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How to Rebuild and Improve the Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Drive Clutch Assembly |
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Inspiring Small Engine, Lawn & Garden, and Garden Pulling Tractor
Enthusiasts Since 1996. Where Science and Common Sense Come Together for
Safety and Improved Engine/Tractor Performance
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On the direct-drive Cub Cadet garden tractor, power from the engine is through the clutch and driveshaft assembly to the transaxle and to the rear tires. If the clutch is severely worn or if stock (OEM) parts may slip and little power or torque will be transferred, especially when using the tractor for competition pulling (especially with a big engine in a fast gear), gardening or to haul heavy loads. An engine in a competition pulling tractor that's built to the max or runs at high RPM or at wide open throttle produces a lot more torque than what the engineers at Cub Cadet originally anticipated for the driveline to handle. Therefore, the clutch assembly is the weak point (and the one-piece carrier and coarse spline axles), and will need to be reinforced and built up for strength for durability and to prevent slippage. Remember: towards the end of the track, if the tires don't spin or the engine bogs down, then the clutch will slip or something elsewhere in the driveline will possibly twist or break.
Types of Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Clutch Assemblies -
An ordinary clutch assembly for general lawn and garden use consist of a OEM quality steel driveshaft, composite clutch disc and an OEM pressure spring. But a clutch assembly for heavy lawn and garden use consist of a heavy duty 3- or 6-pin drive plate, either high strength steel or stainless steel driveshaft, either a single aftermarket composite clutch disc or a single aluminum clutch disc, and definitely a much stiffer pressure spring for placing a heavier load against the clutch disc. Also, the OEM Cub Cadet garden tractor pressure plates will definitely need to be trued-up in a small metal lathe so they'll be perfectly round and resurfaced perfectly flat for better clutch adhesion. Because new OEM pressure plates are made of stamped steel and are not machined whatsoever. This means they are not perfectly flat and they wobble from the factory when new. If used OEM pressure plates have not been resurfaced before, then chances are, they'll still be thick enough after being resurfaced. Always remove the minimal amount of metal to retain maximum thickness so they will not warp when hot. (IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable using a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist with a lathe.) The same happens to automotive flywheels and pressure plates as the clutch disc wears. They need to be resurfaced too, when installing a new clutch disc. And the heavier or stronger the clutch assembly is, the more it will cost. By the way - if the rotating clutch parts are precision balanced, installed and adjusted correctly, the OEM Cub Cadet or aftermarket garden tractor composite clutch disc setup should last a long time, a lot longer than the popular aftermarket 3 puck metallic clutch disc.
Cub Cadet made four different 3-pin clutch drive plates. The bolt-circle pattern for the three clutch disc drive pins/partially threaded studs and four mounting holes are the same for all drive plates listed below.
The first clutch drive plate
is designed for the IH-built narrow- and wide-frame Cub Cadet garden tractor
models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124, 126, 86, 108 and 128
with a solid-mounted engine. It's made of flat, solid/non-flexible, 1/8"
thickness steel, with a bronze bushing (pilot bearing) pressed in the center
to support the driveshaft, and have coiled/spiral
pins to drive the clutch disc. This type of drive plate can also be used
on the Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" rubber ISO-mounted engine garden tractors (listed
below Ê) as long as
solid motor mounts are installed. It's Cub
Cadet part # IH-384652-R12.
Depending on the class your tractor is going to pull in and engine size/modifications, there are many variations in which clutch/driveshaft design and carrier/axles to use. Listed are the weakest to the strongest:
Using Quality Driveshaft Material Is Important!
Most driveshafts are likely to
break at the second coiled/spiral pin hole, just in front of the
clutch release/throw-out bearing. Because
that's where the most vibration usually occurs. They also break just behind
the pressure spring, in front of the
pillow block bearing, due to temporary
frame twisting (narrow frames) when pulling. If this happens, it's best to
install a split clamping/locking collar.
What mainly makes the driveshaft break at 4,000+ RPM is either...
If quality driveshaft material is used, and if the rotating parts are precision balanced and if a carrier bearing is also installed (above 4,000 RPM. The factory setting of maximum RPM for virtually all small gas engines, including all of Kohler engines is 3,600), the driveshaft could possibly last the life of the tractor. Even when used in high-performance conditions.
Remember, in the direct-drive Cub Cadet garden tractor, the entire clutch/driveshaft assembly rotates the same speed as the engine. For reliability in a highly modified tractor that turns well above 4,000 RPM, the driveshaft must be made of quality, solid hardened steel that can resist torsional twist. Such as high strength 1144 stress proof steel, heat-treated 4140 chrome-moly steel or ultra tough 304 alloy stainless steel.
Advertisement: (Prices are subject to change without notice.)
Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website. Professionally Rebuilt Fully Assembled and Ready to Install Drive Clutch Assemblies for IH- and MTD-Built Cub Cadet Garden Tractors listed below. For general lawn and garden use, heavy towing, pushing snow or competition pulling. All A-1 Miller's clutch assemblies are build or rebuilt to give good service and last a long time. A-1 Miller's also offers rebuilding of the plain stock IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor clutch assembly, OEM Cub Cadet garden tractor clutch assemblies, and heavy duty and/or competition garden pulling tractor clutch assemblies! We can rebuild your clutch assembly however you want it, if you don't mind sending it to us. Include a note with your contact information, tell us how you're going to use your tractor and we'll build or rebuild your clutch to suit your needs. We also offer individual clutch parts for the do-it-yourself rebuilders. Drive clutch assemblies listed below for narrow and wide, spread frame Cub Cadet garden tractors for general yard and garden use. Parts include: New high strength 1144 stress proof steel driveshaft, new coiled/spiral pins, new aftermarket composite clutch disc, new aftermarket throw-out bearing, reconditioned release lever, new main pressure spring, new teasing [compression] spring and protective thrust washer, and both OEM pressure plates trued-up in a small metal lathe so they'll be perfectly round and resurfaced perfectly flat for better clutch adhesion. 3-pin drive plate shown in pictures shown above not included with clutch assemblies. All clutch purchases do not include the rear coupler or coupler arms and flex coupler. Purchase these separately, if needed. When ordering, please state model number of Cub Cadet garden tractor. Core trade-in must be in rebuildable condition with very few missing or damaged parts. *The price to build or rebuild your clutch assembly depends on which parts can be reused and which new parts are installed, and the amount of machining is required. IMPORTANT: Before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply automotive grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if either is dry, chances are, the driveshaft can bind up in the bushing, the clutch may not release, and cause wear to both the bushing and driveshaft.
Drive Clutch Assemblies for Cub Cadet "Original" Garden Tractor. Priced full length (without creeper drive) or short length (with creeper drive unit.) NOTE: Complete driveshaft assembly do not include the driveshaft bearing support assembly, clutch operating support, clutch shaft bearing retainer and collar, adjustment rod yoke end, clutch operating rod and transaxle input shaft coupler arm. And due to supply and demand, and different lengths and applications, I do not keep complete rebuilt clutch assemblies in stock. I build them as customers order them.
Drive Clutch Assemblies for Narrow Frame Cub Cadet Garden Tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124 and 126. Priced full length (without creeper drive) or short length (with creeper drive unit.) And due to supply and demand, and different lengths and applications, I do not keep complete rebuilt clutch assemblies in stock. I build them as customers order them.
Drive Clutch Assemblies for Cub Cadet Wide Frame Garden Tractor models 80, 108 and 128. Priced full length (without creeper drive) or short length (with creeper drive unit.) And due to supply and demand, and different lengths and applications, I do not keep complete rebuilt clutch assemblies in stock. I build them as customers order them.
Drive Clutch Assemblies for Cub Cadet Wide Frame Garden Tractor models 800, 1000 and 1200. Priced full length (without creeper drive) or short length (with creeper drive unit.) And due to supply and demand, and different lengths and applications, I do not keep complete rebuilt clutch assemblies in stock. I build them as customers order them.
Drive Clutch Assemblies for Cub Cadet Spread Frame Garden Tractor models 580, 582, 1250, 1450, 1650 (models with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment), 1604, 1606 and 1806. Priced full length (without creeper drive) or short length (with creeper drive unit.) And due to supply and demand, and different lengths and applications, I do not keep complete rebuilt clutch assemblies in stock. I build them as customers order them.
Drive Clutch Assemblies to Replace or Convert [to Clutch Drive] Cub Cadet Spread Frame Garden Tractor models 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 882, 982, 984, 986, 1050, 1202, 1204, 1210, 1282, 1340, 1440, 1512, 1535, 1541, 1572, 1604, 1606, 1641, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1772, 1782, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1860, 1861, 1862, 1863, 1864, 1872, 1882, 1912, 1914, 2072, 2082, 2086, 2182 and 2284. Priced full length (without creeper drive) or short length (with creeper drive unit.) 3-pin drive plate, hanger bracket and adjustment rod/spring to convert a hydrostatic drive into the clutch drive is extra charge. And due to supply and demand, and different lengths and applications, I do not keep complete rebuilt clutch assemblies in stock. I build them as customers order them.
Drive Clutch Assembly for Cub Cadet Spread Frame Garden Tractor model 1050. Priced full length (without creeper drive) or short length (with creeper drive unit.) And due to supply and demand, and different lengths and applications, I do not keep complete rebuilt clutch assemblies in stock. I build them as customers order them.
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 A-1 Miller's Professional
Rebuild/Repair Service for MTD Farm King model 960 Drive Clutch Assembly.
Rebuild/repair price varies depending on which parts needs to be replaced
and/or repaired. Rebuild/repair service also includes reconditioning the
Peerless right angle gearbox for long service. $400.00 - $900.00 for
parts and labor. Extra charge for return shipping & handling.
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 OEM
Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Solid 3-pin Clutch Drive Plate.
Designed for IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86,
100, 102, 104, 108, 122, 124, 126 and 128 with the solid-mounted engine.
These models have the engine fastened directly to the frame with no rubber
motor mounts. If you want to use this type of drive plate in a "Quiet Line"
model 800, 1000 or 1200 with the ISO-mounted engine, then a set of A-1 Miller's
solid motor mounts must also be installed,
making the clutch/driveshaft assembly rigid throughout so less wear will
occur to the clutch assembly. IMPORTANT: It's highly recommended that
your OEM pressure plates be trued-up in a small metal lathe so they'll be
perfectly round (to reduce pilot bushing wear, and resurfaced perfectly flat
for better clutch adhesion) to prevent premature wearing of the new pilot
bushing in the drive plate and holes in the clutch disc. And before reinstalling
the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply automotive grease inside
the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if either
is dry, chances are, the driveshaft can bind up in the bushing, the clutch
may not release, and cause wear to both the bushing and driveshaft.
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 Cub Cadet Garden Tractor
3-pin Flexible Clutch Drive Plate. Designed for IH-built Cub Cadet
garden tractor "Quiet Line" models 800, 1000 and 1200, including models 1250,
1450 and 1650 with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment. All these models
have a rubber ISO-mounted engine to reduce vibration
throughout the tractor for operator comfort. IMPORTANT - To maintain balance
of this particular drive plate, one spiral pin is longer than the other two
- do not grind it down! NOTE: The OEM Cub Cadet clutch pressure plates
are made of stamped steel, which makes them somewhat oblong or "egg-shaped"
and not machined perfectly round. So if this particular drive plate keeps
breaking just after a few years of use, then this means that the OEM pressure
plates are definitely out-of-balance, and needs to be trued-up (to reduce
pilot bushing wear, and resurfaced perfectly flat for better clutch adhesion)
in a metal lathe. It'll also be best to install a set of A-1 Miller's
solid motor mounts and a solid clutch drive
plate (listed above) to make the clutch/driveshaft assembly rigid throughout
so less wear will occur to the clutch assembly to lessen chances of repeated
breakage. And before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor,
apply automotive grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the
driveshaft. Because if either is dry, chances are, the driveshaft can bind
up in the bushing, the clutch may not release, and cause wear to both the
bushing and driveshaft. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet flexible drive
plate part # IH-106545-C93.
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 A-1 Miller's Professional
Repair Service - Weld the Spiral Pin Collars on YOUR OEM IH Cub Cadet
Garden Tractor Drive Plate. This adds approximately 85% more strength to
prevent from bending or flexing of drive plate while under severe strain
from heavy duty use or competition pulling. Labor includes true-up drive
plate in metal lathe to remove wobble or run-out to reduce vibration. We
always perform this repair to a customer's drive plate, as part of the complete
clutch rebuild. IMPORTANT: It's highly recommended that your OEM pressure
plates be trued-up in a small metal lathe so they'll be perfectly round (to
reduce pilot bushing wear, and resurfaced perfectly flat for better clutch
adhesion) to prevent premature wearing of the new pilot bushing in the drive
plate and holes in the clutch disc. And before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch
assembly in the tractor, apply automotive grease to inside the pilot bushing
and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if either is dry, chances
are, the driveshaft can bind up in the bushing, the clutch may not release,
and cause wear to both the bushing and driveshaft. An original, ingenious
and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this
type of service.
