How
to Rebuild and Improve the Cub Cadet Drive Clutch Assembly
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On the direct-drive Cub Cadet, power from the engine is through the clutch and driveshaft assembly to the transaxle and to the rear tires. If the clutch is severely worn or if stock (OEM) parts may slip and little power or torque will be transferred, especially when using the tractor for competition pulling (especially with a big engine in a fast gear), gardening or to haul heavy loads. An engine in a competition pulling tractor that's built to the max or runs at high RPM or at wide open throttle produces a lot more torque than what the engineers at Cub Cadet originally anticipated for the driveline to handle. Therefore, the clutch assembly is the weak point (and the one-piece carrier and coarse spline axles), and will need to be reinforced and built up for strength for durability and to prevent slippage. Remember: towards the end of the track, if the tires don't spin or the engine bogs down, then the clutch will slip or something elsewhere in the driveline will possibly twist or break.
Types of Clutch Assemblies -
An ordinary clutch assembly for general lawn and garden use consist of a mild steel driveshaft, composite/fiber clutch disc and a light-weight pressure spring. But a clutch assembly for competition pulling and/or heavy lawn and garden use consist of a heavy duty 3- or 6-pin drive plate, either a stress-proof steel or stainless steel driveshaft, either a single- or double- OEM Cub Cadet or aftermarket composite/fiber clutch disc, or a single aluminum clutch disc (depending on which class the tractor pulls in), and definitely a much stiffer pressure spring for placing a heavier load on the clutch disc. Also, the pressure plates will definitely need to be resurfaced until perfectly flat and trued-up in a small metal lathe to ensure that the pressure plates will adhere to the clutch disc to prevent slippage. Because new OEM Cub Cadet pressure plates are made of stamped steel and are not machined whatsoever. This means they are not perfectly flat and they wobble from the factory. If used pressure plates have not been resurfaced before, then chances are, they'll still be thick enough after being resurfaced. Always remove the minimal amount of metal to retain maximum thickness so they will not warp when hot. (IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable using a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist with a lathe.) The same happens to automotive flywheels and pressure plates as the clutch disc wears. They need to be resurfaced too, when installing a new clutch disc. And the heavier or stronger the clutch assembly is, the more it will cost.
By the way - if the rotating clutch parts are precision balanced, installed and adjusted correctly, the OEM Cub Cadet or aftermarket double composite/fiber clutch disc setup will last a long time, a lot longer than the aftermarket 3 puck metallic clutch disc. Most double composite/fiber clutch disc setups last 20+ years under hard pulling every year before needing servicing or adjusting. No joke. Unlike the double composite/fiber clutch disc setup, which requires that either the engine be moved forward 3/8" in the tractor or the clutch release lever hanger bracket be moved rearward 3/8" (to make room for the extra clutch disc [1/4" thickness] and center steel drive plate [1/8" thickness]), most pullers prefer to use the 3 puck metallic clutch disc because no modifications needs to be made to the engine mounting holes or the clutch release lever hanger bracket.
Cub Cadet made four different 3-pin clutch drive plates. The bolt-circle pattern for the three clutch disc drive pins/partially threaded studs and four mounting holes are the same for all drive plates below.
The first clutch drive plate
is designed for the IH-built narrow- and wide-frame Cub Cadet models 70,
71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124, 126, 86, 108 and 128 with a
solid-mounted engine. It's made of flat, solid/non-flexible, 1/8" thickness
steel, with a bronze bushing (pilot bearing) pressed in the center to support
the driveshaft, and has coiled/spiral pins to drive
the clutch disc. This type of drive plate can also be used on the "Quiet
Line" ISO-mounted tractors (below Ê)
as long as solid motor mounts are installed.
It's Cub Cadet part # IH-384652-R12.
Depending on the class your tractor is going to pull in and engine size/modifications, there are many variations in which clutch/driveshaft design and carrier/axles to use. Listed are the weakest to the strongest:
Using Quality Driveshaft Material Is Important!
Most driveshafts are likely to
break at the second coiled/spiral pin hole, just in front of the
clutch release/throw-out bearing. Because
that's where the most vibration usually occurs. They also break just behind
the pressure spring, in front of the
pillow block bearing, due to temporary
frame twisting (narrow frames) when pulling. If this happens, it's best to
install a split clamping/locking collar.
What mainly makes the driveshaft break at 4,000+ RPM is either...
If quality driveshaft material is used, and if the rotating parts are precision balanced and if a carrier bearing is also installed (above 4,000 RPM. The factory setting of maximum RPM for virtually all small gas engines, including all of Kohler engines is 3,600), the driveshaft could possibly last the life of the tractor. Even when used in high-performance conditions.
Remember, in the direct-drive Cub Cadet, the entire clutch/driveshaft assembly rotates the same speed as the engine. For reliability in a highly modified tractor that turns well above 4,000 RPM, the driveshaft must be made of quality, solid hardened steel that can resist torsional twist. Such as 1144 stress-proof steel, heat-treated 4140 chrome-moly steel or 304 alloy stainless steel.
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Professionally Rebuilt (or New) Drive Clutch Assemblies for IH- and MTD-Built Cub Cadet Garden Tractors. Clutch assemblies available for narrow and wide, spread frame Cub Cadet garden tractors for general yard and garden use. Parts include: New stress proof steel driveshaft, new coiled/spiral pins, new aftermarket composite/fiber clutch disc, new aftermarket throw-out bearing, reconditioned release lever, new main pressure spring, new teasing spring and thrust washer, and both pressure plates resurfaced and trued-up. 3-pin drive plate shown in pictures above not included with clutch assemblies. All clutch purchases do not include the rear coupler or coupler arms and flex coupler. Purchase these separately, if needed. When ordering, please state model number of Cub Cadet. Core trade-in must be in rebuildable condition with very few missing or damaged parts. *The price to build or rebuild your clutch assembly depends on which parts can be reused and which new parts are installed, and the amount of machining is required. Drive Clutch Assemblies for Cub Cadet "Original" Garden Tractor. Priced full length (without creeper drive) or short length (with creeper drive unit.) NOTE: Complete driveshaft assembly do not include the driveshaft bearing support assembly, clutch operating support, clutch shaft bearing retainer and collar, adjustment rod yoke end, clutch operating rod and transaxle input shaft coupler arm. And I due to supply and demand, do not keep complete rebuilt clutch assemblies in stock. I build them as customers order them.
Drive Clutch Assemblies for Narrow Frame Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124 and 126. Priced full length (without creeper drive) or short length (with creeper drive unit.) NOTE: I do not keep complete rebuilt clutch assemblies in stock. I build them as customers order them.
Drive Clutch Assemblies for Wide Frame Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Models 80, 108 and 128. Priced full length (without creeper drive) or short length (with creeper drive unit.) NOTE: I do not keep complete rebuilt clutch assemblies in stock. I build them as customers order them.
Drive Clutch Assemblies for Wide Frame Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Models 800, 1000 and 1200. Priced full length (without creeper drive) or short length (with creeper drive unit.) NOTE: I do not keep complete rebuilt clutch assemblies in stock. I build them as customers order them.
Drive Clutch Assemblies for Spread Frame Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Models 580, 582, 1250, 1450, 1650 (models with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment), 1604, 1606 and 1806. Priced full length (without creeper drive) or short length (with creeper drive unit.) NOTE: I do not keep complete rebuilt clutch assemblies in stock. I build them as customers order them.
Drive Clutch Assembly for Spread Frame Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Model 1050. Priced full length (without creeper drive) or short length (with creeper drive unit.) NOTE: I do not keep complete rebuilt clutch assemblies in stock. I build them as customers order them.
If you would
like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website,
and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance and support,
please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank
Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
|
 OEM
Cub Cadet 3-pin Solid Clutch Drive Plate. Designed for
IH-built Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 108, 122, 124,
126 and 128 with the solid-mounted engine. These models have the engine
fastened directly to the frame with no rubber motor mounts. If you want to
use this type of drive plate in a "Quiet Line" model 800, 1000 or 1200 with
the ISO-mounted engine, then a set of A-1 Miller's
solid motor mounts must also be installed,
making the clutch/driveshaft assembly rigid throughout so less wear will
occur to the clutch assembly. NOTE: Before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch
assembly in the tractor, apply lubricating grease to inside the pilot bushing
and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if it's dry, chances are,
the driveshaft will not release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing
and driveshaft.
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 OEM Cub Cadet 3-pin
Flexible Clutch Drive Plate. Designed for IH-built Cub Cadet "Quiet
Line" models 800, 1000 and 1200, including models 1250, 1450 and 1650 with
a hydrostatic disconnect attachment, with an ISO-mounted engine. All
of these models have the engine mounted on rails with ISO rubber mounts.
If this drive plate keeps breaking just after a few years of use, then either
a new set of rubber ISO-mounts will need to be installed, or a set of A-1
Miller's solid motor mounts and a solid clutch
drive plate (above) can be installed, making the clutch/driveshaft assembly
rigid throughout so less wear will occur to the clutch assembly to lessen
chances of repeated breakage. NOTE: Before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch
assembly in the tractor, apply lubricating grease to inside the pilot bushing
and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if it's dry, chances are,
the driveshaft will not release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing
and driveshaft. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part # IH-106545-C93.
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  (Updated 4/20/20) Cub Cadet Engine Rubber ISO-Mounts.
This replaces the mount on only one corner. Order four kits for a complete
set. Designed for IH-built Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" models 800, 1000 and
1200, including models 1250, 1450 and 1650 with a hydrostatic disconnect
attachment. All of these models have the engine mounted on rails with ISO
rubber mounts. Replace deteriorated rubber ISO-mounts to lessen chances of
clutch drive plate breakage and so less wear will occur to the clutch assembly.
Designed for IH-built Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" models 800, 1000 and 1200, including
models 1250, 1450 and 1650 with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment. All
of these models have the engine mounted on rails with ISO rubber mounts.
These rubber mounts can also be adapted for use on many other makes and models
of small engine equipment to reduce engine vibration throughout the frame.
OEM Cub Cadet part # 759-3952.
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 Weld the collars on your
OEM IH Cub Cadet drive plate to prevent plate from bending under strain and
true-up drive plate in metal lathe to remove wobble or run-out to reduce
vibration. NOTE: Before installing the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the
tractor, apply lubricating grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on the
front of the driveshaft. Because if it's dry, chances are, the driveshaft
will not release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing and driveshaft.
An original, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller,
because nobody else advertise this service.
NOTE: Before installing the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply lubricating grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if it's dry, chances are, the driveshaft will not release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing and driveshaft. |
 Repair your OEM Cub Cadet
3-pin clutch drive plate when original drive pin collar(s) are broken off
and true-up drive plate in metal lathe to remove wobble or run-out to reduce
vibration. An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody
else advertise this service.
NOTE: Before installing the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply lubricating grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if it's dry, chances are, the driveshaft will not release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing and driveshaft. |
 Repair pilot bushing hole
in drive plate that's worn too big for OEM pilot bushing and true-up drive
plate in metal lathe to remove wobble or run-out to reduce vibration.
An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise
this service.
