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On the direct-drive Cub Cadet garden tractor, power from the engine is through
the clutch
and
driveshaft
assembly to the
transaxle
and to the rear tires. If the clutch is severely worn or if stock (OEM) parts
may slip and little power or torque will be transferred, especially when
using the tractor for competition pulling (especially with a big engine in
a fast gear), gardening or to haul heavy loads. An engine in a competition
pulling tractor that's built to the max or runs at high RPM or at
wide
open throttle produces a lot more torque than what the engineers at Cub
Cadet originally anticipated for the driveline to handle. Therefore, the
clutch assembly is the weak point (and the
one-piece carrier and coarse spline
axles), and will need to be reinforced and built up for strength for
durability and to prevent slippage. Remember: towards the end of the track,
if the tires don't spin or the engine bogs down, then the clutch will slip
or something elsewhere in the driveline will possibly twist or break.
Types of Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Clutch Assemblies -
An ordinary clutch assembly for general lawn and garden use consist of a
OEM quality steel driveshaft, composite clutch
disc and an OEM pressure spring. But a clutch assembly for heavy lawn
and garden use consist of a heavy duty 3- or 6-pin drive plate, either high
strength steel or stainless steel driveshaft, either a single aftermarket
composite clutch disc or a single
aluminum clutch disc, and definitely a
much stiffer pressure spring for placing a heavier load against the clutch
disc. Also, the OEM Cub Cadet garden tractor pressure plates will definitely
need to be trued-up in a
metal lathe (with a self-centering 3-jaw chuck) so they'll
be perfectly round and resurfaced until perfectly flat for better clutch
adhesion. Because new OEM pressure plates are made of stamped steel and are
not machined whatsoever. This means they are not perfectly flat and they
wobble from the factory when new. If used OEM pressure plates have not been
resurfaced before, then chances are, they'll still be thick enough after
being resurfaced. Always remove the minimal amount of metal to retain maximum
thickness so they will not warp when hot.
(IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable using
a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist with
a lathe.) The same happens to automotive flywheels and pressure
plates as the clutch disc wears. They need to be resurfaced too, when installing
a new clutch disc. And the heavier or stronger the clutch assembly is, the
more it will cost. By the way - if the rotating clutch parts are precision
balanced, installed and adjusted correctly, the OEM Cub Cadet or aftermarket
garden tractor composite clutch disc setup
should last a long time, a lot longer than the popular aftermarket 3 puck
metallic clutch disc.
Cub Cadet made four different 3-pin clutch drive plates. The bolt-circle
pattern for the three clutch disc drive pins/partially threaded studs and
four mounting holes are the same for all drive plates listed below.
-
The first clutch drive plate
is designed for the IH-built narrow- and wide-frame Cub Cadet garden tractor
models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124, 126, 86, 108 and 128
with a solid-mounted engine. It's made of flat, solid/non-flexible, 1/8"
thickness steel, with a bronze bushing (pilot bearing) pressed in the center
to support the driveshaft, and have coiled/spiral
pins to drive the clutch disc. This type of drive plate can also be used
on the Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" rubber ISO-mounted engine garden tractors (listed
below Ê) as long as
solid motor mounts are installed. It's Cub
Cadet part # IH-384652-R12.
-
The second clutch drive plate is designed for the IH-built Cub Cadet "Quiet
Line" rubber ISO-mounted engine garden tractor models 800, 1000 and 1200
(and models 1250, 1450 and 1650 with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment).
It has a flat, thin, flexible, hardened steel center section riveted to a
thicker outer flat plate of steel, and has a self-aligning spherical bronze
pilot bushing, and have coiled/spiral pins to drive
the clutch disc. Due to the engine is mounted on rubber, which allows it
to "move side to side" while in operation, being the OEM Cub Cadet clutch
pressure plates are made of stamped steel, which makes them somewhat oblong
or "egg-shaped" and not machined perfectly round, this causes them to run
out-of-balance, and the thin center section in this drive plate is notorious
for cracking and breaking just after a few years of general lawn and garden
use. The drive holes in the clutch disc will become oblong, too. To prevent
this from happening, both pressure plates should be trued-up (and resurfaced
until perfectly flat for better clutch adhesion) in a
metal lathe to prevent the possibility of breakage for
this type of drive plate. But for competition pulling applications and/or
for heavy duty use, for the clutch parts will last much longer, a set of
A-1 Miller's solid
motor mounts and a solid clutch drive plate should be installed.
The Cub Cadet part number for this flexible drive plate is IH-117591-C1.
-
The third clutch drive plate have four 1/4" holes in addition to two 3/8"
holes in the center. It's designed for the IH-built 582 with a Briggs &
Stratton opposed twin cylinder engine and certain MTD-built Cub Cadet garden
tractor models 580 (disc clutch drive models), 582 (disc clutch drive models),
1050, 1535, 1604 (disc clutch drive models), 1606 (disc clutch drive models)
and 1806. It's made of 1/8" thick concaved (dish-shape) steel, and have a
self-aligning spherical bronze pilot bushing, and have partially threaded
studs with nuts to drive the clutch disc. This drive plate is an improved
design over the previous IH Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" rubber ISO-mounted engine
drive plates because this part is rigid and don't break or crack due to the
engine being mounted on rubber. But due to the dish-shape offset and engine
placement in the tractor, this drive plate can only be used in the IH-built
582 and the MTD-built Cub Cadets. This drive plate is universal, and can
be used in place of the drive place listed below. This part is no longer
available from Cub Cadet.
-
And the fourth clutch drive plate have just two 3/8" holes in the center.
This part only came on Cub Cadet garden tractors with a Briggs & Stratton
opposed twin cylinder engine. This include certain IH- and MTD-built models
580 (disc clutch drive models), 582 (disc clutch drive models), 1050, 1535,
1604 (disc clutch drive models), 1606 (disc clutch drive models) and 1806.
It's Cub Cadet part # 903-0216.
Depending on the class your tractor is going to pull in and engine
size/modifications, there are many variations in which clutch/driveshaft
design and carrier/axles to use. Listed are the weakest to the strongest:
-
For driveshaft material, there's stress proof steel, chromoly steel and stainless
steel.
-
For the clutch drive models, the wide frame driveshaft is exactly 1" longer
than the narrow frames, and the IH-built model 582 (serial number 719999
and below Ê) driveshaft have a blunt
end and 5/8" steel ball that swivels with engine movement (rubber ISO mount)
in the center hole of the input shaft on the transaxle, and MTD-built 582
(serial number 720000 and up) driveshaft is 1/2" longer with a pointed end
that swivels with engine movement in the center hole of the input shaft on
the transaxle.
-
As for the types of clutch setups, there's the single OEM Cub Cadet or
aftermarket garden tractor composite clutch disc
with a stiffer pressure spring, an aluminum
clutch disc, also with a stiffer pressure spring, OEM Cub Cadet or
aftermarket garden tractor clutch disc with a stiffer pressure spring with
a stiffer pressure spring, Volkswagen clutch/pressure plate/flywheel, etc.
-
And as for the carrier and axles, there's the OEM IH-built Cub Cadet garden
tractor heavy duty one-piece carrier with either coarse or fine spline axles,
and the OEM MTD-built Cub Cadet garden tractor two-piece fine spline carrier
and axles, Ford Pinto carrier and axles, Chrysler's 7-1/4" carrier and axles,
and the Ford 8" and 9" carrier and axles, which, with some machine work,
will fit in the Cub Cadet garden tractor cast iron transaxle housing.
Using Quality Driveshaft Material Is Important!
Most driveshafts are likely to
break at the second coiled/spiral pin hole, just in front of the
clutch release/throw-out bearing. Because
that's where the most vibration usually occurs. They also break just behind
the pressure spring, in front of the
pillow block bearing, due to temporary
frame twisting (narrow frames) when pulling. If this happens, it's best to
install a split clamping/locking collar.
What mainly makes the driveshaft break at 4,000+ RPM is either...
-
Poor quality material and/or workmanship.
-
Loosening of engine to oil pan due to
use of an oil pan gasket.
-
Out-of-balance clutch parts and/or out-of-balance rotating engine parts,
which could cause harmonic vibrations
(resonance)
to travel throughout the clutch and driveshaft assembly.
-
Lack of a center support pillow block bearing
and brace installed midway on the driveshaft.
-
Lack of solid motor mounts in a Cub Cadet
"Quiet Line" rubber ISO-mounted engine garden tractor.
-
Lack of 1/4" thick steel engine-stiffener plates installed under tractor
frame to make the engine rigid in a narrow- or wide-frame (solid-mounted
engine models) Cub Cadet garden tractor with front axle is moved forward
to end of frame.
-
Severe flexing of the frame on a narrow frame Cub Cadet garden tractor when
the frame rails are widened and not reinforced to accommodate the larger
9-1/2" flywheel and gear starter.
If quality driveshaft material is used, and if the rotating parts are precision
balanced and if a carrier bearing is also installed (above 4,000 RPM. The
factory setting of maximum RPM for virtually all small gas engines, including
all of Kohler engines is 3,600), the driveshaft could possibly last the life
of the tractor. Even when used in high-performance conditions.
Remember, in the direct-drive Cub Cadet garden tractor, the entire
clutch/driveshaft assembly rotates the same speed as the engine. For reliability
in a highly modified tractor that turns well above 4,000 RPM, the driveshaft
must be made of quality, solid hardened steel that can resist torsional twist.
Such as high strength 1144 stress proof steel, heat-treated 4140 chrome-moly
steel or ultra tough 304 alloy stainless steel.
-
Mild steel (cold rolled; 45,000 P.S.I. strength; about the same as OEM material)
cost the least, and can be safely used in a basic stock tractor with an engine
that's limited to 4,000 RPM or for non-pulling applications. It's obviously
easy to bore holes through.
-
Stress-proof steel is heat-treated, which makes it very strong (95,000 P.S.I.
strength, which is about twice stronger than OEM driveshafts). It'll flex
with slightly out-of-balance rotating parts at high RPM or at
wide
open throttle then return to its original straightness when the speed
is reduced. It's easy to bore holes through.
-
Heat-treated chrome-moly steel is another quality material to use. It comes
in various hardnesses; from 60,000 to 100,000 P.S.I. strength. It's somewhat
easy to bore holes through.
-
304 alloy stainless steel is much more rigid than any of the listed above
È metals (130,000 P.S.I. strength) and
works excellent for use as driveshaft material. It require a little more
effort to bore holes through.
Advertisement: (Prices are subject to change without notice.)
Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises
to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional
and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment
options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or
service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website.
Professionally Rebuilt Fully Assembled and Ready to Install Drive Clutch
Assemblies for IH- and MTD-Built Cub Cadet Garden Tractors listed below.
For general lawn and garden use, heavy towing, pushing snow or
competition pulling. All A-1 Miller's clutch assemblies are build or
rebuilt to give good service and last a long time. A-1 Miller's also offers
rebuilding of the plain stock IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor clutch
assembly, OEM Cub Cadet garden tractor clutch assemblies, and heavy duty
and/or competition garden pulling tractor clutch assemblies! We can rebuild
your clutch assembly however you want it, if you don't mind sending it to
us. Include a note with your contact information, tell us how you're going
to use your tractor and we'll build or rebuild your clutch to suit your needs.
We also offer individual clutch parts for the do-it-yourself rebuilders.
Drive clutch assemblies listed below for narrow and wide, spread frame Cub
Cadet garden tractors for general yard and garden use. Parts include: New
high strength 1144 stress proof steel driveshaft, new
coiled/spiral pins, new aftermarket composite clutch
disc, new aftermarket throw-out bearing, reconditioned release lever, new
main pressure spring, new teasing [compression] spring and protective thrust
washer, and both OEM pressure plates trued-up in a
metal lathe (with a self-centering 3-jaw chuck) so they'll
be perfectly round and resurfaced until perfectly flat for better clutch
adhesion. 3-pin drive plate shown in pictures shown above not included with
clutch assemblies. All clutch purchases do not include the rear coupler or
coupler arms and flex coupler. Purchase these separately, if needed. When
ordering, please state model number of Cub Cadet garden tractor. Core trade-in
must be in rebuildable condition with very few missing or damaged parts.
*The price to build or rebuild your clutch assembly depends on which parts
can be reused and which new parts are installed, and the amount of machining
is required. IMPORTANT: Before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch assembly
in the tractor, apply automotive grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on
the front of the driveshaft. Because if either is dry, chances are, the
driveshaft can bind up in the bushing, the clutch may not release, and cause
severe wear to both the bushing and driveshaft.
Drive Clutch Assemblies for Cub Cadet "Original" Garden Tractor. Priced full
length (without creeper drive) or short length (with creeper drive unit.)
NOTE: Complete driveshaft assembly do not include the driveshaft bearing
support assembly, clutch operating support, clutch shaft bearing retainer
and collar, adjustment rod yoke end, clutch operating rod and transaxle input
shaft coupler arm. And due to supply and demand,
and different lengths and applications, I do not keep complete rebuilt clutch
assemblies in stock. I build them as customers order them.
-
Rebuild YOUR clutch assembly for general lawn and garden use.
$330.00±* each, including parts and labor, plus return shipping
& handling. (When certain rebuild parts are available or in stock.)
-
With rebuildable core trade-in for general lawn and garden use.
$380.00 each, plus return shipping & handling. (When certain
rebuild parts are available or in stock.)
-
Outright with no core trade-in for general lawn and garden use.
$450.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When certain rebuild
parts are available or in stock.)
-
Rebuild YOUR clutch assembly for heavy towing and/or competition pulling.
$580.00±* each, including parts and labor, plus return shipping
& handling. (When certain rebuild parts are available or in stock.)
Drive Clutch Assemblies for Narrow Frame Cub Cadet Garden Tractor models
70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124 and 126. Priced full length
(without creeper drive) or short length (with creeper drive unit.)
And due to supply and demand, and different lengths
and applications, I do not keep complete rebuilt clutch assemblies in stock.
I build them as customers order them.
-
Rebuild YOUR clutch assembly for general lawn and garden use.
$180.00±* each, including parts and labor, plus return shipping
& handling.
-
With rebuildable core trade-in for general lawn and garden use.
$250.00 each, plus return shipping & handling. (When certain
rebuild parts are available or in stock.)
-
Outright with no core trade-in for general lawn and garden use.
$280.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When certain rebuild
parts are available or in stock.)
-
Rebuild YOUR clutch assembly for heavy towing and/or competition pulling.
$330.00±* each, including parts and labor, plus return shipping
& handling.
Drive Clutch Assemblies for Cub Cadet Wide Frame Garden Tractor models 80,
108 and 128. Priced full length (without creeper drive) or short length (with
creeper drive unit.) And due to supply and demand,
and different lengths and applications, I do not keep complete rebuilt clutch
assemblies in stock. I build them as customers order them.
-
Rebuild YOUR clutch assembly for general lawn and garden use.
$200.00±* each, including parts and labor, plus return shipping
& handling.
-
With rebuildable core trade-in for general lawn and garden use.
$270.00 each, plus return shipping & handling. (When certain
rebuild parts are available or in stock.)
-
Outright with no core trade-in for general lawn and garden use.
$300.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When certain rebuild
parts are available or in stock.)
-
Rebuild YOUR clutch assembly for heavy towing and/or competition pulling.
$350.00±* each, including parts and labor, plus return shipping
& handling.
Drive Clutch Assemblies for Cub Cadet Wide Frame Garden Tractor models 800,
1000 and 1200. Priced full length (without creeper drive) or short length
(with creeper drive unit.) And due to supply
and demand, and different lengths and applications, I do not keep complete
rebuilt clutch assemblies in stock. I build them as customers order
them.
-
Rebuild YOUR clutch assembly for general lawn and garden use.
$220.00±* each, including parts and labor, plus return shipping
& handling.
-
With rebuildable core trade-in for general lawn and garden use.
$290.00 each, plus return shipping & handling. (When certain
rebuild parts are available or in stock.)
-
Outright with no core trade-in for general lawn and garden use.
$320.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When certain rebuild
parts are available or in stock.)
-
Rebuild YOUR clutch assembly for heavy towing and/or competition pulling.
$370.00±* each, including parts and labor, plus return shipping
& handling.
Drive Clutch Assemblies for Cub Cadet Spread Frame Garden Tractor models
580, 582, 1250, 1450, 1650 (models with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment),
1604, 1606 and 1806. Priced full length (without creeper drive) or short
length (with creeper drive unit.) And due to
supply and demand, and different lengths and applications, I do not keep
complete rebuilt clutch assemblies in stock. I build them as customers order
them.
-
Rebuild YOUR clutch assembly for general lawn and garden use.
$200.00±* each, including parts and labor, plus return shipping
& handling.
-
With rebuildable core trade-in for general lawn and garden use.
$270.00 each, plus return shipping & handling. (When certain
rebuild parts are available or in stock.)
-
Outright with no core trade-in for general lawn and garden use.
$300.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When certain rebuild
parts are available or in stock.)
-
Rebuild YOUR clutch assembly for heavy towing and/or competition pulling.
$350.00±* each, including parts and labor, plus return shipping
& handling.
Drive Clutch Assemblies to Replace or Convert [to Clutch Drive] Cub Cadet
Spread Frame Garden Tractor models 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682,
782, 782D, 882, 982, 984, 986, 1050, 1202, 1204, 1210, 1282, 1340, 1440,
1512, 1535, 1541, 1572, 1604, 1606, 1641, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1772, 1782, 1806,
1810, 1811, 1812, 1860, 1861, 1862, 1863, 1864, 1872, 1882, 1912, 1914, 2072,
2082, 2086, 2182 and 2284. Priced full length (without creeper drive) or
short length (with creeper drive unit.) 3-pin drive plate, hanger bracket
and adjustment rod/spring to convert a hydrostatic drive into the clutch
drive is extra charge. And due to supply and
demand, and different lengths and applications, I do not keep complete rebuilt
clutch assemblies in stock. I build them as customers order
them.
-
Rebuild YOUR clutch assembly for general lawn and garden use.
$200.00±* each, including parts and labor, plus return shipping
& handling.
-
With rebuildable core trade-in for general lawn and garden use.
$270.00 each, plus return shipping & handling. (When certain
rebuild parts are available or in stock.)
-
Outright with no core trade-in for general lawn and garden use.
$300.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When certain rebuild
parts are available or in stock.)
-
Rebuild YOUR clutch assembly for heavy towing and/or competition pulling.
$350.00±* each, including parts and labor, plus return shipping
& handling.
Drive Clutch Assembly for Cub Cadet Spread Frame Garden Tractor model 1050.
Priced full length (without creeper drive) or short length (with creeper
drive unit.) And due to supply and demand, and
different lengths and applications, I do not keep complete rebuilt clutch
assemblies in stock. I build them as customers order them.
-
Rebuild YOUR clutch assembly for general lawn and garden use.
$250.00±* each, including parts and labor, plus return shipping
& handling.
-
With rebuildable core trade-in for general lawn and garden use.
$320.00 each, plus return shipping & handling. (When certain
rebuild parts are available or in stock.)
-
Outright with no core trade-in for general lawn and garden use.
$350.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When certain rebuild
parts are available or in stock.)
-
Rebuild YOUR clutch assembly for heavy towing and/or competition pulling.
$400.00±* each, including parts and labor, plus return shipping
& handling.
|
Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for
FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support
and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or
parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this
website. | [Top of Page] |
A-1
Miller's Professional Drive Clutch Assembly Rebuild Service for
MTD Farm King garden tractor model 960. Rebuild price
varies depending on which parts needs to be replaced and/or repaired.
$600.00± for parts and labor, plus return shipping & handling.
A-1 Miller's Professional Right Angle Gearbox Rebuild Service for
MTD Farm King garden tractor model 960. Rebuild price
varies depending on which parts needs to be replaced and/or repaired.
$400.00± for parts and labor, plus return shipping & handling.
A-1 Miller's Professional
Gearbox Rebuild Service for Peerless (including most other makes and models
of right angle gearboxes) for the Mower Deck or Cub Cadet belt-drive garden
tractor models 482, 580, 582 Special, 1100, 1204 and 1604 with the Peerless
model 2300 transaxle. We also rebuild most other makes and models of
right angle gearboxes used in garden tractors, on mower decks, and used
elsewhere, as long as replacement parts are available. Repair price varies
depending on which parts needs to be replaced and/or repaired.
$200.00± for parts and labor, plus return shipping & handling.
Drive Belt. Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 482, 580, 582 Special,
1100, 1204 and 1604. This V-belt goes from the Peerless right-angle gearbox
to the Peerless transaxle.
-
High quality aftermarket. Long
lasting premium belt. 1/2" wide x 33" length. Replaces Cub Cadet part # 954-3000.
$10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Cub Cadet part # 954-3000. 1/2" wide x 32.87" length. $31.75 each,
plus shipping & handling.
|
OEM
Cub Cadet Garden Tractor 3-Pin Solid Clutch Drive Plate.
Designed for IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86,
100, 102, 104, 108, 122, 124, 126 and 128 with the solid-mounted engine.
These models have the engine fastened directly to the frame with no rubber
motor mounts. If you want to use this type of drive plate in a "Quiet Line"
model 800, 1000 or 1200 with the ISO-mounted engine, then a set of A-1 Miller's
solid motor mounts must also be installed,
making the clutch/driveshaft assembly rigid throughout so less wear will
occur to the clutch assembly. IMPORTANT: To prevent the pilot bushing
(and holes in the clutch disc) from wearing excessively, it's highly recommended
that your OEM pressure plates be trued-up (and resurfaced until perfectly
flat for better clutch adhesion) in a
metal lathe. And before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch
assembly in the tractor, apply automotive grease inside the pilot bushing
and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if either is dry, chances
are, the driveshaft will wear the bushing excessively or bind up in the bushing,
and the clutch may not release.
