How to Rebuild and Improve the Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Drive Clutch Assembly

This page was last updated 1/29/21 (Click Refresh to see changes or updates.) Optimized for 1024 x 768 screen resolution. To search for a word or phrase in any of my web sites, press CTRL and F to open the Find dialog box in your web browser. Although every effort has been taken to check the accuracy of information contained herein, I cannot assume responsibility for errors.

On the direct-drive Cub Cadet, power from the engine is through the clutch and driveshaft assembly to the transaxle and to the rear tires. If the clutch is severely worn or if stock (OEM) parts may slip and little power or torque will be transferred, especially when using the tractor for competition pulling (especially with a big engine in a fast gear), gardening or to haul heavy loads. An engine in a competition pulling tractor that's built to the max or runs at high RPM or at wide open throttle produces a lot more torque than what the engineers at Cub Cadet originally anticipated for the driveline to handle. Therefore, the clutch assembly is the weak point (and the one-piece carrier and coarse spline axles), and will need to be reinforced and built up for strength for durability and to prevent slippage. Remember: towards the end of the track, if the tires don't spin or the engine bogs down, then the clutch will slip or something elsewhere in the driveline will possibly twist or break.

Types of Clutch Assemblies -

An ordinary clutch assembly for general lawn and garden use consist of a OEM quality steel driveshaft, composite clutch disc and an OEM pressure spring. But a clutch assembly for heavy lawn and garden use consist of a heavy duty 3- or 6-pin drive plate, either high strength steel or stainless steel driveshaft, either a single aftermarket composite clutch disc or a single aluminum clutch disc, and definitely a much stiffer pressure spring for placing a heavier load against the clutch disc. Also, the pressure plates will definitely need to be resurfaced until perfectly flat and trued-up in a small metal lathe to ensure that the pressure plates will adhere to the clutch disc sufficiently to prevent slippage. Because new OEM Cub Cadet pressure plates are made of stamped steel and are not machined whatsoever. This means they are not perfectly flat and they wobble from the factory when new. If used pressure plates have not been resurfaced before, then chances are, they'll still be thick enough after being resurfaced. Always remove the minimal amount of metal to retain maximum thickness so they will not warp when hot. (IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable using a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist with a lathe.) The same happens to automotive flywheels and pressure plates as the clutch disc wears. They need to be resurfaced too, when installing a new clutch disc. And the heavier or stronger the clutch assembly is, the more it will cost. By the way - if the rotating clutch parts are precision balanced, installed and adjusted correctly, the OEM Cub Cadet or aftermarket composite clutch disc setup should last a long time, a lot longer than the popular aftermarket 3 puck metallic clutch disc.

Cub Cadet made four different 3-pin clutch drive plates. The bolt-circle pattern for the three clutch disc drive pins/partially threaded studs and four mounting holes are the same for all drive plates listed below.

The first clutch drive plate is designed for the IH-built narrow- and wide-frame Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124, 126, 86, 108 and 128 with a solid-mounted engine. It's made of flat, solid/non-flexible, 1/8" thickness steel, with a bronze bushing (pilot bearing) pressed in the center to support the driveshaft, and has coiled/spiral pins to drive the clutch disc. This type of drive plate can also be used on the Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" rubber ISO-mounted engine garden tractors (listed below Ê) as long as solid motor mounts are installed. It's Cub Cadet part # IH-384652-R12.
The second clutch drive plate is designed for the IH-built Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" rubber ISO-mounted engine garden tractor models 800, 1000 and 1200 (and models 1250, 1450 and 1650 with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment). It has a flat, thin, flexible, hardened steel center section riveted to a thicker outer flat plate of steel, and has a self-aligning spherical bronze pilot bushing, and has coiled/spiral pins to drive the clutch disc. Due to the engine being mounted on rubber, which allows it to "move around" while in operation, the thin center section in this drive plate is notorious for cracking or breaking after just a few years of general lawn and garden use. There is no way to prevent this damage except install solid motor mounts and a solid clutch drive plate mentioned above È. It's Cub Cadet part # IH-117591-C1.
The third clutch drive plate has four 1/4" holes in addition to two 3/8" holes in the center. It's designed for the IH-built 582 with a Briggs & Stratton opposed twin cylinder engine and certain MTD-built Cub Cadet garden tractor models 580 (disc clutch drive models), 582 (disc clutch drive models), 1050, 1535, 1604 (disc clutch drive models), 1606 (disc clutch drive models) and 1806. It's made of 1/8" thick concaved (dish-shaped) steel, and has a self-aligning spherical bronze pilot bushing, and has partially threaded studs with nuts to drive the clutch disc. This drive plate is an improved design over the previous IH Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" rubber ISO-mounted engine drive plates because this part is rigid and don't break or crack due to the engine being mounted on rubber. But due to the dish-shaped offset and engine placement in the tractor, this drive plate can only be used in the IH-built 582 and the MTD-built Cub Cadets. This drive plate is universal, and can be used in place of the drive place listed below. This part is no longer available from Cub Cadet.
And the fourth clutch drive plate has just two 3/8" holes in the center. This part only came on Cub Cadet garden tractors with a Briggs & Stratton opposed twin cylinder engine. This includes certain IH- and MTD-built models 580 (disc clutch drive models), 582 (disc clutch drive models), 1050, 1535, 1604 (disc clutch drive models), 1606 (disc clutch drive models) and 1806. It's Cub Cadet part # 903-0216.

Depending on the class your tractor is going to pull in and engine size/modifications, there are many variations in which clutch/driveshaft design and carrier/axles to use. Listed are the weakest to the strongest:

For driveshaft material, there's stress proof steel, chromoly steel and stainless steel.
- For the clutch drive models, the wide frame driveshaft is exactly 1" longer than the narrow frames, and the IH-built model 582 (serial number 719999 and below Ê) driveshaft has a blunt end and 5/8" steel ball that swivels with engine movement (rubber ISO mount) in the center hole of the input shaft on the transaxle, and MTD-built 582 (serial number 720000 and up) driveshaft is 1/2" longer with a pointed end that swivels with engine movement in the center hole of the input shaft on the transaxle.
As for the types of clutch setups, there's the single OEM Cub Cadet or aftermarket composite clutch disc with a stiffer pressure spring, an aluminum clutch disc, also with a stiffer pressure spring, OEM Cub Cadet or aftermarket clutch disc with a stiffer pressure spring with a stiffer pressure spring, Volkswagen clutch/pressure plate/flywheel, etc.
And as for the carrier and axles, there's the OEM Cub Cadet heavy duty one-piece carrier with either coarse or fine spline axles, OEM Cub Cadet's (MTD) two-piece fine spline carrier and axles, Ford Pinto carrier and axles, Chrysler's 7-1/4" carrier and axles, and Ford's 8" carrier and axles.

Using Quality Driveshaft Material Is Important!

Most driveshafts are likely to break at the second coiled/spiral pin hole, just in front of the clutch release/throw-out bearing. Because that's where the most vibration usually occurs. They also break just behind the pressure spring, in front of the pillow block bearing, due to temporary frame twisting (narrow frames) when pulling. If this happens, it's best to install a split clamping/locking collar.

What mainly makes the driveshaft break at 4,000+ RPM is either...

Poor quality material and/or workmanship.
Loosening of engine to oil pan due to use of an oil pan gasket.
Out-of-balance clutch parts and/or out-of-balance rotating engine parts, which could cause harmonic vibrations (resonance) to travel throughout the clutch and driveshaft assembly.
Lack of a center support pillow block bearing and brace installed midway on the driveshaft.
Lack of solid motor mounts in a Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" rubber ISO-mounted engine garden tractor.
Lack of 1/4" thick steel engine-stiffener plates installed under tractor frame to make the engine rigid in a narrow- or wide-frame (solid-mounted engine models) Cub Cadet with front axle is moved forward to end of frame.
Severe flexing of the frame on a narrow frame Cub Cadet when the frame rails are widened and not reinforced to accommodate the larger 9-1/2" flywheel and gear starter.

If quality driveshaft material is used, and if the rotating parts are precision balanced and if a carrier bearing is also installed (above 4,000 RPM. The factory setting of maximum RPM for virtually all small gas engines, including all of Kohler engines is 3,600), the driveshaft could possibly last the life of the tractor. Even when used in high-performance conditions.

Remember, in the direct-drive Cub Cadet, the entire clutch/driveshaft assembly rotates the same speed as the engine. For reliability in a highly modified tractor that turns well above 4,000 RPM, the driveshaft must be made of quality, solid hardened steel that can resist torsional twist. Such as high strength 1144 stress proof steel, heat-treated 4140 chrome-moly steel or ultra tough 304 alloy stainless steel.

Mild steel (cold rolled; 45,000 P.S.I. strength; about the same as OEM material) cost the least, and can be safely used in a basic stock tractor with an engine that's limited to 4,000 RPM or for non-pulling applications. It's obviously easy to bore holes through.
Stress-proof steel is heat-treated, which makes it very strong (95,000 P.S.I. strength, which is about twice stronger than OEM driveshafts). It'll flex with slightly out-of-balance rotating parts at high RPM or at wide open throttle then return to its original straightness when the speed is reduced. It's easy to bore holes through.
Heat-treated chrome-moly steel is another quality material to use. It comes in various hardnesses; from 60,000 to 100,000 P.S.I. strength. It's somewhat easy to bore holes through.
304 alloy stainless steel is much more rigid than any of the listed above È metals (130,000 P.S.I. strength) and works excellent for use as driveshaft material. It require a little more effort to bore holes through.

Advertisement: (Prices are subject to change without notice.)

Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website.

Professionally Rebuilt Fully Assembled and Ready to Install Drive Clutch Assemblies for IH- and MTD-Built Cub Cadet Garden Tractors listed below. For general lawn and garden use, heavy towing, pushing snow or competition pulling. All A-1 Miller's clutch assemblies are build or rebuilt to give good service and last a long time. A-1 Miller's also offers rebuilding of the plain stock IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor clutch assembly, OEM Cub Cadet clutch assemblies, and heavy duty and/or competition garden pulling tractor clutch assemblies! We can rebuild your clutch assembly however you want it, if you don't mind sending it to us. Include a note with your contact information, tell us how you're going to use your tractor and we'll build or rebuild your clutch to suit your needs. We also offer individual clutch parts for the do-it-yourself rebuilders.
Drive clutch assemblies listed below for narrow and wide, spread frame Cub Cadet garden tractors for general yard and garden use. Parts include: New high strength 1144 stress proof steel driveshaft, new coiled/spiral pins, new aftermarket composite clutch disc, new aftermarket throw-out bearing, reconditioned release lever, new main pressure spring, new teasing [compression] spring and protective thrust washer, and both pressure plates resurfaced and trued-up. 3-pin drive plate shown in pictures shown above not included with clutch assemblies. All clutch purchases do not include the rear coupler or coupler arms and flex coupler. Purchase these separately, if needed. When ordering, please state model number of Cub Cadet garden tractor. Core trade-in must be in rebuildable condition with very few missing or damaged parts. *The price to build or rebuild your clutch assembly depends on which parts can be reused and which new parts are installed, and the amount of machining is required. IMPORTANT: Before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply automotive grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if either is dry, chances are, the driveshaft can bind up in the bushing, the clutch may not release, and cause wear to both the bushing and driveshaft.

Drive Clutch Assemblies for Cub Cadet "Original" Garden Tractor. Priced full length (without creeper drive) or short length (with creeper drive unit.) NOTE: Complete driveshaft assembly do not include the driveshaft bearing support assembly, clutch operating support, clutch shaft bearing retainer and collar, adjustment rod yoke end, clutch operating rod and transaxle input shaft coupler arm. And due to supply and demand, and different lengths and applications, I do not keep complete rebuilt clutch assemblies in stock. I build them as customers order them.

Rebuild YOUR clutch assembly for general lawn and garden use. $330.00±* each, including parts and labor, plus return shipping & handling. (When certain rebuild parts are available.)
With rebuildable core trade-in for general lawn and garden use. $380.00 each, plus return shipping & handling. (When certain rebuild parts are available.)
Outright with no core trade-in for general lawn and garden use. $450.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When certain rebuild parts are available.)
Rebuild YOUR clutch assembly for heavy towing and/or competition pulling. $580.00±* each, including parts and labor, plus return shipping & handling. (When certain rebuild parts are available.)

Drive Clutch Assemblies for Narrow Frame Cub Cadet Garden Tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124 and 126. Priced full length (without creeper drive) or short length (with creeper drive unit.) And due to supply and demand, and different lengths and applications, I do not keep complete rebuilt clutch assemblies in stock. I build them as customers order them.

Rebuild YOUR clutch assembly for general lawn and garden use. $180.00±* each, including parts and labor, plus return shipping & handling.
With rebuildable core trade-in for general lawn and garden use. $250.00 each, plus return shipping & handling. (When certain rebuild parts are available.)
Outright with no core trade-in for general lawn and garden use. $280.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When certain rebuild parts are available.)
Rebuild YOUR clutch assembly for heavy towing and/or competition pulling. $330.00±* each, including parts and labor, plus return shipping & handling.

Drive Clutch Assemblies for Cub Cadet Wide Frame Garden Tractor models 80, 108 and 128. Priced full length (without creeper drive) or short length (with creeper drive unit.) And due to supply and demand, and different lengths and applications, I do not keep complete rebuilt clutch assemblies in stock. I build them as customers order them.

Rebuild YOUR clutch assembly for general lawn and garden use. $200.00±* each, including parts and labor, plus return shipping & handling.
With rebuildable core trade-in for general lawn and garden use. $270.00 each, plus return shipping & handling. (When certain rebuild parts are available.)
Outright with no core trade-in for general lawn and garden use. $300.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When certain rebuild parts are available.)
Rebuild YOUR clutch assembly for heavy towing and/or competition pulling. $350.00±* each, including parts and labor, plus return shipping & handling.

Drive Clutch Assemblies for Cub Cadet Wide Frame Garden Tractor models 800, 1000 and 1200. Priced full length (without creeper drive) or short length (with creeper drive unit.) And due to supply and demand, and different lengths and applications, I do not keep complete rebuilt clutch assemblies in stock. I build them as customers order them.

Rebuild YOUR clutch assembly for general lawn and garden use. $220.00±* each, including parts and labor, plus return shipping & handling.
With rebuildable core trade-in for general lawn and garden use. $290.00 each, plus return shipping & handling. (When certain rebuild parts are available.)
Outright with no core trade-in for general lawn and garden use. $320.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When certain rebuild parts are available.)
Rebuild YOUR clutch assembly for heavy towing and/or competition pulling. $370.00±* each, including parts and labor, plus return shipping & handling.

Drive Clutch Assemblies for Cub Cadet Spread Frame Garden Tractor models 580, 582, 1250, 1450, 1650 (models with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment), 1604, 1606 and 1806. Priced full length (without creeper drive) or short length (with creeper drive unit.) And due to supply and demand, and different lengths and applications, I do not keep complete rebuilt clutch assemblies in stock. I build them as customers order them.

