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Normal High Speed or Wide Open Throttle Engine Vibration in Competition Pulling Can Cause an Oil Pan to Loosen and Possibly Break!

To prevent the oil pan from becoming loose under a competition pulling situation, if necessary, first have the flywheel and crankshaft and piston/connecting rod assembly dynamically and precision spin-balanced, and DO NOT USE AN OIL PAN GASKET! Instead of a gasket, apply a thin bead of clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant between the block and pan, then torque the bolts (use grade 8 bolts with split lock washers) to 35 ft. lbs. The absence of the gasket will allow direct metal-to-metal contact, which keeps the bolts securely tight, with the silicone sealant filling in any imperfections between the two metals, eliminating oil leaks. By the way - I've always preferred to use clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant for three reasons: Due to metal warpage (which is unavoidable in most cases), gaskets don't always seal the irregularities and imperfections between mating surfaces, especially thin metal covers; being it's an adhesive, it bonds parts together, forming a leak-proof seal; and being it's clear, a thin bead of silicone makes for a clean and professional-looking repair job. When applied sparingly, it can't be easily seen or noticed between the parts.

On a Cub Cadet, the only thing that fastens the engine block to the tractor frame is the oil pan. When choosing which oil pan material to use for competitive pulling, an OEM Kohler cast aluminum oil pan can be safely used on a stock pulling tractor that will not run over 4,000 RPM. It's best to install stainless steel Heli-Coil thread inserts in the mounting holes of an aluminum oil pan to prevent stripping the soft threads. And a cast iron, billet aluminum or machined steel oil pan should be used on an engine that will operate at very high RPMs or at wide open throttle.

On a Kohler pulling engine that turns well above 4,000 RPM, at high RPM or at wide open throttle, the oil pan could loosen because the gasket acts like a cushion between the engine block and oil pan. At high RPM, normal engine vibration (caused by crankshaft side thrust, which is unavoidable in a single cylinder engine) can cause the engine block and oil pan to "shift" against each other a few thousands of an inch, allowing the gasket to flatten out overtime. When this happens, the bolts that fasten the pan to the block loosens. But the bolts don't actually rotate to loosen, they just lose their torque or tightness against the pan because of the flattened gasket. Which could crack or break the oil pan on one corner where the metal is thin and weakest. And applying liquid threadlocker on the oil pan retaining bolt threads will not help because if the gasket flattens out, although the bolts will not rotate to loosen, the oil pan will still loosen.

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If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle, tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)

Precision, Dynamic Flywheel and Crankshaft Spin-Balancing Service. To balance the rotating assembly, the crankshaft, piston/rings, pin, clips, connecting rod and bearing inserts (if applicable) are all required. The flywheel is balanced separately. Balance (cast or steel) flywheel for Kohler K241-K361 cast iron block engine. $60.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling. Balance flywheel for other make and model of engine. I will need to make a spindle with a tapered end/bolt hole to match the taper in the flywheel to spin the flywheel. $85.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling. Balance single cylinder cast OEM Kohler crankshaft. $150.00 for welded weight plate and labor, plus return shipping & handling. NOTE: Usually, a steel plate (of various thicknesses) is welded on the side of one of the counterweights of the crankshaft to balance it. But on various non-OEM cast Kohler crankshafts where there's no room for the plate, holes would need to be drilled crossways through the counterweights, and plugs of tungsten steel will need to be welded in the holes. To do this, the price will be around $400.00 each, plus return shipping & handling. IMPORTANT - When sending your flywheel and/or rotating assembly to A-1 Miller's for balancing, package everything securely so the items won't get damaged in shipping and please include a note in the box with your name, mailing address, phone number (in case I have any questions) and a description of what you want done. When shipping heavy parts, it's best to put a slightly smaller box inside a larger box, to double the strength and integrity of the package. Because the clumsy "gorillas" or incompetent and uncaring workers that work for certain delivery services mishandle the heavy packages and don't care. And when the work is completed, I'll either call or email you an invoice with the total including shipping & handling. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]

FYI - If oil leaks from an engine, transmission/transaxle or steering box, causing an oily mess on a concrete floor, mineral spirits (paint thinner) can be used to dry out the oil. Just pour some thinner on the oil, use a broom to thoroughly mix the thinner with the oil, and eventually the oil will dry with no signs of it ever being on the floor. Because of its low volatile flammability, paint thinner also works great as a cleaning solvent, which is used to clean oily or greasy mechanical parts.

