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If you would like to purchase
any of the parts or services listed in this website, and/or for FREE professional
and honest technical assistance and support, please contact: A-1 Miller's
Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri)
65203-9136 USA | 
Phone:
1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice
message, please speak slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except
holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later.
(When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I
stutter.)
E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.
When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly
with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to
the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we
can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
   Throttle
Stabilizer/Anti-Surge Springs. Lightweight spring connects between throttle
and governor levers to remove free play (looseness) in linkage connections
and reduce erratic engine behavior due to throttle flutter for a smoother
running engine and reduce wear to throttle shaft. Can be used on virtually
any Briggs & Stratton, Kohler K-series, Magnum or Command single- or
twin-cylinder cast iron or aluminum block engine. A must for a generator,
welder or 4,000 RPM± governored competition pulling engine. With a
governored pulling engine, throttle flutter causes the engine RPM to momentarily
spike, which will cause the
rear tires to lose traction
(temporary jerk), resulting in a possible failed pull. If a small hole isn't
already present in each lever close to linkage connection, may need to drill
a small hole to install spring.
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 V-Shaped/Coiled Governor
Springs to regulate and maintain engine speed. Each has hook on each end.
Not available in aftermarket. L
|
 V-Shaped/Coiled Governor
Spring to regulate and maintain engine speed. Designed for various Kohler
engine models K181 and M8. Has hook on one end and "Z" bend on other end.
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 Governor Spring to regulate
and maintain engine speed. Designed for newer Kohler engine model K181's
with specification numbers 301000-301045, and various Kohler Magnum engine
model M8's with specification numbers 301500-301651.
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 26 Coil Governor Spring
to regulate and maintain engine speed. Designed for most Kohler engine models
K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361. Used in Cub Cadet models:
70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124,
125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 149, 169, 1050, 1204, 1210 and 1211. Also can be
used on various Kohler engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series
II, M18 and M20. All these engines listed use the same governor gear assembly.
2-5/8" overall length (outside hook to outside hook). Replaces discontinued
23 coil short length governor spring, Kohler part # 45 091 01-S.
 26 Coil Extended Length Governor
Spring to regulate and maintain engine speed. Designed for various Kohler
K-series and Magnum engine models with the following specification numbers:
K301-47766, K341-71207, 71209, 71232; M10-461504, 461505, 461512, 461513,
461526, 461530, 461531, 461532, 461539, 461542, 461543, 461546, 461551;
M12-471504, 471505, 471506, 471507, 471553, 471554, 471555, 471569, 471571
471572, 471576, 471583, 471585, 471589; M14-601504, 601505, 601553; M16-711504,
711505, 711506, 711507, 711534, 711535, 711551, 711552, 711558, 711577, 711585.
Used with an air compressor, concrete saw or sprayer. 5-5/8" overall length
(outside hook to outside hook). Replaces discontinued 23 coil extended length
governor spring, Kohler part # 47 089 07-S.
 34 Coil Extended Length Governor
Spring to regulate and maintain engine speed. Designed for Kohler K-series
AQS (Quiet Line) and Magnum engine models with the following specification
numbers: K241-46717, 46720, 46734, 46740, 46753, 46754, 46763, 46785; K301-47541,
47542, 47581, 47585, 47606, 47620, 47634, 47640, 47643, 47673, 47732, 47764,
47795, 47805; K321-60244, 60269, 60270, 60291, 60293, 60311, 60312, 60318,
60320, 60321, 60343, 60374, 60397, 60402, 60411, 60413, 60415; K341-71147,
71148, 71164, 71167, 71169, 71172 71176, 71198, 71203, 71221, 71222, 71227,
71242, 71243, 71270, 71275, 71338, 71355, 71356, 71366, 71369; M10-461509,
461521, 461533, M12-471514; 471516, 471527, 471528, 471536, 471538, 471545,
471546, 471549, 471580, 471581, 471584; M14-601513, 601524, 601525, 601528,
601534, 601538, 601540, 601542, 601558, 601559, 601561; M16-711513, 711514,
711521, 711523, 711527, 711528, 711529, 711532, 711536, 711537, 711539, 711544,
711546, 711555, 711560, 711562, 711563, 711568, 711570, 711575, 711576, 711580,
711593. Used in Cub Cadet models: 680, 1000, 1200, 1210, 1250, 1282, 1450,
1650, and John Deere AQS (Quiet Line) engines. Most common for general lawn
and garden use. 8" overall length (outside hook to outside hook).
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| Throttle Linkages Ê | Top of Page |
 Nylon Bushing for throttle
link used on Kohler engine models K181, M8, MV16, MV18, MV120 and certain
aluminum block Kohler engines with 3/16" hole in governor and throttle levers.
OEM Kohler part # 25 158 08-S. $1.49 each, plus shipping & handling.
Not available in aftermarket. L
  Nylon Bushings for throttle link used on Kohler engine models
K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 with Carter or Kohler #26,
#28, #30 or Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors with 3/16" hole in governor
lever and hole on throttle lever and without ball integrated with throttle
lever. Each also fits certain aluminum block Kohler engines with 3/16" hole
in governor and throttle levers. The two bushings below are identical except
for the color. Not available in aftermarket.
L
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 Throttle Link for Kohler
flathead cast iron block K-series engine model K90/K91 with .080" hole in
governor and throttle levers. 1-5/8" overall length. OEM Kohler part # 220380-S.
$11.61 each, plus shipping & handling. Not available in
aftermarket. L |
 Throttle Link for Kohler
engine models K141, K160/K161, K181 and certain Magnum M8 with .080" hole
in governor and throttle levers. 2-1/2" overall length. OEM Kohler part #
230078-S. $11.68 each, plus shipping & handling. Not available
in aftermarket. L |
 Throttle Link for Kohler
flathead cast iron block Magnum engine model M8 with 3/16" hole in governor
and throttle levers. 2-1/2" overall length. OEM Kohler part # 25 079 01-S.
$4.53 each, plus shipping & handling. Not available in
aftermarket. L |
 New Style Throttle Link
for Carter or Kohler and Walbro carburetors used on Kohler engine models
K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 flatheads, K361 with 3/16" hole in
governor lever and ball on throttle lever. Fits Carter or Kohler #26, #28,
#30 or Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors without ball integrated with
throttle lever. 2-3/4" overall length. Link. 2-7/8" overall length. OEM Kohler
part # 47 079 11-S. $2.79 each, plus shipping & handling. Not
available in aftermarket. L |
 New Style Throttle Linkage
Kit for Kohler Magnum opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engine models KT17,
KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, M18 and M20 with 3/16" hole in governor
and throttle levers. Includes two nylon bushings. Most commonly used linkage
on these model engines.
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 Throttle Linkage Push-On
Retaining Nuts/Clips for Kohler engine models MV16, MV18, MV120 and certain
aluminum block Kohler engines with .080" diameter throttle linkages. Discontinued
from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # 25 141 03-S. NOTE: These parts are
very tiny. Use caution when handling.
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 3/16" E-Clip (Retainer) for
Early Style Throttle Rod (Linkage) used on Kohler engine models K241, K301,
K330/K331, K321, K341 and K361 with early style throttle link/rod.
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 Early Style Throttle Rod
(Linkage) for Kohler engine models K241, K301, K330/K331, K321, K341 and
K361. OEM Kohler part # 235277-S.
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 New 3/16" Throttle Ball Joint
w/Integrated Ball/Threaded Stud for Kohler engine models K241, K301, K330/K331,
K321, K341 and K361 with early style throttle link/rod. 10-32 UNF (fine thread)
male and female threads. Fits Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHG
#52, #60, #64 carburetors without ball integrated with throttle lever. Can
also be used on mini rods, hot rods, race cars, etc. 10-32 UNF (fine thread)
male and female threads. NOTE: Apply motor oil inside ball joint to reduce
wear and for smoother throttle operation.
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 Early Style Throttle Quick
Disconnect/Snap-On Ball Joint Body. Fits Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 and
Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors with ball on throttle lever. Can also
be used on mini rods, hot rods, race cars, etc. 10-32 UNF (fine thread) female
threads and accepts 1/4" diameter ball. NOTE: Apply motor oil inside ball
joint body to reduce wear and for smoother throttle operation. Discontinued
from Kohler. L Replaces Kohler part # 45 208
03-S.
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 Throttle Ball w/Threaded
Stud for Quick Disconnect/Snap-On Ball Joint Body above
È used on Kohler engine models K241,
K301, K321, K341 and K361. . Fits Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 and Walbro
WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors with 3/16" hole in throttle lever. 1/4" diameter
ball x 10-32 UNF (fine thread) threads. Includes nut and lock washer. Can
also be used on mini rods, hot rods, race cars, etc. NOTE: Apply motor
oil inside ball joint to reduce wear and for smoother throttle operation.
Discontinued from Kohler. L Kohler part # 48
194 01-S. Replaced with Kohler part # 237130-S (ball joint w/integrated ball).
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 Quick Disconnect/Snap-On
Throttle Ball Joint Assembly for Carter or Kohler and Walbro carburetors
used on Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321, K341 and K361 with 3/16" hole
in throttle lever. 10-32 UNF (fine thread) male and female threads. Fits
Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors without
ball integrated with throttle lever. Can also be used on mini rods, hot rods,
race cars, etc. NOTE: Apply motor oil inside ball joint body to reduce
wear and for smoother throttle operation.
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 Early Style Throttle Rod
(Linkage) with Quick Disconnect/Snap-On Ball Joint and E-Clip Assembly for
Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321, K341 and K361. Commonly used on K-series
AQS (Quiet Line) engines. Assembled with Kohler part #'s 235277-S (rod),
X-70-3 (nut), 45 208 03-S (ball joint body) and 235278-S (e-clip). Most parts
discontinued from Kohler.
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 Snap-On Throttle/Choke Cable
Clip (Clamp). Use to secure throttle or choke cable conduit to extended OEM
Kohler angled bracket on various Kohler engine models K141, K161, K181, K241,
K301, K321, K341, M10, M12, M14, M16, K482, K532 and K582. OEM Kohler part
# 235603-S. $4.80 each, plus shipping & handling. |
  Dual Conduit Throttle/Choke Cable Clamps. Can be used instead
of clamp above for better security. Use to secure one or two 3/16" or 7/32"
diameter cable conduit(s) to throttle or choke bracket. Each made of heavy
gauge zinc-plated steel.
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  Loop-Type Cable/Wire/Hose Clamps. Use to secure throttle or
choke cables, or for safe routing of electrical wire(s), battery cable, small
remote fuel primer hose or bundle of wires along frame. Each requires 3/16"
mounting screw.
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 Solid Throttle Wire/Stranded
Throttle Cable Swivel Kits. Use to secure solid throttle wire to speed control
bracket for a stock/governored engine or to secure stranded throttle cable
to throttle lever on carburetor for a competition pulling engine. Each kit
includes wire swivel, screw and friction washer, and require a 15/64" / 6mm
hole.
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 Speed Control Brackets.
Each fits various 10-16hp Kohler engines, depending on application.
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 Universal-Fit Replacement
Choke or Throttle Control Knob/Handle. Made of durable plastic. Replace missing
knob/handle for more comfortable operation of the in-dash or panel-mounted
choke or throttle cable control. Push-on or use small hammer to install.
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  Lever-Action Solid Wire Remote Throttle Control Cable Assemblies.
Side mount. Fits Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 122, 123,
124, 125, 126, 127 and 147.
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 Push/Pull Solid Wire Remote
Choke Control Cable Assemblies for all narrow frame Cub Cadet garden tractors.
Choke Cable Control Assembly. Fits: 580, 582, 1604 and 1606. OEM Cub Cadet part # 746-3004. Discontinued from Cub Cadet and not available in aftermarket. |
  Universal High Quality Foot/Gas Pedal Kit. Includes
48" (commonly used) sliding stranded inner cable x 43" metal conduit housing
and housing clamp. $55.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Heavy Duty High Quality Replacement Throttle Control Cable Assemblies for Universal Foot/Gas Throttle Pedal Assembly.
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  Professional Foot Pedal-Operated Spring-Return Throttle Control
Kits for Governored Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16
and K361 in Stock Competition Pulling Tractors, Go-Karts, Recreational Vehicles,
Snowmobiles,
King Midget micro cars (Kohler engines in King Midget cars
originally come from the factory with no governor; governor components must
be installed in engine for this kit to work), etc. If engine RPMs are set
correctly (4,000±), this setup will prevent over-revving of the engine,
which could cause connecting rod breakage and possibly damage or destroy
the engine block. NOTE: Kohler AQS "Quiet Line" engines will need a different
governor spring and lever for this kit to work. And hole in throttle swivel
w/locking screw may need to be enlarged to 5/64" to accommodate inner stranded
cable. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept
no advertised copycat products of this kind.
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Tachometers, Governor Components, and Camshafts - Top of page | Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any of these parts or services.
 High Quality Inductive
Handheld Small Engine Wireless Tachometer. A tachometer is required in
setting the correct RPMs (normally 3,200 or 3,600 maximum for small engines)
of an engine to prevent from over-revving and possible damage to the engine
or dangerous flywheel explosion. Very accurate. For gas/spark ignite engines
only. Works with magneto and battery-powered ignition systems. Very accurate.
This handheld analog tachometer works great for checking/setting the RPM
on various small engines in the shop, and/or for checking/setting the RPM
[tech] on stock governored competition pulling engines. Hold sensor (antenna)
close to spark plug wire for reading. Operates off a self-contained replaceable
9 volt battery. Has built-in battery voltage check. Reads up to 5,000 RPM
on the low scale, and 15,000 RPM on the high scale.
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 High Quality Inductive Small
Engine Tachometer/Hour Meter. A tachometer is required in setting the
correct RPMs (normally 3,200 or 3,600 maximum for small engines) of an engine
to prevent over-revving and possible damage to the engine or dangerous flywheel
explosion. Very accurate. Can be hand-held to temporarily set engine RPM
or can be surface-mounted and secured with two screws. mounted to monitor
engine RPM at all times. Large 3/8 inch LCD display. Works with all spark
ignition engines by selecting engine type using S1 and S2 buttons. Works
with magneto and battery-powered ignition systems. If tachometer does
not turn on automatically as soon as engine starts, press and hold the two
buttons at the same time. Instructions included. Tachometer reads up
to 99,999 RPM. Hour meter reads up to 9999:59 hours/minutes then resets to
Zero. Programmable maintenance hour setting with service icon, a reminder
when to change oil or other service. Can be manually reset to Zero hours.
Programmable maintenance hour setting with service icon, a reminder when
to change oil or other service. Easy installation: Single wire wraps around
spark plug wire and secured with two supplied nylon zip-ties. No wire terminal
connections required. Has built-in battery rated up to 4 years. Sealed unit;
weather and water resistant. Dimensions: 2" wide x 1-3/4" depth x 3/4" height.
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 High Quality Digital
Tachometer/Proximity Sensor Kits. A tachometer is required in setting
the correct RPMs (normally 3,200 or 3,600 maximum for small engines) of an
engine to prevent from over-revving and possible damage to the engine or
dangerous flywheel explosion. Choice of
RED,
GREEN or
BLUE numeric display. Will work with
single- or twin-cylinder small engines or multi-cylinder automotive engines,
gas or diesel. Displays RPMs as soon as engine cranks over to start. Displays
up to 9,999 RPM. Very accurate. Tachometer returns to zero [0000] when power
(ignition) is turned off. Works with magneto (with a battery to power the
proximity sensor and tachometer) and battery-powered ignition systems. Can
be used for lawn & garden equipment or competition pulling engines. Designed
to be permanently mounted to monitor engine RPM at all times. Tachometer
can be in-dash or panel-mounted. This precision digital tachometer operates
with external power and on the same principle as my
crank- or flywheel-trigger
ignition systems with a proximity sensor to detect the target, which
can be a small ferrous steel screw or pin, or magnet in a rotating disc on
the crankshaft or on/in flywheel. A sturdy steel or aluminum bracket will
need to be fabricated by customer to mount the sensor in close proximity
of the detector/trigger target. Set air gap/clearance at .010"-.188". Tachometer
works with 8-24 volts DC, proximity sensor works with 6-36 volts DC. Dimensions
for mounting hole for tachometer: 3" wide x 1-17/32" wide. Tachometer measures
1" in depth. Dimensions of proximity sensor: 15/32" diameter x 1-3/8" thread
length. Wiring Instructions: #1 wire on tachometer connects to brown wire
on proximity sensor and ignition switch (12 volt power), #2 wire on tachometer
connects to blue wire on proximity sensor and engine/chassis ground (battery
negative (–) post), and #5 wire on tachometer connects to black wire
on (either) proximity sensor. Wires #3 and #4 connects to nothing. Wiring
is the same for the hall effect and inductive proximity sensors. Some proximity
sensors have an LED (Light Emitting Diode) on the rear of unit. If the proximity
sensor is wired incorrectly, the LED will illuminate within the target. Cannot
be wired in conjunction with the Dynatek Dyna S or PerTronix Ignitor ignition
modules. This tachometer must be wired separately or wiring can be integrated
with my
crank
trigger ignition system that use a proximity sensor.
|
 Nylon Governor Gear Assemblies
for general lawn and garden work. Also suitable for 4,000± RPM competition
pulling engines. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181/M8, K241/M10,
K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series
II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Not available in aftermarket.
L
|
 Nylon Governor Gear Assemblies
designed specifically for Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14
and K341/M16 used with a generator and/or welding unit. Has offset
flyweights. Maintains engine RPM at a more steady pace and recovers engine
RPM quickly when under a load. Also works great for a 4,000± RPM competition
pulling engine. Not available in aftermarket.
L
|
 Cast Iron Governor Gear
Assembly. Recommended for high RPM or
wide
open throttle competition pulling engines. Will not explode like the
nylon governor gears sometimes do. (Kohler never made a steel governor gear.)
Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181/M8, K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14,
K341/M16, KT17/KT17 Series II, KT19/KT19 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20
and MV20.
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 Governor Stop Pin. Retains
governor gear on stub shaft. Replace worn or damaged governor stop pin. Not
available in aftermarket. L
|
Thrust
Washers for Governor Gears. A thrust washer is required to prevent the
governor gear from wearing against the engine block when the governor is
under full pressure from the engine running at higher rpms. Many people are
not aware of this small, thin washer and it usually falls out and gets lost
while cleaning inside the block. Lubricate the governor stub shaft and thrust
washer with motor oil or automotive chassis lube before reinstalling to prevent
the governor gear from wearing until the crankcase oil reaches these areas.
Each measures 3/8" i.d. x 5/8" o.d.
|
 Governor Gear Stub Shafts
for Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8. Dimensions of each
part below: 3/8" diameter x .625" length. Each is press-fit into block.
NOTE: Drive in the stub shaft until .345" (11/32") protrudes from the
block.
Governor Gear Stub Shafts for Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16, K361 and all KT-series and Magnum opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engines. Dimensions: 3/8" diameter x 7/8" length. Each is press-fit into block. NOTE: Drive in each stub shaft until .345" (11/32") protrudes from the block.
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 1-1/8" Steel Welch Plugs
to block access to governor gear stub shaft. Concave/dish-shaped, not cup-shaped.
