Modifying the IH & Early MTD Cub Cadet Transaxles for Heavy
Use and/or Pulling Applications
(Click Refresh
to see changes or updates.)
Part 1 - Gearing a Cub Cadet Pulling Tractor. (Scroll down or click here:
updated 9/7/10)
Part 2 - Strengthening the Differential & Axles.
(Click link, scroll further down or click here: updated
10/20/08)
Part 3 - What type of oil should be used in the Cub Cadet
transaxle?
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Part 1 - Gearing a Cub Cadet Pulling Tractor -
In tractor pulling, understanding the concept of having the correct gearing to achieve adequate ground speed so the engine will have enough power to spin the tires on any given track conditions can be a challenge. Overdrive and underdrive gears either speed up or slow down the transmission gears in the transaxle. And by changing the transmission gears, this will give the puller a choice of slower or faster gears according to track conditions.
Having very slow ground speed or very high ground speed can sometimes hurt how well a tractor can pull. With a healthy engine, at the end of the track, if the engine is still revving like there's no load on it, then this means the gearing is too low. But if the engine bogs down and die, this means the gearing is too high. In other words, the gearing needs to be "balanced" to the strength of the engine so when the sled's weight is on the tractor (entire weight of tractor transferred over the rear tires), the tires will still spin some, but the engine will bog down slightly.
The reason to use the right gearing in a pulling tractor is to match an engine's ability to give the tractor momentum so it can pull the sled a little further down the track without sacrificing horsepower or increasing/decreasing torque at the rear wheels. In other words, if one pulls in a particular gear that is too fast, they increase the ground speed, but run out of horsepower in the end. If they pull in a gear that's too slow, they have plenty of power, but don't have the needed ground speed, meaning they may run out of traction at the end. The point here is to obtain a correct "balance" between an engines' power output and torque at its rear tires, which should result in a good pull every time.
- On the "Original" Cub Cadet, the power from the engine is transferred from a small pulley onto a larger pulley by use of a V belt, which act like a gear reduction. It's approximately a 1.6:1 reduction. This means that engine torque is increased 1.6 times to the driveshaft because the clutch/driveshaft assembly turns 1.6 times slower than the engine.
- The gear ratio in the reduction housing of the "Original" Cub Cadet is 4.4:1 (top gear has 57 teeth, lower gear has 13 teeth... 57 ÷ 13 = 4.4)
- 1st speed ratio is 3:1 (lower gear has 39 teeth, upper gear has 13 teeth... 39 ÷ 13 = 3:1)
- 2nd speed ratio is 2.25:1 for a 16 tooth (lower gear has 36 teeth, upper gear has 16 teeth... 36 ÷ 16 = 2.25).
- 3rd speed ratio is 1:1 (upper and lower gears have 26 teeth each... 26 ÷ 26 = 1)
- And the ring and pinion gears in all IH Cub Cadets have a 4.6:1 ratio (ring gear has 46 teeth, pinion has 10 teeth... 46 ÷ 10 = 4.6)
The factory-installed gears that originally came in IH Cub Cadet transaxles
(a "transaxle" is the union of a transmission and rear axle in one case)
are 13 tooth 1st gear, 16, 17 or 19 tooth 2nd gear
and 26 tooth 3rd gear. The "tooth" count are the number of teeth
on each upper gear. The 16 tooth 2nd came out in the early 1960's,
while the 19 tooth replaced it in later years.
NOTE: The model 100's used a 16 tooth 2nd gear in serial numbers
65458 through 96765. After that, they went to the 19 tooth second. And a
Cub Cadet having a factory installed 17 tooth 2nd gear is rather
rare. To find the gear ratio, always divide the number of teeth on
the lower gear by the number of teeth on the upper gear. Place a mark on
one tooth and then count the other teeth until you get back to the mark.
The mating upper and lower gears together have a total of 52 teeth. There
are no exceptions. For example: 2nd speed has 19 teeth on the
upper gear and 33 teeth on the lower gear to equal 52 teeth total (19 + 33
= 52). And 3rd speed have two 26 tooth gears, resulting in a total
of 52 teeth (26 + 26 = 52). And so forth. Factory stock OEM gear ratios are
as follows:
- 1st speed ratio is 3:1 (lower gear has 39 teeth, upper gear has 13 teeth... 39 ÷ 13 = 3:1)
- 2nd speed ratio is either 2.25:1 for a 16 tooth (lower gear has 36 teeth, upper gear has 16 teeth... 36 ÷ 16 = 2.25); 2.06:1 for a 17 tooth (lower gear has 35 teeth, upper gear has 17 teeth...35 ÷ 17 = 2.06) and 1.74:1 for a 19 tooth (lower gear has 33 teeth, upper gear has 19 teeth... 33 ÷ 19 = 1.74)
- 3rd speed ratio is always 1:1 (upper and lower gears have 26 teeth each... 26 ÷ 26 = 1)
- The gear ratio in the reduction housing of the DIRECT DRIVE MODELS is 7:1 (lower gear has 84 teeth, top gear has 12 teeth... 84 ÷ 12 = 7)
- The ring and pinion gears in all IH Cub Cadets have a 4.6:1 ratio (ring gear has 46 teeth, pinion has 10 teeth... 46 ÷ 10 = 4.6)
The number of factors to take into consideration when choosing the right gearing for a garden pulling tractor are:
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(Added 9/7/12) If a pulling club's rules require that 23-10.50x12 [Carlisle Super Lug or Vogel] tires to be used, then these tires can be mounted on 12" wide wheels. I've seen this done many times on pulling tractors with great results. The wider wheels will allow the tire tread to lay flatter for better traction, but it'll also shorten the overall tire height slightly which will reduce the tractor's ground speed. Therefore, to regain the ground speed, if it's a Cub Cadet, perhaps installing 10% overdrive gears should do the trick. Also, 23-10.50x12 inner tubes may need to be installed to get the tire(s) to take air due to the wider wheels and narrow tires.
Rule of thumb in choosing the
right gear ratios are as follows: NOTE: The following statements
are meant only as a reference. The right gearing depends mainly on the strength
and/or size of the engine and track conditions. And when it comes to pulling
competition, nothing is really certain. Weights shown is with
driver.
- For a 1050 lb. tractor with 26x12.00-12 cut tread lug tires, a 4,000 rpm factory stock 8hp engine and a 13" hitch height, one could pull in just 1st gear all the time. But if the same tractor has 23x10.50-12 cut tread lug tires and a 10" hitch height, one could pull a stock 16 tooth 2nd gear. But could probably pull with a slightly faster gear with narrower cut tread lug tires.
- For a 1050 lb. tractor with 26x12.00-12 cut tread lug tires, a 4,000 rpm factory stock 10hp engine and a 13" hitch height, one can pull all the time in 1st gear. If the same tractor has 23x10.50-12 cut tread lug tires and a 10" hitch height, one could pull a stock 19 tooth 2nd gear.
- For a 900 lb. tractor with 26x12.00-12 cut tread lug tires, a 4,000 rpm factory stock 10hp engine and a 13" hitch height could pull a stock 13 tooth 1st gear and 14/15 tooth 2nd/3rd gear set. If the engine is built to the max @ 4,000 rpms, it could pull a stock 13 tooth 1st gear with a 13 tooth (10%) overdrive pinion, and 14/15 tooth 2nd/3rd gear set. This combination of 3 forward pulling gears will be an equivalent to a 14 tooth 1st, 15 tooth 2nd and 16 tooth 3rd. If the same tractor weighs 1050 lbs., remove the 10% overdrive pinion.
- For a 1050 lb. tractor with 26x12.00-12 cut tread lug tires, a 4,000 rpm factory stock 12hp engine and a 13" hitch height, one could pull all the time with a stock 16 tooth 2nd gear, or a 15/16 tooth 2nd/3rd gear set could work, too. As for 23x10.50-12 tires and a 10" hitch height, one could pull a 17/19 tooth 2nd/3rd gear set.
- For a 1050 lb. tractor with 26x12.00-12 cut tread lug tires, a 4,000 rpm factory stock 16hp engine and a 13" hitch height, a 19 tooth 2nd gear would probably do just fine. Or, installing an 18/20 tooth 2nd/3rd gear set could work also. If it has a set of 23x10.50-12 tires and a 10" hitch, it could pull a 22/24 tooth 2nd/3rd gear set.
- For a 1050 lb. tractor with 26x12.00-12 cut tread lug tires, a Stock-Altered 16hp engine and a 13" hitch height, a 19 tooth 2nd gear with a 10% overdrive pinion would probably do just fine. Or, installing an 20/21 tooth 2nd/3rd gear set could work also.
- The 950 lb. NQS 30 c.i. tractor could pull a 18/19 (replaces 1st and reverse gears) and 20/21 tooth 2nd/3rd gears, combination 4 speed gear set.
- The 1050 lb. 16hp (37 c.i.) Missouri Super-Stock tractor could pull a 20/21 (replaces 1st and reverse gears) and 22/23 tooth 2nd/3rd gears, combination 4 speed gear set.
- The 1050 lb. 50.5 c.i. NQS Super-Stock (Missouri Modified) tractor could pull a 23/24 (replaces 1st and reverse gears) and 25/26 tooth 2nd/3rd gears, combination 4 speed gear set.
Remember, there's about a 600 rpm difference (reduction or increase) in gearing between one set of gears with a particular number of teeth and another set of gears with one tooth more or one tooth less.
The reason for a combination 2nd and 3rd speed gear
set is to slow down the tires in 2nd gear when pulling on a biting
track (moistened, sticky surface), which will provide more traction and reserve
engine power, because the tires probably wouldn't be able to spin as easily.
