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 High Quality
Inductive Handheld Small Engine Wireless Tachometer. A tachometer is
required in setting the correct RPMs (normally 3,200 or 3,600 maximum for
small engines) of an engine to prevent from over-revving and possible damage
to the engine or dangerous flywheel explosion. Works with magneto and
battery-powered ignition systems. Very accurate. For gas/spark ignite engines
only. Works with magneto and battery-powered ignition systems. This handheld
analog tachometer works great for checking/setting the RPM on various small
engines in the shop, and/or for checking/setting the RPM [tech] on stock
governed competition pulling engines. Hold sensor (antenna) close to spark
plug wire for reading. Operates off a self-contained replaceable 9 volt battery.
Has built-in battery voltage check. Reads up to 5,000 RPM on the low scale,
and 15,000 RPM on the high scale.
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 High Quality Inductive
Small Engine Tachometer/Hour Meter. A tachometer is required in setting
the correct RPMs (normally 3,200 or 3,600 maximum for small engines) of an
engine to prevent over-revving and possible damage to the engine or dangerous
flywheel explosion. Very accurate. Can be hand-held to temporarily set engine
RPM or can be surface-mounted and secured with two screws to monitor engine
RPM at all times. Large 3/8 inch LCD display. Works with all spark ignition
engines by selecting engine type using S1 and S2 buttons. Works with magneto
and battery-powered ignition systems. If tachometer does not turn on
automatically as soon as engine starts, press and hold the two buttons at
the same time. Instructions included. Tachometer reads up to 99,999 RPM.
Hour meter reads up to 9999:59 hours/minutes then resets to Zero. Programmable
maintenance hour setting with service icon, a reminder when to change oil
or other service. Can be manually reset to Zero hours. Programmable maintenance
hour setting with service icon, a reminder when to change oil or other service.
Easy installation: Single wire wraps around spark plug wire and secured with
two supplied nylon zip-ties. No wire terminal connections required. Dimensions:
2" wide x 1-3/4" depth x 3/4" height.
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 High Quality
Digital Tachometer/Proximity Sensor Kits. A tachometer is required in
setting the correct RPMs (normally 3,200 or 3,600 maximum for small engines)
of an engine to prevent from over-revving and possible damage to the engine
or dangerous flywheel explosion. Choice of a
RED or
BLUE numeric display. Will work with
single- or twin-cylinder small engines or multi-cylinder automotive engines,
gas or diesel. The great thing about this type of tachometer is it needs
no setup. It displays accurate RPMs as soon as the engine cranks over to
start. Displays up to 9,999 RPM. Very accurate. Tachometer returns to zero
[0000] when engine is shut down. Operates totally independent of the ignition
system. Can be used for lawn & garden equipment or competition pulling
engines. Designed to be permanently mounted to monitor engine RPM at all
times. Tachometer can be in-dash or panel-mounted. This precision digital
tachometer operates with external power and on the same principle as my
flywheel- or
crank-trigger ignition systems with a proximity sensor to detect the
target, which can be a small ferrous steel screw or pin, or magnet in a rotating
disc on the crankshaft or on/in flywheel. A sturdy steel or aluminum bracket
will need to be fabricated by customer to mount the sensor in close proximity
of the detector/trigger target. Set air gap/clearance at .010"-.188". Tachometer
works with 8-24 volts DC, proximity sensor works with 6-36 volts DC. Dimensions
for mounting hole for tachometer: 3" wide x 1-17/32" wide. Tachometer measures
1" in depth. Dimensions of proximity sensor: 15/32" diameter x 1-3/8" thread
length. Wiring Instructions: #1 wire on tachometer connects to brown wire
on proximity sensor and ignition switch (12 volt power), #2 wire on tachometer
connects to blue wire on proximity sensor and engine/chassis ground (battery
negative (–) post), and #5 wire on tachometer connects to black wire
on (either) proximity sensor. Wires #3 and #4 connects to nothing. Wiring
is the same for the hall effect and inductive proximity sensors. Some proximity
sensors have an LED (Light Emitting Diode) on the rear of unit. If the proximity
sensor is wired incorrectly, the LED will illuminate within the target.
Click or tap here for YouTube videos to see how well this
tachometer works. Cannot be wired in conjunction with the Dynatek Dyna
S or PerTronix Ignitor ignition modules. This tachometer must be wired separately
or wiring can be incorporated with my crank-trigger ignition system that
use a proximity sensor.
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  Grounding-Type Safety Break-Away / Kill Switch with Pull-Pin.
Use for competition pulling only; mount on rear of tractor. When the pin
pulled, it grounds the ignition coil from producing spark. If using with
a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition systems: Connect
one wire to the chassis ground, and connect the other wire to the
points/condenser wire or to the kill terminal on the solid state ignition
coil/module. If using with a battery-powered ignition system: Connect one
wire to the chassis ground, and connect the other wire to the coil negative
(–) terminal. NOTE: With battery-powered ignition, as soon as pin
is pulled (engine will die), manually shut off ignition switch right away
to prevent possible damage to the ignition coil and electronic ignition module
if equipped with crank trigger ignition. This type of switch does not
disable power to the
electric fuel pump on a pulling tractor. It must be
shut-off manually by the ignition switch or an OFF/ON toggle switch.
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Electric Engine Cooling Fan and Electrical Accessory Switches - Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the parts or items in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page]
  Superior Quality, High Velocity 12 Volt Engine Cooling Fan.
