The K341/M16 Cylinder Head
-
The K341 cylinder head is in a class all by itself. It has the depression
and D-shaped combustion chamber. They have the spark plug located directly
over the exhaust valve. The compression ratio is 7.4:1. It requires 1-1/2"
length bolts. And there are no "LP" type K341 cylinder heads. And ALL
K341/M16 cylinder heads have the spark plug located over the exhaust valve.
No exceptions. OEM Kohler part # 45 015 09-S. The head too, has the spark
plug located directly over the exhaust valve. And there are two reasons why
Kohler did this:
-
It prevents cold-starting incoming raw fuel from fouling the spark plug.
-
It helps produce more engine power and torque when under a heavy load by
retaining the majority of the combustion heat in one area.
Kohler Cylinder Head Identification and Cub Cadet Applications:
Kohler K-series engine model K241. OEM Kohler part # 235461, Cub Cadet part
# IH-385303-R1. LP head; Discontinued Originally came on the 1965 and earlier
Cub Cadet model 100, and other makes and models of garden tractors and small
engine equipment. Requires 2-1/4" length bolts (Kohler part # 271077 -
Discontinued from Kohler) with no mounting bracket(s) under the bolt head,
and 2-1/2" length bolts (Kohler part # 235175-S) with [gas tank] mounting
bracket or other mounting brackets/plates under the bolt head.
Kohler K-series engine model K241. OEM Kohler part #'s 236546-S. Either head
originally came on various Cub Cadet models 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107,
108, 109 or 1000, and other makes and models of garden tractors and small
engine equipment. This head is no longer available from Kohler. Requires
2-1/4" length bolts (Kohler part # 271077 - Discontinued from Kohler) with
no mounting bracket(s) under the bolt head, and 2-1/2" length bolts (Kohler
part # 235175-S) with [gas tank] mounting bracket or other mounting
brackets/plates under the bolt head.
Kohler K-series engine models K301 and K321. OEM Kohler part #'s 237670-S
(Discontinued from Kohler; or 237827-S. Either head originally came on various
Cub Cadet models 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 680, 1200,
1250, 1282 or 1450, and other makes and models of garden tractors and small
engine equipment. Both heads require 1-1/2" length bolts, w/centered spark
plug).
Kohler K-series engine model K341 (including M16 Magnum engine). OEM Kohler
part # 45 015 09-S. Originally came on Cub Cadet models 169 and 1650, and
other makes and models of garden tractors and small engine equipment. Requires
1-1/2" length bolts (OEM Kohler part # 25 086 115-S), w/offset spark plug
hole.
Kohler Magnum engine model M10. OEM Kohler part #'s 237670, 47 015 05-S.
Originally came on Cub Cadet model 1050. Requires 1-1/2" length bolts (OEM
Kohler part # 25 086 115-S), w/offset spark plug hole.
Kohler Magnum engine models M12 and M14. OEM Kohler part # 47 015 06-S.
(Discontinued from Kohler; Requires 1-1/2" length bolts (OEM Kohler part
# 25 086 115-S), w/offset spark plug hole.)
Compression Ratios for Factory Stock Kohler K-series and Magnum Engines
with an OEM Kohler Cylinder Head are as follows:
K90/K91 (4hp) - 6.6:1 |
K141 (6¼hp) - 5.93:1 |
K160 (6.6hp), K161 (7hp) - 6.2:1 |
K181/M8 (8hp) - 6.8:1 |
K241/M10 (10hp) - LP head - 5:1, 2nd generation head - 5.4:1, 3th and
4th generation heads - 7.1:1 |
K301/M12 (12hp) - LP head - 6.1:1, 2nd generation head - 6.6:1, 3rd and
4th generation heads - 8.6:1 |
K321/M14 (14hp) - LP head - 6.6:1, 2nd generation head - 7:1, 3rd and
4th generation heads - 9:1 |
K341/M16 (16hp) - 7.4:1 |
K361 (18hp OHV) - 9.2:1 |
MV16 - 5.8:1 |
KT17, KT17 Series II, M18, MV18, MV20 (these engines share the same heads)
- 6.0:1 |
KT19, KT19 Series II, M20 (these all share the same heads) - 6.6:1 |
A good head for a Stock pulling
tractor with the engine running around 4,000 RPM would be the one with the
spark plug located in the center of the combustion chamber. And the best
head to use for a high RPM pulling tractor would be the one with the spark
plug located over the exhaust valve.
Did you know that installing two spark plugs per cylinder doesn't help
to increase the power output of an engine whatsoever? Simply because
one plug will be running hot (exhaust side) and the other will be cool (intake
side). Engine power is generated from the heat source, because heat is how
an engine produces power. When the
spark plug in the cylinder
head is located over (flathead) or close to (OHV) the exhaust valve,
this maintains the majority
of the heat in the combustion chamber in one area. When heat is maintained
in one particular area in any given combustion chamber, the increase in power
will be much greater, especially at high RPM. Burning fuel
within a combustion chamber will "find" or locate the main heat source. The
fuel will burn more thoroughly, allowing the engine to produce more power
at any RPM. If the plug is located in the center of the combustion chamber,
the incoming fuel could splash against the plug's tip and cause the engine
to misfire or run erratic at high speed, especially when burning
methanol fuel. And the plug could easily
become fouled when burning gas, especially when the engine is cold. So it's
best to install just one spark plug positioned over the exhaust valve with
the plug gap set at .060". Because a .060" gap will simulate having two spark
plugs. Use of a high-performance coil will help produce a stronger spark,
too.
Indexing the spark plug will also help to increase power
and torque. This is when the open gap faces the center of the piston. It
helps in a more thorough combustion of the fuel so the engine will produce
more power at high RPM. Indexing washers is used to index a spark plug. They're
a copper washer of certain thicknesses that's placed on the threads of the
plug. Indexing of the spark plug helps to increase the power on a
high-performance engine that operates at high RPM. It doesn't help much on
a stock engine or at low RPM.
Grind away any sharp edges (after milling head, milling out combustion chamber
and/or factory casting flash) within the combustion chamber, and polish the
entire combustion chamber, including around the valves and top of the piston,
to a high luster (smooth as glass, if possible) to help increase power and
torque, especially at higher RPM or at wide open throttle. Removing sharp
edges prevents hot spots, which can cause detonation and/or pre-ignite the
incoming fuel, and polishing reflects heat and prevents the majority of it
from being absorbed into the metals.
Go here for more information on this subject.
If you're
pulling in class where the rules state that the engine must have a stock
OEM cylinder head, stock valve lift and stock diameter
valves, and you want to get a little more power
out of your engine, what can be done is "shave" or mill the head. This is
when approximately .050" of metal is removed from the raised gasket mating
surface. The milling process of the head must be performed with a
fly cutter with the head securely clamped in a
milling machine vise
fastened on the table of a
vertical milling machine. To guarantee that the gasket
mating surface is absolutely parallel to the height of the fins, before actually
milling the head, the fins must first be milled [in the vise on the table
of the milling machine] until they are all the same height. Then flip the
head over and the milling process can be performed. Failure to do this could
cause the gasket area be milled crooked and not parallel to the fins, resulting
in a lop-sided head.
Then if necessary, use a
wide flat belt sander or large diameter flat sanding disc
to smooth the gasket surface. And do not use a belt sander or sanding disc
to mill a head. Use it only to resurface a cylinder head to remove warpage
and restore flatness. If the sanding material on the belt sander or sanding
disc is worn uneven (from multiple sandings), the head will not resurface
perfectly flat and/or may have skip marks. If one don't have their own belt/disc
sander, most automotive machine shops and carpenters have one. Remember -
do the repair job right the first time and it won't have to be done again
later.
Click
or tap here to learn how to resurface a warped cylinder head at home with
sandpaper.