Expands and flattens out with medium size ball peen hammer when installed
in counterbore hole with
clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant.
|
 Governor Cross Shafts for
Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161 and K181/M8. New shaft includes thrust
washer. Steel spacer for this shaft (part # 25 112 17-S) no longer available
from Kohler. The lever on these rarely break off. NOTE: Before installing,
apply clean motor oil, gear oil or lubricating grease on shaft for smooth
governor action and less wear to shaft and/or bushing. OEM Kohler part
# 230540-S.
 Governor Cross Shafts for Kohler
engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361. New shaft
includes steel spacer. NOTE: The lever on these sometimes break off. So
it'll be a good idea to weld the lever to the shaft. And the entire engine
must be completely disassembled to replace this part. And before installing,
apply clean motor oil, gear oil or lubricating grease on shaft for smooth
governor action and less wear to shaft and/or bushing. OEM Kohler part
# A-235256-S.
|
 Governor Cross Shaft End
Bearing (Tiny Steel Bushing). Fits all older Kohler K-series single cylinder
cast iron block engines, except later K-series and all Magnum engines with
blind hole machined into block for end of governor cross shaft. OEM Kohler
part # 234866-S.
|
  Governor Cross Shaft Bushings with or without a snug-fitting
neoprene rubber O-ring or rubber lip oil seal installed in machined counterbore
to prevent dust and dirt/debris from wearing the bushing and/or shaft and
prevent messy film of oil on outside of engine. Seal fits snug in bushing
and on shaft, and has no effect with operation of governor whatsoever. WHY
THIS IS IMPORTANT: Vacuum within the engine crankcase created by the upward
stroke of the piston draws in air, along with dust, dirt/debris through the
bushing/shaft, and then pressure created by the downward stroke of the piston
blows out a fine mist of oil through the bushing/shaft. Overtime, the dust,
dirt/debris cause the bushing (and sometimes the shaft, too) to wear, which
also leaves an oily mess on the outside of the engine. An ingenious and
innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this improved
product or offer this type of service.
 Governor Cross Shaft Bushing
with 7/32" shaft/hole for Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161 and
K181 w/specification # 30100-30848 and various M8 engines with V-shaped/coiled
governor spring under bushing. NOTE: When ordering, please specify
engine model and specification numbers. When removing bushing, use caution
not to drop the governor cross shaft down inside the crankcase! And before
installing bushing, apply clean motor oil, gear oil or lubricating grease
on shaft less wear to shaft, seal and/or bushing, and smooth throttle
action.
 Governor Cross Shaft Bushing
with 7/32" shaft/hole for Kohler engine model K181 w/specification #
301000-301045, and various M8 engines with coiled extension governor spring.
NOTE: When ordering, please specify engine model and specification
numbers. When removing bushing, use caution not to drop the governor
cross shaft down inside the crankcase! And before installing bushing, apply
clean motor oil, gear oil or lubricating grease on shaft less wear to shaft,
seal and/or bushing, and smooth throttle action.
 Governor Cross Shaft Bushing
with 1/4" shaft/hole for Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14,
K341/M16 and K361. NOTE: When removing bushing, use caution not to drop
the governor cross shaft down inside the crankcase! And before installing
bushing, apply clean motor oil, gear oil or lubricating grease on shaft less
wear to shaft, seal and/or bushing, and smooth throttle action.
|
Internal Engine Rebuild Parts for Kohler K-Series and Magnum Engines - Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any of these parts or services. | Top of page
 Cylinder head
gasket for Kohler flathead engine models K90/K91. Approximately .050" compressed
thickness. Doesn't need to be retorqued again once hot.
Click or tap here for cylinder head bolt torque
specs. Included in complete engine rebuild gasket set below
Ê.
|
 Cylinder head gasket for
Kohler K-series and Magnum flathead engine models K141, K160/K161, K181 and
M8. Approximately .050" compressed thickness. Doesn't need to be retorqued
again once hot. Click or tap here for cylinder head
bolt torque specs. Included in complete engine rebuild gasket set below
Ê.
|
 Cylinder head gasket for
Kohler K-series and Magnum flathead engine models K241/M10, K301/M12 and
K321/M14. Approximately .050" compressed thickness. Doesn't need to be retorqued
again once hot. Click or tap here for cylinder head
bolt torque specs. Included in complete engine rebuild gasket set below
Ê.
|
 Cylinder head gasket for
Kohler K-series and Magnum flathead engine models K341/M16. Approximately
.050" compressed thickness. Doesn't need to be retorqued again once hot.
Click or tap here for cylinder head bolt torque
specs. Included in complete engine rebuild gasket set below
Ê.
|
 Cylinder head gasket for
Kohler K-series engine model K361. Approximately .050" compressed thickness
with steel fire ring. Doesn't need to be retorqued again once hot.
Click or tap here for cylinder head bolt torque
specs. Included in complete engine rebuild gasket set below
Ê. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces
Kohler part # 45 052 02-S and Cub Cadet/MTD part # KH-45-052-02-S.
|
 Cylinder Head Gasket for Tecumseh
engine models VH80, HH80, VH100 and HH100. Approximately .050" compressed
thickness. Doesn't need to be retorqued again once hot. Tecumseh part # 32000B.
|
 Cylinder head gasket for
Kohler KT-series and Magnum opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engine models
MV16, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20.
Approximately .050" compressed thickness. Doesn't need to be retorqued again
once hot. Click or tap here for cylinder head bolt
torque specs. Included in complete engine rebuild gasket set below
Ê.
|
 Cylinder head gasket for
Kohler opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engine models K482, K532 and K582.
Approximately .050" compressed thickness. Doesn't need to be retorqued again
once hot. Click or tap here for cylinder head bolt
torque specs. Included in complete engine rebuild gasket set below
Ê.
|
 Crankcase Breather
Gaskets for Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161 and K181. Included in complete
engine rebuild gasket sets below Ê. 230048-S
will also fit Kohler opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engine models MV16,
KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20 with
center cut out (3 gaskets required).
|
|
  Inner and Outer Crankcase Breather Assembly Gaskets for Kohler
engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K330/K331, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361.
Included in complete engine rebuild gasket sets below.
|
|
 Cam Gear Cover
Gaskets for Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and
K361. Included in complete engine rebuild gasket sets below
Ê. Not available in aftermarket.
L
|
|
    Expansion Cup Plug or Metal Cover Plate for blocking off oil
dipstick tube hole on starter side of engine block on various Kohler engine
models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 when the cam gear
cover type of oil dipstick tube is used.
|
|
 Oil pan gasket
for Kohler engine models K90/K91 (OEM Kohler part # 220157-S) is no longer
available separately, except in complete engine rebuild gasket set below
Ê. |
|
 Oil pan gasket
for Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8. Unlike some 10-16hp
engines, the K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8 Kohler engines are wide base blocks.
Included in complete engine rebuild gasket set.
|
|
 .030" Thickness
Gasket for Narrow Base Block/Oil Pan Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321
and K341 with a narrow cast aluminum or cast iron oil pan. Included in complete
engine rebuild gasket set below Ê.
Please specify if you have a wide or narrow base block or oil pan.
Click or tap here to determine
if your engine is a wide or narrow base block.
|
|
 .060" Thickness
Gasket for Narrow Block/Oil Pan Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321 and
K341 with a pressed steel sheet metal oil pan. Not included in complete engine
rebuild gasket set below Ê. Please
specify if you have a wide or narrow base block or oil pan.
Click or tap here to determine
if your engine is a wide or narrow base block.
|
|
 .030" Thickness
Wide Base Block/Oil Pan Gasket for Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12,
K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361. Included in complete engine rebuild gasket set
below Ê. Please specify if you
have a wide or narrow base block or oil pan.
Click or tap here to determine
if your engine is a wide or narrow base block.
|
|
 Oil pan gasket
for Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582. Included in complete engine
rebuild gasket set.
|
|
  Bearing Plate Shim Gaskets to Set Crankshaft End-Play/Clearance
for Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161 and K181. Included in complete engine
rebuild gasket set below Ê. NOTE:
These gaskets can also be used on the Kohler M8 engine by applying
clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant where the cam pin is
to prevent an oil leak. And several gaskets of each may be required to obtain
correct crankshaft end-play/clearance. Please specify the thickness you need.
Not available in aftermarket. L
|
|
  Bearing Plate Shim Gaskets to Set Crankshaft
End-Play/Clearance for Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321, K341 and K361.
Included in complete engine rebuild gasket set below
Ê. NOTE: These gaskets can also be
used on the Kohler M10, M12, M14 and M16 engines by applying
clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant where the cam pin is
to prevent an oil leak. And several gaskets of each may be required to obtain
correct crankshaft end-play/clearance. Please specify the thickness you need.
Not available in aftermarket. L
|
|
 Closure Plate
Gasket for Kohler engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II,
M18 and M20. NOTE: If engine originally came with a gasket, reinstall
a new gasket to maintain correct crankshaft end-play/clearance. But if engine
originally came with silicone sealant only, apply silicone instead of a gasket
to maintain correct crankshaft end-play/clearance. Download and refer to
Kohler service manuals
TP-2043-A (KT17, KT17
Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II) or
TP-2204-B (M18 and M20)
for more information. (PDF files.) Kohler engine models MV16, MV18 and
MV20 do not use a gasket. These use silicone sealant instead. Not available
in aftermarket. L
|
|
 Crankshaft
Oil Seals for Kohler engine models K90/K91. Each included in complete engine
rebuild gasket set below Ê. IMPORTANT:
Apply clean motor oil, gear oil or lubricating grease in lip of seal before
installing to keep seal lubricated and cool until crankcase oil can reach
it. With no prior lubrication, the dry rubber will get hot from friction
and burn away, causing an oil leak.
|
|
| Complete Engine Rebuild Gasket Sets w/Oil Seals | [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website] | |
 Complete engine rebuild
gasket sets w/oil seals for Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161 and K181.
NOTE: These gasket sets can also be used on the Kohler M8 engine by applying
clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant where the cam pin is
to prevent an oil leak.
|
 Complete engine rebuild
gasket sets w/oil seals for Kohler K-series engine models K241, K301 and
K321. NOTE: These gasket sets can also be used on the Kohler M10, M12
and M14 engines by applying
clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant where the cam pin is
to prevent an oil leak.
|
 Complete engine rebuild
gasket sets w/oil seals for Kohler K-series engine model K341. NOTE: These
gasket sets can also be used on the Kohler M16 engine by applying
clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant where the cam pin is
to prevent an oil leak.
|
 Complete engine rebuild
gasket sets w/oil seals and valve stem
seals for Kohler K-series and Magnum opposed (flathead) twin cylinder
engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18,
M20 and MV20.
|
 Complete engine rebuild
gasket set w/oil seals for Kohler K-series model K361 cast iron block single
cylinder OHV engine. High quality aftermarket. Discontinued from Kohler.
Replaces Kohler part # 45 755 06-S.
|
 Complete engine rebuild
gasket set w/oil seals for Kohler opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engine
models K482, K532 and K582. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part
# 48 755 33-S.
|
| More parts to be added later. If you need something that's not listed here, please contact A-1 Miller's and I'll see if I can get it at a reasonable price. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any of the above È parts. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website] | |
New Ring Sets, and Piston and Ring Set - Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any of these parts or services. | Top of page
NOTE: I sell individual engine parts only. Because with "complete" engine rebuild kits that others offer, they always sell you extra parts your engine don't need, and/or leave out parts your engine do need. Completely disassemble your engine to determine which parts your engine needs and if the cylinder in your block and crank journal needs machine work performed, then email me a list of parts. Include the engine's model and specification numbers, too.
 Kohler engine models
K90/K91 Ring Sets, and Piston with Rings (includes wrist pin, retaining clips).
Rings made of high grade cast iron for durability. IMPORTANT:
Check ring end gaps and piston thrust face for proper clearance
before installing to prevent rings from galling the cylinder wall when hot
and piston from seizing in the cylinder when hot.
Click or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in)
oils and procedure for rebuilt engines.
|
Kohler engine models
K141, K160 and early K161 Ring Sets, and Piston and Ring Sets (includes wrist
pin and retaining clips). These are for the small 2-7/8" size cylinder bore.
Cylinder can be bored to 2-15/16", and the bigger piston and rings below
can be used. Rings made of high grade cast iron for durability. IMPORTANT:
Check ring end gaps and piston thrust face for proper clearance
before installing to prevent rings from galling the cylinder wall when hot
and piston from seizing in the cylinder when hot.
Click or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in)
oils and procedure for rebuilt engines. Not available in aftermarket.
L
|
 Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K141, K160/K161,
K181 and M8 Ring Sets, and Piston and Ring Sets (includes wrist pin and retaining
clips). These are for the bigger 2-15/16" size cylinder bore. Rings made
of high grade cast iron for durability. IMPORTANT: Check ring
end gaps and piston thrust face for proper clearance before installing to
prevent rings from galling the cylinder wall when hot and piston from seizing
in the cylinder when hot. Click or tap here for
proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines.
|
Kohler K-series and Magnum
engine models K241, M10 and K482 Ring Sets, and Piston and Ring Sets (includes
wrist pin and retaining clips). (The K241, M10 and K482 engines use the
same piston and rings.) Priced per cylinder. Rings made of high
grade cast iron for durability. Compression
height is 1.63". Being the wrist pin is centered, these pistons can be
installed in either direction. IMPORTANT: Check ring end gaps
and piston thrust face for proper clearance before installing to prevent
rings from galling the cylinder wall when hot and piston from seizing in
the cylinder when hot. Click or tap here for proper
break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines.
|
Kohler K-series/Magnum models K301, M12 and K532 Ring Sets,
and Piston and Ring Sets (includes wrist pin and retaining clips). (The
K301, M12 and K532 engines use the same piston and rings.) Priced per
cylinder. Rings made of high grade cast iron for durability.
Compression height is 1.7". Being
the wrist pin is centered, these pistons can be installed in either direction.
IMPORTANT: Check ring end gaps and piston thrust face for proper
clearance before installing to prevent rings from galling the cylinder wall
when hot and piston from seizing in the cylinder when hot.
Click or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in)
oils and procedure for rebuilt engines.
|
Kohler K-series and Magnum models K321, M14 and K582 Ring
Sets, and Piston and Ring Sets (includes wrist pin and retaining clips).
(The K321, M14 and K582 engines use the same piston and rings.) Priced
per cylinder. Compression height is
1.7". Rings made of high grade cast iron for durability. And being
the wrist pin is centered, these pistons can be installed in either
direction. IMPORTANT: Check ring end gaps and piston
thrust face for proper clearance before installing to prevent rings from
galling the cylinder wall when hot and piston from seizing in the cylinder
when hot. Click or tap here for proper break-in
(wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines.
|
 Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K341, M16 and K361
Ring Sets, and Piston and Ring Sets (includes wrist pin and retaining clips).
(The K341, M16 and K361 engines use the same piston and rings.)
Compression height is 1.7". Rings
made of high grade cast iron for durability. Wrist pin is offset to
reduce piston slap. Therefore, piston installs with notch facing flywheel.
IMPORTANT: Check ring end gaps and piston thrust face for
proper clearance before installing to prevent rings from galling the cylinder
wall when hot and piston from seizing in the cylinder when hot.
Click or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in)
oils and procedure for rebuilt engines.
|
 Piston Wrist Pin Retainers
for 5/8" diameter wrist pins. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161,
K181, M8, KT17, KT17 Series II, MV16, M18 and MV18.
FYI - Snap ring retainers last longer than the OEM
Cir-Clips because there's more "wear area" around them due to the flat
area.
Piston Wrist Pin Retainers for 3/4" diameter wrist pins. Fits Kohler engine models KT19, KT19 Series II, M20 and MV20. FYI - Snap ring retainers last longer than the OEM Cir-Clips because there's more "wear area" around them due to the flat area.
Ring Sets Only and Cast Pistons
with Rings for Kohler flathead twin cylinder engine models KT17, KT17 Series
II, MV16, M18 and MV18. The KT17, KT17 Series II, MV16, M18 and MV18
pistons all have the same dimensions, same wrist pin hole size (.6247"-.6249")
and same compression height (1.125"), and accept the same rings. The only
difference is the KT17 and KT17 Series II pistons are cast aluminum, and
the MV16, M18 and MV18 pistons are forged, and made by Mahle. The KT-series
rings will also fit the Mahle pistons, the Mahle pistons are not available
for these engines. Priced per cylinder. To maintain engine balance and
reduce vibration, two sets of matching oversize piston and rings are
required. IMPORTANT: Check ring end gaps for proper
clearance before installing to prevent rings from galling the cylinder wall
when hot. Click or tap here for proper break-in
(wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines.
|
| NOTE: High-quality ring sets, pistons and piston/rings assemblies are also available for other makes and models of small gas engines. And the piston assemblies that's offered here will work with a stock connecting rod and crankshaft without the need for rebalancing. And always match a billet connecting rod of a certain length to an aftermarket piston (Arias, JE, etc.) that has the correct compression height. These two parts must be matched for the piston to come flush with the top of the engine block, or have a few thousands of an inch pop-out. If using a Kohler connecting rod, the compression height may not be correct with an aftermarket piston (Arias, JE, etc.) that has the wrong wrist pin offset. The same is true with a Kohler piston and a billet connecting rod of a the wrong length. You can find piston ring compressors on eBay. |
| NOTE: Complete engine rebuild kits are available, but a kit will cost more than if the parts were purchased separately. So please contact A-1 Miller's with a list of parts you need, and I'll get back to you with a total amount including shipping & handling. And if you need a part or parts that's not listed here or for other make and model of engines. Please contact A-1 Miller's and I'll see if I can get it at a reasonable price. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any of the above È parts or items. |
New and Used OEM and Aftermarket Replacement Connecting Rods - | Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any of these parts or services.
Upon installation of a connecting rod in a Kohler
engine, the oil hole in the cap face toward the camshaft! There's "match
marks" on both the rod and rod cap. They MUST be aligned or "matched up"
so the big end of the rod forms a perfect circle around the crank journal
when installed. Otherwise, if the cap is installed backwards, the "perfect
circle" will be oblong or "egg-shaped," which will bind on the crank journal.
And DO NOT over-tighten the rod bolts or nuts! If the threads strip out in
a rod, then perhaps a longer grade 8 fine thread bolt can be installed in
reverse to serve as a stud (the rod will need to be machined for head bolt
clearance) and use a grade 8 nut. If this cannot be done, then the rod is
scrap metal. |
 Connecting rods for Kohler
engine models K90/K91. Not available in aftermarket.
L NOTE: Crank journal must be reground
.010" undersize to match this rod. The alternative to using an undersize
rod is if a STD size or .010" undersize rod is in good condition, if the
matching-size crank journal isn't deeply scored and/or badly burnt, it can
be reground until it's perfectly round again and then if the original rod
also isn't deeply scored and/or badly burnt, it can be resized to fit to
odd-size undersize journal with the factory recommended .0025" oil clearance.
NOTE - The maximum a connecting rod can be resized to is .005" undersize.
If it's resized more than .005", being the big hole in the rod will be made
excessively oblong or egg-shaped, which will allow it to less bearing surface
contact around the crank journal after being resized, due to the centrifugal
force at 3,600 RPM, the big end of the rod could become elongated (metal
stretch) and might eventually knock and possibly break. IMPORTANT: To prevent
scoring of the rod when the engine is started for the first time, apply clean
motor oil, gear oil or lubricating grease or on crank journal before installing
rod. This will better protect the parts until crankcase oil reaches
them. IMPORTANT: Click or tap
here for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt
engines.
|
 New connecting rods for
Kohler K-series models K141, K160/K161cast iron block flathead engines. These
are plain aluminum bearing surface rods. Replaceable bearing inserts
are not available for these particular rods. 230519 embossed in beam section
on OEM Kohler rods. NOTE: Crank journal must be reground .010"
undersize to match this rod. The alternative to using an undersize rod is
if a STD size or .010" undersize rod is in good condition, if the matching-size
crank journal isn't deeply scored and/or badly burnt, it can be reground
so it's perfectly round again and then if the original rod also isn't deeply
scored and/or badly burnt, it can be resized to fit to odd-size undersize
journal with the factory recommended .0025" oil clearance. NOTE - The maximum
a connecting rod can be resized to is .005" undersize. If it's resized more
than .005", being the big hole in the rod will be made excessively oblong
or egg-shaped, which will allow it to less bearing surface contact around
the crank journal after being resized, due to the centrifugal force at 3,600
RPM, the big end of the rod could become elongated (metal stretch) and might
eventually knock and possibly break. IMPORTANT: To prevent scoring of the
rod when the engine is ran for the first time, apply clean motor oil, gear
oil or lubricating grease on crank journal before installing rod. This will
better protect the parts until crankcase oil reaches them.
