As of 2022, A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises is still in business and offering all parts and services listed
in this website.
As of 2022, A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises is still in business and offering all parts and services listed
in this website.
Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website. |
Prices are subject to change without notice. FYI - All aftermarket parts that is offered in this website are of very high quality and come with an unconditional guarantee. As a matter of fact, the aftermarket parts are just as good or better quality than most OEM Kohler parts.
Generating/Charging Stators and Internal Flywheel Charging Magnets |
 High Quality
Inductive Handheld Small Engine Wireless Tachometer. A tachometer is
required in setting the correct RPM (normally 3,200 or 3,600 maximum for
small engines) of an engine to prevent from over-revving and possible damage
to the engine or dangerous flywheel explosion. Works with magneto and
battery-powered ignition systems. Very accurate. For gas/spark ignite engines
only. Works with magneto and battery-powered ignition systems. This handheld
analog tachometer works great for checking/setting the RPM on various small
engines in the shop, and/or for checking/setting the RPM [tech] on stock
governed competition pulling engines. Hold sensor (antenna) close to spark
plug wire for reading. Operates off a self-contained replaceable 9 volt battery.
Has built-in battery voltage check. Reads up to 5,000 RPM on the low scale,
and 15,000 RPM on the high scale.
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 Inductive Small
Engine Tachometer/Hour Meter with Replaceable Battery. A tachometer is
required for monitoring and/or setting the maximum speed of a small engine,
which is normally 3,200 or 3,600 RPM, to prevent over-revving and possible
damage to the engine or dangerous flywheel explosion. Very accurate. Can
be hand-held to temporarily set engine RPM or can be surface-mounted and
secured with two screws to monitor engine RPM at all times. Large 3/8 inch
LCD display. Works with all spark ignition engines by selecting engine type
by programming S1 and S2 buttons. Works with magneto and battery-powered
ignition systems. If tachometer does not turn on automatically as soon
as engine starts, press and hold the two buttons at the same time.
Instructions included. Reads up to 99,999 RPM. Hour meter reads up to 9999:59
hours/minutes. Programmable maintenance hour setting with service icon, a
service reminder when to change oil or other maintenance. Can be manually
reset to Zero hours. Easy installation: Single wire wraps around spark plug
wire and secured with two supplied nylon zip-ties. No wire terminal connections
required. Weatherproof construction. Requires CR2450 battery. Dimensions:
2" wide x 1-3/4" depth x 3/4" height. $25.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. |
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 High Quality
Digital Tachometer/Proximity Sensor Kits. A tachometer is required in
setting the correct engine RPM (normally 3,200 or 3,600 maximum, depending
on type of carburetor) to prevent from over-revving and possible internal
damage or dangerous flywheel explosion. Choice of a
RED or
BLUE numeric display. Will work with
most small engines or multi-cylinder automotive engines, gas or diesel. The
great thing about this type of tachometer is that it needs no setup or
programming. It displays accurate RPM as soon as the engine cranks over to
start. Displays up to 9,999 RPM. Very accurate. Tachometer returns to zero
[0000] when engine is shut down. Can be used for lawn & garden equipment
or competition pulling engines. Designed to be permanently mounted to monitor
engine RPM at all times. Tachometer can be in-dash or panel-mounted. This
precision digital tachometer operates with external power and on the same
principle as my
flywheel- or
crank-trigger ignition systems with a proximity sensor to detect the
target, which can be a small ferrous steel screw or pin, or magnet in a rotating
disc on the crankshaft or on/in flywheel. Operates totally independent of
the ignition system, or can be used with crank trigger ignition with the
same proximity sensor. Sensor is capable of powering this digital tachometer
and crank-trigger ignition module at the same time, with the exception of
using the Dynatek Dyna S or PerTronix Ignitor modules. This tachometer must
be wired separately or wiring can be incorporated with my crank-trigger ignition
system that use a proximity sensor. A sturdy steel or aluminum bracket will
need to be fabricated by customer to mount the sensor in close proximity
of the detector/trigger target. Set air gap/clearance at .010"-.188". Tachometer
works with 8-24 volts DC, proximity sensor works with 6-36 volts DC. Dimensions
for mounting hole for tachometer: 3" wide x 1-17/32" wide. Tachometer measures
1" in depth. Dimensions of proximity sensor: 15/32" diameter x 1-3/8" thread
length. Wiring Instructions: #1 wire on tachometer connects to brown wire
on proximity sensor and ignition switch (12 volt power), #2 wire on tachometer
connects to blue wire on proximity sensor and engine/chassis ground (which
connects to the negative (–) battery post), and #5 wire on tachometer
connects to black wire on (either) proximity sensor. Wires #3 and #4 connects
to nothing. Wiring is the same for the hall effect and inductive proximity
sensors. Some proximity sensors have an LED (Light Emitting Diode) on the
rear of unit. If the proximity sensor is wired incorrectly, the LED will
illuminate within the target.
Click or tap here for YouTube videos to see how well this
tachometer works.
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  Grounding-Type Safety Break-Away / Kill Switch with Pull-Pin.
Use for competition pulling only; mount on rear of tractor. When the pin
pulled, it grounds the ignition coil from producing spark. If using with
a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition systems: Connect
one wire to the chassis ground, and connect the other wire to the
points/condenser wire or to the kill terminal on the solid state ignition
coil/module. If using with a battery-powered ignition system: Connect one
wire to the chassis ground, and connect the other wire to the coil negative
(–) terminal. NOTE: With battery-powered ignition, as soon as pin
is pulled (engine will die), manually shut off ignition switch right away
to prevent possible damage to the ignition coil and electronic ignition module
if equipped with crank trigger ignition. This type of switch does not
disable power to the
electric fuel pump on a pulling tractor. It must be
shut-off manually by the ignition switch or an OFF-ON toggle switch.