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 A-1 Miller's Professional
Repair Service - Repair your OEM IH Cub Cadet garden tractor 3-pin clutch
drive plate when the three OEM drive pin collar(s) are broken off with three
or six hardened steel drive studs. No need to purchase another drive plate.
Work includes true-up drive plate in metal lathe to remove wobble or run-out
to reduce vibration and for precision alignment installation of drive studs.
I can also do this to repair a customer's drive plate, as part of the clutch
rebuild. IMPORTANT: It's highly recommended that your OEM pressure plates
be trued-up in a small metal lathe so they'll be perfectly round (to reduce
pilot bushing wear, and resurfaced perfectly flat for better clutch adhesion)
to prevent premature wearing of the new pilot bushing in the drive plate
and holes in the clutch disc. And before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch
assembly in the tractor, apply automotive grease to inside the pilot bushing
and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if either is dry, chances
are, the driveshaft can bind up in the bushing, the clutch may not release,
and cause wear to both the bushing and driveshaft. An innovative concept
by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this type of service.
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 A-1 Miller's Professional
Repair Service - Repair Worn Over-Size Pilot Bushing Hole in YOUR IH
Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Drive Plate, or Repair Bushing in YOUR Cub Cadet
"Original" Garden Tractor Pulley/Clutch Disc for Installation of OEM-size
Pilot Bushing. No need to purchase another drive plate. Work includes true-up
drive plate in metal lathe to remove wobble or run-out to reduce vibration.
I can also do this to repair a customer's drive plate, as part of the clutch
rebuild. IMPORTANT: It's highly recommended that your OEM pressure plates
be trued-up in a small metal lathe so they'll be perfectly round (to reduce
pilot bushing wear, and resurfaced perfectly flat for better clutch adhesion)
to prevent premature wearing of the new pilot bushing in the drive plate
and holes in the clutch disc. And before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch
assembly in the tractor, apply automotive grease inside the pilot bushing
and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if either is dry, chances
are, the driveshaft can bind up in the bushing, the clutch may not release,
and cause wear to both the bushing and driveshaft. An innovative concept
by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this type of service.
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A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Convert your OEM IH
or MTD Cub Cadet garden tractor clutch drive plate from 3-pin (IH) or 3-stud
(MTD) to 3-pin/3-stud or 6-stud. Work includes true-up plate in metal lathe
to remove wobble or run-out to reduce vibration, precision drill 3 new holes
in exact spacing of OEM pins or studs, and then install 3 additional hardened
steel studs, lock washers and nuts. I can also do this to repair a customer's
drive plate, as part of the clutch rebuild. NOTE: Clutch disc must be
precision-drilled with 3 additional holes to accept the 3 additional drive
studs. IMPORTANT: It's highly recommended that your OEM pressure plates be
trued-up in a small metal lathe so they'll be perfectly round (to reduce
pilot bushing wear, and resurfaced perfectly flat for better clutch adhesion)
to prevent premature wearing of the new pilot bushing in the drive plate
and holes in the clutch disc. And before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch
assembly in the tractor, apply automotive grease to inside the pilot bushing
and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if either is dry, chances
are, the driveshaft can bind up in the bushing, the clutch may not release,
and cause wear to both the bushing and driveshaft. A proven, ingenious and
innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products
of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and
intelligence.)  $60.00
each drive plate, includes parts and labor, plus return shipping & handling.
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  Clutch Drive Studs w/nuts and split lock washers for Cub
Cadet garden tractors. IMPORTANT: It's highly recommended that your
OEM pressure plates be trued-up in a small metal lathe so they'll be perfectly
round (to reduce pilot bushing wear, and resurfaced perfectly flat for better
clutch adhesion) to prevent premature wearing of the new pilot bushing and
drive pins in the drive plate, and holes in the clutch disc.
NOTE: Adding three additional clutch drive studs is something that must be performed with precision machining. To install three additional clutch drive studs in the OEM clutch drive plate and have them perfectly aligned with the OEM drive pins and the three extra holes in the clutch disc, and to prevent the pins from being out of balance (out of circle) and to prevent wobble, the holes in the plate (and clutch disc) will need to be drilled using a Super Spacer or Rotary Table that's fastened to the table of a milling machine. Each hole must be drilled precisely at 2.5625" out from dead center and spaced exactly at 90º from the original drive pins. This will allow the 3 extra drive studs (and holes in clutch disc) to be positioned in exact alignment with the OEM pins. Just like the wheel studs on an automobile. If you want, I can professionally install three extra drive studs in your clutch drive plate and drill three extra matching holes in your clutch disc for $45.00 labor, which includes the 3 drive studs, plus return shipping & handling. I will need your clutch drive plate and clutch disc, too. |
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 Driveshafts
for IH Cub Cadet "Original" Garden Tractor. NOTE: These
driveshafts, with the OEM factory designed machined-down 3/8" diameter support
end, are originally used with Cub Cadet coupler arm with the 25/64" center
hole (part # 759-3009). But with a 5/8" diameter
support end (A-1 Miller's improved design), the driveshaft can be used instead
with Cub Cadet coupler arm with the 5/8" center hole (part
# 748-3001). Due to the increase in material, less wear will occur to
the end of the driveshaft and hole in the coupler arm. Available
only in stress proof steel. Please indicate with 3/8" or 5/8" stub end.
Driveshafts comes with flat steel coupler arm welded to shaft and coiled/spiral
pin holes drilled. Coiled/Spiral
pins listed below.
Driveshafts for MTD-built Cub Cadet Hydrostatic Drive Garden Tractor models 1872 and 2072. (Available only in stress proof steel.) Coiled/Spiral pins listed below.
Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page]
3/16" Diameter Heavy Duty Coiled/Spiral Pins for IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor driveshaft. 3,100 P.S.I. breaking strength.
1/4" Diameter Heavy Duty Coiled/Spiral Pins for all other models of Cub Cadet garden tractor driveshafts. 6,500 P.S.I. breaking strength.
3/8" Diameter x 1-1/2" Length Heavy Duty Coiled/Spiral Pins for OEM Cub Cadet garden tractor 3-pin clutch drive plate and drag link steering arm on all narrow frame Cub Cadet garden tractors, and driveshaft for Cub Cadet garden tractor models 1872 and 2072. 12,600 P.S.I. breaking strength. NOTE: The holes in the drag link arm and spindle shaft may need to be drilled (enlarged) exactly to 3/8" (.375") for this pin to fit snug. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
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Advertisement: (Prices are subject to change without notice.)
| Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website. |
 5/8"
I.D. One-Piece Split Clamping/Locking Collar. With the drilled 3rd
coiled/spiral pin hole not present in the driveshaft, this part stiffens
the driveshaft in the middle 100%, which helps to prevent driveshaft breakage
at 4,000 RPM (without a center pillow block bearing and support brace installed),
and when used with a center pillow block bearing and support brace, this
locking collar prevents the driveshaft from "wobbling around", which could
break at open RPM. Comes with two Allen head screws that secures clamp together
and provide a very tight uniform 360° grip around the driveshaft. NOTE:
With the hardened and "slick" surface of a stainless steel driveshaft, it's
best to use two one-piece split clamping/locking collars because just one
locking collar could slip rearward on the driveshaft when the clutch pedal
is depressed. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website] |
 Driveshaft
Center Support Pillow Blocks with self-aligning 5/8" ball bearing and
high quality cast iron housing. For use in all models of IH- and MTD-built
Cub Cadet competition garden pulling tractors. 3-3/4" center to center mounting
holes. Use with steel support brace listed below
Ê. NOTE: Either of these are
required only for Cub Cadet competition pulling tractors with an engine that
run at high RPM or wide open throttle to stabilize driveshaft from wobbling
and prevent breakage. Install just behind main pressure spring on driveshaft.
See pictures of correct installation below.
Ê
[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
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Do this only if the front
axle have been moved forward -
On the narrow frame Cub Cadet garden tractors, if the front
axle have been moved forward, reinforce the frame rails where the engine
mounting holes are to reduce normal high-RPM engine vibration travel that
could lead to both frame and driveshaft breakage. To do so, stiffen the frame
rails where the engine mounting bolt holes are by welding two 1/4" thick
steel plates under the frame. Longer engine mounting bolts must be used,
too. The reason for this is because when the front axle center support is
moved, the remaining frame material isn't thick enough to hold up to the
engine vibration.
For the spread frame models with the ISO (rubber) motor mounts, replace the rubber mounts with a set of our solid steel motor mounts or remove the brackets and fabricate a minimum 1/4" thick plate steel, set it at the right height and weld it to the frame. But the engine mounting holes and oil drain plug hole must be properly located (centered) and drilled in the plate first. This is much easier to do on a platform work table than on the floor or ground. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]
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How to Remove the Driveshaft/Clutch Assembly from a Cub Cadet Garden Tractor: (This is much easier performed on a platform work table than on the floor or ground.) (Updated 9/13/22)
The coiled/spiral pin in
the input shaft on the transaxle of a narrow frame Cub Cadet garden tractor
can be very difficult to remove and somewhat difficult to access from underneath.
Therefore, it's recommended that a 1" hole should be drilled through the
top of a short tunnel cover (center section of the tractor frame), or through
the side of a tall tunnel cover in direct alignment with the coiled/spiral
pin, then use a long 1/4" roll pin punch and medium size hammer to drive
the pin from the coupler. Don't attempt to drill-out the coiled/spiral pin.
They're just as hard as a high quality drill bit. After the pin is removed
and the clutch assembly is rebuilt, upon reinstallation in the tractor, use
a socket in the drilled hole to fasten a hardened steel 1/4" diameter
[grade 8 or Allen head] bolt in the coupler.
For cosmetic purpose, hide the
drilled hole with a 1" plastic or metal hole plug. Just push the plug in
the hole for a nice distinctive look. And sometimes when driving out
the coiled/spiral pin, the pounding will bend the input shaft in the transaxle.
If this happens, the input shaft will need to be straightened (and hope it
doesn't break later because the metal have been weakened) or a good used
input shaft will need to be installed. This is why it's highly recommended
that a hardened steel (grade 8) 1/4" bolt/lock nut be used in the coupler
in place of the coiled/spiral pin because if the driveshaft ever needs to
be removed again, removing a bolt/lock nut would be a lot easier than driving
out a stubborn coiled/spiral pin. Plus, it'll be easier on your nerves and
on the input shaft.
On the IH-built models 800, 1000
and 1200, there's a 5/8" steel ball at the end of the driveshaft located
inside the rear flex arm coupler (with the bronze swivel bushing). Do not
lose this ball! It will need to be reused when reinstalling the clutch
assembly/driveshaft in the tractor. This ball is located at the end of
the driveshaft and inside the rear flex arm coupler (with the bronze swivel
bushing) and sometimes gets lost when removing the clutch assembly/driveshaft
from the tractor. It allows the driveshaft to "move side to side" with the
engine (that's mounted on rubber mounts). If it's left out, the clutch
assembly/driveshaft will move further back 5/8" when the clutch pedal is
depressed, and the clutch disc will not release and operate correctly. The
MTD-built models have no steel ball. The end of the [5/8" longer] driveshaft
is pointed, which fits in the pilot hole of the input shaft in the
transaxle.
How to Disassemble the Clutch Components from the Driveshaft -
To disassemble the clutch components from the driveshaft, first place the front pressure plate hub on slightly open jaws of a bench vise, and use a quality-made 1/4" coiled/spiral pin punch and a medium size hammer to drive out the coiled/spiral pin. Then the pressure plates, clutch disc clutch release/throw-out bearing and pressure spring should all slide off the driveshaft.
Fasten the Coupler Arms Together To Make One Rigid Driveshaft Coupler -
With
solid motor mounts installed in a Cub Cadet
"Quiet Line" garden tractor that originally came with a rubber ISO-mounted
engine, the driveshaft will not be able to "move" with the engine and there'll
be less chance of clutch parts prematurely wearing or breaking. The flexible
rubber disc(s) at the end of the driveshaft will be useless too, and could
deteriorate over time. So instead of replacing the OEM coupler arms with
a machined rigid tubular coupler, make the coupler arms rigid by removing
the flexible rubber disc(s) and install a couple of 3/8" thickness spacers
for a single disc, and a couple of 3/4" thickness spacers for double composite
clutch discs, and fasten the arms together with a couple of 3/8" diameter
hardened steel bolts. (Large nuts are used as spacers in the photo to the
right.) By the way - one rubber flex disc is 3/8" thick. This setup is just
as strong as using a rigid tubular coupler, and it cost a lot less.
