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Copyright © 1996-Present. This website created, designed and maintained by Brian Miller.
Important Information About
the Cub Cadet Oil Pan
Where Science and Common Sense Come Together for Better Engine Performance
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Normal High Speed Engine Vibration Can Cause
an Oil Pan to Loosen and Possibly Break!
On a Cub Cadet, the only thing that fastens the engine block to the tractor frame is the oil pan. When choosing which oil pan material to use for competitive pulling, an OEM Kohler cast aluminum oil pan can be safely used on a stock pulling tractor that will not run over 4,000 RPM. It's best to install stainless steel Heli-Coil thread inserts in the mounting holes of an aluminum oil pan to prevent stripping the soft threads. And a cast iron, billet aluminum or machined steel oil pan should be used on an engine that will operate at very high RPMs or at wide open throttle.
On a Kohler pulling engine that turns well above 4,000 RPM, at high RPM or at wide open throttle, the oil pan could loosen because the gasket acts like a cushion between the engine block and oil pan. At high RPM, normal engine vibration (caused by crankshaft side thrust, which is unavoidable in a single cylinder engine) can cause the engine block and oil pan to "shift" against each other a few thousands of an inch, allowing the gasket to flatten out overtime. When this happens, the bolts that fasten the pan to the block loosens. But the bolts don't actually rotate to loosen, they just lose their torque or tightness against the pan because of the flattened gasket. Which could crack or break the oil pan and/or engine block. And applying liquid threadlocker on the oil pan retaining bolt threads won't help because if the gasket flattens out, although the bolts will not rotate to loosen, the oil pan will still loosen.
To prevent the oil pan from becoming loose under pulling conditions, first have the flywheel, crankshaft and piston/connecting rod assembly is dynamically and precision spin-balanced and DON'T USE AN OIL PAN GASKET. Instead, apply a thin bead of Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant between the block and pan, then torque the bolts (use hardened grade 8 bolts with split lock washers) to 35 ft. lbs. Using silicone sealant will allow positive metal-to-metal contact, which keeps the bolts securely tight, plus it fills in any imperfections between the two metals, eliminating oil leaks. By the way - I've always preferred to use Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant for three reasons: Due to metal warpage (which is unavoidable in most cases), gaskets don't always seal the irregularities and imperfections between mating surfaces, especially thin metal covers; being it's an adhesive, it bonds parts together, forming a leak-proof seal; and being it's clear, a thin bead of silicone makes for a clean and professional-looking repair job. When applied sparingly, it can't be easily seen or noticed between the parts.
Advertisement:
If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed
below Ê, or virtually any product or
service mentioned in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136
USA |  Phone: 1-573-256-0313
(shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays,
9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When
speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's
shop is open to the public, including weekends. Please call before coming
so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
 E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. |
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest.
Click here for more parts and
services. |
Please click here to place
an order. |
 Precision,
Dynamic Flywheel and Crankshaft Spin-Balancing Service. To balance
the rotating assembly, the crankshaft, piston/rings, pin, clips, connecting
rod and bearing inserts (if applicable) are all required. The flywheel is
balanced separately.
IMPORTANT - When sending your flywheel and/or rotating assembly to me for balancing, package everything securely so the items won't get damaged in shipping and please include a note in the box with your name, mailing address, phone number (in case I have any questions) and a description of what you want done. When shipping heavy parts, it's best to put a slightly smaller box inside a larger box, to double the strength and integrity of the package. Because the clumsy "gorillas" or incompetent and uncaring workers that work for certain delivery services mishandle the heavy packages and don't care. And when the work is completed, I'll either call or email you an invoice with the total including shipping & handling. |
FYI - If oil leaks from an engine, transmission/transaxle or steering box, causing an oily mess on a concrete floor, mineral spirits (paint thinner) can be used to dry out the oil. Just pour some thinner on the oil, use a broom to thoroughly mix the thinner with the oil, and eventually the oil will dry with no signs of it ever being on the floor. Because of its low volatile flammability, paint thinner also works great as a cleaning solvent, which is used to clean oily or greasy mechanical parts.
By the way - it's a good idea to use split lock washers on ALL fasteners, to prevent other parts on the tractor from becoming loose later. And if you're concerned about driveshaft misalignment or clutch pin binding when not using an oil pan gasket, install a 1/32" (.030") thickness steel shim at each mounting hole between the oil pan and tractor frame. This will maintain proper driveshaft alignment with the engine so the clutch parts will last longer. So if somebody recommends using an oil pan gasket on a pulling engine that's going to turn well above 4,000 RPM, don't do it! Don't take chances! You could be sorry. Because sometimes listening to the wrong person can be very costly.
