How to Rebuild and Improve the Cub Cadet Drive Clutch Assembly

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Improving International Harvester's IH Cub Cadet "Original" (belt-to-clutch-drive) Clutch Assembly (Updated 11/20/10)
I can also professionally rebuild other garden tractor clutches of virtually any kind as well as Cub Cadet. Please contact me if interested.

On the direct-drive Cub Cadet, power from the engine is through the clutch and driveshaft assembly to the transaxle and to the rear tires. If the clutch is severely worn or if stock (OEM) parts may slip and little power or torque will be transferred, especially when using the tractor for competition pulling (especially with a big engine in a fast gear), gardening or to haul heavy loads. An engine in a pulling tractor that's built to the max or runs at high RPM or at wide open throttle produces a lot more torque than what the engineers at Cub Cadet originally anticipated for the driveline to handle. Therefore, the clutch assembly is the weak point (and the one-piece carrier and coarse spline axles), and will need to be reinforced and built up for strength for durability and to prevent slippage. Remember: towards the end of the track, if the tires don't spin or the engine bogs down, then the clutch will slip or something elsewhere in the driveline will possibly twist or break.

Types of Clutch Assemblies -

An ordinary clutch assembly for general lawn and garden use consist of a mild steel driveshaft, fiber clutch disc and a light-weight pressure spring. But a clutch assembly for competition pulling and/or heavy lawn and garden use consist of a heavy duty 3- or 6-pin drive plate, either a stress-proof steel or stainless steel driveshaft, either a single- or double- OEM Cub Cadet or aftermarket fiber clutch disc, or a single aluminum clutch disc (depending on which class the tractor pulls in), and definitely a much stiffer pressure spring for placing a heavier load on the clutch disc. Also, the pressure plates will definitely need to be resurfaced until perfectly flat and trued-up in a small metal lathe to ensure that the pressure plates will adhere to the clutch disc to prevent slippage. Because new OEM Cub Cadet pressure plates are made of stamped steel and are not machined whatsoever. This means they are not perfectly flat and they wobble from the factory. If used pressure plates have not been resurfaced before, then chances are, they'll still be thick enough after being resurfaced. Always remove the minimal amount of metal to retain maximum thickness so they will not warp when hot. (IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable using a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist with a lathe.) The same happens to automotive flywheels and pressure plates as the clutch disc wears. They need to be resurfaced too, when installing a new clutch disc. And the heavier or stronger the clutch assembly is, the more it will cost.

(Updated 7/18/18) By the way - if the rotating clutch parts are precision balanced, installed and adjusted correctly, the OEM Cub Cadet or aftermarket double fiber clutch disc setup will last a long time, a lot longer than the aftermarket 3 puck metallic clutch disc. Most double fiber clutch disc setups last 20+ years under hard pulling every year before needing servicing or adjusting. No joke. Unlike the double fiber clutch disc setup, which requires that either the engine be moved forward 3/8" in the tractor or the clutch release lever hanger bracket be moved rearward 3/8" (to make room for the extra clutch disc [1/4" thickness] and center steel drive plate [1/8" thickness]), most pullers prefer to use the 3 puck metallic clutch disc because no modifications needs to be made to the engine mounting holes or the clutch release lever hanger bracket.

Cub Cadet made three different 3-pin clutch drive plates...

The first clutch drive plate is designed for the IH-built narrow- and wide-frame Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124, 126, 86, 108 and 128 with a solid-mounted engine. It's made of flat, solid/non-flexible, 1/8" thickness steel, with a bronze bushing (pilot bearing) pressed in the center to support the driveshaft, and has spiral pins to drive the clutch disc. This type of drive plate can also be used on the "Quiet Line" ISO-mounted tractors (below Ê) as long as solid motor mounts are installed. It's Cub Cadet part # IH-384652-R12.
The second clutch drive plate is designed for the IH-built Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" models 800, 1000 and 1200 (and models 1250, 1450 and 1650 with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment) with an ISO-mounted engine (engine mounted on rubber to reduce overall tractor vibration and operator discomfort). It has a flat, thin, flexible, hardened steel center section riveted to a thicker outer flat plate of steel, and has a spherical-swivel bronze bushing (pilot bearing), and has spiral pins to drive the clutch disc. Due to the engine being mounted on rubber, which allows it to "move around" while in operation, the thin center section in this drive plate is notorious for cracking or breaking after just a few years of general lawn and garden use. There is no way to prevent this damage except install solid motor mounts and a solid clutch drive plate (above È). It's Cub Cadet part # IH-117591-C1.
And the third clutch drive plate is designed for the IH-built 582 and all MTD-built Cub Cadet models 580 (disc clutch drive models), 582 (disc clutch drive models), 1050, 1535, 1604 (disc clutch drive models), 1606 (disc clutch drive models) and 1806. It's made of 1/8" thick concaved (dish-shaped) steel, and has a spherical-swivel bronze bushing (pilot bearing), and has partially threaded studs with nuts to drive the clutch disc. This drive plate is a much better design over the previous IH "ISO-mount" design because it's rigid and don't break or crack due to the engine being mounted on rubber. Due to the dish-shaped offset and engine placement in the tractor, this drive plate can only be used in the IH-built 582 and the MTD-built Cub Cadets. It's Cub Cadet part # 903-0216.
The bolt-circle pattern for the three clutch disc drive pins/partially threaded studs and four mounting holes are the same for all drive plates above È.

Depending on the class your tractor is going to pull in and engine size/modifications, there are many variations in which clutch/driveshaft design and carrier/axles to use. Listed are the weakest to the strongest:

For driveshaft material, there's mild steel, 1144 Stress Proof steel, chromoly steel and stainless steel.
- For the clutch drive models, the wide frame driveshaft is exactly 1" longer than the narrow frames, and the IH-built model 582 (serial number 719999 and below Ê) driveshaft has a blunt end and 5/8" steel ball that swivels with engine movement (ISO mount) in the center hole of the input shaft on the transaxle, and MTD-built 582 (serial number 720000 and up) driveshaft is 1/2" longer with a pointed end that swivels with engine movement in the center hole of the input shaft on the transaxle.
As for the types of clutch setups, there's the single OEM Cub Cadet or aftermarket fiber clutch disc with a stiffer pressure spring, a single aluminum clutch disc, also with a stiffer pressure spring, double OEM Cub Cadet or aftermarket clutch discs with a stiffer pressure spring, the metallic clutch disc with a stiffer pressure spring, multiple clutch discs with a stiffer pressure spring, Volkswagen clutch/pressure plate/flywheel, etc.
And as for the carrier and axles, there's the OEM Cub Cadet heavy duty one-piece carrier with either coarse or fine spline axles, OEM Cub Cadet's (MTD) two-piece fine spline carrier and axles, Ford Pinto carrier and axles, Chrysler's 7-1/4" carrier and axles, and Ford's 8" carrier and axles.

Using Quality Driveshaft Material Is Important!

Most driveshafts are likely to break at the second spiral/roll pin hole, just in front of the clutch release/throw-out bearing. Because that's where the most vibration usually occurs. They also break just behind the pressure spring, in front of the pillow block bearing, due to temporary frame twisting (narrow frames) when pulling. If this happens, it's best to install a split clamping/locking collar.

What mainly makes the driveshaft break at 4,000+ RPM is either...

Poor quality material and/or workmanship.
Loosening of engine to oil pan due to use of an oil pan gasket.
Out-of-balance clutch parts and/or out-of-balance rotating engine parts, which could cause harmonic vibrations (resonance) to travel throughout the clutch and driveshaft assembly.
Lack of a pillow block bearing and support brace installed midway on the driveshaft.
Lack of solid motor mounts in a "Quiet Line" ISO-mounted engine in a Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" tractor.
Lack of 1/4" thick steel engine-stiffener plates installed under tractor frame to make the engine rigid in a narrow- or wide-frame (solid-mounted engine models) Cub Cadet with front axle is moved forward to end of frame.
Severe flexing of the frame on a narrow frame Cub Cadet when the frame rails are widened and not reinforced to accommodate the larger 9-1/2" flywheel and gear starter.

If quality driveshaft material is used, and if the rotating parts are precision balanced and if a carrier bearing is also installed (above 4,000 RPM. The factory setting of maximum RPM for virtually all small gas engines, including all of Kohler engines is 3,600), the driveshaft could possibly last the life of the tractor. Even when used in high-performance conditions.

Remember, in the direct-drive Cub Cadet, the entire clutch/driveshaft assembly rotates the same speed as the engine. For reliability in a highly modified tractor that turns well above 4,000 RPM, the driveshaft must be made of quality, solid hardened steel that can resist torsional twist. Such as 1144 stress-proof steel, heat-treated 4140 chrome-moly steel or 304 alloy stainless steel.

Mild steel (cold rolled; 45,000 P.S.I. strength; about the same as OEM material) cost the least, and can be safely used in a basic stock tractor with an engine that's limited to 4,000 RPM or for non-pulling applications. It's obviously easy to bore holes through.
Stress-proof steel is heat-treated, which makes it very strong (95,000 P.S.I. strength, which is about twice stronger than OEM driveshafts). It'll flex with slightly out-of-balance rotating parts at high RPM or at wide open throttle then return to its original straightness when the speed is reduced. It's easy to bore holes through.
Heat-treated chrome-moly steel is another quality material to use. It comes in various hardnesses; from 60,000 to 100,000 P.S.I. strength. It's somewhat easy to bore holes through.
304 alloy stainless steel is much more rigid than any of the above È metals (130,000 P.S.I. strength) and works excellent for use as driveshaft material. It require a little more effort to bore holes through.

IH Cub Cadet`s Use quality coiled/spiral pins for driveshafts to prevent the possibility of pin breakage. Spiral pins are much stronger than the spring-type or C-shaped spiral/roll pins. And all Cub Cadet driveshafts require the spiral roll-pins. Also, use a quality-made 1/4" roll-pin punch tool to remove the roll-pins. And whenever a roll-pin is removed, one end will probably get "mushroomed" or flared out. Making reinstallation almost impossible. So before reinstalling reusable roll-pins, ground the burr off the end of it, and ground a chamfer on the end (grind to a dull point) to make the installation easier. (Remember to wear safety glasses!)

Removing Spiral Pins -

Personally, I use 2 lb. hammer and a quality-made 1/4" spiral/roll pin punch to drive the pins out of the driveshaft and rear rigid tubular coupler. I've had some stubborn pins before, but they've always drove out with determination, and no damage to anything (except to the pin itself). Spiral pins can't be drilled out either because they're just as hard as a high quality drill bit. Or if the spiral pin is really stubborn, it can be heated with an oxy-acetylene torch. This will cause the spring-action or outward expansion of the pin to weaken and collapse, then it can be driven out much easier. Be careful not to melt the pin with the torch! Doing this could make it much more difficult to remove.

