collars or a pillow block bearing with an
eccentric locking collar because just one split collar might slip on the
"slick" and hardened surface of stainless steel.
-
Two-Piece clamping/locking collar. $3.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
One-Piece clamping/locking collar. $7.50 each, plus shipping
& handling.
|
Driveshaft
Center Support Pillow Blocks with self-aligning 5/8" ball bearing and
high quality cast iron housing. For use in all models of IH- and MTD-built
Cub Cadet competition garden pulling tractors. Center to center of mounting
holes: 3-3/4". Use with steel support brace below
Ê. NOTE: Either of these are
required only for Cub Cadet competition pulling tractors with an engine that
run at high RPM or wide open throttle to stabilize driveshaft from wobbling
and prevent breakage. Install just behind main pressure spring on driveshaft.
See pictures of correct installation below.
Ê
[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
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Pillow Block Bearing w/Set Screw Collar. $20.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
Pillow Block Bearing w/Eccentric Locking Collar. $30.00 each, plus
shipping & handling.
Steel Angled Driveshaft Support
Brace for use with Pillow Block Bearing above
È. Made of 1/8" thickness x 2-1/2" width
angled steel with holes for pillow block drilled. Super tough, will not break,
even under severe vibration. For use in all models of IH- and MTD-built Cub
Cadet competition garden pulling tractors. NOTE: Before welding this brace
between the Cub Cadet frame rails, first install pillow block bearing w/housing
on assembled driveshaft, connect driveshaft to transaxle and engine, tighten
engine mounting bolts to tractor frame, then fasten this angle brace to pillow
block bearing. This will guarantee the pillow block bearing and brace is
in perfect alignment and centered with the driveshaft. Otherwise, the driveshaft
will be noisy. Then permanently weld angle brace to tractor frame rails.
See correct installation below. Ê
$20.00 each, plus shipping & handling. An ingenious and innovative
concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of
this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.)
[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
High
Quality Pillow Block Bearings and Steel Angled Driveshaft Support Brace with
Grade 8 Bolts and Nuts. (Package deals.) For use in all models of IH-
and MTD-built Cub Cadet competition garden pulling tractors. An ingenious
and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat
products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.)
[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
-
Pillow Block Bearing w/Set Screw Collar and Support Brace w/Grade 8 Bolts/Nuts.
$35.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Pillow Block Bearing w/Eccentric Locking Collar and Support Brace w/Grade
8 Bolts/Nuts. $45.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
 |
Do this only if the front
axle has been moved forward -
On the narrow frame Cub Cadets, if the front axle has been
moved forward, reinforce the frame rails where the engine mounting holes
are to reduce normal high-RPM engine vibration travel that could lead to
both frame and driveshaft breakage. To do so, stiffen the frame rails where
the engine mounting bolt holes are by welding two 1/4" thick steel plates
under the frame. Longer engine mounting bolts must be used, too. The reason
for this is because when the front axle center support is moved, the remaining
frame material isn't thick enough to hold up to the engine vibration.
For the spread frame models with the ISO (rubber) motor mounts, replace the
rubber mounts with a set of our solid steel motor mounts or remove the brackets
and fabricate a minimum 1/4" thick plate steel, set it at the right height
and weld it to the frame. But the engine mounting holes and oil drain plug
hole must be properly located (centered) and drilled in the plate first.
This is much easier to do on a
platform work table.
[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
Cub Cadet Engine Mounting Brackets and Plates:
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
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How to Remove the Driveshaft/Clutch Assembly
from a Cub Cadet: (This is much easier to do on a
platform work table.)
-
Remove the engine. The 3-pin clutch drive plate remains on the engine and
it slides out of the driveshaft and clutch disc when the engine is removed.
-
Unfasten the clutch release lever from the frame
and clutch adjustment/release rod.
-
There's a coiled/spiral pin in the tubular or flex arm driveshaft coupler
that fastens onto the input shaft in the transaxle. Remove it by using a
1/4" coiled/spiral pin punch and a medium sized hammer.
The coiled/spiral pin in
the input shaft on the transaxle of a narrow frame Cub Cadet garden tractor
can be very difficult to remove and somewhat difficult to access from underneath.
Therefore, it's recommended that a 1" hole should be drilled through the
top of a short tunnel cover (center section of the tractor frame), or through
the side of a tall tunnel cover in direct alignment with the coiled/spiral
pin, then use a long 1/4" roll pin punch and medium size hammer to drive
the pin from the coupler. Don't attempt to drill-out the coiled/spiral pin.
They're just as hard as a high quality drill bit. After the pin is removed
and the clutch assembly is rebuilt, upon reinstallation in the tractor, use
a socket in the drilled hole to fasten a hardened steel 1/4" diameter
[grade 8 or Allen head] bolt in the coupler.
For cosmetic purpose, hide the
drilled hole with a 1" plastic or metal hole plug. Just push the plug in
the hole for a nice distinctive look. And sometimes when driving out
the coiled/spiral pin, the pounding will bend the input shaft in the transaxle.
If this happens, the input shaft will need to be straightened (and hope it
doesn't break later because the metal has been weakened) or a good used input
shaft will need to be installed. This is why it's highly recommended that
a hardened steel 1/4" bolt/lock nut be used in the coupler in place of the
coiled/spiral pin because if the driveshaft ever needs to be removed again,
removing a bolt/lock nut would be a lot easier than driving out a stubborn
coiled/spiral pin. Plus, it'll be easier on your nerves and on the input
shaft.
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The driveshaft assembly then slides out of the tractor.
How to Disassemble the Clutch Components from the Driveshaft -
To disassemble the clutch components from the driveshaft, first place the
front pressure plate hub on slightly open jaws of a bench vise, and use a
quality-made 1/4" coiled/spiral pin punch and a medium size hammer to drive
out the coiled/spiral pin. Then the pressure plates, clutch disc
clutch release/throw-out bearing and pressure
spring should all slide off the driveshaft.
Fasten the Coupler Arms Together To Make One Rigid Driveshaft Coupler
-
With
solid motor mounts installed in a Cub Cadet
that originally came with an ISO-mounted engine, the driveshaft will not
be able to "move" with the engine and there'll be less chance of clutch parts
prematurely wearing or breaking. The flexible rubber disc(s) at the end of
the driveshaft will be useless too, and could deteriorate over time. So instead
of replacing the OEM coupler arms with a machined rigid tubular coupler,
make the coupler arms rigid by removing the flexible rubber disc(s) and install
a couple of 3/8" thickness spacers for a single disc, and a couple of 3/4"
thickness spacers for double composite/fiber clutch discs, and fasten the
arms together with a couple of 3/8" diameter hardened steel bolts. (Large
nuts are used as spacers in the picture to the right.) By the way - one rubber
flex disc is 3/8" thick. This setup is just as strong as using a rigid tubular
coupler, and it cost a lot less.
If the outer parts of the
two arms don't come together or meet when the bolts are tightened (be careful
not to tighten the bolts too tight if the arms don't meet, they could break),
a couple of thin flat washers may need to be added as shims next to the spacers.
And before fastening the arms together with the spacers, first slide the
arms on the driveshaft so they'll be in perfect alignment with each other,
and tighten the bolts. See the picture to the right. Also, if you want, leave
out the 5/8" diameter [swivel/spacer] steel ball. It'll serve no purpose
when using solid motor mounts and when making
the coupler arms rigid.
FYI - Many pullers convert the hydrostatic drive Cub Cadet models 109,
129, 149 and 169 (wide frames, solid mounted engine) and models 1250, 1450
and 1650 (wide frames, ISO-mounted engine) into a clutch-drive tractor. All
that's needed are the clutch assembly with the hanger bracket for the
release lever and a complete transaxle out of
a model 86, 108, 128 (wide frames, solid mounted engine) or models 800, 1000
or 1200 (wide frames, ISO-mounted engine) gear drive Cub Cadet. A set of
my solid motor mounts will be needed also
if the tractor originally has the ISO rubber motor mounts. The braking mechanism
out of a wide frame Cub Cadet will also be needed.
Do not fasten the two coupler
arms directly together on the IH Cub Cadet "Original" because the driveshaft
needs to move up or down to tighten the drive belt with the engine. Leave
the flexible rubber disc in place, even for pulling competition. Or a 5/8"
I.D. universal joint can be installed instead.
A rigid tubular rear driveshaft
coupler with a worn center can be repaired by boring out the center and
installing a press-fit steel sleeve. Then ream the sleeve to .626" for a
slip-fit on the driveshaft. Then the holes
for the coiled/spiral pins can be drilled. The boring and reaming process
should be performed on a milling machine with a self-centering 3-jaw super
spacer or in a metal lathe with a self-centering 3-jaw chuck.
(IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable using
a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist with
a lathe.)
Installing a coiled/spiral pin
in the rear of the driveshaft to connect the coupler to the input shaft on
the transaxle of a Cub Cadet can be very difficult. To make it much easier,
simply use a 1/4" grade 8 bolt instead. For strength, the shank (unthreaded
part) of the bolt needs to have full contact with the coupler and driveshaft.
And as long as the driveshaft is in correct alignment with the centerline
of the crankshaft and transaxle input shaft, with the coiled/spiral pin holes
in-line with each other, and not offset 90°, at around 4,000 RPM, this
should not cause the driveshaft to "shake around" or vibrate whatsoever.
At high RPM or at
wide
open throttle, a center support pillow
block bearing and brace should be used midway on the driveshaft.
For pulling applications, rubber motor mounts (and the flexible coupler at
the rear of the driveshaft) absorbs valuable horsepower, which must be
transferred to the rear tires for full power to the track. The rubber motor
mounts will also cause the engine to vibrate excessively at high RPM or at
wide
open throttle. Plus, with normal use of the tractor, rubber motor mounts
could cause the flexible 3-pin drive plate and/or the driveshaft to eventually
break. If a tractor that has rubber motor mounts and a flexible coupler is
going to be used for competition pulling, definitely install some metal motor
mounts.
The Correct Way to Drill a Hole for a
Roll, Coiled or Spiral Pin so the Hole Will Not Be Too Big for the Pin
-
First of all, when using a milling machine, use a
spotting drill bit, or use a
center punch or
transfer punch to locate exactly where the hole needs to
be drilled to prevent the drill bit from "skating" on the surface. This will
position and guide the drill bit to bore EXACTLY where the hole needs to
be drilled. And due to the natural expansion of a roll, coiled or coiled/spiral
pin, ALWAYS drill the hole with a drill bit that's one size smaller than
the actual size for the roll, coiled or coiled/spiral pin's size, to allow
for sufficient compression of the pin when installed in the hole. For example:
for a 1/4" roll, coiled or coiled/spiral pin, initially drill the hole with
a 15/64" drill bit (one size smaller than the 1/4" drill bit), then finish
enlarging the same hole with a 1/4" drill bit. Doing this will guarantee
the hole will be EXACTLY 1/4" in diameter. If the hole is initially drilled
with just the 1/4" bit, chances are, this will cause the hole to be wallowed
out, making it too big for the 1/4" roll, coiled or coiled/spiral pin.
[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
Advertisement:
If
you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this
website, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance
and support, please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501
W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.
When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly
with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to
the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we
can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
|
Solid Motor Mounts for Cub
Cadet "Quiet Line" Tractors - Replace Deteriorated "ISO" Rubber Motor Mounts
with a Set of Machined Solid Steel Motor Mounts! An original,
ingenious, innovative concept invention by Brian Miller, because I was the
one who originally thought of, promoted and advertised the use of this product.
Please accept no copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them
acknowledging my intelligence.)
Details include:
-
Solid motor mounts are an
alternative to replacing deteriorated OEM "ISO" rubber engine mounts, which
is usually associated with a damaged "flexible" 3-pin clutch drive plate
and damaged clutch components. These fit IH Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" garden
tractor models 482, 800, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282,
1340, 1450 and 1650. If the engine in your tractor is mounted on angled cradles
with rubber mounts between the cradles and tractor frame, then these are
what your tractor need.
-
Direct replacement for OEM
ISO-rubber mounts with no modifications to the tractor whatsoever. The solid
motor mounts install between the engine mounting cradles and tractor frame.
A thick flat washer fastens on top of the cradles. Torque the bolts at 35
ft. lb. Can be easily removed if rubber mounts are desired instead.
-
For general lawn and garden use, heavy towing, pushing snow or competition
pulling. A MUST for competition pulling (or even everyday use) because these
stabilize the engine and entire clutch assembly to prevent severe engine
vibration at high RPM or at
wide
open throttle, which can destroy the flexible 3-pin clutch drive plate,
clutch disc and driveshaft components. These solid motor mounts weigh about
1 lb.
-
Precision machined by A-1 Miller so they set the engine crankshaft height
at the correct alignment with the driveshaft.
-
FYI - Rubber motor mounts are intended for operator comfort from engine vibration
only. The ISO-mount tractors with solid motor mounts installed would feel
and operate just like the tractors with a solid mounted engine. Some people
who installed these solid motor mounts just to mow grass tell A-1 Miller's
that the mounts don't cause their tractor to vibrate much at all, but others
have installed them and said the vibration is unbearable. If the entire tractor
vibrates severely after these mounts are installed, then the rotating assembly
in the engine and/or the flywheel is obviously out of balance and needs to
be professionally rebalanced by an automotive/race engine machine shop. Because
the old Kohlers was balanced through the 1960's-70's with old fashioned and
out-dated technology, which is not as precision with today's computerized
balancing technology. (The IH Cub Cadet engineers obviously knew the older
Kohler engines were out of balance and would vibrate, this is the only reason
they installed rubber motor mounts in their "Quiet Line" tractors.) So if
you want, try these solid mounts, and if you don't like them, return them
for a full refund, less shipping & handling. Or to minimize the vibration,
either install a set of OEM Cub Cadet ISO rubber mounts or have the rotating
engine parts (crankshaft/piston/connecting rod and flywheel)
dynamically and precision spin-balanced with
up-to-date technology for a smoother running engine. And the two factory-welded
cross bars between the cradles is for with an aluminum oil pan. The cross
bars is used on models 1204, 1210, 1211, 1282 and 1340. It is not required
with a cast iron oil pan or with solid motor mounts.
|
 (Updated 4/20/20) Cub Cadet Engine Rubber ISO-Mounts.
