How
to Rebuild and Improve the Cub Cadet Drive Clutch Assembly
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On the direct-drive Cub Cadet, power from the engine is through the clutch and driveshaft assembly to the transaxle and to the rear tires. If the clutch is severely worn or if stock (OEM) parts may slip and little power or torque will be transferred, especially when using the tractor for competition pulling (especially with a big engine in a fast gear), gardening or to haul heavy loads. An engine in a competition pulling tractor that's built to the max or runs at high RPM or at wide open throttle produces a lot more torque than what the engineers at Cub Cadet originally anticipated for the driveline to handle. Therefore, the clutch assembly is the weak point (and the one-piece carrier and coarse spline axles), and will need to be reinforced and built up for strength for durability and to prevent slippage. Remember: towards the end of the track, if the tires don't spin or the engine bogs down, then the clutch will slip or something elsewhere in the driveline will possibly twist or break.
Types of Clutch Assemblies -
An ordinary clutch assembly for general lawn and garden use consist of a mild steel driveshaft, fiber clutch disc and a light-weight pressure spring. But a clutch assembly for competition pulling and/or heavy lawn and garden use consist of a heavy duty 3- or 6-pin drive plate, either a stress-proof steel or stainless steel driveshaft, either a single- or double- OEM Cub Cadet or aftermarket fiber clutch disc, or a single aluminum clutch disc (depending on which class the tractor pulls in), and definitely a much stiffer pressure spring for placing a heavier load on the clutch disc. Also, the pressure plates will definitely need to be resurfaced until perfectly flat and trued-up in a small metal lathe to ensure that the pressure plates will adhere to the clutch disc to prevent slippage. Because new OEM Cub Cadet pressure plates are made of stamped steel and are not machined whatsoever. This means they are not perfectly flat and they wobble from the factory. If used pressure plates have not been resurfaced before, then chances are, they'll still be thick enough after being resurfaced. Always remove the minimal amount of metal to retain maximum thickness so they will not warp when hot. (IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable using a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist with a lathe.) The same happens to automotive flywheels and pressure plates as the clutch disc wears. They need to be resurfaced too, when installing a new clutch disc. And the heavier or stronger the clutch assembly is, the more it will cost.
(Updated 7/18/18) By the way - if the rotating clutch parts are precision balanced, installed and adjusted correctly, the OEM Cub Cadet or aftermarket double fiber clutch disc setup will last a long time, a lot longer than the aftermarket 3 puck metallic clutch disc. Most double fiber clutch disc setups last 20+ years under hard pulling every year before needing servicing or adjusting. No joke. Unlike the double fiber clutch disc setup, which requires that either the engine be moved forward 3/8" in the tractor or the clutch release lever hanger bracket be moved rearward 3/8" (to make room for the extra clutch disc [1/4" thickness] and center steel drive plate [1/8" thickness]), most pullers prefer to use the 3 puck metallic clutch disc because no modifications needs to be made to the engine mounting holes or the clutch release lever hanger bracket.
Cub Cadet made four different 3-pin clutch drive plates. The bolt-circle pattern for the three clutch disc drive pins/partially threaded studs and four mounting holes are the same for all drive plates below.
The first clutch drive plate
is designed for the IH-built narrow- and wide-frame Cub Cadet models 70,
71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124, 126, 86, 108 and 128 with a
solid-mounted engine. It's made of flat, solid/non-flexible, 1/8" thickness
steel, with a bronze bushing (pilot bearing) pressed in the center to support
the driveshaft, and has spiral pins to drive the
clutch disc. This type of drive plate can also be used on the "Quiet Line"
ISO-mounted tractors (below Ê) as long
as solid motor mounts are installed. It's
Cub Cadet part # IH-384652-R12.
Depending on the class your tractor is going to pull in and engine size/modifications, there are many variations in which clutch/driveshaft design and carrier/axles to use. Listed are the weakest to the strongest:
Using Quality Driveshaft Material Is Important!
Most driveshafts are likely to
break at the second spiral/roll pin hole, just in front of the
clutch release/throw-out bearing. Because
that's where the most vibration usually occurs. They also break just behind
the pressure spring, in front of the
pillow block bearing, due to temporary
frame twisting (narrow frames) when pulling. If this happens, it's best to
install a split clamping/locking collar.
What mainly makes the driveshaft break at 4,000+ RPM is either...
If quality driveshaft material is used, and if the rotating parts are precision balanced and if a carrier bearing is also installed (above 4,000 RPM. The factory setting of maximum RPM for virtually all small gas engines, including all of Kohler engines is 3,600), the driveshaft could possibly last the life of the tractor. Even when used in high-performance conditions.
Remember, in the direct-drive Cub Cadet, the entire clutch/driveshaft assembly rotates the same speed as the engine. For reliability in a highly modified tractor that turns well above 4,000 RPM, the driveshaft must be made of quality, solid hardened steel that can resist torsional twist. Such as 1144 stress-proof steel, heat-treated 4140 chrome-moly steel or 304 alloy stainless steel.
Advertisement:
Professionally Rebuilt Drive Clutch Assemblies for IH- and MTD-Built Cub Cadet Garden Tractors. Clutch assemblies available for narrow and wide, spread frame Cub Cadet garden tractors for general yard and garden use. Parts include: New stress proof steel driveshaft, new spiral pins, new aftermarket fiber clutch disc, new aftermarket throw-out bearing, reconditioned release lever, new main pressure spring, new teasing spring and thrust washer, and both pressure plates resurfaced and trued-up. Drive plate shown in pictures above not included with clutch assembly. When ordering, please state model number of Cub Cadet. Core trade-in must be in rebuildable condition with very few missing or damaged parts. *The price to build or rebuild your clutch assembly depends on which parts can be reused and which new parts are installed, and the amount of machining is required. Rebuilt Drive Clutch Assemblies for Narrow Frame Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124 and 126. Priced full length (without creeper drive) or short length (with creeper drive unit.)
Rebuilt Drive Clutch Assemblies for Wide Frame Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Models 80, 108 and 128. Priced full length (without creeper drive) or short length (with creeper drive unit.)
Rebuilt Drive Clutch Assemblies for Wide Frame Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Models 800, 1000 and 1200. Priced full length (without creeper drive) or short length (with creeper drive unit.)
Rebuilt Drive Clutch Assemblies for Spread Frame Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Models 580, 582, 1050, 1250, 1450, 1650 (models with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment), 1604, 1606 and 1806. Priced full length (without creeper drive) or short length (with creeper drive unit.)
If you would
like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website,
and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance and support,
please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank
Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
|
 OEM
Cub Cadet 3-pin Solid Clutch Drive Plate. Designed for
IH-built Cub Cadet narrow- and wide-frame models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100,
102, 104, 108, 122, 124, 126 and 128 with the solid-mounted engine. These
models have the engine fastened directly to the frame with no rubber motor
mounts. If you want to use this type of drive plate in a "Quiet Line" model
800, 1000 or 1200 with the ISO-mounted engine, then a set of A-1 Miller's
solid motor mounts must also be installed,
making the clutch/driveshaft assembly rigid throughout so less wear will
occur to the clutch assembly. NOTE: Before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch
assembly in the tractor, apply lubricating grease to inside the pilot bushing
and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if it's dry, chances are,
the driveshaft will not release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing
and driveshaft.
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 OEM Cub Cadet 3-pin
Flexible Clutch Drive Plate. Designed for IH-built Cub Cadet "Quiet
Line" models 800, 1000 and 1200, including models 1250, 1450 and 1650 with
a hydrostatic disconnect attachment. All of these models have the engine
mounted on rails with ISO rubber mounts. If this drive plate keeps breaking
after just a few years, then either a set of new ISO rubber mounts will need
to be installed, or a set of A-1 Miller's solid
motor mounts and solid clutch drive plate (above) can be installed, making
the clutch/driveshaft assembly rigid throughout to prevent breakage and so
less wear will occur to the clutch assembly. NOTE: Before reinstalling
the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply lubricating grease to
inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if
it's dry, chances are, the driveshaft will not release, it can bind up and
wear both the bushing and driveshaft.
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  (Added 3/17/20) OEM Cub Cadet Engine Rubber ISO-Mount Kit.
Replace deteriorated rubber ISO-mounts to lessen chances of clutch drive
plate breakage and so less wear will occur to the clutch assembly. Designed
for IH-built Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" models 800, 1000 and 1200, including
models 1250, 1450 and 1650 with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment. All
of these models have the engine mounted on rails with ISO rubber mounts.
These rubber mounts can also be adapted for use on many other makes and models
of small engine equipment to reduce engine vibration throughout the frame.
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 Weld the collars on your
OEM IH Cub Cadet drive plate to prevent plate from bending under strain.
An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else
advertise this. 
NOTE: Before installing the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply lubricating grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if it's dry, chances are, the driveshaft will not release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing and driveshaft. |
 Repair your OEM Cub Cadet
3-pin clutch drive plate when the original drive pin collar(s) are broken
off.
NOTE: Before installing the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply lubricating grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if it's dry, chances are, the driveshaft will not release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing and driveshaft.
NOTE: Adding three additional clutch drive studs is something that must be performed with precision machining. To install three additional clutch drive studs in the OEM clutch drive plate and have them perfectly aligned with the OEM drive pins and the three extra holes in the clutch disc, and to prevent the pins from being out of balance (out of circle) and to prevent wobble, the holes in the plate (and clutch disc) will need to be drilled using a Super Spacer or Rotary Table that's fastened to the table of a milling machine. Each hole must be drilled precisely at 2.5625" out from dead center and spaced exactly at 90º from the original drive pins. This will allow the 3 extra drive studs (and holes in clutch disc) to be positioned in exact alignment with the OEM pins. Just like the wheel studs on an automobile. If you want, I can professionally install three extra drive studs in your clutch drive plate and drill three extra matching holes in your clutch disc for $45.00 labor, which includes the 3 drive studs, plus return shipping. I will need your clutch drive plate and clutch disc, too. |
 Repair work - Convert your
OEM 3-pin clutch drive plate into a 6-pin, install 3 hardened steel studs,
lock washers, and true-up plate in metal lathe. I will need your clutch drive
plate & clutch disc, too. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian
Miller, because nobody else advertise this service.