NOTE: Before installing the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply lubricating grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if it's dry, chances are, the driveshaft will not release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing and driveshaft. |
 Repair work - Convert your
OEM 3-pin clutch drive plate into a 6-pin, install 3 hardened steel studs,
lock washers, and true-up plate in metal lathe. I will need your clutch drive
plate & clutch disc, too. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian
Miller, because nobody else advertise this service.
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 Convert your OEM MTD Cub
Cadet clutch drive plate from 3-stud to 6-pin. True-up plate in metal lathe
and then install 3 additional hardened steel studs, lock washers and nuts,
and true-up drive plate in metal lathe to remove wobble or run-out to reduce
vibration. NOTE: Clutch disc must be precision-drilled with 3 extra holes
to accept the 3 additional drive studs. An ingenious and innovative concept
by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind.
(But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.)
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  Clutch Drive Studs w/Nuts and split lock washers for MTD
Cub Cadet 3-pin clutch drive plate or to convert a 3-pin clutch drive plate
into a 6 pin clutch driver. Each stud below made of hardened steel.
NOTE: Adding three additional clutch drive studs is something that must be performed with precision machining. To install three additional clutch drive studs in the OEM clutch drive plate and have them perfectly aligned with the OEM drive pins and the three extra holes in the clutch disc, and to prevent the pins from being out of balance (out of circle) and to prevent wobble, the holes in the plate (and clutch disc) will need to be drilled using a Super Spacer or Rotary Table that's fastened to the table of a milling machine. Each hole must be drilled precisely at 2.5625" out from dead center and spaced exactly at 90º from the original drive pins. This will allow the 3 extra drive studs (and holes in clutch disc) to be positioned in exact alignment with the OEM pins. Just like the wheel studs on an automobile. If you want, I can professionally install three extra drive studs in your clutch drive plate and drill three extra matching holes in your clutch disc for $45.00 labor, which includes the 3 drive studs, plus return shipping. I will need your clutch drive plate and clutch disc, too. |
 Driveshafts for IH Cub
Cadet "Original" Garden Tractor. NOTE: These driveshafts, with
the OEM factory designed machined-down 3/8" diameter support end, are originally
used with Cub Cadet coupler arm with the 25/64" center hole
(part # 759-3009). But with a 5/8" diameter support
end (A-1 Miller's improved design), the driveshaft can be used instead with
Cub Cadet coupler arm with the 5/8" center hole (part
# 748-3001). Due to the increase in material, less wear will occur to
the end of the driveshaft and hole in the coupler arm. Available
only in 1144 Stress Proof steel. (95,000 P.S.I. strength.) Not available
in stainless steel. Please indicate with 3/8" or 5/8" stub end.
Coiled/Spiral pins sold
separately. (Scroll down). Driveshafts comes with flat steel coupler
arm welded to shaft and coiled/spiral pin holes drilled.
Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the parts or items in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page]
Coiled/Spiral Pins for IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor driveshaft. 3,100 P.S.I. breaking strength.
Coiled/Spiral Pins for all other models of Cub Cadet garden tractor driveshafts -
Coiled/Spiral Pins for OEM Cub Cadet 3-pin clutch drive plate and drag link steering arm on narrow frame Cub Cadets. 12,600 P.S.I. breaking strength. Dimensions: 3/8" diameter x 1-1/2" length. NOTE: The holes in the drag link arm and spindle shaft may need to be drilled (enlarged) exactly to 3/8" (.375") for this pin to fit snug. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
Use quality coiled/spiral pins for driveshafts to prevent the possibility
of pin breakage. Coiled/Spiral pins are much stronger than the spring-type
or C-shaped coiled/spiral pins. And all Cub Cadet driveshafts require the
coiled/spiral roll-pins. Also, use a quality-made 1/4" roll-pin punch tool
to remove the roll-pins. And whenever a roll-pin is removed, one end will
probably get "mushroomed" or flared out. Making reinstallation almost impossible.
So before reinstalling reusable roll-pins, ground the burr off the end of
it, and ground a chamfer on the end (grind to a dull point) to make the
installation easier. (Remember to wear safety glasses!)
Removing Coiled/Spiral Pins -
Personally, I use 2 lb. hammer and a quality-made 1/4" coiled/spiral pin punch to drive the pins out of the driveshaft and rear rigid tubular coupler. I've had some stubborn pins before, but they've always drove out with determination, and no damage to anything (except to the pin itself). Coiled/Spiral pins can't be drilled out either because they're just as hard as a high quality drill bit. Or if the coiled/spiral pin is really stubborn, it can be heated with an oxy-acetylene torch. This will cause the spring-action or outward expansion of the pin to weaken and collapse, then it can be driven out much easier. Be careful not to melt the pin with the torch! Doing this could make it much more difficult to remove.
When to Use a Split Clamping/Locking Collar on the Driveshaft - (Updated 11/2/16)
The only reason a split
clamping/locking collar is needed behind the pressure
spring is for competition pulling and when the engine turns at high RPMs
or at wide open throttle. When a center support
pillow block bearing and brace (that's welded to the inside of the tractor
frame) is used to stabilize the driveshaft and prevent wobble at high RPMs.
The collar lessens the chance of driveshaft breakage when a hole is drilled
for the 3rd coiled/spiral pin, and when or if the driveshaft flexes under
pulling strain. If a stock engine will never turn above 4,000 RPM, then a
split clamping/locking collar shouldn't be needed on the driveshaft because
the driveshaft will not wobble as much. On a stock tractor with a 4,000±
RPM engine, instead of using a clamping/locking collar, install a thick washer
in place of the collar, with a long steel tube on the driveshaft extending
from the washer butted against the rear driveshaft coupler. A 3rd coiled/spiral
pin hole will not be required, too.
The split clamping/locking collar can also be used on front of the IH Cub Cadet "Original" driveshaft to prevent driveshaft from moving rearward when clutch pedal is depressed.
Moreover, when using a stainless steel driveshaft, due to the "slickness" and hardness of the metal, just one split clamping/locking collar may slip rearward when the clutch pedal is fully depressed. Sometimes even using two collars will slip also. So to prevent the collar(s) from slipping, install flat washers behind the collar and in front of the center support pillow block bearing and brace so the pressure will be placed against the bearing, and the bearing will hold the collar in place. And a single split clamping/locking collar will grip mild or 1144 stress proof steel with no problems. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]
Advertisement:
If you would
like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website,
and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance and support,
please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank
Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
 Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.
When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly
with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to
the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we
can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
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5/8" I.D. Split clamping/locking
collars. With the drilled 3rd coiled/spiral pin hole not present in the
driveshaft, this part stiffens the driveshaft in the middle 100%, and it
helps prevent driveshaft breakage at 4,000 RPM (without a center support
pillow block bearing and brace installed), and when used with a center support
pillow block bearing and brace, this prevents the driveshaft from "wobbling
around", which could break at higher RPMs or at wide open throttle. Position
collar at 9-1/4" from front of driveshaft. This will compress the main pressure
spring to 4-1/2" once installed and clutch assembly is reassembled (with
the clutch/brake pedal not fully depressed). Can also be used on front of
the IH Cub Cadet "Original" driveshaft to prevent driveshaft from moving
rearward when clutch pedal is depressed. Has two Allen head screws that holds
the clamp together and provide a very tight uniform 360° grip around
the driveshaft. NOTE: With a stainless steel driveshaft, it's best to
use two split clamping/locking collars or a pillow block bearing with an
eccentric locking collar because just one split collar might slip on the
"slick" and hardened surface of stainless steel.
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 Driveshaft
Center Support Pillow Blocks with self-aligning 5/8" ball bearing and
high quality cast iron housing. For use in all models of IH- and MTD-built
Cub Cadet competition garden pulling tractors. Center to center of mounting
holes: 3-3/4". Use with steel support brace below
Ê. NOTE: Either of these are
required only for Cub Cadet competition pulling tractors with an engine that
run at high RPM or wide open throttle to stabilize driveshaft from wobbling
and prevent breakage. Install just behind main pressure spring on driveshaft.
See pictures of correct installation below.
Ê
[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
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Do this only if the front
axle has been moved forward -
On the narrow frame Cub Cadets, if the front axle has been
moved forward, reinforce the frame rails where the engine mounting holes
are to reduce normal high-RPM engine vibration travel that could lead to
both frame and driveshaft breakage. To do so, stiffen the frame rails where
the engine mounting bolt holes are by welding two 1/4" thick steel plates
under the frame. Longer engine mounting bolts must be used, too. The reason
for this is because when the front axle center support is moved, the remaining
frame material isn't thick enough to hold up to the engine vibration.
For the spread frame models with the ISO (rubber) motor mounts, replace the rubber mounts with a set of our solid steel motor mounts or remove the brackets and fabricate a minimum 1/4" thick plate steel, set it at the right height and weld it to the frame. But the engine mounting holes and oil drain plug hole must be properly located (centered) and drilled in the plate first. This is much easier to do on a platform work table. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]
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How to Remove the Driveshaft/Clutch Assembly from a Cub Cadet: (This is much easier to do on a platform work table.)
The coiled/spiral pin in
the input shaft on the transaxle of a narrow frame Cub Cadet garden tractor
can be very difficult to remove and somewhat difficult to access from underneath.
Therefore, it's recommended that a 1" hole should be drilled through the
top of a short tunnel cover (center section of the tractor frame), or through
the side of a tall tunnel cover in direct alignment with the coiled/spiral
pin, then use a long 1/4" roll pin punch and medium size hammer to drive
the pin from the coupler. Don't attempt to drill-out the coiled/spiral pin.
They're just as hard as a high quality drill bit. After the pin is removed
and the clutch assembly is rebuilt, upon reinstallation in the tractor, use
a socket in the drilled hole to fasten a hardened steel 1/4" diameter
[grade 8 or Allen head] bolt in the coupler.
For cosmetic purpose, hide the
drilled hole with a 1" plastic or metal hole plug. Just push the plug in
the hole for a nice distinctive look. And sometimes when driving out
the coiled/spiral pin, the pounding will bend the input shaft in the transaxle.
If this happens, the input shaft will need to be straightened (and hope it
doesn't break later because the metal has been weakened) or a good used input
shaft will need to be installed. This is why it's highly recommended that
a hardened steel 1/4" bolt/lock nut be used in the coupler in place of the
coiled/spiral pin because if the driveshaft ever needs to be removed again,
removing a bolt/lock nut would be a lot easier than driving out a stubborn
coiled/spiral pin. Plus, it'll be easier on your nerves and on the input
shaft.
How to Disassemble the Clutch Components from the Driveshaft -
To disassemble the clutch components from the driveshaft, first place the front pressure plate hub on slightly open jaws of a bench vise, and use a quality-made 1/4" coiled/spiral pin punch and a medium size hammer to drive out the coiled/spiral pin. Then the pressure plates, clutch disc clutch release/throw-out bearing and pressure spring should all slide off the driveshaft.
