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Enthusiasts Since 1996. Where Science and Common Sense Come Together for
Safety and Improved Engine/Tractor Performance
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Unsportsmanshiplike Conduct -
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There's a cheater in every sport, and competition tractor
pulling is no different. Honest pullers who ignore the cheater(s) are fools.
And when there's prize money involved, a fool and their money are soon parted.
Anyway, to make competition pulling a fun and fair sport for the entire family,
be protective of your equipment! While at the pulls, keep an eye on your
carburetor and fuel shut-off valve! When a
competitive or winning pulling tractor is left alone, it's been known that
certain disgruntled pullers
(sore losers
) belonging
to various associations/clubs, virtually anywhere and everywhere, will turn
the high speed air/fuel adjuster one way or the other, or close the
fuel shut-off valve to keep the engine from
running at it's full potential, or from running at all. This is one of the
easiest, dishonest and sneaky ways to retard or disable and sabotage a
competitor's tractor. All a cheater needs is an opportunity in an attempt
to gain an advantage on the track. This is also the fastest way for a pulling
association or club to gain a bad reputation and lose honest pullers. (Bad
news travels fast.) This type of dishonest behavior doesn't happen often,
but you need to be prepared if or when it does happen. To be prepared for
this unforeseeable event, it'll be a good idea to cover the entire carburetor
with a
drawstring bag, or better yet, cover the entire tractor
with a canvas or heavy blanket.
Keep an eye on your
kill switch plug, too! Always try to stay one step ahead of a
cheater.
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parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this
website.
  Use
a Remote Fuel Primer Bulb System to Start a Cold Engine -
Small Engine Remote Fuel Primer System
Kits. Safe to use and works flawlessly! Can be used on most general
lawn and garden tractors, competition garden pulling tractors, go-karts,
small motorized vehicles, or virtually any small engine lawn and garden or
snow removal equipment with a choke plate in the carburetor. Primer bulb
can be installed on pedestal, dashboard, instrument panel, engine control
panel, flywheel shroud, etc. Requires 1/4" mounting hole for primer bulb
assembly. Works with Carter or Kohler (OEM and aftermarket), Briggs &
Stratton, Tecumseh, Mikuni, Zenith, or virtually any carburetor with a float.
Works with pump gas, race gas, E85 or methanol fuels. The choice of professional
garden tractor pullers everywhere! With the fuel bowl atmospheric vent opening
plugged (air passageway from inside the float bowl to outside of carburetor),
then with one or two pushes of the primer bulb with your finger, air pressure
created within the float bowl forces fuel up through the main jet and out
the nozzle, creating a slight flooding condition inside the carburetor throttle
bore, allowing a cold engine to start quick. With this setup installed, the
choke plate and shaft is not needed and can be removed. No more binding of
a cable-operated choke and/or bent choke plate, or messy and unsafe "hand
choking" of the carburetor. Being the atmospheric vent opening will be plugged,
the fuel baffle splash shield
in the Carter or Kohler carburetor is not needed with this setup and will
serve no purpose whatsoever. Kit includes: New primer bulb assembly with
integrated 1/8" barbed fuel hose fitting and serrated mounting nut, 1/8"
I.D. x 3/16" O.D. x 2' length clear vinyl hose, loop-type clamp and 1/8"
diameter x 1" length brass tube.
Click or tap here for installation
instructions. NOTE: If an engine is hard to start, even with the choke
plate fully closed and tuned correctly, then it may need the valve clearances
reset and/or professional valve job performed. The reason some older engines
is hard to start is because the valve faces, especially the intake valve,
wears slightly away against the valve seat, and this will cause the clearance
between the valve stem and lifter to be lessened, which will prevent the
valve(s) from fully closing to trap adequate compression in the combustion
chamber [so the engine can start easier]. This remote fuel primer system
will not help an engine start easier if it needs a valve job.
[Return
To Previous Paragraph or Section]
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Fuel Primer Bulb Only. Includes serrated mounting nut. $7.00 each,
plus shipping.
-
High Quality Complete Universal Fuel Primer System Kit. Replaces OEM Kohler
part # 14 755 36-S. $11.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
XT Fuel Primer Kit. OEM Kohler part # 14 755 36-S. $18.05 each, plus
shipping.
How the Remote Fuel Primer System Works: The fuel primer bulb on a
snowblower engine connects directly to the float bowl and takes place of
the atmospheric vent hole in the float bowl. The bulb itself has a small
atmospheric vent hole. When the bulb is compressed (small atmospheric vent
hole sealed), this creates air pressure within the bulb, tubing and float
bowl, which force fuel up through the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube), creating
a slight flooding condition in the throttle bore. Thus, helping a cold engine
without a choke plate start much easier. With this system, the engine cannot
be "over-choked," which could foul the spark plug. The fuel primer system
can also be used as a manual accelerator pump when an engine hesitates to
rev up on its own.
With the original atmospheric vent opening (air passageway from inside the
float bowl area to outside of carburetor) in the carburetor plugged, a short
brass tube is inserted into a drilled hole in the float bowl area on the
side of the carburetor body, and with a small fuel hose connecting the carburetor
to the primer bulb assembly, which is mounted on the steering column support
pedestal.
How to Install and Use My Remote Fuel Primer System:
-
Remove the carburetor from the
engine, remove the float bowl and float.
-
Plug the atmospheric vent passageway (from inside the float bowl area to
outside of carburetor that's located at the 2:00 position next to the choke
plate) with a 1/4" Allen set screw. Cut some short threads for a 1/4" coarse
or fine thread x 1/4" length Allen set screw, and install the screw in the
opening. If there's a small hole to the right of the choke plate, plug this
hole with a 3-48 screw using
high strength liquid threadlocker. And if there's a
small hole drilled on the outside of the carburetor body, this will need
to be plugged with
JB Weld two-part epoxy or a short screw. See the photos
to the right ->. (The installed tube, hose and hole in the primer bulb
will be the new atmospheric vent for the float bowl.)
-
Be sure to use 150± P.S.I. compressed air with an
air blow gun nozzle to clear out the metal cuttings from
the entire carburetor.
-
Drill an 1/8" hole into the float bowl area just above the float fuel level
on the side of the carburetor body to install the 1/8" tube to connect the
primer hose. On the Carter or Kohler carburetor, this would be just above
the bowl seal and below the atmospheric vent opening (air passageway from
outside the carburetor to the float bowl area) on the right side of the
carburetor when viewed from the choke end. The drilled hole should be a press-fit
for the 1/8" tubing. Use
high strength liquid threadlocker to permanently secure
the tube in the hole then gently tap the tube in the hole with a small hammer
until it's flush with the inside of the float bowl area. See photo to the
right.
-
Reassemble the carburetor, and use a hammer to flatten the hole from inside
the float bowl on a hard, flat surface so when the bowl bolt is tightened
against the carburetor, it will place more pressure against the
neoprene
rubber O-ring seal and fuel baffle/splash shield to prevent an air leak (and
possible fuel leak). Reinstall the carburetor on the engine, and connect
the fuel line. FYI - The fuel baffle/splash shield prevents fuel inside
the float bowl from traveling up through the atmospheric vent opening (air
passageway into the float bowl) and into the throttle bore when the engine
is "moving around" or "moving up and down" severely, such as on a go-kart,
garden tiller or small all-terrain vehicle, which could cause the engine
to momentarily run rich on fuel.
-
Drill a 17/64" hole to install the primer bulb assembly someplace on the
tractor's steering column support pedestal within easy reach of the driver.
Mount the primer bulb on side of the pedestal so rain water and/or when
washing off tractor, water will not enter in the hole in the bulb and contaminate
the fuel in the carburetor.
-
Route the primer hose along the tractor so it won't get kinked, pinched or
damaged and away from moving parts and hot exhaust area. Then attach the
hose from the primer bulb assembly to the tube on the carburetor.
-
Fill carburetor with fuel, and press the primer bulb quickly a couple of
times with your finger to create pressure within the float bowl (be sure
to place a finger over the hole in the bulb), and at the same time, look
inside the carburetor. Fuel should squirt from the main nozzle and into the
throttle bore with each push. Now then the engine should be quick to start!
NOTE: It only takes a couple of pushes of the primer bulb to thoroughly
prime the carburetor to start the engine. Any more pushes, the carburetor
may become flooded and the engine could take longer to start! Another
useful thing about the fuel primer system is, this system can be used as
a manual accelerator pump if an engine hesitates to rev up, especially before
reaching its operating temperature (cold engine).
-
NOTE: If an engine is hard to start, even with the choke plate fully closed
and tuned correctly, then it may need a professional valve job performed
and valve clearances reset. The reason some older engines is hard to start
is because the valve faces, especially the intake valve, wears slightly away
against the valve seat, and this will cause the clearance between the valve
stem and lifter to be lessened, which will prevent the valve(s) from fully
closing to trap adequate compression in the combustion chamber [so the engine
can start easier]. This remote fuel primer system will not fix this type
of problem.
FYI - Most [cold] engines will not start when fuel is introduced directly
into the combustion chamber through the spark plug hole. Doing this only
results in a flooding condition and the engine may not start. Gas (or starting
fluid) needs to be mixed with incoming air through the carburetor intake
so the air can atomize the fuel (break down
into a fine mist) to burn more thoroughly so the engine will be able to start
quicker.
When removing the choke shaft, there's a tiny
(1/8" or 5/32") steel ball and small compression spring located at the 9:00
position when facing the choke end with the float area down. When the choke
shaft is removed, hold one finger over the screw hole and end of the choke
shaft hole to prevent the ball and spring from popping out and possibly getting
lost. By the way - the ball and spring is required only for hand-operation
of the choke plate to keep it in the open position on stand-alone engines
without a remote cable control, such as on a garden tiller, generator/welder,
air compressor, water pump, etc. The ball and spring is not needed if the
choke is remotely operated with a choke cable, such as on a garden tractor,
small motorized vehicle, etc. Replace these parts if they get lost so the
choke will stay open while the engine is running. But if the choke lever/plate
is operated by a remotely operated cable, such as on a lawn & garden
tractor, then these parts aren't needed and will serve no purpose whatsoever. |
Identification of Carter and Kohler Carburetors -
(Corrected and updated 3/11/21) The types of carburetors that's used on
Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161,
KV161,
L160/L161, L181, K181 and
M8 are as follows:
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The Carter
Model N #13 and #16 carburetors are designed specifically for Kohler
engine model K90 and K91 (which are the same engine), and certain low RPM
K141 engines. The throttle bore measures .810" diameter and the venturi is
.542" diameter. When used on a Kohler engine model K141, K160/K161, certain
KV161,
L160/L161, L181, K181 or M8, due to the smaller throttle
bore and restrictive venturi, and velocity of air that's required, the bigger
engine may not produce full power at 3,600 RPM. (It'll be the same as using
a
restrictor plate, or a small 2-barrel carburetor versus
a big 4-barrel carburetor on an automotive engine.) This carburetor came
on various other makes and models of engines, too. It was a popular carburetor
for its time. Measure the throttle bore with a
dial or digital caliper, and measure the venturi with a
plug gauge, such as a deep-well socket or round tubing of the right outside
diameter. The original Kohler (originally Carter) part numbers for this
carburetor are: A-220100, A-220574, A-220745, A-220777, C-220777, E-220517,
F-220762, F-230501, D-220451, G-220517, 46 053 03-S. Being this carburetor
is no longer made in the USA; Kohler part # 46 853 01-S), its replacement
is the Walbro WHL #36 or the aftermarket Carter-replicated carburetor.
-
The Carter Model N #18 carburetor is designed specifically for Kohler
engine model K141. The throttle bore measures .823" diameter and the venturi
is .550" diameter. When used on a Kohler engine model K90/K91, due to the
bigger venturi, the smaller engine may hesitate to rev up. And when used
on a Kohler engine model K160/K161, certain KV161,
L160/L161,
L181, K181 or M8, due to the smaller and restrictive venturi,
and velocity of air that's required, the bigger engine may not produce full
power at 3,600 RPM. (It'll be the same as using a
restrictor plate, or a small 2-barrel carburetor versus
a big 4-barrel carburetor on an automotive engine.) This carburetor came
on various other makes and models of engines, too. It too, was a popular
carburetor for its time. Measure the throttle bore with a
dial or digital caliper, and measure the venturi with a
plug gauge, such as a deep-well socket or round tubing of the right outside
diameter. The original Kohler (originally Carter) part numbers for this
carburetor are: A-231966, G-220517, 41 053 06-S. Being this carburetor is
no longer made (in the USA; Kohler part # 41 853 06-S), its replacement is
the Walbro WHL #36 or 44, or the aftermarket Carter-replicated carburetor.
-
The Carter Model N #20 carburetor is designed specifically for Kohler
engine models K160/K161. The throttle bore measures .823" diameter and the
venturi is .612" diameter. When used on a Kohler engine model K90/K91 or
K141, due to the bigger venturi, the smaller engine may hesitate to rev up.
And due to the smaller and restrictive venturi, and velocity of air that's
required, when used on a Kohler engine model K181,
L181 or M8, the
bigger engine may not produce full power at 3,600 RPM. (It'll be the same
as using a
restrictor plate, or a small 2-barrel carburetor versus
a big 4-barrel carburetor on an automotive engine.) This was a popular carburetor
for its time because it was also used on various other makes and models of
engines. Measure the throttle bore with a
dial or digital caliper, and measure the venturi with a
plug gauge, such as a deep-well socket or round tubing of the right outside
diameter. The original Kohler (originally Carter) part numbers for this
carburetor are: A-230694, A-230798, A-231448, B-231231, B-231450, B-231469,
B-231480, C-231738, E-231488, E-231489, F-230350, F-230501, F-230502, G220517,
G-230500, 41 053 06-S, 41 053 14-S. Being these carburetors are no longer
made (in the USA; Kohler part # 41 853 06-S), its replacement is the Walbro
WHL #44 or the aftermarket Carter-replicated carburetor.
-
The Carter Model N #22 carburetor is designed specifically for Kohler
engine models
K181,
L181 and M8.
The throttle bore measures .823" diameter and the venturi is .682" diameter.
Due to the larger and unrestrictive venturi, and velocity of air that's required,
when used on a
K181,
L181 or M8, the
bigger engine will produce full power at 3,600 RPM. But when used on a K90/K91,
K141 or K160/K161, due to the bigger venturi, the smaller engine may hesitate
to rev up because it will not create the velocity of air or air charge required
to sufficiently draw/suction fuel through the main nozzle at 3,600 RPM. Measure
the throttle bore with a
dial or digital caliper, and measure the venturi with a
plug gauge, such as a deep-well socket or round tubing of the right outside
diameter. The original Kohler (originally Carter) part numbers for this
carburetor are: A-230798, A-231741, A-234641, B-231739, F-230501, F-230502,
F-230350, G-221517, 41 053 01-S, 41 053 04-S, 41 053 05-S, 41 053 06-S, 41
053 18-S, 41 053 20-S. Not all later Carter Model N carburetors with a .682"
venturi have the "22" embossed in the choke end of the carburetor. Being
these carburetors are no longer made (in the USA; Kohler part #'s 41 853
09, 41 853 07-S, 41 853 10-S or 41 853 11-S; different variations between
carburetors, such as design of choke shaft lever, etc.), its replacement
is the Walbro WHL #44 or the aftermarket Carter-replicated carburetor.
-
High Quality Aftermarket
Carter Model N-Replicated Carburetor. The throttle bore in this particular
carburetor measures .811" diameter and the venturi is .588" diameter. This
is an alternative universal low cost carburetor that can be used on Kohler
engine models
K181,
L181 or M8. Due
to the larger size of the venturi, this carburetor may not work correctly
on the Kohler models K90/K91, K141 or K160/K161 engines. Irrelevant Carter
or Kohler part number(s).
FYI - When
Edelbrock bought out the automotive division of
Carter Carburetor Corporation sometime before 1984, Carter
sold their line of small engine carburetors to Kohler Engines in 1985. And
for some reason, Kohler retained the Carter Model N wording on the #13, #16,
#18, #20 and #22 carburetors. But on the bigger Carter #26 and #30 single
cylinder engine carburetors, Kohler redesigned (and actually improved) the
throttle shaft with an integrated lever; incorporated the idle speed adjustment
screw w/spring in the carburetor body; redesigned the size of holes in the
choke plates according to engine size; and made slots in the carburetor body
for easier installation and removal on and off the engine. And Kohler included
two additional air cleaner mounting screw holes for the Kohler AQS "Quiet
Line" engine models K241-K361. Everything else remained the same on the Carter
and Kohler carburetors, with the exception of various redesigned choke levers.
Kohler didn't retain the Carter #28 carburetor because it's too similar to
the #30 carburetor. But the #28 carburetor is available only in aftermarket.
Although the #26 and #28 carburetors are available in aftermarket, for some
reason, the #30 carburetor is not available in aftermarket. Six different
variations of the Carter or Kohler carburetors was made for the Kohler K-series
K241 through K361 engines, KT-series, and the K482, K532 and K582 engines.
(NOTE: If it's rebuildable or repairable, please do not discard your Carter
or Kohler carburetor or other OEM Kohler parts. Most discontinued Kohler
parts are hard to find nowadays, and nothing works better than the original
part(s) that came on the engine.)
The size number (diameter of
throttle bore) for the Carter or Kohler carburetors is embossed inside the
upper part of the choke end, just above the venturi. But not all Kohler
carburetors have a number embossed. In this case, the throttle bore (throttle
plate area) will need to be measured to determine the exact size of the
carburetor. The size number refers to the amount of air that can flow through
the carburetor.
The carburetor with 26 embossed in the choke end has a 26mm or 1.07" diameter
throttle bore. (26mm converts close to 1.070"). The carburetor with 28 embossed
in the choke end has a 28mm diameter or 1.17" throttle bore. (28mm converts
close to 1.170".) And the carburetor with 30 embossed in the choke end has
a 30mm or 1.200" diameter throttle bore (30mm converts close to 1.200".)
For precision, when measuring the throttle bore to determine the size, it's
best to use a
dial or digital caliper.
FYI: Some people advertise online that the carburetor for Kohler engine
models K241, M10, K301 or M12 can also be used on Kohler engine models K321,
M14, K341, M16 and K361. But I know for a fact that if the K241, M10, K301
or M12 carburetor is used on a K321, M14, K341, M16 or K361, which produces
14hp, 16hp and 18hp, respectively, with the correct carburetors, would produce
about 12hp, 14hp and 15hp, and make less torque, because the engine would
be drawing less air through the smaller carburetor to produce not as much
compression. I guess the seller don't know the difference between these
carburetors, because they look virtually identical on the outside. Or maybe
the seller figures what most people don't know, makes them more money.
The carburetors used on Kohler engine models K241, M10, K301, M12, K321,
M14, K341, M16 and K361 are different. They may appear the same on the outside,
but be very different on the inside. The K241, M10, K301 and M12 engines
require a carburetor with a 1.07" throttle bore and venturi that measures
.812" diameter. The K321, M14 engines requires a carburetor with a 1.2" throttle
bore and venturi that measures .937" diameter. The K341, M16 engines requires
a carburetor with a 1.2" throttle bore and venturi that measures 1.000" diameter.
And the K361 engine requires a carburetor with a 1.250" throttle bore and
venturi that measures 1.062" diameter. If the wrong carburetor is used on
any particular engine, the engine may not run right and not produce full
power. The carburetors that's used on various models of Kohler engines are
as follows:
-
The first carburetor is a number "26". It was originally designed and
manufactured by the
Carter Carburetor Corporation, then later manufactured
by Kohler Engines. It has a 26mm or 1.07" diameter throttle bore and the
venturi is .812" diameter. It's designed to be used on Kohler engine models
K241, M10, K301, M12, K3303/K331, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19
(first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. The
carburetor for the single cylinder engines is discontinued from Kohler
L, but available in aftermarket
J. The replacement carburetor from Kohler is
a Walbro WHG #52. OEM Kohler part # 47 853 23-S.
-
And yet there's another type of Kohler #26 carburetor designed specifically
for Kohler engine models K482 and K532. It has a 26mm or 1.07" diameter throttle
bore and the venturi is .812" diameter. The throttle shaft is positioned
horizontally and the idle fuel mixture screw is positioned directly on top
of the carburetor body instead of at an angle on the side. This carburetor
is discontinued from Kohler L, but available
in aftermarket J.
-
The next carburetor is a rare one, it's a number "28". This carburetor was
originally designed and manufactured by the
Carter Carburetor Corporation, and was used on the
early Kohler engine model K321 with specification suffix "A", "B" or "C"
(with a smaller 1-1/8" exhaust valve) and on certain early low RPM K341 engines.
It has a 28mm/1.17" diameter throttle bore and the venturi is .937" diameter.
It may have the part number 236636 stamped on the flange. It has been
discontinued by Carter many years ago. L
The replacement is OEM Kohler part # 45 053 20-S. Which is the fully adjustable
Kohler #30 carburetor as described below. The Walbro WHG #60 or #64 replacement
is OEM Kohler part # 47 853 30-S. By the way - if there's no numbers anywhere
on the carburetor body, then it's definitely a aftermarket carburetor. Because
Carter, Kohler and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on the flange of all
their carburetors. FYI - In 1985, Carter sold their line of small engine
carburetors to Kohler Engines. After 1985, the #28 carburetor was discontinued,
and Kohler installed their #30 carburetor on ALL of the later K321 and K341
engines.
Also, after 1985, Kohler
gave the K321 engine a larger 1-3/8" exhaust valve and made the intake port
larger in diameter. These are engines with specification suffix "D" and later.
The larger exhaust valve , bigger intake port and bigger #30 carburetor allows
for more air to enter and exit out of the combustion chamber so the engine
will produce full 14hp at 3,600 RPM. By the way - The early K321 engine with
the small intake port and small exhaust valve make a good stock 4,000 RPM
stock competition pulling engine, but the later K321 engine with the big
intake port and big exhaust valve make an excellent open RPM competition
pulling engine.
-
The third carburetor is a number "30". It was originally designed and
manufactured by the
Carter Carburetor Corporation, then later manufactured
by Kohler Engines. It is used on the later model K321, M14 (later K321's,
meaning with the 1-3/8" diameter exhaust valve; the early K321's had the
1-1/8" exhaust valve), K341, M16 and K582 engines. It has a 30mm or 1.200"
diameter throttle bore and the venturi is 1.000" diameter. This original
fully adjustable Kohler #30 carburetor with the 1.2" throttle bore (OEM Kohler
part # 45 053 20-S) and the Walbro WHG #60, #64 replacement carburetor OEM
Kohler part # 47 853 30-S) for the K321, M14 and K341, M16 engines are
discontinued from Kohler.
-
There's another #30 carburetor
designed specifically for the Kohler engine model K582. The throttle shaft
is positioned horizontally and the idle fuel mixture screw is directly on
top of the carburetor body instead of at an angle on the side. This OEM Kohler
carburetor is discontinued from Kohler L, but
is available in aftermarket as the Kohler-replicated fully adjustable #28
carburetor with a 1.17" throttle bore J. FYI:
Lots of people advertise online that the carburetor for the K482 and K532
can also be used on the K582. But I know for a fact that if the K482 and
K532 carburetor is used on the K582, which produces 24hp with the correct
carburetor, would produce about 21hp and make less torque, because the engine
would be drawing less air through the smaller carburetor to produce not as
much compression. I guess the seller don't know the difference between these
carburetors, because they look virtually identical on the outside. Or maybe
the seller figures what most people don't know, makes them more money.
-
Lastly, there's another type of Kohler #30 carburetor. Its throttle bore
measures 32mm/1.25" and the venturi is 1.062" diameter. Otherwise, it's identical
in every other way to the (1.2") #30 carburetor above
È. It's used only on Kohler engine model
K361. This carburetor is discontinued from Kohler and is not available in
aftermarket L. However, The carburetor for
the K341 engine (Kohler part # 45 053 20-S), which have a venturi diameter
of 1", can be used on the K361 engine, but the venturi will need to be bored
to 1.062" so the K361 will produce full power at 3,600 RPM.
-
NOTE: If a too large of a carburetor is used on a smaller engine, not
enough velocity (rapid movement) of air can be drawn through the carburetor
at higher RPM. Therefore, the insufficient amount of moving air cannot draw
(vacuum) enough fuel from the main fuel nozzle to sufficiently feed the engine.
The exception of this rule is if the engine has oversize valves (larger than
factory-installed valves), then there should be enough vacuum to draw sufficient
amount of air through the carburetor.
By the way - the part number of all Kohler-made and Walbro carburetors are
stamped on the right side of the mounting flange. Don't refer to the numbers
just below the fuel inlet port. They represent nothing that I know of. Click
here to identify a Kohler or Walbro carburetor and matching parts:
Kohler
Carburetor Reference Manual TP-2377-E.pdf. If there's no numbers anywhere
on the carburetor body, then it's definitely an aftermarket carburetor. Because
Carter, Kohler and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on the flange of all
their carburetors.
Airflow / CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) -
-
The venturi in a stock Carter or Kohler #26 carburetor measures .808" diameter
and flows 74 CFM. With the venturi 100% bored-out (1.07" straight-through
throttle bore), it will flow a minimum 98 CFM, which is approximately 1/3
greater or 32% increase in airflow.
-
The venturi in a stock Carter #28 carburetor measures .937" diameter and
flows 86 CFM. With the venturi 100% bored-out (1.17" straight-through throttle
bore), it will flow a minimum 107 CFM, which is approximately .244 greater
or 25% increase in airflow.
-
The venturi in a stock Carter or Kohler #30 carburetor measures 1.000" diameter
and flows 92 CFM. With the venturi 100% bored-out (1.2" straight-through
throttle bore), it will flow a minimum 110 CFM, which is approximately .309
greater or 31% increase in airflow.
-
A Carter or Kohler #26, #28 or #30 carburetor with a .995" bored-out venturi
will flow approximately 91 CFM, and with a 1" bored-out venturi, it will
flow approximately 92 CFM.
-
The venturi in a stock Kohler engine model K361 #30 carburetor measures 1.062"
diameter and flows 97 CFM. With the venturi 100% bored-out (1.25"
straight-through throttle bore), it will flow a minimum 114 CFM, which is
approximately .175 greater or 18% increase in airflow.
-
FYI - A bored-out venturi and reworked carburetor is when it's modified
for maximum performance for competition pulling only. And a #26 carburetor
with a 100% bored-out venturi will flow more air and out-perform a stock
(non-bored) #28 or #30 carburetor at open RPM/wide open throttle operation.
FYI - The throttle bore in the Carter or Kohler #26/1.07" carburetors
can be bored to 1.17" (#28 size) or 1.2" (#30 size), and the main jet/nozzle
(emulsion tube) will still bottom out against the throttle bore, and of course,
a 1.17" or 1.2" throttle shaft and plate would need to be used. But the boring
process will break through the idle fuel mixing well (the idle progression
holes and the welch plug hole) that's next to the throttle plate. Modifications
to this area would need to be made by threading in an 1/8" Allen pipe plug
where the welch plug is (or was), and drilling and installing a small brass
or copper tube from the idle fuel mixture adjuster screw down into the float
bowl, next to the float, with enough clearance so it won't interfere with
the movement of the float. A 1/4-28 UNF x 3/4" thread length bolt will also
need to be installed where the high speed air/fuel needle adjuster is (was)
to block off a vacuum leak to will occur with the modifications of the idle
air/fuel mixing well. Actually, it would be MUCH easier and less cost effective
to just convert either a Carter or Kohler #28 or #30 carburetor for high
performance use and not having to do anything to modify the idle fuel
passageway.
Boring-out of the venturi in the carburetor alone will not help to increase
engine performance. To increase the overall airflow in and out of the combustion
chamber for improved engine performance, and if sanctioning club's rules
allow this, the intake (and exhaust) port runners must be enlarged, too.
This is called "porting an engine." The [stock size] valves will also need
to be reworked and undercut to increase airflow. Or larger reworked and undercut
valves and a cam with more lift and duration will need to be used.
For competition pulling, carburetor design and size depends on port sizes,
valve sizes, if the intake valve and seat have 30º/31º angles and
undercut heads, and the cam profile (lift and duration) is important. If
an engine has stock ports, valves and cam, a plain stock carburetor can be
used. But if the ports and valves have been reworked for more airflow, and
a bigger cam is going to be used, then a bored-out carburetor with a .995"
or 1" venturi can be used for best performance. A bored-out venturi and reworked
carburetor is when the carburetor is modified for maximum performance for
general yard and garden use, and/or for competition pulling.
The 26mm carburetor obviously has a smaller throttle bore. Therefore, is
restricted as to how much air can flow through it, even with the venturi
removed. It'll work excellent on a hot K241 or mild K301 engine, but the
larger 28mm and 30mm carburetors flows more air, 7.7% more for the 28mm,
and 15.5% more for the 30mm. Which are ideal for a hot K301 and larger engines
with porting, polishing, bigger valves and a big cam. If you feel that a
single 30mm carburetor won't flow enough air for your particular engine,
then either a "Super Carb," Dellorto, Mikuni, S&S Super D or twin Kohler
carburetor setup (on a "Y" intake) should be used. If you have a K321 Kohler
engine, and you can't find a #28 or #30 carburetor, then a Carter or Kohler
#26 carburetor will work just fine for general lawn and garden use. Personally,
I ran a stock Kohler #26 on the K321 Kohler engine that's on my 6,000 lb.
self-propelled pulling sled for 10 years and the engine didn't lack any power
whatsoever.
Identification and Information About Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 Carburetors
-
The Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64
carburetors originally come on all Magnum engines. These carburetors are
direct replacements for the Kohler carburetors. The Walbro #52 carburetor
has a throttle bore diameter of 1.07" and is designed for use on models K241,
M10, K301, M12, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design),
KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20 engines. And the Walbro
#60 or #64 carburetor have a throttle bore diameter of 1.2" and is designed
for the K321, M14, K341, M16 engines, and being the 1.25" Kohler carburetor
that was originally designed for the K361 engine is longer available, the
only option is to use the Walbro #60 or #64 carburetor.
The older Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors are reliable and they seem
to last a long time before requiring service. Most older Walbros are worth
rebuilding, because the float valve seats are made of hardened solid bronze,
which is actually harder than cast iron. They were manufactured back in the
day when most business owners took pride in their products and offered their
customers a quality product.
But the newer Walbro carburetors, especially the ones that come on recently-built
aluminum block small air-cooled engines, are notorious for leaking gas after
several years of use. Although overhaul/rebuild carburetor kits are available,
it really does no good to rebuild them and install a new fuel inlet valve
because the float valve seat is made of soft brass, which erodes with use
due to microscopic particles of dirt/debris that pass through the filtering
material in the fuel filter, and in most Walbro carburetors, the seat is
not replaceable. The fuel inlet seat in older Walbro carburetors are made
of hardened compressed bronze, which is actually harder than cast iron. There
is no indication or records of when Walbro made the change from the hard
seat to the soft seat.
The fine mesh filter screen
and filtering material in fuel filters can only block certain size of dirt
and debris from entering the carburetor. Any extremely tiny particles that
can pass through the fuel filter will build up in the bottom of the float
bowl and can eventually clog the main fuel jet. Lightweight and suspended
particles in the fuel of the float bowl gets sucked up through the main jet
and is burned in the combustion chamber. The best way to remove built-up
stuck and stubborn debris from inside the float bowl is to use a 2" brass
wire cup brush (shown to the right ->) with a hand-held power drill, and
then use 150± P.S.I. compressed air with an
air blow gun nozzle to clear out the debris from the main
jet hole and clear out the entire float bowl area of the carburetor. On very
rare occasions, a hair can pass through a fine mesh fuel filter screen and
become lodged (trapped) between the float valve and inlet seat, causing the
carburetor to slightly flood with gas. When this happens, the hair can be
successfully removed with 150± P.S.I. compressed air and an air blow
gun nozzle and the same float valve and seat can be reused because chances
are, they will not be damaged.
To put it in plain English: If your Walbro carburetor doesn't leak gas
out the choke end, but need an overhaul/rebuild, then it may be worthwhile
to install a new kit. But if it does leak gas, then I doubt that a new float
valve will fix the problem. Your only options are: install a
fuel shut-off valve and turn off the fuel every
time the engine is not in use, or install a rebuilt Carter or Kohler K-series
carburetor.
About 90% of small engine carburetors are manufactured by Walbro nowadays,
and I don't think that one is better than the other. The trick to getting
the soft brass seat (and needle/float valve) to last longer is to use a fuel
filter with a very fine mesh or pleated paper element. The finer, the better.
Because it's the microscopic dirt/debris/grit that passes through the filter
that causes the seat (and needle/float valve) to erode and wear. And every
pressed-in brass seat that I've replaced ALWAYS leaked gas. There's just
no way to get them to seal with the carburetor body, not even with
high strength liquid thread locker.
The only problem using a Walbro on a pulling tractor or for high performance
application is they can't be bored-out or modified in any way because the
throttle bore wall (where the venturi is located) is too thin. Therefore,
they're limited to how much air can flow through them. The US government
EPA laws required that Kohler and all other small engine manufacturers redesign
their carburetors so the engine will produce less air pollution. So they
started using a redesigned emissions-controlled, EPA-approved Walbro carburetor
with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet. This is to prevent people from setting
the air/fuel ratio too rich and create more air pollution. The older-designed
Walbros that have an adjustable main jet, which is located on the lower right
side of the carburetor, are still available new. main jets of various sizes
are available for most carburetors with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet so
the engine will run correctly depending on the altitude level,
atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine will
be used.
A small engine with a fixed, non-adjustable high speed main jet carburetor
is supposed to run at a maximum of 3,200 RPM. If the RPM is set higher, the
air/fuel mixture will lean out (too much air and not enough fuel), resulting
in the engine overheating, which will eventually cause the cylinder head
to burn-out, or premature wear to the piston and rings, resulting in the
engine burning crankcase oil. The way around this is to drill out the high
speed main jet a few thousandths of an inch to give the engine more fuel.
But only do this if it's absolutely necessary! If an engine lacks sufficient
power at 3,200 RPM, then it obviously needs a professional valve job performed
and/or major tune-up.
(Added 7/18/20) If a small engine cylinder head is burned
out (usually close to the exhaust valve), if it's burned out where the gasket
seals, as long as there's no cracks in the head, it can be successfully welded
up, machined flat, the bolt hole redrilled and be put back into service.
The following items are what causes cylinder head burn-out...
-
Loose head bolts or nuts (with studs). Always torque head bolts or nuts
in the correct sequence and to the proper torque value. Apply
high temperature/high strength liquid threadlocker on threads
of studs to prevent them from loosening in the engine block.
-
Head warpage caused by clogged cooling fins (grass, debris, etc.), or head
milled too thin, which will create an air gap between the head bolts or
nuts/studs.
-
Too lean of carburetor high speed air/fuel mixture at full governed speed.
-
Severely worn throttle shaft in carburetor. This will lean out the high speed
air/fuel mixture at full governed speed. (A new bronze bushing will need
to be installed, and a new throttle shaft may need to be installed as
well.)
-
High speed air/fuel mixture set too lean on a Carter, Kohler or fully adjustable
Walbro carburetor.
-
If engine has a Walbro carburetor with a fixed/non-adjustable high speed
main jet and was running above 3,200 RPM, this will severely lean out the
high speed air/fuel mixture. (This is a common thing with the fixed high
speed main jet Walbro carburetors).
-
Vacuum leak at the carburetor mounting gasket, resulting in a lean air/fuel
mixture.
Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors work great for ordinary lawn and
garden equipment, general lawn work and they're perfect for basic stock low
RPM/low performance pulling tractors with an engine that's governed to a
maximum of 3,200 RPM with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet, or 3,600 RPM with
a fully adjustable main jet. A carburetor with a fixed/non-adjustable main
jet is limited to just 3,200 RPM and should never be operated faster for
an extended length of time. Although the venturi cannot be bored-out on a
Walbro, they work equally as well as the older Carter or Kohler carburetors
when used on a stock engine. The main jet in the newer Walbro WHG #52, #60
and #64 carburetors are calibrated at the factory to provide the engine with
just the right amount of fuel at 3,200 RPM. Therefore, the fixed/non-adjustable
main jet inside the carburetor cannot be replaced with an adjustable one.
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If a small engine cylinder head is burned out (usually close to the exhaust
valve), as long as there's no cracks in the head, it can be successfully
welded up, machined flat, the bolt hole redrilled and be put back into service.
-
Professionally weld-up burned-out area in cylinder head, machine flat ,and
bolt hole redrilled. $60.00 welding and labor each, plus return shipping
& handling.
NOTE - If it's repairable, please do not discard your cylinder head or
other OEM Kohler parts. Most discontinued Kohler parts in good,
usable/rebuildable condition are hard to find nowadays, and nothing works
better than the original part(s) the engine was designed for. |
Carter or Kohler or Walbro Fully Adjustable main jet Carburetors VS. Walbro
Fixed/Non-Adjustable Main Jet Carburetor RPM to Horsepower specifications
- By the way - running a small engine at 3,600 RPM will NOT shorten
the life of the engine.
-
A Kohler K141 factory stock engine with a Carter or Walbro fully adjustable
main jet carburetor and top speed set at 3,600 RPM, will produce 6¼hp.
But with a Walbro fixed/non-adjustable main jet carburetor and top speed
set at 3,200 RPM, it'll produce 5.6hp.
-
A Kohler K160/K161, KV161 and
L160/L161 factory
stock engine with a Carter or Walbro fully adjustable main jet carburetor
and top speed set at 3,600 RPM, will produce 6.6hp. But with a Walbro
fixed/non-adjustable main jet carburetor and top speed set at 3,200 RPM,
it'll produce 5.9hp.
-
A Kohler K181,
L181 or M8 factory stock engine with a Carter or Walbro fully adjustable
main jet carburetor and top speed set at 3,600 RPM, will produce 8hp. But
with a Walbro fixed/non-adjustable main jet carburetor and top speed set
at 3,200 RPM, it'll produce 7.1hp.
-
A Kohler K241 or M10 factory stock engine with a Carter or Kohler or Walbro
fully adjustable main jet carburetor and top speed set at 3,600 RPM, will
produce 10hp. But with a Walbro fixed/non-adjustable main jet carburetor
and top speed set at 3,200 RPM, it'll produce 8.9hp.
-
A Kohler K301 or M12 factory stock engine with a Carter or Kohler or Walbro
fully adjustable main jet carburetor and top speed set at 3,600 RPM, will
produce 12hp. But with a Walbro fixed/non-adjustable main jet carburetor
and top speed set at 3,200 RPM, it'll produce 10.7hp.
-
A Kohler K321 or M14 factory stock engine with a Carter or Kohler or Walbro
fully adjustable main jet carburetor and top speed set at 3,600 RPM, will
produce 14hp. But with a Walbro fixed/non-adjustable main jet carburetor
and top speed set at 3,200 RPM, it'll produce 12.4hp.
-
A Kohler K341 or M16 factory stock engine with a Carter or Kohler or Walbro
fully adjustable main jet carburetor and top speed set at 3,600 RPM, will
produce 16hp. But with a Walbro fixed/non-adjustable main jet carburetor
and top speed set at 3,200 RPM, it'll produce 14.2hp.
-
A Kohler MV16 opposed twin cylinder engine with a Kohler or Walbro fully
adjustable main jet carburetor and top speed set at 3,600 RPM, the engine
will produce 16hp. But with a Walbro fixed/non-adjustable main jet carburetor
and top speed set at 3,200 RPM, it'll produce 14.2hp.
-
A Kohler M18 or MV18 opposed twin cylinder engine with a Kohler or Walbro
fully adjustable main jet carburetor and top speed set at 3,600 RPM, will
produce 18hp. But with a Walbro fixed/non-adjustable main jet carburetor
and top speed set at 3,200 RPM, it'll produce 16hp.
-
A Kohler KT17 or KT17 Series II opposed twin cylinder engine with a Kohler
or Walbro fully adjustable main jet carburetor and top speed set at 3,600
RPM, will produce 17hp. But with a Walbro fixed/non-adjustable main jet
carburetor and top speed set at 3,200 RPM, it'll produce 15.1hp.
-
A Kohler KT19 or KT19 Series II opposed twin cylinder engine with a Kohler
or Walbro fully adjustable main jet carburetor and top speed set at 3,600
RPM, will produce 19hp. But with a Walbro fixed/non-adjustable main jet
carburetor and top speed set at 3,200 RPM, it'll produce 16.9hp.
-
A Kohler M20 or MV20 opposed twin cylinder engine with a Kohler or Walbro
fully adjustable main jet carburetor and top speed set at 3,600 RPM, will
produce 20hp. But with a Walbro fixed/non-adjustable main jet carburetor
and top speed set at 3,200 RPM, it'll produce 17.8hp.
Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors with a fixed/non-adjustable main
jet are designed with emission controls in mind to run leaner to create less
air pollution. However, the main problem with most Walbros having a
fixed/non-adjustable main jet is during cooler weather operation. During
cool weather, and running at 3,200 RPM, the engine will sometimes run too
lean on fuel and operate erratically. To fix this, first of all, make sure
the hole (orifice) in the main jet is not partially clogged. If it is, use
a
carburetor jet cleaner wire set or an
oxy-acetylene welding torch tip cleaner to clear any debris
that may be lodged in the hole. IMPORTANT:
When cleaning the hole (orifice) in the main jet, use a wire cleaner of the
correct size, and be careful not to enlarge the hole, or the engine may run
too rich on fuel! This cannot be undone! Then use 150±
P.S.I. compressed air with an
air blow gun nozzle to clear out any dirt/debris. If the
engine still runs too lean on fuel, simply enlarge the hole (orifice) in
the main jet a few thousandths of an inch. Then use 150± P.S.I. compressed
air with an air blow gun nozzle to clear out any metal particles. Be careful
not to enlarge the hole (orifice) in the main jet too much, or the engine
will run rich on fuel! The hole (orifice) diameter in the OEM factory
main jet for 100% gasoline is 3/64" (.047"). If necessary, enlarge the main
jet and fuel inlet holes with a #55 (.052") drill bit. That's a .0052"
difference. After doing this, for cool weather, the engine should run better,
last longer and produce more power. But don't enlarge the hole (orifice)
in the main jet too much! A too big of a hole (orifice) will cause an engine
to run too rich on fuel, making it blow black smoke out the exhaust and possibly
fouling the spark plug. If the hole (orifice) is made too large, the carburetor
will be useless for gasoline, and E85 fuel must be used. But if an engine
is going to be used only during warm weather and if it runs okay [during
warm weather], don't enlarge the hole (orifice) in the main jet.
On the newer carburetors with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet, the hole (orifice)
in the main jet may need to be enlarged .002"-.003" to give the engine a
little more fuel so it'll run better at higher RPM. Otherwise, the engine
could "burn up" or wear out prematurely due to the lean air/fuel mixture.
I have an assortment of tiny drill bits that I use on our customer's lawn
& garden equipment carburetors.
A new
style Walbro carburetor with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet should never
be used on a non-governed (wide-open throttle) engine or on an engine that's
going to turn at 3,200 RPM! The reason for this is because if an engine operates
faster with a carburetor having a fixed/non-adjustable main jet, it'll run
too lean on fuel at high RPM (it'll draw much more air than fuel), which
will cause the combustion chamber to overheat and the excessive heat will
likely damage the piston and rings and possibly warp the cylinder head and/or
exhaust valve or even crack the cast iron engine block.