The Cub Cadet models 680, 800, 1000, 1200, 1250, 1450, 1650 as well other ISO-mount tractors are notorious for cracking the cast aluminum oil pan because the pan fastens to two rails, which are mounted on rubber and are independent from the main tractor frame. If the oil pan bolts aren't securely tightened, and due to normal engine vibration, sometimes the pan will form a hairline crack. I've also even seen them break off at the corner. I've also seen them crack and break off at the corner with an oil pan gasket. The same can happen with a cast iron oil pan. What happens is when a gasket is used, and when the pan bolts are tightened, the person who assembled the engine tightened the bolt on the corner on the PTO end of the block, then tightened the opposing bolt at the flywheel end of the block, and then tightened the other two remaining bolts. The first bolt that was tightened crushed the gasket, which caused a small, hair-line crack in the corner of the pan. Some people torque them with a gasket the wrong way. The correct sequence for torquing oil pan bolts is to lightly tighten one bolt on the flywheel end, then lightly tighten the bolt at the opposite corner on the PTO end, then lightly tighten another bolt, then lightly tighten the last bolt. Finally, torque each bolt to 35 ft. lbs. This procedure distributes equal pressure of each bolt without bending, warping or cracking the pan. Or better yet, just use Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant with no gasket. With no gasket, the pan will make direct contact with the block and they're be no bending, warping, cracking or breaking of the pan when the bolts are securely tightened. By the way - I've always preferred to use Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant for three reasons: Due to metal warpage (which is unavoidable in most cases), gaskets don't always seal the irregularities and imperfections between mating surfaces, especially thin metal covers; being it's an adhesive, it bonds parts together, forming a leak-proof seal; and being it's clear, a thin bead of silicone makes for a clean and professional-looking repair job. When applied sparingly, it can't be easily seen or noticed between the parts.
Identification of Kohler Engine Blocks -
Garden tractors that originally
came from the factory with a straight or narrow base Kohler engine block
are: IH-built and MTD-built Cub Cadets, J.I. Case, John Deere (models 112,
110 and early model 210 with the Kohler K241 engine. Model 112 serial number
100,001 – 250,000, model 110 serial number 250,001 and up with the Kohler
K241 engine, and 210 up to serial number 95,261), some Ford, some Jacobsen
and Springfield. (The oil pan used on the John Deere and Springfield
Kohler-equipped garden tractors are made of cast iron, identical to the early
Cub Cadet/K241 flat bottom oil pan.)
And garden tractors that originally came from the factory with a flanged or wide base Kohler engine block are: Ariens, Wheel Horse, some Ford, some Jacobsen, Gravely, New Holland, Sears Suburban, Engineering Products Co. (Economy models) and Allis Chalmers. No Cub Cadet originally came with a wide base Kohler engine block.
A flanged or wide base single cylinder Kohler engine block is made for the wide or large [2 quart] rectangular oil pan. These blocks can be converted for use with a narrow Cub Cadet (or certain models of John Deere) oil pan, so the engine can fit inside the frame rails of a Cub Cadet tractor. Below is how to do the conversion.
An oxy-acetylene cutting torch can be used to cut off the flanges. When doing so, cut from the bottom of the block and position the flame at an angle (away from the block) so it won't get the block itself too hot. Fasten an angled plate on the block to guide the torch so it will perform a straight cut. After cutting off the flanges, to prevent possibly cracking the block, don't use water to cool the heated area! Allow the block to air-cool. For appearance, grind away any protruding metal or slag.
Or a portable plasma cutter (50+ amp models works best for thicker metal) can be used for quick and easy cutting off the flanges. Again, fasten an angled plate on the block to guide the cutting tip so it will perform a straight cut. The block shouldn't be too hot afterwards with the plasma cutter. If it is, to prevent cracking the block, don't use water to cool the heated area! Allow it to air-cool. For appearance, grind away any protruding metal or slag.
If a cutting torch or plasma cutter isn't available, then a vertical/horizontal bandsaw or a reciprocating saw (saw-saw; takes longer and require more effort) with a metal cutting fine-tooth blade can be used to cut the flanges off the block. Use caution doing it this way! The block must be held securely in the correct position to prevent binding of the blade and/or cutting through something else on the block. When finished cutting off the flanges, for appearance, grind away any protruding metal.