This replaces the mount on only one corner. Order four kits for a complete
set. Designed for IH-built Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" models 800, 1000 and
1200, including models 1250, 1450 and 1650 with a hydrostatic disconnect
attachment. All of these models have the engine mounted on rails with ISO
rubber mounts. Replace deteriorated rubber ISO-mounts to lessen chances of
clutch drive plate breakage and so less wear will occur to the clutch assembly.
Designed for IH-built Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" models 800, 1000 and 1200, including
models 1250, 1450 and 1650 with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment. All
of these models have the engine mounted on rails with ISO rubber mounts.
These rubber mounts can also be adapted for use on many other makes and models
of small engine equipment to reduce engine vibration throughout the frame.
OEM Cub Cadet part # 759-3952.
-
Rubber ISO-mount kit for only one corner.
$31.05 each per kit, plus shipping
& handling.
-
Complete rubber ISO-mount set of four kits for all four corners.
$124.25 each for set of four kits,
plus shipping & handling.
|
OEM-Thickness
Bronze Pilot Bushing. Fits all pre-1981 gear drive IH-built Cub Cadet models
70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 106, 108, 122, 124, 126 and 128, except
"Quiet Line" models. This is also the replacement bushing for the IH Cub
Cadet "Original" clutch disc/pulley. Dimensions: 5/8" I.D. x 7/8" O.D. x
3/4" length. IMPORTANT: To prevent the replacement pilot bushing from
wearing, both pressure plates should be resurfaced and trued-up in a metal
lathe, and before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor,
apply lubricating grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of
the driveshaft. Because if the bushing is dry, chances are, the driveshaft
will not release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing and driveshaft.
-
High quality aftermarket. $4.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-376265-R2. $6.80 each, plus shipping &
handling.
|
Thin-Wall Bronze
Pilot Bushing Insert for installing inside a worn OEM bronze pilot bushing
in all pre-1981 gear drive IH Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102,
104, 106, 108, 122, 124, 126 and 128, except "Quiet Line" models. Can also
be used inside the OEM bushing in the IH Cub Cadet "Original" clutch disc/pulley.
Dimensions: 5/8" I.D. x 3/4" O.D. x 3/4" length. NOTE: Worn OEM bushing
must be precision center-bored to .750" in a metal lathe so this bushing
will have a press fit. IMPORTANT: To prevent the replacement pilot
bushing from wearing, both pressure plates should be resurfaced and trued-up
in a metal lathe, and before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch assembly
in the tractor, apply lubricating grease inside the pilot bushing and/or
on the front of the driveshaft. Because if the bushing is dry, chances are,
the driveshaft will not release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing
and driveshaft. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
Replacement
Self-Aligning Spherical Bronze Bushing w/Outer Steel Race/Retainer. Fits
pilot bushing retainers below and input shaft coupler arm further below in
Cub Cadet ISO-mount garden models 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782,
782D, 784, 800, 882, 982, 984, 1000, 1050, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250,
1282, 1450, 1512, 1541, 1572, 1604, 1606, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1772, 1806,
1810, 1811, 1860, 1872, 1912, 1914 and 2072. Install with hammer and socket.
IMPORTANT: To prevent the replacement pilot bushing from wearing, both
pressure plates should be resurfaced and trued-up in a metal lathe, and before
reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply lubricating
grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because
if the bushing is dry, chances are, the driveshaft will not release, it can
bind up and wear both the bushing and driveshaft. OEM Cub Cadet part
# 941-3004. $39.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
 Driveshaft Tubular Couplers. OEM stock-length (replaces
Cub Cadet part # IH-394036-R1) or 3" aftermarket rigid tubular carbon steel
driveshaft one-piece rigid tubular couplers for Cub Cadet models 70, 71,
72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 106, 108, 122, 124, 126 and 128. For an OEM
stock-length coupler, having a 2" longer than stock coupler (with the 2"
extended on the driveshaft end) will help stabilize the driveshaft to reduce
overall tractor vibration and help the coupler last longer. For a custom-length
coupler, exact locations where the coiled/spiral pin holes need to be drilled
are required. Custom-length rigid tubular driveshaft couplers, up to 6" length
are available. To find the location of the coiled/spiral pin holes, install
the driveshaft in the tractor with the engine fastened to the frame with
a couple of bolts, make sure the clutch disc is midway on the drive pins,
then measure precisely from the rear coiled/spiral pin hole on the driveshaft
to the coiled/spiral pin hole in the input shaft in the transaxle, then add
3/4" for the overall length of the coupler. And one-piece couplers to replace
rubber flex coupler(s) and T-arms on AQS (Quiet Line) Cub Cadet models 800,
1000, 1050 and 1200 when using solid motor
mounts. The 800, 1000 and 1200 coupler will come with two roll pin holes
for single or double rubber flex coupler(s). NOTE:
The 3" aftermarket coupler is used only for competition pulling tractors
with a shortened driveshaft so the input shaft/pinion drive gear can be changed
to vary the ground speed of the tractor. And when ordering, please specify
model of Cub Cadet, overall length and coiled/spiral pin hole
locations.
-
Coupler without holes drilled for the coiled/spiral-pins. (Customer
drills own
holes.) Any length up to 6". $5.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
Coupler with holes drilled for the coiled/spiral-pins. (Holes are
drilled in alignment with each other to maintain proper balance.) Any
length up to 6". $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Round Retainer with Pressed-In Self-Aligning Spherical Pilot Bushing. Fits
Cub Cadet ISO-mount garden tractor models 800, 1000, 1200, 1250, 1450 and
1650. OEM Cub Cadet IH-126205-C2. $97.50 each, plus shipping &
handling. |
Rectangular Flange with Pressed-In Self-Aligning Spherical Bronze Pilot Bushing.
Fits Cub Cadet ISO-mount garden tractor models 680, 682, 782, 784, 1204,
1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1541, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1810, 1811, 1812,
1860, 1872 and 2072. OEM Cub Cadet part # 903-0204. $31.10 each, plus
shipping & handling. |
Rectangular Flange with Pressed-In Self-Aligning Spherical Bronze Pilot Bushing.
Fits Cub Cadet ISO-mount garden tractor models 782D, 882, 1512, 1572 and
1772. Discontinued from Cub Cadet. OEM Cub Cadet part # 703-0231.
$45.00 each with new bushing, plus shipping & handling. (When
available.) |
Rectangular Flange with Pressed-In Self-Aligning Spherical Bronze Pilot Bushing.
Fits Cub Cadet ISO-mount garden tractor models Fits models 982, 984, 986,
1912 and 1914. OEM Cub Cadet part # 903-1492. $42.10 each, plus shipping
& handling. |
Transaxle
Input Shaft Coupler Arm. Fits IH Cub Cadet "Original" and models 105, 107,
109, 123, 125, 127, 129, 147, 149 and 169. 25/64" bolt holes spaced 3" apart
with a 25/64" center hole for support end of driveshaft.
[Return To Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
-
A-1 Miller's Repair Service - Weld up worn center hole in YOUR coupler arm
and precision redrill hole to original size. $25.00 labor, plus return
shipping & handling.
-
Used and in excellent condition. OEM Cub Cadet part # 759-3009. $50.00
each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
-
New. OEM Cub Cadet part # 759-3009. $89.75 each, plus shipping &
handling.
|
Driveshaft
(or Input Shaft) Coupler Arm. Fits Cub Cadet models 482, 580, 582, 680, 682,
782, 784, 782D, 800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250,
1282, 1450, 1512, 1541, 1604, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812
and 1860. 25/64" bolt holes spaced 3" apart with a 5/8" center hole.
NOTE: This particular part goes on the driveshaft and not on the input
shaft of the transaxle. Additional Note: This part can be substituted
for the coupler arm above when used on the transaxle input shaft with end
of driveshaft at 5/8". Due to the increase in material, less wear will occur
to the end of the driveshaft and hole in the coupler arm. (A-1 Miller's improved
design.) Can also be used in an angled steering shaft setup as a U-joint
with either rubber flex coupler below in a custom-built mini-rod pulling
tractor. [Return To Previous Section,
Paragraph or Website]
-
Used and in excellent condition. OEM Cub Cadet part # 748-3001. $50.00
each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
-
New. (Cub Cadet part # 759-3009 bored to 5/8".) Replaces Cub Cadet part #
748-3001. $90.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Transaxle Input
Shaft Coupler Arm with Self-Aligning Spherical Bronze Bushing and
Outer Steel Race/Retainer. Each fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 482,
580, 582, 682, 782, 782D, 800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211,
1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1541, 1604, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811,
1812 and 1860. Bolt holes spaced 3" apart with a 5/8" center through-hole.
NOTE: This particular part goes on the input shaft of the transaxle and
not on the driveshaft. and
-
Used and in excellent condition coupler arm w/bushing. $75.00 each,
plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
-
New coupler arm w/bushing. OEM Cub Cadet part #'s 703-1035 (same as below).
$117.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
New coupler arm w/bushing. OEM Cub Cadet part #'s 903-0794 (same as above).
$185.90 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Driveshaft
Rubber Flex Coupler. Designed for Cub Cadet "Original" and Cub Cadet
hydrostatic drive models: 105, 107, 109, 123, 125, 127, 129, 147, 149, 169,
1604 and 1606. Allows for out-of-alignment rotation of driveshaft to prevent
damage to hydrostatic pump. Very tough, reinforced weaved fiber/rubber material.
Can also be used in a steering shaft setup as a type of U-joint with a maximum
35º angle with the coupler arm(s) above in a custom-built mini-rod pulling
tractor. 13/32" bolt holes spaced 3" apart. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-376257-R3.
$33.15 each, plus shipping & handling.
Driveshaft Rubber Flex
Coupler. Designed for Cub Cadet models: 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 682,
782, 782D, 800, 882, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1050, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211,
1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1541, 1604, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811,
1812, 1860, 1872, 1912, 1914 and 2072. NOTE: Only models 482, 582 Special,
800, 1000, 1100 and 1200 require one flex coupler (at end of driveshaft).
All other models require two flex couplers (at end of driveshaft). Allows
out-of-alignment rotation of driveshaft in ISO-mounted engine tractors to
prevent damage to the clutch parts or hydrostatic pump. Has larger center
hole than coupler above to clear housing in coupler arm for self-aligning
spherical bushing. Very tough, reinforced weaved fiber/rubber material. Can
be substituted for flex coupler above. Can also be used in a steering shaft
setup as a type of U-joint with a maximum 35º angle with the coupler
arm(s) above in a custom-built mini-rod pulling tractor. 13/32" bolt holes
spaced 3" apart. OEM Cub Cadet part # 722-3000. $21.70 each, plus
shipping & handling. |

The main cause of breakage of the OEM Cub Cadet aluminum hub
adapter on competition pulling engines that run at wide open throttle is
using out-of-balance OEM clutch pressure plates and OEM 3-pin clutch drive
plate, and/or not installing the large flat washer under the nut or bolt
(as described below Ê). So as long as
the clutch pressure plates and 3-pin clutch drive plate are trued-up in a
unworn metal lathe to remove the run-out or wobble so they'll be precision
balanced, this hub have been known to hold up very well even in a highly
modified competition pulling tractor as long as the original 1/4" thick
x no less than 1-1/4" O.D. flat washer is installed under the flywheel nut
or bolt with hardened 1/4" bolts w/split lock washers to securely fasten
the drive plate to the hub. Otherwise, it's pretty tough.
Separate the Brake and Clutch Operations - (This have been
done by many professional pullers in the past.)
Cub Cadet garden tractors that have the brakes integrated with the clutch/brake
pedal, when applying the brakes on a competition pulling tractor that has
an extremely stiff clutch pressure spring (on the driveshaft), great effort
is required (strong leg muscles) to overcome and compress the clutch spring
before the brakes can be safely applied. When rolling the tractor off a trailer,
this also requires even greater effort to depress the clutch/brake pedal
to apply the brakes especially by hand (and arm muscles). What can be done
to change this is separate the brake(s) and the clutch operations by
disconnecting the brake linkage from the clutch/brake pedal cross shaft,
and fabricate a long upright lever (with an adjustable linkage) on the right
side of the steering column support pedestal which can be easily and effortlessly
pulled back (rearward) by hand to apply the brakes. The clutch/brake pedal
will then become just a "clutch pedal," and the lever will be the "brake
lever." This would make it much safer and easier to fully stop or slow the
tractor down a steep hill or when unloading the tractor down the ramp(s)
of a
utility trailer or
platform work table.
Also, a "parking brake" lock mechanism can be installed on the brake
lever-to-tractor frame to securely lock the brakes in position to prevent
the tractor from rolling or coasting when the tractor is out of gear and
the engine running.
If an OEM 3-pin clutch drive
plate is bent next to the drive studs (MTD) or coiled/spiral pin collars
(IH), to fix this:
-
Straighten the pins/collars with a hammer the best you can. Place a clutch
disc with unworn holes over the pins to ensure they're properly
straightened.
-
Securely weld each collar to the plate. Try to apply an even amount of
weld around each collar for proper balance and to reduce vibration. It's
also a good idea to weld the collars on a drive plate that's not bent, to
ensure it will not get bent in the future.
-
True all rotating clutch parts (drive plate and pressure plates) in a metal
lathe that has a 3-jaw self-centering scroll chuck to reduce vibration, wear
on the pilot bushing and possible driveshaft breakage at high RPM or at
wide
open throttle. Because new OEM Cub Cadet pressure plates are made of
stamped steel and are not machined whatsoever. This means they are not perfectly
flat and they wobble from the factory. If used pressure plates have not been
resurfaced before, then chances are, they'll still be thick enough after
being resurfaced. Always remove the minimal amount of metal to retain maximum
thickness so they will not warp when hot.
(IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable using
a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist with
a lathe.)
If the bronze pilot bushing in a drive plate is excessively worn, this means
that the pressure plates are badly out of balance and/or there was no lubricating
grease applied to the bushing or on the driveshaft before installation of
the clutch assembly in the tractor. In either case, resurface the pressure
plates until they're perfectly flat and true-up the edge to prevent wobble
in a metal lathe. IMPORTANT: To ensure true flatness when resurfacing
pressure plates, use a lathe that's in good condition with very little wear
on the ways! (IMPORTANT: If you don't feel
comfortable using a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced
machinist with a lathe.)
Advertisement:
If you would
like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website,
and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance and support,
please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank
Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.
When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly
with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to
the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we
can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
|
Extra Thick Flywheel / Aluminum
Hub Adapter Retaining Washers. A must to secure flywheel and prevent OEM
Cub Cadet or billet aluminum hub adapter breakage. Each made of steel and
measures approximately 1/4" thick x 1-1/4" O.D.