A lean fuel mixture can also melt away part of the
aluminum in the combustion chamber of an aluminum block engine.
The size number on the Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors is embossed
inside the carburetor and can be seen by looking inside the upper part of
the choke end, just above the venturi. A "52" carburetor has a 26mm diameter
throttle bore, which converts closely to 1.024 inches (26 ÷ 25.4 = 1.024"),
but actually measures 1.07".
And being the venturi in the
old-style Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors used on Kohler
engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, KV161,
L160/L161,
L181, K181 can't be bored-out either, the only option for pulling
competitively with these is to fabricate an adapter to fasten to the intake
port on the engine block and use a #52 Walbro or #26 Carter or Kohler carburetor.
The best way to determine which engine any particular carburetor is made
for is to measure the diameter of the throttle bore. Because a set of numbers
that's stamped on the carburetor body mean nothing, not even to Kohler Engine
dealers. If a carburetor measures .822" (13/16"), then it's designed for
the K141, K160/K161,
L160/L161,
L181, K181 engines. If it measures 1.07", then it's for the 10hp
or 12hp engines. And if it measures 1.17" or 1.2", it's for a K321, K341
or K361 engine.
The Wrong Type of Choke Lever!
Whenever I get a carburetor with the choke lever in the wrong position, if
it has a steel choke shaft, I just grind the lever off at the flare and weld
it back on the shaft in the right position. But if it has a brass shaft,
I use a steel choke shaft out of a junk carburetor. Or if I don't have a
used one in stock, I machine a steel choke shaft from a 1/4" mild steel rod.
Like the old saying goes: "There's more than one way to skin a cat."
The Unknown and Tricky Choke Shaft Detent Ball and Spring -
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The choke shaft detent ball is a tiny 1/8" (Carter or Kohler
carburetors) or 5/32" (Walbro carburetors) steel ball, and the detent spring
is a small, stout 1/8" or 5/32" diameter compression spring located inside
the air cleaner mounting hole at the 9:00 position when facing the choke
end with the float area down. Certain Walbro carburetors have the ball and
spring located at the 3:00 position. The detent ball and spring is under
pressure by the choke shaft, and is held in the open position by an indention
(small shallow hole) in the shaft. The detent ball and spring are required
only for hand-operation of the choke plate to keep it in the open position
on stand-alone engines without a remote cable control, such as a competition
garden pulling tractor, garden tiller, generator/welder, air compressor,
water pump, etc. If the choke is operated by a cable, such as on a lawn &
garden tractor, then these parts aren't needed and will serve no purpose
whatsoever. Before removing the choke shaft from the carburetor body, and
to prevent the detent ball (and possibly spring) from popping out and getting
lost, using your left hand, hold your thumb over the screw hole and index
or middle finger over the end of the choke shaft hole, then slowly and gently
pull the choke shaft out of the hole, watching that the ball don't pop out
and get lost. Replace these if lost so the choke will stay open while the
engine is running.
Installing the choke shaft over the friction (detent) ball and spring
can be tricky. This is how it's performed -
-
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Place the carburetor on a sturdy work bench or table, or gently
clamped level it in a bench vise with the choke end facing upward and the
float bowl facing toward you.
-
Carefully install the ball and spring in the threaded air cleaner/filter
assembly mounting hole located at the 9:00 position. Certain Walbro carburetors
have the ball and spring located at the 3:00 position. Make sure the ball
is centered with the spring.
-
To install the choke shaft, it may be able to slide over the ball and compress
the spring. If not, then use a 3/32"
roll pin punch (with a blunt end) to firmly compress the
ball/spring so the choke shaft will slide over the ball.
-
Gently push the choke shaft in the hole until it makes contact with the punch,
then at the same time while still pushing on the shaft, reposition the punch
at an angle (toward your right for the 9:00 position), then slowly pull up
on the punch at the same time continuing pushing the shaft through the hole
so the shaft can slide over the ball. Make sure your finger is still over
the end hole!
-
The end of the shaft should now be flush with the outside of the carburetor
body. You should feel the friction/pressure that the ball/spring is placing
on the shaft. If so, then gently rotate the shaft to feel the ball "catch"
in the indention in the shaft.
-
If this goes well, install the choke plate and apply clean motor oil through
the screw holes for smooth choke operation and less wear to the shaft and/or
carburetor body.
How to adjust the fuel mixture screws on
a Kohler (or virtually any small engine) fully adjustable carburetor
- [Top of Page]
Operation of the Slow- and Mid-Range Carburetor Functions -
At idle speed, the engine operates
only through the idle fuel passageway. As a metered amount of air is drawn
through slow air bleed jets, fuel is drawn through main jet and further metered
through slow jet. Air and fuel are mixed in body of slow jet and exit to
idle progression (transfer port) chamber. From idle progression chamber,
air fuel mixture is metered through idle port passage. At low idle air/fuel
mixture is controlled by setting of idle fuel adjusting screws. This mixture
is then mixed with main body of air and delivered to engine. As throttle
plate opening increases, greater amounts of air/fuel mixture are drawn in
through fixed and metered idle progression holes. As throttle plate opens
further, vacuum signal become great enough at venturi so main circuit begins
to work.
Operation of the High Speed Main Jet -
At high speeds/loads engine operates on main circuit. As a metered amount
of air is drawn through air jet, fuel is drawn through main jet. Air and
fuel are mixed in main nozzles then enters main body of air flow where further
mixing of fuel and air occurs. This mixture is then delivered to combustion
chamber. Carburetor has a fixed main circuit; no adjustment is possible.
If the engine runs well at idle and at higher RPM, don't worry about how
the idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustment screws are set. Carburetor
adjustments depend on the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure
and air temperature where the engine will be operated. In higher elevations,
air is thin or less dense. Therefore, the engine requires more air than fuel
to run well. But in lower elevations, air is heavy or dense, and because
of this, the engine requires less air than fuel. So there is obviously no
"one set adjustment" for all carburetors in all areas. And no new or rebuilt
carburetor with adjustable jet(s) for small engines, automotive or whatever,
come from the manufacturer or rebuilder with the idle speed, idle air/fuel
mixture or the high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments set correctly. This
is true for ordinary lawn and garden, and all small engines, and competition
pulling engines alike, with the exception of [Walbro] carburetors with the
fixed/non-adjustable high speed jet.
How the Idle Fuel Passageway Works in the Carter and Kohler Carburetors
-
On the Carter or Kohler (and Walbro) carburetors, the hole towards the bottom
of the long main needle adjuster is supposed to be open and not clogged,
so the engine can draw fuel through it for idling from the float bowl. The
idle fuel passageway for a Carter or Kohler carburetors goes as follows:
Fuel is first drawn through the lower end via the tiny hole(s) (orifice)
on the high speed needle adjuster, then through engine vacuum, fuel is drawn
up through the tube, and over and down toward the idle air/fuel mixture screw
(which sets at an angle), and then fuel is drawn into the throttle bore,
next to the throttle plate. The information mentioned below
Ê is mainly for Carter or Kohler carburetors.
The fuel mixture screws are used as follows:
-
There's three adjusting screws:
-
Idle speed screw. Adjusting this screw controls the idle speed of the engine.
It makes contact with the throttle lever.
-
Idle air/fuel mixture screw. This is adjusted ONLY when the engine is operating
at a lower/slow idle speed.
-
High speed air/fuel mixture screw. This is adjusted ONLY when the engine
is operating at higher/fast RPM. (Well above idle.) Fuel is not drawn
through the idle fuel passageway at higher RPM, and adjusting the idle fuel
mixture screw has no effect how well the engine runs at higher RPM.
-
After lightly bottoming out both fuel mixture screws, rotate each
one 1-1/2 to 2 turns out. This is the initial setting just to get the engine
running. Final adjustment can be made so the engine will run smoothly.
-
On some small carburetors (gas string trimmers, chainsaws, etc.), there's
two air/fuel mixture adjusting screws that's located next to each other on
the same side of the carburetor. The one that's closest to the throttle shaft
or plate is usually the idle air/fuel mixture screw. The screw on the side
and at an angle on the Carter or Kohler carburetor is for the idle air/fuel
mixture. It controls the amount of fuel that's mixed with the air at idle
speed. With the engine idling at a slow speed, adjust this one until the
engine runs smooth. Slow the engine RPM down with the idle speed screw and
readjust the idle mixture screw. Repeat this process until the engine runs
so slow, you can count the revolutions every time the piston hits. Then set
the idle speed at factory specifications (usually 1,000-1,200 RPM) so the
dipper on the connecting rod will strike the oil and thoroughly lubricate
the moving parts inside the engine. A slightly fast idle speed will prevent
damage or excessive wear on parts inside the engine.
-
Use a
1/32" high speed steel spiral drill bit or
1/32" end mill to enlarge the [single] lower hole (orifice)
in high speed needle air/fuel adjuster screw in Carter Model N #13, #16,
#18, #20, #22 carburetors, and Carter or Kohler #26, #28 and #30 carburetors
to create more suction for fuel through the tube to help the engine start
quicker (with throttle in idle position), idle smoothly, and idle down upon
deceleration without hesitation or stalling. No need to use this on adjuster
with two lower holes. NOTE: Carefully enlarge the hole by hand
with drill bit clamped in a
mini micro pin vise hand drill chuck. And be careful when
using any tiny drill bit because they can break easily. After enlarging hole,
clear out any metal cuttings from inside the adjuster tube with 150±
P.S.I. compressed air and an air blow gun nozzle.
-
The screw on top of the carburetor body or under the float bowl, or next
to the idle mixture screw is for the high speed air/fuel mixture.
It controls the amount of fuel that's mixed with the air at 3,600 RPM or
open
RPM. With the engine running at 3,600 RPM or
open
RPM, slowly rotate this screw one way or the other until the engine runs
smoothly. By the way - the idle mixture screw has nothing to do with the
high speed operation of the engine, and vice-versa.
-
After making the final fuel mixture screw adjustments, set the throttle control
so the (stock) engine will rev at governed speed of 3,600 RPM.
-
The adjustments that's mentioned here are not meant for every type of carburetor.
Some adjust differently. If there's instructions, or you're not sure on how
to adjust them, just adjust them until the engine runs smooth.
[Top of Page].
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Many times when cleaning a Carter or Kohler carburetor, the
welch plug that's on the side of the carburetor doesn't need to be removed.
The only time it needs to be removed is when the tiny fuel feed hole that's
next to the throttle plate become clogged with dried gas or debris. To clear
this hole, with the idle air/fuel mixture screw and the high speed needle
adjuster removed, thread a 1/4-28 UNF screw/bolt in place of the high speed
needle adjuster (this will place more air pressure against the idle fuel
feed hole), apply 150± P.S.I. compressed air with an
air blow gun nozzle in the idle mixture screw hole, and
place your finger inside the throttle bore over the fuel feed hole, and if
you feel air come out of the hole, the hole is cleared out. If air does come
out of the idle fuel feed hole, then the welch plug will need to be removed
and manually cleared out with a
carburetor jet cleaner wire set or an
oxy-acetylene welding torch tip cleaner. A new welch plug
will need to be installed.
If an engine blows black smoke out the exhaust while running, then here
are the main causes:
Black exhaust smoke is when an engine is getting too much gas and/or not
enough air in the combustion chamber. The causes for this are either... (listed
from most common to rare causes)
-
Choke plate isn't fully opening.
-
Solution: Check for bent choke plate, binding of remote solid wire
cable-controlled choke operation or adjust cable that controls opening/closing
of choke plate.
-
Too rich of fuel mixture adjustment on the carburetor.
-
Solution: Adjust carburetor or repair as needed.
-
Worn float valve (needle and seat).
-
Solution: Install new float valve and seat.
-
Bad float.
-
Solution: Install new or good used float.
-
Float out of adjustment.
-
Solution: Set the float level so it's parallel with the carburetor body
with the carburetor turned upside-down.
-
If the fuel baffle/splash shield is hard and stiff, it can push down on the
float after the float bowl is installed, preventing the float from shutting
off the fuel at the float valve (needle and seat).
-
Solution: Install new fuel baffle/splash shield.
-
Too much fuel pressure if using a high pressure 12 volt
electric fuel pump (more than 4 P.S.I.).
-
Solution: Install an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, set it at maximum
4 P.S.I., or install a low pressure 12 volt
electric fuel pump.
-
Hole (orifice) in the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube) have been drilled too
large.
-
Only one [Kohler or aftermarket] condenser being used with a
high-output/performance ignition coil.
-
Solution: Install two [Kohler or aftermarket] condensers or one automotive
(Chevrolet/GM) distributor condenser.
Also, sometimes flooding of the carburetor will deposit gas in the crankcase
oil, but only in a vertical shaft engine. Because gas can't seep into the
crankcase on horizontal shaft engines. The cause of the problem is the carburetor
is flooding. The gas seeps past the piston ring gaps and into the crankcase.
To fix this, clean the float valve (needle and seat) in the carburetor, or
install a new carburetor overhaul/rebuild kit with a new float valve needle
and seat. Also, clean out the fuel hoses with 150± P.S.I. compressed
air and an
air blow gun nozzle and install a new fuel filter. And
then the crankcase oil will need to be drained and clean/uncontaminated motor
oil installed.
The OEM Kohler Carburetor Intake Air/Fuel
Mixture Baffle Plate -
The purpose of the OEM Kohler
carburetor/intake air/fuel mixture baffle plate is to atomize (reduced into
smaller particles) or "swirl" the incoming air/fuel mixture more efficiently
at higher RPM so the engine will produce more horsepower and torque. This
part was made by Kohler of stamped .018" thickness aluminum with inside
45º/angled tabs/baffles, and installed on certain opposed (flathead)
twin cylinder engines carburetor and intake manifold sandwiched between two
(ordinary/.030" thickness) mounting gaskets. The discontinued OEM Kohler
part number for this is 52 063 40-S. And according to the official Kohler
engine parts list, this particular part originally came on Kohler Magnum
model M18 engines with specification numbers: 24620, 24644, 24665, 24666
(all AYP); 24646 (Cub Cadet); model MV18 engines with specification numbers:
58553, 58556, 58560, 58561 (all AYP); M20 engines with specification numbers:
49603, 49634 (both AYP); and model MV20 engines with specification numbers:
57525 (Exmark); 57526 (Yardman); 57527, 57528, 57529 (all AYP). If you're
lucky enough to find one of these, it can be used on the Kohler single cylinder
engine models K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, K330/K331, M14, K341, M16 and K361
to improve the performance at higher RPM. This part is guaranteed to work!
It showed a slight increase in horsepower and torque when tested on my personal
engine dyno. It's the next best thing to having a
fuel injected engine.
[Return
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Information About Using a Carburetor Intake Tube/Spacer (Fuel Atomization
Chamber) -
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Using
a fuel atomization chamber intake tube or spacer to distance the carburetor
away from the engine block allows the fuel to atomize better (break down
into smaller particles or a fine mist) so the engine will produce more power
and torque at higher RPM. The further the carburetor is spaced from the engine
block (flathead engines) or cylinder head(s) on OHV engines, the better the
fuel will atomize and the more power the engine will produce at higher RPMs.
It works, and it works great. This is why most makes and models of carbureted
small engines [other than the cast iron block single cylinder Kohler] have
a long intake tube, and why most naturally-aspirated carbureted high performance
automotive V6 and V8 engines use a high-rise intake manifold. Again, it's
the next best thing to having a
fuel injected engine.
A 1" carburetor spacer will definitely help atomize the fuel into smaller
particles so the engine will produce more noticeable power, and it'll help
the engine last longer and burn less fuel. On average, dyno tests had proven
that engines with a 1" spacer produced about 12% more horsepower and torque.
This is why virtually all [aluminum block] Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh,
and other makes and models of small engines use a factory-installed intake
tube. But for some reason, cast iron block single cylinder Kohler engines
are the only ones that didn't come with an intake tube.
When choosing the length of the intake tube, it seems that a 3" length works
best for gas, and 5" length works best for E85 or methanol fuels. Because
gas runs more lean than E85 or methanol, it requires less space or distance
to fully atomize (be reduced into smaller particles), and being E85 and methanol
fuels run richer, they need more space or distance to fully atomize before
these enter the combustion chamber.
For competition pulling, if an association's/club's rules state that no intake
tube can be used with the carburetor, the OEM Kohler carburetor intake air/fuel
mixture baffle plate (as described above) and/or a
heat isolator gasket will work great instead.
The heat isolator gasket isolates the carburetor body from the engine heat
so when the cool fuel from the carburetor makes contact with the warm/hot
engine (intake runner), it will instantly atomize better (be reduced into
smaller particles) before it enters the combustion chamber, which will help
the engine produce more horsepower and torque. Yet again, it's the next best
thing to having a
fuel injected engine.
In addition, "roughing up" the inside of the intake tube will help create
turbulence to "break up" and atomize the fuel better and should help a Kohler
engine produce a few more ponies. This works for automotive engines, and
it should work for Kohler engines as well.
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On single cylinder
Kohler competition pulling engines that run at open RPM, when using a mounting
gasket between the intake tube and intake port, due to normal high RPM engine
vibration, the [somewhat soft] gasket will allow the tube (and carburetor)
to vibrate and possibly cause one half of the intake port (with a huge enlarged
port opening, which weakens the port) to break off. This is based on fact
and has been known to happen. So to prevent this from happening, instead
of using a gasket, a shallow, narrow groove can be machined in one end of
the flange of the tube for a reusable small cross-sectional diameter neoprene
rubber O-ring. The O-ring will take place of the gasket to prevent a vacuum
leak. The O-ring will compress, guaranteeing metal to metal contact to secure
the tube directly to the engine block. The same can be done to a carburetor
mounting flange.
Another way to gain more horsepower and torque at virtually any RPM besides
roughing up the inside of the intake tube is to fabricate a spiral fuel atomizer
from ordinary sheet metal steel. This particular part is made the same length
but a few thousandths bigger in width than the intake tube, twisted one time
(180º), and is fitted snugly inside the intake tube. This is a dyno-proven
add-on and performance modification that increases engine horsepower and
torque by about 5-10%.
Also for competition pulling, with an intake tube in use, mounting gaskets
are not necessary. Just resurface the carburetor mounting flange and ends
of the intake tube (if needed) on a wide, flat
belt- or disc-sander to remove warpage and restore flatness
(use eye protection!), and then apply a thin bead of
clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant with no gasket. When
a gasket is used, the bolts or nuts (with studs) are tightened, the softness
of the gasket could cause the carburetor flange to warp and possibly break.
With no gasket involved, there will be metal to metal contact with the silicone
filling in the open gaps between the two metals, and there is NO WAY the
flange can warp or possibly break! By the way - I've always preferred
to use
clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant for three reasons:
Gaskets don't always seal the irregularities between mating metals, especially
thin metal covers; being it's an adhesive, it bonds parts together, forming
a leak-proof seal; and being it's clear, it makes for a clean and
professional-looking repair job. When applied sparingly, it can't be easily
seen or noticed between the parts.
The Cause of Slight Carburetor Flooding or "Loading Up on Fuel" at Slow
Idle with a High Performance/Long Duration Camshaft -
Sometimes when using a high performance/long duration camshaft, regardless
if the engine has a stock or modified carburetor, if the engine idles for
a long period of time, it may run rich on fuel at a slow idle speed. What
causes this is with a long duration cam, intake vacuum is low and with a
single cylinder engine, being the valves stay open longer, excess fuel builds
up in the carburetor and/or intake tube. All engines with a long duration
camshaft have lower than normal vacuum at slow idle. The longer the duration
a cam has, the lower the vacuum. What causes excess fuel to build up in the
intake is the long duration of the cam lobes holds the [intake] valve open
longer, and at slow idle, pressure of the piston moving upward in the cylinder
blows some of the air/fuel back into the carburetor and/or intake tube. And
as the engine is revved up, raw unburned fuel black smoke (gas) will blow
out the exhaust pipe until the fuel is cleared out of the carburetor and/or
intake tube. With the engine running well above idle, air become trapped
within the combustion chamber and the piston don't have time to push any
air/fuel back into the carburetor and/or intake tube. This happens with all
types of fuels and there's nothing that can be done about it. It's the nature
of the long duration camshaft. Some might think when this happens that there's
something wrong with the carburetor, and nothing can be done to the idle
fuel passageway to prevent this. Just make a simple adjustment with the idle
air/fuel mixture screw, set the engine at a fast idle and don't allow the
engine to idle for a long period of time.
[Return
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The Major Causes of Carburetor Flooding -
FYI - I don't put any additives in my gas. I think it's a waste of money
and effort, and gives false hope. I filter out the dirt and remove any water
from the [somewhat fresh] left-over gas that's in my customer's small engine
equipment, and dump it in my personal car or truck so it will mix with the
fresh gas that's already in the tank. Then I always use fresh/purchased gas
with no additives in my customer's small engine equipment.
What prevents most carburetor and fuel system from having problems when using
gasoline is to run the engine out of fuel or draining the entire fuel system
if it's not going to be used for more than 30 days at a time. If there's
no fuel left in the system, then there should be no problems. The following
causes are listed from most common to rare.
If fuel drips out of or from the carburetor...
-
Dirt/debris, lint or hair lodged between float valve and seat. This will
prevent the float valve from fully closing against the seat.
-
Solution: Clean float valve and seat, clear out entire fuel system with
150± P.S.I. compressed air and an
air blow gun nozzle and install new fuel filter.
-
Old, deteriorated pleated paper fuel filter. The filtering material is
brittle, can tear easy, which will allow dirt/debris to pass through the
torn opening.
-
Solution: Clean carburetor, clear out entire fuel system with 150±
P.S.I. compressed air and an air blow gun nozzle and install new fuel
filter.
-
Avoid using 150± P.S.I. compressed air and an air blow gun nozzle through
pleated paper fuel filter too many times to clean it out. This will cause
the filtering material to tear, rip or "blow out," allowing dirt/debris to
pass through the torn opening.
-
Solution: Clean carburetor, clear out entire fuel system with 150±
P.S.I. compressed air and an air blow gun nozzle and install new fuel
filter.
-
Worn or damaged fuel inlet valve and/or seat.
-
Solution: New replacement required.
-
Loose float valve seat in carburetor body (if it's the threaded-in type).
Sometimes these are not installed tight enough, resulting in a light flooding
condition.
-
Solution: If tightening the seat doesn't stop the fuel leak, then a new
float valve and seat with a new sealing gasket will need to be installed.
-
Fuel leak at the carburetor float
bowl rubber O-ring seal. Only happens when engine is in operation. Circumference
of float bowl not sealing tight against the
neoprene
rubber O-ring seal and fuel baffle/splash shield in carburetor body.
-
Solution: Remove float bowl, and from inside the bowl, use a small to
medium size hammer to flatten the area around the hole where the bolt fastens
the float bowl to the carburetor body. Doing this will place more pressure
on the circumference of the float bowl against the carburetor body so the
O-ring will seal better. Don't over-tighten the float bowl bolt because the
threads in the carburetor could strip out. Also, make sure the O-ring and
fuel baffle/splash shield are in place when reinstalling the float bowl.
If gas constantly pours out of the carburetor...
-
Bad or damaged float (hole in float). To test for a bad float, if it's
a hollow brass float, remove it from the carburetor and either move it around
in your hand or hold it next to your ear. If you feel and hear a sloshing
sound, then there's gas inside it. NOTE: Repairing by re-soldering a brass
float will most likely not work or last long. NOTE: Do NOT use a
propane torch or small
oxy-acetylene torch to solder a hole in a brass float that
had gas in it! The gas fumes inside WILL cause the float to explode!
-
Solution: New or good/used float replacement is required.
-
Small hole in bottom of float bowl. This happens to aluminum float bowls
and is caused by corrosion from water in the fuel system. Water is heavier
than gas. So it goes below the gas and straight to the carburetor. Water
will corrode an aluminum float bowl. And during winter, it'll freeze in the
float bowl and crush the float.
-
Solution: New replacement of either part is required.
-
Float stuck to bottom of float bowl. This is caused by engine setting
in long term storage
with gas left in the gas tank and carburetor. To prevent this from happening
at all or happening in the future, drain the entire fuel system, then loosen
the float bowl retaining bolt to finish draining all the fuel from the float
bowl.
-
Solution: Cleaning of float and bottom of bowl is required.
The best way to remove built-up
stuck and stubborn debris from inside the float bowl is to use a 2" brass
wire cup brush (shown to the right ->) with a hand-held power drill, and
then use 150± P.S.I. compressed air with an
air blow gun nozzle to clear out the debris from the main
jet hole and clear out the entire float bowl area of the carburetor.
-
Float valve installed incorrectly. (When installing a new overhaul/rebuild
kit.)
-
Solution: The rubber tip (pointed end) goes in the fuel inlet seat and not
against the float.
-
If the carburetor on an engine
has been setting for some time without an air cleaner/filter assembly, and
if gas pours out of the carburetor only when cranking the engine, especially
with a mechanical fuel pump, then the gas stops pouring out when the engine
isn't cranked, check for a clogged atmospheric vent opening (air passageway
from inside the float bowl area to outside of carburetor) in the carburetor.
Sometimes a
mud dauber (wasp-like insect) will build their nest in
a place like this. (I've seen this happen a few times with my customer
carburetor rebuilds.)
-
Solution: Clear out the atmospheric vent opening (air passageway from inside
the float bowl area to outside of carburetor) and entire carburetor with
150± P.S.I. compressed air and an air blow gun nozzle.
-
If a 12 volt electric fuel pump is being
used, it's either producing too much pressure, or if there's a fuel pressure
regulator inline, it's set too high or the valve is stuck in position.
-
Solution: Repair or adjust regulator as needed, set the regulator at maximum
4 P.S.I., or install a low pressure 12 volt
electric fuel pump.
What makes crankcase oil black is blow-by due to either worn piston rings,
carburetor flooding or the engine running rich on fuel (gas). And if there's
gas in the oil (you can smell the presence of gas), this means there's a
hole in the diaphragm in the mechanical fuel pump. Being there are no fuel
pump repair kits available nowadays, an either good used or new replacement
fuel pump is required.
How to Separate Gasoline from Water -
No need to dispose of fresh gas just because it's contaminated with water
(and/or dirt and debris). And with the price of gas nowadays, this would
be a wise thing to do.
-
Drain the water-contaminated gas from the entire fuel system (gas tank, fuel
hose, fuel pump, filter and carburetor) into a clean container of adequate
size. When gas is contaminated with water, the water (and dirt/debris)
should immediately settle to the bottom of the container and the gas will
be on top. You should be able to see the water at the bottom with a bright
light.
-
To separate the gas from the water, carefully pour the gas into another clean
container, but watch that the water don't enter the other container, too.
If there's dirt/debris floating around or suspended in the water-contaminated
gas, place a filtering material, such as a
paint filter,
coffee filter,
fine mesh screen wire,
clean cloth shop towel or a
fine woven fabric window curtain drooped into a
large funnel in a clean container of adequate size, and
pour the gas through the filtering material/funnel, and again, watch that
the water don't enter the other container. The water can be seen under the
gas.
-
NOTE: Adding
gas line anti-freeze (alcohol) breaks up or disperse the
water into tiny droplets throughout the gas, which then pose no freezing.
But if there's A LOT of water in the gas, then the water-contaminated gas
will need to be drained and flushed from the entire fuel system. Being water
is heavier than gas, it will always go to the bottom in a container or gas
tank. With a bright light, you can see the water from the gas in an open
container. The water will be at the bottom and the gas will be on top. The
water can be separated from the gas by using two containers - pour the gas
from the first container into the second container and do not allow the water
get into the second container. The gas can still be reused. If the gas has
any amount of alcohol (10% or
E85), the alcohol
will be absorbed by or mixed with the water, to save the alcohol content
with the gas, pour the 10%/E85 gas/water from the first container through
a genuine (not synthetic)
chamois
leather (real sheep's skin) drooped into the second container. The chamois
must first be soaked with clean gasoline, then the chamois will soak up or
absorb the water and allow the alcohol and gas to pass through. Squeeze the
water from the chamois, hang it up to dry out, and it can be used for next
time.
-
Use 150± P.S.I. compressed air with an
air blow gun nozzle to clear out the remaining
water-contaminated gas from the entire fuel system and use a dry shop towel
or water-absorbing paper towel clamped to a
long needle nosed pliers to soak up the gas/water in the
gas tank. If necessary, use a sealed flashlight (to prevent a possible explosion
due to gas fumes) to see if the tank is 100% dry.
-
Pour the water-free gas back in the gas tank and dispose of the contaminated
water in the container.
Gasoline and alcohol fuels
are both extremely flammable! Use caution and don't smoke, avoid making sparks
or don't have an open flame exposed when working near or with either of them.
Work in a well-ventilated area, too.
By the way - As business is booming, we've been to many competition
garden tractor pulls through the years and noticed that some pulling tractors
leak fuel in places where a fuel leak shouldn't be. Therefore, I think the
safety inspections should include checking the fuel hoses for dry-rotting,
cracks, fuel leaks, loose fittings, etc. (The tractors should have sturdy
wheelie bars, too.) The inspectors should grab hold of the fuel hose(s) with
their hand, bend it and slightly jerk on it to check for durability. This
is very important. Especially in a kid's class. Don't wait until a small
issue become a major problem, then turn in to a catastrophe. If a pulling
club's sanctioning safety rules are enforced, and pullers would build their
tractors right and maintain them regularly, there wouldn't be any injuries,
fires, or fear of a fire.
Click or tap here
to read more about a competition garden pulling tractor catching on
fire.
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If an engine won't idle or idles poorly, if it's a Carter or
Kohler carburetor, chances are, there's old, dried gas debris inside the
high speed air/fuel needle adjuster tube. To fix this, first, on an adjuster
with only one lower hole, carefully enlarge the hole with a
1/32" high speed steel spiral drill bit or
1/32" end mill. Then use a small, bendable mild steel wire,
such as a
bread wrapper wire twist tie with the coating stripped
off, to clean out inside the tube. And use the 150± P.S.I. compressed
air with an
air blow gun nozzle to thoroughly clear out the tube. Suck
through the tube with your mouth to make sure it's clear and unclogged. (Proven
method that works.) If performing this won't clear out the tube, then a new
or used unclogged high speed air/fuel needle adjuster screw will need to
be acquired. But make sure it's the correct adjuster for your particular
carburetor!
If an engine idles slow when the throttle lever is held to the slowest
position by hand, but refuses to idle down on its own, the following may
be the causes:
-
Governor spring tension too tight or out of adjustment.
-
Throttle linkage is binding or obstruction in movement of linkage.
-
Clamp on governor lever that's on the governor cross-shaft is out of adjustment.
If an engine idles well, but runs only at top governed speed (up to 3,200
RPM with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet; or 3,600 RPM with a fully adjustable
main jet) with the choke partially closed, or if it surges or hesitates to
rev up, this means the engine is running too lean on fuel, and following
are the most likely causes: (Listed from most common to rare.)
-
Partially clogged hole (orifice) in the main jet, or if the carburetor has
a fixed/non-adjustable high speed main jet, then the hole in the main jet
is calibrated too small for the size of engine it's installed on.
-
Solution: Remove carburetor,
remove float bowl and float, and use a
carburetor jet cleaner wire set or an
oxy-acetylene welding torch tip cleaner to clear out the
dried gas and/or dirt/debris from the main jet.
IMPORTANT: When cleaning the hole (orifice) in
the main jet, use a wire cleaner of the correct size, and be careful not
to enlarge the hole, or the engine may run too rich on fuel! This cannot
be undone! But if the engine still runs the same after cleaning
the main jet, then the hole (orifice) in the main jet will need to be slightly
if enlarged a few thousandths of an inch to give the engine a little more
fuel. After cleaning or enlarging the hole (orifice) in the main jet, always
use 150± P.S.I. compressed air with an
air blow gun nozzle to clear the debris and/or metal fragments
from the carburetor.
-
Clogged vent hole in gas cap or the gas tank has the
wrong type of gas cap. Most small engine gas tanks need a vented cap so outside
air can be drawn into the tank as the fuel is depleted.
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FYI - If a gas cap is missing the sealing gasket/splash
shield, this part can be made from durable
paper-like gasket material by cutting out a piece so the
outside diameter fits snug inside the cap. Be sure to make a small hole (1/32")
off-center in the gasket for the atmospheric vent to draw air in the tank
as fuel is depleted. And if fuel spews out of the vent hole in the cap (with
the gasket/splash shield installed) with a full tank of gas due to normal
engine vibration, to prevent a possible fire, place a small piece of porous
foam rubber
(reticulated polyurethane foam) between the gasket/splash
shield and vent hole in the cap. The foam will absorb the fuel and block
it from being forced out the vent hole, and it'll allow incoming outside
air to pass through as fuel is depleted in the tank.
-
Vacuum leak where the carburetor fastens to the engine block.
-
Solution: First check if the carburetor mounting flange is warped. Use
a wide, flat
belt- or disc-sander/grinder or on the side of an abrasive
metal cutting wheel on a
electric chop saw (the kind that automotive muffler shops
use) to remove warpage and restore flatness. (Be sure to use eye protection!)
If the flange is warped, the sander/grinder will make contact where the bolt
holes are, but not the area between the bolt holes. (Sometimes I use the
side of the abrasive cutting wheel on my
14" electric chop saw with a metal cut-off wheel. Works
great! Extreme care is recommended and be sure to use eye protection!)
-
Worn/loose throttle shaft and/or throttle shaft hole in carburetor body.
-
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Solution: If throttle shaft hole in the carburetor body
has a counterbore, install new flat bronze bushing and/or new throttle shaft,
or if no counterbore is present, have throttle shaft hole precision align-bored
for installation of a new bronze sleeve bushing with an [oiled] foam rubber
seal. Click or tap here for more
information.
-
Clogged main jet hole (orifice) in the carburetor.
-
On a Carter or Kohler carburetor, check that the small hole just beneath
the choke plate is clear. It needs to go all the way to the main jet. Spray
some WD40 or aerosol carburetor cleaner in the hole and see if it comes out
the main jet.
-
The problem may be with the ignition, and not in the carburetor. The engine
probably has a weak spark. This will cause it to die upon revving up. At
idle speed, an engine runs on low compression. But upon revving up, more
air (and fuel) is introduced in the combustion chamber, compression is increased,
and this is what makes an engine rev up. The increased air pressure in the
combustion chamber makes higher compression and at an increased/open throttle,
this will literally blow the weak spark out at the spark plug's tip.
-
Solution: install new spark plug, clean or install new points, (clean
the contacts on new points due to oxidation in
long term storage),
install two [Kohler or aftermarket] condensers or one automotive (Chevrolet/GM)
distributor condenser if a high-output/performance coil is being used. Or
the ignition system may be operating off of low voltage from the battery
or defective (low output) charging system.
-
Insufficient main bearing/crankshaft end-play clearance.
-
If a high output/performance ignition coil (Bosch blue coil) is being used,
it require two [Kohler or aftermarket] condensers or one automotive
(Chevrolet/GM) distributor condenser.
-
And you know, I've seen small twigs and sticks get lodged in the gas tank
outlet port. Sometimes mischievous kids will dump dirt and debris in the
tank, too. After 30+ years of repairing lawn mowers for the public, I think
I've seen it all.
FYI - If the spark plug's tip is black and/or has wet gas on it, and if the
carburetor has been thoroughly cleaned (multiple times), but you think the
problem is still in the carburetor, well, the carburetor is probably working
fine because the engine is obviously getting plenty of fuel. As an older,
experienced mechanic once said: "Most carburetor problems are electrical."
Meaning faulty/weak ignition system. This have been proven true more times
than I can remember.
Backfiring out the exhaust upon deceleration is normal for virtually all
engines since gas is still going through the combustion chamber, compressing
in the exhaust and exploding from the exhaust heat. But if an engine constantly
backfires out the exhaust at any speeds after running for several minutes,
the problem may be...
-
Carburetor mounting bolts may be loose.
-
Carburetor mounting flange is warped, causing a vacuum leak.
-
Solution: Resurface the mounting flange on a wide, flat
belt- or disc-sander/grinder or on the side of an abrasive
metal cutting wheel on a
electric chop saw (the kind that automotive muffler shops
use) to remove warpage and restore flatness. (Be sure to use eye
protection!)
-
Hole (orifice) in the main jet in the carburetor could be partially clogged,
resulting in a lean air/fuel mixture.
-
Weak spark. If a high-output/performance [12 volt battery ignition] coil
is being used, then two [Kohler or aftermarket] condensers or one automotive
(Chevrolet/GM) distributor condenser is required so the coil can produce
full voltage at the spark plug's tip.
-
And regardless of which gas is burned in a competition pulling engine, use
only the type of spark plug that's recommended by the manufacturer of the
engine. If the wrong type of plug is used, the engine will lose power.
The fuel solenoid used on newer
Briggs & Stratton, Kohler, etc., engines is located on the bottom of
the float bowl. The spring-loaded plunger in it stops the fuel supply to
the combustion chamber by blocking off the main jet as soon as the ignition
is turned off. With this type of fuel solenoid, the engine will die immediately
when the ignition is turned off. This solenoid also prevents a loud BANG
out the muffler when the ignition is turned off while the engine is hot.
Without it, when the [hot] engine is turned off while throttled up, unburned
gas will continue to pass through the combustion chamber, build up in the
still red-hot muffler where the gas is compressed with hot air, and then
produce a loud BANG out the muffler.
The solenoid is supposed to make a "click" sound when the ignition is turned
on. When in doubt rather it's the solenoid that's defective or bad wiring
on the tractor, the solenoid can be tested with a 12 volt battery. With the
solenoid removed from the carburetor, connect the battery positive (+) post
to the solenoid wire, and connect the battery negative () post to the
body of the solenoid. If the plunger quickly withdraws in the solenoid body,
it's in good condition. If it doesn't withdraw, then the wire connecting
to the solenoid has an open in it.
If the solenoid fails to function, it can be replaced with a new one, or
remove it and simply snip off the protruding pin (plunger rod), and reinstall
it. Doing this will allow the engine to draw fuel and run. But remember to
idle the engine down for a few minutes each time before shutting it off,
or like I said, it may produce a loud BANG out the muffler.
Advertisement: (Prices are subject to change without notice.)
Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for
FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support
and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or
parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this
website.
Kohler Anti-Backfire/Engine
Shut-Off Solenoid Valve Kit. This anti-backfire solenoid valve fits in
the carburetor and shuts off the engine when the ignition is turned off.
The solenoid is energized the entire time the ignition switch is turned on
to allow incoming air in the float bowl so the engine will run. When the
ignition is turned off, it blocks off the incoming air in the float bowl
to create a vacuum in the float bowl to prevent fuel from entering the combustion
chamber, so the engine eventually shuts down. And with no raw fuel in the
hot muffler, there is no possibility of a backfire. When the solenoid fails
to function, the engine will not start. This particular part is designed
for Kohler engine models K181 with specification numbers 13802, 13803, 13804,
13805, 13806, 13807, 13808, 13809, 13810, 13811, 13812, 13813, 13814, 13815,
13816, 13817, 13818, 13820, 30671, 30715, 30739; M18 with specification numbers
24610, 24637, 24652; M20 with specification numbers 49547, 49564, 49605;
K582 with specification numbers 36246, 36249, 36261, 36266, 36268, 36285,
36310, 36327, 36337, 36350, 36371, 36373, 36374, 36376, 36382, 36392, 24600,
24603. OEM Kohler part # 25 755 05-S. $101.45 each, plus shipping
& handling.
NOTE: Being the solenoid (OEM Kohler part # 25 755 06-S) for Kohler engine
models M18 with specification numbers: 24563, 24568, 24574, 24577, 24592,
24594, 24599, 24619, 24630, 24631, 24636, 24646, 24655, 24656, 24659, 24664,
24674, 24696, 49514, 49544, 49545, 49565, 49569, 49570, 49572; M20 with
specification numbers: 49584, 49595, 49599, 49608, 49623, 49624, 49629; MV20
with specification numbers: 57501-57514, 57527, 57528 is no longer available,
to convert these engines without use of the solenoid, remove the failed solenoid
and valve, cut short 3/8" threads in the hole (remove the float bowl first
and use compressed air with an
air blow gun nozzle to clear out the metal cuttings
afterwards), and install a short 3/8" Allen set screw in the hole. Don't
thread the set screw deep into the hole, or it will block off outside atmospheric
air from entering the float bowl. Without a solenoid and with the conversion,
the engine will require a different ignition switch to shut off the spark.
And the engine should be idled down before shutting it off to lessen the
chance of a backfire out the muffler. |
How To Loosen a Gummed-Up, Stuck, Corroded or Rusted-In-Place Throttle
or Choke Shaft, or Adjusting Screw -
EVAPO-RUST® and
Metal Rescue are very safe products to use and
works wonders to remove rust and loosen virtually any rusted or corroded
metal part! Just soak the carburetor body for 1 hour for light rust and up
to 12 hours for extremely heavy rust. Then use small locking pliers
(Vise Grip) to GENTLY rotate the shaft back and forth
. Don't force it because it could become twisted
and/or break off at the closest plate retaining screw hole! It may rotate
(loosen) just a few thousandths of an inch. After it rotates slightly, spray
it again and gently rotate it again. Eventually, it should rotate more and
swivel 100% free. These products are very safe to use and they work wonders
on virtually anything that's rusted!
Or use a
heavy duty bathroom toilet bowl cleaner. Most of them will
remove rust and scale. If it reads on the label that it will remove rust,
then that's the one to use. Pour the cleaner in a container that's large
enough for the carburetor body, and allow it to soak for about 30 minutes
and then rinse it off with water. The throttle or choke shaft should swivel
with no problems.
Or use distilled
white vinegar to remove rust from the outside of gas tanks, tools,
bolts/nuts, clutch pressure plates or virtually any exterior steel or cast
iron object. Check it out here:
vinegar rust removal - YouTube. Distilled white vinegar
will not remove rust from inside a gas tank because it cannot be "rubbed
loose" by hand from inside the tank.
GUNK Liquid Wrench® also works wonders to loosen virtually
any rusted or corroded metal part! Just spray the ends of the throttle or
choke shaft, let soak for about 30 minutes or perhaps overnight, then use
small locking pliers
(Vise Grip) to GENTLY rotate the shaft back and forth
. Don't force it because it could become twisted
and/or break off at the closest plate retaining screw hole! It may rotate
(loosen) just a few thousandths of an inch. After it rotates slightly, spray
it again and gently rotate it again. Eventually, it should rotate more and
swivel 100% free.
If the shaft(s) refuse to loosen with either Evapo-Rust, Liquid Wrench or
heavy duty bathroom toilet bowl cleaner, remove the float bowl, float, fuel
baffle/splash shield and O-ring seal. Clamp the carburetor in a bench vice,
then use a
propane torch or an
oxy-acetylene torch to LIGHTLY heat the carburetor
body next to the shaft (don't get the carburetor body too hot!), and use
the locking pliers
(Vise Grip) to GENTLY rotate the shaft back and forth
. The shaft should swivel 100% free within a
few seconds of heating. Heating might also work to remove a stuck-in-place
idle speed adjuster screw, idle fuel mixture screw or the main adjuster screw.