After cutting off the flanges, if there's oil fill/level check openings on each side of the block, the angled part of the opening will need to be ground flat, and a couple of 1/2" x 1/2" x 1-3/8" long steel stock pieces will need to be welded into the notches (see below Ê). After the welding process, for the oil pan to lay flat against the block, place a machinist straight edge against the bottom of the block and if necessary, use a large flat file or lightly grind the steel and/or weld so it's flush or even with the bottom of the block.
Use a
(preferably new) 3/8-16 NC
TAPER hand tap to cut new threads in the holes that's present
in the block. (A taper tap removes less metal during the cutting process,
making cutting new threads much easier and less chance of breaking the tap
off in the hole. Plus, it's self-aligning with the hole. It won't cut the
threads "to one side" or cocked.) After cutting the threads the entire depth
of the holes, recut them with a
PLUG hand tap so the threads on the bolts will go deeper.
(A plug tap is also useful for cleaning threads.) If there are
no holes, use a narrow oil pan as a template, and a 3/8"
transfer punch to mark exactly where the holes need to
be, then drill the holes and cut the threads.
Removing a Broken-Off
Tap - A threading tap that has broken off in an engine block or metal
casting can be very difficult to remove. About all I can tell you is to either
take your block to a reputable machine shop to have the tap removed, or go
here and try to do it yourself:
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=removing+broken+tap+from+hole.
Actually, it's best to use a TAPER hand tap to cut new threads and clean
out existing threads. If used correctly, a TAPER tap is less likely to break
off.
Click here to learn how to cut new threads, the professional
way.
Install an oil pan that's made for a narrow base engine block, such as a Cub Cadet or certain models of John Deere garden tractors. (See below Ê)
For pulling applications, apply a thin bead of Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant when fastening the pan to the block. Otherwise, for general lawn and garden use, use a gasket and the silicone to lessen the chance of any oil leaks. By the way - I've always preferred to use Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant for three reasons: Due to metal warpage (which is unavoidable in most cases), gaskets don't always seal the irregularities and imperfections between mating surfaces, especially thin metal covers; being it's an adhesive, it bonds parts together, forming a leak-proof seal; and being it's clear, a thin bead of silicone makes for a clean and professional-looking repair job. When applied sparingly, it can't be easily seen or noticed between the parts.
How to Weld Steel to Cast Iron...
- First of all, being cast iron is porous, it soaks up oil like a sponge. (This is why all cast iron Cub Cadet transaxles are painted on the inside, to keep oil from seeping through the case to the outside.) Anyway, the area that's to be welded first must be heated with an acetylene torch to burn the oil out of the iron. Be careful not to get the iron too hot! Overheating could cause it to crack. Heat it just enough so all the oil evaporates and the iron appears dry.
- Grind the edges of the cast iron and steel pieces creating a "V" shape area so the weld will lay into this and not be "lumped up." This will help bond the two pieces together better.
- Use a wire-feed MIG welder with mild steel welding wire or a stick welder with a nickel rod, and weld the steel to the cast iron like you would with ordinary steel to steel. Allow the welded area to air-cool. Don't apply water to the weld! Doing this may separate the weld from the iron.
Advertisement:
| If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed
below Ê, or virtually any product or
service mentioned in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136
USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313
(shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays,
9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When
speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's
shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays.
Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest.
Please click here
to place an order. |
Convert K241-K361 Kohler wide base block to narrow base, for use in
a garden tractor requiring a narrow base engine block. (Cub Cadet, Ford,
John Deere, Wheel Horse, etc.) See pictures below
Ê An innovative concept
by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this service.
|
To identify a Cub Cadet oil pan, first of all, they're exactly 1-1/16" tall.
The pan to tractor frame holes measures exactly 4-15/16" x 7-5/8". From the
base of the Cub Cadet pan to the centerline of the crankshaft for the K241-K361
Kohler engines, the measurement (height) is exactly 4.750" (4-3/4"). And
with a wide base oil pan, it measures 6.125" (6-1/8"). These measurements
are with the compressed (.030" thickness) oil pan gasket installed.