Be sure to check the valve clearance before milling a head! If a lot of metal
is removed from the head, then milling of the valve cavity to clear the head
may also need to be done. In most cases with a stock-lift cam, there should
be adequate clearance once a stock OEM head is milled. Always check the
clearance with the valves at full lift before milling a head! To learn
how to do this, scroll down or
Click or tap here.
Milling of the head will increase the compression ratio about 3/4 of a point.
And depending on engine size, this will definitely, without a doubt, add
about 1-3 more horsepower and more torque. The engine will have a "snappier"
response when the throttle is opened suddenly, and if the engine is in good
running condition, it will literally "pull you back in the seat" of a garden
tractor when the engine is quickly accelerated. To learn what else can be
done to a stock engine to increase it's power output,
Click or tap here.
Reusing Metal-Shielded
Head Gaskets -
A used metal-shielded head gasket can be reused if it is in good condition
and not bent, distorted or burned-out. To reuse it, clean it thoroughly with
a spinning wire wheel, then coat it evenly with ordinary
aluminum or silver color spray paint (available at Walmart
or virtually any hardware store), reinstall the gasket, and tighten the head
bolts or nuts (with studs) to the correct torque specs. Normal operating
engine combustion heat will melt the aluminum/silver paint, creating an
absolutely perfect seal. And if a new, metal-shielded head gasket has light
surface rust from sitting in storage, the rust can be removed with a spinning
wire wheel, and then the gasket can be coated with the same
aluminum or silver color spray paint. It'll still be a
usable gasket, only with a much better appearance (and sealing quality).
This will not work with heavily-rusted head gaskets. And did you know that
aluminum paint was first applied on used head gaskets to reassemble engines
that was in the American World War 2 fighter planes? Aluminum paint was used
because at the time there was a shortage of new head gaskets. This is part
of the reason why most Americans don't speak German or Japanese today. (Hitler
said he was going to dance on the White House steps. Fortunately, that did
not happen.)
If an engine has a leaking head
gasket, then this means either the head bolts are loose or the cylinder head
is warped and needs to be resurfaced on a
wide flat belt sander or large diameter flat sanding disc
to remove warpage and restore flatness. If one don't have their own belt/disc
sander, most automotive machine shops and carpenters have one. Do the repair
job right the first time and it won't have to be done again later. And if
the head is perfectly flat and if the head bolts or studs w/nuts are torqued
to specs, most head gaskets alone will seal with no problems. But if you
want a guarantee that the gasket will seal well to prevent a blown or leaking
head gasket, clean out the head bolt hole threads with a tap, and apply a
thin layer of
Copper RTV Silicone Sealant (VersaChem - Mega Copper Silicone,
Permatex® Ultra Copper® Maximum Temperature RTV Silicone Gasket Maker
or Copper SPRAY-A-GASKET Hi Temp Adhesive Sealant) on each side of the head
gasket or cylinder head and engine block, then torque the bolts or studs
w/nuts to factory specs. Because engine heat has very little effect on silicone
rubber. It's made of fine-ground up heat-transferring compressible copper
mixed with silicone. Walmart and most auto parts stores sell copper RTV silicone
sealant. It doesn't matter which brand to use, they work the same.
When to Use a Copper Head Gasket - Top of Page
Regardless of the thickness
of a copper head gasket, these should only be used with a machined billet
cylinder head and for competition pulling. If a copper head gasket is used
with an OEM Kohler cylinder head, it would most likely leak compression between
the head bolts, even when copper silicone is used. This is because all OEM
heads are much thinner than the thicker billet heads, and when the head bolts
(or nuts w/studs) are torqued to specs, the OEM head will flex and press
down a few thousandths of an inch where the head bolts are, and with a copper
head gasket, it will not "clamp down" entirely against the gasket between
the head bolts. The head doesn't necessarily become warped, it just flexes
or bends. Therefore, it's best to use the "cushiony" OEM Kohler type of head
gasket with an OEM head to compensate for the flexing or bending and seal
better, even for competition pulling.
If the deck (top) of the engine block and cylinder head gasket surface are
perfectly flat, and if the valves have adequate head clearance at full lift,
and if the piston doesn't come flush with the top of the block, or if the
head is milled for a pop-out piston, then a head gasket isn't really necessary.
Just use the copper silicone as described above
È. When using copper/silicone only as
a head to block sealant, it'll be like using a dried "liquid" copper head
gasket. The absence of a head gasket will prevent the head from warping when
the head bolts or nuts with studs are torqued to specs. The head and block
will have positive metal to metal contact with the silicone filling in any
imperfections between the two metals. The copper particles will transfer
the heat. But if the piston pops out of the cylinder, the clearance between
the piston and head will need to have a safety margin of minimum .030" due
to rod stretch and crankshaft flex at very high RPM. And yes, when
precision-balanced, even a cast iron crankshaft will flex a few thousands
of an inch at high RPM without breaking. The clearances over each valve when
at full lift will need to be checked, too.
For dirty or rusted engine blocks,
to prevent a blown or leaking head gasket, besides resurfacing the head(s)
and cleaning the deck of the block, due to dirt/debris that gets accumulated
in the threads for the head bolts, the threads may need to be cleaned out
with the appropriate size tap (5/16-18 UNC (coarse thread) for Kohler engine
models K141, K161/K160, and K181/M8 engines; and 3/8-16 UNC (coarse thread)
for Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361
engines) to get the head to fully compress the gasket when the bolts are
torqued to specs. It's best to use a TAPER hand tap. A TAPER tap cleans threads
more thoroughly [than a PLUG tap] and is less likely to break off in the
block when in use. Then a PLUG tap can be used to clean the threads deeper.
Be sure the threads on the bolts are clean, too. And to obtain the proper
torque, apply clean motor oil on the threads before installing and torquing
the bolts to specs. This should be done with any engine, lawn & garden,
farm, heavy equipment or automotive.
Removing a Broken-Off Tap - A threading tap that has broken off
in an engine block or metal casting can be very difficult to remove. About
all I can tell you is to either take your block to a reputable machine shop
to have the tap removed, or go here and try to do it yourself:
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=removing+broken+tap+from+hole.
Actually, it's best to use a TAPER hand tap to cut new threads and clean
out existing threads. If used correctly, a TAPER tap is less likely to break
off.
Click or tap here to learn how to cut new threads, the professional
way.
And OEM Kohler head bolts don't need to be retorqued again after the engine
gets hot. Also, as long as there's plenty of metal on the hex head (due to
being rusted away), they can be reused many times. The OEM Kohler head bolts
are actually harder than hardware store grade 8 bolts and the threads don't
stretch on them whatsoever. Personally, I always try to reuse Kohler head
bolts on my engine builds whenever possible.
To repair broken-off head bolt(s)...
-
Try applying
GUNK Liquid Wrench to the broken stud(s), allow the Liquid
Wrench to soak in after a few minutes, then use
Vise-Grips locking pliers to very gently twist the stud
back and forth.
-
If the first step doesn't work, heat the area around the stud with an
oxy-acetylene welding torch and twist the stud with the
Vise-Grips again.
-
If the above still don't work, as the last result, the broken stud(s) will
need to be ground flush with the surface on the block, carefully drilled
out
perpendicular
with the block, and the threads retapped. (The studs are obviously made
of mild steel. That's why it/they broke off in the first place.)
-
Resurface the cylinder head on a
wide flat belt sander or large diameter flat sanding
disc to remove warpage and restore flatness, and install new grade
8 bolts with
anti-seize compound on the threads. If one don't have their
own belt/disc sander, most automotive machine shops and carpenters have one.
Do the repair job right the first time and it won't have to be done again
later.
If a small engine cylinder head is burned out (usually close to the exhaust
valve), if it's burned out where the gasket seals, as long as there's no
cracks in the head, it can be successfully welded up, machined flat, the
bolt hole redrilled and be put back into service. The following items are
what causes cylinder head burn-out...