Be very gentle rotating a brass screw to loosen it because being brass is
a soft metal, it could snap off! And be careful not to get cast aluminum
too hot, it may crumble or split into pieces! Don't use a torch in an attempt
to remove a stuck main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube) from a carburetor that's
in good condition. Being the aluminum surrounding the main jet/nozzle (emulsion
tube) is thin, it will most likely crumble or split into pieces under the
severe heat, rendering the carburetor useless.
Click here to
learn how to remove the main jet/nozzle.
How to Clean the Inside of a Heavily Rusted or Dirty Metal gas tank
-
Fill the gas tank with
EVAPO-RUST®,
Metal Rescue™, or a
heavy duty bathroom toilet bowl cleaner. Most of these
will remove rust and scale. If it reads on the label that it will remove
rust, then that's the one to use. Leave it for 1 hour for light rust and
up to 12 hours for extremely heavy rust, drain and flush with clean water,
allow to thoroughly dry. These products are very safe to use and they work
wonders on virtually anything that's rusted! Or use
distilled white
vinegar to remove rust from inside gas tanks, tools, bolts/nuts, clutch
pressure plates or virtually any steel or cast iron part:
vinegar rust removal - YouTube.
Another method to clean an internally rusted or especially dirty gas tank,
put some small driveway gravel in the tank with water, seal the fuel outlet
fitting and gas cap vent holes (make sure the gas
cap has a good seal), then literally and vigorously shake the heck out of
it! Or for less tiresome labor, put the gravel and water in the tank, seal
it up, securely tie a blanket around it and then put it in a clothes dryer
or fasten it in an electric paint shaker. Set the dryer on the cold or "No
Heat" setting, and let the dryer tumble or paint shaker shake for a couple
of hours. When the water is drained and majority of the gravel removed, use
a garden water hose to thoroughly clean out inside the tank. It should look
new inside. If there's still some rust or dirt/debris in it, repeat the process
until all the rust or dirt/debris is broken loose. And regardless of what
you may have heard, putting sugar in a gas tank will NOT ruin the engine!
Don't believe in everything you hear. Read about it here:
snopes.com:
Sugar in the gas tank. YouTube link:
Sugar in Your Gas Engine gas tank.
How to Repair a Hole in a Metal Fuel or Oil Storage Tank -
If virtually any kind of
ferrous metal
(steel) tank have a rusted or dented hole in it and leaks fuel or liquid,
it can be successfully repaired by using a quality-made
gas tank sealant. But if the hole is too large for the
sealant, and if the tank is made of steel, a reputable
automotive radiator repair shop can solder a [tin] patch
over the hole. Then ask them to pressure test the tank filled with air submerged
in water to see if the patched hole leaks (bubbles). They usually have
rubber expansion plugs of various sizes to block-off the
inlet and outlet openings or ports.
How to Remove the OEM Carter or Kohler
Soft Brass Throttle or Choke Shaft Retaining Screws Without Breaking Them
Off - [Return To Previous Paragraph
or Section]
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First of all, I hate when people throw away a reusable throttle
or choke shaft just because it has a broken off throttle or choke plate retaining
screw in it. The only reason most carburetor manufacturers install soft brass
screws in the throttle and choke shafts is because the protruding threaded
ends can be easily flared to prevent the screws from loosening and becoming
dislodged. This saves the factory money from not having to use lock washers
or liquid threadlocker. A dislodged throttle plate screw could be sucked
into the combustion chamber and become lodged between the intake valve and
seat, bend the exhaust valve, or damage the cylinder head and top of the
piston. But f the OEM soft brass throttle or choke shaft screws do come out
without breaking off, they should never be reused because the area in the
threads can be distorted or over-stretched from being overtightened, which
could cause the screw to eventually break off.
Anyway, when removing these screws and to prevent them from breaking off,
first, grind down the protruding/flared ends with a
Dremel or equivalent small rotary grinder chucked with
either a very small grinding stone
(chainsaw sharpening stone) or an 1/8" high speed steel
end mill until the threads are flush with the shaft. Then
the screws can be easily removed from the shaft without breaking them off.
Be sure to use a quality-made screwdriver with a flat blade and square edge
that fits the slot of the screw head perfectly to prevent from distorting
or "stripping out" the slot. (This is why A-1 Miller's use and offer for
sale hardened 18-8 stainless steel screws [with split lock washers]. Unlike
[OEM] soft brass screws, 18-8 stainless steel will not strip out or break
off under normal installation.)
But should a brass screw break off in the throttle or choke shaft without
first grinding down the protruding/flared end, sometimes the shaft can be
difficult to remove from the carburetor body due to the protruding flared
end. Or if the slot in the screw head gets "stripped-out." In this case,
use the
Dremel to grind the flared end of the [broken] screw
and/or grind off the head of the screw until it's flush with the shaft. Then
the shaft can be removed. Afterwards, the broken screw can be drilled out
using a milling machine clamped in a vise with a 1/16"
center bit drill to make a small depression in the exact
center of the broken screw to prevent
"drill
bit skating" so either a 5/64", #46 or 2mm drill bit can be used to drill
out the rest of the broken screw, and then the threads may need to be
straightened/cleaned with a 3-48 UNC taper hand tap.
Don't use a center punch on the broken screw. This could bend the shaft,
create a crack when straightened, possibly cause it to break later when in
use. The throttle and choke shafts in Carter and Kohler carburetors originally
come with 3-48 UNC screws. A #3 split lock
washer should be used with a 3-48 UNC screw.
Should the threaded hole become enlarged from drilling out the broken screw,
the hole(s) can be made bigger with a 4-40 UNC
tap, and a 4-40 UNC screw with a #4 split lock washer will need to be
installed. By the way - liquid threadlocker is not required with a lock washer.
[Return To Previous Paragraph or
Section]
Correct Orientation and Installation
of the Throttle Plate and Choke Plate for Carter, Kohler and Walbro Carburetors
-
[Return
To Previous Website, Paragraph or Section]
Operation of the throttle plate and it works: All genuine OEM factory-made
throttle plates, rather if it's for a small engine, automotive, farm tractor,
industrial engine, etc., are made 3% oblong or "egg-shape", and have a slight
angle on the edges that seal against the sides of the throttle bore when
the throttle plate is fully closed. The oblong shape and angles prevent the
majority of incoming air from entering the combustion chamber when the throttle
is in the idle position so the engine can draw air and 100% fuel through
the idle fuel passageway in the carburetor so the engine can run at a low
speed. With the throttle plate closed, low air vacuum occurs through the
throttle bore and no fuel is drawn out of or through the [high speed] main
jet/nozzle. When the throttle is opened and the engine is revved up, high
velocity of air is drawn through the throttle bore and then fuel is drawn
out of or through the main jet/nozzle. And when the engine is running
approximately above 2,000 RPM, no fuel is drawn through the idle fuel passageway.
If the throttle shaft is removed
to install a new bushing and/or a new throttle shaft, or if the venturi is
to be bored-out (and the main jet/nozzle removed for a
reworked carburetor on a competition
pulling engine), the throttle plate must be removed first.
Read the article above or click here to
learn how to properly remove the throttle (and choke) plate.
To reinstall the throttle plate correctly, on the Carter, Kohler and Walbro
carburetors, the C (Carter), K (Kohler) or W (Walbro)
stamped on the throttle plate faces outward and toward your right when facing
the throttle bore with the carburetor positioned right side up and float
bowl down or toward you, as shown in the photo to the right ->. Back off
the idle speed adjustment screw so it doesn't make contact with the throttle
lever to allow the throttle plate be in the fully closed position. This will
allow for the throttle plate to rest 100% in the throttle bore and against
the throttle shaft. Make sure the throttle plate is centered with the throttle
bore in the fully closed position and against the throttle shaft. Use the
tips of a small [pointy] needle-nose pliers to align the holes in the throttle
plate with the screw holes in the throttle shaft. Install and tighten the
retaining screws with lock washers. If the
throttle plate is installed in reverse or not 100% centered with the throttle
bore, too much air will by-pass the throttle plate and the engine will not
be able to idle down at a slow speed. Most aftermarket/ oblong throttle plates
are not stamped with a letter and don't have the angle on the sides, so they
can be installed in either direction, and they should seal 100% to allow
the engine idle down just as well.
And when reinstalling a choke plate, make sure it's correctly aligned and
centered with the intake end of the carburetor on the choke shaft when in
the fully closed position. If the choke plate is not installed correctly,
it will not close fully, and the engine will be hard to start or may not
start at all (without the assistance of a remote fuel primer
system installed).
ALWAYS install the lock washers
(or apply
medium strength liquid threadlocker) on the threads of
the throttle (and choke) plate screws, and tighten them securely to prevent
them from possibly loosening and being sucked into the combustion chamber,
and getting lodged between the intake or exhaust valve and seat, which can
possibly cause the valve to bend, or lodge on top of the piston, which can
cause damage to the piston and cylinder head, and possibly the cylinder wall.
Do the job right the first time and it won't have to be done again later,
possibly with devastating results.
[Return
To Previous Paragraph or Section]
How to Remove the Main Jet/Nozzle (Emulsion
Tube) from a Carter or Kohler #26, #28 or #30 Carburetor -
[Return To Previous Paragraph or
Section]
![10-18hp Kohler (or Carter [model N]) Carburetor](images/carb.jpg)
When rebuilding a plain, stock Carter
or Kohler #26, #28 or #30 carburetor, there is really no need to remove the
main jet/nozzle. If the main jet/nozzle will not come out, don't worry about
it. All that has to be done is make sure that the bottom hole and side holes
in the main jet/nozzle are open. To check if the side holes are open, simply
spray WD-40 or aerosol carburetor cleaner through the small hole just beneath
the choke plate and observe if it comes out the main jet/nozzle inside the
throttle bore and float bowl area.
But if the main jet/nozzle is clogged, or if you're boring the venturi to
modify/rework the carburetor for high performance use, then the main jet/nozzle
must be removed. Before attempting to remove the main jet/nozzle, and if
the screwdriver slot is in good condition, then I found the best, easiest
and proven way to remove it is by the following process. This method works
great most of the time and the main jet/nozzle should loosen with no problems.
-
Remove the idle fuel mixture screw (so it won't get bent) and the high speed
needle adjuster so the tip won't get damaged when performing the procedure
mentioned below.
-
Cradle the carburetor body upside down (float area facing up) lengthways
on the open jaws of a large bench vise.
-
Place a
hand impact tool or a quality-made flat blade screwdriver
with a good, square end wide enough to fit the entire width of the threaded
hole and thick enough for more contact with the slot in the main jet/nozzle.
-
Using a medium size hammer, strike the impact driver or screwdriver sharply
and
perpendicular
several times while at the same time rotating the main jet/nozzle
counterclockwise
by hand (with the screwdriver)
to loosen it. Do not use a wooden handle screwdriver because the handle could
break.
-
If the above È didn't work, then perform
the removal method mentioned below Ê.
If the above È method still didn't work,
then unfortunately, sometimes the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube) will get
stuck in place and the screwdriver slot will strip out. (I hate when this
happens.) Do not use an
Easy Out [Broken] Screw Extractor! With this tool, the
tapered shape will force the main jet/nozzle to swell or spread outward (cause
it to increase in diameter), and the deeper it goes, it could possibly crack
the aluminum tube, rendering the carburetor body useless. The
alternative method to remove the main jet/nozzle is to drill it out.
This process is performed as follows:
-
First, remove the high speed needle adjuster so it will not get damaged and
interfere with the removal of the main jet/nozzle.
-
Firmly clamp the carburetor body with the mounting and choke ends making
contact with the jaws of a bench vise with the float area facing upward.
-
Drill
perpendicular
directly through the center of the main jet/nozzle with a 3/16" drill bit,
then carefully enlarge the hole with a 9/32" drill bit, and finally finish
drilling the hole with a 19/64" drill bit. Drill about 1" depth into the
main jet/nozzle.
-
Being very gentle, use a long, slender tapered punch with a very sharp, pointed
end and a small hammer to collapse the thin threads (thin remains) of the
main jet/nozzle. NOTE: Be very careful when doing
this! Because the aluminum tube could crack, rendering the carburetor body
useless.
-
Pry out the remains of the main jet/nozzle with
needle-nose pliers. If you're not able to remove the entire
main jet/nozzle with needle-nose pliers, insert a 7/32" diameter steel rod
through the high speed needle adjuster hole and drive out the remains of
the main jet/nozzle with the hammer. May have to position the rod slightly
angled through the hole so it can make contact with the end of the nozzle
to drive it out.
-
With the remains of the main jet/nozzle removed, use a 3/8-24 UNF plug hand
tap to reshape and clean the threads for installation of another main jet/nozzle.
Install a new main jet/nozzle, or a good used one from a junk/useless carburetor.
(See below.)
If the main jet/nozzle in a
junk/useless Carter or Kohler carburetor is stuck and cannot be removed
with a screwdriver, the threaded tube can be split with either a
nut splitter,
flat cold chisel and hammer (with the tube placed on a
hard, flat surface), or heat the tube with a
propane torch or an
oxy-acetylene torch until it splits apart. If attempting
to use the
nut splitter, be careful not to damage the main jet/nozzle
itself! After the main jet/nozzle is removed, use a hacksaw to cut the
screwdriver slot slightly deeper in the main jet/nozzle so it can be reused
in another carburetor.
How to Remove the Main Jet/Nozzle (Emulsion Tube) from a Carter Model
N #13, #16, #18, #20 or #22 Carburetor for Cleaning -

If the main jet/nozzle in a Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20
or #22 carburetor that's used on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161,
KV161,
L160/L161,
L181, K181 needs to be removed for cleaning, being this type
of nozzle is pressed in the carburetor body. It removes and reinstalls a
lot easier than the above È main jet/nozzle.
The removal and installation process is as follows:
-
Remove the idle fuel mixture screw (so it won't get bent upon reinstallation
of the main jet/nozzle), high speed needle adjuster, float bowl and float.
-
Place the carburetor body right-side up (float area facing down) on the open
jaws of a bench vise. Position the carburetor body crossways on the vise
jaws so the float hinge loops won't break off. Do not tighten the vise jaws
against the carburetor body.
-
Using a 4" length x 11/64" (.172") diameter steel punch with a blunt end
and a small hammer, go through the high speed needle hole from the top side
of the carburetor, and drive the main jet/nozzle out from the bottom of
carburetor body.
-
To reinstall the main nozzle, place the carburetor body upside-down on the
open jaws of the vise and use a 1/4" diameter steel [roll pin] punch and
small hammer to drive it in until it bottoms out, and the end can be seen
in the venturi.
By the way - as far as I know, new main jet/nozzles for the Carter Model
N #13, #16, #18, #20 or #22 carburetor is not available from any source.
How to Remove a Broken-Off High Speed Air/Fuel Mixture Adjustment Needle
Screw from a Carter or Kohler Carburetor -
Sometimes when an engine sits with gas in the fuel system, the old, dried
gas residue will cause the high speed air/fuel adjuster to become seized
in the carburetor body. And when attempting to remove it, the hollow tube
could will break off flush with the carburetor body. (Anything is possible
with soft brass and old, dried gas.) Anyway, The removal process of a broken-off
main adjuster is as follows:
-
Reach in through the choke end with
needle-nose pliers or small
long/needle-nose Vise-Grips locking pliers and break off
the needle part of the adjuster.
-
From the top of the carburetor body, drill out the threaded part of the adjuster
with a 3/16" drill bit, then work up to a 7/32" bit. Be sure to drill straight
down into the adjuster! For precision and full control of the drilling process,
this is best performed with the carburetor body clamped in a vice that's
fastened on the table of a milling machine. (The broken adjuster may screw
on out on its own when drilling it.)
-
If it don't screw out when drilling it, use a long, slender taper punch with
a very pointed end to collapse the remains of the adjuster so it can be removed
with the needle-nose pliers.
-
Use a 1/4-28 UNF plug hand tap to clean and straighten the threads for
installation of another adjuster.
If you don't feel comfortable removing the broken adjuster yourself, I charge
$30.00 labor each, plus return shipping & handling, to remove
a broken adjuster.
Using Pump Gas with 10% Ethanol Versus 100% Race Gas in a Pulling Tractor
-
First of all, in an daily-driven vehicle, gasoline with no lead is hard on
soft cast iron exhaust valve seats. A soft cast iron valve seat is one that's
been machined directly into an engine block or cylinder head, and it have
not been heated-treated or no hardened insert is installed. In a daily-driven
automobile, the seat(s) will eventually deteriorate or the metal will literally
"wear away" because the absence of lead in gas to provide a protective coating
to prevent wear. And being most exhaust valves are made of extremely hardened
steel, they're not likely to wear at all. The intake valve and the cast iron
seat is not likely to wear as much, if any. And an engine block or cylinder
head with heat-treated seats or have hardened steel exhaust valve seat insert(s)
installed, they should not wear whatsoever.
Anyway, the 10% ethanol in pump gas (common everyday automotive fuel) lessens
exhaust emissions. Plus, the alcohol content boosts the octane, making it
somewhat of a high performance fuel. The lead content in race gas (VP Racing
Fuel, Turbo Blue, Sunoco, Torco, etc.) boosts the octane also, except it's
alcohol-free to pass the tech fuel test for tractor pulling. And the valve
seat(s) that's ground in a cast iron block in a competition pulling engine
burning 87 octane unleaded regular gas should last a long time, no longer
than the tractor runs down the track (2-3 minutes per pull). They're not
being driven a long distance, like in a car or truck.
How
to test for alcohol content in gasoline.
Older-formula mothballs have also been used by drag racers to enhance the
octane rating of fuel, by dissolving the mothballs in some of the fuel and
filtering out the remains with a filter paper.
Adding 2 cycle engine oil to gasoline will also boost the octane rating of
the gas because the oil slows down the combustion process. The length of
the combustion burning process depends on the amount of oil added to the
gas. The oil content will help lubricate the cylinder wall and valves.
Average Octane Rating of Various Fuels | Remember - Only high
compression engines benefit from the use of high octane fuel to increase
the power output. High octane fuels have no effect whatsoever and will not
increase the power output when used in a low compression engine.
-
Regular unleaded automotive gasoline (without 10% ethanol): 87
octane.
-
Premium unleaded automotive gasoline with 10% ethanol: 91-92 octane.
-
Leaded aviation gas/jet fuel: 100 octane.
-
E30: 98.6 octane.
-
E85: 105 octane.
-
Liquefied Petroleum (LP) or Propane: 100-110 octane.
|
-
Leaded race gas (VP Racing Fuel, Turbo Blue, Sunoco, Torco, etc.): approximately
110 octane.
-
100% methanol: 110 octane.
-
100% ethanol: 110-112 octane.
-
99% isopropyl alcohol (Main ingredient in rubbing alcohol and gas line
antifreeze to disperse water in fuel): 120 octane.
-
Denatured alcohol: 130 octane.
-
Hydrogen
fuel: approximately 130 octane.
-
Compressed Natural Gas (CNG): 130 octane.
|
By the way - I've never had problems with gas having 10% ethanol in any of
my small engines or automotive engines. I don't know why anyone else would.
Maybe that's because when one is having problems with a small engine not
running right, it's much easier to just blame it on "bad gas" than to look
for the real problem elsewhere with the engine. Remember - it takes three
things to make an internal combustion engine run: carburetion, compression
and ignition. A professional, thorough and energetic mechanic don't blame
the problem on one thing and overlook the other two. Unless of course, he's
lazy and looking to make some quick money by doing an easy fix.
NOTE: The main jet (and fuel inlet hole) should
not be enlarged for alcohol-free, high octane racing gas, such as VP Racing
fuel, Turbo Blue, Sunoco, Premium gas, or gas with 10% ethanol, because these
fuels require the same air/fuel mixture ratio as for ordinary, low octane
automotive gas. If the main jet hole (orifice) is intentionally enlarged
for gasoline-based fuels, the engine will run too rich on fuel, and there'll
be no way to lean it out.
How
to test for alcohol content in gasoline.
Using
E85 Fuel in
a Garden Tractor or Lawn & Garden Equipment - [Top
of Page]
What is E85?
E85 is the term
for motor fuel blends (special blend of automotive fuel) of 85% ethanol (corn
alcohol AKA "moonshine") and 15% gasoline.
E85 is an
alternative fuel as defined by the U.S. Department of Energy. Besides its
superior performance characteristics, ethanol burns cleaner than pure gasoline;
it is a completely renewable, domestic, environmentally friendly fuel that
enhances the nation's economy and energy independence. The addition of ethanol
boosts octane and, because it is an oxygenate, ethanol contributes to a more
complete fuel combustion resulting in reduced emissions of carbon monoxide
and other ozone-forming emissions. Ethanol also degrades quickly in water
and, therefore, poses much less risk to the environment than an oil or gasoline
spill. To learn more about
E85, visit this
website: National Ethanol Vehicle
Coalition (http://www.e85fuel.com).
Click or tap here to learn
how to test for alcohol content in gasoline.
Fueling with E85
is not only beneficial to the environment, you'll most likely see a small
increase in performance, which will be accompanied by a small decrease in
fuel economy. On average, when an engine is powered by
E85, the engine
will have about 5% more horsepower and a 10% drop in fuel-efficiency. The
added power comes from ethanol's higher (105) octane rating. The fuel economy
decrease comes from the fact that ethanol has a lower energy content than
gasoline, which means the engine will have to use more of it. Only high
compression engines benefit from the use of high octane fuel to increase
the power output. High octane fuels have no effect whatsoever when used in
low compression engines.
E85 is available
from most gas pumps at about 15% less than 91 octane. It can be used in virtually
any gas engine fuel system, new or old. The only problem is, the rubber-like
fuel hose, seals and gaskets in the fuel system might deteriorate
due to the alcohol content in
E85.
Click or tap here to learn
how to test for alcohol content in gasoline. But if the fuel system has
neoprene
rubber or synthetic rubber parts, there should be no problems. E85 works
great for competition pulling, general lawn use or for any small engine
equipment. It'll create less carbon build up in the combustion chamber, too.
I've reworked lots of carburetors for people who use their garden tractor
just to mow grass with and they love how the E85 produces more power. Their
only complaint is the engine burns more fuel. But that's the sacrifice for
more power. If an engine is converted correctly, E85 should cause no problems
with engine wear or fuel system deterioration. Basically, all that needs
to be done to the engine is the main jet and fuel inlet (float valve) hole
in the carburetor will need to be made about 80% bigger and the ignition
timing will need to be advanced about 150% more than stock. If the main jet
isn't enlarged, the engine probably won't run on E85, or if it does, it will
run too lean on fuel, overheat the engine, possibly damage the valves, piston
and piston rings because of the excessive operating temperature. And if the
timing isn't advanced enough to thoroughly burn the [slower burning] E85
fuel, some of it will exit out the exhaust unburned, with no increase in
power.
No special motor oil is required with E85. But with prolonged idling, the
oil may need to be changed more often. The 20% increase in the main jet and
fuel inlet holes, and ignition timing applies to virtually all small engine
carburetors and engines, despite the make or manufacturer.
E85 can be purchased at select gas stations in the U.S. It cost less per
gallon than regular unleaded gasoline. And an engine will burn about 20%
more fuel than gas with E85, but it'll also produce about 10% more power,
operate cooler, have a cleaner combustion chamber and the engine will last
longer.
On the K161 and K181 Kohler K-series and Magnum engines, with the Carter
Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetor, the hole (orifice) in the main
jet for 100% gasoline measures exactly 3/64" (.046") in diameter. To convert
these carburetors for use with E85, enlarge the main jet and fuel inlet (float
valve) holes with a 5/64" or #47 (.078") drill bit. NOTE: Drill the fuel
inlet from the inside out (opposite flow of fuel) to prevent a burr that
may cause the carburetor to leak fuel or flood out. For accuracy, use a small
metal lathe to drill the hole bigger.
IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable using
a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist with
a lathe. The ignition timing will also need to be advanced
to 24º BTDC so the engine will take full advantage and make maximum
power of the slower burning, higher octane fuel. Then with the engine running
at 3,600 RPM, adjust the high-speed fuel mixture needle valve so the engine
runs smooth.
On the K241-K341 single- and twin-cylinder Kohler K-series and Magnum engines
with the older Carter or Kohler carburetors, the factory hole (orifice) in
the main jet size for 100% gasoline measures exactly 1/16" (.0625") in diameter.
To convert these carburetors for use with E85, enlarge the main jet and fuel
inlet (float valve) holes with a 3/32" or #42 (.094") drill bit. NOTE:
Drill the fuel inlet from the inside out (opposite flow of fuel) to prevent
a burr that may cause the carburetor to leak fuel or flood out. For accuracy,
use a small metal lathe to drill the hole bigger.
IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable using
a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist with
a lathe. The ignition timing will also need to be advanced
to 24º BTDC so the engine will make full advantage and make maximum
power of the slower burning, higher octane fuel. Then with the engine running
at 3,600 RPM, adjust the high-speed air/fuel mixture needle valve until the
engine runs smoothly.
To convert virtually any 4-cycle engine to run well and produce full
power on E85 fuel...
-
If an OEM factory [restrictive] air cleaner/filter assembly is going be
used, drill the main jet and fuel inlet (float valve) holes to 35% bigger
than their original size. For an engine that's going to use a less restrictive
air cleaner/filter assembly or no air filter at all, drill the holes to 40%
bigger than their original size. To calculate the size hole that needs
to be drilled, with a calculator, multiply the exact diameter of the main
jet and fuel inlet hole by 135 (with factory air filter) or 140 (with less
restrictive or no filter), hit the percent (%) key, which shows the approximate
size drill bit to use. Example: For the OEM Kohler K-series Carter/Kohler
carburetor gas main jet, multiply .060" x 135%, which will result to use
a .078" drill bit. NOTE: If the fuel inlet hole itself isn't made bigger,
when pulling down the track at open RPM, as soon as the float bowl fills
with fuel, the engine will suck it dry, and as the engine winds down due
to a momentarily lack of fuel in the float bowl, this allows more fuel to
get dumped into the bowl and the process repeats itself over and over. The
engine will rev up and wind down, up and down, etc.
-
Enlarge the lower hole on the high speed adjuster (Carter or Kohler
carburetors) so the engine will idle smooth. There's need to modify
anything else regarding the idle fuel passageway.
-
Advance the ignition timing 50% more than the stock setting. If
the OEM timing is 20º BTDC, advance it to 30º BTDC. (20 x 150%
= 30) The ignition timing may need to be set slightly more advanced to 32º
BTDC when the spark plug is positioned over the exhaust valve. If the timing
isn't advanced at all or advanced enough, some of the E85 will exit out the
exhaust unburned and the engine won't produce full power. And due
to excessive engine idling, the raw/unburned E85 in the combustion chamber
will travel past the ring gaps (especially when the engine is cold) and dilute
the crankcase oil even more.
When advancing the
ignition timing past 24º± BTDC, and if the camshaft has a working
automatic compression release mechanism, the compression release will need
to be disabled (tied down) with a nylon zip tie or baling wire, or removed
entirely. The reason being, with the excessive advanced timing, the compression
release will open the exhaust valve when spark occurs, and the engine will
pop out the exhaust, not be able to start, or be hard to start. Without a
compression release, to make the engine easier to crank over and start under
full compression, a high torque starter motor with separate starter and ignition
switches will need to be used to prevent engine "kick back."
If the engine "kicks back" too many times when attempting to start
it, this could bend or break the starter motor armature shaft, or break the
aluminum casing!
-
Increase the fuel flow with a 12 volt low
pressure electric fuel pump. If an insufficient amount of alcohol
is delivered to the carburetor, the engine will run like it's starving for
fuel. The engine will run up and down, up and down, etc. Use a
12 volt low pressure electric fuel pump
that delivers 3-4± PSI of pressure.
-
And that's it! The engine should run cooler, produce about 10% more power,
but it'll burn 30-40% more fuel, and due to contamination of the alcohol
in the E85, the crankcase oil may need to be changed more often. NOTE:
In cool weather, starting fluid (ether) may need to be sprayed into the
carburetor throttle bore just to get the engine started.
Click or tap here to learn
how to test for alcohol content in gasoline.
How to Convert a Briggs & Stratton
16hp, 18hp or 20hp Opposed Twin Cylinder Engine for Use with Methanol Fuel
- NOTE - This is recommended for competition pulling only and NOT
for general lawn and garden use. And a fuel pump is required ONLY when the
lowest part of the gas tank is positioned lower than the carburetor. It pumps
fuel up to the carburetor. Otherwise, if the lowest part of the tank is
positioned higher than the carburetor, the engine can run on a gravity feed
fuel system.

For
competition pulling only, the Briggs & Stratton 16hp, 18hp or 20hp opposed
twin cylinder engines can be converted for use with methanol fuel. As for
the carburetor, there is two ways to make this happen. The hole in the main
jet for gasoline is .063" in diameter. There is no need to drill out or enlarge
this hole. Just leave it alone. If it is enlarged, the engine will run too
rich on fuel and another main jet with a .063" hole will need to be installed.
Also, the fuel inlet hole (float needle valve hole) will need to be increased
to about twice its size. The OEM B&S float valve can be (re)used. And
being methanol requires more fuel delivery than gas, the diaphragms and springs
in the integrated fuel pump will need to be removed, reinstall the cover
gasket, the OEM fuel pump pulse-type port on both the fuel pump part of the
carburetor and engine block will need to be blocked off with 1/4"
vinyl vacuum caps with a small clamp, and a
12 volt low pressure electric
fuel pump will need to be connected to the fuel inlet port on the
OEM fuel pump. The methanol will flow directly through the OEM fuel pump
internals and to the carburetor.

And for the engine to make full power from the
slower-burning methanol fuel, the ignition timing will need to be advanced
more than the OEM setting. The OEM timing for B&S engines is fixed at
11º BTDC. For methanol, the timing will need to be advanced to 17º
BTDC. To advance the timing for methanol fuel, a special-made 3/16" square
offset flywheel key must be used. Offset flywheel keys
are originally made for racing go-karts and Junior Dragsters with the 5hp
Briggs & Stratton engine. They come in 2º, 4º, 6º and
8º increments (to advance the timing 2º, 4º, 6º and 8º
more than the OEM setting). Use the 6º offset key for a setting of 17º
BTDC (11º + 6º = 17º). Make sure the offset flywheel key is
installed correctly so the timing will be advanced (BTDC) and not retarded
(ATDC)! Do a
Google search for offset flywheel keys. Also, for an older
B&S engine with points and condenser, it's highly recommended to install
a new Magnetron™ electronic ignition module or a
universal electronic transistorized
ignition module for stable timing and a stronger spark. And as usual,
the crankcase oil will need to be changed more often when burning methanol
fuel.
The Advantages of Using
Methanol
Fuel in a Pulling Tractor - [Top of Page]
If the carburetor have been reworked and the ignition timing are adjusted
and set correctly, methanol can produce up to 13% increase in horsepower.
If the fuel is set slightly rich (which it should be), there's no need to
constantly adjust the carburetor settings and/or ignition timing to compensate
for changes in hot or cold weather conditions. Because of its low volatile
octane rating (ability to burn quick), methanol shouldn't be used for general
lawn use. It's primarily a high performance fuel only, and should be used
only in a high performance engine. Starting fluid (ether) or gasoline may
need to be sprayed or squirted into the carburetor to get the engine started
in cooler weather, though. And, faster gearing
may be needed because of the increase in horsepower and torque.
It may take some experimentation to get a particular tractor to perform on
methanol. Just because most experienced pullers get their tractors hooked-up
good on it is no reason anyone else can't. Once one do get their tractor
to perform well on methanol, they'll be reluctant to go back to gas. By the
way - methanol can be purchased at most places that sell racing fuels. And
it cost less than 1/3 of racing gas fuels (per gallon).
How to Use Methanol in a Garden Pulling
Tractor -
Methanol, also known as wood alcohol, is made primary from natural gas. And
is the best high performance fuel available. Far better than any expensive
"racing" petroleum fuel. It'll help any 4-stroke high performance engine
produce more power and run much cooler. Methanol is a safe fuel to use, too.
But if anyone feels uncomfortable using or converting an engine for use of
methanol, please consult with a professional engine builder.
Methanol will mix equally with water and it evaporates quickly. The important
thing to remember when storing methanol is the keep it in an air tight container
in a dry place. Because it can easily draw moisture when stored for a long
period, especially in a metal container. (Unlike plastic, steel gets cold,
which draws condensation.) If one suspects that water had gotten into the
methanol, it can be separated easily by using chamois leather. The chamois
will absorb the water and allow the methanol to pass through. If gas has
10% alcohol, then the alcohol will mix the water with the gas and it will
appear to have no water at all. The only way to separate the water from the
gas and alcohol is through a chamois. Again, the chamois will absorb the
water and allow the fuels to drain through.
If your club's sanctioning rules say that the methanol fuel must be able
to pass a water test, then just use 100% pure methanol with no oil. (To some
clubs, oil is also known as a "contaminant.") Pure methanol will remain clear
in water, but turn cloudy in water when mixed with oil. And it's important
that the high speed air/fuel mixture screw on the carburetor be richened
slightly, to keep from burning the piston (because of the lack of oil in
the fuel). Click or tap here
to learn how to test for alcohol content in gasoline.
Methanol has absolutely no effect on rubber,
neoprene
rubber or OEM carburetor or fuel system parts nor does it get stale like
gas does. (Don't just theorize about such things, believe in myths, rumors
or what some
[delusional]
people/mechanics/technicians tell you. Perform a scientific test to prove
to yourself and debunk the myths. I always do.) But methanol will corrode
aluminum as plain water does if it is not drained and allowed to evaporate
from the fuel system over an extended length of time. After the methanol
is drained and flushed out of the fuel system, motor oil should be applied
to the metal parts to protect the surfaces from oxidation.
Because methanol will ignite only in a narrow range of high temperatures,
it is less likely to catch on fire should an accident occur. If methanol
does catch on fire, unlike gasoline, water can extinguish the flames.
Methanol burns much slower than the highest octane
gasoline and E85. (It has about 135 octane rating.) Therefore, the
ignition timing must be advanced more than
for gas when burning methanol. If the timing isn't advanced enough, some
of the methanol will go unburned and little will be gained. Modifications
to the point lobe on the camshaft may
need to be made in order to achieve the full ignition timing setting. Methanol
also require a hotter spark. Therefore, a high-output/performance
ignition coil is needed, along with a wide spark
plug gap (.060"). NOTE - Never run over-advanced
ignition timing with any petroleum-based fuel (gas) just to try to get "more
power." All that does is seriously overheat the engine and could weaken
(collapse) the piston rings, shrink the piston, warp the cylinder head and
exhaust valve and it could even cause the engine block to crack.
As methanol burns, it produces tremendous combustion chamber pressures under
wide-open throttle conditions, especially in engines that's been ported,
with oversized valves and a big cam, and even more so during cooler weather.
To prevent possible cylinder/crankcase separation or an "engine explosion,"
the cylinder must be securely "strapped" or fastened to the crankcase. Especially
on K301 engines and up. So strap it now, or scrap it later! Methanol
works best in a high compression engine, too.
"Strapping" the cylinder to the crankcase is when a flat piece of heavy steel
or aluminum is across the cylinder head and fastened by means of two minimum
1/2" diameter threaded rods, one located just behind the flywheel and the
other on the PTO end of the block. It keeps the cylinder from literately
breaking loose from the crankcase because of a thin cylinder wall and/or
due to extremely high compression.
Moreover, if you had a K241 block bored for a K301 piston, or a K301 block
bored for a K321 piston, and if the tractor is used to push snow, definitely
strap the cylinder to the crankcase! Because it now has a much thinner cylinder
wall, and the cold winter air is more dense (like the air is thicker or there's
more of it). Dense air will build up the compression pressure within the
combustion chamber, causing the engine to produce more power. But what also
happens is at full throttle, this high compression is pushing upward on the
cylinder head, and pulling upward on the cylinder wall. And sometimes the
cylinder wall will break, ruining the whole engine. I know, I've seen this
happen to a good engine. No joke.
Advertisement:
 To place an order, send your item(s) for repairing, and/or
for customer service assistance, and FREE honest and accurate technical
support, please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises, 12091
N Route B, Hallsville, MO (Missouri) 65255-9604 USA. Please call in your
order or send an email with a list parts you need and your contact information.
Phone: 1-573-881-7229 (cell;
call, text or leave voicemail) or use
Whatsapp. Please call
Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone, except holidays. If no answer,
please try again later. E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
Payment Options. A-1 Miller's shop is open
to the public Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone, with an appointment
on weekends, except holidays. If you're the kind of person who don't trust
delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's new shop (click
image to the right) to personally purchase parts, or drop off and/or pick
up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine and/or parts, etc., for repairing
and/or rebuilding. Or visit the address of our (old) shop mentioned above
to drop off your engine, transmission, transaxle, garden tractor, small motorized
vehicle, etc. We also custom build pulling tractors and other small vehicles.
Please contact me before coming so I'll be at my shop waiting for your arrival.
When you visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with the owner for
the best customer service. "The road to a [trusted] friend's house (or
shop) is never long." Don't sacrifice quality workmanship for distance.
Photos
of our new building/shop are posted here!
12091 N Route B, Hallsville, MO - Google Maps.
[Return To Previous Paragraph, Section
or Website] |
Cylinder Restraint Strap Kit for Kohler K241-K341/M10-M16 K-series and Magnum
Engines. Professionally made. This setup is easy to remove and reinstall
when it comes time to freshen the engine. It looks nice and very strong.
Prevents cylinder/crankcase separation (engine explosion) during cool weather
when cylinder is bored thin for an excessively oversize piston. A must
for methanol burning engines. NOTE: An additional 3/8" threaded hole may
need to be made for mounting of brace on PTO end of block.
-
A-1 Miller part. $45.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
|
Methanol fuel produces a "cooling effect" as it enters an engine at high
velocity when the engine is running at open RPM. And, it's a clean burning
fuel, it won't carbon up the combustion chamber, foul-out the spark plug
or even harm the ozone layer. The crankcase motor
oil may need to be changed periodically though.
Here's another thing concerning methanol fuel - when methanol evaporates,
it leaves behind very small particles of white, flaky residue deposits in
the entire fuel system, which is completely normal and unavoidable. These
deposits can clog and ruin a good fuel filter, but will not harm any other
parts of the fuel system or the engine. So to keep from having any [future]
fuel flow problems and help prevent from losing a good pull, don't install
a fuel filter in the system to trap any dirt/debris, because it will
also trap the white, flaky residue deposits! Instead, strain the fuel through
a filtering material, such as a
coffee filter,
paint filter,
fine mesh screen wire,
clean cloth shop towel or a
fine woven fabric window curtain, while it's poured into
the fuel tank. Place the filtering material in a
large funnel, and pour the fuel through it into the tank.
The filtering material should be thoroughly cleaned for use next time. But
first, make sure the fuel tank and the rest of the fuel system is perfectly
clean, and kept clean! And if there are any very small particles of dirt/debris
present in the fuel, they should pass through the carburetor, being the fuel
passages have been enlarged for the methanol.
Fuel filters can only filter so much of a grain of dirt/debris/grit. Anything
smaller will pass through, most of time causing no harm. Sometimes a hair
will pass through a wire mesh fuel filter, lodging in the float valve, keeping
it from fully closing because the hair can't get past the bend. It'll cause
the carburetor to over-flow and flood in a short time if the fuel tank is
higher than the carburetor (gravity feed system). On certain small engines,
the flooding gas will seep down into the motor oil, ruining it. Briggs &
Stratton riding mower engines are notorious for this. All that can be done
to fix this is clean out the carburetor and hope it doesn't happen again,
or take the time to filter the gas before it's poured in the tank. And if
there's enough fresh gas in the crankcase, sometimes the crankcase will explode
if the engine backfires through the carburetor. If the crankcase breather
is connected to the carburetor or air cleaner/filter assembly, the flame
from the backfire will travel through the breather cover and into the crankcase.
(I've also seen this happen a few times.)
When burning E85 or methanol fuels, more fuel volume (increase in flow) is
required and a
12 volt
low pressure electric fuel pump should be used. The carburetor
on most garden tractor engines don't require a lot of fuel pressure. One
nice thing about
12 volt
low pressure electric fuel pumps, besides being very reliable,
is that they're self-priming. Meaning when an engine runs out of fuel, there's
less risk of burning up the starter motor from excessive cranking for a vacuum
or mechanical pump to deliver gas to the carburetor. With an electric fuel
pump, as soon as the ignition is turned on (if the pump is wired in with
the ignition circuit) or when power is supplied to it, the electric fuel
pump instantly delivers gas to the carburetor.
METHANOL vs GAS -
Most garden tractor carburetors can be easily converted for methanol use.
The main thing to keep in mind is that methanol require about twice the volume
of fuel than gas. (Approximately a 5-6:1 ratio for methanol versus 10-12:1
ratio for gas). To run methanol, the main jet and fuel inlet (float valve)
holes will need to be enlarged to about 95% of their original size.
High compression engines naturally operate at a higher operating temperature.
When using low octane gasoline (Regular Unleaded or 87 octane rating) in
a high compression engine, the octane of the gas is reduced by 1 point for
every 10º above the normal operating combustion chamber temperature
that it is formulated for. This will cause the gas to burn faster. When trying
to restart a high compression overheated engine on low octane gas, what is
happening is the gas is burning quickly and entirely in the combustion chamber,
and producing expanding heat before the piston reaches TDC, driving the piston
back down in the cylinder before it reaches TDC. This is the cause of detonation
(pounding of the piston) and it'll cause the engine to "grunt" or momentarily
make the crankshaft rotate in the opposite direction (but the weight of the
flywheel prevents this from happening). Overheating could also crack the
[cast iron] cylinder, shrink the piston, burn a hole in the piston (detonation)
and weaken the expansion of the piston rings. Methanol fuel has an octane
rating of 135. This is why methanol works best in a high performance, high
compression engine.
White deposits on the exhaust valve and in the combustion chamber is normal
with gas fuels. Due to the lesser amount of gas in E85, it leaves behind
very little deposits, and methanol doesn't leave any deposits because there's
no carbon in the fuel. Only fossil fuels have carbon in them and that's what's
left behind in the combustion chamber and on the exhaust valve.
Did you know that high octane gas or "race car gas" (approximately 109-110
octane) is much better than any filling station pump gas when used in a high
performance engine? Higher octane gas burns slow, producing more heat, thus
allowing an engine to develop more power. Because heat is how an engine produces
power. Methanol fuel produces even more heat than gas does.
Methanol never gets stale while setting around. It's burning factors (the
qualities that produce power) remain intact until all of the fuel evaporates.
Gasoline on the other hand, as it gets aged and stale, it's burning factors
is the first thing to go. Unlike methanol, eventually all that is left of
the old gas is some "foul smelling residue." Methanol never smells "old"
or "stale."
If the air/fuel ratio isn't properly adjusted with both methanol or gasoline,
possible engine damage may result. If either fuel is leaned-out too much,
possible piston to cylinder wall scuffing, scoring or even seizure may result.
If methanol is ran too rich, the oil on the cylinder wall may be diluted,
causing excessive wear to the piston, rings and sometimes the cylinder wall.
And if gas is ran too rich, loss in power may result with possible spark
plug fouling. (Methanol is more forgiving to an engine than gas.)
A high performance cam, larger piston, big valves and a bigger carburetor
will undoubtedly help gas-burning engines develop more power. But only
from the use of the parts themselves. Methanol on the other hand, will
help give an engine a little more boost. Simply from the fuel itself.