-
Used and in excellent condition. Balanced with outer edge trued-up in metal
lathe and spiral pin bosses welded to plate for added strength. (A-1 Miller's
distinctive features.) OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-384652-R12. $150.00
each, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in stock.)
-
New. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-384652-R12.
$255.60 each, plus shipping &
handling.
|
Cub Cadet Garden Tractor
3-Pin Flexible Center Clutch Drive Plate. Designed for IH-built
Cub Cadet garden tractor "Quiet Line" models 800, 1000 and 1200, including
models 1250, 1450 and 1650 with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment. All
these models have a rubber ISO-mounted engine to
reduce vibration throughout the tractor for operator comfort. IMPORTANT
- To maintain balance of this particular drive plate, one spiral pin is longer
than the other two - do not grind it down! And both pressure plates should
be trued-up (and resurfaced until perfectly flat for better clutch adhesion)
in a metal lathe to prevent the possibility of breakage. FYI - The OEM Cub
Cadet clutch pressure plates are made of stamped steel, which makes them
somewhat oblong or "egg-shaped" and not machined perfectly round, which causes
the clutch disc and drive plate to wear and eventually break. This is what
causes the pilot bushing to prematurely wear. And before reinstalling the
driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply automotive grease inside
the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if either
is dry, chances are, the driveshaft can bind up in the bushing, the clutch
may not release, and cause severe wear to both the bushing and driveshaft.
Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet flexible drive plate part # IH-106545-C93.
-
Used and in excellent condition. OEM Cub Cadet IH-117591-C1.
$125.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. (When available or in stock.)
-
New. OEM Cub Cadet IH-117591-C1.
$241.20 each, plus shipping &
handling.
|
A-1 Miller's Professional
Repair Service - Weld Spiral Pin Collars on YOUR OEM IH Cub Cadet Garden
Tractor Drive Plate. This adds approximately 85% more strength to prevent
from bending or flexing of drive plate while under severe strain from heavy
duty use or competition pulling. Labor include true-up drive plate in
metal lathe to remove wobble or run-out to reduce vibration.
We always perform this repair to a customer's drive plate, as part of the
complete clutch rebuild. IMPORTANT: To prevent the pilot bushing (and
holes in the clutch disc) from wearing excessively, it's highly recommended
that your OEM pressure plates be trued-up (and resurfaced until perfectly
flat for better clutch adhesion) in a
metal lathe. And before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch
assembly in the tractor, apply automotive grease inside the pilot bushing
and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if either is dry, chances
are, the driveshaft will wear the bushing excessively or bind up in the bushing,
and the clutch may not release. An original, ingenious and innovative
concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this type of
service.
-
$30.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling.
|
A-1 Miller's Professional
Repair Service - Repair your OEM IH Cub Cadet garden tractor 3-pin clutch
drive plate when the three OEM drive pin collar(s) are broken off with three
or six hardened steel drive studs. No need to purchase another drive plate.
Work include true-up drive plate in
metal lathe to remove wobble or run-out to reduce vibration
and for precision alignment installation of drive studs. I can also do this
to repair a customer's drive plate, as part of the clutch rebuild.
IMPORTANT: To prevent the pilot bushing (and holes in the clutch disc)
from wearing excessively, it's highly recommended that your OEM pressure
plates be trued-up (and resurfaced until perfectly flat for better clutch
adhesion) in a
metal lathe. And before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch
assembly in the tractor, apply automotive grease inside the pilot bushing
and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if either is dry, chances
are, the driveshaft will wear the bushing excessively or bind up in the bushing,
and the clutch may not release. An original, ingenious and innovative
concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this type of
service.
-
$60.00, includes 3 drive studs and labor, plus return shipping &
handling.
|
A-1 Miller's Professional
Repair Service - Repair Worn Over-Size Pilot Bushing Hole in YOUR IH
Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Drive Plate, or Repair Bushing in YOUR Cub Cadet
"Original" Garden Tractor Pulley/Clutch Disc for Installation of OEM-size
Pilot Bushing. No need to purchase another drive plate. Work include true-up
drive plate in
metal lathe to remove wobble or run-out to reduce vibration.
I can also do this to repair a customer's drive plate, as part of the clutch
rebuild. IMPORTANT: To prevent the pilot bushing (and holes in the clutch
disc) from wearing excessively, it's highly recommended that your OEM pressure
plates be trued-up (and resurfaced until perfectly flat for better clutch
adhesion) in a
metal lathe. And before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch
assembly in the tractor, apply automotive grease inside the pilot bushing
and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if either is dry, chances
are, the driveshaft will wear the bushing excessively or bind up in the bushing,
and the clutch may not release. An original, ingenious and innovative
concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this type of
service.
-
$35.00 for parts and labor, plus return shipping & handling.
|
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Convert your OEM IH
or MTD Cub Cadet garden tractor clutch drive plate from 3-pin (IH) or 3-stud
(MTD) to 3-pin/3-stud or 6-stud. Work include true-up plate in
metal lathe to remove wobble or run-out to reduce vibration,
precision drill 3 new holes in exact spacing of OEM pins or studs, and then
install 3 additional hardened steel studs, lock washers and nuts. I can also
do this to repair a customer's drive plate, as part of the clutch rebuild.
NOTE: Clutch disc must be precision-drilled with 3 additional holes to
accept the 3 additional drive studs. IMPORTANT: To prevent the pilot bushing
(and holes in the clutch disc) from wearing excessively, it's highly recommended
that your OEM pressure plates be trued-up (and resurfaced until perfectly
flat for better clutch adhesion) in a
metal lathe. And before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch
assembly in the tractor, apply automotive grease inside the pilot bushing
and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if either is dry, chances
are, the driveshaft will wear the bushing excessively or bind up in the bushing,
and the clutch may not release. An original, ingenious and innovative
concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this type of
service. $60.00 each drive plate, includes parts and labor, plus
return shipping & handling.
  |
 Clutch Drive Studs w/nuts and split lock washers for Cub
Cadet garden tractors. IMPORTANT: Installing three additional
clutch drive stud in a drive plate is something that must be performed with
precision accuracy. And it's highly recommended that your OEM pressure
plates be trued-up in a
metal lathe (with a self-centering 3-jaw chuck) so they'll
be perfectly round (to reduce premature pilot bushing wear, and resurfaced
until perfectly flat for better clutch adhesion) to prevent premature wearing
of the new pilot bushing and drive pins in the drive plate, and holes in
the clutch disc.
-
High Quality Aftermarket Clutch Drive Studs w/nuts and split lock washers
for a Single Clutch Disc Setup. For general yard and garden work, or competition
stock tractor pulling. Made of hardened steel. A-1 Miller's part. Dimensions:
3/8" diameter x 1-1/2" length (measured from drive plate to end of stud).
Replaces Cub Cadet part # 911-3043. $30.00 set of 3, plus shipping
& handling.
-
High Quality Clutch Drive Studs w/nuts and split lock washers for a Double
Clutch Disc Setup. For competition pulling only. Made of hardened steel.
A-1 Miller's part. Dimensions: 3/8" diameter x 1-875" length (measured from
drive plate to end of stud). Replaces Cub Cadet part # 911-3043.
$60.00 set of 6, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Cub Cadet Clutch Drive Stud. Nut not included. Dimensions: 3/8" diameter
x 1-1/2" length. OEM Cub Cadet part # 911-3043. $60.30 each,
plus shipping & handling.
|
Driveshafts
for IH Cub Cadet "Original" Garden Tractor. NOTE: These
driveshafts, with the OEM factory designed machined-down 3/8" diameter support
end, are originally used with Cub Cadet coupler arm with the 25/64" center
hole (part # 759-3009). But with a 5/8" diameter
support end (A-1 Miller's improved design), the driveshaft can be used instead
with Cub Cadet coupler arm with the 5/8" center hole (part
# 748-3001). Due to the increase in material, less wear will occur to
the end of the driveshaft and hole in the coupler arm. Available
only in stress proof steel. Please indicate with 3/8" or 5/8" stub end.
Driveshafts comes with flat steel coupler arm welded to shaft and coiled/spiral
pin holes drilled. Coiled/Spiral
pins listed below.
-
High Strength 1144 Stress-Proof Steel Driveshaft(95,000 P.S.I. strength).
When ordering, please specify with or without creeper drive. Fabricated by
A-1 Miller's. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-376255-R11.(Part number listed
is without creeper drive; no part number available for driveshaft with creeper
drive.) $60.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
New. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-376255-R11. (Part number listed is without creeper
drive; no part number available for driveshaft with creeper drive.)
$145.60 each, plus shipping & handling.
Driveshafts for IH- and MTD-built
Cub Cadet Clutch Drive Garden Tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102,
104, 106, 108, 122, 124, 126, 128, 580, 582, 800, 1000, 1050, 1200, 1604,
1606 and 1806, including models 1250, 1450 and 1650 with a hydrostatic disconnect
attachment. NOTE: These driveshafts are made to
order. When ordering, please specify model of Cub Cadet and possibly exact
length and exactly where the coiled/spiral pin holes needs to be drilled.
Please indicate if you want the 3rd hole drilled for the main pressure spring
or if you are going to use a split clamping/locking
collar instead. For competition pulling, it is recommended that a
split clamping/locking collar be used.
Driveshafts for double composite clutch discs are available. For a tractor
without a driveshaft/clutch assembly, to determine the exact length of the
driveshaft, with engine fastened to the tractor frame, measure between the
end of the crankshaft threads or bolt head to the input shaft in the transaxle
(or creeper drive input shaft), then subtract 1/4". This will allow an 1/8"
clearance on each end. Driveshafts for hydrostatic drive Cub Cadets are also
available listed below. Ê
IMPORTANT: Before installing the
driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, if the drive plate have a bronze
pilot bushing, apply clean automotive grease inside the bushing and on the
front of the driveshaft. Because if it's installed dry, the driveshaft may
not release, it can bind up and cause severe wear to both the bushing and
driveshaft. No grease is required on the driveshaft if a radial ball bearing
is installed the drive plate.
Coiled/Spiral pins listed
below.
-
High Strength 1144 Stress-Proof Driveshaft. (95,000 P.S.I. strength.) Up
to 20" in length with no holes drilled; customer cuts shaft to desired
length and drills own holes. $12.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
High Strength 1144 Stress-Proof Driveshaft. (95,000 P.S.I. strength.) With
1/4"
coiled/spiral
pin holes drilled and chamfered in stock locations unless otherwise
specified, with the exception of the 3rd hole which is optional for use with
a split clamping/locking collar. Please
specify model of Cub Cadet garden tractor when ordering. Fabricated by A-1
Miller's. Replaces Cub Cadet part #'s IH-385982-R91 and IH-385982-R91.
$50.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
New driveshaft for Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102,
104, 106, 122, 124 and 126. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-385982-R91. $174.50
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
New driveshaft for Cub Cadet garden tractor models 86, 108 and 128. OEM Cub
Cadet part # IH-545492-R91. $148.15 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
New driveshaft for Cub Cadet garden tractor models 800, 1000 and 1200, including
models 1250, 1450 and 1650 with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment. OEM
Cub Cadet part # IH-61454-C94. $162.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
New driveshaft for Cub Cadet clutch drive garden tractor models 580, 582,
1604, 1606 and 1806. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-223276-C1. $236.45 each,
plus shipping & handling.
-
Ultra Tough 304 Alloy Stainless Steel Driveshaft. (130,000 P.S.I. strength;
recommended for tractors with a diesel engine.) Up to 20" in length with
no holes for drilled. (Customer cuts shaft to length and
drills own holes.) $25.00 each,
plus shipping & handling.
-
Ultra Tough 304 Alloy Stainless Steel Driveshaft. (130,000 P.S.I. strength;
recommended for tractors with a diesel engine.) With 1/4"
coiled/spiral
pin holes drilled and chamfered in stock locations unless otherwise
specified, with the exception of the 3rd hole which is optional for use with
two split clamping/locking collars. Please
specify model of Cub Cadet garden tractor when ordering. Fabricated by A-1
Miller's. Replaces Cub Cadet part #'s IH-385982-R91 and IH-385982-R91.
$85.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Driveshafts for IH Cub Cadet
Hydrostatic Drive Garden Tractor models 105, 107, 109, 123, 125, 127, 129,
147, 109, 129, 149 and 169. NOTE: These driveshafts, with the OEM factory
designed machined-down 3/8" diameter support end, are originally used with
Cub Cadet coupler arm with the 25/64" center hole (part
# 759-3009). But with a 5/8" diameter support end (A-1 Miller's improved
design), the driveshaft can be used instead with Cub Cadet coupler arm with
the 5/8" center hole (part # 748-3001). Due to the
increase in material, less wear will occur to the end of the driveshaft and
hole in the coupler arm. Available only in stress proof steel. Driveshaft
comes with flat steel coupler arm welded to shaft and coiled/spiral pin holes
drilled. Please indicate with 3/8" or 5/8" stub end. Please specify
with or without creeper drive.
Coiled/Spiral pins listed
below.
-
High Strength 1144 Stress Proof Steel Driveshaft. (95,000 P.S.I. strength.)
When ordering, please specify model of tractor and if a 3/8" or 5/8" stub
end is desired. Fabricated by A-1 Miller's. Replaces Cub Cadet part #
IH-397373-R2 for models 105, 107, 123, 125, 127, 147; and part # IH-545511-R1
for models 109, 129, 149 and 169. $60.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
New driveshaft for models 105, 107, 123, 125, 127 and 147. OEM Cub Cadet
part # IH-397373-R2. $148.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
New driveshaft for models 109, 129, 149 and 169. OEM Cub Cadet part #
IH-545511-R1. $96.10 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
New driveshaft for models 682, 782, 782D, 784, 1541, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1810,
1811, 1812 and 1860. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-132441-C2. $89.10 each,
plus shipping & handling.
Driveshafts for Cub Cadet
Garden Tractor models 482, 580, 582 Special, 1100, 1204, 1604 1606 and
1806. (Belt drive models; engine to right angle gearbox w/Peerless model
2300 transaxle.) Coiled/Spiral pins listed below.
-
High Strength 1144 Stress Proof Steel Driveshaft. (95,000 P.S.I. strength.)
With no holes drilled; customer drills
own holes. $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
High Strength 1144 Stress Proof Steel Driveshaft. (95,000 P.S.I. strength.)
With 1/4"
coiled/spiral
pin holes drilled and chamfered in stock locations unless otherwise
specified. Fabricated by A-1 Miller's. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part
#'s 738-3000 (482 and 1204), IH-79998-C1 (580, 582 Special and 1604) and
IH-132444-C1 (1100). $35.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Ultra Tough 304 Alloy Stainless Steel Driveshaft. (130,000 P.S.I. strength.)
With no holes drilled; customer drills
own holes. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Ultra Tough 304 Alloy Stainless Steel Driveshaft. (130,000 P.S.I. strength.)
With 1/4"
coiled/spiral
pin holes drilled and chamfered in stock locations unless otherwise
specified. Fabricated by A-1 Miller's. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part
#'s 738-3000 (482 and 1204), IH-79998-C1 (580, 582 Special and 1604) and
IH-132444-C1 (1100). $85.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Driveshafts for Cub Cadet
Belt Drive Garden Tractor models 482, 580, 582 Special, 1100, 1204 and
1604. (Belt drive models; engine to right angle gearbox w/Peerless model
2300 transaxle.)
Coiled/Spiral
pins listed below.
-
High Strength 1144 Stress Proof Steel Driveshaft. (95,000 P.S.I. strength.)
With no holes drilled; customer drills
own holes. $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
High Strength 1144 Stress Proof Steel Driveshaft. (95,000 P.S.I. strength.)
With 1/4"
coiled/spiral
pin holes drilled and chamfered in stock locations unless otherwise
specified. Fabricated by A-1 Miller's. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part
#'s 738-3000 (482 and 1204), IH-79998-C1 (580, 582 Special and 1604) and
IH-132444-C1 (1100). $35.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Ultra Tough 304 Alloy Stainless Steel Driveshaft. (130,000 P.S.I. strength.)
With no holes drilled; customer drills
own holes. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Ultra Tough 304 Alloy Stainless Steel Driveshaft. (130,000 P.S.I. strength.)
With 1/4"
coiled/spiral
pin holes drilled and chamfered in stock locations unless otherwise
specified. Fabricated by A-1 Miller's. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part
#'s 738-3000 (482 and 1204), IH-79998-C1 (580, 582 Special and 1604) and
IH-132444-C1 (1100). $85.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Driveshafts for MTD-built
Cub Cadet Hydrostatic Drive Garden Tractor models 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784,
882, 982, 1210, 1211, 1282, 1512, 1541, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1810, 1811, 1812
and 1860.
Coiled/Spiral
pins listed below.
-
High Strength 1144 Stress Proof Steel Driveshaft. (95,000 P.S.I. strength.)
With no holes drilled; customer drills
own holes.. $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
High Strength 1144 Stress Proof Steel Driveshaft. (95,000 P.S.I. strength.)
With 1/4"
coiled/spiral
pin holes drilled and chamfered in stock locations unless otherwise
specified. When ordering, please specify model of Cub Cadet. Fabricated by
A-1 Miller's. Replaces various Cub Cadet part numbers. $35.00 each,
plus shipping & handling.
-
New driveshaft for models 680, 1210, 1211 and 1282. OEM Cub Cadet part #
IH-140079-C1. $87.25 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
New driveshaft for models 682, 782, 782D, 784, 982, 1541, 1710, 1711, 1712,
1810, 1811, 1812, 1860. OEM Cub Cadet part # 738-3011. $89.10 each,
plus shipping & handling.
-
New driveshaft for models 782D, 882, 1512. OEM Cub Cadet part # 738-3051.
$68.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Ultra Tough 304 Alloy Stainless Steel Driveshaft. (130,000 P.S.I. strength;
recommended for tractors with a diesel engine.) With no holes drilled;
customer drills own holes. $25.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Ultra Tough 304 Alloy Stainless Steel Driveshaft. (130,000 P.S.I. strength;
recommended for tractors with a diesel engine.) With 1/4"
coiled/spiral
pin holes drilled and chamfered in stock locations unless otherwise
specified. When ordering, please specify model of Cub Cadet. Fabricated by
A-1 Miller's. Replaces various Cub Cadet part numbers. $85.00 each,
plus shipping & handling.
Driveshafts for MTD-built Cub Cadet Hydrostatic Drive Garden Tractor models
1872 and 2072. (Available only in stress proof steel.)
Coiled/Spiral
pins listed below.
-
High Strength 1144 Stress Proof Steel Driveshaft. (95,000 P.S.I. strength.)
With no holes drilled; customer drills
own holes. $50.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
High Strength 1144 Stress Proof Steel Driveshaft. (95,000 P.S.I. strength.)
With 3/8"
coiled/spiral
pin holes and hole for cooling fan drilled and chamfered in stock
locations. Fabricated by A-1 Miller's. Replaces Cub Cadet part # 738-3064.
$75.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
New. OEM Cub Cadet part # 738-3064. $146.35 each, plus shipping &
handling.
Click here to contact A-1 Miller's
Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing,
and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance
and support and payment options. If you need a part or parts
that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll
see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of
Page]
Replacement
Coiled/Spiral Pins for Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Driveshafts and 3-Pin Clutch
Drive Plate. Each made of high strength, heat treated, hardened carbon
steel. Minimum Rockwell hardness is C42. NOTE: The driveshafts with or
without a creeper drive use the same number of coiled/spiral pins. There's
two for the pressure plates (1-1/2" length), one behind the main pressure
spring (1" length), and two in the rear coupler (1" length for the small
diameter coupler, or 1-1/2" length for the large diameter coupler). NOTE
- On the narrow frame Cub Cadet garden tractors, a grade 8 bolt w/locknut
can be used to connect the coupler to the input shaft in the transaxle for
much easier installation and removal.
[Return To Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
3/16" Diameter Heavy Duty Coiled/Spiral Pins for IH Cub Cadet "Original"
garden tractor driveshaft. 3,100 P.S.I. breaking strength.
-
3/16" diameter x 1" length. For splined carrier and behind main pressure
spring. (OEM hole must be drilled out exactly to .1875".) .75¢
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
3/16" diameter x 1-1/2" length. For front slotted pressure plate.
.75¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
1/4" Diameter Heavy Duty Coiled/Spiral Pins for all other models of Cub Cadet
garden tractor driveshafts. 6,500 P.S.I. breaking strength.
-
1/4" diameter x 1" length. For behind main pressure spring and small O.D.
rear coupler or coupler arm. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
1/4" diameter x 1-1/2" length. For both pressure plates and large O.D. rear
coupler. $1.25 each, plus shipping & handling.
3/8" Diameter x 1-1/2" Length Heavy Duty Coiled/Spiral Pins for OEM IH Cub
Cadet narrow and wide frame garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100,
102, 104, 106, 108, 122, 124, 126 and 128 3-pin clutch drive plate and drag
link steering arm, and driveshaft for MTD-built Cub Cadet garden tractor
models 1872 and 2072. 12,600 P.S.I. breaking strength. NOTE: The holes
in the drag link arm and spindle shaft may need to be drilled (enlarged)
exactly to 3/8" (.375") for this pin to fit snug. $3.00 each,
plus shipping & handling.
3/8" Diameter x 1-3/4" Length
Heavy Duty Coiled/Spiral Pin for OEM IH Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" garden tractor
models 800, 1000 and 1200 "flexible" 3-pin clutch drive plate. (The longer
pin is to maintain drive plate balance.) To install this or above pin(s),
grind off rivet heads in drive plate, punch out remaining rivets, remove/install
spiral pin(s), and then use 1/4" x 1/2" length bolts w/locknuts to fasten
flex plate to drive plate. 12,600 P.S.I. breaking strength. $3.00
each, plus shipping & handling. |
Cub Cadet Hydrostatic Drive Garden
Tractor Cooling Fans listed below. Replace the OEM nylon cooling
fan with broken blade(s) or a slipping OEM cooling fan (on the driveshaft)
to prevent overheating and burning up of the hydrostatic drive unit.