Cub Cadet oil pans have either a flat bottom or deep sump. The flat bottom pans are originally made for the K241 engine, but will work with no problem on the K301, K321, K341 and K361 engines, but half of the oil dipper on the connecting rod must be cut off. The deep sump ones are suitable for stroker engines. The flat bottom pan holds 1 quart of oil, and the deep sump one holds 1-1/2 quarts. If a deep sump oil pan is used on an engine that originally came with a flat bottom oil pan, the oil dipper on the connecting rod will be too short and won't be able to splash as much oil to thoroughly lubricate the parts.
The length of the dipper on the connecting rod when shortened must be no shorter than 1-5/8" in length, when measured from the bottom of the rod cap to the end of the dipper. And a short dipper will help to increase the engine power. If a K241 Kohler engine has a small, flat bottom Cub Cadet oil pan, the connecting rod has short dipper. But if it has a large, wide base pan, the rod has a long dipper. The K301-K361 engines all come with a deep sump oil pan, as well as a large, wide base oil pan. Therefore, their connecting rods have a long dipper.
If it's an oil pan that's designed for a Cub Cadet garden tractor, then the shallow and deep oil pans are the same (except for the oil capacity) and will fit virtually all models of Cub Cadets. A longer dipper on the connecting rod is not really necessary, but it will provide better lubrication if the oil level were to get low. And the same dipstick will work, because the oil level will be the same.
If an oil pan has the drain plug in the wrong location, another drain plug can be installed by finding an area on the pan where the metal is thicker than the surrounding area. These places are specially made by the factory to drill and cut threads for the oil drain plug.
Oil Refill Capacities for Kohler Engines
| K90/K91 | K141, K160/K161, K181/M8 | K241A, K301A, K321A, K341A | K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16, K361 | KT17, KT17II, KT19, KT19II, M18, M20 | MV16, MV18, MV20 |
K482, K532, K582, K660/K662 |
| 1/2 Quart | 1 Quart | 1 Quart (narrow, shallow/flat oil pan) 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 Quarts (narrow, deep sump oil pan) |
2 Quarts (wide/rectangular oil pan) |
1-1/2 Quarts w/filter Add 1/4 - 1/2 quart when replacing filter (depending on size of filter). |
1-3/4 Quarts w/filter |
3 Quarts Add 1/2 quart for K482, K4532, K582 when replacing filter. Add 1 quart for K660/K662 when replacing filter. |
The best way I found to clean old gasket material from the oil pan and other flat surface engine parts is with a large flat coarse file with the pan (or part) gently clamped in a large bench vise. Be careful not to file off the metal!
Advertisement:
| If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services
listed below Ê, or virtually any product
or service mentioned in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136
USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313
(shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays,
9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When
speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's
shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays.
Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest.
Please click here
to place an order. |
|
 Non-Magnetic Oil
Drain Plug with Flange. Designed for Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12,
K321 and K341 with narrow base oil pan. 3/8" NPT tapered threads x 9/16"
hex head plug. Torque to 265 in. lbs. / 22 ft. lbs. Discontinued from Kohler.
OEM Kohler part # X-708-1-S.
5/8" i.d. Sealing Gasket for Oil Drain Plug with Flange (above). Made of tough fiber material. Discontinued by Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # 241063.
 Non-Magnetic Tapered Threads
Oil Drain Plugs. Universal application. Each have tapered threads which require
no sealing gasket or sealant and threads will not strip out. Torque to 150
in. lbs. / 12 ft. lbs. To avoid cracking oil pan, do not over-tighten, especially
aluminum oil pans! Non-magnetic drain plugs are suitable for engines with
an oil pump and filter.
  Magnetic Tapered Thread Oil
Drain Plugs with Square Head. A-1 Miller oil drain plugs have a super strong
rare earth/neodymium magnet! Five times stronger than competitor's ceramic
(ferrite) magnet and resists demagnetization. Plugs listed below can be used
on various other makes and models of transmissions, transaxles, gearboxes
and small engines. Tapered threads requires no sealing gasket or sealant,
and threads will not strip out when tightened. To avoid cracking oil pan,
do not over-tighten! If in doubt, to insure proper sealing and to prevent
a possible oil leak, use
Teflon®/plumber's thread seal tape on the threads.
Universal application. Magnet attracts and removes
ferrous
metallic wear fragments from the motor oil to reduce engine wear. Sometimes
some of the ferrous wear fragments settle to the bottom of the oil pan or
engine block and do not drain out with the oil when performing an oil change,
even when the oil is hot. The engine will last much longer due to cleaner
oil. Magnetic drain plugs are suitable for engines with splash oil lubrication
(no oil pump/filter).