Use an electric fan to cool a competition garden tractor pulling engine with
a steel flywheel. Motor is 100% secured and reinforced in plastic fan housing
tube to withstand severe engine vibrations, and to prevent motor from loosening
and become inoperable due to normal engine vibrations when pulling. Modification
made by Brian Miller. No need to mount fan housing on rubber grommets; they
will serve no purpose whatsoever with this fan. Fasten fan housing on a sturdy
angle steel support brace with 1/4" bolts, lock washers and wide, flat washers
in front of engine or behind grille in a Cub Cadet garden tractor aimed at
the exhaust area of engine. Draws 2.6 amps, produces 145 CFM. Measures 3"
diameter and 5" length. IMPORTANT! Due to normal
engine vibrations, do not run fan while pulling because the brushes that
make contact with the commutator could break! If tuned correctly and the
carburetor air/fuel mixture is set correctly, the engine should not severely
overheat during the 2-3 minutes of pulling down the track. Turn fan on ONLY
between pull-offs or when tuning engine or adjusting
carburetor. $35.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
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   High Quality Universal
Self-Grounding OFF/ON Switches for use with Self-Energizing Magneto Ignition,
Solid State Ignition, OEM Solid State Ignition (SSI) for Tecumseh's Cast
Iron Block Engines, or with OEM Kohler Breakerless Ignition. These switches
can be used with virtually any small engine installed on lawn and garden
equipment, garden tillers, go-karts, chainsaws, portable air compressors,
portable generators/welders, portable water pumps, etc. with a recoil or
push-button starter switch to crank the engine. Very durable, tough switches.
Switches can be mounted in metal (grounded) pedestal, dashboard, instrument
panel, engine control panel, flywheel shroud, etc. Single blade on switch
connects to points wire or solid state electronic module wire/terminal to
kill the engine.
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 High Quality Universal OFF/ON Switches for Battery-Powered
Ignition Systems. Each can be mounted in dashboard, instrument panel, engine
control panel, etc. Very durable, tough switches. Can be used on virtually
anything that has a battery-powered ignition or electrical system, such as:
garden tractors, go-karts, pulling tractors, mini-rods, hot-rods, farm tractors,
automobiles, etc.
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 High
Quality Universal Push Button Switches. Each can be mounted in pedestal,
dashboard, instrument panel, engine control panel, flywheel shroud, etc.
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 High Quality Universal 3-Position OFF-IGNITION-START Key
Switch for use with Self-Energizing Magneto Ignition, Solid State
Ignition, OEM Solid State Ignition (SSI) for Tecumseh's Cast Iron Block Engines,
or with OEM Kohler Breakerless Ignition. Can be used for various makes
and models of riding mowers, lawn & garden tractors, garden tractors
and various small engine equipment with magneto or solid state ignition.
Identification of 5 blade terminals: B = Battery (+); G = Ground
(terminal is grounded to body of switch); L = Lights (use a separate
OFF-ON switch connected to this terminal to power an electric PTO clutch);
M = Magneto (Ignition); S = Solenoid (small terminal). Key
positions: OFF position makes contact with M+G; IGNITION position makes contact
with B+L; START position makes contact with B+S. Each terminal identified
for correct wiring connections. IMPORTANT: Use with a starter solenoid/relay
to crank the engine to prevent burning out internal contacts in switch. NOTE:
If engine is equipped with an alternator/stator charging system, the center
terminal on the voltage rectifier/regulator connects to the battery (+) terminal.
If using an ammeter/amp gauge, connect the gauge/meter to the battery positive
(+) post, then to the B terminal on the switch. Trace the wires on your
tractor/equipment to see if they match the terminals on this switch. If they
don't match, the plug-in spade connectors/wires can be rearranged in the
plastic connector housing to match the corresponding terminals on the switch.
To do this, use a small flat blade screwdriver to depress the locking tab/tang
so the plug-in connector can be pulled out from the plastic connector housing.
Bend the locking tab/tang up slightly before reinserting it in the plastic
connector so it will be secured in place. Or use #250
slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals
when connecting wires to switch. Requires 5/8" diameter mounting hole.
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 High Quality Universal 3-Position OFF-IGNITION-START Key
Switch. Designed for use with Battery-Powered Points/Condenser Ignition
or Battery-Powered Flywheel/Crank-Trigger Aftermarket Replacement Electronic
Ignition. Can be used for various makes and models of garden tractors,
small engine equipment, mini rod pulling tractors and hot rods with
battery-powered ignition or flywheel/crank trigger ignition. Identification
of 5 blade terminals are: I = Ignition; A = Auxiliary (electrical
accessories, such as lights, electric PTO clutch, etc.); R = Rectifier;
B = Battery (+); S = Solenoid (small terminal). Key positions:
OFF position makes no contact with any of the other terminals; IGNITION position
makes contact with B+I+R+A; START position makes contact with B+I+R+S. Each
terminal identified for correct wiring connections. IMPORTANT: Must be used
with a starter solenoid to crank the engine to prevent burning out internal
contacts in switch. If using an ammeter/amp gauge, connect the gauge/meter
to the battery positive (+) post, then to the B terminal on the switch. Trace
the wires on your tractor/equipment to see if they match the terminals on
this switch. If they don't match, the plug-in spade connectors/wires can
be rearranged in the plastic connector housing to match the corresponding
terminals on the switch. To do this, use a small flat blade screwdriver to
depress the locking tab/tang so the plug-in connector can be pulled out from
the plastic connector housing. Bend the locking tab/tang up slightly before
reinserting it in the plastic connector so it will be secured in place. Or
use #250
slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals
when connecting wires to switch. Requires 9/16" diameter mounting hole.
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 Battery Ignition
3-Position OFF-IGNITION-START Rotary Key Switch. Fits IH-built Cub Cadet
garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108,
109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 154, 184, 185
and LO BOY. Universal applications; can also be used for various makes and
models of garden tractors, small engine equipment, mini rod pulling tractors
and hot rods with battery-powered ignition or flywheel/crank trigger ignition.
For universal applications, use with #250
slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors. Identification
of 3 blade terminals are: BAT = Battery Positive (+) Post; IGN
= Positive (+) Terminal on Ignition Coil ; ST = Starter Solenoid.
IMPORTANT: Must be used with a starter solenoid to crank engine to prevent
burning out internal contacts in switch. Unlike key switches listed above,
this switch comes with a serrated key.
