Introduction to the World of Garden Tractor Pulling!
What is Tractor Pulling?
Tractor pulling competition
is when a special-built weighted pulling vehicle or tractor drags a mechanical
weight transfer machine, which is more commonly known as a
"sled," on a dirt (clay) track of a specific distance,
which is usually a maximum of 300 feet in length. As the vehicle pulls (or
drags) this sled down the track, ballast (weights) that's in a box which
is positioned at the rear of the sled is automatically transferred forward
on the frame of the sled. This transfer of weight, or ever increasing of
weight, creates friction between the skid pan (that's part of the front of
the sled) and the ground, and that in turn makes the sled harder to pull,
eventually stopping the vehicle. The winner is determined by not how fast
a pulling vehicle goes down the track, but who drags the sled the farthest.
In other words, it's not a race, it's a pulling event. Check out this site,
too:
Tractor
Pulling History.
Garden tractor pulling can be a fun and safe sport for adults and kids alike. If done fairly, garden tractor pulling helps build good character and sportsmanship in kids, as well as in adults. Sports has always been considered a healthy outlet for kids. A chance for young people to learn how to win or rather lose. But most importantly, how to play by the rules, which help keep them out of trouble at home and with the law. Kids also need protection and proper parental guidance so they can live a happy and healthy adulthood. I think that this is a good sport for kids of all ages (as long as they can safely operate a tractor). Sons, daughters, nieces, nephews and any other kid who has gotten bored and are running the streets too much. If you have the means to spend some money to help kids go down the right path and have good clean fun, then garden tractor pulling is for you.
The sport of pulling can be
a fun and exciting family activity. Garden tractor pulling can be very affordable
and a lot of fun for the entire family and/or with friends. Just an average
pickup truck and a small trailer is all that's required to haul the garden
tractors to and from the pulls. Garden tractor pulling also helps to bring
families and friends closer together. You and your family and/or friends
get to travel to other towns (sometimes out of state), see the beautiful
countryside and interesting sights along the way while on the road, meet
interesting people, have a chance to be with other pullers who share your
interests and make new friends, dine at nice restaurants, even stay at a
motel before or after a pull! I think that traveling to and from a pull should
be half the fun. While at a pull site, if it's at a county fair, there's
usually other activities also. When the pull is over, the kids can go on
the carnival rides. They're usually free, because most of the time there's
free admission [for pullers and helpers] to the fair! And please remember,
ALWAYS drive careful, get plenty of rest before starting a long trip so you'll
be alert for unexpected events while on the road, and definitely fasten your
seat belts!
Garden tractor pulling is a sport, just like any other sport. Some people like to go fishing. Some play golf at a country club. Others do tractor (or truck) pulling. These activities are all considered sports, which is supposed to be fun and relaxing. If a tractor does well at a pull, the prize money usually isn't that great. In fact, you'd be lucky to make gas money. But it's fun to compete, test your mechanical skills on the tractor and driving skills on the track. It's also a good excuse to get your mind off your daily job and routine, and it's a good reason to get away from home for a while, like a short vacation. And if you think about it, it's mental therapy. It's an "escape" to maintain yours and your family's or friend's sanity.
If you're
looking for a quality garden tractor
to build up and do some serious pulling with, then what you need is a beltless,
non-hydrostatic drive, clutch-driven,
manual shift Cub Cadet that
was built by International Harvester and the
early ones built by MTD.
This includes the narrow frame models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106,
122, 124 and 126. The wide frame models with a solid mounted engine and rear
solid driveshaft coupler are 86, 108 and 128. Wide frame models with an ISO
(rubber) mounted engine and rear flexible driveshaft coupler are 800, 1000
and 1200. All IH-built Cub Cadets come from the factory with a cast iron
K-series Kohler engine. And almost
every late model of the spread frame Cub Cadet that's made by either IH or
MTD are hydrostatically driven, with an exception of models 582, 1050, 1535,
1606 and 1806 which are all clutch driven with a very durable and light-weight
MTD-built aluminum case transaxle. Any hydrostatically driven IH or MTD Cub
Cadet garden tractor can be easily converted to a clutch drive using the
transaxle and clutch/driveshaft components out of a clutch drive "parts"
tractor, as long as if it's a narrow frame, wide frame or spread frame model.
The transaxles are basically the same, rather it's an internal or external
brake. It's the clutch/driveshaft components must match the frame of the
donor tractor to be converted.
For example: To convert an IH Cub Cadet wide frame model 109, 128, 129, 149, 1250, 1450 or 1650 into a clutch/gear drive, the complete clutch assembly with the throw-out bearing release lever and cross bracket, and transaxle from an IH Cub Cadet model 86, 108, 128, 800, 1000 or 1200 will be needed. The brake components will also be needed from these tractors.