Fasten the Coupler Arms Together To Make One Rigid Driveshaft Coupler -
With
solid motor mounts installed in a Cub Cadet
that originally came with an ISO-mounted engine, the driveshaft will not
be able to "move" with the engine and there'll be less chance of clutch parts
prematurely wearing or breaking. The flexible rubber disc(s) at the end of
the driveshaft will be useless too, and could deteriorate over time. So instead
of replacing the OEM coupler arms with a machined rigid tubular coupler,
make the coupler arms rigid by removing the flexible rubber disc(s) and install
a couple of 3/8" thickness spacers for a single disc, and a couple of 3/4"
thickness spacers for double composite/fiber clutch discs, and fasten the
arms together with a couple of 3/8" diameter hardened steel bolts. (Large
nuts are used as spacers in the picture to the right.) By the way - one rubber
flex disc is 3/8" thick. This setup is just as strong as using a rigid tubular
coupler, and it cost a lot less.
If the outer parts of the
two arms don't come together or meet when the bolts are tightened (be careful
not to tighten the bolts too tight if the arms don't meet, they could break),
a couple of thin flat washers may need to be added as shims next to the spacers.
And before fastening the arms together with the spacers, first slide the
arms on the driveshaft so they'll be in perfect alignment with each other,
and tighten the bolts. See the picture to the right. Also, if you want, leave
out the 5/8" diameter [swivel/spacer] steel ball. It'll serve no purpose
when using solid motor mounts and when making
the coupler arms rigid.
FYI - Many pullers convert the hydrostatic drive Cub Cadet models 109, 129, 149 and 169 (wide frames, solid mounted engine) and models 1250, 1450 and 1650 (wide frames, ISO-mounted engine) into a clutch-drive tractor. All that's needed are the clutch assembly with the hanger bracket for the release lever and a complete transaxle out of a model 86, 108, 128 (wide frames, solid mounted engine) or models 800, 1000 or 1200 (wide frames, ISO-mounted engine) gear drive Cub Cadet. A set of my solid motor mounts will be needed also if the tractor originally has the ISO rubber motor mounts. The braking mechanism out of a wide frame Cub Cadet will also be needed.
Do not fasten the two coupler
arms directly together on the IH Cub Cadet "Original" because the driveshaft
needs to move up or down to tighten the drive belt with the engine. Leave
the flexible rubber disc in place, even for pulling competition. Or a 5/8"
I.D. universal joint can be installed instead.
A rigid tubular rear driveshaft
coupler with a worn center can be repaired by boring out the center and
installing a press-fit steel sleeve. Then ream the sleeve to .626" for a
slip-fit on the driveshaft. Then the holes
for the coiled/spiral pins can be drilled. The boring and reaming process
should be performed on a milling machine with a self-centering 3-jaw super
spacer or in a metal lathe with a self-centering 3-jaw chuck.
(IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable using
a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist with
a lathe.)
Installing a coiled/spiral pin
in the rear of the driveshaft to connect the coupler to the input shaft on
the transaxle of a Cub Cadet can be very difficult. To make it much easier,
simply use a 1/4" grade 8 bolt instead. For strength, the shank (unthreaded
part) of the bolt needs to have full contact with the coupler and driveshaft.
And as long as the driveshaft is in correct alignment with the centerline
of the crankshaft and transaxle input shaft, with the coiled/spiral pin holes
in-line with each other, and not offset 90°, at around 4,000 RPM, this
should not cause the driveshaft to "shake around" or vibrate whatsoever.
At high RPM or at
wide
open throttle, a center support pillow
block bearing and brace should be used midway on the driveshaft.
For pulling applications, rubber motor mounts (and the flexible coupler at the rear of the driveshaft) absorbs valuable horsepower, which must be transferred to the rear tires for full power to the track. The rubber motor mounts will also cause the engine to vibrate excessively at high RPM or at wide open throttle. Plus, with normal use of the tractor, rubber motor mounts could cause the flexible 3-pin drive plate and/or the driveshaft to eventually break. If a tractor that has rubber motor mounts and a flexible coupler is going to be used for competition pulling, definitely install some metal motor mounts.
First of all, when using a milling machine, use a spotting drill bit, or use a center punch or transfer punch to locate exactly where the hole needs to be drilled to prevent the drill bit from "skating" on the surface. This will position and guide the drill bit to bore EXACTLY where the hole needs to be drilled. And due to the natural expansion of a roll, coiled or coiled/spiral pin, ALWAYS drill the hole with a drill bit that's one size smaller than the actual size for the roll, coiled or coiled/spiral pin's size, to allow for sufficient compression of the pin when installed in the hole. For example: for a 1/4" roll, coiled or coiled/spiral pin, initially drill the hole with a 15/64" drill bit (one size smaller than the 1/4" drill bit), then finish enlarging the same hole with a 1/4" drill bit. Doing this will guarantee the hole will be EXACTLY 1/4" in diameter. If the hole is initially drilled with just the 1/4" bit, chances are, this will cause the hole to be wallowed out, making it too big for the 1/4" roll, coiled or coiled/spiral pin. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]
Advertisement:
| If
you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this
website, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance
and support, please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501
W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.
When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly
with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to
the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we
can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
|
|||||
| Solid Motor Mounts for Cub
Cadet "Quiet Line" Tractors - Replace Deteriorated "ISO" Rubber Motor Mounts
with a Set of Machined Solid Steel Motor Mounts! An original,
ingenious, innovative concept invention by Brian Miller, because I was the
one who originally thought of, promoted and advertised the use of this
product. Please accept no copycat products of this kind. (But
I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.)
Details include:
|
|||||
(Updated 4/20/20) Cub Cadet Engine Rubber ISO-Mounts.
This replaces the mount on only one corner. Order four kits for a complete
set. Designed for IH-built Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" models 800, 1000 and
1200, including models 1250, 1450 and 1650 with a hydrostatic disconnect
attachment. All of these models have the engine mounted on rails with ISO
rubber mounts. Replace deteriorated rubber ISO-mounts to lessen chances of
clutch drive plate breakage and so less wear will occur to the clutch assembly.
Designed for IH-built Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" models 800, 1000 and 1200, including
models 1250, 1450 and 1650 with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment. All
of these models have the engine mounted on rails with ISO rubber mounts.
These rubber mounts can also be adapted for use on many other makes and models
of small engine equipment to reduce engine vibration throughout the frame.
OEM Cub Cadet part # 759-3952.
|
|||||
 OEM-Thickness
Bronze Pilot Bushing. Fits all pre-1981 gear drive IH-built Cub Cadet models
70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 106, 108, 122, 124, 126 and 128, except
"Quiet Line" models. This is also the replacement bushing for the IH Cub
Cadet "Original" clutch disc/pulley. Dimensions: 5/8" I.D. x 7/8" O.D. x
3/4" length. IMPORTANT: To prevent the replacement pilot bushing from
wearing, both pressure plates should be resurfaced and trued-up in a metal
lathe, and before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor,
apply lubricating grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of
the driveshaft. Because if the bushing is dry, chances are, the driveshaft
will not release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing and driveshaft.
|
|||||
 Thin-Wall Bronze
Pilot Bushing Insert for installing inside a worn OEM bronze pilot bushing
in all pre-1981 gear drive IH Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102,
104, 106, 108, 122, 124, 126 and 128, except "Quiet Line" models. Can also
be used inside the OEM bushing in the IH Cub Cadet "Original" clutch disc/pulley.
Dimensions: 5/8" I.D. x 3/4" O.D. x 3/4" length. NOTE: Worn OEM bushing
must be precision center-bored to .750" in a metal lathe so this bushing
will have a press fit. IMPORTANT: To prevent the replacement pilot
bushing from wearing, both pressure plates should be resurfaced and trued-up
in a metal lathe, and before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch assembly
in the tractor, apply lubricating grease inside the pilot bushing and/or
on the front of the driveshaft. Because if the bushing is dry, chances are,
the driveshaft will not release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing
and driveshaft. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
|||||
 Replacement
Self-Aligning Spherical Bronze Bushing w/Outer Steel Race/Retainer. Fits
pilot bushing retainers below and input shaft coupler arm further below in
Cub Cadet ISO-mount garden models 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782,
782D, 784, 800, 882, 982, 984, 1000, 1050, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250,
1282, 1450, 1512, 1541, 1572, 1604, 1606, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1772, 1806,
1810, 1811, 1860, 1872, 1912, 1914 and 2072. Install with hammer and socket.
IMPORTANT: To prevent the replacement pilot bushing from wearing, both
pressure plates should be resurfaced and trued-up in a metal lathe, and before
reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply lubricating
grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because
if the bushing is dry, chances are, the driveshaft will not release, it can
bind up and wear both the bushing and driveshaft. OEM Cub Cadet part
# 941-3004. $39.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
|||||
Round Retainer with Pressed-In Self-Aligning Spherical Pilot Bushing. Fits Cub Cadet ISO-mount garden tractor models 800, 1000, 1200, 1250, 1450 and 1650. OEM Cub Cadet IH-126205-C2. $97.50 each, plus shipping & handling. |
Rectangular Flange with Pressed-In Self-Aligning Spherical Bronze Pilot Bushing. Fits Cub Cadet ISO-mount garden tractor models 680, 682, 782, 784, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1541, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1860, 1872 and 2072. OEM Cub Cadet part # 903-0204. $31.10 each, plus shipping & handling. |
Rectangular Flange with Pressed-In Self-Aligning Spherical Bronze Pilot Bushing. Fits Cub Cadet ISO-mount garden tractor models 782D, 882, 1512, 1572 and 1772. Discontinued from Cub Cadet. OEM Cub Cadet part # 703-0231. $45.00 each with new bushing, plus shipping & handling. (When available.) |
Rectangular Flange with Pressed-In Self-Aligning Spherical Bronze Pilot Bushing. Fits Cub Cadet ISO-mount garden tractor models Fits models 982, 984, 986, 1912 and 1914. OEM Cub Cadet part # 903-1492. $42.10 each, plus shipping & handling. |
||
  Driveshaft Tubular Couplers. OEM stock-length (replaces
Cub Cadet part # IH-394036-R1) or 3" aftermarket rigid tubular carbon steel
driveshaft one-piece rigid tubular couplers for Cub Cadet models 70, 71,
72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 106, 108, 122, 124, 126 and 128. For an OEM
stock-length coupler, having a 2" longer than stock coupler (with the 2"
extended on the driveshaft end) will help stabilize the driveshaft to reduce
overall tractor vibration and help the coupler last longer. For a custom-length
coupler, exact locations where the coiled/spiral pin holes need to be drilled
are required. Custom-length rigid tubular driveshaft couplers, up to 6" length
are available. To find the location of the coiled/spiral pin holes, install
the driveshaft in the tractor with the engine fastened to the frame with
a couple of bolts, make sure the clutch disc is midway on the drive pins,
then measure precisely from the rear coiled/spiral pin hole on the driveshaft
to the coiled/spiral pin hole in the input shaft in the transaxle, then add
3/4" for the overall length of the coupler. And one-piece couplers to replace
rubber flex coupler(s) and T-arms on AQS (Quiet Line) Cub Cadet models 800,
1000, 1050 and 1200 when using solid motor
mounts. The 800, 1000 and 1200 coupler will come with two roll pin holes
for single or double rubber flex coupler(s). NOTE:
The 3" aftermarket coupler is used only for competition pulling tractors
with a shortened driveshaft so the input shaft/pinion drive gear can be changed
to vary the ground speed of the tractor. And when ordering, please specify
model of Cub Cadet, overall length and coiled/spiral pin hole
locations.
|
|||||
 Transaxle
Input Shaft Coupler Arm. Fits IH Cub Cadet "Original" and models 105, 107,
109, 123, 125, 127, 129, 147, 149 and 169. 25/64" bolt holes spaced 3" apart
with a 25/64" center hole for support end of driveshaft.