-
Washers with 13/32" center hole. To be used with a crankshaft that has a
3/8" bolt, and/or aluminum hub adapter that has a 3/8" center hole.
-
A-1 Miller part. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 12 468 03-S. $3.80 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Washer with 5/8" center hole. To be used with a crankshaft that has a 5/8"
stud, and/or aluminum hub adapter that has a 5/8" center hole. A-1 Miller
part. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # X-25-104. $5.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Washer with 3/4" center hole. To be used with a crankshaft that has a 3/4"
stud, and/or aluminum hub adapter that has a 3/4" center hole. A-1 Miller
part. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # X-25-71. $5.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Step Washer. Use to center
cast aluminum or billet hub adapter with a 5/8" hole to a crankshaft with
the 3/8" bolt on later model Kohler K-series and all Magnum engines. A must
to prevent severe wobble/vibration and prevent hub and/or driveshaft/clutch
breakage. Dimensions: 3/8" I.D. x 5/8" O.D. step x approximately 1-1/4" overall
O.D. x 1/2" overall height. Professionally machined by Brian Miller.
-
$12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Cub Cadet hub adapters with
5/8" center hole (early K-series), w/pulley, w/dowel pin.
-
Used and in excellent condition. OEM Kohler part # 41 071 03-S. $60.00
each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
-
New. OEM Kohler part # 41 071 03-S. $90.73 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
New. OEM Cub Cadet part # KH-41-071-03. $116.30 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
New. OEM Cub Cadet part # 759-3287. $204.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
Cub Cadet hub adapters with
5/8" center hole (early K-series), w/o pulley, w/dowel pin.
-
Used and in excellent condition. Discontinued from Kohler. OEM Kohler part
# 41 071 05-S. $60.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When
available.)
-
New. OEM Cub Cadet part # KH-41-071-05. $204.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
Cub Cadet hub adapters with 3/8" center hole (later K-series, all KT-series
and Magnum), w/o pulley, w/dowel pin.
-
Used and in excellent condition. $40.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. (When available.)
-
New. OEM Kohler part # 52 755 61-S. $115.55 each, plus shipping &
handling.
|
1/4" diameter x 3/4" length
hardened steel dowel pin for OEM and billet aluminum hub adapters. Secures
aluminum hub to flywheel to prevent slippage. Replaces Cub Cadet part # KH-X-56-7
and Kohler part # X-56-7. $1.50 each, plus shipping & handling. |
Flywheel grass/safety steel
screen for use in IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractors with Kohler engine models
K161 and K181. 5-9/16" diameter.
-
New Old Stock or Used and in excellent condition. Discontinued from Kohler.
OEM Kohler part # 231819-S. $20.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
(When available.)
|
Flywheel grass/safety steel
screen for use in IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractors with Kohler engine models
K241 and K301. 7" diameter.
-
Used and in excellent condition. $120.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. (When available.)
-
New. OEM Cub Cadet part # KH-235190 and OEM Kohler part # 235190-S.
$240.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Resurfacing and Truing Up Worn and Warped Pressure Plates -
For any clutch disc to adhere or grip well and to prevent slippage, both
pressure plates must be resurfaced until they're perfectly flat in a metal
lathe. (IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable
using a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist
with a lathe.) The outer edge should be trued-up too, to prevent
wobble, which can cause the pilot bushing to wear excessively. For a used
clutch assembly, chances are, the composite/fiber
clutch disc is worn to match the wear on the pressure plates. If the
clutch disc is worn, but still reusable, it can be resurfaced until perfectly
flat in the lathe as well. For best clutch adhesion and to lessen the chance
of slippage, the clutch-to-pressure plates surface contact areas must be
flat against flat for 100% contact. Because new OEM Cub Cadet pressure plates
are made of stamped steel and are not machined whatsoever. This means they
are not perfectly flat and they wobble from the factory. If used pressure
plates have not been resurfaced before, then chances are, they'll still be
thick enough after being resurfaced. Always remove the minimal amount of
metal to retain maximum thickness so they will not warp when hot.
NOTE: Before reassembling the clutch assembly, apply a thin coat of
lubricating grease on the area of the driveshaft where the throw-out bearing
and where the rear pressure plate slides back and forth. The grease will
assure full clutch disengagement, lessen wear to the driveshaft, and it will
prevent the rear pressure plate from sticking to the driveshaft due to rust
if the tractor is stored in a damp environment. Also, while the rear pressure
plate is off the driveshaft, to prevent it from binding on the 2nd
coiled/spiral pin, which can prevent the clutch from disengaging, widen the
slot slightly with a flat file or on the edge of the blade on a chopsaw.
(Be sure to wear safety glasses!) And it'll be a good idea to drill a small
hole near the center of the rear pressure plate to relieve the air that can
get trapped between the pressure plates.
Advertisement:
If you would
like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website,
and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance and support,
please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank
Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.
When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly
with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to
the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we
can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
|
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair
Service: Resurface YOUR Cub Cadet pressure plates until perfectly flat with
a smooth, slick surface, and then true-up outer edge to prevent
run-out
(wobble/out-of-balance). Minimal metal is removed to maintain maximum diameter
and thickness so they will not warp when hot from clutch friction. New OEM
Cub Cadet pressure plates are made of stamped steel and not machined whatsoever.
This means they are not perfectly flat and they wobble from the factory.
Wobbling/out-of-balance pressure plates causes vibration throughout the entire
tractor, and they cause the pilot bushing to wear. Wobbling/out-of-balance
pressure plates could also cause the driveshaft to break at high RPMs in
a competition pulling tractor. If used pressure plates have not been resurfaced
before, then chances are, they'll still be thick enough after being resurfaced.
$20.00 labor for two pressure plates, plus return shipping & handling.
New Front Cub Cadet Pressure Plate. (With hole for spiral pin.) OEM Cub Cadet
part #'s IH-384651-R11, 903-0214. $104.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
New Rear Cub Cadet Pressure Plate. (With slot for spiral pin.) OEM Cub Cadet
part #'s IH-384648-R21, IH-63815-C1, 903-0213. $145.40 each, plus
shipping & handling. |
Warped pressure plates will allow a single or even double clutches to slip.
They warp due to overheating and normal wear. When they get warped, they
don't have full contact with the entire surface of the clutch disc. Whenever
a new clutch disc is installed, rather if it's an OEM one or made of aluminum,
the pressure plates should always be resurfaced until perfectly flat
and trued up in a metal lathe. (IMPORTANT: If
you don't feel comfortable using a metal lathe, please consult a professional
and experienced machinist with a lathe.) New OEM Cub Cadet
pressure plates are stamped in a press and not machined in a lathe. This
means they're not as flat or turn as true as ones that's been machined in
a lathe. Therefore, if new or used pressure plates are going to be used for
pulling or heavy lawn and garden use, have the outer edge trued up and have
the clutch contact area resurfaced until perfectly flat in a metal lathe.
Because new OEM Cub Cadet pressure plates are made of stamped steel and are
not machined whatsoever. This means they are not perfectly flat and they
wobble from the factory. If used pressure plates have not been resurfaced
before, then chances are, they'll still be thick enough after being resurfaced.
Always remove the minimal amount of metal to retain maximum thickness so
they will not warp when hot.
The OEM Cub Cadet pressure plates are 3/16" (.188") thick. On the average,
approximately .005" of metal is removed from the face of each pressure plate
after it has been resurfaced until perfectly flat. Removing this much metal
will not weaken the plates whatsoever, even when used with a very stout pressure
spring.
With both pressure plates properly resurfaced until perfectly flat, the single
OEM composite/fiber clutch, with 4-1/2" diameter pressure plates, has a total
disc to plate contact area of 17.7 square inches. When doubled (as in double
clutches including the 4-1/2" diameter center drive plate), it has a total
contact area of 36 square inches. This is why double clutches hold so well
in pulling. It's the same as using a bigger clutch that has more contact
area. And double-clutches will have even more contact area with 4-5/8" diameter
pressure plates!
The aluminum disc on the other hand (as described in this web site), has
a total contact area of 29.8 square inches. You may look at this disc and
ask, "where's the friction material?" Well, the aluminum itself is the friction
material. A single aluminum disc will adhere to (grip) steel a lot better
than a single composite/fiber clutch disc.
Both of these type of clutches (the single aluminum and double
composite/fiber clutch disc), when used with
a high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow
(1,150± lb.) spring, has been proven to hold very well in pulling.
If everything is machined, precision balanced, installed and adjusted correctly,
the aluminum or double-disc clutch system including the driveshaft could
possibly last the life of the tractor. Even when used in high-performance
conditions.
IMPORTANT: To ensure true flatness when resurfacing pressure plates, use
a lathe that's in good condition with very little wear on the ways!
Save the Hubs!
If the discs in your pressure plates are heavily rusted, worn too thin or
warped badly and resurfacing them in a lathe didn't do any good, instead
of making two entirely new pressure plates, what could be done is remove
the center hub from each disc with a
hydraulic press and reuse the hubs to make two new pressure
plates. This would save from having to fabricate a couple of new hubs.
If the center hole in the slotted hub of the rear [sliding] pressure plate
is worn oblong (rare), the hole can be repaired by boring it true in a metal
lathe, and a steel sleeve bushing will need to be pressed in and welded in
to prevent it from coming loose, and the hole in the bushing will need to
be center-bored to .626". The slot will need to be carefully ground out in
the bushing to match the slot in the hub using the blade in an electric chop
saw with a metal cut-off wheel. Finally, the face of the pressure plate can
be resurfaced and trued-up in the metal lathe. (Remember to wear safety glasses!)
(IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable using
a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist with
a lathe.)
Use distilled
white vinegar to remove rust from inside gas tanks, tools, bolts/nuts,
clutch pressure plates or virtually any steel or cast iron part:
vinegar rust removal - YouTube.
Use ALUMINUM as Clutch Disc Material!
If a single composite/fiber clutch disc slips
in a stock competition pulling tractor, then what is required to prevent
clutch slippage is to install a single piece of machined aluminum to serve
as a clutch disc. With resurfaced pressure plates and a
high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow
(1,150± lb.) spring, aluminum should grip and hold up well when
used in a stock competition pulling tractor. By the way, the OEM sandwiched
steel composite/fiber clutch disc and an
aluminum clutch disc weighs almost the
same; about 10.6 ounces each.
The aluminum clutch disc works best for
low RPM stock engines. I use the aluminum clutch
disc in our stock competition pulling tractors and the double
OEM-composite/fiber clutches in our higher horsepower tractors. I haven't
had any problems with either clutches for several years.
If a single, lightweight aluminum clutch disc
is used, there's no need to install three extra studs in the 3-pin drive
plate (see below Ê ). But definitely
have both pressure plates resurfaced until perfectly flat as described above
È . Depending on the size of engine
and weight of tractor, the aluminum clutch
disc require a tougher driveshaft along with a
high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow
(1,150± lb.) spring. And it'll be a good idea to install a center
support bearing (center support pillow block
bearing and brace) to prevent the driveshaft from wobbling at 4,000 RPM.
Also, if the pressure plates are properly resurfaced until perfectly flat
and if aluminum is used, the aluminum will not excessively wear or melt onto
them.
The
biggest mistake a puller can make when launching a tractor is letting the
clutch out all of a sudden with the engine revved up. So when using aluminum
as a clutch disc (or any metallic clutch material), and when the tractor
is hooked to the sled, always remember to "slip" the clutch upon take-off.
To do this, first rev up the engine (a lot), then slowly ease out on the
clutch pedal. Because an
aluminum clutch
disc may not "slip" at low RPM, and because aluminum
adheres to steel very well when under pressure, if the pedal is let out all
of a sudden with the engine revved up, and if the tires don't spin, something
could break or get damaged in the drive train or transaxle. The 5/8" zinc-plated
steel split lock washer that's placed between the pressure plates will aide
greatly in smooth clutch engagement/release and it lessens the possibility
of the clutch from "grabbing" upon take-off.
Advertisement:
If
you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this
website, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance
and support, please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501
W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.
When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly
with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to
the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we
can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
|
High quality aftermarket
composite/fiber material 6" O.D. clutch disc for all models of clutch-drive
Cub Cadet garden tractors. Comes with 6 drive holes; can be used with
a 3- or 6-pin/stud drive plate. Made of very tough and long-lasting material.
Suitable for heavy duty yard and garden use, and competition pulling tractors.
Replaces Cub Cadet part # 961-3002. $40.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
OEM Cub Cadet 6" O.D. clutch disc with 3 drive holes. Must be used with a
3-pin/stud drive plate. Reinforced with sandwiched steel. Listed for use
in Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 106, 108, 122, 124,
126, 128, 580, 582, 800, 1000, 1200, 1604 and 1606. OEM Cub Cadet part #
961-3002. $74.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
OEM Cub Cadet 6-1/2" O.D. clutch disc with 3 drive holes. Must be used with
a 3-pin/stud drive plate. Reinforced with sandwiched steel. Listed for use
in Cub cadet models 1050, 1535 and 1806. OEM Cub Cadet part # 961-3011.
$72.25 each, plus shipping & handling.
[Return To Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
IMPORTANT
- It is highly recommended that both pressure plates be trued-up (to reduce
vibration) and resurfaced (machined) in a metal lathe to remove warpage until
perfectly flat or severe clutch slippage may result!
FYI - About 90% of the composite/fiber material in clutch discs
will chip off were the holes are due to the following reasons:
-
The composite/fiber material is so hard (for long wear), it's actually brittle
and will easily chip off or break when mishandled.
-
Sometimes when installing the engine in the tractor, the composite/fiber
material will chip off when sliding the drive pins or studs into the clutch
disc.
-
The holes in the composite/fiber material will sometimes chip off and/or
wear larger under normal use because the three OEM drive pins or studs place
pressure against the holes. When the original three holes wear extremely
large, a new hole can be precision-drilled between the original holes and
the clutch disc can be reused.
