Improving the Drive Clutch Assembly in a Cub Cadet

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Improving International Harvester's Cub Cadet "Original" (belt-to-clutch-drive) Clutch Assembly (Updated 11/20/10)
I can also professionally rebuild other garden tractor clutches of virtually any kind as well as Cub Cadet. Please contact me if interested.
FYI - I'm not an OEM Cub Cadet parts dealer. Cub Cadet won't let me become a dealer because there's already one in my area. (It's another way how big businesses support other big businesses, or how the rich help the rich get richer.) Besides, competition from different dealers in the same area helps keep prices low. I think this is unfair business practice because by allowing only one dealer in a wide-spread area can have them gouge (overcharge) unsuspecting customers on parts and/or repair costs. They probably laugh all the way to the bank after every sale, too.

On the direct-drive Cub Cadet, power from the engine is transferred to the transaxle through the clutch and driveshaft assembly. If the clutch is severely worn or if stock (OEM) parts may slip and little power or torque will be transferred, especially when using the tractor for competitive pulling (especially with a big engine in a fast gear), gardening or to haul heavy loads. An engine in a pulling tractor that's built to the max or runs at high rpms or at wide open throttle produces a lot more torque than what the engineers at Cub Cadet originally anticipated for the driveline to handle. Therefore, the clutch assembly is the weak point (and the carrier and axles), and will need to be reinforced and built up for strength for durability and to prevent slippage. Remember: towards the end of the track, if the tires don't spin or the engine bogs down, then the clutch will slip or something elsewhere in the driveline will possibly twist or break.

Types of Clutch Assemblies -

An ordinary clutch assembly for general yard work consist of a mild steel driveshaft, fiber clutch disc and a light-weight pressure spring. But a clutch assembly for competitive pulling and/or heavy yard work consist of a heavy duty 3- or 6-pin drive plate, either a stress-proof steel or stainless steel driveshaft, either a single- or double-fiber clutch disc, or a single aluminum clutch disc (depending on which class the tractor pulls in), and definitely a much stiffer pressure spring for placing a heavier load on the clutch disc. Also, the pressure plates will definitely need to be resurfaced until perfectly flat and trued-up in a small metal lathe to insure that the pressure plates will adhere to the clutch disc to prevent slippage. The same happens to automotive flywheels and pressure plates as the clutch disc wears. They need to be resurfaced too, when installing a new clutch disc. And the heavier or stronger the clutch assembly is, the more it will cost.

Cub Cadet made three different 3-pin clutch drive plates...

The first clutch drive plate is designed for the IH-built narrow- and wide-frame Cub Cadets models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124, 126, 86, 108 and 128 with a solid-mounted engine. It's made of flat solid, non-flexible 1/8" thickness steel, with a bronze bushing (pilot bearing) pressed in the center to support the driveshaft. This type of drive plate can also be used on the "Quiet Line" ISO-mounted tractors (below Ê) as long as solid motor mounts are also installed.
The second clutch drive plate is designed for the IH-built Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" models 800, 1000 and 1200 with an ISO-mounted engine (engine mounts on rubber to reduce overall tractor vibration and operator discomfort). This plate has a flat, thin, flexible, hardened steel center section riveted to a thicker outer flat plate of steel, and has a spherical-swivel bronze pilot bearing. Due to the engine being mounted on rubber, which cause it to "move around" while in operation, the thin center section in the drive plate breaks or become cracked after a few years of use. There is no way to prevent this damage except install solid motor mounts and a solid clutch drive plate (above È).
And the third clutch drive plate is designed for the IH-built 582's and all MTD-built Cub Cadets. It's made of 1/8" thick concaved (deep-dish) steel, and has a spherical-swivel bronze pilot bearing. This drive plate is a much better design over the previous IH "ISO-mount" design because it's rigid and don't break or crack due to the engine being mounted on rubber. Due to the deep-dish offset, this drive plate can only be used on MTD-built Cub Cadets.
The bolt-circle pattern for the three clutch disc drive pins and the mounting holes are the same for each drive plate.

Depending on the class your tractor is going to pull in and engine size/modifications, there are many variations in which clutch/driveshaft design and carrier/axles to use. Listed are the weakest to the strongest:

For driveshaft material, there's mild steel, stress proof steel, chrome-moly steel and stainless steel.
- For the clutch drive models, the wide frame driveshaft is exactly 1" longer than the narrow frames, and the IH-built model 582 (serial number 719999 and below) driveshaft has a blunt end and 5/8" steel ball that swivels with engine movement (ISO mount) in the center hole of the input shaft on the transaxle, and MTD-built 582 (serial number 720000 and up) driveshaft is 1/2" longer with a pointed end that swivels with engine movement in the center hole of the input shaft on the transaxle.
As for the types of clutch setups, there's the single OEM Cub Cadet fiber clutch disc with a stiffer pressure spring, a single aluminum clutch disc, also with a stiffer pressure spring, double OEM Cub Cadet clutch discs with a stiffer pressure spring, the metallic clutch disc with a stiffer pressure spring, multiple clutch discs with a stiffer pressure spring, VW clutch/pressure plate/flywheel, etc.
And as for the carrier and axles, there's the OEM Cub Cadet heavy duty one-piece carrier with either coarse or fine spline axles, OEM Cub Cadet's (MTD) two-piece fine spline carrier and axles, Ford Pinto carrier and axles, Chrysler's 7-1/4" carrier and axles, and Ford's 8" carrier and axles.

Using Quality Driveshaft Material Is Important!

Most driveshafts are likely to break at the second roll pin hole, just in front of the clutch release/throw-out bearing. Because that's where the most vibration usually occurs. They also break just behind the pressure spring, in front of the pillow block bearing, due to temporary frame twisting (narrow frames) when pulling. If this happens, it's best to install a split locking collar.

What mainly makes the driveshaft break at 4,000+ rpms is either...

Poor quality material and/or workmanship.
Loosening of engine to oil pan due to use of an oil pan gasket.
Out-of-balance clutch parts and/or out-of-balance rotating engine parts, which could cause harmonic vibrations to travel through driveshaft.
Lack of a pillow block bearing installed midway on the driveshaft.
Lack of solid motor mounts in a "Quiet Line" ISO-mounted engine in a Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" tractor.
Lack of 1/4" thick steel engine-stiffener plates installed under tractor frame to make the engine rigid in a narrow- or wide-frame (solid-mounted engine models) Cub Cadet with front axle is moved forward to end of frame.
Severe flexing of the frame on a narrow frame Cub Cadet when the frame rails are widened and not reinforced to accommodate the larger 9-1/2" flywheel and gear starter.

If quality driveshaft material is used, and if the rotating parts are precision balanced and if a carrier bearing is also installed (above 4,000 rpm. The factory setting of maximum rpm for virtually all small gas engines, including all of Kohler engines is 3,600), the driveshaft could possibly last the life of the tractor. Even when used in high-performance conditions.

Remember, in the direct-drive Cub Cadet, the entire clutch/driveshaft assembly rotates the same speed as the engine. For reliability in a highly modified tractor that turns well above 4,000 rpm, the driveshaft must be made of quality, solid hardened steel that can resist torsional twist. Such as 1144 stress-proof steel, heat-treated 4140 chrome-moly steel or 304 alloy stainless steel.

Mild steel (cold rolled; 45,000 p.s.i. strength; about the same as OEM material) cost the least, and can be safely used in a basic stock tractor with an engine that's limited to 4,000 rpm or for non-pulling applications. It's obviously easy to bore holes through.
Stress-proof steel is heat-treated, which makes it very strong (95,000 p.s.i. strength, which is about twice stronger than OEM driveshafts). It'll flex with slightly out-of-balance rotating parts at high rpm then return to its original straightness when the speed is reduced. It's easy to bore holes through.
Heat-treated chrome-moly steel is another quality material to use. It comes in various hardnesses; from 60,000 to 100,000 p.s.i. strength. It's somewhat easy to bore holes through.
304 alloy stainless steel is much more rigid than any of the above È metals (130,000 p.s.i. strength) and works excellent for use as driveshaft material. It requires a little more effort to bore holes through.

IH Cub Cadet`s "Spiral" Roll-Pin Use quality coiled/spiral pins for driveshafts to prevent the possibility of pin breakage. Spiral pins are much stronger than the spring-type or C-shaped roll pins. And all Cub Cadet driveshafts require the spiral roll-pins. Also, use a quality-made 1/4" roll-pin punch tool to remove the roll-pins. And whenever a roll-pin is removed, one end will probably get "mushroomed" or flared out. Making reinstallation almost impossible. So before reinstalling reusable roll-pins, bevel one end (grind to a dull point) to make the installation easier.

Removing Spiral Pins -

Personally, I use 2 lb. hammer and a quality-made 1/4" roll pin punch to drive the pins out of the driveshaft and rigid tubular rear coupler. I've had some stubborn pins before, but they've always drove out with determination, and no damage to anything (except to the pin itself). Spiral pins can't be drilled out either because they're just as hard as a quality drill bit. And I've heard of people heating up the pin with a torch. This will cause the out-ward expansion of the pin to collapse then it can be driven out easier.

How to Reinforce the Clutch Release Lever Brace on a Wide and Spread Frame Cub Cadet When Using the Yellow Spring -

Install a piece of 1/8" x 1" x (you'll need to measure the length if the transaxle have been moved rearward) flat steel from the center of the clutch release lever brace back to one of the upper bolts on the front of the transaxle. Use grade 8 bolts so it can be removed later in case of repairs.

When to use a Split Locking Collar on the Driveshaft -

5/8" i.d. Split Locking Collar The only reason a locking collar is needed behind the pressure spring is for competitive pulling and when the engine turns at very high rpm. When a pillow block bearing is used to stabilize the driveshaft (prevent wobble) at very high rpm, the collar prevents the driveshaft from breaking [when a hole is drilled for the 3rd roll pin] and when or if the driveshaft flex under pulling strain. If a stock engine will never run above 4,000 rpm, then a locking collar shouldn't be needed on the driveshaft.

Note: when using a stainless steel driveshaft, the locking collar may slip rearward when the clutch pedal is fully depressed. Because stainless steel is very hard material and it has a "slick" surface. Sometimes using two collars will slip also. So to prevent the collar(s) from slipping, install flat washers behind the collar and in front of the pillow block bearing so the pressure will against the bearing and the bearing will hold the collar in position. Or, place a bead of weld on a washer and drive to prevent the collar(s) from slipping. And a locking collar will grip mild or stress proof steel with no problems. Return To Previous Paragraph

Advertisement:

If you need a two-piece clamp-on 5/8" i.d. shaft collar as mentioned and pictured above È, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (home/shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell/text). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) Please call before coming on a weekend so I'll be here waiting for our arrival.Fax: 1-573-449-7347. E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. Send a message with Yahoo Messenger: | Directions to our shop | Yahoo! Maps, 1501 W. Old Plank Rd., Columbia, MO | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. Go here for more quality parts and services: Clutch Parts, Rebuilds & Machine Shop Services | NOTE: To place an order, please call or send an email with a list and description of the parts or services you need. Because as of right now, we're not set up to accept orders through our web sites online.
Each 5/8" i.d. collar has two Allen head screws that holds the clamp together and provide a very tight uniform 360° grip around the driveshaft. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling. NOTE: Position the split locking collar at 9-1/4" from front of driveshaft. This will compress the spring 4-1/2" in length once installed (with the clutch/brake pedal not depressed). And with a stainless steel driveshaft, it's best to use two locking collars because just one might slip on the "slick" and hardened surface of stainless steel.

