A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises Online Catalog

Starter Motors, Solenoids/Relays and Electrical Charging System Parts


FOR SALE: Professionally Built Self-Propelled Pulling Sled for ATVs/UTVs, Garden Tractors & Small Wheel Mini Rods. $15,000.00 or best offer. Go here for information, YouTube videos and more pictures of this sled: HRGTPA.com. If interested, contact Brian Miller at 573-881-7229 (cell; text or voice mail). We're planning to move up to bigger and better pulling entertainment.

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Inductive and Crank Trigger Tachometers

Ignition/Lights/Auxiliary and Starter Switches

Starter/Utility Solenoids/Relays

High Torque Starter Motors

15 and 20 Amp Gauges

Voltage Regulator, Voltage Rectifier/Regulators and Diodes

Generating/Charging Stators and Internal Flywheel Charging Magnets


If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance and support, please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle, tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)


High Quality Tachometers - Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any of these parts or services. | [Top of Page]
High Quality Inductive Handheld Small Engine Wireless Tachometer. A tachometer is required in setting the correct RPMs (normally 3,200 or 3,600 maximum for small engines) of an engine to prevent from over-revving and possible damage to the engine or dangerous flywheel explosion. Works with magneto and battery-powered ignition systems. Very accurate. For gas/spark ignite engines only. Works with magneto and battery-powered ignition systems. This handheld analog tachometer works great for checking/setting the RPM on various small engines in the shop, and/or for checking/setting the RPM [tech] on stock governored competition pulling engines. Hold sensor (antenna) close to spark plug wire for reading. Operates off a self-contained replaceable 9 volt battery. Has built-in battery voltage check. Reads up to 5,000 RPM on the low scale, and 15,000 RPM on the high scale.
  • $154.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Inductive Small Engine Tachometer/Hour Meter. A tachometer is required in setting the correct RPMs (normally 3,200 or 3,600 maximum for small engines) of an engine to prevent over-revving and possible damage to the engine or dangerous flywheel explosion. Very accurate. Can be hand-held to temporarily set engine RPM or can be surface-mounted and secured with two screws. mounted to monitor engine RPM at all times. Large 3/8 inch LCD display. Works with all spark ignition engines by selecting engine type using S1 and S2 buttons. Works with magneto and battery-powered ignition systems. If tachometer does not turn on automatically as soon as engine starts, press and hold the two buttons at the same time. Instructions included. Tachometer reads up to 99,999 RPM. Hour meter reads up to 9999:59 hours/minutes then resets to Zero. Programmable maintenance hour setting with service icon, a reminder when to change oil or other service. Can be manually reset to Zero hours. Programmable maintenance hour setting with service icon, a reminder when to change oil or other service. Easy installation: Single wire wraps around spark plug wire and secured with two supplied nylon zip-ties. No wire terminal connections required. Dimensions: 2" wide x 1-3/4" depth x 3/4" height.
  • Inductive Small Engine Tachometer/Hour Meter with non-replaceable battery, rated up to 4 years. $20.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Inductive Small Engine Tachometer/Hour Meter with replaceable CR2450 battery. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Digital Tachometer/Proximity Sensor Kits. A tachometer is required in setting the correct RPMs (normally 3,200 or 3,600 maximum for small engines) of an engine to prevent from over-revving and possible damage to the engine or dangerous flywheel explosion. Choice of RED, GREEN or BLUE numeric display. Will work with single- or twin-cylinder small engines or multi-cylinder automotive engines, gas or diesel. Displays RPMs as soon as engine cranks over to start. Displays up to 9,999 RPM. Very accurate. Tachometer returns to zero [0000] when power (ignition) is turned off. Works with magneto (with a battery to power the proximity sensor and tachometer) and battery-powered ignition systems. Can be used for lawn & garden equipment or competition pulling engines. Designed to be permanently mounted to monitor engine RPM at all times. Tachometer can be in-dash or panel-mounted. This precision digital tachometer operates with external power and on the same principle as my crank- or flywheel-trigger ignition systems with a proximity sensor to detect the target, which can be a small ferrous steel screw or pin, or magnet in a rotating disc on the crankshaft or on/in flywheel. A sturdy steel or aluminum bracket will need to be fabricated by customer to mount the sensor in close proximity of the detector/trigger target. Set air gap/clearance at .010"-.188". Tachometer works with 8-24 volts DC, proximity sensor works with 6-36 volts DC. Dimensions for mounting hole for tachometer: 3" wide x 1-17/32" wide. Tachometer measures 1" in depth. Dimensions of proximity sensor: 15/32" diameter x 1-3/8" thread length. Wiring Instructions: #1 wire on tachometer connects to brown wire on proximity sensor and ignition switch (12 volt power), #2 wire on tachometer connects to blue wire on proximity sensor and engine/chassis ground (battery negative (–) post), and #5 wire on tachometer connects to black wire on (either) proximity sensor. Wires #3 and #4 connects to nothing. Wiring is the same for the hall effect and inductive proximity sensors. Some proximity sensors have an LED (Light Emitting Diode) on the rear of unit. If the proximity sensor is wired incorrectly, the LED will illuminate within the target. Cannot be wired in conjunction with the Dynatek Dyna S or PerTronix Ignitor ignition modules. This tachometer must be wired separately or wiring can be integrated with my crank trigger ignition system that use a proximity sensor.
  • Tachometer only. Can be used with virtually any Normally Open 3-wire hall effect, inductive or cube-shaped proximity sensor. $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Complete Kit with Tachometer and 15/32" Diameter x 2-1/2" Length x 43" Cable Length Hall Effect Proximity Sensor. (Senses the South pole of a small magnet embedded in an aluminum rotating locking collar, disc, or OEM magnet embedded in a flywheel.) $22.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Complete Kit with Tachometer and 15/32" Diameter x 2-1/2" Length x 43" Cable Length Inductive Proximity Sensor. (Senses the head of a small steel screw in a rotating locking collar, disc or flywheel.) $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling. . [Return to previous section]
Grounding-Type Safety Break-Away / Kill Switch with Pull-Pin. Use for competition pulling only; mount on rear of tractor. When the pin pulled, it grounds the ignition coil from producing spark. If using with a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition systems: Connect one wire to the chassis ground, and connect the other wire to the points/condenser wire or to the kill terminal on the solid state ignition coil/module. If using with a battery-powered ignition system: Connect one wire to the chassis ground, and connect the other wire to the coil negative (–) terminal. NOTE: With battery-powered ignition, as soon as pin is pulled (engine will die), manually shut off ignition switch right away to prevent possible damage to the ignition coil and electronic ignition module if equipped with crank trigger ignition. This type of switch does not disable power to the electric fuel pump on a pulling tractor. With this type of kill switch, the electric fuel pump must be shut-off manually by the ignition switch or an OFF/ON toggle switch.
  • Grounding-Type Safety Break-Away / Kill Switch with Pull-Pin. $14.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Replacement Pull-Pin for Break-Away Switch Above. Keep an extra on hand to replace a damaged or "misplaced" pin by a disgruntled competitive puller. $11.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Electrical Accessory Switches - Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any of these parts or services. | [Top of Page]
High Quality Universal Self-Grounding OFF/ON Switches for Magneto (points and condenser/capacitor) or Solid State Electronic Ignition Systems. Very durable, tough switches. Each can be mounted in metal (grounded) dashboard, instrument panel, engine control panel, engine flywheel shroud, etc. Single blade on switch connects to points wire or solid state electronic module wire/terminal that kills the engine. Can be used on anything that has points and condenser/capacitor magneto, solid state ignition/modules, such as: Kohler Magnum and Command engines, lawn mowers, lawn tractors, garden tillers, go-karts, chainsaws, portable air compressors, generators/welders, water pumps, etc.
  • OFF/ON Toggle Switch. Comes with OFF/ON indicator plate. Use #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connector on terminal when connecting ignition wire to switch. Grounded through body of switch. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # 223072-S. $3.60 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OFF/ON Key Switch. Use for security of equipment. Grounded through body of switch. Requires 5/8" mounting hole. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Universal OFF/ON Switches for Battery-Powered Ignition Systems. Each can be mounted in dashboard, instrument panel, engine control panel, etc. Very durable, tough switches. Can be used on virtually anything that has a battery-powered electrical system, such as: garden tractors, pulling tractors, mini-rods, hot-rods, farm tractors, automobiles, etc.
  • OFF/ON Toggle Switch. Can be used for lights, ignition, electric fuel pump, electric PTO clutch, etc. Maximum 20 amp capacity. Comes with OFF/ON indicator plate and two 6" wire leads. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # 238011-S. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OFF/ON Pull-Push Switch. Pull out = ON, Push in = OFF. Can be used for lights, ignition, electric fuel pump, electric PTO clutch, etc. Maximum 5 amp capacity. Two screw terminal connection. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # 275713. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OFF/ON Key Switch. Use for security of equipment. Use #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals when connecting wires to switch. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Universal Light Duty OFF/ON 15 Amp Capacity Momentary Push Button Switch. Normally Open; push to connect circuit. Use as starter switch to crank engine, as a safety switch, temporarily power electrical accessories, such as light(s), etc., or to power kill switch motor (on pulling sled). Starter solenoid/relay may be required if electrical load exceeds 15 amps. Use #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals when connecting wires to switch. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. 2-1/8" overall length. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