Rebuild YOUR clutch assembly for general lawn and garden use. $200.00±* each, including parts and labor, plus return shipping & handling.
With rebuildable core trade-in for general lawn and garden use. $270.00 each, plus return shipping & handling. (When certain rebuild parts are available.)
Outright with no core trade-in for general lawn and garden use. $300.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When certain rebuild parts are available.)
Rebuild YOUR clutch assembly for heavy towing and/or competition pulling. $350.00±* each, including parts and labor, plus return shipping & handling.

Drive Clutch Assemblies to Replace or Convert [to Clutch Drive] Cub Cadet Spread Frame models 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 882, 982, 984, 986, 1050, 1202, 1204, 1210, 1282, 1340, 1440, 1512, 1535, 1541, 1572, 1604, 1606, 1641, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1772, 1782, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1860, 1861, 1862, 1863, 1864, 1872, 1882, 1912, 1914, 2072, 2082, 2086, 2182 and 2284. Priced full length (without creeper drive) or short length (with creeper drive unit.) 3-pin drive plate, hanger bracket and adjustment rod/spring to convert a hydrostatic drive into the clutch drive is extra charge. And due to supply and demand, and different lengths and applications, I do not keep complete rebuilt clutch assemblies in stock. I build them as customers order them.

Rebuild YOUR clutch assembly for general lawn and garden use. $200.00±* each, including parts and labor, plus return shipping & handling.
With rebuildable core trade-in for general lawn and garden use. $270.00 each, plus return shipping & handling. (When certain rebuild parts are available.)
Outright with no core trade-in for general lawn and garden use. $300.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When certain rebuild parts are available.)
Rebuild YOUR clutch assembly for heavy towing and/or competition pulling. $350.00±* each, including parts and labor, plus return shipping & handling.

Drive Clutch Assembly for Cub Cadet Spread Frame Garden Tractor model 1050. Priced full length (without creeper drive) or short length (with creeper drive unit.) And due to supply and demand, and different lengths and applications, I do not keep complete rebuilt clutch assemblies in stock. I build them as customers order them.

Rebuild YOUR clutch assembly for general lawn and garden use. $250.00±* each, including parts and labor, plus return shipping & handling.
With rebuildable core trade-in for general lawn and garden use. $320.00 each, plus return shipping & handling. (When certain rebuild parts are available.)
Outright with no core trade-in for general lawn and garden use. $350.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When certain rebuild parts are available.)
Rebuild YOUR clutch assembly for heavy towing and/or competition pulling. $400.00±* each, including parts and labor, plus return shipping & handling.

A-1 Miller's Professional Rebuild/Repair Service for MTD Farm King model 960 Drive Clutch Assembly. Rebuild/repair price varies depending on which parts needs to be replaced and/or repaired. Rebuild/repair service also includes reconditioning the Peerless right angle gearbox for long service. $400.00 - $900.00 for parts and labor. Extra charge for return shipping & handling.

A-1 Miller's Professional Rebuild/Repair Service for Peerless (or Other Make) Right Angle Gearbox for the Mower Deck or Cub Cadet belt-drive garden tractor models 482, 580, 582 Special, 1100, 1204 and 1604 with the Peerless model 2300 transaxle. We also rebuild/repair most other makes and models of right angle gearboxes used in garden tractors, installed on mower decks and used elsewhere, as long as replacement parts are available. Repair price varies depending on which parts needs to be replaced and/or repaired. $100.00 - $350.00+ for parts and labor. Extra charge for return shipping & handling.

3-pin drive plate OEM Cub Cadet 3-pin Solid Clutch Drive Plate. Designed for IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 108, 122, 124, 126 and 128 with the solid-mounted engine. These models have the engine fastened directly to the frame with no rubber motor mounts. If you want to use this type of drive plate in a "Quiet Line" model 800, 1000 or 1200 with the ISO-mounted engine, then a set of A-1 Miller's solid motor mounts must also be installed, making the clutch/driveshaft assembly rigid throughout so less wear will occur to the clutch assembly. IMPORTANT: It's highly recommended that your OEM pressure plates be trued-up (and resurfaced) in a metal lathe to prevent premature wearing of the new pilot bushing in the drive plate and holes in the clutch disc. And before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply automotive grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if either is dry, chances are, the driveshaft can bind up in the bushing, the clutch may not release, and cause wear to both the bushing and driveshaft.

Used and in excellent condition. $75.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
New. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-384652-R12. $205.60 each, plus shipping & handling.

Cub Cadet 3-pin Flexible Clutch Drive Plate. Designed for IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractor "Quiet Line" models 800, 1000 and 1200, including models 1250, 1450 and 1650 with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment. All these models have a rubber ISO-mounted engine to reduce vibration throughout the tractor for operator comfort. FYI - To maintain balance of this particular drive plate, one spiral pin is longer than the other two. Do not grind it down! NOTE: If this particular drive plate keeps breaking just after a few years of use, then this means the OEM pressure plates are definitely out-of-balance, and needs to be trued-up (and resurfaced) in a metal lathe. It'll also be best to install a set of A-1 Miller's solid motor mounts and a solid clutch drive plate (listed above) to make the clutch/driveshaft assembly rigid throughout so less wear will occur to the clutch assembly to lessen chances of repeated breakage. IMPORTANT: It's highly recommended that your OEM pressure plates be trued-up (and resurfaced) in a metal lathe to prevent premature wearing of the new pilot bushing in the drive plate and holes in the clutch disc. And before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply automotive grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if either is dry, chances are, the driveshaft can bind up in the bushing, the clutch may not release, and cause wear to both the bushing and driveshaft. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet flexible drive plate part # IH-106545-C93.

Used and in excellent condition. OEM Cub Cadet IH-117591-C1. $100.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
New. OEM Cub Cadet IH-117591-C1. $209.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Weld the Spiral Pin Collars to the Drive Plate on YOUR OEM IH Cub Cadet Drive Plate. This adds approximately 85% more strength to prevent from bending or flexing of drive plate while under severe strain from heavy duty use or competition pulling. Labor includes true-up drive plate in metal lathe to remove wobble or run-out to reduce vibration. We always perform this repair to a customer's drive plate, as part of the complete clutch rebuild. IMPORTANT: It's highly recommended that your OEM pressure plates be trued-up (and resurfaced) in a metal lathe to prevent premature wearing of the new pilot bushing in the drive plate and holes in the clutch disc. And before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply automotive grease to inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if either is dry, chances are, the driveshaft can bind up in the bushing, the clutch may not release, and cause wear to both the bushing and driveshaft. An original, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this type of service.

$30.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling.

A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Repair your OEM IH Cub Cadet garden tractor 3-pin clutch drive plate when the three OEM drive pin collar(s) are broken off with three or six hardened steel drive studs. No need to purchase another drive plate. Work includes true-up drive plate in metal lathe to remove wobble or run-out to reduce vibration and for precision alignment installation of drive studs. I can also do this to repair a customer's drive plate, as part of the clutch rebuild. IMPORTANT: It's highly recommended that your OEM pressure plates be trued-up (and resurfaced) in a metal lathe to prevent premature wearing of the new pilot bushing in the drive plate and holes in the clutch disc. And before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply automotive grease to inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if either is dry, chances are, the driveshaft can bind up in the bushing, the clutch may not release, and cause wear to both the bushing and driveshaft. An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this type of service.

$60.00, includes 3 drive studs and labor, plus return shipping & handling.

A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Repair Worn Over-Size Pilot Bushing Hole in YOUR IH Cub Cadet Drive Plate or Bushing in YOUR Cub Cadet "Original" Garden Tractor Pulley/Clutch Disc for Installation of OEM-size Pilot Bushing. No need to purchase another drive plate. Work includes true-up drive plate in metal lathe to remove wobble or run-out to reduce vibration. I can also do this to repair a customer's drive plate, as part of the clutch rebuild. IMPORTANT: It's highly recommended that your OEM pressure plates be trued-up (and resurfaced) in a metal lathe to prevent premature wearing of the new pilot bushing in the drive plate and holes in the clutch disc. And before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply automotive grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if either is dry, chances are, the driveshaft can bind up in the bushing, the clutch may not release, and cause wear to both the bushing and driveshaft. An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this type of service.

$35.00 for parts and labor, plus return shipping & handling.

A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Convert your OEM IH or MTD Cub Cadet clutch drive plate from 3-pin (IH) or 3-stud (MTD) to 3-pin/3-stud or 6-stud. Work includes true-up plate in metal lathe to remove wobble or run-out to reduce vibration, precision drill 3 new holes in exact spacing of OEM pins or studs, and then install 3 additional hardened steel studs, lock washers and nuts. I can also do this to repair a customer's drive plate, as part of the clutch rebuild. NOTE: Clutch disc must be precision-drilled with 3 additional holes to accept the 3 additional drive studs. IMPORTANT: It's highly recommended that your OEM pressure plates be trued-up (and resurfaced) in a metal lathe to prevent premature wearing of the new pilot bushing in the drive plate and holes in the clutch disc. And before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply automotive grease to inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if either is dry, chances are, the driveshaft can bind up in the bushing, the clutch may not release, and cause wear to both the bushing and driveshaft. A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.) $60.00 each drive plate, includes parts and labor, plus return shipping & handling.

Clutch Drive Studs w/nuts and split lock washers for Cub Cadet garden tractors. IMPORTANT: It's highly recommended that your OEM pressure plates be trued-up (and resurfaced) in a metal lathe to prevent premature wearing of the new pilot bushing and drive pins in the drive plate, and holes in the clutch disc.

High Quality Aftermarket Clutch Drive Studs w/nuts and split lock washers for a Single Clutch Disc Setup. For general yard and garden work, or competition stock tractor pulling. Made of hardened steel. A-1 Miller's part. Dimensions: 3/8" diameter x 1-1/2" length (measured from drive plate to end of stud). Replaces Cub Cadet part # 911-3043. $30.00 set of 3, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Clutch Drive Studs w/nuts and split lock washers for a Double Clutch Disc Setup. For competition pulling only. Made of hardened steel. A-1 Miller's part. Dimensions: 3/8" diameter x 1-875" length (measured from drive plate to end of stud). Replaces Cub Cadet part # 911-3043. $60.00 set of 6, plus shipping & handling.
OEM Cub Cadet Clutch Drive Stud. Nut not included. Dimensions: 3/8" diameter x 1-1/2" length. OEM Cub Cadet part # 911-3043. $52.10 each, plus shipping & handling.

NOTE: Adding three additional clutch drive studs is something that must be performed with precision machining. To install three additional clutch drive studs in the OEM clutch drive plate and have them perfectly aligned with the OEM drive pins and the three extra holes in the clutch disc, and to prevent the pins from being out of balance (out of circle) and to prevent wobble, the holes in the plate (and clutch disc) will need to be drilled using a Super Spacer or Rotary Table that's fastened to the table of a milling machine. Each hole must be drilled precisely at 2.5625" out from dead center and spaced exactly at 90º from the original drive pins. This will allow the 3 extra drive studs (and holes in clutch disc) to be positioned in exact alignment with the OEM pins. Just like the wheel studs on an automobile. If you want, I can professionally install three extra drive studs in your clutch drive plate and drill three extra matching holes in your clutch disc for $45.00 labor, which includes the 3 drive studs, plus return shipping & handling. I will need your clutch drive plate and clutch disc, too.

Driveshafts for IH Cub Cadet "Original" Garden Tractor. NOTE: These driveshafts, with the OEM factory designed machined-down 3/8" diameter support end, are originally used with Cub Cadet coupler arm with the 25/64" center hole (part # 759-3009). But with a 5/8" diameter support end (A-1 Miller's improved design), the driveshaft can be used instead with Cub Cadet coupler arm with the 5/8" center hole (part # 748-3001). Due to the increase in material, less wear will occur to the end of the driveshaft and hole in the coupler arm. Available only in stress proof steel. Please indicate with 3/8" or 5/8" stub end. Driveshafts comes with flat steel coupler arm welded to shaft and coiled/spiral pin holes drilled. Coiled/Spiral pins listed below.

High Strength 1144 Stress-Proof Steel Driveshaft(95,000 P.S.I. strength). When ordering, please specify with or without creeper drive. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-376255-R11.(Part number listed is without creeper drive; no part number available for driveshaft with creeper drive.) $60.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
New. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-376255-R11. (Part number listed is without creeper drive; no part number available for driveshaft with creeper drive.) $145.60 each, plus shipping & handling.

Driveshafts for IH- and MTD-built Cub Cadet Clutch Drive Garden Tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 106, 108, 122, 124, 126, 128, 580, 582, 800, 1000, 1050, 1200, 1604, 1606 and 1806, including models 1250, 1450 and 1650 with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment. NOTE: These driveshafts are made to order. When ordering, please specify model of Cub Cadet and possibly exact length and exactly where the coiled/spiral pin holes needs to be drilled. Please indicate if you want the 3rd hole drilled for the main pressure spring or if you are going to use a split clamping/locking collar instead. For competition pulling, it is recommended that a split clamping/locking collar be used. Driveshafts for double composite clutch discs are available. For a tractor without a driveshaft/clutch assembly, to determine the exact length of the driveshaft, with engine fastened to the tractor frame, measure between the end of the crankshaft threads or bolt head to the input shaft in the transaxle (or creeper drive input shaft), then subtract 1/4". This will allow an 1/8" clearance on each end. Driveshafts for hydrostatic drive Cub Cadets are also available listed below. Ê IMPORTANT: Before installing the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, if the drive plate has a bronze pilot bushing, apply clean automotive grease inside the bushing and on the front of the driveshaft. Because if it's installed dry, the driveshaft may not release, it can bind up and cause wear to both the bushing and driveshaft. No grease is required on the driveshaft if a radial ball bearing is installed the drive plate. Coiled/Spiral pins listed below.

High Strength 1144 Stress-Proof Driveshaft. (95,000 P.S.I. strength.) Up to 20" in length with no holes drilled; customer cuts shaft to length and drills own holes. $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Strength 1144 Stress-Proof Driveshaft. (95,000 P.S.I. strength.) With 1/4" coiled/spiral pin holes drilled and chamfered in stock locations unless otherwise specified, with the exception of the 3rd hole which is optional for use with a split clamping/locking collar. Please specify model of Cub Cadet when ordering. Replaces Cub Cadet part #'s IH-385982-R91 and IH-385982-R91. $50.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
New OEM Driveshaft for Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124 and 126. Cub Cadet part # IH-385982-R91. $174.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
New OEM Driveshaft for Cub Cadet garden tractor models 86, 108 and 128. Cub Cadet part # IH-545492-R91. $148.15 each, plus shipping & handling.
New OEM Driveshaft for Cub Cadet garden tractor models 800, 1000 and 1200, including models 1250, 1450 and 1650 with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment. Cub Cadet part # IH-61454-C94. $162.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
New OEM Driveshaft for Cub Cadet clutch drive garden tractor models 580, 582, 1604, 1606 and 1806. Cub Cadet part # IH-223276-C1. $236.45 each, plus shipping & handling.

