Please visit these other Brian Miller's websites:
Copyright © 1996-Present. This website created, designed and maintained by Brian Miller
This page was updated 3/3/16 (Click Refresh to see changes or updates.) Optimized for 1024 x 768 screen resolution. To search for a word or phrase in any of my web sites, with Microsoft Internet Explorer 6.x, or Google Chrome, press CTRL+F to open the Find dialog box. Although every effort has been taken to check the accuracy of information contained herein, I cannot assume responsibility for errors.
The basis of improved engine performance is precision workmanship. Every effort must be made to reduce friction and step up power. It must be remembered that extreme accuracy in setting the ignition timing, carburetion, together with a quality valve job, will give better than average performance. Contributing largely to stepped-up performance is precision balancing of the piston assembly and the connecting rod to the crankshaft counterweights. A special dynamic balancing machine or an electronic digital scale is used for balancing the piston assembly/rod to the crankshaft so the total weight of the piston assembly/connecting rod is exactly the same as the crankshaft's counterweights. Also, precision balancing of the rotating assembly and flywheel and low vibration saves wear and tear on internal engine components and attached external equipment.
If bolts, screws or nuts on the engine or tractor frame loosen due to engine vibration, there's no need to apply Loctite on the threads of the fastener. Just install a split lock washer of the correct size that fits the fastener (under the head or nut) then torque the fastener to specs. The lock washer will guarantee the fastener will stay tight. Or a self-locking nut can be used instead.
Here's some important information to remember -
First of all, Kohler (and all other engine manufacturers) [obviously] balance their engines at the factory. The crankshafts' counterweights are equally balanced to the weight of the piston assembly to reduce engine vibration. The crankshafts that's are used in the12hp, 14hp, 16hp [valves in block] and 18hp OHV (Over Head Valve) engines have the same stroke. The crankshaft in the 14hp and 16hp flathead cast iron block Kohler engine, and the 18hp OHV cast iron block Kohler engine are identical (except perhaps for the PTO end). Therefore, they're balanced the same and can be used in either engine. All these engines have the same stroke, too. Only the counterweights are different. More metal is removed (drilled and machined off) from the counterweights for the 12hp engines, which use a lighter weight piston. The 12hp crank and piston assembly are a balanced set. Kohler uses the same identical piston in their 16hp [valves in block] and 18hp OHV engines. Although their connecting rods are made of different material, they weigh the same. Therefore, the cranks are balanced the same. The wrist pin is narrower in the 16hp and 18hp piston, making them the same weight as the 14hp piston and pin. Therefore, the same crankshaft can be used with the 14hp, 16hp and 18hp OHV piston assembly. If both counterweights on your crankshaft aren't machined off flat, then it's a 14 or 16hp crank. If they are machined off, then it's a 12hp crankshaft. And a 12hp crank shouldn't be used with a 14 or 16hp piston assembly. The engine will vibrate more than usual and because of the heaver piston assembly, the connecting rod could stretch and eventually break. If a 14 or 16hp crank is used with a 12hp piston, because of the heavier counterweights, the crankshaft could eventually break. Because there's one opposing force working against the other. ("For every action, there's an equal and opposite reaction." - Newton's third law of motion.)
In other words, the 12hp crankshaft is balanced differently from the 14, 16hp flatheads and the 18hp OHV engine crankshafts. Although the stroke and rod journal are the same, the counterweights on the 12hp crank are different. The 12hp piston assembly weighs less than the 14, 16 and 18hp piston assemblies. Therefore, the 14, 16 and 18hp crankshafts need more metal on the counterweights to balance out equally. And 14, 16 and 18hp crankshafts are all balanced the same, which means that they're interchangeable between the 14, 16 and 18hp engines.