High Quality Universal Light Duty ON/OFF 15 Amp Capacity Momentary Push Button Switch. Normally Off; push to disconnect circuit. Use as a safety switch for transmission shifter in a pulling vehicle to disconnect power to the starting circuit when transmission is in gear. Use #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals when connecting wires to switch. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. 2-1/8" overall length. $16.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

High Quality Universal Heavy Duty 20 Amp Capacity Momentary Push Button Switch. Normally Open; push to connect circuit. Comes with two screws to connect between battery positive (+) post and starter motor. Heavy wire terminals and minimum #8 gauge wire recommended. Starter solenoid/relay may be required if electrical load exceeds 20 amps. Requires 5/8" mounting hole. $14.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

High Quality Universal 3-Position OFF-IGNITION-START Key Switch for use with Magneto w/Points and Condenser Ignition or Solid State Electronic Ignition. Use with a starter solenoid/relay to prevent burning out internal contacts in switch. Identification of terminals in clockwise rotation are: B = Battery (+); G = Ground (ground to body of switch); L = Lights (Auxiliary); M = Magneto (Ignition); S = Solenoid (starter). Key positions: OFF position makes contact with M+G; IGNITION position makes contact with B+L; START position makes contact with B+S. Each terminal identified for correct wire connections. If using an ammeter/amp gauge, connect the gauge/meter to the battery positive (+) post, then to the B terminal on the switch. Trace the wires on your tractor/equipment to see if they match the terminals on this switch. If they don't match, the plug-in spade connectors/wires can be rearranged in the plastic connector housing to match the corresponding terminals on the switch. To do this, use a small flat blade screwdriver to depress the locking tab/tang so the plug-in connector can be pulled out from the plastic connector housing. Bend the locking tab/tang up slightly before reinserting it in the plastic connector so it will be secured in place. Or use #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals when connecting wires to switch. Requires 5/8" diameter mounting hole.
  • Our part # 9158. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Universal 3-Position OFF-IGNITION-START Key Switch for use with Battery-Powered Points/Condenser Ignition or Flywheel/Crank-Trigger Electronic Ignition. Use with a starter solenoid/relay to prevent burning out internal contacts in switch. Identification of terminals in clockwise rotation are: I = Ignition; A = Auxiliary (lights, electric PTO clutch, etc.); R = Voltage Rectifier/Regulator (not used with a starter/generator); B = Battery (+); S = Solenoid (starter). Key positions: OFF position = no contact; IGNITION position makes contact with B+I+R+A; START position makes contact with B+I+R+S. Each terminal identified for correct wire connections. If using an ammeter/amp gauge, connect the gauge/meter to the battery positive (+) post, then to the B terminal on the switch. Trace the wires on your tractor/equipment to see if they match the terminals on this switch. If they don't match, the plug-in spade connectors/wires can be rearranged in the plastic connector housing to match the corresponding terminals on the switch. To do this, use a small flat blade screwdriver to depress the locking tab/tang so the plug-in connector can be pulled out from the plastic connector housing. Bend the locking tab/tang up slightly before reinserting it in the plastic connector so it will be secured in place. Or use #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals when connecting wires to switch. Requires 9/16" diameter mounting hole.
  • Our part # 33393. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Brass Slide-On Spade Wire Connector with Locking Tab/Tang. Replace damaged or broken OEM connector in plastic connector housing used on most Off-Ignition-Start key switches, voltage rectifier/regulators, etc. To remove old connector from plastic housing, depress locking tab/tang from opposite the wire end with a small flat screwdriver, and pull connector out of the housing. Solder or use terminal crimping pliers to install on wire. Before installing the new connector, make sure locking tab/tang is slightly bent outward, and slide connector into plastic housing in the correct position until it locks/snaps in place. This part was never available from Kohler.
  • $1.40 each, plus shipping & handling.
OFF/ON Main Disconnect/Cutoff Switch. Use this 100 amp capacity electrical switch to disconnect power to everything on the equipment. Connect between battery negative (–) post and ground. Useful when equipment is not used for a period of time to prevent a slow drain on the battery, prevent short circuits when performing electrical service on equipment, or for a pulling tractor to prevent accidental starts or to prevent sabotage at the pull sites from disgruntled pullers. Copper terminals with brass hex nuts for improved continuity. Comes with protective weather cap and two removable nylon key locks. Mounting hardware not included. [Return to previous paragraph, section or website]
  • $19.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Solenoids/Relays - Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any of these parts or services. | [Top of Page]
3 Terminal Solenoid/Relay, 12 volt, plastic body, universal mount. Suitable for lawn and garden equipment, and stock competition pulling engines. Prevents from burning out a light-duty manual starter switch and eliminates need for a heavy duty manual starter switch in a custom wiring circuit. Intermittent duty. Use to temporarily activate any maximum 80 amp capacity electrical accessory. If continually energized for long period of time, plastic body may melt. Internally grounded through mounting base. Studs: 10-32 UNF, 1/4-20 UNC.. High quality aftermarket. Grounded mounting base. Wiring connections: Small terminal connects to starter switch or momentary push button switch to energize solenoid. One large terminal connects to battery positive (+) post, and the other large terminal connects to starter motor, horn, kill switch motor, etc.
  • High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 25 435 08-S. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 25 435 08-S. $48.85 each, plus shipping & handling.


