Important Information About the IH Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Oil Pan

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Normal High Speed or Wide Open Throttle Engine Vibration in Competition Pulling Can Cause an Oil Pan to Loosen and Possibly Break!

To prevent the oil pan from becoming loose under a competition pulling situation, if necessary, first have the flywheel and crankshaft and piston/connecting rod assembly dynamically and precision spin-balanced, and DO NOT USE AN OIL PAN GASKET! Instead of a gasket, apply a thin bead of clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant between the block and pan, then torque the bolts (use grade 8 bolts with split lock washers) to 35 ft. lbs. The absence of the gasket will allow direct metal-to-metal contact, which keeps the bolts securely tight, with the silicone sealant filling in any imperfections between the two metals, eliminating oil leaks. By the way - I've always preferred to use clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant for three reasons: Due to metal warpage (which is unavoidable in most cases), gaskets don't always seal the irregularities and imperfections between mating surfaces, especially thin metal covers; being it's an adhesive, it bonds parts together, forming a leak-proof seal; and being it's clear, a thin bead of silicone makes for a clean and professional-looking repair job. When applied sparingly, it can't be easily seen or noticed between the parts.

On a Cub Cadet garden tractor, the only thing that fastens the engine block to the tractor frame is the oil pan. When choosing which oil pan material to use for competitive pulling, an OEM Kohler cast aluminum oil pan can be safely used on a stock pulling tractor that will not run over 4,000 RPM. It's best to install stainless steel Heli-Coil thread inserts in the mounting holes of an aluminum oil pan to prevent stripping the soft threads. And a cast iron, billet aluminum or machined steel oil pan should be used on an engine that will operate at very high RPM or at wide open throttle.

On a Kohler competition pulling engine that turns well above 4,000 RPM, at high RPM or at wide open throttle, the oil pan could loosen because the gasket acts like a cushion between the engine block and oil pan. At high RPM, normal engine vibration (caused by crankshaft side thrust, which is unavoidable in a single cylinder engine) can cause the engine block and oil pan to "shift" against each other a few thousands of an inch, allowing the gasket to flatten out overtime. When this happens, the bolts that fasten the pan to the block loosens. But the bolts don't actually rotate to loosen, they just lose their torque or tightness against the pan because of the flattened gasket. Which could crack or break the oil pan on one corner where the metal is thin and weakest. And applying liquid threadlocker on the oil pan retaining bolt threads will not help because if the gasket flattens out, although the bolts will not rotate to loosen, the oil pan will still loosen.

FYI - If oil leaks from an engine, transmission/transaxle or steering box, causing an oily mess on a concrete floor, mineral spirits (paint thinner) can be used to dry out the oil. Just pour some thinner on the oil, use a broom to thoroughly mix the thinner with the oil, and eventually the oil will dry with no signs of it ever being on the floor. Because of its low volatile flammability, paint thinner also works great as a cleaning solvent, which is used to clean oily or greasy mechanical parts.

By the way - it's a good idea to use split lock washers on ALL fasteners, to prevent other parts on the tractor from becoming loose later. And if you're concerned about driveshaft misalignment or clutch pin binding when not using an oil pan gasket, install a 1/32" (.030") thickness steel shim at each mounting hole between the oil pan and tractor frame. This will maintain proper driveshaft alignment with the engine so the clutch parts will last longer. So if somebody recommends using an oil pan gasket on a competition pulling engine that's going to turn well above 4,000 RPM, don't do it! Don't take chances! You could be sorry. Because sometimes listening to the wrong person can be very costly.

The Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" rubber ISO-mounted engine garden tractor models 680, 800, 1000, 1200, 1250, 1450, 1650 are notorious for cracking the cast aluminum oil pan because the pan fastens to two rails, which are independently mounted on rubber and are isolated from the main tractor frame. If the oil pan bolts aren't securely tightened, and due to normal engine vibration, sometimes the pan will develop a hair-line crack or break off at the corner, where the metal is the weakest, especially with an oil pan gasket. I've also seen them crack and . The same can happen with a cast iron oil pan. What happens is when a gasket is used, and when the pan bolts are tightened, the person who assembled the engine tightened the bolt on the corner on the PTO end of the block, then tightened the opposing bolt at the flywheel end of the block, and then tightened the other two remaining bolts. The first bolt that was tightened crushed the gasket, which caused a small, hair-line crack in the corner of the pan. Some people torque them with a gasket the wrong way. The correct sequence for torquing oil pan bolts is to lightly tighten one bolt on the flywheel end, then lightly tighten the bolt at the opposite corner on the PTO end, then lightly tighten another bolt, then lightly tighten the last bolt. Finally, torque each bolt to 35 ft. lbs. This procedure distributes equal pressure of each bolt without bending, warping or cracking the pan. Or better yet, just use clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant with no gasket. With no gasket, the pan will make direct contact with the block and they're be no bending, warping, cracking or breaking of the pan when the bolts are securely tightened. By the way - I've always preferred to use clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant for three reasons: Due to metal warpage (which is unavoidable in most cases), gaskets don't always seal the irregularities and imperfections between mating surfaces, especially thin metal covers; being it's an adhesive, it bonds parts together, forming a leak-proof seal; and being it's clear, a thin bead of silicone makes for a clean and professional-looking repair job. When applied sparingly, it can't be easily seen or noticed between the parts.

Identification of Kohler Engine Blocks -

Garden tractors that originally came from the factory with a straight or narrow base Kohler engine block are: IH-built and MTD-built Cub Cadet garden tractors, J.I. Case, John Deere (models 112, 110 and early model 210 with the Kohler K241 engine. Model 112 serial number 100,001 – 250,000, model 110 serial number 250,001 and up with the Kohler K241 engine, and 210 up to serial number 95,261), some Ford, some Jacobsen and Springfield. (The oil pan used on the John Deere and Springfield Kohler-equipped garden tractors are made of cast iron, identical to the early Cub Cadet/K241 flat bottom oil pan.)