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 Universal Wiring
Harness with Plastic Housing Connector. Fits universal OFF-IGNITION-START
rotary key switches listed above and other rotary key switches with same
terminal configuration. Three terminals will also fit the OEM Cub Cadet ignition
key switch. Replace damaged wiring and connector, use as new wiring harness
on a custom-made project, or use this part when converting from Breakerless
Ignition to battery-powered points/condenser ignition. 18" length color-coded
wires for easy identification. $13.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
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 OFF/ON
Main/Master Disconnect/Cutoff Switch with Removable Key. Use this 100
amp capacity switch to disable all power throughout the equipment to prevent
sabotage an/or an accidental electrical short that could burn up the wiring
system or entire equipment. Useful when equipment is not used for a period
of time to prevent a slow drain on the battery, prevent short circuits when
performing electrical service on equipment, or for a pulling tractor to prevent
accidental starts or to prevent sabotage at the pull sites by disgruntled
pullers. Connect between battery negative (–) post and equipment ground.
Copper terminals with brass hex nuts for improved continuity. Comes with
protective weather cap and two removable nylon key locks. Mounting hardware
not included. $19.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
[Return to previous paragraph, section
or website] |
Solenoids/Relays - Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the parts or items in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page]
 3 Terminal
Solenoid/Relay, 12 volt, plastic body, universal mount. Suitable for lawn
and garden equipment, and stock competition pulling engines. Prevents from
burning out a light-duty manual starter switch and eliminates need for a
heavy duty manual starter switch in a custom wiring circuit. Intermittent
duty. Use to temporarily activate any maximum 80 amp capacity electrical
accessory. If continually energized for long period of time, plastic body
may melt. Internally grounded through mounting base. Studs: 10-32 UNF, 1/4-20
UNC.. High quality aftermarket. Grounded mounting base. Wiring connections:
Small terminal connects to starter switch or momentary push button switch
to energize solenoid. One large terminal connects to battery positive (+)
post, and the other large terminal connects to starter motor, horn, kill
switch motor, etc.
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Starter Motors - Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the parts or items in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page]
 High Torque
Gear Starter Motors for Kohler engine models K141, K161 and K181 single cylinder
cast iron block Kohler engine. 12 volt, 16 tooth gear. All starter motors
are high torque nowadays. They have 20% more wire windings than the early
OEM Kohler starter, giving it 20% more cranking power. Draws less amps; a
smaller battery can be used. Cranks engine about twice as fast and draws
less amps than an ordinary starter.
But with a
broken compression release, a direct-drive high torque starter may not be
able to crank the engine. It'll be best to adjust the valve clearances, repair
the compression release mechanism or replace the cam with a working compression
release. FYI - The aftermarket starter motors I
sell are the same as OEM Kohler starters. Kohler just place a big markup
on theirs because it comes in a Kohler brand box and the starter has the
Kohler name stamped on it. Kohler part # 41 098 08-S.
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 Replacement Starter
Gear Kit for Kohler Engine Models K241-K361 with the High Torque Gear Starter
(below). Fits the newer upper and lower mount gear starters with the 10 tooth
gear. Will not fit the older low torque gear starters.
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 10 and 13 Tooth
Upper Mount (mounting bolts are below starter motor) High Torque Gear Starter
Motors for Kohler K-series engine models K241, K301, K321, K341 and K361.
12 volt. All new starter motors are high torque nowadays. They have 20% more
wire windings than the early OEM Kohler starter, giving it 20% more cranking
power. Cranks engine about twice as fast and draws less amps than an ordinary
starter. Therefore, a smaller battery can be used. In addition to the extra
windings, the 10 tooth starter gear gives this starter extra torque so it'll
crank the engine with less effort. The 10 tooth starter provides 13% more
cranking torque than the 13 tooth starter, and the 13 tooth starter cranks
the engine over 30% faster than the 10 tooth starter. The 13 tooth starter
is best to be used with working compression release.
But with a
broken compression release, a direct-drive high torque starter may not be
able to crank the engine. It'll be best to adjust the valve clearances, repair
the compression release mechanism or replace the cam with a working compression
release. FYI - The 10 tooth starter cannot be used
in place of the 13 tooth starter, but the 13 tooth starter can be used in
place of the 10 tooth starter by shimming/spacing the starter away from the
engine block with an ordinary flat washer on each mounting
bolt.
And the aftermarket starter motors I sell are the same as
OEM Kohler starters. Kohler just place a big markup on theirs because it
comes in a box with the Kohler name on it and the starter has the Kohler
name stamped on it.
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 The Ultimate High
Torque Gear Reduction Starter Motor and Bracket Assembly for Kohler 10, 12,
14, 16 and 18hp OHV Pulling Engines. This is an extremely powerful starter!
It will not hesitate to crank over a Kohler K-series single cylinder engine
with a high compression machined billet cylinder head without an automatic
compression release (ACR). Ideal for Hot-Stock, Stock-Altered, 30 c.i.,
37c.i./16hp Missouri Super-Stock and 50.5 c.i. Modified-Class single cylinder
competition pulling engines. This starter will also crank over an ordinary
lawn and garden Kohler engine with a non-working automatic compression release.
No need to use this starter on an engine with a working automatic compression
release. The starter gear will fit inside the OEM Kohler flywheel shroud.
It's a direct bolt-on with no adjustment necessary. Comes with a heavy duty
CNC-machined billet aluminum adapter/mounting bracket, which can be purchased
separately. Has built-in solenoid; no need for a separate solenoid. NOTES:
Best to use a
long reach hex bit (Allen) socket to fasten socket (Allen)
head bolts to engine block. And on certain starters, part of the engine block
next to the cylinder may need to be ground away about 1/8" for clearance
of the main battery cable terminal.
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 High Torque
Lower Mount (mounting bolts are above starter) Gear Starter Motors for Kohler
engine models K241, K301, K321, K341 and K361 engines. 12 volt. All new starter
motors are high torque nowadays. They have 20% more wire windings than the
early OEM Kohler starter, giving it 20% more cranking power. Draws less amps;
a smaller battery can be used. Cranks engine about twice as fast and draws
less amps than an ordinary starter. In addition to the extra windings, the
10 tooth starter gear gives this starter extra torque so it'll crank the
engine with less effort.