IMPORTANT: Click or tap here for proper break-in
(wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines.
|
 New connecting rods for
Kohler K-series and Magnum models K181 and M8 cast iron block flathead engines.
These are plain aluminum bearing surface rods. Replaceable bearing inserts
are not available for these particular rods. NOTE: Crank journal
must be reground .010" undersize to match this rod. The alternative to using
an undersize rod is if a STD size or .010" undersize rod is in good condition,
if the matching-size crank journal isn't deeply scored and/or badly burnt,
it can be reground until it's perfectly round again and then if the original
rod also isn't deeply scored and/or badly burnt, it can be resized to fit
to odd-size undersize journal with the factory recommended .0025" oil clearance.
NOTE - The maximum a connecting rod can be resized to is .005" undersize.
If it's resized more than .005", being the big hole in the rod will be made
excessively oblong or egg-shaped, which will allow it to less bearing surface
contact around the crank journal after being resized, due to the centrifugal
force at 3,600 RPM, the big end of the rod could become elongated (metal
stretch) and might eventually knock and possibly break. IMPORTANT: To prevent
scoring of the rod when the engine is ran for the first time, apply clean
motor oil, gear oil or lubricating grease on crank journal before installing
rod. This will better protect the parts until crankcase oil reaches
them. IMPORTANT: Click or tap
here for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt
engines.
STD size for 1.1875" diameter crank journal. For "old style" K-series cast piston with wide wrist pin hole.
.010" undersize for 1.1775" diameter crank journal. For "old style" K-series cast piston with wide wrist pin hole.
For "new style" Mahle (Magnum) forged piston with wide wrist pin hole. (Strong rods.) Not available in aftermarket. L
|
 New connecting rods for
Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241/M10. Strong rods. Comes with
long dipper. These are plain aluminum bearing surface rods, but I can bore
rod and install STD size, .010", .020", .030" or .060" undersize replaceable
bearing inserts if
you wish. 5.558" length. NOTE: These rods can be bored for
installation of STD size, .010", .020",or .030" undersize bearing inserts,
and crank journal must be reground to match diameter of undersize bearing
inserts. Crank journal must be reground .010" undersize to match this rod.
The alternative to using an undersize rod is if a STD size or .010" undersize
rod is in good condition, if the matching-size crank journal isn't deeply
scored and/or badly burnt, it can be reground until it's perfectly round
again and then if the original rod also isn't deeply scored and/or badly
burnt, it can be resized to fit to odd-size undersize journal with the factory
recommended .0025" oil clearance. Bearing inserts cannot be used. NOTE -
The maximum a connecting rod can be resized to is .005" undersize. If it's
resized more than .005", being the big hole in the rod will be made excessively
oblong or egg-shaped, which will allow it to less bearing surface contact
around the crank journal after being resized, due to the centrifugal force
at 3,600 RPM, the big end of the rod could become elongated (metal stretch)
and might eventually knock and possibly break. IMPORTANT: To prevent scoring
of the rod when the engine is ran for the first time, apply clean motor oil,
gear oil or lubricating grease on crank journal before installing rod. This
will better protect the parts until crankcase oil reaches them.
IMPORTANT: Click or tap here for proper break-in
(wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines.
|
 New "one color" connecting
rods for Kohler K-series and Magnum models K301/M12 and K321/M14 cast iron
block flathead engines. Comes with long dipper. These are plain aluminum
bearing surface rods, but I can bore rod and install STD size, .010", .020"
or .030" undersize replaceable
bearing inserts if you wish.
5.3" length. NOTE: These rods can be bored for installation
of STD size, .010", .020",or .030" undersize bearing inserts, and crank journal
must be reground to match diameter of undersize bearing inserts. Crank journal
must be reground .010" undersize to match this rod. The alternative to using
an undersize rod is if a STD size or .010" undersize rod is in good condition,
if the matching-size crank journal isn't deeply scored and/or badly burnt,
it can be reground until it's perfectly round again and then if the original
rod also isn't deeply scored and/or badly burnt, it can be resized to fit
to odd-size undersize journal with the factory recommended .0025" oil clearance.
Bearing inserts cannot be used. NOTE - The maximum a connecting rod can be
resized to is .005" undersize. If it's resized more than .005", being the
big hole in the rod will be made excessively oblong or egg-shaped, which
will allow it to less bearing surface contact around the crank journal after
being resized, due to the centrifugal force at 3,600 RPM, the big end of
the rod could become elongated (metal stretch) and might eventually knock
and possibly break. IMPORTANT: To prevent scoring of the rod when the engine
is ran for the first time, apply clean motor oil, gear oil or lubricating
grease on crank journal before installing rod. This will better protect the
parts until crankcase oil reaches them. IMPORTANT:
Click or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in)
oils and procedure for rebuilt engines.
|
 New "one color" connecting
rods for Kohler K-series and Magnum K341/M16 cast iron block engines. These
rods have a narrow wrist pin hole. Comes with long dipper. These are plain
aluminum bearing surface rods, but I can bore rod and install STD size, .010",
.020" or .030" undersize replaceable
bearing inserts if you wish.
5.3" length. NOTE: All 16hp rods, K-series or Magnum, have
a narrow wrist pin hole. Also, these rods can be bored for installation of
STD size, .010", .020",or .030" undersize bearing inserts, and crank journal
must be reground to match diameter of undersize bearing inserts. Crank journal
must be reground .010" undersize to match this rod. The alternative to using
an undersize rod is if a STD size or .010" undersize rod is in good condition,
if the matching-size crank journal isn't deeply scored and/or badly burnt,
it can be reground until it's perfectly round again and then if the original
rod also isn't deeply scored and/or badly burnt, it can be resized to fit
to odd-size undersize journal with the factory recommended .0025" oil clearance.
Bearing inserts cannot be used. NOTE - The maximum a connecting rod can be
resized to is .005" undersize. If it's resized more than .005", being the
big hole in the rod will be made excessively oblong or egg-shaped, which
will allow it to less bearing surface contact around the crank journal after
being resized, due to the centrifugal force at 3,600 RPM, the big end of
the rod could become elongated (metal stretch) and might eventually knock
and possibly break. IMPORTANT: To prevent scoring of the rod when the engine
is ran for the first time, apply clean motor oil, gear oil or lubricating
grease on crank journal before installing rod. This will better protect the
parts until crankcase oil reaches them. IMPORTANT:
Click or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in)
oils and procedure for rebuilt engines.
|
 ALCOA connecting rods
for Kohler K-series engine model K361. Also fits the K301/M12, K321/M14 and
K341/M16 engines. Extremely strong rods. These rods have a narrow wrist pin
hole for the Mahle (Magnum), K341 and K361 pistons. Comes with long dipper.
These are plain aluminum bearing surface rods, but I can bore rod and install
STD size, .010", .020" or .030" undersize replaceable
bearing inserts if you wish.
5.3" length. NOTE: These rods can be bored for installation
of STD size, .010", .020",or .030" undersize bearing inserts, and crank journal
must be reground to match diameter of undersize bearing inserts. Crank journal
must be reground .010" undersize to match this rod. The alternative to using
an undersize rod is if a STD size or .010" undersize rod is in good condition,
if the matching-size crank journal isn't deeply scored and/or badly burnt,
it can be reground until it's perfectly round again and then if the original
rod also isn't deeply scored and/or badly burnt, it can be resized to fit
to odd-size undersize journal with the factory recommended .0025" oil clearance.
Bearing inserts cannot be used. NOTE - The maximum a connecting rod can be
resized to is .005" undersize. If it's resized more than .005", being the
big hole in the rod will be made excessively oblong or egg-shaped, which
will allow it to less bearing surface contact around the crank journal after
being resized, due to the centrifugal force at 3,600 RPM, the big end of
the rod could become elongated (metal stretch) and might eventually knock
and possibly break. IMPORTANT: To prevent scoring of the rod when the engine
is started for the first time, apply clean motor oil, gear oil or lubricating
grease on crank journal before installing rod. This will better protect the
parts until crankcase oil reaches them. IMPORTANT:
Click or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in)
oils and procedure for rebuilt engines.
|
 Use the items below to
block-off/plug the drilled oil galley holes in the Kohler Magnum M18 or M20
crankshaft when replacing either of these crankshafts in a Kohler first design
KT17 or KT19 engine to maintain proper oil pressure through the camshaft.
|
 New connecting rods for
Kohler KT-series and Magnum engine models MV16, KT17, KT17 Series II, M18,
MV18 with a wrist pin hole diameter of .625" and STD crank journal diameter
of 1.3733"/1.3738". NOTE: Crank journal must be reground .010"
undersize to match this rod. And new rods for model KT19 is no longer available.
L Also, the KT17 cylinders
are different than the M18 cylinders because the OEM Kohler KT17 rods are
narrower than the M18 rods. To make the KT17 cylinders work with M18 rods,
grind away (notch out) the lower portion of the cylinders until the rods
clear. Or acquire a couple of M18 cylinders that's in good condition. (The
OEM [US] manufacturers are phasing out many parts for flathead engines due
to EPA smog emissions. But some parts may still be available in aftermarket.)
The alternative to using undersize rods - If STD size or .010" undersize
rods are in good condition, the matching crank journals can be reground until
they're perfectly round again then if the original rod(s) isn't deeply scored
and/or badly burnt, it can be resized to fit to odd-size undersize journal(s)
with the factory recommended .0025" oil clearance. NOTE - The maximum a
connecting rod can be resized to is .005" undersize. If it's resized more
than .005", being the big hole in the rod will be made excessively oblong
or egg-shaped, which will allow it to less bearing surface contact around
the crank journal after being resized, due to the centrifugal force at 3,600
RPM, the big end of the rod could become elongated (metal stretch) and might
eventually knock and possibly break. IMPORTANT: To prevent scoring of the
rods when the engine is ran for the first time, apply clean motor oil, gear
oil or lubricating grease on crank journal before installing rod. This will
better protect the parts until crankcase oil reaches them.
IMPORTANT: Click or tap here for proper break-in
(wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines.
|
 (Updated 1/19/20) New
OEM connecting rods for Kohler engine models K482, K532, K582 and K660/K662
are no longer available. However, with the K482, K532 and K582 crankshaft
rod journals reground to .010", .020" or .030" undersize, a connecting rod
that has a burnt or scored bearing surface can be bored out to make room
for matching .010", .020" or .030" undersize bearing inserts. The alternative
to using bearing inserts in a connecting rod - if the bearing surface of
a STD size or .010" undersize rod is in good condition and not badly scored
or burnt, the rod journal(s) can be reground and "cleaned up" until perfectly
round again, then the connecting rod can be resized (in a connecting rod
honing machine) to fit or match the odd-size undersize journal with the factory
recommended .0025" oil clearance. However, the maximum a connecting rod can
be resized to is .005" undersize. If it's resized more than .005", being
the big hole in the rod will be made excessively oblong or egg-shaped, which
will allow it to less bearing surface contact around the crank journal after
being resized, due to the centrifugal force at 3,600 RPM, the big end of
the rod could become elongated (metal stretch) and could eventually knock
and possibly break.
|
 Main Crankshaft Radial Ball
Bearings for Kohler K-series and Magnum cast iron block engine models K141,
K160/K161 and K181. Heat treated. These are specifically designed to provide
maximum performance through precise ball implement selection. Aftermarket
bearing packed with fresh grease from the factory. Dimensions: 1.18" i.d.
(30mm) x 2.44" (62mm) o.d. x .62" (16mm) width. See note below. NOTE:
If yours have more than .005" of play due to wear, or it feels rough or "rubbles"
when rotated by hand with motor oil applied, then it needs to be replaced.
FYI - All ball bearings have always been made to the metric dimensions.
Where applicable, the US and import manufacturers try to make them close
to the inch dimensions as possible.
8 Ball Main Crankshaft Radial
Bearings for Kohler K-series and Magnum cast iron block engine models K241/M10,
K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361. Heat treated material. These are
specifically designed to provide maximum performance through precise ball
implement selection. Works excellent for general lawn and garden engines
or high performance engines that run at high RPM or at
wide
open throttle. Bigger balls rotate freer and run cooler, which create
less rolling resistance and friction than a bearing with smaller balls.
Aftermarket bearing packed with fresh grease from the factory. Dimensions:
1.57" (40mm) i.d. x 3.54" o.d. (90mm) x .90" (23mm) width. See note below
Ê. NOTE: If yours have more than .005"
of play due to wear, or it feels rough or "rubbles" when rotated by hand
with motor oil applied, then it needs to be replaced. FYI - All ball
bearings have always been made to the metric dimensions. Where applicable,
the US and import manufacturers try to make them close to the inch dimensions
as possible.
NOTE: With the main bearings removed from an engine, and if all the oil is cleaned from the bearings, allowed to thoroughly dry, and when the bearings are spun by hand, and if the bearings isn't worn much or at all, they might feel "rough" and make a rattling sound. This rattling sound isn't necessarily because the bearing is worn. The noise is caused by the balls running dry on the races because there's no oil to separate them. They're simply making metal to metal contact. Try applying a small amount of motor oil to the balls/races then spin them. They should now be a lot quieter. The same thing will happen with new radial ball bearings. By the way - Most main bearings in a Kohler engine will wear extremely little, if any at all, and usually don't require replacing. Although some main bearings will wear (which is obvious), and need to be replaced. And excessively worn main bearings will make a rumbling noise and the engine will have a more than-usual-vibration. |
 Crankshaft Main Bearings
(Flanged Sleeve Bushings) for Kohler engine models MV16, KT17, KT17 Series
II, KT19, KT19 Series II, M18 MV18, M20 and MV20. NOTE: On these engines,
one main journal can be reground undersize if it's worn beyond specifications
(mostly likely the PTO end), and if the other is within specifications (most
likely the flywheel end), it can remain STD size. Not available in
aftermarket. L
|
 Crankshaft Main Bearings
(Sleeve Bushings) for Kohler opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engine models
K482, K532 and K582. Not available in aftermarket.
L
|
 Camshaft Bushing (Bearing)
for Kohler twin cylinder engine models K482, K532 and K582. Fits flywheel
end. NOTE: Bearing for the PTO end (part # 277039-S) is no longer available
from Kohler and not available in aftermarket.
L
|
 STD size, .010", .020"
or .030" undersize Replaceable Tri-Metal (Lead Alloy/Copper/Steel)
Bearing Inserts in Connecting
Rods for Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16, K361
M20 and MV20. Rods for the before mentioned engines can be bored and
notched to accept bearing inserts. Even severely burnt,
scored, or rods with a mismatched cap can be bored for installation of bearing
inserts. Only USA-made Clevite 77, Federal Mogul or Sealed Power
bearing inserts will be installed.
No low quality Chinese-made bearing inserts ever installed. All A-1 Miller
machined connecting rods include ground-out notches to prevent bearing rotation
in rod and drilled oil hole for proper lubrication. Please indicate diameter
of crank journal for size of bearing inserts. (STD
size, .010", .020", .030" or .060" undersizes.) Also, rods can be center-bored
for top of piston to come flush with deck, or bored .020"± offset for
a .020"± piston pop-out at no extra charge.
NOTE: If a crank journal is worn beyond specs or badly scored/burnt,it will need to be reground to the next undersize to match the appropriate size bearing inserts. And if you want A-1 Miller's to bore a rod for you, please let me know if you want the bearing insert centered in the bore of the rod (5.300" rod length; piston flush with top of block), offset .020" (5.320" rod length; safe to use with a milled OEM Kohler stock head and stock head gasket) or offset .060" (5.360" rod length; use with a non-milled OEM Kohler head and stock head gasket) to pop the piston out of the cylinder (see below Ê) to raise the compression and help improve airflow within the combustion chamber for more power and torque. The bearing inserts I install in Kohler 10-16hp flatheads and 18hp OHV K361 connecting rods can be used for general lawn and garden use, stock or high RPM competition pulling engines. The rod will need to be bored exactly 1.625" for correct bearing to journal oil clearance. NOTE: Being virtually all Kohler K241/M10 pistons come within .020"± from the top of the block, which lowers the compression ratio. (The factory made them this way for reasons unknown.) I prefer to bore the K241 10hp rods .020" offset so the piston will come flush with the top of the block. This will allow the engine to produce a little more power. It won't effect the longevity of the engine or cause any problems whatsoever. But sometimes with the .020" offset, the piston will pop out of the cylinder a few thousandths of an inch, which will still hurt nothing. And the bore can be offset .040" for a .020"± piston pop-out. FYI - Before I machine a rod for installation of bearing inserts, I use a metal "plug" alignment tool that I fabricated to precisely align the big hole of the connecting rod with the centerline of the spindle in my milling machine. Then while the plug is in the rod, I firmly clamp the rod to the milling machine table and after leaving the big hole centered or moving the table so many thousandths of an inch offset for piston pop-out, I lock the table so it won't move in any direction while boring the rod. But for reasons unknown, sometimes the cutting tool will bore the hole in the rod slightly off-center toward one of the bolts or studs. When this happens, I simply grind a small notch on the outside of each bearing shell so they'll clear the rod bolt. I've talked to other machinists who bore Kohler rods also about this and they tell A-1 Miller's sometimes the same thing happens to their rods. But as long as the outside of the bearing shells are notched for clearance of the bolt or stud, the off-center of the bearing inserts poses no problems whatsoever. And bearing inserts for the 10-16hp Kohler engines can be installed in Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582 STD size connecting rods, but the crank journals would need to be reground exactly to 1.500" to match the inside diameter of the bearing inserts when installed in the rods. And for your information, STD size crank journals for the K482, K532 and K582 engines measures 1.6245".
Narrow wrist pin width on 12hp or 14hp (old style) connecting rod for use
with K-series 16hp cast piston or "new style" Mahle (Magnum) forged pistons.
$20.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling. |
Cylinder Containment Strap Kit for Kohler 10-16hp K-series and Magnum Engines. Professionally made. This setup is easy to remove and reinstall when it comes time to freshen the engine. It looks nice and very strong. Prevents cylinder/crankcase separation (engine explosion) during cool weather when cylinder is bored thin for an excessively oversize piston. A must for methanol burning engines. NOTE: An additional 3/8" threaded hole may need to be made for mounting of brace on PTO end of block.
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| More parts to be added later. If you need something that's not listed here, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if I can get it at a reasonable price. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any of the above È parts or items. |
New and Used Refaced Valves and Valve Guides - | Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any of these parts or services.
 Valves for Kohler engine models
KT90/KT91. Head diameter: 15/16". Not available in aftermarket.
L
NOTE: Before lapping in the valves, it'll be best to have the valve seats reground or cut so they'll be in correct alignment with the centerline of the valve guides. Otherwise, the valves may not make a full 360º contact with the seats, and the engine will lose compression, be hard to start, lose power and possibly make a popping sound through the carburetor or out the exhaust. And be sure to set the clearances correctly, too. And if the end of the valve stem is accidentally ground too short, it can be made long again by building up welding with a MIG or TIG welder, then ground to the correct valve clearance.
Intake Valves for Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161 and K181/M8. Dimensions: head diameter: 1-3/8"; overall length: 4.065"; stem diameter: .309"; 45º face angle.