Ultra Tough 304 Alloy Stainless Steel Driveshaft. (130,000 P.S.I. strength; recommended for tractors with a diesel engine.) Up to 20" in length with no holes for drilled. (Customer cuts shaft to length and drills own holes.) $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Ultra Tough 304 Alloy Stainless Steel Driveshaft. (130,000 P.S.I. strength; recommended for tractors with a diesel engine.) With 1/4" coiled/spiral pin holes drilled and chamfered in stock locations unless otherwise specified, with the exception of the 3rd hole which is optional for use with two split clamping/locking collars. Please specify model of Cub Cadet when ordering. Replaces Cub Cadet part #'s IH-385982-R91 and IH-385982-R91. $85.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Driveshafts for IH Cub Cadet Hydrostatic Drive Garden Tractor models 105, 107, 109, 123, 125, 127, 129, 147, 109, 129, 149 and 169. NOTE: These driveshafts, with the OEM factory designed machined-down 3/8" diameter support end, are originally used with Cub Cadet coupler arm with the 25/64" center hole (part # 759-3009). But with a 5/8" diameter support end (A-1 Miller's improved design), the driveshaft can be used instead with Cub Cadet coupler arm with the 5/8" center hole (part # 748-3001). Due to the increase in material, less wear will occur to the end of the driveshaft and hole in the coupler arm. Available only in stress proof steel. Driveshaft comes with flat steel coupler arm welded to shaft and coiled/spiral pin holes drilled. Please indicate with 3/8" or 5/8" stub end. Please specify with or without creeper drive. Coiled/Spiral pins listed below.

High Strength 1144 Stress Proof Steel Driveshaft. (95,000 P.S.I. strength.) When ordering, please specify model of tractor and if a 3/8" or 5/8" stub end is desired. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-397373-R2 for models 105, 107, 123, 125, 127, 147; and part # IH-545511-R1 for models 109, 129, 149 and 169. $60.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
New OEM Driveshaft for models 105, 107, 123, 125, 127 and 147. Cub Cadet part # IH-397373-R2. $148.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
New OEM Driveshaft for models 109, 129, 149 and 169. Cub Cadet part # IH-545511-R1. $96.10 each, plus shipping & handling.
New OEM Driveshaft for models 682, 782, 782D, 784, 1541, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1810, 1811, 1812 and 1860. Cub Cadet part # IH-132441-C2. $89.10 each, plus shipping & handling.

Driveshafts for IH Cub Cadet Hydrostatic Drive Garden Tractor models 1250, 1450 and 1650. Coiled/Spiral pins listed below.

High Strength 1144 Stress Proof Steel Driveshaft. (95,000 P.S.I. strength.) With no holes drilled; customer drills own holes. $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Strength 1144 Stress Proof Steel Driveshaft. (95,000 P.S.I. strength.) With 1/4" coiled/spiral pin holes drilled and chamfered in stock locations unless otherwise specified. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-140079-C1.$35.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
New OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-140079-C1. $87.20 each, plus shipping & handling.

Ultra Tough 304 Alloy Stainless Steel Driveshaft. (130,000 P.S.I. strength; recommended for tractors with a diesel engine.) With no holes drilled; customer drills own holes. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Ultra Tough 304 Alloy Stainless Steel Driveshaft. (130,000 P.S.I. strength; recommended for tractors with a diesel engine.) With 1/4" coiled/spiral pin holes drilled and chamfered in stock locations unless otherwise specified. $85.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Driveshafts for Cub Cadet Garden Tractor models 482, 580, 582 Special, 1100, 1204, 1604 1606 and 1806. (Belt Drive; Engine to Right Angle Gearbox w/Peerless model 2300 transaxle.) Coiled/Spiral pins listed below.

High Strength 1144 Stress Proof Steel Driveshaft. (95,000 P.S.I. strength.) With no holes drilled; customer drills own holes. $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Strength 1144 Stress Proof Steel Driveshaft. (95,000 P.S.I. strength.) With 1/4" coiled/spiral pin holes drilled and chamfered in stock locations unless otherwise specified. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part #'s 738-3000 (482 and 1204), IH-79998-C1 (580, 582 Special and 1604) and IH-132444-C1 (1100). $35.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Ultra Tough 304 Alloy Stainless Steel Driveshaft. (130,000 P.S.I. strength.) With no holes drilled; customer drills own holes. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Ultra Tough 304 Alloy Stainless Steel Driveshaft. (130,000 P.S.I. strength.) With 1/4" coiled/spiral pin holes drilled and chamfered in stock locations unless otherwise specified. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part #'s 738-3000 (482 and 1204), IH-79998-C1 (580, 582 Special and 1604) and IH-132444-C1 (1100). $85.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Driveshafts for MTD-built Cub Cadet Hydrostatic Drive Garden Tractor models 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 882, 982, 1210, 1211, 1282, 1512, 1541, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1810, 1811, 1812 and 1860. Coiled/Spiral pins listed below.

High Strength 1144 Stress Proof Steel Driveshaft. (95,000 P.S.I. strength.) With no holes drilled; customer drills own holes. $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Strength 1144 Stress Proof Steel Driveshaft. (95,000 P.S.I. strength.) With 1/4" coiled/spiral pin holes drilled and chamfered in stock locations unless otherwise specified. When ordering, please specify model of Cub Cadet. $35.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
New OEM Driveshaft for models 680, 1210, 1211 and 1282. Cub Cadet part # IH-140079-C1. $87.25 each, plus shipping & handling.
New OEM Driveshaft for models 682, 782, 782D, 784, 982, 1541, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1860. Cub Cadet part # 738-3011. $89.10 each, plus shipping & handling.
New OEM Driveshaft for models 782D, 882, 1512. Cub Cadet part # 738-3051. $68.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Ultra Tough 304 Alloy Stainless Steel Driveshaft. (130,000 P.S.I. strength; recommended for tractors with a diesel engine.) With no holes drilled; customer drills own holes. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Ultra Tough 304 Alloy Stainless Steel Driveshaft. (130,000 P.S.I. strength; recommended for tractors with a diesel engine.) With 1/4" coiled/spiral pin holes drilled and chamfered in stock locations unless otherwise specified. When ordering, please specify model of Cub Cadet. $85.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Driveshafts for MTD-built Cub Cadet Hydrostatic Drive Garden Tractor models 1872 and 2072. (Available only in stress proof steel.) Coiled/Spiral pins listed below.

High Strength 1144 Stress Proof Steel Driveshaft. (95,000 P.S.I. strength.) With no holes drilled; customer drills own holes. $50.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Strength 1144 Stress Proof Steel Driveshaft. (95,000 P.S.I. strength.) With 3/8" coiled/spiral pin holes and hole for cooling fan drilled and chamfered in stock locations. Replaces Cub Cadet part # 738-3064. $75.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
New. OEM Cub Cadet part # 738-3064. $146.35 each, plus shipping & handling.

Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page]

Replacement Coiled/Spiral Pins for Cub Cadet Driveshafts and 3-Pin Clutch Drive Plate. Each made of high strength, heat treated, hardened carbon steel. Minimum Rockwell hardness is C42. NOTE: The driveshafts with or without a creeper drive use the same number of coiled/spiral pins. There's two for the pressure plates (1-1/2" length), one behind the main pressure spring (1" length), and two in the rear coupler (1" length for the small diameter coupler, or 1-1/2" length for the large diameter coupler). NOTE - On the narrow frame Cub Cadets, a grade 8 bolt w/locknut can be used to connect the coupler to the input shaft in the transaxle for much easier installation and removal. [Return To Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]
3/16" Diameter Heavy Duty Coiled/Spiral Pins for IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor driveshaft. 3,100 P.S.I. breaking strength.

3/16" diameter x 1-1/2" length. For front pressure plate. .75¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
3/16" diameter x 1" length. For splined carrier and behind main pressure spring (hole must be drilled exactly to 3/16".) .75¢ each, plus shipping & handling.

1/4" Diameter Heavy Duty Coiled/Spiral Pins for all other models of Cub Cadet garden tractor driveshafts. 6,500 P.S.I. breaking strength.

1/4" diameter x 1" length. For behind main pressure spring and small O.D. rear coupler or coupler arm. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
1/4" diameter x 1-1/2" length. For both pressure plates and large O.D. rear coupler. $1.25 each, plus shipping & handling.

3/8" Diameter x 1-1/2" Length Heavy Duty Coiled/Spiral Pins for OEM Cub Cadet 3-pin clutch drive plate and drag link steering arm on all narrow frame Cub Cadets, and driveshaft for Cub Cadet garden tractor models 1872 and 2072. 12,600 P.S.I. breaking strength. NOTE: The holes in the drag link arm and spindle shaft may need to be drilled (enlarged) exactly to 3/8" (.375") for this pin to fit snug. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Cub Cadet Hydrostatic Drive Cooling Fans listed below. Replace the OEM nylon cooling fan with broken blade(s) or a slipping OEM cooling fan (on the driveshaft) to prevent overheating and burning up of the hydrostatic drive unit. IMPORTANT - Be sure to clean any debris from the hydro unit once a year too, for maximum cooling. FYI - Heat radiating (especially in the summertime) from the hydrostatic pump after long use when the tractor is shut down causes the nylon cooling fan on the driveshaft to eventually harden and become brittle, which could cause the blade(s) to break off when the tractor is in use. Then the out-of-balance fan causes the driveshaft to wobble, which causes the rubber flex coupler disc(s) to wear and/or cause the bronze pilot bushings on the ends of the shaft to wear oblong and possibly cause the driveshaft to bend. The only way to prevent this from happening is to install a [clockwise rotating] aluminum cooling fan of the appropriate diameter with a steel fabricated hub adapter. [Top of Page]

5-1/2" Diameter Nylon Hydrostatic Drive Cooling Fan. Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 105, 107, 123, 125 and 147 with a 5/8" driveshaft. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-394065-R92. $23.20 each, plus shipping & handling.

5" Diameter Nylon Hydrostatic Drive Cooling Fan. Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 109, 129, 149, 169, 1250, 1450 and 1650 with a 5/8" driveshaft. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-547749-R2. $19.10 each, plus shipping & handling.

7" Diameter Nylon Hydrostatic Drive Cooling Fan. Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 882, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1282, 1512, 1711, 1712, 1810, 1811, 1812 and 1860 with a 5/8" driveshaft. OEM Cub Cadet part # 931-3009. $26.35 each, plus shipping & handling.

7" Diameter Nylon Hydrostatic Drive Cooling Fan. Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 982, 984, 986, 1872, 1912, 1914 and 2072 with a 3/4" driveshaft. OEM Cub Cadet part # 931-3013. $49.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

7" Diameter Nylon Hydrostatic Drive Cooling Fan. Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 1340, 1440, 1541, 1641, 1782, 1860, 1861, 1863, 1864, 1882, 2082, 2084, 2086, 2130, 2135, 2140, 2145, 2150, 2155, 2160, 2164, 2165, 2182, 2185, 2185, 2284, 3165, 3185, 3186, 3205 and 3225 with a 3/4" driveshaft. OEM Cub Cadet part # 931-3095. $27.15 each, plus shipping & handling.

IMPORTANT! Do this only if the front axle has been moved forward -

Engine Mounting/Frame Steel Reinforcement Plates On the narrow frame Cub Cadets, if the front axle has been moved forward, reinforce the frame rails where the engine mounting holes are to reduce normal high-RPM engine vibration travel that could lead to both frame and driveshaft breakage. To do so, stiffen the frame rails where the engine mounting bolt holes are by welding two 1/4" thick steel plates under the frame. Longer engine mounting bolts must be used, too. The reason for this is because when the front axle center support is moved, the remaining frame material isn't thick enough to hold up to the engine vibration.

For the spread frame models with the ISO (rubber) motor mounts, replace the rubber mounts with a set of our solid steel motor mounts or remove the brackets and fabricate a minimum 1/4" thick plate steel, set it at the right height and weld it to the frame. But the engine mounting holes and oil drain plug hole must be properly located (centered) and drilled in the plate first. This is much easier to do on a platform work table than on the floor or ground. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]

Cub Cadet Engine Mounting Brackets and Plates:

How to Remove the Driveshaft/Clutch Assembly from a Cub Cadet: (This is much easier to do on a platform work table than on the floor or ground.)

Remove the engine. The 3-pin clutch drive plate remains on the engine and it slides out of the driveshaft and clutch disc when the engine is removed.
Unfasten the clutch release lever from the frame and clutch adjustment/release rod.
There's a coiled/spiral pin in the tubular or flex arm driveshaft coupler that fastens onto the input shaft in the transaxle. Remove it by using a 1/4" coiled/spiral pin punch and a medium sized hammer.
The coiled/spiral pin in the input shaft on the transaxle of a narrow frame Cub Cadet garden tractor can be very difficult to remove and somewhat difficult to access from underneath. Therefore, it's recommended that a 1" hole should be drilled through the top of a short tunnel cover (center section of the tractor frame), or through the side of a tall tunnel cover in direct alignment with the coiled/spiral pin, then use a long 1/4" roll pin punch and medium size hammer to drive the pin from the coupler. Don't attempt to drill-out the coiled/spiral pin. They're just as hard as a high quality drill bit. After the pin is removed and the clutch assembly is rebuilt, upon reinstallation in the tractor, use a socket in the drilled hole to fasten a hardened steel 1/4" diameter [grade 8 or Allen head] bolt in the coupler. For cosmetic purpose, hide the drilled hole with a 1" plastic or metal hole plug. Just push the plug in the hole for a nice distinctive look. And sometimes when driving out the coiled/spiral pin, the pounding will bend the input shaft in the transaxle. If this happens, the input shaft will need to be straightened (and hope it doesn't break later because the metal has been weakened) or a good used input shaft will need to be installed. This is why it's highly recommended that a hardened steel 1/4" bolt/lock nut be used in the coupler in place of the coiled/spiral pin because if the driveshaft ever needs to be removed again, removing a bolt/lock nut would be a lot easier than driving out a stubborn coiled/spiral pin. Plus, it'll be easier on your nerves and on the input shaft.
The driveshaft assembly then slides out of the tractor.

How to Disassemble the Clutch Components from the Driveshaft -

To disassemble the clutch components from the driveshaft, first place the front pressure plate hub on slightly open jaws of a bench vise, and use a quality-made 1/4" coiled/spiral pin punch and a medium size hammer to drive out the coiled/spiral pin. Then the pressure plates, clutch disc clutch release/throw-out bearing and pressure spring should all slide off the driveshaft.

Fasten the Coupler Arms Together To Make One Rigid Driveshaft Coupler -

Flex Coupler Arms Fastened Together With solid motor mounts installed in a Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" garden tractor that originally came with a rubber ISO-mounted engine, the driveshaft will not be able to "move" with the engine and there'll be less chance of clutch parts prematurely wearing or breaking. The flexible rubber disc(s) at the end of the driveshaft will be useless too, and could deteriorate over time. So instead of replacing the OEM coupler arms with a machined rigid tubular coupler, make the coupler arms rigid by removing the flexible rubber disc(s) and install a couple of 3/8" thickness spacers for a single disc, and a couple of 3/4" thickness spacers for double composite clutch discs, and fasten the arms together with a couple of 3/8" diameter hardened steel bolts. (Large nuts are used as spacers in the photo to the right.) By the way - one rubber flex disc is 3/8" thick. This setup is just as strong as using a rigid tubular coupler, and it cost a lot less.