But with a
broken compression release, a direct-drive high torque starter may not be
able to crank the engine. It'll be best to adjust the valve clearances, repair
the compression release mechanism or replace the cam with a working compression
release. FYI - The aftermarket starter motors I
sell are the same as OEM Kohler starters. Kohler just place a big markup
on theirs because it comes in a box with the Kohler name on it and the starter
has the Kohler name stamped on it.
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 High Torque
Gear Starter Motors for Kohler Magnum engine models M8, M10, M12, M14 and
M16 engines. 12 volt. All new starter motors are high torque nowadays. They
have 20% more wire windings than the early OEM Kohler starter, giving it
20% more cranking power. Draws less amps; a smaller battery can be used.
Cranks engine about twice as fast and draws less amps than an ordinary starter.
Length: 7-1/4"; mounting studs: two 1/4"-20; O.D. housing: 3-1/16"; center
to center mount: 2-1/2"'.
But with a
broken compression release, a direct-drive high torque starter may not be
able to crank the engine. It'll be best to adjust the valve clearances, repair
the compression release mechanism or replace the cam with a working compression
release. FYI - The aftermarket starter motors I
sell are the same as OEM Kohler starters. Kohler just place a big markup
on theirs because it comes in a box with the Kohler name on it and the starter
has the Kohler name stamped on it.
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 High Torque
Gear Starter Motors for Kohler opposed twin engine models MV16, KT17, KT17
series 2, KT19, KT19 series 2, KT21, M18, MV18, MV20 and M20. 12 volt. Same
as starter below Ê, except has wire terminal
connection on side of housing. All new starter motors are high torque nowadays.
They have 20% more wire windings than the early OEM Kohler starter, giving
it 20% more cranking power. Draws less amps; a smaller battery can be used.
Cranks engine about twice as fast and draws less amps than an ordinary starter.
Due to their low compression, the Kohler opposed twin cylinder engines do
not have a compression release, nor do they need one. FYI - The aftermarket
starter motors I sell are the same as OEM Kohler starters. Kohler just place
a big markup on theirs because it comes in a box with the Kohler name on
it and the starter has the Kohler name stamped on it.
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 High Torque
Gear Starter Motors for Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582. NOTES:
(1) Additional 6.6mm unthreaded hole in additional DE mounting position,
(1) 5.9mm unthreaded hole in CE frame, 1/4-20 threaded battery terminal,
128.2mm magnetic field case length, rubber skirt drive. 12 volt. All new
starter motors are high torque nowadays. They have 20% more wire windings
than the early OEM Kohler starter, giving it 20% more cranking power. Draws
less amps; a smaller battery can be used. Cranks engine about twice as fast
and draws less amps than an ordinary starter.
But with a
broken compression release, a direct-drive high torque starter may not be
able to crank the engine. It'll be best to adjust the valve clearances, repair
the compression release mechanism or replace the cam with a working compression
release. FYI - The aftermarket starter motors I
sell are the same as OEM Kohler starters. Kohler just place a big markup
on theirs because it comes in a box with the Kohler name on it and the starter
has the Kohler name stamped on it.
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 High Torque 12
Volt Gear Starter Motors with Solenoid Shift. Fits Kohler V-twin engine models
CH25, CH620, CH621, CH640, CH641, CH670, CH680, CH682, CH730, CH732, CH735,
CH740, CH742, CH745, CH750, CH752, CH940, CH960, CH980, CH1000, CV620, CV640,
CV670, CV680, CV682, CV730, CV730, CV732, CV740, CV742, CV745, CV750, CV752,
CV940, CV960, CV980, CV1000, ECH630, ECH650, ECH680, ECH730, ECH740, ECH749,
ECH940, ECH980, ECV630, ECV650, ECV680, ECV730, ECV740, ECV749, ECV850, ECV860,
ECV870, ECV880, ECV940, ECV980, ELH775, EZT715, EZT725, EZT740, EZT750, FCV740,
KT715, LH630, LH640, LH685, LH690, LH750, LH755, LH775, LV680, PCH680, PCH740,
PCV680, PCV740, PCV850, PCV860, ZT710, ZT720, ZT730 and ZT740. NOTES: 10-tooth
drive starter. All new starter motors are high torque nowadays. They have
20% more wire windings than the early OEM Kohler starter, giving it 20% more
cranking power. Draws less amps; a smaller battery can be used. Cranks engine
about twice as fast and draws less amps than an ordinary starter.
But with a broken
compression release, a direct-drive high torque starter may not be able to
crank the engine. It'll be best to adjust the valve clearances, repair the
compression release mechanism or replace the cam with a working compression
release. FYI - The aftermarket starter motors I
sell are the same as OEM Kohler starters. Kohler just place a big markup
on theirs because it comes in a box with the Kohler name on it and the starter
has the Kohler name stamped on it.
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 High Torque Gear
Starter Motor for Briggs & Stratton 14, 16, 18 and 20hp Opposed (Flathead)
Twin Cylinder Engines. 12 volt. All new starter motors are high torque nowadays.
They have 15% more wire windings than the short version starter, giving it
15% more cranking power. Draws less amps; a smaller battery can be used.
Cranks engine about twice as fast and draws less amps than an ordinary starter.
FYI - The aftermarket starter motors I sell are the same as OEM Briggs
& Stratton starters. Briggs just place a big markup on theirs because
it comes in a box with their name on it and the starter has the Briggs &
Stratton logo stamped on it.
|
Amp Gauges - Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the parts or items in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page]
 Universal
Analog 10 Amp and 20 Amp Ammeter / Amp Gauge Kits. Gauges registers up
to 10 or 20 amps of charge, depending on total output amperage of stator
or alternator. Install these gauges to know exactly what the charging system
on your engine is doing. Having an ammeter/amp gauge installed is very important
in monitoring the charging system to prevent premature failure of electrical
components. By the time you smell something burning or see smoke, it may
be too late. If the charging system continues to charge on the plus (+) side
with no gradual moving back of the needle to zero on the gauge (if installed)
while the engine is running at full governed speed, this will send too much
voltage to the battery, which could eventually burn up the cells in the battery,
or burn up the primary windings in the ignition coil. Overcharging of the
electrical system could also burn up the electronic ignition control module/unit
(crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger), burn
out light bulbs, electric PTO clutch or any other electrical accessories.