-
Using the OEM Cub Cadet clutch drive plate with three additional drive studs
precision-drilled and installed or an aftermarket 6-pin drive plate with
a 6-hole clutch disc (three additional holes drilled) will place 50% less
pressure and reduce the amount of wear against each hole. The more drive
pins or studs the drive plate has, less wear to the holes will result in
the clutch disc. The drive plate and clutch disc can have as many as 9 or
12 drive pins and holes.
|
Teasing Spring
and Protective Thrust Washer. Fits all Cub Cadet clutch drive garden tractors,
including Cub Cadet "Original" and Cub Cadet models 1250, 1450 and 1650 equipped
with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment. The thrust washer goes between
the rear slotted pressure plate and teasing spring. Each time the clutch
is engaged, sometimes the end of the spring will "catch" in the slot of the
pressure plate, which twists the spring a few thousandths of an inch. Overtime,
this creates metal fatigue in the spring and could cause it to eventually
break, even with the cup/spacer below. The thrust washer prevents this from
happening. FYI: There is a custom-made sleeve available from an aftermarket
vendor that goes over the teasing spring (much like the cup/spacer below).
But being the teasing spring does not expand outward when the clutch is engaged,
this sleeve will not prevent the spring from possibly twisting and breaking.
Therefore, it's been proven to best use the protective thrust washer instead.
An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no
advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging
my intelligence.)
-
Protective Thrust Washer Only. .050"± thickness. No need to use this
part on the Cub Cadet "Original". $1.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
Teasing Spring Only. OEM Cub Cadet part # 732-3017. $6.55 each, plus
shipping & handling.
-
Teasing Spring and Protective Thrust Washer Kit. $7.55 per kit, plus
shipping & handling.
|
Cup/Spacer for
Teasing Spring. Specifically used in Cub Cadet clutch drive garden tractor
models 582, 800, 1000, 1200, 1535, 1604, 1606 and 1806, including Cub Cadet
models 1250, 1450 and 1650 equipped with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment.
Overall length: .605". IMPORTANT: When installing this part on
the driveshaft, the wide/flared-end faces forward and the narrow end goes
against the throw-out bearing. And do not install this part in any other
model of Cub Cadet garden tractor then listed above in an attempt to prevent
the teasing spring from possibly breaking over time. (Use the thrust washer
above instead.) Doing so will position the throw-out bearing further back
on the driveshaft than in the original position and not allow the clutch
disc to either fully disengage or disengage at all.
-
OEM Cub Cadet part # 911-3040. $19.55 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Cup/Spacer for
Teasing Spring. Specifically used in Cub Cadet garden tractor model 1050;
2" overall length. Comes with installed grease fitting.
IMPORTANT: When installing this part on driveshaft, the wide/flared
end faces forward and the narrow end goes against the
clutch release/throw-out bearing. No
longer available from Cub Cadet. Replaces Cub Cadet part # 711-3282.
-
A-1 Miller's fabricated part. $42.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
A-1 Miller's Original Machined Aluminum Clutch Disc Kit. Includes
6-hole aluminum clutch disc, 5/8" I.D. split lock washer (goes between pressure
plates for smooth clutch engagement and guaranteed release) and steel spacer
(replaces teaser spring). NOTE: Use only with the
red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.)
pressure spring to prevent clutch slippage. This is an alternate and
direct replacement for the composite/fiber material
clutch disc. The steel spacer to replace the teasing spring and lock
washer placed between the pressure plates is most suitable for use with the
aluminum clutch disc. There will be no benefit if these were used with the
fiber clutch disc. Also, the lock washer works best with a red or yellow
pressure spring so the pressure plates can place maximum pressure against
the clutch disc. Made of the highest quality 6061 alloy; medium-grade
hardness aluminum available. The 1-1/8" center hole in disc is bored dead
center, and the circumference is turned true in my metal lathe, then the
6 drive holes are precision-drilled using my 8" super spacer with a 6-notch
masking plate on the table of my milling machine. Unlike some of my competitor's
copycat part, the drive holes in my aluminum clutch discs are drilled 13/32"
for minimum clutch disc noise/rattle and less chance of breakage to the drive
pins/studs. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please
accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate
them acknowledging my intelligence.)
IMPORTANT - It is highly recommended that both pressure plates be trued-up
(to reduce vibration) and resurfaced (machined) in a metal lathe to remove
warpage until perfectly flat or severe clutch slippage may result! Because
new OEM Cub Cadet pressure plates are made of stamped steel and are not machined
whatsoever. This means they are not perfectly flat and they wobble from the
factory. If used pressure plates have not been resurfaced before, then chances
are, they'll still be thick enough after being resurfaced. Always remove
the minimal amount of metal to retain maximum thickness so they will not
warp when hot.
CUB CADET
124 WORK PART 2 - YouTube
-
Aluminum Clutch Disc Kit. Includes 6-hole aluminum clutch disc, 5/8" I.D.
split lock washer (goes between pressure plates for smooth clutch engagement
and guaranteed release) and steel spacer (replaces teaser spring). NOTE:
Use only with the red (800± lb.) or yellow
(1,150± lb.) pressure spring to prevent clutch slippage.
$35.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
-
5/8" I.D. Zinc-Plated Steel
Split Lock Washer and Steel Spacer Kit. Replaces teasing spring on all narrow
frame clutch drive Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122,
124 and 126. $5.00 per set, plus shipping & handling.
[Return To Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website] Please contact A-1
Miller's if you're interested in any of these parts or services.
|
Clutch Disc
Anti-Rattle Spring. Reduces noisy composite/fiber or aluminum clutch disc
rattle on drive pins/studs. Although one spring may be sufficient to reduce
clutch noise, it may be necessary to install three springs (one for each
pin/stud) for 100% reduced clutch noise. Can be used on composite/fiber or
aluminum clutch discs. NOTE: Recommended for up to 4,000 RPM engines.
Not for use on high RPM or wide open throttle competition pulling tractors
due to normal engine harmonic vibrations that travels out into the clutch
assembly, this can create the possibility of the spring(s) becoming dislodged,
which could become a hazardous airborne projectile if clutch is not properly
shielded 360º. So if possible, install these springs with the coil between
the clutch disc and drive plate, opposite that is shown in the picture to
the right, to prevent them from coming off.
-
OEM Cub Cadet part # 932-3018. $3.80 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
How to Make a composite/fiber or the Aluminum Clutch Disc Engage Smoothly
-
The OEM Cub Cadet cushion spring (as it is called in the early/narrow frame
Cub Cadets) or teasing spring (as it is called in the later models/wide and
spread frame Cub Cadets) goes between the rear pressure plate and
clutch release/throw-out bearing. It's purpose
is to allow the rear pressure plate to gently press against the clutch disc
as the clutch is engaged without having a "jerky" clutch. When using an
aluminum clutch disc, the teasing spring
can be replaced with a steel spacer or a stack of small outside diameter
flat washers (the ones that originally comes on Cub Cadet driveshafts) and
an ordinary, zinc-plated steel split lock washer. Install the lock washer
between the pressure plates (dead center of the clutch disc) for a smoother
clutch engagement. Clutch slippage may result if used with the OEM Cub Cadet
clutch pressure spring. Therefore, the aluminum
clutch disc should be used with a stiffer-than-stock pressure spring,
such as the high pressure red (800± lb.) or
yellow (1,150± lb.) spring.
For the narrow-frame Cub Cadets,
the steel spacer needs to be 3/8" in length. (The teasing spring is compressed
to 3/8" when the clutch is fully engaged.) And for Cub Cadet models 86, 108,
128, 800, 1000, 1200 and 1535, the spacer needs to 5/8" length or use the
OEM protective cup/spacer (for the teasing) that originally comes on the
driveshaft, but leave the teasing spring out. By the way - the small end
of the protective cup/spacer goes against the
clutch release/throw-out bearing. If a too
long of a spacer or the protective spacer/cup is used in a narrow frame model,
the clutch release/throw-out bearing would
set too far back on the driveshaft and when the clutch/brake pedal is depressed,
the release lever will make contact with the
steering box and the clutch will not be able to release.
To prevent the teasing spring
from possibly breaking and to help the clutch(es) to engage more smoothly,
simply don't use the teasing spring. Instead, replace where the teasing spring
goes on the driveshaft with a piece of heavy wall round steel tubing that
measures 7/8" O.D. x 3/8" (narrow frame) or 5/8" (wide frame) long x 41/64"
I.D. Then install an ordinary zinc-plated 5/8" I.D. split lock washer between
the pressure plates, dead center of the clutch disc. Use two zinc-plated
steel split lock washers (one for each clutch disc) if using double clutches.
Lock washers have a spring-like action too, plus they'll last a lot longer
than a teasing spring.
The lock washer does two things - it acts like a spring, which forces the
pressure plates apart, it provides smooth clutch engagement and it'll help
to prevent the possibility of the clutch disc from "grabbing" upon take-off.
In addition, the spring-like action of the lock washer will expand the pressure
plates when the clutch/brake pedal is fully depressed so they will release
from the clutch disc. Doing this will guarantee that the clutch will engage
smoothly and release every time. So when reassembling a clutch assembly,
don't install the teasing spring. Instead, install the spacer and lock washer
as described above È. You'll be glad
you did.
Or for a bullet-proof teasing spring setup, and/or if the
aluminum clutch disc doesn't engage smoothly,
instead of using the 5/8" lock washer between the pressure plates and the
teasing spring or a steel spacer, install a flat washer, the 5/8" lock washer,
then another flat washer until they all total to about 3/8" or 5/8" in height
with the lock washer fully uncompressed.
The correct order of installing Cub Cadet clutch parts on the driveshaft
is listed below Ê. NOTE: Before
reassembling the clutch assembly, apply a thin coat of lubricating grease
on the area of the driveshaft where the throw-out bearing and where the rear
pressure plate slides back and forth. The grease will assure full clutch
disengagement, lessen wear to the driveshaft, and it will prevent the rear
pressure plate from sticking to the driveshaft due to rust if the tractor
is stored in a damp environment. Also, while the rear pressure plate is off
the driveshaft, to prevent it from binding on the 2nd coiled/spiral
pin, which can prevent the clutch from disengaging, widen the slot slightly
with a flat file or on the edge of the blade on a chopsaw. (Be sure to wear
safety glasses!) And it'll be a good idea to drill a small hole near the
center of the rear pressure plate to relieve the air that can get trapped
between the pressure plates.
1. Install 3rd coiled/spiral pin then the main
pressure spring.
2. Install clutch release/throw-out bearing
(small end facing forward of tractor).
3. Install release lever .
4. Install protective spacer/cup (small end goes against
clutch release/throw-out bearing).
5. Install teasing spring or steel spacer. |
6. Compress the pressure spring and install the 2nd
coiled/spiral pin.
7. Install pressure plate w/slotted hub.
8. Install zinc-plated steel split lock washer (use only with very stiff
pressure spring).
9. Install clutch disc.
10. Install pressure plate w/solid hub, then the 1st coiled/spiral
pin. |
How to Replace a Broken Teasing Spring on a Cub Cadet Driveshaft (with
the driveshaft in the tractor) - (Added 8/28/17)
-
Lock (depress) the clutch/brake pedal down with the lever against the pedal
stop, which is a small angled steel spot-welded to the tractor frame.
-
Remove the engine from the tractor.
-
Place a heavy flat bar across the tractor frame to support the very end of
the driveshaft. This so the coiled/spiral pins for the pressure plates can
be removed.
-
Use a 1/4" roll pin punch to drive out the coiled/spiral pin from the front
pressure plate.
-
Remove the heavy flat bar and remove both pressure plates along with the
clutch disc from the driveshaft
-
Place the heavy flat bar across the frame (again), and drive out the second
coiled/spiral pin from the driveshaft.
-
Remove the heavy flat bar and the teasing spring can be removed.
-
Before installing the new teasing spring, apply a thin coat of lubricating
grease on the driveshaft. The grease will assure full clutch disengagement,
lessen wear to the driveshaft, and it will prevent the rear pressure plate
from sticking to the driveshaft due to rust if the tractor is stored in a
damp environment.
-
Reinstall the teasing spring and everything else on the driveshaft in reverse
order of removal.
-
When everything is back on the driveshaft, apply a thin coat of lubricating
grease inside the pilot bushing, and reinstall the engine in the tractor
and unlock the clutch/brake pedal from the pedal stop.
-
The clearance between the clutch release/throw-out
bearing and clutch release lever will need
to be adjusted by turning the self-locking nut on the lower threaded clutch
release rod one way or the other until about 9/32" of clearance is obtained
between the clutch/brake pedal stop. This allows about .050" or 1/16" of
clearance between the clutch release/throw-out
bearing and clutch release lever. Be sure
the pedal return spring is installed, too.
To disassemble the clutch components from the driveshaft, this is how
I do it:
-
In a large bench vise, remove the coiled/spiral pin in the front pressure
plate.
-
Remove from vise and slide off both pressure plates and clutch disc.
-
Firmly clamp the front of the driveshaft in the vise, and with a 3-4 lb.
hammer, drive the driveshaft forward from the rear to release pressure off
the teasing spring.
-
Drive out the teasing spring.
-
Carefully remove the driveshaft from the vise because the pressure spring
is under a lot of tension.
-
Now everything can be removed from the driveshaft.
For safety, a
hydraulic press should be used to compress the large pressure
spring on the driveshaft to reassemble the clutch components!
-
Apply a light coat of lubricating grease where the
clutch release/throw-out bearing slides back
and forth on the driveshaft. The grease will assure full clutch disengagement,
lessen wear to the driveshaft, and it will prevent the rear pressure plate
from sticking to the driveshaft due to rust if the tractor is stored in a
damp environment.
-
Install the pressure spring, clutch release/throw-out
bearing (the protruding part of the clutch release/throw-out bearing,
the part that sticks out, faces forward in the tractor), clutch
release lever and teasing spring or steel spacer
(optional) on the driveshaft, and place the driveshaft in the
hydraulic press with the front facing down.
-
Apply pressure on the rear of the driveshaft until the second coiled/spiral
pin hole clears the teasing spring, then slide a 1/4" bolt in the hole, then
release the pressure on the driveshaft.
-
Remove the driveshaft from the press and firmly clamp the front of the driveshaft
in the vise, and with the 3-4 lb. hammer, drive the driveshaft forward from
the rear so the 1/4" bolt can be removed.
-
Install a 1/4" coiled/spiral pin in the second coiled/spiral pin hole.
-
Remove the driveshaft from the vise.
-
Install the rear pressure plate, 5/8" zinc-plated steel split lock washer
(optional), clutch disc and front pressure plate.
-
Again, firmly clamp the front of the driveshaft in the vise, and with the
3-4 lb. hammer, drive the driveshaft forward from the rear so the first
coiled/spiral pin hole is aligned with the hole in the front pressure plate.