[Return To Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
|
|||||
 Driveshaft
(or Input Shaft) Coupler Arm. Fits Cub Cadet models 482, 580, 582, 680, 682,
782, 784, 782D, 800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250,
1282, 1450, 1512, 1541, 1604, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812
and 1860. 25/64" bolt holes spaced 3" apart with a 5/8" center hole.
NOTE: This particular part goes on the driveshaft and not on the input
shaft of the transaxle. Additional Note: This part can be substituted
for the coupler arm above when used on the transaxle input shaft with end
of driveshaft at 5/8". Due to the increase in material, less wear will occur
to the end of the driveshaft and hole in the coupler arm. (A-1 Miller's improved
design.) Can also be used in an angled steering shaft setup as a U-joint
with either rubber flex coupler below in a custom-built mini-rod pulling
tractor. [Return To Previous Section,
Paragraph or Website]
|
|||||
 Transaxle Input
Shaft Coupler Arm with Self-Aligning Spherical Bronze Bushing and
Outer Steel Race/Retainer. Each fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 482,
580, 582, 682, 782, 782D, 800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211,
1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1541, 1604, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811,
1812 and 1860. Bolt holes spaced 3" apart with a 5/8" center through-hole.
NOTE: This particular part goes on the input shaft of the transaxle and
not on the driveshaft. and
|
|||||
 Driveshaft
Rubber Flex Coupler. Fits Cub Cadet "Original" and Cub Cadet hydrostatic
drive models: 105, 107, 109, 123, 125, 127, 129, 147, 149, 169, 482, 582
Special, 1100, 1604 and 1606. Allows for out-of-alignment rotation of driveshaft
to prevent damage to hydrostatic pump. Very tough, reinforced weaved fiber/rubber
material. Can also be used in an angled steering shaft setup as a U-joint
with the coupler arm(s) above in a custom-built mini-rod pulling tractor.
13/32" bolt holes spaced 3" apart. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-376257-R3.
$33.15 each, plus shipping & handling. |
|||||
 Driveshaft
Rubber Flex Coupler. Fits Cub Cadet models: 482, 580, 582, 682, 782,
782D, 800, 882, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1050, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211,
1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1541, 1604, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811,
1812, 1860, 1872, 1912, 1914 and 2072. NOTE: Certain tractors require
two flex couplers between coupler arms. Allows out-of-alignment rotation
of driveshaft in ISO-mounted engine tractors to prevent damage to the clutch
parts or hydrostatic pump. Has larger center hole than coupler above to clear
housing in coupler arm for self-aligning spherical bushing. Very tough,
reinforced weaved fiber/rubber material. Can be substituted for flex coupler
above. Can also be used in an angled steering shaft setup as a U-joint with
the coupler arm(s) above in a custom-built mini-rod pulling tractor. 13/32"
bolt holes spaced 3" apart. OEM Cub Cadet part # 722-3000. $21.70
each, plus shipping & handling. |
|||||
The main cause of breakage of the OEM Cub Cadet aluminum hub
adapter on competition pulling engines that run at wide open throttle is
using out-of-balance OEM clutch pressure plates and OEM 3-pin clutch drive
plate, and/or not installing the large flat washer under the nut or bolt
(as described below Ê). So as long as
the clutch pressure plates and 3-pin clutch drive plate are trued-up in a
unworn metal lathe to remove the run-out or wobble so they'll be precision
balanced, this hub have been known to hold up very well even in a highly
modified competition pulling tractor as long as the original 1/4" thick
x no less than 1-1/4" O.D. flat washer is installed under the flywheel nut
or bolt with hardened 1/4" bolts w/split lock washers to securely fasten
the drive plate to the hub. Otherwise, it's pretty tough.
Separate the Brake and Clutch Operations - (This have been done by many professional pullers in the past.)
Cub Cadet garden tractors that have the brakes integrated with the clutch/brake pedal, when applying the brakes on a competition pulling tractor that has an extremely stiff clutch pressure spring (on the driveshaft), great effort is required (strong leg muscles) to overcome and compress the clutch spring before the brakes can be safely applied. When rolling the tractor off a trailer, this also requires even greater effort to depress the clutch/brake pedal to apply the brakes especially by hand (and arm muscles). What can be done to change this is separate the brake(s) and the clutch operations by disconnecting the brake linkage from the clutch/brake pedal cross shaft, and fabricate a long upright lever (with an adjustable linkage) on the right side of the steering column support pedestal which can be easily and effortlessly pulled back (rearward) by hand to apply the brakes. The clutch/brake pedal will then become just a "clutch pedal," and the lever will be the "brake lever." This would make it much safer and easier to fully stop or slow the tractor down a steep hill or when unloading the tractor down the ramp(s) of a utility trailer or platform work table. Also, a "parking brake" lock mechanism can be installed on the brake lever-to-tractor frame to securely lock the brakes in position to prevent the tractor from rolling or coasting when the tractor is out of gear and the engine running.
If an OEM 3-pin clutch drive
plate is bent next to the drive studs (MTD) or coiled/spiral pin collars
(IH), to fix this:
If the bronze pilot bushing in a drive plate is excessively worn, this means that the pressure plates are badly out of balance and/or there was no lubricating grease applied to the bushing or on the driveshaft before installation of the clutch assembly in the tractor. In either case, resurface the pressure plates until they're perfectly flat and true-up the edge to prevent wobble in a metal lathe. IMPORTANT: To ensure true flatness when resurfacing pressure plates, use a lathe that's in good condition with very little wear on the ways! (IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable using a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist with a lathe.)
Advertisement:
| If you would
like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website,
and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance and support,
please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank
Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.
When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly
with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to
the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we
can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
|
 Extra Thick Flywheel / Aluminum
Hub Adapter Retaining Washers. A must to secure flywheel and prevent OEM
Cub Cadet or billet aluminum hub adapter breakage. Each made of steel and
measures approximately 1/4" thick x 1-1/4" O.D.
|
 Step Washer. Use to center
cast aluminum or billet hub adapter with a 5/8" hole to a crankshaft with
the 3/8" bolt on later model Kohler K-series and all Magnum engines. A must
to prevent severe wobble/vibration and prevent hub and/or driveshaft/clutch
breakage. Dimensions: 3/8" I.D. x 5/8" O.D. step x approximately 1-1/4" overall
O.D. x 1/2" overall height. Professionally machined by Brian Miller.
|
Cub Cadet hub adapters with
5/8" center hole (early K-series), w/pulley, w/dowel pin.
Cub Cadet hub adapters with 3/8" center hole (later K-series, all KT-series and Magnum), w/o pulley, w/dowel pin.
|
 1/4" diameter x 3/4" length
hardened steel dowel pin for OEM and billet aluminum hub adapters. Secures
aluminum hub to flywheel to prevent slippage. Replaces Cub Cadet part # KH-X-56-7
and Kohler part # X-56-7. $1.50 each, plus shipping & handling. |
 Flywheel grass/safety steel
screen for use in IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractors with Kohler engine models
K161 and K181. 5-9/16" diameter.
|
 Flywheel grass/safety steel
screen for use in IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractors with Kohler engine models
K241 and K301. 7" diameter.
|
Resurfacing and Truing Up Worn and Warped Pressure Plates -
For any clutch disc to adhere or grip well and to prevent slippage, both pressure plates must be resurfaced until they're perfectly flat in a metal lathe. (IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable using a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist with a lathe.) The outer edge should be trued-up too, to prevent wobble, which can cause the pilot bushing to wear excessively. For a used clutch assembly, chances are, the composite/fiber clutch disc is worn to match the wear on the pressure plates. If the clutch disc is worn, but still reusable, it can be resurfaced until perfectly flat in the lathe as well. For best clutch adhesion and to lessen the chance of slippage, the clutch-to-pressure plates surface contact areas must be flat against flat for 100% contact. Because new OEM Cub Cadet pressure plates are made of stamped steel and are not machined whatsoever. This means they are not perfectly flat and they wobble from the factory. If used pressure plates have not been resurfaced before, then chances are, they'll still be thick enough after being resurfaced. Always remove the minimal amount of metal to retain maximum thickness so they will not warp when hot.
NOTE: Before reassembling the clutch assembly, apply a thin coat of lubricating grease on the area of the driveshaft where the throw-out bearing and where the rear pressure plate slides back and forth. The grease will assure full clutch disengagement, lessen wear to the driveshaft, and it will prevent the rear pressure plate from sticking to the driveshaft due to rust if the tractor is stored in a damp environment. Also, while the rear pressure plate is off the driveshaft, to prevent it from binding on the 2nd coiled/spiral pin, which can prevent the clutch from disengaging, widen the slot slightly with a flat file or on the edge of the blade on a chopsaw. (Be sure to wear safety glasses!) And it'll be a good idea to drill a small hole near the center of the rear pressure plate to relieve the air that can get trapped between the pressure plates.
Advertisement:
| If you would
like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website,
and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance and support,
please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank
Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.
When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly
with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to
the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we
can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
|
New Front Cub Cadet Pressure Plate w/Hole. OEM Cub Cadet part #'s IH-384651-R11, 903-0214. $104.00 each, plus shipping & New Rear Cub Cadet Pressure Plate w/Slot. OEM Cub Cadet part #'s IH-384648-R21, IH-63815-C1, 903-0213. $145.40 each, plus shipping & handling. |
Warped pressure plates will allow a single or even double clutches to slip. They warp due to overheating and normal wear. When they get warped, they don't have full contact with the entire surface of the clutch disc. Whenever a new clutch disc is installed, rather if it's an OEM one or made of aluminum, the pressure plates should always be resurfaced until perfectly flat and trued up in a metal lathe. (IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable using a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist with a lathe.) New OEM Cub Cadet pressure plates are stamped in a press and not machined in a lathe. This means they're not as flat or turn as true as ones that's been machined in a lathe. Therefore, if new or used pressure plates are going to be used for pulling or heavy lawn and garden use, have the outer edge trued up and have the clutch contact area resurfaced until perfectly flat in a metal lathe. Because new OEM Cub Cadet pressure plates are made of stamped steel and are not machined whatsoever. This means they are not perfectly flat and they wobble from the factory. If used pressure plates have not been resurfaced before, then chances are, they'll still be thick enough after being resurfaced. Always remove the minimal amount of metal to retain maximum thickness so they will not warp when hot.
The OEM Cub Cadet pressure plates are 3/16" (.188") thick. On the average, approximately .005" of metal is removed from the face of each pressure plate after it has been resurfaced until perfectly flat. Removing this much metal will not weaken the plates whatsoever, even when used with a very stout pressure spring.
With both pressure plates properly resurfaced until perfectly flat, the single OEM composite/fiber clutch, with 4-1/2" diameter pressure plates, has a total disc to plate contact area of 17.7 square inches. When doubled (as in double clutches including the 4-1/2" diameter center drive plate), it has a total contact area of 36 square inches. This is why double clutches hold so well in pulling. It's the same as using a bigger clutch that has more contact area. And double-clutches will have even more contact area with 4-5/8" diameter pressure plates!