As battery becomes fully charged, needle slowly moves from positive side
(+) to zero (0). Needle will stay on negative side (–) if no charge
goes to the battery. Or gauge will not show any charge at all if charging
system is not working. Easy 2-wire connections. Connect the positive (+)
terminal on back of gauge to the battery positive (+) post, and connect the
negative (–) terminal on back of gauge to the wire going to the ignition
switch that provides power to everything. If the
wires/connections are reversed, and if the charging system is in good working
condition, the gauge will show discharge (–) instead of charge (+).
Use minimum 12 gauge stranded wire. Non-lighted gauges. Each requires 2"
diameter mounting hole and comes with mounting clamp and nuts.
[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
|
Voltage Regulator, Voltage Rectifier/Regulators and Diodes - Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the parts or items in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page]
 New 12 volt,
15 Amp Analog Voltage Regulator for Starter/Generators. If the charging system
continues to charge with no gradual moving back of the needle to zero on
an analog ammeter/amp gauge (if installed) while the
engine is running, this will put too much voltage through the coil, eventually
burning out the primary windings. Overcharging of the charging system could
also burn up the electronic ignition control module
(crank trigger), burn up the battery, burn
out light bulbs, electric PTO clutch and any other electrical accessories.
With the terminals facing you, they read: L (Lights) | Bat (Battery) | F
(Field), with A (Armature) on the bottom. L connects to the Lights (if equipped);
Bat connects to the ignition switch, which connects to the positive (+) post
on the battery; F connects to the Field terminal on the starter/generator;
and Armature connects to the Armature terminal on the starter/generator.
The frame of the regulator must be securely grounded to the tractor or equipment
through the mounting bolts. NOTE: Cannot be substituted for use with
the alternator/stator charging system.
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   Two Wire Rectifier
Diodes. The 3- and 4-amp diodes can be used in a non-regulated small engine
alternator/stator12 volt charging system to convert alternating current (AC)
to direct current (DC) to recharge the battery and/or to power low-amperage
DC electrical accessories, such as LED lights, small electric motors, etc.
A diode is not required for
filament light bulbs, fluorescent and LED shop lights,
and/or an electric PTO clutch. Do not overload the amperage of the diode
or it may burn up. The 1 amp diode can be used on an engine with a small
charging coil next to the magneto ignition coil on the stator to energize
the field windings in a direct-drive 120/240 volt AC portable generator powered
by a small engine or for a
belt-driven automotive
alternator that's powered by a small engine so the alternator/generator
will produce electricity as soon as the engine starts. IMPORTANT - Install
the diode with the silver stripe toward the generator's field windings.
FYI - Briggs & Stratton engines have either one or two OEM alternator stators and they are joined together in two half circles under the flywheel. Some engines only come with one half stator. Each half produce 3 amps of power & 14 volts @ 3,600 RPM. If an engine comes with two stators joined together, one half produces AC, which is used to power the lights and electric PTO clutch. And the other half also produce AC, but is connected to a minimum 3 amp/14 volt diode, which is used to only recharge the battery. Under normal yard use, 3 amps is not enough to overcharge and burn up the battery. If both stator halves are wired together from the factory (as they are on certain engines), they will produce 6 amps of AC power and a 6 amp solid state electronic voltage rectifier/regulator is used to power the lights, electric PTO clutch and recharge the battery. |
||
 1/4" Width Slide-On
Brass Spade Crimp Wire Connector with Locking Tab/Tang. Replace damaged brass
connector(s) to insure 100% electrical connections. Fits plastic housing
electrical connectors used on most OFF-IGNITION-START key switches, voltage
rectifier/regulators, head lights, etc. FYI - To remove old slide-on brass
connector from plastic housing, use a small flat blade screwdriver to depress
locking tab/tang on connector, and pull connector out of housing. Solder
or use
terminal crimping pliers to install new brass connector
on wire. Before installing the new connector, make sure locking tab/tang
is slightly bent outward, and then slide connector into plastic housing in
the correct position until it locks/snaps in place. This part was never
available from Kohler. $1.40 each, plus shipping & handling. |
 Plastic Housing Electrical
Connector. Fits old style 10 amp and new style 15/20 amp voltage
rectifier/regulators below. Replace damaged/melted connector when the brass
slide-on spade crimp wire connectors are in good condition. Requires 1/4"
width slide-on brass spade crimp wire connector with locking tab/tang. OEM
Kohler part # 25 155 41-S. $5.20 each, plus shipping & handling. |
|
 Voltage
Rectifier/Regulators for New-Style 15/20 Amp 12 Volt Alternator/Stator Charging
Stators below. If the charging system continues to generate full charge with
no gradual moving back of the needle to zero on an analog
ammeter/amp gauge (if installed) while the engine
is running, the excessive overcharging may eventually burn out the primary
windings in the ignition coil, burn up the electronic ignition control module
(crank trigger), burn up the battery, burn
out light bulbs, electric PTO clutch, and any other electrical accessories.
The solid state electronic voltage rectifier/regulators shown works the same.
These voltage rectifier/regulators are small, compact and have the same mounting
hole spacing, and fit many 8 thru 24hp Kohler engine models with a 15 amp
or 20 amp output alternator/stator charging stator under the flywheel. Each
mounts in the rectangular hole in the Kohler flywheel shroud with ribs facing
the flywheel for better cooling of the unit. If it's mounted elsewhere with
no cool air blowing over it, it could burn up prematurely. These will also
work with virtually any 15 or 20 amp garden tractor, motorcycle,
etc.alternator/stator charging system. Orientation of the terminals are "three
in a row" (AC - BAT+ - AC). NOTE: These cannot be substituted for use
with the starter/generator charging system.
|
||
   Voltage
Rectifier/Regulators for New-Style 15/20 Amp 12 Volt Alternator Charging
Stators below. If the charging system continues to generate full charge with
no gradual moving back of the needle to zero on an analog
ammeter/amp gauge (if installed) while the engine
is running, the excessive overcharging may eventually burn out the primary
windings in the ignition coil, burn up the electronic ignition control module
(crank trigger), burn up the battery, burn
out light bulbs, electric PTO clutch, and any other electrical accessories.