By the way - it's a good idea to use split lock washers on ALL fasteners, to prevent other parts on the tractor from becoming loose later. And if you're concerned about driveshaft misalignment or clutch pin binding when not using an oil pan gasket, install a 1/32" (.030") thickness steel shim at each mounting hole between the oil pan and tractor frame. This will maintain proper driveshaft alignment with the engine so the clutch parts will last longer. So if somebody recommends using an oil pan gasket on a pulling engine that's going to turn well above 4,000 RPM, don't do it! Don't take chances! You could be sorry. Because sometimes listening to the wrong person can be very costly.

The Cub Cadet models 680, 800, 1000, 1200, 1250, 1450, 1650 as well other ISO-mount tractors are notorious for cracking the cast aluminum oil pan because the pan fastens to two rails, which are mounted on rubber and are independent from the main tractor frame. If the oil pan bolts aren't securely tightened, and due to normal engine vibration, sometimes the pan will form a hairline crack. I've also even seen them break off at the corner. I've also seen them crack and break off at the corner with an oil pan gasket. The same can happen with a cast iron oil pan. What happens is when a gasket is used, and when the pan bolts are tightened, the person who assembled the engine tightened the bolt on the corner on the PTO end of the block, then tightened the opposing bolt at the flywheel end of the block, and then tightened the other two remaining bolts. The first bolt that was tightened crushed the gasket, which caused a small, hair-line crack in the corner of the pan. Some people torque them with a gasket the wrong way. The correct sequence for torquing oil pan bolts is to lightly tighten one bolt on the flywheel end, then lightly tighten the bolt at the opposite corner on the PTO end, then lightly tighten another bolt, then lightly tighten the last bolt. Finally, torque each bolt to 35 ft. lbs. This procedure distributes equal pressure of each bolt without bending, warping or cracking the pan. Or better yet, just use clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant with no gasket. With no gasket, the pan will make direct contact with the block and they're be no bending, warping, cracking or breaking of the pan when the bolts are securely tightened. By the way - I've always preferred to use clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant for three reasons: Due to metal warpage (which is unavoidable in most cases), gaskets don't always seal the irregularities and imperfections between mating surfaces, especially thin metal covers; being it's an adhesive, it bonds parts together, forming a leak-proof seal; and being it's clear, a thin bead of silicone makes for a clean and professional-looking repair job. When applied sparingly, it can't be easily seen or noticed between the parts.

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Identification of Kohler Engine Blocks -

Garden tractors that originally came from the factory with a straight or narrow base Kohler engine block are: IH-built and MTD-built Cub Cadets, J.I. Case, John Deere (models 112, 110 and early model 210 with the Kohler K241 engine. Model 112 serial number 100,001 – 250,000, model 110 serial number 250,001 and up with the Kohler K241 engine, and 210 up to serial number 95,261), some Ford, some Jacobsen and Springfield. (The oil pan used on the John Deere and Springfield Kohler-equipped garden tractors are made of cast iron, identical to the early Cub Cadet/K241 flat bottom oil pan.)

And garden tractors that originally came from the factory with a flanged or wide base Kohler engine block are: Ariens, Wheel Horse, some Ford, some Jacobsen, Gravely, New Holland, Sears Suburban, Engineering Products Co. (Economy models) and Allis Chalmers. No Cub Cadet originally came with a wide base Kohler engine block.

A flanged or wide base single cylinder Kohler engine block is made for the wide or large [2 quart] rectangular oil pan. These blocks can be converted for use with a narrow Cub Cadet (or certain models of John Deere) oil pan, so the engine can fit inside the frame rails of a Cub Cadet tractor. Below is how to do the conversion.