Engines will consume less fuel burning gas than methanol. Something good
for gas and not for methanol. Which is why methanol is not used on the open
market in daily driven automobiles.
Some racing gasolines could eventually cause an engine to wear prematurely
when used under high performance conditions (and if the ignition timing is
over-advanced). Piston wear, piston ring expansion failure, valve warping,
even motor oil breakdown could result over time due to the high operating
temperatures of gas in a high compression engine. (Especially on air cooled
engines with no cooling system.)
An engine runs cooler burning methanol than gas. The reason why? Approximately
twice the amount of methanol fuel enters an engine. There's more fuel per
parts of air. As a result, this allows an engine to operate at a much cooler
temperature. Gasoline on the other hand, runs less fuel per parts of air.
Therefore, it's a "lean" burning fuel. Gas allows a high-compression engine
to operate at a higher temperature. Which in turn could cause premature engine
wear. Simply because too much heat itself will cause a good engine to
wear out faster than anything else.
For more information on methanol, click here:
Erowid Alcohol Vault : Methanol Material Safety Data Sheet
and Race
fuel - Alcohol fuels.
100% ethanol (AKA moonshine) and
denatured
alcohol burns pretty much the same as 100% methanol. There's very little
difference between these alcohol fuels. If an engine is converted correctly
for use with these fuels, it will produce the same amount of power, run cooler
and last longer.
By the way - If you've ever wondered if moonshine runners burned moonshine
in their cars, well, they probably didn't. Because first of all, they needed
to make money off the moonshine that they made. And second, the engine would
need to be converted and car modified for use with 100% pure alcohol so it
would burn thoroughly and it wouldn't cause harm to the engine at higher
RPM. This means the hole in the fuel inlet seat and main jet hole (orifice)
in the carburetor would need to be drilled twice their original size, a bigger
fuel line would need to be installed for more fuel flow, a
12 volt
low pressure electric fuel pump would also need to be installed
to pump twice the volume of fuel from the tank to the carburetor, a
high-secondary voltage ignition system would need to be installed with wider
spark plug gaps, and the ignition timing would need to be advanced to 38º
BTDC to thoroughly burn the alcohol. And after all this, the car would burn
TWICE as much fuel resulting in VERY poor mileage. And they couldn't stop
and fill up along the way with more moonshine while the cops were on their
tail! (Gasoline would be a lot more economical!)
On the K90, K141, K160, K161, K181/M8 Kohler K-series and Magnum engines,
with the Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetor, the hole (orifice)
in the main jet size for 100% gasoline measures exactly 3/64" (.046") in
diameter. To convert these carburetors for use with methanol, enlarge the
main jet and fuel inlet (float valve) holes with a 3/32" (.094") diameter
drill bit. NOTE: Drill through the fuel inlet hole from inside out (opposite
flow of fuel) to prevent a burr that may prevent the float valve from sealing,
which could cause the carburetor to leak fuel or flood. The ignition
timing will also need to be advanced to 30º BTDC so the engine will
take full advantage and make maximum power of the slower burning, higher
octane fuel. Then with the engine running at 3,600± RPM, adjust the
high-speed fuel mixture needle valve so the engine runs smooth.
On the K241-K341 single- and twin-cylinder Kohler K-series and Magnum engines
Carter or Kohler carburetors with the fully adjustable high speed main jet,
the factory hole (orifice) in the main jet size for 100% gasoline measures
exactly 1/16" (.0625") in diameter. To convert these carburetors for use
with methanol, enlarge the hole in the fuel inlet (float valve) with a 7/64"
(.109") drill bit, and then enlarge the hole (orifice) in the main jet/nozzle
(emulsion tube) with a #32 or 3mm drill bit. NOTE: Drill through the fuel
inlet hole from inside out (opposite flow of fuel) to prevent a burr that
may prevent the float valve from sealing, which could cause the carburetor
to leak fuel or flood. The ignition timing will also need to be advanced
to 30º BTDC so the engine will take full advantage and make maximum
power of the slower burning, higher octane fuel. Then if it's a stock engine,
with the engine running at 3,600± RPM, adjust the high-speed air/fuel
mixture needle valve until the engine runs smoothly.
A Kohler, Kawasaki, etc., V-twin engine with a 2-barrel carburetor with
separate/individual intake runners, one barrel can lean out due to a partially
clogged main jet, while the other barrel will provide plenty of fuel to the
cylinder. The cylinder with the partially clogged jet will run hotter than
normal, which can cause the piston rings to lose their expansion against
the cylinder wall. The cylinder head can also warp and valve seats can loosen
and fall out of their counterbore. This is why most pullers prefer to use
a single barrel carburetor.
To convert virtually any 4-cycle engine to run well and produce full
power on 100% methanol or denatured alcohol fuels...
-
If an OEM factory [restrictive] air cleaner/filter assembly is going be
used, drill the main jet and fuel inlet (float valve) holes to 35% bigger
than their original size. For an engine that's going to use a less restrictive
air cleaner/filter assembly or no air filter at all, drill the holes to 40%
bigger than their original size. To calculate the size hole (orifice)
that needs to be drilled, with a calculator, multiply the exact diameter
of the main jet and fuel inlet hole by 135 (with factory air filter) or 140
(with less restrictive or no filter), hit the percent (%) key, which shows
the approximate size drill bit to use. NOTE: If the fuel inlet hole itself
isn't made bigger, when pulling down the track at open RPM, as soon as the
float bowl fills with fuel, the engine will suck it dry, and as the engine
winds down due to the lack of fuel, this allows more fuel to get dumped into
the bowl and the process repeats itself over and over. The engine will run
up and down, up and down, etc.
-
Advance the ignition timing 180% more than the stock setting. If
the OEM timing is 20º BTDC, advance it to 36º BTDC. (20 x 180%
= 36) The ignition timing will need to be set slightly more advanced to 38º
BTDC when the spark plug is positioned over the exhaust valve. If the timing
isn't advanced at all or advanced enough, some of the alcohol will exit the
exhaust unburned and the engine won't produce full power. The excess raw
alcohol in the combustion chamber will travel past the ring gaps (especially
when the engine is cold) and dilute the crankcase oil even more.
When advancing the
ignition timing past 24º± BTDC, and if the camshaft has an automatic
compression release, it will need to be removed because the spark will occur
when the exhaust valve opens slightly to relieve some of the compression,
possibly preventing the engine from starting or making it hard to start.
And to make the engine easier to crank over easier and start under full
compression, a high torque starter motor with separate starter and ignition
switches to prevent "kick back" will need to be used.
-
Increase the fuel flow with a 12 volt low pressure
electric fuel pump. If an insufficient amount of alcohol is delivered
to the carburetor, the engine will run like it's starving for fuel. When
pulling down the track, the engine will run up and down, up and down, etc.
Use a 12 volt low pressure electric fuel pump
that delivers 3-4± PSI of pressure.
-
And that's it. The engine should run cooler, produce about 10% more power,
but it'll burn 30-40% more fuel! NOTE: In cool weather, starting fluid
(ether) or gasoline primer may need to be sprayed in the carburetor just
to get the engine started. And the crankcase oil will need to be changed
more frequently when burning alcohol fuels. By the way - Starting fluid (or
gas primer) is supposed to be sprayed or applied in the carburetor, not directly
in the combustion chamber through the spark plug hole. Because it needs to
first mix with hydrogen in the air to create a combustible mixture. This
is exactly how my remote fuel primer bulb system kit
works to start a cold engine.
Testing Methanol Fuel for Contaminants -
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clear, like water. To test it for an added lubricant or water, pour a small
amount of methanol in a clean, clear capped glass container with a small
amount of oil or water, then shake it. If it appears "cloudy," it's contaminated.
You can also smell methanol for contaminants.
It's a good idea to use a small amount of special
upper cylinder lubricant (such as
Lucas Oil Upper Cylinder Lubrication,
M2 Upper Lube & Lead Additive,
Marvel Mystery Oil, etc.) mixed with methanol to prevent
possible piston to cylinder scoring and to help lubricate the valve stems
and guides. If a lubricant isn't used and if methanol is ran too lean (especially
in cool weather), this could ruin a good high-dollar piston and possibly
score the cylinder wall. Methanol must be ran rich if no lubricant is mixed
with it. But some sanctioning pulling rules don't allow lubricant to be mixed
with methanol because it boosts the octane and will likely fail in a fuel
test, which means the tractor will be disqualified after competing. The more
oil that is added, the higher the octane will be.
When pulling under rules that require 100% methanol
fuel, and if a tractor have been using methanol with a lubricant, be sure
to completely drain and flush the entire fuel system. Use 150± PSI
compressed air to clear out the fuel tank, fuel hose, fuel pump, carburetor,
etc. Because any trace amount of lubricant remaining will mix with the methanol
and be cause for failure in a fuel test. Some new
neoprene
rubber fuel hoses contains oil. This means if 100% methanol is supposed to
be used, the fuel hose must be flushed with
electrical contact cleaner,
brake parts cleaner,
cleaning solvent or
paint thinner (these leave no oily residue), then use
150± PSI compressed air to clear it out, and then allow it to thoroughly
air-dry.
|
When running a pulling engine at
open
RPM, sometimes the engine will starve for fuel with gravity feed fuel
system. Therefore, Kohler's camshaft-driven mechanical fuel pump or a
12 volt
low pressure electric fuel pump should be used to guarantee that
the carburetor will receive plenty of fuel at all times. The mechanical pump
should be used on a pulling tractor when burning gas only. They're
not capable of delivering sufficient amount of fuel with E85 or methanol
at high RPM like an electric pump will.
For a pulling tractor, if
methanol fuel is subject to
a water test, don't add WD-40 or oil in the pump. Just drain and clear
out all fuel, use compressed air to remove any remaining fuel from the pump,
and store the tractor in a cool, dry environment.
Information About the Fuel Atomization Chamber
Intake Tube / Carburetor Extension - (Updated 5/30/18)
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Using
a fuel atomization chamber intake tube to space the carburetor away from
the engine block allows the fuel to atomize better (break down into smaller
particles or a fine mist) so the engine will produce more power and torque
at higher RPM. The further the carburetor is spaced from the engine block
(flathead engines) or cylinder head(s) on OHV engines, the better the fuel
will atomize and the more power the engine will produce. This is why most
naturally-aspirated high performance automotive V8 engines use a high-rise
intake manifold.
A 1" carburetor spacer will definitely help atomize the fuel into smaller
particles so the engine will produce more noticeable power, and it'll help
the engine last longer and burn less fuel. On average, dyno tests had proven
that engines with a 1" spacer produced about 12% more horsepower and torque.
This is why virtually all [aluminum block] Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh,
and other makes and models of small engines use a factory-installed intake
tube. But for some reason, cast iron block single cylinder Kohler engines
are the only ones that didn't come with an intake tube.
When choosing the length of the intake tube, it seems that a 3" length works
best for gas, and 5" length works best for E85 or methanol. Because gas runs
more lean than E85 or methanol, it requires less space or distance to fully
atomize, and being E85 and methanol fuels run richer, they need more space
or distance to fully atomize before they enter the combustion chamber.
For competition pulling, if club's rules state that no intake tube can be
used with the carburetor, a heat isolator
gasket will work great instead. (Manufactured of heat-resistant
phenolic
resin.) The heat isolator gasket isolates the carburetor body from engine
heat so when the cool fuel from the carburetor makes contact with the warm
engine, the fuel will instantly atomize better before it enters the combustion
chamber, which will help the engine produce more power and torque.
In addition, "roughing up" the inside of the intake tube will help create
turbulence to "break up" and atomize the fuel better and should help a Kohler
engine produce a few more ponies. This works for automotive engines, and
it should work for Kohler engines as well.
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On
single cylinder Kohler competition pulling engines that run at open RPM,
when using a mounting gasket between the intake tube and intake port, due
to normal high RPM engine vibrations, the [somewhat soft] gasket will allow
the tube (and carburetor) to vibrate and possibly cause one half of the intake
port (with a huge enlarged port opening, which weakens the port) to break
off. This is based on fact and has been known to happen. So to prevent this
from happening, instead of using a gasket, a shallow, narrow groove can be
machined in one end of the flange of the tube for a reusable small
cross-sectional diameter neoprene rubber O-ring. The O-ring will take place
of the gasket to prevent a vacuum leak. The O-ring will compress, guaranteeing
metal to metal contact to secure the tube directly to the engine block. The
same can be done to a carburetor mounting flange.
Another way to gain more horsepower and torque at virtually any RPM besides
roughing up the inside of the intake tube is to fabricate a spiral fuel atomizer
from ordinary sheet metal steel. This particular part is made the same length
but a few thousandths bigger in width than the intake tube, twisted one time
(180º), and is fitted snugly inside the intake tube. This is a dyno-proven
add-on and performance modification that increases engine horsepower and
torque by about 5-10%.
Also for competition pulling, with an intake tube in use, mounting gaskets
are not necessary. Just resurface the carburetor mounting flange and ends
of the intake tube (if needed) on a wide, flat
belt- or disc-sander to remove warpage and restore flatness
(use eye protection!), and then apply a thin bead of
clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant with no gasket. When
a gasket is used, the bolts or nuts (with studs) are tightened, the softness
of the gasket could cause the carburetor flange to warp and possibly break.
With no gasket involved, there will be metal to metal contact with the silicone
filling in the open gaps between the two metals, and there is NO WAY the
flange can warp or possibly break! By the way - I've always preferred
to use
clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant for three reasons:
Gaskets don't always seal the irregularities between mating metals, especially
thin metal covers; being it's an adhesive, it bonds parts together, forming
a leak-proof seal; and being it's clear, it makes for a clean and
professional-looking repair job. When applied sparingly, it can't be easily
seen or noticed between the parts.
Use a Bigger Air Filter
on a Pulling Engine -
If an engine has a carburetor with a bored-out venturi, bigger ports, bigger
valves, a big cam and it runs at open RPM, then it will definitely benefit
from use of a bigger air filter. All of these things will undoubtedly allow
an engine to draw in a lot more air at high RPM. If rules require that the
engine must have an air filter, stack two air filters on top of each other
(install a longer mounting stud, too), or use an OEM K341/K361 or opposed
(flathead) twin cylinder air cleaner/filter assembly (they're twice as tall
than the K241, K301 and K321 air filter) or install a velocity stack and
use an aftermarket K&N air filter. The bigger air filter is so free-flowing
and less restrictive, using an air filter this size would the same as not
using an air filter all. The shorter K241, K301 and K321 air cleaner/filter
assembly is too restrictive for open RPM operation. But if it's a basically
stock engine with a stock carburetor, stock size ports and valves, and a
stock cam, there'll be very little gained with a bigger air filter. If you
pull on a lot of dusty tracks, then it would be worth investing in an air
filter to save wear on the engine.
How To Convert a Carter or Kohler Carburetor For High Performance Use
At Any Engine RPM -
By boring out the
venturi
(the smallest part of a throttle bore) and reworking the Carter or Kohler
carburetor, this will "open up the carburetor" and allow the engine to draw
more air into the combustion chamber so it can build up more compression,
which will allow it to produce more power. (It'll be like going from a small
2-barrel carburetor to a large 4-barrel carburetor on a V8 automotive engine.)
Although the below Ê method is considered
"Old School" by today's standards, it has been proven to help the engine
produce more horsepower and torque on the
dynamometer
(dyno), and allow the tractor to pull much stronger on the track, and it
equals the performance of the popular and high dollar recast (Kohler)
carburetors. A bored-out venturi and reworked carburetor is when the carburetor
is modified for maximum performance to increase the power of the engine.
NOTE: The venturi in a Chinese-made Kohler-replicated #26 carburetor can
be bored out to is 1.09" or 1-7/64", the same diameter as the throttle bore.
But the maximum the venturi in a Chinese-made Kohler-replicated #30 carburetor
(which actually has a throttle bore diameter of 29.76mm / 1.17") can be bored-out
to is 1". If it's bored-out any bigger centered of the throttle bore, being
the #26 and #30 are cast in the same mold and machined the same externally,
the boring process will likely break through where the fuel inlet port is,
rendering carburetor body useless. But the OEM Kohler #30 carburetor can
be bored out to 1.2", the same as the throttle bore, with no risk of breaking
into the fuel inlet port. A bored-out venturi and reworked carburetor is
when the carburetor is modified for maximum performance for general yard
and garden use, and/or for competition pulling.
-
Completely disassemble carburetor, including removal of the throttle shaft/plate
and main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube), except for removal of the choke shaft/plate
if it's required in the rules to be intact, and thoroughly clean the carburetor
body and metal parts with an
ultrasonic
cleaning machine. Personally, I use automotive windshield washer fluid
and a small amount of laundry detergent in my ultrasonic cleaner and it cleans
carburetor and other small parts very well. Although
Berryman® Chem-Dip® Carburetor and Parts Cleaner
can also be used to dissolve or loosen any dried gas deposits, crud and debris.
And use brake cleaner, parts cleaner or paint thinner to finish cleaning
off the remaining grime, then blow-dry the parts with 150± PSI compressed
air and to clear the debris from the carburetor body and idle fuel
passageway.
-
Resurface the choke flange on a wide, flat
belt- or disc-sander to remove any gasket material and
ensure proper alignment when boring the throttle bore, and resurface the
mounting flange to remove warpage and restore flatness, and to prevent a
vacuum leak. (I use the side of the cutting wheel on my
14" electric chop saw with a metal cut-off wheel. Works
great! Be sure to use eye protection, too!)
-
Clamp the carburetor body securely on the table of a milling machine and
center the throttle bore with the spindle with use of a
centering indicator. Clamp down the table. If intact, be
sure the choke plate is in the closed position!
-
Use a reamer or large drill
bit of a specific diameter to bore the venturi. Enlarge the venturi to either
a limit of .995" or 1", make it a straight-through design (to match the diameter
of the throttle bore) or enlarge it to whatever your club's sanctioning rules
allow. Turn the cutting tool at a slow speed, and apply a
continuous spray of WD-40 while boring the venturi to create a smooth,
slick surface in the throttle bore.
-
Soak the carburetor body and all related parts (except rubber-like parts)
in carburetor cleaner overnight. Then clean the carburetor with brake cleaner,
parts cleaner or paint thinner and use 150± PSI compressed air to thoroughly
clear out all fuel and air passageways.
-
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Grind an angle on the end of the main jet/nozzle
(emulsion tube). To do this correctly so the engine will rev up with no
hesitation whatsoever...
-
Reinstall the main jet/nozzle in the carburetor body and tighten it down.
-
Use a black felt tip ink marker
(Sharpie or a
center punch to locate where to grind the angle on the
end of the main jet/nozzle:
-
For a K241-K341 Kohler engine with a stock size intake valve, go through
the throttle plate end of the carburetor and place a mark on the center
of the exposed end of the nozzle.
-
For a K241-K341 Kohler engine with an oversize intake valve (larger
than stock), go through the choke end of the carburetor and place
a mark on the center of the exposed end of the nozzle.
-
The mark will be reference where to grind the angle when the main jet/nozzle
is removed from the carburetor. See animated photo below
Ê. FYI - When storing a felt
tip ink marker, store it with the capped end (felt tip) down. This allows
more ink to drain into the tip so the marker will make bolder writing and
it allows all the ink in the container to be used.
-
Remove the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube), then carefully and gently grind
a 60º angle where the mark
(Sharpie,
Magic Marker or
center punch) is made. Use a bench grinder,
belt- or disc-sander, or the side of an
electric chop saw with a metal cut-off wheel to better
see the angle. NOTE: When grinding the 60º angle, carefully grind
away 3/4 of the tip, but leave 1/4 of the end of the tip flat. Be careful
not to shorten the nozzle when grinding the angle, and make sure the angle
is centered with the mark. If the tip is ground too short or not centered
with the mark (throttle bore), the engine may hesitate or need to be "hand
choked" to rev up. See drawing to the upper right.
ä
-
After grinding the angle, use a
deburring tool or drill bit (that fits the hole) to remove
the burr from the nozzle. The end of the nozzle must be fully open. Then
use 150± PSI compressed air to clear out any metal fragments from inside
the nozzle.
-
Reinstall the nozzle in the carburetor and check that the angle is in perfect
center alignment with the throttle bore.
-
Due to normal engine vibration
at high RPM, plug the original atmospheric vent opening (air passageway from
inside the float bowl area to outside of carburetor) and then drill a 3/32"
hole on the side of the carburetor body in alignment with the atmospheric
vent opening (air passageway from inside the float bowl area to outside of
carburetor) in case of gas overflow and/or so the engine won't possibly run
erratically rich on fuel. Or for safety and convenience, leave out the choke
shaft and plate, plug the choke shaft holes, and install my
remote fuel primer system kit as described elsewhere
in this website.
-
The OEM hole size in the main jet is .0625".
Do not drill out or enlarge
this hole! If it's enlarged, the engine will definitely run too rich
on fuel and another main jet with a .0625" hole will need to be installed.
-
The float will need to be positioned upward more than normal. To do this,
with the carburetor body turned upside-down, set the float so it will be
downward, which will position it upward with the carburetor turned right
side up. At open RPM, this will permit the float to drop down more than usual
as fuel level decreases in the float bowl, allowing the fuel inlet needle
valve to open further so more fuel will be delivered in the float bowl. See
the drawing to the right. à
-
Idle Fuel Passageway:
Use a
1/32" high speed steel spiral drill bit to enlarge
the lower hole (orifice) on high speed needle air/fuel adjuster screws in
Carter or Kohler #26, #28 and #30 carburetors to create more suction through
the tube for the fuel so engine will start quicker (when throttle is in idle
position), idle better, and idle down upon deceleration without stalling.
No need to use this on adjusters with two lower holes. NOTE:
Carefully enlarge the hole by hand with drill bit clamped in a
mini micro pin vise hand drill chuck. Be careful when handling
any tiny drill bit because they can break easily. After enlarging hole, use
150± PSI compressed air to clear out any metal cuttings from inside
the adjuster tube. Make sure the entire idle fuel passageway is clear
of debris, too. Leave the welch plug intact, or if necessary, remove it only
to clear out any debris from the factory-drilled idle holes next to the throttle
plate. If performed correctly, the carburetor should idle just fine and rev
up with no hesitation whatsoever as described in this section. If the engine
is going to run at open RPM, it is recommended that the carburetor be converted
for use with the bottom main fuel
adjuster as described in this website.
-
On the throttle shaft, grind
the area opposite the throttle plate until the shaft is about 1/16" thickness
so more air can pass around the shaft at high RPM, but leave the screw holes
"lumped up" to prevent stripping the threads and to maintain strength in
the shaft. See photo to the right. à
-
Reassemble the carburetor using a new overhaul/rebuild kit and install a
bronze throttle shaft bushing if it
needs one, set the idle air/fuel mixture screw at 1-1/2 turns from lightly
bottoming out, and set the high speed needle adjuster at 6 turns from lightly
bottoming out against the main jet hole, and that's it! Make final air/fuel
adjustments until the engine idles smooth and revs smoothly. If done correctly,
this carburetor modification will perform with any "high performance" carburetor
on the market.
(Added 7/5/24)
Please click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, if you need
a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in
this website, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer
service assistance and support and payment options.
Nostalgic Memorabilia -
Back in the day (early 1980s and earlier), gasoline at most
filling service gas stations for various [automotive and
other types of] engines were for the following compression ratios: For an
engine with a compression ratio up to 9.25:1, it was safe to use
Regular gasoline (low octane); if the compression ratio
is between 9.25:1-10.50:1, the engine required
Premium gasoline (mid octane), which was also known as
High Test in various locations; and for compression ratios above 10.50:1,
the engine required
Ethyl gasoline (high octane). Nowadays, due to the lead
content in Ethyl, it's been replaced with Premium Unleaded, which was also
known as Super Unleaded in various locations. Actually, ALL gasoline in the
early days contained lead
(Tetraethyllead)
to boost octane and protect soft cast iron valve seats from wearing.
I'd also like to share this old gas station joke: Car owner that
just pulled up to the pump at a
full service gas station says to the
gas station attendant: "Fill 'er up... Ethyl!" Gas station
attendant: "I'll fill up your car, but don't call me Ethel."
FYI - Until
the late 1960s, certain Chevrolet small block
muscle car engines had a compression ratio as high as 11.25:1,
and a certain Chevrolet 427 big block muscle car engine had a compression
ratio of 14:1! (That was the good ol' days of hot rodding!) In fact, back
then, Chevrolet made the only naturally aspirated engine out of the top three
American (GM, Ford and MOPAR) car manufacturers that had the highest compression
ratio. |
When to Use a Gravity Feed Fuel Flow System -
Gravity feed is defined as when the fuel is drawn or pulled
downward by gravity; the lowest part of the gas tank is positioned higher
than the carburetor, and there's no fuel pump involved. Anyway, when burning
gas only (not E85 or methanol fuels) and if an
engine is going to run no faster than 4,000± RPM (governed RPM limit;
the factory setting of maximum RPM for virtually all small gas engines, including
all of Kohler engines is 3,600), then a
gravity
feed fuel system with the lowest part of the gas tank positioned higher
than the carburetor (especially on a hillside), stock fuel fittings and neoprene
rubber fuel hose should work fine.
A fuel pump is required ONLY when the lowest part of the gas tank or when
the entire tank is positioned lower than the carburetor, and when used especially
on a hillside. The fuel pump supplies fuel up to the carburetor. Otherwise,
if the lowest part of the gas tank is positioned higher than the carburetor
at all times, then the engine can run on a gravity feed fuel system with
no problems.
Information About the Pulse-Type/Vacuum-Operated
Fuel Pump - [Return To Previous
Paragraph, Section or Website]
All pulse-type/vacuum-operated
fuel pumps operate off of the air pressure/vacuum inside an engine's crankcase.
The moving piston(s) inside the crankcase create a pulsating effect of air
ç back and forth
to activate the pump's diaphragm, which
pumps the fuel to the carburetor. And all pulse-type/vacuum-operated fuel
pumps come with three barbed hose fittings - one that connects to the engine
crankcase (PULSE), one that connects from the gas tank (IN) and another that
connects to the carburetor (OUT). These should be embossed on the pump body.
But if it doesn't, then the fitting coming from the center of the pump connects
to the crankcase port. And as for the other two fittings, one connects to
the gas tank outlet and the other fitting connects to the carburetor inlet.
If the engine in a lawn and garden tractor, small motorized vehicle or
ATV/UTV sputters and/or dies after going over rough terrain,
this could be caused by a defective pulse-type/vacuum-operated fuel pump.
Overtime, the fuel pump bodies become warped and oil in the crankcase is
preventing air from pulsating the diaphragm the way it should. If the engine
has a 12 volt electrical system with a charging system, it'll be better to
install a low pressure 12 volt electric fuel
pump. These rarely give trouble.
To test a plastic body pulse-type/vacuum-operated fuel pump, first check
that the fuel hose between the gas tank and fuel pump is open and unobstructed,
or if it has dry-rot cracks, which can cause a vacuum leak. To test it,
disconnect the fuel hose from the fuel pump and wrap a shop/business towel
or clean rag around an air blower nozzle and then insert the nozzle with
the rag or towel in the gas tank filler neck. Apply light air pressure in
the tank. If fuel comes out of the fuel hose, then it's open. After that,
reconnect the fuel hose to the fuel pump. To test the fuel pump itself, first
check the hose that connects the fuel pump to the engine crankcase to see
if it has a kink in it or if it has dry-rot cracks, which can also cause
a vacuum leak. If it's in good condition, then the final step is to disconnect
the fuel hose from the carburetor and with adequate amount of fuel in the
gas tank, crank the engine and at the same time observe how much fuel is
being pumped out of the pump. If there seems to be adequate amount of fuel
coming from it, hold your finger over the end of the line and while still
cranking the engine, it should build up a small amount of pressure. If none
or very little fuel comes out of the pump, then it's bad and needs replacing.
When a pulse-type/vacuum-operated fuel pump fails to pump fuel, in most cases,
the body of the fuel pump will become warped, causing a vacuum leak either
from within or from the outside, preventing the diaphragm from pulsating.
If the diaphragm is still flexible, chances are, the pump can be repaired
by resurfacing the body halves on a wide, flat
belt- or disc-sander/grinder or on the side of an abrasive
metal cutting wheel on a
electric chop saw (the kind that automotive muffler shops
use) to remove warpage and restore flatness. (Be sure to use eye protection!)
If the body halves is warped, the sander/grinder will make contact where
the screw holes are, but not the area between the screw holes.
If the bottom of the gas tank is lower than the carburetor, then the engine
definitely needs a fuel pump. If the engine didn't originally come with a
fuel pump, and has no provision for a mechanical fuel pump and/or no 12 volt
power output/supply to use a low pressure 12 volt
electric fuel pump, here's how to install
a universal pulse-type/vacuum-operated fuel pump on virtually any small gas
engine:
-
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A vacuum hose fitting can be installed in the valve (rocker
arm) cover of an OHV engine, or for a flathead engine, use a
block-off plate to cover the existing
mechanical fuel pump opening. On an OHV engine, remove the rocker cover,
and drill a 21/32" hole in the desired location, and cut 1/8" NPT threads
in the drilled hole, and then install an 1/8-NPT x 1/4" barbed end [fuel]
hose fitting to serve as the vacuum-pulse port. On a flathead engine,
don't install the fitting in the outer crankcase breather cover. It doesn't
hold crankcase vacuum. The plate behind it with the reed valve does.
-
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A
pulse-type/vacuum-operated fuel pump will work well with the OEM Kohler oval
shape fuel pump block-off cover plate (part # 240282-S) used on certain Kohler
K-series engines with a 21/32" port hole drilled and threads cut with an
1/8" NPT hand tap, and an 1/8" NPT x 1/4" hose fitting installed.
-
Or a hose fitting can be installed directly in the engine block/crankcase.
To do this, locate a place on the crankcase that's easily accessible, drill
a 21/32" hole in the desired location, and cut 1/8" NPT threads in the drilled
hole. Be sure to drill the hole and install the fitting above the oil level
in the crankcase to insure that air pressure within the crankcase will activate
the fuel pump and to prevent a possible oil leak.
IMPORTANT - To prevent metal cuttings from entering
inside the crankcase, block off or plug the crankcase breather vent hole,
and apply 150± P.S.I. compressed air
through
the oil fill opening or oil dipstick
tube with a shop towel or plastic wrapped tightly around the air nozzle to
create air pressure inside the crankcase so the metal cuttings will be blown
outward and not enter inside the crankcase while drilling the hole and cutting
the threads. Be sure to use eye protection, too!
-
Install the [fuel] hose fitting in the threaded hole with
plumber's thread sealing tape on the threads to guarantee
a leak-proof seal to prevent any oil seepage.
-
Connect a 1/4" I.D. neoprene rubber vacuum or fuel hose from the fitting
on the rocker cover or crankcase to the appropriate fitting on the vacuum
fuel pump (this will activate the pump).
-
Connect a 1/4" I.D. fuel hose from the gas tank to the fitting on the pump
marked IN ç.
-
Connect a 1/4" I.D. fuel hose from the carburetor to the fitting on the pump
marked OUT è.
-
Install clamps on all the hoses/fittings to prevent a vacuum, oil and/or
fuel leak, and to insure proper function of the pump.
-
Mount the fuel pump securely and position the hoses away from any exhaust
heat. The pump should now work great!
NOTE: It doesn't matter if a small amount of crankcase oil gets in the
vacuum-pulse hose. This is normal and the fuel pump will still work just
fine being air, along with the oil, will be pulsating back and forth
, which activates the diaphragm in the pump
that is created by the movement of the engine piston(s).
[Return To Previous Paragraph or
Section]
Troubleshooting a Faulty Pulse-Type/Vacuum-Operated and Mechanical Fuel
Pump -
If an engine sits for about one week or longer, if the fuel in the carburetor
evaporates and it's hard to start, or fuel must be squirted into the carburetor
to get the engine started, then this means that the pulse-type/vacuum-operated
fuel pump mechanical fuel pump may be bad. The inlet valve in the pump is
leaking, which is allowing the fuel to drain back into the gas tank with
the engine off. As the pump tries to syphon fuel from the tank to refill
the carburetor, it's unable because the inlet valve is bad. Solution: a new
fuel pump will need to be installed. By the way - the halves of the plastic
and metal body fuel pumps cannot be interchanged. When a vacuum or mechanical
fuel pump quits working, the causes are listed below:
-
Gasket/diaphragm mating surfaces on pump halves warped, causing vacuum leak
and/or external fuel leak. (This is common with mechanical fuel pumps.)
-
Solution: Completely disassemble fuel pump (except for pump lever), resurface
both halves on a wide, flat
belt- or disc-sander/grinder or on the side of an abrasive
metal cutting wheel on a
electric chop saw (the kind that automotive muffler shops
use) to remove warpage and restore flatness. (Be sure to use eye protection!)
Remove any rough edges with a
deburring tool and thoroughly clean all parts afterwards.
-
Poppet valve dislodged from its cavity in pump cover. (This happens
often.)
-
Solution: Disassemble fuel pump, reinstall valve in its recess (in the
correct position) and carefully peen the metal or plastic around it. If the
valve won't stay in place, the only option is to acquire another fuel pump
cover that's in good condition, acquire a used fuel pump that's in good
condition, or acquire a new fuel pump.
|
-
Corrosion damage due to contamination with water. (Inside aluminum fuel
pump cover.)
-
Solution: If it can't be thoroughly cleaned internally, acquire another
fuel pump cover that's in good condition, acquire a used fuel pump that's
in good condition, or acquire a new fuel pump.
-
Deteriorated diaphragm. (This rarely happens, but when it does, there'll
be presence of gas in the crankcase oil.)
-
Solution: Install a new diaphragm, or acquire a good diaphragm from a
faulty fuel pump, acquire a used fuel pump that's in good condition, or acquire
a new fuel pump.
-
Cracked (split) threads in tapered threaded inlet or outlet ports. (This
happens when the (NPT) tapered thread fuel fittings are over-tightened.)
-
Solution: Acquire another fuel pump cover that's in good condition, acquire
a used fuel pump that's in good condition, or acquire a new fuel pump.
|
What Exactly Is Fuel "Vapor Lock"?
Vapor lock only happens with certain older carbureted cars and trucks with
a mechanical fuel pump that's fastened to the engine block. Vapor lock occurs
when the [metal] gas line is too close to the hot exhaust, and when the vehicle
is in slow traffic, the fuel is moving very slow in the line. Due to extreme
heat from the exhaust and on a hot day, and the fan blade not blowing that
much air past the exhaust, sometimes the heat will cause the gas to boil,
forming air bubbles or air pockets, and the fuel vaporizes, and then the
fuel pump can't pump vaporized fuel (air). So as soon as the carburetor runs
out of fuel, the engine stalls. The fuel pump will "lock" with vapors trapped
inside it. When the vehicle cools, incoming gas will force the air out of
the fuel pump and through the carburetor, allowing the fuel to return to
the pump, and then the engine will start and run again. This don't happen
nowadays with automobiles having fuel injection because the entire fuel hose
is pressurized.
But on lawn- or garden-tractors, the fuel hose is located nowhere near the
hot exhaust. What is really happening when the engine stalls, is either the
fuel system is dirty, the ignition coil is bad, or there's
insufficient valve to lifter
clearance.
Using a Mechanical Fuel Pump -
First of all, a fuel pump is
required ONLY when the lowest part of the gas tank is positioned lower than
the carburetor, or when burning E85 or methanol
fuels. It pumps fuel up to the carburetor when gravity will not allow
sufficient fuel flow to the carburetor. Otherwise, if the lowest part of
the gas tank is positioned higher than the carburetor, the engine can
successfully run solely on a gravity feed fuel system.
Mechanical plastic and metal
body fuel pumps are very durable and they work pretty well, for both lawn
and garden tractors, small motorized vehicle and stock competition garden
pulling tractors burning gas only. They will not pump enough fuel with
E85 or methanol fuels. Anyway, the OEM neoprene
rubber diaphragm or gaskets rarely go bad in the mechanical fuel pump. When
they fail to pump any fuel, it's usually due to the fuel pump cover and body
become warped due to pressure from the retaining screws, or one of the poppet
valves get damaged. They can become dislodged from their counterbore, or
rusted or corroded from long term water contamination. If the poppet valves
are in good condition and snug in their counterbores, but if the pump doesn't
pump fuel, then in most cases, the cover and body have become warped, creating
a vacuum leak at the diaphragm/gasket between the cover and body. To fix
this, separate the fuel pump cover from the body, and resurface each on a
wide, flat
belt- or disc-sander/grinder or on the side of an abrasive
metal cutting wheel on a
electric chop saw (the kind that automotive muffler shops
use) to remove warpage and restore flatness. (Be sure to use eye protection!)
After resurfacing, remove any rough edges with a
deburring tool, and thoroughly clean all the parts with
150± P.S.I. compressed air and an
air blow gun nozzle before reassembly. After reassembly
of the pump, it should work good as new. But if this doesn't fix the problem,
or if one of the poppet valves is damaged, then perhaps a new or used
reconditioned pump will need to be acquired.
By the way - most [new design]
aftermarket small engine plastic-body mechanical fuel pumps rarely warp between
the screws that fasten the cover and body together because the material is
much thicker in this area. Only the older OEM Kohler plastic- and metal-body
mechanical fuel pumps warp between the screws because the material is the
same thickness where the screws are.
The only problem when using a gasket to fasten the mechanical fuel pump to
the block is, being the mounting flange is so thin, it will warp over time,
causing an oil leak. (This happens with every pump I've seen.) To fix this,
and to [possibly] prevent an oil leak in the future, completely disassemble
the pump, remove the lever and arm (be careful not to lose the spring) and
use a wide, flat
belt- or disc-sander/grinder or on the side of an abrasive
metal cutting wheel on a
electric chop saw (the kind that automotive muffler shops
use) to remove warpage and restore flatness. (Be sure to use eye protection!)
The trick to reinstalling the spring is, reinstall the arm, lever and support
pin in the pump body first, then install the spring with a small, flat
screwdriver. (The pumps with the manual fuel primer lever is harder to
reassemble.) To keep the flange from warping again, fasten it directly to
the block using only
clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant and use no gasket,
or use a very thin gasket. Finally, install a flat washer (and of course,
a split lock washer) under each mounting screw head to distribute even pressure
on the flange and to prevent the screws from loosening. By the way - I've
always preferred to use
clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant for three reasons:
Gaskets don't always seal the irregularities and imperfections between mating
metals, especially thin metal covers; being it's an adhesive, it bonds parts
together, forming a leak-proof seal; and being it's clear, it makes for a
clean and professional-looking repair job. When applied sparingly, it can't
be easily seen or noticed between the parts.
The purpose of the older and
now obsolete OEM Kohler mechanical fuel pump with the manual hand lever
(thin metal piece that hangs down under the pump body) is for when the engine
runs out of fuel, after refilling the gas tank, it takes less time to manually
prime the pump and refill the carburetor with gas by working the lever by
hand than it would to crank the engine for a long time so the fuel pump can
draw fuel from the tank and deliver it to the carburetor. This was a nice
feature, especially on engines with a rope or recoil starter! It also saves
wear and tear on the electric starter motor from cranking the engine for
a long time, which could eventually burn up the starter or drain the battery.
FYI - Virtually of all of Kohler's
single cylinder cast iron block and opposed twin cylinder engines come with
a lobe on the camshaft to activate the mechanical fuel pump. The fuel pump
installs with the lever positioned upwards. And if there's no provision on
the side of a [single cylinder] block to mount a mechanical fuel pump, a
3/4" center hole and two 1/4" bolt holes can be drilled, and the 1/4" holes
tapped for 1/4-20 UNC threads to mount a mechanical fuel pump. Use a fuel
pump mounting gasket as a templet to drill the holes.
When to Use a Low Pressure 12 Volt Electric Fuel Pump -
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Most low pressure
12 volt electric fuel pumps are compact,
vibration-proof (has solid state dependability), self-priming, easy to install
and connect the wiring. They work with gasoline-based fuels, won't flood
the carburetor, draw very little amperage from the battery, and they cost
less than most OEM low pressure 12 volt electric
fuel pumps. These works great for garden tractors and small motorized
vehicles with a single- or two-cylinder engine.
Another good thing about a low pressure 12 volt
electric fuel pump verses a mechanical pump
(if the mechanical pump doesn't have a primer lever, which must be primed
manually) is if an engine runs out of fuel, the engine will not have to be
cranked for a long time to get the fuel pumped up to the carburetor, which
can be hard on an electric starter motor.
A new electric fuel pump should come with
detailed and illustrated installation instructions. If there's no instructions,
on a tractor or small engine equipment with battery-powered ignition, connect
the RED wire from the pump to the wire
that connects to the ignition coil positive (+) terminal (which is connected
to the battery positive (+) post through the ignition key switch), and connect
the BLACK wire from the pump to the engine sheet metal or chassis
ground (which is connected directly to the battery negative () post).
On a tractor or small engine equipment with magneto or solid state ignition,
but with electric start, use an OFF/ON toggle switch connected to the battery
positive (+) post to power the fuel pump. In most cases, do not use the
[self-grounding magneto] ignition key switch.
Advertisement: (Prices are subject to change without notice.)
Click here to contact A-1 Miller's
Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing,
and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance
and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need
a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in
this website. |
 Mechanical Fuel Pump Opening
Block-Off/Cover Plates with 1/8" NPT Threaded Port Hole. Use with pulse
hose to replace faulty mechanical fuel pump with a pulse-type/vacuum-operated
fuel pump (listed below). Each plate fits virtually all models of Kohler
engines and certain older Tecumseh engines. Can be installed with
clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant instead of a gasket
to prevent oil leakage. Use
plumber's thread sealing tape on threads of fitting (listed
below) to guarantee a leak-proof seal. Each plate listed below replaces
discontinued Kohler part # 277646 and Tecumseh part # 32955.
[Top of Page]
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Rectangular-shape Steel Cover Plate with 1/8" NPT Threaded Hole. When
appearance isn't important. Customer supplies own fitting, or use with choice
of hose/pulse fittings listed below. A-1 Miller's fabricated part.
$10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Oval shape Anodized Steel Cover Plate with 1/8" NPT Threaded Hole. When
appearance matters. Customer supplies own fitting, or use with choice
of hose fittings listed below. A-1 Miller's modified part. $15.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
Straight Fuel/Pulse Hose Fittings.
Use with 1/4" I.D. fuel hose and/or with a pulse-type/vacuum-operated fuel
pump (listed below). Use
plumber's thread sealing tape on threads of fitting to
guarantee a leak-proof seal. Dimensions: 1/8" NPT male threads x 1/4" barbed
hose fitting. Replaces discontinued Kohler part #'s 277483-S, X-495-1, and
Tecumseh part # 28534.
-
Used and in excellent condition. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
(When available or in stock.)
-
New aftermarket hose fitting. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
45º Fuel/Pulse Hose Fitting.
Use with 1/4" I.D. fuel hose and/or with a pulse-type/vacuum-operated fuel
pump (listed below). Use in close quarters to clear obstacles. Use
plumber's thread sealing tape on threads of fitting to
guarantee a leak-proof seal. Dimensions: 1/8" NPT male threads x 1/4" barbed
hose fitting.
