Important Information About
the Cub Cadet Oil Pan
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Normal High Speed Engine Vibration Can Cause
an Oil Pan to Loosen and Possibly Break!
On a Cub Cadet, the only thing that fastens the engine block to the tractor frame is the oil pan. An OEM cast aluminum pan can be safely used on a stock pulling engine that operates no more than 4,000 rpms. But on a high performance pulling engine that's going to run at wide open throttle, and due to normal engine vibrations, it's best to use either a cast iron or better yet, a billet aluminum or steel oil pan.
On a Kohler pulling engine that turns well above 4,000 rpm or at wide open throttle, the oil pan could loosen because the gasket acts like a cushion between the engine block and oil pan. At high rpms, normal engine vibration (caused by crankshaft side thrust, which is unavoidable in a single cylinder engine) can cause the engine block and oil pan to "shift" against each other a few thousands of an inch, allowing the gasket to flatten out overtime. When this happens, the bolts that fasten the pan to the block loosens. But the bolts don't actually rotate to loosen, they just lose their torque or tightness against the pan because of the flattened gasket. Which could crack or break the oil pan and/or engine block. And applying Loctite or Permatex threadlocker on the oil pan retaining bolt threads won't help because if the gasket flattens out, the oil pan will still loosen.
To prevent the oil pan from becoming loose under pulling conditions, first have the flywheel, crankshaft and piston/connecting rod assembly precision dynamically balanced and DON'T USE AN OIL PAN GASKET. Instead, apply a thin bead of Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant between the block and pan and then torque the bolts (use hardened grade 8 bolts with split lock washers) to 35 ft. lbs. Using silicone sealant will allow positive metal-to-metal contact, which keeps the bolts securely tight, plus it fills in any imperfections between the two metals, eliminating oil leaks. By the way - it's a good idea to use split lock washers on ALL fasteners, to prevent other parts on the tractor from becoming loose later. And if you're concerned about driveshaft misalignment or clutch pin binding when not using an oil pan gasket, install a 1/32" (.030") thickness steel shim at each mounting hole between the oil pan and tractor frame. This will maintain proper driveshaft alignment with the engine so the clutch parts will last longer.
So if somebody recommends using an oil pan gasket on a pulling engine that's going to turn well above 4,000 rpm, don't do it! Don't take chances! You could be sorry. Because sometimes listening to the wrong person can be very costly.
The Cub Cadet models 680, 800, 1000, 1200, 1250, 1450, 1650 as well other ISO-mount models are notorious for cracking the aluminum oil pan because the pan fastens to two rails, which are mounted on rubber and are independent from the main tractor frame. If the oil pan bolts aren't securely tightened, sometimes the pan will have a hairline crack. I've even seen them break off at the corner. I've also seen them crack and break off at the corner with an oil pan gasket. The same can happen with a cast iron oil pan. What happened was when the pan bolts were tightened, the person assembling the engine started at the bolt on the very corner on the PTO end of the block, and then tightened the next corner (on the PTO end of the block), and then tightened the other two bolts towards the flywheel. The bolt on the corner crushed the pan gasket, which cracked the pan. The correct sequence for torquing oil pan bolts is start with one bolt towards the flywheel, and then criss-cross until all four bolts are torqued to 35 ft. lbs. Or better yet, just use Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant and no gasket. With no gasket, the pan will rest directly on the block and they're be no bending, warping, cracking or breaking of the pan.
Identification of Kohler Engine Blocks -
Makes of garden tractors that
originally came from the factory with a straight or narrow base Kohler engine
block are: IH Cub Cadet, J.I. Case, John Deere (models 112, 110 and early
model 210 with the Kohler K241 engine. Model 112 serial number 100,001 –
250,000, 110 serial number 250,001 and up with the Kohler 10hp K241 engine,
and 210 up to serial number 95,261), some Ford, some Jacobsen and Springfield.
(The oil pan used on the John Deere and Springfield Kohler-equipped garden
tractors are identical to the Cub Cadet flat bottom oil pans. They're made
of cast iron, too.)
Makes of garden tractors that originally came from the factory with a flanged or wide base Kohler engine block are: Ariens, Wheel Horse, some Ford, some Jacobsen, Gravely, New Holland, Sears Suburban, Engineering Products Co. (Economy models) and Allis Chalmers. No Cub Cadet originally came with a wide base Kohler engine block.