If the outer parts of the
two arms don't come together or meet when the bolts are tightened (be careful
not to tighten the bolts too tight if the arms don't meet, they could break),
a couple of thin flat washers may need to be added as shims next to the spacers.
And before fastening the arms together with the spacers, first slide the
arms on the driveshaft so they'll be in perfect alignment with each other,
and tighten the bolts. See the photo to the right ->. Also, if you want,
leave out the 5/8" diameter [swivel/spacer] steel ball. It'll serve no purpose
when using solid motor mounts and when making
the coupler arms rigid.
FYI - Many pullers convert the hydrostatic drive Cub Cadet garden tractor models 109, 129, 149 and 169 (wide frames with a solid mounted engine) and models 1250, 1450 and 1650 (wide frames with a rubber ISO-mounted engine) into a clutch drive tractor. All that's needed are the clutch assembly with the hanger bracket for the release lever and a complete transaxle out of a gear drive Cub Cadet garden tractor model 86, 108, 128 (wide frames with a solid mounted engine) or models 800, 1000 or 1200 (wide frames with a rubber ISO-mounted engine). A set of A-1 Miller's solid motor mounts will be also be needed if the tractor originally have the ISO rubber motor mounts. The braking mechanism, preferably the internal "wet" brake, out of a wide frame Cub Cadet garden tractor will also be needed.
Do not fasten the two coupler
arms directly together on the IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor because
the driveshaft needs to move up or down to tighten the drive belt with the
engine. Leave the flexible rubber disc in place, even for pulling competition.
Or a 5/8" I.D. universal joint can be installed instead.
A rigid tubular rear driveshaft
coupler with a worn center can be repaired by boring out the center and
installing a press-fit steel sleeve. Then ream the sleeve to .626" for a
slip-fit on the driveshaft. Then the holes
for the coiled/spiral pins can be drilled. The boring and reaming process
should be performed on a milling machine with a self-centering 3-jaw super
spacer or in a metal lathe with a self-centering 3-jaw chuck.
(IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable using
a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist with
a lathe.)
Installing a coiled/spiral pin
in the rear of the driveshaft to connect the coupler to the input shaft on
the transaxle of a Cub Cadet garden tractor can be very difficult. To make
it much easier, simply use a 1/4" grade 8 bolt instead. For strength, the
shank (unthreaded part) of the bolt needs to have full contact with the coupler
and driveshaft. And as long as the driveshaft is in correct alignment with
the centerline of the crankshaft and transaxle input shaft, with the
coiled/spiral pin holes in-line with each other, and not offset 90°,
at around 4,000 RPM, this should not cause the driveshaft to "shake around"
or vibrate whatsoever. At high RPM or at
wide
open throttle, a center support pillow
block bearing and brace should be used midway on the driveshaft.
For pulling applications, rubber motor mounts (and the flexible coupler at the rear of the driveshaft) absorbs valuable horsepower, which must be transferred to the rear tires for full power to the track. The rubber motor mounts will also cause the engine to vibrate excessively at high RPM or at wide open throttle. Plus, with normal use of the tractor, rubber motor mounts could cause the flexible 3-pin drive plate and/or the driveshaft to eventually break. If a tractor that have rubber motor mounts and a flexible coupler is going to be used for competition pulling, definitely install some metal motor mounts.
First of all, when using a milling machine, use a spotting drill bit, or use a center punch or transfer punch to locate exactly where the hole needs to be drilled to prevent the drill bit from "skating" on the surface. This will position and guide the drill bit to bore EXACTLY where the hole needs to be drilled. And due to the natural expansion of a roll, coiled or coiled/spiral pin, ALWAYS drill the hole with a drill bit that's one size smaller than the actual size for the roll, coiled or coiled/spiral pin's size, to allow for sufficient compression of the pin when installed in the hole. For example: for a 1/4" roll, coiled or coiled/spiral pin, initially drill the hole with a 15/64" drill bit (one size smaller than the 1/4" drill bit), then finish enlarging the same hole with a 1/4" drill bit. Doing this will guarantee the hole will be EXACTLY 1/4" in diameter. If the hole is initially drilled with just the 1/4" bit, chances are, this will cause the hole to be wallowed out, making it too big for the 1/4" roll, coiled or coiled/spiral pin. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]
Advertisement: (Prices are subject to change without notice.)
| Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website. | |||||
| Solid Motor Mount Kit for Cub
Cadet "Quiet Line" Garden Tractors. Replace OEM Rubber ISO-Mounts with a
Set of Solid Motor Mounts to Prevent Repeated and Costly Damage to the Clutch
Components! An original, ingenious, innovative concept invention
by Brian Miller, because I was the one who originally thought of, promoted
and advertised the use of this product. Please accept no copycat products
of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and
intelligence.) [Top
of Page]
Details include:
|
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   Cub
Cadet "Quiet Line" Garden Tractor Engine Mounting Rubber Snubbers/Bumpers
and Rubber ISO-Mounts. Fits Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" garden tractor
models 482, 800, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1340, 1450
and 1650. All these models have a rubber ISO-mounted
engine to reduce overall tractor vibration for operator comfort. The rubber
ISO-mounts can be adapted for use on various other makes and models of small
engine equipment to reduce engine vibration throughout the frame.
[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
|
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 OEM-Thickness
Bronze Pilot Bushing. Fits all pre-1981 gear drive IH-built Cub Cadet garden
tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 106, 108, 122, 124, 126
and 128, except "Quiet Line" models. This is also the replacement bushing
for the IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor pulley/clutch disc. Dimensions:
5/8" I.D. x 7/8" O.D. x 3/4" length. IMPORTANT: To prevent the replacement
pilot bushing from premature wear, both OEM pressure plates should be trued-up
in a small metal lathe so they'll be perfectly round (to reduce pilot bushing
wear, and resurfaced perfectly flat for better clutch adhesion), and before
reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply automotive
grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because
if the bushing is dry, chances are, the driveshaft can bind up in the bushing,
the clutch may not release, and cause wear to both the bushing and
driveshaft.
|
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 Thin-Wall Bronze
Pilot Bushing Insert for installing inside a worn OEM bronze pilot bushing
in all pre-1981 gear drive IH Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72,
73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 106, 108, 122, 124, 126 and 128, except "Quiet Line"
models. Can also be used inside the OEM bushing in the IH Cub Cadet "Original"
garden tractor pulley/clutch disc. Dimensions: 5/8" I.D. x 3/4" O.D. x 3/4"
length. NOTE: Worn OEM bushing must be precision center-bored to .750"
in a metal lathe so this bushing will have a press fit. IMPORTANT: To prevent
the replacement pilot bushing from premature wear, both OEM pressure plates
should be resurfaced and trued-up in a small metal lathe so they'll be perfectly
round (to reduce pilot bushing wear, and resurfaced perfectly flat for better
clutch adhesion), and before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch assembly
in the tractor, apply automotive grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on
the front of the driveshaft. Because if the bushing is dry, chances are,
the driveshaft can bind up in the bushing, the clutch may not release, and
cause wear to both the bushing and driveshaft. $3.00 each, plus
shipping & handling. |
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  Tubular Driveshaft Couplers. Available in OEM stock
length, 1" longer than stock length (to lessen driveshaft wobble) or 3" rigid
tubular carbon steel driveshaft one-piece rigid tubular coupler. For a
custom-length coupler, exact locations where the coiled/spiral pin holes
need to be drilled are required. Custom-length rigid tubular driveshaft couplers,
up to 6" length are available. To find the location of the coiled/spiral
pin holes, install the driveshaft in the tractor with the engine fastened
to the frame with a couple of bolts, make sure the clutch disc is midway
on the drive pins, then measure precisely from the rear coiled/spiral pin
hole on the driveshaft to the coiled/spiral pin hole in the input shaft in
the transaxle, then add 3/4" for the overall length of the coupler. And one-piece
couplers to replace rubber flex coupler disc and coupler arms on AQS (Quiet
Line) Cub Cadet garden tractor models 800, 1000, 1050 and 1200 when using
solid motor mounts. The 800, 1000 and 1200
coupler will come with two roll pin holes for single or double rubber flex
coupler(s). NOTE: The 3" aftermarket coupler is
used only for competition pulling tractors with a shortened driveshaft so
the input shaft/pinion drive gear can be changed to vary the ground speed
of the tractor. And when ordering, please specify model of Cub Cadet garden
tractor, overall length and coiled/spiral pin hole locations.
|
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 Replacement
Self-Aligning Spherical Bronze Bushing w/Outer Steel Race/Retainer. Fits
pilot bushing retainers listed below and input shaft coupler arm further
listed below in Cub Cadet ISO-mount garden tractor models 482, 580, 582,
582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 882, 982, 984, 1000, 1050, 1200,
1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1541, 1572, 1604, 1606, 1650, 1710,
1711, 1712, 1772, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1860, 1872, 1912, 1914 and 2072. Install
with hammer and socket. IMPORTANT: To prevent the replacement pilot bushing
from premature wear, both OEM pressure plates should be resurfaced and trued-up
in a small metal lathe so they'll be perfectly round (and resurfaced perfectly
flat for better clutch adhesion), and before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch
assembly in the tractor, apply automotive grease inside the pilot bushing
and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if the bushing is dry, chances
are, the driveshaft can bind up in the bushing, the clutch may not release,
and cause wear to both the bushing and driveshaft. OEM Cub Cadet part
# 941-3004. $39.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
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 Round Retainer
with Pressed-In Self-Aligning Spherical Pilot Bushing. Fits Cub Cadet "Quiet
Line" rubber ISO-mounted engine garden tractor
models 800, 1000, 1200, 1250, 1450 and 1650. IMPORTANT: To prevent the
replacement pilot bushing from premature wear, both OEM pressure plates should
be resurfaced and trued-up in a small metal lathe so they'll be perfectly
round (and resurfaced perfectly flat for better clutch adhesion), and before
reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply automotive
grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because
if the bushing is dry, chances are, the driveshaft can bind up in the bushing,
the clutch may not release, and cause wear to both the bushing and
driveshaft. OEM Cub Cadet IH-126205-C2. $114.00 each, plus shipping
& handling. |
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 Rectangular Flange
with Pressed-In Self-Aligning Spherical Bronze Pilot Bushing. Fits Cub Cadet
"Quiet Line" rubber ISO-mounted engine garden
tractor models 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450,
1541, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1860, 1872 and 2072.
IMPORTANT: To prevent the replacement pilot bushing from premature wear,
both OEM pressure plates should be resurfaced and trued-up in a small metal
lathe so they'll be perfectly round (and resurfaced perfectly flat for better
clutch adhesion), and before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch assembly
in the tractor, apply automotive grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on
the front of the driveshaft. Because if the bushing is dry, chances are,
the driveshaft can bind up in the bushing, the clutch may not release, and
cause wear to both the bushing and driveshaft. OEM Cub Cadet part # 903-0204.
$33.65 each, plus shipping & handling. |
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 Rectangular Flange
with Pressed-In Self-Aligning Spherical Bronze Pilot Bushing. Fits Cub Cadet
"Quiet Line" rubber ISO-mounted engine garden
tractor models 782D, 882, 1512, 1572 and 1772. IMPORTANT: To prevent the
replacement pilot bushing from premature wear, both OEM pressure plates should
be resurfaced and trued-up in a small metal lathe so they'll be perfectly
round (and resurfaced perfectly flat for better clutch adhesion), and before
reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply automotive
grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because
if the bushing is dry, chances are, the driveshaft can bind up in the bushing,
the clutch may not release, and cause wear to both the bushing and
driveshaft. Discontinued Cub Cadet part # 703-0231. $45.00 each
with new bushing, plus shipping & handling. (When available.) |
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|
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 Transaxle
Input Shaft Coupler Arm. Fits IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor and
models 105, 107, 109, 123, 125, 127, 129, 147, 149 and 169. NOTE:
This particular part goes on the input shaft of the transaxle and not on
the driveshaft. Can also be used in a steering shaft setup of a custom-built
mini-rod pulling tractor as a type of U-joint with a maximum 35º rotational
angle with either flex coupler disc listed below. Dimensions: 25/64" bolt
holes spaced 3" apart x 25/64" center pilot hole (for support end of driveshaft)
x 5/8" center hole. [Return To Previous
Section, Paragraph or Website]
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  Driveshaft (or Input Shaft) Coupler Arm.
Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 482, 580, 582, 680, 682, 782, 782D,
784, 782D, 800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282,
1450, 1512, 1541, 1604, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812 and
1860. NOTE: This particular part goes on the driveshaft and not on
the input shaft of the transaxle. Additional Note: This part can be
substituted for the coupler arm listed above when used on the transaxle input
shaft with end of driveshaft at 5/8". Due to the increase in material, less
wear will occur to the end of the driveshaft and hole in the coupler arm.
(A-1 Miller's improved design.) Can also be used in a steering shaft setup
of a custom-built mini-rod pulling tractor as a type of U-joint with a maximum
35º rotational angle with either rubber flex coupler disc listed below.
Dimensions: 25/64" bolt holes spaced 3" apart x 5/8" center through-hole.
[Return To Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
|
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 Transaxle Input Shaft Coupler Arm with Self-Aligning
Spherical Bronze Swivel Bushing and Outer Steel Race/Retainer. Each fits
Cub Cadet garden tractor models 482, 580, 582, 682, 782, 782D, 800, 882,
1000, 1050, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1541, 1604,
1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812 and 1860. Dimensions: bolt
holes spaced 3" apart x 5/8" center through-hole. NOTE: This particular
part goes on the input shaft of the transaxle and not on the driveshaft.
|
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5/8" Steel Ball. Fits IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractor models
800, 1000 and 1200. This ball is located at the end of the driveshaft
and inside the rear flex arm coupler (with the bronze swivel bushing; listed
above) and sometimes gets lost when removing the clutch assembly/driveshaft
from the tractor. It allows the driveshaft to "move side to side" with the
engine (that's mounted on rubber mounts). If it's left out, the clutch
assembly/driveshaft will move further back 5/8" when the clutch pedal is
depressed, and the clutch disc will not release and operate correctly. The
MTD-built models have no steel ball. The end of the [5/8" longer] driveshaft
is pointed, which fits in the pilot hole of the input shaft in the
transaxle.
|
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| Reinforced
Rubber Driveshaft Flex Coupler Disc. Designed specifically for Cub Cadet
"Quiet Line" garden tractor models 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 682, 782,
782D, 800, 882, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1050, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211,
1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1541, 1604, 1606, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810,
1811, 1812, 1860, 1872, 1912, 1914 and 2072. Can also be used on the IH Cub
Cadet "Original" garden tractor. All IH-built Cub Cadet models require one
flex coupler disc at each end of driveshaft, and all MTD-built Cub Cadet
models use two flex coupler discs at each end of driveshaft. Very tough,
reinforced rubber/weaved composite material. Allows for out-of-alignment
rotation of driveshaft in rubber ISO-mounted
engine tractors to prevent damage to the clutch parts or hydrostatic pump.
Has larger center hole than coupler listed above to clear housing in coupler
arm with self-aligning spherical bushing. Can be substituted for flex coupler
listed above. Can also be used in a steering shaft setup of a custom-built
mini-rod pulling tractor as a type of U-joint with a maximum 35º rotational
angle with coupler arm(s) listed above. 13/32" bolt holes spaced 3" apart.
OEM Cub Cadet part # 722-3000. $23.45 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
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| The OEM Cub Cadet Hydrostatic Drive Garden Tractor Hub (shown
to the left in the photo below; Cub Cadet part # IH-394034-R32) in IH Cub
Cadet garden tractor models 105, 107, 109, 123, 125, 127, 129, 147, 149 and
169 is notorious for the slots becoming severely worn due to a slight
misalignment of the engine with the driveshaft. To fix this, replace this
hub with the parts shown to the right -> in the photo below. Because these
parts will last a lot longer, and they'll produce no noise. Modification
to the front of the driveshaft will need to be made.
Click here to contact A-1 Miller's
Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing,
and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance
and support and payment options. If you need a part or parts
that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll
see if we can get it at a reasonable price.
|
The main cause of breakage of the OEM Cub Cadet garden tractor
aluminum hub adapter on competition pulling engines that run at wide open
throttle is using out-of-balance OEM pressure plates and OEM 3-pin clutch
drive plate, and/or not installing the large flat washer under the nut or
bolt (as described below Ê). So as long
as the drive plate and pressure plates are trued-up in a small metal lathe
so they'll be perfectly round (to reduce pilot bushing wear, and resurfaced
perfectly flat for better clutch adhesion) to remove the run-out or wobble
so they'll be precision balanced, this hub have been known to hold up very
well even in a highly modified competition pulling tractor as long as
the original 1/4" thick x no less than 1-1/4" O.D. flat washer is installed
under the flywheel nut or bolt with hardened 1/4" bolts w/split lock washers
to securely fasten the drive plate to the hub. Otherwise, it's pretty
tough.
Separate the Brake and Clutch Operations - (This have been done by many professional pullers in the past.)
Cub Cadet garden tractors that have the brakes integrated with the clutch/brake pedal, when applying the brakes on a competition pulling tractor that have an extremely stiff clutch pressure spring (on the driveshaft), great effort is required (strong leg muscles) to overcome and compress the clutch spring before the brakes can be safely applied. When rolling the tractor off a trailer, this also requires even greater effort to depress the clutch/brake pedal to apply the brakes especially by hand (and arm muscles). What can be done to change this is separate the brake(s) and the clutch operations by disconnecting the brake linkage from the clutch/brake pedal cross shaft, and fabricate a long upright lever (with an adjustable linkage) on the right side of the steering column support pedestal which can be easily and effortlessly pulled back (rearward) by hand to apply the brakes. The clutch/brake pedal will then become just a "clutch pedal," and the lever will be the "brake lever." This would make it much safer and easier to fully stop or slow the tractor down a steep hill or when unloading the tractor down the ramp(s) of a utility trailer or platform work table than on the floor or ground. Also, a "parking brake" lock mechanism can be installed on the brake lever-to-tractor frame to securely lock the brakes in position to prevent the tractor from rolling or coasting when the tractor is out of gear and the engine running.
If an OEM 3-pin clutch drive
plate is bent next to the drive studs (MTD) or coiled/spiral pin collars
(IH), to fix this:
If the bronze pilot bushing in a drive plate is excessively worn, this means that the OEM pressure plates are badly out of balance and/or there was no grease applied to the bushing or on the driveshaft before installation of the clutch assembly in the tractor. In either case, resurface the pressure plates until they're perfectly flat and true-up the edge to prevent wobble in a metal lathe. IMPORTANT: To ensure true flatness when resurfacing pressure plates, use a lathe that's in good condition with very little wear on the ways! (IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable using a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist with a lathe.)
Advertisement: (Prices are subject to change without notice.)
| Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website. |
 Extra Thick Flywheel / Aluminum
Hub Adapter Retaining Washers. A must to secure flywheel and prevent OEM
Cub Cadet or billet aluminum hub adapter breakage. Each made of steel and
measures approximately 1/4" thick x 1-1/4" O.D.
|
 Step Washer. Use to center
cast aluminum or billet hub adapter with a 5/8" hole to a crankshaft with
the 3/8" bolt on later model Kohler K-series and all Magnum engines. A must
to prevent severe wobble/vibration and prevent hub and/or driveshaft/clutch
breakage. Dimensions: 3/8" I.D. x 5/8" O.D. step x approximately 1-1/4" overall
O.D. x 1/2" overall height. Professionally machined by Brian Miller.
|
Cub Cadet garden tractor
hub adapters with 5/8" center hole (early K-series), w/pulley, w/dowel pin.
Cub Cadet garden tractor hub adapters with 3/8" center hole (later K-series, all KT-series and Magnum), w/o pulley, w/dowel pin.
|
 1/4" diameter x 3/4" length
hardened steel dowel pin for OEM and billet aluminum hub adapters. Secures
aluminum hub to flywheel to prevent slippage. Replaces Cub Cadet part # KH-X-56-7
and Kohler part # X-56-7. $1.50 each, plus shipping & handling. |
 Flywheel grass/safety steel
screen for use in IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractors with Kohler engine models
K161 and K181. 5-9/16" diameter.
|
 Flywheel grass/safety steel
screen for use in IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractors with Kohler engine models
K241 and K301. 7" diameter.
|
Resurfacing and Truing Up Worn and Warped OEM Cub Cadet Pressure Plates -
For any clutch disc to adhere or grip well and to prevent slippage, both OEM pressure plates must be resurfaced until they're perfectly flat in a metal lathe. (IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable using a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist with a lathe.) The outer edge should be trued-up in a small metal lathe so they'll be perfectly round (to reduce pilot bushing wear, and resurfaced perfectly flat for better clutch adhesion), which can cause the pilot bushing to wear excessively. For a used clutch assembly, chances are, the composite clutch disc is worn to match the wear on the pressure plates. If the clutch disc is worn, but still reusable, it can be resurfaced until perfectly flat in the lathe as well. For best clutch adhesion and to lessen the chance of slippage, the clutch-to-pressure plates surface contact areas must be flat against flat for 100% contact. Because new OEM Cub Cadet garden tractor pressure plates are made of stamped steel and are not machined whatsoever. This means they are not perfectly flat and they wobble from the factory. If used pressure plates have not been resurfaced before, then chances are, they'll still be thick enough after being resurfaced. Always remove the minimal amount of metal to retain maximum thickness so they will not warp when hot.
NOTE: Before reassembling the clutch assembly, apply a thin coat of automotive grease on the area of the driveshaft where the throw-out bearing and where the rear pressure plate slides back and forth. The grease will assure full clutch disengagement, lessen wear to the driveshaft, and it will prevent the rear pressure plate from sticking to the driveshaft due to rust if the tractor is stored in a damp environment. Also, while the rear pressure plate is off the driveshaft, to prevent it from binding on the 2nd coiled/spiral pin, which can prevent the clutch from disengaging, widen the slot slightly with a flat file or on the edge of the blade on a chopsaw. (Be sure to wear safety glasses!) And it'll be a good idea to drill a small hole near the center of the rear pressure plate to relieve the air that can get trapped between the pressure plates.
Advertisement: (Prices are subject to change without notice.)
| Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website. |
| A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Services -
FACT: New OEM Cub Cadet garden tractor pressure plates from the factory are made of stamped steel (in a press) and NOT machined whatsoever in a metal lathe. This means the clutch contact area is not perfectly flat, which may cause the clutch disc to slip, and the outer edge is somewhat egg-shape, which causes them to wobble, have run-out and run out-of-balance, resulting in a worn pilot bushing and slight vibration throughout the entire tractor. New unmachined OEM pressure plates are exactly 3/16" thick. Therefore, minimal metal is removed to maintain maximum thickness and diameter for full clutch contact.
|
Warped OEM Cub Cadet garden tractor pressure plates will eventually allow a single or even double clutch setup to slip. They warp due to overheating when "slipping the clutch". When they get warped, they don't make full contact with the entire surface of the clutch disc. Whenever a new clutch disc is installed, rather if it's an OEM one or made of aluminum, the OEM pressure plates should always be trued-up in a small metal lathe so they'll be perfectly round and resurfaced perfectly flat for better clutch adhesion. (IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable using a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist with a lathe.) New OEM pressure plates are stamped in a press and not machined in a lathe. This means they're not as flat or turn as true as ones that's been machined in a lathe. Therefore, if new or used OEM pressure plates are going to be used for pulling or heavy lawn and garden use, have the outer edge trued-up in a small metal lathe so they'll be perfectly round and resurfaced perfectly flat for better clutch adhesion. Because new OEM pressure plates are made of stamped steel and are not machined whatsoever. This means they are not perfectly flat and they wobble from the factory. If used OEM pressure plates have not been resurfaced before, then chances are, they'll still be thick enough after being resurfaced. Always remove the minimal amount of metal to retain maximum thickness so they will not warp when hot.
The OEM Cub Cadet garden tractor pressure plates are 3/16" (.188") thick. On the average, approximately .005" of metal is removed from the face of each pressure plate after it have been resurfaced until perfectly flat. Removing this much metal will not weaken the plates whatsoever, even when used with a very stout pressure spring.
With both OEM pressure plates properly resurfaced until perfectly flat, the OEM composite clutch, with 4-1/2" diameter OEM pressure plates, have a total disc to plate contact area of 17.7 square inches. The aluminum disc on the other hand (as described in this web site), have a total contact area of 29.8 square inches. You may look at this disc and ask, "where's the friction material?" Well, the aluminum itself is the friction material. The aluminum disc will adhere to (grip) steel a lot better than a composite clutch disc. Both of these type of clutch types, when used with a high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring, have been proven to hold very well in heavy pulling. IMPORTANT: To ensure true flatness when resurfacing pressure plates, use a lathe that's in good condition with very little wear on the ways!
Save the Hubs!
If the discs in your OEM pressure plates are heavily rusted, worn too thin or warped badly and resurfacing them in a lathe didn't do any good, instead of making two entirely new pressure plates, what could be done is remove the center hub from each disc with a hydraulic press and reuse the hubs to make two new pressure plates. This would save from having to fabricate a couple of new hubs.
