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If you would like to purchase
any of the parts or services listed in this website, and/or for FREE professional
and honest technical assistance and support, please contact: A-1 Miller's
Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri)
65203-9136 USA | 
Phone:
1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice
message, please speak slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except
holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later.
(When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I
stutter.)
E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.
When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly
with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to
the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we
can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
High Quality Tachometers - Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any of these parts or services. | [Top of Page]
 High Quality
Inductive Handheld Small Engine Wireless Tachometer. A tachometer is
required in setting the correct RPMs (normally 3,200 or 3,600 maximum for
small engines) of an engine to prevent from over-revving and possible damage
to the engine or dangerous flywheel explosion. Works with magneto and
battery-powered ignition systems. Very accurate. For gas/spark ignite engines
only. Works with magneto and battery-powered ignition systems. This handheld
analog tachometer works great for checking/setting the RPM on various small
engines in the shop, and/or for checking/setting the RPM [tech] on stock
governored competition pulling engines. Hold sensor (antenna) close to spark
plug wire for reading. Operates off a self-contained replaceable 9 volt battery.
Has built-in battery voltage check. Reads up to 5,000 RPM on the low scale,
and 15,000 RPM on the high scale.
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 High Quality Inductive
Small Engine Tachometer/Hour Meter. A tachometer is required in setting
the correct RPMs (normally 3,200 or 3,600 maximum for small engines) of an
engine to prevent over-revving and possible damage to the engine or dangerous
flywheel explosion. Very accurate. Can be hand-held to temporarily set engine
RPM or can be surface-mounted and secured with two screws. mounted to monitor
engine RPM at all times. Large 3/8 inch LCD display. Works with all spark
ignition engines by selecting engine type using S1 and S2 buttons. Works
with magneto and battery-powered ignition systems. If tachometer does
not turn on automatically as soon as engine starts, press and hold the two
buttons at the same time. Instructions included. Tachometer reads up
to 99,999 RPM. Hour meter reads up to 9999:59 hours/minutes then resets to
Zero. Programmable maintenance hour setting with service icon, a reminder
when to change oil or other service. Can be manually reset to Zero hours.
Programmable maintenance hour setting with service icon, a reminder when
to change oil or other service. Easy installation: Single wire wraps around
spark plug wire and secured with two supplied nylon zip-ties. No wire terminal
connections required. Dimensions: 2" wide x 1-3/4" depth x 3/4" height.
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 High Quality
Digital Tachometer/Proximity Sensor Kits. A tachometer is required in
setting the correct RPMs (normally 3,200 or 3,600 maximum for small engines)
of an engine to prevent from over-revving and possible damage to the engine
or dangerous flywheel explosion. Choice of
RED,
GREEN or
BLUE numeric display. Will work with
single- or twin-cylinder small engines or multi-cylinder automotive engines,
gas or diesel. Displays RPMs as soon as engine cranks over to start. Displays
up to 9,999 RPM. Very accurate. Tachometer returns to zero [0000] when power
(ignition) is turned off. Works with magneto (with a battery to power the
proximity sensor and tachometer) and battery-powered ignition systems. Can
be used for lawn & garden equipment or competition pulling engines. Designed
to be permanently mounted to monitor engine RPM at all times. Tachometer
can be in-dash or panel-mounted. This precision digital tachometer operates
with external power and on the same principle as my
crank- or flywheel-trigger
ignition systems with a proximity sensor to detect the target, which
can be a small ferrous steel screw or pin, or magnet in a rotating disc on
the crankshaft or on/in flywheel. A sturdy steel or aluminum bracket will
need to be fabricated by customer to mount the sensor in close proximity
of the detector/trigger target. Set air gap/clearance at .010"-.188". Tachometer
works with 8-24 volts DC, proximity sensor works with 6-36 volts DC. Dimensions
for mounting hole for tachometer: 3" wide x 1-17/32" wide. Tachometer measures
1" in depth. Dimensions of proximity sensor: 15/32" diameter x 1-3/8" thread
length. Wiring Instructions: #1 wire on tachometer connects to brown wire
on proximity sensor and ignition switch (12 volt power), #2 wire on tachometer
connects to blue wire on proximity sensor and engine/chassis ground (battery
negative (–) post), and #5 wire on tachometer connects to black wire
on (either) proximity sensor. Wires #3 and #4 connects to nothing. Wiring
is the same for the hall effect and inductive proximity sensors. Some proximity
sensors have an LED (Light Emitting Diode) on the rear of unit. If the proximity
sensor is wired incorrectly, the LED will illuminate within the target. Cannot
be wired in conjunction with the Dynatek Dyna S or PerTronix Ignitor ignition
modules. This tachometer must be wired separately or wiring can be integrated
with my crank trigger
ignition system that use a proximity sensor.
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  Grounding-Type Safety Break-Away / Kill Switch with Pull-Pin.
Use for competition pulling only; mount on rear of tractor. When the pin
pulled, it grounds the ignition coil from producing spark. If using with
a self-energizing magneto or solid state electronic ignition systems: Connect
one wire to the chassis ground, and connect the other wire to the
points/condenser wire or to the kill terminal on the solid state ignition
coil/module. If using with a battery-powered ignition system: Connect one
wire to the chassis ground, and connect the other wire to the coil negative
(–) terminal. NOTE: With battery-powered ignition, as soon as pin
is pulled (engine will die), manually shut off ignition switch right away
to prevent possible damage to the ignition coil and electronic ignition module
if equipped with crank trigger ignition. This type of switch does not
disable power to the electric fuel pump
on a pulling tractor. With this type of kill switch, the electric fuel pump
must be shut-off manually by the ignition switch or an OFF/ON toggle switch.