Unlike the IH and early MTD Cub Cadets, most garden tractors that's built
nowadays won't be in use 30-40 years from now. They're just not built that
good nowadays. This is a well-known and proven fact. If you do have a chance
to restore an old Cub Cadet so it's fully operational, you'd probably fall
in love with it. Because I think that any new garden tractor that's build
nowadays can't match the durability and capabilities of the older Cub Cadets.
If you do find an older Cub Cadet that's worth the money, and despite the
condition it's in, just remember that it's worth repairing. It'll be like
restoring an old Chevrolet. 
The Differences Between the Older Kohler K-series and the Newer Kohler Magnum Engines -
The Magnum engines replaced the K-series in later years. The Magnum engines are basically the same engine as the K-series. The main differences are, besides the sheet metal that covers the block, the Magnum has solid state electronic ignition, a fixed main jet (Walbro) carburetor and the starter fastens to the bearing plate instead of the engine block. And there are no provisions for using ignition points. Most of the external and all the internal parts are interchangeable, and most aftermarket (high-performance) parts are interchangeable with either engine.
If you need an engine, look in my advertisement web site or you can place a want ad in the same site. Or, call or visit your local small engine, lawnmower or tractor sales/repair shops. Sometimes they have old Cub Cadets sitting around that people sell or trade in for a new garden tractor. To identify certain models of IH Cub Cadets, check out Jonathan Luckey’s web site at http://www.geocities.com/jluckeycub.
And if you're looking for some yellow paint to paint your Cub Cadet with, try your local farm and home supply store. They usually have International Harvester Yellow. It closely matches the color of Cub Cadet yellow.
Why Aluminum Block Engines (except V-Twins) Don't Work Well for Pulling Competition -
An aluminum engine block will "bend and twist" or flex a few thousands of an inch when hot and under pulling stress. Therefore, they'll lose valuable compression because the valves become unseated and the piston rings lose partial contact against the cylinder wall. Not to mention the main bearings are also put into a bind under the stress of pulling.
Cast iron engine blocks on the other hand hold their shape a lot better when hot and under stress. Aluminum engines work best for conditions that doesn't place them in a lot of stress. Such as ATVs, racing go-karts, racing lawn mowers, etc. Because there's fresh air moving over the engine, keeping the metal cool, and the block isn't being strained by the vehicle pulling a heavy load. This is why the cast iron block Kohler engines work best for competitive pulling. I think that Kohler is the best engine for pulling. They're the "Chevrolet" of garden tractor pulling engines. Because cast iron is able to "hold its shape," handle high operating temperatures, severe stress, high compression and high rpms. This is why most riding mowers, lawn tractors and lawn & garden tractors have aluminum block engines. And most garden tractors have a cast iron engine block.
In addition, on the cast iron block single cylinder Briggs & Stratton and Tecumseh engines, the valve stems are parallel to the cylinder. This means that the valve heads set further away from the piston. And in the cast iron block single cylinder Kohler engines, the valve heads set closer to the piston (valve stems are angled). Therefore, Kohler are capable of producing more compression, and they can flow the air better in and out of the combustion chamber at high rpms.
If you don't want to embarrass yourself in front of the spectators, then don't waste your time, money and materials on something less than a true-to-it's-name garden tractor. Stamped steel frame lawn tractors (MTD, Murray, etc.) simply cannot compete against the power and torque or muscle of a true garden tractor. If you want to win or at least do well at the pulls and look good doing it, then get yourself a clutch-drive Cub Cadet, and use the stamped steel frame lawn tractors to mow your lawn with. Or adapt the lawn tractor sheet metal (hood, grill, fenders, steering support column, etc.) onto a Cub Cadet chassis.
To be competitive in garden tractor pulling, what you need is a garden tractor that has an automotive-type frame, horizontal engine, a cast iron transaxle and 12" diameter, 5-lug rear wheels. It can be belt drive, too. Look for a good-size Wheel Horse or a Sears Suburban. They're the most popular and least expensive to build up for pulling in a stock class. Fact is, the drive belt on some garden tractors robs the engine of power. The Cub Cadet on the other hand use a direct drive clutch/driveshaft system, which is much like the ones that's used in automobiles. You get more power to the track with a Cub Cadet. Belt-driven garden tractors, such as Wheel Horse, Sears Suburban, etc., do very well in the stock classes with a limited horsepower engine, but if you want to move up into a more powerful or highly modified class, the Cub Cadet is the only way to go. They've been proven to be the most competitive garden tractor for pulling that's available.