With a slightly faster 3rd gear, (faster than 2nd gear,
but slower than factory-stock 3rd gear), would perform better
on a hard, dry or loose track (which will allow the tires to spin more easily),
will provide more ground speed without sacrificing engine power. So having
a double gear set is better than pulling in just one gear all the time, which
is either too slow or too fast. Click the photo to the right for a larger
view.
OR,
the stock OEM 10 tooth pinion gear can be swapped out with an aftermarket
13 tooth pinion gear and the large OEM reduction gear can still be used.
This will increase the drive gears about 1 tooth. If you want your tractor
to go faster, then both the pinion and reduction gears must be changed. See
picture è
To replace the reduction shaft/gear (small pinion gear), first pry out the oil seal, then remove the snap ring and then drive the shaft out from the rear of the housing with a hammer and 1/2" round steel rod. Be careful not to damage the needle bearing. After you install the new shaft, apply a thin bead of Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant to seal the bearing in the rear of the housing.
Or, to remove a pinion and not destroy any parts (seal, etc.) use a "slide hammer" and put an angle or channel steel to use as a lever. Using this method, you do not damage even the most stubborn pinion. You can reuse everything and don't have to worry about any leaks.
By the way - I can't get the oil seal for the input shaft/gear because it's a Cub Cadet dealer item only, and I'm not a Cub Cadet dealer or reseller. But I will tell you that the part # for it is IH-385076-R92 (replaces IH-385076-R91). Retails for about $16.85. (As of 8/12)
No machine work is required when installing overdrive gears. Just remove the small upper pinion gear and the large lower gear and install the aftermarket gears.
And when reassembling a Cub Cadet gear drive transaxle, there's no need to install any gaskets. A thin bead of Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant can be used to reassemble the entire transaxle components instead of gaskets. That's what I've always used on my transaxles since 1989 and to this day, they haven't leaked any oil. Besides, OEM Cub Cadet transaxle gaskets are VERY expensive! And by eliminating gaskets, the silicone "strengthens" the transaxle housings by securely "bonding" them together or having them make positive metal-to-metal contact, which keeps the bolts securely tight, plus the silicone fills in any imperfections between the two metals, eliminating oil leaks.
FYI - If oil leaks from an engine, transmission/transaxle or steering box, causing an oily mess on a concrete floor, mineral spirits (paint thinner) can be used to dry out the oil. Just pour some thinner on the oil, use an old broom to thoroughly mix the thinner with the oil, and eventually the oil will dry with no signs of it ever being on the floor. Because of its low volatile flammability, paint thinner also works great as a cleaning solvent, which is used to clean oily or greasy mechanical parts.
The Cub Cadet "Creeper Drive Unit" -
The Cub Cadet "creeper drive unit" is a 2-speed selective high/low gearbox. It's a small gearbox that mounts on the front of the Cub Cadet transaxle. When the lever is placed in LOW position (reduction speed; 2:1 ratio), all the gears in the transaxle are reduced by half, which means the tractor will move half its speed, in forward and reverse. When the lever is placed in HIGH position (1:1 ratio), the gears in the transaxle turn their normal speeds. Creeper drives are required when mowing heavy grass, plowing a garden, pushing snow or hauling heavy loads up a steep hill, doing all this especially with a small engine and for safety. The creeper drive unit was optional equipment that was offered by Cub Cadet. The same cast iron case creeper drive unit fits all models of IH Cub Cadets, except the "Original" Cub Cadet.
If your tractor didn't come
with a creeper drive unit and you wish to install one, here's how to do it:
- Remove the driveshaft/clutch assembly and entire transaxle from the tractor.
- Install the small splined gear onto the input shaft on the transaxle with a spiral roll pin.
- Apply Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant or use a gasket and fasten the creeper drive unit gearbox to the transaxle.
- Shorten the driveshaft where the machined groove is, or if there's no groove, cut exactly 4-3/4" off the rear of the driveshaft.
- Install the coupler on the driveshaft and reinstall the transaxle and driveshaft/clutch assembly in the tractor in reverse order of removal.
- Go here to learn more: http://cubfaq.com/creeper.html.
To acquire a creeper drive unit, look on eBay (under keyword Cub Cadet) or request to have a want ad posted in my web site: FREE Advertisement Posting Page. And remember, when a creeper drive unit is acquired and before installing in the tractor, first make sure it's in good condition, and that you received the splined coupler and all the hardware with it. It's useless otherwise.
Although ordinary motor oil can be used, it's best to use SAE 90 gear oil when filling the creeper unit for long life and less wear on the parts. And as with all transmissions, transaxles and creeper drives, before shifting the gears, be sure to bring the tractor to a complete stop with the clutch pedal fully depressed to allow the gears to stop spinning and to avoid "grinding the gears" and possibly breaking or wearing the gears. Go here if you need part numbers and/or parts for a creeper drive unit: Creeper Drive parts for the Cub Cadet model 100. NOTE: Due to their age, some parts are no longer available for these units.
The Cub Cadet aluminum case
creeper drive units that was made by MTD will also fit and bolt right up
to the older IH Cub Cadet transaxles (except the Original), but the upper
part of the tractor frame will need to be modified on models 70, 71, 72,
73 and 100 to accommodate the larger MTD creeper drive unit body. And the
driveshaft will still need to be shortened 4-3/4".
If you're using either old or new gears, it's always a good
idea to install a bracket on the chassis (tractor frame) to hold the shift
lever in gear when pulling. If pulling in 2nd gear only, the bracket
can be made of 1/8" x 1" flat steel, or just use an adjustable yoke end.
For pulling in 2nd and 3rd speed gears, make the bracket
of 1/4" x 1" flat steel. Use a single 3/8" bolt (stud size) to fasten the
bracket to the chassis. Measure accurately before fabricating and permanently
installing!
It's best to lock the shifter in gear despite the best gears/shafts/bearing retainers installed and if the gears are properly aligned. Because sometimes they'll still jump out of gear under hard pulling pressure. I believe there's no bigger disappointment and embarrassment than having your tractor jump out of gear on the track, especially when you knew there was a chance that it would jump out of jump.
Sometimes
while the tractor is connected to a heavy trailer, or still hooked to the
sled just after a pull, the clutch(es) on a Cub
Cadet will refuse to release (with the clutch pedal fully depressed, of course)
and at the same time the puller/operator tries to force the shift lever into
the neutral position, this may cause the transmission gears to become locked
up.
If this has happens, to fix this, first, the entire transaxle will need to be removed from the tractor's frame, or just move it back enough so the shifter cover can be removed. After that, use a large flat screwdriver to shift the gears into the neutral position. (That's when the slots in the shift forks [where the shift lever ball end fits into] are aligned.) Then, you'll notice that the shifter forks are flared out. Use a hammer to bring them back together so the shifter ball will fit snugly into them. Due to worn gears and pulling force, these slots will sometimes flare out on their own.
To replace a broken shifter fork, first, remove the rod it attaches to. To do so, remove the transaxle from the tractor, remove the front gear reduction housing, remove the rear end cover, and then use a long drift (3/8" bendable steel rod) to drive the shifter rod forward from the transaxle case. Be sure to place a finger over the hole so the small steel ball and spring won't pop out and possibly get lost. Reassembly is in reverse order of removal.
To prevent the
gears from locking up again, first, make sure that the slots are properly
aligned and they're not flared out. Then place a bead of weld on each side
of the shift forks as shown in the picture to the right so they won't spread
out again. The weld will prevent the slots from spreading again and also
keep the clamp bolts from loosening.
And in high-torque engine tractors, the mainshaft (upper shaft) could become twisted, resulting in total lock up of all the gears. Contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises for quality hardened gears, shafts, ring gears and other Cub Cadet transaxle components.
The Cause for Reverse to "Jump Out" of Gear -
If the transaxle jumps out of reverse, especially when backing up a slight grade (hill), this means either the shift forks are bent and need straightening and welding. Or the gear teeth on the reverse idler are worn and the gear itself needs to be replaced. The gear teeth on the 1st/reverse sliding gear suffers the same abuse, so it should be replaced, too. What cause this is when the operator don't come to a full stop before shifting into reverse. Instead, they grind the transmission into reverse, which wears off the gear teeth. The gear teeth loses their "squareness," and cannot stay engaged correctly. The same thing happens with the reverse idler gear in automotive transmissions. To replace the reverse idler and 1st/reverse gears, the entire transmission or transaxle must be completely disassembled. There is no other way to fix this.
By the way - all IH gear drive transaxles use the same shifter forks from the "Original" until MTD made the 3 piece aluminum case. And you use caution if using an aluminum case transaxle for competitive pulling. Aluminum don't have the strength that the cast iron ones does. When pressure is applied to the case (the gears pushing against each other under stress; the case is what holds the gears together), the aluminum case will sometimes crack or break.
Posted:
3/13/13 | From: Brian Miller of Columbia, MO | Phone: 573-875-4033
| Email:
pullingtractor@aol.com
For Sale: New Gear Sets from True Gear. 13/17 tooth gear set to replace
1st/2nd gears (for a 4 speed setup). $120.00. 19/21 tooth gear set to replace
2nd/3rd gears. $120.00. Shipping & handling for either set will be $12.00
in a US Postal Medium Flat Rate Box within the US.