4 Terminal Solenoid/Relay, 12 volt, plastic body, universal mount. Suitable for lawn and garden equipment, and stock competition pulling engines. Prevents from burning out a light-duty manual starter switch and eliminates need for a heavy duty manual starter switch in a custom wiring circuit. Intermittent duty. Use to temporarily activate any maximum 80 amp capacity electrical accessory. If continually energized for long period of time, plastic body may melt. Internally grounded through mounting base. Studs: 10-32 UNF, 1/4-20 UNC. Grounded mounting base. Wiring connections: Small terminal connects to starter switch or momentary push button switch to energize solenoid. One large terminal connects to battery positive (+) post, and the other large terminal connects to starter motor, horn, kill switch motor, etc.

  • High quality aftermarket. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # 45 435 07-S. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


4 Terminal Starter Solenoid/Relay, 12 volt, Plastic Body, Universal Usage. Suitable for general lawn and garden use, or high RPM competition pulling engines. Prevents from burning out a manual light-duty switch and eliminates need for a heavy duty switch in a custom wiring circuit. Intermittent duty. Use to temporarily activate any maximum 150 amp capacity electrical accessory. If continually energized for long period of time, plastic body may melt. Internally grounded through mounting base. Wiring connections: One large terminal connects to battery positive (+) post, and other large terminal connects to starter motor. The small [S] terminal connects to starter switch or momentary push button switch to energize solenoid, and other small [I] terminal connects to positive (+) terminal on ignition coil to by-pass the ballast resistor or resistor wire for points/condenser ignition, or connects to the Chrysler or Ford electronic ignition control module/unit to give the coil a stronger spark for faster engine start up. Studs: 10-32 UNF, 5/16-18 UNC.

  • Our part # R/A 4D7. $13.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


3 Terminal Starter Solenoid/Relay, 12 volt, Metal Body, Universal Usage. Suitable for general lawn and garden use, or high RPM competition pulling engines. Prevents from burning out a manual light-duty switch and eliminates need for a heavy duty switch in a custom wiring circuit. Continuous duty; can be used to activate any maximum 150 amp capacity electrical accessory for a long period of time. Internally grounded through mounting base. Wiring connections: Small terminal connects to starter switch or momentary push button switch, which connects to the positive (+) battery post. And one large terminal connects directly to the battery positive (+) post, and other large terminal connects directly to the starter motor, horn, kill switch motor, etc. Studs: 10-32 UNF, 5/16-18 UNC.

  • High quality aftermarket. (Heavy duty version of the small 3 post plastic case solenoid above.) Replaces Kohler part # 25 435 08-S. Our part # 48-1009. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


4 Terminal Starter Solenoid/Relay, 12 volt, Metal Body, Universal Usage. Suitable for general lawn and garden use, or high RPM competition pulling engines. Prevents from burning out a manual light-duty switch and eliminates need for a heavy duty switch in a custom wiring circuit. Continuous duty; can be used to activate any maximum 150 amp capacity electrical accessory for a long period of time. Isolated base; solenoid is not internally grounded. Wiring connections: One small terminal must be grounded to the engine or chassis, which is connected to the negative (–) battery post, and the other small terminal connects to the starter switch, which connects to the positive (+) battery post. It doesn't matter which terminal is connected to the switch or ground. And one large terminal connects directly to the battery positive (+) post, and other large terminal connects directly to the starter motor, horn, kill switch motor, etc. Studs: 5/16-18 NC, 10-32 UNF.

  • High quality aftermarket. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # 45 435 07-S. Our part # 48-1008. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Starter Motors - Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any of these parts or services. | [Top of Page]
High Torque Gear Starter Motors for Kohler engine models K141, K161 and K181 single cylinder cast iron block Kohler engine. 12 volt, 16 tooth gear. All starter motors are high torque nowadays. They have 20% more wire windings than the early OEM Kohler starter, giving it 20% more cranking power. Draws less amps; a smaller battery can be used. Cranks engine about twice as fast and draws less amps than an ordinary starter. But with a broken compression release, a direct-drive high torque starter may not be able to crank the engine. It'll be best to adjust the valve clearances, repair the compression release mechanism or replace the cam with a working compression release. FYI - The aftermarket starter motors I sell are the same as OEM Kohler starters. Kohler just place a big markup on theirs because it comes in a Kohler brand box and the starter has the Kohler name stamped on it. Kohler part # 41 098 08-S.
  • New high quality aftermarket starter. Comes with manufacturer's 100% unconditional limited one year warranty. Replaces Kohler part # 41 098 08-S. $90.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • New OEM Kohler starter. Comes with a limited 90 day warranty against defects in materials or workmanship. OEM Kohler part # 41 098 08-S. $190.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

IMPORTANT! Most quality-made starter motors are designed to last the life of the engine. Therefore, if a good starter burns up prematurely, then this means that it has cranked the engine for too long at one time. All starters are actually 6 volt motors operating on 12 volts. This is what gives them so much torque to crank the engine so fast and with ease. So if a starter motor is spun too long (longer than 2 minutes), the excess voltage will burn up the wire windings in the starter. The longer it's spun, the hotter it will get, which causes the windings to get very hot, which causes the insulating/separating varnish coating on the windings to melt. When the coating melts, the windings make contact with each other and become shorted out, and you have a burned up starter on your hands. That's why most owner's and repair manuals say to never crank an engine longer than 2 minutes at a time without allowing adequate time for the starter to cool before cranking it again. (If an engine won't start within 2 minutes of cranking, then it obviously needs a major tune-up or repair!)

Replacement Starter Gear Kit for Kohler Engine Models K241-K361 with the High Torque Gear Starter (below). Fits the newer upper and lower mount gear starters with the 10 tooth gear. Will not fit the older low torque gear starters.
  • High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 41 755 33-S. $33.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 41 755 33-S. $161.55 each, plus shipping & handling.
10 and 13 Tooth Upper Mount (mounting bolts are below starter) High Torque Gear Starter Motors for Kohler K-series engine models K241, K301, K321, K341 and K361. 12 volt. All new starter motors are high torque nowadays. They have 20% more wire windings than the early OEM Kohler starter, giving it 20% more cranking power. Cranks engine about twice as fast and draws less amps than an ordinary starter. Therefore, a smaller battery can be used. In addition to the extra windings, the 10 tooth starter gear gives this starter extra torque so it'll crank the engine with less effort. The 10 tooth starter provides 13% more cranking torque than the 13 tooth starter, and the 13 tooth starter cranks the engine over 30% faster than the 10 tooth starter. The 13 tooth starter is best to be used with working compression release. But with a broken compression release, a direct-drive high torque starter may not be able to crank the engine. It'll be best to adjust the valve clearances, repair the compression release mechanism or replace the cam with a working compression release. FYI - The 10 tooth starter cannot be used in place of the 13 tooth starter, but the 13 tooth starter can be used in place of the 10 tooth starter by shimming/spacing the starter away from the engine block with an ordinary flat washer on each mounting bolt. And the aftermarket starter motors I sell are the same as OEM Kohler starters. Kohler just place a big markup on theirs because it comes in a box with the Kohler name on it and the starter has the Kohler name stamped on it.
  • New high quality aftermarket 10 tooth starter. Comes with manufacturer's 100% unconditional limited one year warranty. Replaces Kohler part # 45 098 09-S. $60.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • New OEM Kohler 10 tooth starter. Comes with a limited 90 day warranty against defects in materials or workmanship. OEM Kohler part # 45 098 09-S. $211.45 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • New high quality aftermarket 13 tooth starter. Comes with manufacturer's 100% unconditional limited one year warranty. Replaces Kohler part #'s 45 098 06-S, 45 098 11-S. $84.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • New OEM Kohler 13 tooth starter. Comes with limited 90 day warranty against defects in materials or workmanship. OEM Kohler part #'s 45 098 06-S, 45 098 11-S. $338.70 each, plus shipping & handling.