Each have same mounting holes and fit many 8 thru 24hp Kohler engines with
a 15 amp output alternator charging stator under the flywheel. These will
work with virtually any 15 or 20 amp garden tractor, motorcycle,
etc.alternator/stator charging system. The "two over, one under offset" plastic
wiring connector no longer available from Kohler. NOTE: Cannot be substituted
for use with the starter/generator charging system.
|
||
Generating/Charging Stators and Internal Flywheel Charging Magnets - Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the parts or items in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page]
  New-Style 15/20 Amp 12 Volt Alternator Charging Stators. Use
either stator with 15-20 amp solid state electronic voltage rectifier/regulator
(listed above) to recharge battery while powering electrical accessories.
Fits most newer aluminum block and older cast iron block single and opposed
(flathead) twin cylinder Kohler engine models K141, K161, K181, K241, K301,
K321, K341, K361, KT17/KT17 Series II, KT19/KT19 Series II, KT21, M8-M16,
MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20, K482, K532, K582, CH1000, CH11-CH26, CH430, CH450,
CH620-CH682, CH730-CH752, CH940, CH980, CV1000, CV11-CV25, CV430-CV493,
CV620-CV682, CV725, CV730-CV940, CV960, CV980, ECV630-ECV680, ECV730-ECV749,
ECV630-ECV680, ECV730-ECV749, ECV850-ECV880, ECV940, ECV980, FCV740, KT610,
KT620, KT715-KT745, LH430, LH640-LH690, LH750, LH755, LV625-LV680, PCH680,
PCH740, PCV680, PCV740, PCV850, PCV860, SV470-SV480, SV530-SV590, SV600-SV620,
SV710-SV740, SV810-SV840, TH16, TH18, TH575, ZT710-ZT740, except various
early John Deere with a single cylinder Kohler engine with the 4-1/4"±
charging stator. Use with flywheel having six internal ceramic magnets, which
will produce 15-20 amps at 3,600 RPM. If used with a flywheel having
factory-installed three magnets spaced equally apart (rare), stator will
only produce 7.5 amps at 3,600 RPM. Dimensions of each stator: 5-1/2" O.D.
x 2-3/4" I.D. x 2-1/4" bolt pattern.
|
||
  Internal Flywheel Magnets for Alternator/Stator Charging Systems.
Fits aluminum and cast iron block single and twin cylinder Kohler engine
models K141, K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series
II, KT19, KT19 Series II, M8, M10, M12, M14, M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20,
K482, K532, K582, CH1000, CH11-CH26, CH430, CH450, CH620-CH682, CH730-CH752,
CH940, CH980, CV1000, CV11-CV25, CV430-CV493, CV620-CV682, CV725, CV730-CV940,
CV960, CV980, ECV630-ECV680, ECV730-ECV749, ECV630-ECV680, ECV730-ECV749,
ECV850-ECV880, ECV940, ECV980, FCV740, KT610, KT620, KT715-KT745, LH430,
LH640-LH690, LH750, LH755, LV625-LV680, PCH680, PCH740, PCV680, PCV740, PCV850,
PCV860, SV470-SV480, SV530-SV590, SV600-SV620, SV710-SV740, SV810-SV840,
TH16, TH18, TH575, ZT710-ZT740, except various early John Deere with a single
cylinder Kohler engine with the 4-1/4"± charging stator, and larger
Tecumseh engines with an alternator/stator charging system having the 5-1/2"
diameter stator. Magnet(s) may come in 3/4" or 7/8" height, but will work
the same. Comes with magnetic poles identified. Not available separate from
Kohler or Tecumseh. All magnets are used and in excellent condition.
|
||
 Solid State Electronic
Voltage Rectifier/Regulator for Old-Style 10 Amp 12 Volt Alternator/Stator
Charging Stators below Ê. If the charging
system continues to generate full charge with no gradual moving back of the
needle to zero on an analog ammeter/amp gauge (if
installed) while the engine is running, the excessive overcharging may eventually
burn out the primary windings in the ignition coil, burn up the electronic
ignition control module (crank trigger), burn
up the battery, burn out light bulbs, electric PTO clutch, and any other
electrical accessories. These will also work with virtually any 15 or 20
amp small engine alternator/stator charging system. Orientation of the terminals
are "three in a row" (AC | BAT+ | AC). NOTE: Cannot be substituted for
use with the starter/generator charging system. FYI: After many years
of use and for reasons unknown (even to me), the old-style 10 amp charging
system is notorious for generating very few amps, about 3 amps more or less
maximum at full governed engine speed, and I have no idea why. I believe
this is why the 10 amp stator was a short-lived item that was discontinued
from Kohler and replaced with the more reliable 15/20 amp stator charging
system, which works much better and is still in use on many makes and models
of small engines today. So if your engine has the 10 amp charging system
and it only generates a few amps, it may need to be upgraded with the new-style
15/20 charging system.
|
||
  Old-Style 10 Amp 12 Volt Alternator Charging Stator. Not to
be used with Kohler Breakerless or Tecumseh Solid State Ignition. This stator
requires a flywheel with charging magnets embedded in an aluminum ring. Use
with 10 amp solid state electronic voltage rectifier/regulator listed above
to recharge battery while powering electrical accessories. Fits only John
Deere garden tractors with a cast iron block Tecumseh engine or Kohler engine
models K241 w/specification #'s 46593 and 46608; K301 w/specification #'s
47148, 47175, 47399 and 47419; K321 w/specification #'s 60102, 60118, 60136
and 60136A. Dimensions: 4-5/8" O.D. x 2-3/4" I.D. x 2-1/4" bolt pattern.