-
Loose head bolts or nuts (with studs). Always torque head bolts or nuts
in the correct sequence and to the proper torque value. Apply
high temperature/high strength liquid threadlocker on threads
of studs to prevent them from loosening in the engine block. FYI -
When storing an opened container of liquid threadlocker or Super Glue, store
it upright and not laying flat. The [capped] tip will not dry out and clog
when stored upright.
-
Head warpage caused by clogged cooling fins (grass, debris, etc.), or head
milled too thin, which will create an air gap between the head bolts or
nuts/studs.
-
Too lean of carburetor high speed air/fuel mixture at full governed speed.
-
Severely worn throttle shaft in carburetor. This will lean out the high speed
air/fuel mixture at full governed speed. (A new bronze bushing will need
to be installed, and a new throttle shaft may need to be installed as
well.)
-
High speed air/fuel mixture set too lean on a Carter, Kohler or fully adjustable
Walbro carburetor.
-
If engine has a Walbro carburetor with a fixed/non-adjustable high speed
main jet and was running above 3,200 RPM, this will severely lean out the
high speed air/fuel mixture. (This is a common thing with the fixed high
speed main jet Walbro carburetors).
-
Vacuum leak at the carburetor mounting gasket, resulting in a lean air/fuel
mixture.
Advertisement:
If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services
listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises
| 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia,
MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving
a voice message, please speak slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday,
except holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try
again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I
stutter.)
E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.
When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing
directly with the owner for the best customer
service. A-1 Miller's shop is open
to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please
call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate our business to other property with a bigger and better
shop so we can hire more help and provide many more high quality parts and
professional services.) |
Kohler Engine Model K361 Cylinder Head Repairs -
Click or tap here for cylinder head bolt torque
specs.
-
 Repair loose valve seat with a new bronze valve seat. FYI
- A replacement steel valve seat will loosen after a short time in
an aluminum cylinder head, even if it is professionally installed. But when
professionally installed, a replacement bronze seat will not loosen because
it grips or adheres to aluminum much better than steel. Plus, bronze is harder
than cast iron. $75.00 each for parts and labor, plus return shipping
& handing.
-
Repair worn inside of valve guide with a bronze sleeve insert. $20.00
each for parts and labor, plus return shipping & handing.
-
Replace loose guide valve with an oversize o.d. guide. $40.00 each
for parts and labor, plus return shipping & handing.
-
Resurface head gasket mating surface to remove warpage and restore flatness.
$20.00 labor, plus return shipping & handing.
-
Perform valve job to OEM specs (regrind both valve faces and seats), install
valves, springs, retainers and keepers/locks/collets.
$35.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling.
Complete Gasket Kit to Reinstall
K361 Cylinder Head on Engine. $49.00, plus shipping & handling. Includes
gaskets listed below. (Each part below included in the
full gasket set.)
-
Head Gasket. High quality aftermarket. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces
Kohler part # 45 052 02-S. $24.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Rocker Arm Housing Gasket. Discontinued from Kohler. NOS OEM Kohler part
# 45 041 14-S. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When
available.)
-
Rocker Arm Cover Gasket. OEM Kohler part # 45 041 09-S. $7.00 each,
plus shipping & handling.
-
Two Pushrod Tube Neoprene Rubber O-Rings. High quality aftermarket. Replaces
Kohler part # 45 153 01-S. $2.00/two, plus shipping & handling.
-
Intake Tube Mounting Gasket. High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part
# 271030-S. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Resurface air-cooled
small engine cylinder head on large disc sander or wide, flat belt sander
to remove warpage and restore flatness, and deburr sharp edge around combustion
chamber. $10.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling.
Mill cylinder head approximately .050". Remove prominent/raised gasket mating
surface from head to increase compression ratio for the 10-16hp flathead,
K-series or Magnum single cylinder engines only. $25.00 labor each,
plus return shipping & handling. NOTE: To lessen the chance
of a blown or leaking head gasket, clean out the head bolt hole threads with
a tap, and seal the head gasket with
Copper RTV Silicone Sealant (VersaChem - Mega Copper Silicone,
Permatex® Ultra Copper® Maximum Temperature RTV Silicone Gasket Maker
or Copper SPRAY-A-GASKET Hi Temp Adhesive Sealant) on each side of the head
gasket or cylinder head and engine block to prevent a blown or leaking head
gasket. Because engine heat has very little effect on silicone rubber. It's
made of fine-ground up heat-transferring compressible copper mixed with silicone.
Walmart and most auto parts stores sell copper RTV silicone sealant. It doesn't
matter which brand to use, they work the same.
Professionally weld up burned-out area in small engine cylinder head, resurface
on a wide sanding belt to remove warpage and restore flatness, and redrill
bolt hole, if needed. NOTE - As long as there's no cracks in the head,
it can be successfully welded up, resurfaced, and the bolt hole redrilled.
IMPORTANT - Causes of a burn-out are: Throttle shaft in the carburetor is
severely worn, allowing extra air in the combustion chamber, which will lean
out the air/fuel mixture at high RPMs; the adjustable high speed air/fuel
mixture screw is set too lean; or the engine is ran above 3,200 RPM with
a [Walbro] carburetor having a fixed/non-adjustable high speed main jet.
To prevent the burn-out from happening again, either of these things should
be fixed correctly before the cylinder head is put back into service.
$75.00 for welding and labor, plus return shipping & handling.
A-1 Miller's Machine Shop Service - Drill out rusted-in/broken off
[1/4"] bolt in cylinder head and retap threads for fastening of sheet metal
and/or brackets. No need to purchase another hard-to-find and high dollar
cylinder head that's in good condition. Labor includes resurfacing of air-cooled
small engine cylinder head on a wide belt sander to remove warpage and restore
flatness. NOTE: Always apply
anti-seize compound on threads of bolt before installing.
$10.00 each labor, plus return shipping & handling.
A-1 Miller's Machine Shop
Service - Install Heli-Coil thread repair insert in stripped-out 14mm
spark plug hole if not larger than 5/8" in diameter. No need to purchase
another hard-to-find and high dollar cylinder head that's in good condition.
304 stainless steel w/200,000 psi tensile strength. Labor includes resurfacing
of air-cooled small engine cylinder head on a wide belt sander to remove
warpage and restore flatness. IMPORTANT: Torque spark plug to 180-240
in. lb. or 15-20 ft. lb. $15.00 each for parts and labor, plus
return shipping & handling.
A-1 Miller's Machine Shop Service - Install an oversize steel thread
repair insert in stripped-out 14mm spark plug hole if larger than 5/8" in
diameter. No need to purchase another hard-to-find and high dollar cylinder
head that's in good condition. Labor includes resurfacing of air-cooled small
engine cylinder head on a wide belt sander to remove warpage and restore
flatness. IMPORTANT: Torque spark plug to 180-240 in. lb. or 15-20 ft.
lb. $40.00 each for parts and labor, plus return shipping &
handling.
A-1 Miller's Machine Shop Service - Professionally weld up excessively
enlarged/stripped-out spark plug hole, and drill and tap new 14mm spark plug
threads. No need to purchase another hard-to-find and high dollar cylinder
head that's in good condition. For accuracy, all machining of spark plug
hole performed with head firmly clamped on table of milling machine. Labor
includes resurfacing of air-cooled small engine cylinder head on a wide belt
sander to remove warpage and restore flatness. IMPORTANT: Torque spark
plug to 180-240 in. lb. or 15-20 ft. lb. $60.00 each for welding
and labor, plus return shipping & handling.
 |
Cylinder head gasket. Fits
Kohler flathead engine models K90/K91. Approximately .050" compressed thickness.
Doesn't need to be retorqued again once hot. Click
or tap here for cylinder head bolt torque specs. Included in complete
engine rebuild gasket set. Discontinued OEM Kohler part # 220124-S.