NOTE: Adding three additional clutch drive studs is something that must be performed with precision machining. To install three additional clutch drive studs in the OEM clutch drive plate and have them perfectly aligned with the OEM drive pins and the three extra holes in the clutch disc, and to prevent the pins from being out of balance (out of circle) and to prevent wobble, the holes in the plate (and clutch disc) will need to be drilled using a Super Spacer or Rotary Table that's fastened to the table of a milling machine. Each hole must be drilled precisely at 2.5625" out from dead center and spaced exactly at 90º from the original drive pins. This will allow the 3 extra drive studs (and holes in clutch disc) to be positioned in exact alignment with the OEM pins. Just like the wheel studs on an automobile. If you want, I can professionally install three extra drive studs in your clutch drive plate and drill three extra matching holes in your clutch disc for $45.00 labor, which includes the 3 drive studs, plus return shipping. I will need your clutch drive plate and clutch disc, too. |
 Convert your OEM MTD Cub
Cadet clutch drive plate from 3-stud to 6-pin. True-up plate in metal lathe
and install 3 additional hardened steel studs, lock washers and nuts. NOTE:
Clutch disc must be precision-drilled with 3 extra holes to accept the 3
additional drive studs. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian
Miller, because nobody else advertise this service.
NOTE: Adding three additional clutch drive studs is something that must be performed with precision machining. To install three additional clutch drive studs in the OEM clutch drive plate and have them perfectly aligned with the OEM drive pins and the three extra holes in the clutch disc, and to prevent the pins from being out of balance (out of circle) and to prevent wobble, the holes in the plate (and clutch disc) will need to be drilled using a Super Spacer or Rotary Table that's fastened to the table of a milling machine. Each hole must be drilled precisely at 2.5625" out from dead center and spaced exactly at 90º from the original drive pins. This will allow the 3 extra drive studs (and holes in clutch disc) to be positioned in exact alignment with the OEM pins. Just like the wheel studs on an automobile. If you want, I can professionally install three extra drive studs in your clutch drive plate and drill three extra matching holes in your clutch disc for $45.00 labor, which includes the 3 drive studs, plus return shipping. I will need your clutch drive plate and clutch disc, too. |
 Repair pilot bushing hole
in drive plate that's worn too big for OEM pilot bushing. $25.00 parts
and labor, plus return shipping. An ingenious and innovative concept by
Brian Miller. |
 Heavy Duty, All Steel
Clutch Drive Plates!
Available with 3 or 6 clutch drive pins. Plate made of 3/16" thickness steel.
Heavy duty, 1/3 thicker and 80% stronger than OEM drive plates; recommended
for competition pulling tractors running unlimited RPM using a single or
a double-disc clutch setup. These are a direct replacement for all Cub Cadet
narrow frames, and models 86, 108 and 128 wide frames. This heavy duty drive
plate will work in the MTD-built Cub Cadets too, because the MTD drive plate
is dished and the IH-made drive plate is flat, but it has the raised collars,
making each have the same height. And when used in Cub Cadet models 800,
1000 or 1200, solid motor mounts must be
installed also. Precision made, high quality drive plates come with a new
bronze pilot bushing and hardened steel clutch drive pins. Weighs under 2
lbs.
NOTE: Before installing the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply lubricating grease inside the pilot bushing and on the front of the driveshaft. Because if it's dry, the driveshaft will not release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing and driveshaft. And when using the 6-pin drive plate, three additional holes must be drilled in the clutch disc(s) to match the location of the six drive studs. |
 Heavy Duty, All Steel
PTO-Driven Clutch Drive Plate for when the engine is reversed in a Cub
Cadet! An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller.
Fabricated 3 or 6 drive studs, 3/16" plate thickness. Heavy duty, 1/3 thicker and 80% stronger than OEM; recommended for competition pulling tractors running unlimited RPM using a single or a double-disc clutch setup. When ordering, please specify the diameter for the PTO shaft on the engine. Weighs about 3 lbs.
NOTE: Three additional holes must be drilled in the clutch discs to match the location of the six drive studs. These precision made, high quality drive plates come with a new bronze pilot bushing (you install) and hardened steel drive studs. And a 3/4" hole MUST be drilled into end of crankshaft for pilot bushing. And before installing the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply lubricating grease inside the pilot bushing and on the front of the driveshaft. Because if it's dry, the driveshaft will not release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing and driveshaft. And when using the 6-pin drive plate, three additional holes must be drilled in the clutch disc(s) to match the location of the six drive studs. |
 High Quality Replicated
Driveshafts for IH Cub Cadet "Original" Garden Tractor. Available in
1144 Stress Proof steel only. Spiral pins sold
separately. (Scroll down). Please specify with or without creeper
drive.
Spiral Pins for IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor -
Spiral Pins for all other models of Cub Cadet garden tractors -
Spiral Pins for OEM Cub Cadet 3-pin clutch drive plate and [narrow frame Cub Cadet] drag link steering arm. Dimensions: 3/8" diameter x 1-1/2" length. NOTE: The holes in the drag link arm and spindle may need to be drilled (enlarged) exactly to 3/8" (.375") for this pin to fit. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
Use quality coiled/spiral pins for driveshafts to prevent the possibility
of pin breakage. Spiral pins are much stronger than the spring-type or C-shaped
spiral/roll pins. And all Cub Cadet driveshafts require the spiral roll-pins.
Also, use a quality-made 1/4" roll-pin punch tool to remove the roll-pins.
And whenever a roll-pin is removed, one end will probably get "mushroomed"
or flared out. Making reinstallation almost impossible. So before reinstalling
reusable roll-pins, ground the burr off the end of it, and ground a chamfer
on the end (grind to a dull point) to make the installation easier. (Remember
to wear safety glasses!)
Removing Spiral Pins -
Personally, I use 2 lb. hammer and a quality-made 1/4" spiral/roll pin punch to drive the pins out of the driveshaft and rear rigid tubular coupler. I've had some stubborn pins before, but they've always drove out with determination, and no damage to anything (except to the pin itself). Spiral pins can't be drilled out either because they're just as hard as a high quality drill bit. Or if the spiral pin is really stubborn, it can be heated with an oxy-acetylene torch. This will cause the spring-action or outward expansion of the pin to weaken and collapse, then it can be driven out much easier. Be careful not to melt the pin with the torch! Doing this could make it much more difficult to remove.
When to Use a Split Clamping/Locking Collar on the Driveshaft - (Updated 11/2/16)
The only reason a split
clamping/locking collar is needed behind the pressure
spring is for competition pulling and when the engine turns at high RPMs
or at wide open throttle. When a center support
pillow block bearing and brace (that's welded to the inside of the tractor
frame) is used to stabilize the driveshaft and prevent wobble at high RPMs.
The collar lessens the chance of driveshaft breakage when a hole is drilled
for the 3rd spiral/roll pin, and when or if the driveshaft flexes under pulling
strain. If a stock engine will never turn above 4,000 RPM, then a split
clamping/locking collar shouldn't be needed on the driveshaft because the
driveshaft will not wobble as much. On a stock tractor with a 4,000±
RPM engine, instead of using a clamping/locking collar, install a thick washer
in place of the collar, with a long steel tube on the driveshaft extending
from the washer butted against the rear driveshaft coupler. A 3rd spiral/roll
pin hole will not be required, too.
The split clamping/locking collar can also be used on front of the IH Cub Cadet "Original" driveshaft to prevent driveshaft from moving rearward when clutch pedal is depressed.
Moreover, when using a stainless steel driveshaft, due to the "slickness" and hardness of the metal, just one split clamping/locking collar may slip rearward when the clutch pedal is fully depressed. Sometimes even using two collars will slip also. So to prevent the collar(s) from slipping, install flat washers behind the collar and in front of the center support pillow block bearing and brace so the pressure will be placed against the bearing, and the bearing will hold the collar in place. And a single split clamping/locking collar will grip mild or 1144 stress proof steel with no problems. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]
Advertisement:
If you would
like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website,
and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance and support,
please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank
Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
 Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.
When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly
with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to
the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we
can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
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5/8" i.d. Split clamping/locking
collars. With the drilled 3rd spiral pin hole not present in the driveshaft,
this part stiffens the driveshaft in the middle 100%, and it helps prevent
driveshaft breakage at 4,000 RPM (without a center support pillow block bearing
and brace installed), and when used with a center support pillow block bearing
and brace, this prevents the driveshaft from "wobbling around", which could
break at higher RPMs or at wide open throttle. Position collar at 9-1/4"
from front of driveshaft. This will compress the main pressure spring to
4-1/2" once installed and clutch assembly is reassembled (with the clutch/brake
pedal not fully depressed). Can also be used on front of the IH Cub Cadet
"Original" driveshaft to prevent driveshaft from moving rearward when clutch
pedal is depressed. Has two Allen head screws that holds the clamp together
and provide a very tight uniform 360° grip around the driveshaft. NOTE:
With a stainless steel driveshaft, it's best to use two split clamping/locking
collars or a pillow block bearing with an eccentric locking collar because
just one split collar might slip on the "slick" and hardened surface of stainless
steel.
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 Driveshaft
Center Support Pillow Block with self-aligning 5/8" ball bearing and
high quality cast iron housing. Center to center of mounting holes: 3-3/4".
Use with support brace below Ê.
IMPORTANT! Required only for competition Cub Cadet competition
pulling tractors with an engine that run at high RPM or at
wide
open throttle to prevent driveshaft wobble and possible breakage. Install
just behind main pressure spring on driveshaft to stabilize driveshaft. See
pictures of correct installation below.
Ê
[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
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Do this only if the front
axle has been moved forward -
On the narrow frame Cub Cadets, if the front axle has been
moved forward, reinforce the frame rails where the engine mounting holes
are to reduce normal high-RPM engine vibration travel that could lead to
both frame and driveshaft breakage. To do so, stiffen the frame rails where
the engine mounting bolt holes are by welding two 1/4" thick steel plates
under the frame. Longer engine mounting bolts must be used, too. The reason
for this is because when the front axle center support is moved, the remaining
frame material isn't thick enough to hold up to the engine vibration.
For the spread frame models with the ISO (rubber) motor mounts, replace the rubber mounts with a set of our solid steel motor mounts or remove the brackets and fabricate a minimum 1/4" thick plate steel, set it at the right height and weld it to the frame. But the engine mounting holes and oil drain plug hole must be properly located (centered) and drilled in the plate first. This is much easier to do on a platform work table. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]
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How to Remove the Driveshaft/Clutch Assembly from a Cub Cadet: (This is much easier to do on a platform work table.)
The spiral pin in the input
shaft on the transaxle of a narrow frame Cub Cadet garden tractor can be
very difficult to remove and somewhat difficult to access from underneath.