-
$5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
 90º Fuel/Pulse Hose Fittings. Use the thread-in fittings
with 1/4" I.D. fuel hose and/or with a pulse-type/vacuum-operated fuel pump
(listed below). Use in close quarters to clear obstacles. Use
plumber's thread sealing tape on threads of fitting to
guarantee a leak-proof seal. Dimensions: 1/8" NPT male threads x 1/4" barbed
hose fitting.
-
New high quality aftermarket 90º steel hose fitting. $3.00 each,
plus shipping & handling.
-
Used and in excellent condition 90º steel hose fitting. OEM Kohler part
# 25 155 02-S. $4.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When
available or in stock.)
-
90º nylon hose fitting kit w/compression ring. Fits new style/nylon
body mechanical fuel pumps. OEM Kohler part # 25 294 11-S. $9.00 each,
plus shipping & handling.
-
90º steel hose fitting. Fits old style/metal body mechanical fuel pumps.
OEM Kohler part # 25 155 02-S. $11.60 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
 Pulse-Type/Vacuum-Operated Fuel Pumps. Operates off internal
engine crankcase pulsating air pressure from movement of piston(s). Very
durable, long lasting and universal usage. Designed for many makes and models
of various small gas engines for general lawn and garden usage or for a
4,000± RPM stock competition pulling engine. Can be used as a replacement
for a faulty high-dollar mechanical OEM low pressure fuel pump. NOTE:
Remove rubber caps from fittings before installing fuel and vacuum hoses.
IMPORTANT: Install inline fuel filter between gas tank and pump to lessen
wear and damage to flapper/reed valves in pump.
Click here to learn how
to convert a small engine for use with this type of fuel pump.
-
Plastic Body Fuel Pump. High quality aftermarket. Replaces Briggs & Stratton
part # 808656, Kohler part #'s B-231390 (discontinued), 24 393 16-S, and
Tecumseh part # 32959. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 24 393 16-S. $56.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Metal Body Fuel Pump. High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part #'s
B-231390 (discontinued), 15 393 01-S, and Tecumseh part # 32959.
$30.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 15 393 01-S. $55.75 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Mechanical Fuel
Pump Opening Block-Off/Cover Plates. Use with a gravity feed fuel system
or replace faulty mechanical fuel pump with a 12 volt
electric fuel
pump. Each plate fits virtually all models of Kohler engines
and certain older Tecumseh engines. Can be installed with
clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant instead of a gasket
to prevent oil leakage.
-
Rectangular-shape Steel Fuel Pump Block-Off/Cover Plate. When appearance
isn't important. A-1 Miller's fabricated part. Replaces Kohler part #
240282-S; and Tecumseh part # 31660. $8.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
Oval shape Anodized Steel Cover Plate. When appearance matters. OEM
Kohler part # 240282-S; replaces Tecumseh part # 31660. $10.60 each,
plus shipping & handling.
|
Mechanical Fuel
Pump Mounting Gaskets and Neoprene Seal. Use either gasket with mechanical
fuel pumps and if the rubber seal is missing for a new style pump. Fits all
models of Kohler and older Tecumseh engines with a camshaft-operated mechanical
fuel pump. Gaskets approximately 1/32" thick.
-
High quality aftermarket gasket. Replaces Kohler part # 25 041 10-S and Tecumseh
part # 32683A. $1.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler gasket, part # 25 041 10-S. $2.10 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
Neoprene Rubber Seal. Comes with new style fuel pump. $2.00 each,
plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
|
 Mechanical Fuel Pumps. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141,
K160/K161,
L160/L161,
L181, K181 and M8. The new style and durable [hard] plastic body
fuel pumps resist warpage and corrosion from water contamination. NOTE:
Use supplied snap ring to compress tabs on pump to install and rotate hose
fittings. IMPORTANT: Install inline fuel filter between gas
tank and pump to lessen wear and damage to poppet valves in pump.
-
New style high quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 41 559 05-S.
$22.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
New style OEM Kohler part # 41 559 05-S. $106.50 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Repair and test YOUR OEM Kohler
mechanical fuel pump. $20.00 labor each, plus return shipping &
handling. No charge if not repairable.
|
 Mechanical Fuel Pumps. Fits Kohler
engine models K241, M10, K301, M12, K330/K331, K321, M14, K341, M16, K361
and K660/K662. The new style and durable [hard] plastic body fuel pumps resist
warpage and corrosion from water contamination. NOTE: Use supplied snap
ring to compress tabs on pump to install and rotate hose fittings. IMPORTANT:
Install inline fuel filter between gas tank and pump
to lessen wear and damage to poppet valves in pump.
-
Reconditioned and tested OEM Kohler old-style plastic body mechanical fuel
pump. OEM Kohler part # 47 559 10-S. $30.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
Reconditioned and tested OEM Kohler old-style metal body mechanical fuel
pump. OEM Kohler part # 47 559 10-S. $50.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
New style high quality aftermarket plastic body mechanical fuel pump. Inlet
and outlet ports are reversible by removing pump cover, rotate 180º,
and reinstall. Replaces Kohler part # 47 559 10-S and 47 559 11-S.
$30.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
New style plastic body mechanical fuel pump, same as below except w/left
side inlet port.
OEM Kohler
part # 47 559 10-S. $163.15 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
New style plastic body mechanical fuel pump, same as above except w/right
side inlet port.
Most commonly
used. OEM Kohler part # 47 559 11-S. $216.80 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Repair and test YOUR OEM
Kohler mechanical fuel pump. $20.00 labor each, plus return shipping
& handling. No charge if not repairable.
|
 Mechanical Fuel Pumps. Fits Kohler
engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19
Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. The new style and durable
[hard] plastic body fuel pumps resist warpage and corrosion from water
contamination. NOTE: Use supplied snap ring to compress tabs on pump to
install and rotate hose fittings. IMPORTANT: Install inline fuel filter between
gas tank and pump to lessen wear and damage to poppet
valves in pump.
-
New style high quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 52 559 03-S.
$22.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
New style OEM Kohler part # 52 559 03-S. $89.35 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Repair and test YOUR OEM
Kohler mechanical fuel pump. $20.00 labor each, plus return shipping
& handling. No charge if not repairable.
|
 Mechanical Fuel Pumps. Fits Kohler
engine models K482, K532 and K582 opposed twin cylinder engines. The new
style and durable [hard] plastic body fuel pumps resist warpage and corrosion
from water contamination. NOTE: Use supplied snap ring to compress tabs
on pump to install and rotate hose fittings. IMPORTANT: Install inline fuel
filter between gas tank and pump to lessen wear and
damage to poppet valves in pump.
-
New style high quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 48 559 05-S.
$44.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
New style OEM Kohler part # 48 559 05-S. $207.20 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Repair and test YOUR OEM
Kohler mechanical fuel pump. $20.00 labor each, plus return shipping
& handling. No charge if not repairable.
|
 12 Volt Electric Fuel Pump
Installation Kits. Compact and small. Use an electric fuel pump when
the gas tank is lower than the carburetor or when
a mechanical fuel is insufficient. Alcohol-resistant and very durable. Upgrade
to one of these electric pumps for more reliable fuel delivery. Instantly
fills the carburetor with fuel as soon as pump is powered up. Ideal when
equipment runs out of gas and no need to crank the engine for a long time
with a pulse-type/vacuum-operated or a mechanical fuel pump to refill the
carburetor to restart the engine. Saves wear and tear of the
starter motor and
reserves battery power. Convert from gravity feed, or replace a faulty or
inefficient pulse-type/vacuum-operated fuel pump or malfunctioning or inefficient
mechanical fuel pump. For most small engines, a fuel regulator is not required
with the low pressure pumps. Each is suitable for small gas engines up to
4 cylinder carbureted engines. Use on general lawn and garden equipment,
go-karts, ATV's, UTV's, small motorized vehicles or competition garden pulling
tractors with a stock engine or open RPM competition pulling engine. Will
work with most small gas engines such as Kohler, Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh,
Wisconsin, etc., and on virtually all models of Cub Cadet, John Deere, Wheel
Horse, Sears Suburban, Massey Ferguson, and just about any lawn & garden
equipment with a 12 volt electrical system. If it's a Kohler AQS "Quiet Line"
engine, the [larger] fuel hose fitting in the carburetor will need to be
changed to a 1/4" fitting. IMPORTANT: Use
plumber's thread sealing tape to guarantee a leak-proof
seal. If the engine has magneto or solid state electronic ignition, and no
charging system, a small 12 volt battery will need to be used to power the
fuel pump. The battery would need to be recharged with a 120 volt portable
battery charger from time to time so the fuel pump will work at peak efficiency.
Each fuel pump draws less than 2 amps. Wire Connections: The
RED wire connects to the IGNITION terminal
on the ignition/starter key switch or to an OFF-ON toggle switch, and the
BLACK wire connects to negative () ground (chassis or frame).
NOTE: Electric fuel pumps listed here come with a one year warranty from
date of purchase. IMPORTANT: Install the inline fuel filter between gas tank
and pump inlet port to prevent any dirt/debris from wearing the pumping
mechanism. If dirt/debris become lodged in pump, it can be cleared-out with
150± P.S.I. compressed air and an
air blow gun nozzle when applied in the reverse direction
of fuel flow. And for long
term storage of equipment, drain and flush out all fuel, leave fuel hoses
disconnected and apply light oil in the pump to prevent oxidation or "sticking"
of the pumping mechanism.
[Return
To Previous Paragraph or Section]
-
Universal Square Body Low Pressure 12 Volt Electric Fuel Pump Installation
Kit. Produces 2.5-4.5 P.S.I. and is non-adjustable. Includes: Fuel pump,
two thread-in straight 1/4" barbed fuel hose fittings, 4 spring-type hose
clamps, 1/4" I.D. x 12" length reinforced fuel hose, and fuel filter w/1/4"
barbed fuel hose fittings. Replaces Kohler part #'s 25 559 01-S, 25 559 02-S,
41 393 45-S. $30.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Universal Square Body Low Pressure 12 Volt Electric Fuel Pump Installation
Kit. Produces 1/2-2 P.S.I. OEM Kohler part # 25 559 01-S. $261.50
each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Go Here for High Quality Aluminum Gas Tanks and
Brackets:
https://www.gopowersports.com/gas-tank-aluminum-cylinder-10/
|
https://www.gopowersports.com/lil-rascal-front-gas-tank-brackets/
[Return To Previous Paragraph or
Section] |
How to Prepare an Electric Fuel Pump for Wintertime or Long Term Storage
-
If small engine equipment is equipped with an electric fuel pump, for winter-time
or long term storage, drain out all fuel, and use 150± P.S.I. compressed
air with an
air blow gun nozzle to clear out any remaining fuel in
the fuel pump and fuel system. Leave the fuel hoses disconnected so the entire
fuel system can "air dry". Then apply WD-40 or light weight oil, such as
3-IN-ONE, power steering fluid or equivalent, in the fuel
pump to prevent oxidation of any aluminum parts and possible rusting of any
steel parts, which could cause the pump to malfunction. Then store the small
engine equipment in a cool, dry environment. Avoid storing the equipment
in a damp and high humility environment.
Click or tap here for
more information of long term storage of an engine.
Advertisement: (Prices are subject to change without notice.)
Click here to contact A-1 Miller's
Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing,
and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance
and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need
a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in
this website. |
Professional Carburetor Rebuilding -
 Rebuild and/or Repair YOUR Carter, Kohler or Walbro Carburetor.
Nothing performs better than the OEM carburetor that originally came on the
engine. This is a basic rebuild service with no "high performance" modifications
performed whatsoever. Work includes: Complete disassembly of carburetor,
thoroughly clean carburetor body and all associated parts in an
ultrasonic cleaning machine, inspect all parts for wear,
resurface both ends of carburetor body on a wide, flat
belt- or disc-sander/grinder to remove warpage and restore
flatness (to prevent a vacuum leak), install new overhaul/rebuild kit, and
if needed, install new bronze throttle shaft bushing and/or new throttle
shaft. $65.00-$135.00± for parts and labor each, plus return
shipping & handling.
-
For certain types of Carter, Kohler, Walbro or various other make of carburetors
not used on Kohler K-series or Magnum engines: Replace severely worn OEM
throttle shaft with a new fabricated/machined steel throttle shaft and reuse
OEM throttle plate and lever. $75.00 for parts and labor.
-
Idle speed and air/fuel mixture bore will be preset on the carburetor just
to get the engine running, but due to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric
pressure and air temperature where the carburetor/engine will be used, final
idle and high speed air/fuel mixture will need to be made by the customer
so the engine will run smooth.
-
FYI: A-1 Miller's also offer professional rebuilds of older vintage and
antique/vintage carburetors virtually of any kind as long as replacement
parts are available. New throttle and choke shafts can be fabricated in our
shop.
-
All carburetors that A-1 Miller's repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed
to be free of defects and come with a limited lifetime workmanship warranty
from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE professional and honest technical
support.
-
NOTE: All high performance carburetors that we modify (bore-out and rework)
are guaranteed to allow the engine to rev up at its full potential. If the
engine will not rev up fully, and a
high-output/performance ignition coil and
a medium capacity (OEM/ordinary) condenser are being used, which can
result in a weak spark, then the coil needs two medium capacity condensers
or one high-capacity/performance condenser to produce a stronger spark.
IMPORTANT: When sending your carburetor to A-1
Miller's, use the USPS, FedEx or UPS with a tracking number. Package
it securely so it won't get damaged and address it correctly so it won't
get lost in shipping and place it in a sealed zip-lock sandwich bag to prevent
the odor of gas from escaping the package and prevent the loss of any loose
parts in shipping. To prevent the odor of gas from outside the package, apply
air freshener on the carburetor to disguise the smell of
gas. Because the USPS, FedEx or UPS will not deliver any packages that smell
like gas. Also, include a note in the package with your name, complete and
correct postal address, phone number (in case I have any questions), a
description of what you want done, how the engine will be used and any other
parts you may need.
FYI - Many of our customers send me their carburetor for rebuilding, but
sometimes I can't find anything wrong it. So I'd call our customer and ask
how their engine acted or ran. After hearing their story, I tell them it
sounds like their engine either needs a professional valve job performed
or it needs a professional tune-up. And lo and behold! Many of them either
adjusted the valve clearances or had a professional valve job performed,
or performed a professional tune-up, and said that their engine ran like
new again. So remember, sometimes a carburetor problem may be the valves
or the ignition system instead. Please contact A-1 Miller's
for FREE professional and honest technical support if you have any concerns
with how poorly your engine runs. |
High Quality
Aftermarket Walbro-Replicated LME Carburetor. Brand new. Fits Tecumseh
engine models HH100 and HH120. The OEM Walbro LME carburetor is no longer
available from Tecumseh. Replaces discontinued Tecumseh part #'s 631304A,
631304B and 632424.
-
$40.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
If you're not sure what model Tecumseh engine you have, go here:
Craftsman
to Tecumseh Model Cross Reference.
NOTE: Before considering replacing the carburetor, the engine may have
insufficient valve-to-lifter clearances or it may need a professional valve
job performed instead. So check and (re)set the valve clearances to factory
specifications. If there's black sooty (carbon) residue inside the carburetor
throttle bore, this means the intake valve definitely has insufficient clearance.
Because sometimes misdiagnosed carburetor problems can be faulty valves. |
Carburetor for Kohler
engine model K90/K91 |
Carburetors for
Kohler engine models K141, K161, K181 and M8 |
Carburetor for Kohler
engine models K241, M10, K231 and M12 |
Carburetor for Kohler
engine models K321 and M14 |
Carburetor for Kohler
engine models K341 and M16 |
Carburetor for Kohler
engine model K361 |
Carburetor for Kohler
engine models KT17, KT Series II, KT19, KT Series II, M18 and M20 |
Carburetor for Kohler
engine models K482, K532 and K582 |
Professionally
Rebuilt Genuine OEM Carter Model N #13 or #16 Carburetor. Very rare
nowadays. These particular carburetors are designed specifically for Kohler
engine model K90 and K91 (which are the same engine), and certain low RPM
K141 engines. It has a tapered/inverted cone-shape float bowl and float,
and the throttle bore measures .810" diameter and the venturi is .542" diameter.
When used on a Kohler engine model K141, K160/K161,
L160/L161, L181, K181 or
M8, due to the smaller throttle bore and restrictive venturi, and velocity
of air that's required, the bigger engine may not produce full power at 3,600
RPM. (It'll be the same as using a small 2-barrel carburetor versus a big
4-barrel carburetor on an automotive engine.) This is a plain, stock carburetor
that's been completely disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and professionally
rebuilt with a new overhaul kit, new throttle shaft (if needed) and other
new parts if required. No performance modifications are made to this carburetor
whatsoever. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be initially
set on the carburetor just to get the engine running, but due to the altitude
level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine
will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments will
need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth. Use
plumber's thread sealing tape on threads of fuel hose fitting
to guarantee a leak-proof seal. OEM Carter part #'s A-220100, A-230246, A-230444,
E-220517, F-220762, G-220517, 220451, 220574, 220745, 220777, 230501. OEM
Kohler part # 46 053 03. One of these numbers should be stamped on your OEM
Carter carburetor, but not all numbers stamped on Carter carburetors are
listed with Kohler. This carburetor is discontinued from Kohler.
L All carburetors that A-1 Miller's repair,
rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with
a limited lifetime workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes
FREE professional and honest technical support. NOTE: Before considering
replacing the carburetor, the engine may have insufficient valve-to-lifter
clearances or it may need a professional valve job performed instead. So
check and (re)set the valve clearances to factory specifications. If there's
black sooty (carbon) residue inside the carburetor throttle bore, this means
the intake valve definitely has insufficient clearance. Because sometimes
misdiagnosed carburetor problems can be faulty valves.
[Return To Previous Paragraph or
Section]
-
$200.00 each with a rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in (certain
valuable parts can be reused off of it on a good carburetor body), plus shipping
& handling. (When available or in stock.) IMPORTANT: When sending
your carburetor to A-1 Miller's, use the USPS, FedEx
or UPS with a tracking number. Package it securely so it won't get damaged
and address it correctly so it won't get lost in shipping and place it in
a sealed zip-lock sandwich bag to prevent the odor of gas from escaping the
package and prevent the loss of any loose parts in shipping. To prevent the
odor of gas from outside the package, apply
air freshener on the carburetor to disguise the smell of
gas. Because the USPS, FedEx or UPS will not deliver any packages that smell
like gas. Also, include a note in the package with your name, complete and
correct postal address, phone number (in case I have any questions), a
description of what you want done, how the engine will be used and any other
parts you may need.
-
$300.00 each outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling.
(When available or in stock.) NOTE: If it's rebuildable or repairable,
please do not discard your Carter or Kohler carburetor or other OEM Kohler
parts. Most discontinued Kohler parts in good, usable/rebuildable condition
are hard to find nowadays, and nothing works better than the original part(s)
the engine was designed for.
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Rebuild YOUR OEM Carter
or Kohler carburetor. Total cost depends on which parts it will need and
amount of labor required so it will function like a new one.
$65.00-$135.00± for parts and labor each, plus return shipping
& handling.
Professionally
Rebuilt Genuine OEM Carter Model N #18 Carburetor. Somewhat rare.
This particular carburetor is designed specifically for Kohler engine model
K141. The throttle bore measures .823" diameter and the venturi is .550"
diameter. When used on a Kohler engine model K90/K91, due to the bigger venturi
and velocity of air that's required, the smaller engine may hesitate to rev
up. And when used on a Kohler engine model K160/K161,
L160/L161, L181, K181 or
M8, due to the smaller and restrictive venturi, and velocity of air that's
required, the bigger engine may not produce full power at 3,600 RPM. (It'll
be the same as using a
restrictor plate, or a small 2-barrel carburetor versus
a big 4-barrel carburetor on an automotive engine.) This is a plain, stock
carburetor that's been completely disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and
professionally rebuilt with a new overhaul kit, new throttle shaft (if needed)
and other new parts if required. No performance modifications are made to
this carburetor whatsoever. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments
will be initially set on the carburetor to get the engine running, but due
to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature
where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture
adjustments will need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth.
Use
plumber's thread sealing tape on threads of fuel hose fitting
to guarantee a leak-proof seal. OEM Carter part #'s A-231966, B-231469, G-220517.
OEM Kohler part #'s 41 053 06, 41 053 13. One of these numbers should be
stamped on your OEM Carter carburetor, but not all numbers stamped on Carter
carburetors are listed with Kohler. This carburetor is discontinued from
Kohler. L All carburetors that A-1 Miller's
repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and
come with a limited lifetime workmanship warranty from date of purchase.
Warranty includes FREE professional and honest technical support. NOTE:
Before considering replacing the carburetor, the engine may have insufficient
valve-to-lifter clearances or it may need a professional valve job performed
instead. So check and (re)set the valve clearances to factory specifications.
If there's black sooty (carbon) residue inside the carburetor throttle bore,
this means the intake valve definitely has insufficient clearance. Because
sometimes misdiagnosed carburetor problems can be faulty valves.
[Return To Previous Paragraph or
Section]
-
$155.00 each with a rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in (certain
valuable parts can be reused off of it on a good carburetor body), plus shipping
& handling. (When available or in stock.) IMPORTANT: When sending
your carburetor to A-1 Miller's, use the USPS, FedEx
or UPS with a tracking number. Package it securely so it won't get damaged
and address it correctly so it won't get lost in shipping and place it in
a sealed zip-lock sandwich bag to prevent the odor of gas from escaping the
package and prevent the loss of any loose parts in shipping. To prevent the
odor of gas from outside the package, apply
air freshener on the carburetor to disguise the smell of
gas. Because the USPS, FedEx or UPS will not deliver any packages that smell
like gas. Also, include a note in the package with your name, complete and
correct postal address, phone number (in case I have any questions), a
description of what you want done, how the engine will be used and any other
parts you may need.
-
$165.00 each outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling.
(When available or in stock.) NOTE: If it's rebuildable or repairable,
please do not discard your Carter or Kohler carburetor or other OEM Kohler
parts. Most discontinued Kohler parts in good, usable/rebuildable condition
are hard to find nowadays, and nothing works better than the original part(s)
the engine was designed for.
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Rebuild YOUR OEM Carter
or Kohler carburetor. Total cost depends on which parts it will need and
amount of labor required so it will function like a new one.
$65.00-$135.00± for parts and labor each, plus return shipping
& handling.
Professionally Rebuilt Genuine
OEM Carter Model N #20 Carburetor. Somewhat rare. This particular carburetor
is designed specifically for Kohler engine models K160/K161. The throttle
bore measures .823" diameter and the venturi is .612" diameter. When used
on a Kohler engine model K90/K91 or K141, due to the bigger venturi and velocity
of air that's required, the smaller engine may hesitate to rev up. And when
used on a Kohler engine models
L160/L161, L181, K181 or
M8, due to the smaller and restrictive venturi, and velocity of air that's
required, the bigger engine may not produce full power at 3,600 RPM. (It'll
be the same as using a
restrictor plate, or a small 2-barrel carburetor versus
a big 4-barrel carburetor on an automotive engine.) This is a plain, stock
carburetor that's been completely disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and
professionally rebuilt with a new overhaul kit, new throttle shaft (if needed)
and other new parts if required. No performance modifications are made to
this carburetor whatsoever. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments
will be initially set on the carburetor to get the engine running, but due
to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature
where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture
adjustments will need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth.
Use
plumber's thread sealing tape on threads of fuel hose fitting
to guarantee a leak-proof seal. OEM Carter part #'s A-230798, B-231231, B-231450,
B-231469, C-231738, E-231480, E-231488, E-231489, F-230350, F-230501, G-220517,
G-230500. OEM Kohler part #'s 41 053 06, 41 053 14. One of these numbers
should be stamped on your OEM Carter carburetor, but not all numbers stamped
on Carter carburetors are listed with Kohler. This carburetor is discontinued
from Kohler. L All carburetors that A-1 Miller's
repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and
come with a limited lifetime workmanship warranty from date of purchase.
Warranty includes FREE professional and honest technical support. NOTE:
Before considering replacing the carburetor, the engine may have insufficient
valve-to-lifter clearances or it may need a professional valve job performed
instead. So check and (re)set the valve clearances to factory specifications.
If there's black sooty (carbon) residue inside the carburetor throttle bore,
this means the intake valve definitely has insufficient clearance. Because
sometimes misdiagnosed carburetor problems can be faulty valves.
[Return To Previous Paragraph or
Section]
-
$155.00 each with a rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in (certain
valuable parts can be reused off of it on a good carburetor body), plus shipping
& handling. (When available or in stock.) IMPORTANT: When sending
your carburetor to A-1 Miller's, use the USPS, FedEx
or UPS with a tracking number. Package it securely so it won't get damaged
and address it correctly so it won't get lost in shipping and place it in
a sealed zip-lock sandwich bag to prevent the odor of gas from escaping the
package and prevent the loss of any loose parts in shipping. To prevent the
odor of gas from outside the package, apply
air freshener on the carburetor to disguise the smell of
gas. Because the USPS, FedEx or UPS will not deliver any packages that smell
like gas. Also, include a note in the package with your name, complete and
correct postal address, phone number (in case I have any questions), a
description of what you want done, how the engine will be used and any other
parts you may need.
-
$165.00 each outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling.
(When available or in stock.) NOTE: If it's rebuildable or repairable,
please do not discard your Carter or Kohler carburetor or other OEM Kohler
parts. Most discontinued Kohler parts in good, usable/rebuildable condition
are hard to find nowadays, and nothing works better than the original part(s)
the engine was designed for.
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Rebuild YOUR OEM Carter
or Kohler carburetor. Total cost depends on which parts it will need and
amount of labor required so it will function like a new one.
$65.00-$135.00± for parts and labor each, plus return shipping
& handling.
Professionally Rebuilt Genuine
OEM Carter Model N #22 Carburetor. This particular carburetor is designed
specifically for Kohler engine models
L160/L161, L181, K181 and
M8. The throttle bore measures .823" diameter and the venturi is .682" diameter.
Due to the unrestrictive venturi and velocity of air that's required, when
used on a L160/L161, L181,
K181 or M8, the bigger engine will produce full power at 3,600 RPM. But due
to the bigger venturi, when used on a K90/K91, K141 or K160/K161, the smaller
engine may hesitate to rev up because it may not create the velocity of air
or air charge required to sufficiently draw/suction fuel through the main
nozzle at 3,600 RPM. This is a plain, stock carburetor that's been completely
disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and professionally rebuilt with a new overhaul
kit, new throttle shaft (if needed) and other new parts if required. No
performance modifications are made to these carburetors whatsoever. The idle
speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be initially set on the carburetor
to get the engine running, but due to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric
pressure and air temperature where the engine will be used, final idle and
high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments will need to be made by the customer
so the engine will run smooth. Use
plumber's thread sealing tape on threads of fuel hose fitting
to guarantee a leak-proof seal. OEM Carter part #'s A-230798, A-231741, A-234631,
B-231739, C-231738, F-230350, F-230501, F-230502, G-220517. OEM Kohler part
#'s 41 053 01, 41 053 04, 41 053 05, 41 053 06, 41 053 18, 41 053 20. One
of these numbers should be stamped on your OEM Carter carburetor, but not
all numbers stamped on Carter carburetors are listed with Kohler. Not all
later Carter Model N carburetors with a .682" venturi have the "22" embossed
in the choke end of the carburetor. Please indicate if the carburetor you
need use 2 or 3 air cleaner mounting holes. This carburetor is discontinued
from Kohler. L All carburetors that A-1 Miller's
repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and
come with a limited lifetime workmanship warranty from date of purchase.
Warranty includes FREE professional and honest technical support. NOTE:
Before considering replacing the carburetor, the engine may have insufficient
valve-to-lifter clearances or it may need a professional valve job performed
instead. So check and (re)set the valve clearances to factory specifications.
If there's black sooty (carbon) residue inside the carburetor throttle bore,
this means the intake valve definitely has insufficient clearance. Because
sometimes misdiagnosed carburetor problems can be faulty valves.
[Return To Previous Paragraph or
Section]
-
High Quality Aftermarket
#22 Carter Model N-Replicated Fully Adjustable Carburetor. The throttle
bore in this particular carburetor measures .811" diameter and the venturi
is .588" diameter. The choke lever is positioned the same as the OEM Carter
Model N carburetors. This is an alternative universal low cost carburetor
that is designed to be used on Kohler engine models
L160/L161, L181, K181 or
M8. Due to the larger venturi size, this carburetor may not work correctly
on the Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141 or K160/K161. Direct replacement;
no modifications to linkages required. When installing the carburetor, reuse
the same linkage and everything else. Transfer the 1/8" NPT fuel hose fitting
(use
plumber's thread sealing tape on threads of fitting to
guarantee a leak-proof seal), install carburetor on engine, adjust the idle
speed and air/fuel mixtures until the engine runs smooth. Irrelevant Carter
or Kohler part number(s). Comes with a limited lifetime warranty from date
of purchase. Warranty includes FREE professional and honest technical support.
$65.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Professionally Rebuilt Genuine OEM Carter Model N #22 Carburetor. $75.00
each with a rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in (certain valuable
parts can be reused off of it on a good carburetor body), plus shipping &
handling. (When available or in stock.) IMPORTANT: When sending
your carburetor to A-1 Miller's, use the USPS, FedEx
or UPS with a tracking number. Package it securely so it won't get damaged
and address it correctly so it won't get lost in shipping and place it in
a sealed zip-lock sandwich bag to prevent the odor of gas from escaping the
package and prevent the loss of any loose parts in shipping. To prevent the
odor of gas from outside the package, apply
air freshener on the carburetor to disguise the smell of
gas. Because the USPS, FedEx or UPS will not deliver any packages that smell
like gas. Also, include a note in the package with your name, complete and
correct postal address, phone number (in case I have any questions), a
description of what you want done, how the engine will be used and any other
parts you may need.
-
Professionally Rebuilt Genuine OEM Carter Model N #22 Carburetor. $95.00
each outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling. (When
available or in stock.) NOTE: If it's rebuildable or repairable, please
do not discard your Carter or Kohler carburetor or other OEM Kohler parts.
Most discontinued Kohler parts in good, usable/rebuildable condition are
hard to find nowadays, and nothing works better than the original part(s)
the engine was designed for.
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Rebuild YOUR OEM Carter
or Kohler carburetor. Total cost depends on which parts it will need and
amount of labor required so it will function like a new one.
$65.00-$135.00± for parts and labor each, plus return shipping
& handling.
NOTE: Before considering replacing the carburetor, the engine may have
insufficient valve-to-lifter clearances or it may need a professional valve
job performed instead. So check and (re)set the valve clearances to factory
specifications. If there's black sooty (carbon) residue inside the carburetor
throttle bore, this means the intake valve definitely has insufficient clearance.
Because sometimes misdiagnosed carburetor problems can be faulty valves.
[Return To Previous Paragraph or
Section] |
 Professionally Rebuilt Genuine OEM Carter
or Kohler #26 Carburetors. The throttle bore measures 26mm/1.07"
diameter and the venturi is .812" diameter. This particular carburetor is
designed specifically for Kohler engine models K241, K301, M10, M12 and
K330/K331. When used on a Kohler engine model K321, M14, K341, M16 or K361,
due to the smaller throttle bore and restrictive venturi, and velocity of
air that's required, the bigger engine may not produce full power at 3,600
RPM. (It'll be the same as using a
restrictor plate, or a small 2-barrel carburetor versus
a big 4-barrel carburetor on an automotive engine.) These are plain, stock
carburetors that's been completely disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt
with a new overhaul kit, new throttle shaft bushing and/or new throttle shaft
(if needed) and other new parts installed if required. No performance
modifications made to these carburetors whatsoever. Includes choke plate
installed. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be initially
set on the carburetor to get the engine running, but due to the altitude
level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine
will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments will
need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth. Kohler carburetor
part #'s 47 053 07, 47 053 08, 47 053 12, 47 053 13, 47 053 14, 47 053 24,
47 053 29, 47 053 40, 47 053 62 or 47 053 80. One of these numbers should
be stamped on mounting flange of your OEM carburetor, but not all numbers
stamped on Carter carburetors are listed with Kohler. And design of throttle
lever, choke lever and number of air cleaner mounting holes may be different
for your particular engine application than shown in photo to the right.
Discontinued from Kohler. L All carburetors
that A-1 Miller's repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to be free
of defects and come with a limited lifetime workmanship warranty from date
of purchase. Warranty includes FREE professional and honest technical support.
NOTE: Before considering replacing the carburetor, the engine may have
insufficient valve-to-lifter clearances or it may need a professional valve
job performed instead. So check and (re)set the valve clearances to factory
specifications. If there's black sooty (carbon) residue inside the carburetor
throttle bore, this means the intake valve definitely has insufficient clearance.
Because sometimes misdiagnosed carburetor problems can be faulty valves.
[Return To Previous Paragraph or
Section]
-
NEW High Quality Aftermarket Kohler-replicated, fully adjustable #26 (1.07"
throttle bore) carburetors.
-
With hole in throttle lever and short choke lever. Designed for Kohler K-series
and Magnum engine models K241, M10, K301, M12 with the
round metal air cleaner/filter
assembly. $75.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
With ball on throttle lever and long choke lever. Designed for Kohler AQS
"Quiet Line" engine models K241 and K301 with the
oblong/egg-shape metal air
cleaner/filter assembly or velocity stack and K&N air filter.
$75.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Professionally Rebuilt Genuine OEM Carter or Kohler #26 Carburetors:
NOTE: If it's rebuildable or repairable, please do not discard
your Carter or Kohler carburetor or other OEM Kohler parts. Most discontinued
Kohler parts in good, usable/rebuildable condition are hard to find nowadays,
and nothing works better than the original part(s) the engine was designed
for.
-
With a rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in (certain valuable parts
can be reused onto a good carburetor body). $65.00 each, plus shipping
& handling. Please indicate if hole in lever or ball on lever, and if
short or long choke lever. (When available or in stock.)
-
Outright with no core trade-in. $85.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
(When available or in stock.)
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Rebuild YOUR OEM Carter
or Kohler carburetor. Total cost depends on which parts it will need and
amount of labor required so it will function like a new one.
$65.00-$135.00± for parts and labor each, plus return shipping
& handling.
Professionally
Rebuilt Genuine OEM Carter #28 (1.17" throttle bore) Carburetor. Very
rare carburetor. The throttle bore measures 28mm/1.17" diameter and the venturi
is .937" diameter. This particular carburetor was designed specifically for
the early Kohler engine model K321 with specification suffix "A", "B" or
"C" (with the smaller 1-1/8" exhaust valve) and for certain early low RPM
K341 engines. When used on a Kohler engine model K241, M10, K301 or M12,
due to the larger throttle bore and bigger venturi, the smaller engine may
hesitate to rev up because it may not create the velocity of air or air charge
required to sufficiently draw/suction fuel through the main nozzle at 3,600
RPM. These are plain, stock carburetors that's been completely disassembled,
thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt with a new overhaul kit, new throttle shaft
bushing and/or new throttle shaft (if needed) and other new parts installed
if required. No performance modifications made to these carburetors whatsoever.
Includes choke plate installed. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments
will be initially set on the carburetor to get the engine running, but due
to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature
where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture
adjustments will need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth.
It may have the part number 236636 stamped on the flange. It has been
discontinued by Carter many years ago. NOTE: Not all numbers stamped
on Carter carburetors are listed with Kohler. And design of throttle lever,
choke lever and number of air cleaner mounting holes may be different for
your particular engine application than shown in photo to the right. All
carburetors that A-1 Miller's repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed
to be free of defects and come with a limited lifetime workmanship warranty
from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE professional and honest technical
support. NOTE: Before considering replacing the carburetor, the engine
may have insufficient valve-to-lifter clearances or it may need a professional
valve job performed instead. So check and (re)set the valve clearances to
factory specifications. If there's black sooty (carbon) residue inside the
carburetor throttle bore, this means the intake valve definitely has insufficient
clearance. Because sometimes misdiagnosed carburetor problems can be faulty
valves. [Return To Previous Paragraph
or Section]
-
NEW High Quality Aftermarket Kohler-replicated, fully adjustable #28
carburetors.
-
With hole in throttle lever and short choke lever. Designed for Kohler K-series
and Magnum engine models K321 or M14 with the
round metal air cleaner/filter
assembly. $75.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
With ball on throttle lever and long choke lever. Designed for Kohler AQS
"Quiet Line" engine models K321 or M14 with the
oblong/egg-shape metal air
cleaner/filter assembly or velocity stack and K&N air filter.
$75.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Professionally Rebuilt Genuine OEM Carter or Kohler #28 Carburetors:
NOTE: If it's rebuildable or repairable, please do not discard
your Carter or Kohler carburetor or other OEM Kohler parts. Most discontinued
Kohler parts in good, usable/rebuildable condition are hard to find nowadays,
and nothing works better than the original part(s) the engine was designed
for.
-
With a rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in (certain valuable parts
can be reused onto a good carburetor body). $75.00 each, plus shipping
& handling. Please indicate if hole in lever or ball on lever, and if
short or long choke lever. (When available or in stock.)
-
Outright with no core trade-in. $95.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
(When available or in stock.)
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Rebuild YOUR OEM Carter
or Kohler carburetor. Total cost depends on which parts it will need and
amount of labor required so it will function like a new one.
$65.00-$135.00± for parts and labor each, plus return shipping
& handling.
Professionally
Rebuilt Genuine OEM Carter or Kohler #30 (1.2" throttle bore) Carburetors.
The throttle bore measures 30mm/1.2" diameter and the venturi is 1.000"
diameter. This particular carburetor is designed specifically for Kohler
engine models K321 (w/1-3/8" exhaust valve), K341, M14 and M16. When used
on a Kohler engine model K241, M10, K301 or M12, due to the larger throttle
bore and bigger venturi, the smaller engine may hesitate to rev up because
it may not create the velocity of air or air charge required to sufficiently
draw/suction fuel through the main nozzle at 3,600 RPM. These are plain,
stock carburetors that's been completely disassembled, thoroughly cleaned
and rebuilt with a new overhaul kit, new throttle shaft bushing and/or new
throttle shaft (if needed) and other new parts installed if required. No
performance modifications made to these carburetors whatsoever. Includes
choke plate installed. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will
be initially set on the carburetor to get the engine running, but due to
the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where
the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments
will need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth. Kohler
carburetor part #'s 47 053 07, 47 053 08, 47 053 12, 47 053 13, 47 053 14,
47 053 24, 47 053 29, 47 053 40, 47 053 62 or 47 053 80. One of these numbers
should be stamped on mounting flange of your OEM carburetor, but not all
numbers stamped on Carter carburetors are listed with Kohler. And design
of throttle lever, choke lever and number of air cleaner mounting holes may
be different for your particular engine application than shown in photo to
the right. Discontinued from Kohler. L All
carburetors that A-1 Miller's repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed
to be free of defects and come with a limited lifetime workmanship warranty
from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE professional and honest technical
support. NOTE: Before considering replacing the carburetor, the engine
may have insufficient valve-to-lifter clearances or it may need a professional
valve job performed instead. So check and (re)set the valve clearances to
factory specifications. If there's black sooty (carbon) residue inside the
carburetor throttle bore, this means the intake valve definitely has insufficient
clearance. Because sometimes misdiagnosed carburetor problems can be faulty
valves. [Return To Previous Paragraph
or Section]
-
Professionally Rebuilt Genuine OEM Carter or Kohler #30 Carburetors:
NOTE: If it's rebuildable or repairable, please do not discard
your Carter or Kohler carburetor or other OEM Kohler parts. Most discontinued
Kohler parts in good, usable/rebuildable condition are hard to find nowadays,
and nothing works better than the original part(s) the engine was designed
for.
-
With a rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in (certain valuable parts
can be reused onto a good carburetor body). $100.00 each, plus shipping
& handling. Please indicate if hole in lever or ball on lever, and if
short or long choke lever. (When available or in stock.)
-
Outright with no core trade-in. $125.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. (When available or in stock.)
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Rebuild YOUR OEM Carter
or Kohler carburetor. Total cost depends on which parts it will need and
amount of labor required so it will function like a new one.
$65.00-$135.00± for parts and labor each, plus return shipping
& handling.
OEM Kohler
#30 (w/1.25" Throttle Bore) Carburetor. Rare carburetor. The throttle
bore measures 32mm/1.25" diameter and the venturi is 1.062" diameter. This
particular carburetor is designed specifically for Kohler engine model K361.
When used on a Kohler engine model K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341
or M16, the smaller engine may hesitate to rev up because it may not create
the velocity of air or air charge required to sufficiently draw/suction fuel
through the main nozzle at 3,600 RPM. Completely disassembled, thoroughly
cleaned and professionally rebuilt with a new overhaul kit, new throttle
shaft bushing and/or new throttle shaft (if needed) and other new parts installed
if required. No performance modifications made whatsoever. The idle speed
and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be initially set on the carburetor
to get the engine running, but due to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric
pressure and air temperature where the engine will be used, final idle and
high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments will need to be made by the customer
so the engine will run smooth. NOTE: Design of throttle lever, choke lever
and number of air cleaner mounting holes may be different for your particular
engine application than shown in photo to the right ->. Discontinued from
Kohler. L Kohler carburetor part #'s 47 053
07, 47 053 08, 47 053 12, 47 053 13, 47 053 14, 47 053 24, 47 053 29, 47
053 40, 47 053 62 or 47 053 80. One of these numbers should be stamped on
mounting flange of your OEM carburetor, but not all numbers stamped on Carter
carburetors are listed with Kohler. All carburetors that A-1 Miller's repair,
rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with
a limited lifetime workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes
FREE professional and honest technical support. NOTE: Before considering
replacing the carburetor, the engine may have insufficient valve-to-lifter
clearances or it may need a professional valve job performed instead. So
check and (re)set the valve clearances to factory specifications. If there's
black sooty (carbon) residue inside the carburetor throttle bore, this means
the intake valve definitely has insufficient clearance. Because sometimes
misdiagnosed carburetor problems can be faulty valves.
[Return To Previous Paragraph or
Section]
-
Professionally Rebuilt Genuine OEM Carter or Kohler #30 Carburetors:
NOTE: If it's rebuildable or repairable, please do not discard
your Carter or Kohler carburetor or other OEM Kohler parts. Most discontinued
Kohler parts in good, usable/rebuildable condition are hard to find nowadays,
and nothing works better than the original part(s) the engine was designed
for.
-
With a rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in (certain valuable parts
can be reused onto a good carburetor body). $100.00 each, plus shipping
& handling. (When available or in stock.)
-
Outright with no core trade-in. $125.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. (When available or in stock.)
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Rebuild YOUR OEM Carter
or Kohler carburetor. Total cost depends on which parts it will need and
amount of labor required so it will function like a new one.
$65.00-$135.00± for parts and labor each, plus return shipping
& handling.