Discontinued OEM Kohler part # 237065-S; John Deere part #'s AM32073, AM32334
(w/o solid state electronic ignition); replaces Tecumseh part # 610761A (w/o
solid state electronic ignition). FYI: After many years of use and for
reasons unknown (even to me), the old-style 10 amp charging system is notorious
for generating very few amps, about 3 amps more or less maximum at full governed
engine speed, and I have no idea why. I believe this is why the 10 amp stator
was a short-lived item that was discontinued from Kohler and replaced with
the more reliable 15/20 amp stator charging system, which works much better
and is still in use on many makes and models of small engines today. So if
your engine has the 10 amp charging system and it only generates a few amps,
it may need to be upgraded with the new-style 15/20 charging system.
|
||
 Old-Style 10 Amp 12 Volt Alternator Charging Stator w/Electronic
Ignition Energizing Coil. Can be used with Kohler Breakerless, Tecumseh Solid
State, or Points/Condenser Ignition. This stator requires a flywheel with
charging magnets embedded in an aluminum ring. Use with 10 amp solid state
electronic voltage rectifier/regulator (listed above) to recharge battery
while powering electrical accessories. To be used with a Kohler or Tecumseh
flywheel designed for a John Deere garden tractor. Fits John Deere garden
tractors with a cast iron block Tecumseh engine model VH80, VH100, HH80,
HH100, HH120, OH140, OH150, OH160 and OH180 with solid state ignition, and
used on Kohler engine models K241 w/specification #'s 46593 and 46608; K301
w/specification #'s 47148, 47175, 47399 and 47419; K321 w/specification #'s
60102, 60118, 60136 and 60136A with Breakerless Ignition. Dimensions: 4-5/8"
O.D. x 2-3/4" I.D. x 2-1/4" bolt pattern. OEM Kohler part # 237877-S; OEM
Tecumseh part # 610761A; John Deere part # AM31738. Deere part # AM31738.
 The wire that connects
from the stator to the Kohler Breakerless Ignition Trigger Module or Tecumseh
Solid State Ignition Module generates about 250 volts while the engine is
running at full governed speed. (Seriously; I tested it with a voltmeter.)
Do not touch this wire/terminal with one bare hand and the engine itself
with your other hand while the engine is running! Electrical shock or
electrocution could result. This wire is not required with any of A-1 Miller's
custom-made flywheel-trigger electronic ignition systems. So snip off this
wire or tape up the terminal. FYI: After many years of
use and for reasons unknown (even to me), the old-style 10 amp charging system
is notorious for generating very few amps, about 3 amps more or less maximum
at full governed engine speed, and I have no idea why. I believe this is
why the 10 amp stator was a short-lived item that was discontinued from Kohler
and replaced with the more reliable 15/20 amp stator charging system, which
works much better and is still in use on many makes and models of small engines
today. So if your engine has the 10 amp charging system and it only generates
a few amps, it may need to be upgraded with the new-style 15/20 charging
system.
|
||
 Recoil Starter
Cups w/internal notches, 5/8" hole, and with or without screen for Kohler
engine models K141, K161 and K181.
Recoil Starter Cup w/internal notches, 5/8" hole and without screen for Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321 and K341. OEM Kohler part # 235685-S.
|
A-1 Miller's Computerized Stuska Water Brake Engine Dynamometer (Dyno) Service with DPM Data Logger Software to Test Horsepower and Torque! | [Top of Page]
For performance testing of 10-16hp
single cylinder Kohler stock or competition pulling engines at speeds up
to 12,000 RPM. 100% accurate, customers can rent dyno time, fine tune and
make adjustments or changes to their engines to gain maximum horsepower and
torque, and print-out the results so their tractor(s) will be truly competitive
on the track. With an engine dyno, the puller can adjust their engine to
get maximum horsepower and torque, and gear their tractor appropriately to
have an advantage over the competition. NOTE: A fresh-built engine may
not produce full power until it's broke-in. This is when the valves wear-in
with the seats to completely seal in the compression. The rings will likely
hold the compression, but the valves may leak slightly until they wear into
the seats. This is normal for all engines and may take several hours or pulls
to happen, then the valves will be able to hold full compression. Lots of
pullers tell A-1 Miller's after I've built their engines that it seems to
pull stronger every time they pull it.
Engine Dyno Rental Fee: $50.00 per hour run time from the moment the engine is started. No setup fee for Cub Cadet engines with a 3- or 6-pin/stud clutch driver. An adapter may need to be needed or fabricated for other makes and models of engines. Only engines with the narrow base oil pan can be tested. Engines with the wide base (tall) oil pan cannot be tested at this time. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]
Coming Soon - Detailed Illustrated
Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back and Self-Propelled Garden
Tractor Pulling Sled. FYI - I have lots of
work to do in my shop and I work on my sled plans in my spare time. As soon
as my plans with an inventory list of parts to use are perfected, I'll post
the update in my websites with prices of the plans. Remember - Perfection
takes time. If it's worth having, it's worth waiting for. Also, I plan to
acquire a bigger shop and may build high quality garden tractor pulling sleds
in the future to offer for sale. Please call 573-256-0313 (shop) or 573-881-7229
(cell; text or voice message), or email
pullingtractor@aol.com if interested
in purchasing the plans or a sled. - Brian Miller
To place an order and/or for FREE professional and honest
technical assistance and support,
please contact: A-1 Miller's
Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri)
65203-9136 USA | 
Phone:
1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice
message, please speak slowly and clearly). Payment
Options. Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central
time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian,
please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. A-1 Miller's
shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, with an appointment on weekends,
except holidays. Please call, text or email me before coming so I'll be at
my shop waiting for your arrival. When you visit our shop, you will be dealing
directly with the owner for the best customer service.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine parts, entire
engine, transaxle, transmission, entire garden tractor, etc. for rebuilding
and/or repairing, or to purchase parts. "The road to a friend's house (or
shop) is never long." (We're planning to relocate our business to other property
with a bigger and better shop so we can provide many more high quality parts
and professional services.)