Therefore, it's recommended that a 1" hole should be drilled through the
top of a short tunnel cover (center section of the tractor frame), or through
the side of a tall tunnel cover in direct alignment with the spiral pin,
then use a long 1/4" roll pin punch and medium size hammer to drive the pin
from the coupler. Don't attempt to drill-out the spiral pin. They're just
as hard as a high quality drill bit. After the pin is removed and the clutch
assembly is rebuilt, upon reinstallation in the tractor, use a socket in
the drilled hole to fasten a hardened steel 1/4" diameter
[grade 8 or Allen head] bolt in the coupler.
For cosmetic purpose, hide the
drilled hole with a 1" plastic or metal hole plug. Just push the plug in
the hole for a nice distinctive look. And sometimes when driving out
the spiral pin, the pounding will bend the input shaft in the transaxle.
If this happens, the input shaft will need to be straightened (and hope it
doesn't break later because the metal has been weakened) or a good used input
shaft will need to be installed. This is why it's highly recommended that
a hardened steel 1/4" bolt/lock nut be used in the coupler in place of the
spiral pin because if the driveshaft ever needs to be removed again, removing
a bolt/lock nut would be a lot easier than driving out a stubborn spiral
pin. Plus, it'll be easier on your nerves and on the input shaft.
How to Disassemble the Clutch Components from the Driveshaft -
To disassemble the clutch components from the driveshaft, first place the front pressure plate hub on slightly open jaws of a bench vise, and use a quality-made 1/4" spiral/roll pin punch and a medium size hammer to drive out the spiral pin. Then the pressure plates, clutch disc clutch release/throw-out bearing and pressure spring should all slide off the driveshaft.
Fasten the Coupler Arms Together To Make One Rigid Driveshaft Coupler -
With
solid motor mounts installed in a Cub Cadet
that originally came with an ISO-mounted engine, the driveshaft will not
be able to "move" with the engine and there'll be less chance of clutch parts
prematurely wearing or breaking. The flexible rubber disc(s) at the end of
the driveshaft will be useless too, and could deteriorate over time. So instead
of replacing the OEM coupler arms with a machined rigid tubular coupler,
make the coupler arms rigid by removing the flexible rubber disc(s) and install
a couple of 3/8" thickness spacers for a single disc, and a couple of 3/4"
thickness spacers for double fiber clutch discs, and fasten the arms together
with a couple of 3/8" diameter hardened steel bolts. (Large nuts are used
as spacers in the picture to the right.) By the way - one rubber flex disc
is 3/8" thick. This setup is just as strong as using a rigid tubular coupler,
and it cost a lot less.
If the outer parts of the
two arms don't come together or meet when the bolts are tightened (be careful
not to tighten the bolts too tight if the arms don't meet, they could break),
a couple of thin flat washers may need to be added as shims next to the spacers.
And before fastening the arms together with the spacers, first slide the
arms on the driveshaft so they'll be in perfect alignment with each other,
and tighten the bolts. See the picture to the right. Also, if you want, leave
out the 5/8" diameter [swivel/spacer] steel ball. It'll serve no purpose
when using solid motor mounts and when making
the coupler arms rigid.
FYI - Many pullers convert the hydrostatic drive Cub Cadet models 109, 129, 149 and 169 (wide frames, solid mounted engine) and models 1250, 1450 and 1650 (wide frames, ISO-mounted engine) into a clutch-drive tractor. All that's needed are the clutch assembly with the hanger bracket for the release lever and a complete transaxle out of a model 86, 108, 128 (wide frames, solid mounted engine) or models 800, 1000 or 1200 (wide frames, ISO-mounted engine) gear drive Cub Cadet. A set of my solid motor mounts will be needed also if the tractor originally has the ISO rubber motor mounts. The braking mechanism out of a wide frame Cub Cadet will also be needed.
Do not fasten the two coupler
arms directly together on the IH Cub Cadet "Original" because the driveshaft
needs to move up or down to tighten the drive belt with the engine. Leave
the flexible rubber disc in place, even for pulling competition. Or a 5/8"
i.d. universal joint can be installed instead.
A rigid tubular rear driveshaft
coupler with a worn center can be repaired by boring out the center and
installing a press-fit steel sleeve. Then ream the sleeve to .626" for a
slip-fit on the driveshaft. Then the holes
for the spiral pins can be drilled. The boring and reaming process should
be performed on a milling machine with a self-centering 3-jaw super spacer
or in a metal lathe with a self-centering 3-jaw chuck.
(IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable using
a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist with
a lathe.)
Installing a spiral pin in the
rear of the driveshaft to connect the coupler to the input shaft on the transaxle
of a Cub Cadet can be very difficult. To make it much easier, simply use
a 1/4" grade 8 bolt instead. For strength, the shank (unthreaded part) of
the bolt needs to have full contact with the coupler and driveshaft. And
as long as the driveshaft is in correct alignment with the centerline of
the crankshaft and transaxle input shaft, with the spiral pins holes in-line
with each other, and not offset 90°, at around 4,000 RPM, this should
not cause the driveshaft to "shake around" or vibrate whatsoever. At high
RPM or at
wide
open throttle, a center support pillow
block bearing and brace should be used midway on the driveshaft.
For pulling applications, rubber motor mounts (and the flexible coupler at the rear of the driveshaft) absorbs valuable horsepower, which must be transferred to the rear tires for full power to the track. The rubber motor mounts will also cause the engine to vibrate excessively at high RPM or at wide open throttle. Plus, with normal use of the tractor, rubber motor mounts could cause the flexible 3-pin drive plate and/or the driveshaft to eventually break. If a tractor that has rubber motor mounts and a flexible coupler is going to be used for competition pulling, definitely install some metal motor mounts.
First of all, when using a milling machine, use a spotting drill bit, or use a center punch or transfer punch to locate exactly where the hole needs to be drilled to prevent the drill bit from "skating" on the surface. This will position and guide the drill bit to bore EXACTLY where the hole needs to be drilled. And due to the natural expansion of a roll, coiled or spiral pin, ALWAYS drill the hole with a drill bit that's one size smaller than the actual size for the roll, coiled or spiral pin's size, to allow for sufficient compression of the pin when installed in the hole. For example: for a 1/4" roll, coiled or spiral pin, initially drill the hole with a 15/64" drill bit (one size smaller than the 1/4" drill bit), then finish enlarging the same hole with a 1/4" drill bit. Doing this will guarantee the hole will be EXACTLY 1/4" in diameter. If the hole is initially drilled with just the 1/4" bit, chances are, this will cause the hole to be wallowed out, making it too big for the 1/4" roll, coiled or spiral pin. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]
Advertisement:
| If you would
like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website,
and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance and support,
please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank
Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.
When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly
with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to
the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we
can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
|
| Solid Motor Mounts for Cub Cadet "Quiet
Line" Tractors - Replace Deteriorated "ISO" Rubber Motor Mounts with a Set
of Machined Solid Steel Motor Mounts! An original, ingenious,
innovative concept invention by Brian Miller, because I was the one who
originally thought of, promoted and advertised the use of this product.
Please accept no copycat
products of this kind.
Details include:
|
(Added 3/17/20) OEM Cub Cadet Engine Rubber ISO-Mount Kit.
Replace deteriorated rubber ISO-mounts to lessen chances of clutch drive
plate breakage and so less wear will occur to the clutch assembly. Designed
for IH-built Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" models 800, 1000 and 1200, including
models 1250, 1450 and 1650 with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment. All
of these models have the engine mounted on rails with ISO rubber mounts.
These rubber mounts can also be adapted for use on many other makes and models
of small engine equipment to reduce engine vibration throughout the frame.
|
 OEM stock-length (replaces
Cub Cadet part # IH-394036-R1) or 3" aftermarket rigid tubular carbon steel
driveshaft one-piece rigid tubular couplers for Cub Cadet models 70, 71,
72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 106, 108, 122, 124, 126 and 128. And one-piece
couplers to replace rubber flex coupler(s) and coupler arms on "Quiet Line"
Cub Cadet models 800, 1000, 1050 and 1200 when using
solid motor mounts (The 800, 1000 and 1200
coupler will come with two roll pin holes for single or double rubber flex
coupler(s).) Also custom-length rigid tubular driveshaft couplers, up to
6" in length are available. For a custom-length coupler, exact locations
where the spiral/roll pin holes need to be drilled are required. To find
the location of the spiral/roll pin holes, install the driveshaft in the
tractor with the engine fastened to the frame with a couple of bolts, make
sure the clutch disc is midway on the drive pins, then measure precisely
from the rear spiral/roll pin hole on the driveshaft to the spiral/roll pin
hole in the input shaft in the transaxle, then add 3/4" for the overall length
of the coupler. NOTE: The
3" aftermarket coupler is used only for competition pulling tractors
with a shortened driveshaft so the input pinion shaft/gear can be changed
to vary the ground speed of the tractor. And when ordering,
please specify model of Cub Cadet, overall length and spiral/roll pin hole
locations.
|
 Transaxle Input Shaft
Coupler Arms. Fits IH Cub Cadet "Original" and models 105, 107, 109,
123, 125, 127, 129, 147, 149 and 169. This particular part goes on the input
shaft of the transaxle and not on the driveshaft. Bolt holes spaced 3" apart
with a 3/8" hole in center for pilot end of driveshaft.
|
 Bolts for Driveshaft
Couplers below Ê. Makes for easier
installation and removal of driveshaft assembly, or disconnection of coupler
when changing top input pinion shaft/gear. Dimensions: 1/4" diameter x 1-3/4"
length, partial thread. Includes nylon-insert lock nut.
|
The main cause of breakage of the OEM Cub Cadet aluminum hub
adapter on competition pulling engines that run at wide open throttle is
using out-of-balance OEM clutch pressure plates and OEM 3-pin clutch drive
plate, and/or not installing the large flat washer under the nut or bolt
(as described below Ê). So as long as
the clutch pressure plates and 3-pin clutch drive plate are trued-up in a
unworn metal lathe to remove the run-out or wobble so they'll be precision
balanced, this hub have been known to hold up very well even in a highly
modified competition pulling tractor as long as the original 1/4" thick
x no less than 1-1/4" o.d. flat washer is installed under the flywheel nut
or bolt with hardened 1/4" bolts w/split lock washers to securely fasten
the drive plate to the hub. Otherwise, it's pretty tough.
Separate the Brake and Clutch Operations - (This have been done by many professional pullers in the past.)