IMPORTANT! Most quality-made starter motors are designed to last the life of the engine. Therefore, if a good starter burns up prematurely, then this means that it has cranked the engine for too long at one time. All starters are actually 6 volt motors operating on 12 volts. This is what gives them so much torque to crank the engine so fast and with ease. So if a starter motor is spun too long (longer than 2 minutes), the excess voltage will burn up the wire windings in the starter. The longer it's spun, the hotter it will get, which causes the windings to get very hot, which causes the insulating/separating varnish coating on the windings to melt. When the coating melts, the windings make contact with each other and become shorted out, and you have a burned up starter on your hands. That's why most owner's and repair manuals say to never crank an engine longer than 2 minutes at a time without allowing adequate time for the starter to cool before cranking it again. (If an engine won't start within 2 minutes of cranking, then it obviously needs a major tune-up or repair!)

The Ultimate High Torque, Gear Reduction Starter Motor that will not hesitate when cranking a Kohler K-series single cylinder engine without an automatic compression release and with a high compression machined billet cylinder head. Capable of cranking over a 30 c.i., 37c.i./16hp Missouri Super-Stock and 50.5 c.i. Modified-Class single cylinder pulling engine. This is an extremely powerful starter for a Kohler pulling engine! Comes with a heavy duty CNC-machined billet aluminum adapter/mounting bracket. NOTE: Best to use an extra long hex bit (Allen) wrench when fastening the socket (Allen) head bolts to engine block.
  • High Torque Gear Reduction Starter Starter and Bracket Assembly with a used, but in excellent condition starter motor. Comes with a limited 90 day warranty. $160.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • High Torque Gear Reduction Starter Starter and Bracket Assembly with a new high quality starter motor. Comes with a limited lifetime warranty. $230.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

IMPORTANT! Most quality-made starter motors are designed to last the life of the engine. Therefore, if a good starter burns up prematurely, then this means that it has cranked the engine for too long at one time. All starters are actually 6 volt motors operating on 12 volts. This is what gives them so much torque to crank the engine so fast and with ease. So if a starter motor is spun too long (longer than 2 minutes), the excess voltage will burn up the wire windings in the starter. The longer it's spun, the hotter it will get, which causes the windings to get very hot, which causes the insulating/separating varnish coating on the windings to melt. When the coating melts, the windings make contact with each other and become shorted out, and you have a burned up starter on your hands. That's why most owner's and repair manuals say to never crank an engine longer than 2 minutes at a time without allowing adequate time for the starter to cool before cranking it again. (If an engine won't start within 2 minutes of cranking, then it obviously needs a major tune-up or repair!)

High Torque Lower Mount (mounting bolts are above starter) Gear Starter Motors for Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321, K341 and K361 engines. 12 volt. All new starter motors are high torque nowadays. They have 20% more wire windings than the early OEM Kohler starter, giving it 20% more cranking power. Draws less amps; a smaller battery can be used. Cranks engine about twice as fast and draws less amps than an ordinary starter. In addition to the extra windings, the 10 tooth starter gear gives this starter extra torque so it'll crank the engine with less effort. But with a broken compression release, a direct-drive high torque starter may not be able to crank the engine. It'll be best to adjust the valve clearances, repair the compression release mechanism or replace the cam with a working compression release. FYI - The aftermarket starter motors I sell are the same as OEM Kohler starters. Kohler just place a big markup on theirs because it comes in a box with the Kohler name on it and the starter has the Kohler name stamped on it.
  • New high quality aftermarket starter. Comes with manufacturer's 100% unconditional limited one year warranty. Replaces Kohler part # 45 098 10-S. $73.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • New OEM Kohler starter. Comes with a limited 90 day warranty against defects in materials or workmanship. OEM Kohler part # 45 098 10-S. $216.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

IMPORTANT! Most quality-made starter motors are designed to last the life of the engine. Therefore, if a good starter burns up prematurely, then this means that it has cranked the engine for too long at one time. All starters are actually 6 volt motors operating on 12 volts. This is what gives them so much torque to crank the engine so fast and with ease. So if a starter motor is spun too long (longer than 2 minutes), the excess voltage will burn up the wire windings in the starter. The longer it's spun, the hotter it will get, which causes the windings to get very hot, which causes the insulating/separating varnish coating on the windings to melt. When the coating melts, the windings make contact with each other and become shorted out, and you have a burned up starter on your hands. That's why most owner's and repair manuals say to never crank an engine longer than 2 minutes at a time without allowing adequate time for the starter to cool before cranking it again. (If an engine won't start within 2 minutes of cranking, then it obviously needs a major tune-up or repair!)

High Torque Gear Starter Motors for Kohler Magnum engine models M8, M10, M12, M14 and M16 engines. 12 volt. All new starter motors are high torque nowadays. They have 20% more wire windings than the early OEM Kohler starter, giving it 20% more cranking power. Draws less amps; a smaller battery can be used. Cranks engine about twice as fast and draws less amps than an ordinary starter. Length: 7-1/4"; mounting studs: two 1/4"-20; o.d. housing: 3-1/16"; center to center mount: 2-1/2"'. But with a broken compression release, a direct-drive high torque starter may not be able to crank the engine. It'll be best to adjust the valve clearances, repair the compression release mechanism or replace the cam with a working compression release. FYI - The aftermarket starter motors I sell are the same as OEM Kohler starters. Kohler just place a big markup on theirs because it comes in a box with the Kohler name on it and the starter has the Kohler name stamped on it.
  • New high quality aftermarket starter. Comes with manufacturer's 100% unconditional limited one year warranty. Replaces Kohler part # 41 098 06-S. $51.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • New OEM Kohler starter. Comes with a limited 90 day warranty against defects in materials or workmanship. OEM Kohler part # 41 098 06-S. $191.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

IMPORTANT! Most quality-made starter motors are designed to last the life of the engine. Therefore, if a good starter burns up prematurely, then this means that it has cranked the engine for too long at one time. All starters are actually 6 volt motors operating on 12 volts. This is what gives them so much torque to crank the engine so fast and with ease. So if a starter motor is spun too long (longer than 2 minutes), the excess voltage will burn up the wire windings in the starter. The longer it's spun, the hotter it will get, which causes the windings to get very hot, which causes the insulating/separating varnish coating on the windings to melt. When the coating melts, the windings make contact with each other and become shorted out, and you have a burned up starter on your hands. That's why most owner's and repair manuals say to never crank an engine longer than 2 minutes at a time without allowing adequate time for the starter to cool before cranking it again. (If an engine won't start within 2 minutes of cranking, then it obviously needs a major tune-up or repair!)