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Electrical Accessory Switches - Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any of these parts or services. | [Top of Page]
 High Quality
Universal Self-Grounding OFF/ON Switches for Magneto (points and
condenser/capacitor) or
Solid
State Electronic Ignition Systems. Very durable, tough switches. Each
can be mounted in metal (grounded) dashboard, instrument panel, engine control
panel, engine flywheel shroud, etc. Single blade on switch connects to points
wire or solid state electronic module wire/terminal that kills the engine.
Can be used on anything that has points and condenser/capacitor magneto,
solid state ignition/modules, such
as: Kohler Magnum and Command engines, lawn mowers, lawn tractors, garden
tillers, go-karts, chainsaws, portable air compressors, generators/welders,
water pumps, etc.
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 High Quality Universal
OFF/ON Switches for Battery-Powered Ignition Systems. Each can be mounted
in dashboard, instrument panel, engine control panel, etc. Very durable,
tough switches. Can be used on virtually anything that has a battery-powered
electrical system, such as: garden tractors, pulling tractors, mini-rods,
hot-rods, farm tractors, automobiles, etc.
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 High
Quality Universal Light Duty OFF/ON 15 Amp Capacity Momentary Push Button
Switch. Normally Open; push to connect circuit. Use as starter switch to
crank engine, as a safety switch, temporarily power electrical accessories,
such as light(s), etc., or to power kill switch motor (on pulling sled).
Starter solenoid/relay may be required if electrical load exceeds 15 amps.
Use #250
slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals
when connecting wires to switch. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. 2-1/8" overall
length. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality Universal Light Duty ON/OFF 15 Amp Capacity Momentary Push Button Switch. Normally Off; push to disconnect circuit. Use as a safety switch for transmission shifter in a pulling vehicle to disconnect power to the starting circuit when transmission is in gear. Use #250 slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals when connecting wires to switch. Requires 15/32" mounting hole. 2-1/8" overall length. $16.00 each, plus shipping & handling. High Quality Universal Heavy Duty 20 Amp Capacity Momentary Push Button Switch. Normally Open; push to connect circuit. Comes with two screws to connect between battery positive (+) post and starter motor. Heavy wire terminals and minimum #8 gauge wire recommended. Starter solenoid/relay may be required if electrical load exceeds 20 amps. Requires 5/8" mounting hole. $14.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
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  High Quality Universal 3-Position OFF-IGNITION-START Key Switch
for use with Magneto w/Points and Condenser Ignition or Solid State Electronic
Ignition. Use with a starter solenoid/relay to prevent burning out internal
contacts in switch. Identification of terminals in clockwise rotation are:
B = Battery (+); G = Ground (ground to body of switch); L = Lights (Auxiliary);
M = Magneto (Ignition); S = Solenoid (starter). Key positions: OFF position
makes contact with M+G; IGNITION position makes contact with B+L; START position
makes contact with B+S. Each terminal identified for correct wire connections.
If using an ammeter/amp gauge, connect the gauge/meter to the battery positive
(+) post, then to the B terminal on the switch. Trace the wires on your
tractor/equipment to see if they match the terminals on this switch. If they
don't match, the plug-in spade connectors/wires can be rearranged in the
plastic connector housing to match the corresponding terminals on the switch.
To do this, use a small flat blade screwdriver to depress the locking tab/tang
so the plug-in connector can be pulled out from the plastic connector housing.
Bend the locking tab/tang up slightly before reinserting it in the plastic
connector so it will be secured in place. Or use #250
slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals
when connecting wires to switch. Requires 5/8" diameter mounting hole.
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 High Quality Universal 3-Position OFF-IGNITION-START Key Switch
for use with Battery-Powered Points/Condenser Ignition or
Flywheel/Crank-Trigger Electronic Ignition. Use with a starter solenoid/relay
to prevent burning out internal contacts in switch. Identification of terminals
in clockwise rotation are: I = Ignition; A = Auxiliary (lights, electric
PTO clutch, etc.); R = Voltage Rectifier/Regulator (not used with a
starter/generator); B = Battery (+); S = Solenoid (starter). Key positions:
OFF position = no contact; IGNITION position makes contact with B+I+R+A;
START position makes contact with B+I+R+S. Each terminal identified for correct
wire connections. If using an ammeter/amp gauge, connect the gauge/meter
to the battery positive (+) post, then to the B terminal on the switch. Trace
the wires on your tractor/equipment to see if they match the terminals on
this switch. If they don't match, the plug-in spade connectors/wires can
be rearranged in the plastic connector housing to match the corresponding
terminals on the switch. To do this, use a small flat blade screwdriver to
depress the locking tab/tang so the plug-in connector can be pulled out from
the plastic connector housing. Bend the locking tab/tang up slightly before
reinserting it in the plastic connector so it will be secured in place. Or
use #250
slip-on female spade crimp-type wire connectors on terminals
when connecting wires to switch. Requires 9/16" diameter mounting hole.