Advertisement:
If you need any of the parts and/or services listed below,
please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd.
| Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA |
 Phone: 1-573-875-4033. Please
call Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time. If no answer, please try again
later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
 Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
 E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. You can
also contact us through Yahoo! Messenger:
More of our parts & services: Transmission, Transaxle Parts, Rebuilds & Machine Shop Services |
||
 We are an Authorized Dealer for
the Super Tough TRUE GEAR Pulling Gears and Hardened Top
Shaft!
NOTE: True Gear stocks a lot of gears, but late Winter through early Spring is the rush time when they fill most dealers' orders. Customers' orders may be delayed due to this fact. |
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| Custom
Two Upper Cluster Slider Gears and Two Lower Stationary Gears for Cub Cadets.
Tooth count on upper cluster gear and matching bottom gear adds up to
52. Listed are the most popular sets.
1st and reverse gears (The 1st & reverse gears can have all the tooth counts for what ratio you would like; 13t over 14 teeth up to 29 teeth), 14/15, 14/16, 15/16, 15/17 , 16/17, 16/18, 17/18, 17/19, 18/19, 18/20, 19/20, 19/21, 20/21, 20/22, 21/22, 21/23, 22/23, 22/24, 23/24, 23/25, 24/25, 24/26, 25/26, 25/27, 26/27. Other gear sets are also available; from 13 teeth to 28 teeth in any combination you would like. Sets includes upper and lower gears. Exception: for the upper 13 tooth cluster gear, reuse the OEM Cub Cadet 39 tooth lower gear. $120.00 per set, plus shipping & handling. Click photo for a larger view. Custom Gears Installation Information: On the custom 2nd and 3rd gear set, the bottom gears are wider than the Cub Cadet OEM bottom gears. Therefore, the cone-shaped spacer at the front of the lower pinion shaft will need to be narrowed about .050" so the pinion gear will mesh correctly with the ring gear. Exception: for the 13 tooth cluster gear, reuse the OEM Cub Cadet 39 tooth bottom gear. And if the upper gears are larger in diameter than the OEM gears, the shifter fork may need grinding for clearance. Or if the gears are really big, a billet shifter fork will need to be installed. Otherwise, 1st and reverse gears and everything else should remain the same in the transaxle. |
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 New,
Overdrive and Underdrive Constant Mesh Gear Sets for Cub Cadets -
|
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 New,
True Gear Heavy Duty / Hardened Ring and Pinion Gears for IH Cub Cadets:
$400.00 each set, plus shipping & handling. Note: The
OEM IH Cub Cadet ring or pinion gears will not properly engage with True
Gear's ring or pinion gears. Neither can be used with True Gear ring and
pinions because True Gear ring and pinions have additional metal in the tooth
area to hold up to the added stress of pulling. Click
photo for a larger view. |
Used and in excellent condition
OEM Cub Cadet Ring and Pinion Gears. Click photo for a larger
view.
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 New,
True Gear 13 tooth/5% overdrive input pinion shaft/gear. Speeds up all
transmission gears about one tooth for more ground speed. $80.00 each,
plus shipping & handling. Click photo for a larger view.
Used, but in excellent condition, OEM IH Cub Cadet 12 tooth input pinion shaft/gear. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.) |
 New
high quality, high speed precision ball bearing for input pinion shaft/gear
above. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-384709-R1. Dimensions:
.66" i.d. x 1.57" o.d. x .47" width. $7.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. Part # 6203-2RS |
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 Used
and in excellent condition OEM Cub Cadet ring gear.
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Top Shafts -
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 Used and in excellent
condition, light duty, one-piece cast iron IH Cub Cadet carrier. Good
for general yard use in a Cub Cadet with a single cylinder engine. Not for
heavy towing or competitive pulling. [When available.]
Used and in excellent condition, heavy duty, one piece, "thick casting" cast iron IH Cub Cadet differential carrier assemblies for coarse spline axles. [When available]. This particular carrier is good for a stock pulling tractor running at 4,000 rpm or for heavy yard use. They're not as strong as the two piece MTD fine spline carrier, or the Dodge or Pinto units. [When available.]
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 Used IH Cub Cadet coarse spline
axle shaft with wheel flange. These are in excellent condition,
not twisted, bent or damaged. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-531179-R1. (New: $505.00
each from Cub Cadet dealer!) $20.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
[When available.] |
 Used IH Cub
Cadet coarse spline axle shaft with disc brake and wheel
flange. These are in excellent condition, not twisted, bent
or damaged. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-531180-R2. (New: $701.00 each from Cub
Cadet dealer!) $150.00 each, plus shipping & handling. [When
available.] |
|
 7/16-20 NF x 1-1/2"
long (thread length) hardened steel screw-in studs for easier mounting of
wheels on rear axle flanges. Made in USA. NOTE: Not for tractors with
external brake disc welded to axle. Replaces Cub Cadet part # 710-3027.
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 7/16-20 NF hardened
steel screw-in studs for easier mounting of wheels on rear axle flanges with
external disc/axle brakes. Made in USA Each set includes 10 studs and 10
jam nuts. Replaces Cub Cadet part # 710-3027.
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 7/16-20 NF open-end zinc-plated
lug/wheel nuts for steel wheels. NOTE: The mounting holes in steel wheels
will need to be drilled (enlarged) to 21/32" diameter, to allow these lug
nuts to seat properly, stay tight and keep the wheel centered.
$20.00 per set of 10, plus shipping. |
 7/16-20 NF
closed-end chrome acorn lug nuts for steel wheels. NOTE: The mounting
holes in wheels will need to be drilled (enlarged) to 21/32" diameter, to
allow these lug nuts to seat properly, stay tight and keep the wheel
centered. $25.00 per set of 10, plus shipping. |
|
 Bronze Bushings
for IH Cub Cadet axle housings with 1" axle shafts. Dimensions: 1" i.d. x
1.125" o.d. x 1" length. Direct replacement with no machining required. Bronze
bushings are originally installed in the "Original" Cub Cadet and models
70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 122. All other models have needle bearings. Replaces
Cub Cadet part # IH-384664-R2 (obsolete). $8.00/pair, plus shipping
& handling. Our part # 153-227 |
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 Roller Needle Bearings to replace bronze bushings in
IH Cub Cadet axle housings with 1" axle shafts. Free up some friction with
a high-speed pulling tractor! Made of high quality heat-treated steel. NOTE:
Not a direct replacement for OEM IH Cub Cadet needle bearings because these
have a smaller outside diameter. Axle housings with a bronze bushing will
need to be bored precisely to 1.250" to accept these bearings. Dimensions:
1" i.d. x 1-1/4" o.d. x 3/4" length. $20.00/pair, plus shipping
& handling. Our part # 158-352 |
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 Oil seals for 1"
diameter IH Cub Cadet rear axle shafts. Direct replacement for
IH Cub Cadet axle housing oil seals with no machining required. Also fits
various other makes and models of garden tractor transaxles and garden tiller
gearboxes. Dimensions: 1" i.d x 1-1/2" o.d. x 1/4" thickness. Replaces Cub
Cadet part # 921-0187. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Our
part # 27897 |
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 Bronze Bushing
and Oil Seal Kit to install MTD Cub Cadet 30mm axles in IH Cub Cadet 1" axle
housings. Bushing dimensions: 30mm i.d. x 34mm o.d. x 30mm long. Oil seal
dimensions: 1-3/16" i.d. x 1-11/16" o.d. x 1/4" thickness. Axle housings
MUST be machined to accept these bushings and oil seals. $14.00 per
kit, plus shipping & handling. Our part #'s 116-970, 805101S (Limited
quantity on bushings. As of 4/17/13, only 4 in stock.) |
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 Axle Retaining
E-Clips for Cub Cadet Coarse and Fine Spline Axles -
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 New Hydrostatic
Transmission Oil Filter. Fits IH Cub Cadet models 123, 105, 107, 125, 127,
147, 109, 129, 149, 680, 682, 782, 784, 882, 982, 984, 986, 1210, 1250, 1282,
1340, 1450, 1512, 1650, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1860, 1862, 1882, 2082, 2182 and
2284. Replaces Cub Cadet IH-395789-R2, 723-3014 & 923-3014. Dimensions:
3 1/2" o.d. x 3 3/4" height, Thread Size: 3/4-16 NF. Micron: 16. Made in
USA. $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Our part # 19-6680
or 120-265. |
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Machine Shop Services -
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Repair "sloppy"
Cub Cadet shifter assembly. $35.00 labor, plus return shipping &
handling. If interested, I will need entire shifter assembly, including
the housing assembly (cover plate).
How to Replace a Broken Shifter Fork in an IH Cub Cadet Transaxle -
- Drain the oil from the transaxle.
- Remove the transaxle from the tractor and place it on a sturdy work bench or table.
- Remove the rear cover.
- Remove the large gear that's in the front gear reduction housing and remove the gear reduction housing itself.
- Remove the shifter lever/top cover assembly.
- Remove the shifter fork retaining bolt.
- Rotate the shifter rail with pliers to unseat the poppet ball.
- Using a bendable 3/8" steel rod, drive the shifter rod out of the transaxle housing forward and out of the housing. Be sure to hold your finger over the hole for the poppet bore to prevent the ball from flying out when the rail are being removed!
- The shifter fork can then be lifted out.
- Installation is in reverse order of removal. Except use a 1/4" roll pin punch to depress the poppet ball so the shifter rod can be inserted.
How to Replace a Leaking Rear Axle Oil Seal in a Cub Cadet Garden Tractor -
- Drain the oil from the transaxle unit. If there's no drain plug present, then remove the rear cover to drain the oil.
- Remove the rear cover.