And garden tractors that originally came from the factory with a flanged or wide base Kohler engine block are: Ariens, Wheel Horse, some Ford, some Jacobsen, Gravely, New Holland, Sears Suburban, Engineering Products Co. (Economy models) and Allis Chalmers. No Cub Cadet garden tractor originally came with a wide base Kohler engine block.

A flanged or wide base single cylinder Kohler engine block is made for the wide or large [2 quart] rectangular oil pan. These blocks can be converted for use with a narrow Cub Cadet garden tractor (or certain models of John Deere) oil pan, so the engine can fit inside the frame rails of a Cub Cadet garden tractor. Below is how to do the conversion.

An oxy-acetylene cutting torch can be used to cut off the flanges. When doing so, cut from the bottom of the block and position the flame at an angle (away from the block) so it won't get the block itself too hot. Fasten an angled plate on the block to guide the torch so it will perform a straight cut. After cutting off the flanges, to prevent possibly cracking the block, don't use water to cool the heated area! Allow the block to air-cool. For appearance, grind away any protruding metal or slag.

Or a portable plasma cutter (50+ amp models works best for thicker metal) can be used for quick and easy cutting off the flanges. Again, fasten an angled plate on the block to guide the cutting tip so it will perform a straight cut. The block shouldn't be too hot afterwards with the plasma cutter. If it is, to prevent cracking the block, don't use water to cool the heated area! Allow it to air-cool. For appearance, grind away any protruding metal or slag.

If a cutting torch or plasma cutter isn't available, then a vertical/horizontal bandsaw or a reciprocating saw (saw-saw; takes longer and require more effort) with a metal cutting fine-tooth blade can be used to cut the flanges off the block. Use caution doing it this way! The block must be held securely in the correct position to prevent binding of the blade and/or cutting through something else on the block. When finished cutting off the flanges, for appearance, grind away any protruding metal.

After cutting off the flanges, if there's oil fill/level check openings on each side of the block, the angled part of the opening will need to be ground flat, and a couple of 1/2" x 1/2" x 1-3/8" long steel stock pieces will need to be welded into the notches (see below Ê). After the welding process, for the oil pan to lay flat against the block, place a machinist straight edge against the bottom of the block and if necessary, use a large flat file or lightly grind the steel and/or weld so it's flush or even with the bottom of the block.

IMPORTANT! Use a (preferably new) 3/8-16 NC TAPER hand tap to cut new threads in the holes that's present in the block. (A taper tap removes less metal during the cutting process, making cutting new threads much easier and less chance of breaking the tap off in the hole. Plus, it's self-aligning with the hole. It won't cut the threads "to one side" or cocked.) After cutting the threads the entire depth of the holes, recut them with a PLUG hand tap so the threads on the bolts will go deeper. (A plug tap is also useful for cleaning threads.) If there are no holes, use a narrow oil pan as a template, and a 3/8" transfer punch to mark exactly where the holes need to be, then drill the holes and cut the threads.

Removing a Broken-Off Tap - A threading tap that has broken off in an engine block or metal casting can be very difficult to remove. About all I can tell you is to either take your block to a reputable machine shop to have the tap removed, or go here and try to do it yourself: https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=removing+broken+tap+from+hole. Actually, it's best to use a TAPER hand tap to cut new threads and clean out existing threads. If used correctly, a TAPER tap is less likely to break off. Click or tap here to learn how to cut new threads, the professional way.

Install an oil pan that's made for a narrow base engine block, such as a Cub Cadet garden tractor or certain models of John Deere garden tractors. (See below Ê)

For pulling applications, apply a thin bead of clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant when fastening the pan to the block. Otherwise, for general lawn and garden use, use a gasket and the silicone to lessen the chance of any oil leaks. By the way - I've always preferred to use clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant for three reasons: Due to metal warpage (which is unavoidable in most cases), gaskets don't always seal the irregularities and imperfections between mating surfaces, especially thin metal covers; being it's an adhesive, it bonds parts together, forming a leak-proof seal; and being it's clear, a thin bead of silicone makes for a clean and professional-looking repair job. When applied sparingly, it can't be easily seen or noticed between the parts.

How to Weld Steel to Cast Iron...

First of all, being cast iron is porous, it soaks up oil like a sponge. (This is why all cast iron Cub Cadet garden tractor transaxles are painted on the inside, to keep oil from seeping through the case to the outside.) Anyway, the area that's to be welded first must be heated with an acetylene torch to burn the oil out of the iron. Be careful not to get the iron too hot! Overheating could cause it to crack. Heat it just enough so all the oil evaporates and the iron appears dry.
Grind the edges of the cast iron and steel pieces creating a "V" shape area so the weld will lay into this and not be "lumped up." This will help bond the two pieces together better.
Use a wire-feed MIG welder with mild steel welding wire or a stick welder with a nickel rod, and weld the steel to the cast iron like you would with ordinary steel to steel. Allow the welded area to air-cool. Don't apply water to the weld! Doing this may separate the weld from the iron.

To identify a Cub Cadet garden tractor oil pan, first of all, they're exactly 1-1/16" tall. The pan to tractor frame holes measures exactly 4-15/16" x 7-5/8". From the base of the Cub Cadet pan to the centerline of the crankshaft for the K241-K361 Kohler engines, the measurement (height) is exactly 4.750" (4-3/4"). And with a wide base oil pan, it measures 6.125" (6-1/8"). These measurements are with the compressed (.030" thickness) oil pan gasket installed.

Cub Cadet garden tractor oil pans have either a flat bottom or deep sump. The flat bottom pans are originally made for the K241 engine, but will work with no problem on the K301, K321, K341 and K361 engines, but half of the oil dipper on the connecting rod must be cut off. The deep sump ones are suitable for stroker engines. The flat bottom pan holds 1 quart of oil, and the deep sump one holds 1-1/2 quarts. If a deep sump oil pan is used on an engine that originally came with a flat bottom oil pan, the oil dipper on the connecting rod will be too short and won't be able to splash as much oil to thoroughly lubricate the parts.