NOTE: Before lapping in valves, it'll be best to have the valve seats reground or cut so they'll be in correct alignment with the centerline of the valve guides. Otherwise, the valves may not make a full 360º contact with the seats, and the engine will lose compression, be hard to start, lose power and possibly make a popping sound through the carburetor or out the exhaust. And be sure to set the clearances correctly, too. And if the end of the valve stem is accidentally ground too short, it can be made long again by building up welding with a MIG or TIG welder, then ground to the correct valve clearance.
1-3/8" Diameter Intake Valves for Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16, K482, K532 and K582. Dimensions - Head diameter: 1-3/8"; Length: 4.640"; Stem diameter: .3095"; Face angle: 45º.
1-3/8" Diameter Exhaust Valves for later model K321's/M14 (suffix "D" and later), K341/M16, K532 and K582 (for K582 after serial # 9165450). Dimensions - Head diameter: 1.373; Length: 4.639; Stem diameter: .3075; Face Angle: 45º.
NOTE: Before lapping in the valves, it's best to have the valve seats recut or reground so they'll be in correct alignment with the centerline of the valve guides and so the valve face will make a full 360º contact with the seat, or the valves will leak and the engine will lose compression, be hard to start, be low on power and possibly make a popping sound through the carburetor or out the exhaust. And be sure to set the clearances correctly, too.
Oversize Valves for High RPM Kohler Pulling Engines. Each can be used as intake valve for Kohler 10-16hp pulling engines, or as exhaust valve (with a 20%± bigger intake valve). Each has a 45º face angle for a 46º seat, but can be reground to 30º to match a 31º seat. OEM Kohler valve keepers/locks/collets and retainers can be used with these valves.
8mm (.315") Chucking Reamer. Use to enlarge valve guides for installation of oversize or aftermarket valves with an 8mm valve stem in Kohler engine models K361, KT19, KT19 Series II, M20 and MV20, or 1.720" oversize valve in 10-16hp Kohler engines. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
NOTE: Before lapping in valves, it's best to have the valve seats recut or reground so the angle will be in correct alignment with the centerline of the valve guides and so the valve face will make a full 360º contact with the seat, or the valves will leak and the engine will lose compression, be hard to start, be low on power and possibly make a popping sound through the carburetor or out the exhaust. And be sure to set the clearances correctly, too.
NOTE: Before lapping in the valves, it'll be best to have the valve seats recut or reground so they'll be in correct alignment with the centerline of the valve guides. Otherwise, the valves may not make a full 360º contact with the seats, and the engine will lose compression, be hard to start, lose power and possibly make a popping sound through the carburetor or out the exhaust. And be sure to set the clearances correctly, too. And if the end of the valve stem is accidentally ground too short, it can be made long again by building up welding with a MIG or TIG welder, then ground to the correct valve clearance.
è New valves for other makes and models of small engines are also available. |
| Valve Guides FYI -(FYI - All
valve guides are made of either cast iron or bronze, not steel. Cast iron
and bronze are very hard and porous metals. They absorb oil and lubricate
the valve stems for longer wear.)
[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
NOTE: The alternative to installing new replacement OEM-type valve guides is to have the old [worn] guides reamed for installation of thin-wall bronze sleeves/liners (bushings), which can be installed by a reputable automotive machine shop. Bronze valve guide sleeves/liners are a low-cost alternative to replacing the entire guide in most engines. Bronze also last longer than cast iron guides because bronze is harder material and it retains more oil for better lubrication of the valve stem.
 High Quality, High Speed Steel
5/16" (.3125") Chucking Reamer. Use to clean carbon deposits from used valve
guides or enlarge new guides for a 5/16" valve stem in flathead 7hp+ B&S,
Kohler, 8hp+ Tecumseh, etc. engines. $15.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. |
 Valve
Guide Removal and Installation Tool for use with virtually all flathead
block Kohler engines. IMPORTANT: The engine block could crack if guides
are removed or installed with a hydraulic press! Therefore, it's
best to use a big, heavy hammer to drive out the old guide into the valve
spring chamber and use the same hammer to install the new guide from inside
the valve pocket. Install new guides until flush with the port. Tool can
be used for OEM Kohler and aftermarket offset valve guides. Dimensions: .300"
pilot x 1/2" diameter x 5" overall length.
|
High Quality,
High Speed Steel Chucking Reamers. Precision ground to provide correct
stem to guide clearance. Will not allow valve stem to be too loose or too
tight in guide. When reaming guide, use an electric hand drill with plenty
of oil in guide. Before installing valve, apply motor oil on stem for lubrication
to reduce wear to guide and prevent valve from sticking.
[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
|
 Valve
Stem Seals. Required to prevent crankcase oil from draining down into
(OHV) or being suctioned into (flatheads) the combustion chamber through
the guide. Silicone rubber w/metal clamp. Dimensions: 5/16" i.d. (stem) x
.500" i.d. (guide) x .600" o.d. NOTE: Apply clean motor oil, gear oil
or lubricating grease on valve stem before inserting valve through seal to
provide lubrication of the stem, guide and seal. Dimensions: 5/16" i.d.
(stem) x .500" i.d. (guide) x .600" o.d.
|
 New-Style One-Piece Camshafts
for Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181 and Magnum M8. With ground
points lobe and ACR. IMPORTANT: To prevent seizing of the camshaft when
the engine is ran for the first time, apply clean motor oil, gear oil or
lubricating grease on cam pin before installing cam. This will better protect
the parts until crankcase oil reaches them. When reusing lifters,
roughen lifter faces with 600 grit sandpaper to produce a new wear pattern
and so the lifters will rotate slightly with every lift to prevent wear to
the cam lobes. And the K141, K160 and K161 cams can't be used in the K181
engine due to its longer stroke. ACR = automatic compression release.
OEM Kohler part #'s 41 010 05-S.
Camshafts for Kohler Magnum engine model M8, can also be used in the K-series K141, K160/K161, K181 engines with solid state ignition. No points lobe. With ACR. IMPORTANT: To prevent seizing of camshaft on pin when engine is ran for the first time, apply plenty of motor oil on cam pin and inside cam before installing cam in engine. This will better protect the parts until crankcase oil reaches them. OEM Kohler part # 41 010 07-S.
High performance camshafts for a Kohler K181 or M8 engine are available from Vogel Manufacturing Co. at: http://www.vogelmanufacturing.com. |
New-Style, One-Piece Camshafts for Kohler K-series or Magnum engine models
K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14 or K341/M16. New-style, one-piece K-series camshafts
with ACR. Can be used in a K-series engine as an upgrade from the older two-piece
camshaft. IMPORTANT: To prevent seizing of camshaft on pin when engine
is ran for the first time, apply plenty of motor oil on cam pin and inside
cam before installing cam in engine. This will better protect the parts until
crankcase oil reaches them. When reusing lifters, roughen lifter faces with
600 grit sandpaper to produce a new wear pattern and so the lifters will
rotate slightly with every lift to prevent wear to the cam lobes. And the
lobes on the used cams have not been reground for performance.
|
Duplicate of the Popular and Sought After OEM Kohler K361 18hp OHV (Over Head Valve) Camshaft -
FYI: When the cam lobes are reground, metal is removed from the base circle which reduce the diameter of the base circle in order retain maximum lift at the highest point on the lobe. The ramps on the lobes are also "rounded" to give the cam more duration. The cam grinding machine's grinding stones are about 1" wide, and after the cam grinding process, I have to manually grind metal away from the sides of the base circles so the edge of the lifters won't "ride up" on the ungrounded areas and hold the valves slightly open when they're supposed to be fully closed. I have to do this to every reground cam I have in stock. Some cam grinders apply a phosphate conversion coating (which resembles flat or matte black paint) to the entire camshaft, especially the lobes. This coating is to prevent galling (wear) during the break-in (wear-in) period and it also covers the secondary grinding areas on each side of the base circles of the lobes so they can't be readily easily seen or noticed. Motor oil with high zinc phosphate content will also protect the cam lobes and other internal moving engine parts from wear during break-in (wear-in). Otherwise, if everything else is set up correctly with your engine, this cam should work fine. There's no need to be concerned when you receive the cam and see the metal ground away. Also, some of the cams I have, the points lobe is slightly worn. (It's hard to find a good used, 100% unworn cam nowadays.) I include a stainless steel points pushrod with a flared-end to make contact with the unworn areas of the lobe. The pushrod will need to be installed from inside the block before the cam is installed. IMPORTANT: To prevent seizing of camshaft on pin when engine is ran for the first time, apply plenty of motor oil on cam pin and inside cam before installing cam in engine. This will better protect the parts until crankcase oil reaches them. |
Professionally Reground 4,000± RPM Performance Torque Cam -
FYI: When the cam lobes are reground, metal is removed from the base circle which reduce the diameter of the base circle in order retain maximum lift at the point on the lobe. The ramps on the lobes are also "rounded" to give the cam more duration. The cam grinding machine's grinding stones are about 1" wide, and after the cam grinding process, I have to manually grind metal away from the sides of the base circles so the edge of the lifters won't "ride up" on the ungrounded areas and hold the valves slightly open when they're supposed to be fully closed. I have to do this to every reground cam I have in stock. Some cam grinders apply a phosphate conversion coating (which resembles flat or matte black paint) to the entire camshaft, especially the lobes. This coating is to prevent galling (wear) during the break-in period and it also covers the secondary grinding areas on each side of the base circles of the lobes so they can't be readily easily seen or noticed. Motor oil with high zinc phosphate content will also protect the cam lobes and other internal moving engine parts from wear during break-in. Otherwise, if everything else is set up correctly with your engine, this cam should work fine. There's no need to be concerned when you receive the cam and see the metal ground away. Also, some of the cams I have, the points lobe is slightly worn. (It's hard to find a good used, 100% unworn cam nowadays.) I include a stainless steel points pushrod with a flared-end to make contact with the unworn areas of the lobe. The pushrod will need to be installed from inside the block before the cam is installed. IMPORTANT: To prevent seizing of camshaft on pin when engine is ran for the first time, apply plenty of motor oil on cam pin and inside cam before installing cam in engine. This will better protect the parts until crankcase oil reaches them.
 High Quality, High Performance, Lightweight, Hardened 4140
Chrome-Moly Steel 7º Valve Spring Retainers. Not stamped steel. 1" o.d.;
use with medium- or high performance valve springs above
È.
|
Performance Camshaft for 5,000± RPM Governored Engines -
|
High-Performance (Wide Open Throttle) Camshaft for Hot-Stock and Stock-Altered Pulling Engines -
High Quality, High Performance, Lightweight, Hardened 4140
Chrome-Moly Steel 7º Valve Spring Retainers. Not stamped steel. 1" o.d.;
use with medium- or high performance valve springs above
È.
|
 OEM Kohler Valve Springs
specially designed for Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181/M8. Each
has no dampening end. Recommended for general lawn and garden use. Suitable
for up to 3,600± RPM with cam having stock lift. NOTE: Used valve
springs rarely lose adequate pressure. They can be reused as long as they're
not rusted. The rust-pitted areas is a weak spot and when in operation and
under pressure, the spring could break.
|
 OEM Kohler Stamped Steel
Valve Spring Retainer for Intake Valve Spring. Fits Kohler K-series and Magnum
K141, K160/K161, K181/M8, K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16, K361, KT17,
KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20, K482, K532
and K582. For 5/16" diameter valve stems. Accepts 7º
keepers/locks/collets below
Ê. Used mainly on intake valve. Use only
with long (1-3/4") OEM Kohler or the medium-, or high-performance valve springs
above È. May cause valve float and engine
misfire at higher RPM if used with the short (1-9/16") valve spring. .998"
outside diameter. Made of lightweight heat-treated, hardened stamped steel.
|
 5/16"
Valve Keepers/Locks/Collets for all Kohler K-series and Magnum K141-K361
cast iron engines, and KT series and Magnum twin cylinder flathead engines,
including K482, K532 and K582. Also fits 6hp-18hp single- and twin-cylinder
Briggs & Stratton exhaust valves. Can be used with 8mm valve stems and
high performance valve springs above È.
NOTE: Valve keepers usually don't wear or get damaged because they don't
rotate on the valve stem. To check yours, with a valve out of the engine,
install a valve retainer or rotator on the valve, then the keepers, and then
pull back hard on the retainer or rotator. If the retainer or rotator holds
or squeezes the keepers tight in the groove, then they can be reused. Replaces
Briggs & Stratton part # 494553.
|
 OEM Kohler Stamped Steel
Valve Spring Stabilizer. Reduces harmonic vibrations of the valve spring
at high RPMs. Fits Kohler K-series and Magnum K141, K160/K161, K181/M8, K241/M10,
K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series
II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20, K482, K532 and K582. For 5/8" o.d. valve
guides. OEM Kohler part # 235011-S.
|
 High
Quality, Heavy Duty Scissors-Type Small Engine Valve Spring Compressor
Tool. Designed to compress OEM Kohler stock, our medium- and high-performance
valve springs, but not the double or extremely heavy single springs. Can
be used on flathead engines (valves in block) or Kohler K361 OHV cylinder
head. Replaces Briggs & Stratton part # 19063.
|
 High Quality, Heavy Duty C-Shaped
Small Engine Valve Spring Compressor Tool. Designed to compress OEM Kohler
stock, our medium- and high-performance valve springs, but not the double
or extremely heavy single springs. Can be used on flathead engines (valves
in block) or Kohler K361 OHV cylinder head. Replaces Lisle part # 23300.
|
 High Quality, Extreme Duty
Clamp-Type Valve Spring Compressor Tool. Designed to compress OEM Kohler
stock, our medium- and high-performance valve springs, and the extremely
heavy single or double springs. Can be used on flathead engines (valves in
block) or Kohler K361 OHV cylinder head.
|
| Replace Worn Lifters (Tappets) to Prevent Erratic Valve Action and/or
Premature Cam Lobe Wear!
Valve Lifter (Tappet) for Kohler K-series and Magnum single cylinder flathead engine models K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8. 2.020" overall length for intake and exhaust valves and older two-piece camshaft without automatic compression release. Non-adjustable. Grind end of valve stems with piston at TDC on compression stroke to set valve clearances. Discontinued from Kohler. OEM Kohler part # 232777-S.
1.280" Wide Base Adjustable Valve Lifters (Tappets) for Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K231/M14 and K341/M16. For competition pulling engines only using high-performance cams with .400"-.575" lift. Set valve clearances with piston at TDC on compression stroke. Reuse 7/16" adjusters from OEM Kohler lifters with these wide base lifters.
Adjustable Valve Lifter (Tappet) for Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582. Set valve clearances with piston at TDC on compression stroke. Discontinued from Kohler. OEM Kohler part # D-277031-S.
Valve Lifter (Tappet) for Kohler engine models MV16, M18, MV18 (except w/spec #'s 58560, 58561), M20 and MV20 (except w/specification #'s 57527, 57528). Used with serial number 1917809286 and after. 2.885" overall length. OEM Kohler part # 52 019 03-S.
|
 NOTE:
The 7" length camshaft pin is Discontinued from Kohler for their 10-16hp
and 18hp OHV K-series engines. It's replaced with a 6-3/4" length [Magnum]
pin and a 1/2" diameter steel expansion cup plug. When a 6-3/4" pin is installed
in a K-series or Magnum engine, it needs to be driven in 1/4" below the surface
of the block (through the flywheel end). Then the 1/2" cup plug needs to
be installed to block the hole, prevent an oil leak and keep the pin tight
in the tapered hole in the PTO end of the block. Failure to do this could
cause the pin to loosen in the tapered hole, and possibly spin with the cam,
wearing the holes in the block. And unlike the older K-series engines, being
the Magnum bearing plate/gasket doesn't cover the cam pin hole, a 1/2" steel
expansion cup plug (with a 6-3/4" pin) or
clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant (with a 7" pin) is
to be installed in front of the pin to prevent an oil leak. On the older
K-series engines, the bearing plate/gasket covers the pin, which seals in
the oil. By the way - I've always preferred to use
clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant for three reasons:
Due to metal warpage (which is unavoidable in most cases), gaskets don't
always seal the irregularities between mating metals, especially thin metal
covers; being it's an adhesive, it bonds parts together, forming a leak-proof
seal; and being it's clear, a thin bead of silicone makes for a clean and
professional-looking repair job. It can't be easily seen or noticed between
the parts.
Camshaft Pins for Kohler K-series and Magnum models K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8flathead cast iron block engines. 7/16" diameter.
Camshaft Pins for Kohler K-series and Magnum K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16flatheads and K361 cast iron block engines. 1/2" diameter.
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 Camshaft End
Shims/Spacers/Thrust Washers for Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models
K141, K160/K161 and K181/M8. FYI - The shims/thrust washers goes toward
the flywheel end of the block because being the cam (and crankshaft) gears
are beveled (angled), and due to the pressure of the valve springs, this
pushes camshaft against the block while the engine is running. These shims
are for setting the proper clearance, plus they're thrust washers. Without
these shims/thrust washers, the cam will wear against the block, plus the
cam/valve timing will be retarded, resulting in lack of engine power.
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 Neoprene Rubber Crankcase Breather Seal. 1/2" length. Fits
various Kohler engine models: K91, K241/M10, K301/M12, K330/K331, K321/M14,
K341/M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20, CH20, CV18, CV20, CV22, CV25, CV624,
CV670, CV675, CV680, CV724, CV725, CV730 and CV740. Places pressure against
baffle shield and reed valve (below Ê;
discontinued for K91) to ensure positive crankcase vacuum and ventilation.
FYI: A 1/2" length x 1/4" i.d. heat-resistant rubber vacuum hose or reinforced
rubber fuel hose will serve the same purpose.
 Neoprene Rubber Crankcase Breather Seal. 7/8" Length. Fits
various Kohler engine models: K141, K160/K161, K181/M8, MV18, MV20, CH18,
CH20, CH22, CH23, CH25, CH620, CH640, CH730, CH740, CV15 and CV25. Places
pressure against reed valve (below Ê)
to ensure positive crankcase vacuum and ventilation. FYI: A 7/8" length
x 1/4" i.d. heat-resistant rubber vacuum hose or reinforced rubber fuel hose
will serve the same purpose. OEM Kohler part # 230046-S.
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 Crankcase
Breather Filter (Oil Trap). Fits Kohler engine models K91, K141, K160/K161,
K181/M8, and opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engine models KT17, KT17 Series
II, KT19, KT19 Series II, M18 and M20. Replace deteriorated and crumbly filter.
NOTE: This "filter" is actually an oil trap. It traps and suspends oil
vapors from exiting the crankcase at higher RPM, then allows the oil to drain
back down into the crankcase when the engine is at an idle or turned off.
(It's too coarse to be a filter of any kind.) Not included in
aftermarket engine gasket set. Dimensions:
Approximately (±) 1-1/4" x 1-1/4". OEM Kohler part # 231419-S.
  Small Crankcase Breather Filter (Oil Trap). Fits Kohler engine
models K241, K301, K330/K331, K321, K341 and various Magnum models M12, M14
and M16. Replace deteriorated and crumbly filter. NOTE: This "filter"
is actually an oil trap. It traps and suspends oil vapors from exiting the
crankcase at higher RPM, then allows the oil to drain back down into the
crankcase when the engine is at an idle or turned off. (It's too coarse to
be a filter of any kind.) Not included in
aftermarket engine gasket set. Fills about
1/3 center area of breather plate. To be used with crankcase breather cover
with open atmospheric vent and external oil control baffle shield part #
235117-S (below Ê). Dimensions: Approximately
(±) 1-1/2" x 2". OEM Kohler part # 235118-S.