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 Brass Slide-On
Spade Wire Connector with Locking Tab/Tang. Replace damaged or broken OEM
connector in plastic connector housing used on most Off-Ignition-Start key
switches, voltage rectifier/regulators, etc. To remove old connector from
plastic housing, depress locking tab/tang from opposite the wire end with
a small flat screwdriver, and pull connector out of the housing. Solder or
use
terminal crimping pliers to install on wire. Before installing
the new connector, make sure locking tab/tang is slightly bent outward, and
slide connector into plastic housing in the correct position until it locks/snaps
in place. This part was never available from Kohler.
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 OFF/ON
Main Disconnect/Cutoff Switch. Use this 100 amp capacity electrical switch
to disconnect power to everything on the equipment. Connect between battery
negative (–) post and ground. Useful when equipment is not used for
a period of time to prevent a slow drain on the battery, prevent short circuits
when performing electrical service on equipment, or for a pulling tractor
to prevent accidental starts or to prevent sabotage at the pull sites from
disgruntled pullers. Copper terminals with brass hex nuts for improved
continuity. Comes with protective weather cap and two removable nylon key
locks. Mounting hardware not included.
[Return to previous paragraph, section
or website]
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Solenoids/Relays - Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any of these parts or services. | [Top of Page]
 3 Terminal
Solenoid/Relay, 12 volt, plastic body, universal mount. Suitable for lawn
and garden equipment, and stock competition pulling engines. Prevents from
burning out a light-duty manual starter switch and eliminates need for a
heavy duty manual starter switch in a custom wiring circuit. Intermittent
duty. Use to temporarily activate any maximum 80 amp capacity electrical
accessory. If continually energized for long period of time, plastic body
may melt. Internally grounded through mounting base. Studs: 10-32 UNF, 1/4-20
UNC.. High quality aftermarket. Grounded mounting base. Wiring connections:
Small terminal connects to starter switch or momentary push button switch
to energize solenoid. One large terminal connects to battery positive (+)
post, and the other large terminal connects to starter motor, horn, kill
switch motor, etc.
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Starter Motors - Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any of these parts or services. | [Top of Page]
 High Torque
Gear Starter Motors for Kohler engine models K141, K161 and K181 single cylinder
cast iron block Kohler engine. 12 volt, 16 tooth gear. All starter motors
are high torque nowadays. They have 20% more wire windings than the early
OEM Kohler starter, giving it 20% more cranking power. Draws less amps; a
smaller battery can be used. Cranks engine about twice as fast and draws
less amps than an ordinary starter.
But with a
broken compression release, a direct-drive high torque starter may not be
able to crank the engine. It'll be best to adjust the valve clearances, repair
the compression release mechanism or replace the cam with a working compression
release. FYI - The aftermarket starter motors I
sell are the same as OEM Kohler starters. Kohler just place a big markup
on theirs because it comes in a Kohler brand box and the starter has the
Kohler name stamped on it. Kohler part # 41 098 08-S.
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 Replacement Starter
Gear Kit for Kohler Engine Models K241-K361 with the High Torque Gear Starter
(below). Fits the newer upper and lower mount gear starters with the 10 tooth
gear. Will not fit the older low torque gear starters.
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 10 and 13 Tooth
Upper Mount (mounting bolts are below starter) High Torque Gear Starter Motors
for Kohler K-series engine models K241, K301, K321, K341 and K361. 12 volt.
All new starter motors are high torque nowadays. They have 20% more wire
windings than the early OEM Kohler starter, giving it 20% more cranking power.
Cranks engine about twice as fast and draws less amps than an ordinary starter.
Therefore, a smaller battery can be used. In addition to the extra windings,
the 10 tooth starter gear gives this starter extra torque so it'll crank
the engine with less effort. The 10 tooth starter provides 13% more cranking
torque than the 13 tooth starter, and the 13 tooth starter cranks the engine
over 30% faster than the 10 tooth starter. The 13 tooth starter is best to
be used with working compression
release.
But
with a broken compression release, a direct-drive high torque starter may
not be able to crank the engine. It'll be best to adjust the valve clearances,
repair the compression release mechanism or replace the cam with a working
compression release. FYI - The 10 tooth starter
cannot be used in place of the 13 tooth starter, but the 13 tooth starter
can be used in place of the 10 tooth starter by shimming/spacing the starter
away from the engine block with an ordinary flat washer on each mounting
bolt.
And the aftermarket starter motors I sell are the same as
OEM Kohler starters. Kohler just place a big markup on theirs because it
comes in a box with the Kohler name on it and the starter has the Kohler
name stamped on it.
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 The Ultimate High
Torque, Gear Reduction Starter Motor that will not hesitate when cranking
a Kohler K-series single cylinder engine without an automatic compression
release and with a high compression machined billet cylinder head. Capable
of cranking over a 30 c.i., 37c.i./16hp Missouri Super-Stock and 50.5 c.i.
Modified-Class single cylinder pulling engine. This is an extremely powerful
starter for a Kohler pulling engine! Comes with a heavy duty CNC-machined
billet aluminum adapter/mounting bracket. NOTE: Best to use an extra
long hex bit (Allen) wrench when fastening the socket (Allen) head bolts
to engine block.
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 High Torque
Lower Mount (mounting bolts are above starter) Gear Starter Motors for Kohler
engine models K241, K301, K321, K341 and K361 engines. 12 volt. All new starter
motors are high torque nowadays. They have 20% more wire windings than the
early OEM Kohler starter, giving it 20% more cranking power. Draws less amps;
a smaller battery can be used. Cranks engine about twice as fast and draws
less amps than an ordinary starter. In addition to the extra windings, the
10 tooth starter gear gives this starter extra torque so it'll crank the
engine with less effort.