IMPORTANT! Do this only if the front axle has been moved forward -

Engine Mounting/Frame Steel Reinforcement Plates On the narrow frame Cub Cadets, if the front axle has been moved forward, reinforce the frame rails where the engine mounting holes are to reduce normal high-rpm engine vibration travel that could lead to both frame and driveshaft breakage. To do so, stiffen the frame rails where the engine mounting bolt holes are by welding two 1/4" thick steel plates under the frame. Longer engine mounting bolts must be used, too. The reason for this is because when the front axle center support is moved, the remaining frame material isn't thick enough to hold up to the engine vibration.

For the spread frame models with the ISO (rubber) motor mounts, replace the rubber mounts with a set of our solid steel motor mounts or remove the brackets and fabricate a minimum 1/4" thick plate steel, set it at the right height and weld it to the frame. But the engine mounting holes and oil drain plug hole must be properly located (centered) and drilled in the plate first. Return To Previous Page

Cub Cadet Engine Mounting Brackets and Plates:

How to remove the driveshaft/clutch assembly from a Cub Cadet:

Remove the engine. The 3-pin clutch drive plate remains on the engine and it slides out of the driveshaft and clutch disc when the engine is removed.
Unfasten the clutch release lever from the frame and the adjusting rod.
There's a spiral pin in the tubular or flex arm driveshaft coupler that fastens onto the input shaft in the transaxle. Remove it by using a 1/4" roll pin punch and a medium sized hammer.
NOTE: This particular spiral pin is kind of hard to access from underneath the tractor, especially if it's narrow frame model. So the way I do it is I drill a 1" diameter hole on top of the frame in direct alignment with the pin, which makes it a lot easier to access. After I remove the pin and rebuild the clutch assembly, upon reinstallation, I use a socket in this hole to fasten a hardened steel 1/4" diameter [grade 8 or an Allen head] bolt in the coupler. And for cosmetic reasons, I cover up the hole with a chrome-plated metal hole plug.
Sometimes the pounding will bend the input shaft when driving out the spiral pin. If this happens, the input shaft will need to be straightened (and hope it doesn't break later because the metal has been weakened) or a good used one will need to be installed. This is why I suggest to everyone that a hardened steel 1/4" bolt should be used in the coupler because if they ever need to remove the driveshaft again, removing a bolt would be a lot easier than driving out a stubborn spiral pin, plus it'll be easier on the input shaft.
The driveshaft assembly then slides out of the tractor.

How to Disassemble the Clutch Components from the Driveshaft -

To disassemble the clutch components from the driveshaft, first place the front pressure plate hub on slightly open jaws of a bench vise, and use a quality-made 1/4" roll pin punch and a medium size hammer to drive out the spiral pin. Then the pressure plates, clutch disc throw-out bearing and pressure spring should all slide off the driveshaft.

Fasten the Coupling Arms Together To Make a Rigid, Non-Flexible Driveshaft Coupler -

Flex Coupler Arms Fastened Together With solid motor mounts installed in a Cub Cadet that originally came with an ISO-mounted engine, the driveshaft will not be able to "move" with the engine and there'll be less chance of clutch parts prematurely wearing or breaking. The rubber flex coupler disc(s) at the end of the driveshaft will be useless too, and could deteriorate over time. So instead of replacing the OEM coupling arms with a machined rigid tubular driveshaft coupler, make the coupling arms rigid by removing the rubber disc(s) and install a couple of 3/8" thickness spacers for a single disc, and a couple of 3/4" thickness spacers for double discs, and then fasten the arms together with a couple of 3/8" diameter hardened steel bolts. (Large nuts are used as spacers in the picture to the right.) By the way - one rubber flex disc is 3/8" thick. This setup is just as strong as using a rigid tubular driveshaft coupler, and it cost a lot less.

IMPORTANT! If the outer parts of the two arms don't come together or meet when the bolts are tightened (be careful not to tighten the bolts too tight if the arms don't meet, they could break), a couple of thin flat washers may need to be added as shims next to the spacers. And before fastening the arms together with the spacers, first slide the arms on the driveshaft so they'll be in perfect alignment with each other, and tighten the bolts. See the picture to the right. Also, if you want, leave out the 5/8" diameter [swivel/spacer] steel ball. It'll serve no purpose when using solid motor mounts and when making the coupling arms rigid.

FYI - Many pullers convert the hydrostatic drive Cub Cadet models 109, 129, 149 and 169 (wide frames, solid mounted engine) and models 1250, 1450 and 1650 (wide frames, ISO-mounted engine) into a clutch-drive tractor. All that's needed are the clutch assembly with the hanger bracket for the release lever and a complete transaxle out of a model 86, 108, 128 (wide frames, solid mounted engine) or models 800, 1000 or 1200 (wide frames, ISO-mounted engine) gear drive Cub Cadet. A set of my solid motor mounts will be needed also if the tractor originally has rubber motor mounts. The braking mechanism out of a wide frame Cub Cadet will also be needed.

IMPORTANT! Do not fasten the two brackets directly together on the IH Cub Cadet "Original" because the driveshaft needs to move up or down to tighten the drive belt to the engine. Leave the flexible rubber disc in place, even for pulling. Or install a 5/8" i.d. universal joint instead.

A rigid tubular rear driveshaft coupler with a worn center can be repaired by boring out the center and installing a press-fit steel sleeve. Then ream the sleeve to .626" for a slip-fit on the driveshaft. Then the holes for the spiral pins can be drilled. The boring and reaming process should be performed on a milling machine with a self-centering 3-jaw super spacer or in a metal lathe with a self-centering 3-jaw chuck.

Installing a spiral pin in the rear of the driveshaft to connect the coupler to the input shaft on the transaxle of a Cub Cadet can be very difficult. To make it much easier, simply use a 1/4" grade 8 bolt instead. For strength, the shank (unthreaded part) of the bolt needs to have full contact with the coupler and driveshaft. And as long as the driveshaft is in correct alignment with the centerline of the crankshaft and transaxle input shaft, with the spiral pins holes in-line with each other, and not offset 90°, at around 4,000 rpm, this should not cause the driveshaft to "shake around" or vibrate whatsoever. At high rpms or at wide open throttle, a pillow block bearing with a cross member brace should be used midway on the driveshaft.

For pulling applications, rubber motor mounts (and the flexible coupler at the rear of the driveshaft) absorbs valuable horsepower, which must be transferred to the rear tires for full power to the track. The rubber motor mounts will also cause the engine to vibrate excessively at high rpm. Plus, with normal use of the tractor, rubber motor mounts could cause the flexible 3-pin drive plate and/or the driveshaft to eventually break. If a tractor that has rubber motor mounts and a flexible coupler is going to be used for pulling competition, definitely install some metal motor mounts.

Advertisement:

If you need a set of solid steel motor mounts, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (home/shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell/text). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) Please call before coming on a weekend so I'll be here waiting for our arrival.Fax: 1-573-449-7347. E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. Send a message with Yahoo Messenger: | Directions to our shop | Yahoo! Maps, 1501 W. Old Plank Rd., Columbia, MO | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. Go here for more quality parts and services: Clutch Parts, Rebuilds & Machine Shop Services | NOTE: To place an order, please call or send an email with a list and description of the parts or services you need. Because as of right now, we're not set up to accept orders through our web sites online.

Coming Soon! A-1 Miller's own CNC-machined steel solid motor mounts. Projected price: $20.00/set of 4 for just the mounts; and $30.00 per kit (includes 4 mounts w/flat washers, grade 8 bolts, nuts and split lock washers). As soon as I have these parts available, they'll be posted here.
Solid Motor Mounts for Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" Tractors - Replace Deteriorated "ISO" Rubber Motor Mounts with a Set of Machined Solid Steel Motor Mounts! An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because I was the one who originally thought of and advertised this product.
Details include:

An alternative to the deteriorated OEM "ISO" rubber engine mounts. Fits Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" models 680, 800, 1000, 1200, 1210, 1250, 1282, 1450 and 1650. If your tractor has two angled brackets that attach to the engine, with rubber mounts between the brackets and the frame, then these are what you need.
A MUST for competitive pulling or everyday use because they stabilize the engine to prevent severe engine vibration at high rpm, and they save wear on the clutch/driveshaft components, especially the flexible 3-pin clutch drive plate.
For pulling competition, heavy towing, garden plowing, pushing snow, yard work or just lawn mowing.
Direct replacement - replaces the entire rubber mounts. They install between the tractor frame and engine mounting brackets. A flat washer fastens on top of the brackets. Machined so they set the engine height at the correct alignment with the driveshaft.
I also make solid motor mounts for Wheel Horse, and other makes and models of garden tractors.
By the way - rubber motor mounts are intended for operator comfort from engine vibration only. The ISO-mount tractors with solid motor mounts installed would feel and operate just like the older models with a solid mounted engine. And some people use my solid motor mounts just to mow grass and tell me that the mounts don't cause their tractor to vibrate much at all. But others have used them and said the vibration was unbearable. So all I can say is try them. If you don't like them, return them for a full refund less shipping and handling. Or to minimize the vibration, either have the rotating engine parts precision spin-balanced, or install a set of rubber mounts.
Can be easily removed if rubber mounts are used instead. If you'd prefer to use new rubber motor mounts, you can install an OEM Cub Cadet ISO mount kit, part # 759-3952, or visit your nearest NAPA auto parts store. They have a variety of rubber mounts. Some shock absorber mounts are the same thing.
Weighs about 4 ounces each.

Solid mounts only (no bolts or washers). $30.00 per set of four, plus shipping & handling.
Solid mounts with the mounting hardware (grade 8 bolts/locknuts, thick flat washers). $40.00 per set of four plus shipping & handling.

Solid Motor Mounts for Cub Cadet model 1050 ONLY - Replace Deteriorated Nylon Motor Mounts with a Set of Machined Solid Steel Motor Mounts! An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise and offer this product for sale.
Details include:

A MUST for competition pulling or everyday use because they stabilize the engine to prevent severe engine vibration at high rpm, and they save wear on the clutch/driveshaft components.
For pulling competition, heavy towing, garden plowing, pushing snow, yard work or just lawn mowing.
Direct replacement - Replaces bottom OEM nylon mounts only. Machined so they set the engine height at the correct alignment with the driveshaft. No modifications to engine mounting bracket or tractor frame. Remove nylon mounts, and fasten engine mounting bracket with a flat washer and factory bolt/nut or supplied washer and bolt/nut in kit with sandwiched solid mount to tractor frame. (As shown in drawing to the right.)
By the way - OEM nylon motor mounts are intended for operator comfort from engine vibration only. The ISO-mount tractors with solid motor mounts installed would feel and operate just like the older models with a solid mounted engine. And some people use my solid motor mounts just to mow grass and tell me that the mounts don't cause their tractor to vibrate much at all. But others have used them and said the vibration was unbearable. So all I can say is try them. If you don't like them, return them for a full refund less shipping and handling. Or to minimize the vibration, either have the rotating engine parts precision spin-balanced, or install a set of rubber mounts.
Can be easily removed if OEM nylon mounts are preferred instead.
Weighs about 2 ounces each.