  Large Crankcase Breather Filter (Oil Trap). Fits Kohler AQS
(Quiet Line) engine models K241, K301, K321, K341, K361 and various Magnum
engine models M10, M12, M14 and M16. Replace deteriorated and crumbly filter.
NOTE: This "filter" is actually an oil trap. It traps and suspends oil
vapors from exiting the crankcase at higher RPM, then allows the oil to drain
back down into the crankcase when the engine is at an idle or turned off.
(It's too coarse to be a filter of any kind.) Not included in
aftermarket engine gasket set. Fills entire
area of breather plate. To be used with crankcase breather cover with PCV
breather vent tube and external oil control baffle shield and reed stop part
# 270146-S (below Ê). Dimensions:
Approximately (±) 2" x 3". OEM Kohler part # 47 050 01-S.
[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
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 Crankcase Breather Oil Control Baffle Shield and Reed Stop.
Fits Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) engine models K241, K301, K321, K341, K361 and
various Magnum engine models M10, M12, M14 and M16. Positions against reed
valve inside of breather plate (below Ê).
To be used with crankcase breather cover with PCV breather vent tube and
large crankcase breather filter (oil trap) part # 47 050 01-S (above
È). OEM Kohler part # 270146-S.
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 Crankcase Breather Reed
Valve for Kohler engine model K91. Replace damaged or rusted reed valve to
prevent loss of oil through breather vent hole, prevent outside dust and
dirt from being drawn into crankcase and maintain crankcase vacuum and proper
ventilation so engine will produce more power and last longer.
Crankcase Breather Plate and Reed Valve Assembly for Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8. Replace damaged or rusted breather plate/reed valve assembly to prevent loss of oil through breather vent hole, prevent outside dust and dirt from being drawn into crankcase and maintain crankcase vacuum and proper ventilation so engine will produce more power and last longer.
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  Crankcase Breather Plate for Kohler engine models K241/M10,
K301/M12, K330/K331, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361. Prevents leaking oil and/or
outside dust and dirt from entering crankcase and maintain crankcase vacuum
so engine will produce more power. Has internal oil splash baffle shield
spot-welded on backside of plate. OEM Kohler part # 235631-S.
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  Crankcase Breather
Cover and Kit for Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K330/K331, K321/M14,
K341/M16 and K361. Replace bent, damaged or rusted cover to prevent leaking
oil.
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 Metal Hole Plug.
Use to block-off/plug the breather vent tube hole in the base of the air
cleaner on Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) and Magnum engine models K241/M10, K301/M12,
K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 when converting crankcase breather to open
atmospheric vent. Plug prevents dust and dirt from entering the engine through
the air cleaner, resulting in excessive engine wear, which will lead to smoking
out the exhaust and oil burning. When the plug is installed in the hole,
it will have a loose fit. Therefore, the locking tangs will need to be
bent/flared outward to secure it permanently in place.
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  Neoprene Rubber Crankcase Breather Vent Tubes. Either can
be used on Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) and Magnum engine models K241/M10, K301/M12,
K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 with the positive crankcase ventilation crankcase
breather cover to convert engine to open atmospheric vent when used with
the round-shaped metal air
cleaner/filter assembly. Makes a nice distinctive look.
 Neoprene
Rubber Crankcase Breather Vent Tube. 3-11/32" overall length. Used on various
Kohler Magnum engine models M10, M12, M14 and M16. Fastens between base of
air cleaner and crankcase breather cover. Part of positive crankcase ventilation
system. Vents back-pressure from inside crankcase into air intake so engine
can burn the oil vapors. Replace dry-rotted breather tube to prevent outside
air from entering combustion chamber, which will cause excessive engine wear.
 Neoprene
Rubber Crankcase Breather Vent Tube. 3-17/32" overall length. Used on Kohler
K-series "Quiet Line" engine models K241, K301, K321, K341 and K361. Fastens
between base of oblong-shaped
metal air cleaner/filter assembly and crankcase breather cover. Part
of positive crankcase ventilation system. Vents back-pressure from inside
crankcase into air intake so engine can burn the oil vapors. Replace dry-rotted
breather tube to prevent outside air from entering combustion chamber, which
will cause excessive engine wear.
 Neoprene
Rubber Crankcase Breather Vent Tube. 3-29/32" overall length. Part of positive
crankcase ventilation system. Used on various Kohler Magnum engine models
M10, M12, M14 and M16. Fastens between base of air cleaner and crankcase
breather cover. Vents back-pressure from inside crankcase into air intake
so engine can burn the oil vapors. Replace dry-rotted breather tube to prevent
outside air from entering combustion chamber, which will cause excessive
engine wear.
 Neoprene Rubber Crankcase Breather Vent Tube. Used on various
Kohler Magnum engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, M18
and M20. Fastens between base of air cleaner and crankcase breather cover.
Part of positive crankcase ventilation system. Vents back-pressure from inside
crankcase into air intake so engine can burn the oil vapors. Replace dry-rotted
breather tube to prevent outside air from entering combustion chamber, which
will cause excessive engine wear.
 Neoprene Rubber U-Shaped Crankcase Breather Vent Tube.
Used on various Kohler engine models K241, K301/M12, K321/M14 and K341/M16.
Fastens between base of air cleaner and crankcase breather cover. Part of
positive crankcase ventilation system. Vents back-pressure from inside crankcase
into air intake so engine can burn the oil vapors. Replace dry-rotted breather
tube to prevent outside air from entering combustion chamber, which will
cause excessive engine wear.
Neoprene Rubber U-Shaped Crankcase Breather Vent Tube.
Used on various Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582. Fastens between
air cleaner elbow and crankcase breather housing on governor. Vents back-pressure
from inside crankcase into air intake so engine can burn the oil vapors.
Replace dry-rotted breather tube to prevent outside air from entering combustion
chamber, which will cause excessive engine wear.
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 Crankcase Breather Cover
Studs for Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181/M8, and various K241,
K301, K321 and K341. Dimensions: 1/4-20 UNC (coarse thread) x 3-9/16"
length.
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Crankcase Breather Cover
Gaskets for Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8. Included
in complete engine rebuild gasket sets. Will also fit Kohler opposed (flathead)
twin cylinder engine models MV16, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series
II, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20 with center cut out (3 gaskets required).
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Inner and Outer Crankcase Breather Cover Gaskets for Kohler
engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K330/K331, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361.
Included in complete engine rebuild gasket sets below
Ê.
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| If you need something that's not listed here, please contact A-1 Miller's and I'll see if I can get it for a reasonable price. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any of the above È parts or items. |
New and Reconditioned OEM Kohler Cylinder Heads - Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any of these parts or services. | Top of page
  Stripped Spark Threads Repair Service - No need to purchase
another cylinder head! The repair services below also includes resurfacing
of air-cooled small engine cylinder head to remove warpage and restore flatness.
|
 Cylinder head for Kohler
engine models K141, K160, K161 and K181/M8. Cleaned and resurfaced on a
wide sanding belt or large diameter disc sander to remove
warpage and restore flatness, with fins, spark plug threads, and bolt holes
for fastening of the cooling sheet metal all in good condition.
Click or tap here for cylinder head bolt torque
specs. Discontinued from Kohler. OEM Kohler part # 41 015 09-S.
 2nd Generation Cylinder Head
for Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241/M10 and K301/M12. Used
and in excellent condition. Can also be used on the early K321 engines with
the small (1-1/8") exhaust valve. Cleaned and resurfaced on a
wide sanding belt or large diameter disc sander to remove
warpage and restore flatness, with fins, spark plug threads, and bolt holes
for fastening of the cooling sheet metal all in good condition.
Click or tap here for cylinder head bolt torque
specs.
 3rd Generation Cylinder Head
for Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241/M10, K301/M12 and K321/M14.
Used and in excellent condition. Cleaned and resurfaced on a
wide sanding belt or large diameter disc sander to remove
warpage and restore flatness, with fins, spark plug threads, and bolt holes
for fastening of the cooling sheet metal all in good condition. Requires
1-1/2" length head bolts. Click or tap here for
cylinder head bolt torque specs.
 4th Generation Cylinder Head
for Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241/M10, K301/M12 and K321/M14.
Used and in excellent condition. Cleaned and resurfaced on a
wide sanding belt or large diameter disc sander to remove
warpage and restore flatness, with fins, spark plug threads, and bolt holes
for fastening of the cooling sheet metal all in good condition. Requires
1-1/2" length head bolts. OEM Kohler part #'s 237670 and 237830.
Click or tap here for cylinder head bolt torque
specs.
 16hp Cylinder Head for Kohler
K-series and Magnum engine models K341/M16. Used and in excellent condition.
Cleaned and resurfaced on a
wide sanding belt or large diameter disc sander to remove
warpage and restore flatness, with fins, spark plug threads, and bolt holes
for fastening of the cooling sheet metal all in good condition. Requires
1-1/2" length head bolts. Discontinued from Kohler. OEM Kohler part #'s 45
015 06 and 45 015 09. Click or tap here for cylinder
head bolt torque specs.
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 Cylinder Head
Bolts and Flat Washers below Ê for Kohler
engine models K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8. Replace bolts with eroded, rusted
heads to prevent socket from slipping so bolt will torque down correctly.
5/16" diameter x 1-1/2" thread length grade 8 bolts and hardened washers.
NOTES: Clean threads in block with a 5/16-18 UNC (coarse thread) plug
hand tap so bolts will torque correctly to prevent a leaking head gasket.
Oil threads and torque each bolt to 240 in. lbs. or 20 ft. lbs.
Click or tap here for cylinder head bolt torque
specs.
Aftermarket Single Cylinder Head Stud Kits for Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 with an OEM or Billet Head. Each kit includes 3/8" diameter x 2" or 2-3/4" length high quality heat-treated studs, grade 8 nuts and hardened flat washers. I can also make the head studs any length you want. The ones that's listed here are the most common lengths. When installed correctly and torqued to specs, head studs provide even torque pressure for better head gasket sealing. Plus, with a thinner cylinder wall with a huge, oversized piston, they help maintain cylinder wall stability and straightness for better ring seal to lessen the loss of compression. Thoroughly tested for several years of continuous use under pulling conditions, for Kohler engine models, hardened and heat-treated coarse thread studs, along with grade 8 nuts and washers, works just fine, with no problems. The nuts maintain their torque as long as they're tightened to the correct torque specs. And make sure at least 3/4" of threads are in the block so the cylinder wall will not distort and threads in block will not strip out when the nuts are torqued to specs. Click or tap here for cylinder head bolt torque specs. (Cast iron is weaker than hardened steel.) Also, the flat washers goes under the nuts to distribute even pressure across head. IMPORTANT: As with any threaded stud, apply medium strength liquid threadlocker (Blue Loctite, Permatex or equivalent) on threads that goes in the block to prevent stud from loosening. FYI - When storing an opened container of liquid threadlocker or Super Glue, store it upright and not laying flat. The [capped] tip will not dry out and clog when stored upright. Thread stud 3/4" into the block. Use a hardened flat washer under nut to distribute load across head and apply motor oil on exposed threads so nut will torque correctly. Torque each nut to 360 in. lbs. or 30 ft. lbs. in correct sequence. Also, stud length is determined by type of cylinder head. The OEM head with short bolt holes require 2" length studs, the head with tall bolt holes require 2-3/4" length studs. Please indicate length of studs when placing order. An innovative concept by Brian Miller. Accept no copycat parts!
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Cooling Fan, Reconditioned OEM Kohler Flywheels, Crankshafts and Main Bearings - | Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any of these parts or services.
 High Velocity
12 Volt Engine Cooling Fan. Use an electric cooling fan when engine has a
steel flywheel with no cooing fins. Draws 2.6 amps, produces 145 CFM. Measures
3" diameter and 5" length. Best to fasten fan on a sturdy angle steel support
bracket in front of engine or behind grille in a Cub Cadet garden tractor.
Motor is 100% secured and reinforced in plastic fan housing tube to withstand
severe engine vibrations. Motor will not loosen or become inoperable when
pulling. No need to install rubber mounting grommets. These will serve no
purpose whatsoever. IMPORTANT: Do not run fan while pulling because the
internal brushes could break due to normal engine vibration. Turn fan on
ONLY between pull-offs or when tuning engine.
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 9-1/2"
Lightweight Steel Flywheel. Has machined step for installation
of Kohler ring gear. Weighs 19 lb. w/ring gear. Approximately same weight
as OEM Kohler flywheel w/ring gear. Ideal for wide open throttle competition
pulling engines (Hot Stock, Sport Stock, Stock Altered, Pro Stock, Super
Stock, Modified) for more top-end power and torque. Precision CNC-machined
in the USA with lazer-etched timing marks.
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 9-1/2"
Heavyweight Steel Flywheel. Has machined step for installation
of Kohler ring gear. Weighs 32 lb. w/ring gear. Approximately 13 lb. heavier
than stock OEM Kohler flywheel. Provides additional horsepower and torque.
Ideal for 4,000± RPM stock competition pulling engines for more low-end
lugging power and torque. Precision CNC-machined in the USA with lazer-etched
timing marks.
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 Kohler K181 Flywheel
for the 5-1/2" 15/20 Amp Charging Stator. Replace damaged flywheel, or use
this type of flywheel with the 5-1/2" stator to convert a K181 engine with
a stator containing a failed magneto ignition coil integrated with a weak
output 10 amp charging coils under the flywheel to the battery-powered ignition
system. OEM Kohler part # 41 025 17-S.
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 8" diameter
OEM Kohler flywheel for engine models K241-K361. Used and in excellent condition.
With full fins. Use with starter/generator for general lawn and garden use.
This flywheel is for battery ignition only, not magneto or solid state ignition,
but can be used with my PerTronix Ignitor flywheel-trigger electronic ignition
system. In excellent condition and unaltered. No crack in the keyway, no
broken or missing fins. This flywheel is for stock
engines only; not to be turned above 4,000 RPM! Discontinued from
Kohler. OEM Kohler part # 47 755 02-S.
9-1/2" diameter OEM Kohler flywheel for engine models K241-K361. Used and in excellent condition. With internal charging magnets for 5-1/2" o.d. stator. For general lawn and garden use. Has 3/4" wide edge. This flywheel is for battery ignition, not Breakerless, magneto or solid state ignition, but can be used with my flywheel-trigger electronic ignition system. In excellent condition and unaltered. No crack in the keyway, no broken or missing fins. This flywheel is for stock engines only; not to be turned above 4,000 RPM! Discontinued from Kohler. OEM Kohler part #'s 47 025 22-S or 47 025 24-S.
9-1/2" diameter OEM Kohler flywheel for engine models K241-K361. Used and in excellent condition. With full fins and internal charging magnets for 5-1/2" o.d. stator. Has projection (hump) or OEM protruding bolt head for Breakerless Ignition or flywheel-trigger ignition. For general lawn and garden use. This flywheel is for battery- or Breakerless-ignition, not magneto or solid state ignition, but can be used with my flywheel-trigger electronic ignition system. In excellent condition and unaltered. No crack in the keyway, no broken or missing fins. This flywheel is for stock engines only; not to be turned above 4,000 RPM! Discontinued from Kohler. OEM Kohler part # 47 025 28-S.
Used ring gear for the 10 tooth starter gear for 9-1/2" diameter OEM Kohler or steel flywheel. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Your OEM Kohler flywheel - Remove majority of fins and precision spin-balance. Includes remove most of the integrated fins, chuck it in our metal lathe to true up the fins so they're all even and then precision spin-balance it. Recommended for stock competition pulling engines only; not to be turned above 4,000 RPM! $85.00 labor, return shipping extra. |
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  Plugs to block-off stub shaft holes in Kohler blocks after
removal of balance gears and stub shafts.
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Dynamic Precision Spin-Balancing
Service -
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| A-1
Miller's Computerized Stuska Water Brake
Engine
Dynamometer
(Dyno) Service with DPM Data Logger Software to Test Horsepower and
Torque!
Engine Dyno Rental Fee: $50.00 per hour run time from the moment the engine is started. No setup fee for Cub Cadet engines with a 3- or 6-pin/stud clutch driver. An adapter may need to be needed or fabricated for other makes and models of engines. Only engines with the narrow base oil pan can be tested. Engines with the wide base (tall) oil pan cannot be tested at this time. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website] |
|
 Flywheel Retaining
Nuts for 5/8" or 3/4" threaded stud on end of K-series and steel crankshafts.
IMPORTANT: Apply thin coat of motor oil on threads of crankshaft before
installing then torque each nut to 65 ft. lbs.
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|
 Flywheel Retaining Bolt and
Washer Kit for 3/8" threaded hole in end of crankshaft. Grade 8, 3/8" diameter,
fine thread (3/8-24 UNF) bolt, split lock washer and extra thick washer.
Most of these parts discontinued from Kohler. IMPORTANT: Apply thin coat
of motor oil in threads of crankshaft or on bolt then torque 40 ft. lb.
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 Starter Pulley Retaining
Bolt/Washer Kit for PTO end of crankshaft. Comes with grade 8, 3/8" or 7/16"
bolt, split lock washer and extra thick washer. Certain professional pulling
associations/clubs require this in case starter pulley comes loose on crankshaft
and become an airborne projectile, which can cause serious injury to a bystander
or spectator.
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 Extra Thick Flywheel
/ Aluminum Hub Adapter Retaining Washers. A thick, wide washer is a must
to secure flywheel and prevent clutch/driveshaft aluminum hub adapter breakage.
Each made of steel and measures 1-1/4" o.d. x approximately 1/4" thick.
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 Step Washer.
Use to center cast aluminum or billet hub adapter with a 5/8" hole to a
crankshaft with the 3/8" bolt on later model Kohler K-series and all Magnum
engines. A must to prevent severe wobble/vibration and prevent hub and/or
driveshaft/clutch breakage. Dimensions: 3/8" i.d. x 5/8" o.d. step x
approximately 1-1/4" overall o.d. x 1/2" overall height. Professionally machined
by Brian Miller.
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|
 Cub Cadet hub
adapters with 5/8" center hole (early K-series), w/pulley, w/dowel pin.
Cub Cadet hub adapters with 3/8" center hole (later K-series, all KT-series and Magnum), w/o pulley, w/dowel pin.
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 1/4" diameter
x 3/4" length hardened steel dowel pin for OEM Kohler and billet aluminum
hub adapters. Secures aluminum hub to flywheel to prevent slippage. Replaces
Cub Cadet part # KH-X-56-7 and Kohler part # X-56-7. $1.50 each, plus
shipping & handling. |
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 Flywheel grass/safety
steel screen for use in IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractors with Kohler engine
models K161 and K181. 5-9/16" diameter.
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 Flywheel grass/safety
steel screen for use in IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractors with Kohler engine
models K241 and K301. 7" diameter.
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 Steel Rectangular
Flywheel Key for Kohler engine models K241, K301 and K321 made 1972 and earlier
with the 8" diameter flywheel and starter/generator. Dimensions: 3/16" wide
x 1/4" tall x 1-3/8" length. Discontinued from Kohler. OEM Kohler part #
X-366-1-S.
 Steel Woodruff (Semicircular)
Flywheel Key for most OHV aluminum block Kohler engines. Dimensions: 3/16"
wide x 5/8" length.
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OEM Kohler Cast Aluminum and Cast Iron Oil Pans - Please contact me if you're interested in any of these parts or services. | Top of page
Magnetic Oil Drain Plugs with Tapered Threads and Square Head. A-1 Miller
oil drain plugs have a super strong rare earth/neodymium magnet. Five times
stronger than competitor's ceramic (ferrite) magnet and resists demagnetization.
Plugs listed below can be used on various other makes and models of
transmissions, transaxles, gearboxes and small engines. Tapered threads requires
no sealing gasket or sealant, and threads will not strip out when tightened.