[Return To Previous Paragraph, Section
or Website]
Payment Options and We Ship to Canada and
Worldwide 
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent
by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged
item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service
Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal
Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S.
territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground
or equivalent services. We try to keep our shipping cost to customers within
reason. Therefore, we don't ship our products in a fancy-looking package
with our company name and/or logo on it because most customers will just
toss it in the trash after they remove the contents. And being there is no
USPS tracking number outside the US, all I can do is make sure I write your
address correctly on the customs form and on your package.
My websites are not set up to process orders and accept payments. Therefore, for payment options, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total amount for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge), Western Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram Money Transfers. If paying with a credit/debit card, please call me at either number below. To make a payment to me through PayPal, please click this link: https://www.paypal.me/PullingTractor. Please use the "Friends and Family" option, or add 3% to the total amount to cover PayPal's processing surcharge. Or to make a payment to me (pullingtractor@aol.com) in the US through the Venmo app, please click this link: venmo.com. Or use Cash App to make a payment to me (pullingtractor@aol.com). And be sure to mention in PayPal, Venmo or Cash App a description of what the payment is for with your full name, postal address, phone number and email address. If sending a money order or cashier's check, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete mailing address, phone number, email address and a description of what the payment is for. I'll make a note of your order when I have all your information, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send everything on your list to you as soon as I have the parts in stock after I receive your payment.
à Return to Main Pulling Tips Page | Return To Previous Page | Various Vendors Related to Tractor Pulling | Top of Page
Copyright © 1996-Present. This website created, designed and maintained by Brian Miller.
Aluminum Locking Set Screw Collar
w/Embedded Trigger Magnet. Use with hall effect proximity sensors only.
$15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Plastic Housing Electrical
Connector Only. Fits universal OFF-IGNITION-START rotary key switches
listed above and other rotary key switches with same terminal configuration.
Three slots will also fit the OEM Cub Cadet ignition key switch. Replace
damaged connector when the brass slide-on spade crimp wire connectors are
in good condition. Requires 1/4" width slide-on brass spade crimp wire connectors
with locking tab/tang below. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
4 Terminal Solenoid/Relay, 12
volt, plastic body, universal mount. Suitable for lawn and garden equipment,
and stock competition pulling engines. Prevents from burning out a light-duty
manual starter switch and eliminates need for a heavy duty manual starter
switch in a custom wiring circuit. Intermittent duty. Use to temporarily
activate any maximum 80 amp capacity electrical accessory. If continually
energized for long period of time, plastic body may melt. Internally grounded
through mounting base. Studs: 10-32 UNF, 1/4-20 UNC. Grounded mounting base.
Wiring connections: Small terminal connects to starter switch or momentary
push button switch to energize solenoid. One large terminal connects to battery
positive (+) post, and the other large terminal connects to starter motor,
horn, kill switch motor, etc.
4 Terminal Starter Solenoid/Relay,
12 volt, Plastic Body, Universal Usage. Suitable for general lawn and garden
use, or high RPM competition pulling engines. Prevents from burning out a
manual light-duty switch and eliminates need for a heavy duty switch in a
custom wiring circuit. Intermittent duty. Use to temporarily activate any
maximum 150 amp capacity electrical accessory. If continually energized for
long period of time, plastic body may melt. Internally grounded through mounting
base. Wiring connections: One large terminal connects to battery positive
(+) post, and other large terminal connects to starter motor. The small
[S] terminal connects to starter switch or momentary push button switch
to energize solenoid, and other small [I] terminal connects to positive
(+) terminal on ignition coil to by-pass the ballast resistor or resistor
wire for points/condenser ignition, or connects to the Chrysler or Ford
electronic ignition control module/unit to give the coil a stronger spark
for faster engine start up. Studs: 10-32 UNF, 5/16-18 UNC.
3 Terminal Starter Solenoid/Relay,
12 volt, Metal Body, Universal Usage. Suitable for general lawn and garden
use, or high RPM competition pulling engines. Prevents from burning out a
manual light-duty switch and eliminates need for a heavy duty switch in a
custom wiring circuit. Continuous duty; can be used to activate any maximum
150 amp capacity electrical accessory for a long period of time. Internally
grounded through mounting base. Wiring connections: Small terminal connects
to starter switch or momentary push button switch, which connects to the
positive (+) battery post. And one large terminal connects directly to the
battery positive (+) post, and other large terminal connects directly to
the starter motor, horn, kill switch motor, etc. Studs: 10-32 UNF, 5/16-18
UNC.
4 Terminal Starter Solenoid/Relay,
12 volt, Metal Body, Universal Usage. Suitable for general lawn and garden
use, or high RPM competition pulling engines. Prevents from burning out a
manual light-duty switch and eliminates need for a heavy duty switch in a
custom wiring circuit. Continuous duty; can be used to activate any maximum
150 amp capacity electrical accessory for a long period of time. Isolated
base; solenoid is not internally grounded. Wiring connections: One small
terminal must be grounded to the engine or chassis, which is connected to
the negative (–) battery post, and the other small terminal connects
to the starter switch, which connects to the positive (+) battery post. It
doesn't matter which terminal is connected to the switch or ground. And one
large terminal connects directly to the battery positive (+) post, and other
large terminal connects directly to the starter motor, horn, kill switch
motor, etc. Studs: 5/16-18 NC, 10-32 UNF.
Most quality-made starter motors are designed to last the life of the engine.
Therefore, if a good starter burns up prematurely, then this means that it
has cranked the engine for too long at one time. All starters are actually
6 volt motors operating on 12 volts. This is what gives them so much torque
to crank the engine so fast and with ease. So if a starter motor is spun
too long (longer than 2 minutes), the excess voltage will burn up the wire
windings in the starter. The longer it's spun, the hotter it will get, which
causes the windings to get very hot, which causes the insulating/separating
varnish coating on the windings to melt. When the coating melts, the windings
make contact with each other and become shorted out, and you have a burned
up starter on your hands. That's why most owner's and repair manuals say
to never crank an engine longer than 2 minutes at a time without allowing
adequate time for the starter to cool before cranking it again. (If an engine
won't start within 2 minutes of cranking, then it obviously needs a major
tune-up or repair!)