But with a
broken compression release, a direct-drive high torque starter may not be
able to crank the engine. It'll be best to adjust the valve clearances, repair
the compression release mechanism or replace the cam with a working compression
release. FYI - The aftermarket starter motors I
sell are the same as OEM Kohler starters. Kohler just place a big markup
on theirs because it comes in a box with the Kohler name on it and the starter
has the Kohler name stamped on it.
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 High Torque
Gear Starter Motors for Kohler Magnum engine models M8, M10, M12, M14 and
M16 engines. 12 volt. All new starter motors are high torque nowadays. They
have 20% more wire windings than the early OEM Kohler starter, giving it
20% more cranking power. Draws less amps; a smaller battery can be used.
Cranks engine about twice as fast and draws less amps than an ordinary starter.
Length: 7-1/4"; mounting studs: two 1/4"-20; o.d. housing: 3-1/16"; center
to center mount: 2-1/2"'.
But with a
broken compression release, a direct-drive high torque starter may not be
able to crank the engine. It'll be best to adjust the valve clearances, repair
the compression release mechanism or replace the cam with a working compression
release. FYI - The aftermarket starter motors I
sell are the same as OEM Kohler starters. Kohler just place a big markup
on theirs because it comes in a box with the Kohler name on it and the starter
has the Kohler name stamped on it.
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 High Torque
Gear Starter Motors for Kohler opposed twin engine models MV16, KT17, KT17
series 2, KT19, KT19 series 2, KT21, M18, MV18, MV20 and M20. 12 volt. Same
as starter below Ê, except has wire terminal
connection on side of housing. All new starter motors are high torque nowadays.
They have 20% more wire windings than the early OEM Kohler starter, giving
it 20% more cranking power. Draws less amps; a smaller battery can be used.
Cranks engine about twice as fast and draws less amps than an ordinary starter.
Due to their low compression, the Kohler opposed twin cylinder engines do
not have a compression release, nor do they need one. FYI - The aftermarket
starter motors I sell are the same as OEM Kohler starters. Kohler just place
a big markup on theirs because it comes in a box with the Kohler name on
it and the starter has the Kohler name stamped on it.
Starter with Terminal Positioned on Side of Housing. (Most common.)
Starter with Terminal Positioned on End of Housing.
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 High Torque
Gear Starter Motors for Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582. NOTES:
(1) Additional 6.6mm unthreaded hole in additional DE mounting position,
(1) 5.9mm unthreaded hole in CE frame, 1/4-20 threaded battery terminal,
128.2mm magnetic field case length, rubber skirt drive. 12 volt. All new
starter motors are high torque nowadays. They have 20% more wire windings
than the early OEM Kohler starter, giving it 20% more cranking power. Draws
less amps; a smaller battery can be used. Cranks engine about twice as fast
and draws less amps than an ordinary starter.
But with a
broken compression release, a direct-drive high torque starter may not be
able to crank the engine. It'll be best to adjust the valve clearances, repair
the compression release mechanism or replace the cam with a working compression
release. FYI - The aftermarket starter motors I
sell are the same as OEM Kohler starters. Kohler just place a big markup
on theirs because it comes in a box with the Kohler name on it and the starter
has the Kohler name stamped on it.
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 High Torque 12
Volt Gear Starter Motors with Solenoid Shift. Fits Kohler V-twin engine models
CH25, CH620, CH621, CH640, CH641, CH670, CH680, CH682, CH730, CH732, CH735,
CH740, CH742, CH745, CH750, CH752, CH940, CH960, CH980, CH1000, CV620, CV640,
CV670, CV680, CV682, CV730, CV730, CV732, CV740, CV742, CV745, CV750, CV752,
CV940, CV960, CV980, CV1000, ECH630, ECH650, ECH680, ECH730, ECH740, ECH749,
ECH940, ECH980, ECV630, ECV650, ECV680, ECV730, ECV740, ECV749, ECV850, ECV860,
ECV870, ECV880, ECV940, ECV980, ELH775, EZT715, EZT725, EZT740, EZT750, FCV740,
KT715, LH630, LH640, LH685, LH690, LH750, LH755, LH775, LV680, PCH680, PCH740,
PCV680, PCV740, PCV850, PCV860, ZT710, ZT720, ZT730 and ZT740. NOTES: 10-tooth
drive starter. All new starter motors are high torque nowadays. They have
20% more wire windings than the early OEM Kohler starter, giving it 20% more
cranking power. Draws less amps; a smaller battery can be used. Cranks engine
about twice as fast and draws less amps than an ordinary starter.
But with a broken
compression release, a direct-drive high torque starter may not be able to
crank the engine. It'll be best to adjust the valve clearances, repair the
compression release mechanism or replace the cam with a working compression
release. FYI - The aftermarket starter motors I
sell are the same as OEM Kohler starters. Kohler just place a big markup
on theirs because it comes in a box with the Kohler name on it and the starter
has the Kohler name stamped on it.
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 High Torque Gear
Starter Motor for Briggs & Stratton 14, 16, 18 and 20hp Opposed (Flathead)
Twin Cylinder Engines. 12 volt. All new starter motors are high torque nowadays.
They have 15% more wire windings than the short version starter, giving it
15% more cranking power. Draws less amps; a smaller battery can be used.
Cranks engine about twice as fast and draws less amps than an ordinary starter.
FYI - The aftermarket starter motors I sell are the same as OEM Briggs
& Stratton starters. Briggs just place a big markup on theirs because
it comes in a box with their name on it and the starter has the Briggs &
Stratton logo stamped on it.