-
High quality aftermarket. $7.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Cylinder head gasket. Fits
Kohler K-series and Magnum flathead engine models K141, K160, K161 and K181/M8.
Approximately .050" compressed thickness. Doesn't need to be retorqued again
once hot. Click or tap here for cylinder head bolt
torque specs. Included in complete engine rebuild gasket set.
-
Aftermarket. $7.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 41 041 10-S. $10.76 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Cylinder head gasket. Fits
Kohler K-series and Magnum flathead engine models K241/M10, K301/M12 and
K321/M14. Approximately .050" compressed thickness. Doesn't need to be retorqued
once hot. Click or tap here for cylinder head bolt
torque specs. Included in complete engine rebuild gasket set.
-
Aftermarket. $6.25 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 47 041 15-S. $22.75 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Cylinder head gasket. Fits
Kohler K-series and Magnum flathead engine models K341/M16. Approximately
.050" compressed thickness. Doesn't need to be retorqued again once hot.
Click or tap here for cylinder head bolt torque
specs. Included in complete engine rebuild gasket set.
-
Aftermarket. $11.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 45 041 17-S. $17.52 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Cylinder head gasket. Fits
Kohler engine model K361. Approximately .050" compressed thickness with steel
fire ring. Doesn't need to be retorqued again once hot.
Click or tap here for cylinder head bolt torque
specs. Discontinued OEM Kohler part # 45 052 02-S, Cub Cadet/MTD part
# KH-45-052-02-S.
-
High quality aftermarket. $28.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Cylinder Head Gasket. Fits
Tecumseh engine models HH80, VH80, HH100 and VH100. Torque head bolts to
15-20 ft. lb. / 180-240 in. lb. Approximately .050" compressed thickness.
Doesn't need to be retorqued again once hot. Tecumseh part # 32000B.
-
$5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Cylinder head gasket. Fits
Kohler KT-series and Magnum opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engine models
MV16, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20.
Approximately .050" compressed thickness. Doesn't need to be retorqued again
once hot. Click or tap here for cylinder head bolt
torque specs. Included in complete engine rebuild gasket set.
-
Aftermarket. $21.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 52 041 20-S. $25.60 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Cylinder head gasket. Fits
Kohler opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engine models K482, K532 and K582.
Approximately .050" compressed thickness. Doesn't need to be retorqued again
once hot. Click or tap here for cylinder head bolt
torque specs. Included in complete engine rebuild gasket set.
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OEM Kohler part # 48 041 13-S. 11.30 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Cylinder Head
for Kohler engine models K141, K160, K161 and K181/M8. Cleaned and resurfaced
on a
wide sanding belt or large diameter disc sander to remove
warpage and restore flatness. Cooling fins, spark plug threads and bolt holes
for fastening of sheet metal all in good condition.
Click or tap here for cylinder head bolt torque
specs.
-
Used and in excellent condition. Discontinued OEM Kohler part # 41 015 02-S
(most commonly used). $125.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
(When available.)
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service. Repair stripped spark plug threads
in YOUR cylinder head and/or drill out broken bolt and retap threads for
fastening sheet metal. Includes resurface head to remove warpage and restore
flatness. $25.00 - $45.00 parts and labor, depending on extent of
repair.
2nd Generation Cylinder Head
for Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241/M10 and K301/M12. Can also
be used on the early K321 engines with the small (1-1/8") exhaust valve.
Spark plug located in middle of combustion chamber. Due to the location of
the spark plug, this head is not designed for use on a K-series AQS (Quiet
Line) engine. Cleaned and resurfaced on a
wide sanding belt or large diameter disc sander to remove
warpage and restore flatness. Cooling fins, spark plug threads and bolt holes
for fastening of sheet metal all in good condition.
Click or tap here for cylinder head bolt torque
specs.
-
Used and in excellent condition. Head with Short Bolt Hole Bosses. Requires
1-1/2" length head bolts. Discontinued OEM Kohler part # 236675.
$85.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
-
Used and in excellent condition. Head with Tall Bolt Hole Bosses. Requires
2" length head bolts. Discontinued OEM Kohler part #'s 236546 and 235475.
$75.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service. Repair stripped spark plug threads
in YOUR cylinder head and/or drill out broken bolt and retap threads for
fastening sheet metal. Includes resurface head to remove warpage and restore
flatness. $25.00 - $45.00 parts and labor, depending on extent of
repair.
3rd Generation Cylinder Head.
Fits Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241/M10, K301/M12 and K321/M14.
Spark plug located in middle of combustion chamber. Due to the location of
the spark plug, this head is not designed for use on a K-series AQS (Quiet
Line) engine. Cleaned and resurfaced on a
wide sanding belt or large diameter disc sander to remove
warpage and restore flatness. Cooling fins, spark plug threads and bolt holes
for fastening of sheet metal all in good condition. Requires 1-1/2"
length head bolts. Click or tap here for cylinder
head bolt torque specs.
-
Used and in excellent condition. Discontinued OEM Kohler part # 237829.
$75.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service. Repair stripped spark plug threads
in YOUR cylinder head and/or drill out broken bolt and retap threads for
fastening sheet metal. Includes resurface head to remove warpage and restore
flatness. $25.00 - $45.00 parts and labor, depending on extent of
repair.
4th Generation Cylinder Head.
Fits Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241/M10, K301/M12 and K321/M14.
Spark plug located over exhaust valve. Mostly used on the K-series AQS (Quiet
Line) engines. Cleaned and resurfaced on a
wide sanding belt or large diameter disc sander to remove
warpage and restore flatness. Cooling fins, spark plug threads and bolt holes
for fastening of sheet metal all in good condition. Each requires
1-1/2" length head bolts. Click or tap here for
cylinder head bolt torque specs. FYI - This is the best cylinder head
to use for a Stock or Hot Stock competition pulling engine because it has
the spark plug located over the exhaust valve, which retains the majority
of the heat in one area for better combustion of the fuel so the engine will
produce more power. This is why Kohler made this type of head because dyno
tests have proven that it works better than their previous-designed heads.
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Used and in excellent condition. Discontinued OEM Kohler part # 237670.
$100.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
-
New. OEM Kohler part # 237830-S.$263.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
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A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service. Repair stripped spark plug threads
in YOUR cylinder head and/or drill out broken bolt and retap threads for
fastening sheet metal. Includes resurface head to remove warpage and restore
flatness. $25.00 - $45.00 parts and labor, depending on extent of
repair.
16hp Cylinder Head. Fits Kohler
K-series and Magnum engine models K341/M16. Cleaned and resurfaced on a
wide sanding belt or large diameter disc sander to remove
warpage and restore flatness. Cooling fins, spark plug threads and bolt holes
for fastening of sheet metal all in good condition. Requires 1-1/2"
length head bolts. Click or tap here for cylinder
head bolt torque specs.
-
Used and in excellent condition. Discontinued OEM Kohler part #'s 45 015
06 and 45 015 09. $150.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When
available.)
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service. Repair stripped spark plug threads
in YOUR cylinder head and/or drill out broken bolt and retap threads for
fastening sheet metal. Includes resurface head to remove warpage and restore
flatness. $25.00 - $45.00 parts and labor, depending on extent of
repair.
|
High Quality Cylinder
Head Bolts and Flat Washers. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181
and M8. OEM Kohler head bolts can be reused multiple times. They will not
stretch overtime and are not
"torque to yield." But replace bolts with eroded, rusted
heads to prevent socket from slipping so bolt will torque down correctly.
5/16" diameter x 1-1/2" thread length grade 8 bolts and hardened washers.
NOTES: Clean the threads in the block with a 5/16-18 UNC plug hand tap
so the bolts will torque correctly. Then apply motor oil on the threads and
torque each bolt to 240 in. lbs. or 20 ft. lbs.