If the center hole in the slotted hub of the rear [sliding] pressure plate is worn oblong (rare), the hole can be repaired by boring it true in a metal lathe, and a steel sleeve bushing will need to be pressed in and welded in to prevent it from coming loose, and the hole in the bushing will need to be center-bored to .626". The slot will need to be carefully ground out in the bushing to match the slot in the hub using the blade in an electric chop saw with a metal cut-off wheel. Finally, the face of the pressure plate can be trued-up in a small metal lathe so they'll be perfectly round and resurfaced perfectly flat for better clutch adhesion. (Remember to wear safety glasses!) (IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable using a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist with a lathe.)
Use distilled white vinegar to remove rust from inside gas tanks, tools, bolts/nuts, clutch OEM pressure plates or virtually any steel or cast iron part: vinegar rust removal - YouTube.
If a single composite clutch disc slips in a stock competition pulling tractor, then what is required to prevent clutch slippage is to install a single piece of machined aluminum to serve as a clutch disc. With resurfaced OEM pressure plates and a high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring, aluminum should grip and hold up well when used in a stock competition pulling tractor. By the way, the OEM sandwiched steel composite clutch disc and an aluminum clutch disc weighs almost the same; about 10.6 ounces each.
The aluminum clutch disc works best for low RPM stock engines. If an aluminum clutch disc is used, there's no need to install three extra studs in the 3-pin drive plate (see below Ê ). But definitely have both OEM pressure plates resurfaced until perfectly flat as described above È. Depending on the size of engine and weight of tractor, the aluminum clutch disc require a tougher driveshaft along with a high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring. And it'll be a good idea to install a center support bearing (center support pillow block bearing and brace) to prevent the driveshaft from wobbling at 4,000 RPM.
The
biggest mistake a puller can make when launching a tractor is letting the
clutch out all of a sudden with the engine revved up. So when using aluminum
as a clutch disc (or any metallic clutch material), and when the tractor
is hooked to the sled, always remember to "slip" the clutch upon take-off.
To do this, first rev up the engine (a lot), then slowly ease out on the
clutch pedal. Because an
aluminum clutch
disc may not "slip" at low RPM, and because aluminum
adheres to steel very well when under pressure, if the pedal is let out all
of a sudden with the engine revved up, and if the tires don't spin, something
could break or get damaged in the drive train or transaxle. The 5/8" zinc-plated
steel split lock washer that's placed between the pressure plates will aide
greatly in smooth clutch engagement/release and it lessens the possibility
of the clutch from "grabbing" upon take-off.
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| Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website. | |
Drive Belt. Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 482,
580, 582 Special, 1100, 1204 and 1604. This V-belt goes from the Peerless
right-angle gearbox to the Peerless transaxle.
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OEM Cub Cadet garden tractor 6" O.D. clutch disc with 3 drive holes. Must be used with a 3-pin/stud drive plate. Reinforced composite material with sandwiched steel. Listed for use in Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 106, 108, 122, 124, 126, 128, 580, 582, 800, 1000, 1200, 1604 and 1606. OEM Cub Cadet part # 961-3002. $74.00 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Cub Cadet garden tractor 6-1/2" O.D. clutch disc with 3 drive holes. Must be used with a 3-pin/stud drive plate. Reinforced composite material with sandwiched steel. Listed for use in Cub Cadet models 1050, 1535 and 1806. OEM Cub Cadet part # 961-3011. $72.25 each, plus shipping & handling. [Return To Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]
FYI - About 90% of the composite material in clutch discs will chip off were the holes are due to the following reasons:
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A-1 Miller's Original Machined Aluminum Clutch Disc Kit. This
is an alternate and direct replacement for the
OEM-type composite material clutch disc. Kit
includes 6-hole aluminum clutch disc, 5/8" I.D. split lock washer (goes in
center of aluminum disc and between OEM pressure plates (provides smooth
clutch engagement and guaranteed release) and steel spacer (replaces OEM
teasing spring). Precision machined of high quality 6061 alloy medium-grade
hardness aluminum in my metal lathe and milling machine with an 8" super
spacer. Drive holes are drilled 13/32" for minimum clutch disc noise/rattle
and less chance of breakage to the drive pins/studs. IMPORTANT: Use only
with the red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150±
lb.) pressure spring and not the OEM spring to prevent clutch slippage.
A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept
no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them
acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.)
IMPORTANT! It is highly recommended that both OEM
pressure plates be trued-up in a small metal lathe so they'll be perfectly
round and resurfaced perfectly flat for better clutch adhesion, or severe
clutch slippage will likely result! Because new OEM pressure plates are made
of stamped steel and are not machined in a lathe whatsoever. If used OEM
pressure plates have not been resurfaced before, then chances are, they'll
still be thick enough after being resurfaced. Always remove the minimal amount
of metal to retain maximum thickness so they will not warp and become
convexed when hot.
CUB CADET
124 WORK PART 2 - YouTube
Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page] |
|
 Cub Cadet Garden
Tractor Clutch Disc Anti-Rattle Spring. Reduces annoying clutch disc rattle
on drive pins/studs and reduces wear to drive holes in clutch disc. Although
one spring may be sufficient to reduce clutch noise, it may be necessary
to install three springs (one for each pin/stud) for 100% reduced clutch
noise. Can be used on composite or aluminum clutch discs. NOTE: Recommended
for up to 4,000 RPM engines. Not for use on high RPM or wide open throttle
competition pulling tractors due to normal engine harmonic vibrations that
travels out into the clutch assembly, this can create the possibility of
the spring(s) becoming dislodged, which could become a hazardous airborne
projectile if clutch is not properly shielded 360º. So if possible,
install these springs with the coil between the clutch disc and drive plate,
opposite that is shown in the photo to the right, to prevent them from coming
off.
CUB CADET
124 WORK PART 2 - YouTube
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How to Get a composite or the Aluminum Clutch Disc to Engage Smoothly -
The OEM Cub Cadet garden tractor clutch cushion spring (as it is called in the early/narrow frame Cub Cadet garden tractors) or teasing spring (as it is called in the later models/wide and spread frame Cub Cadet garden tractors) goes between the rear pressure plate and clutch release/throw-out bearing. It's purpose is to allow the rear pressure plate to gently press against the clutch disc as the clutch is engaged without having a "jerky" clutch. When using an aluminum clutch disc, the teasing spring can be replaced with a steel spacer or a stack of small outside diameter flat washers (the ones that originally comes on Cub Cadet garden tractor driveshafts) and an ordinary, zinc-plated steel split lock washer. Install the lock washer between the pressure plates (dead center of the clutch disc) for a smoother clutch engagement. Clutch slippage may result if used with the OEM Cub Cadet garden tractor clutch pressure spring. Therefore, the aluminum clutch disc should be used with a stiffer-than-stock pressure spring, such as the high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring.
For the narrow-frame Cub Cadet
garden tractors, the steel spacer needs to be 3/8" in length. (The teasing
spring is compressed to 3/8" when the clutch is fully engaged.) And for Cub
Cadet garden tractor models 86, 108, 128, 800, 1000, 1200 and 1535, the spacer
needs to 5/8" length or use the OEM protective cup/spacer (for the teasing)
that originally comes on the driveshaft, but leave the teasing spring out.
By the way - the small end of the protective cup/spacer goes against the
clutch release/throw-out bearing. If a too
long of a spacer or the protective spacer/cup is used in a narrow frame model,
the clutch release/throw-out bearing would
set too far back on the driveshaft and when the clutch/brake pedal is depressed,
the release lever will make contact with the
steering box and the clutch will not be able to release.
To prevent the teasing spring
from possibly breaking and to help the clutch(es) to engage more smoothly,
simply don't use the teasing spring. Instead, replace where the teasing spring
goes on the driveshaft with a piece of heavy wall round steel tubing that
measures 7/8" O.D. x 3/8" (narrow frame) or 5/8" (wide frame) long x 41/64"
I.D. Then install an ordinary zinc-plated 5/8" I.D. split lock washer between
the pressure plates, dead center of the clutch disc. Lock washers have a
spring-like action too, plus they'll last a lot longer than a teasing spring.
The lock washer does two things - it acts like a spring, which forces the pressure plates apart, it provides smooth clutch engagement and it'll help to prevent the possibility of the clutch disc from "grabbing" upon take-off. In addition, the spring-like action of the lock washer will expand the pressure plates when the clutch/brake pedal is fully depressed so they will release from the clutch disc. Doing this will guarantee that the clutch will engage smoothly and release every time. So when reassembling a clutch assembly, don't install the teasing spring. Instead, install the spacer and lock washer as described above È. You'll be glad you did.
Or for a bullet-proof teasing spring setup, and/or if the aluminum clutch disc doesn't engage smoothly, instead of using the 5/8" lock washer between the pressure plates and the teasing spring or a steel spacer, install a flat washer, the 5/8" lock washer, then another flat washer until they all total to about 3/8" or 5/8" in height with the lock washer fully uncompressed.
The correct order of installing Cub Cadet garden tractor clutch parts on the driveshaft is listed below Ê. NOTE: Before reassembling the clutch assembly, apply a thin coat of automotive grease on the area of the driveshaft where the throw-out bearing and where the rear pressure plate slides back and forth. The grease will assure full clutch disengagement, lessen wear to the driveshaft, and it will prevent the rear pressure plate from sticking to the driveshaft due to rust if the tractor is stored in a damp environment. Also, while the rear pressure plate is off the driveshaft, to prevent it from binding on the 2nd coiled/spiral pin, which can prevent the clutch from disengaging, widen the slot slightly with a flat file or on the edge of the blade on a chopsaw. (Be sure to wear safety glasses!) And it'll be a good idea to drill a small hole near the center of the rear pressure plate to relieve the air that can get trapped between the pressure plates.
| 1. Install 3rd coiled/spiral pin then the main
pressure spring. 2. Install clutch release/throw-out bearing (small end facing forward of tractor). 3. Install release lever . 4. Install protective spacer/cup (small end goes against clutch release/throw-out bearing). 5. Install teasing spring (for a fiber clutch disc) or steel spacer (for an aluminum clutch disc). |
6. Compress the pressure spring and install the 2nd coiled/spiral
pin. 7. Install pressure plate w/slotted hub. 8. Install zinc-plated steel split lock washer (use only with the aluminum clutch disc and very stiff pressure spring). 9. Install clutch disc. 10. Install pressure plate w/solid hub, then the 1st coiled/spiral pin. |
How to Replace a Broken Teasing Spring on a Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Driveshaft (with the driveshaft in the tractor) - (Added 8/28/17)
The Clutch Pedal Return Spring and Maintaining Proper Clutch Adjustment -
Install the clutch pedal return spring to prevent from wearing
both the clutch release/throw-out bearing
and release lever. Don't just install a cotter
pin in place of it. A pedal return spring is a short, very stiff, expansion
spring with a hook on each end. The size is approximately 3/4" diameter x
2-1/8" in overall length. And do not "ride the clutch"! Take your foot
off the clutch pedal when the tractor is in motion.
The return spring connects from the hole in the end of the clutch adjustment/release rod to a hole in the cross member that's in the tractor's frame. Install one end of the spring in the linkage first, then install the other end in the cross member. NOTE: It may be difficult to get the end of the spring in the hole because of the tension, but it can be done and it MUST be done. (I do it all the time with our muscles, Vise Grips and a little leverage from our trusty small pry bar.)
If a pedal return spring is not installed or if the operator "rides the clutch" when pulling or when the tractor is in operation (keeping one's foot on the clutch pedal at all times), this will cause the clutch release/throw-out bearing to spin the same speed as the engine, wearing it out prematurely. This will also wear the release lever as well. So making the proper adjustment and not "riding the clutch" will help the clutch release/throw-out bearing last a very long time. The return spring connects from the hole in the end of the clutch adjustment/release rod to a hole in the cross member in the tractor's frame. NOTE: It may be somewhat difficult to get the end of the spring in the hole because of the tension, but it can be done, and it must be done. (I do it all the time with our Vise Grips and a little leverage from our trusty small pry bar.)
How to Set the Correct Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Drive Clutch Adjustment -
When the clutch/brake pedal
is fully disengaged (not depressed), no part of the
clutch release/throw-out bearing is supposed
to make contact with the clutch release lever.
Otherwise, the clutch
release/throw-out bearing will turn the same RPM as the engine. If
these continually make contact with the engine running and while the tractor
is in motion, the driveshaft will continually spin the
throw-out bearing, causing it to overheat
and eventually burn-out, and the contact area on the
release lever will likely to wear excessively.