-
Install the coiled/spiral pin.
-
The clutch assembly is now completely reassembled.
To test how well the clutch will release out of the tractor, place the clutch
assembly in the
hydraulic press with each end of the
release lever on a couple of blocks, and apply
slight downward pressure on the end of the driveshaft. The clutch disc should
rotate or "move around" freely without binding. If the disc doesn't rotate
or binds, redo your work to find out what went wrong.
How to Fix a "Sticking" Cub Cadet Clutch (when it will not release) -
Before reassembling the clutch assembly, apply a thin coat of lubricating
grease on the area of the driveshaft where the throw-out bearing and where
the rear pressure plate slides back and forth. The grease will assure full
clutch disengagement, lessen wear to the driveshaft, and it will prevent
the rear pressure plate from sticking to the driveshaft due to rust if the
tractor is stored in a damp environment. Also, while the rear pressure plate
is off the driveshaft, to prevent it from binding on the 2nd
coiled/spiral pin, which can prevent the clutch from disengaging, widen the
slot slightly with a flat file or on the edge of the blade on a chopsaw.
(Be sure to wear safety glasses!) And it'll be a good idea to drill a small
hole near the center of the rear pressure plate to relieve the air that can
get trapped between the pressure plates.
The Much Over-Looked Clutch Release Lever
Clevis Pin -
If the straight 3/8" diameter
OEM Cub Cadet
clevis pin that goes through the clutch hanger bracket
and release lever is worn, this part should be
replaced with an angled or L-shaped pivot pin. As the engine runs with the
clutch fully engaged (foot off the clutch pedal, of course), due to normal
engine vibration and slight out-of-balance rotating clutch parts, the OEM
round pin continually spins, causing the pin itself and the holes in the
hanger bracket to wear. The holes in the release
lever rarely wear because the entire lever is made of hardened, heat-treated
steel. By replacing the round pin with an angled pin (with the short end
long enough to make contact with the tractor frame or hanger bracket), it
can't spin. Therefore, there'll be much less wear on the pin and holes, the
clutch release/throw-out bearing will last
longer, there'll be less noise coming from the clutch parts, clutch operation
will be smoother, and clutch adjustment will remain the same for a longer
time. (I think the engineers at IH Cub Cadet should have originally installed
an angled pin in their tractors. But then again, they probably didn't plan
on their tractors being in use 40-50 years later.)
Advertisement:
If
you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this
website, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance
and support, please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501
W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.
When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly
with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to
the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we
can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
|
Pivot and Clevis
Pins for Cub Cadet clutch release lever/hanger
brackets. This is an alternative to using the OEM straight clevis pin or
a grade 8 bolt and lock nut. The angled/L-shaped pin prevents the holes in
the release lever and hanger bracket from wearing
oblong due to constant spinning of the OEM straight clevis pin while the
tractor is in operation. The angled/L-shaped pin lessens clutch noise, reduces
erratic clutch pedal operation, maintains clutch adjustment and allows for
smoother clutch operation. Each made of 3/8" diameter mild steel. For clutch
drive Cub Cadet models: 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 106, 108, 122,
124, 126, 128, 580, 582, 800, 1000, 1050, 1200, 1604, 1606 and 1806. The
angled/L-shaped pin is an ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller.
Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate
them acknowledging my intelligence.)
-
Angled/L-shaped/90º pivot pin w/cotter pin for clutch drive Cub Cadet
garden tractors that require a pin. Please specify model of tractor when
ordering. $20.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
High quality aftermarket straight clevis pin for clutch drive Cub Cadet garden
tractors that require a pin. Please specify model of tractor when
ordering. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Straight clevis pin for narrow frame Cub Cadet garden tractors. OEM Cub Cadet
part # 911-0755. $6.65 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Straight clevis pin for narrow frame Cub Cadet garden tractors. OEM Cub Cadet
part # 911-3044. $6.75 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
New
clutch hanger bracket for narrow frame clutch drive IH Cub Cadet models 70,
71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124 and 126.
-
New. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-384656-R2. $35.80 each, plus shipping
& handling.
|
New
clutch hanger bracket for wide frame clutch drive IH Cub Cadet models 86,
108, 128, 800, 1000 and 1200. Also for models 1250, 1450 and 1650 with a
hydrostatic disconnect attachment.
-
Used and in excellent condition. $40.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. (When available.)
-
New. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-547629-R1. $88.80 each, plus shipping
& handling.
A-1 Miller's Repair Service - Weld up worn and oblong clutch release
lever pivot pin holes, redrill holes and grind smooth for your hanger bracket.
$30.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling. |
New
clutch hanger bracket for spread frame clutch drive, IH- or MTD-built Cub
Cadet models 580, 582, 1050, 1604, 1606 and 1806. May also fit model 1535.
Requires clevis pin w/cotter pin.
-
Used and in excellent condition. $40.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. (When available.)
-
New. OEM Cub Cadet part # 759-3548. $79.10 each, plus shipping &
handling.
A-1 Miller's Repair Service - Weld up worn and oblong clutch release
lever pivot pin holes, redrill holes and grind smooth for your hanger bracket.
$30.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling. |
New
clutch hanger bracket for spread frame clutch drive MTD-built Cub Cadet model
1535. May also fit models 580, 582, 1050, 1604, 1606 and 1806. Requires shoulder
bolt w/locknut.
-
Used and in excellent condition. $40.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. (When available.)
-
New. OEM Cub Cadet part # 703-2000-0637. $73.55 each, plus shipping
& handling.
|
New
Clutch Release Lever for all narrow frame clutch drive Cub Cadet models
70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124 and 126. 7-7/8" overall length.
Discontinued from Cub Cadet. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-384657-R5.
-
New Old Stock or Used and In Excellent Condition. $50.00 each, plus
shipping & handling. (When available.)
-
A-1 Miller's Repair Service - Weld up and grind smooth worn [throw-out
bearing] areas in your release lever. $20.00 labor, plus return shipping
& handling.
|
New Clutch Release
Lever for Cub Cadet models 86, 108 and 128. Can also be used for models 800,
1000 and 1200 with solid motor mounts. Stock
8-1/4" overall length.
-
Used and in excellent condition. $50.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. (When available.)
-
OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-547631-R2. $93.45 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
A-1 Miller's Repair Service - Weld up and grind smooth worn [throw-out
bearing] areas in your release lever. $20.00 labor, plus return shipping
& handling.
|
New Clutch Release
Lever for Cub Cadet models 800, 1000 and 1200. Can also can be used for models
86, 108 and 128 with no modifications. Also for models 1250, 1450 and 1650
with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment. Stock 8-1/4" overall length.
-
Used and in excellent condition. $45.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. (When available.)
-
OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-61461-C2. $86.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
A-1 Miller's Repair Service - Weld up and grind smooth worn [throw-out
bearing] areas in your release lever. $20.00 labor, plus return shipping
& handling.
|
New Clutch Release
Lever for all spread frame IH- and MTD-built Cub Cadet models 580, 582, 1050,
1535, 1604, 1606 and 1806. Stock 9-3/4" overall length.
-
Used and in excellent condition. $40.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. (When available.)
-
OEM Cub Cadet part # 703-0218-0637. $60.25 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
A-1 Miller's Repair Service - Weld up and grind smooth worn [throw-out
bearing] areas in your release lever. $20.00 labor, plus return shipping
& handling. [Return To Previous
Section, Paragraph or Website]
|
A-1 Miller's
Repair Service of Worn Hole for Release Rod in IH Cub Cadet "Original" [Round]
Clutch Arm to Remove Excessive Free Play in Clutch/Brake Pedal - The
clutch arm fastens on the clutch/brake cross shaft and rotates slightly to
disengage the drive clutch when the clutch/brake pedal is depressed. Work
includes: Precision-align bore/enlarge worn/oblong hole in clutch arm with
milling machine, and press-in new steel bushing/sleeve tight with red Loctite
so it will not loosen. Then I.D. of bushing is precision-align bored with
milling machine to exactly 3/8". Otherwise, being the hole is worn oblong,
if the bushing/sleeve is pressed-in without enlarging it first, this would
distort the bushing and ruin it. FYI - The clutch release arm is discontinued
from Cub Cadet and it's OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-376276-R1. (Part number shown
for identification of clutch arm only.)
-
$30.00 for labor and bushing, plus return shipping & handling.
|
Clutch
Adjustment/Release Rod for IH Cub Cadet "Original". Length 6-7/8" from inside
of bend to end of threads.
-
Used and in excellent condition. $20.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. (When available.)
-
New. Fabricated A-1 Miller's. Discontinued from Cub Cadet. Replaces Cub Cadet
part # IH-376277-R1. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Clutch Adjustment/Release Rod
for Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124 and 126.
Length: 8-7/8" from inside of bend to end of threads.
-
Used and in excellent condition. May require either cotter pin or
jam nut for spring stop. $20.00 each, plus shipping
& handling. (When available.)
-
New. Fabricated by A-1 Miller's. Made of mild steel. Requires cotter pin
for spring stop. Discontinued from Cub Cadet. Replaces
Cub Cadet part # IH-405590-R1; for models 73, 106 and 126, but can
be used with Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, 100, 102, 104, 122 and 124.
$30.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
New. Requires jam nut for spring stop. Can be used with Cub Cadet models
70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124 and 126. OEM Cub Cadet part
# IH-393124-R1. $42.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
Clutch Adjustment/Release Rod
for Cub Cadet models 86, 108, 128, 800, 1000 and 1200. (Models 800, 1000
and 1200 with caliper [axle] brakes.) Length: 11-1/4" from inside of bend
to end of threads. NOTES: Install cotter pin and flat washer in middle
of rod to serve as a stop for the compression spring. Clutch adjustment/release
rod for Cub Cadet models 800, 1000 and 1200 with the internal
brake no longer available from Cub Cadet
(part # IH-117338-C2).
-
Used and in excellent condition. $20.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. (When available.)
-
New. OEM Cub Cadet part# IH-544133-R3. $39.90 each, plus shipping
& handling.
Clutch Adjustment/Release Rod
for Cub Cadet models 580, 582, 1050, 1535, 1604, 1606 and 1806. Length: 11-11/16"
from inside of bend to end of threads. NOTE: Install cotter pin in middle
of rod to serve as a stop for the compression spring.
-
New. Fabricated by A-1 Miller's. Made of mild steel. Discontinued from Cub
Cadet. Replaces OEM Cub Cadet part # 747-3021A. $40.00 each, plus
shipping & handling.
|
Nylon Insert
Self-Locking Nut for 3/8" diameter threaded L-shaped clutch adjustment/release
rod. Replace OEM adjusting nut with worn threads to maintain correct clutch
adjustment on virtually all clutch drive Cub Cadet garden tractors. Grade
8 material with 3/8-24 UNF threads. Guaranteed to stay tight. NOTE: Use
a (9/16" size) boxed-in ratcheting wrench (below) for easier and precise
clutch adjustment.
-
High quality aftermarket nylon insert self-locking nut. $1.50 each,
plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Cub Cadet nylon insert self-locking nut, part # 912-3061. $4.38
each, plus shipping & handling.
|
9/16"
size open-end and boxed-in ratcheting wrench for easier and precise Cub Cadet
clutch adjustment. High quality and durable. Spring-loaded catch and
release action. Makes clutch adjustment much easier, more accurate and quicker
than using an ordinary open-end or boxed-end wrench. Turn wrench around to
forward or reverse nut to increase or decrease clutch lever to
clutch release/throw-out bearing clearance.
|
Clutch Release
Tension Spring for all narrow, wide and spread frame Cub Cadet models. Slips
over threaded end of 3/8" diameter L-shaped clutch adjustment/release rod.
Necessary to maintain correct clutch adjustment and reduce clutch noise.
Also fits mower deck lift handle rod. Dimensions: 13/32" I.D. x 3-3/4"
uncompressed length.
-
High quality aftermarket. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Cub Cadet part #'s 932-3005, 932-3023. $12.25 each, plus shipping
& handling.
|
Clutch Pedal Return
Springs. A must for clutch-drive Cub Cadet garden tractors to prevent premature
wear to clutch release/throw-out bearing
and clutch release lever, and prevent annoying
rattling sound. Fits Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, 100, 102, 104, 105, 122,
123, 124 and 125. 2-1/2" unextended length between hooks.
-
High quality aftermarket. Heavy duty. $5.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-370278-R2. $9.30 each, plus shipping &
handling.
Clutch Pedal Return Springs.
A must for clutch-drive Cub Cadet garden tractors to prevent premature wear
to clutch release/throw-out bearing and clutch
release lever, and prevent annoying rattling
sound. Fits Cub Cadet models 73, 86, 106, 107, 108, 109, 126, 127, 128, 129,
147, 149, 169, 580, 582, 1604, 1606, brakes and connections on model 582
w/serial number 720000 and below, 800, 1000, 1200, 1050 w/serial numbers
756,300-799,999, brakes-1535 w/serial numbers 800,000-821,059, brakes-1806
w/serial number 756,300-799,999. 2-3/4" unextended length between hooks.
-
High quality aftermarket. Heavy duty. $5.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
OEM Cub Cadet part # 932-3015. $9.30 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
How to Save a Used Clutch Release/Throw-Out Bearing - An ingenious
and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this.
If
a used clutch release/throw-out bearing is
still pretty much "tight," but sounds noisy or "rattles" when you spin it
by hand, it could be saved from further wear by pumping it full of lubricating
grease. The same can be done to a new bearing to ensure that it will last
a long time. (I've done this many times when I rebuild clutch assemblies
and have never had one complaint!) The fresh grease will help keep the
balls within the bearing well-lubricated and cool, preventing them from further
wear. But if the bearing is badly worn or if you're in doubt about doing
this, then perhaps install a new one. (Cub Cadet part # 741-3056)
When assembling the clutch
components, never install the clutch release/throw-out bearing on the
driveshaft backwards! Install it with the collar (the center part that
sticks out) towards the clutch disc.
How To Save A Used clutch release/throw-out bearing:
-
Drill a 3/32" hole in the grease/dust seal on the back side of the bearing.
-
Wash the entire bearing with either
electrical contact cleaner,
brake parts cleaner,
cleaning solvent or
paint thinner until the rollers are free of the drill cuttings
and debris on the inside. It's clean when the sound changes when it's
spun by hand and when it spins more freely.