 Super Strong Rare Earth/Neodymium
Magnets for Engines, Transmissions, Transaxles and Gearboxes. Attracts and
removes ferrous metallic wear fragments from the lubricating oil inside an
engine that does not have an oil pump with an oil filter, or inside a
transmission, transaxle or gearbox to lessen wear and noise to gears and
bearings. Sometimes some of the ferrous wear fragments settle to the bottom
of the oil pan or engine block and do not drain out with the oil when performing
an oil change, even when the oil is hot. Engine or gears/bearings will last
longer due to cleaner oil. Install magnet in bottom of oil pan away from
the oil dipper and any moving parts, or in bottom of a transmission, transaxle
or gearbox away from rotating gears and any moving parts. Use
Krazy Glue,
Super Glue,
Gorilla Glue, or any industrial strength adhesive to secure
magnet in place. These rare earth/neodymium magnets are EXTREMELY strong!
Use caution when handling! Can be difficult to remove from a steel or cast
iron surface, are very brittle and can break easily if mishandled. An
innovative and ingenious concept by Brian Miller because nobody else advertise
this trick. Please accept no other advertised copycat products of this
kind.
|
|
 Oil Fill Hole Cup-Type
Expansion Plug for oil dipstick tube on starter side of block. Fits Kohler
engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361. Alternate
part to the right ð. 1-1/16" diameter.
Install with
RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant. OEM Kohler part # 25 139
47-S.
|
 Oil Fill Hole Block-Off Plate
for oil dipstick tube on starter side of block. Fits Kohler engine models
K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361. Alternate part to the left
ï. Made of 1/8" thick steel. Gasket and
screws not included. Install with
RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant. Discontinued from Kohler.
Kohler part # 237262.
|
 Oil pan gasket
for Kohler engine models K90/K91 (OEM Kohler part # 220157-S) is no longer
available separately, except in complete engine rebuild gasket set. |
|
 Oil pan gasket
for Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K141, K160, K161 and K181/M8.
Unlike some K241-K361 engines, the K141, K160/K161 and K181/M8 Kohler engines
are wide base blocks. Included in complete engine rebuild gasket set.
|
|
 .030" Thickness
Gasket for Narrow Base Block/Oil Pan Kohler K-series engine models K241/M10,
K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 with a narrow cast aluminum or cast
iron oil pan, or if the block have been converted for use with a narrow base
oil pan. Included in complete engine rebuild gasket set below. Please
specify if you have a wide or narrow base block or oil pan.
Click here to determine if your
engine is a wide or narrow base block.
|
|
 .060" Thickness
Gasket for Narrow Block/Oil Pan Kohler K-series engine models K241/M10, K301/M12,
K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 with a narrow cast aluminum or cast iron oil
pan, or if the block have been converted for use with a narrow base oil pan.
To be used with a pressed steel sheet metal oil pan. Not included in complete
engine rebuild gasket set below. Please specify if you have a wide
or narrow base block or oil pan.
Click here to determine if your
engine is a wide or narrow base block.
|
|
 .030" Thickness
Wide Base Block/Oil Pan Gasket for Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models
K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 with a wide base block. Included
in complete engine rebuild gasket set below. Please specify if you
have a wide or narrow base block or oil pan.
Click here to determine if your
engine is a wide or narrow base block.
|
|
 Oil Pan Mounting
Bolts for Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14,
K341/M16 and K361. Grade 8 hex head bolts, 3/8-24 UNC (coarse thread) threads
x 1-1/2" length. Torque at 35 ft. lb.
|
|
| Repair Service: Repair stripped aluminum oil pan mounting bolt hole threads. No need to purchase another oil pan! $5.00 each for parts and labor, plus return shipping & handling. | |
 Cast Iron, Narrow Base, Flat Bottom Oil Pan for Kohler K-series
engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 with a narrow
base block, or if the flanges have been cut off, and the block is converted
for use with a narrow base oil pan. These are clean and in excellent condition,
with good bolt thread holes and no cracks. This is also an exact replacement
for John Deere models 110, 112 and early model 210 with the Kohler K241 engines.