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Electric Engine Cooling Fan and Electrical Accessory Switches - Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website. [Top of Page]
Superior Quality, High Velocity 12 Volt Engine Cooling Fan. Use an electric fan to cool a competition garden tractor pulling engine with a steel flywheel. Fan motor is 100% secured and reinforced in plastic fan housing tube to withstand severe engine vibrations, and to prevent motor from loosening and become inoperable due to normal engine vibration when pulling. Modification made by Brian Miller. No need to mount fan housing on rubber grommets; they will serve no purpose whatsoever with this fan or otherwise. Fasten fan housing on a sturdy angle steel support brace with 1/4" bolts, lock washers and wide, flat washers (on plastic mounting supports) in front of engine or behind grille in a Cub Cadet garden tractor aimed at the exhaust area of engine. See photos to the right and below. Draws 2.6 amps, produces 145 CFM. Measures 3" diameter and 5" length. NOTE: Due to normal engine vibrations, it's recommended that the fan not be run while pulling because the brushes inside motor could break. Turn fan on ONLY between pull-offs or when tuning engine or adjusting carburetor. $35.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
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   High Quality
Universal Self-Grounding OFF-ON Switches. Designed for use with
Self-Energizing Magneto Ignition, Solid State Ignition, OEM Solid State
Ignition (SSI) for Tecumseh's Cast Iron Block Engines, or with OEM Kohler
Breakerless Ignition. These can be used on virtually any small engine
installed on lawn and garden equipment, garden tillers, go-karts, chainsaws,
portable log splitters, portable air compressors, portable generators/welders,
portable water pumps, etc. with a magneto or solid state ignition, and a
recoil/rope starter or a push-button switch with an electric starter motor
to crank the engine.
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 High Quality Universal OFF-ON Switches for Battery-Powered
Ignition and Electrical Accessories. Very durable, tough switches. Either
can be used for ignition, lights,
electric fuel
pump, electric PTO clutch, etc. When used for ignition, use with
push button starter switch (listed below). Terminals or wires on switches
listed below makes contact when in the ON position. Can be used on virtually
anything that have a battery-powered ignition or electrical system, such
as: garden tractors, go-karts, pulling tractors, mini-rods, hot-rods, farm
tractors, automobiles, etc. Each can be mounted in dashboard, instrument
panel, engine control panel, etc.
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 High
Quality Universal Push Button Switches. Each can be mounted in pedestal,
dashboard, instrument panel, engine control panel, flywheel shroud, etc.
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 High Quality Universal 3-Position OFF-IGNITION-START Key
Switch for use with Self-Energizing Magneto Ignition, Solid State
Ignition, OEM Solid State Ignition (SSI) for Tecumseh's Cast Iron Block Engines,
or with OEM Kohler Breakerless Ignition. Can be used for various makes
and models of riding mowers, lawn & garden tractors, garden tractors
and various small engine equipment with magneto or solid state ignition.
Identification of 5 blade terminals: B = Battery (+); G = Ground
(terminal is grounded to body of switch); L = Lights (use a separate
OFF-ON switch connected to this terminal to power an electric PTO clutch);
M = Magneto (Ignition); S = Solenoid (small terminal). Key
positions: OFF position makes contact with M+G; IGNITION position makes contact
with B+L; START position makes contact with B+S. Each terminal identified
for correct wiring connections. IMPORTANT: Use with a starter solenoid/relay
to crank the engine to prevent burning out internal contacts in switch. NOTE:
If engine is equipped with an alternator/stator charging system, the center
terminal on the voltage rectifier/regulator connects to the positive (+)
battery post. If using an ammeter/amp gauge, connect the gauge/meter to the
positive (+) battery post, then to the B terminal on the switch. Trace the
wires on your tractor/equipment to see if they match the terminals on this
switch. If they don't match, the plug-in spade connectors/wires can be rearranged
in the plastic connector housing to match the corresponding terminals on
the switch. To do this, use a small flat blade screwdriver to depress the
locking tab/tang so the plug-in connector can be pulled out from the plastic
connector housing. Bend the locking tab/tang up slightly before reinserting
it in the plastic connector so it will be secured in place. Or use #250
slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals
when connecting wires to switch. Requires 5/8" diameter mounting hole.
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 High Quality Universal 3-Position OFF-IGNITION-START Key
Switch. Designed for use with Battery-Powered Points/Condenser Ignition
or Battery-Powered Flywheel/Crank-Trigger Aftermarket Replacement Electronic
Ignition. Can be used for various makes and models of garden tractors,
small engine equipment, mini rod pulling tractors and hot rods with
battery-powered ignition or flywheel/crank trigger ignition. Identification
of 5 blade terminals are: I = Ignition; A = Auxiliary (electrical
accessories, such as lights, electric PTO clutch, etc.); R = Rectifier;
B = Battery (+); S = Solenoid (small terminal). Key positions:
OFF position makes no contact with any of the other terminals; IGNITION position
makes contact with B+I+R+A; START position makes contact with B+I+R+S. Each
terminal identified for correct wiring connections. IMPORTANT: Must be used
with a starter solenoid to crank the engine to prevent burning out internal
contacts in switch. If using an ammeter/amp gauge, connect the gauge/meter
to the positive (+) battery post, then to the B terminal on the switch. Trace
the wires on your tractor/equipment to see if they match the terminals on
this switch. If they don't match, the plug-in spade connectors/wires can
be rearranged in the plastic connector housing to match the corresponding
terminals on the switch. To do this, use a small flat blade screwdriver to
depress the locking tab/tang so the plug-in connector can be pulled out from
the plastic connector housing. Bend the locking tab/tang up slightly before
reinserting it in the plastic connector so it will be secured in place. Or
use #250
slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals
when connecting wires to switch. Requires 9/16" diameter mounting hole.