An oxy-acetylene cutting torch can be used to cut off the flanges. When doing so, cut from the bottom of the block and position the flame at an angle (away from the block) so it won't get the block itself too hot. Fasten an angled plate on the block to guide the torch so it will perform a straight cut. After cutting off the flanges, to prevent possibly cracking the block, don't use water to cool the heated area! Allow the block to air-cool. For appearance, grind away any protruding metal or slag.

Or a portable plasma cutter (50+ amp models works best for thicker metal) can be used for quick and easy cutting off the flanges. Again, fasten an angled plate on the block to guide the cutting tip so it will perform a straight cut. The block shouldn't be too hot afterwards with the plasma cutter. If it is, to prevent cracking the block, don't use water to cool the heated area! Allow it to air-cool. For appearance, grind away any protruding metal or slag.

If a cutting torch or plasma cutter isn't available, then a vertical/horizontal bandsaw or a reciprocating saw (saw-saw; takes longer and require more effort) with a metal cutting fine-tooth blade can be used to cut the flanges off the block. Use caution doing it this way! The block must be held securely in the correct position to prevent binding of the blade and/or cutting through something else on the block. When finished cutting off the flanges, for appearance, grind away any protruding metal.

After cutting off the flanges, if there's oil fill/level check openings on each side of the block, the angled part of the opening will need to be ground flat, and a couple of 1/2" x 1/2" x 1-3/8" long steel stock pieces will need to be welded into the notches (see below Ê). After the welding process, for the oil pan to lay flat against the block, place a machinist straight edge against the bottom of the block and if necessary, use a large flat file or lightly grind the steel and/or weld so it's flush or even with the bottom of the block.

Use a (preferably new) 3/8-16 NC TAPER hand tap to cut new threads in the holes that's present in the block. (A taper tap removes less metal during the cutting process, making cutting new threads much easier and less chance of breaking the tap off in the hole. Plus, it's self-aligning with the hole. It won't cut the threads "to one side" or cocked.) After cutting the threads the entire depth of the holes, recut them with a PLUG hand tap so the threads on the bolts will go deeper. (A plug tap is also useful for cleaning threads.) If there are no holes, use a narrow oil pan as a template, and a 3/8" transfer punch to mark exactly where the holes need to be, then drill the holes and cut the threads.

Removing a Broken-Off Tap - A threading tap that has broken off in an engine block or metal casting can be very difficult to remove. About all I can tell you is to either take your block to a reputable machine shop to have the tap removed, or go here and try to do it yourself: https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=removing+broken+tap+from+hole. Actually, it's best to use a TAPER hand tap to cut new threads and clean out existing threads. If used correctly, a TAPER tap is less likely to break off. Click or tap here to learn how to cut new threads, the professional way.

Install an oil pan that's made for a narrow base engine block, such as a Cub Cadet or certain models of John Deere garden tractors. (See below Ê)

For pulling applications, apply a thin bead of clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant when fastening the pan to the block. Otherwise, for general lawn and garden use, use a gasket and the silicone to lessen the chance of any oil leaks. By the way - I've always preferred to use clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant for three reasons: Due to metal warpage (which is unavoidable in most cases), gaskets don't always seal the irregularities and imperfections between mating surfaces, especially thin metal covers; being it's an adhesive, it bonds parts together, forming a leak-proof seal; and being it's clear, a thin bead of silicone makes for a clean and professional-looking repair job. When applied sparingly, it can't be easily seen or noticed between the parts.

How to Weld Steel to Cast Iron...

1. First of all, being cast iron is porous, it soaks up oil like a sponge. (This is why all cast iron Cub Cadet transaxles are painted on the inside, to keep oil from seeping through the case to the outside.) Anyway, the area that's to be welded first must be heated with an acetylene torch to burn the oil out of the iron. Be careful not to get the iron too hot! Overheating could cause it to crack. Heat it just enough so all the oil evaporates and the iron appears dry.
2. Grind the edges of the cast iron and steel pieces creating a "V" shape area so the weld will lay into this and not be "lumped up." This will help bond the two pieces together better.
3. Use a wire-feed MIG welder with mild steel welding wire or a stick welder with a nickel rod, and weld the steel to the cast iron like you would with ordinary steel to steel. Allow the welded area to air-cool. Don't apply water to the weld! Doing this may separate the weld from the iron.