When to Use a Split Clamping/Locking Collar on the Driveshaft - (Updated 11/2/16)

The only reason a split clamping/locking collar is needed behind the pressure spring is for competition pulling and when the engine turns at high RPMs or at wide open throttle. When a pillow block bearing and support brace (that's welded to the inside of the tractor frame) is used to stabilize the driveshaft and prevent wobble at high RPMs. The collar lessens the chance of driveshaft breakage when a hole is drilled for the 3rd spiral/roll pin, and when or if the driveshaft flexes under pulling strain. If a stock engine will never turn above 4,000 RPM, then a split clamping/locking collar shouldn't be needed on the driveshaft because the driveshaft will not wobble as much. On a stock tractor with a 4,000± RPM engine, instead of using a clamping/locking collar, install a thick washer in place of the collar, with a long steel tube on the driveshaft extending from the washer butted against the rear driveshaft coupler. A 3rd spiral/roll pin hole will not be required, too.

The split clamping/locking collar can also be used on front of the IH Cub Cadet "Original" driveshaft to prevent driveshaft from moving rearward when clutch pedal is depressed.

Moreover, when using a stainless steel driveshaft, due to the "slickness" and hardness of the metal, just one split clamping/locking collar may slip rearward when the clutch pedal is fully depressed. Sometimes even using two collars will slip also. So to prevent the collar(s) from slipping, install flat washers behind the collar and in front of the pillow block bearing and support brace so the pressure will be placed against the bearing, and the bearing will hold the collar in place. And a single split clamping/locking collar will grip mild or 1144 stress proof steel with no problems. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]

IMPORTANT! Do this only if the front axle has been moved forward -

Engine Mounting/Frame Steel Reinforcement Plates On the narrow frame Cub Cadets, if the front axle has been moved forward, reinforce the frame rails where the engine mounting holes are to reduce normal high-RPM engine vibration travel that could lead to both frame and driveshaft breakage. To do so, stiffen the frame rails where the engine mounting bolt holes are by welding two 1/4" thick steel plates under the frame. Longer engine mounting bolts must be used, too. The reason for this is because when the front axle center support is moved, the remaining frame material isn't thick enough to hold up to the engine vibration.

For the spread frame models with the ISO (rubber) motor mounts, replace the rubber mounts with a set of our solid steel motor mounts or remove the brackets and fabricate a minimum 1/4" thick plate steel, set it at the right height and weld it to the frame. But the engine mounting holes and oil drain plug hole must be properly located (centered) and drilled in the plate first. This is much easier to do on a platform work table. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]

Cub Cadet Engine Mounting Brackets and Plates:

How to Remove the Driveshaft/Clutch Assembly from a Cub Cadet: (This is much easier to do on a platform work table.)

Remove the engine. The 3-pin clutch drive plate remains on the engine and it slides out of the driveshaft and clutch disc when the engine is removed.
Unfasten the clutch release lever from the frame and clutch adjustment/release rod.
There's a spiral pin in the tubular or flex arm driveshaft coupler that fastens onto the input shaft in the transaxle. Remove it by using a 1/4" spiral/roll pin punch and a medium sized hammer.
The spiral pin in the input shaft on the transaxle of a narrow frame Cub Cadet garden tractor can be very difficult to remove and somewhat difficult to access from underneath. Therefore, it's recommended that a 1" hole should be drilled through the top of a short tunnel cover (center section of the tractor frame), or through the side of a tall tunnel cover in direct alignment with the spiral pin, then use a long 1/4" roll pin punch and medium size hammer to drive the pin from the coupler. Don't attempt to drill-out the spiral pin. They're just as hard as a high quality drill bit. After the pin is removed and the clutch assembly is rebuilt, upon reinstallation in the tractor, use a socket in the drilled hole to fasten a hardened steel 1/4" diameter [grade 8 or Allen head] bolt in the coupler. For cosmetic purpose, hide the drilled hole with a 1" plastic or metal hole plug. Just push the plug in the hole for a nice distinctive look. And sometimes when driving out the spiral pin, the pounding will bend the input shaft in the transaxle. If this happens, the input shaft will need to be straightened (and hope it doesn't break later because the metal has been weakened) or a good used input shaft will need to be installed. This is why it's highly recommended that a hardened steel 1/4" bolt/lock nut be used in the coupler in place of the spiral pin because if the driveshaft ever needs to be removed again, removing a bolt/lock nut would be a lot easier than driving out a stubborn spiral pin. Plus, it'll be easier on your nerves and on the input shaft.
The driveshaft assembly then slides out of the tractor.

How to Disassemble the Clutch Components from the Driveshaft -

To disassemble the clutch components from the driveshaft, first place the front pressure plate hub on slightly open jaws of a bench vise, and use a quality-made 1/4" spiral/roll pin punch and a medium size hammer to drive out the spiral pin. Then the pressure plates, clutch disc clutch release/throw-out bearing and pressure spring should all slide off the driveshaft.

Fasten the Coupler Arms Together To Make One Rigid Driveshaft Coupler -

Flex Coupler Arms Fastened Together With solid motor mounts installed in a Cub Cadet that originally came with an ISO-mounted engine, the driveshaft will not be able to "move" with the engine and there'll be less chance of clutch parts prematurely wearing or breaking. The flexible rubber disc(s) at the end of the driveshaft will be useless too, and could deteriorate over time. So instead of replacing the OEM coupler arms with a machined rigid tubular coupler, make the coupler arms rigid by removing the flexible rubber disc(s) and install a couple of 3/8" thickness spacers for a single disc, and a couple of 3/4" thickness spacers for double fiber clutch discs, and fasten the arms together with a couple of 3/8" diameter hardened steel bolts. (Large nuts are used as spacers in the picture to the right.) By the way - one rubber flex disc is 3/8" thick. This setup is just as strong as using a rigid tubular coupler, and it cost a lot less.

IMPORTANT! If the outer parts of the two arms don't come together or meet when the bolts are tightened (be careful not to tighten the bolts too tight if the arms don't meet, they could break), a couple of thin flat washers may need to be added as shims next to the spacers. And before fastening the arms together with the spacers, first slide the arms on the driveshaft so they'll be in perfect alignment with each other, and tighten the bolts. See the picture to the right. Also, if you want, leave out the 5/8" diameter [swivel/spacer] steel ball. It'll serve no purpose when using solid motor mounts and when making the coupler arms rigid.

FYI - Many pullers convert the hydrostatic drive Cub Cadet models 109, 129, 149 and 169 (wide frames, solid mounted engine) and models 1250, 1450 and 1650 (wide frames, ISO-mounted engine) into a clutch-drive tractor. All that's needed are the clutch assembly with the hanger bracket for the release lever and a complete transaxle out of a model 86, 108, 128 (wide frames, solid mounted engine) or models 800, 1000 or 1200 (wide frames, ISO-mounted engine) gear drive Cub Cadet. A set of my solid motor mounts will be needed also if the tractor originally has the ISO rubber motor mounts. The braking mechanism out of a wide frame Cub Cadet will also be needed.

IMPORTANT! Do not fasten the two coupler arms directly together on the IH Cub Cadet "Original" because the driveshaft needs to move up or down to tighten the drive belt with the engine. Leave the flexible rubber disc in place, even for pulling competition. Or a 5/8" i.d. universal joint can be installed instead.

A rigid tubular rear driveshaft coupler with a worn center can be repaired by boring out the center and installing a press-fit steel sleeve. Then ream the sleeve to .626" for a slip-fit on the driveshaft. Then the holes for the spiral pins can be drilled. The boring and reaming process should be performed on a milling machine with a self-centering 3-jaw super spacer or in a metal lathe with a self-centering 3-jaw chuck. (IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable using a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist with a lathe.)

Installing a spiral pin in the rear of the driveshaft to connect the coupler to the input shaft on the transaxle of a Cub Cadet can be very difficult. To make it much easier, simply use a 1/4" grade 8 bolt instead. For strength, the shank (unthreaded part) of the bolt needs to have full contact with the coupler and driveshaft. And as long as the driveshaft is in correct alignment with the centerline of the crankshaft and transaxle input shaft, with the spiral pins holes in-line with each other, and not offset 90°, at around 4,000 RPM, this should not cause the driveshaft to "shake around" or vibrate whatsoever. At high RPM or at wide open throttle, a pillow block bearing and support brace should be used midway on the driveshaft.

For pulling applications, rubber motor mounts (and the flexible coupler at the rear of the driveshaft) absorbs valuable horsepower, which must be transferred to the rear tires for full power to the track. The rubber motor mounts will also cause the engine to vibrate excessively at high RPM or at wide open throttle. Plus, with normal use of the tractor, rubber motor mounts could cause the flexible 3-pin drive plate and/or the driveshaft to eventually break. If a tractor that has rubber motor mounts and a flexible coupler is going to be used for competition pulling, definitely install some metal motor mounts.

The Correct Way to Drill a Hole for a Roll, Coiled or Spiral Pin so the Hole Will Not Be Too Big for the Pin -

First of all, when using a milling machine, use a spotting drill bit, or use a center punch or transfer punch to locate exactly where the hole needs to be drilled to prevent the drill bit from "skating" on the surface. This will position and guide the drill bit to bore EXACTLY where the hole needs to be drilled. And due to the natural expansion of a roll, coiled or spiral pin, ALWAYS drill the hole with a drill bit that's one size smaller than the actual size for the roll, coiled or spiral pin's size, to allow for sufficient compression of the pin when installed in the hole. For example: for a 1/4" roll, coiled or spiral pin, initially drill the hole with a 15/64" drill bit (one size smaller than the 1/4" drill bit), then finish enlarging the same hole with a 1/4" drill bit. Doing this will guarantee the hole will be EXACTLY 1/4" in diameter. If the hole is initially drilled with just the 1/4" bit, chances are, this will cause the hole to be wallowed out, making it too big for the 1/4" roll, coiled or spiral pin. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]

The main cause of breakage of the OEM Cub Cadet aluminum hub adapter on competition pulling engines that run at wide open throttle is using out-of-balance OEM clutch pressure plates and OEM 3-pin clutch drive plate, and/or not installing the large flat washer under the nut or bolt (as described below Ê). So as long as the clutch pressure plates and 3-pin clutch drive plate are trued-up in a unworn metal lathe to remove the run-out or wobble so they'll be precision balanced, this hub have been known to hold up very well even in a highly modified competition garden pulling tractor as long as the original 1/4" thick x no less than 1-1/4" o.d. flat washer is installed under the flywheel nut or bolt with hardened 1/4" bolts w/split lock washers to securely fasten the drive plate to the hub. Otherwise, it's pretty tough.