Because of it's shorter stroke, the 10hp crankshaft is different from the 12, 14 and 16hp flatheads and the 18hp OHV K361 cranks. The 12hp crankshaft's counterweights are machined flat for the lighter-weight 12hp piston/rings assembly, while the 14 and 16hp flatheads and the 18hp OHV K361 crankshaft's counterweights are rounded for the heavier 14 and 16hp flatheads and the 18hp OHV K361 piston/rings assemblies. The same crankshaft is used in the 14 and 16hp flatheads and the 18hp OHV K361 engines because their piston/rings assemblies weigh the same.
There's two types of K301 12hp Kohler crankshafts. One is the early type. Its counterweights are the same width, and they're rounded with holes drilled. (Certain K241 10hp crankshafts are like this, too.) The later K301 12hp cranks have one wide and one narrow counterweight and both of them are machined flat to lighten them.
The crankshaft to the right is the very early model K301 12hp version, because the counterweights are the same width. This crankshaft was produced in 1966-early 1969, before the K321 (and the K341 and K361, which share the same crankshaft because the piston assemblies are balanced the same) came into production. The K321 went into production in late 1969. The counterweights on the crankshaft for the K321, K341 and K361 engines, one is narrow and the other is wide. When the K321, K341 and K361 engines were manufactured, Kohler stopped making this type of crank and used the K321, K341 and K361 crankshafts in the K301. They just machined part of the counterweights off and drilled a few holes to bring it into balance with the lighter weight K301 piston assembly. And I have experienced certain K301 engines vibrate severely for some unknown reason. I had to have the crankshaft dynamically and precision spin-balanced and then the engine ran smooth with a lot less vibration. This goes to show that the technology for single cylinder engine balancing during the 1960's isn't like it is today.
K-series VS Magnum Crankshafts -
A K-series 12hp crankshaft cannot be used with a 14hp, 16hp or even the 18hp OHV piston/rings assembly without adding weight to the counterweights because the 12hp crankshaft is balanced too light. The opposite would need to be done if a 14hp, 16hp or 18hp OHV crankshaft is used with a 12hp piston/rings assembly, or the engine would vibrate more than normal. If a K-series 12hp crankshaft is going to be used in a 14hp or 16hp piston assembly, it would need to precision balanced.
The Magnum crankshafts are interchangeable with the older K-series crankshafts.... but the 12hp/M12, 14hp/M14 and 16hp/M16 Magnum crankshafts are all balanced the same... for a 12hp piston/rings assembly. Some Magnum engines use three counterbalance gears. Just like the K-series, the balance gears on the side are to reduce the side-thrust of the counterweights of the crankshaft. But the bottom balance gear in the Magnum is used to balance the rotating assembly because the Magnum counterweights are too light for the 14hp and 16hp piston/rings assemblies. Go here to learn how to align the three balance gears: Kohler Three Gear Balance Gear System Service Bulletin 208.pdf. (require Adobe Acrobat Reader and use Google Chrome web browser for a faster download of web sites with large files.)
For the heavier 14hp and 16hp piston/rings assemblies, the bottom balance gear simulates additional weight on the counterweights of the crankshaft so the engine will run with less vibration. If the Magnum balance gears are left out with any model, the engine will vibrate terribly! But if the balance gears are purposely left out, such as for high RPM operation, the rotating assembly would need to be precision balanced to reduce dangerous vibration. The older K-series engines will not vibrate more than it did before without balance gears installed.
And if a Magnum crankshaft is replaced with a K-series crankshaft, the Magnum balance gears shouldn't be used with the K-series crankshaft. If they are used, the engine may vibrate a lot.
If a Magnum (M12, M14 or M16) crankshaft require three balance gears, it can be used without the balance gears in a K-series block if it is precision spin-balanced to reduce the vibration (with the connecting rod and piston/rings assembly) on a crankshaft balancing machine.
And I have no idea why Kohler changed the crankshaft balancing with the Magnum single cylinder engines to a three gear balancing system. It make no sense at all to me. I mean, the way the older K-series engines was balanced worked great. But anyway, it'll be best to leave out the balance gears and have the rotating assembly (crankshaft, piston/rod assembly) dynamically and precision spin-balanced. By having this done, the engine, with no doubt, should run much smoother and possibly last longer.