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If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle, tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)

Convert K241-K361 Kohler wide base block to narrow base, for use in a garden tractor requiring a narrow base engine block. (Cub Cadet, Ford, John Deere, Wheel Horse, etc.) See pictures below Ê An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this service. Cut off flanges and grind protruding metal even with block. $40.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling. Cut off flanges, grind protruding metal even with block and cut new threads in oil pan mounting holes. $60.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling. Cut off flanges, grind protruding metal even with block, weld-in steel stock to fill in oil-fill holes, grind protruding weld even with block and cut threads in oil pan mounting holes. $100.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling.

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To identify a Cub Cadet oil pan, first of all, they're exactly 1-1/16" tall. The pan to tractor frame holes measures exactly 4-15/16" x 7-5/8". From the base of the Cub Cadet pan to the centerline of the crankshaft for the K241-K361 Kohler engines, the measurement (height) is exactly 4.750" (4-3/4"). And with a wide base oil pan, it measures 6.125" (6-1/8"). These measurements are with the compressed (.030" thickness) oil pan gasket installed.

Cub Cadet oil pans have either a flat bottom or deep sump. The flat bottom pans are originally made for the K241 engine, but will work with no problem on the K301, K321, K341 and K361 engines, but half of the oil dipper on the connecting rod must be cut off. The deep sump ones are suitable for stroker engines. The flat bottom pan holds 1 quart of oil, and the deep sump one holds 1-1/2 quarts. If a deep sump oil pan is used on an engine that originally came with a flat bottom oil pan, the oil dipper on the connecting rod will be too short and won't be able to splash as much oil to thoroughly lubricate the parts.

The length of the dipper on the connecting rod when shortened must be no shorter than 1-5/8" in length, when measured from the bottom of the rod cap to the end of the dipper. And a short dipper will help to increase the engine power. If a K241 Kohler engine has a small, flat bottom Cub Cadet oil pan, the connecting rod has short dipper. But if it has a large, wide base pan, the rod has a long dipper. The K301-K361 engines all come with a deep sump oil pan, as well as a large, wide base oil pan. Therefore, their connecting rods have a long dipper.

If it's an oil pan that's designed for a Cub Cadet garden tractor, then the shallow and deep oil pans are the same (except for the oil capacity) and will fit virtually all models of Cub Cadets. A longer dipper on the connecting rod is not really necessary, but it will provide better lubrication if the oil level were to get low. And the oil level full mark on the oil dipstick will register the same regardless of the type of oil pan is used.

If an oil pan has the drain plug in the wrong location, another drain plug can be installed by finding an area on the pan where the metal is thicker than the surrounding area. These places are specially made by the factory to drill and cut threads for the oil drain plug.

Oil Refill Capacities for Kohler Engines

K90/K91	K141, K160/K161, K181/M8	K241A, K301A, K321A, K341A	K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16, K361	KT17, KT17II, KT19, KT19II, M18, M20	MV16, MV18, MV20	K482, K532, K582, K660/K662
1/2 Quart	1 Quart	1 Quart (narrow, shallow/flat oil pan) 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 Quarts (narrow, deep sump oil pan)	2 Quarts (wide/rectangular oil pan)	1-1/2 Quarts w/filter Add 1/4 - 1/2 quart when replacing filter (depending on size of filter).	1-3/4 Quarts w/filter Add 1/4 - 1/2 quart when replacing filter (depending on size of filter).	3 Quarts Add 1/2 quart for K482, K4532, K582 when replacing filter. Add 1 quart for K660/K662 when replacing filter.

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The best way I found to clean old gasket material from the oil pan and other flat surface engine parts is with a large flat coarse file with the pan (or part) gently clamped in a large bench vise. Be careful not to file off the metal!