-
Use [150± psi] compressed air to blow-dry the entire bearing, including
the inside. But don't spin the bearing with the air! Doing this could further
damage the bearing!
-

Using either a
needle grease injector (resembles a hypodermic syringe
that attaches to an
automotive grease gun) or a
chainsaw bar tip grease gun, pump the bearing through the
drilled hole until it's full of lubricating grease. Rotate the bearing 180º
and pump it again. It's full when the grease starts to ooze out of the dust
seals.
-
Thoroughly wipe the grease from around the hole with a clean rag and apply
a dab of
clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant over the hole.
-
When reinstalling the clutch release/throw-out
bearing, remember that the protruding part, the part that sticks out,
faces forward in the tractor.
-
And do not "ride the clutch"! Take your foot off the clutch pedal when
the tractor is in motion.
The same procedure above È can be done
to many types of used precision, high-speed sealed roller bearings, besides
just clutch release/throw-out bearings. And
for anyone who's ever wondered about this, when the clutch/brake pedal is
fully depressed, the clutch release/throw-out bearing moves back 3/8" on
the driveshaft.
Advertisement:
If you would
like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website,
and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance and support,
please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank
Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.
When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly
with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to
the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we
can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
|
 Self-Centering, Self-Aligning Bearings and Retainers for front
of IH Cub Cadet "Original" driveshaft.
-
High quality aftermarket. Self-aligning 5/8" I.D. sealed ball bearing with
two-bolt two-piece stamped steel retainers. 2-1/2" bolt spacing. Bearing
swivels and is centered in retainers. Bearing inner race has 2 Allen set
screws for locking to driveshaft. $20.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
High quality aftermarket. Stamp steel retainers only. Replaces Cub Cadet
part # IH-376272-R1. Discontinued from Cub Cadet. $5.00/pair, plus
shipping & handling.
-
OEM Cub Cadet part #'s IH-468391-R11 (eccentric locking collar) and IH-468390-R93
(collar bearing). Reuse old retainers. $33.25 each, plus shipping
& handling.
|
Bronze Bushing. Fits inside
IH Cub Cadet "Original" clutch release collar housing. Grind or drill hole
in bushing to lubricate through Zerk grease
fitting. Dimensions: 1" I.D. x 1.125" O.D. x 1" length. Discontinued
from Cub Cadet. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-376259-R1.
-
$4.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Needle Thrust Bearing and
Two Thrust Washers. Goes inside IH Cub Cadet "Original" clutch release collar
housing. Dimensions: 1" I.D. x 1-9/16" O.D. x .030" thickness thrust washers.
-
High quality aftermarket. Includes needle thrust bearing and two thrust washers.
$12.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
-
Needle Thrust Bearing only. OEM Cub Cadet part # 741-3083. $12.80
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Needle Bearing and Two Thrust Washers Kit. OEM Cub Cadet part # 741-3083
(bearing) and TC-780007 (two thrust washers). $23.75 per kit, plus
shipping & handling.
|
IH Cub Cadet "Original" Clutch
Release Collar Assembly. Replace worn-beyond-reuse clutch release collar
housing. Includes clutch release collar housing, new bronze bushing and new
thrust needle bearing with two new thrust washers. Discontinued from Cub
Cadet. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-376258-R11.
-
$135.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
|
Extra Thick Flat Washer. Used
to apply pressure against rear pressure plate in IH Cub Cadet "Original"
clutch assembly. Dimensions: 1-3/4" O.D. x approximately 5/32" thickness
x .626" center hole. Discontinued from Cub Cadet. Replaces Cub Cadet part
# IH-25556-R1.
-
Fabricated A-1 Miller part. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Clutch Release/Throw-Out
Bearings for all narrow frame IH Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71,
72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124 and 126. Bearing dimensions: 5/8" I.D.
x 1.570" O.D. NOTE: The protruding center part of the bearing faces forward
in the tractor, toward the engine.
-
High quality aftermarket. Precision, high-speed sealed collar bearing. Our
part # 150-543. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Cub Cadet part # 941-3056. $81.60 each, plus shipping & handling.
Clutch Release/Throw-Out Bearing
for wide frame/solid mounted engine IH Cub Cadet garden tractor models 86,
108 and 128. Precision, high-speed sealed collar bearing w/short pressed-in
sleeve. This custom-made larger diameter throw-out bearing makes more contact
in the clutch release lever for less wear to the lever. Bearing dimensions:
.780" I.D. x 1.850" O.D. x .550" height. NOTE: The protruding center part
of the bearing faces forward in the tractor, toward the engine.
-
A-1 Miller's part. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Lubricating Sleeve with
Zerk grease
fitting for use with the short clutch release/throw-out bearings
above È. When reassembling clutch parts
on narrow- or wide-frame Cub Cadet driveshaft, a thin coat of lubricating
grease between the clutch release/throw-out bearing and driveshaft is all
they receive for the life of the driveshaft until it's disassembled again
for rebuilding. This part allows for easy lubrication and saves wear to
driveshaft from sliding friction due to movement of clutch release/throw-out
bearing, especially with a heavy (red or yellow) main pressure spring. Also
allows for easier and smoother clutch pedal depression. Sleeve installs between
clutch release/throw-out bearing and main pressure spring with grease
fitting toward the spring for easier access. Heavy wall tubing measures
.626" I.D. x 1" O.D. x 3/4"± length. Third coiled/spiral pin hole or
split clamping/locking
collar(s) behind pressure spring may need to be relocated 3/4"
further back on the driveshaft. IMPORTANT: Lubricate driveshaft through
grease fitting in bushing with
automotive grease gun once a year. An ingenious,
thoroughly researched and innovative concept invented by Brian Miller, because
nobody else advertise the use of this part.
-
$10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Clutch Release/Throw-Out Bearings
for wide- and spread-frame ISO-mounted engine IH- and MTD-built Cub Cadet
garden tractor models 580, 582, 800, 1000, 1050, 1200, 1535, 1604, 1606 and
1806. Also fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 1250, 1450 and 1650 with
hydrostatic disconnect attachment. Bearing dimensions: .780" I.D. x 1.850"
O.D. x .550" height. This larger diameter bearing covers more area in
the wide and spread frame release levers for
longer wear to lever. IMPORTANT: Lubricate driveshaft through bushing with
an
automotive grease gun once a year.
-
High quality aftermarket precision, high-speed sealed bearing only. Has two
steel dust/dirt shields. Reuse your OEM bushing. Bushing presses into bearing.
$10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
High quality aftermarket precision, high-speed sealed bearing w/aftermarket
OEM-length bushing and Zerk grease fitting. $50.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
OEM Cub Cadet clutch release/throw-out bearing w/bushing and Zerk grease
fitting. Includes part #'s 703-0600 (bearing w/bushing), 737-0146 (grease
fitting). $75.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Teasing Spring and Protective
Thrust Washer. Fits all Cub Cadet clutch drive garden tractors, including
Cub Cadet "Original" and Cub Cadet models 1250, 1450 and 1650 equipped with
a hydrostatic disconnect attachment. The thrust washer goes between the rear
slotted pressure plate and teasing spring. Each time the clutch is engaged,
sometimes the end of the spring will "catch" in the slot of the pressure
plate, which twists the spring a few thousandths of an inch. Overtime, this
creates metal fatigue in the spring and could cause it to eventually break,
even with the cup/spacer below. The thrust washer prevents this from happening.
FYI: There is a custom-made sleeve available from an aftermarket vendor that
goes over the teasing spring (much like the cup/spacer below). But being
the teasing spring does not expand outward when the clutch is engaged, this
sleeve will not prevent the spring from possibly twisting and breaking.
Therefore, it's been proven to best use the protective thrust washer instead.
An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no
advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging
my intelligence.)
-
Protective Thrust Washer Only. .050"± thickness. No need to use this
part on the Cub Cadet "Original". $1.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
Teasing Spring Only. OEM Cub Cadet part # 732-3017. $6.55 each, plus
shipping & handling.
-
Teasing Spring and Protective Thrust Washer Kit. $7.55 per kit, plus
shipping & handling.
|
Cup/Spacer for Teasing
Spring. Specifically used in Cub Cadet clutch drive garden tractor models
580, 582, 800, 1000, 1200, 1535, 1604, 1606 and 1806, including Cub Cadet
models 1250, 1450 and 1650 equipped with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment.
Overall length: .605". IMPORTANT: When installing this part on
the driveshaft, the wide/flared-end faces forward and the narrow end goes
against the throw-out bearing. And do not install this part in any other
model of Cub Cadet garden tractor then listed above in an attempt to prevent
the teasing spring from possibly breaking over time. (Use the thrust washer
above instead.) Doing so will position the throw-out bearing further back
on the driveshaft than in the original position and not allow the clutch
disc to either fully disengage or disengage at all.
-
OEM Cub Cadet part # 911-3040. $19.55 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Zerk
Grease Fittings. Use a 1/4-28 UNF hand tap to cut new threads for
installation of a new fitting.
Click or tap here
to learn how to cut new threads, the professional way.
-
Straight fitting. Short length; use for steering ends/joints, etc. 1/4-28
UNF threads x 35/64" length x 5/16" hex. Replaces Cub Cadet part # 737-3001.
.50¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Straight fitting. Longer length; use in wheel hubs to lubricate bushings
or bearings. 1/4-28 UNF threads x 11/16" length x 5/16" hex. Replaces Cub
Cadet part # 737-3001. .50¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
-
45º fitting. 1/4-28 UNF threads x 5/16" hex. Replaces Cub Cadet part
# IH-273360. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
90º fitting. 1/4-28 UNF threads x 5/16" hex. .75¢ each,
plus shipping & handling. [Return
to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]
|
IH Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Mechanical PTO
Clutch Rebuild Components - [Top of Page]
Carbon Wear Button for IH
Cub Cadet Mechanical PTO Clutch. Fits garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73,
86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127,
128, 129, 147, 149 and 169. This part installs in the mower deck engagement
lever on the frame of tractor. It makes contact with the metal button to
the right. Secure with Super Glue. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-473483-R2.
$8.05 each, plus shipping & handling. |
Metal Thrust Button for
IH Cub Cadet Mechanical PTO Clutch. Fits garden tractor models 70, 71, 72,
73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126,
127, 128, 129, 147, 149 and 169. This part installs in the center of the
PTO clutch assembly. It makes contact with the carbon button to the left.
OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-473477-R3. $11.65 each, plus shipping &
handling. |
The Clutch Pedal Return Spring and Maintaining
Proper Clutch Adjustment -

Install the clutch pedal return spring to prevent from wearing
both the clutch release/throw-out bearing
and release lever. Don't just install a cotter
pin in place of it. A pedal return spring is a short, very stiff, expansion
spring with a hook on each end. The size is approximately 3/4" diameter x
2-1/8" in overall length. And do not "ride the clutch"! Take your foot
off the clutch pedal when the tractor is in motion.
The return spring connects from the hole in the end of the clutch
adjustment/release rod to a hole in the cross member that's in the tractor's
frame. Install one end of the spring in the linkage first, then install the
other end in the cross member. NOTE: It may be difficult to get the end
of the spring in the hole because of the tension, but it can be done and
it MUST be done. (I do it all the time with our muscles, Vise Grips and a
little leverage from our trusty small pry bar.)
There are no adjustments for the pedal return spring. It's job is to prevent
the release lever from making connect with a
clutch release/throw-out bearing when the
clutch pedal is fully disengaged. The pedal return spring attaches from the
clutch adjustment/release rod that runs from the
release lever back to the bell crank that's on
the clutch/brake pedal shaft. This shaft goes crossways through the frame
of the tractor. It is very important that the tractor have a pedal return
spring to prevent wearing of the clutch
release/throw-out bearing against the release
lever (it will wear, too) while the clutch pedal is fully disengaged
and the tractor is in operation.
If a pedal return spring is not installed or if the operator "rides the clutch"
when pulling or when the tractor is in operation (keeping one's foot on the
clutch pedal at all times), this will cause the
clutch release/throw-out bearing to spin
the same speed as the engine, wearing it out prematurely. This will also
wear the release lever as well. So making the
proper adjustment and not "riding the clutch" will help the
clutch release/throw-out bearing last a very
long time. The return spring connects from the hole in the end of the clutch
adjustment/release rod to a hole in the cross member in the tractor's frame.
NOTE: It may be somewhat difficult to get the end of the spring in the
hole because of the tension, but it can be done, and it must be done. (I
do it all the time with our Vise Grips and a little leverage from our trusty
small pry bar.)
How to Set the Correct Cub Cadet Drive Clutch Adjustment -
When the clutch/brake pedal
is fully disengaged (not depressed), no part of the
clutch release/throw-out bearing is supposed
to make contact with the clutch release lever.
Otherwise, the clutch
release/throw-out bearing will turn the same RPM as the engine. If
these continually make contact with the engine running and while the tractor
is in motion, the driveshaft will continually spin the
throw-out bearing, causing it to overheat
and eventually burn-out, and the contact area on the
release lever will likely to wear excessively.
The excessive heat from the overheated throw-out bearing could travel into
and weaken (damage) the front end of the main pressure spring too, making
it place less pressure against the clutch disc. This will occur with ordinary
lawn and garden, and competition pulling tractors alike. Therefore, to determine
the proper clearance and adjust for the "safe" distance between the
throw-out
bearing and release lever, with the
clutch/brake pedal fully disengaged (not depressed) and the clutch/brake
pedal arm against the pedal stop, which is a small angled steel spot-welded
to the tractor frame, and with a pedal return spring installed, adjust the
self-locking nut on the L-shaped clutch adjustment/release rod (that's on
the lower part of the release lever) until there's
approximately 9/32" - 5/16" of clearance between the pedal arm and pedal
stop. This will allow for .050" - .060" (approximately 1/16") of clearance
between the throw-out
bearing and release lever.
Use a
9/16" size boxed-in ratcheting wrench to
make the clutch adjustment much easier. And an accurate way to check for
the correct clearance between the clutch
release/throw-out bearing and clutch release
lever is to use a 7mm or 5/16" rod or square stock as a thickness gauge.
When the self-locking nut on the L-shaped adjustment/release rod is turned
clockwise (when facing the front of the tractor), this decreases the clearance,
and when the nut is turned counterclockwise, this increases the clearance.