The aluminum disc on the other hand (as described in this web site), has a total contact area of 29.8 square inches. You may look at this disc and ask, "where's the friction material?" Well, the aluminum itself is the friction material. A single aluminum disc will adhere to (grip) steel a lot better than a single composite/fiber clutch disc. Both of these type of clutches (the single aluminum and double composite/fiber clutch disc), when used with a high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring, has been proven to hold very well in pulling. If everything is machined, precision balanced, installed and adjusted correctly, the aluminum or double-disc clutch system including the driveshaft could possibly last the life of the tractor. Even when used in high-performance conditions.
IMPORTANT: To ensure true flatness when resurfacing pressure plates, use a lathe that's in good condition with very little wear on the ways!
Save the Hubs!
If the discs in your pressure plates are heavily rusted, worn too thin or warped badly and resurfacing them in a lathe didn't do any good, instead of making two entirely new pressure plates, what could be done is remove the center hub from each disc with a hydraulic press and reuse the hubs to make two new pressure plates. This would save from having to fabricate a couple of new hubs.
If the center hole in the slotted hub of the rear [sliding] pressure plate is worn oblong (rare), the hole can be repaired by boring it true in a metal lathe, and a steel sleeve bushing will need to be pressed in and welded in to prevent it from coming loose, and the hole in the bushing will need to be center-bored to .626". The slot will need to be carefully ground out in the bushing to match the slot in the hub using the blade in an electric chop saw with a metal cut-off wheel. Finally, the face of the pressure plate can be resurfaced and trued-up in the metal lathe. (Remember to wear safety glasses!) (IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable using a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist with a lathe.)
Use distilled white vinegar to remove rust from inside gas tanks, tools, bolts/nuts, clutch pressure plates or virtually any steel or cast iron part: vinegar rust removal - YouTube.
If a single composite/fiber clutch disc slips in a stock competition pulling tractor, then what is required to prevent clutch slippage is to install a single piece of machined aluminum to serve as a clutch disc. With resurfaced pressure plates and a high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring, aluminum should grip and hold up well when used in a stock competition pulling tractor. By the way, the OEM sandwiched steel composite/fiber clutch disc and an aluminum clutch disc weighs almost the same; about 10.6 ounces each.
The aluminum clutch disc works best for low RPM stock engines. I use the aluminum clutch disc in our stock competition pulling tractors and the double OEM-composite/fiber clutches in our higher horsepower tractors. I haven't had any problems with either clutches for several years.
If a single, lightweight aluminum clutch disc is used, there's no need to install three extra studs in the 3-pin drive plate (see below Ê ). But definitely have both pressure plates resurfaced until perfectly flat as described above È . Depending on the size of engine and weight of tractor, the aluminum clutch disc require a tougher driveshaft along with a high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring. And it'll be a good idea to install a center support bearing (center support pillow block bearing and brace) to prevent the driveshaft from wobbling at 4,000 RPM. Also, if the pressure plates are properly resurfaced until perfectly flat and if aluminum is used, the aluminum will not excessively wear or melt onto them.
The
biggest mistake a puller can make when launching a tractor is letting the
clutch out all of a sudden with the engine revved up. So when using aluminum
as a clutch disc (or any metallic clutch material), and when the tractor
is hooked to the sled, always remember to "slip" the clutch upon take-off.
To do this, first rev up the engine (a lot), then slowly ease out on the
clutch pedal. Because an
aluminum clutch
disc may not "slip" at low RPM, and because aluminum
adheres to steel very well when under pressure, if the pedal is let out all
of a sudden with the engine revved up, and if the tires don't spin, something
could break or get damaged in the drive train or transaxle. The 5/8" zinc-plated
steel split lock washer that's placed between the pressure plates will aide
greatly in smooth clutch engagement/release and it lessens the possibility
of the clutch from "grabbing" upon take-off.
Advertisement:
| If
you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this
website, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance
and support, please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501
W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.
When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly
with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to
the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we
can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
|
|
| High quality aftermarket
composite/fiber material clutch disc for clutch-drive Cub Cadet garden
tractors. Comes with 6 drive holes; can be used with a 3- or 6-pin drive
plate. Made of very tough and long-lasting material. Suitable for general
or heavy duty yard and garden use, and competition pulling tractors. Replaces
Cub Cadet part # 961-3002. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
OEM Cub Cadet clutch disc with 3 drive holes. Must be used with a 3-pin drive plate. Each has sandwiched steel reinforcement.
FYI - About 90% of the composite/fiber material in clutch discs will chip off were the holes are due to the following reasons:
|
|
 Teasing Spring
and Protective Thrust Washer. Fits all Cub Cadet clutch drive garden tractors,
including Cub Cadet "Original" and Cub Cadet models 1250, 1450 and 1650 equipped
with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment. The thrust washer goes between
the rear slotted pressure plate and teasing spring. Each time the clutch
is engaged, sometimes the end of the spring will "catch" in the slot of the
pressure plate, which twists the spring a few thousandths of an inch. Overtime,
this creates metal fatigue in the spring and could cause it to eventually
break, even with the cup/spacer below. The thrust washer prevents this from
happening. NOTE: There is a custom-made sleeve available from an aftermarket
vendor that goes over the teasing spring (much like the cup/spacer below).
Being the teasing spring does not expand outward when the clutch is engaged,
this sleeve will not prevent the spring from twisting and possibly breaking.
Therefore, it's best to install the protective thrust washer instead. An
ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised
copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my
intelligence.)
|
|
 Cup/Spacer for
Teasing Spring. Made specifically for Cub Cadet clutch drive garden tractor
models 582, 800, 1000, 1200, 1535, 1604, 1606 and 1806, including Cub Cadet
models 1250, 1450 and 1650 equipped with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment.
Overall length: .605". NOTE: Do not install this part in a narrow
frame Cub Cadet garden tractor! It will position the throw-out bearing further
back on the driveshaft and not allow the clutch to fully disengage or disengage
at all. IMPORTANT: When installing this part on driveshaft, the
wide/flared-end face forward and the narrow end goes against the throw-out
bearing. And do not install this part on a driveshaft that originally did
not come with it. It will set the throw-out bearing back too far, making
correct throw-out bearing to release lever clearance
adjustment impossible and the brakes may not work.
|
|
 Cup/Spacer for
Teasing Spring. Made specifically for Cub Cadet garden tractor model 1050;
2" overall length. Comes with installed grease fitting.
IMPORTANT: When installing this part on driveshaft, the wide/flared
end faces forward and the narrow end goes against the
clutch release/throw-out bearing. No
longer available from Cub Cadet. Replaces Cub Cadet part # 711-3282.
|
|
A-1 Miller's Original Machined Aluminum Clutch Disc Kit. Includes
6-hole aluminum clutch disc, 5/8" I.D. split lock washer (goes between pressure
plates for smooth clutch engagement and guaranteed release) and steel spacer
(replaces teaser spring). NOTE: Use only with the
red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.)
pressure spring to prevent clutch slippage. This is an alternate
and direct replacement for the composite/fiber
material clutch disc. Made of the highest quality 6061 alloy; medium-grade
hardness aluminum available. The 1-1/8" center hole in disc is bored dead
center, and the circumference is turned true in my metal lathe, then the
6 drive holes are precision-drilled using my 8" super spacer with a 6-notch
masking plate on the table of my milling machine. Unlike some of my competitor's
copycat part, the drive holes in my aluminum clutch discs are drilled 13/32"
for less clutch disc noise/rattle and less chance of breakage to the drive
pins/studs. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please
accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate
them acknowledging my intelligence.)
IMPORTANT - It is highly recommended that both pressure plates be trued-up
(to reduce vibration) and resurfaced (machined) in a metal lathe to remove
warpage until perfectly flat or severe clutch slippage may result! Because
new OEM Cub Cadet pressure plates are made of stamped steel and are not machined
whatsoever. This means they are not perfectly flat and they wobble from the
factory. If used pressure plates have not been resurfaced before, then chances
are, they'll still be thick enough after being resurfaced. Always remove
the minimal amount of metal to retain maximum thickness so they will not
warp when hot.
CUB CADET
124 WORK PART 2 - YouTube
|
|
 Clutch Disc
Anti-Rattle Spring. Reduces noisy composite/fiber or aluminum clutch disc
rattle on drive pins/studs. Although one spring may be sufficient to reduce
clutch noise, it may be necessary to install three springs (one for each
pin/stud) for 100% reduced clutch noise. Can be used on composite/fiber or
aluminum clutch discs. NOTE: Recommended for up to 4,000 RPM engines.
Not for use on high RPM or wide open throttle competition pulling tractors
due to normal engine harmonic vibrations that travels out into the clutch
assembly, this can create the possibility of the spring(s) becoming dislodged,
which could become a hazardous airborne projectile if clutch is not properly
shielded 360º. So if possible, install these springs with the coil between
the clutch disc and drive plate, opposite that is shown in the picture to
the right, to prevent them from coming off.
|
How to Make a composite/fiber or the Aluminum Clutch Disc Engage Smoothly -
The OEM Cub Cadet cushion spring (as it is called in the early/narrow frame Cub Cadets) or teasing spring (as it is called in the later models/wide and spread frame Cub Cadets) goes between the rear pressure plate and clutch release/throw-out bearing. It's purpose is to allow the rear pressure plate to gently press against the clutch disc as the clutch is engaged without having a "jerky" clutch. When using an aluminum clutch disc, the teasing spring can be replaced with a steel spacer or a stack of small outside diameter flat washers (the ones that originally comes on Cub Cadet driveshafts) and an ordinary, zinc-plated steel split lock washer. Install the lock washer between the pressure plates (dead center of the clutch disc) for a smoother clutch engagement. Clutch slippage may result if used with the OEM Cub Cadet clutch pressure spring. Therefore, the aluminum clutch disc should be used with a stiffer-than-stock pressure spring, such as the high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring.
For the narrow-frame Cub Cadets,
the steel spacer needs to be 3/8" in length. (The teasing spring is compressed
to 3/8" when the clutch is fully engaged.) And for Cub Cadet models 86, 108,
128, 800, 1000, 1200 and 1535, the spacer needs to 5/8" length or use the
OEM protective cup/spacer (for the teasing) that originally comes on the
driveshaft, but leave the teasing spring out. By the way - the small end
of the protective cup/spacer goes against the
clutch release/throw-out bearing. If a too
long of a spacer or the protective spacer/cup is used in a narrow frame model,
the clutch release/throw-out bearing would
set too far back on the driveshaft and when the clutch/brake pedal is depressed,
the release lever will make contact with the
steering box and the clutch will not be able to release.
To prevent the teasing spring
from possibly breaking and to help the clutch(es) to engage more smoothly,
simply don't use the teasing spring. Instead, replace where the teasing spring
goes on the driveshaft with a piece of heavy wall round steel tubing that
measures 7/8" O.D. x 3/8" (narrow frame) or 5/8" (wide frame) long x 41/64"
I.D. Then install an ordinary zinc-plated 5/8" I.D. split lock washer between
the pressure plates, dead center of the clutch disc. Use two zinc-plated
steel split lock washers (one for each clutch disc) if using double clutches.