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Amp Gauges - Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any of these parts or services. | [Top of Page]
 Universal
Analog 10 Amp and 20 Amp Ammeter / Amp Gauge Kits. Gauges registers up
to 10 or 20 amps of charge, depending on total output amperage of stator
or alternator. Install these gauges to know exactly what the charging system
on your engine is doing. Having an ammeter/amp gauge installed is very important
in monitoring the charging system to prevent premature failure of electrical
components. By the time you smell something burning or see smoke, it may
be too late. If the charging system continues to charge on the plus (+) side
with no gradual moving back of the needle to zero on the gauge (if installed)
while the engine is running at full governored speed, this will send too
much voltage to the battery, which could eventually burn up the cells in
the battery, or burn up the primary windings in the ignition coil. Overcharging
of the electrical system could also burn up the electronic ignition control
module/unit (crank-trigger and
flywheel-trigger), burn out light bulbs, electric PTO clutch or any other
electrical accessories. As battery becomes fully charged, needle slowly moves
from positive side (+) to zero (0). Needle will stay on negative side (–)
if no charge goes to the battery. Or gauge will not show any charge at all
if charging system is not working. Easy 2-wire connections. Connect the positive
(+) terminal on back of gauge to the battery positive (+) post, and connect
the negative (–) terminal on back of gauge to the wire going to the
ignition switch that provides power to everything.
If the wires/connections are reversed, and if the charging system is in good
working condition, the gauge will show discharge (–) instead of charge
(+). Use minimum 12 gauge stranded wire. Non-lighted gauges. Each requires
2" diameter mounting hole and comes with mounting clamp and nuts.
[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
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Voltage Regulator, Voltage Rectifier/Regulators and Diodes - Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any of these parts or services. | [Top of Page]
 New 12 volt,
15 Amp Analog Voltage Regulator for Starter/Generators. If the charging system
continues to charge with no gradual moving back of the needle to zero on
an analog ammeter/amp gauge (if installed) while the
engine is running, this will put too much voltage through the coil, eventually
burning out the primary windings. Overcharging of the charging system could
also burn up the electronic ignition control module
(crank trigger), burn up the battery, burn
out light bulbs, electric PTO clutch and any other electrical accessories.
With the terminals facing you, they read: L (Lights) | Bat (Battery) | F
(Field), with A (Armature) on the bottom. L connects to the Lights (if equipped);
Bat connects to the ignition switch, which connects to the positive (+) post
on the battery; F connects to the Field terminal on the starter/generator;
and Armature connects to the Armature terminal on the starter/generator.
The frame of the regulator must be securely grounded to the tractor or equipment
through the mounting bolts. NOTE: Cannot be substituted for use with
the alternator/stator charging system.
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   Two Wire Rectifier
Diodes. The 3- and 4-amp diodes can be used in a non-regulated small engine
stator alternator 12 volt charging system to convert alternating current
(AC) to direct current (DC) for recharging the battery and/or to power
low-amperage DC electrical accessories, such as LED lights, small electric
motors, etc. Do not overload the amperage of the diode or it may burn up.
The 1 amp diode can be used to energize or excite the field windings in a
belt-driven automotive
alternator or a direct-drive 120/240 volt AC portable generator when powered
by a small engine so alternator/generator will produce electricity as
soon as engine starts and to prevent from shorting out ignition components.
A diode is not required for
filament light bulbs and/or an electric PTO clutch.
FYI - Briggs & Stratton engines have either one or two OEM alternator stators and they are joined together in two half circles under the flywheel. Some engines only come with one half stator. Each half produce 3 amps of power & 14 volts @ 3,600 RPM. If an engine comes with two stators joined together, one half produces AC, which is used to power the lights and electric PTO clutch. And the other half also produce AC, but is connected to a minimum 3 amp/14 volt diode, which is used to only recharge the battery. Under normal yard use, 3 amps is not enough to overcharge and burn up the battery. If both stator halves are wired together from the factory (as they are on certain engines), they will produce 6 amps of AC power and a 6 amp solid state electronic voltage rectifier/regulator is used to power the lights, electric PTO clutch and recharge the battery. |
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Brass Slide-On
Spade Wire Connector with Locking Tab/Tang. Replace damaged or broken OEM
spade wire connector in plastic connector housings used on most
Off/Ignition/Start key switches, voltage rectifier/regulators, etc. To remove
old connector from plastic housing, depress locking tab/tang from opposite
the wire end with a small flat screwdriver. Solder or use
terminal crimping pliers to install on wire. Slide new
connector into plastic housing in the correct position unto it locks in place.
Never was available from Kohler.
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 15/20 Amp 12
Volt
Solid State Electronic Voltage Rectifier/Regulators. If the charging
system continues to charge with no gradual moving back of the needle to zero
on an analog ammeter/amp gauge (if installed) while
the engine is running, this will put too much voltage through the coil,
eventually burning out the primary windings. Overcharging of the charging
system could also burn up the electronic ignition control module
(crank trigger), burn up the battery, burn
out light bulbs, electric PTO clutch and any other electrical accessories.