- Remove the E clip snap ring from the axle that has the leaking oil seal. Actually, it's best to replace the oil seals for both axles to prevent from having to do this again in the near future.
- Pull the axle out of the housing.
- Reassembly is in reverse order of disassembly.
How to Change the Gears in an IH Cub Cadet Transaxle -
To replace 2nd and 3rd speed gears, the entire transaxle must be removed from the tractor and completely disassembled. But first, when you get the replacement gears, stack them on top of each other, arrange them in the order they go in the transmission, to see if the centers match up. Align them perfectly, too. If in fact they do match up, mark each one to avoid confusion during the installation process. After doing this, you can drain the oil from the transaxle, and then remove the transaxle from the tractor. (By the way - the transaxle, completely assembled, weighs 150 lb. So if you have trouble lifting it by yourself, ask someone to help.) With the housing on a sturdy work bench, support it with wood blocks. Now, remove the reduction drive unit, then remove the rear cover. The rear differential unit (carrier assembly) must be removed first in order to replace the gears.
The procedure to remove the carrier assembly is as follows:
- Drain the oil from the transaxle.
- Remove the rear cover
- Use a large flat screwdriver and hammer or two large flat screwdrivers to remove the E-clip snap rings from the inner ends of the axles and then pull the axles out of the housings.
- Remove the axle housings
- Remove the bearing flanges.
- The carrier assembly can now be removed from the transaxle housing.
Exploded View of the IH "Original" Cub Cadet Differential and Shifter
Assembly
(The IH Later Model Cub Cadet Differential Assembly Gearbox is
Similar)
To remove the differential unit, first remove the 3-bolt flanges from the
housing. NOTE - identify the number and thickness of shims removed from the
each side for aid in reassembly. And it may be necessary remove the side
bearings from the differential case for ease of removal. Then remove the
differential carrier from the case. To remove the carrier, remove the flanges
on each side of the case, then carefully remove the carrier.
Now, remove the shift lever/top cover assembly. Remove the shift fork retaining bolts. Rotate the shifter rails with pliers to unseat the poppet balls. Using a long drift (or rod) from the differential end, drive out the shifter rails forward and out of the housing. CAUTION! Hold your fingers over the holes or insert a 1/4" roll pin punch into the poppet bores to prevent the balls from flying out when the rails are being removed!
Remove the bolts from the main shaft bearing retainer and bump the main shaft and bearing forward and out of the housing. The upper 1st and 2nd/3rd sliding gears can be removed as the shaft is removed from the housing. Inspect the reverse idler gear for excessive wear or damage and replace it if necessary. Otherwise, the reverse idler gear doesn't need to be removed.
Remove the countershaft nut and bump the shaft rearward out of the housing. The lower gears and spacers can now be removed. Note the sequence of the spacers and gears for correct reassembly!
Correct Installation of Cub Cadet Gears and Spacers on Countershaft
(Bevel Pinion)
Inspect all parts for wear, clean the housing and install the parts in reverse order of above.
NOTE - When installing a set of special-made 2nd and 3rd speed gear set (especially a 21 tooth and higher second speed gear), the shift fork and sometimes the lower (inside) front portion of the transaxle housing may need grinding for gear clearance and for the bottom 3rd gear clearance, because the aftermarket lower 3rd gear is wider than the stock one. After tightening the nut on the pinion shaft, rotate the shaft/gears by hand to check for noise, adequate clearance and smooth rotation before permanently installing! Also, before installing the shifter cover, shift all the gears by hand and check for correct bottom and top gear tooth alignment. Being the center part between the 2nd and 3rd aftermarket upper gears are larger in diameter, you'll probably need to grind out the center "U" shape of the shifter fork. Or if you wish, instead of grinding the original shift forks for clearance, you can order special-made shift forks that will clear the 21 tooth and higher gears from A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises.
The bottom 2nd
and 3rd speed aftermarket pulling gears are wider than the
OEM gears. Therefore, the tapered spacer needs to be narrowed about .060"±.
But measure the thicknesses of the OEM gears and aftermarket gears, and then
subtract the difference from the tapered spacer. None of the other spacers
will need to be narrowed. Doing this will properly align the bottom gears
with the top gears, and it'll prevent pushing the pinion gear too far back,
which will throw off the backlash in the ring and pinion gears. (The correct
backlash of the ring and pinion gears is .003" to .005".) For accuracy and
trouble free service, remove the metal from the spacer by chucking it in
a small metal lathe (with a self-centering 3-jaw chuck). But do not grind
on the lower gear itself! And because the lower 3rd gear is larger
in diameter than the stock one, slight grinding of inside the transmission
case may be needed.
After completion, rotate the gears by hand using the input shaft with the shift forks in the neutral position, the gears should turn freely and there should be no strange sounds. Shift all the gears into position and look at the gear teeth mesh. They should be perfectly aligned. If one or two isn't aligned, then a couple of spacers are in the wrong place. And if there is a noise, the only two things that could be causing it is the shift fork(s) wasn't ground enough to clear the gears or the lower inside portion of the transmission housing to clear the lower 3rd speed gear wasn't ground away enough.
And if you were wondering, ALL Cub Cadet transaxles are offset to the right when standing behind the tractor. They did this so the driveshaft will clear the steering box and so the driveshaft will be inline with the engine crankshaft centerline on the single cylinder Kohler engines.
Installing Three (3) forward pulling gears (with a working reverse gear) - (The two paragraphs below was written by Dan Floyd of Springfield, Missouri. His email address is: jeep30dhf@yahoo.com.)
Installing 3 forward pulling gears is exactly the same as the 4 gear setup with the exception of the reverse idler. You simply cut the opposite end from the spacer end of the reverse idler gear back approximately 1/4" and turn down the spacer end diameter a bit (to clear the gears). The reason for that is you will be moving the gear back towards the case of the transmission a bit. It is really very simple, especially if using the forks and spacers from Midwest Super Cub.
If you want to use your factory shift forks, you will only have to modify one. To do so, cut the forks off of the rail assembly and weld on new ones. I used a large, flat heat-treated washer with a side cut out to make one of mine after doing the first. Just place the gears in position with the rails in what gear it should be aligned the new fork. Tack weld it in place, then you can weld it on the bench to finish it. It isn't any big trick, no remachining the rails, no fancy gear grinding and no headaches. I did use an aftermarket spacer kit for the first transaxle I repaired. I kept the dimensions and made our own for the other installments. Their spacers let you use the original detents on the rails. Plain aluminum round stock can be used.
Listed below are the dimensions for making the spacers on a 3- or 4-speed Cub Cadet transaxle. Spacers listed in order going from the pinion bevel gear (lower shaft) towards nut: (Reverse gear - third or first - fourth gear, depending on gear selection.)
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Installing Four (4) Forward Pulling Gears (with no reverse gear) -
The
two forward gears that replaces the original 1st and reverse gears
installs pretty much the same way a custom set of 2nd and 3rd
gears are installed. Except they install and operate in reverse of
2nd and 3rd gears. To install a set of four (4) forward
gears, you'll need a set of special-made 4-speed shift forks and a 4-speed
gear spacer kit (see pictures above or to the right) from an aftermarket
dealer. To install the gears, the transaxle must be completely disassembled.
Then you'll need to remove the reverse idler gear, shaft and boss. Take a
torch and carefully cut the boss off, then use a die grinder to grind it
smooth. Also grind the casting flash (ragged edges). You also may have to
grind the case for gear clearance depending on the ratios that you choose.
After all the grinding is done and the case has been cleaned, repaint the
bare metal and let dry before reassembly. (Paint prevents oil from seeping
through the cast iron case and making a mess on the outside.) Make sure that
the oil holes that feed the bearings are clear. You could replace the shift
detent springs with the stiffer
YELLOW springs. They're about
3 times stronger than stock springs. Available from
Vogel Manufacturing
Co. (http://www.vogelmanufacturing.com/index1.html).
Cross Sectional View of IH Cub Cadet Transmission
Exploded View of Cub Cadet Transmission Gears and
Components
If your tractor sometimes "skips
a gear tooth" in the transaxle when pulling, this is caused by the flimsy
OEM stamped steel front pinion bearing retainers. They'll flex when placed
under a load. What happens is the lower stationary gears on the pinion gear/shaft
are being pushed forward from the pressure of the ring gear, causing the
bottom gears to become misaligned with the top gears, which allows them to
skip a tooth. This could also cause the ring and pinion gears to skip, chipping
a tooth on the ring gear, or breaking the ring gear.
To prevent "gear skipping" and possibly breaking a tooth off a gear or ruining the ring and pinion gears, you'll need to install a set of billet steel pinion bearing retainers on the bearing where the lower pinion shaft protrudes through the front of the transaxle case. You can get a new set of billet steel pinion bearing retainers from Midwest Super Cub (http://www.midwestsupercub.net/).
The "original" (belt to disc
clutch drive) Cub Cadet had the rear end differential carrier installed with
the spider gears on the right of the ring gear (viewed with the operator
sitting in the seat). The transmission gears turns in the same direction
as the engine.
On the later model (direct disc clutch drive) Cub Cadets, which utilize a gear reduction housing, IH installed the carrier in reverse. The spider gears are on the left of the ring gear. This made the transmission gears turn in the opposite direction as the engine. The early and later carriers, ring and pinion gears are identical and are made to do this.
You must "flip the carrier" if you want to use an engine when the crankshaft PTO end turns counterclockwise when it faces the transaxle. Otherwise, it'll have 3 reverse gears and 1 forward gear.
So if you want to install an engine that turns in the opposite direction on a Cub Cadet, it's safe to flip a carrier to make your tractor go forward in the forward gears. And the ring and pinion gears will still mesh with no problem.