The excessive heat from the overheated throw-out bearing could travel into
and weaken (damage) the front end of the main pressure spring too, making
it place less pressure against the clutch disc. This will occur with ordinary
lawn and garden, and competition pulling tractors alike. Therefore, to set
the correct clearance and "safe" operating distance between the
throw-out
bearing and release lever, with the
clutch/brake pedal fully disengaged (not depressed) and the clutch/brake
pedal arm/lever against the pedal stop, which is a small angled steel spot-welded
to the tractor frame, and with a pedal return spring installed, turn the
self-locking nut on the L-shape clutch adjustment/release rod (that's on
the lower part of the release lever) until there's
9/32" - 5/16" of clearance between the pedal arm/lever and pedal stop. This
will allow for .050" - .060" (approximately 1/16") of clearance between the
throw-out
bearing and release lever. The clutch
disc should release fully from the pressure plates and the driveshaft should
immediately stop rotating with the engine running when the pedal is depressed.
Use a
9/16" size boxed-in ratcheting wrench to
make the Cub Cadet garden tractor clutch adjustment much easier. And an accurate
way to check for the correct clearance between the
clutch release/throw-out bearing and clutch
release lever is to use a 7mm or 5/16" rod or
square stock as a thickness gauge. When the self-locking nut on the L-shape
adjustment/release rod is turned clockwise (when facing the front of the
tractor), this decreases the clearance, and when the nut is turned
counterclockwise, this increases the clearance. Also, if a tractor doesn't
already have one, definitely install a pedal return spring
(extension spring) of the correct length on the clutch
adjustment/release rod to the hole in the cross member that's welded between
the frame rails so pressure from the release lever
will be taken off the clutch release/throw-out
bearing when the clutch/brake pedal is fully disengaged (not depressed)
to prevent from premature and excessive wearing of the clutch release/throw-out
bearing and/or release lever.
[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
To disassemble the clutch components from the driveshaft, this is how I do it:
For safety, a
hydraulic press should be used to compress the large pressure
spring on the driveshaft to reassemble the clutch components!
To test how well the clutch will release out of the tractor, place the clutch assembly in the hydraulic press with each end of the release lever on a couple of blocks, and apply slight downward pressure on the end of the driveshaft. The clutch disc should rotate or "move around" freely without binding. If the disc doesn't rotate or binds, redo your work to find out what went wrong.
How to Fix a "Sticking" Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Drive Clutch (when it will not release) -
Before reassembling the clutch assembly, apply a thin coat of automotive grease on the area of the driveshaft where the throw-out bearing and where the rear pressure plate slides back and forth. The grease will assure full clutch disengagement, lessen wear to the driveshaft, and it will prevent the rear pressure plate from sticking to the driveshaft due to rust if the tractor is stored in a damp environment. Also, while the rear pressure plate is off the driveshaft, to prevent it from binding on the 2nd coiled/spiral pin, which can prevent the clutch from disengaging, widen the slot slightly with a flat file or on the edge of the blade on a chopsaw. (Be sure to wear safety glasses!) And it'll be a good idea to drill a small hole near the center of the rear pressure plate to relieve the air that can get trapped between the pressure plates.
The Much Over-Looked Clutch Release Lever Clevis Pin -
If the straight 3/8" diameter
OEM Cub Cadet garden tractor
clevis pivot pin that goes through the clutch hanger bracket
and release lever is worn, this part should be
replaced with an angled pivot pin. As the engine runs with the clutch
fully engaged (foot off the clutch pedal, of course), due to normal engine
vibration and slight out-of-balance rotating clutch parts, the OEM round
pin continually spins, causing the pin itself and the holes in the hanger
bracket to wear. The holes in the release lever
rarely wear because the entire lever is made of hardened, heat-treated steel.
By replacing the round pin with an angled pin (with the short end long enough
to make contact with the tractor frame or hanger bracket), it can't spin.
Therefore, there'll be much less wear on the pin and holes, the
clutch release/throw-out bearing will last
longer, there'll be less noise coming from the clutch parts, clutch operation
will be smoother, and clutch adjustment will remain the same for a longer
time. (I think the engineers at IH Cub Cadet should have originally installed
an angled pin in their tractors. But then again, they probably didn't plan
on their tractors being in use 40-50 years later.)
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| Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website. | |||
Clevis/Pivot
Pins for Cub Cadet garden tractor clutch release
lever bracket. The 90º/angled/L-shape clevis/pivot pin is an alternative
to using the OEM straight clevis/pivot pin or a grade 8 bolt and lock nut.
The short part of the L-shape pin makes contact with the pedestal assembly
(narrow frame tractors) or hanger bracket (wide/spread frame tractors) to
prevent the holes in the hanger bracket and release
lever from wearing oblong due to constant spinning of the OEM straight
pin from normal engine vibration. The L-shape pin lessens clutch noise/rattle,
reduces wasted free-play in clutch pedal travel, maintains proper release
lever to throw-out bearing adjustment, and allows for smoother and less "sloppy"
clutch operation. The 90º/angled/L-shape clevis/pivot pin is A proven,
ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised
copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my
ingenuity and intelligence.)
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 New
clutch hanger bracket for narrow frame clutch drive IH Cub Cadet garden tractor
models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124 and 126.
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 New
clutch hanger bracket for wide frame clutch drive IH Cub Cadet garden tractor
models 86, 108, 128, 800, 1000 and 1200. Also for models 1250, 1450 and 1650
with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment.
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 New
clutch hanger bracket for spread frame clutch drive, IH- or MTD-built Cub
Cadet garden tractor models 580, 582, 1050, 1604, 1606 and 1806. May also
fit model 1535. Requires clevis pin w/cotter pin.
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Clutch hanger bracket for spread frame clutch drive MTD-built Cub Cadet garden
tractor model 1535. May also fit models 580, 582, 1050, 1604, 1606 and 1806.
Requires shoulder bolt w/locknut.
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  Clutch Release
Lever. Fits all narrow frame Cub Cadet clutch drive garden tractor models
70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124 and 126.
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  Clutch Release Levers. Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models
86, 108 and 128. Can also be used for models 800, 1000 and 1200 with
solid motor mounts.
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 Clutch Release Levers. Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models
800, 1000 and 1200. Can also can be used for models 86, 108 and 128 with
no modifications. Also for models 1250, 1450 and 1650 with a hydrostatic
disconnect attachment.
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 Clutch Release Levers for all
spread frame IH- and MTD-built Cub Cadet garden tractor models 580, 582,
1050, 1535, 1604, 1606 and 1806.
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 Clutch
Adjustment/Release Rod. Fits IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor. Length:
6-9/16" from middle of bend to end of threads.
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 Nylon Insert
Self-Locking Nuts for 3/8" diameter threaded L-shape clutch adjustment/release
rods listed above. Replace OEM adjusting nut with worn threads to maintain
correct clutch adjustment on virtually all Cub Cadet clutch drive garden
tractors. Grade 8 material with 3/8-24 UNF threads. NOTE: Use a (9/16"
size)
boxed-in ratcheting wrench for much easier and precise
clutch adjustment.
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 Clutch Release
Tension Compression Springs. Fits all models of Cub Cadet clutch drive garden
tractors. Slides over threaded end of 3/8" diameter L-shape clutch
release/adjustment rod (listed above). A must for proper adjustment in Cub
Cadet clutch drive garden tractors to prevent premature wear to
clutch release/throw-out bearing and clutch
release lever, and to prevent annoying rattling
sound when the clearance between the throw-out
bearing and release lever is set correctly.
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Clutch
Pedal Return Spring. 2-1/2" Unextended Length. Fits Cub Cadet garden
tractor models 70, 71, 72, 100, 102, 104, 105, 122, 123, 124 and 125. Replace
damaged, weak or missing pedal return spring. Prevents premature (and expensive)
wear to clutch release/throw-out bearing
and clutch release lever, and to prevent annoying
rattling sound when the clearance between the
throw-out bearing and release lever is adjusted correctly. OEM spring
no longer available from Cub Cadet.
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How to Save a Used Clutch Release/Throw-Out Bearing - A proven,
ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise
this.
If
a used clutch release/throw-out bearing is
still pretty much "tight," but sounds noisy or "rattles" when you spin it
by hand, it could be saved from further wear by pumping it full of automotive
grease. The same can be done to a new bearing to ensure that it will last
a long time. (I've done this many times when I rebuild clutch assemblies
and have never had one complaint!) The fresh grease will help keep the
balls within the bearing well-lubricated and cool, preventing them from further
wear. But if the bearing is badly worn or if you're in doubt about doing
this, then perhaps install a new one. (Cub Cadet part # 741-3056)
When assembling the clutch
components, never install the clutch release/throw-out bearing on the
driveshaft backwards! Install it with the collar (the center part that
sticks out) towards the clutch disc.
How to save a used clutch release/throw-out bearing:
Using either a
needle grease injector (resembles a
hypodermic syringe that attaches to an
automotive grease gun) or a
chainsaw bar tip grease gun, pump the bearing through the
drilled hole until it's full of automotive grease. Rotate the bearing 180º
by hand and pump it again. It's full when the grease starts to ooze out of
the dust seals. By the way - the needle grease injector or chainsaw bar
tip grease gun can also be used to relubricate used sealed roller bearings
or add additional grease to new sealed roller bearings. And the chainsaw
bar tip grease gun comes in handy for lubricating a lot of different small
parts.
And for anyone who's ever wondered about this, when the Cub Cadet garden tractor clutch/brake pedal is fully depressed, the clutch release lever moves the throw-out bearing exactly 3/8" rearward on the driveshaft.
Advertisement: (Prices are subject to change without notice.)
| Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website. |
 Teasing [Compression] Spring
and Protective Thrust Washer. Fits all models of Cub Cadet clutch drive garden
tractors, including Cub Cadet garden tractor models 1250, 1450 and 1650 equipped
with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment, and Cub Cadet "Original" garden
tractor (thrust washer not required). Spring allows for smooth engagement
of fiber clutch disc, and washer prevents spring from breaking. The thrust
washer goes between the rear slotted pressure plate and teasing spring. Purpose
of thrust washer is for each time the clutch is engaged, the rotating motion
of the throw-out bearing will sometimes cause the blunt end of the spring
to "catch" in the slot of the rear pressure plate, which twists the spring
a few thousandths of an inch. Overtime, this twisting motion creates metal
fatigue in the spring and could cause it to eventually break, even when used
with the OEM Cub Cadet cup/spacer listed below. The thrust washer prevents
the spring from breaking. A thoroughly tested, proven, ingenious and
innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products
of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and
intelligence.) FYI: There is
a custom-made sleeve available from an aftermarket vendor that goes over
the teasing spring (much like the cup/spacer listed below). But being the
coils of the teasing spring does not expand outward when the clutch is engaged,
this sleeve will not prevent the spring from possibly twisting and breaking.
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Cup/Spacer for Teasing
Spring listed above. Specifically used in Cub Cadet clutch drive garden tractor
models 580, 582, 800, 1000, 1200, 1535, 1604, 1606 and 1806, including Cub
Cadet garden tractor models 1250, 1450 and 1650 equipped with a hydrostatic
disconnect attachment. IMPORTANT: When installing this part on
the driveshaft, the wide/flared-end faces forward and the narrow end goes
against the throw-out bearing. And do not install this part in any other
model of Cub Cadet garden tractor then listed above in an attempt to prevent
the teasing spring from possibly breaking over time. (Use the protective
thrust washer listed above instead.) Doing so will position the throw-out
bearing further back on the driveshaft than in the original position and
not allow the clutch disc to either fully disengage or disengage at all.
 Cup/Spacer for Teasing Spring
listed further above. Specifically used in Cub Cadet garden tractor model
1050; 2" overall length. Comes with installed grease fitting.
IMPORTANT: When installing this part on driveshaft, the wide/flared
end faces forward and the narrow end goes against the
clutch release/throw-out bearing. And
lubricate this part through the Zerk grease
fitting with an
automotive grease gun once a year for
preventive maintenance. Because grease cost a lot less
than any mechanical replacement part(s)!
|
 Clutch Release/Throw-Out
Bearings for IH Cub Cadet narrow frame garden tractor models 70, 71, 72,
73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124 and 126. Bearing dimensions: 5/8" I.D. x
1.570" O.D. NOTE: The protruding center part of the bearing faces forward
in the tractor, toward the engine.
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 Zerk
Grease Fittings. A grease fitting should be installed in [one piece]
wheel hubs or outer tubing with a rotating shaft so the [unshielded]
bearings/bushings or shaft will last longer when lubricated once a year with
an
automotive grease gun. Do not use a grease fitting on split
rim wheels. Remember - the moving part will likely wear more than the stationary
part. To install a grease fitting, drill a 13/64" hole, and use a 1/4-28
UNF TAPER hand tap to cut new threads for installation of the fitting.