Each small and compact and have same mounting holes, and fit many 8 thru
24hp Kohler engine models with a 15 amp output alternator charging stator
under the flywheel. Each mounts in the rectangular hole in the flywheel shroud
with fins facing the flywheel for better cooling of unit. Terminals: "Three
in a row" (AC - BAT+ - AC). NOTE: The solid state electronic voltage
rectifier/regulators shown works the same. The orientation of the terminals
are for various applications. Also, the small size voltage rectifier/regulator
is to be mounted in the opening of the flywheel shroud so cool incoming air
from the flywheel will keep the regulator unit from overheating while in
operation. If it's mounted elsewhere with no cool air blowing over it, it
could burn up prematurely. And these cannot be substituted for use with the
starter/generator charging system.
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   15/20 Amp 12 Volt
Solid State Electronic Voltage Rectifier/Regulators. Each have same mounting
holes and fit many 8 thru 24hp Kohler engines with a 15 amp output alternator
charging stator under the flywheel. NOTE: If charging system continues to
charge with no gradual moving back of the needle to zero on the
ammeter/amp gauge (if installed) while the engine
is running, this will put too much voltage through the coil, eventually burning
out the primary windings. Overcharging of the charging system could also
burn up the electronic ignition control module
(crank trigger), burn up the battery, burn
out light bulbs, electric PTO clutch and any other electrical accessories.
NOTE: Cannot be substituted for use with the starter/generator charging
system.
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Generating/Charging Stators and Internal Flywheel Charging Magnets - Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any of these parts or services. | [Top of Page]
 15/20 Amp Stator
for 12 volt alternator charging systems. Use with either 15-20 amp solid
state electronic voltage rectifier/regulator above
È to power electrical accessories while
recharging battery, or power electrical accessories without a battery. Fits
most aluminum and cast iron block single and opposed (flathead) twin cylinder
Kohler engine models K141, K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, KT17/KT17
Series II, KT19/KT19 Series II, KT21, M8-M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20,
K482, K532, K582, CH1000, CH11-CH26, CH430, CH450, CH620-CH682, CH730-CH752,
CH940, CH980, CV1000, CV11-CV25, CV430-CV493, CV620-CV682, CV725, CV730-CV940,
CV960, CV980, ECV630-ECV680, ECV730-ECV749, ECV630-ECV680, ECV730-ECV749,
ECV850-ECV880, ECV940, ECV980, FCV740, KT610, KT620, KT715-KT745, LH430,
LH640-LH690, LH750, LH755, LV625-LV680, PCH680, PCH740, PCV680, PCV740, PCV850,
PCV860, SV470-SV480, SV530-SV590, SV600-SV620, SV710-SV740, SV810-SV840,
TH16, TH18, TH575, ZT710-ZT740, except various early John Deere with a single
cylinder Kohler engine with the 4-1/4"± charging stator. Use with flywheel
having six internal magnets, which will produce 15-20 amps at 3,600 RPM.
If used with a flywheel having factory-installed three magnets spaced equally
apart (rare), stator will only produce 7.5 amps at 3,600 RPM. Dimensions:
2-3/4" i.d. x 5-1/2" o.d. OEM Kohler part # 237878-S. NOTE: The 2-3/4"
i.d. x 5-1/2" o.d. 15 amp stator (part # 237879-S) for Kohler's Breakerless
Ignition is no longer available.
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  Internal Flywheel Magnets for Alternator Charging Systems.
Fits aluminum and cast iron block single and twin cylinder Kohler engine
models K141, K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, KT17, KT17 Series
II, KT19, KT19 Series II, M8, M10, M12, M14, M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20,
K482, K532, K582, CH1000, CH11-CH26, CH430, CH450, CH620-CH682, CH730-CH752,
CH940, CH980, CV1000, CV11-CV25, CV430-CV493, CV620-CV682, CV725, CV730-CV940,
CV960, CV980, ECV630-ECV680, ECV730-ECV749, ECV630-ECV680, ECV730-ECV749,
ECV850-ECV880, ECV940, ECV980, FCV740, KT610, KT620, KT715-KT745, LH430,
LH640-LH690, LH750, LH755, LV625-LV680, PCH680, PCH740, PCV680, PCV740, PCV850,
PCV860, SV470-SV480, SV530-SV590, SV600-SV620, SV710-SV740, SV810-SV840,
TH16, TH18, TH575, ZT710-ZT740, except various early John Deere with a single
cylinder Kohler engine with the 4-1/4"± charging stator, and larger
Tecumseh engines with an alternator charging system having the 5-1/2" diameter
stator. Magnet(s) may come in 3/4" or 7/8" height, but will work the same.
Comes with magnetic poles identified. Not available separate from Kohler
or Tecumseh. All magnets are used and in excellent condition.
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 10 Amp 12 Volt
Solid State Electronic Voltage Rectifier/Regulator for 4-5/8" diameter 10
amp charging stator below Ê. Terminals:
"Three in a row" (AC | BAT+ | AC). NOTE: Cannot be substituted for use
with the starter/generator charging system.