Click here to see a Cub Cadet "Original" with a 9-Speed Transmission!
This section explains which OEM Cub Cadet differential carriers and axles are best to use for pulling, and how to machine two different automotive differential carriers and axles for installation into a Cub Cadet transaxle.
Depending on the class your tractor is going to pull in and engine size/modifications, there are many variations in which clutch/driveshaft design and carrier/axles to use. Listed are the weakest to the strongest:
- For the driveshaft material, there's mild steel, stress proof steel, chrome-moly steel and stainless steel.
- As for the clutch, there's the single OEM Cub Cadet fiber clutch disc with a stiffer pressure spring, a single aluminum clutch disc, also with a stiffer pressure spring, double OEM Cub Cadet clutch discs with a stiffer pressure spring, the metallic clutch disc with a stiffer pressure spring, multiple clutch discs (Vogel) with a stiffer pressure spring, VW clutch/pressure plate/flywheel, etc.
- And as for the carrier and axles, there's the OEM Cub Cadet heavy duty one-piece carrier with either coarse or fine spline axles, OEM Cub Cadet's (MTD) two-piece fine spline carrier and axles, Ford Pinto carrier and axles, Chrysler's 7-1/4" carrier and axles, and Ford's 8" carrier and axles.
The stock Cub Cadet differential carrier (the part that the ring gear is fastened onto) is made from inferior or weak cast iron material. This means that they're not suitable for extreme pulling competition. Most unprotected stock carriers will break when used with a 13" hitch height, sharpened 26x12.00-12 tires and especially when hooked to a very heavy sled.
What happens is this: when a tractor is pulling, and when the weight of the sled comes up on the tractor, force on the spider gears (side gears and differential pinion gears, the four angled gears that's inside the carrier) places extreme outward pressure on the differential carrier, causing it to explode without warning. To reduce the chances of this happening, read below. Also, if you're running a lightweight pulling tractor (900 lb. w/driver) with a hitch height that's below the center line of the rear axle (10" hitch height), and small diameter rear tires (23x10.50-12), you don't have to worry about a stock carrier or axles breaking. The transfer weight of the tractor won't be placing that much strain on them.
What is the maximum horsepower recommended with a stock Cub Cadet carrier?
I don't think that question has just one answer. Because it's not necessarily horsepower that breaks a stock IH Cub Cadet coarse spline carrier and axles. The combination of engine size and torque, gearing of the tractor, weight of the tractor, tire size, if the tires have cut tread or not, hitch height, weight of the sled and track conditions all play a part in rather if a stock carrier and axles will break or not. To put it plain and simple, a heavy tractor with 26-12.00x12 cut tread tires and a 13" hitch height that pulls in 1st gear on a biting track is murder on a stock carrier and axles.
Use a "Heavy Duty" One Piece IH Differential Carrier for Competitive Pulling -
Most IH Cub Cadets that originally
came with a single cylinder engine have a thin cast iron carrier. These carriers
are weak and have been known to break under pulling strain, even when "strapped."
But the carriers out of the IH Cub Cadet models 582, 782 and 982 (red color tractors with a twin cylinder engine) are made of thicker cast iron material, which makes them stronger than the early "thin" IH carriers. In most cases, these carriers will hold up under pulling with a stock engine. The early "thicker" carriers used coarse spline axles. But the newer "thicker" carriers used fine spline axles. When installed in a stock pulling tractor, the fine spline axles shouldn't twist and break. And the two-piece MTD fine spline carriers are much stronger yet.
Weld the Spider Gears Together to Strengthen the Stock Cub Cadet Differential Carrier -
A sure way to prevent a stock carrier from breaking is to weld the spider (side and pinion) gears together. I don't have a picture, but the spider gears are welded together where they make contact with each other. A welded or "locked" rear end will definitely provide superior pulling traction. But on the other hand, the tractor won't be as maneuverable as one with a free-spinning rear end. This means it would require a large area just to turn it around. Also, some extra weight (approximately 10 lb.) may be required on the front of the tractor to control it while going down the track. If one does decide to weld the spider gears, the carrier won't need a strap. Because under pulling stress, the spider gears wants to push outward, causing the differential carrier to break. But if the gears are welded, they can't push outward and break the carrier. Just weld the teeth together so they won't rotate on each other. And there's no need to remove the carrier out of the rear-end to weld the spider gears. You can reach in through the rear of the housing and weld side, then rotate the carrier and weld the other side. It's that simple. Use mild steel welding wire or rod to securely weld the spider gears together. Use some kind of metal shield to keep the welding splatter off the ring gear teeth. NOTE - welding of these gears is permanent! It cannot be undone!
A word
of caution before welding the spider gears: if there's inadequate weight
on the front of the tractor, a welded rear end could cause a high-speed pulling
tractor to wander from side to side on the track. Therefore, that's why most
pullers prefer an open (free spinning spider gears) rear end.
KEEP THIS IN MIND: If running
you're a 13" hitch height and 26x12.00-12 tires, isn't a "100% guarantee"
that stock [coarse spline] axles won't break. The above methods only lessens
the chances of them breaking. If you have a high horsepower engine, it's
best to install a re-machined automotive carrier and axles. Scroll down to
find out what it takes to machine an automotive carrier and axles yourself.
And as far I know, there's no posi-trac clutch packs for any carrier that
can fit in the Cub Cadet transaxle. Therefore, the only way to make both
axles pull at the same time in a Cub Cadet is weld the spider gears together.
Using Coarse Spline IH Cub Cadet Axles -
Anything with coarse splines will twist or break a lot easier than anything with fine splines. That's why the stock Cub Cadet axles twist or break easily, and that's also why late-model automobiles use only fine splines throughout the entire driveline, including the axles. Factory-hardened Cub Cadet coarse spline axles will ALWAYS twist at the splines whenever too much torque is applied to them. So when using coarse spline axles, try to use a set that's heat-treated to the center. To check for this, drill into the the center of the splined in. If the drill bit cannot bore into the axle, then the center is heat-treated. But if it bores into the axles, then the center is not heat-treated and the axle may break easily.
"Gun drilling" axles or making
them hollow inline with the splines are is not a "100% guarantee" that they
won't twist or break in pulling competition. But it will add approximately
15% more strength in the spline area. And stock axles should only be used
in a pulling tractor with a stock engine, with an operating governor - maximum
4,000 rpm engine speed.
Install a Fine Spline Differential Carrier and Axles For Additional Strength -
Some of the later IH Cub Cadet models 682, 782, 1282 and maybe
a few others have the fine spline side gears and 1" diameter axles, and the
early-style cast iron carrier, which have thicker metal for increased strength.
This carrier is about 75% stronger than the earlier coarse spline carriers.
These carriers and axles can be used in a stock pulling tractor. Only certain
carriers and axles in the red color Cub Cadets are fine spline. You can't
tell from the outside. The rear cover must be removed and an axle pulled
to see if it has fine spline axles. As far as I know, the early model IH
582's and all of the model IH 1282's came with these particular carrier and
axles. These came in IH Cub Cadet models below serial number 720,000 (582,
682, 782 & 1282).
At 720,000 they kept the 1"
fine spline axles and upgraded the carrier to the 2 pc. These models go from
the late red 82 series and continue with all the models with that same body
style (1811, 1806, 1210 etc). These models had the all aluminum transaxle
case but still had the hex shaped axle housings. This setup will drop right
in an older Cast iron rear without any machine work to the axle tubes. The
ring gear needs swapped over to the new carrier.
Beginning at serial # 800,000 (for the 1990 model year) they changed the styling by changing the hood and grille to plastic. These models are often referred to as the "cyclops" series because they have a single headlight lens that covers the two bulbs. These models kept the same 2pc carrier but the outer end of the axle had its diameter increased to 30mm. These models have the larger round axle housings and use ball bearings at the outer end of the axle instead of the needle bearings. To use these axles and carrier in an older cast rear, the axle housings need bored out and larger bearings and seals put in.
The two-piece/bolt-together fine spline carrier and 30 millimeter (1-3/16")
fine spline axles were manufactured by MTD (Modern Tool & Die) and not
International Harvester. This carrier and axles will fit in the early [coarse
spline] IH Cub Cadet transaxles with no modifications, with the exception
of swapping out the ring gear, carrier bearings and enlarging the axle housing
ends for larger bearings and oil seals for the bigger 30 mm axles.
These units were used in the
heavier [spread frame] garden tractors (mostly with a twin cylinder engine),
and found in all Cub Cadets manufactured by MTD after serial number
xxxxxxxx720000 (1983 and later). The serial number will probably have a long
row of numbers, but if the last six numbers are higher than 720000, the tractor
should have the fine spline carrier and axles. This includes all late model
yellow and white gear- and hydrostatic-drive Cub Cadets with an aluminum
transaxle case, except the model 582 Special, which have a Peerless 2300
series transaxle. (The 2300 series are very tough transaxles.) An easy way
to identify the MTD fine spline axles is they have pressed-in automotive-style
wheel studs w/lug nuts and not the screw-in lug bolts to fasten the wheels
to the axle flange. The center of the flanges have that "automotive look"
because the flanges are cast onto the axles and not welded. These may be
quite as strong as the automotive carriers and axles. (See further down.)
All Cub Cadet models that have the "heavy duty" fine spline carrier and axles
are listed in the following link:
Click here to identify which
year of MTD Cub Cadet you may have.