Model 112 serial number 100,001 – 250,000, 110 serial number 250,001
and up with the Kohler K241 engine, and 210 up to serial number 95,261. These
will also fit Wheel Horse garden tractors. Clean and in excellent condition,
including good bolt threads. Includes drain plug. Holds 1 quart of oil. Weighs
4.1 lb. Discontinued from Kohler. OEM Kohler part # 235352.
|
|
 Cast Aluminum, Narrow Base, Flat Bottom Oil Pan for Kohler
K-series engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 with
a narrow base block, or if the flanges have been cut off, and the block is
converted for use with a narrow base oil pan. Clean and in excellent condition,
with good bolt thread holes and no cracks. This is also an exact replacement
for John Deere models 110, 112 and early model 210 with the Kohler K241 engines.
Model 112 serial number 100,001 – 250,000, 110 serial number 250,001
and up with the Kohler K241 engine, and 210 up to serial number 95,261. These
will also fit Wheel Horse garden tractors. Clean and in excellent condition,
including good bolt threads. Includes drain plug. Holds 1 quart of oil. Weighs
1.3 lb. Discontinued from Kohler. OEM Kohler part # 237588-S.
|
|
 Cast Iron, Narrow Base, Deep Sump Oil Pan for Kohler K-series
engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 with a narrow
base block, or if the flanges have been cut off, and the block is converted
for use with a narrow base oil pan. Clean and in excellent condition, with
good bolt thread holes and no cracks. Suitable for stroker pulling engines.
NOTE: For better lubrication, these oil pans require a full length oil
dipper on the connecting rod. Includes drain plug. Holds 1-1/2 quarts
of oil. Weighs 5.4 lb. Discontinued from Kohler. OEM Kohler part # 236328.
|
|
 Cast Aluminum, Narrow Base, Deep Sump Oil Pans for Kohler K-series
engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 with a narrow
base block, or if the flanges have been cut off, and the block is converted
for use with a narrow base oil pan. Clean and in excellent condition, with
good bolt thread holes and no cracks. Suitable for general lawn and garden
use or 4,000 RPM stock pulling engines. NOTE: For better lubrication,
these oil pans require a full length oil dipper on the connecting rod.
Includes drain plug. Holds 1-1/2 quarts of oil. Weighs 1.85 lb.
|
|
 Cast Iron,Wide Base, Oil Pan for Kohler K-series engine models
K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 with a wide base/flanged
block. These are clean and in excellent condition, with good bolt thread
holes and no cracks. These come on various makes of tractors such as: Ariens,
Wheel Horse, some Ford, some Jacobsen, Gravely, New Holland, Sears Suburban,
Engineering Products Co. (Economy models) and Allis Chalmers. NOTE: For
better lubrication, these oil pans require a full length oil dipper on the
connecting rod. Includes drain plug. Holds 2 quarts of oil.
|
|
Advertisement:
| If you wish to have your Kohler stock or pulling engine
tested on a
dynamometer
(dyno), please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old
Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am
to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When
speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's
shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays.
Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest.
A-1 Miller's Fully Computerized Stuska Water Brake Engine Dynamometer (Dyno) Service with DPM Data Logger Software!
Engine Dyno Rental Fee: $30.00 per hour run time from the moment the engine is started. No setup fee for Cub Cadet engines with a 3- or 6-pin/stud clutch driver. An adapter may need to be needed or fabricated for other makes and models of engines. Only engines with the narrow base oil pan can be tested. Engines with the wide base (tall) oil pan cannot be tested at this time. |
For performance testing engines
up to 200hp at speeds up to 12,000 RPM. The only engine dyno service in Missouri
for Kohler pulling engines! Now set up and fully operational, customers can
rent dyno time, fine tune and make adjustments or changes to their engines
for maximum horsepower and torque, and print-out the results so their tractor(s)
will be truly competitive on the track. NOTE: A fresh-built engine may
not produce full power until it's broke-in. This is when the valves wear-in
with the seats to completely seal in the compression. The rings will likely
hold the compression, but the valves may leak slightly until they wear into
the seats. This is normal for all engines and may take several hours or pulls
to happen, then the valves will be able to hold full compression. Lots of
pullers tell me after I've built their engines that it seems to pull stronger
every time they pull it.
A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia,
MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday
, except holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try
again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends
, except holidays. Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for
your arrival. E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who
don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and
fragile merchandise, you can always make the
long drive to A-1 Miller's shop
to personally drop off and/or pick up your engine, transaxle, tractor, etc.
"The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long."