FYI: After several years of use an for reasons unknown (even to me), the 10 amp charging system is notorious for generating very few amps, about 3 amps more or less maximum at full governed engine speed, and I have no idea why. I think this is why the 10 amp stator system was a short-lived item from Kohler and it was replaced with the much more reliable 15/20 amp stator system, which is still in use today. |
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 10 Amp Stator
for 12 volt alternator charging systems. To be used with battery ignition
only. This will not work with Tecumseh Solid State or Kohler Breakerless
Ignition Systems. Requires a special flywheel (part # A-236864) with the
charging magnets embedded on an aluminum casing. Use with 10 amp solid state
electronic voltage rectifier/regulator above
È. Can be used to power electrical
accessories while recharging battery, or power electrical accessories without
a battery. Fits only John Deere garden tractors with a Tecumseh cast iron
block engine or Kohler engine models K241 w/specification #'s 46593 and 46608;
K301 w/specification #'s 47148, 47175, 47399 and 47419; K321 w/specification
#'s 60102, 60118, 60136 and 60136A. Dimensions: 2-3/4" i.d. x 4-5/8" o.d.
x 2-1/4" bolt pattern. Discontinued from Kohler. OEM Kohler part # 237065-S;
John Deere part #'s AM32073, AM32334 (w/o solid state ignition); replaces
Tecumseh part # 610761A (w/o solid state ignition). Not available in
aftermarket. L
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 10 Amp Stator with
Integrated Tecumseh Solid State or Kohler Breakerless Ignition Energizer
Coil. To be used with a Kohler or Tecumseh flywheel designed for a John Deere
garden tractor. Use with 10 amp solid state electronic voltage
rectifier/regulator above È. Stator
can be used to power electrical accessories while recharging battery, or
power electrical accessories without a battery. Fits John Deere garden tractors
with a cast iron block Tecumseh engine model VH80, VH100, HH80, HH100, HH120,
OH140, OH150, OH160 and OH180 with solid state ignition, and used on Kohler
engine models K241 w/specification #'s 46593 and 46608; K301 w/specification
#'s 47148, 47175, 47399 and 47419; K321 w/specification #'s 60102, 60118,
60136 and 60136A with Breakerless Ignition. Dimensions: 2-3/4" i.d. x 4-5/8"
o.d. x 2-1/4" bolt pattern. OEM Tecumseh part # 610761A; OEM Kohler part
# 2377870-S, John Deere part # AM31738. Not available in aftermarket.
L IMPORTANT: The
wire that comes from the stator under the flywheel for the Kohler Trigger
Module or Tecumseh Solid State Ignition Module generates about 250 volts
(serious) while the engine is running at full governored speed. Do not touch
this wire (terminal) with one bare hand and the engine itself with your other
hand while the engine is running! It is not needed for any of my crank-trigger
or flywheel-trigger electronic ignition systems. So snip off this wire or
tape up the terminal to prevent a short circuit or electrocution.
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 Recoil Starter
Cups w/internal notches, 5/8" hole, and with or without screen for Kohler
engine models K141, K161 and K181.
Recoil Starter Cup w/internal notches, 5/8" hole and without screen for Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321 and K341. OEM Kohler part # 235685-S.
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A-1 Miller's Computerized Stuska Water Brake Engine Dynamometer (Dyno) Service with DPM Data Logger Software to Test Horsepower and Torque! | [Top of Page]
For performance testing of 10-16hp
single cylinder Kohler stock or competition pulling engines at speeds up
to 12,000 RPM. The only dyno service for testing Kohler pulling engines in
central Missouri. Two uncontaminated fuel tanks with an electric fuel pump
- one for gas and another for methanol. Fully operational and 100% accurate,
customers can rent dyno time, fine tune and make adjustments or changes to
their engines to gain maximum horsepower and torque, and print-out the results
so their tractor(s) will be truly competitive on the track. With an engine
dyno, the puller can adjust their engine to get maximum horsepower and torque,
and gear their tractor appropriately to have an advantage over the competition.
NOTE: A fresh-built engine may not produce full power until it's broke-in.
This is when the valves wear-in with the seats to completely seal in the
compression. The rings will likely hold the compression, but the valves may
leak slightly until they wear into the seats. This is normal for all engines
and may take several hours or pulls to happen, then the valves will be able
to hold full compression. Lots of pullers tell A-1 Miller's after I've built
their engines that it seems to pull stronger every time they pull it.
Engine Dyno Rental Fee: $50.00 per hour run time from the moment the engine is started. No setup fee for Cub Cadet engines with a 3- or 6-pin/stud clutch driver. An adapter may need to be needed or fabricated for other makes and models of engines. Only engines with the narrow base oil pan can be tested. Engines with the wide base (tall) oil pan cannot be tested at this time. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]
Coming Soon - Detailed
Illustrated Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back and Self-Propelled
Garden Tractor Pulling Sled. FYI - The
professionally-built self-propelled pulling sled is the only one I've ever
built (click the picture to the right to see a larger image of this sled),
and I got it right the first time, with very few changes or modifications
that had to be made to it. I guess I'm just one of those kind of guys that
knows what he's doing. Pullers really like pulling our sled, too. They say
it's the best sled they've ever pulled. (Not bragging, just stating a fact.)
By the way - Track Master sled is engineered so well (by Brian Miller), that
other sled builders/owners have copied our well thought-out and proven design.
Anyway, I have lots of work to do in my shop and I work on the sled plans
in my spare time. As soon as my plans with an inventory list of parts to
use are perfected, I'll post the update in my websites with the prices of
the plans. Remember - Perfection takes time. If it's worth having, it's worth
waiting for. Also, I plan to acquire a bigger shop and may build high quality
garden tractor pulling sleds in the future to offer for sale. Please call
A-1 Miller's at 573-256-0313 (shop) or 573-881-7229 (cell; text or voice
message), or email A-1 Miller's at
pullingtractor@aol.com if interested.
- Brian Miller
If you would
like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website,
and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance and support,
please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank
Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak
slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm,
Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking
with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.