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If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle, tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
Magnetic Oil Drain Plugs with Tapered Threads and Square Head. A-1 Miller oil drain plugs have a super strong rare earth/neodymium magnet. Five times stronger than competitor's ceramic (ferrite) magnet and resists demagnetization. Plugs listed below can be used on various other makes and models of transmissions, transaxles, gearboxes and small engines. Tapered threads requires no sealing gasket or sealant, and threads will not strip out when tightened. To avoid cracking oil pan, do not over-tighten! When in doubt, to insure proper sealing and to prevent a possible oil leak, use Teflon®/plumber's thread seal tape on the threads. Universal application. Magnet attracts and removes ferrous metallic wear fragments from the motor oil or transmission/gearbox to reduce engine or gear/bearing wear. Sometimes some of the ferrous wear fragments settle to the bottom of the oil pan and do not drain out with the oil when performing an oil change, even when the oil is hot. The engine will last much longer due to cleaner oil. Magnetic drain plugs are suitable for engines with splash oil lubrication (no oil pump/filter). 1/4" NPT (Tapered Threads) Magnetic Oil Drain Plug. Fits various Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh and Kohler engines. A-1 Miller part. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # X-75-2. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling. 3/8" NPT (Tapered Threads) Magnetic Oil Drain Plug. Fits various Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh and Kohler engines. A-1 Miller part. High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # X-305-4-S. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling. 3/8" NPT (Tapered Threads) Magnetic Oil Drain Plug. OEM Kohler part # X-305-4-S. $18.35 each, plus shipping & handling. 1/2" NPT (Tapered Threads) Magnetic Oil Drain Plug. Fits side of oil pan on Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8 engines, and oil drain on Cub Cadet garden tractor transaxles and various automotive manual shift transmissions. A-1 Miller part. Not available from Kohler. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling. 3/4" NPT (Tapered Threads) Magnetic Oil Drain Plug. Fits various Briggs & Stratton and Kohler engines. A-1 Miller part. Not available from Kohler. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling. 3/4-10 UNC (Straight Threads) Magnetic Oil Drain Plug. Use to replace OEM Kohler 3/8" NPT oil drain plug with stripped threads in [aluminum] oil pan. Comes with fiber sealing gasket. NOTE: Threads in oil pan must be enlarged with a 3/4-10 UNC hand tap. A-1 Miller part. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling. 5/8" i.d. Fiber Sealing Gasket for OEM Kohler 3/8" NPT Oil Drain Plug with Hex Head. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # 241063. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Super Strong Rare Earth/Neodymium Magnets for Engines, Transmissions, Transaxles and Gearboxes. Attracts and removes ferrous metallic wear fragments from the lubricating oil inside an engine that does not have an oil pump with an oil filter, or inside a transmission, transaxle or gearbox to lessen wear and noise to gears and bearings. Sometimes some of the ferrous wear fragments settle to the bottom of the oil pan or engine block and do not drain out with the oil when performing an oil change, even when the oil is hot. Engine or gears/bearings will last longer due to cleaner oil. Install magnet in bottom of oil pan away from the oil dipper and any moving parts, or in bottom of a transmission, transaxle or gearbox away from rotating gears and any moving parts. Use Krazy Glue, Super Glue, Gorilla Glue, or any industrial strength adhesive to secure magnet in place. These rare earth/neodymium magnets are EXTREMELY strong! Use caution when handling! Can be difficult to remove from a steel or cast iron surface, are very brittle and can break easily if mishandled. An innovative and ingenious concept by Brian Miller because nobody else advertise this trick. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. Rectangular Magnet. Dimensions: 20mm x 10mm x 2mm. Use in confined spaces, such as the deep sump oil pan for Cub Cadet garden tractor engines. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Round Magnet. Dimensions: 25mm x 2mm. Use in wide, open spaces or flat bottom oil pans. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Expansion Cup Plug for blocking off oil dipstick tube hole on starter side of block. Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361. Alternative to using metal plate to the right. 1-1/16" diameter. Install with clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant. Not available in aftermarket. L OEM Kohler part # 25 139 47-S. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.	Oil Fill Hole Block-Off Plate for oil dipstick tube on starter side of block. Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361. Alternate part to the left ï. Made of 1/8" thick steel. Gasket and screws not included. Install with RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant. Discontinued from Kohler. Kohler part # 237262. A-1 Miller part. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Oil pan gasket for Kohler engine models K90/K91 (OEM Kohler part # 220157-S) is no longer available separately, except in complete engine rebuild gasket set.
Oil pan gasket for Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K141, K160, K161 and K181/M8. Unlike some K241-K361 engines, the K141, K160/K161 and K181/M8 Kohler engines are wide base blocks. Included in complete engine rebuild gasket set. High quality aftermarket. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Kohler part # 41 041 03-S. $5.45 each, plus shipping & handling.