 Professionally Rebuilt Genuine OEM Kohler
#26 fully adjustable carburetors. Fits Kohler engine models KT17 (first design),
KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18,
M20 and MV20 (without anti-backfire/engine shut-off valve). These
are plain, stock carburetors that's been completely disassembled, thoroughly
cleaned and professionally rebuilt with a new overhaul kit and other new
parts installed if required. No performance modifications made to these
carburetors whatsoever. Includes choke plate installed. Comes with a
reversible downward or upward swing choke lever to match the position of
the lever on your original carburetor. Simply remove the retaining screw
and reposition the choke lever according to your application. Need to remove
the choke shaft from the carburetor body. (This is a distinctive A-1
Miller's feature that others do not offer.) When ordering, please specify
the position of the choke lever. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture
adjustments will be initially set on the carburetor just to get the engine
running, but due to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and
air temperature where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed
air/fuel mixture adjustments will need to be made by the customer so the
engine will run smooth. Kohler carburetor part #'s 52 053 09, 52 053 18 or
52 053 28. One of these numbers should be stamped on mounting flange of your
OEM Kohler carburetor. All carburetors that A-1 Miller's repair, rebuild,
modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with a limited
lifetime workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE
professional and honest technical support. NOTE: Before considering replacing
the carburetor, the engine may have insufficient valve-to-lifter clearances
or it may need a professional valve job performed instead. So check and (re)set
the valve clearances to factory specifications. If there's black sooty (carbon)
residue inside the carburetor throttle bore, this means the intake valve
definitely has insufficient clearance. Because sometimes misdiagnosed carburetor
problems can be faulty valves. [Return
To Previous Paragraph or Section]
-
High Quality Aftermarket Kohler-replicated #26 fully adjustable carburetor.
Fits Kohler engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first
design), KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20.
-
$65.00 each, with rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in, plus
shipping & handling.
-
$75.00 each, outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling.
-
Professionally Rebuilt Genuine OEM Kohler #26 fully adjustable carburetors.
Fits Kohler engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first
design), KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20 (without
anti-backfire/engine shut-off valve).
-
$85.00 each, with rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in, plus
shipping & handling. (When available or in stock.)
-
$95.00 each, outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling.
(When available or in stock.)
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Rebuild YOUR OEM Carter
or Kohler carburetor. Total cost depends on which parts it will need and
amount of labor required so it will function like a new one.
$65.00-$135.00± for parts and labor each, plus return shipping
& handling.
Carburetors
for Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582. Cleaned and professionally
rebuilt with a new overhaul kit, new [snug] throttle shaft (if needed) and
other new parts if required. Discontinued Kohler part #'s A-277373, A-277910,
C-277061, C-277329, 48 053 01, 48 053 03, 48 053 05, 48 053 07, 48 053 08,
48 053 09, 48 053 10, 48 053 12, 48 053 13, 48 053 14, 48 053 29. One of
these numbers should be stamped on mounting flange of your OEM carburetor.
NOTE: Please mail us photo(s)
of your OEM Kohler carburetor so we can match it to one that we may have
in stock. We may have to install the correct type of choke lever on ours
to match yours. Because nothing works better than the original type
of carburetor. (When available or in stock.)
[Return To Previous Paragraph or
Section]
-
High Quality Aftermarket Kohler-replicated fully adjustable #26 (1.07"
throttle bore) carburetor. Designed specifically for Kohler engine models
K482 and K532. NOTE: Please mail
us photo(s) of your OEM Kohler carburetor so we can match it to one that
we may have in stock. We may have to install the correct type of choke lever
on ours to match yours. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 48 053
07-S. $65.00 each outright, plus shipping & handling.
-
Professionally Rebuilt OEM Kohler #26 (1.07" throttle bore) carburetor
designed specifically for Kohler engine models K482 and K532.
-
$75.00 each with a rebuildable core trade-in, plus shipping &
handling.
-
$100.00 each outright, plus shipping & handling.
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Rebuild YOUR OEM Carter
or Kohler carburetor. Total cost depends on which parts it will need and
amount of labor required so it will function like a new one.
$65.00-$135.00± for parts and labor each, plus return shipping
& handling.
Professionally Rebuilt OEM Kohler #30 (1.2" throttle bore) carburetor
designed specifically for Kohler engine model K582. Cleaned and
professionally rebuilt with a new overhaul kit, new [snug] throttle shaft
(if needed) and other new parts if required. Discontinued Kohler part #'s
48 053 06, 48 053 11, 48 053 13, 48 053 16, 48 053 18, 48 053 24, 48 053
25, 48 053 27. One of these numbers should be stamped on mounting flange
of your OEM carburetor. NOTE: Please
mail us photo(s) of your OEM
Kohler carburetor so we can match it to one that we may have in stock. We
may have to install the correct type of choke lever on ours to match yours.
Because nothing works better than the original type of carburetor. (When
available or in stock.)
-
$70.00 each with a rebuildable core trade-in, plus shipping &
handling.
-
$100.00 each outright, plus shipping & handling.
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Rebuild YOUR OEM Carter
or Kohler carburetor. Total cost depends on which parts it will need and
amount of labor required so it will function like a new one.
$65.00-$135.00± for parts and labor each, plus return shipping
& handling.
|
A-1 Miller's
Professional Repair Service - Professional Stock-Appearing, "Old School"
Technology, High Performance Carburetor Modifications - Modify YOUR OEM Carter
or Kohler #26 or #30 carburetor for enhanced performance on a competition
garden tractor pulling engine. [Top of Page]
These carburetors are modified
internally for maximum performance to increase airflow into the combustion
chamber. Can be used on Stock, Hot Stock, Missouri Super Stock, or any class
where the rules state that a stock-appearing carburetor must be used. With
these carburetors, your pulling engine will rev higher and produce more power
to maintain maximum horsepower and spin the tires. My customers like how
their engine preforms when running one of these carburetors. Will pass tech
as a stock-appearing carburetor. Solely for competition pulling. Not recommended
for general yard and garden use.
Stock-appearing means Carter or Kohler #26, #28 or #30 carburetor (except
Walbro) is modified internally to improve engine performance. The venturi
is bored-out to .995", 1" or straight-through design (to match the diameter
of throttle bore) or whatever your club's sanctioning rules allow for use
with pump gas, E-85 or methanol fuels. Please
specify if your engine has stock size valves or an oversize intake valve.
The idle speed, idle air/fuel mixture and high speed air/fuel mixture
adjusters/screws will be initially preset on the carburetor just to get the
engine running, but due to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure
and air temperature where the engine will be used, final adjustments will
need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth.
A-1 Miller's may need a copy of your association's/club's sanctioning rules
regarding the legality of the carburetor so when we rework/modify it, it'll
be legal for the class you plan to pull in. All carburetors that A-1 Miller's
repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and
come with a limited lifetime workmanship warranty from date of purchase.
Warranty includes FREE professional and honest technical support. FYI
- After your Carter or Kohler carburetor is modified or reworked for high
performance use, as long as everything else are all in good condition with
the engine, including the
ignition timing,
valve train, etc., the carburetor
should, without a doubt, perform flawlessly.
-
YOUR carburetor, bored-out and reworked for improved performance.
$125.00 labor each, plus return shipping & handling. Extra charge
if any missing, worn beyond reuse or broken parts are required. Please indicate
if your engine has a stock size or oversize intake valve.
-
YOUR carburetor - Before the venturi can be bored-out, the throttle shaft
must be removed. If it needs a bushing installed to remove any free-play,
there is an extra $5.00 charge. Or if it needs a new throttle shaft
and bushing, there is an extra $45.00 charge.
-
YOUR carburetor - Before the venturi can be bored-out, the main jet/nozzle
also must be removed. If it is stuck and must be drilled out and replaced,
there is an extra $65.00 charge. This includes the price of the
replacement main jet/nozzle.
-
Convert carburetor to bottom main fuel
adjuster. (Only for open RPM/wide open throttle operation competition
pulling engines). $17.00 extra.
-
No extra charge to convert your carburetor for use with
E85 or methanol fuels with the high performance
modifications.
-
NEW carburetor, bored-out and reworked for improved and high performance.
$200.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
NOTE: All high performance carburetors that A-1 Miller's modify (bore-out
and rework) are guaranteed to allow the engine to rev up at its full potential.
If the engine will not rev up fully, and a
high-output/performance ignition coil and
a medium capacity (OEM/ordinary) condenser are being used, which can
result in a weak spark, then the coil needs two medium capacity condensers
or one high-capacity/performance condenser to produce a stronger spark.
Fully Adjustable Competition
Pulling #26 and #30 Carburetors Bored-Out and Reworked for High Performance
Use. The carburetors listed below will help your tractor pull strong
on the track! A bored-out venturi and reworked carburetor is when the carburetor
is modified for maximum performance for general yard and garden use, and/or
for competition pulling. These carburetors have been modified to outperform
an OEM stock Carter or Kohler carburetor under heavy competition pulling
load, and when adjusted correctly, may not run lean at high RPM while going
down the track. Stock externally appearing will pass tech with virtually
any pulling association or club. The venturi in these carburetors are bored
to either .995", 1" or 1.2" straight-through throttle bore for open RPM,
setup for gas, E85 or methanol fuels, whatever
your club's sanctioning rules allow or whatever you desire for all-out engine
performance. Please specify if engine has stock size valves or an oversize
intake valve. The idle speed, idle air/fuel mixture and high speed air/fuel
adjusters will be initially set on the carburetor just to get the engine
running, but due to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and
air temperature where the engine will be used, final adjustments will need
to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth. All carburetors
that we repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects
and come with a limited lifetime workmanship warranty from date of purchase.
Warranty includes FREE professional and honest technical support.
NOTE: All carburetors are "built
to order." So when placing an order, please specify if your engine has a
factory stock size or oversize intake valve, if you want it with a .995"
or 1" venturi, or a straight-thru throttle bore (no venturi), if the engine
is going to turn 4,000± RPM or open RPM/wide open throttle operation,
and if you want the choke plate/shaft installed.
-
OEM Kohler #26 carburetor or high quality aftermarket Kohler-replicated
#26 reworked carburetor with venturi bored to .995" (NQS legal), 1" or 1.07"
with top main fuel adjuster when sanctioning pulling rules require this size
venturi. Recommended for up to 4,000 RPM and/or with stock size valves.
$175.00 each outright, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler #30 reworked carburetor with venturi bored to 1.2" with top
main fuel adjuster. Recommended for up to 4,000 RPM and/or with stock size
valves. This size carburetor not available in aftermarket.
NOTE: All high performance carburetors that we modify (bore-out and rework)
are guaranteed to allow the engine to rev up at its full potential. If the
engine will not rev up fully, and if a
high-output/performance ignition coil and
a medium capacity (OEM/ordinary) condenser are being used, which can
result in a weak spark, then the coil needs two medium capacity/OEM condensers
or one high-capacity/performance condenser to produce a stronger spark.
Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises
to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional
and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment
options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or
service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website. |
Advertisement: (Prices are subject to change without
notice.)
Click here to contact A-1 Miller's
Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing,
and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance
and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need
a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in
this website. |
NOTE - We have the capability to fabricate and duplicate
obsolete and hard to find throttle linkages and levers. If interested, please
email me a photo of the part(s)
that's needed (if possible) with the exact dimensions. |
Carburetor-to-Block
Mounting Gaskets. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161,
KV161,
L160/L161,
L181, K181, M8, and various other makes and models of small engines
with Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 and Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetor.
Approximately 1/64" compressed thickness. NOTE: Thoroughly clean off old
gasket material to prevent a vacuum leak.
-
High quality aftermarket. A-1 Miller's part # 14-1084. Replaces Kohler part
# 210223-S and Tecumseh part # 31960A. $1.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 210223-S. $3.05 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Air Cleaner Base
or Intake Elbow Adapter-to-Carburetor Mounting Gasket. Fits most older Tecumseh
carburetors and Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161,
KV161,
L160/L161,
L181, K181, M8, and various other makes and models of small engines
with Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 or Walbro WHL #36, #44 and LME
carburetor. Approximately 1/32" compressed thickness. Use with two mounting
screws.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 220537 and
Tecumseh part # 27272A. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Air
Cleaner Base-to-Carburetor Mounting Gasket. Fits various Kohler engine models
K181 and M8, and various other makes and models of small engines with Walbro
WHL #36, #44 carburetor. Not available in aftermarket.
-
OEM Kohler part # 41 041 04-S. $4.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Air Cleaner
Base or Intake Elbow Adapter-to-Carburetor Mounting Gaskets. Fits Kohler
engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, M8, and various other makes
and models of small engines with Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 and
Walbro WHL 36, #44 carburetor. Can be used with two or three mounting screws,
depending on type of air cleaner. Approximately 1/32" compressed thickness.
Alternative gasket to the left.
-
High quality aftermarket. A-1 Miller's part # 7795. Replaces Kohler part
# 41 041 11-S. $1.10 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 41 041 11-S. $1.65 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Carburetor-to-Block
(Thin) Mounting Gaskets. Fits Kohler engine models K241, M10, K301, M12,
K330/K331, K321, M14, K341, M16, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II,
KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20 K482,
K532 and K582 with Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 or Walbro WHG #52, #60,
#64 carburetor. For general lawn and garden use. Approximately 1/32" compressed
thickness. NOTE: Thoroughly clean off old gasket material to prevent a
vacuum leak.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 271030-S. $1.50 each,
plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 271030-S. $5.65 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Carburetor-to-Block
(Thick) Heat Isolator Mounting Gasket. Fits Kohler engine models K241,
M10, K301, M12, K330/K331, K321, M14, K341 and M16 with Carter or Kohler
#26, #28, #30 or Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetor. Use for heavy yard
and/or garden work, or for competition pulling engines. Has one gasket adhered
to each side of heat resistant
phenolic
resin center. Approximately .230" compressed total thickness. NOTE:
Thoroughly clean off old gasket material to prevent a vacuum leak. FYI:
This particular gasket prevents engine heat from being transferred to the
carburetor, resulting in cooling and better
atomization
of the fuel before entering the combustion chamber, improving engine
performance.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 47 049 01-S. $8.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 47 049 01-S. $18.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Air Cleaner
Base-to-Carburetor Mounting Gaskets. Fits Kohler engine models K241, K301,
K321, K330/K331, K341, and various Magnum engine models M10, M12, M14 and
M16 with Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 or Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetor
with the round air cleaner/filter
assembly. NOTE: This gasket can be used on the KT-series and Magnum
opposed twin cylinder engine carburetors by making a hole at 2:00 position
with a [paper]
hole punch to resemble the gasket below.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 275341-S. $3.00 each,
plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 275341-S. $4.25 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Air Cleaner
Base-to-Carburetor Mounting Gasket. Fits Kohler AQS "Quiet Line" engine models
K241, K301, K321, K341 and K361, and various Magnum engine models M10, M12,
M14 and M16 with Kohler #26, #30 or Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetor with
the round or oblong/egg-shape
air cleaner/filter assembly.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 275341-S. $4.50 each,
plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 45 041 07-S. $4.95 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Air Intake Elbow
Adapter-to-Carburetor Mounting Gasket. Fits Kohler engine models K321, K341,
KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II,
KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20, K482, K532 and K582.
-
OEM Kohler part # 25 041 06-S. $2.30 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Square-shape
Air Cleaner Base-to-Elbow Adapter Mounting Gasket. Fits Kohler engine models
CH25, CH730-740, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design),
KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20, K482, K532 and K582.
Approximately 1/32" compressed thickness. Not available in aftermarket.
-
OEM Kohler part # 277093-S. $5.70 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Intake
Manifold-to-Cylinder Mounting Gasket. Fits Kohler opposed twin cylinder engine
models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series
II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Approximately 1/32" compressed
thickness. NOTE: Thoroughly clean off all old gasket material to prevent
a vacuum leak.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 52 041 09-S. $3.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 52 041 09-S. $5.84 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Intake
Manifold-to-Block Mounting Gasket. Fits Kohler opposed twin cylinder engine
models K482, K532 and K582. Not available in aftermarket. NOTE:
Thoroughly clean off all old gasket material to prevent a vacuum leak.
-
OEM Kohler part # 48 052 02-S. $4.38 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
 Carburetor Overhaul Kits. Fits Carter and Kohler carburetors
used on Kohler K-series and early Magnum single and opposed twin cylinder
engines, and various other makes and models of small engines. Includes: 3/8"
brass fuel inlet seat w/gasket,
Viton-tip
fuel inlet float valve, alcohol-resistant
neoprene
rubber float bowl O-ring seal, alcohol-resistant
neoprene
rubber fuel baffle/splash shield, fiber bottom float bowl gasket and float
hinge pin. NOTE: High quality aftermarket kits are equal to or surpasses
the quality of the OEM Kohler overhaul kit. IMPORTANT: Before reinstalling
a used float bowl on the carburetor, place it on a hard, flat surface, and
flatten the bottom of the bowl from the inside with a small hammer. When
the bowl is installed on the carburetor body with the retaining bolt tightened,
this will "clamp" or squeeze the fuel baffle/splash shield against the O-ring
to prevent splashing fuel from seeping out around the top of the float bowl
when the engine is in operation.
-
Overhaul Kit. Fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20 and #22 Carburetors
for Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161 and K181, including various other
makes and models of small engines with the Carter Model N carburetor. Comes
with 5/16" I.D. sealing gasket (made of fiber material or soft aluminum)
for float bowl retaining bolt. Distinctive A-1 Miller's irrelevant part.
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part #'s 25 757 01-S, 25 757 02-S.
$9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Overhaul Kits. Each fits Carter and Kohler #26, #28, #30 Carburetors for
Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341 and K361. Each come
with 3/8" I.D. sealing gasket (made of fiber material) for float bowl retaining
bolt.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part #'s 25 757 01-S, 25 757 02-S.
$9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Fits Carter and Kohler #26, #28, #30 Carburetors. OEM Kohler part #'s 25
757 01-S, 25 757 02-S. $17.60 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Rebuild YOUR OEM Carter
or Kohler carburetor. Total cost depends on which parts will need to be replaced
and/or any machining required so it will function like a new one.
$65.00-$135.00± for parts and labor each, plus return shipping
& handling.
High Quality 1/4" Drive 10mm
6 Point Thin-Wall Deep Well Socket for removing and installing brass
fuel inlet seat in certain aftermarket (Chinese-made) carburetor overhaul
kits for Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22, or Carter or Kohler #26,
#28, #30, and aftermarket Kohler-replicated carburetors. Can also be used
for 3/8" brass fuel inlet seats. Machined thin in metal lathe by A-1 Miller's
to fit into the confined space of the fuel inlet seat cavity in carburetor
body. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
 Float Bowl-to-Carburetor Body O-Ring Seals. This particular
part prevents splashing fuel inside the float bowl from leaking out caused
by normal or high RPM engine vibration. Required in all carburetors. Each
fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22, and Carter or Kohler #26, #28,
#30 carburetors used on the Kohler K-series and early Magnum single cylinder
4hp-16hp, 18hp OHV single- and opposed twin-cylinder flathead cast iron block
engines. Also fits Tecumseh engines with the Carter or Walbro carburetors
with the large bowl, and Briggs and Stratton 7hp-12hp vertical shaft flathead
engine carburetors. (FYI - The early Briggs & Stratton float carburetors
was designed and made by the
Carter Carburetor Corporation.) Dimensions (±):
2-3/16" I.D. x 2-7/16" O.D. x .040" thickness. Alcohol-resistant neoprene
rubber O-ring included in overhaul/rebuild kits listed above
È. IMPORTANT: Before reinstalling
a used float bowl on the carburetor, place it on a hard, flat surface, and
flatten the bottom of the bowl from the inside with a small hammer. When
the bowl is installed on the carburetor body with the retaining bolt tightened,
this will "clamp" or squeeze the fuel baffle/splash shield against the O-ring
to prevent splashing fuel from seeping out around the top of the float bowl
when the engine is in operation.
-
OEM Briggs & Stratton part # 270511. Made of alcohol-resistant and durable
paper-like gasket material. $1.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
High quality aftermarket. Made of alcohol-resistant
neoprene
rubber. Replaces Kohler part # 200375-S. $2.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 200375-S. Made of alcohol-resistant
neoprene
rubber. $5.12 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
 Alcohol-Resistant
Neoprene
Rubber Fuel Baffle/Splash Shields. This particular part prevents splashing
fuel inside the float bowl from traveling up through the atmospheric vent
passageway and possibly being sucked into the throttle bore, which can
momentarily cause engine misfire due to normal or high RPM engine vibration.
Fastens between bowl O-ring seal and float bowl. Required in all carburetors.
Fits all Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 and Carter or Kohler #26,
#28, #30 carburetors used on the Kohler K-series and early Magnum single
cylinder 4hp-16hp, 18hp OHV single- and opposed twin-cylinder flathead cast
iron block engines. Included in overhaul/rebuild kit listed above
È. IMPORTANT: Before reinstalling
a used float bowl on the carburetor, place it on a hard, flat surface, and
flatten the bottom of the bowl from the inside with a small hammer. When
the bowl is installed on the carburetor body with the retaining bolt tightened,
this will "clamp" or squeeze the fuel baffle/splash shield against the O-ring
to prevent splashing fuel from seeping out around the top of the float bowl
when the engine is in operation.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 25 041 02-S. $3.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 25 041 02-S. $4.92 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Brass Float.
Fits all Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22, and Carter or Kohler #26,
#28, #30 carburetors used on the Kohler K-series, early Magnum single cylinder
K90-K361 single- and opposed twin-cylinder flathead cast iron block engines.
May also fit certain carburetors used on Onan engines. Replaces the very
early obsolete tapered/inverted cone-shape brass float in the Carter Model
N #13 carburetor used on the Kohler K90 and various other makes and models
of small engines. Dimensions (±): 15/16" I.D. x 1-15/16" O.D. x 5/8"
tall. NOTE: The float level/height must be set correctly on ALL brass
floats when installed. They do not come preset. The correct way to set the
float level is remove the carburetor from the engine, remove the float bowl,
and with the carburetor upside-down, use a small flat blade screwdriver to
bend the tab on the float slightly one way or the other to set the float
parallel with the carburetor body. Make sure the float moves up and down
freely, too. If it binds or sticks, carefully use a flat file to narrow the
sides of the hinge for clearance. Be careful not to file into the float
itself!
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 25 757 03-S.
$10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Float Stabilizer
Spring. Fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22, and Carter or Kohler
#26, #28, #30 carburetors. Minimizes float bounce due to normal competition
pulling engine vibration at open RPM/wide open throttle operation, or excessive
small all terrain vehicle "bouncing around" over rough and uneven terrain,
which could cause momentary engine misfire and/or fuel spillage out of the
atmospheric vent opening (air passageway from inside the float bowl area
to outside of carburetor). Not necessary for 4,000± RPM competition
pulling engines or ordinary general lawn and garden equipment.
-
Used and in excellent condition. $10.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. (When available)
-
New. OEM Kohler part # 237917-S. $18.35 each, plus shipping &
handling.
|
Cylindrical Float
Bowl with 5/16" Hole. Designed for all Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20,
#22 carburetors used on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161,
KV161,
L160/L161,
L181, K181, including various other makes and models of small
engines. Available in aluminum only. Replaces very
early obsolete tapered/inverted cone-shape float bowl on the Carter Model
N #13 carburetor used on the Kohler K90 and various other makes and models
of small engines. Dimensions: 2-3/8" O.D. x 1-1/4" height x 5/16" bottom
hole. NOTE: The float bowls listed below can be used in place of this
one. The 5/16" bottom bolt/washer will seal the 3/8" hole.
-
OEM Kohler part # 200418-S. $26.30 each, plus shipping & handling.
Float Bowls with 3/8" Hole.
Fits all Carter and Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors used on Kohler engine
models K241, K301, K330/K331, K321, K341, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17
Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, K482, K532 and K582.
Also fits Briggs and Stratton 7hp-12hp vertical shaft flathead engine
carburetors. NOTE: The Briggs & Stratton steel float bowl has the
exact same dimensions as the Carter or Kohler aluminum float bowl. Either
are interchangeable. (In fact, the early B&S 7-12hp vertical shaft flathead
engine float carburetors was designed and made by the
Carter Carburetor Corporation.) Dimensions of each
float bowl: 2-3/8" O.D. x 1-1/4" height x 3/8" bottom hole.
-
Durable Anodized Steel Float Bowl. Will not dent easily and corrode through
due to water contamination. OEM Briggs and Stratton part # 221995.
$8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Aluminum Float Bowl. OEM Kohler part # 235448-S. $16.60 each, plus
shipping & handling.
|
Carburetor Overhaul
Kits with
Viton-tip
fuel inlet float valve. Fits Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64
carburetors that's used on Kohler Magnum engine models M8, M10, M12, M14,
M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Also fits Walbro WHG-16-1, WHG-17-1,
WHG-18-1, WHG-25-1, WHG-26-1, WHG-27-1, WHG-28-1, WHG-31-1, WHG-35-1, WHG-44-1,
WHG-53-1 and WHG-96-1 carburetors used on larger cast iron block Tecumseh
engines. May also fit Walbro carburetors used on certain Onan engines. All
rubber-like parts made of alcohol-resistant
neoprene.
Includes carburetor mounting gasket. NOTE: On all Walbro WHL and WHG
carburetors, the fuel inlet seat is pressed-in at the factory. If it's replaced
with a new seat, fuel will likely leak around the edge of the seat and overflow
the float bowl, rendering the carburetor body useless. So it'll be best to
just install a new fuel inlet valve and leave the OEM seat intact. Remember
- In the laws of physics, the moving part will likely to wear more than the
stationary part.
-
OEM Walbro part # K1-WHG. Replaces Tecumseh part # 632445. $18.60
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 25 757 11-S. $60.35 each, plus shipping & handling.
Alcohol-Resistant
Viton-tip
fuel inlet float valve. Fits Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64
carburetors that's used on Kohler Magnum engine models M8, M10, M12, M14,
M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Also fits Walbro WHG-16-1, WHG-17-1,
WHG-18-1, WHG-25-1, WHG-26-1, WHG-27-1, WHG-28-1, WHG-31-1, WHG-35-1, WHG-44-1,
WHG-53-1 and WHG-96-1 carburetors used on larger cast iron block Tecumseh
engines. May also fit Walbro carburetors used on certain Onan engines. NOTE:
On all Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors, the fuel inlet
seat is pressed-in at the factory. If it's removed and replaced with a new
one, the carburetor body may be rendered useless, because it will mostly
likely leak fuel. So it'll be best to just install a new fuel inlet valve
and leave the seat alone. Remember - in the laws of physics, the moving part
will wear more than the stationary part. Not available separately from
Kohler. OEM Walbro part # 82-529-7. $7.50 each, plus shipping &
handling.
Float Bowl Rubber O-Ring Seal.
Fits Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors that's used on
Kohler Magnum engine models M8, M10, M12, M14, M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20
and MV20. Also fits Walbro WHG-16-1, WHG-17-1, WHG-18-1, WHG-25-1, WHG-26-1,
WHG-27-1, WHG-28-1, WHG-31-1, WHG-35-1, WHG-44-1, WHG-53-1 and WHG-96-1
carburetors used on larger cast iron block Tecumseh engines. May also fit
Walbro carburetors used on certain Onan engines. Made of alcohol-resistant
neoprene
rubber. Dimensions (±): 2-3/8" I.D. x 2-1/2" O.D. x .065" thickness.
Square cross-section.
-
OEM Walbro part #'s 92-16-8, 92-301-8. $1.30 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
Kohler part # 25 041 04-S. (Same as above
È, made by Walbro.) $5.74 each,
plus shipping & handling.
Plastic Floats. Fits Walbro
WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors used on Kohler Magnum engine
models M8, M10, M12, M14, M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Also fits Walbro
WHG-16-1, WHG-17-1, WHG-18-1, WHG-25-1, WHG-26-1, WHG-27-1, WHG-28-1, WHG-31-1,
WHG-35-1, WHG-44-1, WHG-53-1 and WHG-96-1 carburetors used on larger cast
iron block Tecumseh engines. May also fit Walbro carburetors used on certain
Onan engines.
-
OEM Walbro part # 75-566-1. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Kohler part # 25 757 09-S. (Same as above
È, made by Walbro.) $30.55 each,
plus shipping & handling.
Float bowls. Fits Walbro WHL
#36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors used on Kohler Magnum engine models
K141, K160/K161, K181, M8, K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341, M16, MV16,
M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Also fits Walbro WHG-16-1, WHG-17-1, WHG-18-1, WHG-25-1,
WHG-26-1, WHG-27-1, WHG-28-1, WHG-31-1, WHG-35-1, WHG-44-1, WHG-53-1 and
WHG-96-1 carburetors used on larger cast iron block Tecumseh engines. May
also fit Walbro carburetors used on certain Onan engines. 2-1/2" outside
diameter. Each made of dent-proof, anodized, corrosion-resistant steel.
-
OEM Walbro part # 20-180-1. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Kohler part # 25 104 01-S. (Same as above
È, made by Walbro.) $24.65 each,
plus shipping & handling.
|
5/16" I.D. Float
Bowl Retaining Bolt Sealing Gaskets. Each listed below fits Carter Model
N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors, smaller Briggs & Stratton, Mikuni,
Tecumseh and various other makes and models of small engine carburetors.
Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161 and K181. Not included
with the OEM Carter or Kohler carburetor overhaul/rebuild kit.
-
Fiber Gasket. High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 200372-S;
Briggs & Stratton part #'s 221172, 271716, 691608, 691898, and Tecumseh
part #'s 27110A, 632673, 640042. $1.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Soft Aluminum Gasket. OEM Briggs & Stratton part #'s 222014, 397882,
690618. $1.60 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Fiber Gasket. OEM Kohler part # 200372-S. $2.10 each, plus shipping
& handling.
3/8" I.D. Float Bowl Retaining
Bolt Sealing Gaskets. Each listed below fits Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30
carburetors, Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetors, WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors.
Also fits certain larger Briggs & Stratton and various other makes and
models of small engine carburetors. Kits Kohler engine models K241, K301,
K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first
design), KT19 Series II, KT21, K482, K532 and K582, M10, M12, M14, M16, MV16,
M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Included with aftermarket and OEM Carter or Kohler
carburetor overhaul/rebuild kits. Each washer listed below .
-
Fiber Gasket. High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part #'s 200372-S,
12 041 06-S, 25 041 03-S; Walbro part # 92-300-8; Briggs & Stratton part
# 271716. .25¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Fiber Gasket. OEM Walbro part # 92-300-8. .45¢ each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
Fiber Gasket. OEM Briggs & Stratton part # 271716. .50¢ each,
plus shipping & handling.
-
Fiber Gasket. OEM Kohler part # 200372-S. $2.45 each, plus shipping
& handling.
Float Bowl Retaining Bolts.
Fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors used on Kohler engine
models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161,
KV161,
L160/L161,
L181, K181, including many various makes and models of various
small engines. Each includes fiber sealing washer. Dimensions: 5/16-24 UNF
threads x 3/8" thread length x 1/2" head size.
-
High quality aftermarket. A-1 Miller's part. Replaces discontinued Kohler
part # 41 100 01-S. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
New Old Stock or Used and in Excellent Condition. Discontinued Kohler part
# 41 100 01-S. $7.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When
available or in stock.)
Float Bowl Retaining Bolts.
Fits Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors, and Walbro WHL #36, #44
and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors used on Kohler engine models M8, K241,
M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341, M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Also
fits the carburetor on all Briggs & Stratton opposed twin cylinder flathead
engines. Replaces obsolete Briggs & Stratton part # 397882. Each includes
fiber sealing washer.
-
3/8-24 UNF threads x 3/8" thread length x 1/2" head. OEM Walbro part # 96-340-7.
$3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
3/8-24 UNF threads x 3/8" thread length x 1/2" head. OEM Kohler part # 12
086 05-S. (Same as above È, made by
Walbro.) $2.58 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
3/8-24 UNF threads x 3/8" thread length x 9/16" head. New Old Stock or Used
and in Excellent Condition. Discontinued Kohler part # 47 100 06-S.
$5.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Convert the Carter or Kohler
#26, #28 or #30 Carburetor to a Bottom Main Fuel Adjuster -
[Top of Page]
 The bottom high speed main fuel adjuster assembly has 3/8"
fine threads, and is not an OEM Kohler part and is not a modification by
Kohler. The conversion provides no high performance engine enhancements
whatsoever, but it is an absolute must for an open RPM competition pulling
engine. It's an add-on feature that replaces the OEM float bowl retaining
bolt listed above only to prevent wearing of and enlarging the fuel main
jet hole by the end of the OEM high speed needle air/fuel adjustment screw
due to normal engine vibration at open RPM engine operation. This conversion
have been proven many times to function flawlessly for a 4,000 RPM
stock competition pulling engine and for an open RPM competition pulling
engine! Read below how to convert a Carter or Kohler carburetor for use with
the bottom adjuster.
Actually, virtually the same bottom
fuel adjuster that's mentioned here was first used on Briggs & Stratton's
7-12.5hp vertical shaft flathead engine carburetors, which was designed and
made by the
Carter Carburetor Corporation, and it works excellent!
The B&S bottom adjuster has 5/16" fine threads and will not fit the Carter
or Kohler #26, #28 or #30 carburetors, but will fit the Carter Model N #13,
#16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors when these are converted for use with the
bottom adjuster.
-
Bottom Main Fuel Adjuster with Nylon Spacer Kit. Fits all Carter or Kohler
#26, #28 and #30 carburetors used on Kohler K-series and early Magnum engine
models K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341, M16 and K361. Can also be used
in the carburetor on all Briggs & Stratton opposed twin cylinder flathead
engines to "fine tune" the high speed air/fuel mixture. NOTICE: Being
I have no idea how long the bottom adjusters that I order from our suppliers
been sitting on their shelf, the original rubber O-ring may or may not be
deteriorated, cracked and dry-rotted. The new bottom adjuster can be used
the way it is, but if it leaks fuel, it will need a new rubber O-ring installed.
Make sure the compression nut is snug against the O-ring too, to prevent
a fuel leak and to prevent the adjuster valve from rotating outward on its
own from normal engine vibration. $25.00 per kit, plus shipping
& handling.
-
New high quality alcohol-resistant
neoprene
rubber O-ring seal for bottom main fuel adjustment assembly listed above.
Dimensions: 5/32" I.D. x 9/32" O.D. .25¢ each, plus shipping
& handling.
How to Convert a Carter or Kohler #26, #28 or #30 Carburetor for use with
the Bottom Main Fuel Adjuster - This is a simple and low cost foolproof
conversion that works very well.
-
Use pliers to break off the
tip of the OEM high speed [long needle] main fuel top adjuster at the lower
idle fuel feed hole (orifice). (It's just soft brass.) Doing this turns
the high speed adjuster into just an idle fuel vacuum tube. Preferably
use an adjuster with a damaged tip for this conversion. There's no need to
ruin a good adjuster for this.
-
Grind to a dull point/bevel the end of the stem/tube so fuel can flow around
it smoothly at high RPM without disruption.
-
Use a
carburetor jet cleaner wire set or an
oxy-acetylene welding torch tip cleaner of the correct
size, and then use 150± P.S.I. air pressure to clear out any remaining
dried gas or debris to allow fuel to be drawn through the tube so the engine
will idle.
-
Replace the OEM compression spring [on the top adjuster] with a 1/4" I.D.
x 1/4" length aluminum, nylon or steel spacer, or a stack of small O.D. washers
measuring 1/4" I.D. x 1/4" in height. NOTE: The 1/4" height spacer/washers
positions the very end of the stem/tube approximately midway in the float
bowl and about 3/16" above the main jet hole so fuel can be drawn through
the stem/tube for the engine to idle. If the end of the stem/tube is installed
too low, it may make contact with the bottom adjuster, or if it's installed
too high, the engine may not idle.
-
Reinstall the top adjuster in the carburetor body with the spacer or washers
and tighten it in place, making it fixed and non-adjustable. Making the
top adjuster adjustable with the spring at this point will serve no purpose
whatsoever.
-
Reinstall the float, bowl, etc. in reverse order of removal, and install
the bottom adjuster instead of the OEM float bowl retaining bolt, and tighten
the bottom adjuster with a new sealing washer. IMPORTANT - Do not overtighten
the bottom adjuster! This could strip out the threads in the carburetor body,
which would render it totally useless.
-
Install the carburetor on the engine, linkages, fuel hose, and start the
engine.
-
Adjust the idle air/fuel
mixture screw and the high speed air/fuel mixture bottom adjustment screw
until the engine idles smoothly and revs to full throttle without running
lean or too rich on fuel.
FYI - Absolutely nothing needs to be done to the idle fuel passageway or
the idle air/fuel mixture adjustment screw. Just leave them as-is, or use
150± P.S.I. compressed air with an
air blow gun nozzle to clear out the idle fuel passageway
if necessary. The engine should idle fine after this conversion is performed.
And there's definitely no need to install a small brass tube next to the
float going directly up to the idle air/fuel mixture adjustment screw. Doing
this could cause the brass tube to interfere with the operation of the float
at high RPM. Also, if you're wondering if the presence of the top fuel adjuster
stem/tube in a bored-out "straight through" throttle bore will slow down
the incoming airflow, well, the throttle plate and throttle shaft are about
30% wider than the diameter of the top adjuster stem/tube, even with the
throttle shaft ground/milled narrow or made thin to allow for more airflow
through the carburetor.
[Return To Previous Paragraph or
Section] |
Brass Main
Jets/Nozzles (Emulsion Tubes). Fits all OEM Carter and Kohler #26, #28 and
#30, and aftermarket carburetors (with the 1.07", 1.17", 1.2" and 1.25" throttle
bore) used on Kohler K-series and early Magnum engine models K241, M10, K301,
M12, K321, M14, K341, M16, K361 and all Kohler opposed twin cylinder engines.
Each drilled for gas, not E85 or methanol fuels.
-
Used and in excellent condition. $15.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. (When available or in stock.)
-
New. This part is professionally CNC machined and not available from Kohler.
Irrelevant OEM Kohler part number. $20.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. (When available or in stock.)
NOTE: When rebuilding a plain, stock Carter or Kohler carburetor,
in most cases, there's no need to remove the main jet/nozzle. If it won't
come out, then don't worry about it. All that has to be done to make sure
the bottom hole (jet) and the emulsion/side holes are open and clear of debris.
To check if the emulsion/side holes are open, simply spray WD-40 or carburetor
cleaner (in an aerosol can) through the small hole just under the choke plate
and observe if the spray exits out the main nozzle in the throttle bore and
out the jet in the bottom of the carburetor. But if the screwdriver slot
in the main jet/nozzle is slightly stripped and it was able to be removed,
for easier reinstallation, with the main jet/nozzle gently clamped in a bench
vise, use a hacksaw blade to cut a slightly deeper screwdriver slot in the
main jet/nozzle. And if modifying a carburetor to bore the venturi, the main
jet/nozzle must be removed.
Click here to learn
how to remove the main jet/nozzle. |
Kohler
Anti-Backfire/Engine Shut-Off Solenoid Valve Kit. This anti-backfire
solenoid valve fits in the carburetor and shuts off the engine when the ignition
is turned off. The solenoid is energized the entire time the ignition switch
is turned on to allow incoming air in the float bowl so the engine will run.
When the ignition is turned off, it blocks off the incoming air in the float
bowl to create a vacuum in the float bowl to prevent fuel from entering the
combustion chamber, so the engine eventually shuts down. And with no raw
fuel in the hot muffler, there is no possibility of a backfire. When the
solenoid fails to function, the engine will not start. This particular part
is designed for Kohler engine models K181 with specification numbers 13802,
13803, 13804, 13805, 13806, 13807, 13808, 13809, 13810, 13811, 13812, 13813,
13814, 13815, 13816, 13817, 13818, 13820, 30671, 30715, 30739; M18 with
specification numbers 24610, 24637, 24652; M20 with specification numbers
49547, 49564, 49605; K582 with specification numbers 36246, 36249, 36261,
36266, 36268, 36285, 36310, 36327, 36337, 36350, 36371, 36373, 36374, 36376,
36382, 36392, 24600, 24603. OEM Kohler part # 25 755 05-S. $101.45
each, plus shipping & handling.
NOTE: Being the solenoid (OEM Kohler part # 25 755 06-S) for Kohler engine
models M18 with specification numbers: 24563, 24568, 24574, 24577, 24592,
24594, 24599, 24619, 24630, 24631, 24636, 24646, 24655, 24656, 24659, 24664,
24674, 24696, 49514, 49544, 49545, 49565, 49569, 49570, 49572; M20 with
specification numbers: 49584, 49595, 49599, 49608, 49623, 49624, 49629; MV20
with specification numbers: 57501-57514, 57527, 57528 is no longer available,
to convert these engines without use of the solenoid, remove the failed solenoid
and valve, cut short 3/8" threads in the hole (remove the float bowl first
and use compressed air with an
air blow gun nozzle to clear out the metal cuttings
afterwards), and install a short 3/8" Allen set screw in the hole. Don't
thread the set screw deep into the hole, or it will block off outside atmospheric
air from entering the float bowl. Without a solenoid and with the conversion,
the engine will require a different ignition switch to shut off the spark.
And the engine should be idled down before shutting it off to lessen the
chance of a backfire out the muffler. |
 Compression Pressure Spring for Idle Air/Fuel Mixture Adjustment
Screws (listed below ). Fits all Carter Model
N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors, and Carter and Kohler #26, #28 and
#30 carburetors. OEM Kohler part #'s 200380-S or 25 089 04-S. (Identical
parts with different part numbers.)
-
Used and in excellent condition. (200380-S or 25 089 04-S) $3.50 each,
plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
-
New. (200380-S) $7.10 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
New. (25 089 04-S) $10.45 each, plus shipping & handling.
Idle Air/Fuel Mixture Adjustment
Screw w/Short Stepped End. Fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22
carburetors with following numbers stamped on top of carburetor body: G-220517,
C-231738, B-231739, 41 053 01, 41 053 13, 41 053 18, 41 053 20 used with
Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161,
KV161,
L160/L161,
L181, K181. This same part also fits the Carter and Kohler #28
or #30 carburetors with the 1.17", 1.2" or 1.25" throttle bore with following
numbers stamped on mounting flange: 45 053 08, 45 053 09, 45 053 12, 45 053
20, 45 053 68, 45 053 70, 45 053 76, 45 053 86, 45 053 87, 45 053 88, 45
053 89, 47 053 03, 47 053 09, 47 053 15, 47 053 16, 47 053 17, 47 053 20,
47 053 30, 47 053 41, 47 053 63, 47 053 78 used with Kohler engine models
K321, K341 and K361. If there's no numbers anywhere on the carburetor
body, then it's definitely an aftermarket carburetor. Because Carter, Kohler
and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on the flange of all their carburetors.
Short step tip. Dimensions: .200" tip length x 8-40 NS (special size
threads) x .865" overall length. High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued
Kohler part #'s 275231-S and 200438-S. NOTE: Being this aftermarket idle
mixture screw has slightly smaller diameter threads than the OEM idle mixture
screw, it's recommended to use this with a snug-fitting neoprene rubber O-ring
(listed below) on an OEM Carter or Kohler carburetor. $10.00 each,
plus shipping & handling.
 Neoprene Rubber O-Ring for Aftermarket Idle Air/Fuel Mixture
Adjustment Screw (above) when used on the OEM Carter or Kohler #28 or #30
carburetors. This is an add-on item; Carter and Kohler carburetors did not
originally come with an O-ring on the idle mixture screw. Install this part
to help the engine start quicker (with throttle in idle position), idle smoothly,
and idle down upon deceleration without hesitation or stalling.