High Torque Gear Starter Motors for Kohler opposed twin engine models MV16, KT17, KT17 series 2, KT19, KT19 series 2, KT21, M18, MV18, MV20 and M20. 12 volt. Same as starter below Ê, except has wire terminal connection on side of housing. All new starter motors are high torque nowadays. They have 20% more wire windings than the early OEM Kohler starter, giving it 20% more cranking power. Draws less amps; a smaller battery can be used. Cranks engine about twice as fast and draws less amps than an ordinary starter. Due to their low compression, the Kohler opposed twin cylinder engines do not have a compression release, nor do they need one. FYI - The aftermarket starter motors I sell are the same as OEM Kohler starters. Kohler just place a big markup on theirs because it comes in a box with the Kohler name on it and the starter has the Kohler name stamped on it.

Starter with Terminal Positioned on Side of Housing. (Most common.)

  • New high quality aftermarket starter. Comes with manufacturer's 100% unconditional limited one year warranty. Replaces Kohler part # 52 098 12-S. $50.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • New OEM Kohler starter. Comes with a limited 90 day warranty against defects in materials or workmanship. OEM Kohler part # 52 098 12-S. $225.45 each, plus shipping & handling.

Starter with Terminal Positioned on End of Housing.

  • New high quality aftermarket starter. Comes with manufacturer's 100% unconditional limited one year warranty. Replaces Kohler part # 52 098 13-S. $57.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • New OEM Kohler starter. Comes with a limited 90 day warranty against defects in materials or workmanship. OEM Kohler part # 52 098 13-S. $198.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

IMPORTANT! Most quality-made starter motors are designed to last the life of the engine. Therefore, if a good starter burns up prematurely, then this means that it has cranked the engine for too long at one time. All starters are actually 6 volt motors operating on 12 volts. This is what gives them so much torque to crank the engine so fast and with ease. So if a starter motor is spun too long (longer than 2 minutes), the excess voltage will burn up the wire windings in the starter. The longer it's spun, the hotter it will get, which causes the windings to get very hot, which causes the insulating/separating varnish coating on the windings to melt. When the coating melts, the windings make contact with each other and become shorted out, and you have a burned up starter on your hands. That's why most owner's and repair manuals say to never crank an engine longer than 2 minutes at a time without allowing adequate time for the starter to cool before cranking it again. (If an engine won't start within 2 minutes of cranking, then it obviously needs a major tune-up or repair!)

High Torque Gear Starter Motors for Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582. NOTES: (1) Additional 6.6mm unthreaded hole in additional DE mounting position, (1) 5.9mm unthreaded hole in CE frame, 1/4-20 threaded battery terminal, 128.2mm magnetic field case length, rubber skirt drive. 12 volt. All new starter motors are high torque nowadays. They have 20% more wire windings than the early OEM Kohler starter, giving it 20% more cranking power. Draws less amps; a smaller battery can be used. Cranks engine about twice as fast and draws less amps than an ordinary starter. But with a broken compression release, a direct-drive high torque starter may not be able to crank the engine. It'll be best to adjust the valve clearances, repair the compression release mechanism or replace the cam with a working compression release. FYI - The aftermarket starter motors I sell are the same as OEM Kohler starters. Kohler just place a big markup on theirs because it comes in a box with the Kohler name on it and the starter has the Kohler name stamped on it.
  • New high quality aftermarket starter. Comes with manufacturer's 100% unconditional limited one year warranty. Replaces Kohler part # 48 098 04-S. $60.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • New OEM Kohler starter. Comes with a limited 90 day warranty against defects in materials or workmanship. OEM Kohler part # 48 098 04-S. $223.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

IMPORTANT! Most quality-made starter motors are designed to last the life of the engine. Therefore, if a good starter burns up prematurely, then this means that it has cranked the engine for too long at one time. All starters are actually 6 volt motors operating on 12 volts. This is what gives them so much torque to crank the engine so fast and with ease. So if a starter motor is spun too long (longer than 2 minutes), the excess voltage will burn up the wire windings in the starter. The longer it's spun, the hotter it will get, which causes the windings to get very hot, which causes the insulating/separating varnish coating on the windings to melt. When the coating melts, the windings make contact with each other and become shorted out, and you have a burned up starter on your hands. That's why most owner's and repair manuals say to never crank an engine longer than 2 minutes at a time without allowing adequate time for the starter to cool before cranking it again. (If an engine won't start within 2 minutes of cranking, then it obviously needs a major tune-up or repair!)

High Torque 12 Volt Gear Starter Motors with Solenoid Shift. Fits Kohler V-twin engine models CH25, CH620, CH621, CH640, CH641, CH670, CH680, CH682, CH730, CH732, CH735, CH740, CH742, CH745, CH750, CH752, CH940, CH960, CH980, CH1000, CV620, CV640, CV670, CV680, CV682, CV730, CV730, CV732, CV740, CV742, CV745, CV750, CV752, CV940, CV960, CV980, CV1000, ECH630, ECH650, ECH680, ECH730, ECH740, ECH749, ECH940, ECH980, ECV630, ECV650, ECV680, ECV730, ECV740, ECV749, ECV850, ECV860, ECV870, ECV880, ECV940, ECV980, ELH775, EZT715, EZT725, EZT740, EZT750, FCV740, KT715, LH630, LH640, LH685, LH690, LH750, LH755, LH775, LV680, PCH680, PCH740, PCV680, PCV740, PCV850, PCV860, ZT710, ZT720, ZT730 and ZT740. NOTES: 10-tooth drive starter. All new starter motors are high torque nowadays. They have 20% more wire windings than the early OEM Kohler starter, giving it 20% more cranking power. Draws less amps; a smaller battery can be used. Cranks engine about twice as fast and draws less amps than an ordinary starter. But with a broken compression release, a direct-drive high torque starter may not be able to crank the engine. It'll be best to adjust the valve clearances, repair the compression release mechanism or replace the cam with a working compression release. FYI - The aftermarket starter motors I sell are the same as OEM Kohler starters. Kohler just place a big markup on theirs because it comes in a box with the Kohler name on it and the starter has the Kohler name stamped on it.
  • New high quality aftermarket starter. Comes with manufacturer's 100% unconditional limited one year warranty. Replaces Nippondenso and United Technology starters w/ 9-tooth drive (Lester 17628). Kohler part #'s 25 098 11-S, 25 098 21-S; Delco 10455513; John Deere AM108390; Nippondenso 128000-748, 228000-264, UT SM51747; Lester: 17628. $80.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • New OEM Kohler starter. Comes with a limited 90 day warranty against defects in materials or workmanship. OEM Kohler part # 25 098 11-S, 25 098 21-S. $232.15 each, plus shipping & handling.

IMPORTANT! Most quality-made starter motors are designed to last the life of the engine. Therefore, if a good starter burns up prematurely, then this means that it has cranked the engine for too long at one time. All starters are actually 6 volt motors operating on 12 volts. This is what gives them so much torque to crank the engine so fast and with ease. So if a starter motor is spun too long (longer than 2 minutes), the excess voltage will burn up the wire windings in the starter. The longer it's spun, the hotter it will get, which causes the windings to get very hot, which causes the insulating/separating varnish coating on the windings to melt. When the coating melts, the windings make contact with each other and become shorted out, and you have a burned up starter on your hands. That's why most owner's and repair manuals say to never crank an engine longer than 2 minutes at a time without allowing adequate time for the starter to cool before cranking it again. (If an engine won't start within 2 minutes of cranking, then it obviously needs a major tune-up or repair!)