.030" Thickness Gasket for Narrow Base Block/Oil Pan Kohler K-series engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 with a narrow cast aluminum or cast iron oil pan, or if the block have been converted for use with a narrow base oil pan. Included in complete engine rebuild gasket set below. Please specify if you have a wide or narrow base block or oil pan. Click or tap here to determine if your engine is a wide or narrow base block. High quality aftermarket. $3.50 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Kohler part # 235353-S. $6.25 each, plus shipping & handling.
.060" Thickness Gasket for Narrow Block/Oil Pan Kohler K-series engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 with a narrow cast aluminum or cast iron oil pan, or if the block have been converted for use with a narrow base oil pan. To be used with a pressed steel sheet metal oil pan. Not included in complete engine rebuild gasket set below. Please specify if you have a wide or narrow base block or oil pan. Click or tap here to determine if your engine is a wide or narrow base block. High quality aftermarket. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Kohler part # 47 041 07-S. $13.55 each, plus shipping & handling.
.030" Thickness Wide Base Block/Oil Pan Gasket for Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 with a wide base block. Included in complete engine rebuild gasket set below. Please specify if you have a wide or narrow base block or oil pan. Click or tap here to determine if your engine is a wide or narrow base block. High quality aftermarket. $2.60 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Kohler part # 235057-S. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Oil Pan Mounting Bolts for Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361. Grade 8 hex head bolts, 3/8-24 UNC (coarse thread) threads x 1-1/2" length. Torque at 35 ft. lb. High quality aftermarket with split lock washers. $5.00 per four, plus shipping & handling. OEM Kohler part # X-159-4-S. $2.55 each, plus shipping & handling.
Repair Service: Repair stripped aluminum oil pan mounting bolt hole threads. No need to purchase another oil pan! $5.00 each for parts and labor, plus return shipping & handling.
Cast Aluminum, Narrow Base, Flat Bottom Oil Pan for Kohler K-series engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 with a narrow base block, or if the flanges have been cut off, and the block is converted for use with a narrow base oil pan. Clean and in excellent condition, with good bolt thread holes and no cracks. This is also an exact replacement for John Deere models 110, 112 and early model 210 with the Kohler K241 engines. Model 112 serial number 100,001 – 250,000, 110 serial number 250,001 and up with the Kohler K241 engine, and 210 up to serial number 95,261. These will also fit Wheel Horse garden tractors. Clean and in excellent condition, including good bolt threads. Includes drain plug. Holds 1 quart of oil. Weighs 1.3 lb. Discontinued from Kohler. OEM Kohler part # 237588-S. Used and in excellent condition. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
Cast Iron, Narrow Base, Flat Bottom Oil Pan for Kohler K-series engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 with a narrow base block, or if the flanges have been cut off, and the block is converted for use with a narrow base oil pan. These are clean and in excellent condition, with good bolt thread holes and no cracks. This is also an exact replacement for John Deere models 110, 112 and early model 210 with the Kohler K241 engines. Model 112 serial number 100,001 – 250,000, 110 serial number 250,001 and up with the Kohler K241 engine, and 210 up to serial number 95,261. These will also fit Wheel Horse garden tractors. Clean and in excellent condition, including good bolt threads. Includes drain plug. Holds 1 quart of oil. Weighs 4.1 lb. Discontinued from Kohler. OEM Kohler part # 235352. Used and in excellent condition. $60.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
Cast Aluminum, Narrow Base, Deep Sump Oil Pans for Kohler K-series engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 with a narrow base block, or if the flanges have been cut off, and the block is converted for use with a narrow base oil pan. Clean and in excellent condition, with good bolt thread holes and no cracks. Suitable for general lawn and garden use or 4,000 RPM stock pulling engines. NOTE: For better lubrication, these oil pans require a full length oil dipper on the connecting rod. Includes drain plug. Holds 1-1/2 quarts of oil. Weighs 1.85 lb. Discontinued from Kohler. OEM Kohler part # 47 199 09-S. Used and in excellent condition. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
Cast Iron, Narrow Base, Deep Sump Oil Pan for Kohler K-series engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 with a narrow base block, or if the flanges have been cut off, and the block is converted for use with a narrow base oil pan. Clean and in excellent condition, with good bolt thread holes and no cracks. Suitable for stroker pulling engines. NOTE: For better lubrication, these oil pans require a full length oil dipper on the connecting rod. Includes drain plug. Holds 1-1/2 quarts of oil. Weighs 5.4 lb. Discontinued from Kohler. OEM Kohler part # 236328. Used and in excellent condition. $75.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
Cast Iron,Wide Base, Oil Pan for Kohler K-series engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 with a wide base/flanged block. These are clean and in excellent condition, with good bolt thread holes and no cracks. These come on various makes of tractors such as: Ariens, Wheel Horse, some Ford, some Jacobsen, Gravely, New Holland, Sears Suburban, Engineering Products Co. (Economy models) and Allis Chalmers. NOTE: For better lubrication, these oil pans require a full length oil dipper on the connecting rod. Includes drain plug. Holds 2 quarts of oil. Used and in excellent condition. With side drain; most common. OEM Kohler part # 235115-S. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.) Used and in excellent condition. With bottom drain. OEM Kohler part # 235147-S. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.) New. With side drain; most common. OEM Kohler part # 235115-S. $243.00 each, plus shipping & handling. New. With bottom drain. OEM Kohler part # 235147-S. $263.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