The early K-series crankshafts have a 3/16" wide slotted [flywheel] keyway and a 5/8" diameter threaded stud w/nut to retain the flywheel, and the later K-series and all Magnum crankshafts have a #5 Woodruff [flywheel] keyway and a 3/8" bolt to retain the flywheel.
The 10hp crankshaft have a shorter stroke (2.875") than the 12hp, 14hp and 16hp cranks (3.25"). The 10hp crankshaft is in a class by themselves. Therefore, they can't be used in combination with a 12hp, 14hp or 16hp connecting rod or piston assembly without extensive machine work and precision balancing. And the 12hp, 14hp and 16hp cranks can't be used with a 10hp connecting rod or piston assembly without extensive machine work and precision balancing.
Identifying the Differences in the K-series Crankshafts -
Kohler's Dynamic Counterbalance System -
Various Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 use a Dynamic Balance System, which are two out-of-balance gears that rotate on stub shafts that's pressed into the PTO side of the engine block. These counterbalance gears rotate in opposite direction of the crankshaft. These gears reduce the rotating side thrust (vibrating affect) of the crankshaft.
Unless a heavier crankshaft is used (than the original one that came in the engine), in some 10hp Kohler engines, it will vibrate more if the balance gears are left out. But the 12, 14, 16hp flatheads and 18hp OHV engines won't vibrate that much more without the balance gears. And the 10hp engine require different balance gears than the 12, 14, 16hp flatheads and 18hp OHV engines.
For reasons unknown why Kohler did this, some K301 (12hp) Kohler engines will vibrate more without balance gears, while others don't vibrate much more without the balance gears. The counterweights on the crankshafts that vibrate more and the ones that don't vibrate as much look almost the same, too. Only the 12hp engines experience this. Most 14hp and 16hp engines don't vibrate much more without balance gears. Anyway, if the balance gears have been removed from a 12hp engine, and it vibrates more than before, then the Crankshaft Balance Plate Kit from Kirk Engines http://www.kirkengines.com/index.php#CrankshaftBalancePlateKit can be installed, or have the rotating parts (crankshaft and rod/piston assembly) precision spin-balanced at an automotive speed shop. (A place that balance race car engines.)
For most single cylinder Kohler engines, balance gears isn't necessary.
Leaving out the balance gears shouldn't have a noticeable effect on engine vibration, but sometimes they help to reduce engine vibration. So if you choose to reinstall or leave them in an engine that will never turn more than 4,000 RPM (this is the maximum RPM for pulling in stock classes or doing ordinary yard work), make sure that the bearings in the [balance] gears and the stub shafts that they spin on are in good condition. If the bearings are worn and if the balance gears wobble, they'll wear the crankshaft gear teeth and they could break, possibly destroying the engine. By the way - the balance gears alignment tool (timing gage) is no longer available from Kohler. If you find a good used one or a new one from a Kohler dealer's old stock, the Kohler part numbers are 25 455 06-S, 10355 or Y-357. It's much easier to use this plastic tool when aligning the balance gears in time with the crankshaft. See the animated image to the right for correct identification of this tool.
Once, just for curiosity, after I've rebuilt a 12hp (K301) Kohler engine, I've ran the engine with the balance gears installed and correctly aligned with the crankshaft. Then I removed the balance gears just to see if the engine would vibrate more. (It wasn't a lot of work to remove the gears. I removed the oil pan, snap rings, washers and spacers, rotated the crankshaft to clear the balance gears, and lifted the gears right out.) Anyway, I found that without the balance gears, the engine vibrated EXACTLY the same as when the gears were installed! Wonder why Kohler installs them in the first place. ????
Counterbalance gears does no good to install them. Most Kohler engines don't come with them and they do very little to help reduce engine vibration. When left out, the engine will not vibrate more than usual. Besides, being balance gears are made of cast iron and operate out of balance on a single needle bearing, they've been known to break and destroy the crankshaft, cam and engine block. I've seen this happen a few times. Therefore, I highly recommend leaving them out.