Certain models of John Deere and Massey Ferguson garden tractors have a variable speed control called a "Variator," which is a factory-installed lever positioned on the right of the steering wheel. Most Cub Cadet pullers call this a "cheater stick." When it's pulled back, it slows the tires down to reserve engine power. In pulling, this feature allows the tractor to have plenty of ground speed upon takeoff and go down the track at full speed, and when the weight of the sled comes up on the tractor, and if the engine begins to bog down, the operator can pull back on the lever, slowing down the tires, so the engine will have reserve power to "chug, chug" a little further down the track. It'll be nice if Cub Cadets had this feature too, but it only comes on certain belt-driven garden tractors.
And the reason there's different classes for pulling tractors is because some tractors come with a bigger engine and some weigh more than others. A tractor with a big engine will undoubtedly out-pull a tractor with a small engine. And the same goes for a tractor that weighs more than the others. Therefore, most pulling clubs try to match the engine size and the weight of any particular tractor (with the driver) so they'll be competitive within their class.
One of the most popular bodies to adapt onto an IH Cub Cadet frame is the John Deere. The reason for this is lots of pullers like their John Deere garden pulling tractor so well, but sometimes they can't out-pull a Cub Cadet. So they create a "generic" John Deere. That's when the John Deere body parts are integrated onto a Cub Cadet frame. It has the look and feel of a genuine John Deere, but the pulling components and power of a Cub Cadet. Many pullers do this. But only certain John Deere bodies will "fit" onto a Cub Cadet.
Ever noticed at the pulls, how many true-to-their-name Cub Cadets show up, but very few John Deeres (or is it pronounced "John Deere"? hmmm) are there? With a generic John Deere doing well at the pulls, this puts the Deere name out front. Hence, "Nothing runs like a Deere!" And nothing pulls like a Cub Cadet!
Of course, the body components of other makes and models of popular garden tractors, such as Wheel Horse, etc., can be integrated onto a Cub Cadet frame as well. It just takes some time and effort to figure out how to adapt the parts so it'll look original.
Ever noticed how there's always more IH Cub Cadets at the pulls than any other make of garden tractor? That's because the Cub Cadet is capable of transferring more usable horsepower and torque to the rear tires through a unique direct-drive disc clutch system much like the ones used in automobiles, farm tractors, etc. And, there's more high performance parts readily available for the IH Cub Cadet and Kohler engine than any other make of garden tractor or engine.
Most rules require "a garden tractor frame." Therefore, most pullers prefer to use the later model "wide" and "spread" Cub Cadet frames. They're strongest frames for use with a high horsepower engine. They're more rigid and flex less than the older narrow frames. Frame flex absorbs horsepower and torque, which must be transferred to the ground through the rear tires. The "wide" frame were originally manufactured to make room for the small gear starter and large flywheel on the 10hp-16hp single cylinder Kohler engine. And the "spread" frame were originally manufactured for a twin cylinder engine, but a single cylinder Kohler engine can be easily installed with no adjustments.
The manufacturer didn't exactly design the Cub Cadet (or virtually any garden tractor) to be fitted with a powerful engine, being weighted down, using 26-12.00x12 cut tread tires and pulling several thousand pounds of stubborn weight with. Therefore, it's necessary to "beef up" the engine, drivetrain, transaxle and chassis to be truly competitive and to keep parts from breaking. If you're wanting to win, you might as well build it to win!
Personally, I think it's best to convert a Cub Cadet that's near to being a "piece of junk" into a pulling tractor. Because it'll be a shame to convert a nice looking, fully functioning and useful mowing/utility Cub Cadet into a pulling tractor. Besides, for it to be a truly competitive, it'll have to be completely disassembled, and rebuilt/built-up from scratch. So why not do it with something that will have to be totally rebuilt?
For new high performance parts and used Cub Cadet tractors/engines, check out these Garden Pulling Tractor/Engine Builders, Parts and Services or Hot Selling Garden Pulling Tractor Parts. Click HERE for information on IH Cub Cadet manufacturer serial numbers and dates built.
By the way - know what out-pulls a Cub Cadet? Another Cub Cadet! Of course,
other makes and models of garden tractors are competitive, too.
If you do decide to build a pulling tractor, remember - there's sanctioning rules with every pulling club or association regarding how a pulling tractor should be built or set up. Not all clubs use the same rules and specifications. These rules varies from one club to another. You'll need to contact the person in charge of the club you plan to pull with and acquire a copy of their up-to-date rules and ask them questions before you start to build a tractor. When you're at the pulls, look the other pulling tractors over and ask the pullers questions regarding how to build a durable and competitive tractor.
Why hydrostatic drives don't work well for pulling competition -
Basically put, hydrostatic drive garden tractors lose too much power transfer through the hydraulic pump. The hydrostatic pump on most garden tractors can't produce enough pressure to overcome the force needed to drive the hydrostatic motor needed in pulling competition. Manufacturers install hydrostatic units that is just right for normal conditions (mowing grass, light hauling, etc.). If a person were to install a larger pump (one that produces more pressure) just for pulling, they would definitely need a much larger engine, too. But most pulling rules limit the engine size in any particular class. And, one would probably still have problems. So until someone can come up with something better... the ol' mechanical gears/clutch or belt drive system works best for pulling.