If you have a flanged or wide base single cylinder Kohler engine block, they're made for the wide or large oil pan. These can be easily converted for use with a Cub Cadet oil pan. What needs to be done is this:
-
Cut the flanges off the block
with a saw-saw or reciprocating saw. Then grind the remaining metal even
with the rest of the block.
- If there's oil fill openings (notches) on each side of the block, the angled part will need to be ground flat, and a couple of 1/2" x 1/2" x 1-3/8" long pieces if steel welded into them. Then after the welding process, use a large file or lightly grind the steel so it's even with the rest of the bottom of the engine block.
To weld steel to cast iron...
- First of all, being cast iron is porous (like a sponge), the area that's to be welded must first be heated with an acetylene torch to burn the oil out of the iron. Be careful not to get the metal too hot though. Overheating could shrink it and crack it. Heat it just enough so the oil evaporates and the iron appears dry.
- Grind the edge of the cast iron and steel pieces creating a "V" shape area so the weld will lay into this and not be "lumped up." (Welding bonds metals together better when it lays into a "V" shape area.)
- Use a wire-feed MIG welder with mild steel wire or a stick welder with a nickel rod and weld the steel to the cast iron like you would with ordinary steel. Allow the weld to air cool. Don't dip it into water or pour water over the weld. Doing this may separate the weld from the iron.
- Use a thread cutting tap to make 3/8-16 NC threads in the holes that's in the block. If there are no holes in the block, use the oil pan as a template to locate and drill the holes.
- Install an oil pan that's made for a Cub Cadet. (See below Ê)
To identify a Cub Cadet oil pan, first of all, they're exactly 1-1/16" tall.
The pan to tractor frame holes measures exactly 4-15/16" x 7-5/8". From the
base of the Cub Cadet pan to the centerline of the crankshaft for the 10-16hp
Kohler engines, the measurement (height) is exactly 4.750" (4-3/4"). This
includes compressed the oil pan gasket. And with a wide base oil pan, it
measures 6.125" (6-1/8"). These measurements are with the compressed (.030"
thickness) oil pan gasket installed.
Cub Cadet oil pans have either a flat bottom or deep sump. The flat bottom pans are originally made for the 10hp engine, but will work with no problem on the 12, 14 and 16hp engines, but half of the oil dipper on the connecting rod must be cut off. The deep sump ones are good for stroker engines. The flat bottom pan holds 1 quart of oil, and the deep sump one holds 1-1/2 quarts.
The length of the dipper on the connecting rod when shortened must be no shorter than 1-5/8" in length, when measured from the bottom of the rod cap to the end of the dipper. And a short dipper will help to increase the engine power. If a 10hp Kohler engine has a small, flat bottom Cub Cadet oil pan, the connecting rod has short dipper. But if it has a large, wide base pan, the rod has a long dipper. The 12, 14 and 16hp engines all come with a deep sump oil pan, as well as a large, wide base oil pan. Therefore, their connecting rods have a long dipper.
If it's an oil pan that's designed for a Cub Cadet garden tractor, then the shallow and deep oil pans are the same (except for the oil capacity) and will fit virtually all models of Cub Cadets. A longer dipper on the connecting rod is not really necessary, but it will provide better lubrication if the oil level were to get low. And the same dipstick will work, because the oil level will be the same.
If you have an oil pan with the drain plug in the wrong location, you can install another drain plug by looking at the oil pan and find where the metal is thicker than the rest. These places are specially made to drill and tap oil drain plug threads.
Oil Refill Quantities for Kohler Engines
| K90/K91 | K141, K160/K161, K181/M8 | K241A, K301A, K321A, K341A | K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16, K361 | KT17, KT19, KT21, M18, M20 | MV16, MV18, MV20 |
| 3/4 Quart | 1-1/4 Quarts | 1 Quart (shallow pan) 1-1/2 Quarts (deep sump pan) |
2 Quarts (wide oil pan) | 3 Quarts w/filter | 2 Quarts w/filter |
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Machine Shop Work - Convert wide base block to narrow base
block, for use in a Cub Cadet.
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 Oil pan gasket for K141
(6¼hp), K160 (6.6hp), K161 (7hp) and K181/M8 (8hp) Kohler K-series and
Magnum flathead engines. Included in overhaul gasket set below. Unlike some
10-16hp engines, the K141 (6¼hp), K160 (6.6hp), K161 (7hp) and K181/M8
(8hp) Kohler engines are wide base blocks. Kohler part # 41 041 03-S.
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Oil Pan Gaskets for Kohler K-series and Magnum 10hp-16hp flatheads
and 18hp OHV engines. Included in complete engine rebuild gasket sets below.