To avoid cracking oil pan, do not over-tighten! When in doubt, to insure
proper sealing and to prevent a possible oil leak, use
Teflon®/plumber's thread seal tape on the threads.
Universal application. Magnet attracts and removes
ferrous
metallic wear fragments from the motor oil or transmission/gearbox to reduce
engine or gear/bearing wear. Sometimes some of the ferrous wear fragments
settle to the bottom of the oil pan and do not drain out with the oil when
performing an oil change, even when the oil is hot. The engine will last
much longer due to cleaner oil. Magnetic drain plugs are suitable for engines
with splash oil lubrication (no oil pump/filter).
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   Engine Oil Filters.
Fits Kohler engine models CH11-CH15, CH18, CH20, CH25, CH620, CH640, CH730,
CV12.5-CV26, CV460, CV680, CV730-CV750, MV16, KT17 Series II, KT19 Series
II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20, K482, K532 and K582, K662, LV625 and LV675.
Kohler part #'s 277233-S, 12 050 01-S, 52 050 02-S1; Briggs and Stratton
part # 491056 (Vanguard). Has anti-drain back valve to minimize dry engine
starts.
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| Repair Service: Repair stripped aluminum oil pan mounting bolt hole threads. No need to purchase another oil pan! $5.00 each for parts and labor, plus return shipping & handling. |
  Cast Aluminum, Narrow Base, Flat Bottom Oil Pan for Kohler
K-series engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 with
a narrow base block, or if the flanges have been cut off, and the block is
converted for use with a narrow base oil pan. Clean and in excellent condition,
with good bolt thread holes and no cracks. This is also an exact replacement
for John Deere models 110, 112 and early model 210 with the Kohler K241 engines.
Model 112 serial number 100,001 – 250,000, 110 serial number 250,001
and up with the Kohler K241 engine, and 210 up to serial number 95,261. These
will also fit Wheel Horse garden tractors. Clean and in excellent condition,
including good bolt threads. Includes drain plug. Holds 1 quart of oil. Weighs
1.3 lb. Discontinued from Kohler. OEM Kohler part # 237588-S.
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 Cast Iron, Narrow Base, Flat Bottom Oil Pan for Kohler K-series
engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 with a narrow
base block, or if the flanges have been cut off, and the block is converted
for use with a narrow base oil pan. These are clean and in excellent condition,
with good bolt thread holes and no cracks. This is also an exact replacement
for John Deere models 110, 112 and early model 210 with the Kohler K241 engines.
Model 112 serial number 100,001 – 250,000, 110 serial number 250,001
and up with the Kohler K241 engine, and 210 up to serial number 95,261. These
will also fit Wheel Horse garden tractors. Clean and in excellent condition,
including good bolt threads. Includes drain plug. Holds 1 quart of oil. Weighs
4.1 lb. Discontinued from Kohler. OEM Kohler part # 235352.
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 Cast Aluminum, Narrow Base, Deep Sump Oil Pans for Kohler K-series
engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 with a narrow
base block, or if the flanges have been cut off, and the block is converted
for use with a narrow base oil pan. Clean and in excellent condition, with
good bolt thread holes and no cracks. Suitable for general lawn and garden
use or 4,000 RPM stock pulling engines. NOTE: For better lubrication,
these oil pans require a full length oil dipper on the connecting rod.
Includes drain plug. Holds 1-1/2 quarts of oil. Weighs 1.85 lb. Discontinued
from Kohler. OEM Kohler part # 47 199 09-S.
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 Cast Iron, Narrow Base, Deep Sump Oil Pan for Kohler K-series
engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 with a narrow
base block, or if the flanges have been cut off, and the block is converted
for use with a narrow base oil pan. Clean and in excellent condition, with
good bolt thread holes and no cracks. Suitable for stroker pulling engines.
NOTE: For better lubrication, these oil pans require a full length oil
dipper on the connecting rod. Includes drain plug. Holds 1-1/2 quarts
of oil. Weighs 5.4 lb. Discontinued from Kohler. OEM Kohler part # 236328.
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 Cast Iron,Wide Base, Oil Pan for Kohler K-series engine models
K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 with a wide base/flanged
block. These are clean and in excellent condition, with good bolt thread
holes and no cracks. These come on various makes of tractors such as: Ariens,
Wheel Horse, some Ford, some Jacobsen, Gravely, New Holland, Sears Suburban,
Engineering Products Co. (Economy models) and Allis Chalmers. NOTE: For
better lubrication, these oil pans require a full length oil dipper on the
connecting rod. Includes drain plug. Holds 2 quarts of oil.
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| If you need something that's not listed here, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if I can get it at a reasonable price. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any of the above È parts or items. |
Exhaust Gaskets, Complete Header Pipe Kits and Adapters - Top of page | Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any of these parts or services.
  Exhaust Port/Flange Gaskets for various Kohler engine models
K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8. Measure accurately from center of bolt holes
on engine block for correct part. Not available in aftermarket.
L
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|
 Exhaust Port/Flange Gaskets
for Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12 and K321/M14. 1-3/4" bolt hole
spacing.
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 Exhaust Port /Flange Gasket
for Kohler engine model K361. 2-1/16" bolt hole spacing.
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 Exhaust Manifold-to-Cylinder
Mounting Gaskets for Kohler flathead twin cylinder engine models KT17, KT17
Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. 1-3/4" offset
bolt hole spacing.
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 Exhaust Manifold to Block
Mounting Gasket for Kohler opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engine models
K482, K532 and K582.
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| Exhaust Port Repair/Modification Services. (K141,
K161, K181/M8, K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14 or K341/M16 Kohler engines.)
Remove or drill out broken exhaust bolt(s) and recut 5/16-18 UNC (coarse thread) threads for installation of new bolts or studs. NOTE: If broken bolt(s) needs to be drilled out, crankshaft and bearing plate will need to be removed from engine block so I can fasten block directly to table or in a V-shaped fixture to the table of my milling machine. An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this type of service for a Kohler engine block.
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|
 High Quality
Durable Mufflers. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181/M8, K241/M10,
K301/M12 and K321/M14, and Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh and various other
makes and models of larger small engines. Each coated with weather-proof
and heat-resistant paint. Dimension of mufflers: approximately 3-1/4" x 3-1/4".
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|
  Bolt-On Header Pipe Kits for Kohler Engine Models K241/M10,
K301/M12 and K321/M14. For competition pulling engines with stock-size
or oversize valves running at 4,000 RPM or at wide open throttle. High grade
durable and galvanized-coated mild steel pipe resists rust and will not discolor,
even from exhaust heat. Has a 90º, 4" radius bend; each pipe extends
8" from exhaust port to midway of bend for plenty of hood clearance and measures
18" upward from midway of bend. Kit includes 1-5/16" o.d. x 1.260" i.d. x
24" length header pipe, 2-1/2" o.d. x 1-5/16" i.d. x 5/16"± thickness
round mounting flange and two 5/16-18 UNC Allen head bolts. Flange fastens
directly to engine block.
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|
 Steel Exhaust
Pipe or Header Pipe Mounting Flange for Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161,
K181 and M8 with 1-9/16" or 1-11/16" exhaust port bolt hole spacings. Please
specify if need for 1-9/16" or 1-11/16" bolt hole spacing. If no bolt holes
exist next to exhaust port, two 5/16-18 UNC (coarse thread) threaded holes
will need to be drilled
and tapped at precise locations to accept this flange.
Click or tap here to
learn how to drill and tap bolt holes. Approximately 3/16" thickness
with 1" center hole. Weld exhaust pipe or header to flange. No gasket is
required. Fastens directly to engine block with
clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant. This part was never
available from Kohler.
 
Steel Exhaust Pipe or Header Pipe Mounting Flange for Kohler engine model K361 18hp OHV. Made of mild steel. Dimensions: (4) 21/64" diameter mounting holes spaced 2-1/16" apart x 1-1/4" center hole x approximately 3/16" or 1/4" thickness. Weld exhaust pipe or header to flange. Being there is no 4-bolt hole exhaust gasket available for this particular engine, fasten flange directly to head with clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant. Exhaust heat has very little effect on RTV silicone rubber. It can withstand up to 2,500 degrees heat. This part was never available from Kohler.
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|
Machine Shop Services. (Prices below Ê are with the engine out of the tractor and on my work table.) Top of page
Engine Block -
Convert 10-16hp Kohler wide base block to narrow base, for use in a garden tractor requiring a narrow base engine block. (Cub Cadet, Ford, John Deere, Wheel Horse, etc.) See pictures below Ê An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this type of service for a Kohler engine block.
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| Valve Train Related - (Prices below are with your engine
on my work table.)
Grind used valve to OEM angle: $5.00 each, plus return shipping & handling. Grind your [45º] intake valve at 30º angle and undercut head for more airflow. $17.00 labor each, plus return shipping & handling. Grind seat in your single cylinder block or OHV head to OEM angle or 30º angle: $5.00 labor each, plus return shipping & handling. Perform valve job to OEM specs (grind two valve faces and seats), install valves in single cylinder OEM [Kohler] block and set clearances: $25.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling. Perform performance valve job on two stock valves and seats in single cylinder OEM [Kohler] block for improved airflow: $40.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling. Price includes grinding the exhaust valve and seat at 45º/46º angles, intake valve and seat at 30º/31º angles respectively and undercutting both valve heads.
Install stock size valves in single cylinder Kohler-replicated aftermarket block with small uncut valve pockets: $150.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling. Price does not include any parts. Install oversize valves in single cylinder Kohler-replicated aftermarket block with small uncut valve pockets: $200.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling. Price does not include any parts. Enlarge and Polish Intake and Exhaust Port Runners -
Install 1-3/8" exhaust valve in 10, 12 and older 14hp OEM Kohler block: $50.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling. Install oversize valves, and enlarge/polish intake and exhaust runners in single cylinder (OEM [Kohler] block): $175.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling. Install oversize valves, and enlarge/polish intake and exhaust runners in single cylinder (Kohler-replicated aftermarket block): $300.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling. Install thin-wall bronze sleeves/liners in worn OEM valve guides in single cylinder Kohler and other makes of engines. $12.00 each, plus return shipping & handling. Bronze valve guide sleeves/liners are an alternative to replacing the entire guide in Kohler engines. Bronze also last longer than Kohler's cast iron guides because bronze retains more oil for better lubrication of the valve stem. Install OEM-type [centered] cast iron valve guide or offset valve guide in single cylinder OEM Kohler block and ream for clearance of valve stem: $15.00 each labor only, plus return shipping & handling. Price does not include guide. Install bronze offset valve guide in single cylinder OEM Kohler block and ream for clearance of valve stem: $15.00 each labor only, plus return shipping & handling. Price does not include guide. Oversize valve MUST be used with an offset guide. |
Cylinder Head Machine Work -
|
Kohler Engine Model K361 Cylinder Head Repairs -
Click or tap here for cylinder head bolt torque
specs.
NOTE: Before lapping in valves, it's best to have the valve seats recut or reground so the angle will be in correct alignment with the centerline of the valve guides and so the valve face will make a full 360º contact with the seat, or the valves will leak and the engine will lose compression, be hard to start, be low on power and possibly make a popping sound through the carburetor or out the exhaust. And be sure to set the clearances correctly, too.
 Valve Guides for Kohler engine
model K361 cylinder head.
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| Crankshaft Repairs - This includes Briggs & Stratton, Kohler,
Tecumseh, etc.
Regrind journal (crank pin) to next undersize. NOTE: Kohler crankshafts can be reground to .030" undersize and still be safe to use with matching undersized replaceable bearing inserts installed in the connecting rod. And all crankshafts, rather if they're automotive or small engine, are checked for straightness before grinding. If they're bent or twisted, sometimes they can be straightened. I also do offset crankshaft grinding to increase the length of the stroke at no extra charge. NOTE: Once installed and in operation, there is no warranty or guarantee of any kind on crankshaft regrinds.
"Round Up" Rod Journal(s) and Resize Connecting Rods. The service is for most makes and models of engines when an undersize connecting rod or bearing inserts isn't available, if the crankshaft is worn beyond .010" and needs to be reground again, the journal can be reground to wherever it "cleans up" or is true again, then the connecting rod can be resized so it'll fit the smaller undersize journal with the factory recommended .0025" oil clearance. To resize the rod so it'll fit to a few thousands of an inch smaller diameter crank journal, first, metal is removed from the mating end of the rod cap, then the cap is fasten to the rod. The big hole in the rod is now oblong or "egg shaped." Then the big hole in the rod is honed until it's .002" larger than the diameter of the crank journal. Honing reshapes the hole into a perfect circle again, only smaller in diameter. This works very well and it lasts as long as an ordinary STD size rod and crank journal. This can only be performed on a rod with a good bearing surface. It cannot be done on a burnt or heavily scored connecting rod because too much metal would need to be removed. If you're interested, I will need your crankshaft and connecting rod(s). NOTE - The maximum a connecting rod can be resized to is .005" undersize. If it's resized more than .005", being the big hole in the rod will be made excessively oblong or egg-shaped, which will allow it to less bearing surface contact around the crank journal after being resized, due to the centrifugal force at 3,600 RPM, the big end of the rod could become elongated (metal stretch) and might eventually knock and possibly break. NOTE: Once installed and in operation, there is no warranty or guarantee of any kind on crankshaft regrinds. An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this service .
Repair broken off 5/8" stud on flywheel end of crankshaft. Center drill and cut threads for a 3/8" diameter grade 8 bolt in the end of crankshaft.
Drill hole and cut 7/16-20 UNF (fine thread) threads in the PTO end of the crankshaft for bolt and flat washer.
|
Solid Motor Mounts for Cub Cadet "Quiet Line"
Tractors - Replace Deteriorated "ISO" Rubber Motor Mounts with a Set of Machined
Solid Steel Motor Mounts! An original, ingenious, innovative
concept invention by Brian Miller, because I was the one who originally thought
of, promoted and advertised the use of this product.
Please accept no copycat
products of this kind.
Details include:
These install between the engine mounting cradle and tractor
frame. They are an alternative to replacing deteriorated OEM "ISO" rubber
engine mounts, which is usually associated with damaged clutch components.
Fits Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" models 482, 680, 800, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1204,
1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1340, 1450 and 1650. If your tractor has two angled
brackets that the engine is mounted on with rubber mounts between the brackets
and the tractor frame, then these are what your tractor needs.
(Added
3/17/20) OEM Cub Cadet Engine Rubber ISO-Mount Kit. Replace deteriorated
rubber ISO-mounts to lessen chances of clutch drive plate breakage and so
less wear will occur to the clutch assembly. Designed for IH-built Cub Cadet
"Quiet Line" models 800, 1000 and 1200, including models 1250, 1450 and 1650
with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment. All of these models have the engine
mounted on rails with ISO rubber mounts. These rubber mounts can also be
adapted for use on many other makes and models of small engine equipment
to reduce engine vibration throughout the frame.
A-1 Miller's Lawn & Garden,
Recreational Vehicle/Early Snowmobile Engine Rebuilding and Custom Engine
Build-up Services
Top of page
| If you would like to purchase
any of the parts or services listed in this website, and/or for FREE professional
and honest technical assistance and support, please contact: A-1 Miller's
Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri)
65203-9136 USA | Phone:
1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice
message, please speak slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except
holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later.
(When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1
Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends,
except holidays. Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your
arrival. E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we
can provide many more high quality parts and professional
services.) |
| Information About My Engine Rebuilding Service -
Small engine technology has changed a lot since the Kohler K-series and Magnum engines were made. I can rebuild your lawn and garden engine (or competition pulling engine) with new technological parts so it'll produce more power and last longer than the factory anticipated. I also build engines from scratch and rebuild customer's complete engines from factory stock, to 4,000± RPM governored, to wide open throttle Hot-Stock and Stock-Altered pulling engines. I can build a quality, competition engine for you, or rebuild your engine however you want. Just tell A-1 Miller's know how you're going to use your tractor or equipment and I'll build your engine to suit your needs. And if it's required in your club's rules or not, ALWAYS install a safety shield made of adequate thickness and material for each side of the engine fastened to the tractor frame securely in case of connecting rod failure (Murphy's Law), so an innocent bystander or spectator won't be injured or killed from high-speed projected metal shrapnel. Also, I set the air/fuel adjusters on all carburetors just so the engine will start and run, but because of the altitude level, barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine will be used, the customer will need to make the final bore.) OEM so the engine will run smooth. No carburetor with an adjustable high speed main fuel adjuster comes preset, not even new ones. Furthermore, just to let you know, although I use the best parts, use caution on choosing the right motor oil to use in your engine. Because the government (tree huggers/Sierra club) is requiring oil companies to lessen the amount of zinc in their motor oils to reduce pollution. Zinc provides a protective coating on internal engine parts and prevents metal to metal contact for proper break-in and it helps the parts last longer. Many auto manufacturers and professional engine rebuilders are upset because of this too, because they have to guarantee their engines for a certain period of time, and many of them take pride in building their engines. Regarding an Engine Build Estimate -
I am very meticulous in how I rebuild and build engines. If you would like
to have A-1 Miller's build, rebuild or build-up your engine, I will need
a detailed list of exactly what you want done to your engine or a copy of
your club's pulling rules regarding the engine requirements before I can
give you an estimate on the cost. And if you (the customer), change
your mind of how you want the engine built or rebuilt in the middle of a
build, I will need to know ahead of time and I will need the changes in writing
so I can make the necessary changes to the engine. Otherwise, this will effect
how well the engine performs on the track, and it would make me, as a
professional engine builder, look bad. It's not a good thing to be afraid
that something bad may happen to an engine. Having confidence in an engine
makes ya feel good, but having confidence in your engine builder makes ya
feel better. I do not build illegal pulling engines that do not conform to your club's rules! But there are certain other engine builders that offer new pulling engines for sale. BUT, being different pulling associations/clubs have different engine rules and requirements, there is no "one pulling engine that conforms to each and every clubs' rules." Therefore, you may receive an engine that do not conform to your club's rules, and it may be built "above the rules". Meaning it's not legal within your club's rules and is illegal to run in the class you plan to pull it in (cheater engine). Or, the engine in question may be built "below the rules" so it's less competitive as an engine that is built legally to the max according to the rules. But I'll build your engine or an engine for you so it'll produce the maximum horsepower and torque in accordance with your club's rules, not less than what the rules allow. I also rebuild ordinary/stock lawn and garden equipment engines too, such as cast iron and cast aluminum block single- and twin-cylinder flathead, OHV and v-twin Briggs and Stratton, Kohler, Tecumseh and 2-cycle LawnBoy. I've never encountered an engine that I couldn't repair, rebuild or build-up for more power! Whenever I rebuild or build-up an engine, and if you would like to do so, I do whatever it takes so it'll produce the factory-rated horsepower or the maximum horsepower and torque, and last a long time. I go beyond what the repair manual says to do. I can get all the parts needed, too. I can build your engine so it'll be legal for the class you plan to pull in. And with my engine rebuilds and build-ups, you may not always win, but you'll look good trying! By the way - the surface of the exhaust area of a fresh-built engine may burn off the oil residue for a short time once it gets hot, but it'll stop after a while. It's nothing to worry about. This happens with most rebuilt engines, especially an engine with fresh paint. FYI - Being I'm the only person to read and respond to all my customer's emails (about 20 or so per day), take my customer's phone call orders (about 20-30 on a nice day with good weather), with customers stopping by my shop, repair and rebuild my customer's parts and engines in my shop, order parts from my suppliers, process orders, package parts then mail customer's parts at my local Post Office, etc., it may take A-1 Miller's several months to rebuild an engine. It takes time to perform precision machine work and manual workmanship on a pulling engine and I wouldn't want to do a rush job. I also have to depend on other local machine shops to balance engine parts and perform various machine work that I can't do myself. All this takes time. So please keep this in mind if you decide to have A-1 Miller's rebuild/build up your engine. Also, I don't like to rush on my customer's repair jobs. I'm very particular about my work, especially my engine builds. I like to take my time to make sure that everything is right, the engine will run right, produce full power and last a long time. I appreciate for you understanding my situation. FYI - Used OEM parts in good condition for older Kohler engines are hard to find now, especially the small parts. If the parts don't wear, they tend to get thrown away and then "engine scrappers" sell the parts that do wear on places like eBay. They don't think about people like me, who make a living by "piecing together" or building engines from scratch for a customer. I can purchase new parts from Kohler if they're still available, but that would be cost-prohibitive. I try to keep my engine builds at reasonable prices. - Brian Miller Things that can be done to a 10-16hp Kohler engine to greatly improve overall engine performance are:
Also, all of my customer's pulling engine builds are strictly confidential. This means your competition pulling will not know what goes into your engine! |
Below Ê are details and prices to rebuild your engine -
  Briggs and Stratton 16, 18 and 20hp opposed (flathead) twin
cylinder aluminum block engine (horizontal or vertical shaft) professional
rebuild to OEM factory specifications @ 3,600 governed RPM for general lawn
and garden use or mild competition pulling. The sheet metal will need
to be removed before bringing or shipping engine to A-1 Miller's.