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 Battery Ignition
3-Position OFF-IGNITION-START Rotary Key Switch. Fits IH-built Cub Cadet
garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108,
109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 154, 184, 185
and LO BOY. Universal applications; can also be used for various makes and
models of garden tractors, small engine equipment, mini rod pulling tractors
and hot rods with battery-powered ignition or flywheel/crank trigger ignition.
For universal applications, use with #250
slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors. Identification
of 3 blade terminals are: BAT = positive (+) battery post; IGN
= Positive (+) Terminal on Ignition Coil ; ST = Starter Solenoid.
IMPORTANT: Must be used with a starter solenoid to crank engine to prevent
burning out internal contacts in switch. Unlike key switches listed above,
this switch comes with a serrated key.
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 Universal Wiring
Harness with Plastic Housing Connector. Fits universal OFF-IGNITION-START
rotary key switches listed above and other rotary key switches with same
terminal configuration. Three terminals will also fit the OEM Cub Cadet garden
tractor ignition key switch. Replace damaged wiring and connector, use as
new wiring harness on a custom-made project, or use this part when converting
from Breakerless Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition. 18"
length color-coded wires for easy identification. $13.00 each, plus
shipping & handling.
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 OFF-ON
Main/Master Disconnect/Cutoff Switch with Removable Key. Use this 100
amp capacity switch to disable all power throughout the equipment to prevent
sabotage an/or an accidental electrical short that could burn up the wiring
system or entire equipment. Useful when equipment is not used for a period
of time to prevent a slow drain on the battery, prevent short circuits when
performing electrical service on equipment, or for a pulling tractor to prevent
accidental starts or to prevent sabotage at the pull sites by disgruntled
pullers. Connect between negative (–) battery post and equipment ground.
Copper terminals with brass hex nuts for improved continuity. Comes with
protective weather cap and two removable nylon key locks. Mounting hardware
not included. $19.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
[Return to previous paragraph, section
or website] |
Solenoids/Relays - Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website. [Top of Page]
 Light Duty, 3 Terminal,
12 Volt Plastic Casing Starter Solenoid/Relay. Universal Usage. Suitable
for lawn and garden equipment, and stock competition pulling engines. Prevents
burning out a manual light-duty push button switch and eliminates need for
a heavy duty switch in a custom wiring circuit. Intermittent duty. Use to
temporarily activate any maximum 80 amp capacity electrical accessory. If
continually energized for long period of time, plastic body may melt. Internally
grounded through mounting base. Studs: 10-32 UNF, 1/4-20 UNC.. High quality
aftermarket. Grounded mounting base. Wiring connections: Small terminal connects
to key switch or momentary push button switch to energize solenoid. One large
terminal connects to positive (+) battery post, and the other large terminal
connects to starter motor, horn, kill switch motor, etc.
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  Loop-Type Cable/Wire/Hose Clamps. Use to secure throttle or
choke cables, or for safe routing of electrical wire(s), battery cable, small
remote fuel primer hose or bundle of wires along frame. Each requires 3/16"
mounting screw.
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 (Added 8/2/21) Conversion
Kit for Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321 or K341 to Convert from the
Tediousness of a Recoil/Rope Start to the Convenience of an Electric Gear
Starter. Very useful in cold weather when most Kohler engines are harder
to start. Can be used for virtually any lawn and garden equipment, including
log splitters, air compressors, generators/welders, water pumps, etc. NOTE:
The early K241 and K301 engines must have a curved indentation above the
two bolt holes on the right side of the block (when facing the flywheel)
to install the upper mount starter motor. Also needed, but not included
with kit below: minimum #16 gauge (AWG) stranded copper wire w/crimp terminals
(length?) to connect the small terminal on the solenoid to the supplied push
button starter switch; minimum #8 gauge (AWG) red insulated stranded copper
wire w/crimp terminals (length?) to connect the gear starter to one of the
large terminals on the solenoid; minimum #8 gauge (AWG) red insulated stranded
copper wire w/crimp terminals (length?) to connect the positive (+) battery
post directly to the other large terminal on the solenoid; minimum #8 gauge
(AWG) black insulated stranded copper wire w/crimp terminals (length?) to
connect the negative (–) battery post directly to engine/chassis ground;
and a (preferably new) fully charged
12 volt minimum 350 CCA battery, or a
12 volt portable jump start/battery booster.
Kit Includes:
Additional Required Wiring for Conversion Kit listed above... Please specify if any of the below are needed and the length of each wire.
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Starter Motors - Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website. [Top of Page]
 High Torque
Gear Starter Motors. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K161 and K181. 12 volt
negative ground. All starter motors are high torque nowadays. They have 20%
more wire windings than the early OEM Kohler starter, giving it 20% more
cranking power. Draws less amps; a smaller size battery can be used. Cranks
engine about twice as fast and draws less amps than an ordinary starter.
But with a
broken compression release, a direct-drive high torque starter may not be
able to crank the engine. It'll be best to adjust the valve clearances, repair
the compression release mechanism or replace the cam with a working compression
release. FYI - The aftermarket starter motors I
sell are the same as OEM Kohler starters. Kohler just place a big markup
on theirs because it comes in a Kohler brand box and the starter has the
Kohler name stamped on it. Kohler part # 41 098 08-S.