High Torque Gear Starter Motor for Briggs & Stratton 14, 16, 18 and 20hp Opposed (Flathead) Twin Cylinder Engines. 12 volt. All new starter motors are high torque nowadays. They have 15% more wire windings than the short version starter, giving it 15% more cranking power. Draws less amps; a smaller battery can be used. Cranks engine about twice as fast and draws less amps than an ordinary starter. FYI - The aftermarket starter motors I sell are the same as OEM Briggs & Stratton starters. Briggs just place a big markup on theirs because it comes in a box with their name on it and the starter has the Briggs & Stratton logo stamped on it.
  • New high quality aftermarket starter. Comes with manufacturer's 100% unconditional limited one year warranty. Replaces Briggs & Stratton part #'s 399928, 495100, 498148. $30.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

IMPORTANT! Most quality-made starter motors are designed to last the life of the engine. Therefore, if a good starter burns up prematurely, then this means that it has cranked the engine for too long at one time. All starters are actually 6 volt motors operating on 12 volts. This is what gives them so much torque to crank the engine so fast and with ease. So if a starter motor is spun too long (longer than 2 minutes), the excess voltage will burn up the wire windings in the starter. The longer it's spun, the hotter it will get, which causes the windings to get very hot, which causes the insulating/separating varnish coating on the windings to melt. When the coating melts, the windings make contact with each other and become shorted out, and you have a burned up starter on your hands. That's why most owner's and repair manuals say to never crank an engine longer than 2 minutes at a time without allowing adequate time for the starter to cool before cranking it again. (If an engine won't start within 2 minutes of cranking, then it obviously needs a major tune-up or repair!)

Amp Gauges - Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any of these parts or services. | [Top of Page]
Universal Analog 10 Amp and 20 Amp Ammeter / Amp Gauge Kits. Gauges registers up to 10 or 20 amps of charge, depending on total output amperage of stator or alternator. Install these gauges to know exactly what the charging system on your engine is doing. Having an ammeter/amp gauge installed is very important in monitoring the charging system to prevent premature failure of electrical components. By the time you smell something burning or see smoke, it may be too late. If the charging system continues to charge on the plus (+) side with no gradual moving back of the needle to zero on the gauge (if installed) while the engine is running at full governored speed, this will send too much voltage to the battery, which could eventually burn up the cells in the battery, or burn up the primary windings in the ignition coil. Overcharging of the electrical system could also burn up the electronic ignition control module/unit (crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger), burn out light bulbs, electric PTO clutch or any other electrical accessories. As battery becomes fully charged, needle slowly moves from positive side (+) to zero (0). Needle will stay on negative side (–) if no charge goes to the battery. Or gauge will not show any charge at all if charging system is not working. Easy 2-wire connections. Connect the positive (+) terminal on back of gauge to the battery positive (+) post, and connect the negative (–) terminal on back of gauge to the wire going to the ignition switch that provides power to everything. If the wires/connections are reversed, and if the charging system is in good working condition, the gauge will show discharge (–) instead of charge (+). Use minimum 12 gauge stranded wire. Non-lighted gauges. Each requires 2" diameter mounting hole and comes with mounting clamp and nuts. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]
  • 10 Amp Ammeter / Amp Gauge Kit. $20.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 20 Amp Ammeter / Amp Gauge Kit. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # 48 755 18-S; Replaces Cub Cadet part # 925-3141. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Voltage Regulator, Voltage Rectifier/Regulators and Diodes - Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any of these parts or services. | [Top of Page]
New 12 volt, 15 Amp Analog Voltage Regulator for Starter/Generators. If the charging system continues to charge with no gradual moving back of the needle to zero on an analog ammeter/amp gauge (if installed) while the engine is running, this will put too much voltage through the coil, eventually burning out the primary windings. Overcharging of the charging system could also burn up the electronic ignition control module (crank trigger), burn up the battery, burn out light bulbs, electric PTO clutch and any other electrical accessories. With the terminals facing you, they read: L (Lights) | Bat (Battery) | F (Field), with A (Armature) on the bottom. L connects to the Lights (if equipped); Bat connects to the ignition switch, which connects to the positive (+) post on the battery; F connects to the Field terminal on the starter/generator; and Armature connects to the Armature terminal on the starter/generator. The frame of the regulator must be securely grounded to the tractor or equipment through the mounting bolts. NOTE: Cannot be substituted for use with the alternator/stator charging system.
  • High quality aftermarket. Replaces: Briggs & Stratton 295924; Delco 1118988; Gravely 7275; Jacobsen 107927; John Deere AM30078, AM11855; Tecumseh 32089. $42.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Briggs & Stratton 295924. $98.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Two Wire Rectifier Diodes. The 3- and 4-amp diodes can be used in a non-regulated small engine stator alternator 12 volt charging system to convert alternating current (AC) to direct current (DC) for recharging the battery and/or to power low-amperage DC electrical accessories, such as LED lights, small electric motors, etc. Do not overload the amperage of the diode or it may burn up. The 1 amp diode can be used to energize or excite the field windings in a belt-driven automotive alternator or a direct-drive 120/240 volt AC portable generator when powered by a small engine so alternator/generator will produce electricity as soon as engine starts and to prevent from shorting out ignition components. A diode is not required for filament light bulbs and/or an electric PTO clutch.
  • 1 Amp/12 Volt Rectifier Diode. $1.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 3 Amp/12 Volt Rectifier Diode. High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part #'s 25 755 31-S and 51 755 01-S. Used on certain Kohler engine models K181, K301, K321, K341, M10, M14, CV14, CV14, CV15 and ECH749. $2.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 3 Amp/12 Volt Rectifier Diode Kit. OEM Kohler part #'s 25 755 31-S and 51 755 01-S. $13.60 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 4 Amp/12 Volt Rectifier Diode. Briggs & Stratton part # 393814. $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

FYI - Briggs & Stratton engines have either one or two OEM alternator stators and they are joined together in two half circles under the flywheel. Some engines only come with one half stator. Each half produce 3 amps of power & 14 volts @ 3,600 RPM. If an engine comes with two stators joined together, one half produces AC, which is used to power the lights and electric PTO clutch. And the other half also produce AC, but is connected to a minimum 3 amp/14 volt diode, which is used to only recharge the battery. Under normal yard use, 3 amps is not enough to overcharge and burn up the battery. If both stator halves are wired together from the factory (as they are on certain engines), they will produce 6 amps of AC power and a 6 amp solid state electronic voltage rectifier/regulator is used to power the lights, electric PTO clutch and recharge the battery.