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A-1 Miller's Computerized Stuska Water Brake Engine Dynamometer (Dyno) Service with DPM Data Logger Software to Test Horsepower and Torque! | Top of page

For performance testing of 10-16hp single cylinder Kohler stock or competition pulling engines at speeds up to 12,000 RPM. The only dyno service for testing Kohler pulling engines in central Missouri. The only dyno service for testing Kohler pulling engines in central Missouri. Two uncontaminated fuel tanks with an electric fuel pump - one for gas and another for methanol. Fully operational and 100% accurate, customers can rent dyno time, fine tune and make adjustments or changes to their engines to gain maximum horsepower and torque, and print-out the results so their tractor(s) will be truly competitive on the track. With an engine dyno, the puller can adjust their engine to get maximum horsepower and torque, and gear their tractor appropriately to have an advantage over the competition. NOTE: A fresh-built engine may not produce full power until it's broke-in. This is when the valves wear-in with the seats to completely seal in the compression. The rings will likely hold the compression, but the valves may leak slightly until they wear into the seats. This is normal for all engines and may take several hours or pulls to happen, then the valves will be able to hold full compression. Lots of pullers tell A-1 Miller's after I've built their engines that it seems to pull stronger every time they pull it.

Engine Dyno Rental Fee: $50.00 per hour run time from the moment the engine is started. No setup fee for Cub Cadet engines with a 3- or 6-pin/stud clutch driver. An adapter may need to be needed or fabricated for other makes and models of engines. Only engines with the narrow base oil pan can be tested. Engines with the wide base (tall) oil pan cannot be tested at this time. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]