Please specify if you have a wide or narrow base block or oil pan.
Click here to determine if your
engine is a wide or narrow base block.
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 Oil Drain Plugs. Universal
applications. Each replaces Kohler part # X-708-1-S.
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 Narrow Base Flat Bottom
Cast Iron Oil Pan for 10hp-16hp flatheads and 18hp OHV K361 Kohler K-series
and Magnum flathead engines. This
is for the narrow base Kohler engine blocks without flanges. These are
clean and in excellent condition, with good bolt thread holes and no cracks.
These originally came off an early Kohler model K241 10hp K-series flathead
engine that was in a Cub Cadet, but will fit the 12, 14 and 16hp K-series
and Magnum flathead narrow base block engines with half of oil dipper on
connecting rod cut off. This is also an exact replacement for John Deere
models 110, 112 and early model 210 with the Kohler K241 engines. Model 112
serial number 100,001 – 250,000, 110 serial number 250,001 and up with
the Kohler 10hp K241 engine, and 210 up to serial number 95,261. These will
also fit Wheel Horse garden tractors. Clean and in excellent condition, including
good bolt threads. Includes drain plug. Holds 1 quart of oil. OEM Kohler
part # 235352 (discontinued). 
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 Narrow Base Flat Bottom
Aluminum Oil Pan for 10hp-16hp flatheads and 18hp OHV K361 Kohler K-series
and Magnum flathead engines. This
is for the narrow base Kohler engine blocks without flanges. Clean and
in excellent condition, with good bolt thread holes and no cracks. These
originally came off a Kohler model K241 10hp K-series flathead engine that
was in a Cub Cadet, but will fit the 12, 14 and 16hp K-series and Magnum
flathead narrow base block engines with half of oil dipper on connecting
rod cut off. This is also an exact replacement for John Deere models 110,
112 and early model 210 with the Kohler K241 engines. Model 112 serial number
100,001 – 250,000, 110 serial number 250,001 and up with the Kohler
10hp K241 engine, and 210 up to serial number 95,261. These will also fit
Wheel Horse garden tractors. Clean and in excellent condition, including
good bolt threads. Includes drain plug. Holds 1 quart of oil. OEM Kohler
part # 237588-S (discontinued).
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 Narrow Base Cast Iron Deep
Sump Oil Pan for 10hp-16hp flatheads and 18hp OHV K361 Kohler K-series and
Magnum flathead engines. This
is for the narrow base Kohler engine blocks without flanges. Clean and
in excellent condition, with good bolt thread holes and no cracks. Good for
stroker pulling engines. NOTE: For better lubrication, these oil pans
require a full length oil dipper on the connecting rod. Includes drain
plug. Holds 1-1/2 quarts of oil. OEM Kohler part # 236328 (discontinued).
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 Used narrow base deep sump
aluminum oil pan for 10hp-16hp flatheads and 18hp OHV K361 Kohler K-series
and Magnum flathead engines. This
is for the narrow base Kohler engine blocks without flanges. Clean and
in excellent condition, with good bolt thread holes and no cracks. Good for
general yard use or 4,000 rpm stock pulling engines. NOTE: For better
lubrication, these oil pans require a full length oil dipper on the connecting
rod. Includes drain plug. Holds 1-1/2 quarts of oil. OEM Kohler part
# 47 199 09-S (aluminum).
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 Used wide base cast iron
wide pan for 10hp-16hp flatheads and 18hp OHV K361 Kohler K-series and Magnum
flathead engines. This is for
the wide base Kohler engine blocks with flanges. These are clean and
in excellent condition, with good bolt thread holes and no cracks. These
come on various makes of tractors such as: Ariens, Wheel Horse, some Ford,
some Jacobsen, Gravely, New Holland, Sears Suburban, Engineering Products
Co. (Economy models) and Allis Chalmers. NOTE: For better lubrication,
these oil pans require a full length oil dipper on the connecting rod.
Includes drain plug. Holds 2 quarts of oil. OEM Kohler part # 235115-S.
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.030" Thickness
Narrow Base Block/Oil Pan Gasket. For cast aluminum or cast iron oil pans.
Kohler part # 235353-S.
.060" Thickness
Narrow Block/Oil Pan Gasket. For pressed steel sheet metal oil pans. Kohler
part # 47 041 07-S.
.030" Thickness
Wide Base Block/Oil Pan Gasket. Kohler part # 235057-S.
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