Cub Cadet garden tractors that have the brakes integrated with the clutch/brake pedal, when applying the brakes on a competition pulling tractor that has an extremely stiff clutch pressure spring (on the driveshaft), great effort is required (strong leg muscles) to overcome and compress the clutch spring before the brakes can be safely applied. When rolling the tractor off a trailer, this also requires even greater effort to depress the clutch/brake pedal to apply the brakes especially by hand (and arm muscles). What can be done to change this is separate the brake(s) and the clutch operations by disconnecting the brake linkage from the clutch/brake pedal cross shaft, and fabricate a long upright lever (with an adjustable linkage) on the right side of the steering column support pedestal which can be easily and effortlessly pulled back (rearward) by hand to apply the brakes. The clutch/brake pedal will then become just a "clutch pedal," and the lever will be the "brake lever." This would make it much safer and easier to fully stop or slow the tractor down a steep hill or when unloading the tractor down the ramp(s) of a utility trailer or platform work table. Also, a "parking brake" lock mechanism can be installed on the brake lever-to-tractor frame to securely lock the brakes in position to prevent the tractor from rolling or coasting when the tractor is out of gear and the engine running.
If an OEM 3-pin clutch drive
plate is bent next to the drive studs (MTD) or spiral pin collars (IH), to
fix this:
If the bronze pilot bushing in a drive plate is excessively worn, this means that the pressure plates are badly out of balance and/or there was no lubricating grease applied to the bushing or on the driveshaft before installation of the clutch assembly in the tractor. In either case, resurface the pressure plates until they're perfectly flat and true-up the edge to prevent wobble in a metal lathe. IMPORTANT: To ensure true flatness when resurfacing pressure plates, use a lathe that's in good condition with very little wear on the ways! (IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable using a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist with a lathe.)
Advertisement:
| If you would
like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website,
and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance and support,
please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank
Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.
When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly
with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to
the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we
can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
|
 OEM-Thickness Bronze Pilot
Bushing. Fits all pre-1981 gear drive IH-built Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72,
73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 106, 108, 122, 124, 126 and 128, except "Quiet Line"
models. This is also the replacement bushing for the IH Cub Cadet "Original"
clutch disc/pulley. Dimensions: 5/8" i.d. x 7/8" o.d. x 3/4" length.
IMPORTANT: To prevent the replacement pilot bushing from wearing, both
pressure plates should be resurfaced and trued-up in a metal lathe, and before
reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply lubricating
grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because
if the bushing is dry, chances are, the driveshaft will not release, it can
bind up and wear both the bushing and driveshaft.
|
 Thin-Wall Bronze Pilot Bushing
Insert for installing inside a worn OEM bronze pilot bushing in all pre-1981
gear drive IH Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 106, 108,
122, 124, 126 and 128, except "Quiet Line" models. Can also be used inside
the OEM bushing in the IH Cub Cadet "Original" clutch disc/pulley. Dimensions:
5/8" i.d. x 3/4" o.d. x 3/4" length. NOTE: Worn OEM bushing must be precision
center-bored to .750" in a metal lathe so this bushing will have a press
fit. IMPORTANT: To prevent the replacement pilot bushing from wearing,
both pressure plates should be resurfaced and trued-up in a metal lathe,
and before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply
lubricating grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the
driveshaft. Because if the bushing is dry, chances are, the driveshaft will
not release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing and driveshaft.
|
 Swivel (Ball-Type) Pilot
Bushing for Clutch Drive Plate. Fits certain IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractor
models 800, 1000, 1200, 1250, 1450 and 1650. IMPORTANT: To prevent the
replacement pilot bushing from wearing, both pressure plates should be resurfaced
and trued-up in a metal lathe, and before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch
assembly in the tractor, apply lubricating grease inside the pilot bushing
and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if the bushing is dry, chances
are, the driveshaft will not release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing
and driveshaft.
|
 Extra Thick Flywheel / Aluminum
Hub Adapter Retaining Washers. A must to secure flywheel and prevent OEM
Cub Cadet or billet aluminum hub adapter breakage. Each made of steel and
measures approximately 1/4" thick x 1-1/4" o.d.
|
 Step Washer. Use to center
cast aluminum or billet hub adapter with a 5/8" hole to a crankshaft with
the 3/8" bolt on later model Kohler K-series and all Magnum engines. A must
to prevent severe wobble/vibration and prevent hub and/or driveshaft/clutch
breakage. Dimensions: 3/8" i.d. x 5/8" o.d. step x approximately 1-1/4" overall
o.d. x 1/2" overall height. Professionally machined by Brian Miller.
|
Cub Cadet hub adapters with
5/8" center hole (early K-series), w/pulley, w/dowel pin.
Cub Cadet hub adapters with 3/8" center hole (later K-series, all KT-series and Magnum), w/o pulley, w/dowel pin.
|
 1/4" diameter x 3/4" length
hardened steel dowel pin for OEM and billet aluminum hub adapters. Secures
aluminum hub to flywheel to prevent slippage. Replaces Cub Cadet part # KH-X-56-7
and Kohler part # X-56-7. $1.50 each, plus shipping & handling. |
 Flywheel grass/safety steel
screen for use in IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractors with Kohler engine models
K161 and K181. 5-9/16" diameter.
|
 Flywheel grass/safety steel
screen for use in IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractors with Kohler engine models
K241 and K301. 7" diameter.
|
Resurfacing and Truing Up Worn and Warped Pressure Plates -
For any clutch disc to adhere or grip well and to prevent slippage, both pressure plates must be resurfaced until they're perfectly flat in a metal lathe. (IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable using a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist with a lathe.) The outer edge should be trued-up too, to prevent wobble, which can cause the pilot bushing to wear excessively. For a used clutch assembly, chances are, the fiber clutch disc is worn to match the wear on the pressure plates. If the clutch disc is worn, but still reusable, it can be resurfaced until perfectly flat in the lathe as well. For best clutch adhesion and to lessen the chance of slippage, the clutch-to-pressure plates surface contact areas must be flat against flat for 100% contact. Because new OEM Cub Cadet pressure plates are made of stamped steel and are not machined whatsoever. This means they are not perfectly flat and they wobble from the factory. If used pressure plates have not been resurfaced before, then chances are, they'll still be thick enough after being resurfaced. Always remove the minimal amount of metal to retain maximum thickness so they will not warp when hot.
NOTE: Before reassembling the clutch assembly, apply a thin coat of lubricating grease on the area of the driveshaft where the throw-out bearing and where the rear pressure plate slides back and forth. The grease will assure full clutch disengagement, lessen wear to the driveshaft, and it will prevent the rear pressure plate from sticking to the driveshaft due to rust if the tractor is stored in a damp environment. Also, while the rear pressure plate is off the driveshaft, to prevent it from binding on the 2nd spiral pin, which can prevent the clutch from disengaging, widen the slot slightly with a flat file or on the edge of the blade on a chopsaw. (Be sure to wear safety glasses!) And it'll be a good idea to drill a small hole near the center of the rear pressure plate to relieve the air that can get trapped between the pressure plates.
Advertisement:
| If you would
like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website,
and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance and support,
please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank
Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.
When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly
with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to
the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we
can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
|
Repair Services -
|
Warped pressure plates will allow a single or even double clutches to slip. They warp due to overheating and normal wear. When they get warped, they don't have full contact with the entire surface of the clutch disc. Whenever a new clutch disc is installed, rather if it's an OEM one or made of aluminum, the pressure plates should always be resurfaced until perfectly flat and trued up in a metal lathe. (IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable using a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist with a lathe.) New OEM Cub Cadet pressure plates are stamped in a press and not machined in a lathe. This means they're not as flat or turn as true as ones that's been machined in a lathe. Therefore, if new or used pressure plates are going to be used for pulling or heavy lawn and garden use, have the outer edge trued up and have the clutch contact area resurfaced until perfectly flat in a metal lathe. Because new OEM Cub Cadet pressure plates are made of stamped steel and are not machined whatsoever. This means they are not perfectly flat and they wobble from the factory. If used pressure plates have not been resurfaced before, then chances are, they'll still be thick enough after being resurfaced. Always remove the minimal amount of metal to retain maximum thickness so they will not warp when hot.
The OEM Cub Cadet pressure plates are 3/16" (.188") thick. On the average, approximately .005" of metal is removed from the face of each pressure plate after it has been resurfaced until perfectly flat. Removing this much metal will not weaken the plates whatsoever, even when used with a very stout pressure spring.
With both pressure plates properly resurfaced until perfectly flat, the single OEM fiber clutch, with 4-1/2" diameter pressure plates, has a total disc to plate contact area of 17.7 square inches. When doubled (as in double clutches including the 4-1/2" diameter center drive plate), it has a total contact area of 36 square inches. This is why double clutches hold so well in pulling. It's the same as using a bigger clutch that has more contact area. And double-clutches will have even more contact area with 4-5/8" diameter pressure plates!
The aluminum disc on the other hand (as described in this web site), has a total contact area of 29.8 square inches. You may look at this disc and ask, "where's the friction material?" Well, the aluminum itself is the friction material. A single aluminum disc will adhere to (grip) steel a lot better than a single fiber clutch disc. Both of these type of clutches (the single aluminum and double fiber clutch disc), when used with a high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring, has been proven to hold very well in pulling. If everything is machined, precision balanced, installed and adjusted correctly, the aluminum or double-disc clutch system including the driveshaft could possibly last the life of the tractor. Even when used in high-performance conditions.
IMPORTANT: To ensure true flatness when resurfacing pressure plates, use a lathe that's in good condition with very little wear on the ways!
Save the Hubs!
If the discs in your pressure plates are heavily rusted, worn too thin or warped badly and resurfacing them in a lathe didn't do any good, instead of making two entirely new pressure plates, what could be done is remove the center hub from each disc with a hydraulic press and reuse the hubs to make two new pressure plates. This would save from having to fabricate a couple of new hubs.
If the center hole in the slotted hub of the rear [sliding] pressure plate is worn oblong (rare), the hole can be repaired by boring it true in a metal lathe, and a steel sleeve bushing will need to be pressed in and welded in to prevent it from coming loose, and the hole in the bushing will need to be center-bored to .626". The slot will need to be carefully ground out in the bushing to match the slot in the hub using the blade in an electric chop saw with a metal cut-off wheel. Finally, the face of the pressure plate can be resurfaced and trued-up in the metal lathe. (Remember to wear safety glasses!) (IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable using a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist with a lathe.)
Use distilled white vinegar to remove rust from inside gas tanks, tools, bolts/nuts, clutch pressure plates or virtually any steel or cast iron part: vinegar rust removal - YouTube.