IMPORTANT - Be sure to clean any debris from the hydro unit once a year
too, for maximum cooling. FYI - Heat radiating (especially in the summertime)
from the hydrostatic pump after long use when the tractor is shut down causes
the nylon cooling fan on the driveshaft to eventually harden and become brittle,
which could cause the blade(s) to break off when the tractor is in use. Then
the out-of-balance fan causes the driveshaft to wobble, which causes the
rubber flex coupler disc(s) to wear and/or cause the bronze pilot bushings
on the ends of the shaft to wear oblong and possibly cause the driveshaft
to bend. The only way to prevent this from happening is to install a [clockwise
rotating] aluminum cooling fan of the appropriate diameter with a
steel fabricated hub adapter. [Top of Page] |
5-1/2" Diameter Nylon Hydrostatic Drive Cooling Fan. Fits Cub Cadet
garden tractor models 105, 107, 123, 125 and 147 with a 5/8" driveshaft.
OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-394065-R92. $23.20 each, plus shipping &
handling. |
5" Diameter Nylon Hydrostatic Drive Cooling Fan. Fits Cub Cadet garden
tractor models 109, 129, 149, 169, 1250, 1450 and 1650 with a 5/8" driveshaft.
OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-547749-R2. $19.10 each, plus shipping &
handling. |
7" Diameter Nylon Hydrostatic Drive Cooling Fan. Fits Cub Cadet garden
tractor models 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 882, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1282, 1512,
1711, 1712, 1810, 1811, 1812 and 1860 with a 5/8" driveshaft. OEM Cub Cadet
part # 931-3009. $26.35 each, plus shipping & handling. |
7" Diameter Nylon Hydrostatic Drive Cooling Fan. Fits Cub Cadet garden
tractor models 982, 984, 986, 1872, 1912, 1914 and 2072 with a 3/4" driveshaft.
OEM Cub Cadet part # 931-3013. $49.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
7" Diameter Nylon Hydrostatic Drive Cooling Fan. Fits Cub Cadet garden
tractor models 1340, 1440, 1541, 1641, 1782, 1860, 1861, 1863, 1864, 1882,
2082, 2084, 2086, 2130, 2135, 2140, 2145, 2150, 2155, 2160, 2164, 2165, 2182,
2185, 2185, 2284, 3165, 3185, 3186, 3205 and 3225 with a 3/4" driveshaft.
OEM Cub Cadet part # 931-3095. $27.15 each, plus shipping & handling. |
|
Advertisement: (Prices are subject to change without notice.)
Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for
FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support
and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or
parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this
website. |
5/8"
I.D. One-Piece Split Clamping/Locking Collar. With the drilled 3rd
coiled/spiral pin hole not present in the driveshaft, this part stiffens
the driveshaft in the middle 100%, which helps to prevent driveshaft breakage
at 4,000 RPM (without a center pillow block bearing and support brace installed),
and when used with a center pillow block bearing and support brace, this
locking collar prevents the driveshaft from "wobbling around", which could
break at open RPM. Comes with two Allen head screws that secures clamp together
and provide a very tight uniform 360° grip around the driveshaft. NOTE:
With the hardened and "slick" surface of a stainless steel driveshaft, it's
best to use two one-piece split clamping/locking collars because just one
locking collar could slip rearward on the driveshaft when the clutch pedal
is depressed. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website] |
Driveshaft
Center Support Pillow Blocks with self-aligning 5/8" ball bearing and
high quality cast iron housing. For use in all models of IH- and MTD-built
Cub Cadet competition garden pulling tractors. 3-3/4" center to center mounting
holes. Use with steel support brace listed below
Ê. NOTE: Either of these are
required only for Cub Cadet competition pulling tractors with an engine that
run at high RPM or wide open throttle to stabilize driveshaft from wobbling
and prevent breakage. Install just behind main pressure spring on driveshaft.
See pictures of correct installation below.
Ê
[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
-
Pillow Block Bearing w/Set Screw Collar. $20.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
Pillow Block Bearing w/Eccentric Locking Collar. $30.00 each, plus
shipping & handling.
Steel Angled Driveshaft Support
Brace for use with Pillow Block Bearing listed above. For use in all models
of IH- and MTD-built Cub Cadet competition garden pulling tractors. Made
of 1/8" thickness x 2-1/2" width angled steel with holes drilled for pillow
block bearing. When securely fastened or welded to Cub Cadet frame, this
brace will not crack or break, even under severe vibration. NOTE: Before
fastening or welding this brace between the Cub Cadet garden tractor frame
rails, first install pillow block bearing w/housing on assembled driveshaft,
connect driveshaft to transaxle and engine, tighten engine mounting bolts
to tractor frame, then fasten this angle brace to pillow block bearing. This
will guarantee the pillow block bearing and brace is in perfect alignment
and centered with the driveshaft. Otherwise, the driveshaft will be noisy.
Then permanently weld angle brace to tractor frame rails. See correct
installation below. Ê An ingenious
and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please do not accept advertised copycat
products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity
and intelligence.) $20.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
High
Quality Pillow Block Bearings and Angled Steel
Driveshaft Support Brace w/grade 8 bolts, flat washers, lock washers and
nuts. (Package deals.) For use in all models of IH- and MTD-built Cub
Cadet competition garden pulling tractors.
[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
-
Pillow Block Bearing w/Set Screw Collar and Support Brace w/grade 8 bolts,
flat washers, lock washers and nuts. $35.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
Pillow Block Bearing w/Eccentric Locking Collar and Support Brace w/grade
8 bolts, flat washers, lock washers and nuts. $45.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
 |
Do this only if the front
axle have been moved forward -
On the narrow frame Cub Cadet garden tractors, if the front
axle have been moved forward, reinforce the frame rails where the engine
mounting holes are to reduce normal high-RPM engine vibration travel that
could lead to both frame and driveshaft breakage. To do so, stiffen the frame
rails where the engine mounting bolt holes are by welding two 1/4" thick
steel plates under the frame. Longer engine mounting bolts must be used,
too. The reason for this is because when the front axle center support is
moved, the remaining frame material isn't thick enough to hold up to the
engine vibration.
For the spread frame models with the ISO (rubber) motor mounts, replace the
rubber mounts with a set of our solid steel motor mounts or remove the brackets
and fabricate a minimum 1/4" thick plate steel, set it at the right height
and weld it to the frame. But the engine mounting holes and oil drain plug
hole must be properly located (centered) and drilled in the plate first.
This is much easier to do on a
platform work table than
on the floor or ground. [Return to Previous
Section, Paragraph or Website]
Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Engine Mounting Brackets and Plates:
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How to Remove the Driveshaft/Clutch Assembly
from a Cub Cadet Garden Tractor: (This is much easier performed on
a platform work table
than on the floor or ground.) (Updated 9/13/22)
-
For the narrow frame tractors (models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106,
122, 124 and 126), the engine will need to be removed first.
-
For the wide frame tractors (models 86, 108, 128, 800, 1000, 1200) and spread
frame tractors (models 580, 582, 800, 1000, 1050, 1200, 1282, 1535, 1604,
1606 and 1806), the clutch assembly can be removed without removing the engine.
-
The 3-pin drive plate remains on the engine and it slides out of the driveshaft
and clutch disc when the engine is removed.
-
Unfasten the clutch release lever from the frame
and clutch adjustment/release rod.
-
There's a coiled/spiral pin in the tubular coupler (narrow frames) or flex
arm coupler (wide and spread frames) that fastens onto the input shaft in
the transaxle. Remove it by using a 1/4" coiled/spiral pin punch and a medium
sized hammer.
The coiled/spiral pin in
the input shaft on the transaxle of a narrow frame Cub Cadet garden tractor
can be very difficult to remove and somewhat difficult to access from underneath.
Therefore, it's recommended that a 1" hole should be drilled through the
top of a short tunnel cover (center section of the tractor frame), or through
the side of a tall tunnel cover in direct alignment with the coiled/spiral
pin, then use a long 1/4" roll pin punch and medium size hammer to drive
the pin from the coupler. Don't attempt to drill-out the coiled/spiral pin.
They're just as hard as a high quality drill bit. After the pin is removed
and the clutch assembly is rebuilt, upon reinstallation in the tractor, use
a socket in the drilled hole to fasten a hardened steel 1/4" diameter
[grade 8 or Allen head] bolt in the coupler.
For cosmetic purpose, hide the
drilled hole with a 1" plastic or metal hole plug. Just push the plug in
the hole for a nice distinctive look. And sometimes when driving out
the coiled/spiral pin, the pounding will bend the input shaft in the transaxle.
If this happens, the input shaft will need to be straightened (and hope it
doesn't break later because the metal have been weakened) or a good used
input shaft will need to be installed. This is why it's highly recommended
that a hardened steel (grade 8) 1/4" bolt/lock nut be used in the coupler
in place of the coiled/spiral pin because if the driveshaft ever needs to
be removed again, removing a bolt/lock nut would be a lot easier than driving
out a stubborn coiled/spiral pin. Plus, it'll be easier on your nerves and
on the input shaft.
-
The clutch assembly/driveshaft then can be removed from of the tractor.
On the IH-built models 800, 1000
and 1200, there's a 5/8" steel ball at the end of the driveshaft located
inside the rear flex arm coupler (with the bronze swivel bushing). Do not
lose this ball! It will need to be reused when reinstalling the clutch
assembly/driveshaft in the tractor. This ball is located at the end of
the driveshaft and inside the rear flex arm coupler (with the bronze swivel
bushing) and sometimes gets lost when removing the clutch assembly/driveshaft
from the tractor. It allows the driveshaft to "move side to side" with the
engine (that's mounted on rubber mounts). If it's left out, the clutch
assembly/driveshaft will move further back 5/8" when the clutch pedal is
depressed, and the clutch disc will not release and operate correctly. The
MTD-built models have no steel ball. The end of the [5/8" longer] driveshaft
is pointed, which fits in the pilot hole of the input shaft in the
transaxle.
How to Disassemble the Clutch Components from the Driveshaft -
To disassemble the clutch components from the driveshaft, first place the
front pressure plate hub on slightly open jaws of a bench vise, and use a
quality-made 1/4" coiled/spiral pin punch and a medium size hammer to drive
out the coiled/spiral pin. Then the pressure plates, clutch disc
clutch release/throw-out bearing and pressure
spring should all slide off the driveshaft.
Fasten the Coupler Arms Together To Make One Rigid Driveshaft Coupler
-
With
solid motor mounts installed in a Cub Cadet
"Quiet Line" garden tractor that originally came with a rubber ISO-mounted
engine, the driveshaft will not be able to "move" with the engine and there'll
be less chance of clutch parts prematurely wearing or breaking. The flexible
rubber disc(s) at the end of the driveshaft will be useless too, and could
deteriorate over time. So instead of replacing the OEM coupler arms with
a machined rigid tubular coupler, make the coupler arms rigid by removing
the flexible rubber disc(s) and install a couple of 3/8" thickness spacers
for a single disc, and a couple of 3/4" thickness spacers for double composite
clutch discs, and fasten the arms together with a couple of 3/8" diameter
hardened steel bolts. (Large nuts are used as spacers in the photo to the
right.) By the way - one rubber flex disc is 3/8" thick. This setup is just
as strong as using a rigid tubular coupler, and it cost a lot less.
If the outer parts of the
two arms don't come together or meet when the bolts are tightened (be careful
not to tighten the bolts too tight if the arms don't meet, they could break),
a couple of thin flat washers may need to be added as shims next to the spacers.
And before fastening the arms together with the spacers, first slide the
arms on the driveshaft so they'll be in perfect alignment with each other,
and tighten the bolts. See the photo to the right ->. Also, if you want,
leave out the 5/8" diameter [swivel/spacer] steel ball. It'll serve no purpose
when using solid motor mounts and when making
the coupler arms rigid.
FYI - Many pullers convert the hydrostatic drive Cub Cadet garden tractor
models 109, 129, 149 and 169 (wide frames with a solid mounted engine) and
models 1250, 1450 and 1650 (wide frames with a rubber ISO-mounted engine)
into a clutch drive tractor. All that's needed are the clutch assembly with
the hanger bracket for the release lever and
a complete transaxle out of a gear drive Cub Cadet garden tractor model 86,
108, 128 (wide frames with a solid mounted engine) or models 800, 1000 or
1200 (wide frames with a rubber ISO-mounted engine). A set of A-1 Miller's
solid motor mounts will be also be needed
if the tractor originally have the ISO rubber motor mounts. The braking
mechanism, preferably the internal "wet" brake, out of a wide frame Cub Cadet
garden tractor will also be needed.
Do not fasten the two coupler
arms directly together on the IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor because
the driveshaft needs to move up or down to tighten the drive belt with the
engine. Leave the flexible rubber disc in place, even for pulling competition.
Or a 5/8" I.D. universal joint can be installed instead.
A rigid tubular rear driveshaft
coupler with a worn center can be repaired by boring out the center and
installing a press-fit steel sleeve. Then ream the sleeve to .626" for a
slip-fit on the driveshaft. Then the holes
for the coiled/spiral pins can be drilled. The boring and reaming process
should be performed on a milling machine with a self-centering 3-jaw super
spacer or in a
metal lathe with a self-centering 3-jaw chuck.
(IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable using
a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist with
a lathe.)
Installing a coiled/spiral pin
in the rear of the driveshaft to connect the coupler to the input shaft on
the transaxle of a Cub Cadet garden tractor can be very difficult. To make
it much easier, simply use a 1/4" grade 8 bolt instead. For strength, the
shank (unthreaded part) of the bolt needs to have full contact with the coupler
and driveshaft. And as long as the driveshaft is in correct alignment with
the centerline of the crankshaft and transaxle input shaft, with the
coiled/spiral pin holes in-line with each other, and not offset 90°,
at around 4,000 RPM, this should not cause the driveshaft to "shake around"
or vibrate whatsoever. At high RPM or at
wide
open throttle, a center support pillow
block bearing and brace should be used midway on the driveshaft.
For pulling applications, rubber motor mounts (and the flexible coupler at
the rear of the driveshaft) absorbs valuable horsepower, which must be
transferred to the rear tires for full power to the track. The rubber motor
mounts will also cause the engine to vibrate excessively at high RPM or at
wide
open throttle. Plus, with normal use of the tractor, rubber motor mounts
could cause the flexible 3-pin drive plate and/or the driveshaft to eventually
break. If a tractor that have rubber motor mounts and a flexible coupler
is going to be used for competition pulling, definitely install some metal
motor mounts.
The Correct Way to Drill a Hole for a
Roll, Coiled or Spiral Pin so the Hole Will Not Be Too Big for the Pin
-
First of all, when using a milling machine, use a
spotting drill bit, or use a
center punch or
transfer punch to locate exactly where the hole needs to
be drilled to prevent the drill bit from "skating" on the surface. This will
position and guide the drill bit to bore EXACTLY where the hole needs to
be drilled. And due to the natural expansion of a roll, coiled or coiled/spiral
pin, ALWAYS drill the hole with a drill bit that's one size smaller than
the actual size for the roll, coiled or coiled/spiral pin's size, to allow
for sufficient compression of the pin when installed in the hole. For example:
for a 1/4" roll, coiled or coiled/spiral pin, initially drill the hole with
a 15/64" drill bit (one size smaller than the 1/4" drill bit), then finish
enlarging the same hole with a 1/4" drill bit. Doing this will guarantee
the hole will be EXACTLY 1/4" in diameter. If the hole is initially drilled
with just the 1/4" bit, chances are, this will cause the hole to be wallowed
out, making it too big for the 1/4" roll, coiled or coiled/spiral pin.
[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
Advertisement: (Prices are subject to change without notice.)
Click here to contact A-1 Miller's
Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing,
and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance
and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need
a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in
this website. |
Solid Motor Mount Kit for Cub
Cadet "Quiet Line" Garden Tractors. Replace OEM Rubber ISO-Mounts with a
Set of Solid Motor Mounts to Prevent Repeated and Costly Damage to the Clutch
Components! An original, ingenious, innovative concept invention
by Brian Miller, because I was the one who originally thought of, promoted
and advertised the use of this product. Please accept no copycat products
of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and
intelligence.) [Top
of Page]
Details include:
-
 These custom-made solid motor mounts replaces deteriorated
OEM "ISO" rubber engine mounts, which is usually associated with a damaged
"flexible" 3-pin clutch drive plate and damaged clutch components. They are
also a must for competition pulling! Fits IH Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" garden
tractor models 482, 800, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282,
1340, 1450 and 1650. If the engine in your tractor is mounted on angled cradles
with rubber mounts between the cradles and tractor frame, then these are
what your tractor need.
-
Direct replacement for OEM ISO-rubber mounts with no modifications to the
tractor whatsoever. A thick flat washer fastens on top of the cradles with
the solid mounts sandwiched between the cradles and tractor frame. Torque
the bolts at 35 ft. lb. Can be easily removed if rubber mounts are desired
instead.
-
For general lawn and garden use, heavy towing, pushing snow or competition
pulling. A MUST for competition pulling (or even everyday use) because these
stabilize the engine and entire clutch assembly to prevent severe engine
vibration at high RPM or at
wide
open throttle, which can destroy the flexible 3-pin clutch drive plate,
clutch disc and driveshaft components. These solid motor mounts weigh about
1 lb.
-
Precision machined by A-1 Miller's so they set the engine crankshaft height
at the correct alignment with the driveshaft.
-
FYI - Rubber motor mounts are intended for operator comfort due to engine
vibration only. The rubber ISO-mounted engine tractors with solid motor mounts
installed would feel and operate just like the tractors with a solid-mounted
engine. Some people who installed these solid mounts use their tractor just
to mow grass tell A-1 Miller's that the solid mounts don't cause their tractor
to vibrate much at all, while others who have installed them said the vibration
is unbearable. If the entire tractor vibrates severely after these solid
mounts are installed, then the rotating assembly in the engine
(crankshaft/connecting rod/piston assembly) and/or flywheel is obviously
severely out of balance and needs to be precision spin-balanced by an
automotive/race engine machine shop. Because the old Kohlers was balanced
during the 1960's-70's with old fashioned and out-dated analog technology
and equipment, which is not as precision with today's computerized balancing
technology and equipment. The IH Cub Cadet engineers (and engineers of other
various makes and models of garden tractors) obviously knew that older Kohler
engines were out of balance and would vibrate, this is the only reason they
installed rubber motor mounts in the "Quiet Line" tractors. So if you want,
to minimize the vibration, either install a set of new OEM Cub Cadet ISO
rubber mounts or have the rotating engine parts (crankshaft/piston/connecting
rod and flywheel) dynamically and precision
spin-balanced with up-to-date technology for a smoother running engine.
Or you can return these solid mounts for a full refund, less shipping &
handling. And by the way - the two factory-welded reinforcement bars between
the cradles is used only on Cub Cadet garden tractor models 1204, 1210, 1211,
1282 and 1340 to prevent the mounting bolt holes in the aluminum oil pan
from being stripped out. They are not required with a cast iron oil pan or
with solid motor mounts. When in doubt, Heli-Coil stainless steel thread
inserts can be installed in an aluminum oil pan to prevent the threads from
being stripped out.
-
Solid Motor Mount Kit. Includes four solid mounts, four thick flat
washers and four grade 8 bolts/nuts/lock washers. $40.00 per set, plus
shipping & handling. Click here to contact
A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for
repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service
assistance and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's
if you need a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or
mentioned in this website. | [Top of Page]
[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
|
  Cub
Cadet "Quiet Line" Garden Tractor Engine Mounting Rubber Snubbers/Bumpers
and Rubber ISO-Mounts. Fits Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" garden tractor
models 482, 800, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1340, 1450
and 1650. All these models have a rubber ISO-mounted
engine to reduce overall tractor vibration for operator comfort. The rubber
ISO-mounts can be adapted for use on various other makes and models of small
engine equipment to reduce engine vibration throughout the frame.
[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
-
Rubber Snubber/Bumper with Threaded Stud. Provides stabilization of the engine
and proper alignment of the driveshaft from tension of the drive belt to
the mower deck. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-61510-C1. $21.75 each,
plus shipping & handling.
-
Rubber ISO-mount kit. This kit replaces the mount only on one corner. Order
four kits for a complete set. OEM Cub Cadet part # 759-3952.
$33.60 per kit, plus shipping
& handling.
-
Complete Rubber ISO-mount set. This kit replaces the mount only on one corner.
Order four kits for a complete set. OEM Cub Cadet part # 759-3952 (x4).
$134.40 per set of 4 kits, plus
shipping & handling.
|
OEM-Thickness
Bronze Pilot Bushing. Fits all pre-1981 gear drive IH-built Cub Cadet garden
tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 106, 108, 122, 124, 126
and 128, except "Quiet Line" models. This is also the replacement bushing
for the IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor pulley/clutch disc. Dimensions:
5/8" I.D. x 7/8" O.D. x 3/4" length. IMPORTANT: To prevent the replacement
pilot bushing from premature wear, both OEM pressure plates should be trued-up
in a
metal lathe (with a self-centering 3-jaw chuck) so they'll
be perfectly round (to reduce premature pilot bushing wear, and resurfaced
until perfectly flat for better clutch adhesion), and before reinstalling
the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply automotive grease inside
the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if the bushing
is dry, chances are, the driveshaft can bind up in the bushing, the clutch
may not release, and cause severe wear to both the bushing and driveshaft.