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 Replacement 10
Tooth Starter Drive Gear Kit (Bendix). Fits Kohler K-series engine models
K241, K301, K321, K341 and K361 with the new style upper or lower mount starter
motor (below) with the 10 tooth gear. Will not fit the OEM old style starter
motors. Also fits Kohler Magnum engine models M10, M12, M14 and M16. If the
windings are not burnt, and the brushes and bushings are in good condition
in a used starter, use this kit to refurbish the starter motor. No need to
purchase a new starter motor.
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 Starter Motor
Rebuild Kits. Fits Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, M8,
M10, M12, M14, M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20, CH11, CH12.5, CH14, CH22,
CV11, CV12.5, CV14, CV15, CV18, CV20, CV22, TH16, TH18, TH575 and TH650 with
the old style and new style high torque starter motors. If the windings are
not burnt in a used starter, use this to refurbish the starter motor. No
need to purchase a new starter motor.
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 10 and 13 Tooth
Upper Mount High Torque Gear Starter Motors. (Mounting bolts are below starter
motor.) Fits certain Kohler K-series engine models K241, K301, K321, K341
and K361. 12 volt negative ground. All new starter motors are high torque
nowadays. They have 20% more wire windings than the early OEM Kohler starter,
giving it 20% more cranking power. Cranks engine about twice as fast and
draws less amps than an ordinary starter; a smaller battery can be used.
In addition to the extra windings, the 10 tooth starter gear gives this starter
extra torque so it'll crank the engine with less effort. The 10 tooth starter
provides 13% more cranking torque than the 13 tooth starter, and the 13 tooth
starter cranks the engine over 30% faster than the 10 tooth starter. The
13 tooth starter is best to be used with working compression release.
But with a
broken compression release, a direct-drive high torque starter may not be
able to crank the engine. It'll be best to adjust the valve clearances, repair
the compression release mechanism or replace the cam with a working compression
release. FYI - The 10 tooth starter cannot be used
in place of the 13 tooth starter, but the 13 tooth starter can be used in
place of the 10 tooth starter by shimming/spacing the starter away from the
engine block with an ordinary flat washer on each mounting
bolt.
And the aftermarket starter motors I sell are the same as
OEM Kohler starters. Kohler just place a big markup on theirs because it
comes in a box with the Kohler name on it and the starter has the Kohler
name stamped on it. NOTE: The early K241 and K301 engines must have
a curved indentation above the two bolt holes on the right side of the block
when facing the flywheel to install the upper mount starter motor.
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 The
Ultimate High Torque Gear Reduction Starter Motor and Bracket Assembly!
Suitable for Kohler 10hp, 12hp, 14hp, 16hp and 18hp OHV Competition Pulling
Engines. 12 volt negative ground. This is an extremely powerful starter!
It will not hesitate whatsoever to crank over most Kohler K-series single
cylinder engines with a high compression machined billet cylinder head without
an automatic compression release (ACR). Ideal for Hot-Stock, Stock-Altered,
30 c.i., 37c.i./16hp Missouri Super-Stock, and 50.5 c.i. Modified-Class single
cylinder competition pulling engines. This starter will also crank over an
ordinary lawn and garden Kohler engine with a non-working automatic compression
release. No need to use this starter on an engine with a working automatic
compression release (ACR). The starter gear will fit inside the OEM Kohler
flywheel shroud. It's a direct bolt-on with no adjustment necessary. Comes
with a heavy duty CNC-machined billet aluminum adapter/mounting bracket.
Has a built-in solenoid; no need for a separate solenoid. NOTES: Best
to use a
long reach hex bit (Allen) socket to fasten socket (Allen)
head bolts to engine block. And on certain starters, part of the engine block
next to the cylinder may need to be ground away about 1/8" for clearance
of the main battery cable terminal.
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 High Torque
Lower Mount Gear Starter Motors. (Mounting bolts are above starter motor.)
Fits certain Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321 and K341 engines. 12 volt
negative ground. All new starter motors are high torque nowadays. They have
20% more wire windings than the early OEM Kohler starter, giving it 20% more
cranking power. Cranks engine about twice as fast and draws less amps than
an ordinary starter; a smaller battery can be used.
But with a
broken compression release, a direct-drive high torque starter may not be
able to crank the engine. It'll be best to adjust the valve clearances, repair
the compression release mechanism or replace the cam with a working compression
release. FYI - The aftermarket starter motors I
sell are the same as OEM Kohler starters. Kohler just place a big markup
on theirs because it comes in a box with the Kohler name on it and the starter
has the Kohler name stamped on it.
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 High Torque
Gear Starter Motors for Kohler Magnum engine models M8, M10, M12, M14 and
M16 engines. 12 volt. All new starter motors are high torque nowadays. They
have 20% more wire windings than the early OEM Kohler starter, giving it
20% more cranking power. Cranks engine about twice as fast and draws less
amps than an ordinary starter; a smaller battery can be used. Length: 7-1/4";
mounting studs: two 1/4"-20; O.D. housing: 3-1/16"; center to center mount:
2-1/2"'.
But with a
broken compression release, a direct-drive high torque starter may not be
able to crank the engine. It'll be best to adjust the valve clearances, repair
the compression release mechanism or replace the cam with a working compression
release. FYI - The aftermarket starter motors I
sell are the same as OEM Kohler starters. Kohler just place a big markup
on theirs because it comes in a box with the Kohler name on it and the starter
has the Kohler name stamped on it.