When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly
with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to
the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call
before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we
can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
[Return To Previous Paragraph,
Section or Website]
We Ship to Canada and Worldwide 
-
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent
by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged
item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service
Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal
Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S.
territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground
or equivalent services. We try to keep our shipping cost to customers within
reason. Therefore, we don't ship our products in a fancy-looking package
with our company name and/or logo on it because most customers will just
toss it in the trash after they remove the contents.
(When placing an order through PayPal, please provide a list of which
parts you need.)
To make a payment to A-1 Miller's through PayPal, go to PayPal's secure website ( https://www.paypal.com/ ) and click on Send and Request -> Pay for goods or services. Type in my email address, or copy and paste this: pullingtractor@aol.com, the amount and follow the directions. Be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment is for. After you've finished, PayPal will send A-1 Miller's an email notifying me that you have made a payment to A-1 Miller's for the product(s) or services and amount entered. Then I go to their website and direct PayPal to deposit the money in my bank account. And I will send the parts to you as soon as I receive your payment. But I may have to order some of the parts if they're not in stock, which should take a few days. In that case, I will send you the parts as soon as they come in. PayPal protects your financial privacy and security. With PayPal, privacy is built in. It's a way for you to pay without exposing their financial information.
FOR SALE: Professionally Built Self-Propelled Pulling
Sled for ATVs/UTVs, Garden Tractors & Small Wheel Mini Rods. $15,000.00
or best offer. Go here for information, YouTube videos and more pictures
of this sled: 
4 Terminal Solenoid/Relay, 12
volt, plastic body, universal mount. Suitable for lawn and garden equipment,
and stock competition pulling engines. Prevents from burning out a light-duty
manual starter switch and eliminates need for a heavy duty manual starter
switch in a custom wiring circuit. Intermittent duty. Use to temporarily
activate any maximum 80 amp capacity electrical accessory. If continually
energized for long period of time, plastic body may melt. Internally grounded
through mounting base. Studs: 10-32 UNF, 1/4-20 UNC. Grounded mounting base.
Wiring connections: Small terminal connects to starter switch or momentary
push button switch to energize solenoid. One large terminal connects to battery
positive (+) post, and the other large terminal connects to starter motor,
horn, kill switch motor, etc.
4 Terminal Starter Solenoid/Relay,
12 volt, Plastic Body, Universal Usage. Suitable for general lawn and garden
use, or high RPM competition pulling engines. Prevents from burning out a
manual light-duty switch and eliminates need for a heavy duty switch in a
custom wiring circuit. Intermittent duty. Use to temporarily activate any
maximum 150 amp capacity electrical accessory. If continually energized for
long period of time, plastic body may melt. Internally grounded through mounting
base. Wiring connections: One large terminal connects to battery positive
(+) post, and other large terminal connects to starter motor. The small
[S] terminal connects to starter switch or momentary push button switch
to energize solenoid, and other small [I] terminal connects to positive
(+) terminal on ignition coil to by-pass the ballast resistor or resistor
wire for points/condenser ignition, or connects to the Chrysler or Ford
electronic ignition control module/unit to give the coil a stronger spark
for faster engine start up. Studs: 10-32 UNF, 5/16-18 UNC.
3 Terminal Starter Solenoid/Relay,
12 volt, Metal Body, Universal Usage. Suitable for general lawn and garden
use, or high RPM competition pulling engines. Prevents from burning out a
manual light-duty switch and eliminates need for a heavy duty switch in a
custom wiring circuit. Continuous duty; can be used to activate any maximum
150 amp capacity electrical accessory for a long period of time. Internally
grounded through mounting base. Wiring connections: Small terminal connects
to starter switch or momentary push button switch, which connects to the
positive (+) battery post. And one large terminal connects directly to the
battery positive (+) post, and other large terminal connects directly to
the starter motor, horn, kill switch motor, etc. Studs: 10-32 UNF, 5/16-18
UNC.
4 Terminal Starter Solenoid/Relay,
12 volt, Metal Body, Universal Usage. Suitable for general lawn and garden
use, or high RPM competition pulling engines. Prevents from burning out a
manual light-duty switch and eliminates need for a heavy duty switch in a
custom wiring circuit. Continuous duty; can be used to activate any maximum
150 amp capacity electrical accessory for a long period of time. Isolated
base; solenoid is not internally grounded. Wiring connections: One small
terminal must be grounded to the engine or chassis, which is connected to
the negative (–) battery post, and the other small terminal connects
to the starter switch, which connects to the positive (+) battery post. It
doesn't matter which terminal is connected to the switch or ground. And one
large terminal connects directly to the battery positive (+) post, and other
large terminal connects directly to the starter motor, horn, kill switch
motor, etc. Studs: 5/16-18 NC, 10-32 UNF.
Most quality-made starter motors are designed to last the life of the engine.
Therefore, if a good starter burns up prematurely, then this means that it
has cranked the engine for too long at one time. All starters are actually
6 volt motors operating on 12 volts. This is what gives them so much torque
to crank the engine so fast and with ease. So if a starter motor is spun
too long (longer than 2 minutes), the excess voltage will burn up the wire
windings in the starter. The longer it's spun, the hotter it will get, which
causes the windings to get very hot, which causes the insulating/separating
varnish coating on the windings to melt. When the coating melts, the windings
make contact with each other and become shorted out, and you have a burned
up starter on your hands. That's why most owner's and repair manuals say
to never crank an engine longer than 2 minutes at a time without allowing
adequate time for the starter to cool before cranking it again. (If an engine
won't start within 2 minutes of cranking, then it obviously needs a major
tune-up or repair!)