The length of the dipper on the connecting rod when shortened must be no shorter than 1-5/8" in length, when measured from the bottom of the rod cap to the end of the dipper. And a short dipper will help to increase the engine power. If a K241 Kohler engine has a small, flat bottom Cub Cadet oil pan, the connecting rod has short dipper. But if it has a large, wide base pan, the rod has a long dipper. The K301-K361 engines all come with a deep sump oil pan, as well as a large, wide base oil pan. Therefore, their connecting rods have a long dipper.

If it's an oil pan that's designed for a Cub Cadet garden tractor, then the shallow and deep oil pans are the same (except for the oil quantity) and will fit virtually all models of Cub Cadet garden tractors. A longer dipper on the connecting rod is not really necessary, but it will provide better lubrication if the oil level were to get low. And the oil level full mark on the oil dipstick will register the same regardless of the type of oil pan is used.

If an oil pan has the drain plug in the wrong location, another drain plug can be installed by finding an area on the pan where the metal is thicker than the surrounding area. These places are specially made by the factory to drill and cut threads for the oil drain plug.

Oil Refill Quantities for Older Kohler Engines - IMPORTANT: Make sure the correct oil dipstick is used and it's calibrated correctly! *NOTE: Add 1/8 quart for a competition pulling tractor with a lowered front-end that have a single cylinder longitudinal engine.

Engine Model(s)

Engine Model(s)

Engine Model(s)*

Engine Model(s)*

Engine Model(s)

Engine Model(s)

Engine Model(s)

K90/K91 K141, K160/K161, K181, L160/L161, L181 and M8 K241A, M10, K301A, M12, K321A, M14, K341A, M16 K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341, M16, K361 KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, M18, M20
MV16, MV18, MV20
K482, K532, K582, K660/K662

3/4 Quart 1-1/4 Quarts (Full mark is 3/8" above oil pan gasket.) 1 Quart for engines with a flat bottom narrow base oil pan. 1-1/2 Quarts for engines with a deep sump narrow base oil pan. (Full mark is 3/8" above oil pan gasket.) 2 Quarts for engines with a wide base oil pan. (Full mark 3/8" above oil pan gasket.) 1 Quart without oil filter | 1-1/2 Quarts with oil filter.
1-1/4 Quarts without oil filter | 1-3/4 Quarts with oil filter.
3 Quarts | Add 1/2 quart for K482, K4532, K582 when replacing filter. Add 1 quart for K660/K662 when replacing filter.

The best way I found to clean old gasket material from the oil pan and other flat surface engine parts is with a large flat coarse file with the pan (or part) gently clamped in a large bench vise. Be careful not to file off the metal!

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Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website.

Oil Level Check and Drain Plugs with Tapered Threads and Square Head listed below. A-1 Miller's oil drain plugs have a super strong rare earth/neodymium magnet. Five times stronger than competitor's ceramic (ferrite) magnet and resists demagnetization. Plugs listed below can be used on various other makes and models of transmissions, transaxles, gearboxes and small engine crankcases. Tapered threads requires no sealing gasket or sealant, and threads will not strip out when tightened. To avoid cracking oil pan, do not over-tighten! When in doubt, use plumber's thread sealing tape to insure proper sealing of threads to prevent a possible oil leak. Universal application. Magnet attracts and removes ferrous metallic wear fragments from the motor oil or transmission/gearbox to reduce engine or gear/bearing wear. Sometimes some of the ferrous wear fragments settle to the bottom of the oil pan and do not drain out with the oil when performing an oil change, even when the oil is hot. Magnetic drain plugs are suitable for engines with splash oil lubrication (no oil pump/filter). The engine, transmission, transaxle or gearbox will last much longer with uncontaminated and cleaner oil. Remember - metal flake looks good in paint, not in oil.
FYI - If you don't know or can't find any information on the maximum oil quantity for any specific gear drive transmission, transaxle, right angle gearbox, or garden tiller sealed chaincase or gearbox, well, the unit in question is full when oil runs out of the oil level check/fill plug hole that's located halfway [of the drive axles or lower output shaft(s)] on the side(s), front or rear of the unit. All of these fill this way. When the unit is in motion, the lower gears in a transmission or transaxle picks up the oil and slings it on the upper gears, shafts and bearings to lubricate them. And in automotive rear ends, the ring gear picks up the oil and slings it on the pinion gear, spider gears, shafts and bearings to lubricate them. Due to high friction between the gear teeth in transmissions, transaxles, right angle gearboxes and garden tiller gearboxes, or an "open" (non-locking, free-spinning) rear end or in an automotive rear end with a Detroit Locker, SAE 90 weight gear oil must be used. But in an automotive Posi-Trac limited-slip differential, SAE 90W140 weight gear oil must be used to prevent chattering of the locking clutches going around turns. And due to much less friction of roller chain(s) on sprocket teeth in a sealed chaincase, 10W30, 10W40 or SAE 30 weight heavy duty motor oil can be safely used. In front-wheel-drive vehicles, the differential is typically built into the transmission or transaxle, and shares the same transmission fluid, rather it be SAE 90 weight gear oil for a manual shift transmission or ATF for an automatic transmission.
1/8" NPT Oil Level and Drain Plugs. (0.405" O.D. tapered threads.) All MTD-built Cub Cadet garden tractor aluminum housing creeper drive units are packed with grease from the factory. Therefore, for better lubrication and less wear inside the creeper drive unit, install ordinary plug on opposite side of unit of shifter to serve as an oil level check, and install magnetic plug on bottom of unit to attractive metallic wear fragments and drain/change the oil. Entire creeper unit must be completely disassembled and cleaned, a hole drilled midway on the side, another hole drilled on the bottom, and both holes will need to be threaded with an 1/8" NPT hand tap for the plugs. Then fill unit through the breather opening with SAE 90 weight gear oil. $8.00 for both plugs, plus shipping & handling.
1/4" NPT Magnetic Oil Drain Plug. (0.540" O.D. tapered threads.) Fits various Briggs & Stratton, Kohler, Tecumseh, and various other makes and models of small engines. A-1 Miller's part. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # X-75-2. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
3/8" NPT Magnetic Oil Drain Plugs. (0.675" O.D. tapered threads.) Fits various Briggs & Stratton, Kohler, Tecumseh, and various other makes and models of small engines.