The new style bolt-together MTD
fine spline carrier is much stronger than the older cast iron one and the
ends of the fine spline axles are larger and much stronger than the old coarse
spline axles. There's no need to center drill through the axle splines either.
In most cases, the ring gear may need to be swapped with an older IH angle-cut
gear teeth ring gear because the ring gear teeth on the hydrostatic drive
models of MTD Cub Cadet tractors are straight-cut. The old style IH ring
gears will bolt directly to the fine spline carrier with no modifications,
and the side bearing caps (flanges) will also interchange with the IH housing.
They're a direct fit.
The splines on the IH and MTD fine spline axles are the same. The only difference is the IH axles are 1" in diameter the length of the axle, and the MTD axles are 30 mm at the wheel flange. This means when using MTD axles with IH axle housings, the ends of the housings will need to be bored to accept 30mm i.d. bushings or needle bearings in order for them to work.
The fine spline axles from an IH Cub Cadet are 1" in diameter. And the axles from all MTD Cub Cadets are much bigger, they're 30 millimeter (1.181" or close to 1-3/16") in diameter when measured at the wheel flange. When installing the fine spline axles (and carrier) in an IH Cub Cadet, larger bearings in the axle housings must be installed, too. One of the axle housings on the MTD's won't work on an IH Cub Cadet because the flange is too wide. Therefore, the IH axle housings will need to be bored and bronze bushings or steel needle-roller bearings (and oil seals) will need to be installed for the 30mm axles. The needle-roller bearings from the MTD housings can be reused and installed in the IH housings. But the oil seals should be purchased new.
NOTE: When installing the
MTD fine spline, Chrysler or Pinto axles in an IH transaxle, and if the IH
Cub Cadet has external axle [disc] brakes, the MTD or automotive axles won't
work because the MTD brake discs are too big in diameter, and the automotive
axles have no brake discs. Therefore,
Midwest
Super Cub offers aftermarket disc brake add-ons. Otherwise, an IH internal
brake transaxle would need to be installed in the tractor.
Oil seals for the 30 mm MTD Cub Cadet axles is PN-721-0187. The needle bearings is PN-741-0363. The axle housing gaskets is PN-721-3014. Rear cover gasket is PN-721-3015. For the 1" axles, the OEM part numbers for the oil seals is 921-0187, and for the bearings, it's 941-0363.
The splines on the 7-¼" Chrysler axles are much coarse (but still considered as "fine spline") and stronger than any fine spline Cub Cadet axle. Therefore, when used in a highly modified garden pulling tractor, sometimes the splines in the [Cub Cadet] side (axle) gears will strip out. The side gears from a 7-¼" Chrysler carrier can be installed in a bolt-together fine spline MTD Cub Cadet carrier. The side gears and axles from a 7-¼" Chrysler rear end will fit in a bolt-together fine spline carrier, and the Chrysler axles can be used, but the cavities in the carrier where the side gears rest will need to be machined (enlarged) to 1.501" so the side gears from the Chrysler will fit.
I believe that ALL fine spline axle/carrier tractors have external brakes. To install this type of carrier and axles in an internal brake transaxle, just knock out the wheel studs from the axles, remove the brake discs and reinstall the studs. You may need to swap out the ring gear, too.
A Dana 30 carrier and axles out of John Deere models 140 above serial number 63,905, and all JD models 300, 312, 314, 316 and 317 will work in a Cub Cadet transaxle. Contact tuffy_puller@yahoo.com or 72buick@charter.net. They can tell you all about how to get a Dana 30 carrier and axles to fit in a Cub Cadet transaxle.
Information about Using a Chrysler, Dodge or Plymouth Differential Carrier and Axles in a Cub Cadet Transaxle - Top of page
The 7-¼" Chrysler carrier and axles are super strong.
I think there's no way they will break in a highly modified garden pulling
tractor.
This type of rear end was introduced in 1960. It has a 7-¼" ring gear. It has 9 bolts on the cover and a filler plug. It was a low performance differential unit that came in all cars with a slant 6 and some cars with a 318 cid engine. Casting numbers are # 2070051, 3507881 and 3723675. It came in any Chrysler, Dodge or Plymouth car from 1960 to the mid 70's such as the Aspen, Dart, Diplomat, Duster, LeBaron, Mirada, Valiant and Volaré. They were also used in the mid 80's in the down-sized Chrysler Cordoba, New Yorker, 5th Avenue and the Dodge Dakota trucks with a 4-cylinder engine. They're still manufactured today.
The newer (1978 +/- and newer) have changed the casting. Some are quite a bit wider and won't fit into the Cub Cadet housing. Some have the side gears offset from the centerline and the bearing cups are odd looking. If installed in a Cub Cadet transaxle, one axle will be longer than the other. One axle will need to be shorter than the other so they'll project out of the axle housings the same length. The late '60's Dart, Valiants and early '70's Demons works best. They're the ones with no ribs. The ones with the tall ribs, the knocked off ribs are the junkers.
The rear end that's needed for use in a Cub Cadet transaxle are ones with a 2.7:1 or lower ring and pinion gear ratio (2.76, 2.93, 3.23 and 3.55). Ones with a 2.22:1 or 2.4:1 ratio won't work because of ring gear flange offset location. The ratio can be found stamped into a small metal tag that's attached to one of the rear cover bolts. After founding the right rear end, the only the parts you'll need are the carrier with all spider gears intact and in good condition, the Timken roller bearings and races, and at least 15" of each axle (when measured from the spline end). The ring and pinion gears aren't needed.
How to Machine and Install the Chrysler Carrier and Axles in a Cub Cadet Transaxle -
The process to install a Chrysler-made automotive differential unit in a Cub Cadet transaxle housing is fairly simple. It can become time consuming fitting all the parts and getting everything shimmed and clearances set. And as always, for trouble-free service, take your time when machining any rear end for use in a Cub Cadet. Measure the parts/clearances with extreme accuracy before final installation.
Machine the Differential Carrier for Proper Fit: (Updated 12/23/08)
- The only parts that's needed out of the Chrysler rear end assembly is the carrier, both axles (with the flanges), side bearings and races. Discard everything else.
-
Remove
the Cub Cadet carrier and axles. Save the ring gear off the carrier because
it'll need to be installed on the automotive carrier. The stock Cub ring
gear is removed by drilling out the rivets. To remove the rivets, grind the
end off each rivet, then use a 1/4" roll pin punch and medium size hammer
to drive out the rivets, or drill the remaining rivets out with a 5/16" drill
bit. Removing the ring gear from the automotive carrier is the same process.
-
The Cub ring gear can then be bolted to the automotive carrier with 5/16"
diameter fine thread grade 8 steel bolts with grade 8 nuts and split lock
washers.
Loctite® Threadlocker Blue 242® is optional. Use
bolts that's long enough where the shank (unthreaded part) makes full contact
with the ring gear and carrier. There should be no problem of lining up the
ring gear on the carrier, meaning the carrier shouldn't need to be machined.
Just clean the parts, install the bolts and torque the nuts to 35 ft. lb.
But if the inside diameter of
the Cub Cadet ring gear is larger than the shoulder on the Chrysler carrier,
when installing the gear, a precision machined spacer is required for the
gear to be perfectly centered on the carrier. A machined spacer can be purchased
from Zack Kerber at
http://www.zkbrmachine.com.
-
Save the bearings from the automotive carrier and races from the rear end
housing.
The
inside of the [3 bolt] Cub Cadet bearing retainers will need to be machined
to accept the larger automotive bearing races. Also, the Chrysler carrier
is .100" wider than the Cub Cadet one. So either bore .050" deeper into each
retainer so the width of the carrier will have proper fit, or narrow the
Chrysler carrier .050" on each side. This is performed in a metal lathe (with
a self-centering 3-jaw chuck). Or just order a set of CNC machined steel
bearing cups (retainers) from Lakota
Racing or Midwest Super Cub,
because the OEM cast iron bearing retainers may break if not reinforced with
a steel cap. And when using the stock Cub Cadet shims, the carrier can be
moved side to side to reach the desired lash between the ring and pinion
gears. It's best to set the lash between .006" to .008".
Machine the Axles for Proper Fit:
- Set the Cub axles aside. Nothing is to be used off of them.
- On the automotive axles, measure from the splined end out approximately 14" and cut each axle off. Cut the wheel hub flange from each axle also. (The automotive flanges have the same bolt pattern as the Cub Cadet axle flanges.)
-
With the splined end of the axle
in the chuck of a metal lathe (with a self-centering 3-jaw chuck), turn the
entire diameter down to 1.000" and use the original bronze bushings or needle
bearings in the Cub axle housings. Unless they're worn or damaged, there's
no need to do anything to the OEM bushings or bearings in the housings. But
do install new oil seals. The oil seal size is 1" i.d. x 1-1/2" o.d. x 3/8"
thick. The oil seals are part # CR 9878 and National # 4712224. They're the
same size seal that most garden tiller tine shafts use and the 5hp V50, 6hp
V60 and 7hp V70 Tecumseh vertical shaft engines use on the PTO end of the
crankshaft. But if you choose to machine the axles down to 1.125" (1-1/8")
in diameter instead, then install either a 1.128" i.d. x 1" long bronze bushing
or a Torrington roller bearing # B-1816 or equivalent (for a 1-1/8" shaft)
and the oil seal is a National # CR11734 or equivalent (for a 1-1/8" shaft)
in the axle housings. It doesn't matter which brand of bushings, bearings
or oil seals are used, just as long as they're of high quality and the correct
size. NOTE: The bronze bushings will need to be removed and axle housings
will need to be bored to accept the over-sized needle bearings. To do this,
you'll need to first measure the outside diameter of the needle bearing housing
and then bore the axle housings .003" smaller for a press fit.