IMPORTANT! If the outer parts of the two arms don't come together or meet when the bolts are tightened (be careful not to tighten the bolts too tight if the arms don't meet, they could break), a couple of thin flat washers may need to be added as shims next to the spacers. And before fastening the arms together with the spacers, first slide the arms on the driveshaft so they'll be in perfect alignment with each other, and tighten the bolts. See the photo to the right ->. Also, if you want, leave out the 5/8" diameter [swivel/spacer] steel ball. It'll serve no purpose when using solid motor mounts and when making the coupler arms rigid.

FYI - Many pullers convert the hydrostatic drive Cub Cadet garden tractor models 109, 129, 149 and 169 (wide frames with a solid mounted engine) and models 1250, 1450 and 1650 (wide frames with a rubber ISO-mounted engine) into a clutch drive tractor. All that's needed are the clutch assembly with the hanger bracket for the release lever and a complete transaxle out of a gear drive Cub Cadet garden tractor model 86, 108, 128 (wide frames with a solid mounted engine) or models 800, 1000 or 1200 (wide frames with a rubber ISO-mounted engine). A set of A-1 Miller's solid motor mounts will be also be needed if the tractor originally has the ISO rubber motor mounts. The braking mechanism, preferably the internal "wet" brake, out of a wide frame Cub Cadet will also be needed.

IMPORTANT! Do not fasten the two coupler arms directly together on the IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor because the driveshaft needs to move up or down to tighten the drive belt with the engine. Leave the flexible rubber disc in place, even for pulling competition. Or a 5/8" I.D. universal joint can be installed instead.

A rigid tubular rear driveshaft coupler with a worn center can be repaired by boring out the center and installing a press-fit steel sleeve. Then ream the sleeve to .626" for a slip-fit on the driveshaft. Then the holes for the coiled/spiral pins can be drilled. The boring and reaming process should be performed on a milling machine with a self-centering 3-jaw super spacer or in a metal lathe with a self-centering 3-jaw chuck. (IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable using a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist with a lathe.)

Installing a coiled/spiral pin in the rear of the driveshaft to connect the coupler to the input shaft on the transaxle of a Cub Cadet can be very difficult. To make it much easier, simply use a 1/4" grade 8 bolt instead. For strength, the shank (unthreaded part) of the bolt needs to have full contact with the coupler and driveshaft. And as long as the driveshaft is in correct alignment with the centerline of the crankshaft and transaxle input shaft, with the coiled/spiral pin holes in-line with each other, and not offset 90°, at around 4,000 RPM, this should not cause the driveshaft to "shake around" or vibrate whatsoever. At high RPM or at wide open throttle, a center support pillow block bearing and brace should be used midway on the driveshaft.

For pulling applications, rubber motor mounts (and the flexible coupler at the rear of the driveshaft) absorbs valuable horsepower, which must be transferred to the rear tires for full power to the track. The rubber motor mounts will also cause the engine to vibrate excessively at high RPM or at wide open throttle. Plus, with normal use of the tractor, rubber motor mounts could cause the flexible 3-pin drive plate and/or the driveshaft to eventually break. If a tractor that has rubber motor mounts and a flexible coupler is going to be used for competition pulling, definitely install some metal motor mounts.

The Correct Way to Drill a Hole for a Roll, Coiled or Spiral Pin so the Hole Will Not Be Too Big for the Pin -

First of all, when using a milling machine, use a spotting drill bit, or use a center punch or transfer punch to locate exactly where the hole needs to be drilled to prevent the drill bit from "skating" on the surface. This will position and guide the drill bit to bore EXACTLY where the hole needs to be drilled. And due to the natural expansion of a roll, coiled or coiled/spiral pin, ALWAYS drill the hole with a drill bit that's one size smaller than the actual size for the roll, coiled or coiled/spiral pin's size, to allow for sufficient compression of the pin when installed in the hole. For example: for a 1/4" roll, coiled or coiled/spiral pin, initially drill the hole with a 15/64" drill bit (one size smaller than the 1/4" drill bit), then finish enlarging the same hole with a 1/4" drill bit. Doing this will guarantee the hole will be EXACTLY 1/4" in diameter. If the hole is initially drilled with just the 1/4" bit, chances are, this will cause the hole to be wallowed out, making it too big for the 1/4" roll, coiled or coiled/spiral pin. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]

The main cause of breakage of the OEM Cub Cadet aluminum hub adapter on competition pulling engines that run at wide open throttle is using out-of-balance OEM clutch pressure plates and OEM 3-pin clutch drive plate, and/or not installing the large flat washer under the nut or bolt (as described below Ê). So as long as the clutch pressure plates and 3-pin clutch drive plate are trued-up in a unworn metal lathe to remove the run-out or wobble so they'll be precision balanced, this hub have been known to hold up very well even in a highly modified competition pulling tractor as long as the original 1/4" thick x no less than 1-1/4" O.D. flat washer is installed under the flywheel nut or bolt with hardened 1/4" bolts w/split lock washers to securely fasten the drive plate to the hub. Otherwise, it's pretty tough.

Separate the Brake and Clutch Operations - (This have been done by many professional pullers in the past.)

Cub Cadet garden tractors that have the brakes integrated with the clutch/brake pedal, when applying the brakes on a competition pulling tractor that has an extremely stiff clutch pressure spring (on the driveshaft), great effort is required (strong leg muscles) to overcome and compress the clutch spring before the brakes can be safely applied. When rolling the tractor off a trailer, this also requires even greater effort to depress the clutch/brake pedal to apply the brakes especially by hand (and arm muscles). What can be done to change this is separate the brake(s) and the clutch operations by disconnecting the brake linkage from the clutch/brake pedal cross shaft, and fabricate a long upright lever (with an adjustable linkage) on the right side of the steering column support pedestal which can be easily and effortlessly pulled back (rearward) by hand to apply the brakes. The clutch/brake pedal will then become just a "clutch pedal," and the lever will be the "brake lever." This would make it much safer and easier to fully stop or slow the tractor down a steep hill or when unloading the tractor down the ramp(s) of a utility trailer or platform work table than on the floor or ground. Also, a "parking brake" lock mechanism can be installed on the brake lever-to-tractor frame to securely lock the brakes in position to prevent the tractor from rolling or coasting when the tractor is out of gear and the engine running.

If an OEM 3-pin clutch drive plate is bent next to the drive studs (MTD) or coiled/spiral pin collars (IH), to fix this:

Straighten the pins/collars with a hammer the best you can. Place a clutch disc with unworn holes over the pins to ensure they're properly straightened.
Securely weld each collar to the plate. Try to apply an even amount of weld around each collar for proper balance and to reduce vibration. It's also a good idea to weld the collars on a drive plate that's not bent, to ensure it will not get bent in the future.
True all rotating clutch parts (drive plate and pressure plates) in a metal lathe that has a 3-jaw self-centering scroll chuck to reduce vibration, wear on the pilot bushing and possible driveshaft breakage at high RPM or at wide open throttle. Because new OEM Cub Cadet pressure plates are made of stamped steel and are not machined whatsoever. This means they are not perfectly flat and they wobble from the factory. If used pressure plates have not been resurfaced before, then chances are, they'll still be thick enough after being resurfaced. Always remove the minimal amount of metal to retain maximum thickness so they will not warp when hot. (IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable using a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist with a lathe.)

If the bronze pilot bushing in a drive plate is excessively worn, this means that the pressure plates are badly out of balance and/or there was no grease applied to the bushing or on the driveshaft before installation of the clutch assembly in the tractor. In either case, resurface the pressure plates until they're perfectly flat and true-up the edge to prevent wobble in a metal lathe. IMPORTANT: To ensure true flatness when resurfacing pressure plates, use a lathe that's in good condition with very little wear on the ways! (IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable using a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist with a lathe.)

Resurfacing and Truing Up Worn and Warped Pressure Plates -

For any clutch disc to adhere or grip well and to prevent slippage, both pressure plates must be resurfaced until they're perfectly flat in a metal lathe. (IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable using a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist with a lathe.) The outer edge should be trued-up too, to prevent wobble, which can cause the pilot bushing to wear excessively. For a used clutch assembly, chances are, the composite clutch disc is worn to match the wear on the pressure plates. If the clutch disc is worn, but still reusable, it can be resurfaced until perfectly flat in the lathe as well. For best clutch adhesion and to lessen the chance of slippage, the clutch-to-pressure plates surface contact areas must be flat against flat for 100% contact. Because new OEM Cub Cadet pressure plates are made of stamped steel and are not machined whatsoever. This means they are not perfectly flat and they wobble from the factory. If used pressure plates have not been resurfaced before, then chances are, they'll still be thick enough after being resurfaced. Always remove the minimal amount of metal to retain maximum thickness so they will not warp when hot.

NOTE: Before reassembling the clutch assembly, apply a thin coat of automotive grease on the area of the driveshaft where the throw-out bearing and where the rear pressure plate slides back and forth. The grease will assure full clutch disengagement, lessen wear to the driveshaft, and it will prevent the rear pressure plate from sticking to the driveshaft due to rust if the tractor is stored in a damp environment. Also, while the rear pressure plate is off the driveshaft, to prevent it from binding on the 2^nd coiled/spiral pin, which can prevent the clutch from disengaging, widen the slot slightly with a flat file or on the edge of the blade on a chopsaw. (Be sure to wear safety glasses!) And it'll be a good idea to drill a small hole near the center of the rear pressure plate to relieve the air that can get trapped between the pressure plates.

Warped pressure plates will eventually allow a single or even double clutch setup to slip. They warp due to overheating when "slipping the clutch". When they get warped, they don't make full contact with the entire surface of the clutch disc. Whenever a new clutch disc is installed, rather if it's an OEM one or made of aluminum, the pressure plates should always be resurfaced until perfectly flat and trued up in a metal lathe. (IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable using a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist with a lathe.) New OEM Cub Cadet pressure plates are stamped in a press and not machined in a lathe. This means they're not as flat or turn as true as ones that's been machined in a lathe. Therefore, if new or used pressure plates are going to be used for pulling or heavy lawn and garden use, have the outer edge trued up and have the clutch contact area resurfaced until perfectly flat in a metal lathe. Because new OEM Cub Cadet pressure plates are made of stamped steel and are not machined whatsoever. This means they are not perfectly flat and they wobble from the factory. If used pressure plates have not been resurfaced before, then chances are, they'll still be thick enough after being resurfaced. Always remove the minimal amount of metal to retain maximum thickness so they will not warp when hot.

The OEM Cub Cadet pressure plates are 3/16" (.188") thick. On the average, approximately .005" of metal is removed from the face of each pressure plate after it has been resurfaced until perfectly flat. Removing this much metal will not weaken the plates whatsoever, even when used with a very stout pressure spring.

With both pressure plates properly resurfaced until perfectly flat, the OEM composite clutch, with 4-1/2" diameter pressure plates, has a total disc to plate contact area of 17.7 square inches. The aluminum disc on the other hand (as described in this web site), has a total contact area of 29.8 square inches. You may look at this disc and ask, "where's the friction material?" Well, the aluminum itself is the friction material. The aluminum disc will adhere to (grip) steel a lot better than a composite clutch disc. Both of these type of clutch types, when used with a high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring, have been proven to hold very well in heavy pulling. IMPORTANT: To ensure true flatness when resurfacing pressure plates, use a lathe that's in good condition with very little wear on the ways!

Save the Hubs!

If the discs in your pressure plates are heavily rusted, worn too thin or warped badly and resurfacing them in a lathe didn't do any good, instead of making two entirely new pressure plates, what could be done is remove the center hub from each disc with a hydraulic press and reuse the hubs to make two new pressure plates. This would save from having to fabricate a couple of new hubs.

If the center hole in the slotted hub of the rear [sliding] pressure plate is worn oblong (rare), the hole can be repaired by boring it true in a metal lathe, and a steel sleeve bushing will need to be pressed in and welded in to prevent it from coming loose, and the hole in the bushing will need to be center-bored to .626". The slot will need to be carefully ground out in the bushing to match the slot in the hub using the blade in an electric chop saw with a metal cut-off wheel. Finally, the face of the pressure plate can be resurfaced and trued-up in the metal lathe. (Remember to wear safety glasses!) (IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable using a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist with a lathe.)

Use distilled white vinegar to remove rust from inside gas tanks, tools, bolts/nuts, clutch pressure plates or virtually any steel or cast iron part: vinegar rust removal - YouTube.

Use ALUMINUM as Clutch Disc Material!

If a single composite clutch disc slips in a stock competition pulling tractor, then what is required to prevent clutch slippage is to install a single piece of machined aluminum to serve as a clutch disc. With resurfaced pressure plates and a high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring, aluminum should grip and hold up well when used in a stock competition pulling tractor. By the way, the OEM sandwiched steel composite clutch disc and an aluminum clutch disc weighs almost the same; about 10.6 ounces each.

The aluminum clutch disc works best for low RPM stock engines. If an aluminum clutch disc is used, there's no need to install three extra studs in the 3-pin drive plate (see below Ê ). But definitely have both pressure plates resurfaced until perfectly flat as described above È. Depending on the size of engine and weight of tractor, the aluminum clutch disc require a tougher driveshaft along with a high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring. And it'll be a good idea to install a center support bearing (center support pillow block bearing and brace) to prevent the driveshaft from wobbling at 4,000 RPM.

IMPORTANT! The biggest mistake a puller can make when launching a tractor is letting the clutch out all of a sudden with the engine revved up. So when using aluminum as a clutch disc (or any metallic clutch material), and when the tractor is hooked to the sled, always remember to "slip" the clutch upon take-off. To do this, first rev up the engine (a lot), then slowly ease out on the clutch pedal. Because an aluminum clutch disc may not "slip" at low RPM, and because aluminum adheres to steel very well when under pressure, if the pedal is let out all of a sudden with the engine revved up, and if the tires don't spin, something could break or get damaged in the drive train or transaxle. The 5/8" zinc-plated steel split lock washer that's placed between the pressure plates will aide greatly in smooth clutch engagement/release and it lessens the possibility of the clutch from "grabbing" upon take-off.

How to Get a composite or the Aluminum Clutch Disc to Engage Smoothly -

The OEM Cub Cadet cushion spring (as it is called in the early/narrow frame Cub Cadets) or teasing spring (as it is called in the later models/wide and spread frame Cub Cadets) goes between the rear pressure plate and clutch release/throw-out bearing. It's purpose is to allow the rear pressure plate to gently press against the clutch disc as the clutch is engaged without having a "jerky" clutch. When using an aluminum clutch disc, the teasing spring can be replaced with a steel spacer or a stack of small outside diameter flat washers (the ones that originally comes on Cub Cadet driveshafts) and an ordinary, zinc-plated steel split lock washer. Install the lock washer between the pressure plates (dead center of the clutch disc) for a smoother clutch engagement. Clutch slippage may result if used with the OEM Cub Cadet clutch pressure spring. Therefore, the aluminum clutch disc should be used with a stiffer-than-stock pressure spring, such as the high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring.