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 High Torque
Gear Starter Motors. Fits Kohler opposed twin engine models MV16, KT17, KT17
Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, KT21, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. 12 volt negative
ground. All new starter motors are high torque nowadays. They have 20% more
wire windings than the early OEM Kohler starter, giving it 20% more cranking
power. Cranks engine about twice as fast and draws less amps than an ordinary
starter; a smaller battery can be used. Due to their low compression, the
Kohler opposed twin cylinder engines do not have a compression release, nor
do they need one. FYI - The aftermarket starter motors I sell are the
same as OEM Kohler starters. Kohler just place a big markup on theirs because
it comes in a box with the Kohler name on it and the starter has the Kohler
name stamped on it.
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 High Torque
Gear Starter Motors for Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582. NOTES:
(1) Additional 6.6mm unthreaded hole in additional DE mounting position,
(1) 5.9mm unthreaded hole in CE frame, 1/4-20 threaded battery terminal,
128.2mm magnetic field case length, rubber skirt drive. 12 volt. All new
starter motors are high torque nowadays. They have 20% more wire windings
than the early OEM Kohler starter, giving it 20% more cranking power. Draws
less amps; a smaller battery can be used. Cranks engine about twice as fast
and draws less amps than an ordinary starter.
But with a
broken compression release, a direct-drive high torque starter may not be
able to crank the engine. It'll be best to adjust the valve clearances, repair
the compression release mechanism or replace the cam with a working compression
release. FYI - The aftermarket starter motors I
sell are the same as OEM Kohler starters. Kohler just place a big markup
on theirs because it comes in a box with the Kohler name on it and the starter
has the Kohler name stamped on it.
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 High Torque 12
Volt Gear Starter Motors with Solenoid Shift. Fits Kohler V-twin engine models
CH25, CH620, CH621, CH640, CH641, CH670, CH680, CH682, CH730, CH732, CH735,
CH740, CH742, CH745, CH750, CH752, CH940, CH960, CH980, CH1000, CV620, CV640,
CV670, CV680, CV682, CV730, CV730, CV732, CV740, CV742, CV745, CV750, CV752,
CV940, CV960, CV980, CV1000, ECH630, ECH650, ECH680, ECH730, ECH740, ECH749,
ECH940, ECH980, ECV630, ECV650, ECV680, ECV730, ECV740, ECV749, ECV850, ECV860,
ECV870, ECV880, ECV940, ECV980, ELH775, EZT715, EZT725, EZT740, EZT750, FCV740,
KT715, LH630, LH640, LH685, LH690, LH750, LH755, LH775, LV680, PCH680, PCH740,
PCV680, PCV740, PCV850, PCV860, ZT710, ZT720, ZT730 and ZT740. NOTES: 10-tooth
drive starter. All new starter motors are high torque nowadays. They have
20% more wire windings than the early OEM Kohler starter, giving it 20% more
cranking power. Draws less amps; a smaller battery can be used. Cranks engine
about twice as fast and draws less amps than an ordinary starter.
But with a broken
compression release, a direct-drive high torque starter may not be able to
crank the engine. It'll be best to adjust the valve clearances, repair the
compression release mechanism or replace the cam with a working compression
release. FYI - The aftermarket starter motors I
sell are the same as OEM Kohler starters. Kohler just place a big markup
on theirs because it comes in a box with the Kohler name on it and the starter
has the Kohler name stamped on it.
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 High Torque Gear
Starter Motor for Briggs & Stratton 14, 16, 18 and 20hp Opposed Twin
Cylinder Engines. 12 volt. All new starter motors are high torque nowadays.
They have 15% more wire windings than the short version starter, giving it
15% more cranking power. Draws less amps; a smaller battery can be used.
Cranks engine about twice as fast and draws less amps than an ordinary starter.
FYI - The aftermarket starter motors I sell are the same as OEM Briggs
& Stratton starters. Briggs just place a big markup on theirs because
it comes in a box with their name on it and the starter has the Briggs &
Stratton logo stamped on it.
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Amp Gauges - Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website. [Top of Page]
 Universal
Analog 10 Amp and 20 Amp Ammeter / Amp Gauge Kits. Gauges registers up
to 10 or 20 amps of charge, depending on total output amperage of stator
or alternator. Install these gauges to know exactly what the charging system
on your engine is doing. Having an ammeter/amp gauge installed is very important
in monitoring the charging system to prevent premature failure of electrical
components. By the time you smell something burning or see smoke, it may
be too late. If the charging system continues to charge on the plus (+) side
with no gradual moving back of the needle to zero on the gauge (if installed)
while the engine is running at full governed speed, this will send too much
voltage to the battery, which could eventually burn up the cells in the battery,
or burn up the primary windings in the ignition coil. Overcharging of the
electrical system could also burn up the electronic ignition control module/unit
(crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger), burn
out light bulbs, electric PTO clutch or any other electrical accessories.
As battery becomes fully charged, needle slowly moves from positive side
(+) to zero (0). Needle will stay on negative side (–) if no charge
goes to the battery. Or gauge will not show any charge at all if charging
system is not working. Easy 2-wire connections. Connect the positive (+)
terminal on back of gauge to the positive (+) battery post, and connect the
negative (–) terminal on back of gauge to the wire going to the ignition
switch that provides power to everything. If the
wires/connections are reversed, and if the charging system is in good working
condition, the gauge will show discharge (–) instead of charge (+).
Use minimum 12 gauge (AWG) stranded wire. Non-lighted gauges. Each requires
2" diameter mounting hole and comes with mounting clamp and nuts.