Solid mounts only (no bolts or washers). $30.00 per set of four, plus shipping & handling.
Solid mounts with mounting hardware (grade 8 bolts/nuts/lock washers/thick flat washers). $40.00 per set of four plus shipping & handling.

Solid Motor Mounts for Wheel Horse - Replace Deteriorated ISO-Mounts with a Set of Machined Solid Steel Motor Mounts! An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise and offer this product for sale.
Details include:

An alternative to the deteriorated OEM rubber mounts. Fits Wheel Horse models C-81, C-85, C-105, C-121, C-125, C-145, C-165, C-175 and 512-D.
A MUST for competitive pulling because they stabilize the engine to prevent severe engine vibration at high rpm.
For pulling competition, heavy towing, garden plowing, pushing snow, yard work or just lawn mowing.
Direct replacement - replaces the entire rubber mounts. Machined so they set the engine the same height as the OEM rubber mounts. Fastens to engine cradle with included 1/4" grade 8 bolts and locknuts. Reuse OEM center bolt.
Rubber motor mounts are intended for operator comfort from engine vibration only. The ISO mount tractors with solid motor mounts installed would feel and operate just like the older models with a solid mounted engine. And some people use my solid motor mounts just to mow grass and tell me that the mounts don't cause their tractor to vibrate much at all. But others have used them and said the vibration was unbearable. So all we can say is try them. If you don't like them, return them for a full refund, less cost of shipping and handling.
Can be easily removed if rubber ISO mounts are desired instead. If you'd prefer to use rubber motor mounts, the Wheel Horse part number is 108309.

Solid mounts only (no bolts or washers). $30.00 per set of four, plus shipping & handling.
Solid mounts with mounting hardware (grade 8 bolts/nuts/lock washers/thick flat washers). $40.00 per set of four plus shipping & handling.

If the clutch adjustment/release rod in your Cub Cadet is badly worn or if you bought a tractor without one, then here's the dimensions to make your own:

For the narrow frame Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124 and 126: Start with a (preferably hardened) 3/8" diameter steel rod that's 10-1/2" in total length. The 3/8-24 NF threads are 4-7/8" in length. Have the threads precision made in a metal lathe with thread cutting capabilities. Install a jam nut on the threads for the compression spring. (Install the compression spring over the threaded end of the adjusting rod. The compression spring holds the release lever forward to take pressure off the throw-out bearing.) Do not drill a hole for a cotter pin or roll pin! This will weaken the rod, which could cause it to break when used with a stout pressure spring. Anyway, the hole for the pedal return spring is 5/32" in diameter. The long part is 9-3/8" to the inside of the bend. The short part is 7/8" to the inside of the bend. NOTE: Heat the rod with an oxy-acetylene torch in a bench vice and use a big hammer to make a sharp 90º bend. Because bending cold steel may cause the metal to crack at the bend.

For the wide frame Cub Cadet models 86, 108, 128, 800, 1000 and 1200 for tractors with caliper (axle) brakes (except IH and MTD models 580, 582, 1604 and 1606, which use a different rod): Start with a (preferably hardened) 3/8" diameter steel rod that's 13-1/2" in total length. The 3/8-24 NF threads are 3-1/2" in length. Have the threads precision made in a metal lathe with thread cutting capabilities. Install a jam nut on the threads for the compression spring. (Install the compression spring over the threaded end of the adjusting rod. The compression spring holds the release lever forward to take pressure off the throw-out bearing.) Do not drill a hole for a cotter pin or roll pin! This will weaken the rod, which could cause it to break when used with a stout pressure spring. Anyway, the holes for the outer and inner cotter pin is 5/32" in diameter. The inner cotter pin hole is located 1/2" from the first hole. The long part is 11-5/16" to the inside of the bend. The short part is 1-13/16" to the inside of the bend. NOTE: Heat the rod with an oxy-acetylene torch in a bench vice and use a big hammer to make a sharp 90º bend. Because bending cold steel may cause the metal to crack at the bend.

Coming Soon! A-1 Miller's own CNC-machined clutch adjustment/release rods. Projected price: $30.00 each, plus shipping & handling. As soon as I have these parts available, they'll be posted here. (I need the dimensions of the clutch adjustment/release rod for Cub Cadet models 580, 582, 1604 and 1606, and the dimensions of the clutch adjustment/release rod for models 800, 1000 and 1200 tractors with an internal (wet) brake. If someone would be willing to share accurate information with me, I will give them full credit in this web site.)

The clutch adjustment/release rod for the narrow frame Cub Cadets models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124 and 126 is part # IH-393124-R1.
The clutch adjustment/release rod for the wide frame Cub Cadet models 86, 108 and 128 is part # IH-544133-R3.
The clutch adjustment/release rod for the wide frame Cub Cadet models 800, 1000 and 1200 is part # IH-544133-R3 for tractors with caliper (axle) brakes; and IH-117338-C2 for tractors with an internal (wet) brake.
The clutch adjustment/release rod for the spread frame Cub Cadet models 580, 582, 1604 and 1606 is no longer available, but the part # is 747-3021A.
Clutch adjustment/release rods are available from your local Cub Cadet dealer.

The OEM aluminum clutch drive hub have been known to hold up well even in a highly modified garden pulling tractor as long as the original 1/4" thick x no less than 1-1/4" o.d. flat washer is installed under the flywheel nut or bolt, and using hardened 1/4" bolts with split lock washers to fasten the drive plate to the hub. The main causes of breakage is running out-of-balance clutch parts and/or mostly not installing the large flat washer as described above È under the nut or bolt. Otherwise, they're pretty tough.

If an OEM 3-pin clutch drive plate is bent next to the drive studs (MTD) or spiral pin collars (IH), to fix this:

Straighten the pins/collars with a hammer the best you can. Place a clutch disc with unworn holes over the pins to insure they're properly straightened.
Securely weld each collar to the plate. Try to apply an even amount of weld around each collar for proper balance and to reduce vibration. It's also a good idea to weld the collars on a drive plate that's not bent, to insure it will not get bent in the future.
True all rotating clutch parts (drive plate and pressure plates) in a metal lathe that has a 3-jaw self-centering scroll chuck to reduce vibration, wear on the pilot bushing and possible driveshaft breakage at high rpms.

If the bronze pilot bushing in a drive plate is excessively worn, this means that the pressure plates are badly out of balance and/or there was no lubricating grease applied to the bushing or on the driveshaft before installation of the clutch assembly in the tractor. In either case, resurface the pressure plates until they're perfectly flat and true-up the edge to prevent wobble in a metal lathe. IMPORTANT: To insure true flatness when resurfacing pressure plates, use a lathe that's in good condition with very little wear on the ways!

Advertisement:

If you need any of the parts and/or services listed below Ê, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (home/shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell/text). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) Please call before coming on a weekend so I'll be here waiting for our arrival.Fax: 1-573-449-7347. E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. Send a message with Yahoo Messenger: | Directions to our shop | Yahoo! Maps, 1501 W. Old Plank Rd., Columbia, MO | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. Go here for more quality parts and services: Clutch Parts, Rebuilds & Machine Shop Services | NOTE: To place an order, please call or send an email with a list and description of the parts or services you need. Because as of right now, we're not set up to accept orders through our web sites online.

Refurbished OEM Cub Cadet 3-pin Drive Plate -
Comes with a new bronze pilot bushing and spiral pins (if needed). These and the drive plates I make are for the narrow frame and solid-mounted engine wide frame Cub Cadets. (Models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 108, 122, 124, 126 and 128.) These models have the solid mounted engine, no rubber motor mounts. If you want to use either of these plates in a "Quiet Line" ISO-mount tractor (models 800, 1000 and 1200), then a set of my solid motor mounts must also be installed. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-384652-R12.

Used. $60.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.) (Cub Cadet dealer: $130.00± retail each!)

NOTE: Before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply quality automotive lubricating grease to inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if it's dry, chances are, the driveshaft won't release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing and driveshaft. And I can't make a flexible 3-pin clutch driver. They're an OEM Cub Cadet dealer item only.

Weld the collars on your OEM IH Cub Cadet drive plate to prevent plate from bending under strain. An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this. $15.00 labor, plus return shipping.
NOTE: Before installing the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply quality automotive lubricating grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if it's dry, chances are, the driveshaft won't release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing and driveshaft.

Repair your OEM Cub Cadet 3-pin clutch drive plate when original drive pin collar(s) are broken off. $30.00 for parts & labor, plus return shipping & handling.
NOTE: Before installing the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply quality automotive lubricating grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if it's dry, chances are, the driveshaft won't release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing and driveshaft.

Repair pilot bushing hole in drive plate that's worn too big for OEM pilot bushing. $25.00 parts and labor, plus return shipping. An innovative concept by Brian Miller
OEM-Thickness 5/8" i.d. x 7/8" o.d. x 3/4" length OEM-quality bronze pilot bushing to replace the OEM bushing for all pre-1981 gear drive IH Cub Cadets, except "Quiet Line" models. This is also the replacement bushing for inside the IH Cub Cadet "Original" clutch disc/pulley. Our part # 153-207.

$3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Thin-Wall 5/8" i.d. x 3/4" o.d. x 3/4" length bronze pilot bushing for installing inside a worn OEM bronze pilot bushing in all pre-1981 gear drive IH Cub Cadets, except "Quiet Line" models. Can also be used inside the OEM bushing in the IH Cub Cadet "Original" clutch disc/pulley. NOTE: The worn OEM bushing must be center-bored to .750" in a metal lathe so this bushing will have a centered and press fit.

$3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

New OEM-quality bronze pilot bushing for all pre-1981 gear drive IH Cub Cadets, except "Quiet Line" models. Also replacement bushing for inside the IH Cub Cadet "Original" clutch disc/pulley. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
NOTE: Before installing the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply quality automotive lubricating grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if it's dry, chances are, the driveshaft won't release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing and driveshaft.

Repair work - Convert your OEM 3-pin clutch drive plate into a 6-pin, install 3 grade 8 studs, lock washers, and true-up plate in metal lathe. An innovative concept by Brian Miller

$30.00 for parts and labor, plus return shipping & handling.

Clutch Drive Studs w/nuts for MTD-built Cub Cadet 3-pin clutch drive plate or convert an IH-built OEM Cub Cadet 3-pin clutch drive plate into a 6 pin/stud driver for competition pulling. Made of hardened grade 8 steel.