Separate the Brake and Clutch Operations - (This have been done by many professional pullers in the past.)

Cub Cadet garden tractors that have the brakes integrated with the clutch/brake pedal, when applying the brakes on a competition pulling tractor that has an extremely stiff clutch pressure spring (on the driveshaft), great effort is required (strong leg muscles) to overcome and compress the clutch spring before the brakes can be safely applied. When rolling the tractor off a trailer, this also requires even greater effort to depress the clutch/brake pedal to apply the brakes especially by hand (and arm muscles). What can be done to change this is separate the brake(s) and the clutch operations by disconnecting the brake linkage from the clutch/brake pedal cross shaft, and fabricate a long upright lever (with an adjustable linkage) on the right side of the steering column support pedestal which can be easily and effortlessly pulled back (rearward) by hand to apply the brakes. The clutch/brake pedal will then become just a "clutch pedal," and the lever will be the "brake lever." This would make it much safer and easier to fully stop or slow the tractor down a steep hill or when unloading the tractor down the ramp(s) of a utility trailer or platform work table. Also, a "parking brake" lock mechanism can be installed on the brake lever-to-tractor frame to securely lock the brakes in position to prevent the tractor from rolling or coasting when the tractor is out of gear and the engine running.

If an OEM 3-pin clutch drive plate is bent next to the drive studs (MTD) or spiral pin collars (IH), to fix this:

Straighten the pins/collars with a hammer the best you can. Place a clutch disc with unworn holes over the pins to ensure they're properly straightened.
Securely weld each collar to the plate. Try to apply an even amount of weld around each collar for proper balance and to reduce vibration. It's also a good idea to weld the collars on a drive plate that's not bent, to ensure it will not get bent in the future.
True all rotating clutch parts (drive plate and pressure plates) in a metal lathe that has a 3-jaw self-centering scroll chuck to reduce vibration, wear on the pilot bushing and possible driveshaft breakage at high RPM or at wide open throttle. Because new OEM Cub Cadet pressure plates are made of stamped steel and are not machined whatsoever. This means they are not perfectly flat and they wobble from the factory. If used pressure plates have not been resurfaced before, then chances are, they'll still be thick enough after being resurfaced. Always remove the minimal amount of metal to retain maximum thickness so they will not warp when hot. (IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable using a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist with a lathe.)

If the bronze pilot bushing in a drive plate is excessively worn, this means that the pressure plates are badly out of balance and/or there was no lubricating grease applied to the bushing or on the driveshaft before installation of the clutch assembly in the tractor. In either case, resurface the pressure plates until they're perfectly flat and true-up the edge to prevent wobble in a metal lathe. IMPORTANT: To ensure true flatness when resurfacing pressure plates, use a lathe that's in good condition with very little wear on the ways! (IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable using a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist with a lathe.)

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OEM-Thickness Bronze Pilot Bushing. Fits all pre-1981 gear drive IH-built Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 106, 108, 122, 124, 126 and 128, except "Quiet Line" models. This is also the replacement bushing for the IH Cub Cadet "Original" clutch disc/pulley. Dimensions: 5/8" i.d. x 7/8" o.d. x 3/4" length. IMPORTANT: To prevent the replacement pilot bushing from wearing, both pressure plates should be resurfaced and trued-up in a metal lathe, and before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply lubricating grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if the bushing is dry, chances are, the driveshaft won't release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing and driveshaft.

High quality aftermarket. $4.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-376265-R2. $6.80 each, plus shipping & handling.

Thin-Wall Bronze Pilot Bushing Insert for installing inside a worn OEM bronze pilot bushing in all pre-1981 gear drive IH Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 106, 108, 122, 124, 126 and 128, except "Quiet Line" models. Can also be used inside the OEM bushing in the IH Cub Cadet "Original" clutch disc/pulley. Dimensions: 5/8" i.d. x 3/4" o.d. x 3/4" length. NOTE: Worn OEM bushing must be precision center-bored to .750" in a metal lathe so this bushing will have a press fit. IMPORTANT: To prevent the replacement pilot bushing from wearing, both pressure plates should be resurfaced and trued-up in a metal lathe, and before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply lubricating grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if the bushing is dry, chances are, the driveshaft won't release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing and driveshaft.

$3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Swivel (Ball-Type) Pilot Bushing for Clutch Drive Plate. Fits certain IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractor models 800, 1000, 1200, 1250, 1450 and 1650. IMPORTANT: To prevent the replacement pilot bushing from wearing, both pressure plates should be resurfaced and trued-up in a metal lathe, and before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply lubricating grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if the bushing is dry, chances are, the driveshaft won't release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing and driveshaft.

OEM Cub Cadet IH-126205-C2. $97.50 each, plus shipping & handling.

OEM Cub Cadet 3-pin Flexible Drive Plates -
Designed for IH-built Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" models 800, 1000, 1200, and 1250, 1450 and 1650 with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment with an ISO-mounted engine (engine mounted on rubber. NOTE: Before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply lubricating grease to inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if it's dry, chances are, the driveshaft won't release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing and driveshaft.

Used and in excellent condition. $80.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
New. OEM Cub Cadet IH-117591-C1. $165.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

3-pin drive plate OEM Cub Cadet 3-pin Solid Drive Plates -
Designed for IH-built Cub Cadet narrow- and wide-frame 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 108, 122, 124, 126 and 128 with the solid mounted engine. These models have a solid mounted engine with no rubber motor mounts. If you want to use either of these plates in a "Quiet Line" ISO-mount tractor (models 800, 1000 and 1200), then a set of my solid motor mounts must also be installed. NOTE: Before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply lubricating grease to inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if it's dry, chances are, the driveshaft won't release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing and driveshaft.

Used and in excellent condition. $60.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
New. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-384652-R12. $174.84 each, plus shipping & handling.

Weld the collars on your OEM IH Cub Cadet drive plate to prevent plate from bending under strain. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this.

$15.00 labor, plus return shipping.

NOTE: Before installing the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply lubricating grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if it's dry, chances are, the driveshaft won't release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing and driveshaft.

Repair your OEM Cub Cadet 3-pin clutch drive plate when the original drive pin collar(s) are broken off.

$30.00 for parts & labor, plus return shipping & handling.

NOTE: Before installing the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply lubricating grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if it's dry, chances are, the driveshaft won't release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing and driveshaft.

Clutch Drive Studs w/Nuts and split lock washers for MTD Cub Cadet 3-pin clutch drive plate or to convert a 3-pin clutch drive plate into a 6 pin clutch driver. Each stud below made of hardened steel.

3/8" diameter x 1-1/2" length (measured from drive plate to end of stud) for single clutch disc (general lawn and garden use or competition pulling). Fabricated A-1 Miller part. Replaces Cub Cadet part # 911-3043. $15.00 set of 3 studs w/nuts and split lock washers, plus shipping & handling.
3/8" diameter x 1-7/8" length (measured from drive plate to end of stud) for double fiber clutch disc clutch setup (competition pulling only). Fabricated A-1 Miller part. $20.00 set of 3 studs w/nuts and split lock washers, plus shipping & handling.
3/8" diameter x 1-1/2" length. OEM MTD-built Cub Cadet Clutch Drive Stud. OEM Cub Cadet part # 911-3043. $42.15 each, plus shipping & handling.

NOTE: Adding three additional clutch drive studs is something that must be performed with precision machining. To install three additional clutch drive studs in the OEM clutch drive plate and have them perfectly aligned with the OEM drive pins and the three extra holes in the clutch disc, and to prevent the pins from being out of balance (out of circle) and to prevent wobble, the holes in the plate (and clutch disc) will need to be drilled using a Super Spacer or Rotary Table that's fastened to the table of a milling machine. Each hole must be drilled precisely at 2.5625" out from dead center and spaced exactly at 90º from the original drive pins. This will allow the 3 extra drive studs (and holes in clutch disc) to be positioned in exact alignment with the OEM pins. Just like the wheel studs on an automobile. If you want, I can professionally install three extra drive studs in your clutch drive plate and drill three extra matching holes in your clutch disc for $45.00 labor, which includes the 3 drive studs, plus return shipping. I will need your clutch drive plate and clutch disc, too.

Repair pilot bushing hole in drive plate that's worn too big for OEM pilot bushing. $25.00 parts and labor, plus return shipping. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller.

Repair work - Convert your OEM 3-pin clutch drive plate into a 6-pin, install 3 hardened steel studs, lock washers, and true-up plate in metal lathe. I will need your clutch drive plate & clutch disc, too. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this service.

$30.00 for parts and labor, plus return shipping & handling.

Clutch Drive Studs w/Nuts and split lock washers for MTD Cub Cadet 3-pin clutch drive plate or to convert a 3-pin clutch drive plate into a 6 pin clutch driver. Each stud below made of hardened steel.

3/8" diameter x 1-1/2" length (measured from drive plate to end of stud) for single clutch disc (general lawn and garden use or competition pulling). Fabricated A-1 Miller part. Replaces Cub Cadet part # 911-3043. $15.00 set of 3 studs w/nuts and split lock washers, plus shipping & handling.
3/8" diameter x 1-7/8" length (measured from drive plate to end of stud) for double fiber clutch disc clutch setup (competition pulling only). Fabricated A-1 Miller part. $20.00 set of 3 studs w/nuts and split lock washers, plus shipping & handling.
3/8" diameter x 1-1/2" length. OEM MTD-built Cub Cadet Clutch Drive Stud. OEM Cub Cadet part # 911-3043. $42.15 each, plus shipping & handling.

NOTE: Adding three additional clutch drive studs is something that must be performed with precision machining. To install three additional clutch drive studs in the OEM clutch drive plate and have them perfectly aligned with the OEM drive pins and the three extra holes in the clutch disc, and to prevent the pins from being out of balance (out of circle) and to prevent wobble, the holes in the plate (and clutch disc) will need to be drilled using a Super Spacer or Rotary Table that's fastened to the table of a milling machine. Each hole must be drilled precisely at 2.5625" out from dead center and spaced exactly at 90º from the original drive pins. This will allow the 3 extra drive studs (and holes in clutch disc) to be positioned in exact alignment with the OEM pins. Just like the wheel studs on an automobile. If you want, I can professionally install three extra drive studs in your clutch drive plate and drill three extra matching holes in your clutch disc for $45.00 labor, which includes the 3 drive studs, plus return shipping. I will need your clutch drive plate and clutch disc, too.