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Voltage Regulator, Voltage Rectifier/Regulators and Diodes - Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website. [Top of Page]
 New 12 volt,
15 Amp Analog Voltage Regulator for Starter/Generators. If the charging system
continues to charge with no gradual moving back of the needle to zero on
an analog ammeter/amp gauge (if installed) while the
engine is running, this will put too much voltage through the coil, eventually
burning out the primary windings. Overcharging of the charging system could
also burn up the electronic ignition control module
(crank trigger), burn up the battery, burn
out light bulbs, electric PTO clutch and any other electrical accessories.
With the terminals facing you, they read: L (Lights) | Bat (Battery) | F
(Field), with A (Armature) on the bottom. L connects to the Lights (if equipped);
Bat connects to the ignition switch, which connects to the positive (+) battery
post; F connects to the Field terminal on the starter/generator; and Armature
connects to the Armature terminal on the starter/generator. The frame of
the regulator must be securely grounded to the tractor or equipment through
the mounting bolts. NOTE: Cannot be substituted for use with the
alternator/stator charging system.
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   Two Wire Rectifier
Diodes. The 3- and 4-amp diodes can be used in a non-regulated small engine
alternator/stator12 volt charging system to convert alternating current (AC)
to direct current (DC) to recharge the battery and/or to power low-amperage
DC electrical accessories, such as LED lights, small electric motors, etc.
A diode is not required for
filament light bulbs, fluorescent and LED shop lights,
and/or an electric PTO clutch. Do not overload the amperage of the diode
or it may burn up. The 1 amp diode can be used on an engine with a small
charging coil next to the magneto ignition coil on the stator to energize
the field windings in a direct-drive 120/240 volt AC portable generator powered
by a small engine or for a
belt-driven automotive
alternator that's powered by a small engine so the alternator/generator
will produce electricity as soon as the engine starts. IMPORTANT - Install
the diode with the silver stripe toward the generator's field windings.
FYI - Briggs & Stratton engines have either one or two OEM alternator stators and they are joined together in two half circles under the flywheel. Some engines only come with one half stator. Each half produce 3 amps of power & 14 volts @ 3,600 RPM. If an engine comes with two stators joined together, one half produces AC, which is used to power the lights and electric PTO clutch. And the other half also produce AC, but is connected to a minimum 3 amp/14 volt diode, which is used to only recharge the battery. Under normal yard use, 3 amps is not enough to overcharge and burn up the battery. If both stator halves are wired together from the factory (as they are on certain engines), they will produce 6 amps of AC power and a 6 amp solid state electronic voltage rectifier/regulator is used to power the lights, electric PTO clutch and recharge the battery. |
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 1/4" Width Slide-On
Brass Spade Crimp Wire Connector with Locking Tab/Tang. Replace damaged brass
connector(s) to insure 100% electrical connections. Fits plastic housing
electrical connectors used on most OFF-IGNITION-START key switches, voltage
rectifier/regulators, head lights, etc. FYI - Solder or use
terminal crimping pliers to secure new brass connector
on wire. To remove old slide-on brass connector from plastic housing, depress
locking tab/tang on connector from the wire end with a small flat blade
screwdriver, and pull connector out of housing. Before installing the new
connector, make sure locking tab/tang is slightly bent outward, and then
slide connector into plastic housing in the correct position until it locks/snaps
in place. This part was never available separately from Kohler.
$1.40 each, plus shipping & handling. |
 Plastic Housing Electrical
Connector. Fits old style 10 amp and new style 15/20 amp voltage
rectifier/regulators below. Replace damaged/melted connector when the brass
slide-on spade crimp wire connectors are in good condition. Requires 1/4"
width slide-on brass spade crimp wire connector with locking tab/tang. OEM
Kohler part # 25 155 41-S. $5.20 each, plus shipping & handling. |
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 Voltage
Rectifier/Regulators for New-Style 15/20 Amp Output 12 Volt Alternator/Stator
Charging Stators below. If the charging system continues to generate full
charge with no gradual moving back of the needle to zero on an analog
ammeter/amp gauge (if installed) while the engine
is running, the excessive overcharging may eventually burn out the primary
windings in the ignition coil, burn up the electronic ignition control module
(crank trigger), burn up the battery, burn
out light bulbs, electric PTO clutch, and any other electrical accessories.
The solid state electronic voltage rectifier/regulators shown works the same.
These voltage rectifier/regulators are small, compact and have the same mounting
hole spacing, and fit many 8 thru 24hp Kohler engine models with a 15 or
20 amp alternator/stator charging stator under the flywheel. Each mounts
in the rectangular hole in the Kohler flywheel shroud with ribs facing the
flywheel for better cooling of the unit. If it's mounted elsewhere with no
cool air blowing over it, it could burn up prematurely. These will also work
with virtually any 15 or 20 amp garden tractor, motorcycle, etc.alternator/stator
charging system. Orientation of the terminals are "three in a row" (AC -
BAT+ - AC). NOTE: These cannot be substituted for use with the
starter/generator charging system.
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   Voltage
Rectifier/Regulators for New-Style 15/20 Amp Output 12 Volt Alternator Charging
Stators below. If the charging system continues to generate full charge with
no gradual moving back of the needle to zero on an analog
ammeter/amp gauge (if installed) while the engine
is running, the excessive overcharging may eventually burn out the primary
windings in the ignition coil, burn up the electronic ignition control module
(crank trigger), burn up the battery, burn
out light bulbs, electric PTO clutch, and any other electrical accessories.
Each have same mounting holes and fit many 8 thru 24hp Kohler engines with
a 15 amp alternator charging stator under the flywheel. These will work with
virtually any 15 or 20 amp garden tractor, motorcycle, etc.alternator/stator
charging system. The "two over, one under offset" plastic wiring connector
no longer available from Kohler. NOTE: Cannot be substituted for use with
the starter/generator charging system.