The basic differences between a riding mower, lawn tractor, lawn & garden tractor, and a garden tractor:
- A "riding mower" usually has a small horsepower single cylinder engine which is either on the rear of the frame, with the operator positioned midway. Some may have the engine positioned midway of the frame, with the operator on the rear. And some have the engine toward the front of the frame, with the operator on the rear. They have a stamped steel frame and front axle, 4" diameter wheels on the front, and either 6" or 8" on the rear. They have an aluminum transmission or rubber drive disc connected to a chain that drives the rear axle differential. The mower deck is located midway and has one blade.
- A "lawn tractor" looks somewhat like a true "tractor." They have a small to medium horsepower single cylinder engine. The engine is positioned toward the front of the frame, with the operator on the rear. They have a stamped steel frame and front axle, 6" wheels on the front, and either 8" or 10" on the rear. The rear wheels are fastened to the axles with a keyed sleeve and snap ring or bolt and flat washer. They are either hydrostatically driven or manual shift/belt driven to an aluminum housing transaxle. The mower deck is located midway and have two blades.
- A "lawn and garden tractor" is one step larger than the lawn tractor. They have either a single- or twin-cylinder engine, which is positioned toward the front of the frame, with the operator on the rear. They a heavy stamped steel frame and front axle, 8" wheels on the front, and 12" on the rear. The rear wheels are fastened to the axles with a keyed sleeve and snap ring. They are either hydrostatically driven or manual shift/belt driven to an aluminum housing transaxle, and the mower deck is located midway with two or three blades. These work well for pulling in a stock class.
- A "garden tractor" is heavier built than the lawn and garden tractor. They have either a single- or twin-cylinder [larger horsepower] engine, which is positioned up front, with the operator on the rear. They also have an automotive-type steel rail frame and a cast iron front axle. They're either hydrostatically belt driven or have a manual clutch/gear drive, a cast iron transaxle. They have 8" wheels on the front, and 12" on the rear. The rear wheels are fastened to axle flanges by automotive-style lug bolts or lug nuts. The mower deck is located midway and have two or three blades. These work best for pulling, period. (Except for the hydrostatic drive ones.)
Details On How To Set Up and Put On A Garden Tractor or ATV Pulling Event -
- Acquire a flat or level tract of land with clay soil that has enough space for a minimum 25 feet wide x 300 feet long pulling track and adequate parking area for several dozen vehicles, including some with a trailer. The land should have easy access from the main road or highway with an entrance and exit drives. And there should be a "pit area" that's close to the track for the puller's vehicles, trailers and tractors/ATVs. The spectators should have their own parking area.
- Contact a club or association that has sanctioning rules and regulations for proper operation of the pull.
- Contact an owner of a weight transfer pulling sled. The sled should be designed for and be able to fully stop the particular class(es) and weight(s) of tractors or ATVs that's going to participate in the pull. If it's a pull-back type of sled, you'll need a medium or large tractor to pull it back to the starting line every time.
- Have some way to accurately measure the distance of each pulling vehicle. Either by rope and tape measure, and stakes along each side of the track (this is the old fashioned way, lots of help is required, too) or have a very accurate electronic measuring device (Agri-Tronix) on-board the sled with an easy to read remote monitor that's placed at the announcer's/judge's stand.
- Have a weighing scale close to the track. All pulling vehicles should weigh before each pull, and if required for fairness, after they pull.
- Equipment and crew to properly maintain the pulling track. Equipment includes a large farm-style blade-off tractor for removing loose dirt from the track and filling in tire-spinning, dug-in holes. Equipment also includes a medium or large pull-back tractor for the sled.
- Acquire adequate spectator liability insurance in case someone gets hurt on the property and/or something dislodges from a tractor, hits someone and cause injury or death. This should be a "blanket" type of insurance, to cover all participating pulling tractors or ATVs. K&K Insurance (http://www.kandkinsurance.com/) is one of many insurance companies that will cover garden tractor pulls.
- Ask friends or members of a non-profit organization to help with the operation of the pull.
- Advertise the pull.
And to start out, an ordinary riding mower or lawn & garden tractor can be used for tractor pulling. People do it all the time. Just remember that the sled will need to be lightweight and the tractors will need a low hitch height (below the centerline of the rear axle) to prevent from breaking a transaxle and they'll need wheelie bars for safety.
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Looking for a place to pull your tractor? Then check out this web site: Hot Links for Various Garden Tractor Pulling Clubs and Associations.
Looking for a place to pull your tractor? Then check out this web site: Hot Links for Various Garden Tractor Pulling Clubs and Associations.