If a single fiber clutch disc slips in a stock competition pulling tractor, then what is required to prevent clutch slippage is to install a single piece of machined aluminum to serve as a clutch disc. With resurfaced pressure plates and a high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring, aluminum should grip and hold up well when used in a stock competition pulling tractor. By the way, the OEM sandwiched steel fiber clutch disc and an aluminum clutch disc weighs almost the same; about 10.6 ounces each.
The aluminum clutch disc works best for low RPM stock engines. I use the aluminum clutch disc in our stock competition pulling tractors and the double OEM-fiber clutches in our higher horsepower tractors. I haven't had any problems with either clutches for several years.
If a single, lightweight aluminum clutch disc is used, there's no need to install three extra studs in the 3-pin drive plate (see below Ê ). But definitely have both pressure plates resurfaced until perfectly flat as described above È . Depending on the size of engine and weight of tractor, the aluminum clutch disc require a tougher driveshaft along with a high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring. And it'll be a good idea to install a center support bearing (center support pillow block bearing and brace) to prevent the driveshaft from wobbling at 4,000 RPM. Also, if the pressure plates are properly resurfaced until perfectly flat and if aluminum is used, the aluminum will not excessively wear or melt onto them.
The
biggest mistake a puller can make when launching a tractor is letting the
clutch out all of a sudden with the engine revved up. So when using aluminum
as a clutch disc (or any metallic clutch material), and when the tractor
is hooked to the sled, always remember to "slip" the clutch upon take-off.
To do this, first rev up the engine (a lot), then slowly ease out on the
clutch pedal. Because an
aluminum clutch
disc may not "slip" at low RPM, and because aluminum
adheres to steel very well when under pressure, if the pedal is let out all
of a sudden with the engine revved up, and if the tires don't spin, something
could break or get damaged in the drive train or transaxle. The 5/8" zinc-plated
steel split lock washer that's placed between the pressure plates will aide
greatly in smooth clutch engagement/release and it lessens the possibility
of the clutch from "grabbing" upon take-off.
Advertisement:
| If
you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this
website, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance
and support, please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501
W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.
When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly
with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to
the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we
can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
|
|
Fiber Material Clutch Discs
for IH- and MTD-built Cub Cadet clutch drive garden tractors.
FYI - About 90% of the fiber material in clutch discs will chip off were the holes are due to the following reasons:
|
|
 Teasing Spring
and Protective Thrust Washer. Fits all clutch-drive Cub Cadet garden tractors,
and Cub Cadet models 1250, 1450 and 1650 equipped with a hydrostatic disconnect
attachment. The thrust washer goes between the rear slotted pressure plate
and teasing spring. Each time the clutch is engaged, sometimes the end of
the spring will "catch" in the slot of the pressure plate, which twists the
spring a few thousandths of an inch. Overtime, this creates metal fatigue
in the spring and could cause it to eventually break, even with the cup/spacer
below. The thrust washer prevents this from happening. An original, ingenious,
thoroughly researched and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody
else advertises the use of this washer with the teasing spring. Please accept
no advertised copycat products of this kind. NOTE: There is a custom-made
sleeve available from an aftermarket vendor that goes over the teasing spring
(much like the cup/spacer below). Being the teasing spring does not expand
outward when the clutch is engaged, this sleeve will not prevent the spring
from twisting and possibly breaking. Therefore, it's best to install the
protective thrust washer instead.
|
|
 Cup/Spacer for
Teasing Spring. Made specifically for Cub Cadet garden tractor models 582,
800, 1000, 1200, 1535, 1604, 1606 and 1806. Also fits Cub Cadet models 1250,
1450 and 1650 equipped with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment. Overall
length: .605". NOTE: Do not install this part in a narrow frame
Cub Cadet garden tractor! It will position the
clutch release/throw-out bearing further
back on the driveshaft and not allow the clutch to fully disengage or disengage
at all. IMPORTANT: When installing this part on driveshaft, the
wide/flared end faces forward and the narrow end goes against the clutch
release/throw-out bearing. And do not install this part on a driveshaft that
originally did not come with it. It will set the clutch release/throw-out
bearing back too far, making correct clutch release/throw-out bearing to
release lever clearance adjustment impossible
and the brakes may not work.
|
|
 Cup/Spacer for
Teasing Spring. 2" overall length; made specifically for Cub Cadet garden
tractor model 1050. Comes with installed grease fitting.
IMPORTANT: When installing this part on driveshaft, the wide/flared
end faces forward and the narrow end goes against the
clutch release/throw-out bearing. No
longer available from Cub Cadet. Replaces Cub Cadet part # 711-3282.
|
|
A-1 Miller's Original Machined Aluminum Clutch Disc Kit. Includes
6-hole aluminum clutch disc, 5/8" i.d. split lock washer (goes between pressure
plates for smooth clutch engagement and guaranteed release) and steel spacer
(replaces teaser spring). NOTE: Use only with the
red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.)
pressure spring to prevent clutch slippage. This is an alternate
and direct replacement for the fiber material
clutch disc. Made of the highest quality 6061 alloy; medium-grade hardness
aluminum available. The 1-1/8" center hole in disc is bored dead center,
and the circumference is turned true in my metal lathe, then the 6 drive
holes are precision-drilled using my 8" super spacer with a 6-notch masking
plate on the table of my milling machine. Unlike some of my competitor's
copycat part, the drive holes in my aluminum clutch discs are drilled 13/32"
for less clutch disc noise/rattle and less chance of breakage to the drive
pins/studs. An original, ingenious, thoroughly researched and
innovative concept invented by Brian Miller, because nobody else originally
advertised this part online. IMPORTANT
- It is highly recommended that both pressure plates be trued-up (to reduce
vibration) and resurfaced (machined) in a metal lathe to remove warpage until
perfectly flat or severe clutch slippage may result! Because new OEM Cub
Cadet pressure plates are made of stamped steel and are not machined whatsoever.
This means they are not perfectly flat and they wobble from the factory.
If used pressure plates have not been resurfaced before, then chances are,
they'll still be thick enough after being resurfaced. Always remove the minimal
amount of metal to retain maximum thickness so they will not warp when
hot.
CUB CADET
124 WORK PART 2 - YouTube
|
|
 Clutch Disc
Anti-Rattle Spring. Reduces noisy fiber or aluminum clutch disc rattle on
drive pins/studs. Although one spring may be sufficient to reduce clutch
noise, it may be necessary to install three springs (one for each pin/stud)
for 100% reduced clutch noise. Can be used on fiber or aluminum clutch discs.
NOTE: Recommended for up to 4,000 RPM engines. Not for use on high RPM
or wide open throttle competition pulling tractors due to normal engine harmonic
vibrations that travels out into the clutch assembly, this can create the
possibility of the spring(s) becoming dislodged, which could become a hazardous
airborne projectile if clutch is not properly shielded 360º. So if possible,
install these springs with the coil between the clutch disc and drive plate,
opposite that is shown in the picture to the right, to prevent them from
coming off.
|
How to Make a Fiber or the Aluminum Clutch Disc Engage Smoothly -
The OEM Cub Cadet cushion spring (as it is called in the early/narrow frame Cub Cadets) or teasing spring (as it is called in the later models/wide and spread frame Cub Cadets) goes between the rear pressure plate and clutch release/throw-out bearing. It's purpose is to allow the rear pressure plate to gently press against the clutch disc as the clutch is engaged without having a "jerky" clutch. When using an aluminum clutch disc, the teasing spring can be replaced with a steel spacer or a stack of small outside diameter flat washers (the ones that originally comes on Cub Cadet driveshafts) and an ordinary, zinc-plated steel split lock washer. Install the lock washer between the pressure plates (dead center of the clutch disc) for a smoother clutch engagement. Clutch slippage may result if used with the OEM Cub Cadet clutch pressure spring. Therefore, the aluminum clutch disc should be used with a stiffer-than-stock pressure spring, such as the high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring.
For the narrow-frame Cub Cadets,
the steel spacer needs to be 3/8" in length. (The teasing spring is compressed
to 3/8" when the clutch is fully engaged.) And for Cub Cadet models 86, 108,
128, 800, 1000, 1200 and 1535, the spacer needs to 5/8" length or use the
OEM protective cup/spacer (for the teasing) that originally comes on the
driveshaft, but leave the teasing spring out. By the way - the small end
of the protective cup/spacer goes against the
clutch release/throw-out bearing. If a too
long of a spacer or the protective spacer/cup is used in a narrow frame model,
the clutch release/throw-out bearing would
set too far back on the driveshaft and when the brake/clutch pedal is depressed,
the release lever will make contact with the
steering box and the clutch will not be able to release.
To prevent the teasing spring
from possibly breaking and to help the clutch(es) to engage more smoothly,
simply don't use the teasing spring. Instead, replace where the teasing spring
goes on the driveshaft with a piece of heavy wall round steel tubing that
measures 7/8" o.d. x 3/8" (narrow frame) or 5/8" (wide frame) long x 41/64"
i.d. Then install an ordinary zinc-plated 5/8" i.d. split lock washer between
the pressure plates, dead center of the clutch disc. Use two zinc-plated
steel split lock washers (one for each clutch disc) if using double clutches.
Lock washers have a spring-like action too, plus they'll last a lot longer
than a teasing spring.
The lock washer does two things - it acts like a spring, which forces the pressure plates apart, it provides smooth clutch engagement and it'll help to prevent the possibility of the clutch disc from "grabbing" upon take-off. In addition, the spring-like action of the lock washer will expand the pressure plates when the clutch/brake pedal is fully depressed so they will release from the clutch disc. Doing this will guarantee that the clutch will engage smoothly and release every time. So when reassembling a clutch assembly, don't install the teasing spring. Instead, install the spacer and lock washer as described above È. You'll be glad you did.
Or for a bullet-proof teasing spring setup, and/or if the aluminum clutch disc doesn't engage smoothly, instead of using the 5/8" lock washer between the pressure plates and the teasing spring or a steel spacer, install a flat washer, the 5/8" lock washer, then another flat washer until they all total to about 3/8" or 5/8" in height with the lock washer fully uncompressed.