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Generating/Charging Stators and Internal Flywheel Charging Magnets - Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website. [Top of Page]
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  Internal Flywheel Magnets for Alternator/Stator Charging Systems.
Fits aluminum and cast iron block single and twin cylinder Kohler engine
models K141, K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series
II, KT19, KT19 Series II, M8, M10, M12, M14, M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20,
K482, K532, K582, CH1000, CH11-CH26, CH430, CH450, CH620-CH682, CH730-CH752,
CH940, CH980, CV1000, CV11-CV25, CV430-CV493, CV620-CV682, CV725, CV730-CV940,
CV960, CV980, ECV630-ECV680, ECV730-ECV749, ECV630-ECV680, ECV730-ECV749,
ECV850-ECV880, ECV940, ECV980, FCV740, KT610, KT620, KT715-KT745, LH430,
LH640-LH690, LH750, LH755, LV625-LV680, PCH680, PCH740, PCV680, PCV740, PCV850,
PCV860, SV470-SV480, SV530-SV590, SV600-SV620, SV710-SV740, SV810-SV840,
TH16, TH18, TH575, ZT710-ZT740, except various early John Deere with a single
cylinder Kohler engine with the 4-1/4"± charging stator, and larger
Tecumseh engines with an alternator/stator charging system having the 5-1/2"
diameter stator. Magnet(s) may come in 3/4" or 7/8" height, but will work
the same. Comes with magnetic poles identified. Not available separate from
Kohler or Tecumseh. All magnets are used and in excellent condition.
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 Solid State Electronic
Voltage Rectifier/Regulator for Old-Style 10 Amp Output 12 Volt Alternator/Stator
Charging Stators below Ê. If the charging
system continues to generate full charge with no gradual moving back of the
needle to zero on an analog ammeter/amp gauge (if
installed) while the engine is running, the excessive overcharging may eventually
burn out the primary windings in the ignition coil, burn up the electronic
ignition control module (crank trigger), burn
up the battery, burn out light bulbs, electric PTO clutch, and any other
electrical accessories. These will also work with virtually any 15 or 20
amp small engine alternator/stator charging system. Orientation of the terminals
are "three in a row" (AC | BAT+ | AC). NOTE: Cannot be substituted for
use with the starter/generator charging system. FYI: After many years
of use and for reasons unknown (even to me), the old-style 10 amp charging
system is notorious for generating very few amps, about 3 amps more or less
maximum at full governed engine speed, and I have no idea why. I believe
this is why the 10 amp stator was a short-lived item that was discontinued
from Kohler and replaced with the more reliable 15 or 20 amp stator charging
system, which works much better and is still in use on many makes and models
of small engines today. So if your engine has the 10 amp charging system
and it only generates a few amps, it may need to be upgraded with the new-style
15 or 20 charging system.
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Click
Here for Detailed Illustrated Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back
and Self-Propelled Garden Tractor Pulling Sled (Available
Soon)
To place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or
for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and
support, please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501
W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Call in your order or email us a list parts you need.
Payment Options. Please call Monday-Friday,
9am to 5pm, Central time zone, except holidays. If no answer, please try
again later. (When speaking with Brian on the phone, please be patient
and understanding because I stutter.)
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone, with an appointment on weekends, except holidays. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally purchase parts, or drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine parts, entire engine, transmission, transaxle, entire garden tractor, etc. for repairing and/or rebuilding. Please call, text or email me before coming so I'll be at my shop waiting for your arrival. When you visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with the owner for the best customer service. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. "The road to a [trusted] friend's house (or shop) is never long." Don't sacrifice quality workmanship for distance. [Return To Previous Paragraph, Section or Website]
By the way - As business is booming, we're going to relocate our business later this year at 12091 N. Rt. B, Hallsville, MO 65255 with a bigger, better, fully insulated, heated and air-conditioned building/shop (shouse) so we can provide many more high quality parts and professional services, and hire more help to have our customer's parts orders fulfilled sooner, parts repairs and engine rebuilds performed promptly without delay. We will also provide pick up and delivery service and perform professional repairs for various small engines and lawn & garden equipment! Photos during construction of our new building/shop are posted here!
Payment Options, and We Ship to Canada and
Worldwide 
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent
by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged
item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service
Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal
Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S.
territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground
or equivalent services. We try to keep our shipping cost to customers within
reason. Therefore, we don't ship our products in a fancy-looking package
with our company name and/or logo on it because most customers will just
toss it in the trash after they remove the contents. And being there is no
USPS tracking number outside the US, all I can do is make sure I write your
address correctly on the customs form and on your package.
My websites are not set up to process orders and accept payments. Therefore, for payment options, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total amount for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge), Western Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram Money Transfers. If paying with a credit/debit card, please call me at either number above. To make a payment to me through PayPal, please click this link: https://www.paypal.me/PullingTractor. Please use the "Friends and Family" option, or add 3% to the total amount to cover PayPal's processing surcharge. Or to make a payment to me (pullingtractor@aol.com) in the US through the Venmo. Or use Cash App or Zelle to make a payment to me (pullingtractor@aol.com). And be sure to mention in PayPal, Venmo or Cash App a description of what the payment is for with your full name, postal address, phone number and email address. If sending a money order or cashier's check, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete mailing address, phone number, email address and a description of what the payment is for. I'll make a note of your order when I have all your information, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send everything on your list to you as soon as I have the parts in stock after I receive your payment.
à Return to Main Pulling Tips Page | Return To Previous Website | Various Vendors Related to Tractor Pulling | Top of Page
Copyright © 1996-Present. This website created, designed and maintained by Brian Miller.