-
The Chrysler axles can have either
an E-clip or a [1" or 1-1/8" i.d.] locking collar (like for the Pinto axles
further down in this web page) to retain them in the carrier. If an E-clip
is used, in the lathe, flip the axle end for end, and cut a .025" wide snap
ring groove in the splined area .250" from the end.
-
Before
welding the axles to the flanges, the axles will need to be pressed in the
flanges. In the lathe, machine the ends of the axles (opposite the splines)
.003" larger than the hole in the flanges, or bore a .003" smaller hole in
the flanges. However it's done, just make sure it'll be a press-fit.
Fabricate two new flanges from scratch. For precision, the five holes
in the flanges (and wheel spacers) or the boring process for the center of
the automotive flanges should be performed in an indexing fixture, super
spacer or rotary table with a self-centering 3-jaw chuck that's fastened
on the table of a vertical milling machine.
- Using a hydraulic press, press the axles into the flanges.
- In the lathe, true up the flange(s) with a dial indicator for zero run-out. Weld the flange(s) thoroughly on each side for strength. FYI - Use a wire feed welder with mild steel wire to weld the flanges to the axles.
- Allow the axles to slowly air-cool. Cooling them too quickly could cause the weld area to crystallize and become brittle.
- Clean and sand smooth the area where the bearing and oil seal will make contact on the axle to insure a smooth bearing surface and leak-proof seal.
Advertisement:
If you need heavy duty transaxle parts such as custom gear sets,
Chrysler carrier and axles, aluminum transaxle cases and etc. for your Cub
Cadet, contact:
|
Information about Using a Pinto Carrier and Axles in a Cub Cadet Transaxle -
This particular carrier and axles are actually easier to install
than the Chrysler unit because less machining is required. And they're just
as strong. When machined and installed correctly, they'll hold up with no
problems when used with a 50+ c.i. or a highly modified V-twin engine.
The 1961-'64 Ford Comet, Falcon and Mustang with a 6 cylinder engine, and the 1971-'80 Ford Pinto, Mustang II and Mercury Bobcat carrier and axles will work, as long as it's of the integral differential type rear axle, splines are smaller in diameter than the length of the entire axle, splines on are smaller in diameter than the entire length of the axles, 6-3/4" ring gear design, 8 bolts on the cover and the car originally came with a 4 cylinder engine. And it's not the later model full size "Mustang," but rather the smaller "Mustang II." Also, some Mustang II's came out with an 8" ring gear rear end with a removable differential carrier and welded-on cover, which would be more difficult to install because both the carrier and axles are bigger.
FYI: An 8" Ford carrier and axles will also fit in a Cub Cadet transaxle, but a lot of machining is required. Ask Chuck or Kevin Vogel for details.
The below was written on 01/19/02 by Jim Williams (jrwilliams@go-concepts.com (Jim Williams)) This is his experience with a Pinto rear end.
| Hi folks. As for the year of the Pinto rear end, it was already out of
the car and they thought it was a '76? The axles were 1-1/8 inch at the splines.
To install the ring gear I had to machine the long end of the carrier for
the ring gear to fit. The Pinto ring gear faced the other direction on the
short end of the carrier. I had to do some clean up machining on the ring
gear on the mating surface's to get a machine fit, the bolt holes matched
and I used grade 8 cap bolts, I choose to use allen head bolts and self locking
nuts.
I had to put the carrier and ring gear in unbolted as the carrier is longer and they would not fit inside bolted together I used the Pinto bearing for two reasons, 1- they are bigger than the Cub's and 2- the carrier housing was not thick enough where the bearing fit to turn down to fit the Cub bearings. We turned the inside of the bearing cups so we could get the Pinto bearings in plus I had to make the bearing cup on the long end of the carrier shorter as there was not enough meat on the carrier to set the bearing closer to the ring gear. Also machined the cup deeper, on the long end and due to the deeper bearings they are inside of the hole in the transsexual so the cup is stronger there due to the position of the cup. Had to use extra shims to get the right gear lash. I also made a cup plate of steel and bolted it on the outside of the short end of carrier cup to keep the bearing cup from breaking under stress. I also made the hole bigger in the axle housing as the axles were bigger and welded plates to the housings and installed wheel seals. I used a self aligning bearing plate with locking screw's instead of axle bushings and I made a small flat spot on the axles so as to lock the bearing plate to the axle. The bearing plates have grease fittings. I am well pleased with my setup and the tractor at 1150 lbs. rolls with very little effort due to the bearings on the axles. The axle flange's are Cubs and I cut the flange's off and machine a hole in the center and machined a shoulder on the axle so as to be able to weld the flange on both sides and also true up the flange's. I installed some wheel studs in the flange's instead of the Cub axle bolts. If anyone have any questions let me know, I didn't think to take any pictures. Hope this helps.
Information about which model of the Pinto rear end is best to use in the IH Cub Cadet transaxle. (Created 11/14/01)
I did not machine the Pinto differential case to make it shorter. It seemed to me that this would make the bearing surface area about 1/8" thinner due to the fact that the farther you go towards the ring gear the larger the hole becomes. I machined the bearing cup .900" on the long end of the differential, to make the bearing race go farther back into the cup. See photo #1. This made the area on the bearing cup that keeps the bearing from pushing out very thin. I then used a 3/8" thickness steel plate over the flange to give it support. See photo #2. This cup is on the opposite side of the ring gear, so there should not be much pressure pushing it out. When shimming the backlash, I had to remove all of the shims from the bearing cup on the ring gear side. I didn't use a dial indicator to check the backlash, but I think it will be okay. If I decide to move the ring gear closer to the pinion, I would have to add a shim behind the differential bearing or machine the flange on the bearing cup. By not shortening the differential, you must put the differential and ring gear in separate and bolt it together inside the rear end.
Sincerely,
Prices are plus shipping. Contact: Todd O'Neill of Shelbyville, IN, USA | E-mail: oneills@svs.net (Posted 11/18/01) |
This was originally written
by Todd O'Neill. He had some problems installing a Ford Pinto rear end. Through
his investigation, he have found the following:
Remember - Ford made two (2) different
size axles for the Pinto rear ends. Some have a spline o.d. of .982" and
some have an o.d. of ± 1.045". If you have the smaller axles, you need
to only turn them down to 1.000" and use the original bearings or bushings
in the Cub axle housings. There's no need to do anything to the OEM bronze
bushing or needle bearing on the housings. Just leave them alone but do install
new oil seals. But if you have the larger axles, they'll need to be machined
down to 1.125" (like the Chrysler axles), and then in the end of each axle
housing, use either a 1.128" i.d. x 1" long bronze bushing or a Torrington
bearing # B-1816 or equivalent (for a 1.125" diameter shaft) and the oil
seal for the axle housing is a National # CR11734 or equivalent (for a 1.125"
diameter shaft). It doesn't matter which brand of bushings, bearings or oil
seals are used, just as long as they're the right size.
NOTE: If you don't want to use the original bronze bushings, and if you wish to install needle bearings for less friction, you will need to remove the bronze bushings and the axle housings will need to be bored to accept the needle bearings. To do this, you'll need to measure the outside diameter of the needle bearing housing and then bore the axle housings .003" smaller for a press fit. Or, look for another set of axle housings off a later model Cub Cadet with the [1" i.d.] needle bearings already installed.
How to Machine and Install a Pinto Differential Carrier and Axles in a Cub Cadet Transaxle -
As always, for trouble-free service, take your time when machining any rear end for use in a Cub Cadet. Measure the parts/clearances with extreme accuracy before final installation.
Machine the Carrier for Proper Fit:
- The only parts that's needed out of the Pinto rear end assembly is the carrier and both axles. Discard everything else.
-
The
Cub Cadet ring gear fastens on the opposite side of the flange where the
Pinto ring gear originally went. Don't use the original Pinto ring gear
bolt holes in the flange to fasten the Cub Cadet ring gear to. They're too
big and they don't line up properly. Also, the ring gear could slip and/or
break when under severe pressure if the Pinto's ring gear holes are used.
Instead, align the ring gear on the flange so the holes are halfway between
the Pinto bolt holes, and clamp the ring gear on the flange. Now drill new
5/16" holes into the flange (it's just soft metal) through the ring gear
holes for perfect alignment.
Use
5/16" diameter grade 8 or stainless steel fine thread bolts with a 3/4" shoulder,
split lock washers and grade 8 nuts to secure the ring gear to the flange.
Torque the bolts to 35 ft. lb. This may seem kind of tight for 5/16" bolts,
but they must be this tight to prevent the ring gear from slipping and possibly
breaking.
- The Pinto carrier's ring gear flange is too large for the inside of the Cub Cadet ring gear to fit so the outer edge will have to be turned down to exactly 5.705" for a correct fit of the Cub Cadet ring gear. Don't machine it any smaller, or the ring gear will be too loose and not turn true on the carrier.
- The original Cub Cadet side bearings will fit perfectly on the Pinto carrier with no machining.
- The overall width of the Pinto carrier must be narrowed to 3-15/16" (3.9375") in order to fit inside the Cub Cadet housing. Machine only the long end of the Pinto carrier. Use the Cub Cadet carrier as you will need it to take some measurements for the Pinto carrier.
- Install the Pinto carrier (with the Cub Cadet ring gear) in the Cub Cadet housing. You might need to use more or less shims depending on the amount of machining.