Click or tap here to
learn how to professionally drill for and cut new threads. FYI - If a
grease fitting needs to be used in a thin-wall steel tubing (that's too thin
to cut deep enough threads into so the threads on the grease fitting will
not interfere with the inner shaft) to lubricate a moving inner shaft, weld
a
jam nut with 1/4-28 UNF threads on the tubing, then drill
a 3/16" hole through the nut/tubing, and install the grease fitting (with
short threads) in the nut. And remember - grease fittings provide
preventive maintenance only when people think to use them
regularly. Because grease cost less than any major repair of equipment.
[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
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Information About the Clutch Main Pressure Spring -
If a light-weight tractor with a governed engine (up to 4,000 RPM) is going to be used for general yard work, it's okay to use the stock OEM Cub Cadet garden tractor pressure spring with the OEM composite clutch disc. A good used stock OEM pressure spring and a new OEM spring should measure no less than 6-1/2" in uncompressed length. The maximum length is 7". But the compressed length (on the driveshaft with the clutch pedal fully depressed) is 5". If a spring have been used on a driveshaft with an overheated or burned-out clutch release/throw-out bearing, it's best to replace both. And if the OEM pressure plates have been resurfaced until perfectly flat, but the clutch still slips in the heavier chores, perhaps a high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring may need to be installed. (See below Ê.)
If the tractor stops pulling about halfway down the track, and if the engine is still running, but the tires aren't spinning, then the clutch is slipping. For the OEM pressure plates to grip the clutch disc(s) firmly, the pressure spring must be a very stout one. The Cub Cadet garden tractor clutch pressure spring have about 250 psi of pressure and will probably not prevent the clutch from slipping in a competition pulling tractor. Therefore, a high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring works excellent with the OEM clutch disc or aluminum disc. The OEM clutch release lever may need to be extended 3" with either of these springs for easier clutch pedal depression.
How to Reinforce the Clutch Release Lever Brace on a Wide and Spread Frame Cub Cadet Garden Tractor When Using the Yellow Spring -
Install a piece of 1/8" x 1" x (you'll need to measure the length if the transaxle have been moved rearward) flat steel from the center of the clutch release lever brace back to one of the upper bolts on the front of the transaxle. Use grade 8 bolts so it can be removed later in case of repairs. This is much easier to do on a platform work table than on the floor or ground. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]
Advertisement: (Prices are subject to change without notice.)
| Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website. |
 OEM
Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Clutch Compression Springs. Suitable for
general lawn and garden work only; not recommended for competition pulling.
Approximately 6-3/4" to 7" uncompressed length.
High Pressure Clutch Compression Springs; 800± lb. "Red" Spring, and 1,150± lb. "Yellow" Spring. Fits all models of Cub Cadet clutch drive garden tractors. When installed, either spring should be compressed to 4-1/2" in length. These springs are approximately 3/4" shorter in length than the OEM spring listed above, so if using the 3rd coiled/spiral pin hole in the middle of the driveshaft at its OEM location, a 3/4" steel spacer will need to be added behind the spring so it can apply maximum pressure against the clutch disc. When installing either of the springs listed below, use the original 3rd coiled/spiral pin hole location on the driveshaft, which should measure 9-1/4" from the very front of the driveshaft, or better yet, install one (for a stress proof steel driveshaft) or two (for a stainless steel driveshaft) split clamping/locking collar(s) at 9-1/4" from the very front of the driveshaft with a center support pillow block bearing and brace to prevent driveshaft wobble and reduce chance of driveshaft breakage at open RPM engine operation. And depending on type of clutch disc used, the Red spring is suitable for Hot-Stock and NQS Stock-Altered tractors, and the Yellow spring is suitable for 16hp Missouri Super-Stock, Pro-Stock and Modified tractors. Either are ideal for use with my aluminum clutch disc setup. With either of these aftermarket springs, the OEM clutch release lever should be extended 3" longer for easier depression of the clutch/brake pedal. Dimensions of each spring: 5/8" I.D. x 1-1/4" O.D. x 6" length.
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Advertisement: (Prices are subject to change without notice.)
| Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website. |
Teasing [Compression] Spring
and Protective Thrust Washer. Spring allows for smooth engagement of the
fiber clutch disc, and the washer prevents the spring from breaking. Fits
all models of Cub Cadet clutch drive garden tractors, including Cub Cadet
garden tractor models 1250, 1450 and 1650 equipped with a hydrostatic disconnect
attachment, and Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor (thrust washer not required).
The thrust washer goes between the rear slotted pressure plate and teasing
spring. Purpose of thrust washer is for each time the clutch is engaged,
the rotating motion of the throw-out bearing will sometimes cause the blunt
end of the spring to "catch" in the slot of the rear pressure plate, which
twists the spring a few thousandths of an inch. Overtime, the twisting creates
metal fatigue in the spring and could cause it to eventually break, even
when used with the cup/spacer listed below. The thrust washer prevents this
from happening. A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller.
Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate
them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.)
FYI: There is a custom-made sleeve
available from an aftermarket vendor that goes over the teasing spring (much
like the cup/spacer listed below). But being the coils of the teasing spring
does not expand outward when the clutch is engaged, this sleeve will not
prevent the spring from possibly twisting and breaking. Therefore, it's been
proven to use the protective thrust washer instead.
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  Spherical, Self-Aligning 5/8" I.D. Swivel Sealed Collar Bearing
with Eccentric Locking Collar for front of IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden
tractor driveshaft. Reuse OEM two-bolt, two-piece stamped steel retainers.
High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part #'s IH-468390-R93
(collar bearing), IH-468391-R11 (eccentric locking collar) and IH-376272-R1
(retainers). $20.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Spherical, Self-Aligning 5/8" I.D. Set Screw Collar Sealed Swivel Ball Bearing with two-bolt, two-piece stamped steel retainers. Retainers has 2-1/2" bolt spacing. High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part #'s IH-468390-R93 (collar bearing), IH-468391-R11 (eccentric locking collar) and IH-376272-R1 (retainers). $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
Bronze Bushing. Fits inside
IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor clutch release collar housing. Grind
or drill hole in bushing to lubricate through Zerk
grease fitting. Dimensions: 1" I.D. x 1.125" O.D. x 1" length.
IMPORTANT: Lubricate the bushing and needle bearing in the clutch release
collar assembly with automotive grease before the tractor is put back into
service.
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 Needle Thrust Bearing and
Two Thrust Washers. Goes inside IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor clutch
release collar housing. Dimensions: 1" I.D. x 1-9/16" O.D. x .030" thickness
thrust washers. IMPORTANT: Lubricate the bushing and needle bearing in
the clutch release collar assembly with automotive grease before the tractor
is put back into service.
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 IH Cub Cadet "Original" Garden
Tractor Clutch Release Collar Assembly. Replace worn-beyond-reuse clutch
release collar housing. Includes clutch release collar housing, new bronze
bushing and new thrust needle bearing with two new thrust washers. Replaces
discontinued Cub Cadet part # IH-376258-R11. IMPORTANT: Lubricate this
part through the Zerk grease fitting with an
automotive grease gun once a year for
preventive maintenance. Because grease cost a lot less
than any mechanical part(s)!
|
 A-1 Miller's Professional
Machine Services -
Repair Worn Hole in YOUR IH Cub Cadet "Original" Garden Tractor Clutch Arm to remove excessive free play in clutch/brake pedal. (The clutch arm fastens on the clutch/brake cross shaft and rotates slightly to disengage the drive clutch when the clutch/brake pedal is depressed.) FYI - The clutch arm is discontinued Cub Cadet part # IH-376276-R1. $30.00 for labor and installation of steel bushing/sleeve, plus return shipping & handling. |
 Extra Thick Flat Washer. Used
to apply pressure against rear pressure plate in IH Cub Cadet "Original"
garden tractor clutch assembly. Dimensions: 1-3/4" O.D. x approximately 5/32"
thickness x .626" center hole. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part #
IH-25556-R1.
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  New OEM-quality
bronze pilot bushing for all pre-1981 gear drive IH Cub Cadet garden tractors,
except "Quiet Line" models. Also replacement bushing for inside the IH Cub
Cadet "Original" garden tractor pulley/clutch disc. $5.00 each, plus
shipping & handling.
Bore center of IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor pulley/clutch disc
for installation of a high quality, high-speed sealed radial ball bearing.
(Intended mainly for competition pulling tractors with an engine that runs
at high RPM or wide open throttle.) A proven, ingenious and innovative
concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of
this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and
intelligence.) Rebuild IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor clutch assembly to OEM specs. $75.00-$100.00 labor only, extra charge for parts, plus return shipping & handling. Labor includes: Disassemble complete unit, clean and inspect all parts, resurface both pressure plates to remove warpage and resurface composite clutch facings to restore flatness. Parts includes: New bronze bushing in pulley/clutch disc and clutch release/throw-out bearing assembly (if needed), lubricate bushings and install new coiled/spiral pins. NOTE: If you're interested in having A-1 Miller's do the work for you, please send your clutch assembly when you're ready to the address listed below Ê . Package it securely so it won't get damaged or lost in shipping and please include a note in the package with your name, complete mailing address, phone number, email address (in case I have any questions) and a description of what you want done any other parts you may need. When the work is completed, I'll either call or email you an invoice with the total including shipping & handling. For payment, I accept cash (in person), money orders, cashier's checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover (your credit/debit card will be charged the same day the items are shipped), Western Union Money Transfer and MoneyGram Money Transfers. Or you can pay A-1 Miller's through PayPal (my PayPal account name is my email address). If sending a money order, please include a note with your name, complete mailing address, phone number and a description of what the payment is for. My mailing address and phone number are listed below Ê . And I will return your rebuilt clutch assembly to you as soon as the work is completed after I receive your payment. Please contact me if you're interested in any of the above È parts or services.
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Improving International Harvester's IH Cub Cadet "Original" Garden Tractor Clutch Assembly - [Top of Page]
The very first Cub Cadet garden
tractor manufactured is the International Cub Cadet, better known as the
Cub Cadet "Original". The reason this particular tractor
is called the "Original" is because they're the first Cub Cadet garden tractor
that International Harvester made. That's why most folks nowadays call it
the Cub Cadet "Original". IH didn't have a model number because they were
all built basically the same, and they all share the same parts. At the time,
Cub Cadet probably didn't think they were going to build more (and improved)
models in the years following.
On these tractors, the power is transferred from a small pulley, that is on the engine, onto a larger pulley that's on the driveshaft by use of a V-belt, which act like a gear reduction. It's approximately a 1.6:1 reduction in driveshaft rotation. This means engine torque is increased approximately 1.6 times the driveshaft because the clutch/driveshaft. This increases the power and torque of the original 6¼hp engine into a 10hp engine (6¼ x 1.6 = 10).
Replacing the Drive Belt in a Cub Cadet "Original" Garden Tractor -
To remove and install the drive belt on an IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor, the entire clutch assembly needs to be removed. After installing the belt and reinstalling the clutch assembly, the belt needs to be tightened by pulling down on the front brace of the clutch assembly (use a pry bar), and tighten the bolts on each side of the frame. This is much easier to do on a platform work table than on the floor or ground.
Convert the V-Belt Drive System to a Chain/Sprocket Drive -
The V-belt on the Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor can be converted for use with a chain and sprocket drive. This system works great because there'll no belt to slip or rob the engine of horsepower. To make this possible:
Repairing the Drive Clutch -
If the drive clutch holds well, but will not release at times, this means the sliding parts on the driveshaft are dry or the old grease have accumulated dirt and/or have "dried up," causing the parts to bind on the driveshaft.
How to Disassemble and Reassemble the IH Cub Cadet "Original" Garden Tractor Clutch Assembly -
But if the clutch slips, performing the following should cure the problem:
First, resurface the cast iron pressure plates on a large, flat disc or belt sander until they're perfectly flat. (Sanders are not just for woodworking.) If the clutch discs (which is part of the pulley) aren't worn excessively, they can be sanded flat as well to match the flatness of the pressure plates. Just remove the raised places, no more. But if the composite material is worn thin or if you have doubts that it will not grip well, then install new clutch facings on the pulley.
If the clutch composite material "peels off" or comes loose from the pulley, it can be reattached with a high strength adhesive, such as Krazy Glue, Super Glue, Gorilla Glue, etc. FYI - When storing an opened container of Super Glue or liquid threadlock material, store it upright and not laying flat. The [capped] tip will not dry out and clog when stored upright. As soon as the composite material is adhered on the pulley, place the clutch/pulley assembly between two thick flat steel plates to cover the entire composite material, then place them in a hydraulic press and apply light pressure to squeeze out any air bubbles that may get trapped so the composite material will have a stronger bond and lay flat. If a hydraulic press isn't available, then using one of the tires that's on a car or truck will place enough pressure, too. After the glue have dried, lightly sand the composite material on a large, flat disc or belt sander to ensure true flatness.