For the narrow-frame Cub Cadets, the steel spacer needs to be 3/8" in length. (The teasing spring is compressed to 3/8" when the clutch is fully engaged.) And for Cub Cadet garden tractor models 86, 108, 128, 800, 1000, 1200 and 1535, the spacer needs to 5/8" length or use the OEM protective cup/spacer (for the teasing) that originally comes on the driveshaft, but leave the teasing spring out. By the way - the small end of the protective cup/spacer goes against the clutch release/throw-out bearing. If a too long of a spacer or the protective spacer/cup is used in a narrow frame model, the clutch release/throw-out bearing would set too far back on the driveshaft and when the clutch/brake pedal is depressed, the release lever will make contact with the steering box and the clutch will not be able to release.

To prevent the teasing spring from possibly breaking and to help the clutch(es) to engage more smoothly, simply don't use the teasing spring. Instead, replace where the teasing spring goes on the driveshaft with a piece of heavy wall round steel tubing that measures 7/8" O.D. x 3/8" (narrow frame) or 5/8" (wide frame) long x 41/64" I.D. Then install an ordinary zinc-plated 5/8" I.D. split lock washer between the pressure plates, dead center of the clutch disc. Lock washers have a spring-like action too, plus they'll last a lot longer than a teasing spring.

The lock washer does two things - it acts like a spring, which forces the pressure plates apart, it provides smooth clutch engagement and it'll help to prevent the possibility of the clutch disc from "grabbing" upon take-off. In addition, the spring-like action of the lock washer will expand the pressure plates when the clutch/brake pedal is fully depressed so they will release from the clutch disc. Doing this will guarantee that the clutch will engage smoothly and release every time. So when reassembling a clutch assembly, don't install the teasing spring. Instead, install the spacer and lock washer as described above È. You'll be glad you did.

Or for a bullet-proof teasing spring setup, and/or if the aluminum clutch disc doesn't engage smoothly, instead of using the 5/8" lock washer between the pressure plates and the teasing spring or a steel spacer, install a flat washer, the 5/8" lock washer, then another flat washer until they all total to about 3/8" or 5/8" in height with the lock washer fully uncompressed.

The correct order of installing Cub Cadet clutch parts on the driveshaft is listed below Ê. NOTE: Before reassembling the clutch assembly, apply a thin coat of automotive grease on the area of the driveshaft where the throw-out bearing and where the rear pressure plate slides back and forth. The grease will assure full clutch disengagement, lessen wear to the driveshaft, and it will prevent the rear pressure plate from sticking to the driveshaft due to rust if the tractor is stored in a damp environment. Also, while the rear pressure plate is off the driveshaft, to prevent it from binding on the 2^nd coiled/spiral pin, which can prevent the clutch from disengaging, widen the slot slightly with a flat file or on the edge of the blade on a chopsaw. (Be sure to wear safety glasses!) And it'll be a good idea to drill a small hole near the center of the rear pressure plate to relieve the air that can get trapped between the pressure plates.

1. Install 3^rd coiled/spiral pin then the main pressure spring.
2. Install clutch release/throw-out bearing (small end facing forward of tractor).
3. Install release lever .
4. Install protective spacer/cup (small end goes against clutch release/throw-out bearing).
5. Install teasing spring (for a fiber clutch disc) or steel spacer (for an aluminum clutch disc). 6. Compress the pressure spring and install the 2^nd coiled/spiral pin.
7. Install pressure plate w/slotted hub.
8. Install zinc-plated steel split lock washer (use only with the aluminum clutch disc and very stiff pressure spring).
9. Install clutch disc.
10. Install pressure plate w/solid hub, then the 1^st coiled/spiral pin.

How to Replace a Broken Teasing Spring on a Cub Cadet Driveshaft (with the driveshaft in the tractor) - (Added 8/28/17)

Lock (depress) the clutch/brake pedal down with the lever against the pedal stop, which is a small angled steel spot-welded to the tractor frame.
Remove the engine from the tractor.
Place a heavy flat bar across the tractor frame to support the very end of the driveshaft. This so the coiled/spiral pins for the pressure plates can be removed.
Use a 1/4" roll pin punch to drive out the coiled/spiral pin from the front pressure plate.
Remove the heavy flat bar and remove both pressure plates along with the clutch disc from the driveshaft
Place the heavy flat bar across the frame (again), and drive out the second coiled/spiral pin from the driveshaft.
Remove the heavy flat bar and the teasing spring can be removed.
Before installing the new teasing spring, apply a thin coat of automotive grease on the driveshaft. The grease will assure full clutch disengagement, lessen wear to the driveshaft, and it will prevent the rear pressure plate from sticking to the driveshaft due to rust if the tractor is stored in a damp environment.
Reinstall the teasing spring and everything else on the driveshaft in reverse order of removal.
When everything is back on the driveshaft, apply a thin coat of automotive grease inside the pilot bushing, and reinstall the engine in the tractor and unlock the clutch/brake pedal from the pedal stop.
The clearance between the clutch release/throw-out bearing and clutch release lever will need to be set by turning the self-locking nut on the lower threaded clutch release rod one way or the other until approximately 9/32" of clearance is obtained between the clutch/brake pedal stop. This allows for about .050" or 1/16" clearance between the clutch release/throw-out bearing and clutch release lever. And to prevent the throw-out bearing from wearing against the release lever, make sure the correct length pedal return spring is installed, too!

The Clutch Pedal Return Spring and Maintaining Proper Clutch Adjustment -

IMPORTANT! Install the clutch pedal return spring to prevent from wearing both the clutch release/throw-out bearing and release lever. Don't just install a cotter pin in place of it. A pedal return spring is a short, very stiff, expansion spring with a hook on each end. The size is approximately 3/4" diameter x 2-1/8" in overall length. And do not "ride the clutch"! Take your foot off the clutch pedal when the tractor is in motion.

The return spring connects from the hole in the end of the clutch adjustment/release rod to a hole in the cross member that's in the tractor's frame. Install one end of the spring in the linkage first, then install the other end in the cross member. NOTE: It may be difficult to get the end of the spring in the hole because of the tension, but it can be done and it MUST be done. (I do it all the time with our muscles, Vise Grips and a little leverage from our trusty small pry bar.)

If a pedal return spring is not installed or if the operator "rides the clutch" when pulling or when the tractor is in operation (keeping one's foot on the clutch pedal at all times), this will cause the clutch release/throw-out bearing to spin the same speed as the engine, wearing it out prematurely. This will also wear the release lever as well. So making the proper adjustment and not "riding the clutch" will help the clutch release/throw-out bearing last a very long time. The return spring connects from the hole in the end of the clutch adjustment/release rod to a hole in the cross member in the tractor's frame. NOTE: It may be somewhat difficult to get the end of the spring in the hole because of the tension, but it can be done, and it must be done. (I do it all the time with our Vise Grips and a little leverage from our trusty small pry bar.)

How to Set the Correct Cub Cadet Drive Clutch Adjustment -

When the clutch/brake pedal is fully disengaged (not depressed), no part of the clutch release/throw-out bearing is supposed to make contact with the clutch release lever. Otherwise, the clutch release/throw-out bearing will turn the same RPM as the engine. If these continually make contact with the engine running and while the tractor is in motion, the driveshaft will continually spin the throw-out bearing, causing it to overheat and eventually burn-out, and the contact area on the release lever will likely to wear excessively. The excessive heat from the overheated throw-out bearing could travel into and weaken (damage) the front end of the main pressure spring too, making it place less pressure against the clutch disc. This will occur with ordinary lawn and garden, and competition pulling tractors alike. Therefore, to set the correct clearance and "safe" operating distance between the throw-out bearing and release lever, with the clutch/brake pedal fully disengaged (not depressed) and the clutch/brake pedal arm/lever against the pedal stop, which is a small angled steel spot-welded to the tractor frame, and with a pedal return spring installed, turn the self-locking nut on the L-shaped clutch adjustment/release rod (that's on the lower part of the release lever) until there's 9/32" - 5/16" of clearance between the pedal arm/lever and pedal stop. This will allow for .050" - .060" (approximately 1/16") of clearance between the throw-out bearing and release lever. The clutch disc should release fully from the pressure plates and the driveshaft should immediately stop rotating with the engine running when the pedal is depressed.

Use a 9/16" size boxed-in ratcheting wrench to make the Cub Cadet clutch adjustment much easier. And an accurate way to check for the correct clearance between the clutch release/throw-out bearing and clutch release lever is to use a 7mm or 5/16" rod or square stock as a thickness gauge. When the self-locking nut on the L-shaped adjustment/release rod is turned clockwise (when facing the front of the tractor), this decreases the clearance, and when the nut is turned counterclockwise, this increases the clearance. Also, if a tractor doesn't already have one, definitely install a pedal return spring (extension spring) of the correct length on the clutch adjustment/release rod to the hole in the cross member that's welded between the frame rails so pressure from the release lever will be taken off the clutch release/throw-out bearing when the clutch/brake pedal is fully disengaged (not depressed) to prevent from premature and excessive wearing of the clutch release/throw-out bearing and/or release lever. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]

To disassemble the clutch components from the driveshaft, this is how I do it:

In a large bench vise, remove the coiled/spiral pin in the front pressure plate.
Remove from vise and slide off both pressure plates and clutch disc.
Firmly clamp the front of the driveshaft in the vise, and with a 3-4 lb. hammer, drive the driveshaft forward from the rear to release pressure off the teasing spring.
Drive out the teasing spring.
Carefully remove the driveshaft from the vise because the pressure spring is under a lot of tension.
Now everything can be removed from the driveshaft.

IMPORTANT! For safety, a hydraulic press should be used to compress the large pressure spring on the driveshaft to reassemble the clutch components!

Apply a light coat of automotive grease where the clutch release/throw-out bearing slides back and forth on the driveshaft. The grease will assure full clutch disengagement, lessen wear to the driveshaft, and it will prevent the rear pressure plate from sticking to the driveshaft due to rust if the tractor is stored in a damp environment.
Install the pressure spring, clutch release/throw-out bearing (the protruding part of the clutch release/throw-out bearing, the part that sticks out, faces forward in the tractor), clutch release lever and teasing spring or steel spacer (optional) on the driveshaft, and place the driveshaft in the hydraulic press with the front facing down.
Apply pressure on the rear of the driveshaft until the second coiled/spiral pin hole clears the teasing spring, then slide a 1/4" bolt in the hole, then release the pressure on the driveshaft.
Remove the driveshaft from the press and firmly clamp the front of the driveshaft in the vise, and with the 3-4 lb. hammer, drive the driveshaft forward from the rear so the 1/4" bolt can be removed.
Install a 1/4" coiled/spiral pin in the second coiled/spiral pin hole.
Remove the driveshaft from the vise.
Install the rear pressure plate, 5/8" zinc-plated steel split lock washer (optional), clutch disc and front pressure plate.
Again, firmly clamp the front of the driveshaft in the vise, and with the 3-4 lb. hammer, drive the driveshaft forward from the rear so the first coiled/spiral pin hole is aligned with the hole in the front pressure plate.
Install the coiled/spiral pin.
The clutch assembly is now completely reassembled.

To test how well the clutch will release out of the tractor, place the clutch assembly in the hydraulic press with each end of the release lever on a couple of blocks, and apply slight downward pressure on the end of the driveshaft. The clutch disc should rotate or "move around" freely without binding. If the disc doesn't rotate or binds, redo your work to find out what went wrong.

How to Fix a "Sticking" Cub Cadet Clutch (when it will not release) -

Before reassembling the clutch assembly, apply a thin coat of automotive grease on the area of the driveshaft where the throw-out bearing and where the rear pressure plate slides back and forth. The grease will assure full clutch disengagement, lessen wear to the driveshaft, and it will prevent the rear pressure plate from sticking to the driveshaft due to rust if the tractor is stored in a damp environment. Also, while the rear pressure plate is off the driveshaft, to prevent it from binding on the 2^nd coiled/spiral pin, which can prevent the clutch from disengaging, widen the slot slightly with a flat file or on the edge of the blade on a chopsaw. (Be sure to wear safety glasses!) And it'll be a good idea to drill a small hole near the center of the rear pressure plate to relieve the air that can get trapped between the pressure plates.

The Much Over-Looked Clutch Release Lever Clevis Pin -

If the straight 3/8" diameter OEM Cub Cadet clevis pivot pin that goes through the clutch hanger bracket and release lever is worn, this part should be replaced with an angled pivot pin. As the engine runs with the clutch fully engaged (foot off the clutch pedal, of course), due to normal engine vibration and slight out-of-balance rotating clutch parts, the OEM round pin continually spins, causing the pin itself and the holes in the hanger bracket to wear. The holes in the release lever rarely wear because the entire lever is made of hardened, heat-treated steel. By replacing the round pin with an angled pin (with the short end long enough to make contact with the tractor frame or hanger bracket), it can't spin. Therefore, there'll be much less wear on the pin and holes, the clutch release/throw-out bearing will last longer, there'll be less noise coming from the clutch parts, clutch operation will be smoother, and clutch adjustment will remain the same for a longer time. (I think the engineers at IH Cub Cadet should have originally installed an angled pin in their tractors. But then again, they probably didn't plan on their tractors being in use 40-50 years later.)

How to Save a Used Clutch Release/Throw-Out Bearing - A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this.

Throw-Out / Clutch Release Bearing If a used clutch release/throw-out bearing is still pretty much "tight," but sounds noisy or "rattles" when you spin it by hand, it could be saved from further wear by pumping it full of automotive grease. The same can be done to a new bearing to ensure that it will last a long time. (I've done this many times when I rebuild clutch assemblies and have never had one complaint!) The fresh grease will help keep the balls within the bearing well-lubricated and cool, preventing them from further wear. But if the bearing is badly worn or if you're in doubt about doing this, then perhaps install a new one. (Cub Cadet part # 741-3056)

IMPORTANT! When assembling the clutch components, never install the clutch release/throw-out bearing on the driveshaft backwards! Install it with the collar (the center part that sticks out) towards the clutch disc.

How to save a used clutch release/throw-out bearing:

Drill a 3/32" hole in the grease/dust seal on the back side of the bearing.
Wash the entire bearing with either electrical contact cleaner, brake parts cleaner, cleaning solvent or paint thinner until the rollers are free of the drill cuttings and debris on the inside. It's clean when the sound changes when it's spun by hand and when it spins more freely.
Use [150± psi] compressed air to blow-dry the entire bearing, including the inside. But don't spin the bearing with the air! Doing this could further damage the bearing!
Using either a needle grease injector (resembles a hypodermic syringe that attaches to an automotive grease gun) or a chainsaw bar tip grease gun, pump the bearing through the drilled hole until it's full of automotive grease. Rotate the bearing 180º by hand and pump it again. It's full when the grease starts to ooze out of the dust seals. By the way - the needle grease injector or chainsaw bar tip grease gun can also be used to relubricate used sealed roller bearings or add additional grease to new sealed roller bearings. And the chainsaw bar tip grease gun comes in handy for lubricating a lot of different small parts.
Thoroughly wipe the grease from around the drilled hole with a clean shop towel/rag and apply a dab of clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant over the hole.
When reinstalling the clutch release/throw-out bearing, remember that the protruding center part faces forward in the tractor (toward the engine).
And do not "ride the clutch"! In other words, try to remember to keep your foot off the clutch pedal when the tractor is in motion! Failure to do this will, without a doubt, eventually burn up the throw-out bearing and possibly wear the release lever. Also, excessive heat from the throw-out bearing could cause the front portion of the main clutch pressure spring to get hot and collapse (shorten/weaken).