Convert your OEM MTD Cub Cadet clutch drive plate from 3-stud to 6-pin. True-up plate in metal lathe and install 3 additional hardened steel studs, lock washers and nuts. NOTE: Clutch disc must be precision-drilled with 3 extra holes to accept the 3 additional drive studs. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this service.

$30.00 for parts and labor, plus return shipping & handling.

Clutch Drive Studs w/Nuts and split lock washers for MTD Cub Cadet 3-pin clutch drive plate or to convert a 3-pin clutch drive plate into a 6 pin clutch driver. Each stud below made of hardened steel.

3/8" diameter x 1-1/2" length (measured from drive plate to end of stud) for single clutch disc (general lawn and garden use or competition pulling). Fabricated A-1 Miller part. Replaces Cub Cadet part # 911-3043. $15.00 set of 3 studs w/nuts and split lock washers, plus shipping & handling.
3/8" diameter x 1-7/8" length (measured from drive plate to end of stud) for double fiber clutch disc clutch setup (competition pulling only). Fabricated A-1 Miller part. $20.00 set of 3 studs w/nuts and split lock washers, plus shipping & handling.
3/8" diameter x 1-1/2" length. OEM MTD-built Cub Cadet Clutch Drive Stud. OEM Cub Cadet part # 911-3043. $42.15 each, plus shipping & handling.

NOTE: Adding three additional clutch drive studs is something that must be performed with precision machining. To install three additional clutch drive studs in the OEM clutch drive plate and have them perfectly aligned with the OEM drive pins and the three extra holes in the clutch disc, and to prevent the pins from being out of balance (out of circle) and to prevent wobble, the holes in the plate (and clutch disc) will need to be drilled using a Super Spacer or Rotary Table that's fastened to the table of a milling machine. Each hole must be drilled precisely at 2.5625" out from dead center and spaced exactly at 90º from the original drive pins. This will allow the 3 extra drive studs (and holes in clutch disc) to be positioned in exact alignment with the OEM pins. Just like the wheel studs on an automobile. If you want, I can professionally install three extra drive studs in your clutch drive plate and drill three extra matching holes in your clutch disc for $45.00 labor, which includes the 3 drive studs, plus return shipping. I will need your clutch drive plate and clutch disc, too.

Heavy Duty, All Steel Clutch Drive Plates!
Available with 3 or 6 drive studs. Plate made of 3/16" thickness steel. Heavy duty, 1/3 thicker and 80% stronger than OEM drive plates; recommended for pulling tractors running unlimited RPM using a single or a double-disc clutch setup. These are a direct replacement for all Cub Cadet narrow frames, and models 86, 108 and 128 wide frames. This heavy duty drive plate will work in the MTD-built Cub Cadets too, because the MTD drive plate is dished and the IH-made drive plate is flat, but it has the raised collars, making each have the same height. And when used in Cub Cadet models 800, 1000 or 1200, solid motor mounts must be installed also. Precision made, high quality drive plates come with a new bronze pilot bushing and grade 8 drive studs. Weighs under 2 lbs.

3-pin. $55.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
6-pin. $65.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
When placing order, please specify if you need 3 or 6 studs installed. And when using the 6-pin drive plate, three additional holes must be drilled in the clutch disc(s) to match the location of the six drive studs.

NOTE: Before installing the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply lubricating grease inside the pilot bushing and on the front of the driveshaft. Because if it's dry, the driveshaft won't release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing and driveshaft. And when using the 6-pin drive plate, three additional holes must be drilled in the clutch disc(s) to match the location of the six drive studs.

Heavy Duty, All Steel PTO-Driven Clutch Drive Plate for when the engine is reversed in a Cub Cadet! An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller.
Fabricated 3 or 6 drive studs, 3/16" plate thickness. Heavy duty, 1/3 thicker and 80% stronger than OEM; recommended for pulling tractors running unlimited RPM using a single or a double-disc clutch setup. When ordering, please specify the diameter for the PTO shaft on the engine. Weighs about 3 lbs.

$80.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

NOTE: Three additional holes must be drilled in the clutch discs to match the location of the six drive studs.
These precision made, high quality drive plates come with a new bronze pilot bushing (you install) and hardened steel drive studs. And a 3/4" hole MUST be drilled into end of crankshaft for pilot bushing. And before installing the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply lubricating grease inside the pilot bushing and on the front of the driveshaft. Because if it's dry, the driveshaft won't release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing and driveshaft. And when using the 6-pin drive plate, three additional holes must be drilled in the clutch disc(s) to match the location of the six drive studs.

Extra Thick Flywheel / Aluminum Hub Adapter Retaining Washers. A must to secure flywheel and prevent OEM Cub Cadet or billet aluminum hub adapter breakage. Each made of steel and measures approximately 1/4" thick x 1-1/4" o.d.

Washers with 13/32" center hole. To be used with a crankshaft that has a 3/8" bolt, and/or aluminum hub adapter that has a 3/8" center hole.

A-1 Miller part. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
OEM Kohler part # 12 468 03-S. $3.80 each, plus shipping & handling.

Washer with 5/8" center hole. To be used with a crankshaft that has a 5/8" stud, and/or aluminum hub adapter that has a 5/8" center hole. A-1 Miller part. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # X-25-104. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Washer with 3/4" center hole. To be used with a crankshaft that has a 3/4" stud, and/or aluminum hub adapter that has a 3/4" center hole. A-1 Miller part. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # X-25-71. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Step Washer. Use to center cast aluminum or billet hub adapter with a 5/8" hole to a crankshaft with the 3/8" bolt on later model Kohler K-series and all Magnum engines. A must to prevent severe wobble/vibration and prevent hub and/or driveshaft/clutch breakage. Dimensions: 3/8" i.d. x 5/8" o.d. step x approximately 1-1/4" overall o.d. x 1/2" overall height. Professionally machined by Brian Miller.

$12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Cub Cadet hub adapters with 5/8" center hole (early K-series), w/pulley, w/dowel pin.

Used and in excellent condition. OEM Kohler part # 41 071 03-S. $60.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
New. OEM Kohler part # 41 071 03-S. $90.73 each, plus shipping & handling.
New. OEM Cub Cadet part # KH-41-071-03. $116.30 each, plus shipping & handling.
New. OEM Cub Cadet part # 759-3287. $204.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Cub Cadet hub adapters with 5/8" center hole (early K-series), w/o pulley, w/dowel pin.

Used and in excellent condition. Discontinued from Kohler. OEM Kohler part # 41 071 05-S. $60.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
New. OEM Cub Cadet part # KH-41-071-05. $204.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Cub Cadet hub adapters with 3/8" center hole (later K-series, all KT-series and Magnum), w/o pulley, w/dowel pin.

Used and in excellent condition. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
New. OEM Kohler part # 52 755 61-S. $115.55 each, plus shipping & handling.

1/4" diameter x 3/4" length hardened steel dowel pin for OEM and billet aluminum hub adapters. Secures aluminum hub to flywheel to prevent slippage. Replaces Cub Cadet part # KH-X-56-7 and Kohler part # X-56-7. $1.50 each, plus shipping & handling.

Flywheel grass/safety steel screen for use in IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractors with Kohler engine models K161 and K181. 5-9/16" diameter.

New Old Stock or Used and in excellent condition. Discontinued from Kohler. OEM Kohler part # 231819-S. $20.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Flywheel grass/safety steel screen for use in IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractors with Kohler engine models K241 and K301. 7" diameter.

Used and in excellent condition. $120.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
New. OEM Cub Cadet part # KH-235190 and OEM Kohler part # 235190-S. $240.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Resurfacing and Truing Up Worn and Warped Pressure Plates -

For any clutch disc to adhere or grip well and to prevent slippage, both pressure plates must be resurfaced until they're perfectly flat in a metal lathe. (IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable using a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist with a lathe.) The outer edge should be trued-up too, to prevent wobble, which can cause the pilot bushing to wear excessively. For a used clutch assembly, chances are, the fiber clutch disc is worn to match the wear on the pressure plates. If the clutch disc is worn, but still reusable, it can be resurfaced until perfectly flat in the lathe as well. For best clutch adhesion and to lessen the chance of slippage, the clutch-to-pressure plates surface contact areas must be flat against flat for 100% contact. Because new OEM Cub Cadet pressure plates are made of stamped steel and are not machined whatsoever. This means they are not perfectly flat and they wobble from the factory. If used pressure plates have not been resurfaced before, then chances are, they'll still be thick enough after being resurfaced. Always remove the minimal amount of metal to retain maximum thickness so they will not warp when hot.

NOTE: Before reassembling the clutch assembly, apply a thin coat of lubricating grease on the area of the driveshaft where the throw-out bearing and where the rear pressure plate slides back and forth. The grease will assure full clutch disengagement, lessen wear to the driveshaft, and it will prevent the rear pressure plate from sticking to the driveshaft due to rust if the tractor is stored in a damp environment. Also, while the rear pressure plate is off the driveshaft, to prevent it from binding on the 2^nd spiral pin, which can prevent the clutch from disengaging, widen the slot slightly with a flat file or on the edge of the blade on a chopsaw. (Be sure to wear safety glasses!) And it'll be a good idea to drill a small hole near the center of the rear pressure plate to relieve the air that can get trapped between the pressure plates.

Warped pressure plates will allow a single or even double clutches to slip. They warp due to overheating and normal wear. When they get warped, they don't have full contact with the entire surface of the clutch disc. Whenever a new clutch disc is installed, rather if it's an OEM one or made of aluminum, the pressure plates should always be resurfaced until perfectly flat and trued up in a metal lathe. (IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable using a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist with a lathe.) New OEM Cub Cadet pressure plates are stamped in a press and not machined in a lathe. This means they're not as flat or turn as true as ones that's been machined in a lathe. Therefore, if new or used pressure plates are going to be used for pulling or heavy lawn and garden use, have the outer edge trued up and have the clutch contact area resurfaced until perfectly flat in a metal lathe. Because new OEM Cub Cadet pressure plates are made of stamped steel and are not machined whatsoever. This means they are not perfectly flat and they wobble from the factory. If used pressure plates have not been resurfaced before, then chances are, they'll still be thick enough after being resurfaced. Always remove the minimal amount of metal to retain maximum thickness so they will not warp when hot.

The OEM Cub Cadet pressure plates are 3/16" (.188") thick. On the average, approximately .005" of metal is removed from the face of each pressure plate after it has been resurfaced until perfectly flat. Removing this much metal won't weaken the plates whatsoever, even when used with a very stout pressure spring.