Engine must be shipped in a sturdy
wooden crate. IMPORTANT: Click or tap here
for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt
engines. NOTE: If your engine doesn't smoke out the exhaust and
burn oil, then chances are, all it needs is a professional valve job performed.
We can do this instead of rebuilding your engine. The price is $300.00 for
parts and labor to perform the valve job, plus return shipping.
 Briggs and Stratton Vanguard
V-twin aluminum block engine (horizontal or vertical shaft) professional
rebuild to OEM factory specifications @ 3,600 governed RPM for general lawn
and garden use or mild competition pulling. The sheet metal will need
to be removed before bringing or shipping engine to A-1 Miller's.
Engine must be shipped in a sturdy
wooden crate. IMPORTANT: Click or tap here
for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt
engines.
|
  Tecumseh cast iron block engine models VH80, VH100, HH80,
HH100, HH120, OH140, OH150, OH160 and OH180 rebuild to OEM factory specifications
@ 3,600 governed RPM (for general lawn and garden use only). (Price depends
on size of engine and extent of wear.) The sheet metal will need to be
removed before bringing or shipping engine to A-1 Miller's.
Engine must be shipped in a sturdy
wooden crate. IMPORTANT: Click or tap here
for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt
engines.
|
 Kohler engine models K90/K91
cast iron block flathead engine professional rebuild to OEM factory
specifications @ 4,000± governed RPM (for general lawn and garden
use). The sheet metal will need to be removed before bringing or shipping
engine to A-1 Miller's. Engine
must be shipped in a sturdy wooden crate. IMPORTANT:
Click or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in)
oils and procedure for rebuilt engines.
  Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8 cast iron
block flathead engine professional rebuild to OEM factory specifications
@ 3,600 governed RPM for general lawn and garden use or mild competition
pulling. The sheet metal will need to be removed before bringing or
shipping engine to A-1 Miller's.
Engine must be shipped in a sturdy
wooden crate. IMPORTANT: Click or tap here
for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt
engines.
 Kohler K-series engine model
K361 OHV professional rebuild to OEM factory specifications up to 3,600 governed
RPM for general lawn and garden use or mild competition pulling. The
sheet metal will need to be removed before bringing or shipping engine to
A-1 Miller's. Engine must be shipped
in a sturdy wooden crate. IMPORTANT: Click
or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt
engines.
 Kohler KT-series and Magnum
opposed (flathead) twin cylinder Kohler engine models KT17, KT17 Series II,
KT19, KT19 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Professional rebuild
to OEM factory specifications @ up to 3,600 governed RPM for general lawn
and garden use or mild competition pulling. The sheet metal will need
to be removed before bringing or shipping engine to A-1 Miller's.
Engine must be shipped in a sturdy
wooden crate. IMPORTANT: Click or tap here
for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt
engines.
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A-1 Miller's Kohler Competition Pulling Engine Building | Top of page
The below Ê are high output engines, built and designed for competition pulling only, not general lawn and garden use. No charging system included. 10hp (K241), 12hp (K301), 14hp (K321) or 16hp (K341) Kohler engines built by Brian Miller. The "Built to the Max" Stock class engines runs at 4,000± governored RPM; has a 9-1/2" cast flywheel with majority of fins removed then dynamically and precision spin-balanced; high torque upper mount gear starter (mounting bolts are below the starter motor); performance valve job with stock size valves; A-1 Miller's reground/torque cam; medium performance valve springs; #26 or #30 Kohler carburetor (depending on engine size) bored-out, reworked and set up for gas; enlarged ports and polished (intake port made larger only if it is smaller in diameter than the carburetor throttle bore); 2nd or 3rd generation cylinder head milled .050"; connecting rod bored .020" offset for piston pop out with bearing inserts. Also included are: flywheel shroud (not chrome plated), cast iron or aluminum oil pan, bolt-on header pipe and conventional Kohler point ignition system installed with ignition timing preset. And being there is no oil filter on Kohler cast iron block engines, an oil drain plug with a very strong rare earth/neodymium magnet, or a very strong rare earth/neodymium magnet will be glued to the inside bottom of the oil pan or engine base to attract and remove ferrous metallic wear fragments from the motor oil to clean the oil so the engine will last much longer. Because some of the ferrous metal wear fragments settle to the bottom of the oil pan or engine block and do not drain out with the oil when performing an oil change, even when the oil is hot. An innovative and ingenious concept by Brian Miller because nobody else advertise this trick online for a pulling engine. A-1 Miller's rebuilt engines will be painted with high quality gloss black, unless the customer specifies a different color or no paint at all. When you receive the engine, install it in the tractor, add motor oil to the proper level, install the fuel hose, add fuel, connect the ignition and starter wires, connect the throttle controls, and the engine will be ready to start. Carburetor adjustments will be initially preset, but due to the altitude level, barometric pressure and air temperature, final idle speed, idle air/fuel mixture and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments may need to be made after the engine is started and warmed up. It'll have no charging system. Use a remote battery charger to recharge the battery before each pulling event. 4,000 RPM "Built to the Max" Stock-Appearing Pulling Engines below - built for competition pulling only and to your pulling association/club's sanctioning rules. In addition to all the essentials, prices below include a heavy (ring gear) steel flywheel and new high torque gear starter motor (Kohler style). Custom crank trigger ignition or $100 to build a sturdy wooden shipping crate and shipping & handling is extra charge. Or you can visit A-1 Miller's shop to drop off and pick up your engine to save on crating and shipping charges. IMPORTANT: Click or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines.
Hot Stock or Sport Stock Pulling Engines - built to your pulling association/club's sanctioning rules. The Hot Stock class engines has an OEM Kohler block; runs at wide open throttle (no governor); 9-1/2" 25 lb. steel flywheel; high torque upper mount gear starter (mounting bolts are below the starter motor); A-1 Miller's Hot Stock/Stock-Altered welded-up and reground cast camshaft; single high performance valve springs; performance valve job with stock size valves; #26 or #30 Kohler carburetor (depending on engine size) bored-out, reworked, set up for gas with bottom main fuel adjuster; enlarged ports and polished (if the intake port is smaller in diameter than the carburetor throttle bore); 2nd or 3rd generation cylinder head milled .050"; connecting rod bored .020" offset for piston pop out with bearing inserts; rotating assembly (crankshaft and connecting rod/piston assembly) precision spin-balanced to reduce engine vibration. Also included are: flywheel shroud (not chrome plated), cast iron oil pan, bolt-on header pipe and conventional Kohler point ignition system installed with ignition timing preset. Upon receiving engine, install in tractor, add fluids and engine will be ready to start after all connections are made. Carburetor adjustments will be initially preset, but due to the altitude level, barometric pressure and air temperature, final adjustments may need to be made after engine is started. Prices below Ê do not include $100 for crating and shipping & handling. You can visit A-1 Miller's shop to drop off and pick up your engine to save on crating and shipping charges. IMPORTANT: Click or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines. Add $110.00 - $152.00 for installation of A-1 Miller's custom crank trigger or flywheel triggered electronic ignition system.
Competition Pulling Engine Freshening Service Ê This service is for competition pulling engines only that have been previously built, and needs the basic parts and labor to revive the power. It is not a complete engine rebuild. A typical pulling engine will last an average of 25 pulls or 3 years of use. After that, the piston rings become worn, and the engine may lose power when under load and puff gray/blue smoke out the exhaust and/or crankcase breather vent. When this happens, it's time for a freshening job. If interested, we will need an updated copy of your association/club's engine rules so when the engine is freshened, it will be legal in its class, but still competitive. Click or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines. Add $110.00 - $152.00 for installation of A-1 Miller's custom crank trigger or flywheel triggered electronic ignition system. (For competition pulling only.) A deposit may be required on certain engine refresh jobs. Balance due upon completion of engine. Top of page Freshen Stock "Built to the Max" 10-16hp 4,000± RPM Governored Kohler pulling engine. Includes install new high quality ring set or piston and rings; clean and reseat valves or perform 3-angle high flow performance valve job; install new bearing inserts; clean, rebuild or bore-out/rework carburetor; mill the cylinder head; install our reground 4,000 RPM torque performance camshaft; new gaskets and oil seals. Total price depends on which parts & how much labor the engine needs, plus return shipping & handling. Freshen Hot-Stock or Stock-Altered 12-16hp Kohler engine. Includes install new high quality ring set or piston and rings; clean and reseat valves or perform 3-angle high flow performance valve job; new bearing inserts; clean, rebuild or bore-out/rework carburetor; if needed, install our welded up and reground Hot-Stock/Stock-Altered performance camshaft; new gaskets and oil seals. Total price depends on which parts & how much labor the engine needs, plus return shipping & handling. Freshen NQS 30 c.i. Kohler engine. Includes install new high quality ring set or piston and rings; clean and reseat valves or perform 3-angle high flow performance valve job; new bearing inserts; clean or rebuild carburetor; install new up-to-date performance camshaft; new gaskets and oil seals. Total price depends on which parts & how much labor the engine needs, plus return shipping & handling. Freshen 16hp Missouri Super Stock 16hp Kohler engine. Includes install new high quality ring set or piston and rings; clean and reseat valves or perform 3-angle high flow performance valve job; new bearing inserts; clean or rebuild carburetor; new up-to-date performance camshaft; new gaskets and oil seals. Total price depends on which parts & how much labor the engine needs, plus return shipping & handling. Freshen 50.5 c.i. Modified Kohler engine. Includes install new high quality ring set or piston and rings; clean and reseat valves or perform 3-angle high flow performance valve job; new bearing inserts; clean or rebuild carburetor; new up-to-date performance camshaft; new gaskets and oil seals. Total price depends on which parts & how much labor the engine needs, plus return shipping & handling. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any of the above È parts or services. |
|
Break-In (Wear-In) Oils and Procedure for Ordinary
Rebuilt (Lawn and Garden) Engines -
First of all, full synthetic/organic motor oil will allow an engine to run cooler and last longer. But the rule of thumb for different types of motor oils are: Full synthetic motor oil is mainly for high performance/racing engines that operate at high RPMs for a long time. Synthetic blend motor oil, which is a blend of about 50% organic and 50% petroleum, is for engines that occasionally operate at high RPMs, but also operate at normal speeds. And conventional/petroleum motor oil is safe to use just for engines that operate at normal speeds at all times.
If the tractor is geared correctly, the pulling engines I build should not run out of power at the end of the pull. It should spin the tires. But there's some things that needs to be checked after a few pulls as the engine breaks-in and parts wear into each other. For gas fuels, the ignition timing needs to be set at 22º BTDC. And make sure the high speed air/fuel mixture screw is set so the engine runs smooth at high RPM. Also, if a high-output/performance ignition coil is used, it requires two standard capacity (Kohler) condensers/capacitors or one heavy duty, high capacity/performance condenser/capacitor. This is so the coil will produce more voltage. And with a high-output/performance coil, the spark plug gap can be set at .060". With an ordinary coil, it should be set at .035". The valve to lifter clearances may need to be reset at .010" for the intake and .014" for the exhaust. Furthermore, when a new or rebuilt engine needs to "break-in", what the term "break-in" actually means is the moving internal parts that make contact with each other needs to "wear-in" with each other so they'll produce a wear pattern and last longer. Any new or rebuilt engine, rather if it's for general lawn and garden use or for competition pulling, needs to fully break-in (wear-in) for it to produce full power. Rings don't "seat," they break-in (wear-in), or wear-in with the cylinder wall, and they wear-in quickly. But the valves are the parts that needs to "seat." Being the valve faces and seats have different angles (30º/31º or 45º/46º, respectively), the valve faces needs to wear into the seats to seal in the compression 100%. Wear-in will produce a 30½º or 45½º angle on both the matching valve face and seat. The harder material the valves are made of, the longer it takes for them to "seat" or wear-into the seats. Some pullers tell A-1 Miller's that the engines I built for them run better every time they pull them. I remember a few years ago when I performed a valve job on my truck engine. It ran good and produced plenty of power, but I noticed after about 1,000 or so miles, it produced a little more power. I realized that this is because the valve faces wore into the seats, forming a perfect seal. So again, a fresh-built pulling engine will not produce full power the first few times it's ran. Go here for more information: Valvoline.com FAQs Motor Oil Car Racing Oil. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website] |
NOTES:
Ship the Engine in a Sturdy Wooden Crate - [Return To Previous Paragraph, Section or Website]
If you bring an engine to
A-1 Miller's in person, place it in an old automotive tire to keep it from
moving around during transportation. And please let A-1 Miller's know first
so I can expect your arrival. But if you decide to ship your engine to me,
I don't need everything on it. Just the parts that can wear and need rebuilding
or reconditioning, such as the gear starter, cylinder head(s), crankcase
breather assembly, fuel pump and carburetor. I need the oil pan on it too,
to prevent any dust and dirt from entering the crankcase after the rebuild.
Please remove the sheet metal and PTO clutch/pulley, too. I'll need the flywheel
on the engine so I can set the ignition timing. Please send or bring your
engine when you're ready to the address below
Ê.
To ship your engine to A-1 Miller's, first off, do not use the USPS, UPS or FedEx Express! We and our customers have had too many problems with these shippers in the past. Their clumsy, incompetent and uncaring "gorilla" workers have a tendency to damage heavy items, and the shipping company's insurance never pay off. The shipping company claim that the damaged item, which was in their possession, is "not their fault." They are very careless with heavy packages when they handle them. The packages are placed on conveyor-belt systems and they seem to always drop the heavy ones off of the elevated conveyors, which usually destroys whatever is inside them. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your [irreplaceable] high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally drop off and/or pick up your engine, transaxle, tractor, etc., for modifying, rebuilding or repairs.
If shipping an engine, and if the crated engine weighs no more than 150 lbs., use only FedEx Ground or Fastenal for dependability. The average crated cast iron block Kohler engine weighs just under 150 lbs. Use this website to calculate the shipping cost for your engine: FedEx Rates and Transit Times. Contact your local FedEx Ground or Fastenal shipping center for more details and to schedule a pickup or drop off the crated engine at your local FedEx Ground or Fastenal shipping center. FedEx Ground is the only reasonably-priced shipping service that I know of for items up to 150 lbs. UPS, US Mail only ship up to 70 lbs. And FedEx Freight would cost almost as much as an engine is worth. If your engine is too heavy to go with FedEx Ground, partially disassemble it and send the lightweight parts in a USPS Large or Medium Flat Rate Box, and then send the main short block with FedEx Ground, the crated engine can be shipped through Fastenal. This also works better to save money on shipping costs. You can visit A-1 Miller's shop to drop off and pick up your engine to save on crating and shipping charges.
Do not use a cardboard box alone
the ship a heavy engine! Crate it well and any other parts with it securely
so they won't get damaged or lost in shipping. A sturdy and well-constructed
wooden crate can be ordered from:
Crates,
Wooden Crate in Stock - ULINE. But to construct your own sturdy wooden
shipping crate, use 2x2's or 2x4's lumber for the frame work, with 1/4" plywood
or 1/2" chipboard as outer covering (do not use cardboard for covering because
another person's package could penetrate it and cause damage the engine inside),
and a couple of 2x4's or a cut-down
shipping pallet on the bottom so a forklift can move it
without damage. Make the crate compact as possible so it'll take up less
space, save on shipping charges and so it'll be easier to move around in
our shop. Fasten the engine oil pan mounting bolt holes to two sturdy 2x4's
on the base of the crate securely with 3/8" diameter bolts with wide flat
washers. It's also very important to install 2x4 wood bracing all around
the engine cylinder (front, rear and each side) stabilize it in the crate.
And for easy engine removal, PLEASE use
Phillips head drywall/sheetrock screws or better yet, use
hex head 1/4" lag bolts w/flat washers to fasten everything
on and in the crate. Be sure to include a note in a sealed plastic bag with
your name, complete and correct postal address, phone number, email address
(in case I have any questions) and a detailed description of how you want
the engine built and what it will be used for, and mention in the note any
other parts you may need.
When the work is completed, I'll contact you with the total including return shipping & handling. For payment options for parts ordered or services performed, or to make a donation to my websites, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge), Western Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram Money Transfers. (If the engine is for a specific purpose and parts must be special ordered, full payment will be required right after your order is placed or your debit/credit card will be charged for the full amount or as a deposit.) Or you can pay A-1 Miller's through PayPal. My PayPal account name is my email address, and be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment is for. If sending a money order or cashier's check, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete mailing address, phone number and a description of what the payment is for. My mailing address and phone number are below Ê. And I will ship your rebuilt engine/parts to you as soon as I receive your payment.
To ship a transaxle, this is easier. They don't require an enclosed crate. Just place the transaxle on the center of a shipping pallet (of the appropriate size) and stretch wrap (use low-cost ratchet nylon tie-downs) to securely fasten it to the pallet. Use at least 6 layers of stretch wrap or several tie-downs. This should work really well. The shipping weight of a Cub Cadet cast iron case transaxle when strapped to a wooden pallet is approximately 215 lbs. [Return To Previous Paragraph, Section or Website]
A-1 Miller's Computerized Stuska Water Brake Engine Dynamometer (Dyno) Service with DPM Data Logger Software to Test Horsepower and Torque! | Top of page
For performance testing of 10-16hp
single cylinder Kohler stock or competition pulling engines at speeds up
to 12,000 RPM. The only dyno service for testing Kohler pulling engines in
central Missouri. Two uncontaminated fuel tanks with an electric fuel pump
- one for gas and another for methanol. Fully operational and 100% accurate,
customers can rent dyno time, fine tune and make adjustments or changes to
their engines to gain maximum horsepower and torque, and print-out the results
so their tractor(s) will be truly competitive on the track. With an engine
dyno, the puller can adjust their engine to get maximum horsepower and torque,
and gear their tractor appropriately to have an advantage over the competition.
NOTE: A fresh-built engine may not produce full power until it's broke-in.
This is when the valves wear-in with the seats to completely seal in the
compression. The rings will likely hold the compression, but the valves may
leak slightly until they wear into the seats. This is normal for all engines
and may take several hours or pulls to happen, then the valves will be able
to hold full compression. Lots of pullers tell A-1 Miller's after I've built
their engines that it seems to pull stronger every time they pull it.