Liquid threadlocker is not necessary.
Click or tap here for cylinder head
bolt torque specs.
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High quality aftermarket. Set of 7 bolts only. $7.00 per set, plus
shipping & handling.
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High quality aftermarket. Set of 7 bolts and 7 washers. $10.50 per
set, plus shipping & handling.
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OEM Kohler part #'s 41 086 02-S (bolt), 220534-S (washer). $49.35
per set, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Cylinder Head Bolts
and Flat Washers. Fits Kohler engine models MV16, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19,
KT19 Series II, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. OEM Kohler head bolts can be reused
multiple times. They will not stretch overtime and are not
"torque to yield." But replace bolts with eroded, rusted
heads to prevent socket from slipping so bolt will torque down correctly.
5/16" diameter x 1-1/2" thread length grade 8 bolts and hardened washers.
NOTES: Clean the threads in the block with a 5/16-18 UNC plug hand tap
so the bolts will torque correctly. Then apply motor oil on the threads and
torque each bolt to 240 in. lbs. or 20 ft. lbs.
Liquid threadlocker is not necessary.
Click or tap here for cylinder head
bolt torque specs.
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High quality aftermarket. Set of 9 bolts only. $9.00 per set, plus
shipping & handling.
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High quality aftermarket. Set of 9 bolts and 9 washers. $13.50 per
set, plus shipping & handling.
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OEM Kohler part #'s 41 086 02-S (bolt), 220534-S (washer). $63.45
per set, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Cylinder Head Bolts
and Flat Washers. Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14,
K341/M16 and K361 listed below. OEM Kohler head bolts can be reused multiple
times. They will not stretch overtime and are not
"torque to yield." But replace bolts with eroded, rusted
heads to prevent socket from slipping so bolt will torque down correctly.
NOTES: Clean the threads in the block with a 3/8-16 UNC plug hand tap
then apply motor oil on the threads of the bolts so the bolts will torque
correctly. Torque each bolt to 360 in. lbs. or 30 ft. lbs.
Liquid threadlocker is not necessary. And the length
of any bolt (or screw) do not include the bolt head itself. They are measured
from under the head to end of the threads. Bolt lengths below
Ê is determined by type of cylinder head
used. Click or tap here for cylinder
head bolt torque specs.
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For Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12 and K321/M14. 3/8" diameter x
1-1/2" thread length grade 8 bolts and hardened washers. These
are for OEM heads with recessed bolt holes that's lower than the height of
the cooling fins.
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High quality aftermarket. Set of 9 bolts only. $9.00 per set, plus
shipping & handling.
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High quality aftermarket. Set of 9 bolts and 9 washers. $13.50 per
set, plus shipping & handling.
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OEM Kohler part #'s 25 086 115-S (bolt, 270889-S (washer). $64.75
per set, plus shipping & handling.
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For Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12 and K321/M14. 3/8" diameter x
2-1/4" thread length grade 8 bolts and hardened washers. These
are for OEM heads with bolt holes that's the same height as the cooling fins,
and with no mounting bracket/plate under the bolt head. Kohler part #'s
271077 (bolt; discontinued from Kohler), 270889-S (washer).
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High quality aftermarket. Set of 9 bolts only. $9.00 per set, plus
shipping & handling.
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High quality aftermarket. Set of 9 bolts and 9 washers. $13.50 per
set, plus shipping & handling.
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For Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12 and K321/M14. 3/8" diameter x
2-1/2" thread length grade 8 bolts and hardened washers. These
are for OEM heads with bolt holes that's the same height as the cooling fins,
and with a gas tank mounting bracket or other type of mounting bracket/plate
fastened under the bolt heads.
-
High quality aftermarket. Set of 9 bolts only. $9.00 per set, plus
shipping & handling.
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High quality aftermarket. Set of 9 bolts and 9 washers. $13.50 per
set, plus shipping & handling.
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OEM Kohler part #'s 235175-S (bolt), 270889-S (washer). $98.00 per
set, plus shipping & handling.
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For Kohler engine models K341/M16. 3/8" diameter x 1-1/2" thread length grade
8 bolts and hardened washers.
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High quality aftermarket. Set of 10 bolts only. $10.00 per set, plus
shipping & handling.
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High quality aftermarket. Set of 10 bolts and 10 washers. $15.00 per
set, plus shipping & handling.
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OEM Kohler part #'s 25 086 115-S (bolt), 270889-S (washer). $69.70
per set, plus shipping & handling.
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For Kohler engine model K361. 3/8" diameter x 1-1/2" thread length grade
8 bolts and hardened washers. OEM Kohler part #'s 270721-S (bolt; discontinued
from Kohler), 270889-S (washer).
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High quality aftermarket. Set of 6 bolts only. $6.00 per set, plus
shipping & handling.
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High quality aftermarket. Set of 6 bolts and 6 washers. $9.00 per
set, plus shipping & handling.
        
High Quality Aftermarket Single Cylinder Head Stud Kits. These studs can
be reused multiple times. They will not stretch overtime and are not
"torque to yield." Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12,
K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 with an OEM or Billet Head. Each kit includes
3/8" diameter x 2" or 2-3/4" length high quality heat-treated studs, grade
8 nuts and hardened flat washers. I can also make the head studs any length
you want. The ones that's listed here are the most common lengths. When installed
correctly and torqued to specs,
head studs provide even torque pressure for better head gasket sealing. Plus,
with a thinner cylinder wall with a huge, oversized piston, they help maintain
cylinder wall stability and straightness for better ring seal to lessen the
loss of compression. Thoroughly tested for several years of continuous use
under pulling conditions, for Kohler engine models, hardened and heat-treated
coarse thread studs, along with grade 8 nuts and washers, works just fine,
with no problems. The nuts maintain their torque as long as they're tightened
to the correct torque specs. And make sure at least 3/4" of threads are in
the block so the cylinder wall will not distort and threads in block will
not strip out when the nuts are torqued to specs.
Click or tap here for cylinder head
bolt torque specs. (Cast iron is weaker than hardened steel.) Also, the
flat washers goes under the nuts to distribute even pressure across head.
IMPORTANT: As with any threaded stud, apply
medium strength liquid threadlocker (Blue Loctite, Permatex
or equivalent) on threads that goes in the block to prevent stud from loosening.
FYI - When storing an opened container of liquid threadlocker or Super Glue,
store it upright and not laying flat. The [capped] tip will not dry out and
clog when stored upright. Thread stud 3/4" into the block. Use a hardened
flat washer under nut to distribute load across head and apply motor oil
on exposed threads so nut will torque correctly. Torque each nut to 360 in.
lbs. or 30 ft. lbs. in correct sequence. Also, stud length is determined
by type of cylinder head. The OEM head with short bolt holes require 2" length
studs, the head with tall bolt holes require 2-3/4" length studs. Please
indicate length of studs when placing order. An ingenious and innovative
concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of
this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence.)
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For Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12 and K321/M14. Available in 2",
2-3/4" or 3-1/4" (OEM) lengths (please specify length). Set of 9 studs, nuts
and washers. $20.00 per set, plus shipping & handling.
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For Kohler engine models K341/M16. 2" length. Set of 10 studs, nuts and washers.
$22.00 per set, plus shipping & handling.
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For Kohler engine model K361. 2" length. Set of 6 studs, nuts and washers.
$13.00 per set, plus shipping & handling.
OEM Kohler Cylinder Head Studs.
Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14 and K341/M16. Dimensions
of each stud: 3/8-16 UNC (coarse thread) threads; 3-1/4" overall length;
short threaded length: 5/8"; long threaded length: 1-7/8". NOTE: OEM Kohler
head studs can be reused multiple times. They will not stretch overtime and
are not
"torque to yield." IMPORTANT: As with any threaded stud,
apply
medium strength liquid threadlocker (Blue Loctite, Permatex
or equivalent) on threads that goes in the block and tighten with pliers
to prevent stud from loosening. FYI - When storing an opened container of
liquid threadlocker or Super Glue, store it upright and not laying flat.