-
High quality aftermarket. $4.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-376265-R2. $6.80 each, plus shipping &
handling.
|
Thin-Wall Bronze
Pilot Bushing Insert for installing inside a worn OEM bronze pilot bushing
in all pre-1981 gear drive IH Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72,
73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 106, 108, 122, 124, 126 and 128, except "Quiet Line"
models. Can also be used inside the OEM bushing in the IH Cub Cadet "Original"
garden tractor pulley/clutch disc. Dimensions: 5/8" I.D. x 3/4" O.D. x 3/4"
length. NOTE: Worn OEM bushing must be precision center-bored to .750"
in a
metal lathe (with a self-centering 3-jaw chuck) so this
bushing will have a press fit. IMPORTANT: To prevent the replacement pilot
bushing from premature wear, both OEM pressure plates should be resurfaced
and trued-up in a metal lathe (with a self-centering 3-jaw chuck) so they'll
be perfectly round (to reduce premature pilot bushing wear, and resurfaced
until perfectly flat for better clutch adhesion), and before reinstalling
the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply automotive grease inside
the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if the bushing
is dry, chances are, the driveshaft can bind up in the bushing, the clutch
may not release, and cause severe wear to both the bushing and driveshaft.
$3.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
 Tubular Driveshaft Couplers. Available in OEM stock
length, 1" longer than stock length (to lessen driveshaft wobble) or 3" rigid
tubular carbon steel driveshaft one-piece rigid tubular coupler. For a
custom-length coupler, exact locations where the coiled/spiral pin holes
need to be drilled are required. Custom-length rigid tubular driveshaft couplers,
up to 6" length are available. To find the location of the coiled/spiral
pin holes, install the driveshaft in the tractor with the engine fastened
to the frame with a couple of bolts, make sure the clutch disc is midway
on the drive pins, then measure precisely from the rear coiled/spiral pin
hole on the driveshaft to the coiled/spiral pin hole in the input shaft in
the transaxle, then add 3/4" for the overall length of the coupler. And one-piece
couplers to replace rubber flex coupler disc and coupler arms on AQS (Quiet
Line) Cub Cadet garden tractor models 800, 1000, 1050 and 1200 when using
solid motor mounts. The 800, 1000 and 1200
coupler will come with two roll pin holes for single or double rubber flex
coupler(s). NOTE: The 3" aftermarket coupler is
used only for competition pulling tractors with a shortened driveshaft so
the input shaft/pinion drive gear can be changed to vary the ground speed
of the tractor. And when ordering, please specify model of Cub Cadet garden
tractor, overall length and coiled/spiral pin hole locations.
-
Coupler with no holes drilled for coiled/spiral pins. (Customer
drills own
holes.) Any length up to 6". $5.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
Aftermarket Stock Length Coupler with holes drilled for coiled/spiral
pins. Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102,
104, 106, 108, 122, 124, 126 and 128. Fabricated by A-1 Miller's. Replaces
Cub Cadet part # IH-394036-R1. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Universal 3" Coupler. This particular coupler have three coiled/spiral pin
holes to replace coupler arms and flex disc(s) on Cub Cadet garden tractor
models 580, 582, 682, 782, 782D, 800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1200, 1204, 1210,
1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1541, 1604, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810,
1811, 1812 and 1860. To set driveshaft in the correct position, referring
to the drawing on the right ->, if tractor originally came with one flex
disc, use the #1 hole, but if tractor originally came with two flex discs,
use the #2 hole. This coupler must be used with
solid motor mounts. Fabricated by A-1 Miller's.
$25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Driveshaft Coupler. Fits models 70, 71, 72,
73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 106, 108, 122, 124, 126 and 128. Cub Cadet part #
IH-394036-R1. $70.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Replacement
Self-Aligning Spherical Bronze Bushing w/Outer Steel Race/Retainer. Fits
pilot bushing retainers listed below and input shaft coupler arm further
listed below in Cub Cadet ISO-mount garden tractor models 482, 580, 582,
582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 882, 982, 984, 1000, 1050, 1200,
1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1541, 1572, 1604, 1606, 1650, 1710,
1711, 1712, 1772, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1860, 1872, 1912, 1914 and 2072. Install
with hammer and socket. IMPORTANT: To prevent the replacement pilot bushing
from premature wear, both OEM pressure plates should be resurfaced and trued-up
in a
metal lathe (with a self-centering 3-jaw chuck) so they'll
be perfectly round (and resurfaced until perfectly flat for better clutch
adhesion), and before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the
tractor, apply automotive grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front
of the driveshaft. Because if the bushing is dry, chances are, the driveshaft
can bind up in the bushing, the clutch may not release, and cause severe
wear to both the bushing and driveshaft. OEM Cub Cadet part # 941-3004.
$39.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
Round Retainer
with Pressed-In Self-Aligning Spherical Pilot Bushing. Fits Cub Cadet "Quiet
Line" rubber ISO-mounted engine garden tractor
models 800, 1000, 1200, 1250, 1450 and 1650. IMPORTANT: To prevent the
replacement pilot bushing from premature wear, both OEM pressure plates should
be resurfaced and trued-up in a
metal lathe (with a self-centering 3-jaw chuck) so they'll
be perfectly round (and resurfaced until perfectly flat for better clutch
adhesion), and before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the
tractor, apply automotive grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front
of the driveshaft. Because if the bushing is dry, chances are, the driveshaft
can bind up in the bushing, the clutch may not release, and cause severe
wear to both the bushing and driveshaft. OEM Cub Cadet IH-126205-C2.
$114.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
Rectangular Flange
with Pressed-In Self-Aligning Spherical Bronze Pilot Bushing. Fits Cub Cadet
"Quiet Line" rubber ISO-mounted engine garden
tractor models 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450,
1541, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1860, 1872 and 2072.
IMPORTANT: To prevent the replacement pilot bushing from premature wear,
both OEM pressure plates should be resurfaced and trued-up in a
metal lathe (with a self-centering 3-jaw chuck) so they'll
be perfectly round (and resurfaced until perfectly flat for better clutch
adhesion), and before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the
tractor, apply automotive grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front
of the driveshaft. Because if the bushing is dry, chances are, the driveshaft
can bind up in the bushing, the clutch may not release, and cause severe
wear to both the bushing and driveshaft. OEM Cub Cadet part # 903-0204.
$33.65 each, plus shipping & handling. |
Rectangular Flange
with Pressed-In Self-Aligning Spherical Bronze Pilot Bushing. Fits Cub Cadet
"Quiet Line" rubber ISO-mounted engine garden
tractor models 782D, 882, 1512, 1572 and 1772. IMPORTANT: To prevent the
replacement pilot bushing from premature wear, both OEM pressure plates should
be resurfaced and trued-up in a
metal lathe (with a self-centering 3-jaw chuck) so they'll
be perfectly round (and resurfaced until perfectly flat for better clutch
adhesion), and before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the
tractor, apply automotive grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front
of the driveshaft. Because if the bushing is dry, chances are, the driveshaft
can bind up in the bushing, the clutch may not release, and cause severe
wear to both the bushing and driveshaft. Discontinued Cub Cadet part
# 703-0231. $45.00 each with new bushing, plus shipping & handling.
(When available or in stock.) |
Rectangular Flange with Pressed-In
Self-Aligning Spherical Bronze Pilot Bushing. Fits Cub Cadet "Quiet Line"
rubber ISO-mounted engine garden tractor
models Fits models 982, 984, 986, 1912 and 1914. IMPORTANT: To prevent
the replacement pilot bushing from premature wear, both OEM pressure plates
should be resurfaced and trued-up in a
metal lathe (with a self-centering 3-jaw chuck) so they'll
be perfectly round (and resurfaced until perfectly flat for better clutch
adhesion), and before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the
tractor, apply automotive grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front
of the driveshaft. Because if the bushing is dry, chances are, the driveshaft
can bind up in the bushing, the clutch may not release, and cause severe
wear to both the bushing and driveshaft. OEM Cub Cadet part # 903-1492.
$45.50 each, plus shipping & handling. |
Transaxle
Input Shaft Coupler Arm. Fits IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor and
models 105, 107, 109, 123, 125, 127, 129, 147, 149 and 169. NOTE:
This particular part goes on the input shaft of the transaxle and not on
the driveshaft. Can also be used in a steering shaft setup of a custom-built
mini-rod pulling tractor as a type of U-joint with a maximum 35º rotational
angle with either flex coupler disc listed below. Dimensions: 25/64" bolt
holes spaced 3" apart x 25/64" center pilot hole (for support end of driveshaft)
x 5/8" center hole. [Return To Previous
Section, Paragraph or Website]
-
Used and in excellent condition. OEM Cub Cadet part # 759-3009. $50.00
each, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in stock.)
-
New. OEM Cub Cadet part # 759-3009. $89.75 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Weld up worn center hole in YOUR
coupler arm and precision redrill hole to original size. $25.00 labor,
plus return shipping & handling.
|
 Driveshaft (or Input Shaft) Coupler Arm.
Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 482, 580, 582, 680, 682, 782, 782D,
784, 782D, 800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282,
1450, 1512, 1541, 1604, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812 and
1860. NOTE: This particular part goes on the driveshaft and not on
the input shaft of the transaxle. Additional Note: This part can be
substituted for the coupler arm listed above when used on the transaxle input
shaft with end of driveshaft at 5/8". Due to the increase in material, less
wear will occur to the end of the driveshaft and hole in the coupler arm.
(A-1 Miller's improved design.) Can also be used in a steering shaft setup
of a custom-built mini-rod pulling tractor as a type of U-joint with a maximum
35º rotational angle with either rubber flex coupler disc listed below.
Dimensions: 25/64" bolt holes spaced 3" apart x 5/8" center through-hole.
[Return To Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
-
Used and in excellent condition. OEM Cub Cadet part # 748-3001. $50.00
each, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in stock.)
-
New. (Cub Cadet part # 759-3009 bored to 5/8".) Replaces Cub Cadet part #
748-3001. $90.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
 Transaxle Input Shaft Coupler Arm with Self-Aligning
Spherical Bronze Swivel Bushing and Outer Steel Race/Retainer. Each fits
Cub Cadet garden tractor models 482, 580, 582, 682, 782, 782D, 800, 882,
1000, 1050, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1541, 1604,
1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812 and 1860. Dimensions: bolt
holes spaced 3" apart x 5/8" center through-hole. NOTE: This particular
part goes on the input shaft of the transaxle and not on the driveshaft.
-
Used and in excellent condition coupler arm with new bushing. OEM Cub Cadet
part #'s 703-1035 and 903-0794. $75.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
(When available or in stock.)
-
New coupler arm w/bushing. OEM Cub Cadet part #'s 703-1035 (same part as
listed below). $117.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
New coupler arm w/bushing. OEM Cub Cadet part #'s 903-0794 (same part as
listed above). $185.90 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
 5/8" Steel Ball. Fits IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractor models
800, 1000 and 1200. This ball is located at the end of the driveshaft
and inside the rear flex arm coupler (with the bronze swivel bushing; listed
above) and sometimes gets lost when removing the clutch assembly/driveshaft
from the tractor. It allows the driveshaft to "move side to side" with the
engine (that's mounted on rubber mounts). If it's left out, the clutch
assembly/driveshaft will move further back 5/8" when the clutch pedal is
depressed, and the clutch disc will not release and operate correctly. The
MTD-built models have no steel ball. The end of the [5/8" longer] driveshaft
is pointed, which fits in the pilot hole of the input shaft in the
transaxle.
-
High quality aftermarket. Made of chrome moly steel. $3.00 each, plus
shipping & handling.
-
OEM Cub Cadet part # 723-3022. $6.60 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Reinforced
Rubber Driveshaft Flex Coupler Disc. Designed specifically for Cub Cadet
"Quiet Line" garden tractor models 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 682, 782,
782D, 800, 882, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1050, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211,
1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1541, 1604, 1606, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810,
1811, 1812, 1860, 1872, 1912, 1914 and 2072. Can also be used on the IH Cub
Cadet "Original" garden tractor. All IH-built Cub Cadet models require one
flex coupler disc at each end of driveshaft, and all MTD-built Cub Cadet
models use two flex coupler discs at each end of driveshaft. Very tough,
reinforced rubber/weaved composite material. Allows for out-of-alignment
rotation of driveshaft in rubber ISO-mounted
engine tractors to prevent damage to the clutch parts or hydrostatic pump.
Has larger center hole than coupler listed above to clear housing in coupler
arm with self-aligning spherical bushing. Can be substituted for flex coupler
listed above. Can also be used in a steering shaft setup of a custom-built
mini-rod pulling tractor as a type of U-joint with a maximum 35º rotational
angle with coupler arm(s) listed above. 13/32" bolt holes spaced 3" apart.
OEM Cub Cadet part # 722-3000. $27.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Reinforced Rubber Driveshaft
Flex Coupler Disc. Designed specifically for IH Cub Cadet "Original"
garden tractor, and Cub Cadet hydrostatic drive garden tractor models 105,
107, 109, 123, 125, 127, 129, 147, 149 and 169. Cannot be used on the Cub
Cadet "Quiet Line" garden tractor models due to the small center hole. Very
tough, reinforced rubber/weaved composite material. Allows for out-of-alignment
rotation of driveshaft to prevent damage to hydrostatic pump. Can also be
used in a steering shaft setup of a custom-built mini-rod pulling tractor
as a type of U-joint with a maximum 35º rotational angle with coupler
arm(s) listed above. 13/32" bolt holes spaced 3" apart. OEM Cub Cadet part
# IH-376257-R3. $41.20 each, plus shipping & handling. |
The OEM Cub Cadet Hydrostatic Drive Garden Tractor Hub (shown
to the left in the photo below; Cub Cadet part # IH-394034-R32) in IH Cub
Cadet garden tractor models 105, 107, 109, 123, 125, 127, 129, 147, 149 and
169 is notorious for the slots becoming severely worn due to a slight
misalignment of the engine with the driveshaft. To fix this, replace this
hub with the parts shown to the right -> in the photo below. Because these
parts will last a lot longer, and they'll produce no noise. Modification
to the front of the driveshaft will need to be made.
Click here to contact A-1 Miller's
Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing,
and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance
and support and payment options. If you need a part or parts
that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll
see if we can get it at a reasonable price.
 |

The main cause of breakage of the OEM Cub Cadet garden tractor
aluminum hub adapter on competition pulling engines that run at wide open
throttle is using out-of-balance OEM pressure plates and OEM 3-pin clutch
drive plate, and/or not installing the large flat washer under the nut or
bolt (as described below Ê). So as long
as the drive plate and pressure plates are trued-up in a
metal lathe (with a self-centering 3-jaw chuck) so they'll
be perfectly round (to reduce premature pilot bushing wear, and resurfaced
until perfectly flat for better clutch adhesion) to remove the run-out or
wobble so they'll be precision balanced, this hub have been known to hold
up very well even in a highly modified competition pulling tractor as
long as the original 1/4" thick x no less than 1-1/4" O.D. flat washer is
installed under the flywheel nut or bolt with hardened 1/4" bolts w/split
lock washers to securely fasten the drive plate to the hub. Otherwise,
it's pretty tough.
Separate the Brake and Clutch Operations - (This have been
done by many professional pullers in the past.)
Cub Cadet garden tractors that have the brakes integrated with the clutch/brake
pedal, when applying the brakes on a competition pulling tractor that have
an extremely stiff clutch pressure spring (on the driveshaft), great effort
is required (strong leg muscles) to overcome and compress the clutch spring
before the brakes can be safely applied. When rolling the tractor off a trailer,
this also requires even greater effort to depress the clutch/brake pedal
to apply the brakes especially by hand (and arm muscles). What can be done
to change this is separate the brake(s) and the clutch operations by
disconnecting the brake linkage from the clutch/brake pedal cross shaft,
and fabricate a long upright lever (with an adjustable linkage) on the right
side of the steering column support pedestal which can be easily and effortlessly
pulled back (rearward) by hand to apply the brakes. The clutch/brake pedal
will then become just a "clutch pedal," and the lever will be the "brake
lever." This would make it much safer and easier to fully stop or slow the
tractor down a steep hill or when unloading the tractor down the ramp(s)
of a
utility trailer or
platform work table
than on the floor or ground. Also, a "parking brake" lock mechanism can be
installed on the brake lever-to-tractor frame to securely lock the brakes
in position to prevent the tractor from rolling or coasting when the tractor
is out of gear and the engine running.
If an OEM 3-pin clutch drive
plate is bent next to the drive studs (MTD) or coiled/spiral pin collars
(IH), to fix this:
-
Straighten the pins/collars with a hammer the best you can. Place a clutch
disc with unworn holes over the pins to ensure they're properly
straightened.
-
Securely weld each collar to the plate. Try to apply an even amount of
weld around each collar for proper balance and to reduce vibration. It's
also a good idea to weld the collars on a drive plate that's not bent, to
ensure it will not get bent in the future.
-
True-up all rotating clutch parts (OEM Cub Cadet drive plate and pressure
plates) in a
metal lathe (with a self-centering 3-jaw scroll chuck)
to reduce vibration, wear on the pilot bushing and possible driveshaft breakage
at high RPM or at
wide
open throttle. Because new OEM Cub Cadet pressure plates are made of
stamped steel and are not machined whatsoever. This means they are not perfectly
flat and they wobble from the factory. If used OEM pressure plates have not
been resurfaced before, then chances are, they'll still be thick enough after
being resurfaced. Always remove the minimal amount of metal to retain maximum
thickness so they will not warp when hot.
(IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable using
a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist with
a lathe.)
If the bronze pilot bushing in a drive plate is excessively worn, this means
that the OEM pressure plates are badly out of balance and/or there was no
grease applied to the bushing or on the driveshaft before installation of
the clutch assembly in the tractor. In either case, resurface the pressure
plates until they're perfectly flat and true-up the edge to prevent wobble
in a
metal lathe. IMPORTANT: To ensure true flatness when
resurfacing pressure plates, use a lathe that's in good condition with very
little wear on the ways! (IMPORTANT: If you
don't feel comfortable using a metal lathe, please consult a professional
and experienced machinist with a lathe.)
Advertisement: (Prices are subject to change without notice.)
Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for
FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support
and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or
parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this
website. |
Extra Thick Flywheel / Aluminum
Hub Adapter Retaining Washers. A must to secure flywheel and prevent OEM
Cub Cadet or billet aluminum hub adapter breakage. Each made of steel and
measures approximately 1/4" thick x 1-1/4" O.D.
-
Washers with 13/32" center hole. To be used with a crankshaft that have a
3/8" bolt, and/or aluminum hub adapter that have a 3/8" center hole.
-
A-1 Miller's part. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 12 468 03-S. $3.80 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Washer with 5/8" center hole. To be used with a crankshaft that have a 5/8"
stud, and/or aluminum hub adapter that have a 5/8" center hole. A-1 Miller
part. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # X-25-104. $5.00 each, plus
shipping & handling.
-
Washer with 3/4" center hole. To be used with a crankshaft that have a 3/4"
stud, and/or aluminum hub adapter that have a 3/4" center hole. A-1 Miller
part. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # X-25-71. $5.00 each, plus
shipping & handling.
|
Step Washer. Use to center
cast aluminum or billet hub adapter with a 5/8" hole to a crankshaft with
the 3/8" bolt on later model Kohler K-series and all Magnum engines. A must
to prevent severe wobble/vibration and prevent hub and/or driveshaft/clutch
breakage. Dimensions: 3/8" I.D. x 5/8" O.D. step x approximately 1-1/4" overall
O.D. x 1/2" overall height. Professionally machined by Brian Miller.
-
$12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Cub Cadet garden tractor
hub adapters with 5/8" center hole (early K-series), w/pulley, w/dowel pin.
-
Used and in excellent condition. OEM Kohler part # 41 071 03-S. $60.00
each, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in stock.)
-
New. OEM Kohler part # 41 071 03-S. $90.73 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
New. OEM Cub Cadet part # KH-41-071-03. $116.30 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
New. OEM Cub Cadet part # 759-3287. $204.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
Cub Cadet garden tractor hub
adapters with 5/8" center hole (early K-series), w/o pulley, w/dowel pin.
-
Used and in excellent condition. OEM Kohler part # 41 071 05-S. $60.00
each, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in stock.)
-
New. OEM Cub Cadet part # KH-41-071-05. $204.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
Cub Cadet garden tractor hub adapters with 3/8" center hole (later K-series,
all KT-series and Magnum), w/o pulley, w/dowel pin.
-
Used and in excellent condition. $40.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. (When available or in stock.)
-
New. OEM Kohler part # 52 755 61-S. $115.55 each, plus shipping &
handling.
|
1/4" diameter x 3/4" length
hardened steel dowel pin for OEM and billet aluminum hub adapters. Secures
aluminum hub to flywheel to prevent slippage. Replaces Cub Cadet part # KH-X-56-7
and Kohler part # X-56-7. $1.50 each, plus shipping & handling. |
Flywheel grass/safety steel
screen for use in IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractors with Kohler engine models
K161 and K181. 5-9/16" diameter.
-
New Old Stock or Used and in excellent condition. Discontinued OEM Kohler
part # 231819-S. $20.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When
available or in stock.)
|
Flywheel grass/safety steel
screen for use in IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractors with Kohler engine models
K241 and K301. 7" diameter.
-
Used and in excellent condition. $120.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. (When available or in stock.)
-
New. OEM Cub Cadet part # KH-235190 and OEM Kohler part # 235190-S.