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Coming Soon - Detailed Illustrated Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back and Self-Propelled Garden Tractor Pulling Sled. FYI - The professionally-built self-propelled pulling sled is the only one I've ever built (click the picture to the right to see a larger image of this sled), and I got it right the first time, with very few changes or modifications that had to be made to it. I guess I'm just one of those kind of guys that knows what he's doing. Pullers really like pulling our sled, too. They say it's the best sled they've ever pulled. (Not bragging, just stating a fact.) By the way - Track Master sled is engineered so well (by Brian Miller), that other sled builders/owners have copied our well thought-out and proven design. Anyway, I have lots of work to do in my shop and I work on the sled plans in my spare time. As soon as my plans with an inventory list of parts to use are perfected, I'll post the update in my websites with the prices of the plans. Remember - Perfection takes time. If it's worth having, it's worth waiting for. Also, I plan to acquire a bigger shop and may build high quality garden tractor pulling sleds in the future to offer for sale. Please call A-1 Miller's at 573-256-0313 (shop) or 573-881-7229 (cell; text or voice message), or email A-1 Miller's at pullingtractor@aol.com if interested. - Brian Miller

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To place an order and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance and support, please contact:

A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle, tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)

To place an order, please call the number below Ê or send an email with your name, complete and correct postal address and phone number and so I can figure the total with shipping cost and USPS Tracking. For payment options for parts ordered or services performed, or to make a donation to my websites, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge), Western Union Money Transfer, MoneyGram Money Transfers or Popmoney. (If a part for a specific purpose is special ordered, your debit/credit card may be charged for the full amount or as a deposit right after your order is placed; please do not send your debit/credit card information in email!) Or you can pay A-1 Miller's through PayPal. (My PayPal account name is my email address. And be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment is for.) If sending a money order, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone number and a description of what the payment is for. My mailing address and phone number are below Ê . I'll make a note of your order, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send the parts to you as soon as I have everything in stock after I receive your payment.

IMPORTANT - When sending your part(s) to A-1 Miller's for rebuilding or repair, package everything securely so the item(s) won't get damaged in shipping and please include a note in the box with your name, mailing address, phone number (in case I have any questions) and a description of what you want done. When shipping heavy parts, it's best to put a slightly smaller box inside a larger box, to double the strength and integrity of the package. Because the clumsy "gorillas" or incompetent and uncaring workers that work for certain delivery services mishandle the heavy packages and don't care. And when the work is completed, I'll either call or email you an invoice with the total including shipping & handling.

To figure the shipping cost, I weigh the package with the parts, then I go online to the USPS Postage Rate Calculator website. I type in the weight, my zip code and your zip code, then it shows A-1 Miller's the prices for various ways to ship the package. I always choose US Postal Service because I believe that's the most fastest, economical and reliable method.

Shipping: (United States and it's territories)
To save you shipping charges, item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 13 oz. is sent by First Class Mail for a 2-6 day delivery. Most packaged item(s) weighing over 13 oz. is sent by US Priority Mail for a 2-3 day delivery. To save you even more on shipping heavy items, I always try to use the US Postal Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelope and boxes (if the item(s) can fit inside the envelope or boxes). Some heavy items weighing no more than 70 lbs. is sent by US Mail Parcel Post. Item(s) weighing over 70 lbs. is sent by FedEx Ground. Again, if you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally drop off and/or pick up your engine, transaxle, tractor, etc.

We Ship to Canada and Worldwide -
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S. territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground or equivalent services. We try to keep our shipping cost to customers within reason. Therefore, we don't ship our products in a fancy-looking package with our company name and/or logo on it because most customers will just toss it in the trash after they remove the contents.

^{(When placing an order through PayPal, please provide a list of which parts you need.)}

To make a payment to A-1 Miller's through PayPal, go to PayPal's secure website ( https://www.paypal.com/ ) and click on Send and Request -> Pay for goods or services. Type in my email address, or copy and paste this: pullingtractor@aol.com, the amount and follow the directions. Be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment is for. After you've finished, PayPal will send A-1 Miller's an email notifying me that you have made a payment to A-1 Miller's for the product(s) or services and amount entered. Then I go to their website and direct PayPal to deposit the money in my bank account. And I will send the parts to you as soon as I receive your payment. But I may have to order some of the parts if they're not in stock, which should take a few days. In that case, I will send you the parts as soon as they come in. PayPal protects your financial privacy and security. With PayPal, privacy is built in. It's a way for you to pay without exposing their financial information.

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