3/8" diameter x 1-1/2" long (measured under jam nut) for single clutch disc (for general yard & garden work or competition pulling). Replaces MTD/Cub Cadet part # 911-3043. Our price: $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (MTD/Cub Cadet dealer: $36.00± retail each!)
3/8" diameter x 1-7/8" long (measured under jam nut) for double clutch disc setup (for competition pulling). $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
When ordering, please specify the number of studs and the length you need.

NOTE: Before installing the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply quality automotive lubricating grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if it's dry, chances are, the driveshaft won't release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing and driveshaft.

Heavy Duty, All Steel Clutch Drive Plates!
Available with 3 or 6 drive studs. Plate made of 3/16" thickness steel. Heavy duty, 1/3 thicker and 80% stronger than OEM drive plates; recommended for pulling tractors running unlimited rpm using a single or a double-disc clutch setup. These precision made, high quality drive plates come with a new bronze pilot bushing and grade 8 drive studs. Weighs under 2 lbs.

3-pin. $65.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
6-pin. $75.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
When placing order, please specify if you need 3 or 6 studs installed. And when using the 6-pin drive plate, three additional holes must be drilled in the clutch disc(s) to match the location of the six drive studs.

NOTE: Before installing the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply quality automotive lubricating grease inside the pilot bushing and on the front of the driveshaft. Because if it's dry, the driveshaft won't release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing and driveshaft. And when using the 6-pin drive plate, three additional holes must be drilled in the clutch disc(s) to match the location of the six drive studs.

Heavy Duty, All Steel PTO-Driven Clutch Drive Plate for when the engine is reversed in a Cub Cadet! An innovative concept by Brian Miller
Fabricated 3- or 6-pin, 3/16" plate thickness. Heavy duty, 1/3 thicker and 80% stronger than OEM; recommended for pulling tractors running unlimited rpm using a single or a double-disc clutch setup. When ordering, please specify the diameter for the PTO shaft on the engine. Weighs about 3 lbs.

$80.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

NOTE: Three additional holes must be drilled in the clutch discs to match the location of the six drive studs.
These precision made, high quality drive plates come with a new bronze pilot bushing (you install) and grade 8 steel drive studs. And a 3/4" hole MUST be drilled into end of crankshaft for pilot bushing. And before installing the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply quality automotive lubricating grease inside the pilot bushing and on the front of the driveshaft. Because if it's dry, the driveshaft won't release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing and driveshaft. And when using the 6-pin drive plate, three additional holes must be drilled in the clutch disc(s) to match the location of the six drive studs.

Flat washer for retaining flywheel or aluminum clutch hub to flywheel Flywheel Retaining Washers. A must to secure flywheel and prevent Cub Cadet or billet aluminum clutch hub adapter breakage! Each made of steel and measures approximately 1/4" thick x 1-1/4" o.d.

Washer w/3/8" hole. Kohler part # 12 468 03-S.

A-1 Miller part. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
OEM Kohler part. $3.40 each, plus shipping & handling.

Washer w/5/8" hole. Replaces Kohler part # X-25-104. (Discontinued from Kohler.) $3.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
Washer w/3/4" hole. Replaces Kohler part # X-25-71. (Discontinued from Kohler.) $3.50 each, plus shipping & handling.

Spacer/Bushing and Step Washer for centering Cub Cadet aluminum clutch adapter hub with a 5/8" hole with the Kohler Magnum crankshaft using a 3/8" bolt. A must to prevent out-of-balance clutch parts, severe vibration, wear and damage! NOTE: I can also custom machine other adapter washers to fit your particular application. All I need are the exact dimensions.

Spacer/Bushing. Use with 3/8" washer above È. Dimensions: 3/8" i.d. x 5/8" o.d. x 3/8" height. OEM Kohler part # 47 158 05-S. $1.65 each, plus shipping & handling.
Step Washer. Dimensions: 3/8" i.d. x 5/8" o.d. x 1-1/4" o.d. x 1/2" overall height. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Recoil Starter Cups -
Recoil Starter Cup (w/internal notches and 5/8" hole) with small screen for Kohler engine models K141, K161 and K181. OEM Kohler part # 41 071 07-S.

New. $27.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Recoil Starter Cup (w/internal notches and 5/8" hole) with large screen for Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321 and K341. OEM Kohler part # 41 071 08-S.

New. $58.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

OEM Kohler/Cub Cadet Aluminum Flywheel to Clutch/Driveshaft Hub Adapters -
Cub Cadet hub adapters with 5/8" hole (K-series), w/o pulley, no screen, w/dowel pin. OEM Kohler part # 41 071 03-S.

Used and in excellent condition. $30.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
New. $85.55 each, plus shipping & handling.

Cub Cadet hub adapter kit with 5/8" hole for Kohler engine models K241 and K301, w/pulley, w/large screen, w/dowel pin. OEM Kohler part # 41 071 04-S, Cub Cadet part # 759-3287.

New. $119.20 each, plus shipping & handling.

Cub Cadet hub adapter kit with 5/8" hole for Kohler engine models K241 and K301, w/o pulley, w/large screen, w/dowel pin. OEM Kohler part # 41 071 05-S ($111.00) or OEM Cub Cadet part # 759-3287.

New. $77.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Cub Cadet hub adapters with 3/8" hole (Magnum), w/o pulley, no screen, w/dowel pin. OEM Kohler part # 52 755 61-S.

Used and in excellent condition. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
New. $98.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

1/4" diameter x 3/4" long hardened steel dowel pin for OEM and billet aluminum clutch hub adapters. Secures aluminum hub to flywheel to prevent slippage. Replaces Cub Cadet part # KH-X-56-7 and Kohler part # X-56-7. $1.50 each, plus shipping & handling.

Resurfacing and Trueing Up Worn and Warped Pressure Plates -

For any clutch disc to adhere or hold well and to prevent slippage, both pressure plates must be resurfaced until they're perfectly flat in a metal lathe. The outer edge should be trued-up too, to prevent wobble, which can cause the pilot bushing to wear excessively. For a used clutch assembly, chances are, the fiber clutch disc is worn to match the wear on the pressure plates. If the clutch disc is worn, but still reusable, it can be resurfaced until perfectly flat in the lathe as well. For best clutch adhesion and to lessen the chance of slippage, the clutch-to-pressure plates surface contact areas must be flat against flat for 100% contact.

Warped pressure plates will allow a single or even double clutches to slip. They warp due to overheating and normal wear. When they get warped, they don't have full contact with the entire surface of the clutch disc. Whenever a new clutch disc is installed, rather if it's an OEM one or made of aluminum, the pressure plates should always be resurfaced until perfectly flat and trued up in a metal lathe. New OEM Cub Cadet pressure plates are stamped in a press and not machined in a lathe. This means they're not as flat or turn as true as ones that's been machined in a lathe. Therefore, if new or used pressure plates are going to be used for pulling or heavy yard work, have the outer edge trued up and have the clutch contact area resurfaced until perfectly flat in a metal lathe.

The OEM Cub Cadet pressure plates are 3/16" (.188") thick. On the average, approximately .005" of metal is removed from the face of each pressure plate after it has been resurfaced until perfectly flat. Removing this much metal won't weaken the plates whatsoever, even when used with a very stout pressure spring.

With both pressure plates properly resurfaced until perfectly flat, the single OEM fiber clutch, with 4-1/2" diameter pressure plates, has a total disc to plate contact area of 17.7 square inches. When doubled (as in double clutches including the 4-1/2" diameter center drive plate), it has a total contact area of 36 square inches. This is why double clutches hold so well in pulling. It's the same as using a bigger clutch that has more contact area. And double-clutches will have even more contact area with 4-5/8" diameter pressure plates!

The aluminum disc on the other hand (as described in this web site), has a total contact area of 29.8 square inches. You may look at this disc and ask, "where's the friction material?" Well, the aluminum itself is the friction material. A single aluminum disc will adhere to (grip) steel a lot better than a single OEM Cub Cadet fiber clutch disc. Both of these type of clutches (the single aluminum and double-OEM fiber clutch disc), when used with a cultivator spring kit, has been proven to hold very well in pulling. If everything is machined, precision balanced, installed and adjusted correctly, the aluminum or double-disc clutch system including the driveshaft could possibly last the life of the tractor. Even when used in high-performance conditions.

IMPORTANT: To insure true flatness when resurfacing pressure plates, use a lathe that's in good condition with very little wear on the ways!

Save the Hubs!

If the discs in your pressure plates are heavily rusted, worn too thin or warped badly and resurfacing them in a lathe didn't do any good, instead of making two entirely new pressure plates, what could be done is remove the center hub from each disc with a hydraulic press and then reuse the hubs to make two new pressure plates. This would save from having to fabricate a couple of new hubs.

Use ALUMINUM as Clutch Disc Material!

NOTE: If an aluminum clutch disc is used in a high rpm tractor, I found they won't work as well because after a while the aluminum will get galled, and the clutch could become "grabby." The aluminum disc works best in a stock tractor with the engine running at a maximum of 4,000 rpm. Therefore, a double fiber clutch disc set up with a cultivator pressure spring may to be installed.

If a single OEM fiber clutch disc slips in a stock pulling tractor, then what is required to prevent clutch slippage is to install a single piece of machined aluminum to serve as a clutch disc. With resurfaced pressure plates and a cultivator pressure spring, aluminum should grip and hold up well when used in a stock garden pulling tractor. By the way, the OEM sandwiched steel fiber clutch disc and an aluminum clutch disc weighs almost the same; about 10.6 ounces each.

The aluminum clutch disc works best for low rpm stock engines. I use the aluminum clutch disc in our stock pulling tractors and the double OEM-fiber clutches in our higher horsepower tractors. I haven't had any problems with either clutches for several years.

If a single, lightweight aluminum clutch disc is used, there's no need to install three extra studs in the 3-pin drive plate (see below Ê). But definitely have both pressure plates resurfaced until perfectly flat as described above È. Depending on the size of engine and weight of tractor, the aluminum clutch disc requires a tougher driveshaft along with a cultivator spring kit. And it'll be a good idea to install a center support bearing (pillow block bearing) to prevent the driveshaft from wobbling at 4,000 rpm. Also, if the pressure plates are properly resurfaced until perfectly flat and if aluminum is used, the aluminum won't excessively wear or melt onto them.

IMPORTANT! The biggest mistake a puller can make when launching a tractor is letting the clutch out all of a sudden with the engine revved up. So when using aluminum as a clutch disc (or any metallic clutch material), and when the tractor is hooked to the sled, always remember to "slip" the clutch upon take-off. To do this, first rev up the engine (a lot), then slowly ease out on the clutch pedal. Because an aluminum clutch disc may not "slip" at low rpm, and because aluminum adheres to steel very well when under pressure, if the pedal is let out all of a sudden with the engine revved up, and if the tires don't spin, something could break or get damaged in the drivetrain or transaxle. The 5/8" zinc-plated steel split lock washer that's placed between the pressure plates will aide greatly in smooth clutch engagement/release and it lessens the possibility of the clutch from "grabbing" upon take-off.