By the way - I've seen balance gears in the 10hp, 12hp, 14hp and 16hp engines, but not every one of them have balance gears. I've even seen some 16hp Kohler Magnum engines have three balance gears! Anyway, it seems that Kohler was selective in which engines they put them in. Perhaps they only put them in engines that was installed in a "luxury-type" of garden tractor to help reduce operator discomfort. And every balance gear I've ever seen appear to be exactly the same weight and design.
If a stock OEM-type piston assembly and connecting rod is going to be (re)used, there's no need to re-balance the crankshaft/piston/rod assembly if these gears are removed. If you want, leave the balance gears out. Actually, they're more trouble reinstalling and align with the crankshaft than they're worth. You won't notice that much difference in the vibration of the engine, either. It won't damage anything and it won't hurt anything. The engine will operate just fine without them.
The balance gears in a 12hp Kohler engine can be removed without removing the crankshaft. Use heavy duty, quality-made snap ring pliers with 90° tips to remove the [heavy gauge] snap rings that retain the balance gears. Because these snap rings are actually thicker than ordinary ones which makes them harder to expand. A flat screwdriver may need to be wedged under each snap ring to help them off the stub shafts. (Been there, done that many times. And it's difficult each time.) Be sure to remove the spacers (if equipped) and shims from the shafts, too. The counterweights on the 12hp crankshaft are machined off, allowing room to remove the balance gears. But on a 14 and 16hp engine, one of the counterweights on the crankshaft may be in the way. If it is, try driving the pins into the crankcase from outside the PTO end of the block. By the way - the shims from removal of the balance gears can be used as camshaft shims to set the cam-to-block clearance on the 10-16hp engines.
Don't (re)install the balance gears in an engine if it's going to turn above 4,000 RPM! (The factory maximum RPM for virtually all small gas engines, including all of Kohler engines is 3,600.) The high RPM or wide open throttle operation could cause them to break and destroy the engine! So when building an engine that's going to turn above 4,000 RPM, these gears (and spacers) MUST be permanently removed! Remember - "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure." It's okay to leave the stub shafts in the block. Or if you want, the balance gear stub shafts can be removed with a hardened 7/16" steel rod and a big hammer to drive them out from the PTO end of the block. They will fall into the block. And don't worry about driving out the stub shafts with a hammer, the engine block will not crack. But using a hydraulic press to drive the pins out could cause the block to crack.
The best and easiest way to plug the stub shaft holes is to cut 3/8" NPT threads into the holes from outside the block, and then install a couple of 3/8" NPT Hex Socket (Allen) pipe plugs. A special tool is required to install 1/2" cup-shaped expansion plugs in the stub shaft holes. And be sure to use RTV silicone sealant with either plug to prevent an oil leak, too.
How To Remove the Crankshaft from a Kohler Engine -
Remove the piston/connecting rod, flywheel, bearing plate and anything that's on the PTO end of the crankshaft. (Not necessarily in this order.) Then very gently, bump the PTO end with a wooden block to remove the crankshaft from the block. And there's no need to reinstall the balance gears. They serve very little purpose.
How Fast Can You Spin A Cast Iron Crankshaft?
As long as the piston assembly and connecting rod to the crankshaft counterweights, including the flywheel, starter pulley and clutch components are all precision balanced, you can spin it as fast as you want. Just make sure to have the crankshaft checked for stress cracks (magnafluxed) before using it.
When installing a high-performance [heavier than OEM stock] piston and connecting rod assembly in a single cylinder engine, and to minimize dangerous vibration and to prevent the possibility of self destruction, the crankshaft must be re-balanced (more weight added to the counterweights) to compensate for the difference in weight. If an engine vibrates severely, then the only things that causes the vibration is the piston/rings/wrist pin/clips assembly and/or the connecting rod isn't equally balanced to the crankshaft's counterweights. Another thing would be an out of balance flywheel. Also, if there's a parasitic accessory attached to the crankshaft, such as a bent pulley, it could be causing the vibration.