Machine the Axles for Proper Fit:
- From the splined end to about the middle of the axle, cut off each Pinto axle to 12-1/2" long. Discard the rest of the axle/hub. You can make them longer if you want your tires to set out farther. NOTE: The splined part of the Pinto axles are small in diameter. The rest of the axle is larger in diameter.
-
In the lathe, machine the larger diameter portion of each Pinto axle down
to 1" in diameter. Be sure to clean and sand smooth (polish) the area where
the bearing and seal will ride on the axle to insure a smooth bearing surface
and good seal.
The oil seals are part # CR 9878 and National # 4712224. They're
the same seal that most garden tiller tine shafts use and the 5hp through
7hp Tecumseh vertical shaft engines use on the PTO end. The size is 1-1/2"
o.d. x 1" i.d. x 3/8" thick. NOTE: The splines on the end of the axles are
either .982" (23 spline axle) or 1.045" (25 spline axle). The axle then steps
up to over 1.125" the rest of the axle length. Basically, you will not turn
the spline but only the area between the spline and the wheel mounting flange.
-
Fabricate
two new wheel flanges, or in the lathe (with a self-centering 3-jaw chuck),
machine the weld from the Cub Cadet axles next to the wheel flange and then
press the flanges onto the Pinto axles. True up each hub (in the lathe with
a 3-jaw chuck), then weld them onto the axles. For strength and durability,
weld each side of the hub. Discard the Cub Cadet axles, or keep them for
future use in a stock tractor. FYI - we've always used mild steel wire
welder to weld the wheel flanges to the axles. I weld them on both sides
of each flange and never had one break loose.
-
Now,
you need a couple of steel "locking shaft collars" to retain the axles in
the rear end. These collars measure 1" i.d. x 1-5/8" o.d. x 5/8" in thickness
and they have an Allen set screw.
- Drill a small hole in each axle housing exactly 1-1/2" from the end. These holes will allow access to the set screw in the collars. Cut threads in the holes for either a short bolt or a NPT threaded pipe plug. Leave the original Cub Cadet bronze bushings or needle bearings and oil seals intact, or install new seals to prevent oil leakage.
- Fasten the axle housings onto the transaxle case with a couple of bolts and then slide the Pinto axles in until they bottom out against the pinion shaft.
- Place a punch mark on each axle through the drilled holes. This is to locate the set screw in the locking collars.
- Remove the axles, and then drill a shallow hole into each axle where the punch mark were made. This shallow hole is for the set screw in the collars to tighten into, and to keep the collars from slipping on the axles.
- Remove the housings from the transaxle case then slide the Pinto axles in along with the locking collar on each axle.
- Fasten the housings onto the transaxle case, locate the set screw in each collar through the drilled holes and then tighten them securely into the shallow hole that was drilled in the axles.
- After tightening the set screws on the axles, plug the holes in the housings with either a short bolt or a NPT threaded pipe plug. There's no need to install a grease fitting in the holes because the oil in the transaxle will provide adequate lubrication for the bushings or bearings.
- See the detailed drawing below for how the axles are held in place.
Remember, when installing an automotive rear end in a Cub Cadet, it's important to install a steel (3-bolt) flange on the side of the transaxle that's closest to the ring gear (the right side, as viewed when sitting on the tractor). The reason for this is because under pulling stress, the pinion gear pushes against the ring gear. And the only thing keeping them together is the original 3-bolt cast iron flange, which could break. Or better yet, install 2 steel machined flanges, one for each side. Midwest Super Cub sells machined flanges for the Chrysler carrier. When using a Pinto carrier, install an 1/8" thickness steel plate over the original flange that's closest to the ring gear.
How to Install New Rear Axle Bushings or Needle Bearings and Oil Seals in a Cub Cadet -
The following is how to install new rear axle bushings
and oil seals in the "Original" Cub Cadet. (They're different than later
model Cub Cadets.)
|
The following is how to install new rear axle bushings or needle bearings
and oil seals in a later model IH Cub Cadet. The same applies to all hydrostatic
and clutch drive models.
|
Part 3 - What type of oil should be used in the Cub Cadet transaxle? Top of page
For the IH and MTD Cub Cadet
transaxles, the official Cub Cadet repair manual says the recommended oil
to use is Hy-Tran B-6, Hy-Tran PLUS (MS-1207), Hy-Tran ULTRA or equivalent.
"Equivalent" means that it's safe to use any quality, name-brand hydraulic
oil that meets or exceeds CASE/IH requirements. These oils can be used in
both the hydrostatic and gear drive transaxles. Most Farm and Home stores
should have Hy-Tran in stock. When or if you do find Hy-Tran, look on the
back label of the IH/Case hydraulic oil containers. It should say something
about Hy-Tran. And to prevent the wear of gears in hydraulic pumps and motors,
always use hydraulic oil in a hydraulic system. Fill it where there's a fill
and oil level check plug, not any place else.
If Hy-Tran isn't available locally, then it's safe to use virtually any type of hydraulic oil, power steering fluid, hydraulic jack oil (which are nothing but ordinary hydraulic oil), Dexron® III Mercon® automotive automatic transmission fluid (ATF) or a high quality universal heavy duty hydraulic and transmission fluid in a Cub Cadet or other makes and models of the gear drive, hydrostatic drive transaxles or hydraulic systems. Dexron® III Mercon® is a very durable and high quality hydraulic oil with a red dye and scent added to determine it from other oils when it leaks from equipment. It also has a rust inhibitor and it helps keep the inside of a transaxle clean. It's available at most auto parts stores and in the automotive isle at most major department stores.
For pulling competition only, hydraulic oil, automatic transmission fluid or Hy-Tran should be used in the gear drive transaxles. These lightweight oils provides adequate lubrication for all moving parts, with no problems. And there's no need to worry about the gears, bearings and other internal parts wearing prematurely because of the low viscosity (light-weight or thin) oil. The parts are made of extremely hardened material. Synthetic oils will allow the internal moving parts to operate much cooler. And being gear drive transaxles don't have a hydraulic pump like the hydrostatic units do, the oil will never get hot. The above mentioned oils protect automatic transmission parts, don't they? And auto transmissions work a lot harder and operate for longer periods of time than any garden tractor transaxle ever will. Personally, we've always used Dexron® III Mercon in our gear drive transaxles since we've started pulling, and we've never had any problems.
Note: Use caution when using motor oil in a garden tractor transmission or transaxle. Some motor oils doesn't have rust inhibitors and the internal parts in the transaxle will rust just above the oil line when stored in a cool, damp environment. The parts will rust so bad, they will look like they've been sitting out in the rain.
For pulling competition, don't use high viscosity (such as SAE 90 weight) gear oil when filling the Cub Cadet, Peerless, Wheel Horse or any other gear drive transaxle. This also applies to automotive manual transmissions and rear ends used in mini-rod pulling vehicles. Use the oils that's mentioned in the above paragraph. Because gear oil is thick and heavy and when used with pulling competition, it will slow down the gears slightly and rob the engine of valuable horsepower. And if the transaxle has an internal brake (Cub Cadet), the tractor won't stop as well. And again, there's no need to worry about the gears, bearings and other internal parts wearing prematurely because of the low viscosity (light-weight or thin) oil. The parts are made of extremely hardened material. By the way - the only place that sells gears for a Peerless transaxle is a Tecumseh Engine dealer. And there are no special pulling gears made for any Peerless transaxle. The only alternative is to change the diameter of the pulleys (and length of belt) on the engine and transaxle to increase or decrease the ground speed of the tractor.
It takes 3-1/2 quarts of oil to fill a Cub Cadet gear drive transaxle. To fill a Cub Cadet transaxle, there's an 1/2" NPT tapered-thread plug on the rear cover of the transaxle. Use the extension of a 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the plug. Fill until the oil starts to run out of the hole. And then reinstall the plug. For pulling competition, less oil can be used in the transaxle. To do this, don't fill the transaxle full of oil (to the full level hole). Instead, tap another fill hole 2" (on the rear cover) below the original one and fill it to there. The lower driven gears and ring gear will still pick up plenty of oil and sling it on the upper moving gears and bearings, keeping them well lubricated. A grease fitting may need to be tapped into each axle housing end to help keep the axles lubricated as well.
What makes most hydrostatic drive
and driven parts (gears) to wear prematurely isn't because the wrong type
of oil was used, it's extreme
heat. Whenever petroleum
oil gets hot, it loses it's "thickness" or viscosity and turns thin. The
hotter it gets, the thinner it gets. This is called viscosity thermal breakdown.
Oil is supposed to keep all moving parts separated. But when oil gets hot,
it gets thin, and this will cause the moving parts (gears and such) to make
contact with each other (metal to metal contact) causing them to wear
excessively. Extremely hot oil will cause the rubber seals to harden and
crack, too. No petroleum oil, even Hy-Tran, is immune from thermal viscosity
breakdown. Only full synthetic oil is 100% immune from thermal viscosity
breakdown. So remember, it's very important to change the oil, keep the cooling
fins that's on the hydrostatic pump/motor clean, make sure the fan that blows
air over the hydrostatic pump/motor is in good condition, and do routine
maintenance at least once a year before using the tractor, and the hydrostatic
unit will probably last forever. By the way - it takes approximately 7 quarts
to fill the hydrostatic drive transaxle and filter.
A non-synthetic oil will provide superior lubrication as long as you keep the cooling fins and hydrostatic drive areas clean and free of grass and debris. Make sure the fan on the driveshaft is in good condition, too. Clean the fins and hydrostatic drive areas the beginning of every year and the hydrostatic drive system should last a lifetime. Return to top of page. È
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