Advertisement:

If you need any of the parts and/or services listed below Ê, or if you need your clutch assembly rebuilt or need some clutch parts as described in this web site, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (home/shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell/text). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) Please call before coming on a weekend so I'll be here waiting for our arrival.Fax: 1-573-449-7347. E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. Send a message with Yahoo Messenger: | Directions to our shop | Yahoo! Maps, 1501 W. Old Plank Rd., Columbia, MO | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. Go here for more quality parts and services: Clutch Parts, Rebuilds & Machine Shop Services | NOTE: To place an order, please call or send an email with a list and description of the parts or services you need. Because as of right now, we're not set up to accept orders through our web sites online.

High quality aftermarket fiber material clutch disc for Cub Cadet garden tractors. Provides about 70% more grip than stock Cub Cadet fiber clutch disc. Drop in replacement of OEM Cub Cadet clutch disc. Can be used with the 6- or 3-pin drive plate. Replaces Cub Cadet part # 961-3002.

$40.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

IMPORTANT - Both pressure plates MUST be resurfaced until perfectly flat and trued-up (to reduce vibration) in a metal lathe or severe clutch slippage may result!
FYI - About 90% of the fiber material in Cub Cadet clutch discs will chip off were the holes are due to the following reasons:

The fiber material is so hard (for long wear), it's actually brittle and will easily chip off or break when mishandled.
Sometimes when installing the engine in the tractor, the fiber material will chip off when sliding the drive pins or studs into the clutch disc.
The holes in the fiber material will sometimes chip off and/or wear larger under normal use because the three OEM drive pins or studs place pressure against the holes. When the original three holes wear extremely large, a new hole can be precision-drilled between the original holes and the clutch disc can be reused.
Using the OEM Cub Cadet clutch drive plate with three additional drive studs precision-drilled and installed or an aftermarket 6-pin drive plate with a 6-hole clutch disc (three additional holes drilled) will place 50% less pressure and reduce the amount of wear against each hole. The more drive pins or studs the drive plate has, less wear to the holes will result in the clutch disc. The drive plate and clutch disc can have as many as 9 or 12 drive pins and holes.

Teasing Spring for all clutch-drive Cub Cadets. OEM Cub Cadet part # 932-3017.

$5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
[Protective] Cup/Spacer for Teasing Spring in Cub Cadet clutch drive wide and spread frame models 86, 108, 128, 800, 1000, 1200 and 1535. OEM Cub Cadet part # 911-3040.

$15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Coming Soon! A-1 Miller's own CNC-machined 6-hole aluminum clutch discs. Projected price: $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. As soon as I have this part available, it'll be posted here.
New machined aluminum clutch disc with (6) 13/32" drive holes for a 3- or 6-pin drive plate. This is a direct replacement for Cub Cadet's OEM fiber clutch disc. Made of the highest quality 6061 alloy; medium-grade hardness aluminum available. The edge of the disc is turned true in my metal lathe, then the 6 holes are precision-drilled using my milling machine in an 8" super spacer with a 6-notch masking plate. Unlike the competition that offer the same copycat part, the drive holes in my aluminum discs are drilled to 13/32" to reduce clutch rattle and less chance of breakage to the drive pins.
IMPORTANT - Both pressure plates MUST be resurfaced until perfectly flat and trued-up (to reduce vibration) in a metal lathe or severe clutch slippage may result!

Aluminum clutch disc only. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

5/8" i.d. Zinc-Plated Steel Split Lock Washer and Steel Spacer. Replaces teasing spring on all Cub Cadet narrow frame clutch drive models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124 and 126. NOTE: Lock washer not for use with OEM Cub Cadet clutch pressure spring. Use with cultivator spring kit.

$5.00 per set, plus shipping & handling.

CUB CADET 124 WORK PART 2 - YouTube

Clutch Disc Anti-Rattle Spring. Reduces noisy clutch rattle. Three required for each drive pin. OEM Cub Cadet part # 932-3018.

$3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Center drive plate (floater/disc) for double OEM fiber clutch disc setup. Made of mild steel. Trued-up in my metal lathe. Dimensions: .133" thickness x .626" center hole x approximately 4-1/2" diameter.

$20.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Your Cub Cadet drive clutch pressure plates professionally resurfaced until perfectly flat and trued up in my metal lathe. FYI - OEM Cub Cadet steel pressure plates are stamped in a large press and not machined in a lathe from the factory, which makes them oblong (egg-shaped) and not perfectly flat. Oblong (out of balance) pressure plates will cause the bronze pilot bushing to wear and the driveshaft to break at high rpms. And pressure plates that's not perfectly flat will cause the clutch to slip. (I've seen some pullers install a 1,100-1,200 lb. spring against badly warped (and out of balance) pressure plates with a severely worn-out clutch disc. Of course, the clutch grips better afterwards, and the puller says: "There, I fixed it!" )

$15.00 labor for two pressure plates, plus return shipping & handling.

Used OEM Cub Cadet drive clutch pressure plates, professionally resurfaced until perfectly flat and trued up in my metal lathe. Replace deep-pitted rusted, severely worn or bent pressure plates.

Front Pressure Plate w/solid hub. OEM Cub Cadet part # 903-0214. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.) (New from Cub Cadet dealer: $71.52 each! Stamped steel; not resurfaced and/or trued-up.)
Rear Pressure Plate w/slotted hub. OEM Cub Cadet part # 903-0213. $30.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.) (New from Cub Cadet dealer: $94.47 each! Stamped steel; not resurfaced and/or trued-up.)

Making the Aluminum Clutch Disc Engage Smoothly -

The OEM Cub Cadet cushion spring (as it is called in the early/narrow frame Cub Cadets) or teasing spring (as it is called in the later models/wide and spread frame Cub Cadets) goes between the rear pressure plate and throw-out bearing. It's purpose is to allow the rear pressure plate to gently press against the clutch disc as the clutch is engaged without having a "jerky" clutch. When using an aluminum clutch disc, the teasing spring can be replaced with a steel spacer or a stack of small outside diameter flat washers (the ones that originally comes on Cub Cadet driveshafts) and an ordinary, zinc-plated steel split lock washer. Install the lock washer between the pressure plates (dead center of the clutch disc) for a smoother clutch engagement. Clutch slippage may result if used with the OEM Cub Cadet pressure spring. Therefore, the aluminum clutch disc should be used with a stiffer-than-stock pressure spring, such as the cultivator spring kit.

For the narrow-frame Cub Cadets, the steel spacer needs to be 3/8" in length. (The teasing spring is compressed to 3/8" when the clutch is fully engaged.) And for Cub Cadet models 86, 108, 128, 800, 1000, 1200 and 1535, the spacer needs to 5/8" long or use the OEM protective cup/spacer (for the teasing) that originally comes on the driveshaft, but leave the teasing spring out. By the way - the small end of the protective cup/spacer goes against the throw-out bearing. If a too long of a spacer or the protective spacer/cup is used in a narrow frame model, the throw-out bearing would set too far back on the driveshaft and when the brake/clutch pedal is depressed, the release lever would hit the steering box and the clutch wouldn't be able to release.

Cushion/Teaser Spring To prevent the teasing spring from possibly breaking and to help the clutch(es) to engage more smoothly, simply don't use the teasing spring. Instead, replace where the teasing spring goes on the driveshaft with a piece of heavy wall round steel tubing that measures 7/8" o.d. x 3/8" (narrow frame) or 5/8" (wide frame) long x 41/64" i.d. Then install an ordinary zinc-plated 5/8" i.d. split lock washer between the pressure plates, dead center of the clutch disc. Use two zinc-plated steel split lock washers (one for each clutch disc) if using double clutches.

The lock washer does two things - it acts like a spring, which forces the pressure plates apart, it provides smooth clutch engagement and it'll help to prevent the possibility of the clutch disc from "grabbing" upon take-off. In addition, the spring-like action of the lock washer will expand the pressure plates when the clutch/brake pedal is fully depressed so they will release from the clutch disc. Doing this will guarantee that the clutch will engage smoothly and release every time. So when reassembling a clutch assembly, don't install the teasing spring. Instead, install the spacer and lock washer as described above È. You'll be glad you did.

Or for a bullet-proof teasing spring setup, and/or if the aluminum clutch disc doesn't engage smoothly, instead of using the 5/8" lock washer between the pressure plates and the teasing spring or a steel spacer, install a flat washer, the 5/8" lock washer, then another flat washer until they all total to about 3/8" or 5/8" in height with the lock washer fully uncompressed.

The correct order of installing Cub Cadet clutch parts on the driveshaft is listed below Ê. But first, be sure to apply a light coat of quality automotive lubricating grease on the driveshaft where the throw-out bearing and slotted pressure plate slides back and forth to assure full clutch disengagement and to lessen wear to driveshaft.

1. Install 3^rdspiral pin then the main pressure spring.
2. Install throw-out bearing (small end facing forward of tractor).
3. Install release lever.
4. Install protective spacer/cup (small end goes against throw-out bearing).
5. Install teasing spring or steel spacer. 6. Compress the pressure spring and install the 2^nd spiral pin.
7. Install pressure plate w/slotted hub.
8. Install zinc-plated steel split lock washer (use only with very stiff pressure spring).
9. Install clutch disc.
10. Install pressure plate w/solid hub, then the 1^stspiral pin.

NOTE: With the clutch fully engaged, sometimes air will get trapped between the pressure plates, which will at times create a vacuum lock and the clutch won't want to release right away. To prevent this from happening, drill an 1/8" hole through one of the pressure plates close to the hub so air can be relieved from within the center of the clutch disc.

To disassemble the clutch components from the driveshaft, this is how I do it:

In a large bench vise, remove the spiral pin in the front pressure plate.
Remove from vise and slide off both pressure plates and clutch disc.
Firmly clamp the front of the driveshaft in the vise, and with a 3-4 lb. hammer, drive the driveshaft forward from the rear to release pressure off the teasing spring.
Drive out the teasing spring.
Carefully remove the driveshaft from the vise because the pressure spring is under a lot of tension.
Now everything can be removed from the driveshaft.

IMPORTANT! For safety, a hydraulic press should be used to compress the large pressure spring on the driveshaft to reassemble the clutch components!

Apply a light coat of quality automotive lubricating grease where the throw-out bearing slides back and forth on the driveshaft.
Install the pressure spring, throw-out bearing (the protruding part of the throw-out bearing, the part that sticks out, faces forward in the tractor), clutch release lever and teasing spring or steel spacer (optional) on the driveshaft, and place the driveshaft in the hydraulic press with the front facing down.
Apply pressure on the rear of the driveshaft until the second spiral pin hole clears the teasing spring, then slide a 1/4" bolt in the hole, then release the pressure on the driveshaft.
Remove the driveshaft from the press and firmly clamp the front of the driveshaft in the vise, and with the 3-4 lb. hammer, drive the driveshaft forward from the rear so the 1/4" bolt can be removed.
Install a 1/4" spiral pin in the second spiral pin hole.
Remove the driveshaft from the vise.
Install the rear pressure plate, 5/8" zinc-plated steel split lock washer (optional), clutch disc and front pressure plate.
Again, firmly clamp the front of the driveshaft in the vise, and with the 3-4 lb. hammer, drive the driveshaft forward from the rear so the first spiral pin hole is aligned with the hole in the front pressure plate.
Install the spiral pin.
The clutch assembly is now completely reassembled.