Note: when using an OEM piston assembly and connecting rod, and if the rod journal (crank pin) on the crankshaft is reground for a smaller diameter bearing, that will not throw off the balance of the rotating assembly. Because the undersized rod bearing will take up the material that was removed from the crankshaft.
FYI - STATIC balancing is when parts are at rest, and DYNAMIC balancing is when parts are in motion. Dynamic balancing is a more precise way to balance anything that spins, but static balancing is a lower cost alternative... also proven very effective. An accurate and precision electronic digital scale that breaks at 1/10th of an ounce (0.1 lb.) or 1 gram to static balance a crankshaft to the piston and connecting rod assembly will be needed. For an example of how much 1/10th of an ounce is, a dime (10¢) weighs exactly 1/10th of an ounce (2.8 grams). But with a single cylinder engine, the engine will still vibrate some due to the side thrust of the counterweights, which is unpreventable.
How to Static Balance a Single Cylinder Engine:
If a high-performance 12hp (K301) piston assembly is going to be used in a Kohler engine, a 16hp or 18hp crankshaft can be used instead for rebalancing. Less weight will need to be added to the counterweights because of the smaller and lighter weight 12hp piston assembly.
Heavy metal (tungsten steel) and tools that's specifically made for crankshaft balancing can be purchased from GOODSON (http://www.goodson.com) Tools and Supplies for Engine Builders. (Request a catalog from them.)
The reason most [high dollar] billet steel crankshafts break at wide open throttle is because they were not dynamically and precision spin-balanced using a specialized crankshaft/flywheel balancing machine. This happens when the counterweights on the crankshaft weighs much more than the piston and connecting rod assembly. When out-of-balance, the crankshaft flexes a few thousandths of an inch at high RPMs, which weakens the metal and causes fatigue cracks, eventually resulting in breakage. When a crankshaft breaks, it can destroy the camshaft and possibly the engine block. So it's very important that an aftermarket billet steel (and cast iron) crankshaft be dynamically and precision spin-balanced when the engine is ran at very high RPMs. Most manufacturers of billet steel crankshafts do not dynamically and precision spin-balance them. They include counterweights on the crankshaft that's pre-weighed and matched to the weight of the piston and connecting rod assembly to be used with the crankshaft. The counterweights must weigh the same as the piston and connecting rod assembly, with the exception of the weight of the rod journal, which counter-weighs the counterweights. When rotating, the rod journal too, adds weight to the piston and connecting rod assembly. And the same balancing machine that's designed to balance automotive crankshafts and flywheels can be used to balance single cylinder Kohler (and other makes of small engines) crankshafts and flywheels. To balance a crankshaft with a specialized flywheel/crankshaft balancing machine, all that is needed is a bob-weight that clamps on the rod journal. The bob-weight simulates the weight of (and must weigh exactly the same as) the piston and connecting rod assembly that is going to be used with the crankshaft to be balanced. If the piston and connecting rod assembly and/or crankshaft is used with another piston and connecting rod assembly and/or crankshaft, the rotating assembly will be out-of-balance.
But then again, when excessively out of balance, a billet steel crankshaft will not always break. A billet connecting rod will break instead. This happens when the piston and rod assembly weighs much more than the counterweights on the crankshaft. What happens is, as the engine rotates at high RPMs or at wide open throttle, the weight of the piston and connecting rod is sent upward a lot more than the counterweights are sent downward , resulting in two unequal opposing forces, and this places severe strain on the connecting rod cap' bolts. Eventually, the upward force of the piston and rod will cause the bolts to stretch (the 4-bolt hex socket (Allen) head cap screws (bolts) in certain billet rods are more prone to stretching), which will cause the rod to knock, and the continuing stretching of the bolts will cause them to break, ultimately resulting in connecting rod breakage, which can destroy the entire engine block. So it'll be a good idea to definitely spend the extra time and money to have your rotating assembly dynamically and precision spin-balanced.