A-1 Miller's part. Replaces Kohler part # X-305-4-S. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
OEM Kohler part # X-305-4-S. $18.35 each, plus shipping & handling.

1/2" NPT Magnetic Oil Drain Plug. (0.840" O.D. tapered threads.) Fits side of oil pan on Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181, L161, L181 and M8 engines, and oil drain on Cub Cadet garden tractor transaxles, various automotive manual shift transmissions, and various other makes and models of small engines. A-1 Miller's part. Not available from Kohler. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
3/4" NPT Magnetic Oil Drain Plug. (1.050" O.D. tapered threads.) Fits various Briggs & Stratton, Kohler, Tecumseh, and various other makes and models of small engines. A-1 Miller's part. Not available from Kohler. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
5/8" I.D. Fiber Sealing Gasket. Fits OEM Kohler 3/8" NPT Oil Drain Plug with Hex Head. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 241063. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
3/4-10 UNC (Straight Threads) Magnetic Oil Drain Plug. Use to replace OEM Kohler 3/8" NPT oil drain plug with stripped threads in [aluminum] oil pan. Includes fiber sealing gasket. NOTE: Threads in oil pan must be enlarged with a 3/4-10 UNC hand tap. A-1 Miller's part. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Super Strong Rare Earth/Neodymium Magnets for Engines, Transmissions, Transaxles and Gearboxes. Attracts and removes ferrous metallic wear fragments from the lubricating oil inside an engine that does not have an oil pump with an oil filter, or inside a transmission, transaxle or gearbox to lessen wear and noise to gears and bearings. Sometimes some of the wear fragments settle to the bottom of the oil pan, engine block or gearbox and do not drain out with the oil when performing an oil change, even when the oil is hot. Install magnet in bottom of oil pan away from the oil dipper and any moving parts, or in bottom of a transmission, transaxle or gearbox away from rotating gears and any moving parts. Use Krazy Glue, Super Glue, Gorilla Glue, or any industrial strength adhesive to secure magnet in place. The engine, transmission, transaxle or gearbox will last much longer with uncontaminated and cleaner oil. These rare earth/neodymium magnets are EXTREMELY strong! Use caution when handling! Can be difficult to remove from a steel or cast iron surface, are very brittle and can break easily if mishandled. Remember - metal flake looks good in paint, not in oil. A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please do not accept advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.)

Rectangular Magnet. Dimensions: 20mm x 10mm x 2mm. Use in confined spaces, such as the deep sump oil pan for Cub Cadet garden tractor engines. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Round Magnet. Dimensions: 25mm x 2mm. Use in wide, open spaces or flat bottom oil pans. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Rectangular Magnet. Dimensions: 20mm x 10mm x 2mm. Use in confined spaces, such as the deep sump oil pan for Cub Cadet garden tractor engines. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Round Magnet. Dimensions: 25mm x 2mm. Use in wide, open spaces or flat bottom oil pans. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Metal Cover Plate for blocking off oil dipstick tube hole on starter side of engine block on various Kohler engine models K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341, M16 and K361 when the cam gear cover type of oil dipstick tube is used.

Expansion Cup Plug. Alternative to using metal cover plate below. 1-1/16" diameter. OEM Kohler part # 25 139 47-S. $2.10 each, plus shipping & handling.
Metal Cover Plate. Alternative to using cup plug above. Made of 1/8" thick aluminum or steel. Gasket and screws not included; install with clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant or gasket below. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # 237262. Fabricated A-1 Miller part. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Gasket for Oil Fill Tube Adaptor to Block. Included in complete engine rebuild gasket sets. OEM Kohler part # 237064-S. $6.90 each, plus shipping & handling.

Oil Pan Gaskets. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181, L161, L181 and M8. Included in complete engine rebuild gasket set.

High quality aftermarket. $3.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
OEM Kohler part # 41 041 03-S. $6.65 each, plus shipping & handling.

Oil Pan Gaskets. .030" Thickness. Fits narrow base block Kohler engine models K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341, M16 and K361 with a narrow cast aluminum or cast iron oil pan, or if the block have been converted for use with a narrow base oil pan. Included in complete engine rebuild gasket set. When ordering, please specify if you have a wide or narrow base block or oil pan. Click or tap here to determine if your engine is a wide or narrow base block.

High quality aftermarket. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
OEM Kohler part # 235353-S. $7.65 each, plus shipping & handling.

Oil Pan Gasket. .060" Thickness. Fits narrow base block Kohler K-series engine models K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341, M16 and K361. To be used with a pressed steel sheet metal oil pan. Special use part; not included in complete engine rebuild gasket set. When ordering, please specify if you have a wide or narrow base block or oil pan. Click or tap here to determine if your engine is a wide or narrow base block.

OEM Kohler part # 47 041 07-S. $16.60 each, plus shipping & handling.

Oil Pan Gaskets. Fits wide base block Kohler engine models K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341, M16 and K361 with a wide base block. Included in complete engine rebuild gasket set. Please specify if you have a wide or narrow base block or oil pan. Click or tap here to determine if your engine is a wide or narrow base block.

High quality aftermarket. $3.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
OEM Kohler part # 235057-S. $7.35 each, plus shipping & handling.

Oil Pan Mounting Bolts. Fits Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341, M16 and K361. Grade 8 hex head bolts, 3/8-24 UNC (coarse thread) threads x 1-1/2" length. Torque at 35 ft. lb.

High quality aftermarket with split lock washers. $5.00 per four, plus shipping & handling.
OEM Kohler part # X-159-4-S. $2.55 each, plus shipping & handling.

Repair Service: Repair stripped aluminum oil pan mounting bolt hole threads. No need to purchase another oil pan! $5.00 each for parts and labor, plus return shipping & handling.