.25¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
Idle Air/Fuel Mixture Adjustment
Screw w/Long Stepped End. Fits Carter or Kohler #26 carburetors with 1.07"
throttle bore used with Kohler engine models K241, K301 and K330/K331. Designed
specifically for Kohler carburetors with following numbers stamped on mounting
flange: 47 053 07, 47 053 08, 47 053 12, 47 053 13, 47 053 14, 47 053 15,
47 053 16, 47 053 24, 47 053 29, 47 053 35, 47 053 40, 47 053 62, 47 053
80, 52 053 60. If there's no numbers anywhere on the carburetor body,
then it's definitely an aftermarket carburetor. Because Carter, Kohler and
Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on the flange of all their carburetors.
Long step tip. Dimensions: .260" tip length x 8-40 NS (special size threads)
x .925" overall length. Being this is an OEM part, a rubber O-ring is not
required. Not available in aftermarket. Used and in excellent condition.
Discontinued Kohler part # 235006-S. $15.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. (When available or in stock.)
Idle Air/Fuel Mixture Adjustment
Screw w/Pointed End. Fits Kohler carburetors used on Kohler KT-series engine
models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series
II, KT21, and models K482, K532 and K582. Designed specifically for Kohler
carburetors with following numbers stamped on mounting flange: 48 053 06
(K582), 52 053 09, 52 053 18, 52 053 28. If there's no numbers anywhere
on the carburetor body, then it's definitely an aftermarket carburetor. Because
Carter, Kohler and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on the flange of all
their carburetors. Long tapered tip. Dimensions: .404" tip length. x
8-40 NS (special size threads) x 1.026" overall length. Being this is an
OEM part, a rubber O-ring is not required. Not available in aftermarket.
Used and in excellent condition. Discontinued Kohler part # 277210-S.
$7.45 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in
stock.) |
Compression
Pressure Spring for High Speed Air/Fuel Adjustment Screws (listed below).
Fits all Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors, and Carter and
Kohler #26, #28 and #30 carburetors. OEM Kohler part # 200383-S.
-
Used and in excellent condition. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
(When available.)
-
New. $4.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Speed Air/Fuel Mixture
Needle Adjustment Screws. Fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22
Carburetors. NOTE: Various high speed air/fuel adjusters are designed
for a particular carburetor. The part number of the carburetor to match the
type of adjuster are listed below. Kohler don't give their dealers much
information on this. When compared the type of adjuster to the part numbers
on each carburetor, we found that some are in fact different. The tiny holes
midway on the stem of the high speed adjuster allows a small amount of air
to be mixed with fuel through the idle circuit so the engine won't idle too
rich or too lean on fuel. And with no tiny holes present midway on the stem
allows full flow of fuel through the idle circuit, which when used in a wrong
carburetor, may cause the engine to idle too rich on fuel. So if an engine
idles well (with the present adjuster), then the carburetor has the correct
adjuster. Also, being the high speed adjusters are made of soft brass, if
the pointed tip is slightly bent, it can be easily straightened with pliers
and reused, and should not effect engine performance whatsoever. It's a valve
that regulates the amount of fuel that goes in the engine. The tip does not
need to be centered with the hole in the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube).
Gas will still get around it. And over-tightening the needle in the main
jet hole will crush the tip out of shape, making it difficult to regulate
the fuel. If the tips is damaged from being overtightened, the high speed
adjuster will need to be replaced.
High Speed Air/Fuel Mixture
Needle Adjustment Screws. Fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20 and #22
carburetors that's used on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141,
K160/K161,KV161,
L160/L161,
L181, K181. The two parts listed below
Ê are identical in every way, except
200410-S is listed for Carter carburetors having the following numbers stamped
on top of carburetor body: A-230798, A-231966, B-231231, B-231450, B-231469,
C-231738, E-231480, E-231488, E-231489, F-230350, F-230502, G-220517, G-230500,
231287, 24588, 41 053 06, 41 053 13, 41 053 14. And 200410-S is listed for
Carter carburetors having the following numbers stamped on top of carburetor
body: A-231741, A-234641, C-231738, B-231739, 41 053 01, 41 053 04, 41 053
05, 41 053 06, 41 053 18, 41 053 20. IMPORTANT - Please check numbers on
carburetor before ordering and go here to identify the correct part for any
particular carburetor:
Kohler
Carburetor Reference Manual. But if there's no numbers stamped anywhere
on the carburetor body, then it is definitely an aftermarket carburetor.
Because Carter, Kohler and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on their
carburetors. Lower hole enlarged to help the engine start quicker (with
throttle in idle position), idle smoothly, and idle down upon deceleration
without hesitation or stalling.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Kohler part #'s 200410-S
and 232635-S. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Speed Air/Fuel Mixture
Needle Adjustment Screws. Fits Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 Carburetors.
NOTE: Various high speed air/fuel adjustment screws are designed for
a particular carburetor. The part number of the carburetor to match the type
of adjuster are listed below. Kohler don't give their dealers much information
on this. When compared the type of adjuster to the part numbers on each
carburetor, we found that some are in fact different. The tiny holes midway
stem of the on the high speed adjuster allows a small amount of air to be
mixed with fuel through the idle circuit so the engine won't idle too rich
or too lean on fuel. And with no tiny holes midway allows full flow of fuel
through the idle circuit, which when used in a wrong carburetor, may cause
the engine to idle too rich on fuel. So if an engine idles well (with the
present adjuster), then the carburetor has the correct adjuster. Also, being
the high speed adjusters are made of soft brass, if the pointed tip is slightly
bent, it can be easily straightened with pliers and reused, and should not
effect engine performance whatsoever. It's a valve that regulates the amount
of fuel that goes in the engine. The tip does not need to be centered with
the hole in the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube). Gas will still get around
it. And over-tightening the needle in the main jet hole will crush the tip
out of shape, making it difficult to regulate the fuel. If the tips is damaged
from being overtightened, the high speed adjuster will need to be replaced.
Or the damaged tip can be broken off at the lower hole(s), and the [#26,
#28 or #30] carburetor can be converted for use with a
bottom main fuel adjuster.
High Speed Air/Fuel Mixture
Needle Adjustment Screw. Fits certain Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors
used on Kohler K-series and early Magnum flathead engine models K241, K301,
K330/K331, K321, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design),
KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20 and certain K532 and K582
engines. 3-3/8" overall length. Has four tiny holes midway on the stem (this
is important so the engine will idle correctly) and two holes on lower stem.
Interchangeable with discontinued Kohler high speed air/fuel adjuster part
# 52 103 01-S, which has four tiny holes midway on the stem and one hole
on lower stem. Single lower hole enlarged to help the engine start quicker
(with throttle in idle position), idle smoothly, and idle down upon deceleration
without hesitation or stalling. There's no need to do this on adjusters with
two lower holes. Designed specifically for Kohler carburetors with following
numbers stamped on mounting flange: 47 053 07, 47 053 08, 47 053 12, 47 053
13, 47 053 14, 47 053 24, 47 053 29, 47 053 35, 47 053 40, 47 053 62, 47
053 80, 48 053 06 (K582), 52 053 01, 52 053 02, 52 053 09, 52 053 10, 52
053 11, 52 053 16, 52 053 18 and 52 053 28. IMPORTANT - Please check numbers
on carburetor before ordering and go here to identify the correct part for
any particular carburetor:
Kohler
Carburetor Reference Manual. If there's no numbers anywhere on the
carburetor body, then it's definitely an aftermarket carburetor. Because
Carter, Kohler and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on the flange of all
their carburetors.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 235415-S. $19.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 235415-S. $36.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
High Speed Air/Fuel Mixture
Needle Adjustment Screw. Fits certain Carter or Kohler #28, #30 carburetors
used on Kohler K-series and early Magnum single cylinder engine models K321,
K341 and K361. 3-3/8" overall length. Has two tiny holes midway on the stem
(this is important so the engine will idle correctly) and one hole on lower
stem. Lower hole enlarged to help the engine start quicker (with throttle
in idle position), idle smoothly, and idle down upon deceleration without
hesitation or stalling. There's no need to do this on adjusters with two
lower holes. Designed specifically for Kohler carburetors with following
numbers stamped on mounting flange: 4174S (Carter), 45 053 08, 45 053 12,
45 053 20, 45 053 26, 45 053 68, 45 053 70, 45 053 76, 45 053 77 and 47 053
11. IMPORTANT - Please check numbers on carburetor before ordering and go
here to identify the correct part for any particular carburetor:
Kohler
Carburetor Reference Manual. If there's no numbers anywhere on the
carburetor body, then it's definitely an aftermarket carburetor. Because
Carter, Kohler and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on the flange of all
their carburetors.
-
Used and in excellent condition or New Old Stock (NOS). Replaces discontinued
Kohler part's # 45 103 01-S and 45 103 02-S. $16.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
High Speed Air/Fuel Mixture
Needle Adjustment Screw. Fits certain Carter #30 carburetors used on certain
Kohler engine models K321, and Kohler #26, 1.07" throttle bore carburetors
used on Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582. 3-3/8" overall length.
Each have no tiny holes midway on the stem (this is important so the engine
will idle correctly) and one lower hole on stem. Lower hole enlarged to help
the engine start quicker (with throttle in idle position), idle smoothly,
and idle down upon deceleration without hesitation or stalling. There's no
need to do this on adjusters with two lower holes. Designed specifically
for certain Carter and Kohler carburetors with following numbers stamped
on mounting flange: A236636 (Carter #30), 47 053 03, 47 053 09, 47 053 15,
47 053 16, 47 053 17, 47 053 20, 47 053 30, 47 053 41, 47 053 63 and 47 053
78. IMPORTANT - Please check numbers on carburetor before ordering and go
here to identify the correct part for any particular carburetor:
Kohler
Carburetor Reference Manual. But if there's no numbers stamped anywhere
on the carburetor body, then it is definitely an aftermarket carburetor.
Because Carter, Kohler and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on their
carburetors.
-
Used and in excellent condition. 15º pointed tip; listed for
Kohler engine models K241 w/specification # 46743, K482, K532, K582
w/specification #'s 36224 and 36231. Discontinued Kohler part # 47 103 01-S.
$18.60 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in
stock.)
-
Used and in excellent condition. 30º pointed tip; listed for
Carter #30 carburetor A236636 used on Kohler engine models K321 and K341
installed in Cub Cadet models 147, 149 and 169; also listed for K582 engines
w/specification #'s 36202-36394, except above
È. Discontinued Kohler part #'s 237489-S,
48 103 01-S. $23.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available
or in stock.)
1/32" x 1-3/8" High Speed Steel
Spiral Drill Bit. Use this to enlarge the [single] lower hole (orifice) in
the high speed air/fuel needle adjuster in Carter Model N #13, #16, #18,
#20, #22 carburetors, and Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors to create
a stronger suction of fuel through the tube and idle fuel passageway to help
engine start quicker (with throttle in idle position), idle smoother, and
idle down upon deceleration without stalling. No need to use this on adjuster
with two lower holes. IMPORTANT: Carefully and gently enlarge hole
by hand with drill bit clamped in a
mini micro pin vise hand drill chuck. After enlarging hole,
clear out any metal cuttings/debris from inside adjuster tube with 150±
P.S.I. compressed air and an
air blow gun nozzle. $1.60 each, plus shipping
& handling. |
 Welch Plugs for Various Small Engine Carburetors.
Concave/dish-shape. Each expands .002"-.003" larger in diameter when installed
and flattened out in counterbore hole. No sealant required. By the way
- on the Carter and Kohler #26, #28 and #30 carburetors, the smaller plug
just above the idle fuel adjusting needle does not need to be replaced for
cleaning of the idle fuel passageway, and there is no replacement for this
plug.
-
3/8" Size (.374" Diameter) Aluminum Welch Plug. Fits Carter and Kohler #26,
#28 and #30 carburetors, and Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors, and may
fit other small engine carburetors. OEM Walbro part # 88-180-8. $1.50
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
7/16" Size (.4374" Diameter) Aluminum Welch Plug. Fits Kohler Command single
cylinder engine carburetors, Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh, and may fit
other carburetors. Replaces Tecumseh part # 630748. OEM Walbro part # 88-55-8.
$1.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Carburetor Mounting
Screws/Bolts w/Slotted Head and Flat Washers. Fits Kohler engine models K141,
K160/K161, KV161,
L160/L161,
L181, K181 and M8 with Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22,
or Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetor. NOTE: Use small slotted screwdriver
to start screws in threaded holes. Size: 1/4-20 UNC x 3/4" thread length.
-
Fabricated A-1 Miller's part. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # X-140-1-S.
$2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Carburetor Mounting Screws/Bolts
w/Slotted Head and Flat Washers. Fits Kohler engine models K241, K301, K330/K331,
K321, K341, K361, M10, M12, M14 and M16 with Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30,
or Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetor. NOTE: Use small slotted screwdriver
to start screws in threaded holes. Size: 5/16-18 UNC x 1" thread length.
-
Fabricated A-1 Miller's part. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # X-770-1-S.
$2.75 each, plus shipping & handling.
|

A worn/loose throttle shaft is the #1 cause of most engines wearing out and
burning/consuming [crankcase] oil prematurely, and this is also what could
cause the [high dollar] cylinder head to overheat and crack on a flathead
engine. If a carburetor has a worn throttle shaft, this will create a vacuum
leak through the throttle shaft and carburetor body, and the engine will
idle poorly, if at all at times. With a worn throttle shaft, the engine will
draw in dusty and dirty outside air (through the throttle shaft and carburetor
body), which will cause increased wear to the throttle shaft and possibly
carburetor body, intake valve face/seat and score the cylinder wall, and
engine will eventually burn oil, blow blue/gray smoke out the exhaust, be
hard to start and it will lose power. More than .010" of free-play/looseness
is considered too much for throttle shaft wear. Although the throttle shaft
can be moved and checked by hand, the most accurate way to check for the
amount of wear is with a
dial indicator. Plus, at normal top governed operating
speed ((3,200 RPM for a fixed/non-adjustable high speed main jet, and 3,600
RPM for a fully adjustable high speed main jet), the extra incoming air will
cause the engine to run lean on fuel (lean out the air/fuel mixture), which
will overheat the combustion chamber and cause the cylinder head to warp
and possibly burn-out, resulting in a blown head gasket. Plus, the piston
and rings will also wear prematurely, eventually resulting in severe engine
wear, excessive oil burning, engine smoking and loss of power.
FYI - All Carter or Kohler and Walbro carburetors didn't come with a throttle
shaft bushing installed by the factory. A new bushing (and [oiled] foam rubber
seal; listed below) must be installed when the throttle shaft is worn/loose
in the carburetor body, or if the throttle shaft is severely worn thin, a
new bushing along with a new throttle shaft (and foam rubber seal) must be
installed. The oil on the foam rubber seal traps and blocks any dust and
dirt from entering past the bushing and throttle shaft. If there's a counterbore
(recession in the carburetor body) where the throttle shaft is, a short,
flat bronze bushing can be installed, and if the original throttle shaft
isn't worn much, it can be reused. But if there's no counterbore, the carburetor
body will need to be precision aligned-bored for installation of a bronze
sleeve bushing, and chances are, a new throttle shaft will also need to be
installed. Precise machining of the carburetor body is required for installation
of the sleeve bushing. And aLL Carter and Kohler #26, #28 and #30, and the
older Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors have the counterbore. Only
the newer Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64, and the aftermarket carburetors don't
have the counterbore. If the carburetor has the counterbore, the
throttle shaft
will need to be removed, the dirt and debris will need to be cleaned
out from the counterbore, and then the short, flat bushing can be installed.
The [oiled] foam rubber seal will need to be installed on the throttle shaft
before installing in the carburetor body. But if there's no counterbore,
the upper hole in the carburetor body will need to be bored out in precision
alignment with the lower hole in a milling machine, and then a bronze sleeve
bushing can be installed. Along with regular maintenance, proper repair
of a worn throttle shaft is required to help an engine last a long time.
Furthermore, the lower hole for the throttle shaft in the carburetor body
rarely wears because most of the pressure is on the upper part of the shaft.
If the bottom part of the throttle shaft itself is worn, a new throttle shaft
will need to be installed. To find if the lower hole is worn, remove the
throttle shaft, and insert a rod that measures exactly 1/4" into the hole
and try to wiggle it around. If it doesn't wiggle, then the throttle shaft
is worn. But if it does wiggle, then I don't have a fix to repair the lower
throttle shaft hole. You will need to acquire another carburetor body or
a complete carburetor (that matches yours) in good condition. I have new
throttle shafts in stock and used carburetor bodies in good condition.
[Return To Previous Paragraph or
Section] |
Protective Throttle Shaft Foam Rubber
Seal. Made of
reticulated polyurethane foam. Blocks out dust and dirt
from entering between throttle shaft and carburetor body or bushing (listed
below) to prevent wear to either. Before installing, apply clean motor oil
on seal to trap dust and dirt. Fits certain Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh,
all Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22; Carter and Kohler #26, #28, #30;
Walbro WHL #36, #44, #52, #60, #64 carburetors, and various other makes and
models of carburetors. Dimensions (±): 7/32" I.D. (will stretch over
a 1/4" shaft) x 7/16" O.D. x 5/32" thick.
Learn
how to remove the Carter or Kohler OEM soft brass throttle or choke plate
retaining screws without breaking them off. OEM Walbro part #'s
156-18-8 or OEM Briggs & Stratton part #'s 691321, 691869. $2.00
each, plus shipping & handling. | [Top of Page]
[Return To Previous Paragraph or
Section]
Protective Throttle Shaft
Felt Dust/Dirt Seal. Made of interconnected cloth fibers. Blocks out
dust and dirt from entering between throttle shaft and carburetor body to
prevent wear to throttle shaft and/or hole in carburetor body. Before installing,
apply clean motor oil on seal to trap dust and dirt. Fits certain Briggs
& Stratton, Tecumseh, and all Kohler K482, K532, K582 carburetors. Dimensions
(±): 7/32" I.D. (will stretch over a 1/4" shaft) x 3/8" O.D. x 1/8"
thick. Learn
how to remove the Carter or Kohler OEM soft brass throttle or choke plate
retaining screws without breaking them off. OEM Briggs & Stratton
part #'s 270167, 271853, 692279. $4.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
| [Top of Page]
[Return To Previous Paragraph or
Section]
 Throttle Shaft Short/Flat
Counterbore Bronze Bushing. Fits all Carter and Kohler #26, #28,
#30 and adjustable main jet Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors [with a
counterbore] that's used on Kohler K-series and early Magnum engine models
K241, M10, K301, M12, K330/K331, K321, M14, K341, M16, K361, KT17 (first
design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16,
M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Bushing and throttle shaft will last longer with
the foam seal listed above.
NOTE: All Carter and Kohler #26, #28 and
#30, and early Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors have a 1/8" depth x 7/16"
diameter counterbore to accept this short, flat bushing. If there's a [worn
or dry-rotted] rubber seal in the counterbore, this bushing will replace
it. Apply clean motor oil on throttle shaft before installing for smoother
throttle operation and less wear to shaft and/or bushing. Also, my aftermarket
flat bushings have a slight taper on the inside, but they'll still work just
fine. When I ordered them, I was disappointed when I received them. I ordered
500 of these several years ago, and there was nothing that could be done
about their design. But just install the bushing with the taper down, lubricate
it, and it should last a long time. Dimensions: 1/4" I.D. x 7/16" O.D. x
1/8" height.
Learn how to remove the Carter or Kohler OEM soft brass
throttle or choke plate retaining screws without breaking them
off.
-
High quality aftermarket throttle shaft bushing. Precision-made in the USA
of oil absorbent, long lasting, compressed sintered bronze. Replaces Kohler
part # 25 158 02-S. $4.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler throttle shaft bushing, part # 25 158 02-S. $14.45 each,
plus shipping & handling.
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Install new throttle shaft
bushing and possibility new throttle shaft in your OEM Carter, Kohler or
Walbro carburetor and rebuild/overhaul carburetor to like-new condition.
Price depends on condition of carburetor. Please
contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in this repair service.
Installation Instructions
for Throttle Shaft Bushing Above: On all Carter, Kohler and certain Walbro
carburetors, the throttle shaft is not worn 1/8" below the lever. The bushing
makes contact with this area to give the shaft a second life. All older Kohler
throttle shafts are like this. (Kohler was thinking ahead with this design.)
The original throttle shaft can be reused with this bushing if it isn't severely
worn or damaged. Before removing the throttle
plate retaining screws, and to avoid breaking off the soft OEM brass
throttle (or choke) plate retaining screws, use a
Dremel or equivalent small rotary grinder chucked with
either an 1/8" high speed steel
end mill or a
chainsaw sharpening stone to grind away the flared threaded
end of the screws, then the screws can be easily removed without breaking
off. But if you didn't read this information beforehand, and the screw's)
broke off, they can be
successfully drilled out
with the throttle (or choke) shaft clamped in a machine vise fastened to
the table of a milling machine, use a 3/16"
center drill bit (and possibly a large magnifying glass
for precision to guarantee dead center-drilling of the screw), then use a
drill press with a 5/64" drill bit to finish drilling out the broken off
screw. And then use a 3-48 UNC taper hand tap to clean
and straighten the threads in the shaft. To install the bushing in the
carburetor, clean out the counterbore, and to align the bushing perpendicular
with the counterbore, slide the bushing on a 1/4" or 6mm screw or bolt, and
insert the screw or bolt in the throttle shaft hole, and use small hammer
or bench vise to tap- or press-in the bushing, and then reinstall the shaft.
If the bushing fits somewhat loose in the counterbore, lightly tap the sides
of the counterbore with a hammer to make the counterbore slightly
oblong/egg-shape. And do not reuse the OEM soft brass throttle or choke
plate retaining screws! Because being the threads are already "stretched"
from being previously installed, they could break off while being tightened
or possibly loosen and dislodge later, which can damage the valves or piston.
If the screws loosen or become dislodged, the engine will not idle down.
NOTE: Usually the short, flat bronze bushing will snug up a worn
throttle shaft. With oil for lubrication, the bushing and shaft should last
a long time. However, the newer Walbro and the aftermarket carburetors have
no counterbore for the bushing, and sometimes in these carburetors, especially
the Walbro, the [upper] throttle shaft hole will wear oblong. Sometimes the
throttle shaft will wear, too. When the hole wears oblong, just installing
a new shaft will not fix the problem. To repair a worn, oblong hole, it must
be precision align-bored precisely aligned with the [unworn] lower hole,
and a bronze sleeve bushing would need to be installed along with a new throttle
shaft. On other makes of carburetors, if the original shaft is worn and a
new throttle shaft isn't available, then a new throttle shaft would need
to be machined/fabricated. The throttle lever can be reused and welded to
the new machined/fabricated shaft. And if necessary, a slightly oversized
throttle shaft can be installed instead of the original diameter shaft. I
can do all of these things for $50.00± each for parts and labor
each, plus return shipping & handling.
  Throttle Shaft
Sleeve Bushings. Use each bushing listed below to repair a worn throttle
shaft through-hole in carburetor body for various makes and models of small
engines to prevent a vacuum leak, which can cause poor idling and engine
damage at higher RPMs. Bushing and throttle shaft will last longer with the
foam seal listed above.
INSTALLATION: The throttle shaft through-hole
in carburetor body must be precision align-bored in a vise fastened to a
milling machine table according to the O.D. of bushing to be installed in
exact alignment with the lower or side [blind] hole so the throttle shaft
will operate freely without binding. Apply clean motor oil on throttle shaft
before installing for smoother throttle operation and less wear to shaft
and/or bushing. [Return To Previous
Paragraph or Section]
-
Thin-Wall Brass Sleeve Bushing. Use in Carter Model N or Walbro carburetors
with a slightly worn throttle shaft through-hole used on Kohler engine models
K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8, or Walbro carburetors for Tecumseh engines.
Dimensions: .2188" (7/32") I.D. x .250" (1/4") O.D. x .600" length.
Retrofit part; not available from Kohler or Walbro.
$3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Thicker-Wall Bronze Sleeve Bushing. Use in Carter Model N or Walbro carburetors
with a severely worn throttle shaft through-hole for Kohler engine models
K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8, or Walbro carburetors for Tecumseh engines.
Dimensions: .2188" (7/32") I.D. x .3125" (5/16") O.D. x 1/2" length.
Retrofit part; not available from Kohler or Walbro.
$3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Thin-Wall Brass Sleeve Bushing. Can be used in Kohler or Walbro carburetors
with a slightly worn throttle shaft through-hole used on Kohler engine models
K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341, M16, K361, K482, K532 or K582. Dimensions:
.251" (1/4") I.D. x .281" (9/32") O.D. x 9/16" length.
Retrofit part; not available from Kohler or Walbro.
$3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Thicker-Wall Bronze Sleeve Bushing. Can be used in Carter, Kohler or Walbro
carburetors with a severely worn throttle shaft through-hole used on Kohler
engine models K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341, M16 and K361. Dimensions:
.251" (1/4") I.D. x .3125" (5/16") O.D. x 3/4" length.
Retrofit part; not available from Kohler or Walbro.
$3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Precision align-bore throttle
shaft through-hole and install new sleeve bushing in YOUR carburetor.
$45.00 for labor and bushing + price of new throttle shaft with new
screws/lock washers (if needed), plus return shipping & handling.
Throttle and Choke Plate Replacement Retaining
Screws Listed Below | To avoid breaking
off the OEM Carter or Kohler soft brass throttle or choke plate retaining
screws, use a
Dremel or equivalent small rotary grinder chucked with
either a
chainsaw sharpening stone or an 1/8" high speed steel or
carbide
end mill to grind away the flared end of the threads until
flush with the shaft, then the screws can be easily and safely removed without
breaking off. But if the screw(s) do break off, they can be
successfully drilled out
and the shaft can be rethreaded with the appropriate size tap for installation
of new screws (below). And definitely
do not reuse the OEM soft brass throttle or choke plate retaining screws!
The threads have been stretched under torque and they could break off when
tightened, or possibly loosen and dislodge later, which can bend a valve
or damage the piston and cylinder head. TIP: When
installing a small phillips- or slotted-head screw to keep it from falling
out of the screwdriver tip in a hard to reach place, for ordinary steel screws,
temporarily magnetize the screwdriver by rubbing a magnet several times along
the length of the shank, or for stainless steel screws, apply a dab of automotive
grease in the head of the screw.
[Return To Previous Paragraph or
Section]
3-48 UNC x 3/16" thread length
throttle and choke plate retaining screws w/split lock washers (liquid
threadlocker not required). Fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20 or #22
carburetors installed on Kohler K-series engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161,
KV161,
L160/L161,
L181 and K181, including various other makes and models of small
engine carburetors. Also fits high performance throttle shaft in Carter and
Kohler #26, #28 and #30 carburetors that's been machined thin to increase
airflow for competition pulling. Specifications: Phillips head; .095" outside
thread diameter; grade 18-8 stainless steel; tensile strength: 120,000 P.S.I.
Irrelevant Kohler part number. $1.00 per pair, plus shipping &
handling.
3-48 UNC x 1/4" thread length
throttle and choke plate retaining screws w/split lock washers (liquid
threadlocker not required). Fits Carter and Kohler #26, #28 and #30 carburetors
installed on Kohler K-series engine models K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341,
K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series
II, KT21, K452, K532 and K582, including various other makes and models of
small engine carburetors. Specifications: Phillips head; .095" outside thread
diameter; grade 18-8 stainless steel; tensile strength: 120,000 P.S.I. Replaces
discontinued Kohler (brass screw) part # 234209-S. $1.00 per pair,
plus shipping & handling.
4-40 UNC x 1/4" thread length
throttle and choke plate retaining screws w/split lock washers (liquid
threadlocker not required). Fits Walbro WHL #52, #60 or #64 carburetors installed
on Kohler Magnum engine models M8, M10, M12, M14, M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20
and MV20, including various other makes and models of small engine carburetors,
and aftermarket Kohler-replicated carburetors. Can be used as an oversize
replacement when 3-48 threads strip out. Use 4-40 hand tap (listed below)
when this happens.
-
High quality aftermarket. Specifications: Phillips head; .108" outside thread
diameter; grade 18-8 stainless steel; tensile strength: 120,000 P.S.I.. Replaces
Kohler part # 25 086 27-S. $1.00 per pair, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 25 086 27-S. $3.55 each, plus shipping & handling.
Quality-Made High Speed Steel Taper Hand Taps.
Taper taps allow for the tip to be inserted deeper in the hole for
self-aligning, easier cutting of threads and less chance of breaking off
tap in the hole. Use with appropriate size
T-handle tap wrench.
Click here to learn how to
professionally cut threads.
[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
-
Hand Tap.
3-48 UNC size. Use to repair
damaged OEM threads in Carter or Kohler throttle and choke shafts.
$8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Hand Tap. 4-40 UNC size. Use to repair threads in newer OEM Walbro throttle
and choke shafts, or for cutting oversize threads in Carter or Kohler throttle
and choke shafts when 3-48 threads strip out. $8.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
|
7/32" Diameter
Throttle Shaft w/Integrated Lever and 3-48 UNC screws and lock washers. Fits
Carter Model N #13, #16 or #18 carburetors and small Walbro carburetor used
on Kohler K-series engine models K90/K91, and various other makes and models
of small engines. NOTE: Apply clean motor oil on shaft before installing
for smooth operation and less wear to shaft, bushing and/or carburetor body.
Learn how
to remove the Carter or Kohler OEM soft brass throttle or choke plate retaining
screws without breaking them off.
-
OEM Kohler part # 46 144 04-S. $38.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
7/32" I.D. x 1/4" O.D. brass sleeve bushing to repair worn throttle shaft
hole in carburetor body. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
7/32" Diameter Throttle Shaft
w/Integrated Lever and 3-48 UNC screws and lock washers. Fits Carter Model
N #20 or #22 carburetors used on Kohler K-series engine models K141, K160/K161,
L160/L161, L181 and K181, and various other makes and
models of small engines. Also fits Walbro WHL #36 or #44 carburetors used
on Magnum engine model M8. NOTE: Apply clean motor oil on shaft before
installing for smooth operation and less wear to shaft, bushing and/or carburetor
body.
Learn how
to remove the Carter or Kohler OEM soft brass throttle or choke plate retaining
screws without breaking them off.
-
OEM Kohler part # 41 144 18-S. $23.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
7/32" I.D. x 1/4" O.D. brass sleeve bushing to repair worn throttle shaft
hole in carburetor body. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
7/32" Diameter Anodized Steel
Choke Shaft w/Integrated Lever and 3-48 UNC screws and lock washers. Fits
all Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20 or #22 carburetors used on Kohler K-series
engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161,
L160/L161, L181, K181, and various other makes and
models of small engines. Also fits Walbro WHL #36 or #44 carburetors used
on Magnum engine model M8. NOTE: Apply clean motor oil on shaft before
installing for smooth operation and less wear to shaft and/or carburetor
body. Learn
how to remove the Carter or Kohler OEM soft brass throttle or choke plate
retaining screws without breaking them off.
-
High Quality Aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 41 090 20-S.
$20.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
IMPORTANT: Click here to
learn how to remove the Carter or Kohler OEM soft brass throttle or choke
plate retaining screws without breaking them off.
And click here to learn how to install
the throttle plate correctly.
 1/4" Diameter Anodized Steel Throttle Shaft with 3/16"
hole in lever, 11/16" throttle plate screw hole spacing and small
hole on lever for throttle return or throttle stabilizer spring. Fits OEM
Carter or Kohler #26, #28 and #30, or Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors
used on Kohler engine models K241, K301, K330/K331, K321, K341, K361, M10,
M12, M14 and M16. Includes screws and lock washers for throttle plate. Throttle
plate not included (listed further below; reuse OEM throttle plate. NOTE:
When replacing a worn throttle shaft in the Walbro #52 (1.07") carburetor
with this particular throttle shaft, the 1.07" aftermarket throttle plate
(with 11/16" screw hole spacing; listed below) must also be used. Or when
replacing a worn throttle shaft in the Walbro #60 or #64 (1.2") carburetor
with this particular throttle shaft, the holes in the OEM Walbro throttle
plate will need to be made oblong to match the (11/16") screw hole spacing
in this shaft. High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part #'s 47
144 35-S (discontinued) and 47 144 36-S. $12.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
1/4" Diameter Anodized Steel
Throttle Shaft with 1/4" ball integrated with lever and 11/16"
throttle plate screw hole spacing. Fits OEM Kohler #26, #28 and #30, or Walbro
WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors used on Kohler engine models K241, K301,
K330/K331, K321, K341, K361, M10, M12, M14 and M16. Replaces OEM Kohler AQS
"Quiet Line" #26, #28 and #30 carburetor throttle shafts. Includes screws
and lock washers for throttle plate. Throttle plate not included (listed
further below; reuse OEM throttle plate. NOTE: When replacing a worn throttle
shaft in the Walbro #52 (1.07") carburetor with this particular throttle
shaft, the 1.07" aftermarket throttle plate (with 11/16" screw hole spacing;
listed below) must also be used. Or when replacing a worn throttle shaft
in the Walbro #60 or #64 (1.2") carburetor with this particular throttle
shaft, the holes in the OEM Walbro throttle plate can be made oblong to match
the (11/16") screw hole spacing in this shaft. High quality aftermarket.
Replaces Kohler part #'s 47 144 35-S (discontinued) and 47 144 36-S.
$12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Throttle Shaft Conversion
Kits. Convert OEM Carter #26, #28 or #30 carburetors with a broken or
cracked old-style two-piece cast aluminum throttle shaft clamp/lever and
idle speed screw w/spring to the new style one-piece Kohler-type throttle
shaft with integrated lever and idle speed adjustment screw w/compression
spring in carburetor body. The OEM Carter carburetors were used on the early
Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321 and K330/K331. Reuse the OEM Carter
throttle plate with either kit below.
-
Throttle Shaft Conversion Kit #1. Includes: High quality aftermarket new
style anodized steel throttle shaft with 3/16" hole in lever (no
integrated ball), two throttle plate retaining screws, idle speed screw and
compression spring. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Throttle Shaft Conversion Kit #2. Includes: High quality aftermarket new
style anodized steel throttle shaft with integrated 1/4" ball on lever,
two throttle plate retaining screws, idle speed screw and compression spring.
$15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
How to Perform the Throttle Shaft Conversion:
-
Remove the old-style Carter
throttle shaft. Click here to learn how
to remove the Carter or Kohler OEM soft brass throttle or choke plate retaining
screws without breaking them off.
-
Cut off or grind down the throttle stop pin for the old-style throttle lever
flush with the carburetor body. IMPORTANT: Do attempt to break off pin
as this could also break off part of the cast aluminum carburetor body, which
must be used as a throttle stop for the new style throttle lever in the wide
open position.
-
Use a
dial- or digital-caliper to measure/locate and scribe on
the carburetor body where to drill a 9/64" hole through the carburetor body
between the throttle shaft and high speed air/fuel adjuster in alignment
with the new style throttle lever tang for installation of the idle speed
adjustment screw. See photo to the right ->.
-
Use a 8-32 UNC hand tap to cut new threads through the 9/64" drilled hole.
-
Install the supplied idle speed adjustment screw w/compression spring in
the threaded hole.
-
Install the new style throttle shaft and reinstall the original throttle
plate. IMPORTANT:
Click
here to learn how the throttle plate is reinstalled correctly.
-
NOTE: If the hole for the throttle shaft in the carburetor body is worn and
the new throttle shaft is loose or "wobbly" in the carburetor body, then
a new flat bronze bushing will need to
be installed in the counterbore.
|
IMPORTANT: Click here to
learn how to remove the Carter or Kohler OEM soft brass throttle or choke
plate retaining screws without breaking them off.
And click here to learn how to reinstall
the throttle plate correctly.
Throttle Plate. Fits Carter Model
N #13 and #16 carburetors with a .810" diameter throttle bore that's originally
installed on Kohler K-series engine models K90/K91 and certain low RPM K141.
Hard to find part. Obsolete OEM Carter or Kohler part number.
-
Used and in excellent condition. $20.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. (When available or in stock.)
Throttle Plate. Fits Carter Model
N #18, #20 and #22 carburetors with .823" diameter throttle bore that's
originally installed on Kohler K-series engine models K141, K160/K161,
KV161,
L160/L161, L181, K181 and
Magnum M8. Hard to find part. OEM Kohler part # 25 146 05-S.
-
Used and in excellent condition. $15.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. (When available or in stock.)
-
New. $27.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Throttle Plate. Fits Carter
and Kohler #26, and aftermarket carburetors with 1.07" diameter throttle
bore that's originally installed on Kohler K-series engine models K241, K301,
K330/K331, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19
Series II, KT21, K482 and K532. To be used with OEM Carter, Kohler or aftermarket
throttle shafts with 11/16" screw hole spacing (listed above).
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 236668-S.
$6.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in
stock.)
Throttle Plate. Fits Walbro WHG #52 carburetor with 1.07" diameter throttle
bore that's originally installed on Kohler Magnum engine models M10, M12,
KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II,
KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Fits OEM Walbro throttle shaft with
5/8" screw hole spacing.
-
New. OEM Kohler part # 25 146 02-S. $8.40 each, plus shipping &
handling. (When available or in stock.)
Throttle Plate. Fits early Carter
#28 and aftermarket carburetors with 1.17" diameter throttle bore that's
originally installed on early Kohler K-series engine model K321 with the
1-1/8" exhaust valve and small intake port. Designed to be used with OEM
Carter, Kohler or aftermarket throttle shafts with 11/16" screw hole spacing
(listed above). Anodized steel.
-
High quality aftermarket. Obsolete Carter or Kohler part number. $6.00
each, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in stock.)
Throttle Plate. Fits Carter
and Kohler #30 carburetors with 1.2" diameter throttle bore that's originally
installed on Kohler engine models K321 (later model with the 1-3/8" exhaust
valve and large intake port), K341 and K582. Designed to be used with OEM
Carter, Kohler or aftermarket throttle shafts with 11/16" screw hole spacing
(listed above).
-
Used and in excellent condition. Obsolete Carter or Kohler part number.
$10.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in
stock.)
Throttle Plate. Fits Walbro #60 and #64 carburetors with 1.2" diameter throttle
bore that's originally installed on Kohler Magnum engine models M14 and M16.
Designed to be used with OEM Walbro throttle shaft with 3/4" screw hole spacing.
OEM Kohler part # 47 146 10-S.
-
Used and in excellent condition. $7.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
(When available or in stock.)
-
New. $14.45 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
IMPORTANT:
Click here to
learn how to remove the Carter or Kohler OEM soft brass throttle or choke
plate retaining screws without breaking them off.
Choke
Plate. Fits Carter Model N #13 and #16 carburetors with the .810" throttle
bore that's originally installed on Kohler engine models K90/K91. Hard to
find part.
-
Used and in excellent condition. Obsolete OEM Carter or Kohler part number.
$20.00 each, plus shipping & handing. (When available or in
stock.)
Choke
Plate. Fits Carter Model N #18, #20 and #22 carburetors with the .823"" throttle
bore that's originally installed on Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161,
KV161,
L160/L161, L181, K181 and
M8. Somewhat hard to find part.
-
Used and in excellent condition. Obsolete OEM Carter or Kohler part number.
$20.00 each, plus shipping & handing. (When available or in
stock.)
Choke
Plates. Fits Carter and Kohler #26 carburetors with the 1.07" throttle bore
that's originally installed on Kohler engine models K241, K301, K330/K331,
KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II,
KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20.
-
Used and in excellent condition. Obsolete OEM Carter or Kohler part number.
$10.00 each, plus shipping & handing. (When available or in
stock.)
Choke
Plate. Fits Carter and Kohler #28 carburetors with the 1.17" throttle bore
that's originally installed on early Kohler engine model K321 with the 1-1/8"
exhaust valve and small intake port. Hard to find part.
-
Used and in excellent condition. Obsolete OEM Carter or Kohler part number.
$15.00 each, plus shipping & handing. (When available or in
stock.)
Choke
Plate. Fits Carter and Kohler #30 carburetors with 1.2" and 1.25" throttle
bore that's originally installed on Kohler K-series engine models K321 (later
models with the 1-3/8" exhaust valve and large intake port), K341, K361,
K482, K532 and K582.
-
Used and in excellent condition. Obsolete OEM Carter or Kohler part
number.$10.00 each, plus shipping & handing. (When available
or in stock.)
|
IMPORTANT:
Click here to
learn how to remove the Carter or Kohler OEM soft brass throttle or choke
plate retaining screws without breaking them off.
Choke Shafts w/Integrated Short
Levers. Fits Carter or Kohler #26, #28 or #30 carburetors used on various
Kohler K-series engine models K241, K301, K321, K341 with the
round air cleaner/filter
assembly. Also fits certain Walbro WHL #52, #60 or #64 carburetors used
on various Magnum engine models M10, M12, M14 and M16. NOTE - The Walbro
choke plate retaining screw holes will need to be elongated or made oblong
to line up with the screw holes in the aftermarket choke shaft. And
apply clean motor oil on shaft before installing for smooth operation and
less wear to shaft and/or carburetor body.
-
High Quality Aftermarket. Made of anodized steel. Includes retaining screws
w/lock washers for choke plate. Replaces Kohler part # 47 090 34-S.
$20.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 47 090 34-S. $43.25 each, plus shipping & handling.
Choke Shafts w/Integrated Long
Lever. Fits Kohler #26 or #30 carburetors used on all Kohler AQS "Quiet Line"
engine models K241, K301, K321, K341, K361 with the
oblong/egg-shape air cleaner/filter
assembly. Also fits certain Walbro WHL #52, #60 or #64 carburetors used
on various Magnum engine models M10, M12, M14 and M16. NOTE - The Walbro
choke plate retaining screw holes will need to be elongated or made oblong
to line up with the screw holes in the aftermarket choke shaft. And
apply clean motor oil on shaft before installing for smooth operation and
less wear to shaft and/or carburetor body.
-
High Quality Aftermarket. Made of anodized steel. Includes retaining screws
w/lock washers for choke plate. Replaces Kohler part # 47 090 38-S.
$25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 47 090 38-S. $43.25 each, plus shipping & handling.
Choke Shafts w/Lever. Fits Kohler
engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19
Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Each includes retaining screws
w/lock washers for choke plate. NOTE - The Walbro choke plate retaining
screw holes will need to be elongated or made oblong to line up with the
screw holes in the aftermarket choke shaft. And apply clean motor
oil on shaft before installing for smooth operation and less wear to shaft
and/or carburetor body.
-
Choke Shaft w/Integrated Downward Swing Lever. OEM Kohler part # 52 090 12-S.
$24.80 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Choke Shaft w/Integrated Upward Swing Lever. OEM Kohler part # 52 090 13-S.
$24.80 each, plus shipping & handling.
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair
Service - Reverse the
lever on YOUR choke shaft for downward or upward swing to match the position
of the choke lever on your original carburetor or choke cable on your garden
tractor. (This is a distinctive A-1 Miller's service that others do not
offer.)
$15.00
labor each, plus return shipping & handling.
Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises
to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional
and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment
options. |
NOTE: The choke shaft detent ball and spring are required
only for hand-operation of the choke plate to keep it in the open position
on stand-alone engines without a remote cable control, such as competition
garden pulling tractor, garden tiller, generator/welder, air compressor,
water pump, etc. Replace if lost so the choke will stay open while the engine
is running. But if the choke lever/plate is operated remotely by a cable,
such as on a lawn & garden tractor, then these parts aren't needed and
will serve no purpose whatsoever.