If the engine still vibrates at high RPM or at wide open throttle after doing the above È, it's either because of the side thrust of the crankshaft counterweights (which is normal in single cylinder engines), or if the vibration is severe, have the flywheel checked for precision balance and/or the clutch assembly trued up in a metal lathe. If you have a garden tractor with rubber motor mounts, these must replaced with solid metal mounts. If the crankshaft/piston/rod are balanced correctly and the flywheel is also balanced, and the tapers are clean, the crankshaft should last the life of the engine. Even when used in high-performance conditions.
|If you need any of the parts or services listed below Ê, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends (except Holidays). Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival. Fax: 1-573-449-7347. E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. Please click here to place an order.|
Handheld Small Engine Wireless Tachometer. For gas/spark ignite engines
only. High quality and very accurate. This handheld analog tach works great
for checking/setting the RPM on various small engines in the shop, and/or
for checking/setting the RPM [tech] on stock governored engines at pulling
events, ATVs/UTVS, etc. Hold sensor (antenna) close to spark plug wire for
reading. Operates off a self-contained replaceable 9 volt battery. Has built-in
battery voltage check. Reads up to 5,000 RPM on the low scale, and 15,000
RPM on the high scale.
Small Engine Tachometer and Hour Meter. High quality and very accurate.
Large 3/8 inch LCD display. Works with all spark ignition engines by selecting
engine type using S1 and S2 buttons. Instructions included. Tachometer reads
up to 99,999 RPM. Hour meter reads up to 9999:59 hours/minutes then resets
to Zero. Programmable maintenance hour setting with service icon, a reminder
when to change oil or other service. Can be manually reset to Zero hours.
Single wire wraps around spark plug wire and secured with two supplied nylon
zip-ties. Tachometer can be surface-mounted and secured with two screws.
Has built-in battery rated up to 4 years. Sealed unit; weather and water
resistant. Dimensions: 2" wide x 1-3/4" depth x 3/4" height.
Proximity Sensor Kits. For gas or diesel engines. Will work with small
engines or automotive engines. This precision digital tachometer is triggered
by the same method as the
crank trigger ignition
with a small detector/trigger steel screw or magnet in a rotating disc or
on flywheel. A sturdy steel bracket will need to be fabricated by customer
to mount the sensor in close proximity of the rotating disc or flywheel.
Set clearance (air gap) at .020"-.060". Tachometer can be dash- or panel-mounted.
Works with 8-24 volts DC. Displays up to 9,999 RPM. Very accurate. Choice
of RED or
BLUE numeric display.
|Solid Motor Mounts for Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" Tractors
- Replace Deteriorated ISO-Mounts with a Set of Machined Solid Steel Motor
Mounts! An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because I
was the one who originally thought of and advertised this
|Solid Motor Mounts for Wheel Horse - Replace Deteriorated
ISO-Mounts with a Set of Machined Solid Aluminum Motor Mounts!
An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise
and offer this product for sale.
Used 9-1/2" diameter genuine
OEM cast iron Kohler K-series flywheel for 10hp-16hp K-series flathead and
18hp OHV engines. These flywheels are for battery ignition only, not magneto
ignition. They're in excellent condition and unaltered. No crack in the keyway,
no broken or missing fan blades and no cracked or missing internal magnets
for charging system (if used for yard use). These
flywheels are for stock tractors only; not to be turned above 4,000
|10hp, 12hp, 14hp
and 16hp K-series and Magnum flathead single cylinder engine crankshafts.
These cast iron cranks are a genuine Kohler part, they're used, but in
good condition. They may have either a 1" or 1-1/8" diameter x 3-1/2" long
keyed PTO shaft and may have a STD or freshly reground .010", .020" or .030"
undersized journal. Although .030" is rare, it's still safe to use. And
if you're going to use a pulley, clutch, etc., on the PTO end, then I need
to know the dimensions of the PTO shaft on your crankshaft so we can match
it to one that we may have in stock. Measure the diameter and length from
the gear teeth. [When available.]