To test how well the clutch will release out of the tractor, place the clutch assembly in the hydraulic press with each end of the release lever on a couple of blocks, and apply slight downward pressure on the end of the driveshaft. The clutch disc should rotate or "move around" freely without binding. If the disc doesn't rotate or binds, redo your work to find out what went wrong.

How to Fix a "Sticking" Cub Cadet Clutch (when it won't release) -

Before reassembling the clutch, apply a light film of quality automotive lubricating grease on the driveshaft where the rear pressure plate slides back and forth. If this was already done, and it still won't release, an ordinary 5/8" split lock washer (made of zinc plated steel) may need to be installed between the pressure plates to spread (or force) them apart when the clutch pedal is depressed. Also, while the rear pressure plate off the driveshaft, make sure it doesn't bind on the shaft or on the spiral pin. If it does, smooth the driveshaft or widen the spiral pin slot slightly with a file. And it'll be a good idea to drill a small hole near the center of the pressure plates to relieve the air that gets trapped between the pressure plates.

The Much Over-Looked Clutch Release Lever Clevis Pin -

If the straight 3/8" diameter OEM Cub Cadet clevis pin that goes through the clutch hanger bracket and release lever is worn, this part should be replaced with an angled or L-shaped pivot pin. As the engine runs with the clutch fully engaged (foot off the clutch pedal, of course), due to normal engine vibrations and slight out-of-balance rotating clutch parts, the OEM round pin continually spins, causing the pin itself and the holes in the hanger bracket to wear. The holes in the release lever rarely wear because the entire lever is made of hardened, heat-treated steel. By replacing the round pin with an angled pin (with the short end long enough to make contact with the tractor frame or hanger bracket), it can't spin. Therefore, there'll be much less wear on the pin and holes, the throw-out bearing will last longer, there'll be less noise coming from the clutch parts, clutch operation will be smoother, and clutch adjustment will remain the same for a longer time. (I think the engineers at IH Cub Cadet should have originally installed an angled pin in their tractors. But then again, they probably didn't plan on their tractors being in use 40-50 years later.)

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If you need an angled or L-shaped pivot pin for your Cub Cadet, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (home/shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell/text). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) Please call before coming on a weekend so I'll be here waiting for our arrival.Fax: 1-573-449-7347. E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. Send a message with Yahoo Messenger: | Directions to our shop | Yahoo! Maps, 1501 W. Old Plank Rd., Columbia, MO | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. Go here for more quality parts and services: Clutch Parts, Rebuilds & Machine Shop Services | NOTE: To place an order, please call or send an email with a list and description of the parts or services you need. Because as of right now, we're not set up to accept orders through our web sites online.

Angled/L-shaped/90° pivot pin for Cub Cadet clutch release lever/hanger brackets. Prevents holes in release lever and hanger bracket from wearing due to spinning OEM straight clevis pin. Lessens clutch noise, maintains clutch adjustment and allows for smoother clutch operation. Made of 3/8" diameter mild steel. For Cub Cadet models: 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124, 126 (narrow frames), 86, 108, 128, 800, 1000, 1200 (wide frames), 580 (certain models), 582, 1050, 1535, 1604 (certain models), 1606 and 1806 (spread frames). Due to various lengths, please specify model of Cub Cadet when ordering. Replaces Cub Cadet part #'s 911-0755 (narrow frames) and 911-3044 (wide and spread frames). An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise the use of this part.

$20.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Weld up and redrill worn [clevis pin] holes in your clutch hanger brackets.

$15.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling.

New clutch hanger brackets from Cub Cadet: (as of 12/2014)

Narrow frame clutch hanger bracket, part # IH-384656-R2. $24.63 each!
Wide frame clutch hanger bracket, part # IH-547629-R1. $66.08 each!
Spread frame clutch hanger bracket, part # 759-3548. $54.40 each!

How to Save a Used Clutch Release/Throw-Out Bearing - An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this.

Throw-Out / Clutch Release Bearing If a used throw-out bearing is still pretty much "tight," but sounds noisy or "rattles" when you spin it by hand, it could be saved from further wear by pumping it full of quality automotive lubricating grease. The same can be done to a new bearing to insure that it will last a long time. (I've done this many times when I rebuild clutch assemblies and have never had one complaint!) The fresh grease will help keep the balls within the bearing well-lubricated and cool, preventing them from further wear. But if the bearing is badly worn or if you're in doubt about doing this, then perhaps install a new one. (Cub Cadet part # 741-3056)

IMPORTANT! When assembling the clutch components, never install the throw-out bearing on the driveshaft backwards! Install it with the collar (the center part that sticks out) towards the clutch disc.

How To Save A Used Throw-Out Bearing:

Drill a 3/32" hole in the grease/dust seal on the back side of the bearing.
Wash the entire bearing in cleaning solvent until the rollers are free of the drill cuttings and dirt on the inside. It's clean when the sound changes when it's spun by hand and when it spins more freely.
Use compressed air [150± psi] to blow dry the entire bearing, including the inside. But don't spin the bearing with the air! Doing this could further damage the bearing!
Using either a needle grease injector (resembles a hypodermic syringe that attaches to an automotive chassis grease gun) or a chainsaw bar tip grease gun, pump the bearing through the drilled hole until it's full of grease. Rotate the bearing 180º and pump it again. It's full when the grease starts to ooze out of the dust seals.
Wipe the grease from around the hole with a clean rag and apply a dab of Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant over the hole. The bearing should be good for another 10,000 miles!
And when reinstalling the throw-out bearing, remember that the protruding part, the part that sticks out, faces forward in the tractor.

The same procedure above È can be done to many types of used precision, high-speed sealed roller bearings, besides just throw-out bearings. And for anyone who's ever wondered about this, when the clutch/brake pedal is fully depressed, the throw-out bearing moves back 3/8" on the driveshaft.

By the way - the throw-out bearing used in the model 582 is different than other models. It's an ordinary sealed high speed radial ball bearing with a sleeve pressed into it. It measures .780" i.d. x 1.850" o.d. x .550" wide. The number is 6204R5 and 180204. These are not Timken numbers. They will need to be cross-referenced.

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If you need a new clutch release/throw-out bearing, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (home/shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell/text). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) Please call before coming on a weekend so I'll be here waiting for our arrival.Fax: 1-573-449-7347. E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. Send a message with Yahoo Messenger: | Directions to our shop | Yahoo! Maps, 1501 W. Old Plank Rd., Columbia, MO | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. Go here for more quality parts and services: Clutch Parts, Rebuilds & Machine Shop Services | NOTE: To place an order, please call or send an email with a list and description of the parts or services you need. Because as of right now, we're not set up to accept orders through our web sites online. FYI - I'm not an OEM Cub Cadet parts dealer. Cub Cadet won't let me become a dealer because there's already one in my area. (It's another way how big businesses support other big businesses, or how the rich help the rich get richer.) Besides, competition from different dealers in the same area helps keep prices low. I think this is unfair business practice because by allowing only one dealer in a wide-spread area can have them gouge (overcharge) unsuspecting customers on parts and/or repair costs. They probably laugh all the way to the bank after every sale, too.

2-Bolt Flange Bearing for front of Cub Cadet "Original" driveshaft. Sealed self-aligning 5/8" i.d. ball bearing with two bolt stamped steel two piece flanged housing. Bearing swivels and is centered in housing. Inner race has 2 set screws for locking to driveshaft. Bearing no longer available from Cub Cadet. Replaces Cub Cadet part #'s IH-468391-R11 (locking collar), IH-468390-R92 (bearing), IH-376272-R1 (retainers).

$15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Clutch Release/Throw-Out Bearing for IH-built Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124, 126, 108, 128, 582, and certain models of 800, 1000 and 1200. Precision, high-speed sealed collar bearing. NOTE: The protruding center part faces forward in the tractor, toward the clutch disc. Replaces Cub Cadet part #'s IH-391237-R91, 941-3056. Our part # 150-543.

$25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Clutch Release/Throw-Out Bearing for certain IH-built Cub Cadet models 800, 1000 and 1200, and MTD-built Cub Cadet models 580, 582, 1050, 1535, 1604, 1606 and 1806.

Precision, high-speed sealed bearing only, reuse your center hub. Bearing dimensions: .780" i.d. x 1.850" o.d. No Cub Cadet part number. Our part # 150-985. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Bearing with center hub and grease fitting. Replaces Cub Cadet part #'s 703-0600 (throw-out bearing assembly), 737-0146 (grease fitting). $50.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Repair Service: Build up welding in clutch release lever in worn area where the throw-out bearing makes contact, and grind it smooth.

$20.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling.

The Pedal Return Spring and Maintaining Proper Clutch Adjustment -

IMPORTANT! Install the pedal return spring to keep from wearing both the throw-out bearing and release lever. Don't just install a cotter pin in place of it. A pedal return spring is a short, very stiff, expansion spring with a hook on each end. The size is approximately 3/4" diameter x 2-1/8" in overall length. And remember to never "ride the clutch." This means keep your foot off the clutch pedal when pulling or operating the tractor!

The return spring connects from the hole in the end of the adjusting rod to a hole in the crossmember that's in the tractor's frame. Install one end of the spring in the linkage first, then install the other end in the crossmember. NOTE: It may be difficult to get the end of the spring in the hole because of the tension, but it can be done and it MUST be done. (I do it all the time with our muscles, Vise Grips and a little leverage from our trusty small prybar.)

There are no adjustments for the pedal return spring. It's job is to prevent the release lever from making connect with a throw-out bearing when the clutch pedal is fully disengaged. The pedal return spring attaches from the adjusting rod that runs from the release lever back to the bell crank that's on the clutch/brake pedal shaft. This shaft goes crossways through the frame of the tractor. It is very important that the tractor have a pedal return spring to prevent wearing of the throw-out bearing against the release lever (it will wear, too) while the clutch pedal is fully disengaged and the tractor is in operation.

If a pedal return spring is not installed or if the operator "rides the clutch" when pulling or when the tractor is in operation (keeping one's foot on the clutch pedal at all times), this will cause the throw-out bearing to spin the same speed as the engine, wearing it out prematurely. This will also wear the release lever as well. So making the proper adjustment and not "riding the clutch" will help the throw-out bearing last a very long time. The return spring connects from the hole in the end of the adjusting rod to a hole in the crossmember in the tractor's frame. NOTE: It may be somewhat difficult to get the end of the spring in the hole because of the tension, but it can be done, and it must be done. (I do it all the time with our Vise Grips and a little leverage from our trusty small prybar.)