Also, if a tractor doesn't already have one, definitely install a
pedal return spring
(extension spring) of the correct length on the clutch
adjustment/release rod to the hole in the cross member that's welded between
the frame rails so pressure from the release lever
will be taken off the clutch release/throw-out
bearing when the clutch/brake pedal is fully disengaged (not depressed)
to prevent from premature and excessive wearing of the clutch release/throw-out
bearing and/or release lever.
[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
Information About the Clutch Main Pressure Spring -
If a light-weight tractor with a governed engine (up to 4,000 RPM) is going
to be used for general yard work, it's okay to use the stock OEM Cub Cadet
pressure spring with the OEM composite/fiber clutch
disc. A good used stock OEM pressure spring and a new OEM spring should
measure no less than 6-1/2" in uncompressed length. The maximum length is
7". But the compressed length (on the driveshaft with the clutch pedal fully
depressed) is 5". If a spring has been used on a driveshaft with an overheated
or burned-out clutch release/throw-out bearing,
it's best to replace both. And if the pressure plates have been resurfaced
until perfectly flat, but the clutch still slips in the heavier chores,
perhaps a high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow
(1,150± lb.) spring may need to be installed. (See below
Ê.)
If the tractor stops pulling about halfway down the track, and if the engine
is still running, but the tires aren't spinning, then the clutch is slipping.
For the pressure plates to grip the clutch disc(s) firmly, the pressure spring
must be a very stout one. The Cub Cadet clutch pressure spring has about
250 psi of pressure and will probably not prevent the clutch from slipping
in a competition pulling tractor. Therefore, a high
pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring works
excellent with the OEM clutch disc, aluminum disc or double OEM clutches.
The OEM clutch release lever may need to be extended
3" with either of these springs for easier clutch pedal depression.
How to Reinforce the Clutch Release Lever
Brace on a Wide and Spread Frame Cub Cadet When Using the Yellow Spring -
Install a piece of 1/8" x 1" x (you'll need to measure the length if the
transaxle have been moved rearward) flat steel from the center of the clutch
release lever brace back to one of the upper
bolts on the front of the transaxle. Use grade 8 bolts so it can be removed
later in case of repairs. This is much easier to do on a
platform work table.
[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
Advertisement:
If you would
like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website,
and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance and support,
please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank
Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.
When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly
with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to
the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we
can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
|
OEM
Cub Cadet Clutch Compression Springs. Suitable for general lawn and
garden work only; not recommended for competition pulling. 6-3/4" to 7"
uncompressed length.
-
Used and in excellent condition. $15.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
New. OEM Cub Cadet part # 932-3016. $37.50 each, plus shipping &
handling.
High Pressure Clutch Compression Springs; 800± lb. "Red" Spring,
and 1,150± lb. "Yellow" Spring. Fits all models of clutch-drive
Cub Cadet garden tractors. These springs are a direct replacement for OEM
Cub Cadet clutch pressure spring. Depending on type of clutch disc used,
the Red spring is suitable for Hot-Stock and NQS Stock-Altered tractors,
and the Yellow spring is suitable for 16hp Missouri Super-Stock, Pro-Stock
and Modified tractors. Ideal for use with my
aluminum clutch disc or double
composite/fiber clutch disc setup. When installed,
either spring should be compressed to 4-1/2" length. With either of these
stiff springs, the OEM clutch release lever should be extended 3" for easier
depression of the clutch/brake pedal. When installing either of these springs,
use the original 3rd coiled/spiral pin hole location on the driveshaft, which
should measure 9-1/4" - 9-3/8" from the very front of the driveshaft, or
install one or two split clamping/locking
collar(s) at 9-1/4" - 9-3/8" from the very front of the driveshaft with
a center support pillow block bearing and
brace to prevent driveshaft wobble and reduce chance of driveshaft breakage
at wide open throttle operation. Dimensions of each spring: 5/8" I.D. x 1-1/4"
O.D. x 6" length.
-
800± lb. "Red" Spring. $22.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
1,150± lb. "Yellow" Spring. $24.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
(± means more or less PSI depending on compressed length of spring
when installed on driveshaft.)
Steel Flat Washer for OEM, 800
lb. and 1,150 lb. clutch pressure springs above. Prevents end of spring from
uncoiling around 3rd coiled/spiral pin. Not required when either spring is
used with split clamping/locking collar.
|
There are 4 steps in Installing a Double-Disc Clutch Setup
Step #1 - "Notch" the Release Lever and Relocate it's Bracket:
There are two options of doing this. Either way you choose to do it, you
will need to make room for the extra clutch disc and center drive plate.
Option #1:
-
Relocate the bracket the release lever is connected
to rearward 3/8". Or for a very stiff pressure spring, use a piece of minimum
3/16" thickness angled steel to fasten the bracket onto, and weld the angled
steel to the frame. Be sure the angled steel is located 3/8" further back
than the original bracket was.
-
Only on the narrow frame Cub Cadets, cut out
the lower part of the clutch release lever so
it'll clear the steering box, when the clutch/brake pedal is fully depressed.
Also, cut out a place in the frame so the release
lever will clear it when the clutch/brake pedal is fully depressed.
-
Cut 3/8" off the threaded end of the clutch adjustment/release rod. If
this is not done, the rod will be too long and interfere with the rear clutch
disc.
-
NOTE: The steel spacer that replaces the teasing spring can't be left
out for double clutches because the longer partially threaded studs in the
drive plate would hit the release lever
when the clutch is engaged.
Option #2:
Instead of relocating the bracket and notching the lever, the engine mounting
holes that's in the frame can be welded up, grind the weld flat, and drill
new holes exactly 3/8" forward (toward the front of the tractor) from the
original holes. You'll also need a longer driveshaft, 3/8" longer to be exact.
You'll also need to drill the #1 hole forward 3/8", then drill the other
holes same as in the original driveshaft. (Remember to wear safety glasses!)
When using a deep sump oil pan, with the front axle in the stock position
and when moving the engine forward, the axle pivot pin would interfere with
the pan. For pulling competitively, the front axle would need to be moved
as far forward as it'll go for better
weight distribution. But if your club's rules don't allow the front axle
to be moved forward, then a flat bottom oil pan can be used, then the engine
can be moved forward with no problems. Of course, half of the dipper on the
connecting rod would need to be cut off, too.
Either the engine can be moved forward or the bracket moved rearward. Either
way, one or the other will need to be relocated to accommodate for the extra
clutch disc and center plate so the clutch will function properly.
Using a Volkswagen Clutch Assembly in a Cub Cadet -
The third type of clutch that some pullers use is a Volkswagen clutch assembly
(starter, flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate and
clutch release/throw-out bearing and
release lever) adapted to the Kohler crankshaft
with a special-made tapered hub adapter. This type of clutch is made for
the 1974 Volkswagen's and earlier with the air-cooled engine. They weigh
more than the double clutch assembly as described above
È (about 22 lbs. lighter, less hub)
and they hold extremely well even in a highly modified (50+ c.i.) garden
tractor. Also, the Volkswagen flywheel, starter ring gear and clutch assembly
require the Volkswagen starter. An adapter that replaces the Kohler-type
flywheel must be fastened onto the crankshaft for the Volkswagen flywheel
to work. And the starter must be adapted onto the Kohler engine block with
a special bracket. The Volkswagen clutch comes in two sizes, 180mm and 200mm,
with the 180mm being the choice for garden tractor pulling. This type of
starter and clutch assembly is losing popularity with pullers who run the
50+ c.i. garden tractors because of it's excessive [forward] weight.
Improving International Harvester's IH Cub
Cadet "Original" Clutch Assembly - [Top of Page]
The first Cub Cadet model
made was the International Cub Cadet tractor, better known as the
IH Cub Cadet "Original". The reason this particular tractor
is called the "Original" because they're the very first Cub Cadet garden
tractor that International Harvester produced. That's why most folks nowadays
call them the IH Cub Cadet "Original". They didn't have a model number because
they were all built basically the same, and they all shared the same parts.
On these tractors, the power is transferred from a small pulley that is on
the engine, onto a larger pulley that is on the driveshaft by use of a V
belt, which act like a gear reduction. It's approximately a 1.6:1 reduction.
This means that engine torque is increased 1.6 times to the driveshaft because
the clutch/driveshaft assembly turns 1.6 times slower than the engine. This
increases the power of the original 6¼hp into a 10hp engine.
Replacing the Drive V-Belt -
To remove and install the drive belt on an IH Cub Cadet "Original", the entire
clutch assembly needs to be removed. After installing the belt and reinstalling
the clutch assembly, the belt needs to be tightened by pulling down on the
front brace of the clutch assembly (use a pry bar), and tighten the bolts.
This is much easier to do on a
platform work table.
Convert the V-Belt Drive System to a Chain/Sprocket Drive -
The V-belt on the Cub Cadet "Original" can be converted for use with a chain
and sprocket drive. This system works great because there'll no belt to slip
or rob the engine of horsepower. To make this possible:
-
The aluminum hub/pulley (next to the flywheel) will need to replaced with
a precision machined hub/sprocket. NOTE: The sprocket diameter can vary
to decrease or increase the ground speed of the tractor.
-
The V-groove as part of the clutch/pulley (on the driveshaft) will need to
be machined down to accept a sprocket.
-
The chain tension can be adjusted the same way the belt is tightened.
Repairing the Drive Clutch -
If the drive clutch holds well, but will not release at times, this means
the sliding parts on the driveshaft are dry or the old grease has accumulated
dirt and/or has "dried up," causing the parts to bind on the driveshaft.
How to Disassemble and Reassemble the IH Cub Cadet "Original" Clutch Assembly
-
-
Use a big bench vise to disassemble and reassemble the clutch assembly.
-
Place the front of the driveshaft in the jaws of the vise (with a couple
of soft aluminum angled pieces placed in the vice jaws, of course), and tighten
down the jaws
-
Use a 3-4 lb. hammer to drive the driveshaft forward until the first
coiled/spiral pin can be removed.
-
Remove the driveshaft from the vise, and slide off the pressure plates and
clutch/pulley.
-
Place the driveshaft in the vise again, and butt the splined piece against
the jaws of the vise and remove the pin from the splined piece.
-
Place a small screwdriver in the front coiled/spiral pin hole (so the driveshaft
so it will not shoot out of the vise), and carefully loosen the vise to remove
it.
-
Reassembly is the opposite of disassembly.
But if the clutch slips, performing the following should cure the
problem:
First, resurface the cast iron pressure plates on a large, flat
disc or belt sander until they're perfectly flat. If the
clutch discs (which is part of the pulley) aren't worn excessively, they
can be sanded flat as well to match the flatness of the pressure plates.
Just remove the raised places, no more. But if the composite/fiber material
is worn thin or if you have doubts that it will not grip well, then install
new clutch facings on the pulley.
If the clutch composite/fiber material "peels off" or comes loose from the
pulley, it can be reattached with a high strength adhesive, such as
Krazy Glue,
Super Glue,
Gorilla Glue, etc. FYI - When storing an opened container
of Super Glue or liquid threadlock material, store it upright and not laying
flat. The [capped] tip will not dry out and clog when stored upright.
As soon as the composite/fiber material is adhered on the pulley, place the
clutch/pulley assembly between two thick flat steel plates to cover the entire
composite/fiber material, then place them in a
hydraulic press and apply light pressure to squeeze out
any air bubbles that may get trapped so the composite/fiber material will
have a stronger bond and lay flat. If a hydraulic press isn't available,
then using one of the tires that's on a car or truck will place enough pressure,
too. After the glue has dried, lightly sand the composite/fiber material
on a large, flat
disc or belt sander to ensure true flatness.
For even better clutch adhesion or "holding power," the OEM pressure spring
can be replaced with a high pressure red (800±
lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring. Be sure to drill the 3rd hole
to 1/4" and install a heavy coiled/spiral pin, too! Install a new bronze
bushing in the clutch release/throw-out bearing
if it's worn. Then lubricate the clutch release/throw-out bearing through
the factory-installed Zerk grease fitting.
Under normal use, the clutch release/throw-out bearing needs to be lubricated
once a year.
And as far as I'm aware, new composite/fiber facings for the IH Cub Cadet
"Original" clutch is not available from any source. But 6061 aluminum can
be used as clutch facings on the IH Cub Cadet "Original" clutch pulley. The
dimensions of the fabricated aluminum clutch facings are as follows: 4-1/2"
O.D. x 3" I.D. x 1/8" thick.
Fasten the aluminum to the pulley
with six (for strength) 10-32 UNF x 1/2" length flat head brass screws equally
spaced apart on each side. Offset the threaded holes in the pulley so the
threads of the screws on one side will not interfere with the screws on the
other side. Countersink the heads of the screws into the aluminum with the
heads slightly below the surface of the aluminum. Make sure the aluminum
is perfectly flat before installing it on the pulley, too. And of course,
when using aluminum as clutch material, a stiffer-than-stock pressure spring,
such as the high pressure red (800± lb.) or
yellow (1,150± lb.) spring, will be required to prevent clutch slippage.
Advertisement:
If you would
like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website,
and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance and support,
please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank
Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.
When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly
with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to
the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we
can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
|
Repair Service -
Professionally machine worn hole in Cub Cadet "Original" [round] clutch release
arm and install new steel bushing/sleeve to remove excessive free play in
clutch pedal. Bushing is pressed in tight so it will not loosen. Discontinued
from Cub Cadet. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-376276-R1. (Part number shown for
identification purpose only.)
-
$30.00 for bushing and labor, plus return shipping & handling.
|
Clutch Release Rod for IH
Cub Cadet "Original". Discontinued from Cub Cadet. Replaces Cub Cadet part
# IH-376277-R1.
-
Used and in excellent condition. $20.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. (When available.)
-
New. Fabricated A-1 Miller part. $40.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
|
Extra Thick Flat Washer. Used
to apply pressure against rear pressure plate in IH Cub Cadet "Original"
clutch assembly. Dimensions: 1-3/4" O.D. x approximately 5/32" thickness
x .626" center hole. Discontinued from Cub Cadet. Replaces Cub Cadet part
# IH-25556-R1.
-
Fabricated A-1 Miller part. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
An engine that runs at high RPM or at
wide
open throttle, the bronze bushing in the IH Cub Cadet "Original" clutch
disc/pulley will not last long under side-thrust. Therefore, it'll be a good
idea to have a sealed, high speed radial ball bearing installed in the
clutch/pulley disc. See the picture below
Ê for a better understanding.