Counterbalance Gear Reinstallation Kit. Reduce severe engine vibration up
to 3,600 up to RPM. Fits various Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12,
K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361. NOTE: Not all Kohler blocks listed came with
balance gears. Check to see if your block already have the stub shafts
installed. Kit includes: Two counterbalance gears w/good needle bearings,
two spacers, four thrust washers and two heavy duty snap rings. Stub shafts
Kohler Dynamic Counterbalance Gear Complete Installation Kit. Reduce severe engine vibration up to 3,600 up to RPM. Fits various Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361. NOTE: Not all Kohler blocks listed came with balance gears. Check to see if your block already have the stub shafts installed. Kit includes: Two stub shafts, counterbalance gears w/good needle bearings, two spacers, four thrust washers and two heavy duty snap rings.
Balance (cast or steel) flywheel for Kohler 10-16hp cast iron block engine.
Balance cast iron (Kohler) crankshaft and matching connecting rod and piston assembly.
|Flywheel Retaining Nuts for threaded stud on end of K-series
and steel crankshafts. IMPORTANT: Apply thin coat of motor oil on threads
of crankshaft before installing nut then torque each at 65 ft. lbs.
bolt for threaded hole in end of crankshaft. Each are grade 8, 1-1/2" thread
length. Torque at 40 ft. lb. Replaces Kohler part # 25 086 253-S.
Flywheel / Aluminum Hub Retaining Washers. A thick, wide washer is a must to secure flywheel and prevent clutch/driveshaft aluminum hub adapter breakage! Each made of steel and measures 1-1/4" o.d. x approximately 1/4" thick.
|Steel Adapter Step Washers for Centering OEM Cub Cadet or billet
aluminum clutch hubs on crankshaft. A must to prevent severe wobble and prevent
hub and driveshaft/clutch breakage! NOTE: As long as the rotating clutch
components are trued-up in a metal lathe to minimize vibration, and the wide,
thick washer is used inside the hub to secure the hub to the flywheel, and
the flywheel retaining nut or bolt properly torqued, the OEM cast aluminum
clutch hub have been proven to hold up to a wide open throttle pulling
|OEM Kohler Aluminum
Clutch Hub Adapters. Fits John Deere and all models of Cub Cadet garden tractors.
|New main crankshaft
bearings for 7hp and 8hp Kohler K-series and Magnum single cylinder cast
iron flathead engines. These are specifically designed to provide maximum
performance by means of precise ball implement selection. Heat treated. Made
in China, but has the same quality as OEM Kohler bearings for long wear.
Dimensions: 1.18" i.d. x 2.44" o.d. x .62" width. Part # 150-960.
$10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
New 8 ball main crankshaft bearings for 10hp, 12hp, 14hp, 16hp (flatheads) and 18hp (OHV) Kohler K-series and Magnum single cylinder cast iron engines. These are specifically designed to provide maximum performance through precise ball implement selection. At high RPM or at wide open throttle, bigger balls run cooler which create less rolling resistance than bearings with smaller balls. Heat treated. Made in China, but has the same quality as OEM Kohler bearings for long wear. Dimensions: 1.57" i.d. x 3.54" o.d. x .90" width. Part #150-973. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
NOTE: If you cleaned all the oil out of the crankshaft main [ball] bearings and allowed them to dry, and when you spun the bearings by hand, and if the bearings isn't worn much or at all, they might feel "rough" and make a rattling sound. This roughness or noise isn't necessarily because the bearing is worn out. The noise is mainly caused by the balls running dry on the races because there's no oil to separate them from the races. Try applying a small amount of motor oil to the balls/races then spin them. They should be a lot quieter. The same thing will happen with new ball bearings.
|If you wish to have your Kohler stock or pulling engine
tested on a
(dyno), please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old
Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am
to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When
speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's
shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends (except Holidays).
Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest.
A-1 Miller's Fully Computerized Stuska Water Brake Engine Dynamometer (Dyno) Service!