Cast Aluminum, Narrow Base, Flat Bottom Oil Pan. Fits Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341, M16 and K361 with a narrow base block, or if the flanges have been cut off, and the block is converted for use with a narrow base oil pan. Comes with bottom drain, but can be drilled and tapped in thick metal boss for side drain if desired to meet equipment's specification. Clean and in excellent condition, with good bolt thread holes and no cracks. Heli-Coil thread repair inserts installed if necessary. This will fit all IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractors, and John Deere models 110, 112 and early model 210 with the Kohler K241 engines. Model 112 serial number 100,001 – 250,000, 110 serial number 250,001 and up with the Kohler K241 engine, and 210 up to serial number 95,261. These will also fit Wheel Horse garden tractors. Holds 1 quart of oil. Weighs 1.3 lb. Discontinued OEM Kohler part # 237588-S.

Used and in excellent condition. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
Install Heli-Coil Thread Inserts to Repair Stripped Mounting Bolt Holes in YOUR Aluminum Oil Pan. FYI - Heli-Coil thread inserts installed in an aluminum oil pan makes it just as strong as the cast iron oil pan. $40.00 for all 4 bolt holes, plus return shipping & handling.

Cast Iron, Narrow Base, Flat Bottom Oil Pan. Fits Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341, M16 and K361 with a narrow base block, or if the flanges have been cut off, and the block is converted for use with a narrow base oil pan. Comes with bottom drain, but can be drilled and tapped in thick metal boss for side drain if desired to meet equipment's specification. Clean and in excellent condition, with good bolt thread holes and no cracks. This is also an exact replacement for John Deere models 110, 112 and early model 210 with the Kohler K241 engines. Model 112 serial number 100,001 – 250,000, 110 serial number 250,001 and up with the Kohler K241 engine, and 210 up to serial number 95,261. These will also fit Wheel Horse garden tractors. Clean and in excellent condition, including good bolt threads. Holds 1 quart of oil. Weighs 4.1 lb. Discontinued OEM Kohler part # 235352.

Used and in excellent condition. $60.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)

Cast Aluminum, Narrow Base, Deep Sump Oil Pans. Fits Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341, M16 and K361 with a narrow base block, or if the flanges have been cut off, and the block is converted for use with a narrow base oil pan. Comes with bottom drain only. Clean and in excellent condition, with good bolt thread holes and no cracks. Heli-Coil thread repair inserts installed if necessary. Suitable for general lawn and garden use or 4,000 RPM stock competition pulling engines. NOTE: For better lubrication, these oil pans require a full length oil dipper on the connecting rod. Holds 1-1/2 quarts of oil. Weighs 1.85 lb. Discontinued OEM Kohler part # 47 199 09-S.

Used and in excellent condition. $60.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
Install Heli-Coil Thread Inserts to Repair Stripped Mounting Bolt Holes in YOUR Aluminum Oil Pan. FYI - Heli-Coil thread inserts installed in an aluminum oil pan makes it just as strong as the cast iron oil pan. $40.00 for all 4 bolt holes, plus return shipping & handling.

Cast Iron, Narrow Base, Deep Sump Oil Pan. Fits Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341, M16 and K361 with a narrow base block, or if the flanges have been cut off, and the block is converted for use with a narrow base oil pan. Comes with bottom drain only. Clean and in excellent condition, with good bolt thread holes and no cracks. Suitable for general yard and garden engines for durability and for stroker competition pulling engines. NOTE: For better lubrication, these oil pans require a full length oil dipper on the connecting rod. Holds 1-1/2 quarts of oil. Weighs 5.4 lb. Discontinued OEM Kohler part # 236328.

Used and in excellent condition. $100.00 each or price depends on availability, plus shipping & handling. (When available; hard to find nowadays because not many were made.)

Cast Iron,Wide Base, Oil Pan. Fits Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341, M16 and K361 with a wide base/flanged block. Comes with side drain, but can be drilled and tapped in bottom for bottom drain if desired to meet equipment's specification. Clean and in excellent condition, with good bolt thread holes and no cracks. These come on various makes of tractors such as: Ariens, Wheel Horse, some Ford, some Jacobsen, Gravely, New Holland, Sears Suburban, Engineering Products Co. (Economy models) and Allis Chalmers. NOTE: For better lubrication, these oil pans require a full length oil dipper on the connecting rod. Holds 2 quarts of oil.

Used and in excellent condition. With side drain; most common. OEM Kohler part # 235115-S. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
Used and in excellent condition. With bottom drain. OEM Kohler part # 235147-S. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
New. With side drain; most common. OEM Kohler part # 235115-S. $243.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
New. With bottom drain. OEM Kohler part # 235147-S. $263.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Click Here for Detailed Illustrated Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back and Self-Propelled Garden Tractor Pulling Sled (Available Soon)

To place an order, send your item(s) for repairing, and/or for customer service assistance, and FREE honest and accurate technical support, please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-554-9008 (new number; land line) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; call or text). Call in your order or email us a list parts you need. Payment Options. Please call Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone, except holidays. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian on the phone, please be patient and understanding because I stutter.) E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.