$240.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
It's Very Important to Resurface and True-Up Worn and Warped OEM Cub
Cadet Pressure Plates! -
For any clutch disc to adhere or grip well and to prevent slippage, and to
reduce premature pilot bushing wear, both OEM pressure plates should be
resurfaced until they're perfectly flat in a
metal lathe. (IMPORTANT: If
you don't feel comfortable using a metal lathe, please consult a professional
and experienced machinist with a lathe.) The outer edge should
be trued-up in a metal lathe (with a self-centering 3-jaw chuck) so they'll
be perfectly round (to reduce premature pilot bushing wear, and resurfaced
until perfectly flat for better clutch adhesion), which can cause the pilot
bushing to wear excessively. For a used clutch assembly, chances are, the
composite clutch disc is worn to match the
wear on the pressure plates. If the clutch disc is worn, but still reusable,
it can be resurfaced in the lathe as well. For best clutch adhesion and to
lessen the chance of slippage, the clutch-to-pressure plates surface contact
areas must be flat against flat for 100% contact. Because new OEM Cub Cadet
garden tractor pressure plates are made of stamped steel and are not machined
whatsoever. This means they are not perfectly flat and they wobble from the
factory. If used pressure plates have not been resurfaced before, then chances
are, they'll still be thick enough after being resurfaced. Always remove
the minimal amount of metal to retain maximum thickness so they will not
warp when hot.
NOTE: Before reassembling the clutch assembly, apply a thin coat of automotive
grease on the area of the driveshaft where the throw-out bearing and where
the rear pressure plate slides back and forth. The grease will assure full
clutch disengagement, lessen wear to the driveshaft, and it will prevent
the rear pressure plate from sticking to the driveshaft due to rust if the
tractor is stored in a damp environment. Also, while the rear pressure plate
is off the driveshaft, to prevent it from binding on the 2nd
coiled/spiral pin, which can prevent the clutch from disengaging, widen the
slot slightly with a flat file or on the edge of the blade on a chopsaw.
(Be sure to wear safety glasses!) And it'll be a good idea to drill a small
hole near the center of the rear pressure plate to relieve the air that can
get trapped between the pressure plates.
Advertisement: (Prices are subject to change without notice.)
Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for
FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support
and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or
parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this
website. |
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Services -
FACT: New OEM Cub Cadet garden tractor pressure
plates from the factory are made of stamped steel (in a press) and NOT machined
whatsoever in a
metal lathe. This
means the clutch contact area
is not perfectly flat, which may cause the clutch disc to slip, and the outer
edge is somewhat egg-shape, which causes them to wobble, have
run-out and run out-of-balance, resulting in a worn pilot
bushing and slight vibration throughout the entire tractor. New unmachined
OEM pressure plates are exactly 3/16" thick. Therefore, minimal metal is
removed to maintain maximum thickness and diameter for full clutch
contact.
-
Professionally Machine
YOUR OEM Cub Cadet garden tractor drive clutch pressure plates. Service
Include: Resurface both clutch contact areas in my metal lathe until perfectly
flat with a slick, smooth surface so a new clutch friction disc will adhere
100% to prevent slippage; true-up outer edge in my metal lathe to prevent
wobble and out-of-balance rotation (which will cause the pilot bushing to
wear); and grind out worn slot(s) in rear hub until straight so clutch disc
will release easier. $30.00 labor for two pressure plates, plus return
shipping & handling.
-
Rebuild YOUR OEM Cub Cadet garden tractor drive clutch pressure plate(s).
Service Include: Replace heavily rusted/pitted pressure plate/disc (that
cannot be successfully machined without the plate/disc being too thin) with
a new steel plate; weld original center hub into new plate; machine new plate
until it's 100% round and perfectly flat; and grind out worn slot(s) in rear
hub so clutch disc will release easier. $75.00 each for parts and
labor, plus return shipping & handling.
-
New Front OEM Cub Cadet Pressure Plate. (With hole for spiral pin.) OEM Cub
Cadet part #'s IH-384651-R11, 903-0214. $123.70 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
New Rear OEM Cub Cadet Pressure Plate. (With slot for spiral pin.) OEM Cub
Cadet part #'s IH-384648-R21, IH-63815-C1, 903-0213. $180.05 each,
plus shipping & handling.
|
Warped OEM Cub Cadet garden tractor pressure plates will eventually allow
a single or even double clutch setup to slip. They warp due to overheating
when "slipping the clutch". When they get warped, they don't make full contact
with the entire surface of the clutch disc. Whenever a new clutch disc is
installed, rather if it's an OEM one or made of aluminum, the OEM pressure
plates should always be trued-up in a
metal lathe (with a self-centering 3-jaw chuck) so they'll
be perfectly round and resurfaced until perfectly flat for better clutch
adhesion. (IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable
using a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist
with a lathe.) New OEM pressure plates are stamped in a press
and not machined in a lathe. This means they're not as flat or turn as true
as ones that's been machined in a lathe. Therefore, if new or used OEM pressure
plates are going to be used for pulling or heavy lawn and garden use, have
the outer edge trued-up in a metal lathe (with a self-centering 3-jaw chuck)
so they'll be perfectly round and resurfaced until perfectly flat for better
clutch adhesion. Because new OEM pressure plates are made of stamped steel
and are not machined whatsoever. This means they are not perfectly flat and
they wobble from the factory. If used OEM pressure plates have not been
resurfaced before, then chances are, they'll still be thick enough after
being resurfaced. Always remove the minimal amount of metal to retain maximum
thickness so they will not warp when hot.
The OEM Cub Cadet garden tractor pressure plates are 3/16" (.188") thick.
On the average, approximately .005" of metal is removed from the face of
each pressure plate after it have been resurfaced. Removing this much metal
will not weaken the plates whatsoever, even when used with a very stout pressure
spring.
With both OEM pressure plates properly resurfaced until perfectly flat, the
OEM composite clutch, with 4-1/2" diameter OEM pressure plates, have a total
disc to plate contact area of 17.7 square inches. The aluminum disc on the
other hand (as described in this web site), have a total contact area of
29.8 square inches. You may look at this disc and ask, "where's the friction
material?" Well, the aluminum itself is the friction material. The aluminum
disc will adhere to (grip) steel a lot better than a
composite clutch disc. Both of these type
of clutch types, when used with a high pressure
red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring, have been proven
to hold very well in heavy pulling. IMPORTANT: To ensure true flatness
when resurfacing pressure plates, use a lathe that's in good condition with
very little wear on the ways!
Save the Hubs!
If the discs in your OEM pressure plates are heavily rusted, worn too thin
or warped badly and resurfacing them in a lathe didn't do any good, instead
of making two entirely new pressure plates, what could be done is remove
the center hub from each disc with a
hydraulic press and reuse the hubs to make two new pressure
plates. This would save from having to fabricate a couple of new hubs.
If the center hole in the slotted hub of the rear [sliding] pressure plate
is worn oblong (rare), the hole can be repaired by boring it true in a
metal lathe, and a steel sleeve bushing will need to be
pressed in and welded in to prevent it from coming loose, and the hole in
the bushing will need to be center-bored to .626". The slot will need to
be carefully ground out in the bushing to match the slot in the hub using
the blade in an electric chop saw with a metal cut-off wheel. Finally, the
face of the pressure plate can be trued-up in a metal lathe (with a
self-centering 3-jaw chuck) so they'll be perfectly round and resurfaced
until perfectly flat for better clutch adhesion. (Remember to wear safety
glasses!) (IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable
using a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist
with a lathe.)
Use distilled
white vinegar to remove rust from inside gas tanks, tools, bolts/nuts,
clutch OEM pressure plates or virtually any steel or cast iron part:
vinegar rust removal - YouTube.
Use ALUMINUM as Clutch Disc Material!
If a single composite clutch disc slips in
a stock competition pulling tractor, then what is required to prevent clutch
slippage is to install a single piece of machined aluminum to serve as a
clutch disc. With resurfaced OEM pressure plates and a
high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow
(1,150± lb.) spring, aluminum should grip and hold up well when
used in a stock competition pulling tractor. By the way, the OEM sandwiched
steel composite clutch disc and an
aluminum clutch disc weighs almost the
same; about 10.6 ounces each.
The aluminum clutch disc works best for
low RPM stock engines. If an aluminum clutch
disc is used, there's no need to install three extra studs in the 3-pin
drive plate (see below Ê ). But definitely
have both OEM pressure plates resurfaced as described above
È. Depending on the size of engine and
weight of tractor, the aluminum clutch disc
require a tougher driveshaft along with a high pressure
red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring. And it'll be
a good idea to install a center support bearing
(center support pillow block bearing and
brace) to prevent the driveshaft from wobbling at 4,000 RPM.
The
biggest mistake a puller can make when launching a tractor is letting the
clutch out all of a sudden with the engine revved up. So when using aluminum
as a clutch disc (or any metallic clutch material), and when the tractor
is hooked to the sled, always remember to "slip" the clutch upon take-off.
To do this, first rev up the engine (a lot), then slowly ease out on the
clutch pedal. Because an
aluminum clutch
disc may not "slip" at low RPM, and because aluminum
adheres to steel very well when under pressure, if the pedal is let out all
of a sudden with the engine revved up, and if the tires don't spin, something
could break or get damaged in the drive train or transaxle. The 5/8" zinc-plated
steel split lock washer that's placed between the pressure plates will aide
greatly in smooth clutch engagement/release and it lessens the possibility
of the clutch from "grabbing" upon take-off.
Advertisement: (Prices are subject to change without notice.)
Click here to contact A-1 Miller's
Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing,
and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance
and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need
a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in
this website. |
Composite Clutch Discs -
High quality aftermarket composite
material 6" O.D. clutch disc for all models of Cub Cadet clutch drive garden
tractors. Made of very tough and long-lasting material suitable for heavy
duty yard and garden use or competition pulling tractors. Comes with 6 drive
holes; can be used with an OEM or aftermarket 3- or 6-pin/stud drive plate.
Replaces Cub Cadet part # 961-3002. $40.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
OEM Cub Cadet garden tractor 6" O.D. clutch disc with 3 drive holes. Must
be used with a 3-pin/stud drive plate. Reinforced composite material with
sandwiched steel. Listed for use in Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86,
100, 102, 104, 106, 108, 122, 124, 126, 128, 580, 582, 800, 1000, 1200, 1604
and 1606. OEM Cub Cadet part # 961-3002. $74.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
OEM Cub Cadet garden tractor 6-1/2" O.D. clutch disc with 3 drive holes.
Must be used with a 3-pin/stud drive plate. Reinforced composite material
with sandwiched steel. Listed for use in Cub Cadet models 1050, 1535 and
1806. OEM Cub Cadet part # 961-3011. $72.25 each, plus shipping &
handling. [Return To Previous Section,
Paragraph or Website]
IMPORTANT - It is highly recommended that both OEM
pressure plates be trued-up in a metal lathe (with a self-centering 3-jaw
chuck) so they'll be perfectly round and resurfaced until perfectly flat
for better clutch adhesion or severe clutch slippage will likely result!
Because new OEM pressure plates are made of stamped steel and are not machined
in a lathe whatsoever. If used OEM pressure plates have not been resurfaced
before, then chances are, they'll still be thick enough after being resurfaced.
Always remove the minimal amount of metal to retain maximum thickness so
they will not warp when hot.
FYI - About 90% of the composite material in clutch discs will
chip off were the holes are due to the following reasons:
-
The composite material is so hard (for long wear), it's actually brittle
and will easily chip off or break when mishandled.
-
Sometimes when installing the engine in the tractor, the composite material
will chip off when sliding the drive pins or studs into the clutch disc.
-
The holes in the composite material will sometimes chip off and/or wear larger
under normal use because the three OEM drive pins or studs place pressure
against the holes. When the original three holes wear extremely large, a
new hole can be precision-drilled between the original holes and the clutch
disc can be reused.
-
Using the OEM Cub Cadet garden tractor clutch drive plate with three additional
drive studs precision-drilled and installed or an aftermarket 6-pin drive
plate with a 6-hole clutch disc (three additional holes drilled) will place
50% less pressure and reduce the amount of wear against each hole. The more
drive pins or studs the drive plate has, less wear to the holes will result
in the clutch disc. The drive plate and clutch disc can have as many as 9
or 12 drive pins and holes.
|
A-1 Miller's Original Machined Aluminum Clutch Disc Kit. This
is an alternate and direct replacement for the
OEM-type composite material clutch disc. Kit
include 6-hole aluminum clutch disc, 5/8" I.D. split lock washer (goes in
center of aluminum disc and between OEM pressure plates (provides smooth
clutch engagement and guaranteed release) and steel spacer (replaces OEM
teasing spring). Precision machined of high quality 6061 alloy medium-grade
hardness aluminum. Drive holes are drilled 13/32" for minimum clutch disc
noise/rattle and less chance of breakage to the drive pins/studs. IMPORTANT:
Use only with the red (800± lb.) or yellow
(1,150± lb.) pressure spring and not the OEM spring to prevent clutch
slippage. A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please
do not accept advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate
them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.)
IMPORTANT! It is highly recommended that both OEM
pressure plates be trued-up in a metal lathe (with a self-centering 3-jaw
chuck) so they'll be perfectly round and resurfaced until perfectly flat
for better clutch adhesion or severe clutch slippage will likely result!
Because new OEM pressure plates are made of stamped steel and are not machined
in a lathe whatsoever. If used OEM pressure plates have not been resurfaced
before, then chances are, they'll still be thick enough after being resurfaced.
Always remove the minimal amount of metal to retain maximum thickness so
they will not warp and become
convexed when hot.
CUB CADET
124 WORK PART 2 - YouTube
-
Aluminum Clutch Disc Kit. Includes 5/8" I.D. Zinc-Plated Steel Split
Lock Washer and Steel Spacer. $30.00 per kit, plus shipping &
handling.
Click here to contact A-1 Miller's
Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing,
and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance
and support and payment options. If you need a part or parts
that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll
see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of
Page] |
Cub Cadet Garden
Tractor Clutch Disc Anti-Rattle Spring. Reduces annoying clutch disc rattle
on drive pins/studs and reduces wear to drive holes in clutch disc. Although
one spring may be sufficient to reduce clutch noise, it may be necessary
to install three springs (one for each pin/stud) for 100% reduced clutch
noise. Can be used on composite or aluminum clutch discs. NOTE: Recommended
for up to 4,000 RPM engines. Not for use on high RPM or wide open throttle
competition pulling tractors due to normal engine harmonic vibrations that
travels out into the clutch assembly, this can create the possibility of
the spring(s) becoming dislodged, which could become a hazardous airborne
projectile if clutch is not properly shielded 360º. So if possible,
install these springs with the coil between the clutch disc and drive plate,
opposite that is shown in the photo to the right, to prevent them from coming
off.
CUB CADET
124 WORK PART 2 - YouTube
|
How to Get a composite or the Aluminum Clutch Disc to Engage Smoothly
-
The OEM Cub Cadet garden tractor clutch cushion spring (as it is called in
the early/narrow frame Cub Cadet garden tractors) or teasing spring (as it
is called in the later models/wide and spread frame Cub Cadet garden tractors)
goes between the rear pressure plate and clutch
release/throw-out bearing. It's purpose is to allow the rear pressure
plate to gently press against the clutch disc as the clutch is engaged without
having a "jerky" clutch. When using an aluminum
clutch disc, the teasing spring can be replaced with a steel spacer or
a stack of small outside diameter flat washers (the ones that originally
comes on Cub Cadet garden tractor driveshafts) and an ordinary, zinc-plated
steel split lock washer. Install the lock washer between the pressure plates
(dead center of the clutch disc) for a smoother clutch engagement. Clutch
slippage may result if used with the OEM Cub Cadet garden tractor clutch
pressure spring. Therefore, the aluminum clutch
disc should be used with a stiffer-than-stock pressure spring, such as
the high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow
(1,150± lb.) spring.
For the narrow-frame Cub Cadet
garden tractors, the steel spacer needs to be 3/8" in length. (The teasing
spring is compressed to 3/8" when the clutch is fully engaged.) And for Cub
Cadet garden tractor models 86, 108, 128, 800, 1000, 1200 and 1535, the spacer
needs to 5/8" length or use the OEM protective cup/spacer (for the teasing)
that originally comes on the driveshaft, but leave the teasing spring out.
By the way - the small end of the protective cup/spacer goes against the
clutch release/throw-out bearing. If a too
long of a spacer or the protective spacer/cup is used in a narrow frame model,
the clutch release/throw-out bearing would
set too far back on the driveshaft and when the clutch/brake pedal is depressed,
the release lever will make contact with the
steering box and the clutch will not be able to release.
To prevent the teasing spring
from possibly breaking and to help the clutch(es) to engage more smoothly,
simply don't use the teasing spring. Instead, replace where the teasing spring
goes on the driveshaft with a piece of heavy wall round steel tubing that
measures 7/8" O.D. x 3/8" (narrow frame) or 5/8" (wide frame) long x 41/64"
I.D. Then install an ordinary zinc-plated 5/8" I.D. split lock washer between
the pressure plates, dead center of the clutch disc. Lock washers have a
spring-like action too, plus they'll last a lot longer than a teasing spring.
The lock washer does two things - it acts like a spring, which forces the
pressure plates apart, it provides smooth clutch engagement and it'll help
to prevent the possibility of the clutch disc from "grabbing" upon take-off.
In addition, the spring-like action of the lock washer will expand the pressure
plates when the clutch/brake pedal is fully depressed so they will release
from the clutch disc. Doing this will guarantee that the clutch will engage
smoothly and release every time. So when reassembling a clutch assembly,
don't install the teasing spring. Instead, install the spacer and lock washer
as described above È. You'll be glad
you did.
Or for a bullet-proof teasing spring setup, and/or if the
aluminum clutch disc doesn't engage smoothly,
instead of using the 5/8" lock washer between the pressure plates and the
teasing spring or a steel spacer, install a flat washer, the 5/8" lock washer,
then another flat washer until they all total to about 3/8" or 5/8" in height
with the lock washer fully uncompressed.
The correct order of installing Cub Cadet garden tractor clutch parts on
the driveshaft is listed below Ê. NOTE:
Before reassembling the clutch assembly, apply a thin coat of automotive
grease on the area of the driveshaft where the throw-out bearing and where
the rear pressure plate slides back and forth. The grease will assure full
clutch disengagement, lessen wear to the driveshaft, and it will prevent
the rear pressure plate from sticking to the driveshaft due to rust if the
tractor is stored in a damp environment. Also, while the rear pressure plate
is off the driveshaft, to prevent it from binding on the 2nd
coiled/spiral pin, which can prevent the clutch from disengaging, widen the
slot slightly with a flat file or on the edge of the blade on a chopsaw.
(Be sure to wear safety glasses!) And it'll be a good idea to drill a small
hole near the center of the rear pressure plate to relieve the air that can
get trapped between the pressure plates.
1. Install 3rd coiled/spiral pin then the main
pressure spring.
2. Install clutch release/throw-out bearing
(small end facing forward of tractor).
3. Install release lever .
4. Install protective spacer/cup (small end goes against
clutch release/throw-out bearing).
5. Install teasing spring (for a fiber clutch disc) or steel spacer (for
an aluminum clutch disc). |
6. Compress the pressure spring and install the 2nd coiled/spiral
pin.
7. Install pressure plate w/slotted hub.
8. Install zinc-plated steel split lock washer (use only with the aluminum
clutch disc and very stiff pressure spring).
9. Install clutch disc.
10. Install pressure plate w/solid hub, then the 1st coiled/spiral
pin. |
How to Replace a Broken Teasing Spring on a Cub Cadet Garden Tractor
Driveshaft (with the driveshaft in the tractor) - (Added 8/28/17)
-
Lock (depress) the clutch/brake pedal down with the lever against the pedal
stop, which is a small angled steel spot-welded to the tractor frame.
-
Remove the engine from the tractor.
-
Place a heavy flat bar across the tractor frame to support the very end of
the driveshaft. This so the coiled/spiral pins for the pressure plates can
be removed.
-
Use a 1/4" roll pin punch to drive out the coiled/spiral pin from the front
pressure plate.
-
Remove the heavy flat bar and remove both pressure plates along with the
clutch disc from the driveshaft
-
Place the heavy flat bar across the frame (again), and drive out the second
coiled/spiral pin from the driveshaft.
-
Remove the heavy flat bar and the teasing spring can be removed.
-
Before installing the new teasing spring, apply a thin coat of automotive
grease on the driveshaft. The grease will assure full clutch disengagement,
lessen wear to the driveshaft, and it will prevent the rear pressure plate
from sticking to the driveshaft due to rust if the tractor is stored in a
damp environment.
-
Reinstall the teasing spring and everything else on the driveshaft in reverse
order of removal.
-
When everything is back on the driveshaft, apply a thin coat of automotive
grease inside the pilot bushing, and reinstall the engine in the tractor
and unlock the clutch/brake pedal from the pedal stop.
-
The clearance between the clutch release/throw-out
bearing and clutch release lever will need
to be set by turning the self-locking nut on the lower threaded clutch release
rod one way or the other until approximately 9/32" of clearance is obtained
between the clutch/brake pedal stop. This allows for about .050" or 1/16"
clearance between the clutch release/throw-out
bearing and clutch release lever. And to
prevent the throw-out bearing from wearing against the release lever, make
sure the correct length pedal return spring
is installed, too!
The Clutch Pedal Return Spring and Maintaining
Proper Clutch Adjustment -

Install the clutch pedal return spring to prevent from wearing
both the clutch release/throw-out bearing
and release lever. Don't just install a cotter
pin in place of it. A pedal return spring is a short, very stiff, expansion
spring with a hook on each end. The size is approximately 3/4" diameter x
2-1/8" in overall length. And do not "ride the clutch"! Take your foot
off the clutch pedal when the tractor is in motion.