To place an order, please call the number below Ê or send an email with your name, complete and correct postal address and phone number and so I can figure the total with shipping cost and USPS Tracking. For payment options for parts ordered or services performed, or to make a donation to my websites, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge), Western Union Money Transfer, MoneyGram Money Transfers or Popmoney. (If a part for a specific purpose is special ordered, your debit/credit card may be charged for the full amount or as a deposit right after your order is placed; please do not send your debit/credit card information in email!) Or you can pay me through PayPal. (My PayPal account name is my email address. And be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment is for.) If sending a money order, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone number and a description of what the payment is for. My mailing address and phone number are below Ê . I'll make a note of your order, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send the parts to you as soon as I have everything in stock after I receive your payment.
IMPORTANT - When sending your part(s) to me for rebuilding or repair, package everything securely so the item(s) won't get damaged in shipping and please include a note in the box with your name, mailing address, phone number (in case I have any questions) and a description of what you want done. When shipping heavy parts, it's best to put a slightly smaller box inside a larger box, to double the strength and integrity of the package. Because the clumsy "gorillas" or incompetent and uncaring workers that work for certain delivery services mishandle the heavy packages and don't care. And when the work is completed, I'll either call or email you an invoice with the total including shipping & handling.
To figure the shipping cost, I weigh the package with the parts, then I go online to the USPS Postage Rate Calculator website. I type in the weight, my zip code and your zip code, then it shows me the prices for various ways to ship the package. I always choose US Postal Service because I believe that's the most fastest, economical and reliable method.
Shipping: (United States and it's territories)
To save you shipping charges, item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope
weighing less than 13 oz. is sent by First Class Mail for a 2-6 day delivery.
Most packaged item(s) weighing over 13 oz. is sent by US Priority Mail for
a 2-3 day delivery. To save you even more on shipping heavy items, I always
try to use the US Postal Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelope and boxes
(if the item(s) can fit inside the envelope or boxes). Some heavy items weighing
no more than 70 lbs. is sent by US Mail Parcel Post. Item(s) weighing over
70 lbs. is sent by FedEx Ground. Again, if you're the kind of person who
don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and
fragile merchandise, you can always make the
long drive to A-1 Miller's shop
to personally drop off and/or pick up your engine, transaxle, tractor, etc.
We Ship to Canada and Worldwide 
-
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent
by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged
item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service
Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal
Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S.
territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground
or equivalent services.
(When placing an order through PayPal, please provide a list of which
parts you need.)
To make a payment to me through PayPal, go to PayPal's secure website ( https://www.paypal.com/ ) and click on Send and Request -> Pay for goods or services. Type in my email address, or copy and paste this: pullingtractor@aol.com, the amount and follow the directions. Be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment is for. After you've finished, PayPal will send me an email notifying me that you have made a payment to me for the product(s) or services and amount entered. Then I go to their website and direct PayPal to deposit the money in my bank account. And I will send the parts to you as soon as I receive your payment. But I may have to order some of the parts if they're not in stock, which should take a few days. In that case, I will send you the parts as soon as they come in. PayPal protects your financial privacy and security. With PayPal, privacy is built in. It's a way for you to pay without exposing their financial information.
Coming Soon - Detailed
Illustrated Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back Garden Tractor
Pulling Sled, and a Motorized/Self-Propelled Garden Tractor Pulling
Sled. FYI - My professionally-built
motorized/self-propelled pulling sled, Track Master (click the picture to
the right to see a larger image of my sled), is the only one I've ever built
and I got it right the first time, with very few changes that had to be made
to it. I guess I'm just one of those kind of guys that knows what he's doing.
Pullers really like pulling my sled, too. They say it's the best sled they've
ever pulled. (Not bragging, just stating the truth.) By the way - Track Master
sled is engineered so well (by Brian Miller), other sled owners/builders
have copied my well thought-out and proven design. Anyway, I have lots of work to
do in my shop and I work on the sled plans in my spare time. As soon as my plans with an inventory list of parts to use
are perfected, I'll post the update in my websites. Remember - Perfection
takes time. If it's worth having, it's worth waiting for. Also, I plan to
acquire a bigger shop and I may build high quality garden tractor pulling
sleds in the future to offer for sale. Please call me at 573-256-0313 (shop)
or 573-881-7229 (cell), or email me at
pullingtractor@aol.com or
pullingtractor@yahoo.com if
you're interested. - Brian Miller
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