Lock washers have a spring-like action too, plus they'll last a lot longer
than a teasing spring.
The lock washer does two things - it acts like a spring, which forces the pressure plates apart, it provides smooth clutch engagement and it'll help to prevent the possibility of the clutch disc from "grabbing" upon take-off. In addition, the spring-like action of the lock washer will expand the pressure plates when the clutch/brake pedal is fully depressed so they will release from the clutch disc. Doing this will guarantee that the clutch will engage smoothly and release every time. So when reassembling a clutch assembly, don't install the teasing spring. Instead, install the spacer and lock washer as described above È. You'll be glad you did.
Or for a bullet-proof teasing spring setup, and/or if the aluminum clutch disc doesn't engage smoothly, instead of using the 5/8" lock washer between the pressure plates and the teasing spring or a steel spacer, install a flat washer, the 5/8" lock washer, then another flat washer until they all total to about 3/8" or 5/8" in height with the lock washer fully uncompressed.
The correct order of installing Cub Cadet clutch parts on the driveshaft is listed below Ê. NOTE: Before reassembling the clutch assembly, apply a thin coat of lubricating grease on the area of the driveshaft where the throw-out bearing and where the rear pressure plate slides back and forth. The grease will assure full clutch disengagement, lessen wear to the driveshaft, and it will prevent the rear pressure plate from sticking to the driveshaft due to rust if the tractor is stored in a damp environment. Also, while the rear pressure plate is off the driveshaft, to prevent it from binding on the 2nd coiled/spiral pin, which can prevent the clutch from disengaging, widen the slot slightly with a flat file or on the edge of the blade on a chopsaw. (Be sure to wear safety glasses!) And it'll be a good idea to drill a small hole near the center of the rear pressure plate to relieve the air that can get trapped between the pressure plates.
| 1. Install 3rd coiled/spiral pin then the main
pressure spring. 2. Install clutch release/throw-out bearing (small end facing forward of tractor). 3. Install release lever . 4. Install protective spacer/cup (small end goes against clutch release/throw-out bearing). 5. Install teasing spring or steel spacer. |
6. Compress the pressure spring and install the 2nd
coiled/spiral pin. 7. Install pressure plate w/slotted hub. 8. Install zinc-plated steel split lock washer (use only with very stiff pressure spring). 9. Install clutch disc. 10. Install pressure plate w/solid hub, then the 1st coiled/spiral pin. |
How to Replace a Broken Teasing Spring on a Cub Cadet Driveshaft (with the driveshaft in the tractor) - (Added 8/28/17)
To disassemble the clutch components from the driveshaft, this is how I do it:
For safety, a
hydraulic press should be used to compress the large pressure
spring on the driveshaft to reassemble the clutch components!
To test how well the clutch will release out of the tractor, place the clutch assembly in the hydraulic press with each end of the release lever on a couple of blocks, and apply slight downward pressure on the end of the driveshaft. The clutch disc should rotate or "move around" freely without binding. If the disc doesn't rotate or binds, redo your work to find out what went wrong.
How to Fix a "Sticking" Cub Cadet Clutch (when it will not release) -
Before reassembling the clutch assembly, apply a thin coat of lubricating grease on the area of the driveshaft where the throw-out bearing and where the rear pressure plate slides back and forth. The grease will assure full clutch disengagement, lessen wear to the driveshaft, and it will prevent the rear pressure plate from sticking to the driveshaft due to rust if the tractor is stored in a damp environment. Also, while the rear pressure plate is off the driveshaft, to prevent it from binding on the 2nd coiled/spiral pin, which can prevent the clutch from disengaging, widen the slot slightly with a flat file or on the edge of the blade on a chopsaw. (Be sure to wear safety glasses!) And it'll be a good idea to drill a small hole near the center of the rear pressure plate to relieve the air that can get trapped between the pressure plates.
The Much Over-Looked Clutch Release Lever Clevis Pin -
If the straight 3/8" diameter
OEM Cub Cadet
clevis pin that goes through the clutch hanger bracket
and release lever is worn, this part should be
replaced with an angled or L-shaped pivot pin. As the engine runs with the
clutch fully engaged (foot off the clutch pedal, of course), due to normal
engine vibration and slight out-of-balance rotating clutch parts, the OEM
round pin continually spins, causing the pin itself and the holes in the
hanger bracket to wear. The holes in the release
lever rarely wear because the entire lever is made of hardened, heat-treated
steel. By replacing the round pin with an angled pin (with the short end
long enough to make contact with the tractor frame or hanger bracket), it
can't spin. Therefore, there'll be much less wear on the pin and holes, the
clutch release/throw-out bearing will last
longer, there'll be less noise coming from the clutch parts, clutch operation
will be smoother, and clutch adjustment will remain the same for a longer
time. (I think the engineers at IH Cub Cadet should have originally installed
an angled pin in their tractors. But then again, they probably didn't plan
on their tractors being in use 40-50 years later.)
Advertisement:
| If
you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this
website, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance
and support, please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501
W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.
When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly
with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to
the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we
can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
|
|||
Pivot and Clevis
Pins for Cub Cadet clutch release lever/hanger
brackets. This is an alternative to using the OEM straight clevis pin or
a grade 8 bolt and lock nut. The angled/L-shaped pin prevents the holes in
the release lever and hanger bracket from wearing
oblong due to constant spinning of the OEM straight clevis pin while the
tractor is in operation. The angled/L-shaped pin lessens clutch noise, reduces
erratic clutch pedal operation, maintains clutch adjustment and allows for
smoother clutch operation. Each made of 3/8" diameter mild steel. For clutch
drive Cub Cadet models: 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 106, 108, 122,
124, 126, 128, 580, 582, 800, 1000, 1050, 1200, 1604, 1606 and 1806. The
angled/L-shaped pin is an ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller.
Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate
them acknowledging my intelligence.)
|
|||
 New
clutch hanger bracket for narrow frame clutch drive IH Cub Cadet models 70,
71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124 and 126.
|
|||
 New
clutch hanger bracket for wide frame clutch drive IH Cub Cadet models 86,
108, 128, 800, 1000 and 1200. Also for models 1250, 1450 and 1650 with a
hydrostatic disconnect attachment.
A-1 Miller's Repair Service - Weld up worn and oblong clutch release lever pivot pin holes, redrill holes and grind smooth for your hanger bracket. $30.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling. |
|||
 New
clutch hanger bracket for spread frame clutch drive, IH- or MTD-built Cub
Cadet models 580, 582, 1050, 1604, 1606 and 1806. May also fit model 1535.
Requires clevis pin w/cotter pin.
A-1 Miller's Repair Service - Weld up worn and oblong clutch release lever pivot pin holes, redrill holes and grind smooth for your hanger bracket. $30.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling. |
|||
 New
clutch hanger bracket for spread frame clutch drive MTD-built Cub Cadet model
1535. May also fit models 580, 582, 1050, 1604, 1606 and 1806. Requires shoulder
bolt w/locknut.
|
|||
 New
Clutch Release Lever for all narrow frame clutch drive Cub Cadet models
70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124 and 126. 7-7/8" overall length.
Discontinued from Cub Cadet. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-384657-R5.
|
|||
 New Clutch Release
Lever for Cub Cadet models 86, 108 and 128. Can also be used for models 800,
1000 and 1200 with solid motor mounts. Stock
8-1/4" overall length.
|
|||
 New Clutch Release
Lever for Cub Cadet models 800, 1000 and 1200. Can also can be used for models
86, 108 and 128 with no modifications. Also for models 1250, 1450 and 1650
with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment. Stock 8-1/4" overall length.
|
|||
 New Clutch Release
Lever for all spread frame IH- and MTD-built Cub Cadet models 580, 582, 1050,
1535, 1604, 1606 and 1806. Stock 9-3/4" overall length.
|
|||
 A-1 Miller's
Repair Service of Worn Hole for Release Rod in IH Cub Cadet "Original" [Round]
Clutch Arm to Remove Excessive Free Play in Clutch/Brake Pedal - The
clutch arm fastens on the clutch/brake cross shaft and rotates slightly to
disengage the drive clutch when the clutch/brake pedal is depressed. Work
includes: Precision-align bore/enlarge worn/oblong hole in clutch arm with
milling machine, and press-in new steel bushing/sleeve tight with red Loctite
so it will not loosen. Then I.D. of bushing is precision-align bored with
milling machine to exactly 3/8". Otherwise, being the hole is worn oblong,
if the bushing/sleeve is pressed-in without enlarging it first, this would
distort the bushing and ruin it. FYI - The clutch release arm is discontinued
from Cub Cadet and it's OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-376276-R1. (Part number shown
for identification of clutch arm only.)
|
|||
 Clutch
Adjustment/Release Rod for IH Cub Cadet "Original". Length 6-7/8" from inside
of bend to end of threads.
|
|||
 Nylon Insert
Self-Locking Nut for 3/8" diameter threaded L-shaped clutch adjustment/release
rod. Replace OEM adjusting nut with worn threads to maintain correct clutch
adjustment on virtually all clutch drive Cub Cadet garden tractors. Grade
8 material with 3/8-24 UNF threads. Guaranteed to stay tight. NOTE: Use
a (9/16" size) boxed-in ratcheting wrench (below) for easier and precise
clutch adjustment.
|
|||
 9/16"
size open-end and boxed-in ratcheting wrench for easier and precise Cub Cadet
clutch adjustment. High quality and durable. Spring-loaded catch and
release action. Makes clutch adjustment much easier, more accurate and quicker
than using an ordinary open-end or boxed-end wrench. Turn wrench around to
forward or reverse nut to increase or decrease clutch lever to
clutch release/throw-out bearing clearance.
|
|||
 Clutch Release
Tension Spring for all narrow, wide and spread frame Cub Cadet models. Slips
over threaded end of 3/8" diameter L-shaped clutch adjustment/release rod.
Necessary to maintain correct clutch adjustment and reduce clutch noise.
Also fits mower deck lift handle rod. Dimensions: 13/32" I.D. x 3-3/4"
uncompressed length.
|
|||
 Clutch Pedal Return
Springs. A must for clutch-drive Cub Cadet garden tractors to prevent premature
wear to clutch release/throw-out bearing
and clutch release lever, and prevent annoying
rattling sound. Fits Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, 100, 102, 104, 105, 122,
123, 124 and 125. 2-1/2" unextended length between hooks.
|
How to Save a Used Clutch Release/Throw-Out Bearing - An ingenious
and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this.
If
a used clutch release/throw-out bearing is
still pretty much "tight," but sounds noisy or "rattles" when you spin it
by hand, it could be saved from further wear by pumping it full of lubricating
grease. The same can be done to a new bearing to ensure that it will last
a long time. (I've done this many times when I rebuild clutch assemblies
and have never had one complaint!) The fresh grease will help keep the
balls within the bearing well-lubricated and cool, preventing them from further
wear. But if the bearing is badly worn or if you're in doubt about doing
this, then perhaps install a new one. (Cub Cadet part # 741-3056)
When assembling the clutch
components, never install the clutch release/throw-out bearing on the
driveshaft backwards! Install it with the collar (the center part that
sticks out) towards the clutch disc.