The correct order of installing Cub Cadet clutch parts on the driveshaft is listed below Ê. NOTE: Before reassembling the clutch assembly, apply a thin coat of lubricating grease on the area of the driveshaft where the throw-out bearing and where the rear pressure plate slides back and forth. The grease will assure full clutch disengagement, lessen wear to the driveshaft, and it will prevent the rear pressure plate from sticking to the driveshaft due to rust if the tractor is stored in a damp environment. Also, while the rear pressure plate is off the driveshaft, to prevent it from binding on the 2nd spiral pin, which can prevent the clutch from disengaging, widen the slot slightly with a flat file or on the edge of the blade on a chopsaw. (Be sure to wear safety glasses!) And it'll be a good idea to drill a small hole near the center of the rear pressure plate to relieve the air that can get trapped between the pressure plates.
| 1. Install 3rd spiral pin then the main pressure
spring. 2. Install clutch release/throw-out bearing (small end facing forward of tractor). 3. Install release lever . 4. Install protective spacer/cup (small end goes against clutch release/throw-out bearing). 5. Install teasing spring or steel spacer. |
6. Compress the pressure spring and install the 2nd spiral
pin. 7. Install pressure plate w/slotted hub. 8. Install zinc-plated steel split lock washer (use only with very stiff pressure spring). 9. Install clutch disc. 10. Install pressure plate w/solid hub, then the 1st spiral pin. |
How to Replace a Broken Teasing Spring on a Cub Cadet Driveshaft (with the driveshaft in the tractor) - (Added 8/28/17)
To disassemble the clutch components from the driveshaft, this is how I do it:
For safety, a
hydraulic press should be used to compress the large pressure
spring on the driveshaft to reassemble the clutch components!
To test how well the clutch will release out of the tractor, place the clutch assembly in the hydraulic press with each end of the release lever on a couple of blocks, and apply slight downward pressure on the end of the driveshaft. The clutch disc should rotate or "move around" freely without binding. If the disc doesn't rotate or binds, redo your work to find out what went wrong.
How to Fix a "Sticking" Cub Cadet Clutch (when it will not release) -
Before reassembling the clutch assembly, apply a thin coat of lubricating grease on the area of the driveshaft where the throw-out bearing and where the rear pressure plate slides back and forth. The grease will assure full clutch disengagement, lessen wear to the driveshaft, and it will prevent the rear pressure plate from sticking to the driveshaft due to rust if the tractor is stored in a damp environment. Also, while the rear pressure plate is off the driveshaft, to prevent it from binding on the 2nd spiral pin, which can prevent the clutch from disengaging, widen the slot slightly with a flat file or on the edge of the blade on a chopsaw. (Be sure to wear safety glasses!) And it'll be a good idea to drill a small hole near the center of the rear pressure plate to relieve the air that can get trapped between the pressure plates.
The Much Over-Looked Clutch Release Lever Clevis Pin -
If the straight 3/8" diameter
OEM Cub Cadet
clevis pin that goes through the clutch hanger bracket
and release lever is worn, this part should be
replaced with an angled or L-shaped pivot pin. As the engine runs with the
clutch fully engaged (foot off the clutch pedal, of course), due to normal
engine vibration and slight out-of-balance rotating clutch parts, the OEM
round pin continually spins, causing the pin itself and the holes in the
hanger bracket to wear. The holes in the release
lever rarely wear because the entire lever is made of hardened, heat-treated
steel. By replacing the round pin with an angled pin (with the short end
long enough to make contact with the tractor frame or hanger bracket), it
can't spin. Therefore, there'll be much less wear on the pin and holes, the
clutch release/throw-out bearing will last
longer, there'll be less noise coming from the clutch parts, clutch operation
will be smoother, and clutch adjustment will remain the same for a longer
time. (I think the engineers at IH Cub Cadet should have originally installed
an angled pin in their tractors. But then again, they probably didn't plan
on their tractors being in use 40-50 years later.)
Advertisement:
| If
you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this
website, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance
and support, please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501
W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.
When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly
with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to
the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we
can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
|
|||
Pivot and Clevis
Pins for Cub Cadet clutch release lever/hanger
brackets. This is an alternative to using the OEM straight clevis pin or
a grade 8 bolt and lock nut. The angled/L-shaped pin prevents the holes in
the release lever and hanger bracket from wearing
oblong due to constant spinning of the OEM straight clevis pin while the
tractor is in operation. The angled/L-shaped pin lessens clutch noise, reduces
erratic clutch pedal operation, maintains clutch adjustment and allows for
smoother clutch operation. Each made of 3/8" diameter mild steel. For clutch
drive Cub Cadet models: 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 106, 108, 122,
124, 126, 128, 580, 582, 800, 1000, 1050, 1200, 1604, 1606 and 1806. The
angled/L-shaped pin is an original, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian
Miller, because nobody else advertise the use of this part. Please accept
no advertised copycat products of this kind.
|
|||
New clutch hanger bracket for narrow frame clutch drive IH Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124 and 126.
|
New clutch hanger bracket for wide frame clutch drive IH Cub Cadet models 86, 108, 128, 800, 1000 and 1200. Also for models 1250, 1450 and 1650 with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment.
|
New clutch hanger bracket for spread frame clutch drive, IH- or MTD-built Cub Cadet models 580, 582, 1050, 1604, 1606 and 1806. May also fit model 1535. Requires clevis pin w/cotter pin.
|
New clutch hanger bracket for spread frame clutch drive MTD-built Cub Cadet model 1535. May also fit models 580, 582, 1050, 1604, 1606 and 1806. Requires shoulder bolt w/locking nut.
|
 New
Clutch Release Lever for all narrow frame clutch drive Cub Cadet models
70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124 and 126. Stock 7-7/8" overall
length.
Repair Service - Weld up and grind smooth worn [throw-out bearing] areas in your release lever. $20.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling. |
|||
 New Clutch Release
Lever for Cub Cadet models 86, 108 and 128. Can also be used for models 800,
1000 and 1200 with solid motor mounts. Stock
8-1/4" overall length.
Repair Service - Weld up and grind smooth worn [throw-out bearing] areas in your release lever. $20.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling. |
|||
 New Clutch Release
Lever for Cub Cadet models 800, 1000 and 1200. Can also can be used for models
86, 108 and 128 with no modifications. Also for models 1250, 1450 and 1650
with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment. Stock 8-1/4" overall length.
Repair Service - Weld up and grind smooth worn [throw-out bearing] areas in your release lever. $20.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling. |
|||
 New Clutch Release
Lever for all spread frame IH- and MTD-built Cub Cadet models 580, 582, 1050,
1535, 1604, 1606 and 1806. Stock 9-3/4" overall length.
Repair Service - Weld up and grind smooth worn [throw-out bearing] areas in your release lever. $20.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling. [Return To Previous Section, Paragraph or Website] |
|||
 Repair Service
- Professionally machine worn hole in IH Cub Cadet "Original" [round]
clutch release arm and install new steel bushing/sleeve to remove excessive
free play in clutch pedal. This part fastens on the clutch/brake cross shaft
and rotates to disengage the clutch when the clutch pedal is depressed. Bushing
is pressed in tight with Loctite so it will not loosen. FYI - The clutch
release arm is discontinued from Cub Cadet and it's OEM Cub Cadet part #
IH-376276-R1. (Part number shown for identification purpose only.)
|
|||
 Clutch
Adjustment/Release Rod for IH Cub Cadet "Original". Length 6-7/8" from inside
of bend.
|
|||
 Nylon Insert
Self-Locking Nut for 3/8" diameter threaded L-shaped clutch adjustment/release
rod. Replace OEM adjusting nut with worn threads to maintain correct clutch
adjustment on virtually all clutch drive Cub Cadet garden tractors. Grade
8 material with 3/8-24 UNF threads. Guaranteed to stay tight. NOTE: Use
a (9/16" size) boxed-in ratcheting wrench (below) for easier and precise
clutch adjustment.
|
|||
 9/16"
size open-end and boxed-in ratcheting wrench for easier and precise Cub Cadet
clutch adjustment. High quality and durable. Spring-loaded catch and
release action. Makes clutch adjustment much easier, more accurate and quicker
than using an ordinary open-end or boxed-end wrench. Turn wrench around to
forward or reverse nut to increase or decrease clutch lever to
clutch release/throw-out bearing clearance.
|
|||
 Clutch Release
Tension Spring for all narrow, wide and spread frame Cub Cadet models. Slips
over threaded end of 3/8" diameter L-shaped clutch adjustment/release rod.
Necessary to maintain correct clutch adjustment and reduce clutch noise.
Also fits mower deck lift handle rod. Dimensions: 13/32" i.d. x 3-3/4"
uncompressed length.
|
|||
 Clutch Pedal Return
Springs. A must for clutch-drive Cub Cadet garden tractors to prevent premature
wear to clutch release/throw-out bearing
and clutch release lever, and prevent annoying
rattling sound. Fits Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, 100, 102, 104, 105, 122,
123, 124 and 125. 2-1/2" unextended length between hooks.
|
|||
How to Save a Used Clutch Release/Throw-Out Bearing - An ingenious
and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this.
If
a used clutch release/throw-out bearing is
still pretty much "tight," but sounds noisy or "rattles" when you spin it
by hand, it could be saved from further wear by pumping it full of lubricating
grease. The same can be done to a new bearing to ensure that it will last
a long time. (I've done this many times when I rebuild clutch assemblies
and have never had one complaint!) The fresh grease will help keep the
balls within the bearing well-lubricated and cool, preventing them from further
wear. But if the bearing is badly worn or if you're in doubt about doing
this, then perhaps install a new one. (Cub Cadet part # 741-3056)
When assembling the clutch
components, never install the clutch release/throw-out bearing on the
driveshaft backwards! Install it with the collar (the center part that
sticks out) towards the clutch disc.
How To Save A Used clutch release/throw-out bearing:
Using either a
needle grease injector (resembles a hypodermic syringe
that attaches to an
automotive grease gun) or a
chainsaw bar tip grease gun, pump the bearing through the
drilled hole until it's full of lubricating grease. Rotate the bearing 180º
and pump it again. It's full when the grease starts to ooze out of the dust
seals.
The same procedure above È can be done to many types of used precision, high-speed sealed roller bearings, besides just clutch release/throw-out bearings. And for anyone who's ever wondered about this, when the clutch/brake pedal is fully depressed, the clutch release/throw-out bearing moves back 3/8" on the driveshaft.
| If you would
like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website,
and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance and support,
please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank
Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.
When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly
with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to
the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we
can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
|
  Self-Centering, Swivel Bearings and Retainers for front of
IH Cub Cadet "Original" driveshaft.
|
Bronze Bushing for IH Cub
Cadet "Original" Throw-Out/Clutch Release Bearing Assembly. Dimensions: 1"
i.d. x 1-1/8" o.d. x 1" length. Grind or drill hole in bushing so grease
through grease (Zerk)
fitting can lubricate clutch release/throw-out bearing. Discontinued
from Cub Cadet. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-376259-R1.
|
 Needle Bearing and Thrust
Washer Kit for IH Cub Cadet "Original" Throw-Out/Clutch Release Bearing Assembly.