No part of the release lever should make contact with the throw-out bearing when the clutch is fully engaged and the clutch/brake pedal arm is against the pedal stop (small angled steel spot-welded to the tractor frame). If it makes contact, and with the engine running, the driveshaft will continually spin the throw-out bearing, causing it to wear prematurely. The throw-out bearing will turn the same rpm as the engine. Therefore, with the clutch/brake pedal arm against the pedal stop, there must be approximately .050" of clearance between the release lever and throw-out bearing so the bearing will not spin. To determine the distance, adjust the nut on the adjusting rod that's on the lower part of the release lever until there's about 9/32" of clearance between the pedal arm and pedal stop. Use a [9/16"] ratcheting boxed-in wrench to make the clutch adjustment much easier. Also, if your tractor doesn't already have one, definitely install a pedal return spring (extension spring) on the adjusting rod to the crossmember that's between the frame rails so the pressure will be taken off the bearing. Return To Previous Paragraph

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If you need any of the parts listed below Ê, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (home/shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell/text). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) Please call before coming on a weekend so I'll be here waiting for our arrival.Fax: 1-573-449-7347. E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. Send a message with Yahoo Messenger: | Directions to our shop | Yahoo! Maps, 1501 W. Old Plank Rd., Columbia, MO | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. Go here for more quality parts and services: Clutch Parts, Rebuilds & Machine Shop Services | NOTE: To place an order, please call or send an email with a list and description of the parts or services you need. Because as of right now, we're not set up to accept orders through our web sites online.

Pedal Return Extension Spring. Fits Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 105, 122, 123, 124 and 125 (used as pedal return spring). A must for clutch drive tractors to prevent rattling sound and premature wear to throw-out bearing and clutch release lever. 2-1/2" unextended length between hooks. Cub Cadet part # IH-370278-R2.

High quality aftermarket. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
OEM Cub Cadet part. $7.65 each, plus shipping & handling.

Pedal Return Extension Spring. Fits Cub Cadet models 73, 106, 108, 109, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 580, 582, 1604, 1606. Brakes and Connections-582-S/N 720000 and below, 800, 1000, 1200, 1050 S/N 756,300-799,999-Brakes and Connections, 1535 S/N 800,000-821,059-Brakes, 1806 S/N 756,300-799,999-Brakes. A must for clutch drive tractors to prevent rattling sound and premature wear to throw-out bearing and clutch release lever. 2-3/4" unextended length between hooks. Cub Cadet part # 932-3015.

High quality aftermarket. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
OEM Cub Cadet part. $7.65 each, plus shipping & handling.

Flywheel Retaining Nut All metal self locking nut for 3/8" diameter threaded clutch release adjusting rod to set clutch adjustment on Cub Cadets. 3/8-24 NF threads. Guaranteed to stay tight. Replaces Cub Cadet part # 912-3061. $1.50 each, plus shipping & handling. Clutch Release Compression Tension Spring for L-shaped 3/8" diameter threaded clutch adjusting rod. Necessary to maintain correct clutch adjustment. Also fits mower deck lift handle. 3-3/4" uncompressed length. For all Cub Cadet narrow, wide and spread frame models. Replaces Cub Cadet part #'s 932-3005, 932-3023.

$5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Information About the Pressure Spring -

If a light-weight tractor with a governed engine (up to 4,000 rpm) is going to be used for general yard work, it's okay to use the stock OEM Cub Cadet pressure spring with the OEM fiber clutch disc. A good used stock OEM pressure spring and a new OEM spring should measure no less than 6-1/2" in uncompressed length. The maximum length is 7". But the compressed length (on the driveshaft with the clutch pedal fully depressed) is 5". If a spring has been used on a driveshaft with an overheated or burned-out throw-out bearing, it's best to replace both. And if the pressure plates have been resurfaced until perfectly flat, but the clutch still slips in the heavier chores, perhaps a cultivator spring kit may need to be installed. (See below Ê.)

For the pressure plates to grip the clutch disc(s) firmly, the pressure spring must be a very stout one. The Cub Cadet pressure spring has about 250 psi of pressure and will probably not prevent the clutch from slipping in a pulling tractor. Therefore, a cultivator spring works excellent with the OEM clutch disc, aluminum disc or double OEM clutches. The cultivator spring has about a 500 psi rating, which is more than enough for use with most types of clutch discs. Also, the cultivator spring isn't large enough in the outside diameter to interfere with the steering box. However, the cross member will need to be notched-out to make room for the larger diameter cultivator spring. Plus, the tension of the cultivator spring is easy on the clutch adjusting rod/linkage and your leg muscles! It's ideal for small kids to use. Return To Previous Paragraph

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If you need the parts listed below Ê, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (home/shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell/text). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) Please call before coming on a weekend so I'll be here waiting for our arrival.Fax: 1-573-449-7347. E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. Send a message with Yahoo Messenger: | Directions to our shop | Yahoo! Maps, 1501 W. Old Plank Rd., Columbia, MO | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. Go here for more quality parts and services: Clutch Parts, Rebuilds & Machine Shop Services | NOTE: To place an order, please call or send an email with a list and description of the parts or services you need. Because as of right now, we're not set up to accept orders through our web sites online.

Cultivator Spring Kit for all models of clutch drive Cub Cadets. Has about 600 lbs. of pressure (psi). Suitable for heavy yard/garden work and/or competition pulling. Lots of pullers like this spring. This spring kit applies just amount of pressure on the clutch disc, and the pedal isn't as hard to depress, even with a stock-length release lever. And when the pressure plates are resurfaced, trued-up and the clutch disc are in good condition, this helps the clutch grip even better. I've seen some pullers install a 1,100-1,200 lb. spring against badly warped (and out of balance) pressure plates with a severely worn clutch disc. Of course, the clutch grips better afterwards, and the puller says: "There, I fixed it!" Dimensions: 7" long x 1-3/8" o.d. x 7/8" i.d. NOTE: When installing this spring, use the original 3rd roll pin hole in the driveshaft, which should measure 9-3/8" from the very front of the driveshaft. And the crossmember in a wide or spread frame Cub Cadet will need to be ground away slightly for clearance of this spring.

$35.00 each kit, plus shipping & handling.

Used OEM Cub Cadet pressure springs. Suitable for general yard and garden work only. Not recommended for competitive pulling. OEM Cub Cadet part # 932-3016.

$10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Clutch Assembly That`s Used in the early models "Narrow" Frame Cub Cadets

NOTE: When the cultivator spring is used, and for smooth clutch engagement and easy release, the 5/8" split lockwasher goes between the pressure plates, and the steel spacer replaces the teasing spring. But when the OEM stock pressure spring is used, leave out the lockwasher and use the OEM teasing spring between the throw-out bearing and rear pressure plate.

Clutch Assembly That`s Used in the later models "Wide" Frame Cub Cadets

Clutch Assembly That`s Used in the late model "Spread" Frame Cub Cadets

There are 4 steps in Installing a Double-Disc Clutch Setup

Step #1 - "Notch" the Release Lever and Relocate it's Bracket:
There are two options of doing this. Either way you choose to do it, you will need to make room for the extra clutch disc and center drive plate.

Option #1:

Relocate the bracket the release lever is connected to rearward 3/8". Or for a very stiff pressure spring, use a piece of minimum 3/16" thickness angled steel to fasten the bracket onto, and weld the angled steel to the frame. Be sure the angled steel is located 3/8" further back than the original bracket was.
Only on the narrow frame Cub Cadets, cut out the lower part of the clutch release lever so it'll clear the steering box, when the clutch/brake pedal is fully depressed. Also, cut out a place in the frame so the release lever will clear it when the clutch/brake pedal is fully depressed.
Cut 3/8" off the threaded end of the clutch adjusting rod. If this is not done, the rod will be too long and interfere with the rear clutch disc.
NOTE: The steel spacer that replaces the teasing spring can't be left out for double clutches because the longer studs (cut-off bolts) in the drive plate would hit the release lever when the clutch is engaged.

Option #2:
Instead of relocating the bracket and notching the lever, the engine mounting holes that's in the frame can be welded up, grind the weld flat, and then drill new holes exactly 3/8" forward (toward the front of the tractor) from the original holes. You'll also need a longer driveshaft, 3/8" longer to be exact. You'll also need to drill the #1 hole forward 3/8", then drill the other holes same as in the original driveshaft.
When using a deep sump oil pan, with the front axle in the stock position and when moving the engine forward, the axle pivot pin would interfere with the pan. For pulling competitively, the front axle would need to be moved as far forward as it'll go for better weight distribution. But if your club's rules don't allow the front axle to be moved forward, then a flat bottom oil pan can be used, then the engine can be moved forward with no problems. Of course, half of the dipper on the connecting rod would need to be cut off, too.
Either the engine can be moved forward or the bracket moved rearward. Either way, one or the other will need to be relocated to accommodate for the extra clutch disc and center plate so the clutch will function properly.

Using a Volkswagen Clutch Assembly in a Cub Cadet -

The third type of clutch that some pullers use is a Volkswagen clutch assembly (starter, flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate and throw-out bearing and release lever) adapted to the Kohler crankshaft with a special-made tapered hub adapter. This type of clutch is made for the 1974 VW's and earlier with the air-cooled engine. They weigh more than the double clutch assembly as described above È (about 22 lbs. lighter, less hub) and they hold extremely well even in a highly modified (50+ c.i.) garden tractor. Also, the VW flywheel, starter ring gear and clutch assembly requires the VW starter. An adapter that replaces the Kohler-type flywheel must be fastened onto the crankshaft for the VW flywheel to work. And the starter must be adapted onto the Kohler engine block with a special bracket. The VW clutch comes in two sizes, 180mm and 200mm, with the 180mm being the choice for garden tractor pulling. This type of starter and clutch assembly is losing popularity with pullers who run the 50+ c.i. garden tractors because of it's excessive [forward] weight.

Improving International Harvester's Cub Cadet "Original" Clutch Assembly - (Updated 11/24/08) Top of page

The first Cub Cadet model made was the International Cub Cadet tractor, better known as the Cub Cadet "Original". The reason this particular tractor is called the "Original" because they're the very first Cub Cadet garden tractor that International Harvester produced. That's why most folks nowadays call them the Cub Cadet "Original". They didn't have a model number because they were all built basically the same, and they all shared the same parts.

On these tractors, the power is transferred from a small pulley that is on the engine, onto a larger pulley that is on the driveshaft by use of a V belt, which act like a gear reduction. It's approximately a 1.6:1 reduction. This means that engine torque is increased 1.6 times to the driveshaft because the clutch/driveshaft assembly turns 1.6 times slower than the engine. This increases the power of the original 6¼hp into a 10hp engine.

Replacing the Drive Belt -

To remove and install the drive belt on an IH Cub Cadet "Original", the entire clutch assembly needs to be removed. After installing the belt and reinstalling the clutch assembly, the belt needs to be tightened by pulling down on the front brace of the clutch assembly (use a pry bar), and tighten the bolts.

Repairing the Drive Clutch -

If the drive clutch holds well, but won't release at times, this means the sliding parts on the driveshaft are dry or the old grease has accumulated dirt and/or has "dried up," causing the parts to bind on the driveshaft.