How To Save A Used clutch release/throw-out bearing:
Using either a
needle grease injector (resembles a hypodermic syringe
that attaches to an
automotive grease gun) or a
chainsaw bar tip grease gun, pump the bearing through the
drilled hole until it's full of lubricating grease. Rotate the bearing 180º
and pump it again. It's full when the grease starts to ooze out of the dust
seals.
The same procedure above È can be done to many types of used precision, high-speed sealed roller bearings, besides just clutch release/throw-out bearings. And for anyone who's ever wondered about this, when the clutch/brake pedal is fully depressed, the clutch release/throw-out bearing moves back 3/8" on the driveshaft.
| If you would
like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website,
and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance and support,
please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank
Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.
When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly
with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to
the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we
can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
|
  Self-Centering, Self-Aligning Bearings and Retainers for front
of IH Cub Cadet "Original" driveshaft.
|
Bronze Bushing. Fits inside
IH Cub Cadet "Original" clutch release collar housing. Grind or drill hole
in bushing to lubricate through Zerk grease
fitting. Dimensions: 1" I.D. x 1.125" O.D. x 1" length. Discontinued
from Cub Cadet. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-376259-R1.
|
 Needle Thrust Bearing and
Two Thrust Washers. Goes inside IH Cub Cadet "Original" clutch release collar
housing. Dimensions: 1" I.D. x 1-9/16" O.D. x .030" thickness thrust washers.
|
 IH Cub Cadet "Original" Clutch
Release Collar Assembly. Replace worn-beyond-reuse clutch release collar
housing. Includes clutch release collar housing, new bronze bushing and new
thrust needle bearing with two new thrust washers. Discontinued from Cub
Cadet. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-376258-R11.
|
 Extra Thick Flat Washer. Used
to apply pressure against rear pressure plate in IH Cub Cadet "Original"
clutch assembly. Dimensions: 1-3/4" O.D. x approximately 5/32" thickness
x .626" center hole. Discontinued from Cub Cadet. Replaces Cub Cadet part
# IH-25556-R1.
|
 Clutch Release/Throw-Out
Bearings for all IH-built narrow frame clutch drive Cub Cadet models 70,
71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124 and 126. Bearing dimensions:
5/8" I.D. x 1.570" O.D. NOTE: The protruding center part faces forward
in the tractor, toward the engine.
 Lubricating Sleeve with Zerk
Grease Fitting for use with the short clutch release/throw-out bearing above
È. When reassembling clutch parts on
narrow- or wide-frame Cub Cadet driveshaft, a thin coat of lubricating grease
between the clutch release/throw-out bearing and driveshaft is all they receive
for the life of the driveshaft until it's disassembled again for rebuilding.
This part allows for easy lubrication and saves wear to driveshaft from sliding
friction due to movement of clutch release/throw-out bearing, especially
with a heavy (red or yellow) main pressure spring. Also allows for easier
and smoother clutch pedal depression. Sleeve installs between clutch
release/throw-out bearing and main pressure spring with grease fitting toward
the spring for easier access. Heavy wall tubing measures .626" I.D. x 1"
O.D. x 3/4"± length. Third coiled/spiral pin hole or
split clamping/locking
collar(s) behind pressure spring may need to be relocated 3/4"
further back on the driveshaft. IMPORTANT: Lubricate driveshaft through
grease fitting in bushing with an
automotive grease gun once a year. An ingenious,
thoroughly researched and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody
else advertise the use of this part.
|
 Clutch Release/Throw-Out
Bearings for all wide and spread frame IH- and MTD-built Cub Cadet models
108, 128, 580, 582, 800, 1000, 1050, 1200, 1535, 1604, 1606 and 1806. Also
fits Cub Cadet models 1250, 1450 and 1650 with hydrostatic disconnect attachment.
Bearing dimensions: .780" I.D. x 1.850" O.D. x .550" height. This larger
diameter bearing covers more area in the wide and spread frame
release levers for longer wear to lever. IMPORTANT:
Lubricate driveshaft through bushing with an
automotive grease gun once a year.
|
 Zerk
Grease Fittings. Use a 1/4-28 UNF hand tap to cut new threads for
installation of a new fitting.
Click or tap here
to learn how to cut new threads, the professional way.
|
IH Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Mechanical PTO Clutch Rebuild Components - [Top of Page]
 Carbon Wear Button for IH
Cub Cadet Mechanical PTO Clutch. Fits garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73,
86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127,
128, 129, 147, 149 and 169. This part installs in the mower deck engagement
lever on the frame of tractor. It makes contact with the metal button to
the right. Secure with Super Glue. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-473483-R2.
$8.05 each, plus shipping & handling. |
 Metal Thrust Button for
IH Cub Cadet Mechanical PTO Clutch. Fits garden tractor models 70, 71, 72,
73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126,
127, 128, 129, 147, 149 and 169. This part installs in the center of the
PTO clutch assembly. It makes contact with the carbon button to the left.
OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-473477-R3. $11.65 each, plus shipping &
handling. |
The Clutch Pedal Return Spring and Maintaining Proper Clutch Adjustment -
Install the clutch pedal return spring to prevent from wearing
both the clutch release/throw-out bearing
and release lever. Don't just install a cotter
pin in place of it. A pedal return spring is a short, very stiff, expansion
spring with a hook on each end. The size is approximately 3/4" diameter x
2-1/8" in overall length. And do not "ride the clutch"! Take your foot
off the clutch pedal when the tractor is in motion.
The return spring connects from the hole in the end of the clutch adjustment/release rod to a hole in the cross member that's in the tractor's frame. Install one end of the spring in the linkage first, then install the other end in the cross member. NOTE: It may be difficult to get the end of the spring in the hole because of the tension, but it can be done and it MUST be done. (I do it all the time with our muscles, Vise Grips and a little leverage from our trusty small pry bar.)
There are no adjustments for the pedal return spring. It's job is to prevent the release lever from making connect with a clutch release/throw-out bearing when the clutch pedal is fully disengaged. The pedal return spring attaches from the clutch adjustment/release rod that runs from the release lever back to the bell crank that's on the clutch/brake pedal shaft. This shaft goes crossways through the frame of the tractor. It is very important that the tractor have a pedal return spring to prevent wearing of the clutch release/throw-out bearing against the release lever (it will wear, too) while the clutch pedal is fully disengaged and the tractor is in operation.
If a pedal return spring is not installed or if the operator "rides the clutch" when pulling or when the tractor is in operation (keeping one's foot on the clutch pedal at all times), this will cause the clutch release/throw-out bearing to spin the same speed as the engine, wearing it out prematurely. This will also wear the release lever as well. So making the proper adjustment and not "riding the clutch" will help the clutch release/throw-out bearing last a very long time. The return spring connects from the hole in the end of the clutch adjustment/release rod to a hole in the cross member in the tractor's frame. NOTE: It may be somewhat difficult to get the end of the spring in the hole because of the tension, but it can be done, and it must be done. (I do it all the time with our Vise Grips and a little leverage from our trusty small pry bar.)
How to Set the Correct Cub Cadet Drive Clutch Adjustment -
When the clutch/brake pedal
is fully disengaged (not depressed), no part of the
clutch release/throw-out bearing is supposed
to make contact with the clutch release lever.
Otherwise, the clutch
release/throw-out bearing will turn the same RPM as the engine. If
these continually make contact with the engine running and while the tractor
is in motion, the driveshaft will continually spin the
throw-out bearing, causing it to overheat
and eventually burn-out, and the contact area on the
release lever will likely to wear excessively.
The excessive heat from the overheated throw-out bearing could travel into
and weaken (damage) the front end of the main pressure spring too, making
it place less pressure against the clutch disc. This will occur with ordinary
lawn and garden, and competition pulling tractors alike. Therefore, to determine
the proper clearance and adjust for the "safe" distance between the
throw-out
bearing and release lever, with the
clutch/brake pedal fully disengaged (not depressed) and the clutch/brake
pedal arm against the pedal stop, which is a small angled steel spot-welded
to the tractor frame, and with a pedal return spring installed, adjust the
self-locking nut on the L-shaped clutch adjustment/release rod (that's on
the lower part of the release lever) until there's
approximately 9/32" - 5/16" of clearance between the pedal arm and pedal
stop. This will allow for .050" - .060" (approximately 1/16") of clearance
between the throw-out
bearing and release lever.
Use a
9/16" size boxed-in ratcheting wrench to
make the clutch adjustment much easier. And an accurate way to check for
the correct clearance between the clutch
release/throw-out bearing and clutch release
lever is to use a 7mm or 5/16" rod or square stock as a thickness gauge.
When the self-locking nut on the L-shaped adjustment/release rod is turned
clockwise (when facing the front of the tractor), this decreases the clearance,
and when the nut is turned counterclockwise, this increases the clearance.
Also, if a tractor doesn't already have one, definitely install a
pedal return spring
(extension spring) of the correct length on the clutch
adjustment/release rod to the hole in the cross member that's welded between
the frame rails so pressure from the release lever
will be taken off the clutch release/throw-out
bearing when the clutch/brake pedal is fully disengaged (not depressed)
to prevent from premature and excessive wearing of the clutch release/throw-out
bearing and/or release lever.
[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
Information About the Clutch Main Pressure Spring -
If a light-weight tractor with a governed engine (up to 4,000 RPM) is going to be used for general yard work, it's okay to use the stock OEM Cub Cadet pressure spring with the OEM composite/fiber clutch disc. A good used stock OEM pressure spring and a new OEM spring should measure no less than 6-1/2" in uncompressed length. The maximum length is 7". But the compressed length (on the driveshaft with the clutch pedal fully depressed) is 5". If a spring has been used on a driveshaft with an overheated or burned-out clutch release/throw-out bearing, it's best to replace both. And if the pressure plates have been resurfaced until perfectly flat, but the clutch still slips in the heavier chores, perhaps a high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring may need to be installed. (See below Ê.)
If the tractor stops pulling about halfway down the track, and if the engine is still running, but the tires aren't spinning, then the clutch is slipping. For the pressure plates to grip the clutch disc(s) firmly, the pressure spring must be a very stout one. The Cub Cadet clutch pressure spring has about 250 psi of pressure and will probably not prevent the clutch from slipping in a competition pulling tractor. Therefore, a high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring works excellent with the OEM clutch disc, aluminum disc or double OEM clutches. The OEM clutch release lever may need to be extended 3" with either of these springs for easier clutch pedal depression.
How to Reinforce the Clutch Release Lever Brace on a Wide and Spread Frame Cub Cadet When Using the Yellow Spring -
Install a piece of 1/8" x 1" x (you'll need to measure the length if the transaxle have been moved rearward) flat steel from the center of the clutch release lever brace back to one of the upper bolts on the front of the transaxle. Use grade 8 bolts so it can be removed later in case of repairs. This is much easier to do on a platform work table. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]
Advertisement:
| If you would
like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website,
and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance and support,
please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank
Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.
When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly
with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to
the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we
can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
|
 OEM
Cub Cadet Clutch Compression Springs. Suitable for general lawn and
garden work only; not recommended for competition pulling. 6-3/4" to 7"
uncompressed length.