For performance testing engines up to 200hp at speeds up to 12,000 RPM. The only engine dyno service in Missouri for Kohler pulling engines! Now set up and fully operational, customers can rent dyno time, fine tune and make adjustments or changes to their engines for maximum horsepower and torque, and print-out the results so their tractor(s) will be truly competitive on the track.
Engine Dyno Rental Fee: $30.00 per hour run time from the moment the engine is started. No setup fee for Cub Cadet engines with a 3- or 6-pin/stud clutch driver. An adapter may need to be needed or fabricated for other makes and models of engines. Only engines with the narrow base oil pan can be tested. Engines with the wide base (tall) oil pan cannot be tested at this time.
A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends (except Holidays). Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival. Fax: 1-573-449-7347. E-mail: email@example.com. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can always make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally drop off and/or pick up your engine, transaxle, tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long."
To place an order, please call the number below Ê or send an email with your name, complete and correct postal address and phone number and so I can figure the total with shipping cost and USPS Tracking. For payment, I accept cash (in person), Postal money orders or cashier's checks made out in my name, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express and Western Union Money Transfer. (If a part for a specific purpose is special ordered, your debit/credit card may be charged for the full amount or as a deposit right after your order is placed; please do not send your debit/credit card information in email!) Or you can pay me through PayPal. (My PayPal account name is my email address. And be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment is for.) If sending a money order, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone number and a description of what the payment is for. My mailing address and phone number are below Ê . I'll make a note of your order, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send the parts to you as soon as I have everything in stock after I receive your payment.
IMPORTANT - When sending your part(s) to me for rebuilding or repair, package everything securely so the item(s) won't get damaged in shipping and please include a note in the box with your name, mailing address, phone number (in case I have any questions) and a description of what you want done. When shipping heavy parts, it's best to put a slightly smaller box inside a larger box, to double the strength and integrity of the package. Because the clumsy "gorillas" or incompetent and uncaring workers that work for certain delivery services mishandle the heavy packages and don't care. And when the work is completed, I'll either call or email you an invoice with the total including shipping and handling.
To figure the shipping cost, I weigh the package with the parts, then I go online to the USPS Postage Rate Calculator website. I type in the weight, my zip code and your zip code, then it shows me the prices for various ways to ship the package. I always choose US Postal Service because I believe that's the most fastest, economical and reliable method.
Shipping: (United States and it's territories)
To save you shipping charges, item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 13 oz. is sent by First Class Mail for a 2-6 day delivery. Most packaged item(s) weighing over 13 oz. is sent by US Priority Mail for a 2-3 day delivery. To save you even more on shipping heavy items, I always try to use the US Postal Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelope and boxes (if the item(s) can fit inside the envelope or boxes). Some heavy items weighing no more than 70 lbs. is sent by US Mail Parcel Post. Item(s) weighing over 70 lbs. is sent by FedEx Ground. Again, if you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can always make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally drop off and/or pick up your engine, transaxle, tractor, etc.
Ship to Canada and Worldwide
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S. territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground or equivalent services.
To make a payment to me through PayPal, go to PayPal's secure website ( https://www.paypal.com/ ) and click on Send and Request -> Pay for goods or services. Type in my email address, or copy and paste this: firstname.lastname@example.org, the amount and follow the directions. Be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment is for. After you've finished, PayPal will send me an email notifying me that you have made a payment to me for the product(s) or services and amount entered. Then I go to their website and direct PayPal to deposit the money in my bank account. And I will send the parts to you as soon as I receive your payment. But I may have to order some of the parts if they're not in stock, which should take a few days. In that case, I will send you the parts as soon as they come in. PayPal protects your financial privacy and security. With PayPal, privacy is built in. It's a way for you to pay without exposing their financial information.
Ã Return to Main Pulling Tips Page | Return To Previous Page | Reputable Garden Pulling Tractor Engine Builders, Parts Suppliers and Service Providers | Hot Links to Reputable Garden Tractor Pulling Clubs and Associations | Top of Page
Copyright © 1996-Present. This website created, designed and maintained by Brian Miller.