How to Disassemble and Reassemble the IH Cub Cadet "Original" Clutch Assembly -

Use a big bench vise to disassemble and reassemble the clutch assembly.
Place the front of the driveshaft in the jaws of the vise (with a couple of soft aluminum angled pieces placed in the vice jaws, of course), and tighten down the jaws
Use a 3-4 lb. hammer to drive the driveshaft forward until the first spiral pin can be removed.
Remove the driveshaft from the vise, and slide off the pressure plates and clutch/pulley.
Place the driveshaft in the vise again, and butt the splined piece against the jaws of the vise and remove the pin from the splined piece.
Place a small screwdriver in the front spiral pin hole (so the driveshaft so it won't shoot out of the vise), and carefully loosen the vise to remove it.
Reassembly is the opposite of disassembly.

But if the clutch slips, performing the following should cure the problem:

First, resurface the cast iron pressure plates on a flat belt or large disc sander until they're perfectly flat. If the clutch discs (which is part of the pulley) aren't worn excessively, they can be sanded flat as well to match the flatness of the pressure plates. Just remove the raised places, no more. But if the fiber material is worn thin or if you have doubts that it won't grip well, then install new clutch facings on the pulley.

If the clutch fiber material "peels off" or comes loose from the pulley, it can be reattached with Super Glue or any high-strength adhesive or glue. As soon as the fiber material is glued on the pulley, place the clutch/pulley assembly between two thick flat steel plates to cover the entire fiber material, then place them in a hydraulic press and apply light pressure to squeeze out any air bubbles that may get trapped so the fiber material will have a stronger bond and lay flat. If a hydraulic press isn't available, then using one of the tires that's on a car or truck will place enough pressure, too. After the glue has dried, lightly sand the fiber material on a large flat sanding disc or belt sander to insure true flatness.

For even better clutch adhesion or "holding power," the OEM pressure spring can be replaced with a cultivator spring kit. Be sure to drill the 3rd hole to 1/4" and install a heavy spiral pin, too! Install a new bronze bushing in the throw-out bearing if it's worn. Then lubricate the throw-out bearing through the factory-installed grease fitting. Under normal use, the throw-out bearing needs to be lubricated once a year.

And as far as I'm aware, new fiber facings for the IH Cub Cadet "Original" clutch is not available from any source. But 6061 aluminum can be used as clutch facings on the IH Cub Cadet "Original" clutch pulley. The dimensions of the fabricated aluminum clutch facings are as follows: 4-1/2" o.d. x 3" i.d. x 1/8" thick. Fasten the aluminum to the pulley with six (for strength) 10-32 NF x 1/2" long flat head brass screws equally spaced apart on each side. Offset the threaded holes in the pulley so the threads of the screws on one side won't interfere with the screws on the other side. Countersink the heads of the screws into the aluminum with the heads slightly below the surface of the aluminum. Make sure the aluminum is perfectly flat before installing it on the pulley, too. And of course, when using aluminum as clutch material, a stiffer-than-stock pressure spring, such as the cultivator spring kit, will be required to prevent clutch slippage.

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If you need any of the parts and/or services below Ê, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (home/shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell/text). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) Please call before coming on a weekend so I'll be here waiting for our arrival.Fax: 1-573-449-7347. E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. Send a message with Yahoo Messenger: | Directions to our shop: Yahoo! Maps, 1501 W. Old Plank Rd., Columbia, MO | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. Go here for more quality parts and services: Clutch Parts, Rebuilds & Machine Shop Services | NOTE: To place an order, please call or send an email with a list and description of the parts or services you need. Because as of right now, we're not set up to accept orders through our web sites online.

An engine that runs at high rpms or at wide open throttle, the bronze bushing in the IH Cub Cadet "Original" clutch disc/pulley will not last long under side-thrust. Therefore, it'll be a good idea to have two sealed, high speed radial ball bearings installed in the clutch/pulley disc. See the picture below Ê for a better understanding.

New OEM-quality bronze pilot bushing for all pre-1981 gear drive IH Cub Cadets, except "Quiet Line" models. Also replacement bushing for inside the IH Cub Cadet "Original" clutch disc/pulley. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Rebuild IH Cub Cadet "Original" clutch assembly to OEM specs: $60.00 labor only, plus return shipping & handling. Labor includes: Disassemble complete unit, clean and inspect all parts, resurface both pressure plates and fiber clutch facings, Parts includes: New bronze bushing in clutch disc/pulley and throw-out bearing assembly (if needed), lubricate bushings and install new spiral pins.
Two high-quality, high-speed sealed radial ball bearings: add $8.00. (5/8" i.d. x 1-3/8" o.d x .340" height)
Bore center of clutch disc/pulley for installation of two high-quality, high-speed sealed radial ball bearings: add $25.00 labor. An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this.
Build up welding on driveshaft and machine it smooth: add $25.00 labor.
NOTE: If you're interested in having me do the work for you, please send your clutch assembly when you're ready to the address below Ê. Package it securely so it won't get damaged or lost in shipping and please include a note in the package with your name, complete mailing address, phone number, email address (in case I have any questions) and a description of what you want done any other parts you may need. When the work is completed, I'll either call or email you an invoice with the total including shipping. For payment, I accept cash (in person), money orders, cashier's checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover (your credit/debit card will be charged the same day the items are shipped) and Western Union Money Transfer. Or you can pay me through PayPal (my PayPal account name is my email address). If sending a money order, please include a note with your name, complete mailing address, phone number and a description of what the payment is for. My mailing address and phone number are below Ê. And I will return your rebuilt clutch assembly to you as soon as the work is completed after I receive your payment.

The drive belt for an IH Cub Cadet "Original" is part number IH-376230-R1, the size is 3/8" wide x 31-1/2" long and it retails for about $12.00 (as of 3/21/12).

A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises Offering Quality Products and Professional Workmanship at Reasonable Prices!

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If you need any of the parts and/or services listed below Ê, or if you need your clutch assembly rebuilt or need some clutch parts as described in this web site, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises \| 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. \| Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA \| Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (home/shop) \| 1-573-881-7229 (cell/text). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) Please call before coming on a weekend so I'll be here waiting for our arrival.Fax: 1-573-449-7347. E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. Send a message with Yahoo Messenger: \| Directions to our shop \| Yahoo! Maps, 1501 W. Old Plank Rd., Columbia, MO \| 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. Go here for more quality parts and services: Clutch Parts, Rebuilds & Machine Shop Services \| NOTE: To place an order, please call or send an email with a list and description of the parts or services you need. Because as of right now, we're not set up to accept orders through our web sites online.
High quality aftermarket fiber material clutch disc for Cub Cadet garden tractors. Provides about 70% more grip than stock Cub Cadet fiber clutch disc. Drop in replacement of OEM Cub Cadet clutch disc. Can be used with the 6- or 3-pin drive plate. Replaces Cub Cadet part # 961-3002. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling. IMPORTANT - Both pressure plates MUST be resurfaced until perfectly flat and trued-up (to reduce vibration) in a metal lathe or severe clutch slippage may result! FYI - About 90% of the fiber material in Cub Cadet clutch discs will chip off were the holes are due to the following reasons: The fiber material is so hard (for long wear), it's actually brittle and will easily chip off or break when mishandled. Sometimes when installing the engine in the tractor, the fiber material will chip off when sliding the drive pins or studs into the clutch disc. The holes in the fiber material will sometimes chip off and/or wear larger under normal use because the three OEM drive pins or studs place pressure against the holes. When the original three holes wear extremely large, a new hole can be precision-drilled between the original holes and the clutch disc can be reused. Using the OEM Cub Cadet clutch drive plate with three additional drive studs precision-drilled and installed or an aftermarket 6-pin drive plate with a 6-hole clutch disc (three additional holes drilled) will place 50% less pressure and reduce the amount of wear against each hole. The more drive pins or studs the drive plate has, less wear to the holes will result in the clutch disc. The drive plate and clutch disc can have as many as 9 or 12 drive pins and holes.
Teasing Spring for all clutch-drive Cub Cadets. OEM Cub Cadet part # 932-3017. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.	[Protective] Cup/Spacer for Teasing Spring in Cub Cadet clutch drive wide and spread frame models 86, 108, 128, 800, 1000, 1200 and 1535. OEM Cub Cadet part # 911-3040. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Coming Soon! A-1 Miller's own CNC-machined 6-hole aluminum clutch discs. Projected price: $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. As soon as I have this part available, it'll be posted here. New machined aluminum clutch disc with (6) 13/32" drive holes for a 3- or 6-pin drive plate. This is a direct replacement for Cub Cadet's OEM fiber clutch disc. Made of the highest quality 6061 alloy; medium-grade hardness aluminum available. The edge of the disc is turned true in my metal lathe, then the 6 holes are precision-drilled using my milling machine in an 8" super spacer with a 6-notch masking plate. Unlike the competition that offer the same copycat part, the drive holes in my aluminum discs are drilled to 13/32" to reduce clutch rattle and less chance of breakage to the drive pins. IMPORTANT - Both pressure plates MUST be resurfaced until perfectly flat and trued-up (to reduce vibration) in a metal lathe or severe clutch slippage may result! Aluminum clutch disc only. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling. 5/8" i.d. Zinc-Plated Steel Split Lock Washer and Steel Spacer. Replaces teasing spring on all Cub Cadet narrow frame clutch drive models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124 and 126. NOTE: Lock washer not for use with OEM Cub Cadet clutch pressure spring. Use with cultivator spring kit. $5.00 per set, plus shipping & handling. CUB CADET 124 WORK PART 2 - YouTube
Clutch Disc Anti-Rattle Spring. Reduces noisy clutch rattle. Three required for each drive pin. OEM Cub Cadet part # 932-3018. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.	Center drive plate (floater/disc) for double OEM fiber clutch disc setup. Made of mild steel. Trued-up in my metal lathe. Dimensions: .133" thickness x .626" center hole x approximately 4-1/2" diameter. $20.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Your Cub Cadet drive clutch pressure plates professionally resurfaced until perfectly flat and trued up in my metal lathe. FYI - OEM Cub Cadet steel pressure plates are stamped in a large press and not machined in a lathe from the factory, which makes them oblong (egg-shaped) and not perfectly flat. Oblong (out of balance) pressure plates will cause the bronze pilot bushing to wear and the driveshaft to break at high rpms. And pressure plates that's not perfectly flat will cause the clutch to slip. (I've seen some pullers install a 1,100-1,200 lb. spring against badly warped (and out of balance) pressure plates with a severely worn-out clutch disc. Of course, the clutch grips better afterwards, and the puller says: "There, I fixed it!" ) $15.00 labor for two pressure plates, plus return shipping & handling. Used OEM Cub Cadet drive clutch pressure plates, professionally resurfaced until perfectly flat and trued up in my metal lathe. Replace deep-pitted rusted, severely worn or bent pressure plates. Front Pressure Plate w/solid hub. OEM Cub Cadet part # 903-0214. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.) (New from Cub Cadet dealer: $71.52 each! Stamped steel; not resurfaced and/or trued-up.) Rear Pressure Plate w/slotted hub. OEM Cub Cadet part # 903-0213. $30.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.) (New from Cub Cadet dealer: $94.47 each! Stamped steel; not resurfaced and/or trued-up.)