High Pressure Clutch Compression Springs; 800± lb. "Red" Spring, and 1,150± lb. "Yellow" Spring. Fits all models of clutch-drive Cub Cadet garden tractors. These springs are a direct replacement for OEM Cub Cadet clutch pressure spring. Depending on type of clutch disc used, the Red spring is suitable for Hot-Stock and NQS Stock-Altered tractors, and the Yellow spring is suitable for 16hp Missouri Super-Stock, Pro-Stock and Modified tractors. Ideal for use with my aluminum clutch disc or double composite/fiber clutch disc setup. When installed, either spring should be compressed to 4-1/2" length. With either of these stiff springs, the OEM clutch release lever should be extended 3" for easier depression of the clutch/brake pedal. When installing either of these springs, use the original 3rd coiled/spiral pin hole location on the driveshaft, which should measure 9-1/4" - 9-3/8" from the very front of the driveshaft, or install one or two split clamping/locking collar(s) at 9-1/4" - 9-3/8" from the very front of the driveshaft with a center support pillow block bearing and brace to prevent driveshaft wobble and reduce chance of driveshaft breakage at wide open throttle operation. Dimensions of each spring: 5/8" I.D. x 1-1/4" O.D. x 6" length.
|
There are 4 steps in Installing a Double-Disc Clutch Setup
Step #1 - "Notch" the Release Lever and Relocate it's Bracket:
There are two options of doing this. Either way you choose to do it, you
will need to make room for the extra clutch disc and center drive plate.
FOR SALE - Professionally Built Self-Propelled Pulling
Sled for ATVs/UTVs, Garden Tractors & 1,500 lb. Small Wheel Mini Rods
w/26-12.00x12 tires. Go here for information, YouTube videos and more pictures
of this sled: 
Driveshafts for Clutch Drive
IH and MTD-built Cub Cadet Models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 106,
108, 122, 124, 126, 128, 580, 582, 800, 1000, 1050, 1200, 1604, 1606 and
1806, including models 1250, 1450 and 1650 with a hydrostatic disconnect
attachment. NOTE: These driveshafts are made to
order. When ordering, please specify model of Cub Cadet and possibly exact
length and exactly where the coiled/spiral pin holes needs to be drilled.
Please indicate if you want the 3rd hole drilled for the main pressure spring
or if you are going to use a 
Driveshafts for Hydrostatic
Drive IH Cub Cadet Models 105, 107, 123, 125, 127, 147, 109, 129, 149, 169,
682, 782, 784, 1541, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1810, 1811, 1812 and 1860. NOTE:
These driveshafts, with the OEM factory designed machined-down 3/8" diameter
support end, are originally used with Cub Cadet coupler arm with the 25/64"
center hole (
Driveshafts for Hydrostatic
Drive Cub Cadet Models 1250, 1450 and 1650.
Driveshafts for Hydrostatic
Drive MTD-built Cub Cadet Models 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 882, 982, 1210,
1211, 1282, 1512, 1541, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1810, 1811, 1812 and 1860.
Steel Angled Driveshaft Support
Brace for use with Pillow Block Bearing above
È. Made of 1/8" thickness x 2-1/2" width
angled steel with holes for pillow block drilled. Super tough, will not break,
even under severe vibration. For use in all models of IH- and MTD-built Cub
Cadet competition garden pulling tractors. NOTE: Before welding this brace
between the Cub Cadet frame rails, first install pillow block bearing w/housing
on assembled driveshaft, connect driveshaft to transaxle and engine, tighten
engine mounting bolts to tractor frame, then fasten this angle brace to pillow
block bearing. This will guarantee the pillow block bearing and brace is
in perfect alignment and centered with the driveshaft. Otherwise, the driveshaft
will be noisy. Then permanently weld angle brace to tractor frame rails.
See correct installation below.
Ê $20.00 each, plus
shipping & handling. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian
Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I
do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.)
Solid motor mounts are an
alternative to replacing deteriorated OEM "ISO" rubber engine mounts, which
is usually associated with a damaged "flexible" 3-pin clutch drive plate
and damaged clutch components. These fit IH Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" garden
tractor models 482, 800, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282,
1340, 1450 and 1650. If the engine in your tractor is mounted on angled cradles
with rubber mounts between the cradles and tractor frame, then these are
what your tractor need.
Direct replacement for OEM
ISO-rubber mounts with no modifications to the tractor whatsoever. The solid
motor mounts install between the engine mounting cradles and tractor frame.
A thick flat washer fastens on top of the cradles. Torque the bolts at 35
ft. lb. Can be easily removed if rubber mounts are desired instead.
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair
Service: Resurface YOUR Cub Cadet pressure plates until perfectly flat with
a smooth, slick surface, and then true-up outer edge to prevent
IMPORTANT
- It is highly recommended that both pressure plates be trued-up (to reduce
vibration) and resurfaced (machined) in a metal lathe to remove warpage until
perfectly flat or severe clutch slippage may result!
5/8" I.D. Zinc-Plated Steel
Split Lock Washer and Steel Spacer Kit. Replaces teasing spring on all narrow
frame clutch drive Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122,
124 and 126. $5.00 per set, plus shipping & handling.
[
Clutch Adjustment/Release Rod
for Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124 and 126.
Length: 8-7/8" from inside of bend to end of threads.
Clutch Adjustment/Release Rod
for Cub Cadet models 86, 108, 128, 800, 1000 and 1200. (Models 800, 1000
and 1200 with caliper [axle] brakes.) Length: 11-1/4" from inside of bend
to end of threads. NOTES: Install cotter pin and flat washer in middle
of rod to serve as a stop for the compression spring. Clutch adjustment/release
rod for Cub Cadet models 800, 1000 and 1200 with the internal
brake
Clutch Adjustment/Release Rod
for Cub Cadet models 580, 582, 1050, 1535, 1604, 1606 and 1806. Length: 11-11/16"
from inside of bend to end of threads. NOTE: Install cotter pin in middle
of rod to serve as a stop for the compression spring.
Steel Flat Washer for OEM, 800
lb. and 1,150 lb. clutch pressure springs above. Prevents end of spring from
uncoiling around 3rd coiled/spiral pin. Not required when either spring is
used with 
Only on the narrow frame Cub Cadets, cut out
the lower part of the clutch 
The first Cub Cadet model
made was the International Cub Cadet tractor, better known as the
Fasten the aluminum to the pulley
with six (for strength) 10-32 UNF x 1/2" length flat head brass screws equally
spaced apart on each side. Offset the threaded holes in the pulley so the
threads of the screws on one side will not interfere with the screws on the
other side. Countersink the heads of the screws into the aluminum with the
heads slightly below the surface of the aluminum. Make sure the aluminum
is perfectly flat before installing it on the pulley, too. And of course,
when using aluminum as clutch material, a stiffer-than-stock pressure spring,
such as the 
Rebuild Kit for IH Cub Cadet
Mechanical PTO Clutch Assembly. Fits IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractor models
70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108 (serial number 481999
& below), 109 (serial number 481999 & below), 122, 123, 124, 125,
126, 127, 128 (serial number 481999 & below), 129 (serial number 481999
& below) and 147. OEM Cub Cadet part # 759-3490. $94.15 each,
plus shipping & handling.
Rebuild Kit for IH Cub Cadet
Mechanical PTO Clutch Assembly. Fits IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractor models
86, 108, 109, 128 (serial number 482000 & up), 129 (serial number 482000
& up), 149 (serial number 481999 & below) and 169. Install both pressure
springs to prevent clutch slippage. OEM Cub Cadet part # 759-3489.
$97.40 each, plus shipping & handling.
PTO Clutch Release
Compression Springs for IH Cub Cadet Mechanical PTO Clutch Assembly. Fits
IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractor models: 71, 72, 73, 86, 102, 104, 105,
106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149 and
169. These fit over the three 1/4" tapered-head bolts, and between the pressure
plate, fiber clutch disc and clutch/pulley hub to separate the clutch disc
from the pressure plate and clutch/pulley hub when the PTO lever is disengaged.
Replace overheated and collapsed springs so the mowing blades will fully
disengage for safety.
PTO Clutch Throw-Out
Lever for IH Cub Cadet Mechanical PTO Clutch Assembly. Fits IH-built Cub
Cadet garden tractor models: 71, 72, 73, 86, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108,
109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149 and 169. Replace worn
or bent lever so clutch will engage and disengage properly. Three required
per clutch assembly. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-473478-R2.
Clutch/Pulley Hub for IH
Cub Cadet Mechanical PTO Clutch Assembly. Fits garden tractor models 70,
71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125,
126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149 and 169.
Pressure Plate for IH Cub
Cadet Mechanical PTO Clutch Assembly. Replace rusted pressure plate for proper
clutch engage and less wear to the fiber clutch disc. Fits garden tractor
models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123,
124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149 and 169. Made of extremely hardened
heat-treated steel. Discontinued from Cub Cadet. OEM Cub Cadet part #
IH-473471-R1.
New Insert Bearing with
Eccentric Locking Collar for IH Cub Cadet Mechanical PTO Clutch Assembly.
Fits garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107,
108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149 and 169. Each
kit includes bearing, eccentric locking collar w/set screw and
Starter Pulley/Basket for
IH Cub Cadet Mechanical PTO Clutch Assembly. Fits garden tractor models 70,
71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125,
126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149 and 169.
For performance testing of 10-16hp
single cylinder Kohler stock or competition pulling engines at speeds up
to 12,000 RPM. 100% accurate, customers can rent dyno time, fine tune and
make adjustments or changes to their engines to gain maximum horsepower and
torque, and print-out the results so their tractor(s) will be truly competitive
on the track. With an engine dyno, the puller can adjust their engine to
get maximum horsepower and torque, and gear their tractor appropriately to
have an advantage over the competition. NOTE: A fresh-built engine may
not produce full power until it's broke-in. This is when the valves wear-in
with the seats to completely seal in the compression. The rings will likely
hold the compression, but the valves may leak slightly until they wear into
the seats. This is normal for all engines and may take several hours or pulls
to happen, then the valves will be able to hold full compression. Lots of
pullers tell A-1 Miller's after I've built their engines that it seems to
pull stronger every time they pull it.
Coming Soon - Detailed Illustrated
Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back and Self-Propelled Garden
Tractor Pulling Sled. FYI - The
professionally-built self-propelled pulling sled is the only one I've ever
built (click the picture to the right to see a larger image of this sled),
and I got it right the first time, with very few changes or modifications
that had to be made to it. I guess I'm just one of those kind of guys that
knows what he's doing. Pullers really like pulling our sled, too. They say
it's the best sled they've ever pulled. (Not bragging, just stating a fact.)
By the way - Track Master sled is engineered so well (by Brian Miller), that
other sled builders/owners have copied my well thought-out and proven design.
And I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence. Anyway, I have lots
of work to do in my shop and I work on the sled plans in my spare time. As
soon as my plans with an inventory list of parts to use are perfected, I'll
post the update in my websites with the prices of the plans. Remember -
Perfection takes time. If it's worth having, it's worth waiting for. Also,
I plan to acquire a bigger shop and may build high quality garden tractor
pulling sleds in the future to offer for sale. Please call 573-256-0313 (shop)
or 573-881-7229 (cell; text or voice message), or email
-