For even better clutch adhesion or "holding power," the OEM pressure spring can be replaced with a high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring. Be sure to drill the 3rd hole to 1/4" and install a heavy coiled/spiral pin, too! Install a new bronze bushing in the clutch release/throw-out bearing if it's worn. Then lubricate the clutch release/throw-out bearing through the factory-installed Zerk grease fitting. Under normal use, the clutch release/throw-out bearing needs to be lubricated once a year for preventive maintenance. Because grease cost a lot less than any mechanical part(s)!
And as far as I'm aware, new composite facings for the IH Cub Cadet "Original"
garden tractor clutch is not available from any source. But 6061 aluminum
can be used as clutch facings on the IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor
clutch pulley. The dimensions of the fabricated aluminum clutch facings are
as follows: 4-1/2" O.D. x 3" I.D. x 1/8" thick.
Fasten the aluminum to the pulley
with six (for strength) 10-32 UNF x 1/2" length flat head brass screws equally
spaced apart on each side. Offset the threaded holes in the pulley so the
threads of the screws on one side will not interfere with the screws on the
other side. Countersink the heads of the screws into the aluminum with the
heads slightly below the surface of the aluminum. Make sure the aluminum
is perfectly flat before installing it on the pulley, too. And of course,
when using aluminum as clutch material, a stiffer-than-stock pressure spring,
such as the high pressure red (800± lb.) or
yellow (1,150± lb.) spring, will be required to prevent clutch slippage.
Click
Here for Detailed Illustrated Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back
and Self-Propelled Garden Tractor Pulling Sled (Available
Soon)
To place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or
for customer service assistance, and FREE honest and accurate technical support,
please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank
Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Call in your order or email us a list parts you need.
Payment Options. Please call Monday-Friday,
9am to 5pm, Central time zone, except holidays. If no answer, please try
again later. (When speaking with Brian on the phone, please be patient
and understanding because I stutter.)
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone, with an appointment on weekends, except holidays. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally purchase parts, or drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine parts, entire engine, transmission, transaxle, entire garden tractor, etc. for repairing and/or rebuilding. Please call, text or email me before coming so I'll be at my shop waiting for your arrival. When you visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with the owner for the best customer service. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. "The road to a [trusted] friend's house (or shop) is never long." Don't sacrifice quality workmanship for distance. [Return To Previous Paragraph, Section or Website]
By the way - As business is booming, we're going to relocate our business later this year at 12091 N. Rt. B, Hallsville, MO 65255 with a bigger, better, fully insulated, heated and air-conditioned building/shop (shouse) so we can provide many more high quality parts and professional services, and hire more help to have our customer's parts orders fulfilled sooner, parts repairs and engine rebuilds performed promptly without delay. We will also provide pick up and delivery service and perform professional repairs for various small engines and lawn & garden equipment! We're also thinking of building competitive garden pulling tractors, and pull-back and self-propelled garden tractor pulling sleds to offer for sale. If you want, ask to be put on our waiting list and we'll contact you when the time comes. Photos during construction of our new building/shop are posted here!
To place an order, please call the number listed below Ê or send an email with your name, complete and correct postal address and phone number and so I can figure the total with shipping cost and USPS Tracking. For payment options for parts ordered or services performed, or to make a donation to my websites, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge), Western Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram Money Transfers. (If a part for a specific purpose is special ordered, your debit/credit card may be charged for the full amount or as a deposit right after your order is placed; please do not send your debit/credit card information in email!) Or you can pay A-1 Miller's through PayPal. (My PayPal account name is my email address. And be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment is for.) If sending a money order, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone number and a description of what the payment is for. My mailing address and phone number are below Ê . I'll make a note of your order, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send the parts to you as soon as I have everything in stock after I receive your payment.
IMPORTANT - When sending your part(s) to A-1 Miller's for rebuilding or repair, package everything securely so the item(s) won't get damaged in shipping and please include a note in the box with your name, mailing address, phone number (in case I have any questions) and a description of what you want done. When shipping heavy parts, it's best to put a slightly smaller box inside a larger box, to double the strength and integrity of the package. Because the clumsy "gorillas" or incompetent and uncaring workers that work for certain delivery services mishandle the heavy packages and don't care. And when the work is completed, I'll either call or email you an invoice with the total including shipping & handling.
Payment Options and We Ship to Canada and
Worldwide 
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent
by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged
item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service
Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal
Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S.
territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground
or equivalent services. We try to keep our shipping cost to customers within
reason. Therefore, we don't ship our products in a fancy-looking package
with our company name and/or logo on it because most customers will just
toss it in the trash after they remove the contents. And being there is no
USPS tracking number outside the US, all I can do is make sure I write your
address correctly on the customs form and on your package.
My websites are not set up to process orders and accept payments. Therefore, for payment options, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total amount for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge), Western Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram Money Transfers. If paying with a credit/debit card, please call me at either number above. To make a payment to me through PayPal, please click this link: https://www.paypal.me/PullingTractor. Or to make a payment to me (pullingtractor@aol.com) in the US through the Venmo app, please click this link: venmo.com. Or use Cash App to make a payment to me (pullingtractor@aol.com). And be sure to mention in PayPal, Venmo or Cash App a description of what the payment is for with your full name, postal address, phone number and email address. If sending a money order or cashier's check, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete mailing address, phone number, email address and a description of what the payment is for. I'll make a note of your order when I have all your information, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send everything on your list to you as soon as I have the parts in stock after I receive your payment.
à Return to Main Pulling Tips Page | Return To Previous Page | Various Vendors Related to Tractor Pulling | Top of Page
Copyright © 1996-Present. This website created, designed and maintained by Brian Miller.
A-1 Miller's Professional
Rebuild/Repair Service for Peerless (or Other Make) Right Angle Gearbox for
the Mower Deck or Cub Cadet belt-drive garden tractor models 482, 580, 582
Special, 1100, 1204 and 1604 with the Peerless model 2300 transaxle.
We also rebuild/repair most other makes and models of right angle gearboxes
used in garden tractors, installed on mower decks and used elsewhere, as
long as replacement parts are available. Repair price varies depending on
which parts needs to be replaced and/or repaired. $100.00 - $350.00+ for
parts and labor. Extra charge for return shipping & handling.
Driveshafts for IH- and MTD-built
Cub Cadet Clutch Drive Garden Tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102,
104, 106, 108, 122, 124, 126, 128, 580, 582, 800, 1000, 1050, 1200, 1604,
1606 and 1806, including models 1250, 1450 and 1650 with a hydrostatic disconnect
attachment. NOTE: These driveshafts are made to
order. When ordering, please specify model of Cub Cadet and possibly exact
length and exactly where the coiled/spiral pin holes needs to be drilled.
Please indicate if you want the 3rd hole drilled for the main pressure spring
or if you are going to use a 
Driveshafts for IH Cub Cadet
Hydrostatic Drive Garden Tractor models 105, 107, 109, 123, 125, 127, 129,
147, 109, 129, 149 and 169. NOTE: These driveshafts, with the OEM factory
designed machined-down 3/8" diameter support end, are originally used with
Cub Cadet coupler arm with the 25/64" center hole (
Driveshafts for IH Cub Cadet
Hydrostatic Drive Garden Tractor models 1250, 1450 and 1650.
Driveshafts for Cub Cadet
Garden Tractor models 482, 580, 582 Special, 1100, 1204, 1604 1606 and 1806.
(Belt Drive; Engine to Right Angle Gearbox w/Peerless model 2300
transaxle.) 
Driveshafts for MTD-built
Cub Cadet Hydrostatic Drive Garden Tractor models 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784,
882, 982, 1210, 1211, 1282, 1512, 1541, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1810, 1811, 1812
and 1860.
Steel Angled Driveshaft Support
Brace for use with Pillow Block Bearing listed above. For use in all models
of IH- and MTD-built Cub Cadet competition garden pulling tractors. Made
of 1/8" thickness x 2-1/2" width angled steel with holes drilled for pillow
block bearing. When securely fastened or welded to Cub Cadet frame, this
brace will not crack or break, even under severe vibration. NOTE: Before
fastening or welding this brace between the Cub Cadet garden tractor frame
rails, first install pillow block bearing w/housing on assembled driveshaft,
connect driveshaft to transaxle and engine, tighten engine mounting bolts
to tractor frame, then fasten this angle brace to pillow block bearing. This
will guarantee the pillow block bearing and brace is in perfect alignment
and centered with the driveshaft. Otherwise, the driveshaft will be noisy.
Then permanently weld angle brace to tractor frame rails. See correct
installation below. Ê An ingenious
and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat
products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity
and intelligence.) 
These custom-made solid motor mounts replaces deteriorated
OEM "ISO" rubber engine mounts, which is usually associated with a damaged
"flexible" 3-pin clutch drive plate and damaged clutch components. They are
also a must for competition pulling! Fits IH Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" garden
tractor models 482, 800, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282,
1340, 1450 and 1650. If the engine in your tractor is mounted on angled cradles
with rubber mounts between the cradles and tractor frame, then these are
what your tractor need.
Rectangular Flange with Pressed-In
Self-Aligning Spherical Bronze Pilot Bushing. Fits Cub Cadet "Quiet Line"
Reinforced Rubber Driveshaft
Flex Coupler Disc. Designed specifically for IH Cub Cadet "Original"
garden tractor, and Cub Cadet hydrostatic drive garden tractor models 105,
107, 109, 123, 125, 127, 129, 147, 149 and 169. Cannot be used on the Cub
Cadet "Quiet Line" garden tractor models due to the small center hole. Very
tough, reinforced rubber/weaved composite material. Allows for out-of-alignment
rotation of driveshaft to prevent damage to hydrostatic pump. Can also be
used in a steering shaft setup of a custom-built mini-rod pulling tractor
as a type of U-joint with a maximum 35º rotational angle with coupler
arm(s) listed above. 13/32" bolt holes spaced 3" apart. OEM Cub Cadet part
# IH-376257-R3. $35.85 each, plus shipping & handling.
Professionally Resurface and
True-Up YOUR OEM Cub Cadet garden tractor clutch pressure plates in my metal
lathe until they are perfectly flat with a smooth, slick surface so new clutch
friction disc will adhere 100% to prevent slippage; true-up outer edge to
prevent wobble; and ground out worn slot in rear hub so clutch disc will
easily release. $30.00 labor for two pressure plates, plus return
shipping & handling.
High quality aftermarket. Long
lasting premium belt. 1/2" wide x 33" length. Replaces Cub Cadet part # 954-3000.
$10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High quality aftermarket composite
material 6" O.D. clutch disc for all models of Cub Cadet clutch drive garden
tractors. Made of very tough and long-lasting material suitable for heavy
duty yard and garden use or competition pulling tractors. Comes with 6 drive
holes; can be used with an OEM or aftermarket 3- or 6-pin/stud drive plate.
Replaces Cub Cadet part # 961-3002. $40.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
Clutch Adjustment/Release Rod.
Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106,
122, 124 and 126. Washer welded on rod; can be used for general yard and
garden work or competition pulling
Clutch Adjustment/Release Rods.
Each fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 86, 108, 128, 800, 1000 and 1200
(models 800, 1000 and 1200 with caliper/axle brakes.) Washer welded on rod;
can be used for general yard and garden work or competition
pulling
Clutch Adjustment/Release Rod.
Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 580, 582, 1050, 1535, 1604, 1606 and
1806. Washer welded on rod; can be used for general yard and garden work
or competition pulling
Clutch Release/Throw-Out Bearing
for IH Cub Cadet wide frame/solid mounted engine garden tractor models 86,
108 and 128. Precision, high-speed sealed collar bearing w/short pressed-in
steel sleeve. This larger diameter bearing covers more area in the wide frame
Lubricating Sleeve with
Clutch Release/Throw-Out Bearings
for Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" ISO-mounted engine garden tractor models 800,
1000, 1200, and models 580, 582, 1050, 1535, 1604, 1606 and 1806. Also fits
Cub Cadet garden tractor models 1250, 1450 and 1650 with hydrostatic disconnect
attachment. Bearing dimensions: .780" I.D. x 1.850" O.D. x .550" height.
This larger diameter bearing covers more area in the wide and spread frame
Steel Flat Washer for OEM, 800
lb. or 1,150 lb. clutch pressure springs listed above. Prevents end of spring
from possibly uncoiling around 3rd coiled/spiral pin. Not required when spring
is used with 3/4" steel spacer or 