Includes one needle bearing and two thrust washers. Dimensions: 1" i.d. x
1-9/16" o.d. x .032" thickness thrust washers.
|
 Extra Thick Flat Washer. Used
to apply pressure against rear pressure plate in IH Cub Cadet "Original"
clutch assembly. Dimensions: 1-3/4" o.d. x approximately 5/32" thickness
x .626" center hole. Discontinued from Cub Cadet. Replaces Cub Cadet part
# IH-25556-R1.
|
 Clutch Release/Throw-Out
Bearings for all IH-built narrow frame clutch drive Cub Cadet models 70,
71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124 and 126. Bearing dimensions:
5/8" i.d. x 1.570" o.d. NOTE: The protruding center part faces forward
in the tractor, toward the engine.
 Lubricating Sleeve with Grease
(Zerk) Fitting for use with the short clutch release/throw-out bearing above
È. When reassembling clutch parts on
narrow- or wide-frame Cub Cadet driveshaft, a thin coat of lubricating grease
between the clutch release/throw-out bearing and driveshaft is all they receive
for the life of the driveshaft until it's disassembled again for rebuilding.
This part allows for easy lubrication and saves wear to driveshaft from sliding
friction due to movement of clutch release/throw-out bearing, especially
with a heavy (red or yellow) main pressure spring. Also allows for easier
and smoother clutch pedal depression. Sleeve installs between clutch
release/throw-out bearing and main pressure spring with grease fitting toward
the spring for easier access. Heavy wall tubing measures .626" i.d. x 1"
o.d. x 3/4"± length. Third spiral pin hole or
split clamping/locking
collar(s) behind pressure spring may need to be relocated 3/4"
further back on the driveshaft. IMPORTANT: Lubricate driveshaft through
grease fitting in bushing with an
automotive grease gun once a year. An ingenious,
thoroughly researched and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody
else advertise the use of this part.
|
 Clutch Release/Throw-Out
Bearings for all wide and spread frame IH- and MTD-built Cub Cadet models
108, 128, 580, 582, 800, 1000, 1050, 1200, 1535, 1604, 1606 and 1806. Also
fits Cub Cadet models 1250, 1450 and 1650 with hydrostatic disconnect attachment.
Bearing dimensions: .780" i.d. x 1.850" o.d. x .550" height. This larger
diameter bearing covers more area in the wide and spread frame
release levers for longer wear to lever. IMPORTANT:
Lubricate driveshaft through bushing with an
automotive grease gun once a year.
|
 Grease
(Zerk) Fittings. Use a 1/4-28 UNF hand tap to cut new threads for
installation of a new fitting.
Click or tap here
to learn how to cut new threads, the professional way.
|
The Clutch Pedal Return Spring and Maintaining Proper Clutch Adjustment -
Install the clutch pedal return spring to prevent from wearing
both the clutch release/throw-out bearing
and release lever. Don't just install a cotter
pin in place of it. A pedal return spring is a short, very stiff, expansion
spring with a hook on each end. The size is approximately 3/4" diameter x
2-1/8" in overall length. And do not "ride the clutch"! Take your foot
off the clutch pedal when the tractor is in motion.
The return spring connects from the hole in the end of the clutch adjustment/release rod to a hole in the cross member that's in the tractor's frame. Install one end of the spring in the linkage first, then install the other end in the cross member. NOTE: It may be difficult to get the end of the spring in the hole because of the tension, but it can be done and it MUST be done. (I do it all the time with our muscles, Vise Grips and a little leverage from our trusty small pry bar.)
There are no adjustments for the pedal return spring. It's job is to prevent the release lever from making connect with a clutch release/throw-out bearing when the clutch pedal is fully disengaged. The pedal return spring attaches from the clutch adjustment/release rod that runs from the release lever back to the bell crank that's on the clutch/brake pedal shaft. This shaft goes crossways through the frame of the tractor. It is very important that the tractor have a pedal return spring to prevent wearing of the clutch release/throw-out bearing against the release lever (it will wear, too) while the clutch pedal is fully disengaged and the tractor is in operation.
If a pedal return spring is not installed or if the operator "rides the clutch" when pulling or when the tractor is in operation (keeping one's foot on the clutch pedal at all times), this will cause the clutch release/throw-out bearing to spin the same speed as the engine, wearing it out prematurely. This will also wear the release lever as well. So making the proper adjustment and not "riding the clutch" will help the clutch release/throw-out bearing last a very long time. The return spring connects from the hole in the end of the clutch adjustment/release rod to a hole in the cross member in the tractor's frame. NOTE: It may be somewhat difficult to get the end of the spring in the hole because of the tension, but it can be done, and it must be done. (I do it all the time with our Vise Grips and a little leverage from our trusty small pry bar.)
How to Set the Correct Cub Cadet Drive Clutch Adjustment -
When the clutch/brake pedal
is fully disengaged (not depressed), no part of the
clutch release/throw-out bearing is supposed
to make contact with the clutch release lever.
Otherwise, the clutch
release/throw-out bearing will turn the same RPM as the engine. If
these continually make contact with the engine running and while the tractor
is in motion, the driveshaft will continually spin the
throw-out bearing, causing it to overheat
and eventually burn-out, and the contact area on the
release lever will likely to wear excessively.
The excessive heat from the overheated throw-out bearing could travel into
and weaken (damage) the front end of the main pressure spring too, making
it place less pressure against the clutch disc. This will occur with ordinary
lawn and garden, and competition pulling tractors alike. Therefore, to determine
the proper clearance and adjust for the "safe" distance between the
throw-out
bearing and release lever, with the
clutch/brake pedal fully disengaged (not depressed) and the clutch/brake
pedal arm against the pedal stop, which is a small angled steel spot-welded
to the tractor frame, and with a pedal return spring installed, adjust the
self-locking nut on the L-shaped clutch adjustment/release rod (that's on
the lower part of the release lever) until there's
approximately 9/32" - 5/16" of clearance between the pedal arm and pedal
stop. This will allow for .050" - .060" (approximately 1/16") of clearance
between the throw-out
bearing and release lever.
Use a
9/16" size boxed-in ratcheting wrench to
make the clutch adjustment much easier. And an accurate way to check for
the correct clearance between the clutch
release/throw-out bearing and clutch release
lever is to use a 7mm or 5/16" rod or square stock as a thickness gauge.
When the self-locking nut on the L-shaped adjustment/release rod is turned
clockwise (when facing the front of the tractor), this decreases the clearance,
and when the nut is turned counterclockwise, this increases the clearance.
Also, if a tractor doesn't already have one, definitely install a
pedal return spring
(extension spring) of the correct length on the clutch
adjustment/release rod to the hole in the cross member that's welded between
the frame rails so pressure from the release lever
will be taken off the clutch release/throw-out
bearing when the clutch/brake pedal is fully disengaged (not depressed)
to prevent from premature and excessive wearing of the clutch release/throw-out
bearing and/or release lever.
[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
Information About the Clutch Main Pressure Spring -
If a light-weight tractor with a governed engine (up to 4,000 RPM) is going to be used for general yard work, it's okay to use the stock OEM Cub Cadet pressure spring with the OEM fiber clutch disc. A good used stock OEM pressure spring and a new OEM spring should measure no less than 6-1/2" in uncompressed length. The maximum length is 7". But the compressed length (on the driveshaft with the clutch pedal fully depressed) is 5". If a spring has been used on a driveshaft with an overheated or burned-out clutch release/throw-out bearing, it's best to replace both. And if the pressure plates have been resurfaced until perfectly flat, but the clutch still slips in the heavier chores, perhaps a high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring may need to be installed. (See below Ê.)
If the tractor stops pulling about halfway down the track, and if the engine is still running, but the tires aren't spinning, then the clutch is slipping. For the pressure plates to grip the clutch disc(s) firmly, the pressure spring must be a very stout one. The Cub Cadet clutch pressure spring has about 250 psi of pressure and will probably not prevent the clutch from slipping in a competition pulling tractor. Therefore, a high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring works excellent with the OEM clutch disc, aluminum disc or double OEM clutches. The OEM clutch release lever may need to be extended 3" with either of these springs for easier clutch pedal depression.
How to Reinforce the Clutch Release Lever Brace on a Wide and Spread Frame Cub Cadet When Using the Yellow Spring -
Install a piece of 1/8" x 1" x (you'll need to measure the length if the transaxle have been moved rearward) flat steel from the center of the clutch release lever brace back to one of the upper bolts on the front of the transaxle. Use grade 8 bolts so it can be removed later in case of repairs. This is much easier to do on a platform work table. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]
Advertisement:
| If you would
like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website,
and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance and support,
please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank
Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.
When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly
with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to
the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we
can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
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 OEM
Cub Cadet Clutch Pressure Springs. Suitable for general lawn and
garden work only. Not recommended for competition pulling. 6-3/4" to 7"
uncompressed length. OEM Cub Cadet part # 932-3016.
Aftermarket High Pressure Clutch Springs. 800± lb. "Red" Spring, and 1,150± lb. "Yellow" Spring for all models of clutch-drive Cub Cadet garden tractors. Compress either spring to 4-1/2" when installed. Suitable for heavy lawn and garden use or snow removal and/or Stock, Hot-Stock, Stock-Altered, Super-Stock, 50 c.i. Pro-Stock and 50 c.i. Modified Class competition pulling tractors. Ideal for use with aluminum clutch disc or double fiber clutch disc setup. The OEM clutch release lever may need to be extended 3" with either of these springs for easier clutch pedal depression. Dimensions of each spring: 5/8" i.d. x 1-1/4" o.d. x 6" length These springs are a direct replacement for OEM Cub Cadet clutch pressure spring. Depending on type of clutch, the Red spring is suitable for Hot-Stock and Stock-Altered tractors, and the Yellow spring is suitable for 16hp Missouri Super-Stock, Pro-Stock and Modified tractors. Compress to 4-1/2". When installing either of these springs, use the original 3rd spiral/roll pin hole in the driveshaft, which should measure 9-1/4" - 9-3/8" from the very front of the driveshaft, or install one or two split clamping/locking collar(s) at 9-1/4" - 9-3/8" from the very front of the driveshaft with a center support pillow block bearing and brace to prevent driveshaft wobble and reduce chance of driveshaft breakage at wide open throttle operation.
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NOTE: When the high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring is used, and for smooth clutch engagement and easy release, the 5/8" split lock washer goes between the pressure plates, and the steel spacer replaces the teasing spring. But when the OEM stock pressure spring is used, leave out the lock washer and use the OEM teasing spring between the clutch release/throw-out bearing and rear pressure plate.