With both pressure plates properly resurfaced until perfectly flat, the single OEM fiber clutch, with 4-1/2" diameter pressure plates, has a total disc to plate contact area of 17.7 square inches. When doubled (as in double clutches including the 4-1/2" diameter center drive plate), it has a total contact area of 36 square inches. This is why double clutches hold so well in pulling. It's the same as using a bigger clutch that has more contact area. And double-clutches will have even more contact area with 4-5/8" diameter pressure plates!

The aluminum disc on the other hand (as described in this web site), has a total contact area of 29.8 square inches. You may look at this disc and ask, "where's the friction material?" Well, the aluminum itself is the friction material. A single aluminum disc will adhere to (grip) steel a lot better than a single fiber clutch disc. Both of these type of clutches (the single aluminum and double fiber clutch disc), when used with a high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring, has been proven to hold very well in pulling. If everything is machined, precision balanced, installed and adjusted correctly, the aluminum or double-disc clutch system including the driveshaft could possibly last the life of the tractor. Even when used in high-performance conditions.

IMPORTANT: To ensure true flatness when resurfacing pressure plates, use a lathe that's in good condition with very little wear on the ways!

Save the Hubs!

If the discs in your pressure plates are heavily rusted, worn too thin or warped badly and resurfacing them in a lathe didn't do any good, instead of making two entirely new pressure plates, what could be done is remove the center hub from each disc with a hydraulic press and reuse the hubs to make two new pressure plates. This would save from having to fabricate a couple of new hubs.

If the center hole in the slotted hub of the rear [sliding] pressure plate is worn oblong (rare), the hole can be repaired by boring it true in a metal lathe, and a steel sleeve bushing will need to be pressed in and welded in to prevent it from coming loose, and the hole in the bushing will need to be center-bored to .626". The slot will need to be carefully ground out in the bushing to match the slot in the hub using the blade in an electric chop saw with a metal cut-off wheel. Finally, the face of the pressure plate can be resurfaced and trued-up in the metal lathe. (Remember to wear safety glasses!) (IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable using a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist with a lathe.)

Use distilled white vinegar to remove rust from inside gas tanks, tools, bolts/nuts, clutch pressure plates or virtually any steel or cast iron part: vinegar rust removal - YouTube.

Use ALUMINUM as Clutch Disc Material!

If a single fiber clutch disc slips in a stock pulling tractor, then what is required to prevent clutch slippage is to install a single piece of machined aluminum to serve as a clutch disc. With resurfaced pressure plates and a high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring, aluminum should grip and hold up well when used in a stock garden pulling tractor. By the way, the OEM sandwiched steel fiber clutch disc and an aluminum clutch disc weighs almost the same; about 10.6 ounces each.

The aluminum clutch disc works best for low RPM stock engines. I use the aluminum clutch disc in our stock pulling tractors and the double OEM-fiber clutches in our higher horsepower tractors. I haven't had any problems with either clutches for several years.

If a single, lightweight aluminum clutch disc is used, there's no need to install three extra studs in the 3-pin drive plate (see below Ê ). But definitely have both pressure plates resurfaced until perfectly flat as described above È . Depending on the size of engine and weight of tractor, the aluminum clutch disc require a tougher driveshaft along with a high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring. And it'll be a good idea to install a center support bearing (pillow block bearing and support brace) to prevent the driveshaft from wobbling at 4,000 RPM. Also, if the pressure plates are properly resurfaced until perfectly flat and if aluminum is used, the aluminum won't excessively wear or melt onto them.

IMPORTANT! The biggest mistake a puller can make when launching a tractor is letting the clutch out all of a sudden with the engine revved up. So when using aluminum as a clutch disc (or any metallic clutch material), and when the tractor is hooked to the sled, always remember to "slip" the clutch upon take-off. To do this, first rev up the engine (a lot), then slowly ease out on the clutch pedal. Because an aluminum clutch disc may not "slip" at low RPM, and because aluminum adheres to steel very well when under pressure, if the pedal is let out all of a sudden with the engine revved up, and if the tires don't spin, something could break or get damaged in the drive train or transaxle. The 5/8" zinc-plated steel split lock washer that's placed between the pressure plates will aide greatly in smooth clutch engagement/release and it lessens the possibility of the clutch from "grabbing" upon take-off.

How to Make a Fiber or an Aluminum Clutch Disc Engage Smoothly -

The OEM Cub Cadet cushion spring (as it is called in the early/narrow frame Cub Cadets) or teasing spring (as it is called in the later models/wide and spread frame Cub Cadets) goes between the rear pressure plate and clutch release/throw-out bearing. It's purpose is to allow the rear pressure plate to gently press against the clutch disc as the clutch is engaged without having a "jerky" clutch. When using an aluminum clutch disc, the teasing spring can be replaced with a steel spacer or a stack of small outside diameter flat washers (the ones that originally comes on Cub Cadet driveshafts) and an ordinary, zinc-plated steel split lock washer. Install the lock washer between the pressure plates (dead center of the clutch disc) for a smoother clutch engagement. Clutch slippage may result if used with the OEM Cub Cadet clutch pressure spring. Therefore, the aluminum clutch disc should be used with a stiffer-than-stock pressure spring, such as the high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring.

For the narrow-frame Cub Cadets, the steel spacer needs to be 3/8" in length. (The teasing spring is compressed to 3/8" when the clutch is fully engaged.) And for Cub Cadet models 86, 108, 128, 800, 1000, 1200 and 1535, the spacer needs to 5/8" length or use the OEM protective cup/spacer (for the teasing) that originally comes on the driveshaft, but leave the teasing spring out. By the way - the small end of the protective cup/spacer goes against the clutch release/throw-out bearing. If a too long of a spacer or the protective spacer/cup is used in a narrow frame model, the clutch release/throw-out bearing would set too far back on the driveshaft and when the brake/clutch pedal is depressed, the release lever will make contact with the steering box and the clutch will not be able to release.

To prevent the teasing spring from possibly breaking and to help the clutch(es) to engage more smoothly, simply don't use the teasing spring. Instead, replace where the teasing spring goes on the driveshaft with a piece of heavy wall round steel tubing that measures 7/8" o.d. x 3/8" (narrow frame) or 5/8" (wide frame) long x 41/64" i.d. Then install an ordinary zinc-plated 5/8" i.d. split lock washer between the pressure plates, dead center of the clutch disc. Use two zinc-plated steel split lock washers (one for each clutch disc) if using double clutches. Lock washers have a spring-like action too, plus they'll last a lot longer than a teasing spring.

The lock washer does two things - it acts like a spring, which forces the pressure plates apart, it provides smooth clutch engagement and it'll help to prevent the possibility of the clutch disc from "grabbing" upon take-off. In addition, the spring-like action of the lock washer will expand the pressure plates when the clutch/brake pedal is fully depressed so they will release from the clutch disc. Doing this will guarantee that the clutch will engage smoothly and release every time. So when reassembling a clutch assembly, don't install the teasing spring. Instead, install the spacer and lock washer as described above È. You'll be glad you did.

Or for a bullet-proof teasing spring setup, and/or if the aluminum clutch disc doesn't engage smoothly, instead of using the 5/8" lock washer between the pressure plates and the teasing spring or a steel spacer, install a flat washer, the 5/8" lock washer, then another flat washer until they all total to about 3/8" or 5/8" in height with the lock washer fully uncompressed.

The correct order of installing Cub Cadet clutch parts on the driveshaft is listed below Ê. NOTE: Before reassembling the clutch assembly, apply a thin coat of lubricating grease on the area of the driveshaft where the throw-out bearing and where the rear pressure plate slides back and forth. The grease will assure full clutch disengagement, lessen wear to the driveshaft, and it will prevent the rear pressure plate from sticking to the driveshaft due to rust if the tractor is stored in a damp environment. Also, while the rear pressure plate is off the driveshaft, to prevent it from binding on the 2^nd spiral pin, which can prevent the clutch from disengaging, widen the slot slightly with a flat file or on the edge of the blade on a chopsaw. (Be sure to wear safety glasses!) And it'll be a good idea to drill a small hole near the center of the rear pressure plate to relieve the air that can get trapped between the pressure plates.

1. Install 3^rdspiral pin then the main pressure spring.
2. Install clutch release/throw-out bearing (small end facing forward of tractor).
3. Install release lever .
4. Install protective spacer/cup (small end goes against clutch release/throw-out bearing).
5. Install teasing spring or steel spacer. 6. Compress the pressure spring and install the 2^nd spiral pin.
7. Install pressure plate w/slotted hub.
8. Install zinc-plated steel split lock washer (use only with very stiff pressure spring).
9. Install clutch disc.
10. Install pressure plate w/solid hub, then the 1^stspiral pin.

How to Replace a Broken Teasing Spring on a Cub Cadet Driveshaft (with the driveshaft in the tractor) - (Added 8/28/17)

Lock (depress) the brake/clutch pedal down with the lever against the pedal stop, which is a small angled steel spot-welded to the tractor frame.
Remove the engine from the tractor.
Place a heavy flat bar across the tractor frame to support the very end of the driveshaft. This so the spiral pins for the pressure plates can be removed.
Use a 1/4" roll pin punch to drive out the spiral pin from the front pressure plate.
Remove the heavy flat bar and remove both pressure plates along with the clutch disc from the driveshaft
Place the heavy flat bar across the frame (again), and drive out the second spiral pin from the driveshaft.
Remove the heavy flat bar and the teasing spring can be removed.
Before installing the new teasing spring, apply a thin coat of lubricating grease on the driveshaft. The grease will assure full clutch disengagement, lessen wear to the driveshaft, and it will prevent the rear pressure plate from sticking to the driveshaft due to rust if the tractor is stored in a damp environment.
Reinstall the teasing spring and everything else on the driveshaft in reverse order of removal.
When everything is back on the driveshaft, apply a thin coat of lubricating grease inside the pilot bushing, and reinstall the engine in the tractor and unlock the brake/clutch pedal from the pedal stop.
The clearance between the clutch release/throw-out bearing and clutch release lever will need to be adjusted by turning the self-locking nut on the lower threaded clutch release rod one way or the other until about 9/32" of clearance is obtained between the brake/clutch pedal stop. This allows about .050" or 1/16" of clearance between the clutch release/throw-out bearing and clutch release lever. Be sure the pedal return spring is installed, too.

To disassemble the clutch components from the driveshaft, this is how I do it:

In a large bench vise, remove the spiral pin in the front pressure plate.
Remove from vise and slide off both pressure plates and clutch disc.
Firmly clamp the front of the driveshaft in the vise, and with a 3-4 lb. hammer, drive the driveshaft forward from the rear to release pressure off the teasing spring.
Drive out the teasing spring.
Carefully remove the driveshaft from the vise because the pressure spring is under a lot of tension.
Now everything can be removed from the driveshaft.