The [capped] tip will not dry out and clog when stored upright. Use
a hardened flat washer under nut to distribute load across head and apply
motor oil on exposed threads so nut will torque correctly. Torque each nut
to 360 in. lbs. or 30 ft. lbs. in correct sequence.
-
Used and in excellent condition. OEM Kohler part #'s 237277-S (discontinued)
or 237522-S. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When
available.)
-
New. OEM Kohler part # 237522-S. $11.50 each, plus shipping &
handling.
Steel Spacer for Studs Above.
Use with OEM Kohler single cylinder engine cylinder heads with the recessed
bolt hole bosses when using a gas tank mounting bracket or other kind of
flat bracket. Replaces discontinued Kohler part #'s 25 112 14-S and X-400-71-S.
Dimensions: 13/32" i.d. x 5/8" o.d. x 23/32" height.
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A-1 Miller's high quality aftermarket. $5.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
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OEM Kohler part # X-400-91-S. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Kohler K-Series and Magnum Single Cylinder Engine
Torque Values and Sequences for Spark Plug and Cylinder Heads
[Return To Previous Section or Website]
Model (Horsepower) |
K90/K91 |
K141, K160/K161 and K181/M8 |
K241/M10 K301/M12 and K321/M14 |
K341/M16 |
K361 |
KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and
MV20 |
Spark Plug Torque Value |
<- 180-240 in. lb. / 15-20 ft. lb.-> |
Cylinder Head
Torque Sequences and Torque Values
Note: Torque bolts only once to specs. No need to retorque. |
15 ft. lb. / 200 in. lb.
 |
15-20 ft. lb. / 180-240 in. lb.
 |
25-30 ft. lb. / 300-360 in. lb.
 |
25-30 ft. lb. / 300-360 in. lb.
 |
25-30 ft. lb. / 300-360 in. lb.
 |
15-20 ft. lb. / 180-240 in. lb.
 |
ALWAYS lubricate threads with
motor oil, and gently torque head bolts/nuts in a cross-pattern sequence
so the head will not become warped or to prevent from cracking the head!
If the torque value(s) are shown only in inch pounds (in. lb.), and the only
tool you have is a torque wrench that shows in foot pounds (ft. lb.), you
can convert inch pounds into foot pounds by dividing the torque value by
12. Example: if the value is shown in 420 in. lb., then divide 420 by 12
= 35 ft. lb.
When replacing the head bolts, always use grade 8 bolts or heat-treated steel
studs with grade 8 nuts and hardened flat washers to equally distribute the
load. Because stainless steel bolts have the same strength as grade 5 bolts.
Which means if stainless steel or grade 5 bolts are used, the threads may
stretch over time, causing a compression leak and/or a warped head, which
can cause a burned-out gasket and/or burned-out or warped head.
[Return To Previous Section or Website] |
How to Remove Carbon Deposits from the Combustion Chamber in a Cylinder
Head - (added 11/6/16)
Use a narrow, steel blade putty
knife (with a stiff blade) or paint scraper to remove the carbon deposits
from the combustion chamber (and from around the valves and from the top
of the piston). Be sure the putty knife or scraper has a sharp edge, too.
Don't worry about scratching the surface of the combustion chamber either.
The tiny scratches will cause no problems. If the putty knife or scraper
can't easily remove the carbon, soak the head in plain water at room temperature
for a few days. This will soften the carbon and then it should be a lot easier
to remove.
How to Make a New Spark Plug Hole -
When
making a new hole and cutting threads for the spark plug, use a 1/2" drill
bit (for 14mm threads) to bore the hole, then use a 14mm x 1.25 pitch spark
plug tap to cut the threads. Be sure to drill the hole and cut the threads
perpendicular
to the head! If the hole is drilled crooked or the threads are cut crooked,
the spark plug won't seat (seal) a full 360º and loss of compression
will result. A spark plug tap can be acquired on eBay, at a local hardware
store or machine shop/steel supply company. Don't use a spark plug thread
hole chaser to cut new threads. They're made to remove carbon deposits and/or
renew damaged threads.
Repairing Stripped 14mm Spark Plug Holes -
 If 14mm spark plug threads are stripped-out in a cylinder head,
a stainless steel
Heli-Coil thread repair insert or a special-made mild steel
solid thread repair insert can be installed. For cleanliness
and to prevent metal cuttings from entering the combustion chamber, which
will cause severe engine damage and wear, the cylinder head must be removed
before installing the insert! By the way - a mild steel or stainless
steel thread insert is absolutely, without a doubt, much stronger than any
aluminum threads. To install the solid thread insert...
-
Cut oversize threads in the head with the supplied tap that came in the solid
insert 14mm spark plug thread repair kit. Make sure the threads are cut
perpendicular
with the head to prevent a cocked or crooked installed spark plug.
-
Apply
high temperature/high strength liquid threadlocker on the
threads of the insert and on the threads in the head. FYI - When storing
an opened container of liquid threadlocker or Super Glue, store it upright
and not laying flat. The [capped] tip will not dry out and clog when stored
upright.
-
Install the insert on the spark plug threads with the flared end toward the
spark plug body, and install them together in the head, and tighten securely.
Allow the threadlocker to cure for about 30 minutes. It usually fully
cures in 24 hours at room temperature.
-
Remove the spark plug, and use a 5/8" tapered punch and medium size hammer
to expand the insert from inside of the combustion chamber to lessen
the chance of it coming out when removing the spark plug.
-
If necessary, use a 14mm x 1.25 pitch spark plug tap to repair the threads
on the end of the insert after using the punch.
-
IMPORTANT: Torque spark plug to 180-240 in. lb. or 15-20 ft. lb.
The Heli-Coil insert doesn't require threadlocker because its "spring-like"
expands outward against the threads in the hole, keeping it intact in the
head.
Or contact a-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises if you are not able to repair
stripped spark plug threads.
As the last resort, if the stripped spark plug threads hole in an aluminum
head are too large for a Heli-Coil thread insert, the hole can be successfully
welded-up with aluminum welding, machined (milled) flush with the surface
of the head, then drilled perpendicular with the head, and new spark plug
threads tapped for installation of the spark plug.
How
to locate where to machine the cylinder head for the valves...
-
Strip the engine down to the bare block.
-
Fasten the billet cylinder head and head gasket on the block with a couple
of bolts.
-
Run a 5/16" diameter steel rod that has a sharp point on one end into each
valve guide from inside the block with the pointed end toward the head.
-
Using a small hammer, lightly tap on the end of the rod so a small impression
(punch mark) will be created on the head. These punch marks are the location
for the center of the valve heads.
-
Using a machinists' inside divider caliper, scribe a circle (radius) around
each punch mark the same diameter as the valve heads, plus approximately
.100" for side clearance.
-
Now the cylinder head can be machined for the valve cavities and combustion
chamber.
How to check for proper valve clearance
between the valves and cylinder head...
-
For the K241-K341 engines, set the valves at their respective clearances.
(See above È.) Adjustment is made with
a flat feeler gauge and with the lifter held in place with a slender 1/2"
open-end wrench and turning the adjuster screw in the lifter with a 7/16"
open-end wrench. Make sure the lifters are on the base circle of the cam
lobes, too.
-
Use
modeling clay (such as
Play-Doh) to measure the clearances
between the valves and the head. Apply motor oil on each valve and in the
head (valve cavities) to prevent the clay from sticking to either surface.
Fasten the head with the head gasket to the block, then crank the engine
over slowly by hand one full revolution so the valves can compress the clay.
Remove the head and use the depth gauge on a dial or digital
vernier
caliper to carefully measure the thickness of the clay. There needs to
be a minimum of .100" clearance between the valves and the head.