The return spring connects from the hole in the end of the clutch
adjustment/release rod to a hole in the cross member that's in the tractor's
frame. Install one end of the spring in the linkage first, then install the
other end in the cross member. NOTE: It may be difficult to get the end
of the spring in the hole because of the tension, but it can be done and
it MUST be done. (I do it all the time with our muscles, Vise Grips and a
little leverage from our trusty small pry bar.)
If a pedal return spring is not installed or if the operator "rides the clutch"
when pulling or when the tractor is in operation (keeping one's foot on the
clutch pedal at all times), this will cause the
clutch release/throw-out bearing to spin
the same speed as the engine, wearing it out prematurely. This will also
wear the release lever as well. So making the
proper adjustment and not "riding the clutch" will help the
clutch release/throw-out bearing last a very
long time. The return spring connects from the hole in the end of the clutch
adjustment/release rod to a hole in the cross member in the tractor's frame.
NOTE: It may be somewhat difficult to get the end of the spring in the
hole because of the tension, but it can be done, and it must be done. (I
do it all the time with our Vise Grips and a little leverage from our trusty
small pry bar.)
How to Set the Correct Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Drive Clutch Adjustment
-
When the clutch/brake pedal
is fully disengaged (not depressed), no part of the
clutch release/throw-out bearing is supposed
to make contact with the clutch release lever.
Otherwise, the clutch
release/throw-out bearing will turn the same RPM as the engine. If
these continually make contact with the engine running and while the tractor
is in motion, the driveshaft will continually spin the
throw-out bearing, causing it to overheat
and eventually burn-out, and the contact area on the
release lever will likely to wear excessively.
The excessive heat from the overheated throw-out bearing could travel into
and weaken (damage) the front end of the main pressure spring too, making
it place less pressure against the clutch disc. This will occur with ordinary
lawn and garden, and competition pulling tractors alike. Therefore, to set
the correct clearance and "safe" operating distance between the
throw-out
bearing and release lever, with the
clutch/brake pedal fully disengaged (not depressed) and the clutch/brake
pedal arm/lever against the pedal stop, which is a small angled steel spot-welded
to the tractor frame, and with a pedal return spring installed, turn the
self-locking nut on the L-shape clutch adjustment/release rod (that's on
the lower part of the release lever) until there's
9/32" - 5/16" of clearance between the pedal arm/lever and pedal stop. This
will allow for .050" - .060" (approximately 1/16") of clearance between the
throw-out
bearing and release lever. The clutch
disc should release fully from the pressure plates and the driveshaft should
immediately stop rotating with the engine running when the pedal is depressed.
Use a
9/16" size boxed-in ratcheting wrench to
make the Cub Cadet garden tractor clutch adjustment much easier. And an accurate
way to check for the correct clearance between the
clutch release/throw-out bearing and clutch
release lever is to use a 7mm or 5/16" rod or
square stock as a thickness gauge. When the self-locking nut on the L-shape
adjustment/release rod is turned clockwise (when facing the front of the
tractor), this decreases the clearance, and when the nut is turned
counterclockwise, this increases the clearance. Also, if a tractor doesn't
already have one, definitely install a pedal return spring
(extension spring) of the correct length on the clutch
adjustment/release rod to the hole in the cross member that's welded between
the frame rails so pressure from the release lever
will be taken off the clutch release/throw-out
bearing when the clutch/brake pedal is fully disengaged (not depressed)
to prevent from premature and excessive wearing of the clutch release/throw-out
bearing and/or release lever.
[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
To disassemble the clutch components from the driveshaft, this is how
I do it:
-
In a large bench vise, remove the coiled/spiral pin in the front pressure
plate.
-
Remove from vise and slide off both pressure plates and clutch disc.
-
Firmly clamp the front of the driveshaft in the vise, and with a 3-4 lb.
hammer, drive the driveshaft forward from the rear to release pressure off
the teasing spring.
-
Drive out the teasing spring.
-
Carefully remove the driveshaft from the vise because the pressure spring
is under a lot of tension.
-
Now everything can be removed from the driveshaft.
For safety, a
hydraulic press should be used to compress the large pressure
spring on the driveshaft to reassemble the clutch components!
-
Apply a light coat of automotive grease where the
clutch release/throw-out bearing slides back
and forth on the driveshaft. The grease will assure full clutch disengagement,
lessen wear to the driveshaft, and it will prevent the rear pressure plate
from sticking to the driveshaft due to rust if the tractor is stored in a
damp environment.
-
Install the pressure spring, clutch release/throw-out
bearing (the protruding part of the clutch release/throw-out bearing,
the part that sticks out, faces forward in the tractor), clutch
release lever and teasing spring or steel spacer
(optional) on the driveshaft, and place the driveshaft in the
hydraulic press with the front facing down.
-
Apply pressure on the rear of the driveshaft until the second coiled/spiral
pin hole clears the teasing spring, then slide a 1/4" bolt in the hole, then
release the pressure on the driveshaft.
-
Remove the driveshaft from the press and firmly clamp the front of the driveshaft
in the vise, and with the 3-4 lb. hammer, drive the driveshaft forward from
the rear so the 1/4" bolt can be removed.
-
Install a 1/4" coiled/spiral pin in the second coiled/spiral pin hole.
-
Remove the driveshaft from the vise.
-
Install the rear pressure plate, 5/8" zinc-plated steel split lock washer
(optional), clutch disc and front pressure plate.
-
Again, firmly clamp the front of the driveshaft in the vise, and with the
3-4 lb. hammer, drive the driveshaft forward from the rear so the first
coiled/spiral pin hole is aligned with the hole in the front pressure plate.
-
Install the coiled/spiral pin.
-
The clutch assembly is now completely reassembled.
To test how well the clutch will release out of the tractor, place the clutch
assembly in the
hydraulic press with each end of the
release lever on a couple of blocks, and apply
slight downward pressure on the end of the driveshaft. The clutch disc should
rotate or "move around" freely without binding. If the disc doesn't rotate
or binds, redo your work to find out what went wrong.
How to Fix a "Sticking" Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Drive Clutch (when it
will not release) -
Before reassembling the clutch assembly, apply a thin coat of automotive
grease on the area of the driveshaft where the throw-out bearing and where
the rear pressure plate slides back and forth. The grease will assure full
clutch disengagement, lessen wear to the driveshaft, and it will prevent
the rear pressure plate from sticking to the driveshaft due to rust if the
tractor is stored in a damp environment. Also, while the rear pressure plate
is off the driveshaft, to prevent it from binding on the 2nd
coiled/spiral pin, which can prevent the clutch from disengaging, widen the
slot slightly with a flat file or on the edge of the blade on a chopsaw.
(Be sure to wear safety glasses!) And it'll be a good idea to drill a small
hole near the center of the rear pressure plate to relieve the air that can
get trapped between the pressure plates.
The Much Over-Looked Clutch Release Lever
Clevis Pin -
If the straight 3/8" diameter
OEM Cub Cadet garden tractor
clevis pivot pin that goes through the clutch hanger bracket
and release lever is worn, this part should be
replaced with an angled pivot pin. As the engine runs with the clutch
fully engaged (foot off the clutch pedal, of course), due to normal engine
vibration and slight out-of-balance rotating clutch parts, the OEM round
pin continually spins, causing the pin itself and the holes in the hanger
bracket to wear. The holes in the release lever
rarely wear because the entire lever is made of hardened, heat-treated steel.
By replacing the round pin with an angled pin (with the short end long enough
to make contact with the tractor frame or hanger bracket), it can't spin.
Therefore, there'll be much less wear on the pin and holes, the
clutch release/throw-out bearing will last
longer, there'll be less noise coming from the clutch parts, clutch operation
will be smoother, and clutch adjustment will remain the same for a longer
time. (I think the engineers at IH Cub Cadet should have originally installed
an angled pin in their tractors. But then again, they probably didn't plan
on their tractors being in use 40-50 years later.)
Advertisement: (Prices are subject to change without notice.)
Click here to contact A-1 Miller's
Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing,
and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance
and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need
a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in
this website. |
Clevis/Hinge/Pivot
Pins for clutch release lever bracket/lever in
Cub Cadet garden tractors. The 90º/angled/L-shape clevis/hinge/pivot
pin is an alternative to using the OEM straight clevis/hinge/pivot pin or
a grade 8 bolt and lock nut. The short part of the L-shape pin makes contact
with the pedestal assembly (narrow frame tractors) or hanger bracket (wide/spread
frame tractors) to prevent the holes in the hanger bracket and
release lever from wearing oblong due to constant
spinning of the OEM straight pin from normal engine vibration. The L-shape
pin lessens clutch noise/rattle, reduces wasted free-play in clutch pedal
travel, maintains proper release lever to throw-out bearing adjustment, and
allows for smoother and less "sloppy" clutch operation. The
90º/angled/L-shape clevis/hinge/pivot pin is A proven, ingenious and
innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please do not accept advertised copycat
products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity
and intelligence.)
-
90º/Angled/L-shape Clevis/Hinge/Pivot Pin w/cotter pin. Fits Cub Cadet
narrow frame clutch drive garden tractor models: 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102,
104, 106, 122, 124 and 126. NOTE: Please specify
model of tractor when ordering. Fabricated by A-1 Miller's.
Replaces Cub Cadet straight pin part # 911-3044. $20.00 each, plus
shipping & handling.
-
90º/Angled/L-shape Clevis/Hinge/Pivot Pin w/cotter pin. Fits Cub Cadet
wide and spread frame clutch drive garden tractor models: 86, 128, 580, 582,
800, 1000, 1050, 1200, 1604, 1606 and 1806.
NOTE: Please specify model of tractor when
ordering. Fabricated by A-1 Miller's. Replaces discontinued
Cub Cadet straight pin part # 911-0755. $20.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
High quality aftermarket straight clevis/hinge/pivot pin. Fits Cub Cadet
narrow frame clutch drive garden tractor models: 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102,
104, 106, 122, 124 and 126. NOTE: Please specify
model of tractor when ordering. Fabricated by A-1 Miller's.
Replaces Cub Cadet part # 911-3044. $5.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
High quality aftermarket straight clevis/hinge/pivot pin. Fits Cub Cadet
wide and spread frame clutch drive garden tractor models: 86, 108, 128, 580,
582, 800, 1000, 1050, 1200, 1604, 1606 and 1806.
NOTE: Please specify model of tractor when
ordering. Fabricated by A-1 Miller's. Replaces discontinued
Cub Cadet part # part # 911-0755. $5.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
Straight clevis pin. Fits Cub Cadet narrow frame clutch drive garden tractor
models: 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124 and 126. OEM Cub Cadet
part # 911-3044. $9.90 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
New
Clutch Hanger Brackets. Fits IH Cub Cadet narrow frame garden tractor models
70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124 and 126. It's recommended
that the angled-shaped clevis/hinge/pivot pin (listed above) be used with
these parts to reduce wear to holes.
-
High quality aftermarket. Made of thicker metal than OEM for longer wear.
Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-384656-R2. $40.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-384656-R2. $40.50 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Weld up worn/oblong clutch
release lever pivot pin holes in YOUR clutch hanger bracket, redrill holes
and grind smooth. $20.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling.
|
New
Clutch Hanger Bracket. Fits IH Cub Cadet wide frame garden tractor models
86, 108, 128, 800, 1000 and 1200. Also for models 1250, 1450 and 1650 with
a hydrostatic disconnect attachment. It's recommended that the angled-shaped
clevis/hinge/pivot pin (listed above) be used with these parts to reduce
wear to holes.
-
Used and in excellent condition. $60.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. (When available or in stock.)
-
New. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-547629-R1. $119.45 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Weld up worn/oblong clutch
release lever pivot pin holes in YOUR clutch hanger bracket, redrill holes
and grind smooth. $20.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling.
|
New
Clutch Hanger Bracket. Fits IH- or MTD-built Cub Cadet spread frame garden
tractor models 580, 582, 1050, 1604, 1606 and 1806. May also fit model 1535.
It's recommended that the angled-shaped clevis/hinge/pivot pin (listed
above) be used with these parts to reduce wear to holes.
-
New Old Stock or used and in excellent condition. Discontinued Cub Cadet
part # 759-3548. $80.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When
available or in stock.)
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Weld up worn/oblong clutch
release lever pivot pin holes in YOUR clutch hanger bracket, redrill holes
and grind smooth. $20.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling.
|
New
Clutch Hanger Bracket. Fits MTD-built Cub Cadet spread frame garden tractor
model 1535. May also fit models 580, 582, 1050, 1604, 1606 and 1806. Requires
shoulder bolt w/locknut.
-
Used and in excellent condition. $50.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. (When available or in stock.)
-
New. OEM Cub Cadet part # 703-2000-0637. $91.45 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Weld up worn/oblong clutch
release lever pivot pin holes in YOUR clutch hanger bracket, redrill holes
and grind smooth. $20.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling.
|
 Clutch Release
Levers. Each fits Cub Cadet narrow frame garden tractor models 70, 71,
72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124 and 126.
-
Stock-length clutch release lever. 7-7/8" overall length. New old stock or
used and in excellent condition. Discontinued Cub Cadet part # IH-384657-R5.
$65.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in
stock.)
-
3" longer-than-stock heavy duty clutch release lever. 10-7/8" overall length.
Can be used for general lawn & garden work or competition pulling for
easier clutch/brake pedal depression. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-384657-R5.
$80.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Weld up and grind smooth
worn [throw-out bearing] areas in your OEM clutch release lever.
$30.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling.
 Clutch Release Levers. Each fits Cub Cadet wide frame garden
tractor models 86, 108 and 128, but can be used in models 800, 1000 and 1200
with solid motor mounts installed.
-
New. Stock-length clutch release lever w/round opening. 8-1/4" overall length.
OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-547631-R2. $116.20 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
3" longer-than-stock heavy duty clutch release lever w/oblong opening. 11-1/4"
overall length. Can be used for general lawn & garden work or competition
pulling for easier clutch/brake pedal depression. Replaces Cub Cadet part
# IH-547631-R2$80.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Weld up and grind smooth
worn [throw-out bearing] areas in your OEM clutch release lever.
$30.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling.
 Clutch Release Levers. Each fits Cub Cadet wide frame garden
tractor models 800, 1000 and 1200, but can be used in models 86, 108 and
128 with no modifications. Also fits models 1250, 1450 and 1650 with a
hydrostatic disconnect attachment.
-
New. Stock-length clutch release lever w/oblong opening. 8-1/4" overall length.
OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-61461-C2. $106.95 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
3" longer-than-stock heavy duty clutch release lever w/oblong opening. 11-1/4"
overall length. Can be used for general lawn & garden work or competition
pulling for easier clutch/brake pedal depression. Replaces Cub Cadet part
# IH-61461-C2. $80.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Weld up and grind smooth
worn [throw-out bearing] areas in your OEM clutch release lever.
$30.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling.
Clutch Release Levers. Each
fits IH- and MTD-built Cub Cadet spread frame garden tractor models 580,
582, 1050, 1535, 1604, 1606 and 1806.
-
New. Stock-length clutch release lever w/oblong opening. 9-3/4" overall length.
OEM Cub Cadet part # 703-0218-0637. $75.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
3" longer-than-stock heavy duty clutch release lever w/oblong opening. 12-3/4"
overall length. Can be used for general lawn & garden work or competition
pulling for easier clutch/brake pedal depression. Replaces Cub Cadet part
# 703-0218-0637. $80.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Weld up and grind smooth
worn [throw-out bearing] areas in your OEM clutch release lever.
$30.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling.
[Return To Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
|
Clutch
Adjustment/Release Rod. Fits IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor. Length:
6-9/16" from middle of bend to end of threads.
-
New. Fabricated by A-1 Miller's. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part #
IH-376277-R1. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Repair YOUR worn clutch operating rod for a snug fit in [repaired hole of]
clutch arm (listed above). $20.00 labor, plus return shipping &
handling.
Clutch Adjustment/Release Rod.
Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106,
122, 124 and 126. Washer welded on rod; can be used for general yard and
garden work or competition pulling. Length: 9"
from middle of bend to end of threads.
-
New. Fabricated by A-1 Miller's. Replaces
discontinued Cub Cadet part # IH-405590-R1.
$40.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Clutch Adjustment/Release Rods.
Each fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 86, 108, 128, 800, 1000 and 1200
(models 800, 1000 and 1200 with caliper/axle brakes.) Washer welded on rod;
can be used for general yard and garden work or competition
pulling. Length: 11-1/16" from middle of bend to
end of threads. NOTE: Clutch adjustment/release rod for Cub Cadet garden
tractor models 800, 1000 and 1200 with the internal brake
no longer available from Cub Cadet (part #
IH-117338-C2).
-
New. Fabricated by A-1 Miller's. Modified Cub Cadet part
# IH-544133-R3. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
New. OEM Cub Cadet part# IH-544133-R3. $58.35 each, plus shipping
& handling.
Clutch Adjustment/Release Rod.
Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 580, 582, 1050, 1535, 1604, 1606 and
1806. Washer welded on rod; can be used for general yard and garden work
or competition pulling. Length: 11-9/64" from middle
of bend to end of threads.
-
New. Fabricated by A-1 Miller's. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part #
747-3021A. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Custom
Length 3/8" Diameter Clutch Adjustment/Release Rods Made Upon Request. When
ordering, please specify length of threads, and length from end of threads
to inside bend, and length of short angled part to inside bend, and where
the hole for the cotter pin needs to be drilled. |
Nylon Insert
Self-Locking Nuts for 3/8" diameter threaded L-shape clutch adjustment/release
rods listed above. Replace OEM adjusting nut with worn threads to maintain
correct clutch adjustment on virtually all Cub Cadet clutch drive garden
tractors. Grade 8 material with 3/8-24 UNF threads. NOTE: Use a (9/16"
size)
boxed-in ratcheting wrench for much easier and precise
clutch adjustment.
-
High quality aftermarket nylon insert self-locking nut. $1.50 each,
plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Cub Cadet nylon insert self-locking nut, part # 912-3061. $5.55
each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Clutch Release
Tension Compression Springs. Fits all models of Cub Cadet clutch drive garden
tractors. Slides over threaded end of 3/8" diameter L-shape clutch
release/adjustment rod (listed above). A must for proper adjustment in Cub
Cadet clutch drive garden tractors to prevent premature wear to
clutch release/throw-out bearing and clutch
release lever, and to prevent annoying rattling
sound when the clearance between the throw-out
bearing and release lever is set correctly.
-
High quality aftermarket. Dimensions: 13/32" I.D. x 3-3/4" uncompressed length.
$5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Cub Cadet part # 932-3023. $18.25 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Clutch
Pedal Return Spring. 2-1/2" Unextended Length. Fits Cub Cadet garden
tractor models 70, 71, 72, 100, 102, 104, 105, 122, 123, 124 and 125. Replace
damaged, weak or missing pedal return spring to prevent premature (and expensive)
wear to clutch release/throw-out bearing
and clutch release lever, and to prevent annoying
rattling sound when the clearance between the
throw-out bearing and release lever is adjusted correctly. OEM spring
no longer available from Cub Cadet.
-
Heavy duty, high quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part
# IH-370278-R2. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Clutch Pedal Return Springs.
2-3/4" Unextended Length. Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 73, 86, 106,
107, 108, 109, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 580, 582, 1604, 1606, brakes
and connections on model 582 w/serial number 720000 and below, 800, 1000,
1200, 1050 w/serial numbers 756,300-799,999, brakes-1535 w/serial numbers
800,000-821,059, brakes-1806 w/serial number 756,300-799,999. Replace damaged,
weak or missing pedal return spring to prevent premature (and expensive)
wear to clutch release/throw-out bearing
and clutch release lever, and to prevent annoying
rattling sound when the clearance between the
throw-out bearing and release lever is adjusted correctly.
|
How to Save a Used Clutch Release/Throw-Out Bearing - A proven,
ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise
this.
If
a used clutch release/throw-out bearing is
still pretty much "tight," but sounds noisy or "rattles" when you spin it
by hand, it could be saved from further wear by pumping it full of automotive
grease. The same can be done to a new bearing to ensure that it will last
a long time. (I've done this many times when I rebuild clutch assemblies
and have never had one complaint!) The fresh grease will help keep the
balls within the bearing well-lubricated and cool, preventing them from further
wear. But if the bearing is badly worn or if you're in doubt about doing
this, then perhaps install a new one. (Cub Cadet part # 741-3056)
When assembling the clutch
components, never install the clutch release/throw-out bearing on the
driveshaft backwards! Install it with the collar (the center part that
sticks out) towards the clutch disc.
How to save a used clutch release/throw-out bearing:
-
Drill a 3/32" hole in the grease/dust seal on the back side of the bearing.
-
Wash the entire bearing with either
electrical contact cleaner,
brake parts cleaner,
cleaning solvent or
paint thinner until the rollers are free of the drill cuttings
and debris on the inside. It's clean when the sound changes when it's
spun by hand and when it spins more freely.
-
Use [150± psi] compressed air to blow-dry the entire bearing, including
the inside. But don't spin the bearing with the air! Doing this could further
damage the bearing!
-

Using either a
needle grease injector (resembles a
hypodermic syringe that attaches to an
automotive grease gun) or a
chainsaw bar tip grease gun, pump the bearing through the
drilled hole until it's full of automotive grease. Rotate the bearing 180º
by hand and pump it again. It's full when the grease starts to ooze out of
the dust seals. By the way - the needle grease injector or chainsaw bar
tip grease gun can also be used to relubricate used sealed roller bearings
or add additional grease to new sealed roller bearings. And the chainsaw
bar tip grease gun comes in handy for lubricating a lot of different small
parts.
-
Thoroughly wipe the grease from around the drilled hole with a clean shop
towel/rag and apply a dab of
clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant over the hole.
-
When reinstalling the clutch release/throw-out
bearing, remember that the protruding center part faces forward in the
tractor (toward the engine).