IMPORTANT! For safety, a hydraulic press should be used to compress the large pressure spring on the driveshaft to reassemble the clutch components!

Apply a light coat of lubricating grease where the clutch release/throw-out bearing slides back and forth on the driveshaft. The grease will assure full clutch disengagement, lessen wear to the driveshaft, and it will prevent the rear pressure plate from sticking to the driveshaft due to rust if the tractor is stored in a damp environment.
Install the pressure spring, clutch release/throw-out bearing (the protruding part of the clutch release/throw-out bearing, the part that sticks out, faces forward in the tractor), clutch release lever and teasing spring or steel spacer (optional) on the driveshaft, and place the driveshaft in the hydraulic press with the front facing down.
Apply pressure on the rear of the driveshaft until the second spiral pin hole clears the teasing spring, then slide a 1/4" bolt in the hole, then release the pressure on the driveshaft.
Remove the driveshaft from the press and firmly clamp the front of the driveshaft in the vise, and with the 3-4 lb. hammer, drive the driveshaft forward from the rear so the 1/4" bolt can be removed.
Install a 1/4" spiral pin in the second spiral pin hole.
Remove the driveshaft from the vise.
Install the rear pressure plate, 5/8" zinc-plated steel split lock washer (optional), clutch disc and front pressure plate.
Again, firmly clamp the front of the driveshaft in the vise, and with the 3-4 lb. hammer, drive the driveshaft forward from the rear so the first spiral pin hole is aligned with the hole in the front pressure plate.
Install the spiral pin.
The clutch assembly is now completely reassembled.

To test how well the clutch will release out of the tractor, place the clutch assembly in the hydraulic press with each end of the release lever on a couple of blocks, and apply slight downward pressure on the end of the driveshaft. The clutch disc should rotate or "move around" freely without binding. If the disc doesn't rotate or binds, redo your work to find out what went wrong.

How to Fix a "Sticking" Cub Cadet Clutch (when it will not release) -

Before reassembling the clutch assembly, apply a thin coat of lubricating grease on the area of the driveshaft where the throw-out bearing and where the rear pressure plate slides back and forth. The grease will assure full clutch disengagement, lessen wear to the driveshaft, and it will prevent the rear pressure plate from sticking to the driveshaft due to rust if the tractor is stored in a damp environment. Also, while the rear pressure plate is off the driveshaft, to prevent it from binding on the 2^nd spiral pin, which can prevent the clutch from disengaging, widen the slot slightly with a flat file or on the edge of the blade on a chopsaw. (Be sure to wear safety glasses!) And it'll be a good idea to drill a small hole near the center of the rear pressure plate to relieve the air that can get trapped between the pressure plates.

The Much Over-Looked Clutch Release Lever Clevis Pin -

If the straight 3/8" diameter OEM Cub Cadet clevis pin that goes through the clutch hanger bracket and release lever is worn, this part should be replaced with an angled or L-shaped pivot pin. As the engine runs with the clutch fully engaged (foot off the clutch pedal, of course), due to normal engine vibration and slight out-of-balance rotating clutch parts, the OEM round pin continually spins, causing the pin itself and the holes in the hanger bracket to wear. The holes in the release lever rarely wear because the entire lever is made of hardened, heat-treated steel. By replacing the round pin with an angled pin (with the short end long enough to make contact with the tractor frame or hanger bracket), it can't spin. Therefore, there'll be much less wear on the pin and holes, the clutch release/throw-out bearing will last longer, there'll be less noise coming from the clutch parts, clutch operation will be smoother, and clutch adjustment will remain the same for a longer time. (I think the engineers at IH Cub Cadet should have originally installed an angled pin in their tractors. But then again, they probably didn't plan on their tractors being in use 40-50 years later.)

How to Save a Used Clutch Release/Throw-Out Bearing - An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this.

Throw-Out / Clutch Release Bearing If a used clutch release/throw-out bearing is still pretty much "tight," but sounds noisy or "rattles" when you spin it by hand, it could be saved from further wear by pumping it full of lubricating grease. The same can be done to a new bearing to ensure that it will last a long time. (I've done this many times when I rebuild clutch assemblies and have never had one complaint!) The fresh grease will help keep the balls within the bearing well-lubricated and cool, preventing them from further wear. But if the bearing is badly worn or if you're in doubt about doing this, then perhaps install a new one. (Cub Cadet part # 741-3056)

IMPORTANT! When assembling the clutch components, never install the clutch release/throw-out bearing on the driveshaft backwards! Install it with the collar (the center part that sticks out) towards the clutch disc.

How To Save A Used clutch release/throw-out bearing:

Drill a 3/32" hole in the grease/dust seal on the back side of the bearing.
Wash the entire bearing with either electrical contact cleaner, brake parts cleaner, cleaning solvent or paint thinner until the rollers are free of the drill cuttings and debris on the inside. It's clean when the sound changes when it's spun by hand and when it spins more freely.
Use [150± psi] compressed air to blow-dry the entire bearing, including the inside. But don't spin the bearing with the air! Doing this could further damage the bearing!
Using either a needle grease injector (resembles a hypodermic syringe that attaches to an automotive grease gun) or a chainsaw bar tip grease gun, pump the bearing through the drilled hole until it's full of lubricating grease. Rotate the bearing 180º and pump it again. It's full when the grease starts to ooze out of the dust seals.
Thoroughly wipe the grease from around the hole with a clean rag and apply a dab of clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant over the hole.
When reinstalling the clutch release/throw-out bearing, remember that the protruding part, the part that sticks out, faces forward in the tractor.
And do not "ride the clutch"! Take your foot off the clutch pedal when the tractor is in motion.

The same procedure above È can be done to many types of used precision, high-speed sealed roller bearings, besides just clutch release/throw-out bearings. And for anyone who's ever wondered about this, when the clutch/brake pedal is fully depressed, the clutch release/throw-out bearing moves back 3/8" on the driveshaft.

The Clutch Pedal Return Spring and Maintaining Proper Clutch Adjustment -

IMPORTANT! Install the clutch pedal return spring to prevent from wearing both the clutch release/throw-out bearing and release lever. Don't just install a cotter pin in place of it. A pedal return spring is a short, very stiff, expansion spring with a hook on each end. The size is approximately 3/4" diameter x 2-1/8" in overall length. And do not "ride the clutch"! Take your foot off the clutch pedal when the tractor is in motion.

The return spring connects from the hole in the end of the clutch adjustment/release rod to a hole in the cross member that's in the tractor's frame. Install one end of the spring in the linkage first, then install the other end in the cross member. NOTE: It may be difficult to get the end of the spring in the hole because of the tension, but it can be done and it MUST be done. (I do it all the time with our muscles, Vise Grips and a little leverage from our trusty small pry bar.)

There are no adjustments for the pedal return spring. It's job is to prevent the release lever from making connect with a clutch release/throw-out bearing when the clutch pedal is fully disengaged. The pedal return spring attaches from the clutch adjustment/release rod that runs from the release lever back to the bell crank that's on the clutch/brake pedal shaft. This shaft goes crossways through the frame of the tractor. It is very important that the tractor have a pedal return spring to prevent wearing of the clutch release/throw-out bearing against the release lever (it will wear, too) while the clutch pedal is fully disengaged and the tractor is in operation.

If a pedal return spring is not installed or if the operator "rides the clutch" when pulling or when the tractor is in operation (keeping one's foot on the clutch pedal at all times), this will cause the clutch release/throw-out bearing to spin the same speed as the engine, wearing it out prematurely. This will also wear the release lever as well. So making the proper adjustment and not "riding the clutch" will help the clutch release/throw-out bearing last a very long time. The return spring connects from the hole in the end of the clutch adjustment/release rod to a hole in the cross member in the tractor's frame. NOTE: It may be somewhat difficult to get the end of the spring in the hole because of the tension, but it can be done, and it must be done. (I do it all the time with our Vise Grips and a little leverage from our trusty small pry bar.)

How to Set the Correct Cub Cadet Drive Clutch Adjustment -

When the clutch/brake pedal is fully disengaged (not depressed), no part of the clutch release/throw-out bearing is supposed to make contact with the clutch release lever. Otherwise, the clutch release/throw-out bearing will turn the same RPM as the engine. If these continually make contact with the engine running and while the tractor is in motion, the driveshaft will continually spin the throw-out bearing, causing it to overheat and eventually burn-out, and the contact area on the release lever will likely to wear excessively. The excessive heat from the overheated throw-out bearing could travel into and weaken (damage) the front end of the main pressure spring too, making it place less pressure against the clutch disc. This will occur with ordinary lawn and garden, and competition pulling tractors alike. Therefore, to determine the proper clearance and adjust for the "safe" distance between the throw-out bearing and release lever, with the clutch/brake pedal fully disengaged (not depressed) and the clutch/brake pedal arm against the pedal stop, which is a small angled steel spot-welded to the tractor frame, and with a pedal return spring installed, adjust the self-locking nut on the L-shaped clutch adjustment/release rod (that's on the lower part of the release lever) until there's approximately 9/32" - 5/16" of clearance between the pedal arm and pedal stop. This will allow for .050" - .060" (approximately 1/16") of clearance between the throw-out bearing and release lever.

Use a 9/16" size boxed-in ratcheting wrench to make the clutch adjustment much easier. And an accurate way to check for the correct clearance between the clutch release/throw-out bearing and clutch release lever is to use a 7mm or 5/16" rod or square stock as a thickness gauge. When the self-locking nut on the L-shaped adjustment/release rod is turned clockwise (when facing the front of the tractor), this decreases the clearance, and when the nut is turned counterclockwise, this increases the clearance. Also, if a tractor doesn't already have one, definitely install a pedal return spring (extension spring) of the correct length on the clutch adjustment/release rod to the hole in the cross member that's welded between the frame rails so pressure from the release lever will be taken off the clutch release/throw-out bearing when the clutch/brake pedal is fully disengaged (not depressed) to prevent from premature and excessive wearing of the clutch release/throw-out bearing and/or release lever. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]

Information About the Clutch Main Pressure Spring -

If a light-weight tractor with a governed engine (up to 4,000 RPM) is going to be used for general yard work, it's okay to use the stock OEM Cub Cadet pressure spring with the OEM fiber clutch disc. A good used stock OEM pressure spring and a new OEM spring should measure no less than 6-1/2" in uncompressed length. The maximum length is 7". But the compressed length (on the driveshaft with the clutch pedal fully depressed) is 5". If a spring has been used on a driveshaft with an overheated or burned-out clutch release/throw-out bearing, it's best to replace both. And if the pressure plates have been resurfaced until perfectly flat, but the clutch still slips in the heavier chores, perhaps a high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring may need to be installed. (See below Ê.)