Brass Slide-On Spade Wire Connector with Locking Tab/Tang. Replace damaged or broken OEM spade wire connector in plastic connector housings used on most Off/Ignition/Start key switches, voltage rectifier/regulators, etc. To remove old connector from plastic housing, depress locking tab/tang from opposite the wire end with a small flat screwdriver. Solder or use terminal crimping pliers to install on wire. Slide new connector into plastic housing in the correct position unto it locks in place. Never was available from Kohler.
  • $1.40 each, plus shipping & handling.
15/20 Amp 12 Volt Solid State Electronic Voltage Rectifier/Regulators. If the charging system continues to charge with no gradual moving back of the needle to zero on an analog ammeter/amp gauge (if installed) while the engine is running, this will put too much voltage through the coil, eventually burning out the primary windings. Overcharging of the charging system could also burn up the electronic ignition control module (crank trigger), burn up the battery, burn out light bulbs, electric PTO clutch and any other electrical accessories. Each small and compact and have same mounting holes, and fit many 8 thru 24hp Kohler engine models with a 15 amp output alternator charging stator under the flywheel. Each mounts in the rectangular hole in the flywheel shroud with fins facing the flywheel for better cooling of unit. Terminals: "Three in a row" (AC - BAT+ - AC). NOTE: The solid state electronic voltage rectifier/regulators shown works the same. The orientation of the terminals are for various applications. Also, the small size voltage rectifier/regulator is to be mounted in the opening of the flywheel shroud so cool incoming air from the flywheel will keep the regulator unit from overheating while in operation. If it's mounted elsewhere with no cool air blowing over it, it could burn up prematurely. And these cannot be substituted for use with the starter/generator charging system.
  • Rectifier/Regulator with terminals extended from body. (Most commonly used.) High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 25 755 03-S. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Rectifier/Regulator with terminals extended from body. (Most commonly used.) OEM Kohler part # 25 755 03-S. $63.30 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Rectifier/Regulator with terminals under body. High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 41 403 10-S. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Rectifier/Regulator with terminals under body. OEM Kohler part # 41 403 10-S. $74.15 each, plus shipping & handling.
15/20 Amp 12 Volt Solid State Electronic Voltage Rectifier/Regulators. Each have same mounting holes and fit many 8 thru 24hp Kohler engines with a 15 amp output alternator charging stator under the flywheel. NOTE: If charging system continues to charge with no gradual moving back of the needle to zero on the ammeter/amp gauge (if installed) while the engine is running, this will put too much voltage through the coil, eventually burning out the primary windings. Overcharging of the charging system could also burn up the electronic ignition control module (crank trigger), burn up the battery, burn out light bulbs, electric PTO clutch and any other electrical accessories. NOTE: Cannot be substituted for use with the starter/generator charging system.
  • Compact, new style w/o fins. High quality aftermarket. Terminals: "Three in a row" (AC | BAT+ | AC). Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part # 41 403 05-S. $66.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Compact, new style w/o fins. Terminals: "Two over (AC - AC), one under (BAT+)."
    • High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 41 403 08-S. $50.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • OEM Kohler part # 41 403 08-S. $533.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Compact, new style w/o fins. Terminals: "Two over (AC - AC), one under (BAT+)." Same mounting hole spacing as below.
    • High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 25 403 22-S. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • OEM Kohler part # 25 403 22-S. $146.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Large, old style w/fins. High quality aftermarket. Terminals: "Two over (AC - AC), one under (BAT+)." Same mounting hole spacing as above. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part #'s 237335, 41 403 06-S. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Generating/Charging Stators and Internal Flywheel Charging Magnets - Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any of these parts or services. | [Top of Page]
15/20 Amp Stator for 12 volt alternator charging systems. Use with either 15-20 amp solid state electronic voltage rectifier/regulator above È to power electrical accessories while recharging battery, or power electrical accessories without a battery. Fits most aluminum and cast iron block single and opposed (flathead) twin cylinder Kohler engine models K141, K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, KT17/KT17 Series II, KT19/KT19 Series II, KT21, M8-M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20, K482, K532, K582, CH1000, CH11-CH26, CH430, CH450, CH620-CH682, CH730-CH752, CH940, CH980, CV1000, CV11-CV25, CV430-CV493, CV620-CV682, CV725, CV730-CV940, CV960, CV980, ECV630-ECV680, ECV730-ECV749, ECV630-ECV680, ECV730-ECV749, ECV850-ECV880, ECV940, ECV980, FCV740, KT610, KT620, KT715-KT745, LH430, LH640-LH690, LH750, LH755, LV625-LV680, PCH680, PCH740, PCV680, PCV740, PCV850, PCV860, SV470-SV480, SV530-SV590, SV600-SV620, SV710-SV740, SV810-SV840, TH16, TH18, TH575, ZT710-ZT740, except various early John Deere with a single cylinder Kohler engine with the 4-1/4"± charging stator. Use with flywheel having six internal magnets, which will produce 15-20 amps at 3,600 RPM. If used with a flywheel having factory-installed three magnets spaced equally apart (rare), stator will only produce 7.5 amps at 3,600 RPM. Dimensions: 2-3/4" i.d. x 5-1/2" o.d. OEM Kohler part # 237878-S. NOTE: The 2-3/4" i.d. x 5-1/2" o.d. 15 amp stator (part # 237879-S) for Kohler's Breakerless Ignition is no longer available.
  • Used, tested and in excellent condition. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • New. $74.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Internal Flywheel Magnets for Alternator Charging Systems. Fits aluminum and cast iron block single and twin cylinder Kohler engine models K141, K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, M8, M10, M12, M14, M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20, K482, K532, K582, CH1000, CH11-CH26, CH430, CH450, CH620-CH682, CH730-CH752, CH940, CH980, CV1000, CV11-CV25, CV430-CV493, CV620-CV682, CV725, CV730-CV940, CV960, CV980, ECV630-ECV680, ECV730-ECV749, ECV630-ECV680, ECV730-ECV749, ECV850-ECV880, ECV940, ECV980, FCV740, KT610, KT620, KT715-KT745, LH430, LH640-LH690, LH750, LH755, LV625-LV680, PCH680, PCH740, PCV680, PCV740, PCV850, PCV860, SV470-SV480, SV530-SV590, SV600-SV620, SV710-SV740, SV810-SV840, TH16, TH18, TH575, ZT710-ZT740, except various early John Deere with a single cylinder Kohler engine with the 4-1/4"± charging stator, and larger Tecumseh engines with an alternator charging system having the 5-1/2" diameter stator. Magnet(s) may come in 3/4" or 7/8" height, but will work the same. Comes with magnetic poles identified. Not available separate from Kohler or Tecumseh. All magnets are used and in excellent condition.
  • Single Magnet. Comes with magnetic poles identified and marked. IMPORTANT - Before ordering individual magnet(s), please indicate if you need a magnet with North-South-North, or South-North-South magnetic pole positions on the inside curve. Scroll up or Click or tap here to learn how to identify the magnetic pole positions. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
  • Set of Six Matching Magnets. Comes with magnetic poles identified and marked. $60.00 per set, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
10 Amp 12 Volt Solid State Electronic Voltage Rectifier/Regulator for 4-5/8" diameter 10 amp charging stator below Ê. Terminals: "Three in a row" (AC | BAT+ | AC). NOTE: Cannot be substituted for use with the starter/generator charging system.
  • High quality aftermarket. Replaces Briggs and Stratton # 390240, Gravely # 011979, John Deere # AM102596, Kohler #'s 234279, 41 403 08-S, Phelon # FG4720, Tecumseh # 610749. $68.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 41 403 08-S. $559.65 each, plus shipping & handling.