A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone, with an appointment on weekends, except holidays. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally purchase parts, or drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine parts, etc., for repairing and/or rebuilding. Or visit our new shop at 12091 N. Rt. B, Hallsville, MO 65255 to drop off your entire engine, transmission, transaxle, entire garden tractor, small motorized vehicle, etc. Please call, text or email me before coming so I'll be at my shop waiting for your arrival. When you visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with the owner for the best customer service. Directions to our (old) shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. "The road to a [trusted] friend's house (or shop) is never long." Don't sacrifice quality workmanship for distance. [Return To Previous Paragraph, Section or Website]

By the way - As business is booming, we're going to relocate our business soon at 12091 N. Rt. B, Hallsville, MO 65255 with a bigger, better, fully insulated, heated and air-conditioned building/shop (shouse) so we can provide many more high quality parts and professional services, and hire more reliable and knowledgeable help to have our customer's parts orders fulfilled sooner, parts repairs and engine rebuilds performed promptly without delay. We will also offer custom welding fabrication jobs and other custom services. We will also provide pick up and delivery service and perform professional repairs for various small engines and lawn & garden equipment! Photos of our new building/shop are posted here! 12091 N. Rt. B, Hallsville, MO 65255 - Google Maps

To place an order, please call the number below Ê or send an email with your name, complete and correct postal address and phone number and so I can figure the total with shipping cost and USPS Tracking. For payment options for parts ordered or services performed, or to make a donation to my websites, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge), Western Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram Money Transfers. (If a part for a specific purpose is special ordered, your debit/credit card may be charged for the full amount or as a deposit right after your order is placed; please do not send your debit/credit card information in email!) Or you can pay A-1 Miller's through PayPal. (My PayPal account name is my email address. And be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment is for.) If sending a money order, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone number and a description of what the payment is for. My mailing address and phone number are below Ê . I'll make a note of your order, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send the parts to you as soon as I have everything in stock after I receive your payment.

IMPORTANT - When sending your part(s) to A-1 Miller's for rebuilding or repair, package everything securely so the item(s) won't get damaged in shipping and please include a note in the box with your name, mailing address, phone number (in case I have any questions) and a description of what you want done. When shipping heavy parts, it's best to put a slightly smaller box inside a larger box, to double the strength and integrity of the package. Because the clumsy "gorillas" or incompetent and uncaring workers that work for certain delivery services mishandle the heavy packages and don't care. And when the work is completed, I'll either call or email you an invoice with the total including shipping & handling.

Payment Options and We Ship to Canada and Worldwide
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S. territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground or equivalent services. We try to keep our shipping cost to customers within reason. Therefore, we don't ship our products in a fancy-looking package with our company name and/or logo on it because most customers will just toss it in the trash after they remove the contents. And being there is no USPS tracking number outside the US, all I can do is make sure I write your address correctly on the customs form and on your package.

My websites are not set up to process orders and accept payments. Therefore, for payment options, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total amount for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge), Western Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram Money Transfers. If paying with a credit/debit card, please call me at either number below. To make a payment to me through PayPal, please click this link: https://www.paypal.me/PullingTractor. Or to make a payment to me (pullingtractor@aol.com) in the US through the Venmo app, please click this link: venmo.com. Or use Cash App to make a payment to me (pullingtractor@aol.com). And be sure to mention in PayPal, Venmo or Cash App a description of what the payment is for with your full name, postal address, phone number and email address. If sending a money order or cashier's check, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete mailing address, phone number, email address and a description of what the payment is for. I'll make a note of your order when I have all your information, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send everything on your list to you as soon as I have the parts in stock after I receive your payment.

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Engine Model(s)	Engine Model(s)	Engine Model(s)*	Engine Model(s)*	Engine Model(s)	Engine Model(s)	Engine Model(s)
K90/K91	K141, K160/K161, K181, L160/L161, L181 and M8	K241A, M10, K301A, M12, K321A, M14, K341A, M16	K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341, M16, K361	KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, M18, M20	MV16, MV18, MV20	K482, K532, K582, K660/K662
3/4 Quart	1-1/4 Quarts (Full mark is 3/8" above oil pan gasket.)	1 Quart for engines with a flat bottom narrow base oil pan. 1-1/2 Quarts for engines with a deep sump narrow base oil pan. (Full mark is 3/8" above oil pan gasket.)	2 Quarts for engines with a wide base oil pan. (Full mark 3/8" above oil pan gasket.)	1 Quart without oil filter \| 1-1/2 Quarts with oil filter.	1-1/4 Quarts without oil filter \| 1-3/4 Quarts with oil filter.	3 Quarts \| Add 1/2 quart for K482, K4532, K582 when replacing filter. Add 1 quart for K660/K662 when replacing filter.

Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website.
Oil Level Check and Drain Plugs with Tapered Threads and Square Head listed below. A-1 Miller's oil drain plugs have a super strong rare earth/neodymium magnet. Five times stronger than competitor's ceramic (ferrite) magnet and resists demagnetization. Plugs listed below can be used on various other makes and models of transmissions, transaxles, gearboxes and small engine crankcases. Tapered threads requires no sealing gasket or sealant, and threads will not strip out when tightened. To avoid cracking oil pan, do not over-tighten! When in doubt, use plumber's thread sealing tape to insure proper sealing of threads to prevent a possible oil leak. Universal application. Magnet attracts and removes ferrous metallic wear fragments from the motor oil or transmission/gearbox to reduce engine or gear/bearing wear. Sometimes some of the ferrous wear fragments settle to the bottom of the oil pan and do not drain out with the oil when performing an oil change, even when the oil is hot. Magnetic drain plugs are suitable for engines with splash oil lubrication (no oil pump/filter). The engine, transmission, transaxle or gearbox will last much longer with uncontaminated and cleaner oil. Remember - metal flake looks good in paint, not in oil. FYI - If you don't know or can't find any information on the maximum oil quantity for any specific gear drive transmission, transaxle, right angle gearbox, or garden tiller sealed chaincase or gearbox, well, the unit in question is full when oil runs out of the oil level check/fill plug hole that's located halfway [of the drive axles or lower output shaft(s)] on the side(s), front or rear of the unit. All of these fill this way. When the unit is in motion, the lower gears in a transmission or transaxle picks up the oil and slings it on the upper gears, shafts and bearings to lubricate them. And in automotive rear ends, the ring gear picks up the oil and slings it on the pinion gear, spider gears, shafts and bearings to lubricate them. Due to high friction between the gear teeth in transmissions, transaxles, right angle gearboxes and garden tiller gearboxes, or an "open" (non-locking, free-spinning) rear end or in an automotive rear end with a Detroit Locker, SAE 90 weight gear oil must be used. But in an automotive Posi-Trac limited-slip differential, SAE 90W140 weight gear oil must be used to prevent chattering of the locking clutches going around turns. And due to much less friction of roller chain(s) on sprocket teeth in a sealed chaincase, 10W30, 10W40 or SAE 30 weight heavy duty motor oil can be safely used. In front-wheel-drive vehicles, the differential is typically built into the transmission or transaxle, and shares the same transmission fluid, rather it be SAE 90 weight gear oil for a manual shift transmission or ATF for an automatic transmission. 1/8" NPT Oil Level and Drain Plugs. (0.405" O.D. tapered threads.) All MTD-built Cub Cadet garden tractor aluminum housing creeper drive units are packed with grease from the factory. Therefore, for better lubrication and less wear inside the creeper drive unit, install ordinary plug on opposite side of unit of shifter to serve as an oil level check, and install magnetic plug on bottom of unit to attractive metallic wear fragments and drain/change the oil. Entire creeper unit must be completely disassembled and cleaned, a hole drilled midway on the side, another hole drilled on the bottom, and both holes will need to be threaded with an 1/8" NPT hand tap for the plugs. Then fill unit through the breather opening with SAE 90 weight gear oil. $8.00 for both plugs, plus shipping & handling. 1/4" NPT Magnetic Oil Drain Plug. (0.540" O.D. tapered threads.) Fits various Briggs & Stratton, Kohler, Tecumseh, and various other makes and models of small engines. A-1 Miller's part. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # X-75-2. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling. 3/8" NPT Magnetic Oil Drain Plugs. (0.675" O.D. tapered threads.) Fits various Briggs & Stratton, Kohler, Tecumseh, and various other makes and models of small engines. A-1 Miller's part. Replaces Kohler part # X-305-4-S. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Kohler part # X-305-4-S. $18.35 each, plus shipping & handling. 1/2" NPT Magnetic Oil Drain Plug. (0.840" O.D. tapered threads.) Fits side of oil pan on Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181, L161, L181 and M8 engines, and oil drain on Cub Cadet garden tractor transaxles, various automotive manual shift transmissions, and various other makes and models of small engines. A-1 Miller's part. Not available from Kohler. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling. 3/4" NPT Magnetic Oil Drain Plug. (1.050" O.D. tapered threads.) Fits various Briggs & Stratton, Kohler, Tecumseh, and various other makes and models of small engines. A-1 Miller's part. Not available from Kohler. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling. 5/8" I.D. Fiber Sealing Gasket. Fits OEM Kohler 3/8" NPT Oil Drain Plug with Hex Head. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 241063. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling. 3/4-10 UNC (Straight Threads) Magnetic Oil Drain Plug. Use to replace OEM Kohler 3/8" NPT oil drain plug with stripped threads in [aluminum] oil pan. Includes fiber sealing gasket. NOTE: Threads in oil pan must be enlarged with a 3/4-10 UNC hand tap. A-1 Miller's part. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Super Strong Rare Earth/Neodymium Magnets for Engines, Transmissions, Transaxles and Gearboxes. Attracts and removes ferrous metallic wear fragments from the lubricating oil inside an engine that does not have an oil pump with an oil filter, or inside a transmission, transaxle or gearbox to lessen wear and noise to gears and bearings. Sometimes some of the wear fragments settle to the bottom of the oil pan, engine block or gearbox and do not drain out with the oil when performing an oil change, even when the oil is hot. Install magnet in bottom of oil pan away from the oil dipper and any moving parts, or in bottom of a transmission, transaxle or gearbox away from rotating gears and any moving parts. Use Krazy Glue, Super Glue, Gorilla Glue, or any industrial strength adhesive to secure magnet in place. The engine, transmission, transaxle or gearbox will last much longer with uncontaminated and cleaner oil. These rare earth/neodymium magnets are EXTREMELY strong! Use caution when handling! Can be difficult to remove from a steel or cast iron surface, are very brittle and can break easily if mishandled. Remember - metal flake looks good in paint, not in oil. A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please do not accept advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.) Rectangular Magnet. Dimensions: 20mm x 10mm x 2mm. Use in confined spaces, such as the deep sump oil pan for Cub Cadet garden tractor engines. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Round Magnet. Dimensions: 25mm x 2mm. Use in wide, open spaces or flat bottom oil pans. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Rectangular Magnet. Dimensions: 20mm x 10mm x 2mm. Use in confined spaces, such as the deep sump oil pan for Cub Cadet garden tractor engines. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Round Magnet. Dimensions: 25mm x 2mm. Use in wide, open spaces or flat bottom oil pans. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Metal Cover Plate for blocking off oil dipstick tube hole on starter side of engine block on various Kohler engine models K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341, M16 and K361 when the cam gear cover type of oil dipstick tube is used. Expansion Cup Plug. Alternative to using metal cover plate below. 1-1/16" diameter. OEM Kohler part # 25 139 47-S. $2.10 each, plus shipping & handling. Metal Cover Plate. Alternative to using cup plug above. Made of 1/8" thick aluminum or steel. Gasket and screws not included; install with clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant or gasket below. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # 237262. Fabricated A-1 Miller part. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Gasket for Oil Fill Tube Adaptor to Block. Included in complete engine rebuild gasket sets. OEM Kohler part # 237064-S. $6.90 each, plus shipping & handling.