If the tractor stops pulling about halfway down the track, and if the engine is still running, but the tires aren't spinning, then the clutch is slipping. For the pressure plates to grip the clutch disc(s) firmly, the pressure spring must be a very stout one. The Cub Cadet clutch pressure spring has about 250 psi of pressure and will probably not prevent the clutch from slipping in a pulling tractor. Therefore, a high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring works excellent with the OEM clutch disc, aluminum disc or double OEM clutches. The OEM clutch release lever may need to be extended 3" with either of these springs for easier clutch pedal depression.

How to Reinforce the Clutch Release Lever Brace on a Wide and Spread Frame Cub Cadet When Using the Yellow Spring -

Install a piece of 1/8" x 1" x (you'll need to measure the length if the transaxle have been moved rearward) flat steel from the center of the clutch release lever brace back to one of the upper bolts on the front of the transaxle. Use grade 8 bolts so it can be removed later in case of repairs. This is much easier to do on a platform work table. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]

Clutch Assembly That`s Used in the early models

NOTE: When the high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring is used, and for smooth clutch engagement and easy release, the 5/8" split lock washer goes between the pressure plates, and the steel spacer replaces the teasing spring. But when the OEM stock pressure spring is used, leave out the lock washer and use the OEM teasing spring between the clutch release/throw-out bearing and rear pressure plate.

Clutch Assembly That`s Used in the later models

Clutch Assembly That`s Used in the late model

There are 4 steps in Installing a Double-Disc Clutch Setup

Step #1 - "Notch" the Release Lever and Relocate it's Bracket:
There are two options of doing this. Either way you choose to do it, you will need to make room for the extra clutch disc and center drive plate.

Option #1:

Relocate the bracket the release lever is connected to rearward 3/8". Or for a very stiff pressure spring, use a piece of minimum 3/16" thickness angled steel to fasten the bracket onto, and weld the angled steel to the frame. Be sure the angled steel is located 3/8" further back than the original bracket was.
Only on the narrow frame Cub Cadets, cut out the lower part of the clutch release lever so it'll clear the steering box, when the clutch/brake pedal is fully depressed. Also, cut out a place in the frame so the release lever will clear it when the clutch/brake pedal is fully depressed.
Cut 3/8" off the threaded end of the clutch adjustment/release rod. If this is not done, the rod will be too long and interfere with the rear clutch disc.
NOTE: The steel spacer that replaces the teasing spring can't be left out for double clutches because the longer partially threaded studs in the drive plate would hit the release lever when the clutch is engaged.

Option #2:
Instead of relocating the bracket and notching the lever, the engine mounting holes that's in the frame can be welded up, grind the weld flat, and drill new holes exactly 3/8" forward (toward the front of the tractor) from the original holes. You'll also need a longer driveshaft, 3/8" longer to be exact. You'll also need to drill the #1 hole forward 3/8", then drill the other holes same as in the original driveshaft. (Remember to wear safety glasses!)
When using a deep sump oil pan, with the front axle in the stock position and when moving the engine forward, the axle pivot pin would interfere with the pan. For pulling competitively, the front axle would need to be moved as far forward as it'll go for better weight distribution. But if your club's rules don't allow the front axle to be moved forward, then a flat bottom oil pan can be used, then the engine can be moved forward with no problems. Of course, half of the dipper on the connecting rod would need to be cut off, too.
Either the engine can be moved forward or the bracket moved rearward. Either way, one or the other will need to be relocated to accommodate for the extra clutch disc and center plate so the clutch will function properly.

Using a Volkswagen Clutch Assembly in a Cub Cadet -

The third type of clutch that some pullers use is a Volkswagen clutch assembly (starter, flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate and clutch release/throw-out bearing and release lever) adapted to the Kohler crankshaft with a special-made tapered hub adapter. This type of clutch is made for the 1974 Volkswagen's and earlier with the air-cooled engine. They weigh more than the double clutch assembly as described above È (about 22 lbs. lighter, less hub) and they hold extremely well even in a highly modified (50+ c.i.) garden tractor. Also, the Volkswagen flywheel, starter ring gear and clutch assembly require the Volkswagen starter. An adapter that replaces the Kohler-type flywheel must be fastened onto the crankshaft for the Volkswagen flywheel to work. And the starter must be adapted onto the Kohler engine block with a special bracket. The Volkswagen clutch comes in two sizes, 180mm and 200mm, with the 180mm being the choice for garden tractor pulling. This type of starter and clutch assembly is losing popularity with pullers who run the 50+ c.i. garden tractors because of it's excessive [forward] weight.

Improving International Harvester's IH Cub Cadet "Original" Clutch Assembly - Top of page

The first Cub Cadet model made was the International Cub Cadet tractor, better known as the IH Cub Cadet "Original". The reason this particular tractor is called the "Original" because they're the very first Cub Cadet garden tractor that International Harvester produced. That's why most folks nowadays call them the IH Cub Cadet "Original". They didn't have a model number because they were all built basically the same, and they all shared the same parts.

On these tractors, the power is transferred from a small pulley that is on the engine, onto a larger pulley that is on the driveshaft by use of a V belt, which act like a gear reduction. It's approximately a 1.6:1 reduction. This means that engine torque is increased 1.6 times to the driveshaft because the clutch/driveshaft assembly turns 1.6 times slower than the engine. This increases the power of the original 6¼hp into a 10hp engine.

Replacing the Drive V-Belt -

To remove and install the drive belt on an IH Cub Cadet "Original", the entire clutch assembly needs to be removed. After installing the belt and reinstalling the clutch assembly, the belt needs to be tightened by pulling down on the front brace of the clutch assembly (use a pry bar), and tighten the bolts. This is much easier to do on a platform work table.

Convert the V-Belt Drive System to a Chain/Sprocket Drive -

The V-belt on the Cub Cadet "Original" can be converted for use with a chain and sprocket drive. This system works great because there'll no belt to slip or rob the engine of horsepower. To make this possible:

The aluminum hub/pulley (next to the flywheel) will need to replaced with a precision machined hub/sprocket. NOTE: The sprocket diameter can vary to decrease or increase the ground speed of the tractor.
The V-groove as part of the clutch/pulley (on the driveshaft) will need to be machined down to accept a sprocket.
The chain tension can be adjusted the same way the belt is tightened.

Repairing the Drive Clutch -

If the drive clutch holds well, but won't release at times, this means the sliding parts on the driveshaft are dry or the old grease has accumulated dirt and/or has "dried up," causing the parts to bind on the driveshaft.

How to Disassemble and Reassemble the IH Cub Cadet "Original" Clutch Assembly -

Use a big bench vise to disassemble and reassemble the clutch assembly.
Place the front of the driveshaft in the jaws of the vise (with a couple of soft aluminum angled pieces placed in the vice jaws, of course), and tighten down the jaws
Use a 3-4 lb. hammer to drive the driveshaft forward until the first spiral pin can be removed.
Remove the driveshaft from the vise, and slide off the pressure plates and clutch/pulley.
Place the driveshaft in the vise again, and butt the splined piece against the jaws of the vise and remove the pin from the splined piece.
Place a small screwdriver in the front spiral pin hole (so the driveshaft so it won't shoot out of the vise), and carefully loosen the vise to remove it.
Reassembly is the opposite of disassembly.

But if the clutch slips, performing the following should cure the problem:

First, resurface the cast iron pressure plates on a large, flat disc or belt sander until they're perfectly flat. If the clutch discs (which is part of the pulley) aren't worn excessively, they can be sanded flat as well to match the flatness of the pressure plates. Just remove the raised places, no more. But if the fiber material is worn thin or if you have doubts that it won't grip well, then install new clutch facings on the pulley.

If the clutch fiber material "peels off" or comes loose from the pulley, it can be reattached with a high strength adhesive, such as Krazy Glue, Super Glue, Gorilla Glue, etc. FYI - When storing an opened container of Super Glue or liquid threadlock material, store it upright and not laying flat. The [capped] tip will not dry out and clog when stored upright. As soon as the fiber material is adhered on the pulley, place the clutch/pulley assembly between two thick flat steel plates to cover the entire fiber material, then place them in a hydraulic press and apply light pressure to squeeze out any air bubbles that may get trapped so the fiber material will have a stronger bond and lay flat. If a hydraulic press isn't available, then using one of the tires that's on a car or truck will place enough pressure, too. After the glue has dried, lightly sand the fiber material on a large, flat disc or belt sander to ensure true flatness.

For even better clutch adhesion or "holding power," the OEM pressure spring can be replaced with a high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring. Be sure to drill the 3rd hole to 1/4" and install a heavy spiral pin, too! Install a new bronze bushing in the clutch release/throw-out bearing if it's worn. Then lubricate the clutch release/throw-out bearing through the factory-installed grease (Zerk) fitting. Under normal use, the clutch release/throw-out bearing needs to be lubricated once a year.

And as far as I'm aware, new fiber facings for the IH Cub Cadet "Original" clutch is not available from any source. But 6061 aluminum can be used as clutch facings on the IH Cub Cadet "Original" clutch pulley. The dimensions of the fabricated aluminum clutch facings are as follows: 4-1/2" o.d. x 3" i.d. x 1/8" thick. Fasten the aluminum to the pulley with six (for strength) 10-32 UNF x 1/2" length flat head brass screws equally spaced apart on each side. Offset the threaded holes in the pulley so the threads of the screws on one side won't interfere with the screws on the other side. Countersink the heads of the screws into the aluminum with the heads slightly below the surface of the aluminum. Make sure the aluminum is perfectly flat before installing it on the pulley, too. And of course, when using aluminum as clutch material, a stiffer-than-stock pressure spring, such as the high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring, will be required to prevent clutch slippage.

To place an order and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance and support, please contact:

If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; when leaving a voice message, please speak slowly when giving your phone number). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival. E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle, tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we can provide many more parts and services.) Please click here to place an order.

To place an order, please call the number below Ê or send an email with your name, complete and correct postal address and phone number and so I can figure the total with shipping cost and USPS Tracking. For payment options for parts ordered or services performed, or to make a donation to my websites, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge), Western Union Money Transfer, MoneyGram Money Transfers or Popmoney. (If a part for a specific purpose is special ordered, your debit/credit card may be charged for the full amount or as a deposit right after your order is placed; please do not send your debit/credit card information in email!) Or you can pay me through PayPal. (My PayPal account name is my email address. And be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment is for.) If sending a money order, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone number and a description of what the payment is for. My mailing address and phone number are below Ê . I'll make a note of your order, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send the parts to you as soon as I have everything in stock after I receive your payment.