And for anyone who's ever wondered about this, when the Cub Cadet clutch/brake pedal is fully depressed, the clutch release lever moves the throw-out bearing exactly 3/8" rearward on the driveshaft.

Information About the Clutch Main Pressure Spring -

If a light-weight tractor with a governed engine (up to 4,000 RPM) is going to be used for general yard work, it's okay to use the stock OEM Cub Cadet pressure spring with the OEM composite clutch disc. A good used stock OEM pressure spring and a new OEM spring should measure no less than 6-1/2" in uncompressed length. The maximum length is 7". But the compressed length (on the driveshaft with the clutch pedal fully depressed) is 5". If a spring has been used on a driveshaft with an overheated or burned-out clutch release/throw-out bearing, it's best to replace both. And if the pressure plates have been resurfaced until perfectly flat, but the clutch still slips in the heavier chores, perhaps a high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring may need to be installed. (See below Ê.)

If the tractor stops pulling about halfway down the track, and if the engine is still running, but the tires aren't spinning, then the clutch is slipping. For the pressure plates to grip the clutch disc(s) firmly, the pressure spring must be a very stout one. The Cub Cadet clutch pressure spring has about 250 psi of pressure and will probably not prevent the clutch from slipping in a competition pulling tractor. Therefore, a high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring works excellent with the OEM clutch disc or aluminum disc. The OEM clutch release lever may need to be extended 3" with either of these springs for easier clutch pedal depression.

How to Reinforce the Clutch Release Lever Brace on a Wide and Spread Frame Cub Cadet When Using the Yellow Spring -

Install a piece of 1/8" x 1" x (you'll need to measure the length if the transaxle have been moved rearward) flat steel from the center of the clutch release lever brace back to one of the upper bolts on the front of the transaxle. Use grade 8 bolts so it can be removed later in case of repairs. This is much easier to do on a platform work table than on the floor or ground. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]

Improving International Harvester's IH Cub Cadet "Original" Garden Tractor Clutch Assembly - [Top of Page]

The first Cub Cadet garden tractor manufactured is the International Cub Cadet, better known as the Cub Cadet "Original". The reason this particular tractor is called the "Original" because they're the very first Cub Cadet garden tractor that International Harvester produced. That's why most folks nowadays call them the Cub Cadet "Original". IH didn't have a model number because they were all built basically the same, and they all share the same parts.

On these tractors, the power is transferred from a small pulley, that is on the engine, onto a larger pulley that's on the driveshaft by use of a V-belt, which act like a gear reduction. It's approximately a 1.6:1 reduction in driveshaft rotation. This means engine torque is increased approximately 1.6 times the driveshaft because the clutch/driveshaft. This increases the power and torque of the original 6¼hp engine into a 10hp engine (6¼ x 1.6 = 10).

Replacing the Drive Belt in a Cub Cadet "Original" Garden Tractor -

To remove and install the drive belt on an IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor, the entire clutch assembly needs to be removed. After installing the belt and reinstalling the clutch assembly, the belt needs to be tightened by pulling down on the front brace of the clutch assembly (use a pry bar), and tighten the bolts on each side of the frame. This is much easier to do on a platform work table than on the floor or ground.

Convert the V-Belt Drive System to a Chain/Sprocket Drive -

The V-belt on the Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor can be converted for use with a chain and sprocket drive. This system works great because there'll no belt to slip or rob the engine of horsepower. To make this possible:

The aluminum hub/pulley (next to the flywheel) will need to replaced with a precision machined hub/sprocket. NOTE: The sprocket diameter can vary to decrease or increase the ground speed of the tractor.
The V-groove as part of the clutch/pulley (on the driveshaft) will need to be machined down to accept a sprocket.
The chain tension can be adjusted the same way the belt is tightened.

Repairing the Drive Clutch -

If the drive clutch holds well, but will not release at times, this means the sliding parts on the driveshaft are dry or the old grease has accumulated dirt and/or has "dried up," causing the parts to bind on the driveshaft.

How to Disassemble and Reassemble the IH Cub Cadet "Original" Garden Tractor Clutch Assembly -

Use a big bench vise to disassemble and reassemble the clutch assembly.
Place the front of the driveshaft in the jaws of the vise (with a couple of soft aluminum angled pieces placed in the vice jaws, of course), and tighten down the jaws
Use a 3-4 lb. hammer to drive the driveshaft forward until the first coiled/spiral pin can be removed.
Remove the driveshaft from the vise, and slide off the pressure plates and clutch/pulley.
Place the driveshaft in the vise again, and butt the splined piece against the jaws of the vise and remove the pin from the splined piece.
Place a small screwdriver in the front coiled/spiral pin hole (so the driveshaft so it will not shoot out of the vise), and carefully loosen the vise to remove it.
Reassembly is the opposite of disassembly.

But if the clutch slips, performing the following should cure the problem:

First, resurface the cast iron pressure plates on a large, flat disc or belt sander until they're perfectly flat. (Sanders are not just for woodworking.) If the clutch discs (which is part of the pulley) aren't worn excessively, they can be sanded flat as well to match the flatness of the pressure plates. Just remove the raised places, no more. But if the composite material is worn thin or if you have doubts that it will not grip well, then install new clutch facings on the pulley.

If the clutch composite material "peels off" or comes loose from the pulley, it can be reattached with a high strength adhesive, such as Krazy Glue, Super Glue, Gorilla Glue, etc. FYI - When storing an opened container of Super Glue or liquid threadlock material, store it upright and not laying flat. The [capped] tip will not dry out and clog when stored upright. As soon as the composite material is adhered on the pulley, place the clutch/pulley assembly between two thick flat steel plates to cover the entire composite material, then place them in a hydraulic press and apply light pressure to squeeze out any air bubbles that may get trapped so the composite material will have a stronger bond and lay flat. If a hydraulic press isn't available, then using one of the tires that's on a car or truck will place enough pressure, too. After the glue has dried, lightly sand the composite material on a large, flat disc or belt sander to ensure true flatness.

For even better clutch adhesion or "holding power," the OEM pressure spring can be replaced with a high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring. Be sure to drill the 3rd hole to 1/4" and install a heavy coiled/spiral pin, too! Install a new bronze bushing in the clutch release/throw-out bearing if it's worn. Then lubricate the clutch release/throw-out bearing through the factory-installed Zerk grease fitting. Under normal use, the clutch release/throw-out bearing needs to be lubricated once a year for preventive maintenance. Because grease cost a lot less than any mechanical part(s)!

And as far as I'm aware, new composite facings for the IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor clutch is not available from any source. But 6061 aluminum can be used as clutch facings on the IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor clutch pulley. The dimensions of the fabricated aluminum clutch facings are as follows: 4-1/2" O.D. x 3" I.D. x 1/8" thick. Fasten the aluminum to the pulley with six (for strength) 10-32 UNF x 1/2" length flat head brass screws equally spaced apart on each side. Offset the threaded holes in the pulley so the threads of the screws on one side will not interfere with the screws on the other side. Countersink the heads of the screws into the aluminum with the heads slightly below the surface of the aluminum. Make sure the aluminum is perfectly flat before installing it on the pulley, too. And of course, when using aluminum as clutch material, a stiffer-than-stock pressure spring, such as the high pressure red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) spring, will be required to prevent clutch slippage.

Click Here for Detailed Illustrated Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back and Self-Propelled Garden Tractor Pulling Sled (Available Soon)

To place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for customer service assistance, and FREE honest and accurate technical support, please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak slowly and clearly). Call in your order or email us a list parts you need. Payment Options. Please call Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone, except holidays. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian on the phone, please be patient and understanding because I stutter.) E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.

A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone, with an appointment on weekends, except holidays. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally purchase parts, or drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine parts, entire engine, transmission, transaxle, entire garden tractor, etc. for repairing and/or rebuilding. Please call, text or email me before coming so I'll be at my shop waiting for your arrival. When you visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with the owner for the best customer service. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. "The road to a [trusted] friend's house (or shop) is never long." Don't sacrifice quality workmanship for distance. [Return To Previous Paragraph, Section or Website]

By the way - As business is booming, we're going to relocate our business later this year at 12091 N. Rt. B, Hallsville, MO 65255 with a bigger, better, fully insulated, heated and air-conditioned building/shop (shouse) so we can provide many more high quality parts and professional services, and hire more help to have our customer's parts orders fulfilled sooner, parts repairs and engine rebuilds performed promptly without delay. We will also provide pick up and delivery service and perform professional repairs for various small engines and lawn & garden equipment! Photos during construction of our new building/shop are posted here!

To place an order, please call the number listed below Ê or send an email with your name, complete and correct postal address and phone number and so I can figure the total with shipping cost and USPS Tracking. For payment options for parts ordered or services performed, or to make a donation to my websites, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge), Western Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram Money Transfers. (If a part for a specific purpose is special ordered, your debit/credit card may be charged for the full amount or as a deposit right after your order is placed; please do not send your debit/credit card information in email!) Or you can pay A-1 Miller's through PayPal. (My PayPal account name is my email address. And be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment is for.) If sending a money order, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone number and a description of what the payment is for. My mailing address and phone number are below Ê . I'll make a note of your order, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send the parts to you as soon as I have everything in stock after I receive your payment.

IMPORTANT - When sending your part(s) to A-1 Miller's for rebuilding or repair, package everything securely so the item(s) won't get damaged in shipping and please include a note in the box with your name, mailing address, phone number (in case I have any questions) and a description of what you want done. When shipping heavy parts, it's best to put a slightly smaller box inside a larger box, to double the strength and integrity of the package. Because the clumsy "gorillas" or incompetent and uncaring workers that work for certain delivery services mishandle the heavy packages and don't care. And when the work is completed, I'll either call or email you an invoice with the total including shipping & handling.

Payment Options and We Ship to Canada and Worldwide
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S. territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground or equivalent services. We try to keep our shipping cost to customers within reason. Therefore, we don't ship our products in a fancy-looking package with our company name and/or logo on it because most customers will just toss it in the trash after they remove the contents. And being there is no USPS tracking number outside the US, all I can do is make sure I write your address correctly on the customs form and on your package.

My websites are not set up to process orders and accept payments. Therefore, for payment options, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total amount for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge), Western Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram Money Transfers. If paying with a credit/debit card, please call me at either number above. To make a payment to me through PayPal, please click this link: https://www.paypal.me/PullingTractor. Please use the "Friends and Family" option, or add 3% to the total amount to cover PayPal's processing surcharge. Or to make a payment to me (pullingtractor@aol.com) in the US through the Venmo app, please click this link: venmo.com. Or use Cash App to make a payment to me (pullingtractor@aol.com). And be sure to mention in PayPal, Venmo or Cash App a description of what the payment is for with your full name, postal address, phone number and email address. If sending a money order or cashier's check, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete mailing address, phone number, email address and a description of what the payment is for. I'll make a note of your order when I have all your information, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send everything on your list to you as soon as I have the parts in stock after I receive your payment.

Ã Return to Main Pulling Tips Page | Return To Previous Page | Various Vendors Related to Tractor Pulling | Top of Page

Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website.
Solid Motor Mount Kit for Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" Garden Tractors. Replace OEM Rubber ISO-Mounts with a Set of Solid Motor Mounts to Prevent Repeated and Costly Damage to the Clutch Components! An original, ingenious, innovative concept invention by Brian Miller, because I was the one who originally thought of, promoted and advertised the use of this product. Please accept no copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.) [Top of Page] Details include: These custom-made solid motor mounts replaces deteriorated OEM "ISO" rubber engine mounts, which is usually associated with a damaged "flexible" 3-pin clutch drive plate and damaged clutch components. They are also a must for competition pulling! Fits IH Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" garden tractor models 482, 800, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1340, 1450 and 1650. If the engine in your tractor is mounted on angled cradles with rubber mounts between the cradles and tractor frame, then these are what your tractor need. Direct replacement for OEM ISO-rubber mounts with no modifications to the tractor whatsoever. A thick flat washer fastens on top of the cradles with the solid mounts sandwiched between the cradles and tractor frame. Torque the bolts at 35 ft. lb. Can be easily removed if rubber mounts are desired instead. For general lawn and garden use, heavy towing, pushing snow or competition pulling. A MUST for competition pulling (or even everyday use) because these stabilize the engine and entire clutch assembly to prevent severe engine vibration at high RPM or at wide open throttle, which can destroy the flexible 3-pin clutch drive plate, clutch disc and driveshaft components. These solid motor mounts weigh about 1 lb. Precision machined by A-1 Miller's so they set the engine crankshaft height at the correct alignment with the driveshaft. FYI - Rubber motor mounts are intended for operator comfort due to engine vibration only. The rubber ISO-mounted engine tractors with solid motor mounts installed would feel and operate just like the tractors with a solid-mounted engine. Some people who installed these solid mounts use their tractor just to mow grass tell A-1 Miller's that the solid mounts don't cause their tractor to vibrate much at all, while others who have installed them said the vibration is unbearable. If the entire tractor vibrates severely after these solid mounts are installed, then the rotating assembly in the engine (crankshaft/connecting rod/piston assembly) and/or flywheel is obviously severely out of balance and needs to be precision spin-balanced by an automotive/race engine machine shop. Because the old Kohlers was balanced during the 1960's-70's with old fashioned and out-dated technology, which is not as precision with today's computerized balancing technology. (The IH Cub Cadet engineers obviously knew the older Kohler engines were out of balance and would vibrate, this is the only reason they installed rubber motor mounts in their "Quiet Line" tractors.) So if you want, to minimize the vibration, either install a set of new OEM Cub Cadet ISO rubber mounts or have the rotating engine parts (crankshaft/piston/connecting rod and flywheel) dynamically and precision spin-balanced with up-to-date technology for a smoother running engine. Or you can return these solid mounts for a full refund, less shipping & handling. And by the way - the two factory-welded reinforcement bars between the cradles is used only on Cub Cadet garden tractor models 1204, 1210, 1211, 1282 and 1340 to prevent the mounting bolt holes in the aluminum oil pan from being stripped out. They are not required with a cast iron oil pan or with solid motor mounts. When in doubt, Heli-Coil stainless steel thread inserts can be installed in an aluminum oil pan to prevent the threads from being stripped out. *Solid Motor Mount Kit. Includes four solid mounts, four thick flat washers and four grade 8 bolts/nuts/lock washers.* $40.00 per set, plus shipping & handling.** Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website. \| [Top of Page] [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]
Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" Engine Mounting Rubber Snubbers/Bumpers and Rubber ISO-Mounts. Fits Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" garden tractor models 482, 800, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1340, 1450 and 1650. All these models have a rubber ISO-mounted engine to reduce overall tractor vibration for operator comfort. The rubber ISO-mounts can be adapted for use on various other makes and models of small engine equipment to reduce engine vibration throughout the frame. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website] Rubber Snubber/Bumper with Threaded Stud. Provides stabilization of the engine and proper alignment of the driveshaft from tension of the drive belt to the mower deck. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-61510-C1. $21.75 each, plus shipping & handling. Rubber ISO-mount kit. This kit replaces the mount only on one corner. Order four kits for a complete set. OEM Cub Cadet part # 759-3952. $33.60 per kit, plus shipping & handling. Complete Rubber ISO-mount set. This kit replaces the mount only on one corner. Order four kits for a complete set. OEM Cub Cadet part # 759-3952 (x4). $134.40 per set of 4 kits, plus shipping & handling.
OEM-Thickness Bronze Pilot Bushing. Fits all pre-1981 gear drive IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 106, 108, 122, 124, 126 and 128, except "Quiet Line" models. This is also the replacement bushing for the IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor pulley/clutch disc. Dimensions: 5/8" I.D. x 7/8" O.D. x 3/4" length. IMPORTANT: To prevent the replacement pilot bushing from wearing, both pressure plates should be resurfaced and trued-up in a metal lathe, and before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply automotive grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if the bushing is dry, chances are, the driveshaft can bind up in the bushing, the clutch may not release, and cause wear to both the bushing and driveshaft. High quality aftermarket. $4.00 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-376265-R2. $6.80 each, plus shipping & handling.
Thin-Wall Bronze Pilot Bushing Insert for installing inside a worn OEM bronze pilot bushing in all pre-1981 gear drive IH Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 106, 108, 122, 124, 126 and 128, except "Quiet Line" models. Can also be used inside the OEM bushing in the IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor pulley/clutch disc. Dimensions: 5/8" I.D. x 3/4" O.D. x 3/4" length. NOTE: Worn OEM bushing must be precision center-bored to .750" in a metal lathe so this bushing will have a press fit. IMPORTANT: To prevent the replacement pilot bushing from wearing, both pressure plates should be resurfaced and trued-up in a metal lathe, and before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply automotive grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if the bushing is dry, chances are, the driveshaft can bind up in the bushing, the clutch may not release, and cause wear to both the bushing and driveshaft. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Tubular Driveshaft Couplers. Available in OEM stock length, 1" longer than stock length (to lessen driveshaft wobble) or 3" rigid tubular carbon steel driveshaft one-piece rigid tubular coupler. For a custom-length coupler, exact locations where the coiled/spiral pin holes need to be drilled are required. Custom-length rigid tubular driveshaft couplers, up to 6" length are available. To find the location of the coiled/spiral pin holes, install the driveshaft in the tractor with the engine fastened to the frame with a couple of bolts, make sure the clutch disc is midway on the drive pins, then measure precisely from the rear coiled/spiral pin hole on the driveshaft to the coiled/spiral pin hole in the input shaft in the transaxle, then add 3/4" for the overall length of the coupler. And one-piece couplers to replace rubber flex coupler disc and coupler arms on AQS (Quiet Line) Cub Cadet garden tractor models 800, 1000, 1050 and 1200 when using solid motor mounts. The 800, 1000 and 1200 coupler will come with two roll pin holes for single or double rubber flex coupler(s). NOTE: The 3" aftermarket coupler is used only for competition pulling tractors with a shortened driveshaft so the input shaft/pinion drive gear can be changed to vary the ground speed of the tractor. And when ordering, please specify model of Cub Cadet, overall length and coiled/spiral pin hole locations. Coupler with no holes drilled for coiled/spiral pins. (Customer drills own holes.) Any length up to 6". $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Aftermarket Stock Length Coupler with holes drilled for coiled/spiral pins. Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 106, 108, 122, 124, 126 and 128. Fabricated A-1 Miller's part. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-394036-R1. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Universal 3" Coupler. This particular coupler have three coiled/spiral pin holes to replace coupler arms and flex disc(s) on Cub Cadet models 580, 582, 682, 782, 782D, 800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1541, 1604, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812 and 1860. To set driveshaft in the correct position, referring to the drawing on the right ->, if tractor originally came with one flex disc, use the #1 hole, but if tractor originally came with two flex discs, use the #2 hole. This coupler must be used with solid motor mounts. Fabricated A-1 Miller's part. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Cub Cadet Coupler. Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 106, 108, 122, 124, 126 and 128. Cub Cadet part # IH-394036-R1. $70.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Replacement Self-Aligning Spherical Bronze Bushing w/Outer Steel Race/Retainer. Fits pilot bushing retainers listed below and input shaft coupler arm further listed below in Cub Cadet ISO-mount garden models 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 882, 982, 984, 1000, 1050, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1541, 1572, 1604, 1606, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1772, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1860, 1872, 1912, 1914 and 2072. Install with hammer and socket. IMPORTANT: To prevent the replacement pilot bushing from wearing, both pressure plates should be resurfaced and trued-up in a metal lathe, and before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply automotive grease inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if the bushing is dry, chances are, the driveshaft can bind up in the bushing, the clutch may not release, and cause wear to both the bushing and driveshaft. OEM Cub Cadet part # 941-3004. $39.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Round Retainer with Pressed-In Self-Aligning Spherical Pilot Bushing. Fits Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" rubber ISO-mounted engine garden tractor models 800, 1000, 1200, 1250, 1450 and 1650. OEM Cub Cadet IH-126205-C2. $114.00 each, plus shipping & handling. IMPORTANT: Before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply automotive grease to inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if either is dry, chances are, the driveshaft can bind up in the bushing, the clutch may not release, and cause wear to both the bushing and driveshaft.
Rectangular Flange with Pressed-In Self-Aligning Spherical Bronze Pilot Bushing. Fits Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" rubber ISO-mounted engine garden tractor models 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1541, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1860, 1872 and 2072. OEM Cub Cadet part # 903-0204. $33.65 each, plus shipping & handling. IMPORTANT: Before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply automotive grease to inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if either is dry, chances are, the driveshaft can bind up in the bushing, the clutch may not release, and cause wear to both the bushing and driveshaft.
Rectangular Flange with Pressed-In Self-Aligning Spherical Bronze Pilot Bushing. Fits Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" rubber ISO-mounted engine garden tractor models 782D, 882, 1512, 1572 and 1772. Discontinued Cub Cadet part # 703-0231. $45.00 each with new bushing, plus shipping & handling. (When available.) IMPORTANT: Before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply automotive grease to inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if either is dry, chances are, the driveshaft can bind up in the bushing, the clutch may not release, and cause wear to both the bushing and driveshaft.
Rectangular Flange with Pressed-In Self-Aligning Spherical Bronze Pilot Bushing. Fits Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" rubber ISO-mounted engine garden tractor models Fits models 982, 984, 986, 1912 and 1914. OEM Cub Cadet part # 903-1492. $45.50 each, plus shipping & handling.00 IMPORTANT: Before reinstalling the driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor, apply automotive grease to inside the pilot bushing and/or on the front of the driveshaft. Because if either is dry, chances are, the driveshaft can bind up in the bushing, the clutch may not release, and cause wear to both the bushing and driveshaft.
Transaxle Input Shaft Coupler Arm. Fits IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor and models 105, 107, 109, 123, 125, 127, 129, 147, 149 and 169. NOTE: This particular part goes on the input shaft of the transaxle and not on the driveshaft. Can also be used in a steering shaft setup of a custom-built mini-rod pulling tractor as a type of U-joint with a maximum 35º rotational angle with either flex coupler disc listed below. Dimensions: 25/64" bolt holes spaced 3" apart x 25/64" center pilot hole (for support end of driveshaft) x 5/8" center hole. [Return To Previous Section, Paragraph or Website] A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Weld up worn center hole in YOUR coupler arm and precision redrill hole to original size. $25.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling. Used and in excellent condition. OEM Cub Cadet part # 759-3009. $50.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.) New. OEM Cub Cadet part # 759-3009. $89.75 each, plus shipping & handling.
Driveshaft (or Input Shaft) Coupler Arm. Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 482, 580, 582, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 782D, 800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1541, 1604, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812 and 1860. NOTE: This particular part goes on the driveshaft and not on the input shaft of the transaxle. Additional Note: This part can be substituted for the coupler arm listed above when used on the transaxle input shaft with end of driveshaft at 5/8". Due to the increase in material, less wear will occur to the end of the driveshaft and hole in the coupler arm. (A-1 Miller's improved design.) Can also be used in a steering shaft setup of a custom-built mini-rod pulling tractor as a type of U-joint with a maximum 35º rotational angle with either rubber flex coupler disc listed below. Dimensions: 25/64" bolt holes spaced 3" apart x 5/8" center through-hole. [Return To Previous Section, Paragraph or Website] Used and in excellent condition. OEM Cub Cadet part # 748-3001. $50.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.) New. (Cub Cadet part # 759-3009 bored to 5/8".) Replaces Cub Cadet part # 748-3001. $90.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Transaxle Input Shaft Coupler Arm with Self-Aligning Spherical Bronze Bushing and Outer Steel Race/Retainer. Each fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 482, 580, 582, 682, 782, 782D, 800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1541, 1604, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812 and 1860. Dimensions: bolt holes spaced 3" apart x 5/8" center through-hole. NOTE: This particular part goes on the input shaft of the transaxle and not on the driveshaft. Used and in excellent condition coupler arm with new bushing. OEM Cub Cadet part #'s 703-1035 and 903-0794. $75.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.) New coupler arm w/bushing. OEM Cub Cadet part #'s 703-1035 (same part as listed below). $117.50 each, plus shipping & handling. New coupler arm w/bushing. OEM Cub Cadet part #'s 903-0794 (same part as listed above). $185.90 each, plus shipping & handling.
Reinforced Rubber Driveshaft Flex Coupler Disc. Designed specifically for IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor, and Cub Cadet hydrostatic drive models 105, 107, 109, 123, 125, 127, 129, 147, 149 and 169. Cannot be used on the Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" models due to the small center hole. Very tough, reinforced rubber/weaved fiber material. Allows for out-of-alignment rotation of driveshaft to prevent damage to hydrostatic pump. Can also be used in a steering shaft setup of a custom-built mini-rod pulling tractor as a type of U-joint with a maximum 35º rotational angle with coupler arm(s) listed above. 13/32" bolt holes spaced 3" apart. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-376257-R3. $35.85 each, plus shipping & handling. Reinforced Rubber Driveshaft Flex Coupler Disc. Designed specifically for Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" garden tractor models 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 682, 782, 782D, 800, 882, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1050, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1541, 1604, 1606, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1860, 1872, 1912, 1914 and 2072. Can also be used on the IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor. Very tough, reinforced rubber/weaved fiber material. Allows for out-of-alignment rotation of driveshaft in rubber ISO-mounted engine tractors to prevent damage to the clutch parts or hydrostatic pump. Has larger center hole than coupler listed above to clear housing in coupler arm with self-aligning spherical bushing. Can be substituted for flex coupler listed above. Can also be used in a steering shaft setup of a custom-built mini-rod pulling tractor as a type of U-joint with a maximum 35º rotational angle with coupler arm(s) listed above. 13/32" bolt holes spaced 3" apart. OEM Cub Cadet part # 722-3000. $23.45 each, plus shipping & handling.
The OEM Cub Cadet Hydrostatic Drive Hub (shown to the left in the photo below; Cub Cadet part # IH-394034-R32) in IH Cub Cadet garden tractor models 105, 107, 109, 123, 125, 127, 129, 147, 149 and 169 is notorious for the slots becoming severely worn due to a slight misalignment of the engine with the driveshaft. To fix this, replace this hub with the parts shown to the right -> in the photo below. Because these parts will last a lot longer, and they'll produce no noise. Modification to the front of the driveshaft will need to be made. Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price.

Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website.
Drive Belt. Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 482, 580, 582 Special, 1100, 1204 and 1604. This V-belt goes from the Peerless right-angle gearbox to the Peerless transaxle. High quality aftermarket. Long lasting premium belt. 1/2" wide x 33" length. Replaces Cub Cadet part # 954-3000. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Cub Cadet part # 954-3000. 1/2" wide x 32.87" length. $31.75 each, plus shipping & handling.
Composite Clutch Discs - High quality aftermarket composite material 6" O.D. clutch disc for all models of Cub Cadet clutch drive garden tractors. Made of very tough and long-lasting material suitable for heavy duty yard and garden use or competition pulling tractors. Comes with 6 drive holes; can be used with an OEM or aftermarket 3- or 6-pin/stud drive plate. Replaces Cub Cadet part # 961-3002. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Cub Cadet 6" O.D. clutch disc with 3 drive holes. Must be used with a 3-pin/stud drive plate. Reinforced composite material with sandwiched steel. Listed for use in Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 106, 108, 122, 124, 126, 128, 580, 582, 800, 1000, 1200, 1604 and 1606. OEM Cub Cadet part # 961-3002. $74.00 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Cub Cadet 6-1/2" O.D. clutch disc with 3 drive holes. Must be used with a 3-pin/stud drive plate. Reinforced composite material with sandwiched steel. Listed for use in Cub cadet models 1050, 1535 and 1806. OEM Cub Cadet part # 961-3011. $72.25 each, plus shipping & handling. [Return To Previous Section, Paragraph or Website] IMPORTANT - It is highly recommended that both pressure plates be trued-up (outer edge made perfectly round to reduce vibration and pilot bushing wear) and resurfaced (clutch contact area made perfectly flat) in a metal lathe or severe clutch slippage will likely result! Because new OEM Cub Cadet pressure plates are made of stamped steel and are not machined in a lathe whatsoever. If used pressure plates have not been resurfaced before, then chances are, they'll still be thick enough after being resurfaced. Always remove the minimal amount of metal to retain maximum thickness so they will not warp when hot. FYI - About 90% of the composite material in clutch discs will chip off were the holes are due to the following reasons: The composite material is so hard (for long wear), it's actually brittle and will easily chip off or break when mishandled. Sometimes when installing the engine in the tractor, the composite material will chip off when sliding the drive pins or studs into the clutch disc. The holes in the composite material will sometimes chip off and/or wear larger under normal use because the three OEM drive pins or studs place pressure against the holes. When the original three holes wear extremely large, a new hole can be precision-drilled between the original holes and the clutch disc can be reused. Using the OEM Cub Cadet clutch drive plate with three additional drive studs precision-drilled and installed or an aftermarket 6-pin drive plate with a 6-hole clutch disc (three additional holes drilled) will place 50% less pressure and reduce the amount of wear against each hole. The more drive pins or studs the drive plate has, less wear to the holes will result in the clutch disc. The drive plate and clutch disc can have as many as 9 or 12 drive pins and holes.
Teasing [Compression] Spring and Protective Thrust Washer. Spring allows for smooth engagement of the fiber clutch disc, and the washer prevents the spring from breaking. Fits all models of Cub Cadet clutch drive garden tractors, including Cub Cadet garden tractor models 1250, 1450 and 1650 equipped with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment, and Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor (thrust washer not required). The thrust washer goes between the rear slotted pressure plate and teasing spring. Purpose of thrust washer is for each time the clutch is engaged, the rotating motion of the throw-out bearing will sometimes cause the blunt end of the spring to "catch" in the slot of the rear pressure plate, which twists the spring a few thousandths of an inch. Overtime, the twisting creates metal fatigue in the spring and could cause it to eventually break, even when used with the cup/spacer listed below. The thrust washer prevents this from happening. A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.) FYI: There is a custom-made sleeve available from an aftermarket vendor that goes over the teasing spring (much like the cup/spacer listed below). But being the coils of the teasing spring does not expand outward when the clutch is engaged, this sleeve will not prevent the spring from possibly twisting and breaking. Therefore, it's been proven to use the protective thrust washer instead. Teasing Spring Only. OEM Cub Cadet part # 732-3017. $7.50 each, plus shipping & handling. Protective Thrust Washer Only. Not needed for Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor. .050"± thickness. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Teasing Spring and Protective Thrust Washer Kit. $8.50 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
Cup/Spacer for Teasing Spring listed above. Specifically used in Cub Cadet clutch drive garden tractor models 580, 582, 800, 1000, 1200, 1535, 1604, 1606 and 1806, including Cub Cadet garden tractor models 1250, 1450 and 1650 equipped with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment. IMPORTANT: When installing this part on the driveshaft, the wide/flared-end faces forward and the narrow end goes against the throw-out bearing. And do not install this part in any other model of Cub Cadet garden tractor then listed above in an attempt to prevent the teasing spring from possibly breaking over time. (Use the protective thrust washer listed above instead.) Doing so will position the throw-out bearing further back on the driveshaft than in the original position and not allow the clutch disc to either fully disengage or disengage at all. OEM Cub Cadet part # 911-3040. $19.55 each, plus shipping & handling.
Cup/Spacer for Teasing Spring listed further above. Specifically used in Cub Cadet garden tractor model 1050; 2" overall length. Comes with installed grease fitting. IMPORTANT: When installing this part on driveshaft, the wide/flared end faces forward and the narrow end goes against the clutch release/throw-out bearing. And lubricate this part through the Zerk grease fitting with an automotive grease gun once a year for preventive maintenance. Because grease cost a lot less than any mechanical part(s)! Fabricated by A-1 Miller's. No longer available from Cub Cadet. Replaces Cub Cadet part # 711-3282. $42.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
A-1 Miller's Original Machined Aluminum Clutch Disc Kit. This is an alternate and direct replacement for the OEM-type composite material clutch disc. Kit includes 6-hole aluminum clutch disc, 5/8" I.D. split lock washer (goes in center of aluminum disc and between pressure plates (provides smooth clutch engagement and guaranteed release) and steel spacer (replaces OEM teasing spring). Precision machined of high quality 6061 alloy medium-grade hardness aluminum in my metal lathe and milling machine with an 8" super spacer. Drive holes are drilled 13/32" for minimum clutch disc noise/rattle and less chance of breakage to the drive pins/studs. IMPORTANT: Use only with the red (800± lb.) or yellow (1,150± lb.) pressure spring and not the OEM spring to prevent clutch slippage. A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.) IMPORTANT! It is highly recommended that both pressure plates be resurfaced (clutch contact area made perfectly flat) and trued-up (outer edge made perfectly round to reduce vibration and lessen pilot bushing wear) in a metal lathe, or severe clutch slippage will likely result! Because new OEM Cub Cadet pressure plates are made of stamped steel and are not machined in a lathe whatsoever. If used pressure plates have not been resurfaced before, then chances are, they'll still be thick enough after being resurfaced. Always remove the minimal amount of metal to retain maximum thickness so they will not warp and become convexed when hot. CUB CADET 124 WORK PART 2 - YouTube Aluminum Clutch Disc Kit. Includes 5/8" I.D. Zinc-Plated Steel Split Lock Washer and Steel Spacer. $30.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling. Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. \| [Top of Page]
Cub Cadet Clutch Disc Anti-Rattle Spring. Reduces annoying clutch disc rattle on drive pins/studs and reduces wear to drive holes in clutch disc. Although one spring may be sufficient to reduce clutch noise, it may be necessary to install three springs (one for each pin/stud) for 100% reduced clutch noise. Can be used on composite or aluminum clutch discs. NOTE: Recommended for up to 4,000 RPM engines. Not for use on high RPM or wide open throttle competition pulling tractors due to normal engine harmonic vibrations that travels out into the clutch assembly, this can create the possibility of the spring(s) becoming dislodged, which could become a hazardous airborne projectile if clutch is not properly shielded 360º. So if possible, install these springs with the coil between the clutch disc and drive plate, opposite that is shown in the photo to the right, to prevent them from coming off. CUB CADET 124 WORK PART 2 - YouTube OEM Cub Cadet part # 932-3018. $4.25 each, plus shipping & handling. Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price.

Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website.
Clevis/Pivot Pins for Cub Cadet clutch release lever bracket. The 90º/angled/L-shaped clevis/pivot pin is an alternative to using the OEM straight clevis/pivot pin or a grade 8 bolt and lock nut. The short part of the L-shaped pin makes contact with the pedestal assembly (narrow frame tractors) or hanger bracket (wide/spread frame tractors) to prevent the holes in the hanger bracket and release lever from wearing oblong due to constant spinning of the OEM straight pin from normal engine vibration. The L-shaped pin lessens clutch noise/rattle, reduces wasted free-play in clutch pedal travel, maintains proper release lever to throw-out bearing adjustment, and allows for smoother and less "sloppy" clutch operation. The 90º/angled/L-shaped clevis/pivot pin is A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.) 90º/Angled/L-Shaped Clevis/Pivot Pin w/cotter pin. Fits Cub Cadet narrow frame clutch drive garden tractor models: 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124 and 126. NOTE: Please specify model of tractor when ordering. Fabricated A-1 Miller's part. Replaces Cub Cadet straight pin part # 911-3044. $20.00 each, plus shipping & handling. 90º/Angled/L-Shaped Clevis/Pivot Pin w/cotter pin. Fits Cub Cadet wide and spread frame clutch drive garden tractor models: 86, 128, 580, 582, 800, 1000, 1050, 1200, 1604, 1606 and 1806. NOTE: Please specify model of tractor when ordering. Fabricated A-1 Miller's part. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet straight pin part # 911-0755. $20.00 each, plus shipping & handling. High quality aftermarket straight clevis/pivot pin. Fits Cub Cadet narrow frame clutch drive garden tractor models: 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124 and 126. NOTE: Please specify model of tractor when ordering. Fabricated A-1 Miller's part. Replaces Cub Cadet part # 911-3044. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling. High quality aftermarket straight clevis/pivot pin. Fits Cub Cadet wide and spread frame clutch drive garden tractor models: 86, 108, 128, 580, 582, 800, 1000, 1050, 1200, 1604, 1606 and 1806. NOTE: Please specify model of tractor when ordering. Fabricated A-1 Miller's part. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part # part # 911-0755. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Straight clevis pin. Fits Cub Cadet narrow frame clutch drive garden tractor models: 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124 and 126. OEM Cub Cadet part # 911-3044. $9.90 each, plus shipping & handling.
New clutch hanger bracket for narrow frame clutch drive IH Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124 and 126. Heavy duty aftermarket. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-384656-R2. $30.00 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-384656-R2. $38.70 each, plus shipping & handling. A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Weld up worn/oblong clutch release lever pivot pin holes in YOUR clutch hanger bracket, redrill holes and grind smooth. $20.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling.
New clutch hanger bracket for wide frame clutch drive IH Cub Cadet garden tractor models 86, 108, 128, 800, 1000 and 1200. Also for models 1250, 1450 and 1650 with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment. Used and in excellent condition. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.) New. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-547629-R1. $88.80 each, plus shipping & handling. A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Weld up worn/oblong clutch release lever pivot pin holes in YOUR clutch hanger bracket, redrill holes and grind smooth. $20.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling.
New clutch hanger bracket for spread frame clutch drive, IH- or MTD-built Cub Cadet garden tractor models 580, 582, 1050, 1604, 1606 and 1806. May also fit model 1535. Requires clevis pin w/cotter pin. Used and in excellent condition. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.) New. OEM Cub Cadet part # 759-3548. $79.10 each, plus shipping & handling. A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Weld up worn/oblong clutch release lever pivot pin holes in YOUR clutch hanger bracket, redrill holes and grind smooth. $20.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling.
Clutch hanger bracket for spread frame clutch drive MTD-built Cub Cadet garden tractor model 1535. May also fit models 580, 582, 1050, 1604, 1606 and 1806. Requires shoulder bolt w/locknut. Used and in excellent condition. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.) New. OEM Cub Cadet part # 703-2000-0637. $73.55 each, plus shipping & handling. A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Weld up worn/oblong clutch release lever pivot pin holes in YOUR clutch hanger bracket, redrill holes and grind smooth. $20.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling.
Clutch Release Lever. Fits all narrow frame Cub Cadet clutch drive garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124 and 126. OEM Length Clutch Release Lever. New Old Stock or Used and In Excellent Condition. 7-7/8" overall length. Discontinued Cub Cadet part # IH-384657-R5. $65.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.) 3" Longer Heavy Heavy Clutch Release Lever. 10-7/8" overall length. $80.00 each, plus shipping & handling. A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Weld up and grind smooth worn [throw-out bearing] areas in your release lever. $20.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling.
Clutch Release Levers. Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 86, 108 and 128. Can also be used for models 800, 1000 and 1200 with solid motor mounts. New. 8-1/4" overall length. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-547631-R2. $93.45 each, plus shipping & handling. 3" Longer Heavy Heavy Clutch Release Lever. 11-1/4" overall length. $80.00 each, plus shipping & handling. A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Weld up and grind smooth worn [throw-out bearing] areas in your release lever. $20.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling.
Clutch Release Levers. Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 800, 1000 and 1200. Can also can be used for models 86, 108 and 128 with no modifications. Also for models 1250, 1450 and 1650 with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment. New. 8-1/4" overall length. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-61461-C2. $86.00 each, plus shipping & handling. 3" Longer Heavy Heavy Clutch Release Lever. 11-1/4" overall length. $80.00 each, plus shipping & handling. A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Weld up and grind smooth worn [throw-out bearing] areas in your release lever. $20.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling.
Clutch Release Levers for all spread frame IH- and MTD-built Cub Cadet garden tractor models 580, 582, 1050, 1535, 1604, 1606 and 1806. New. 9-3/4" overall length. OEM Cub Cadet part # 703-0218-0637. $60.25 each, plus shipping & handling. 3" Longer Heavy Heavy Clutch Release Lever. 12-3/4" overall length. $80.00 each, plus shipping & handling. A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Weld up and grind smooth worn [throw-out bearing] areas in your release lever. $20.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling. [Return To Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]
Clutch Adjustment/Release Rod. Fits IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor. Length: 6-9/16" from middle of bend to end of threads. New. Fabricated by A-1 Miller's. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part # IH-376277-R1. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Repair YOUR worn clutch operating rod for a snug fit in [repaired hole of] clutch arm (listed above). $20.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling. Clutch Adjustment/Release Rod. Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124 and 126. Washer welded on rod; can be used for general yard and garden work or competition pulling. Length: 9" from middle of bend to end of threads. New. Fabricated by A-1 Miller's. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part # IH-405590-R1. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Clutch Adjustment/Release Rods. Each fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 86, 108, 128, 800, 1000 and 1200 (models 800, 1000 and 1200 with caliper/axle brakes.) Washer welded on rod; can be used for general yard and garden work or competition pulling. Length: 11-1/16" from middle of bend to end of threads. NOTE: Clutch adjustment/release rod for Cub Cadet garden tractor models 800, 1000 and 1200 with the internal brake no longer available from Cub Cadet (part # IH-117338-C2). New. Fabricated by A-1 Miller's. Modified Cub Cadet part # IH-544133-R3. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling. New. OEM Cub Cadet part# IH-544133-R3. $58.35 each, plus shipping & handling. Clutch Adjustment/Release Rod. Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 580, 582, 1050, 1535, 1604, 1606 and 1806. Washer welded on rod; can be used for general yard and garden work or competition pulling. Length: 11-9/64" from middle of bend to end of threads. New. Fabricated by A-1 Miller's. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part # 747-3021A. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Custom Length 3/8" Diameter Clutch Adjustment/Release Rods Made Upon Request. When ordering, please specify length of threads, and length from end of threads to inside bend, and length of short angled part to inside bend, and where the hole for the cotter pin needs to be drilled.
Nylon Insert Self-Locking Nuts for 3/8" diameter threaded L-shaped clutch adjustment/release rods listed above. Replace OEM adjusting nut with worn threads to maintain correct clutch adjustment on virtually all Cub Cadet clutch drive garden tractors. Grade 8 material with 3/8-24 UNF threads. NOTE: Use a (9/16" size) boxed-in ratcheting wrench for much easier and precise clutch adjustment. High quality aftermarket nylon insert self-locking nut. $1.50 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Cub Cadet nylon insert self-locking nut, part # 912-3061. $5.55 each, plus shipping & handling.
Clutch Release Tension Compression Springs. Fits all models of Cub Cadet clutch drive garden tractors. Slides over threaded end of 3/8" diameter L-shaped clutch release/adjustment rod (listed above). A must for proper adjustment in Cub Cadet clutch drive garden tractors to prevent premature wear to clutch release/throw-out bearing and clutch release lever, and to prevent annoying rattling sound when the clearance between the throw-out bearing and release lever is set correctly. High quality aftermarket. Dimensions: 13/32" I.D. x 3-3/4" uncompressed length. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Cub Cadet part # 932-3023. $18.25 each, plus shipping & handling.
Clutch Pedal Return Spring. 2-1/2" Unextended Length. Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 100, 102, 104, 105, 122, 123, 124 and 125. Replace damaged, weak or missing pedal return spring. Prevents premature (and expensive) wear to clutch release/throw-out bearing and clutch release lever, and to prevent annoying rattling sound when the clearance between the throw-out bearing and release lever is adjusted correctly. OEM spring no longer available from Cub Cadet. Heavy duty, high quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part # IH-370278-R2. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Clutch Pedal Return Springs. 2-3/4" Unextended Length. Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 73, 86, 106, 107, 108, 109, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 580, 582, 1604, 1606, brakes and connections on model 582 w/serial number 720000 and below, 800, 1000, 1200, 1050 w/serial numbers 756,300-799,999, brakes-1535 w/serial numbers 800,000-821,059, brakes-1806 w/serial number 756,300-799,999. Replace damaged, weak or missing pedal return spring. Prevents premature (and expensive) wear to clutch release/throw-out bearing and clutch release lever, and to prevent annoying rattling sound when the clearance between the throw-out bearing and release lever is adjusted correctly. Heavy duty, high quality aftermarket. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Cub Cadet part # 932-3015. $11.55 each, plus shipping & handling. [Return To Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]

How to Rebuild and Improve the Cub Cadet Drive Clutch Assembly

Use ALUMINUM as Clutch Disc Material!