-
Place the head and gasket on the engine and tighten down a couple of head
bolts.
-
Rotate the crankshaft slowly by hand 360º. If it stops rotating,
do not force it, because damage may occur to the camshaft. Remove
the head and see if one of the valves made contact with the head.
-
If the crankshaft rotates freely
after 360º, remove the head and use the depth gauge on a dial or digital
vernier
caliper to determine the thickness of the clay. The clay should have
a minimum thickness of about .070".
-
Remove metal from inside head (valve cavities) as necessary to gain proper
clearance.
-
Clearance around the valves should be the same as above the valves (valve
shrouding).
-
Repeat steps 2 through 6 to gain proper valve to head clearance.
[Return To Previous Section or Website]
È
How to make your own modeling clay
(Play-Doh):
-
2-1/2 Cups All Purpose Flour
-
1/2 Cup Salt
-
1 Tablespoon Cream of Tartar or Alum
-
3 Tablespoons Vegetable Oil
-
2 Cups Water
Directions: Thoroughly mix flour, salt and cream of tartar or alum. Boil
liquids together. Pour in dry ingredients and stir together. Knead and add
flour as needed. [Return To Previous
Paragraph] È
When machining the valve cavities in an OEM stock head or in a billet
head when installing a cam with more valve lift, use the following
clearances:
-
The intake valve should have .100" - .200" clearance between the valve head
& cylinder head when the valve is at full lift.
-
The exhaust valve should have .075" - .150" clearance between the valve head
& cylinder head when the valve is at full lift.
-
Clearance around the valves should be the same as above the valves.
-
NOTE: As a rule of thumb, cams with more lift (.500" or more lift) can run
the lesser clearance over valves.
FYI - I've milled several stock heads as much as 1/8" and they did well
at the pulls. However, using methanol on a cool day could blow the combustion
chamber out on a stock head that's been excessively milled for valve clearance.
I've had this happen on my 12hp Super-Stock pulling tractor once. I was going
down the track, engine running excellent, then all of a sudden "PUFF!" went
the head.
How to Repair A Loose Valve Seat and Worn or Loose Valve Guides in the
K361 Cylinder Head -
The Kohler engine model K361
cylinder head is notorious for one or both valve seats and/or one or both
valve guides becoming loose. What causes a seat to loosen is the aluminum
was molded around the steel seats with a "tongue and groove" design to secure
the seat in place. Due to normal (or perhaps excessive) engine heat, sometimes
the two metals (aluminum head and steel seat) will separate from each other,
allowing the seat to loosen. And the reason the guides loosen is because
the hole they're pressed into is very short. In other words, there's not
much metal (in the head) to secure them in place 100%.
First of all, before attempting to repair a loose seat, if the valve guide
for the seat in question is worn (inside) or loose in it's bore, it will
need to be repaired first.
-
For the intake guide, if the guide is secure (tight) in its bore, but the
inside is worn, a new OEM Kohler guide can be installed. Use
high temperature/high strength liquid threadlocker to help
secure the new guide in the head. FYI - When storing an opened container
of liquid threadlocker or Super Glue, store it upright and not laying flat.
The [capped] tip will not dry out and clog when stored upright. The center
hole in the new guide may need to be reamed out for proper stem to guide
clearance. The Kohler part number for the intake guide is 45 316 02-S. The
part number for the exhaust guide and seal kit is 45 755 11-S.
-
Or instead of removing the guide and installing a new one, a thin-wall bronze
sleeve can be installed in the guide to regain proper stem to guide clearance.
This requires specialized tools and equipment. Most automotive engine machine
shops can do this. Or install a new valve guide.
-
If a guide has a "slip-fit" looseness, it can be removed from the head, chucked
in a metal lathe and the outside of the guide
knurled with a
knurling tool. Then it will need to be pressed in the head
with
high temperature/high strength liquid threadlocker and
it should be fine for a long time. FYI - When storing an opened container
of liquid threadlocker or Super Glue, store it upright and not laying flat.
The [capped] tip will not dry out and clog when stored upright.
-
But if a guide is very loose in its bore, a cast iron or bronze guide slightly
larger than 5/8" o.d. with a 5/16" i.d. hole that's made for another make
and model of engine will need to be machined and installed. The bore for
the guide in the head may need to be reamed to accept the oversize guide
and be
perpendicular
with the centerline of the valve seat, then the center hole may need to be
reduced for proper stem to guide clearance. Use
high strength sleeve retainer to help secure the guide
in the head.
How to Repair a Loose Valve Seat:
-
Acquire a quality
bronze valve seat insert with the outside diameter slightly
larger than the counterbore of the old seat, but the same approximate inside
diameter so the original size valve can be reused. FYI - Bronze is highly
recommended because it grips aluminum better than any steel valve seat. Plus,
bronze is harder than cast iron.
-
With the head set up in a
valve seat machine or on the table of a
vertical milling machine with the right kind of tooling,
cut into the head to remove the old seat.
-
Bore the counterbore for the new seat .005" smaller than the outside diameter
of the new seat and machine the depth of the counterbore the same height
as the new seat. The .005" interference fit is the standard for a perfect
press fit regarding a valve seat insert.
-
Chamfer the lower outer edge of the new seat in a small
metal lathe for easier installation into the counterbore.
-
Apply
high temperature/high strength liquid threadlocker on the
circumference of the seat and/or in the counterbore. FYI - When storing
an opened container of liquid threadlocker or Super Glue, store it upright
and not laying flat. The [capped] tip will not dry out and clog when stored
upright.
-
Press or drive the new seat
perpendicular
into the counterbore until it bottoms out.
-
The seat angle is then cut or ground to match the angle on the valve face
and be
perpendicular
with the centerline of the valve guide.
-
NOTE - If a small "stress
crack" forms in the head between the valves after the seat is installed,
this will hurt absolutely nothing because the crack only goes down about
half the depth of the installed seat. And besides, the engine is not
water-cooled.
Advertisement:
If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed
in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501
W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO
(Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving
a voice message, please speak slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday,
except holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try
again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I
stutter.)
E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.
When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing
directly with the owner for the best customer
service. A-1 Miller's shop is open
to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please
call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate our business to other property with a bigger and better
shop so we can hire more help and provide many more high quality parts and
professional services.) |
Kohler Engine Model K361 Cylinder Head Repairs -
Click or tap here for cylinder head bolt torque
specs.
-
 Repair loose valve seat with a new bronze valve seat. FYI
- A replacement steel valve seat will loosen after a short time in
an aluminum cylinder head, even if it is professionally installed. But when
professionally installed, a replacement bronze seat will not loosen because
it grips or adheres to aluminum much better than steel. Plus, bronze is harder
than cast iron. $75.00 each for parts and labor, plus return shipping
& handing.
-
Repair worn inside of valve guide with a bronze sleeve insert. $20.00
each for parts and labor, plus return shipping & handing.
-
Replace loose guide valve with an oversize o.d. guide. $40.00 each
for parts and labor, plus return shipping & handing.
-
Resurface head gasket mating surface to remove warpage and restore flatness.
$20.00 labor, plus return shipping & handing.
-
Perform valve job to OEM specs (regrind both valve faces and seats), install
valves, springs, retainers and keepers/locks/collets.
$35.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling.
Complete Gasket Kit to Reinstall
K361 Cylinder Head on Engine. $49.00, plus shipping & handling. Includes
gaskets listed below. (Each part below included in the
full gasket set.)
-
Head Gasket. High quality aftermarket. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces
Kohler part # 45 052 02-S. $24.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Rocker Arm Housing Gasket. Discontinued from Kohler. NOS OEM Kohler part
# 45 041 14-S. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When
available.)
-
Rocker Arm Cover Gasket. OEM Kohler part # 45 041 09-S. $7.00 each,
plus shipping & handling.