Engine Dyno Rental Fee: $50.00 per hour run time from the moment the engine is started. No setup fee for Cub Cadet engines with a 3- or 6-pin/stud clutch driver. An adapter may need to be needed or fabricated for other makes and models of engines. Only engines with the narrow base oil pan can be tested. Engines with the wide base (tall) oil pan cannot be tested at this time. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]
Coming Soon - Detailed
Illustrated Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back and Self-Propelled
Garden Tractor Pulling Sled. FYI - The
professionally-built self-propelled pulling sled, Track Master (click the
picture to the right to see a larger image of this sled), is the only one
I've ever built and I got it right the first time, with very few changes
that had to be made to it. I guess I'm just one of those kind of guys that
knows what he's doing. Pullers really like pulling our sled, too. They say
it's the best sled they've ever pulled. (Not bragging, just stating a fact.)
By the way - Track Master sled is engineered so well (by Brian Miller), that
other sled builders/owners have copied our well thought-out and proven design.
Anyway, I have lots of work to do in my shop and I work on the sled plans
in my spare time. As soon as my plans with an inventory list of parts to
use are perfected, I'll post the update in my websites. Remember - Perfection
takes time. If it's worth having, it's worth waiting for. Also, I plan to
acquire a bigger shop and I may build high quality garden tractor pulling
sleds in the future to offer for sale. Please call A-1 Miller's at 573-256-0313
(shop) or 573-881-7229 (cell; text or voice message), or email A-1 Miller's
at pullingtractor@aol.com if
interested. - Brian Miller
If you would
like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website,
and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance and support,
please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank
Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. When
you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with
the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to the
public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we
can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
[Return To Previous Paragraph, Section
or Website]
We Ship to Canada and Worldwide 
-
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent
by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged
item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service
Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal
Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S.
territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground
or equivalent services. We try to keep our shipping cost to customers within
reason. Therefore, we don't ship our products in a fancy-looking package
with our company name and/or logo on it because most customers will just
toss it in the trash after they remove the contents.
(When placing an order through PayPal, please provide a list of which
parts you need.)
To make a payment to A-1 Miller's through PayPal, go to PayPal's secure website ( https://www.paypal.com/ ) and click on Send and Request -> Pay for goods or services. Type in my email address, or copy and paste this: pullingtractor@aol.com, the amount and follow the directions. Be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment is for. After you've finished, PayPal will send A-1 Miller's an email notifying me that you have made a payment to A-1 Miller's for the product(s) or services and amount entered. Then I go to their website and direct PayPal to deposit the money in my bank account. And I will send the parts to you as soon as I receive your payment. But I may have to order some of the parts if they're not in stock, which should take a few days. In that case, I will send you the parts as soon as they come in. PayPal protects your financial privacy and security. With PayPal, privacy is built in. It's a way for you to pay without exposing their financial information.
Lever-Action
Solid Wire Remote Throttle Control Cable Assemblies. Panel mount. Fits virtually
all wide and spread frame Cub Cadet garden tractors Cub Cadet garden tractors
Cub Cadet models 86, 108, 109, 128, 129, 149, 169, 800, 1000, 1100, 1200,
1250, 1450 and 1650.
Throttle Control Cable Assembly.
Panel mount. Fits Cub Cadet models 582, 1050, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1282, 1710,
1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1872 and 2072.
Push/Pull Solid Wire Remote
Choke Control Cable Assemblies for all wide and spread frame Cub Cadet garden
tractors.
Choke Control Cable Assembly.
Fits Cub Cadet models 482, 682, 782, 784, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811,
1812 and 2072. Not available in aftermarket.
Steel Thrust Washer for governor
cross shaft above È.
Steel Spacer for governor cross
shaft above È. Dimensions: .260" i.d.
x .372" o.d. x 13/16" length. INSTALLATION NOTE: This part can be replaced
without disassembling the engine. Spacer goes between lever and governor
shaft bushing. Spacer installs on cross shaft from outside of block, then
bushing goes on next. Its purpose is to keep the lever centered with the
governor gear.
Oil Seal Installation Drivers/Tools.
Made specifically for Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14,
K341/M16 and K361. Use with medium size hammer to safely drive oil seal into
counterbore with crankshaft in or out of engine. When installed, flywheel
end driver positions seal 3/8" below surface of large bearing plate (with
the 15/20 amp charging stator), and PTO driver positions seal 1/4" below
surface of engine block. Machined by A-1 Miller's.
PTO End Crankshaft Oil Seal
for Kohler horizontal shaft opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engine models
KT19, KT19 Series II, M20, K482, K532 and K582. Dimensions: 1.642" i.d. x
2.500" o.d. Included in complete engine rebuild gasket set below
Ê. IMPORTANT: Apply clean motor oil,
gear oil or lubricating grease in lip of seal before installing to keep seal
lubricated and cool until crankcase oil can reach it. With no prior lubrication,
the dry rubber will get hot from friction and burn away, causing an oil
leak.
Magnum and K-series "new style"
rod. This particular forged rod has a thicker beam section, which makes
it just as strong as a billet rod, and with bearing inserts installed, it's
suitable for high RPM and wide open throttle engine operation. And when used
with a factory type piston with a thin-wall wrist pin, the rotating assembly
will not need to be rebalanced. OEM Kohler part # 45 067 24-S.
$118.55 each, plus shipping & handling.
12-24 UNC x 3/16" Allen Set
Screws. Apply with
12-24 UNC Taper Hand Tap. Use
to cut threads in the drilled oil galley holes to install the above set screws.
$10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Exhaust Valves for Kohler engine
models K141, K160/K161 and K181/M8. Dimensions: head diameter: 1-1/8"; overall
length: 4.056"; stem diameter: .309"; 45º face angle.
High Quality Aftermarket K361
Valve. Can be used as intake or exhaust valve. Heat-treated, hardened steel.
Dimensions: head diameter: 1.437"; overall length: 4.165"±; face angle:
45º. Has 8mm chrome-plated stem. Requires 8mm
Intake or Exhaust Valves for
Kohler engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, MV16, M18 and MV18. Intake valves
discontinued from Kohler.
Intake or Exhaust Valves for
Kohler engine models KT19, KT19 Series II, M20 and MV20. Dimensions: head
diameter: 1.380"; overall length: 3.926"; stem diameter: .314"; comes
with a 45º face angle for a 46º seat, but can be reground to 30º
angle for a 31º seat, or seat can be reground to 46º to match the
45º face angle. Requires 8mm 
Valve Lapping Tools. Use either
tool to rotate valve in seat by hand with
Stock (centered) Cast Iron Valve
Guides for Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161 and K181/M8. Dimensions:
.310" i.d. x .5645" o.d. x 1.686" overall length. NOTE: Use my
Stock (centered) Cast Iron Valve
Guides for Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16, K482,
K532 and K582. Dimensions: .310" i.d. x .629" o.d. x 2.135" overall length.
NOTE: Use my 
Stock (centered) Cast Iron Valve
Guides for Kohler engine models MV16, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series
II, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part
# 52 316 08-S. NOTE: Use my 
When used in Kohler flathead
engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14 or K341/M16, this particular cam
profile design provides more torque (lugging power) and improved engine
performance from 3,400 to 3,800 RPM. Suitable for heavy yard and garden work,
or for stock competition pulling. The lobes on this cam are not welded up.
They are professionally reground to have the factory stock lift (.324"),
but have slightly less duration than the 4,000± RPM reground torque
cam below, which makes it perform best at a lower RPM range. This cam builds
up the compression about 4% more at 3,600 RPM than the stock flathead engine
cams. It's ideal for general lawn and garden work, snow removal and/or in
a limited RPM stock competition pulling engine. Due to the low RPM range,
it can be used with factory stock valve springs. No need for performance
springs. Set the valve clearances at .010" for the intake and .014" for the
exhaust. This cam profile is Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces OEM Kohler
part # 45 010 05-S.
For Kohler engine models K241/M10,
K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361. This particular cam profile design
provides more torque (lugging power) and improved engine performance from
3,800 to 4,200 RPM. Suitable for stock competition pulling. The lobes on
this cam are not welded up. They are professionally reground to have the
factory stock lift (.324"), but slightly increased duration than the 18hp
RPM cam above, which makes it perform best at a slightly higher RPM range.
This cam will pass tech for a stock cam. It will add about 3 more horsepower
and 2 ft. lbs. of torque to an average stock engine with more lugging power
than the OEM Kohler K361 cam. This cam builds up the compression about 6%
more than the K361 cam, and approximately 11% more than the flathead engine
cams at around 4,000 RPM. This cam sounds just like an OEM Kohler stock cam.
You can't hear the difference out the exhaust. It's perfect for a competing
stock pulling tractor or for heavy lawn and garden work.
Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10,
K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 Pulling Engines. This is a more aggressive
camshaft than above È. Lobes are
hard-surface welded on an OEM Kohler cast cam, then professionally precision
ground to give it the stock lift (.324"-.330"), but more duration.
Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10,
K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 Pulling Engines. This is a much more
aggressive camshaft than above È. Lobes
are hard-surface welded on an OEM Kohler cast cam, then professionally precision
ground to give it a stock lift (.324"-.330"), but much more duration
(290º).
OEM Kohler Valve Springs for Kohler K-series and Magnum engine
models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16, K361, K482, K532 and K582.
Each has dampening end to lessen harmonic vibrations at higher RPMs. Recommended
for general lawn and garden use. Suitable for up to 3,600± RPM with
cam having stock lift. Most Kohler engines have the short valve spring (1-9/16")
with the rotator on the exhaust valve (to scrape away any carbon deposits),
and the long spring (1-3/4") with the stamped steel retainer on the intake
valve. NOTE: Used valve springs rarely lose adequate pressure. They can
be reused as long as they're not rusted. The rust-pitted areas is a weak
spot and when in operation and under pressure, the spring could break.
OEM Kohler Valve Spring specially
designed for Kohler KT-series and Magnum engine models MV16, KT17, KT17 Series
II, KT19, KT19 Series II, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Has no dampening end.
Recommended for general lawn and garden use. Suitable for up to 3,600±
RPM with cam having stock lift.
OEM Kohler Valve Rotator for
Exhaust Valve Spring. Fits Kohler K-series and Magnum K141, K160/K161, K181/M8,
K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19,
KT19 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20, K482, K532 and K582. Also fits
6hp-18hp single and opposed (flathead) twin cylinder Briggs and Stratton
engines exhaust valves. For 5/16" diameter valve stems. Accepts 7º
Valve Lifter (Tappet) for Kohler
K-series and Magnum single cylinder flathead engine models K141, K160/K161,
K181 and M8. 1.964" overall length for exhaust valve only and newer
one-piece camshaft with automatic compression release (ACR).
Non-adjustable. Grind end of valve stems with piston at TDC on compression
stroke to set valve clearances. Discontinued from Kohler. OEM Kohler part
# 230013-S.
Valve
Lifters (Tappets) for Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14 and
K341/M16. Dimensions - stem diameter: .6225", base diameter: 1.060", overall
length: 2.750"-3.000" (adjustable). Use for OEM Kohler stock or performance
cams with up to .340" lift. Set valve clearances with piston at TDC on
compression stroke. OEM Kohler part # D-235327-S.
Valve Lifter (Tappet) for Kohler
engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, MV18 (w/specification
#'s 58560, 58561) and MV20 (w/specification #'s 57527, 57528). Used with
serial number 1917809285 and before. 2.895" overall length. Discontinued
from Kohler. OEM Kohler part #'s 52 019 01-S, 52 019
02 -S. (The OEM [US] manufacturers are phasing out many parts for
flathead engines due to EPA smog emissions. But some parts may still be available
in aftermarket.)
Valve Adjusting Screw for Kohler
engine model K361. A-1 Miller's high quality aftermarket part. Made of
heat-treated, hardened steel. Requires 1/4-20 UNC ordinary locking nut. Replaces
Kohler part # 45 086 02-S. (No longer available.)
Camshaft End
Shims/Spacers/
Crankcase Breather Reed Valve
for Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K330/K331, K321/M14, K341/M16
and K361. Replace damaged or rusted reed valve to prevent loss of oil through
breather vent hole, prevent outside dust and dirt from being drawn into
crankcase, and maintain crankcase vacuum so engine will produce more power.
OEM Kohler part # 235047-S.
Old Style Replacement Neoprene
Rubber Umbrella Check Valve and Crankcase Breather Plate w/Umbrella Check
Valve used on Kohler KT-series and Magnum opposed twin cylinder engine models
KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20.
Replace deteriorated rubber umbrella check valve to prevent loss of oil through
breather vent hole, prevent outside dust and dirt from entering crankcase
and maintain crankcase vacuum so engine will produce more power. NOTE:
The old style breather with the umbrella valve works just as well as the
new style breather with the steel reed valve. So if the umbrella valve of
your breather is bad, it can be replaced. Also, it cost less to just replace
the umbrella valve than the whole breather plate with the steel reed valve.
New-Style Crankcase Breather
Plate with Steel Reed Valve for Kohler KT-series and Magnum opposed twin
cylinder engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, MV16,
M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Each replaces OEM Kohler part # 52 254 07. NOTE:
The two items listed below Ê are basically
the same with different part numbers and prices.
Crankcase Breather Cover for
Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16
and K361. Replace bent, damaged or rusted cover to prevent leaking oil. Accepts
PCV breather vent tube that connects to oblong-shaped metal air cleaner base.
OEM Kohler part # 47 096 01-S.
1/4" NPT x 1/2" Barb 90º
Angle Breather Fitting to convert Quiet Line PCV crankcase breather cover
above È to open atmospheric vent. Use
1/4" NPT hand tap to cut threads in cover to accept this fitting. Made of
brass.
Crankcase Breather Cover Studs
for Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K330/K331, K321/M14, K341/M16,
K361, and #1 Cylinder Breather Cover Studs for KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19,
KT19 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Dimensions: 1/4-20 UNC (coarse
thread) x 3-1/4" length.
#2 Cylinder Valve Spring Cover
(Plate) Studs for Kohler KT-series and Magnum engine models KT17, KT17 Series
II, KT19, KT19 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Dimensions: 1/4-20
UNC (coarse thread) x 2-1/4" long.
OEM Kohler Cylinder Head Studs
for Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14 and K341/M16. Dimensions
of each stud: 3/8-16 UNC (coarse thread) threads; 3-1/4" overall length;
short threaded length: 5/8"; long threaded length: 1-7/8". IMPORTANT:
As with any threaded stud, apply
Steel Spacer for Studs Above.
Use with OEM Kohler single cylinder engine cylinder heads with the recessed
bolt hole bosses when using a gas tank mounting bracket or other kind of
flat bracket. Replaces discontinued Kohler part #'s 25 112 14-S and X-400-71-S.
Dimensions: 13/32" i.d. x 5/8" o.d. x 23/32" height.
9-1/2" diameter OEM Kohler flywheel
for engine models K241-K361. Used and in excellent condition. With full fins,
with internal charging magnets for 5-1/2" o.d. stator. For general lawn and
garden use. Has narrow edge. This flywheel is for points/condenser
ignition only, not Breakerless, magneto, solid state ignition or flywheel-trigger
electronic trigger ignition. In excellent condition and unaltered. No crack
in the keyway, no broken or missing fins. This flywheel
is for stock engines only; not to be turned above 4,000 RPM!
Discontinued from Kohler. OEM Kohler part #'s 47 025 22-S or 47 025 24-S.
Cub Cadet hub adapters with
5/8" center hole (early K-series), w/o pulley, w/dowel pin.
Square Flywheel Keys for Kohler
engine models K141, K160, K161, K181, M8, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, KT17,
KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20 made
1973 and later. Dimensions: 3/16" square x 1-3/8" length.
1/4" NPT (Tapered Threads) Magnetic
Oil Drain Plug. Fits various Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh and Kohler engines.
A-1 Miller part. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # X-75-2.
$5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
3/8" NPT (Tapered Threads) Magnetic
Oil Drain Plug. Fits various Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh and Kohler engines.
A-1 Miller part. High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # X-305-4-S.
$5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
3/4-10 UNC (Straight Threads)
Magnetic Oil Drain Plug. Use to replace OEM Kohler 3/8" NPT oil drain plug
with stripped threads in [aluminum] oil pan. Comes with fiber sealing gasket.
NOTE: Threads in oil pan must be enlarged with a 3/4-10 UNC hand tap.
A-1 Miller part. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
5/8" i.d. Fiber Sealing Gasket
for OEM Kohler 3/8" NPT Oil Drain Plug with Hex Head. Discontinued from Kohler.
Replaces Kohler part # 241063. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Drill and tap two 5/16-18 UNC
bolt holes in exhaust mounting flange to install custom-made bolt-on exhaust
system or header pipe flange. NOTE: Crankshaft and bearing plate will
need to be removed from engine block so I can fasten block directly to table
or in a V-shaped fixture to the table of my milling machine. An
innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this type
of service for a Kohler engine block.
Resurface exhaust mounting flange
to ensure 100% sealing of header flange and to prevent flange from loosening
from block (due to rusted rough surface). NOTE: Crankshaft and bearing
plate will need to be removed from engine block. Then with block fastened
directly to table or in a V-shaped fixture fastened to the table of my milling
machine, I make several passes with a grinding stone to resurface end of
exhaust port. An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because
nobody else advertise this type of service for a Kohler engine
block.
Two 5/16-18 UNC (coarse thread)
Hex Socket (Allen) Head bolts for above È
flange.
Exhaust Pipe or Header Pipe
Mounting Flanges. Each made of mild steel. No gasket is required. Fastens
directly to engine block with
Heavy Duty Exhaust Pipe or Header
Pipe Mounting Flange for Kohler engine models K341/M16. If no bolt holes
exist next to exhaust port, two 5/16-18 UNC (coarse thread) threaded holes
will need to be 
Two 5/16-18 UNC (coarse thread)
stainless stain hex-head bolts with flat washers for above
È flange.
Install oversize valves in
single cylinder OEM [Kohler] block: $150.00 - $200.00 (depending
size of valves) labor, plus return shipping & handling. Price does
not include any parts.
Resurface air-cooled small engine
cylinder head on large disc sander or wide, flat belt sander to remove warpage
and restore flatness, and deburr sharp edge around combustion chamber.
$10.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling.
Repair loose valve seat with
a new bronze valve seat. FYI - Bronze grips or adheres to aluminum much
better than steel. Plus, it's harder than cast iron. $75.00 each
for parts and labor, plus return shipping & handing.
Gasket Kit to Reinstall
K361 Cylinder Head on Engine. (Updated 5/27/19)
High quality
aftermarket. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # 45 052 02-S.
$24.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241, K301, K321,
K341, M10, M12, M14 and M16 professional rebuild to OEM factory specifications
up to 3,600 governed RPM for general lawn and garden use or mild competition
pulling. The sheet metal will need to be removed before bringing or
shipping engine to A-1 Miller's.
Kohler engine models K482, K532
and K582 opposed (flathead) twin cylinder (flathead) engines. Professional
rebuild to OEM factory specifications @ up to 3,600 governed RPM for general
lawn and garden use or mild competition pulling. The sheet metal will
need to be removed before bringing or shipping engine to A-1 Miller's.
Kohler Command and Command
Pro V-Twin Engine Models CH18, CH20, CH22, CH23, CH25, CH620, CH621, CH640,
CH641, CH670, CH680, CH730, CH740, CH750, CH940, CH960, CH980 and CH1000.
Professional Stock Rebuild or Mild Buildup for Competition Pulling. The sheet
metal will need to be removed before bringing or shipping engine to A-1 Miller's.
Garden tractor pulling engine technology has
changed a lot through the years. We can rebuild your competition pulling
engine with new technological parts so it'll produce more power, be more
competitive on the track and last longer than anticipated.