IMPORTANT - When sending your part(s) to me for rebuilding or repair, package everything securely so the item(s) won't get damaged in shipping and please include a note in the box with your name, mailing address, phone number (in case I have any questions) and a description of what you want done. When shipping heavy parts, it's best to put a slightly smaller box inside a larger box, to double the strength and integrity of the package. Because the clumsy "gorillas" or incompetent and uncaring workers that work for certain delivery services mishandle the heavy packages and don't care. And when the work is completed, I'll either call or email you an invoice with the total including shipping & handling.

To figure the shipping cost, I weigh the package with the parts, then I go online to the USPS Postage Rate Calculator website. I type in the weight, my zip code and your zip code, then it shows me the prices for various ways to ship the package. I always choose US Postal Service because I believe that's the most fastest, economical and reliable method.

Shipping: (United States and it's territories)
To save you shipping charges, item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 13 oz. is sent by First Class Mail for a 2-6 day delivery. Most packaged item(s) weighing over 13 oz. is sent by US Priority Mail for a 2-3 day delivery. To save you even more on shipping heavy items, I always try to use the US Postal Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelope and boxes (if the item(s) can fit inside the envelope or boxes). Some heavy items weighing no more than 70 lbs. is sent by US Mail Parcel Post. Item(s) weighing over 70 lbs. is sent by FedEx Ground. Again, if you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally drop off and/or pick up your engine, transaxle, tractor, etc.

We Ship to Canada and Worldwide -
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S. territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground or equivalent services.

We Accept PayPal, Visa, MasterCard, American Express & Discover Credit & Debit Cards
^{(When placing an order through PayPal, please provide a list of which
parts you need.)}

To make a payment to me through PayPal, go to PayPal's secure website ( https://www.paypal.com/ ) and click on Send and Request -> Pay for goods or services. Type in my email address, or copy and paste this: pullingtractor@aol.com, the amount and follow the directions. Be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment is for. After you've finished, PayPal will send me an email notifying me that you have made a payment to me for the product(s) or services and amount entered. Then I go to their website and direct PayPal to deposit the money in my bank account. And I will send the parts to you as soon as I receive your payment. But I may have to order some of the parts if they're not in stock, which should take a few days. In that case, I will send you the parts as soon as they come in. PayPal protects your financial privacy and security. With PayPal, privacy is built in. It's a way for you to pay without exposing their financial information.

Coming Soon - Detailed Illustrated Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back Garden Tractor Pulling Sled, and a Self-Powered Garden Tractor Pulling Sled. FYI - My professionally-built self-powered pulling sled, Track Master (click the picture to the right to see a larger image of my sled), is the only one I've ever built and I got it right the first time, with very few changes that had to be made to it. I guess I'm just one of those kind of guys that knows what he's doing. Pullers really like pulling my sled, too. They say it's the best sled they've ever pulled. (Not bragging, just stating the truth.) By the way - Track Master sled is engineered so well (by Brian Miller), that other sled builders/owners have copied my well thought-out and proven design. Anyway, I have lots of work to do in my shop and I work on the sled plans in my spare time. As soon as my plans with an inventory list of parts to use are perfected, I'll post the update in my websites. Remember - Perfection takes time. If it's worth having, it's worth waiting for. Also, I plan to acquire a bigger shop and I may build high quality garden tractor pulling sleds in the future to offer for sale. Please call me at 573-256-0313 (shop) or 573-881-7229 (cell; when leaving a voice message, please speak slowly when giving your phone number), or email me at pullingtractor@aol.com or pullingtractor@yahoo.com if you're interested. - Brian Miller

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If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises \| 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. \| Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA \| Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) \| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; when leaving a voice message, please speak slowly when giving your phone number). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival. E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. Directions to our shop \| 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle, tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we can provide many more parts and services.) Please click here to place an order.
Fiber Material Clutch Discs for IH- and MTD-built Cub Cadet clutch drive garden tractors. High quality aftermarket clutch disc with 3 drive holes only. Must be used with a 3-pin drive plate. Does not have sandwiched steel center reinforcement, but made of long-lasting material. Suitable for general yard and garden use. Dimensions: 1/4" thickness x drive holes spaced 5-1/8" apart x 3" i.d. x 6" o.d. Replaces Cub Cadet part #'s 961-3002 and 961-3011. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Cub Cadet clutch disc with 3 or 6 drive holes. Can be used with a 3- or 6-pin drive plate. Has sandwiched steel center reinforcement. Very tough and durable; ideal for competition pulling. Dimensions: 1/4" thickness x drive holes spaced 5-1/8" apart x 3" i.d. x 6" o.d. Part # 961-3002. $66.50 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Cub Cadet clutch disc with 3 or 6 drive holes. Can be used with a 3- or 6-pin drive plate. Has sandwiched steel center reinforcement. Very tough and durable; ideal for competition pulling. Dimensions: 1/4" thickness x drive holes spaced 5-1/8" apart x 3" i.d. x 6-3/8" o.d. Part # 961-3011. $64.85 each, plus shipping & handling. [Return To Previous Section, Paragraph or Website] IMPORTANT - It is highly recommended that both pressure plates be trued-up (to reduce vibration) and resurfaced (machined) in a metal lathe to remove warpage until perfectly flat or severe clutch slippage may result! FYI - About 90% of the fiber material in clutch discs will chip off were the holes are due to the following reasons: The fiber material is so hard (for long wear), it's actually brittle and will easily chip off or break when mishandled. Sometimes when installing the engine in the tractor, the fiber material will chip off when sliding the drive pins or studs into the clutch disc. The holes in the fiber material will sometimes chip off and/or wear larger under normal use because the three OEM drive pins or studs place pressure against the holes. When the original three holes wear extremely large, a new hole can be precision-drilled between the original holes and the clutch disc can be reused. Using the OEM Cub Cadet clutch drive plate with three additional drive studs precision-drilled and installed or an aftermarket 6-pin drive plate with a 6-hole clutch disc (three additional holes drilled) will place 50% less pressure and reduce the amount of wear against each hole. The more drive pins or studs the drive plate has, less wear to the holes will result in the clutch disc. The drive plate and clutch disc can have as many as 9 or 12 drive pins and holes.
Teasing Spring and Thrust Washer Kit. Fits all clutch-drive Cub Cadet garden tractors, and Cub Cadet models 1250, 1450 and 1650 equipped with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment. Thrust washer goes between rear pressure plate and teasing spring. The washer prevents end of teasing spring from "catching" in the slot of the rear pressure plate upon clutch engagement. This twists the spring a few thousandths of an inch each time the clutch is engaged, which creates metal fatigue in the spring and could cause it to eventually break, even with the cup/spacer below. (Another factory flaw that happens many years later.) An original, ingenious, thoroughly researched and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertises the use of this washer with the teasing spring. Please accept no other advertised copycat products of this kind. Thrust Washer Only. .050"± thickness. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Teasing Spring Only. OEM Cub Cadet part # 932-3017. $6.20 each, plus shipping & handling. Teasing Spring and Thrust Washer Kit. $7.20 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
Cup/Spacer for Teasing Spring. Made specifically for Cub Cadet garden tractor models 582, 800, 1000, 1200, 1535, 1604, 1606 and 1806. Also fits Cub Cadet models 1250, 1450 and 1650 equipped with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment. NOTE: Do not install this part in a narrow frame Cub Cadet garden tractor! It will position the clutch release/throw-out bearing further back on the driveshaft and not allow the clutch to fully disengage or disengage at all. IMPORTANT: When installing this part on driveshaft, the wide/flared end faces forward and the narrow end goes against the clutch release/throw-out bearing. And do not install this part on a driveshaft that originally did not come with it. It will set the clutch release/throw-out bearing back too far, making correct clutch release/throw-out bearing to release lever clearance adjustment impossible and the brakes may not work. OEM Cub Cadet part # 911-3040. $18.45 each, plus shipping & handling.
Cup/Spacer for Teasing Spring. Fits only Cub Cadet garden tractor model 1050. Comes with installed grease fitting. IMPORTANT: When installing this part on driveshaft, the wide/flared end faces forward and the narrow end goes against the clutch release/throw-out bearing. No longer available from Cub Cadet. Replaces Cub Cadet part # 911-3040. A-1 Miller's fabricated part. $42.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
New Machined Aluminum Clutch Disc with (6) 13/32" drive holes for a 3- or 6-pin drive plate. This is an alternate and direct replacement for the fiber material clutch disc. Made of the highest quality 6061 alloy; medium-grade hardness aluminum available. The 1-1/8" center hole in disc is bored dead center, and the circumference is turned true in my metal lathe, then the 6 drive holes are precision-drilled using my 8" super spacer with a 6-notch masking plate on the table of my milling machine. Unlike some of my competitor's copycat part, the drive holes in my aluminum clutch discs are drilled 13/32" for less clutch disc noise/rattle and less chance of breakage to the drive pins/studs. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else originally advertised this part online. IMPORTANT - It is highly recommended that both pressure plates be trued-up (to reduce vibration) and resurfaced (machined) in a metal lathe to remove warpage until perfectly flat or severe clutch slippage may result! Aluminum Clutch Disc only. Comes with 6 drive holes. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling. 5/8" i.d. Zinc-Plated Steel Split Lock Washer and Steel Spacer. Replaces teasing spring on all Cub Cadet narrow frame clutch drive models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124 and 126. NOTE: Lock washer not for use with OEM Cub Cadet clutch pressure spring. Use lock washer only with high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring. $5.00 per set, plus shipping & handling. Aluminum Clutch Disc Kit. Includes aluminum clutch disc, 5/8" i.d. split lock washer and steel spacer. $30.00 per set, plus shipping & handling. [Return To Previous Section, Paragraph or Website] CUB CADET 124 WORK PART 2 - YouTube
Clutch Disc Anti-Rattle Spring. Reduces noisy fiber or aluminum clutch disc rattle on drive pins/studs. Although one spring may be sufficient to reduce clutch noise, it may be necessary to install three springs (one for each pin/stud) for 100% reduced clutch noise. Can be used on fiber or aluminum clutch discs. NOTE: Recommended for up to 4,000 RPM engines. Not for use on high RPM or wide open throttle competition pulling tractors due to normal engine harmonic vibrations that travels out into the clutch assembly, this can create the possibility of the spring(s) becoming dislodged, which could become a hazardous airborne projectile if clutch is not properly shielded 360º. So if possible, install these springs with the coil between the clutch disc and drive plate, opposite that is shown in the picture to the right, to prevent them from coming off. OEM Cub Cadet part # 932-3018. $3.60 each, plus shipping & handling.