NOTE: When the high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring is used, and for smooth clutch engagement and easy release, the 5/8" split lock washer goes between the pressure plates, and the steel spacer replaces the teasing spring. But when the OEM stock pressure spring is used, leave out the lock washer and use the OEM teasing spring between the clutch release/throw-out bearing and rear pressure plate.
NOTE: When the high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring is used, and for smooth clutch engagement and easy release, the 5/8" split lock washer goes between the pressure plates, and the steel spacer replaces the teasing spring. But when the OEM stock pressure spring is used, leave out the lock washer and use the OEM teasing spring between the clutch release/throw-out bearing and rear pressure plate.
NOTE: When the high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring is used, and for smooth clutch engagement and easy release, the 5/8" split lock washer goes between the pressure plates, and the steel spacer replaces the teasing spring. But when the OEM stock pressure spring is used, leave out the lock washer and use the OEM teasing spring between the clutch release/throw-out bearing and rear pressure plate.
There are 4 steps in Installing a Double-Disc Clutch Setup
Step #1 - "Notch" the Release Lever and Relocate it's Bracket:
There are two options of doing this. Either way you choose to do it, you
will need to make room for the extra clutch disc and center drive plate.
Clutch Drive Studs w/Nuts and split lock washers for MTD
Cub Cadet 3-pin clutch drive plate or to convert a 3-pin clutch drive plate
into a 6 pin clutch driver. Each stud below made of hardened steel.
High Quality Replicated
Driveshafts for IH and MTD-built Cub Cadet Clutch Drive Models 70, 71, 72,
73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 106, 108, 122, 124, 126, 128, 580, 582, 800, 1000,
1050, 1200, 1250, 1450 and 1650 (with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment),
1604, 1606 and 1806. NOTE: These
driveshafts are made to order. When ordering, please specify model of Cub
Cadet and possibly exact length and exactly where the spiral/roll pin holes
needs to be drilled. Please indicate if you want the 3rd hole drilled for
the main pressure spring or if you are going to use a
High Quality Replicated
Driveshafts for IH Cub Cadet Hydrostatic Drive Models 105, 107, 123, 125,
127, 147 (narrow frames), and 109, 129, 149 and 169 (wide frames with factory
solid mounted engine). Available in 1144 Stress Proof steel only.
High Quality Replicated
Driveshafts for Cub Cadet Hydrostatic Drive Models 1100, 1250, 1450 and 1650.
Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH 140079 C1. 
High Quality Replicated
Driveshafts for MTD-built Cub Cadet Hydrostatic Drive Models 680, 682, 782,
782D, 784, 882, 982, 1210, 1211, 1282, 1512, 1541, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1810,
1811, 1812 and 1860. Replaces Cub Cadet part #'s IH 140079 C1 (models 680,
1210, 1211, 1282), 738-3061 (782D, 882, 1512), 738-3011 (models 682, 782,
784, 982, 1541, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1860). Please specify
model of tractor when ordering. 
Support Brace to be used with either
Pillow Block Bearing above È. Made of
1/8" thickness x 2-1/2" width angle steel with holes drilled. Super tough,
will not break, even under severe vibration. IMPORTANT! Before
installing this brace between Cub Cadet frame rails, first install pillow
block bearing w/housing on assembled driveshaft, connect driveshaft to transaxle
and engine, tighten engine mounting bolts to tractor frame, then fasten this
angle brace to pillow block bearing. This will guarantee the pillow block
bearing is in perfect alignment and centered with the driveshaft. Otherwise,
the driveshaft will be noisy. Then permanently weld angle brace to tractor
frame rails. See correct installation below.
Ê A product by Brian Miller, because
nobody else advertise this part online.
Pillow Block Bearing with Angle
Support Brace and Grade 8 Bolts/Nuts Assembly. (Package deals.) A product
by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this assembly online.
(Added 2/19/16) [
These are an alternative to
replacing deteriorated OEM "ISO" rubber engine mounts, which is usually
associated with damaged clutch components. Fits IH Cub Cadet "Quiet Line"
garden tractor models 482, 680, 800, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211,
1250, 1282, 1340, 1450 and 1650. If the engine in your tractor is mounted
on angled cradles with rubber mounts between the cradles and tractor frame,
then these are what your tractor needs.
These install between the engine
mounting cradles and tractor frame. A thick flat washer fastens on top of
the cradles with the solid mounts between the cradles and tractor frame.
Can be easily removed if rubber mounts are used instead.
Driveshaft Coupler Arms.
Fits Cub Cadet models 482, 580, 582, 680, 682, 782, 784, 782D, 800, 882,
1000, 1050, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1541, 1604,
1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1811, 1812 and 1860. This particular part goes
on the driveshaft and not on the input shaft of the transaxle. Bolt holes
spaced 3" apart with a 5/8" through-hole in center. No longer available from
Cub Cadet.
Transaxle Input
Shaft Coupler Arms. Fits Cub Cadet models 482, 580, 582, 680, 682, 782,
784, 782D, 800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282,
1450, 1512, 1541, 1604, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1811, 1812 and 1860.
This particular coupler arm goes on the input shaft of the transaxle and
not on the driveshaft. Bolt holes spaced 3" apart with a 5/8" through-hole
in center.
Driveshaft Rubber Flex Coupler.
Fits Cub Cadet Original and Hydrostatic Drive Cub Cadet models: 105,
107, 109, 123, 125, 127, 129, 147, 149 and 169. Prevents damage to the
hydrostatic pump assembly. Bolt holes spaced 3" apart. Can also be used as
a flexible U-joint in a custom steering shaft setup.
Driveshaft Rubber Flex
Coupler. Fits Cub Cadet models: 482, 582, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1050 (two
required), 1100, 1200 (two required on certain tractors), 1204, 1210, 1211,
1250, 1282, 1450, 1604, 1650, 1710, 1712, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1860, 1872, 1912,
1914 and 2072. Prevents damage to the hydrostatic pump assembly. Has larger
center hole to clear swivel bushing in coupler arm. Can be substituted for
flex coupler above. Bolt holes spaced 3" apart.
Professionally resurface YOUR
Cub Cadet pressure plates until perfectly flat with a smooth, slick surface,
and true-up outer edge to prevent
Center Drive Plate (Floater
Disc) for Double 
IMPORTANT
- It is highly recommended that both pressure plates be trued-up (to reduce
vibration) and resurfaced (machined) in a metal lathe to remove warpage until
perfectly flat or severe clutch slippage may result!
5/8" i.d. Zinc-Plated Steel
Split Lock Washer and Steel Spacer Kit. Replaces teasing spring on all narrow
frame clutch drive Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122,
124 and 126. $5.00 per set, plus shipping & handling.
[
Clutch Adjustment/Release Rod
for Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124 and 126.
Length 8-7/8" from inside of bend.
Clutch Adjustment/Release Rod
for Cub Cadet models 86, 108, 128, 800, 1000 and 1200. (800, 1000 and 1200
models with caliper [axle] brakes.) Length 11-1/4" from inside of bend.
Install cotter pin in middle of rod to serve as a stop for the compression
spring. NOTE: Clutch adjustment/release rod for Cub Cadet models 800,
1000 and 1200 models with the internal brake 
Clutch Adjustment/Release Rod
for Cub Cadet models 580, 582, 1050, 1535, 1604, 1606 and 1806. Length 11-11/16"
from inside of bend. Install cotter pin in middle of rod to serve as a
stop for the compression spring.
Small o.d. x 5/8" i.d. Steel
Flat Washer for 800 lb. and 1,150 lb. clutch pressure springs above
Ê. Prevents end of spring from uncoiling
around 3rd spiral pin. Not required when either spring is used with
Only on the narrow frame Cub Cadets, cut out
the lower part of the clutch 
The first Cub Cadet model
made was the International Cub Cadet tractor, better known as the
Fasten the
aluminum to the pulley with six (for strength) 10-32 UNF x 1/2" length flat
head brass screws equally spaced apart on each side. Offset the threaded
holes in the pulley so the threads of the screws on one side will not interfere
with the screws on the other side. Countersink the heads of the screws into
the aluminum with the heads slightly below the surface of the aluminum. Make
sure the aluminum is perfectly flat before installing it on the pulley, too.
And of course, when using aluminum as clutch material, a stiffer-than-stock
pressure spring, such as the 
For performance testing of 10-16hp
single cylinder Kohler stock or competition pulling engines at speeds up
to 12,000 RPM. The only dyno service for testing Kohler pulling engines in
central Missouri. Two uncontaminated fuel tanks with an electric fuel pump
- one for gas and another for methanol. Fully operational and 100% accurate,
customers can rent dyno time, fine tune and make adjustments or changes to
their engines to gain maximum horsepower and torque, and print-out the results
so their tractor(s) will be truly competitive on the track. With an engine
dyno, the puller can adjust their engine to get maximum horsepower and torque,
and gear their tractor appropriately to have an advantage over the competition.
NOTE: A fresh-built engine may not produce full power until it's broke-in.
This is when the valves wear-in with the seats to completely seal in the
compression. The rings will likely hold the compression, but the valves may
leak slightly until they wear into the seats. This is normal for all engines
and may take several hours or pulls to happen, then the valves will be able
to hold full compression. Lots of pullers tell A-1 Miller's after I've built
their engines that it seems to pull stronger every time they pull it.
Coming Soon - Detailed
Illustrated Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back and Self-Propelled
Garden Tractor Pulling Sled. FYI - The
professionally-built self-propelled pulling sled, Track Master (click the
picture to the right to see a larger image of this sled), is the only one
I've ever built and I got it right the first time, with very few changes
that had to be made to it. I guess I'm just one of those kind of guys that
knows what he's doing. Pullers really like pulling our sled, too. They say
it's the best sled they've ever pulled. (Not bragging, just stating a fact.)
By the way - Track Master sled is engineered so well (by Brian Miller), that
other sled builders/owners have copied our well thought-out and proven design.
Anyway, I have lots of work to do in my shop and I work on the sled plans
in my spare time. As soon as my plans with an inventory list of parts to
use are perfected, I'll post the update in my websites. Remember - Perfection
takes time. If it's worth having, it's worth waiting for. Also, I plan to
acquire a bigger shop and I may build high quality garden tractor pulling
sleds in the future to offer for sale. Please call A-1 Miller's at 573-256-0313
(shop) or 573-881-7229 (cell; text or voice message), or email A-1 Miller's
at 
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