-
  New OEM-quality
bronze pilot bushing for all pre-1981 gear drive IH Cub Cadets, except "Quiet
Line" models. Also replacement bushing for inside the IH Cub Cadet "Original"
clutch disc/pulley. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Rebuild IH Cub Cadet "Original" clutch assembly to OEM specs. $60.00
labor only, plus return shipping & handling. Labor includes: Disassemble
complete unit, thoroughly clean and inspect all parts, resurface both pressure
plates to remove warpage and resurface composite/fiber clutch facings to
restore flatness. Parts includes: New bronze bushing in clutch disc/pulley
and clutch release/throw-out bearing assembly (if needed), lubricate bushings
and install new coiled/spiral pins.
-
High-quality, high-speed sealed radial ball bearing: add $4.00. (5/8"
I.D. x 1-3/8" O.D.)
-
Bore center of clutch disc/pulley and install a high-quality, high-speed
sealed radial ball bearing. (Intended mainly for competition pulling tractors
with an engine that runs at high RPMs or at wide open throttle.) An ingenious
and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this
service.
$50.00 for bearing and labor.
-
Build up welding on driveshaft and machine it smooth (for installation of
ball bearing in pulley): add $25.00 labor.
-
Driveshaft for IH Cub Cadet "Original." Available in 1144 Stress Proof
steel only. Please specify with or without creeper drive. "T" cross bracket
welded to shaft and coiled/spiral pin holes drilled. $65.00 each,
plus shipping & handling.
-
NOTE: If you're interested in having A-1 Miller's do the work for
you, please send your clutch assembly when you're ready to the address below
Ê. Package it securely so it won't get
damaged or lost in shipping and please include a note in the package with
your name, complete mailing address, phone number, email address (in case
I have any questions) and a description of what you want done any other parts
you may need. When the work is completed, I'll either call or email you an
invoice with the total including shipping. For payment, I accept cash (in
person), money orders, cashier's checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover (your
credit/debit card will be charged the same day the items are shipped), Western
Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram Money Transfers. Or you can pay A-1 Miller's
through PayPal (my PayPal account name is my email address). If sending a
money order, please include a note with your name, complete mailing address,
phone number and a description of what the payment is for. My mailing address
and phone number are below Ê. And I will
return your rebuilt clutch assembly to you as soon as the work is completed
after I receive your payment.

The drive belt for an IH Cub Cadet "Original" is part number
IH-376230-R1, the size is 3/8" wide x 31-1/2" length and it retails for about
$12.00 (as of 3/21/12). |
(Updated 7/22/20)
[Top of Page]
How to Remove the IH Cub Cadet PTO Starter
Pulley/Basket from the Crankshaft Without Damage and How to Prevent the IH
Cub Cadet PTO Starter Pulley/Basket from Loosening on the
Crankshaft


Tools and parts required are: Drill press (or milling machine
for better accuracy), 5/16" drill bit (or 5/16"
countersink bit for better accuracy), 1/4"
transfer punch, two 5/16-18 UNC x 5/8" length Allen set
screws, and two 5/16-18 UNC
jam nuts.
-
Remove the pulley from the crankshaft. Be careful not to bend or damage
it in any way.
-
Remove the OEM set screws from the pulley and the keystock from the crankshaft.
Set them aside for another project. They won't be needed for this fix.
-
Reinstall the pulley on the crankshaft, position the outer edge of the hub
exactly 1-1/8" from the end of the crankshaft, install one of the 5/8" length
Allen set screws in the hub with the keyway and tighten it in the keyway
slot.
-
Going through the other set screw hole (that's located at the 3:00 position
or 90° of the keyway slot), use the 1/4" transfer punch to place a mark
on the crankshaft dead center of the hole. Don't go by the original indention
mark on the crankshaft that the OEM set screw made, because if the pulley
was loose, the indention may not be dead center with the hole.
-
Remove the pulley and use the 5/16" drill bit and drill press to create an
1/8" deep hole (dimple) dead center of the punch mark.
-
Reinstall the pulley on the crankshaft, install a 5/8" length Allen set screw
in the hub and tighten it securely into the drilled hole.
-
Install the other 5/8" length Allen set screw in the keyway slot and tighten
it securely.
-
Install the jam nuts on the set screws and tighten them securely to prevent
the set screws (and pulley) from loosening overtime. NOTE: The 5/8" length
set screws and jam nuts are short enough to not make contact with the pressure
plate on the PTO clutch assembly.
By the way - I have a heavy duty 2-jaw gear puller that we use with a large
c-clamp to remove the mechanical PTO clutch/pulley from Cub Cadet engines.
But sometimes these clutch/pulleys will not remove without breaking. I do
all I can to try to prevent this from happening, but when they do break,
I have no choice but to install a rebuilt PTO clutch/pulley assembly. I also
made a special puller tool to remove the large stamped steel PTO pulley from
the crankshaft without damage.
Advertisement:
If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services
listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises
| 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia,
MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving
a voice message, please speak slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday,
except holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try
again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I
stutter.)
E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.
When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing
directly with the owner for the best customer
service. A-1 Miller's shop is open
to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please
call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we
can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
|
Rebuild Kit for IH Cub Cadet
Mechanical PTO Clutch Assembly. Fits IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractor models
70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108 (serial number 481999
& below), 109 (serial number 481999 & below), 122, 123, 124, 125,
126, 127, 128 (serial number 481999 & below), 129 (serial number 481999
& below) and 147. OEM Cub Cadet part # 759-3490. $94.15 each,
plus shipping & handling. |
Rebuild Kit for IH Cub Cadet
Mechanical PTO Clutch Assembly. Fits IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractor models
86, 108, 109, 128 (serial number 482000 & up), 129 (serial number 482000
& up), 149 (serial number 481999 & below) and 169. Install both pressure
springs to prevent clutch slippage. OEM Cub Cadet part # 759-3489.
$97.40 each, plus shipping & handling. |
PTO Clutch Release
Compression Springs for IH Cub Cadet Mechanical PTO Clutch Assembly. Fits
IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractor models: 71, 72, 73, 86, 102, 104, 105,
106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149 and
169. These fit over the three 1/4" tapered-head bolts, and between the pressure
plate, fiber clutch disc and clutch/pulley hub to separate the clutch disc
from the pressure plate and clutch/pulley hub when the PTO lever is disengaged.
Replace overheated and collapsed springs so the mowing blades will fully
disengage for safety.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Cub Cub part # IH-27452-D. $3.00
per set of three springs, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-27452-D. $5.15 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
PTO Clutch Throw-Out
Lever for IH Cub Cadet Mechanical PTO Clutch Assembly. Fits IH-built Cub
Cadet garden tractor models: 71, 72, 73, 86, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108,
109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149 and 169. Replace worn
or bent lever so clutch will engage and disengage properly. Three required
per clutch assembly. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-473478-R2.
-
Used and in excellent condition. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
(When available.)
-
New. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Carbon Wear Button for IH
Cub Cadet Mechanical PTO Clutch. Fits garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73,
86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127,
128, 129, 147, 149 and 169.This part installs in the mower deck engagement
lever on the frame of tractor. It makes contact with the metal button
below. Secure with Super Glue. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-473483-R2.
$8.05 each, plus shipping & handling. |
Metal Thrust Button for
IH Cub Cadet Mechanical PTO Clutch. Fits garden tractor models 70, 71, 72,
73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126,
127, 128, 129, 147, 149 and 169.This part installs in the center of the
PTO clutch assembly. It makes contact with the carbon button above. OEM
Cub Cadet part # IH-473477-R3. $11.65 each, plus shipping & handling. |
Clutch/Pulley Hub for IH
Cub Cadet Mechanical PTO Clutch Assembly. Fits garden tractor models 70,
71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125,
126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149 and 169.
-
Used and in excellent condition. $85.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. (When available.)
-
OEM Kohler part # IH-59983-C3. $166.85 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-385290-R1. $196.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
|
Pressure Plate for IH Cub
Cadet Mechanical PTO Clutch Assembly. Replace rusted pressure plate for proper
clutch engage and less wear to the fiber clutch disc. Fits garden tractor
models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123,
124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149 and 169. Made of extremely hardened
heat-treated steel. Discontinued from Cub Cadet. OEM Cub Cadet part #
IH-473471-R1.
-
Used and in excellent condition. $40.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. (When available.)
|
New Insert Bearing with
Eccentric Locking Collar for IH Cub Cadet Mechanical PTO Clutch Assembly.
Fits garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107,
108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149 and 169. Each
kit includes bearing, eccentric locking collar w/set screw and
jam nut. Bearing size: 1" I.D. x 2.04" O.D.
-
High quality aftermarket. Our part # 150545. $20.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
OEM Cub Cadet part #'s IH-60071-C92. $46.20 each, plus shipping &
handling.
|
Starter Pulley/Basket for
IH Cub Cadet Mechanical PTO Clutch Assembly. Fits garden tractor models 70,
71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125,
126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149 and 169.
-
Used and in excellent condition. $75.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. (When available.)
-
OEM Kohler part #'s 231591-S, KH-231591. $148.55 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-385290-R1. $196.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
|
A-1 Miller's
Computerized Stuska Water Brake Engine
Dynamometer
(Dyno) Service with DPM Data Logger Software to Test Horsepower and
Torque! | [Top of Page]
For performance testing of 10-16hp
single cylinder Kohler stock or competition pulling engines at speeds up
to 12,000 RPM. 100% accurate, customers can rent dyno time, fine tune and
make adjustments or changes to their engines to gain maximum horsepower and
torque, and print-out the results so their tractor(s) will be truly competitive
on the track. With an engine dyno, the puller can adjust their engine to
get maximum horsepower and torque, and gear their tractor appropriately to
have an advantage over the competition. NOTE: A fresh-built engine may
not produce full power until it's broke-in. This is when the valves wear-in
with the seats to completely seal in the compression. The rings will likely
hold the compression, but the valves may leak slightly until they wear into
the seats. This is normal for all engines and may take several hours or pulls
to happen, then the valves will be able to hold full compression. Lots of
pullers tell A-1 Miller's after I've built their engines that it seems to
pull stronger every time they pull it.
Engine Dyno Rental Fee: $50.00 per hour run time from the moment the
engine is started. No setup fee for Cub Cadet engines with a 3- or 6-pin/stud
clutch driver. An adapter may need to be needed or fabricated for other makes
and models of engines. Only engines with the narrow base oil pan can be tested.
Engines with the wide base (tall) oil pan cannot be tested at this time.
[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
Coming Soon - Detailed Illustrated
Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back and Self-Propelled Garden
Tractor Pulling Sled. FYI - The
professionally-built self-propelled pulling sled is the only one I've ever
built (click the picture to the right to see a larger image of this sled),
and I got it right the first time, with very few changes or modifications
that had to be made to it. I guess I'm just one of those kind of guys that
knows what he's doing. Pullers really like pulling our sled, too. They say
it's the best sled they've ever pulled. (Not bragging, just stating a fact.)
By the way - Track Master sled is engineered so well (by Brian Miller), that
other sled builders/owners have copied my well thought-out and proven design.
And I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence. Anyway, I have lots
of work to do in my shop and I work on the sled plans in my spare time. As
soon as my plans with an inventory list of parts to use are perfected, I'll
post the update in my websites with the prices of the plans. Remember -
Perfection takes time. If it's worth having, it's worth waiting for. Also,
I plan to acquire a bigger shop and may build high quality garden tractor
pulling sleds in the future to offer for sale. Please call 573-256-0313 (shop)
or 573-881-7229 (cell; text or voice message), or email
pullingtractor@aol.com if interested.
- Brian Miller
To place an order and/or for FREE professional and honest
technical assistance and support, please contact:
If you would
like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website,
and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance and support,
please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank
Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.
When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly
with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to
the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we
can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
To place an order, please call the number below
Ê or send an email with your name, complete
and correct postal address and phone number and so I can figure the total
with shipping cost and USPS Tracking. For payment options for parts ordered
or services performed, or to make a donation to my websites, I accept cash
(in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks,
MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total
for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge),
Western
Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram
Money Transfers. (If a part for a specific purpose is special ordered,
your debit/credit card may be charged for the full amount or as a deposit
right after your order is placed; please do not send your debit/credit card
information in email!) Or you can pay A-1 Miller's through PayPal. (My PayPal
account name is my email address. And be sure to mention in PayPal a description
of what the payment is for.) If sending a money order, please include a note
in the envelope with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone
number and a description of what the payment is for. My mailing address and
phone number are below Ê . I'll make
a note of your order, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should
take a few days to come in, but I will send the parts to you as soon as I
have everything in stock after I receive your payment.
IMPORTANT - When sending your part(s) to A-1 Miller's
for rebuilding or repair, package everything securely so the item(s) won't
get damaged in shipping and please include a note in the box with your name,
mailing address, phone number (in case I have any questions) and a description
of what you want done. When shipping heavy parts, it's best to put a slightly
smaller box inside a larger box, to double the strength and integrity of
the package. Because the clumsy "gorillas" or incompetent and uncaring workers
that work for certain delivery services mishandle the heavy packages and
don't care. And when the work is completed, I'll either call or email you
an invoice with the total including shipping & handling.
Payment Options and We Ship to Canada and
Worldwide 
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent
by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged
item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service
Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal
Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S.
territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground
or equivalent services. We try to keep our shipping cost to customers within
reason. Therefore, we don't ship our products in a fancy-looking package
with our company name and/or logo on it because most customers will just
toss it in the trash after they remove the contents.


To make a payment to A-1 Miller's through PayPal,
go to PayPal's secure website (
https://www.paypal.com/ ) and click
on Send and Request -> Pay for goods or services. Type in my email address,
or copy and paste this: pullingtractor@aol.com, the amount and follow the
directions. Be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment
is for. After you've finished, PayPal will send A-1 Miller's an email notifying
me that you have made a payment to A-1 Miller's for the product(s) or services
and amount entered. Then I go to their website and direct PayPal to deposit
the money in my bank account. And I will send the parts to you as soon as
I receive your payment. But I may have to order some of the parts if they're
not in stock, which should take a few days. In that case, I will send you
the parts as soon as they come in. PayPal protects your financial privacy
and security. With PayPal, privacy is built in. It's a way for you to pay
without exposing their financial information.
Or to
make a payment to me (pullingtractor@aol.com) in the US through the Venmo
app, please tap this link: venmo.com.
Or use
Cash App to make a payment to me
(pullingtractor@aol.com).
Ã
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maintained by Brian Miller.