Oil Pan Gaskets. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181, L161, L181 and M8. Included in complete engine rebuild gasket set. High quality aftermarket. $3.50 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Kohler part # 41 041 03-S. $6.65 each, plus shipping & handling. Oil Pan Gaskets. .030" Thickness. Fits narrow base block Kohler engine models K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341, M16 and K361 with a narrow cast aluminum or cast iron oil pan, or if the block have been converted for use with a narrow base oil pan. Included in complete engine rebuild gasket set. *When ordering, please specify if you have a wide or narrow base block or oil pan. Click or tap here to determine if your engine is a wide or narrow base block.* High quality aftermarket. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Kohler part # 235353-S. $7.65 each, plus shipping & handling. Oil Pan Gasket. .060" Thickness. Fits narrow base block Kohler K-series engine models K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341, M16 and K361. To be used with a pressed steel sheet metal oil pan. Special use part; not included in complete engine rebuild gasket set. *When ordering, please specify if you have a wide or narrow base block or oil pan. Click or tap here to determine if your engine is a wide or narrow base block.* OEM Kohler part # 47 041 07-S. $16.60 each, plus shipping & handling. Oil Pan Gaskets. Fits wide base block Kohler engine models K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341, M16 and K361 with a wide base block. Included in complete engine rebuild gasket set. *Please specify if you have a wide or narrow base block or oil pan. Click or tap here to determine if your engine is a wide or narrow base block.* High quality aftermarket. $3.50 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Kohler part # 235057-S. $7.35 each, plus shipping & handling.
Oil Pan Mounting Bolts. Fits Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341, M16 and K361. Grade 8 hex head bolts, 3/8-24 UNC (coarse thread) threads x 1-1/2" length. Torque at 35 ft. lb. High quality aftermarket with split lock washers. $5.00 per four, plus shipping & handling. OEM Kohler part # X-159-4-S. $2.55 each, plus shipping & handling.
*Repair Service: Repair stripped aluminum oil pan mounting bolt hole threads. No need to purchase another oil pan!* $5.00 each for parts and labor, plus return shipping & handling.**
Cast Aluminum, Narrow Base, Flat Bottom Oil Pan. Fits Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341, M16 and K361 with a narrow base block, or if the flanges have been cut off, and the block is converted for use with a narrow base oil pan. Comes with bottom drain, but can be drilled and tapped in thick metal boss for side drain if desired to meet equipment's specification. Clean and in excellent condition, with good bolt thread holes and no cracks. Heli-Coil thread repair inserts installed if necessary. This will fit all IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractors, and John Deere models 110, 112 and early model 210 with the Kohler K241 engines. Model 112 serial number 100,001 – 250,000, 110 serial number 250,001 and up with the Kohler K241 engine, and 210 up to serial number 95,261. These will also fit Wheel Horse garden tractors. Holds 1 quart of oil. Weighs 1.3 lb. Discontinued OEM Kohler part # 237588-S. Used and in excellent condition. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.) Install Heli-Coil Thread Inserts to Repair Stripped Mounting Bolt Holes in YOUR Aluminum Oil Pan. FYI - Heli-Coil thread inserts installed in an aluminum oil pan makes it just as strong as the cast iron oil pan. $40.00 for all 4 bolt holes, plus return shipping & handling.
Cast Iron, Narrow Base, Flat Bottom Oil Pan. Fits Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341, M16 and K361 with a narrow base block, or if the flanges have been cut off, and the block is converted for use with a narrow base oil pan. Comes with bottom drain, but can be drilled and tapped in thick metal boss for side drain if desired to meet equipment's specification. Clean and in excellent condition, with good bolt thread holes and no cracks. This is also an exact replacement for John Deere models 110, 112 and early model 210 with the Kohler K241 engines. Model 112 serial number 100,001 – 250,000, 110 serial number 250,001 and up with the Kohler K241 engine, and 210 up to serial number 95,261. These will also fit Wheel Horse garden tractors. Clean and in excellent condition, including good bolt threads. Holds 1 quart of oil. Weighs 4.1 lb. Discontinued OEM Kohler part # 235352. Used and in excellent condition. $60.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
Cast Aluminum, Narrow Base, Deep Sump Oil Pans. Fits Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341, M16 and K361 with a narrow base block, or if the flanges have been cut off, and the block is converted for use with a narrow base oil pan. Comes with bottom drain only. Clean and in excellent condition, with good bolt thread holes and no cracks. Heli-Coil thread repair inserts installed if necessary. Suitable for general lawn and garden use or 4,000 RPM stock competition pulling engines. NOTE: For better lubrication, these oil pans require a full length oil dipper on the connecting rod. Holds 1-1/2 quarts of oil. Weighs 1.85 lb. Discontinued OEM Kohler part # 47 199 09-S. Used and in excellent condition. $60.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.) Install Heli-Coil Thread Inserts to Repair Stripped Mounting Bolt Holes in YOUR Aluminum Oil Pan. FYI - Heli-Coil thread inserts installed in an aluminum oil pan makes it just as strong as the cast iron oil pan. $40.00 for all 4 bolt holes, plus return shipping & handling.
Cast Iron, Narrow Base, Deep Sump Oil Pan. Fits Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341, M16 and K361 with a narrow base block, or if the flanges have been cut off, and the block is converted for use with a narrow base oil pan. Comes with bottom drain only. Clean and in excellent condition, with good bolt thread holes and no cracks. Suitable for general yard and garden engines for durability and for stroker competition pulling engines. NOTE: For better lubrication, these oil pans require a full length oil dipper on the connecting rod. Holds 1-1/2 quarts of oil. Weighs 5.4 lb. Discontinued OEM Kohler part # 236328. Used and in excellent condition. $100.00 each or price depends on availability, plus shipping & handling. (When available; hard to find nowadays because not many were made.)
Cast Iron,Wide Base, Oil Pan. Fits Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341, M16 and K361 with a wide base/flanged block. Comes with side drain, but can be drilled and tapped in bottom for bottom drain if desired to meet equipment's specification. Clean and in excellent condition, with good bolt thread holes and no cracks. These come on various makes of tractors such as: Ariens, Wheel Horse, some Ford, some Jacobsen, Gravely, New Holland, Sears Suburban, Engineering Products Co. (Economy models) and Allis Chalmers. NOTE: For better lubrication, these oil pans require a full length oil dipper on the connecting rod. Holds 2 quarts of oil. Used and in excellent condition. With side drain; most common. OEM Kohler part # 235115-S. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.) Used and in excellent condition. With bottom drain. OEM Kohler part # 235147-S. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.) New. With side drain; most common. OEM Kohler part # 235115-S. $243.00 each, plus shipping & handling. New. With bottom drain. OEM Kohler part # 235147-S. $263.00 each, plus shipping & handling.