FYI: After several years of use an for reasons unknown (even to me), the 10 amp charging system is notorious for generating very few amps, about 3 amps more or less maximum at full governed engine speed, and I have no idea why. I think this is why the 10 amp stator system was a short-lived item from Kohler and it was replaced with the much more reliable 15/20 amp stator system, which is still in use today.

10 Amp Stator for 12 volt alternator charging systems. To be used with battery ignition only. This will not work with Tecumseh Solid State or Kohler Breakerless Ignition Systems. Requires a special flywheel (part # A-236864) with the charging magnets embedded on an aluminum casing. Use with 10 amp solid state electronic voltage rectifier/regulator above È. Can be used to power electrical accessories while recharging battery, or power electrical accessories without a battery. Fits only John Deere garden tractors with a Tecumseh cast iron block engine or Kohler engine models K241 w/specification #'s 46593 and 46608; K301 w/specification #'s 47148, 47175, 47399 and 47419; K321 w/specification #'s 60102, 60118, 60136 and 60136A. Dimensions: 2-3/4" i.d. x 4-5/8" o.d. x 2-1/4" bolt pattern. Discontinued from Kohler. OEM Kohler part # 237065-S; John Deere part #'s AM32073, AM32334 (w/o solid state ignition); replaces Tecumseh part # 610761A (w/o solid state ignition). Not available in aftermarket. L
  • Used, tested and in excellent condition. $100.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
10 Amp Stator with Integrated Tecumseh Solid State or Kohler Breakerless Ignition Energizer Coil. To be used with a Kohler or Tecumseh flywheel designed for a John Deere garden tractor. Use with 10 amp solid state electronic voltage rectifier/regulator above È. Stator can be used to power electrical accessories while recharging battery, or power electrical accessories without a battery. Fits John Deere garden tractors with a cast iron block Tecumseh engine model VH80, VH100, HH80, HH100, HH120, OH140, OH150, OH160 and OH180 with solid state ignition, and used on Kohler engine models K241 w/specification #'s 46593 and 46608; K301 w/specification #'s 47148, 47175, 47399 and 47419; K321 w/specification #'s 60102, 60118, 60136 and 60136A with Breakerless Ignition. Dimensions: 2-3/4" i.d. x 4-5/8" o.d. x 2-1/4" bolt pattern. OEM Tecumseh part # 610761A; OEM Kohler part # 2377870-S, John Deere part # AM31738. Not available in aftermarket. L IMPORTANT: The wire that comes from the stator under the flywheel for the Kohler Trigger Module or Tecumseh Solid State Ignition Module generates about 250 volts (serious) while the engine is running at full governored speed. Do not touch this wire (terminal) with one bare hand and the engine itself with your other hand while the engine is running! It is not needed for any of my crank-trigger or flywheel-trigger electronic ignition systems. So snip off this wire or tape up the terminal to prevent a short circuit or electrocution.
  • Used, tested and in excellent condition. $125.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
Recoil Starter Cups w/internal notches, 5/8" hole, and with or without screen for Kohler engine models K141, K161 and K181.
  • Stamped Steel Cup w/o screen. OEM Kohler part # 41 071 06-S. $38.95 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Stamped Steel Cup w/screen. OEM Kohler part # 41 071 07-S. $30.30 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Cast Aluminum Cup w/screen. OEM Kohler part # 41 071 08-S. $57.80 each, plus shipping & handling.

Recoil Starter Cup w/internal notches, 5/8" hole and without screen for Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321 and K341. OEM Kohler part # 235685-S.

  • $55.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


A-1 Miller's Computerized Stuska Water Brake Engine Dynamometer (Dyno) Service with DPM Data Logger Software to Test Horsepower and Torque! | [Top of Page]

For performance testing of 10-16hp single cylinder Kohler stock or competition pulling engines at speeds up to 12,000 RPM. The only dyno service for testing Kohler pulling engines in central Missouri. Two uncontaminated fuel tanks with an electric fuel pump - one for gas and another for methanol. Fully operational and 100% accurate, customers can rent dyno time, fine tune and make adjustments or changes to their engines to gain maximum horsepower and torque, and print-out the results so their tractor(s) will be truly competitive on the track. With an engine dyno, the puller can adjust their engine to get maximum horsepower and torque, and gear their tractor appropriately to have an advantage over the competition. NOTE: A fresh-built engine may not produce full power until it's broke-in. This is when the valves wear-in with the seats to completely seal in the compression. The rings will likely hold the compression, but the valves may leak slightly until they wear into the seats. This is normal for all engines and may take several hours or pulls to happen, then the valves will be able to hold full compression. Lots of pullers tell A-1 Miller's after I've built their engines that it seems to pull stronger every time they pull it.

Engine Dyno Rental Fee: $50.00 per hour run time from the moment the engine is started. No setup fee for Cub Cadet engines with a 3- or 6-pin/stud clutch driver. An adapter may need to be needed or fabricated for other makes and models of engines. Only engines with the narrow base oil pan can be tested. Engines with the wide base (tall) oil pan cannot be tested at this time. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]


Coming Soon - Detailed Illustrated Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back and Self-Propelled Garden Tractor Pulling Sled. FYI - The professionally-built self-propelled pulling sled is the only one I've ever built (click the picture to the right to see a larger image of this sled), and I got it right the first time, with very few changes or modifications that had to be made to it. I guess I'm just one of those kind of guys that knows what he's doing. Pullers really like pulling our sled, too. They say it's the best sled they've ever pulled. (Not bragging, just stating a fact.) By the way - Track Master sled is engineered so well (by Brian Miller), that other sled builders/owners have copied our well thought-out and proven design. Anyway, I have lots of work to do in my shop and I work on the sled plans in my spare time. As soon as my plans with an inventory list of parts to use are perfected, I'll post the update in my websites with the prices of the plans. Remember - Perfection takes time. If it's worth having, it's worth waiting for. Also, I plan to acquire a bigger shop and may build high quality garden tractor pulling sleds in the future to offer for sale. Please call A-1 Miller's at 573-256-0313 (shop) or 573-881-7229 (cell; text or voice message), or email A-1 Miller's at pullingtractor@aol.com if interested. - Brian Miller


If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance and support, please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle, tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.) [Return To Previous Paragraph, Section or Website]

We Ship to Canada and Worldwide -
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S. territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground or equivalent services. We try to keep our shipping cost to customers within reason. Therefore, we don't ship our products in a fancy-looking package with our company name and/or logo on it because most customers will just toss it in the trash after they remove the contents.


We Accept PayPal, Visa, MasterCard, American Express & Discover Credit & Debit Cards
(When placing an order through PayPal, please provide a list of which parts you need.)

To make a payment to A-1 Miller's through PayPal, go to PayPal's secure website ( https://www.paypal.com/ ) and click on Send and Request -> Pay for goods or services. Type in my email address, or copy and paste this: pullingtractor@aol.com, the amount and follow the directions. Be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment is for. After you've finished, PayPal will send A-1 Miller's an email notifying me that you have made a payment to A-1 Miller's for the product(s) or services and amount entered. Then I go to their website and direct PayPal to deposit the money in my bank account. And I will send the parts to you as soon as I receive your payment. But I may have to order some of the parts if they're not in stock, which should take a few days. In that case, I will send you the parts as soon as they come in. PayPal protects your financial privacy and security. With PayPal, privacy is built in. It's a way for you to pay without exposing their financial information.