-
Two Pushrod Tube Neoprene Rubber O-Rings. High quality aftermarket. Replaces
Kohler part # 45 153 01-S. $2.00/two, plus shipping & handling.
-
Intake Tube Mounting Gasket. High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part
# 271030-S. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
About Installing Bigger Valves in the K361 Engine Cylinder Head -
On the K361's cylinder head, the stock valve head diameters are: intake -
1.438"; exhaust - 1.400". The exhaust valve is already plenty big enough,
even for high RPM. But there's not that much room in the combustion chamber
to install a bigger intake valve because a bigger seat would need to be installed
first. The outside diameter of the seat is always larger than the diameter
of the valve head. The biggest intake valve that can be installed would be
about 1.5", which really wouldn't give the engine that much more performance.
For more noticeable performance, the intake valve needs to be about 20% bigger
than the exhaust valve, which would make it 1.68". And this is way too big
for the K361 head.
If an OHV aluminum block engine blows smoke out the exhaust upon start up
then quits smoking, and/or oil is forced out the oil fill tube, this is likely
the signs of a warped cylinder head, which results in a blown head gasket.
The problem is caused by normal engine heat from the first time the engine
is ran. To fix this, remove the head, resurface it on a
wide sanding belt or large diameter disc sander to remove
warpage and restore flatness, install a new head gasket, torque the head
bolts to specs in the correct sequence, and readjust the valve clearances.
It shouldn't warp again. If one don't have their own belt/disc sander, most
automotive machine shops and carpenters have one. Do the repair job right
the first time and it won't have to be done again later.
How to Remove a Broken Head Bolt -
Use a "centering drill," which is a stubby drill bit that creates a hole
exactly in the center of a stud. Then use a 5/16" carbide-tip drill bit to
drill the broken stud out, and then use a 3/8-16 UNC (coarse thread) tap
to clean the threads. If you feel this is too much for you, you can take
your engine to a reputable machine shop and have them do this for you.
A-1 Miller's
Computerized Stuska Water Brake Engine
Dynamometer
(Dyno) Service with DPM Data Logger Software to Test Horsepower and
Torque! | [Top of Page]
For performance testing of 10-16hp
single cylinder Kohler stock or competition pulling engines at speeds up
to 12,000 RPM. 100% accurate, customers can rent dyno time, fine tune and
make adjustments or changes to their engines to gain maximum horsepower and
torque, and print-out the results so their tractor(s) will be truly competitive
on the track. With an engine dyno, the puller can adjust their engine to
get maximum horsepower and torque, and gear their tractor appropriately to
have an advantage over the competition. NOTE: A fresh-built engine may
not produce full power until it's broke-in. This is when the valves wear-in
with the seats to completely seal in the compression. The rings will likely
hold the compression, but the valves may leak slightly until they wear into
the seats. This is normal for all engines and may take several hours or pulls
to happen, then the valves will be able to hold full compression. Lots of
pullers tell A-1 Miller's after I've built their engines that it seems to
pull stronger every time they pull it.
Engine Dyno Rental Fee: $50.00 per hour run time from the moment the
engine is started. No setup fee for Cub Cadet engines with a 3- or 6-pin/stud
clutch driver. An adapter may need to be needed or fabricated for other makes
and models of engines. Only engines with the narrow base oil pan can be tested.
Engines with the wide base (tall) oil pan cannot be tested at this time.
[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
Coming Soon - Detailed Illustrated
Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back and Self-Propelled Garden
Tractor Pulling Sled. FYI - The
professionally-built self-propelled pulling sled is the only one I've ever
built (click the picture to the right to see a larger image of this sled),
and I got it right the first time, with very few changes or modifications
that had to be made to it. I guess I'm just one of those kind of guys that
knows what he's doing. Pullers really like pulling our sled, too. They say
it's the best sled they've ever pulled. (Not bragging, just stating a fact.)
By the way - Track Master sled is engineered so well (by Brian Miller), that
other sled builders/owners have copied my well thought-out and proven design.
And I do appreciate them acknowledging my intelligence. Anyway, I have lots
of work to do in my shop and I work on the sled plans in my spare time. As
soon as my plans with an inventory list of parts to use are perfected, I'll
post the update in my websites with the prices of the plans. Remember -
Perfection takes time. If it's worth having, it's worth waiting for. Also,
I plan to acquire a bigger shop and may build high quality garden tractor
pulling sleds in the future to offer for sale. Please call 573-256-0313 (shop)
or 573-881-7229 (cell; text or voice message), or email
pullingtractor@aol.com if interested.
- Brian Miller
If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this
website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old
Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri)
65203-9136 USA | Phone:
1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice
message, please speak slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except
holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later.
(When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I
stutter.)
E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.
When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing
directly with the owner for the best customer
service. A-1 Miller's shop is open
to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please
call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate our business to other property with a bigger and better
shop so we can hire more help and provide many more high quality parts and
professional services.)
To place an order, please call the number below
Ê or send an email with your name, complete
and correct postal address and phone number and so I can figure the total
with shipping cost and USPS Tracking. For payment options for parts ordered
or services performed, or to make a donation to my websites, I accept cash
(in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks,
MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total
for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge),
Western
Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram
Money Transfers. (If a part for a specific purpose is special ordered,
your debit/credit card may be charged for the full amount or as a deposit
right after your order is placed; please do not send your debit/credit card
information in email!) Or you can pay A-1 Miller's through PayPal. (My PayPal
account name is my email address. And be sure to mention in PayPal a description
of what the payment is for.) If sending a money order, please include a note
in the envelope with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone
number and a description of what the payment is for. My mailing address and
phone number are below Ê . I'll make
a note of your order, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should
take a few days to come in, but I will send the parts to you as soon as I
have everything in stock after I receive your payment.
IMPORTANT - When sending your part(s) to A-1 Miller's
for rebuilding or repair, package everything securely so the item(s) won't
get damaged in shipping and please include a note in the box with your name,
mailing address, phone number (in case I have any questions) and a description
of what you want done. When shipping heavy parts, it's best to put a slightly
smaller box inside a larger box, to double the strength and integrity of
the package. Because the clumsy "gorillas" or incompetent and uncaring workers
that work for certain delivery services mishandle the heavy packages and
don't care. And when the work is completed, I'll either call or email you
an invoice with the total including shipping & handling.
Payment Options and We Ship to Canada and
Worldwide 
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent
by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged
item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service
Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal
Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S.
territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground
or equivalent services. We try to keep our shipping cost to customers within
reason. Therefore, we don't ship our products in a fancy-looking package
with our company name and/or logo on it because most customers will just
toss it in the trash after they remove the contents. And being there is no
USPS tracking number outside the US, all I can do is make sure I write your
address correctly on the customs form and on your package.
My websites are not set up to process orders and accept payments. Therefore,
for payment options, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders,
cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express
(please add 2.5% to the total amount for the credit/debit card processor's
surcharge),
Western
Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram
Money Transfers. If paying with a credit/debit card, please call me at
either number below. To make a payment to me through PayPal, please click
this link:
https://www.paypal.me/PullingTractor.
Please use the "Friends and Family" option, or add 3% to the total amount
to cover PayPal's processing surcharge. Or to make a payment to me
(pullingtractor@aol.com) in the US through the Venmo app, please click this
link: venmo.com. Or use
Cash App to make a payment to me
(pullingtractor@aol.com). And be sure to mention in PayPal, Venmo or Cash
App a description of what the payment is for with your full name, postal
address, phone number and email address. If sending a money order or cashier's
check, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete mailing
address, phone number, email address and a description of what the payment
is for. I'll make a note of your order when I have all your information,
and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to
come in, but I will send everything on your list to you as soon as I have
the parts in stock after I receive your payment.
  

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maintained by Brian Miller.
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