-
And do not "ride the clutch"! In other words, try to remember to keep
your foot off the clutch pedal when the tractor is in motion! Failure
to do this will, without a doubt, eventually burn up the throw-out bearing
and possibly wear the release lever. Also, excessive heat from the throw-out
bearing could cause the front portion of the main clutch pressure spring
to get hot and collapse (shorten/weaken).
And for anyone who's ever wondered about this, when the Cub Cadet garden
tractor clutch/brake pedal is fully depressed, the clutch release lever moves
the throw-out bearing exactly 3/8" rearward on the driveshaft.
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notice.)
Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance
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website. |
Teasing [Compression] Spring
and Protective Thrust Washer. Fits all models of Cub Cadet clutch drive garden
tractors, including Cub Cadet garden tractor models 1250, 1450 and 1650 equipped
with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment, and Cub Cadet "Original" garden
tractor (thrust washer not required). Spring allows for smooth engagement
of fiber clutch disc, and washer prevents spring from breaking. The thrust
washer goes between the rear slotted pressure plate and teasing spring. Purpose
of thrust washer is for each time the clutch is engaged, the rotating motion
of the throw-out bearing will sometimes cause the blunt end of the spring
to "catch" in the slot of the rear pressure plate, which twists the spring
a few thousandths of an inch. Overtime, this twisting motion creates metal
fatigue in the spring and could cause it to eventually break, even when used
with the OEM Cub Cadet cup/spacer listed below. The thrust washer prevents
the spring from breaking. A thoroughly tested, proven, ingenious and
innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please do not accept advertised copycat
products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity
and intelligence.) FYI: There
is a custom-made sleeve available from an aftermarket vendor that goes over
the teasing spring (much like the cup/spacer listed below). But being the
coils of the teasing spring does not expand outward when the clutch is engaged,
this sleeve will not prevent the spring from possibly twisting and breaking.
-
Teasing Spring Only. OEM Cub Cadet part # 732-3017. $7.50 each, plus
shipping & handling.
-
Protective Thrust Washer Only. Not needed for Cub Cadet "Original" garden
tractor. .050"± thickness. $1.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
Teasing Spring and Protective Thrust Washer Kit. $8.50 per kit, plus
shipping & handling.
|
Cup/Spacer for Teasing
Spring listed above. Specifically used in Cub Cadet clutch drive garden tractor
models 580, 582, 800, 1000, 1200, 1535, 1604, 1606 and 1806, including Cub
Cadet garden tractor models 1250, 1450 and 1650 equipped with a hydrostatic
disconnect attachment. IMPORTANT: When installing this part on
the driveshaft, the wide/flared-end faces forward and the narrow end goes
against the throw-out bearing. And do not install this part in any other
model of Cub Cadet garden tractor then listed above in an attempt to prevent
the teasing spring from possibly breaking over time. (Use the protective
thrust washer listed above instead.) Doing so will position the throw-out
bearing further back on the driveshaft than in the original position and
not allow the clutch disc to either fully disengage or disengage at all.
-
OEM Cub Cadet part # 911-3040. $19.55 each, plus shipping & handling.
Cup/Spacer for Teasing Spring
listed further above. Specifically used in Cub Cadet garden tractor model
1050; 2" overall length. Comes with installed grease fitting.
IMPORTANT: When installing this part on driveshaft, the wide/flared
end faces forward and the narrow end goes against the
clutch release/throw-out bearing. And
for
preventive maintenance, lubricate through
Zerk grease fitting with an
automotive grease gun once a year.
-
Fabricated by A-1 Miller's. No longer available from Cub Cadet. Replaces
Cub Cadet part # 711-3282. $42.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Clutch Release/Throw-Out
Bearings for IH Cub Cadet narrow frame garden tractor models 70, 71, 72,
73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124 and 126. Bearing dimensions: 5/8" I.D. x
1.570" O.D. NOTE: The protruding center part of the bearing faces forward
in the tractor, toward the engine.
-
High quality aftermarket. Precision, high-speed sealed collar bearing. Basically
same as the OEM one that all MTD-built Cub Cadet garden tractors use. A-1
Miller's part # 150-543. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Cub Cadet part # 941-3056. $101.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
Clutch Release/Throw-Out Bearing
for IH Cub Cadet wide frame/solid mounted engine garden tractor models 86,
108 and 128. Precision, high-speed sealed collar bearing w/short pressed-in
steel sleeve. This larger diameter bearing covers more area in the wide frame
release lever for more contact and longer wear
to lever. Bearing dimensions: .780" I.D. x 1.850" O.D. x .550" height. NOTE:
The protruding center part of the bearing faces forward in the tractor, toward
the engine.
-
High quality aftermarket. Precision, high-speed sealed collar bearing. Same
as the OEM one that all MTD-built Cub Cadet garden tractors use. A-1 Miller's
part. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Lubricating Sleeve with
Zerk grease
fitting for use with the short clutch release/throw-out bearings
listed above È. When reassembling clutch
parts on narrow- or wide-frame Cub Cadet garden tractor driveshaft, a thin
coat of automotive grease between the clutch release/throw-out bearing and
driveshaft is all they receive for the life of the driveshaft until it's
disassembled again for rebuilding. This part allows for easy lubrication
and saves wear to driveshaft from sliding friction due to movement of clutch
release/throw-out bearing, especially with a heavy (red or yellow) main pressure
spring. Also allows for easier and smoother clutch pedal depression. Sleeve
installs between clutch release/throw-out bearing and main pressure spring
with grease fitting toward the spring for easier access. Heavy wall
tubing measures .626" I.D. x 1" O.D. x 3/4"± length. Third coiled/spiral
pin hole or split
clamping/locking collar(s) behind pressure spring may need to
be relocated 3/4" further back on the driveshaft. IMPORTANT: For
preventive maintenance, lubricate through
Zerk grease fitting with an
automotive grease gun once a year. A proven,
ingenious, thoroughly researched and innovative concept invented by Brian
Miller, because nobody else advertise the use of this part.
-
$10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Clutch Release/Throw-Out Bearings
for Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" ISO-mounted engine garden tractor models 800,
1000, 1200, and models 580, 582, 1050, 1535, 1604, 1606 and 1806. Also fits
Cub Cadet garden tractor models 1250, 1450 and 1650 with hydrostatic disconnect
attachment. Bearing dimensions: .780" I.D. x 1.850" O.D. x .550" height.
This larger diameter bearing covers more area in the wide and spread frame
release levers for more contact and longer wear
to lever. IMPORTANT: For
preventive maintenance, lubricate through
Zerk grease fitting with an
automotive grease gun once a year.
-
High quality aftermarket precision, high-speed sealed roller bearing only.
Has two steel dust/dirt shields. Reuse your OEM bushing. Bushing presses
into bearing. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
High quality aftermarket precision, high-speed sealed roller bearing
w/aftermarket OEM-length bushing and Zerk grease fitting. $50.00 each,
plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Cub Cadet garden tractor clutch release/throw-out bearing w/bushing and
Zerk grease fitting. Includes part #'s 703-0600 (bearing w/bushing), 737-0146
(grease fitting). $75.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Zerk
Grease Fittings. A grease fitting should be installed in [one piece]
wheel hubs or outer tubing with a rotating shaft so the [unshielded]
bearings/bushings or shaft will last longer when lubricated once a year with
an
automotive grease gun. Do not use a grease fitting on split
rim wheels. Remember - the moving part will likely wear more than the stationary
part. To install a grease fitting, drill a 13/64" hole, and use a 1/4-28
UNF TAPER hand tap to cut new threads for installation of the fitting.
Click or tap here to
learn how to professionally drill for and cut new threads. FYI - If a
grease fitting needs to be used in a thin-wall steel tubing (that's too thin
to cut deep enough threads into so the threads on the grease fitting will
not interfere with the inner shaft) to lubricate a moving inner shaft, weld
a
jam nut with 1/4-28 UNF threads on the tubing, then drill
a 3/16" hole through the nut/tubing, and install the grease fitting (with
short threads) in the nut. And remember - grease fittings provide
preventive maintenance only when people think to use them
regularly. Because grease cost less than any major repair of equipment.
[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
-
Short Straight fitting. Use for steering ends/joints, spindle shafts, universal
joints, etc. Dimensions: 1/4-28 UNF x .181" length threads x 35/64" overall
height x 5/16" hex.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Cub Cadet part # 937-3000.
.50¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Cub Cadet part # 937-3000. $3.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Long Straight fitting. Install in front wheel hubs to lubricate bushings
or bearings, etc. Dimensions: 1/4-28 UNF threads x 11/16" overall height
x 5/16" hex. .50¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
-
45º Angled Fitting. Use in hard to get places with obstacles. Dimensions:
1/4-28 UNF x .222" length threads x 7/8" overall height x 5/16" hex.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Cub Cadet part # 737-3001. $1.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Cub Cadet part # 737-3001. (Replaces 65º fitting, discontinued Cub
Cadet part # IH-273360.) $9.30 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
90º Angled Fitting. Use in hard to get places with obstacles. Dimensions:
1/4-28 UNF x .207" length threads x 3/4" overall height x 5/16" hex.
.75¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
|
Information About the Clutch Main Pressure Spring -
If a light-weight tractor with a governed engine (up to 4,000 RPM) is going
to be used for general yard work, it's okay to use the stock OEM Cub Cadet
garden tractor pressure spring with the OEM
composite clutch disc. A good used stock OEM
pressure spring and a new OEM spring should measure no less than 6-1/2" in
uncompressed length. The maximum length is 7". But the compressed length
(on the driveshaft with the clutch pedal fully depressed) is 5". If a spring
have been used on a driveshaft with an overheated or burned-out
clutch release/throw-out bearing, it's best
to replace both. And if the OEM pressure plates have been resurfaced,
but the clutch still slips in the heavier chores, perhaps a
high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow
(1,150± lb.) spring may need to be installed. (See below
Ê.)
If the tractor stops pulling about halfway down the track, and if the engine
is still running, but the tires aren't spinning, then the clutch is slipping.
For the OEM pressure plates to grip the clutch disc(s) firmly, the pressure
spring must be a very stout one. The Cub Cadet garden tractor clutch pressure
spring have about 250 psi of pressure and will probably not prevent the clutch
from slipping in a competition pulling tractor. Therefore, a
high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow
(1,150± lb.) spring works excellent with the OEM clutch disc or
aluminum disc. The OEM clutch release lever may
need to be extended 3" with either of these springs for easier clutch pedal
depression.
How to Reinforce the Clutch Release Lever
Brace on a Wide and Spread Frame Cub Cadet Garden Tractor When Using the
Yellow Spring -
Install a piece of 1/8" x 1" x (you'll need to measure the length if the
transaxle have been moved rearward) flat steel from the center of the clutch
release lever brace back to one of the upper
bolts on the front of the transaxle. Use grade 8 bolts so it can be removed
later in case of repairs. This is much easier to do on a
platform work table than
on the floor or ground. [Return to Previous
Section, Paragraph or Website]
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Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for
FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support
and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or
parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this
website. |
OEM
Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Clutch Compression Springs. Suitable for
general lawn and garden work only; not recommended for competition pulling.
Approximately 6-3/4" to 7" uncompressed length.
-
Used and in excellent condition. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
New. OEM Cub Cadet part # 932-3016. $46.65 each, plus shipping &
handling.
High Pressure Clutch Compression Springs; 800± lb. "Red" Spring,
and 1,150± lb. "Yellow" Spring. Fits all models of Cub Cadet clutch
drive garden tractors. When installed, either spring should be compressed
to 4-1/2" in length. These springs are approximately 3/4" shorter in length
than the OEM spring listed above, so if using the 3rd coiled/spiral pin hole
in the middle of the driveshaft at its OEM location, a 3/4" steel spacer
will need to be added behind the spring so it can apply maximum pressure
against the clutch disc. When installing either of the springs listed below,
use the original 3rd coiled/spiral pin hole location on the driveshaft, which
should measure 9-1/4" from the very front of the driveshaft, or better yet,
install one (for a stress proof steel driveshaft) or two (for a stainless
steel driveshaft) split clamping/locking
collar(s) at 9-1/4" from the very front of the driveshaft with a
center support pillow block bearing and brace
to prevent driveshaft wobble and reduce chance of driveshaft breakage at
open RPM engine operation. And depending on type of clutch disc used, the
Red spring is suitable for Hot-Stock and NQS Stock-Altered tractors, and
the Yellow spring is suitable for 16hp Missouri Super-Stock, Pro-Stock and
Modified tractors. Either are ideal for use with my
aluminum clutch disc setup. With either
of these aftermarket springs, the OEM clutch release lever should be extended
3" longer for easier depression of the clutch/brake pedal. Dimensions of
each spring: 5/8" I.D. x 1-1/4" O.D. x 6" length.
-
800± lb. "Red" Spring. $22.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
1,150± lb. "Yellow" Spring. $24.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
(± means more or less PSI depending on compressed length of spring
when installed on driveshaft.)
-
3/4" length steel spacer. Use on OEM Cub Cadet garden tractor driveshaft
with 3rd coiled/spiral pin hole. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Steel Flat Washer for OEM, 800
lb. or 1,150 lb. clutch pressure springs listed above. Prevents end of spring
from possibly uncoiling around 3rd coiled/spiral pin. Not required when spring
is used with 3/4" steel spacer or split
clamping/locking collar. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website] |
Advertisement: (Prices are subject to change without
notice.)
Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for
FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support
and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or
parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this
website. |
Teasing [Compression] Spring
and Protective Thrust Washer. Spring allows for smooth engagement of the
fiber clutch disc, and the washer prevents the spring from breaking. Fits
all models of Cub Cadet clutch drive garden tractors, including Cub Cadet
garden tractor models 1250, 1450 and 1650 equipped with a hydrostatic disconnect
attachment, and Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor (thrust washer not required).
The thrust washer goes between the rear slotted pressure plate and teasing
spring. Purpose of thrust washer is for each time the clutch is engaged,
the rotating motion of the throw-out bearing will sometimes cause the blunt
end of the spring to "catch" in the slot of the rear pressure plate, which
twists the spring a few thousandths of an inch. Overtime, the twisting creates
metal fatigue in the spring and could cause it to eventually break, even
when used with the cup/spacer listed below. The thrust washer prevents this
from happening. A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller.
Please do not accept advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do
appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.)
FYI: There is a custom-made sleeve
available from an aftermarket vendor that goes over the teasing spring (much
like the cup/spacer listed below). But being the coils of the teasing spring
does not expand outward when the clutch is engaged, this sleeve will not
prevent the spring from possibly twisting and breaking. Therefore, it's been
proven to use the protective thrust washer instead.
-
Teasing Spring Only. OEM Cub Cadet part # 732-3017. $7.50 each, plus
shipping & handling.
-
Protective Thrust Washer Only. Not needed for Cub Cadet "Original" garden
tractor. .050"± thickness. $1.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
Teasing Spring and Protective Thrust Washer Kit. $8.50 per kit, plus
shipping & handling.
|
Spherical, Swivel, Self-Aligning
5/8" I.D. Sealed Ball Bearing with Eccentric Locking Collar. Fits front of
IH "Original" Cub Cadet garden tractor driveshaft. Reuse OEM two-bolt, two-piece
stamped steel retainers. High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued
Cub Cadet part #'s IH-468390-R93 (collar bearing), IH-468391-R11 (eccentric
locking collar) and IH-376272-R1 (retainers). $20.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
Spherical, Swivel, Self-Aligning
5/8" I.D. Set Screw Collar Sealed Ball Bearing with two-bolt, two-piece stamped
steel retainers. Retainers has 2-1/2" bolt hole spacing. Alternative to using
bearing assembly above. High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Cub
Cadet part #'s IH-468390-R93 (collar bearing), IH-468391-R11 (eccentric locking
collar) and IH-376272-R1 (retainers). $25.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. |
Bronze Bushing. Fits inside
IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor clutch release collar housing (see
below). Grind or drill hole in bushing and lubricate through
Zerk grease fitting. Dimensions: 1" I.D. x
1.125" O.D. x 1" length. IMPORTANT: For
preventive maintenance, lubricate through
Zerk grease fitting with an
automotive grease gun once a year.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part # IH-376259-R1.
$4.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Needle Thrust Bearing and
Two Thrust Washers. Goes inside IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor clutch
release collar housing (see below). Dimensions: 1" I.D. x 1-9/16" O.D. x
.030" thickness thrust washers. IMPORTANT: For
preventive maintenance, lubricate through
Zerk grease fitting with an
automotive grease gun once a year.
-
High quality aftermarket. Includes needle thrust bearing and two thrust washers.
$12.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
-
Needle Thrust Bearing only. OEM Cub Cadet part # 741-3083. $12.80
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Needle Bearing and Two Thrust Washers Kit. OEM Cub Cadet part # 741-3083
(bearing) and TC-780007 (two thrust washers). $23.75 per kit, plus
shipping & handling.
|
IH Cub Cadet "Original" Garden
Tractor Clutch Release Collar Assembly. Replace worn-beyond-reuse clutch
release collar housing. Includes clutch release collar housing, new bronze
bushing and new thrust needle bearing with two new thrust washers. Replaces
discontinued Cub Cadet part # IH-376258-R11. IMPORTANT: For
preventive maintenance, lubricate through
Zerk grease fitting with an
automotive grease gun once a year.
-
$135.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available or
in stock.)
|
A-1 Miller's Professional
Machine Services -
Repair Worn Hole in YOUR IH Cub Cadet "Original" Garden Tractor Clutch Arm
to remove excessive free play in clutch/brake pedal. (The clutch arm fastens
on the clutch/brake cross shaft and rotates slightly to disengage the drive
clutch when the clutch/brake pedal is depressed.) FYI - The clutch arm
is discontinued Cub Cadet part # IH-376276-R1. $30.00 for labor
and installation of steel bushing/sleeve, plus return shipping & handling. |
Extra Thick Flat Washer. Used
to apply pressure against rear pressure plate in IH Cub Cadet "Original"
garden tractor clutch assembly. Dimensions: 1-3/4" O.D. x approximately 5/32"
thickness x .626" center hole. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part #
IH-25556-R1.
-
Fabricated by A-1 Miller's. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
  New OEM-quality
bronze pilot bushing for all pre-1981 gear drive IH Cub Cadet garden tractors,
except "Quiet Line" models. Also replacement bushing for inside the IH Cub
Cadet "Original" garden tractor pulley/clutch disc. $5.00 each, plus
shipping & handling.
Bore center of IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor pulley/clutch disc
for installation of a high quality, high-speed sealed radial ball bearing.
(Intended mainly for competition pulling tractors with an engine that runs
at high RPM or wide open throttle.) A proven, ingenious and innovative
concept by Brian Miller. Please do not accept advertised copycat products
of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and
intelligence.) $75.00
each for labor and bearing, plus return shipping & handling.
Rebuild IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor clutch assembly to OEM specs.
$75.00-$100.00 labor only, extra charge for parts, plus return shipping
& handling. Labor include: Disassemble complete unit, clean and inspect
all parts, resurface both pressure plates to remove warpage and resurface
composite clutch facings to restore flatness. Parts include: New bronze bushing
in pulley/clutch disc and clutch release/throw-out bearing assembly (if needed),
lubricate bushings and install new coiled/spiral
pins.
NOTE: If you're interested in having A-1 Miller's do the work for
you, please send your clutch assembly when you're ready to the address listed
below Ê . Package it securely so it won't
get damaged or lost in shipping and please include a note in the package
with your name, complete mailing address, phone number, email address (in
case I have any questions) and a description of what you want done any other
parts you may need. When the work is completed, I'll either call or email
you an invoice with the total including shipping & handling. For payment,
I accept cash (in person), money orders, cashier's checks, MasterCard, VISA,
Discover (your credit/debit card will be charged the same day the items are
shipped), Western Union Money Transfer and MoneyGram Money Transfers. Or
you can pay A-1 Miller's through PayPal (my PayPal account name is my email
address). If sending a money order, please include a note with your name,
complete mailing address, phone number and a description of what the payment
is for. My mailing address and phone number are listed below
Ê . And I will return your rebuilt clutch
assembly to you as soon as the work is completed after I receive your payment.
Please contact me if you're interested in
any of the above È parts or services.

The drive belt for an IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor
is part number IH-376230-R1, the size is 3/8" wide x 31-1/2" length and it
retails for about $12.00 (as of 3/21/12). |
Improving International Harvester's IH Cub
Cadet "Original" Garden Tractor Clutch Assembly - [Top
of Page]
The very first Cub Cadet garden
tractor manufactured is the International Cub Cadet, better known as the
Cub Cadet "Original". The reason this particular tractor
is called the "Original" is because they're the first Cub Cadet garden tractor
that International Harvester made. That's why most folks nowadays call it
the Cub Cadet "Original". IH didn't have a model number because they were
all built basically the same, and they all share the same parts. At the time,
Cub Cadet probably didn't think they were going to build more (and improved)
models in the years following.
On these tractors, the power is transferred from a small pulley, that is
on the engine, onto a larger pulley that's on the driveshaft by use of a
V-belt, which act like a gear reduction. It's approximately a 1.6:1 reduction
in driveshaft rotation. This means engine torque is increased approximately
1.6 times the driveshaft because the clutch/driveshaft. This increases the
power and torque of the original 6¼hp engine into a 10hp engine (6¼
x 1.6 = 10).
Replacing the Drive Belt in a Cub Cadet "Original" Garden Tractor -
To remove and install the drive belt on an IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden
tractor, the entire clutch assembly needs to be removed. After installing
the belt and reinstalling the clutch assembly, the belt needs to be tightened
by pulling down on the front brace of the clutch assembly (use a pry bar),
and tighten the bolts on each side of the frame. This is much easier to do
on a platform work table
than on the floor or ground.