Aluminum Locking Set Screw Collar
w/Embedded Trigger Magnet. Use with hall effect proximity sensors only.
$15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Plastic Housing Electrical
Connector Only. Fits universal OFF-IGNITION-START rotary key switches
listed above and other rotary key switches with same terminal configuration.
Three slots will also fit the OEM Cub Cadet garden tractor ignition key switch.
Replace damaged connector when the brass slide-on spade crimp wire connectors
are in good condition. Requires 1/4" width slide-on brass spade crimp wire
connectors with locking tab/tang below. $6.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
Light Duty, 4 Terminal, 12 Volt,
Plastic Casing Starter Solenoid/Relay. Universal Usage. Suitable for lawn
and garden equipment, and stock competition pulling engines. Prevents burning
out a manual light-duty push button switch and eliminates need for a heavy
duty switch in a custom wiring circuit. Intermittent duty. Use to temporarily
activate any maximum 80 amp capacity electrical accessory. If continually
energized for long period of time, plastic body may melt. Internally grounded
through mounting base. Studs: 10-32 UNF, 1/4-20 UNC. Grounded mounting base.
Wiring connections: Small terminal connects to key switch or momentary push
button switch to energize solenoid. One large terminal connects to positive
(+) battery post, and the other large terminal connects to starter motor,
horn, kill switch motor, etc.
Heavy Duty, 4 Terminal, 12 Volt,
Plastic Casing Starter Solenoid/Relay. Universal Usage. Suitable for general
lawn and garden use, or high RPM competition pulling engines. Prevents burning
out a manual light-duty push button switch and eliminates need for a heavy
duty switch in a custom wiring circuit. Intermittent duty. Use to temporarily
activate any maximum 150 amp capacity electrical accessory. If continually
energized for long period of time, plastic body may melt. Internally grounded
through mounting base. Wiring connections: One large terminal connects to
positive (+) battery post, and other large terminal connects to starter motor.
The small [S] terminal connects to key switch or momentary push button
switch to energize solenoid, and other small [I] terminal connects
to positive (+) terminal on ignition coil to by-pass the ballast resistor
or resistor wire for points/condenser ignition, or connects to the Chrysler
or Ford electronic ignition control module/unit to give the coil a stronger
spark for faster engine start up. Studs: 10-32 UNF, 5/16-18 UNC.
Heavy Duty, 3 Terminal, 12 Volt,
Metal Casing Starter Solenoid/Relay. Universal Usage. Suitable for general
lawn and garden use, or high RPM competition pulling engines. Prevents burning
out a manual light-duty push button switch and eliminates need for a heavy
duty switch in a custom wiring circuit. Continuous duty; can be used to activate
any maximum 150 amp capacity electrical accessory for a long period of time.
Internally grounded through mounting base. Wiring connections: Small terminal
connects to key switch or momentary push button switch, which connects to
the positive (+) battery post. And one large terminal connects directly to
the positive (+) battery post, and other large terminal connects directly
to the starter motor, horn, kill switch motor, etc. Studs: 10-32 UNF, 5/16-18
UNC.
Heavy Duty, 4 Terminal, 12 Volt,
Metal Casing Starter Solenoid/Relay. Universal Usage. Suitable for general
lawn and garden use, or high RPM competition pulling engines. Prevents burning
out a manual light-duty push button switch and eliminates need for a heavy
duty switch in a custom wiring circuit. Continuous duty; can be used to activate
any maximum 150 amp capacity electrical accessory for a long period of time.
Isolated base; solenoid is not internally grounded. Wiring connections: One
small terminal must be grounded to the engine/chassis ground, which is connected
to the negative (–) battery post, and the other small terminal connects
to the key switch or momentary push button switch, which connects to the
positive (+) battery post. It doesn't matter which small terminal is connected
to the switch or ground. And one large terminal connects directly to the
positive (+) battery post, and other large terminal connects directly to
the starter motor, horn, kill switch motor, etc. Studs: 5/16-18 NC, 10-32
UNF.
Used 9-1/2" flywheel w/ring
gear. ($125.00)
Complete Alternator
Charging System Conversion Kit for Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321
or K341 with a fastened down, stationary 12 volt battery. Requires flywheel
with glued-in or riveted-in ceramic magnets for the 5-1/2" diameter 15 or
20 amp output stator. This kit can be used for the above, or can be used
to convert the old-style and dysfunctional 10 amp output charging system
with replacement of a flywheel that have the charging magnets embedded in
an aluminum ring, which is commonly found on certain early model John Deere
garden tractors.
Most quality-made starter motors are designed to last the life of the engine.
Therefore, if a good starter burns up prematurely, then this means that it
has cranked the engine for too long at one time. All starters are actually
6 volt motors operating on 12 volts. This is what gives them so much torque
to crank the engine so fast and with ease. So if a starter motor is spun
too long (longer than 2 minutes), the excess voltage will burn up the wire
windings in the starter. The longer it's spun, the hotter it will get, which
causes the windings to get very hot, which causes the insulating/separating
varnish coating on the windings to melt. When the coating melts, the windings
make contact with each other and become shorted out, and you have a burned
up starter on your hands. That's why most owner's and repair manuals say
to never crank an engine longer than 2 minutes at a time without allowing
adequate time for the starter to cool before cranking it again. (If an engine
won't start within 2 minutes of cranking, then it obviously needs a major
tune-up or repair!)
Do not touch the
two wire terminals on the 15 or 20 amp output stators with your bare hands
while the engine is running! Electrical shock or electrocution could
result!