Convert the V-Belt Drive System to a Chain/Sprocket Drive -
The V-belt on the Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor can be converted for
use with a chain and sprocket drive. This system works great because there'll
no belt to slip or rob the engine of horsepower. To make this possible:
-
The aluminum hub/pulley (next to the flywheel) will need to replaced with
a precision machined hub/sprocket. NOTE: The sprocket diameter can vary
to decrease or increase the ground speed of the tractor.
-
The V-groove as part of the clutch/pulley (on the driveshaft) will need to
be machined down to accept a sprocket.
-
The chain tension can be adjusted the same way the belt is tightened.
Repairing the Drive Clutch -
If the drive clutch holds well, but will not release at times, this means
the sliding parts on the driveshaft are dry or the old grease have accumulated
dirt and/or have "dried up," causing the parts to bind on the driveshaft.
How to Disassemble and Reassemble the IH Cub Cadet "Original" Garden Tractor
Clutch Assembly -
-
Use a big bench vise to disassemble and reassemble the clutch assembly.
-
Place the front of the driveshaft in the jaws of the vise (with a couple
of soft aluminum angled pieces placed in the vice jaws, of course), and tighten
down the jaws
-
Use a 3-4 lb. hammer to drive the driveshaft forward until the first
coiled/spiral pin can be removed.
-
Remove the driveshaft from the vise, and slide off the pressure plates and
clutch/pulley.
-
Place the driveshaft in the vise again, and butt the splined piece against
the jaws of the vise and remove the pin from the splined piece.
-
Place a small screwdriver in the front coiled/spiral pin hole (so the driveshaft
so it will not shoot out of the vise), and carefully loosen the vise to remove
it.
-
Reassembly is the opposite of disassembly.
But if the clutch slips, performing the following should cure the
problem:
First, resurface the cast iron pressure plates on a large, flat
disc or belt sander until they're perfectly flat. (Sanders
are not just for woodworking.) If the clutch discs (which is part of the
pulley) aren't worn excessively, they can be sanded flat as well to match
the flatness of the pressure plates. Just remove the raised places, no more.
But if the composite material is worn thin or if you have doubts that it
will not grip well, then install new clutch facings on the pulley.
If the clutch composite material "peels off" or comes loose from the pulley,
it can be reattached with a high strength adhesive, such as
Krazy Glue,
Super Glue,
Gorilla Glue, etc. FYI - When storing an opened container
of Super Glue or liquid threadlock material, store it upright and not laying
flat. The [capped] tip will not dry out and clog when stored upright.
As soon as the composite material is adhered on the pulley, place the
clutch/pulley assembly between two thick flat steel plates to cover the entire
composite material, then place them in a
hydraulic press and apply light pressure to squeeze out
any air bubbles that may get trapped so the composite material will have
a stronger bond and lay flat. If a hydraulic press isn't available, then
using one of the tires that's on a car or truck will place enough pressure,
too. After the glue have dried, lightly sand the composite material on a
large, flat
disc or belt sander to ensure true flatness.
For even better clutch adhesion or "holding power," the OEM pressure spring
can be replaced with a high pressure red (800±
lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring. Be sure to drill the 3rd hole
to 1/4" and install a heavy coiled/spiral pin, too! Install a new bronze
bushing in the clutch release/throw-out bearing
if it's worn. Then lubricate the clutch release/throw-out bearing through
the factory-installed Zerk grease fitting.
Under normal use, the clutch release/throw-out bearing needs to be lubricated
once a year for
preventive maintenance. Because grease cost a lot less
than any mechanical part(s)!
And as far as I'm aware, new composite facings for the IH Cub Cadet "Original"
garden tractor clutch is not available from any source. But 6061 aluminum
can be used as clutch facings on the IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor
clutch pulley. The dimensions of the fabricated aluminum clutch facings are
as follows: 4-1/2" O.D. x 3" I.D. x 1/8" thick.
Fasten the aluminum to the pulley
with six (for strength) 10-32 UNF x 1/2" length flat head brass screws equally
spaced apart on each side. Offset the threaded holes in the pulley so the
threads of the screws on one side will not interfere with the screws on the
other side. Countersink the heads of the screws into the aluminum with the
heads slightly below the surface of the aluminum. Make sure the aluminum
is perfectly flat before installing it on the pulley, too. And of course,
when using aluminum as clutch material, a stiffer-than-stock pressure spring,
such as the high pressure red (800± lb.) or
yellow (1,150± lb.) spring, will be required to prevent clutch slippage.
IH Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Mechanical PTO
Clutch Rebuild Kits - Click here to contact
A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for
repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service
assistance and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's
if you need a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or
mentioned in this website. | [Top of Page]
Mechanical PTO
Clutch Rebuild Kit. Designed for and fits all narrow frame Cub Cadet models
70, 71, 73, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127 and
147. (Unlike the tractors listed below, the model of tractors listed here
have a smaller mower deck, which require less pressure for the PTO clutch.)
OEM Cub Cadet part #'s 759-3490, IH-483525-R92, IH-545690-R92. $117.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
A-1 Miller's Professional Rebuild Service - Rebuild YOUR IH Cub Cadet
mechanical PTO clutch assembly. $75.00 labor each, parts are extra
charge, plus return shipping & handling.
Mechanical PTO Clutch Rebuild
Kit. Designed for and fits wide frame Cub Cadet models 86, 108, 109, 128,
129, 149 and 169. (Unlike the tractors listed above, the model of tractors
listed here have a larger mower deck, which require more pressure for the
PTO clutch.) OEM Cub Cadet part #'s 75903489 and IH-548352-R92.
$121.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
A-1 Miller's Professional Rebuild Service - Rebuild YOUR IH Cub Cadet
mechanical PTO clutch assembly. $75.00 labor each, parts are extra
charge, plus return shipping & handling. |
Carbon Wear Button for IH
Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Mechanical PTO Clutch. Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor
models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123,
124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149 and 169. This part installs in
the mower deck engagement lever on the frame of tractor. Makes contact with
the metal button to the right. Secure with high strength glue. OEM Cub
Cadet part # IH-473483-R2. $8.70 each, plus shipping & handling. |
Metal Thrust Button for
IH Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Mechanical PTO Clutch. Fits Cub Cadet garden
tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109,
122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149 and 169. This part installs
in the center of the PTO clutch assembly. Makes contact with the carbon button
to the left. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-473477-R3. $12.55 each, plus
shipping & handling. |
1"
Bore Bearing and Eccentric Locking Collar Set for IH Cub Cadet Mechanical
PTO Clutch Assembly. Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73,
86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127,
128, 129, 147, 149 and 169.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Cub Cadet part #'s IH-60071-C91 &
IH-60071-C92. $30.00 each set, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Cub Cadet part #'s IH-60071-C91 & IH-60071-C92. $57.40 each
set, plus shipping & handling.
|
IH
Cub Cadet Mechanical PTO Clutch Assemblies -
Designed for and fits all narrow frame Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 73, 100,
102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127 and 147. (Unlike the
clutch listed below, this particular clutch have a single pressure spring
for a smaller mower deck.) OEM Cub Cadet part #'s 759-3490, IH-483525-R92,
IH-545690-R92. $200.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When
available or in stock.)
Designed for and fits wide frame Cub Cadet models 86, 108, 109, 128, 129,
149 and 169. (unlike the clutch listed above, this particular clutch have
double pressure springs for a larger mower deck.) OEM Cub Cadet part #'s
75903489 and IH-548352-R92. $250.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
(When available or in stock.)
A-1 Miller's Professional Rebuild Service - Rebuild YOUR IH Cub Cadet
mechanical PTO clutch assembly. $75.00 labor each, parts are extra
charge, plus return shipping & handling. |
Mule Drive V-Belt Idler Pulley.
Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105,
106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169,
800, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1250, 1450 and 1650.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Cub Cadet IH-61176-C92. $17.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Cub Cadet IH-61176-C92. $31.70 each, plus shipping & handling.
A-1 Miller's Mechanical PTO Clutch
Basket/Pulley Puller/Remover Tool for IH Cub Cadet Garden Tractors -
An innovative concept by Brian Miller. [Top of
Page]

This is a fool-proof method to easily and safely remove the
basket/pulley without damaging it. Use this puller/remover tool with a 2-jaw
gear/pulley puller (The
PROTO 4021 2-jaw gear puller [shown to the right] works
great for many heavy duty jobs) and 1/2" impact wrench to remove a
manually-operated mechanical PTO clutch pulley/basket from the crankshaft
on IH Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104,
105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 149 and
169. This versatile puller/remover tool can also be used to remove stubborn
steel pulleys and sprockets from other makes and models of garden tractor
engines, transmissions, transaxles, right angle gearboxes, etc.
Fabricate this puller/remover tool from heavy gauge (1/4" wall thickness)
1-3/4" I.D. x 2-1/4" O.D. x 2" length steel tubing. Drill one 11/32" hole
toward each end of the tool (this is so the tool can be used in either
direction), and cut/grind/machine two slots 180º midway (on each side)
of the tool for the jaws of a 2-jaw gear/pulley puller tool.
How to Use A-1 Miller's IH Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Mechanical PTO
Pulley/Basket Puller/Remover Tool -
-


Remove the cast iron PTO clutch/pulley assembly and ball
bearing/locking collar from the crankshaft. There's a total of 6 set screws,
a short one on top of a longer one in each hole. The long ones needs to be
removed before the pulley/clutch assembly can come off. FYI - Sometimes
the set screws in the IH Cub Cadet cast iron PTO clutch/pulley assembly will
not remove and get stripped out. When this happens, the only option is to
pull/remove the clutch/pulley from the crankshaft with a heavy duty
2 jaw gear puller. (The
PROTO 4021 2-jaw gear puller [shown to the right] works
great for many heavy duty jobs) with a
large heavy duty C-clamp (to keep the jaws of the puller
from spreading out on the angled groove V-pulley) and then use a
heavy duty 1/2" air impact wrench on the gear puller.
Unfortunately, doing this breaks out the set screw holes, which is unavoidable
and destroys the cast iron PTO clutch/pulley assembly. The only option is
to install a new or rebuilt replacement PTO clutch/pulley assembly with
anti-seize thread lubricant on all of the new set screws.
-
Apply
rust penetrating oil on the crankshaft and PTO pulley/basket
hub. Allow the oil to soak for about 30 minutes. The hub of the basket/pulley
may need to be heated with an acetylene torch to remove it from the crankshaft.
-
Remove both set screws from the hub in the pulley/basket.
-
Insert a 5/16-18 UNC x 5" length grade 8 bolt through one of the holes in
the flange and through one drilled hole in the puller/remover tool, and thread
the bolt about 95% into the set screw hole. Do not tighten the bolt onto
the crankshaft!
-
On the opposite side (180º) of the hub where the set screw hole with
the 5/16" bolt is being used in the puller/remover tool, place a small bead
of weld on the puller/remover tool and pulley/basket to bond them together.
This insures that the puller/remover tool will pull/remove the pulley/basket
straight off the crankshaft easily and safely without getting cocked sideways.
Otherwise, if just the two set screw holes with two long 5/16" bolts are
used with no welding, the puller/remover tool will get cocked sideways when
attempting to remove the pulley/basket, which will make the removal process
more difficult.
-
Insert the jaws of a heavy duty
2 jaw gear puller into the slots of the puller/remover
tool, and use a hand wrench, or better yet, use a
heavy duty 1/2" air impact wrench to pull/remove the
pulley/basket from the the crankshaft. (FYI - the
PROTO 4021 2 jaw gear puller works great for many heavy
duty jobs.)
-
When the pulley/basket is removed from the crankshaft, remove the bolt, and
bend/pry the puller/remover tool to the side to break the bead of weld, and
grind the lump of weld from the puller/remover tool for use next time.
How to Prevent the IH Cub Cadet
Garden Tractor PTO Pulley/Basket from Loosening on the Crankshaft -
[Top of Page]
Tools and Parts Required Are:
-
Electric hand drill w/3/8" capacity chuck.
-
5/16" drill bit or 5/16"
countersink bit (for more accuracy).
-
1/4"
transfer punch.
-

Two 5/16-18 UNC x 5/8" length Allen set screws
-
Two 5/16-18 UNC
jam nuts.
Instructions:
-
Remove the OEM set screws from
the hub in the pulley, and remove the pulley from the crankshaft. (If
necessary, use A-1 Miller's PTO Puller Puller Tool as instructed above to
avoid damage to the pulley.)
-
Remove the keystock from the crankshaft. Place the set screws and keystock
aside for another project. They won't be needed for this fix.
-
Reinstall the pulley on the crankshaft, and for correct V-belt alignment,
place a
straight-edge tool against the outer edge of the pulley/basket
and align it with the outer edge of the pulley on the starter/generator.
-
Install one of the 5/8" length Allen set screws in the hub of the pulley
with the keyway and tighten it in the keyway slot.
-
Going through the other set screw hole (that's located at the 3:00 position
or 90° of the keyway slot), use the 1/4" transfer punch to place a mark
on the crankshaft dead center of the hole. <I>Don't go by the original
indention mark on the crankshaft that the OEM set screw made, because if
the pulley was loose, the indention may not be dead center with the hole.
-
Remove the pulley and use the 5/16" drill bit and drill press to create an
1/8" deep hole (dimple) dead center of the punch mark.
-
Reinstall the pulley on the crankshaft, and for correct V-belt alignment,
place a straight-edge against the outer edge of the pulley/basket and align
it with the outer edge of the pulley on the starter/generator.
-
Install a 5/8" length Allen set screw in the hub of the pulley and tighten
it securely in the drilled hole.
-
Install the other 5/8" length Allen set screw in the keyway slot and tighten
it securely.
-
Install the jam nuts on the set screws and tighten them securely to prevent
the set screws (and pulley) from loosening overtime. NOTE: The 5/8" length
set screws and jam nuts are short enough to not make contact with the pressure
plate on the PTO clutch assembly.
Click
Here for Detailed Illustrated Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back
and Self-Propelled Garden Tractor Pulling Sled (Available
Soon)
To place an order and/or for FREE professional and honest
technical customer service assistance and support, please contact: A-1
Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO
(Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-554-9008 (new number; land line) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; call
or text). Call in your order or email us a list parts you need.
Payment Options. Please call Monday-Friday,
9am to 5pm, Central time zone, except holidays. If no answer, please try
again later. (When speaking with Brian on the phone, please be patient
and understanding because I stutter.)
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central
time zone, with an appointment on weekends, except holidays. If you're the
kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling
your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
purchase parts, or drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly,
engine parts, etc., for repairing and/or rebuilding. Or visit our new shop
at 12091 N. Rt. B, Hallsville, MO
65255 to drop off your entire engine, transmission, transaxle, entire
garden tractor, small motorized vehicle, etc. Please call, text or email
me before coming so I'll be at my shop waiting for your arrival. When you
visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with the owner for the best
customer service. Directions to our
(old) shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. "The road to a [trusted] friend's
house (or shop) is never long." Don't sacrifice quality workmanship for
distance. [Return To Previous Paragraph,
Section or Website]
By the way - As business is booming,
we're going to relocate our business soon at 12091 N. Rt. B, Hallsville,
MO 65255 with a bigger, better, fully insulated, heated and air-conditioned
building/shop (shouse) so we can provide many more high quality parts and
professional services, and hire more reliable and knowledgeable help to have
our customer's parts orders fulfilled sooner, parts repairs and engine rebuilds
performed promptly without delay. We will also offer custom welding fabrication
jobs and other custom services. We will also provide pick up and delivery
service and perform professional repairs for various small engines and lawn
& garden equipment! Photos of
our new building/shop are posted here!
12091 N. Rt. B, Hallsville, MO 65255 - Google Maps
Payment Options, and We Ship to Canada and
Worldwide 
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent
by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged
item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service
Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal
Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S.
territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground
or equivalent services. We try to keep our shipping cost to customers within
reason. Therefore, we don't ship our products in a fancy-looking package
with our company name and/or logo on it because most customers will just
toss it in the trash after they remove the contents. And being there is no
USPS tracking number outside the US, all I can do is make sure I write your
address correctly on the customs form and on your package.
My websites are not set up to process orders and accept payments. Therefore,
for payment options, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders,
cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express
(please add 2.5% to the total amount for the credit/debit card processor's
surcharge),
Western
Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram
Money Transfers. If paying with a credit/debit card, please call me at
either number above. To make a payment to me through PayPal, please click
this link:
https://www.paypal.me/PullingTractor.
Or to make a payment to me (pullingtractor@aol.com) in the US through the
Venmo. Or use Cash App or
Zelle to make a payment to me (pullingtractor@aol.com).
And be sure to mention in PayPal, Venmo or Cash App a description of what
the payment is for with your full name, postal address, phone number and
email address. If sending a money order or cashier's check, please include
a note in the envelope with your name, complete mailing address, phone number,
email address and a description of what the payment is for. I'll make a note
of your order when I have all your information, and I may have to order some
of the parts, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send everything
on your list to you as soon as I have the parts in stock after I receive
your payment.


Ã
Return to Main Pulling Tips Page |
Return To Previous Website |
Various Vendors Related to Tractor Pulling |
Top of Page
Copyright © 1996-Present. This website created, designed and
maintained by Brian Miller.
Click
Here for Detailed Illustrated Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back
and Self-Propelled Garden Tractor Pulling Sled (Available
Soon)
To place an order and/or for FREE professional and honest
technical customer service assistance and support, please contact: A-1
Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO
(Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-554-9008 (new number; land line) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; call
or text). Call in your order or email us a list parts you need.
Payment Options. Please call Monday-Friday,
9am to 5pm, Central time zone, except holidays. If no answer, please try
again later. (When speaking with Brian on the phone, please be patient
and understanding because I stutter.)
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central
time zone, with an appointment on weekends, except holidays. If you're the
kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling
your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
purchase parts, or drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly,
engine parts, etc., for repairing and/or rebuilding. Or visit our new shop
at 12091 N. Rt. B, Hallsville, MO
65255 to drop off your entire engine, transmission, transaxle, entire
garden tractor, small motorized vehicle, etc. Please call, text or email
me before coming so I'll be at my shop waiting for your arrival. When you
visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with the owner for the best
customer service. Directions to our
(old) shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. "The road to a [trusted] friend's
house (or shop) is never long." Don't sacrifice quality workmanship for
distance. [Return To Previous Paragraph,
Section or Website]
By the way - As business is booming,
we're going to relocate our business soon at 12091 N. Rt. B, Hallsville,
MO 65255 with a bigger, better, fully insulated, heated and air-conditioned
building/shop (shouse) so we can provide many more high quality parts and
professional services, and hire more reliable and knowledgeable help to have
our customer's parts orders fulfilled sooner, parts repairs and engine rebuilds
performed promptly without delay. We will also offer custom welding fabrication
jobs and other custom services. We will also provide pick up and delivery
service and perform professional repairs for various small engines and lawn
& garden equipment! Photos of
our new building/shop are posted here!
12091 N. Rt. B, Hallsville, MO 65255 - Google Maps
To place an order, please call the number listed
below Ê or send an email with your name,
complete and correct postal address and phone number and so I can figure
the total with shipping cost and USPS Tracking. For payment options for parts
ordered or services performed, or to make a donation to my websites, I accept
cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks,
MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total
for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge),
Western
Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram
Money Transfers. (If a part for a specific purpose is special ordered,
your debit/credit card may be charged for the full amount or as a deposit
right after your order is placed; please do not send your debit/credit card
information in email!) Or you can pay A-1 Miller's through PayPal. (My PayPal
account name is my email address. And be sure to mention in PayPal a description
of what the payment is for.) If sending a money order, please include a note
in the envelope with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone
number and a description of what the payment is for. My mailing address and
phone number are below Ê . I'll make
a note of your order, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should
take a few days to come in, but I will send the parts to you as soon as I
have everything in stock after I receive your payment.
IMPORTANT - When sending your part(s) to A-1 Miller's
for rebuilding or repair, package everything securely so the item(s) won't
get damaged in shipping and please include a note in the box with your name,
mailing address, phone number (in case I have any questions) and a description
of what you want done. When shipping heavy parts, it's best to put a slightly
smaller box inside a larger box, to double the strength and integrity of
the package. Because the clumsy "gorillas" or incompetent and uncaring workers
that work for certain delivery services mishandle the heavy packages and
don't care. And when the work is completed, I'll either call or email you
an invoice with the total including shipping & handling.
Payment Options and We Ship to Canada and
Worldwide 
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent
by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged
item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service
Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal
Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S.
territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground
or equivalent services. We try to keep our shipping cost to customers within
reason. Therefore, we don't ship our products in a fancy-looking package
with our company name and/or logo on it because most customers will just
toss it in the trash after they remove the contents. And being there is no
USPS tracking number outside the US, all I can do is make sure I write your
address correctly on the customs form and on your package.
My websites are not set up to process orders and accept payments. Therefore,
for payment options, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders,
cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express
(please add 2.5% to the total amount for the credit/debit card processor's
surcharge),
Western
Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram
Money Transfers. If paying with a credit/debit card, please call me at
either number above. To make a payment to me through PayPal, please click
this link:
https://www.paypal.me/PullingTractor.
Or to make a payment to me (pullingtractor@aol.com) in the US through the
Venmo app, please click this link:
venmo.com. Or use
Cash App to make a payment to me
(pullingtractor@aol.com). And be sure to mention in PayPal, Venmo or Cash
App a description of what the payment is for with your full name, postal
address, phone number and email address. If sending a money order or cashier's
check, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete mailing
address, phone number, email address and a description of what the payment
is for. I'll make a note of your order when I have all your information,
and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to
come in, but I will send everything on your list to you as soon as I have
the parts in stock after I receive your payment.




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maintained by Brian Miller.