1/8" Diameter Choke Shaft Friction
(Detent) Ball. Fits Carter or Kohler #13, #16, #18, #20, #22, #26, #28, #30
and Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetors. Also fits shifter in Peerless transaxle
model 2300. Reinstall lost or misplaced ball or spring so shifter will remain
engaged.
-
OEM Walbro part # 89-13-8. .35¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Kohler part # 25 194 02-S. (Same as above
È, made by Walbro.) $1.82 each,
plus shipping & handling.
1/8" Diameter x 5/16" Length
Choke Shaft Friction (Detent) Compression Spring. Fits Walbro WHL #36, #44
carburetors.
-
OEM Walbro part # 98-162-7. .60¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Kohler part # 25 089 06-S. (Same as above
È, made by Walbro.) $1.82 each,
plus shipping & handling.
1/8" Diameter x 1/2" Length
Choke Shaft Friction (Detent) Compression Spring. Fits Carter and Kohler
#26, #28 and #30 carburetors. Also fits shifter in Peerless transaxle model
2300. Reinstall lost or misplaced ball or spring so shifter will remain engaged.
-
Used and in excellent condition. Discontinued from Kohler many years ago.
No part number available. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
(When available or in stock.)
5/32" Diameter Choke Shaft Friction
(Detent) Ball. Fits Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors.
-
OEM Walbro part # 89-29-8. .35¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Kohler part # 25 194 01-S. (Same as above
È, made by Walbro.) $8.02 each,
plus shipping & handling.
5/32" Diameter x 1/2" Length
Choke Shaft Friction (Detent) Compression Spring. Fits Walbro WHG #52, #60,
#64 carburetors.
-
OEM Walbro part # 98-198-7. .60¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Kohler part # 25 089 03-S. (Same as above
È, made by Walbro.) $8.02 each,
plus shipping & handling.
|
  Small
Engine Remote Fuel Primer Bulb System Kits. A proven, ingenious
and innovative concept for use on various small engine equipment, lawn and
garden tractors, small motorized vehicles or competition pulling tractors.
Safe to use and works flawlessly! Can be used on most general lawn and garden
tractors, competition garden pulling tractors, go-karts, small motorized
vehicles, or virtually any small engine lawn and garden equipment or snow
removal equipment with a choke plate in the carburetor. Primer bulb can be
installed on pedestal, dashboard, instrument panel, engine control panel,
flywheel shroud, etc. Requires 1/4" mounting hole for primer bulb assembly.
Works with Carter or Kohler (OEM and aftermarket), Briggs & Stratton,
Tecumseh, Mikuni, Zenith, or virtually any carburetor with a float. Works
with pump gas, race gas, E85 or methanol fuels.
The choice of professional garden tractor pullers everywhere! With the fuel
bowl atmospheric vent opening plugged (air passageway from inside the float
bowl to outside of carburetor), then with one or two pushes of the primer
bulb with your finger, air pressure created within the float bowl forces
fuel up through the main jet and out the nozzle, creating a slight flooding
condition inside the carburetor throttle bore, allowing a cold engine to
start quick. With this setup installed, the choke plate and shaft is not
needed and can be removed. No more binding of a cable-operated choke and/or
bent choke plate, or messy and unsafe "hand choking" of the carburetor. Being
the atmospheric vent opening will be plugged, the
fuel baffle splash shield
in the Carter or Kohler carburetor is not needed with this setup and will
serve no purpose whatsoever. Kit includes: New primer bulb assembly with
integrated 1/8" barbed hose fitting and serrated mounting nut, 1/8" I.D.
x 3/16" O.D. x 2' length clear vinyl hose, loop-type clamp and 1/8" diameter
x 1" length brass tube. Click
or tap here for installation instructions. NOTE: If an engine is hard
to start, even with the choke plate fully closed and tuned correctly, then
it may need the valve clearances reset and/or professional valve job performed.
The reason some older engines is hard to start is because the valve faces,
especially the intake valve, wears slightly away against the valve seat,
and this will cause the clearance between the valve stem and lifter to be
lessened, which will prevent the valve(s) from fully closing to trap adequate
compression in the combustion chamber [so the engine can start easier]. This
remote fuel primer system will not help an engine start easier if it needs
a valve job. [Return To Previous Paragraph
or Section]
-
Fuel Primer Bulb Only. Includes serrated mounting nut. $7.00 each,
plus shipping.
-
High Quality Complete Universal Fuel Primer System Kit. Replaces OEM Kohler
part # 14 755 36-S. $11.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
XT Fuel Primer Kit. OEM Kohler part # 14 755 36-S. $18.05 each, plus
shipping.
|
Vented Metal Fuel/Gas Caps. Replace
deteriorated, damaged or missing gas cap for safety. Each gas cap below fits
OEM gas tank on I-built Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86,
100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128,
129, 147, 149, 169, including 800, 1000, 1200, 1250, 1450 and 1650 with serial
number 560209 and lower. Also fits larger Briggs & Stratton, Clinton,
Tecumseh, Lauson, Wisconsin and various other makes and models of small engine
gas tanks with a 1-3/4" inlet. Unpainted; apply coat of paint to prevent
rusting.
-
1-3/4" metal vented ordinary
fuel/gas caps w/alcohol-resistant paper-like anti-splash sealing gasket.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 236655-S and Cub Cadet part
# KH-236655. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 236655-S. $18.25 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Cub Cadet part # KH-236655. Replaces Kohler part # 236655-S.
$24.05 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
1-3/4" metal vented safety fuel/gas
cap w/alcohol-resistant neoprene rubber sealing gasket, fuel baffle/splash
shield and foam rubber
(reticulated polyurethane foam) to absorb and prevent fuel
from spewing out of vent hole due to engine vibration. Ideal for an open
RPM competition pulling tractor.
-
OEM Briggs & Stratton part #'s 69221, 297866, 297866S, 392305, 393156,
395005. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Alcohol-resistant neoprene rubber
O-ring for inside of 1-3/4" fuel/gas caps. Provides a better seal against
the rim of a slightly bent or damaged filler neck on gas tank to lessen loss
of fuel when tank is full. For a better seal, pry out and install under
paper-like gasket material in gas cap. Fits snug in gas cap. $1.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
 FYI - If a gas cap is missing the sealing gasket/splash
shield, this part can be made from durable
paper-like gasket material by cutting out a piece so the
outside diameter fits snug inside the cap. Be sure to make a small hole (1/32")
off-center in the gasket for the atmospheric vent to draw air in the tank
as fuel is depleted. And if fuel spews out of the vent hole in the cap (with
the gasket/splash shield installed) with a full tank of gas due to normal
engine vibration, to prevent a possible fire, place a small piece of porous
foam rubber
(reticulated polyurethane foam) between the gasket/splash
shield and vent hole in the cap. The foam will absorb the fuel and block
it from being forced out the vent hole, and it'll allow incoming outside
air to pass through as fuel is depleted in the tank.
Vented Gas Cap/Fuel Level Gauge
w/Ribbing. Replace deteriorated, damaged or missing gas cap for safety. Fits
I-built Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104,
105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149,
169, 1100, including Cub Cadet AQS "Quiet Line" garden tractor models 800,
1000, 1200, 1250, 1450 and 1650 with serial number 560209 and lower. Replaces
gas caps (without gauge) listed above. Fits metal and plastic gas tanks with
1-3/4" threaded inlet and 5" depth. 5-1/2" overall length.
-
New Old Stock. Discontinued Cub Cadet part # IH-61635-C3. $40.00? each,
plus shipping & handling. (When available; price may vary depending
on source and availability.)
Vented Gas Caps/Fuel Level
Gauge w/Projected Grips. Replace deteriorated, damaged or missing gas cap
for safety. Fits I-built Cub Cadet AQS "Quiet Line" garden tractor models
800, 1000, 1200, 1250, 1450 and 1650 with serial number 560210 and higher.
Fits plastic gas tank with 2" threaded inlet and 5" depth. 5-1/2" overall
length.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-109037-C2.
$24.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-109037-C2. $49.40 each, plus shipping &
handling.
Vented Gas Caps/Fuel Level Gauge
w/Projected Grips. Replace deteriorated, damaged or missing gas cap for safety.
Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682,
782, 784, 982, 984, 986, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1282, 1604, 1606, 1710, 1711,
1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1872, 1912, 1914 and 2072. Fits plastic gas
tank with 2" threaded inlet and 10" depth. 10-5/8" overall length.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Cub Cadet part # 951-0226A. $37.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Cub Cadet part # 951-0226A. $54.10 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Small Size Plastic
Inline Fuel Filters w/fine mesh metal screen. Replace clogged, deteriorated
or damaged filter to prevent fuel flow problems. Each filter installs either
direction. Dimensions of each filter: 1/4" barbed fuel hose fittings x 1-3/8"
maximum diameter x 1-3/4" overall length. Each replaces Kohler part # 25
050 07-S1.
-
Red; 150
micron.
Each listed below suitable with a gravity feed fuel system.
-
High quality aftermarket. A-1 Miller's part # 21-6000. Replaces Briggs &
Stratton part # 298090S, Kohler part # 24 050 03-S and Scag part # 48057-02.
$3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 24 050 03-S. $60.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Translucent or White; 75
micron.
Each listed below filters out smaller objects than filter above. Suitable
with a pulse-type/vacuum-operated fuel pump, mechanical fuel pump, 12 volt
electric fuel pump, or electronic fuel
injection. Install before fuel pump to lessen dirt/debris wear to poppet
or reed valves in pump.
-
High quality aftermarket. A-1 Miller's part # 21-1349. Replaces Briggs &
Stratton part # 394358S, Kohler part # 25 050 42-S and Toro part # 55-6360.
$3.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 25 050 42-S. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Medium Size Plastic
Inline Fuel Filter w/pleated paper filtering material. Replace clogged and/or
deteriorated filter to prevent fuel flow problems. Suitable for use with
gravity feed fuel system, pulse-type/vacuum-operated fuel pump, mechanical
fuel pump or a 12 volt electric fuel pump.
Install before fuel pump to lessen dirt/debris wear to poppet or reed valves
within pump. Dimensions: 1/4" and 5/16" barbed fittings x 1-1/2" maximum
diameter x 4-3/8" overall length.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 25 050 22-S1, 41 050 03-S.
$3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 25 050 22-S1, 41 050 03-S. $7.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
|
  Fuel Hose Clamps.
Fits 1/4" I.D. x 1/2" O.D. reinforced fuel hose (to the right). Necessary
for safety when using a fuel pump in a pressurized fuel line and to prevent
a vacuum leak at the suction end.
-
Spring-Loaded Clamp. High quality aftermarket. .50¢ each, plus
shipping & handling.
-
Spring-Loaded Clamp. OEM Kohler part # 25 237 37-S. $1.30 each, plus
shipping & handling.
-
Stainless Steel Worm Gear Clamp. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
1/4" I.D. x
1/2" O.D. Black
Neoprene
Rubber Fuel Hose. Reinforced with braided rayon weaving. Necessary for safety
when using a fuel pump in a pressurized fuel line. Suitable for 100% gasoline,
gas w/10% alcohol, E85 or methanol fuels. Maximum
burst pressure: 15 P.S.I.
-
High quality aftermarket. .15¢ per inch, plus shipping &
handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 25 111 81-S. (1/4" I.D. x 39" length.) $12.00 each,
plus shipping & handling.
|
Hard Rubber Sleeve
for metal fuel line and compression fittings. Fits certain early Kohler engine
models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, M8, K301, K321, K341, K482, K532,
K582 and K660. Replace deteriorated, cracked and dry-rotted rubber sleeve
to prevent dangerous and hazardous fuel leak. Dimensions: 7/32" I.D. x .255"
O.D. (Other parts shown in drawing to the right -> have been discontinued
from Kohler.)
-
OEM Kohler part # 220547-S. $5.70 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Fuel Hose
Conversion/Upgrade Kit. Do away with the old-fashioned sediment bowl/fuel
filter and metal fuel line. This kit replaces the fuel sediment bowl assembly,
U-shape metal fuel line and fuel fittings with the hard rubber compression
sleeves (above). Suitable for Kohler and virtually any small engine with
gravity fuel feed and carburetor positioned lower than any part of the gas
tank. This conversion/upgrade kit includes 1/4" I.D. x 12" length reinforced
black fuel hose, small inline fuel filter, one new straight 1/4" barbed fuel
hose fitting x 1/8" NPT male threads fitting, one new 90º 1/8" NPT male
threads x 1/4" barbed fuel hose fitting, and four spring-type fuel hose clamps.
The 90º fitting goes in the carburetor with the barbed end facing downward,
the straight fitting fastens in the gas tank, the fuel filter goes just below
the gas tank close to the straight fitting, and the rest of the fuel hose
routes underneath the carburetor and connects to the 90º fitting. Use
plumber's thread sealing tape to guarantee a leak-proof
seal. $12.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling. |
Nylon Inline
Fuel Shut-Off Valve w/alcohol-resistant neoprene seal and 1/4" barbed fuel
hose fittings. alcohol-resistant. No filter. Lever rotates 90º OFF/ON
position. Use for a leaky carburetor or
long term storage
of equipment. This part is required by certain garden tractor pulling
associations/clubs for safety. A-1 Miller's part # 24-1036. $3.00
each, plus shipping & handling. |
Heavy Duty, All
Metal Inline Fuel Shut-Off Valve with 1/4" barbed fuel hose fittings.
Alcohol-resistant. No filter. Lever rotates 90º OFF/ON position. Use
for a leaky carburetor or
long term storage
of equipment. This part is required by certain garden tractor pulling
associations/clubs for safety. A-1 Miller's part # 24-1166. $16.00
each, plus shipping & handling. |
Heavy Duty, 90º
1/8" NPT Threads gas tank-Mounted Shut-Off Valve w/Fine Mesh Brass Filter
Screen and 1/4" Barbed Fuel Hose Fitting. Threads into bottom of metal gas
tank. To be used with metal gas tanks on various Kohler engine models K90/K91,
K141, K160/K161,
L160/L161, L181, K181, K241, K301, K341,
M8, M14, M20, CH15, CH22, CH23, CH680 and ECH730. Use for a leaky carburetor
or long term storage of
equipment. This part is required by certain pulling associations/clubs
for safety. Replaces: AMF 42879; Bolens 1703896, 1718029; Briggs & Stratton
396244, 399517, 698182; Gravely 18563; John Deere AM31850, PT8655; Kohler
220764-S; Lawn Boy 677052; Noma 42879; Scag 48056; Snapper 2-4507, 3-4212,
24507, 34212, 7024507, 7034212; Tecumseh 27689, 27803, 28571, 29683, 430137,
430209; Toro 304-71.
-
High quality aftermarket. Has alcohol-resistant
neoprene
rubber O-ring seal. A-1 Miller's part # 24-1037. $6.50 each, plus
shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 220764-S. $27.77 each, plus shipping & handling.
Alcohol-resistant
neoprene
rubber O-ring seal for shut-off valve listed above
È. Replace deteriorated, cracked and
dry-rotted O-ring or leather packing which can cause leaking fuel. Dimensions:
3/16" I.D. x 5/16" O.D.
-
.25¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Alcohol-Resistant
Neoprene
Rubber Gas Tank Fuel Fitting Bushings (Grommets). Replace deteriorated, cracked,
dry-rotted, hardened bushing/grommet, which can cause dangerous and hazardous
fuel leak. Along with either fuel fitting listed further below, this part
can be used to repair (replace) the integrated fuel fitting on a plastic
gas tank. Use oil or grease for easy installation into hole in bottom of
plastic gas tank. Fuel fittings and fuel shut-off valves that plugs into
these parts listed below. In addition to these fittings, for competition
pulling only, this part can also be used as a fuel return system on top of
gas tank with a high pressure fuel pump when burning
E85 or methanol fuels to prevent carburetor flooding.
Each below have a 23/64" I.D. hole for a 3/8" fuel fitting.
-
Fits 33/64" (1/2") hole in
bottom of gas tank. (Most common size.) Designed for IH Cub Cadet
AQS "Quiet Line" garden tractors and MTD-built Cub Cadet garden tractors.
Replaces AMF 42690; Ariens 07509300, 07511400; Bolens 1738433; Briggs Power
Products 78299GS; Exmark 1-513645; Ferris 22151; Lawn-Boy 104047, 708331,
46-6560; GW-B1738433, 581615; MTD (Cub Cadet) 735-0149, 751-3008, 935-0149;
Murray 42690; Noma 44847; Scag 48309; Simplicity 1654930; Snapper 12337,
74158, 7012337, 7074158; Tecumseh 33679; Toro 46-6560, 1-513645, E513645;
Wheel Horse/Toro 104047, 104047P.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces MTD (Cub Cadet) part #'s 735-0149, 751-3008,
935-0149. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM MTD (Cub Cadet) part #'s 735-0149, 751-3008, 935-0149. $8.35 each,
plus shipping & handling.
-
Fits 35/64" (9/16") hole
in bottom of gas tank. Designed for fuel tank on Kohler Magnum engines.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 25 313 01-S. $7.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 25 313 01-S. $4.55 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
90º Metal
Plug-In gas tank Fitting w/o Filter Screen. Fits Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" models
and Kohler Magnum engines. Use with inline fuel filter. 1/2" barbed fitting
fastens in neoprene rubber bushing/grommet (above
È) in bottom of plastic gas tank. Along
with the grommet above, this part can be used to repair (replace) the fuel
fitting on a plastic gas tank. In addition to the grommet listed above, for
competition pulling only, this part can also be used as a fuel return system
on top of gas tank with a high pressure fuel pump when burning
E85 or methanol fuels to prevent carburetor flooding.
Use oil or grease for easy installation. 1/4" barbed fuel hose fitting. Replaces
Cub Cadet part # IH-109042-C2 (except w/o shut-off valve); Wheel Horse 04048
(except w/o shut-off valve and filter screen).
-
Our part # 751-3054. $3.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
90º Metal
Plug-In gas tank Shut-Off Valve w/o Filter Screen. Fits Cub Cadet AQS "Quiet
Line" models and Kohler Magnum engines. Use with inline fuel filter. 1/2"
barbed fitting fastens in neoprene rubber bushing (above
È) in bottom of plastic gas tank. Along
with the grommet above, this part can be used to repair (replace) the fuel
fitting on a plastic gas tank. Use oil or grease for easy installation. 1/4"
barbed fuel hose fitting. Use for a leaky carburetor or
long term storage of
equipment. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-109042-C2 and Kohler part # 25
462 01-S (except w/o filter screen); Wheel Horse 104048 (except w/o filter
screen).
-
Our part # 120-253. $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Alcohol resistant
neoprene
rubber O-ring seal for shut-off valve above
È. Replace deteriorated, cracked and
dry-rotted O-ring which cause leaking fuel. Dimensions: 3/16" I.D. x 5/16"
O.D.
-
.25¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
|
90º Metal
Plug-In gas tank Shut-Off Valve w/Fine Mesh Filter Screen. Fits Briggs &
Stratton, Cub Cadet AQS "Quiet Line" models and Kohler Magnum engines. 1/2"
barbed fitting fastens in neoprene rubber bushing (above
È) in bottom of plastic gas tank. Along
with the grommet above, this part can be used to repair (replace) the fuel
fitting on a plastic gas tank. Use oil or grease for easy installation. 1/4"
barbed fuel hose fitting. Use for a leaky carburetor or
long term storage of
equipment. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-109042-C2; Wheel Horse 104048
(except w/filter screen).
-
High quality aftermarket. A-1 Miller's part # 24-1132. $6.00 each,
plus shipping & handling.
-
Kohler part # 25 462 01-S. $20.15 each, plus shipping & handling.
Alcohol-resistant
neoprene
rubber O-ring seal for shut-off valve above
È. Replace deteriorated, cracked and
dry-rotted O-ring, which can cause dangerous and hazardous leaking fuel.
Dimensions: 3/16" I.D. x 5/16" O.D.
-
.25¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
|
High Quality 90º
Plastic Plug-In gas tank Shut-Off Valve w/Fine Mesh Filter Screen and
Alcohol-Resistant
Neoprene
Rubber Grommet Kit. Fits Briggs & Stratton, Cub Cadet AQS "Quiet Line"
models and Kohler Magnum engine gas tanks. Neoprene rubber grommet plugs
into bottom of plastic gas tank, and fuel fitting fastens in the grommet.
These parts can also be used to repair a damaged threaded fuel outlet hole
on the bottom of a plastic gas tank by drilling out threads with a 9/16"
drill bit, then install grommet and fitting. Use oil or grease for easy insertion
of each part. 1/4" and 5/16" stepped barbed fuel hose fitting. Replaces Cub
Cadet part # IH-109042-C2; Wheel Horse 104048 (except w/filter screen).
-
High quality aftermarket. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Briggs & Stratton part # 192980GS. $16.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
|
1/8" NPT x 1/8"
NPT x 3/4" length [close] steel pipe connector. Use to fasten fuel shut-off
/filter/sediment bowl assembly (listed below
Ê) to gas tank. Use
plumber's thread sealing tape to guarantee a leak-proof
seal.
-
High quality aftermarket. $1.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 25 136 23-S. $1.30 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Fuel
Shut-Off/Filter/Sediment Bowl Assembly. Allows for fuel to be filtered and
any heavy dirt or debris, or water content in the fuel to be settled in the
glass bowl. 100% cleanable. Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71,
72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 147,
and replacement for various other makes and models of older lawn and garden
small engines. Threads into bottom of gas tank. Use for a leaky carburetor
or long term storage of
equipment. This part is required by certain pulling associations/clubs
for safety. Dimensions - overall height: 3"; maximum width (not including
shut-off valve): 1-3/4"; thread fittings: inlet (top) and outlet (side) are
both 1/8" NPT. Use
plumber's thread sealing tape on fittings to guarantee
a leak-proof seal. Use fuel hose conversion/upgrade kit (above
È) instead if you wish. Complete assembly
discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler A-210101, 25 755 22-S; Briggs &
Stratton 293964, 295913, 295977, 296005, 393169, 690612; Clinton 293-32-500,
293-32-5; Gravely 010313; John Deere PT4337; Tecumseh 24449, 24459, 32164,
32439, 32984, 32984A, 34279, 34279A, 34279B; Wisconsin LP43. High quality
aftermarket. A-1 Miller's part # 21-1009. $11.50 each, plus shipping
& handling. |
Alcohol-resistant
neoprene
rubber O-ring seal for shut-off valve shaft in fuel shut-off/filter/sediment
bowl assembly listed above È. Replace
deteriorated, cracked and dry-rotted O-ring or leather packing, which can
cause dangerous and hazardous leaking fuel. Dimensions: 1/8" I.D. x 1/4"
O.D.
-
High quality aftermarket. .25¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Replacement
glass bowl for fuel shut-off/filter/sediment bowl assembly listed above
È. Dimensions: 1-1/2" maximum width
x 1-1/8" height. Replaces: Briggs & Stratton # 298683; John Deere # PT4271.
-
High quality aftermarket. $3.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 210467-S. $17.15 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Gasket
(Alcohol-Resistant Neoprene Rubber Seal) for fuel shut-off/filter/sediment
bowl assembly listed above È. Dimensions:
1-1/4" I.D. x 1-1/2" O.D. x .060" thickness.
-
High quality aftermarket. A-1 Miller's part # 14-1097. $1.00 each,
plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part # 210468-S. $5.45 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Fine Mesh Brass
Filter Screen for Fuel Sediment Bowl Assembly listed above
È. 1-1/4" O.D.
-
OEM Kohler part # 210479-S. $4.90 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Wing nuts, Pleated Air Filters and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Pre-Filters
-
Click here to contact A-1 Miller's
Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing,
and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance
and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need
a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in
this website. |
Each wingnut
listed below recommended for side-mounted air cleaner covers or battery hold-down
studs. Do not use on top-mounted air cleaner covers due to rain water seeping
into intake or when washing off engine. 1/4-20 UNC threads. Each replaces
Kohler part #'s X-276-7 and 25 100 15-S.
-
Plain Heavy Gauge Stamped Steel Wingnut. .25¢ each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
Bright Cadmium-Plated Aluminum Wingnut with Self-Locking Nylon Insert.
$1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Heavy Gauge Stamped Steel Wingnuts
with Adhered Rubber Seal. Recommended for top-mounted air cleaner covers
to prevent rain water from seeping into intake or when washing off engine.
Also, rubber seal prevents wingnut from loosening. 1/4-20 UNC threads.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part #'s X-276-7 and 25 100 15-S.
$2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler part #'s X-276-7 and 25 100 15-S. $3.16 each, plus shipping
& handling.
|
 Pleated Air Filter Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Pre-Filters.
Fits certain Kohler K-series engine models K91, K141, K161 and K181.
Non-restricting flame retardant filtering material. Performance engineered
for increased breathing. Air filter: Kohler 230840-S; Cub Cadet 385163R2;
Clinton 002-0233-00; Gravely 20299; John Deere AM31034; Massey 1035-991-M1;
Tecumseh 30804. Foam Wrap/Pre-Filter: Kohler 234870-S; John Deere AM31034;
Massey Ferguson 1035-991. Air filter element dimensions (±): 4-3/8"
O.D. x 3" I.D. x 1-1/2" overall height.
-
High quality aftermarket air filter. $8.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
High quality aftermarket foam wrap/Pre-Filter. $4.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
OEM Kohler air filter. $22.40 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler foam wrap/Pre-Filter. $7.55 each, plus shipping &
handling..
NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/pre-filter, use
brake parts cleaner,
electrical/electronic contact cleaner,
cleaning solvent or
paint thinner (these leave behind no oily residue) and
150± P.S.I. compressed air with an
air blow gun nozzle, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not
add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because
some of the oil could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is
running, partially clogging it. |
 Pleated Air Filters and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Pre-Filters. Fits
certain Kohler K-series engine model K181. Non-restricting flame retardant
filtering material. Performance engineered for increased breathing. Air filter:
Kohler 231847-S; Cub Cadet 548436R1; Gravely 15373; John Deere AM30800; Tecumseh
31925; Onan 140-1188, 140-188; Rol Air 431. Foam Wrap/Pre-Filter: Kohler
234869-S (K-series), 41 083 04-S (Magnum). Air filter element dimensions
(±): 4-3/8" O.D. x 3" I.D. x 2-5/16" overall height.
-
High quality aftermarket air filter. $10.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
High quality aftermarket foam wrap/pre-filter. $4.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
OEM Kohler air filter. $12.05 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler foam wrap/pre-filter. $7.55 each, plus shipping & handling.
NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/pre-filter, use
brake parts cleaner,
electrical/electronic contact cleaner,
cleaning solvent or
paint thinner (these leave behind no oily residue) and
150± P.S.I. compressed air with an
air blow gun nozzle, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not
add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because
some of the oil could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is
running, partially clogging it. |
 Pleated Air Filter Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Pre-Filters.
Fits various Kohler engine models K141, K161, K181, M8, K241, M10, K301,
M12 and K321, M14 with the short
round metal air cleaner/filter assembly. Non-restricting flame retardant
filtering material. Performance engineered for increased breathing. Air filter:
Kohler 235116-S; Cub Cadet 385168R2. Foam Wrap/Pre-Filter: Kohler 237421-S.
Air filter element dimensions (±): 6" O.D. x 4-11/16" I.D. x 1-7/8"
overall height.
-
High quality aftermarket air filter. $10.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
High quality aftermarket foam wrap/pre-filter. $3.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
OEM Kohler air filter. $10.60 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler foam wrap/pre-filter. $4.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/pre-filter, use
brake parts cleaner,
electrical/electronic contact cleaner,
cleaning solvent or
paint thinner (these leave behind no oily residue) and
150± P.S.I. compressed air with an
air blow gun nozzle, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not
add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because
some of the oil could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is
running, partially clogging it. |
 Pleated Air Filter Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Pre-Filters.
Fits certain Kohler and Magnum engine models K241, K301, K321, K341, CH11-15,
KT17 (first design), KT19 (first design), and M18-20 engines with the
AQS "Quiet Line" oblong/egg-shape
metal air cleaner/filter assembly. Fits Kohler AQS "Quiet Line" series
engines in Cub Cadet models 680, 1000, 1050, 1200, 1204, 1211, 1250, 1282,
1450 and 1650. Non-restricting flame retardant filtering material. Performance
engineered for increased breathing. Air filter: Kohler 47 083 01-S; Cub Cadet
117210-C1, 759-3547, 959-3547; Gravely 032494, John Deere M83646, Lesco 012596.
Foam Wrap/Pre-Filter: Kohler 52 083 01-S. Air filter element dimensions
(±): 7" O.D. x 5-1/2" I.D. x 1-3/4" overall height.
-
High quality aftermarket air filter. $11.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
High quality aftermarket foam wrap/pre-filter. $3.50 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
OEM Kohler air filter. $17.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler foam wrap/pre-filter. $4.55 each, plus shipping & handling.
NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/pre-filter, use
brake parts cleaner,
electrical/electronic contact cleaner,
cleaning solvent or
paint thinner (these leave behind no oily residue) and
150± P.S.I. compressed air with an
air blow gun nozzle, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not
add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because
some of the oil could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is
running, partially clogging it. |
 Pleated Air Filter Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Pre-Filters.
Fits Kohler engine models K341, CH18-25, CV18-22, KT17 Series II, KT19 Series
II and M18-20; for 17 thru 22hp engines with the
AQS "Quiet Line" oblong/egg-shape
metal air cleaner/filter assembly. Fits Kohler AQS "Quiet Line" series
engines. Non-restricting flame retardant filtering material. Performance
engineered for increased breathing. Air filter: Kohler 47 083 03-S; John
Deere M47494 (fits JD models 200, 210, 212, 214, 216, 300, 312, 314, 316,
400); Woods 71803. Foam Wrap/Pre-Filter: Kohler 41 083 04-S. Air filter
element dimensions (±): 7" O.D. x 5-1/2" I.D. x 2-7/16" overall
height.
-
High quality aftermarket air filter. $9.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
High quality aftermarket foam wrap/pre-filter. $4.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
OEM Kohler air filter. $9.65 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler foam wrap/pre-filter. $6.65 each, plus shipping & handling.
NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/pre-filter, use
brake parts cleaner,
electrical/electronic contact cleaner,
cleaning solvent or
paint thinner (these leave behind no oily residue) and
150± P.S.I. compressed air with an
air blow gun nozzle, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not
add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because
some of the oil could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is
running, partially clogging it. |
 Pleated Air Filter Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Pre-Filters.
Fits Kohler Command CH25, CV18, CV20 and CV22. Non-restricting flame retardant
filtering material. Performance engineered for increased breathing. Air filter:
Kohler 24 083 09-S; John Deere GY20576. Foam Wrap/Pre-Filter: Kohler 24 083
02-S. Air filter element dimensions (±): 7" O.D. x 5-1/2" I.D. x
3" overall height.
-
High quality aftermarket air filter. $11.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
High quality aftermarket foam wrap/pre-filter. $3.50 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
OEM Kohler air filter. $20.05 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler foam wrap/pre-filter. $4.55 each, plus shipping & handling.
NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/pre-filter, use
brake parts cleaner,
electrical/electronic contact cleaner,
cleaning solvent or
paint thinner (these leave behind no oily residue) and
150± P.S.I. compressed air with an
air blow gun nozzle, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not
add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because
some of the oil could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is
running, partially clogging it. |
 Pleated Air Filter Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Pre-Filters.
Fits certain Kohler engine models M8, K321, M14, K341, M16, KT17 Series II,
MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20 with the
tall round metal air cleaner/filter
assembly. Can also
be used on a competition garden pulling tractors, mini rod pulling vehicles,
hot rods, etc., with an automotive engine. Non-restricting flame retardant
filter. Performance engineered for increased breathing. Air filter: Kohler
45 083 02-S; Cub Cadet 759-3359. Foam Wrap/Pre-Filter: Kohler 45 083 01-S.
Air filter element dimensions (±): 6" O.D. x 4-11/16" I.D. x 3" overall
height.
-
High quality aftermarket air filter. $9.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
High quality aftermarket foam wrap/pre-filter. $3.50 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
OEM Kohler air filter. $17.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler foam wrap/pre-filter. $3.75 each, plus shipping & handling.
NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/pre-filter, use
brake parts cleaner,
electrical/electronic contact cleaner,
cleaning solvent or
paint thinner (these leave behind no oily residue) and
150± P.S.I. compressed air with an
air blow gun nozzle, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not
add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because
some of the oil could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is
running, partially clogging it. |
 Pleated Air Filter Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Pre-Filters.
Fits various Kohler engine models K241, K301, K341, K482, K532 and K582 with
the tall round-shape metal
air cleaner/filter assembly. Can also be used on mini rod pulling vehicles,
hot rods, etc. with an automotive engine. Non-restricting flame retardant
filtering material. Performance engineered for increased breathing. Air filter:
Kohler 277138-S. Foam Wrap/Pre-Filter: Kohler 277593-S. Air filter element
dimensions (±): 6" O.D. x 4-3/4" I.D. x 4" overall height.
-
High quality aftermarket air filter. $12.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
High quality aftermarket foam wrap/pre-filter. $5.00 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
OEM Kohler air filter. $20.70 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Kohler foam wrap/pre-filter. $16.10 each, plus shipping &
handling.
NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/pre-filter, use
brake parts cleaner,
electrical/electronic contact cleaner,
cleaning solvent or
paint thinner (these leave behind no oily residue) and
150± P.S.I. compressed air with an
air blow gun nozzle, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not
add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because
some of the oil could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is
running, partially clogging it. |
1-7/8" Short Round OEM Kohler
Air Cleaner Assembly. Can be used to replace missing or damaged air cleaner
assembly on Kohler engine models K241, K301 or K321, or can be used on the
AQS (Quiet Line) engine models K241, K301, K321 to allow for more air to
enter the engine to produce more power. Complete assembly includes: new mounting
gasket, pleated paper air filter element, foam wrap/pre-filter, mounting
base, cover and wing nut. Used and in excellent condition. Discontinued Kohler
part # A-235100-S. $80.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When
available or in stock.) |
3" Tall Round OEM Kohler
Air Cleaner Assembly. Can be used to replace the shorter air cleaner assembly
with the 1-7/8" tall air filter element on Kohler engine models K241, K301
or K321, or can be used on the AQS (Quiet Line) engine models K241, K301,
K321, K341, K361, M10, M12, M14 or M16 to allow for more air to enter the
engine to produce more power. This taller air filter element will also last
60% longer under dusty conditions than the shorter air filter element. Complete
assembly includes: new mounting gasket, pleated paper air filter element,
foam wrap/pre-filter, mounting base, cover and wing nut. Used and in excellent
condition. $80.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available
or in stock.) |
NOTE: Air filters and foam wraps/pre-filters are
available for various other makes and models of small engines. If you need
something that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's
with your engine model and specification numbers and I'll see if we can get
it for you at a reasonable price. Please contact A-1 Miller's
if you're interested in any of the listed above
È parts or items.
FYI - Being the OEM Kohler [oil
bath] air cleaner assembly and individual air cleaner components for the
Kohler K90/K91 engine with the Carter Model N #13 or #16 carburetor (shown
above) are no longer available, and used OEM Kohler K90/K91 air cleaner
assemblies or components in good condition are extremely hard to find nowadays
and/or is cost prohibitive, the lower priced and readily available alternative
is to use an OEM Tecumseh air cleaner assembly (shown on the Kohler K91 engine
above) will fit this engine with one modification that needs to be made.
The center of the [plastic] mounting adapter will need to be bored-out/enlarged
to match the diameter of the inlet opening of the carburetor to allow the
engine to draw plenty of air. This air cleaner assembly includes a pleated
paper air filter element (part # 35066), plastic twist-on cover (part # 35065),
plastic mounting adapter (part # 35797), and mounting gasket (part # 27272A).
Two 8-32 UNC screws with two small spacers and two flat washers w/lock washers
and gasket are also needed to securely fasten the adapter to the carburetor.
And the OEM Tecumseh air cleaner assembly shown to the right -> (part
# 730164), which includes a pleated paper air filter element, metal cover,
and metal mounting plate, will also fit this engine with no modifications
whatsoever. The OEM Kohler air cleaner assemblies for Kohler engine models
K141, K160/K161 and K181 will also fit the K90/K91 engine carburetor. |
Never Over-Tighten the Mounting Bolts or Use Multiple Gaskets When Fastening
the Carburetor to the Engine! (Updated 11/26/16)
When installing the carburetor
to an engine, the use of two or more gaskets and then torquing the mounting
bolts to specifications, or just over-tightening the bolts will severely
warp the mounting flange on a carburetor, causing it to bend, which will
create a vacuum leak, or worse yet, being cast aluminum don't bend or flex
too easily, the flange could break. So remember, before installing any
carburetor, first resurface the mounting flange on a wide, flat
belt- or disc-sander/grinder or on the side of an abrasive
metal cutting wheel on a
electric chop saw (the kind that automotive muffler shops
use) to remove warpage and restore flatness (be sure to use eye protection!),
and for general lawn and garden use, install just one thin (.030" thickness)
gasket or one (5/32" thickness) heat isolator
gasket. And be sure to use the "two-bolt torque" sequence! To do this,
lightly tighten the first bolt, then lightly tighten the second bolt, and
tighten the first bolt securely, and then tighten the second bolt securely.
If a Carter or Kohler or Walbro carburetor body is broken and/or damaged
beyond repair, the carburetor body is 100% scrap metal. (If the threads for
the float bowl retaining bolt are stripped-out, read below
Ê.) But the parts on the carburetor body
are considered valuable and can be used on another carburetor body that's
in good condition (if some of the parts are in fact reusable). Parts such
as: throttle and choke shafts and plates, choke friction (detent) ball and
spring, idle speed adjusting screw and spring, idle fuel mixture screw and
spring, high speed air/fuel needle adjuster and spring, main jet/nozzle (emulsion
tube), fuel inlet valve and seat (if not worn and leaks fuel), float, float
pin, float bowl, neoprene rubber O-ring seal, fuel baffle/splash shield,
bowl retaining screw, and fuel hose fitting. The OEM (US) manufacturers
are phasing out many parts for flathead engines due to EPA smog emissions.
But some parts may still be available in aftermarket.
How to Repair Stripped-Out Float Bowl Retaining Bolt Threads in a Carter
or Kohler or Walbro Carburetor -
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But if the threads
for the float bowl retaining bolt are stripped-out in a Carter Model N #13,
#16, #18, #20, #22 carburetor, an 8mm fine thread (M8 x 1.25 pitch) metric
bolt can be used. But if the metric threads become stripped-out, then a 3/8-24
UNF bowl retaining bolt (for the Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 or Walbro
WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors) can be used. For the 8mm
metric bolt, an 8mm x 1.25
bottom hand tap will need to be used. But for a 3/8-24
bolt, the stripped-out hole will need to be enlarged with a 21/64" drill
bit (be careful not to drill into the main jet; there's no need to remove
the main jet/nozzle), and new threads will need to be cut
perpendicular
to the carburetor body with a 3/8-24 UNF
bottom hand tap. A bottom tap cuts the threads deeper with
very little taper at the end. Do not complete the tapping process with just
a taper or plug tap because the threads may not go deep enough for the bigger
bolt. However, the threads can be started with a taper or plug tap, but will
need to be finished with the bottom tap. Then use 150± P.S.I. compressed
air with an air blow gun nozzle to thoroughly clear out the metal
drilling/cuttings from the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube) and entire carburetor!
A 3/8" I.D. fiber washer will need to be used with the 3/8" bolt, and the
hole in the float bowl will need to be drilled out to 3/8" to match the bolt
in the carburetor, or use a float bowl with a 3/8" hole. And do not over-tighten
the metric bolt to prevent from stripping the new threads. If the metric
threads strip out, the carburetor body is scrap metal.
If the threads for the float
bowl retaining bolt are stripped-out in a Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30,
Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 or virtually any other carburetor
that use a 3/8"-24 UNF float bowl retaining bolt, a 10mm fine thread (M10
x 1.25 pitch) x 3/8" thread length bolt can be used. If a 3/8" length metric
bolt can't be found, a longer bolt that's made of mild steel can be machined
down (shortened) in a metal lathe. IMPORTANT:
If you don't feel comfortable using a metal lathe, please consult a professional
and experienced machinist with a lathe. Being the stripped-out
hole is already large enough for the M10 x 1.25 threads to be cut, so it
won't need to be drilled out. But if it does need drilling out (enlarging),
use an 8.8 mm or 11/32" drill bit (be careful not to drill into the main
jet; there's no need to remove the main jet/nozzle), then new threads will
need to be cut
perpendicular
to the carburetor body with a M10 x 1.25
bottom hand tap. A bottom tap cuts the threads deeper
with very little taper at the end. Do not complete the tapping process with
just a taper or plug tap because the threads may not go deep enough for the
metric bolt. However, the threads can be started with a taper or plug tap,
but will need to be finished with the bottom tap. Then use 150± P.S.I.
compressed air with an air blow gun nozzle to thoroughly clear out the metal
drilling/cuttings from the main jet/nozzle and entire carburetor! Also, the
holes in the fiber washer and in the float bowl for the retaining bolt will
need to be enlarged to 13/32" to match the bolt in the carburetor. And do
not over-tighten the metric bolt to prevent from stripping the new threads.
If the metric threads strip out, the carburetor body is scrap metal. But
save everything off of it because they can be used on another carburetor
body that's in good condition.
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On a used (and supposedly clean) carburetor, if the float bowl
retaining bolt will not effortlessly tighten against the float bowl to secure
it in place, DO NOT FORCE THE BOLT TO TIGHTEN! Doing this may cause the thin-wall
metal to split, possibly rendering the carburetor useless. The resistance
in threading the bolt in the hole is caused by debris "gumming up" the threads
in the carburetor body (or in the threads of the bolt). Instead, clean the
threads in the carburetor body with a 3/8-24 UNF BOTTOM hand tap, then use
150± P.S.I. compressed air with an air blow gun nozzle to clear out
the debris. With a bottom tap, there's no need to remove the main jet/nozzle
(emulsion tube). But if the protruding part where the float bowl bolt threads
into is previously cracked or does split, a spring-loaded 1/2" fuel hose
clamp can be installed over the protruding part with the opening in the clamp
opposite the crack. This will reinforce the aluminum, squeeze the tube back
to its original size and prevent the crack from spreading when the bolt is
tightened. After the clamp is installed, grind the protruding tangs flush
with the clamp so they will not make contact with and interfere with the
operation of the float. The clamp will then become a permanent part of the
carburetor. And if any part of the clamp blocks off the fuel feed holes,
a new 3/32" fuel feed hole will need to be drilled through the opening in
the clamp so fuel from the float bowl can reach the main jet/nozzle. This
size hole should be big enough to allow plenty of fuel to enter through the
main jet.
How to Repair the (3hp) Vacu-Jet and (3.5 or
4hp) Pulsa-Jet Automatic Choke Carburetors on a Briggs & Stratton Vertical
Shaft Flathead Engine - [Top of Page]
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The first design Vacu-Jet carburetor
have a manual choke and no diaphragm. The carburetor body is fastened to
the gas tank with a single gasket. The second design Vacu-Jet carburetor
have a manual choke and a neoprene diaphragm with a bellow for easier operation
of the choke. The third design Vacu-Jet carburetor have an automatic choke
and a diaphragm. The diaphragm acts like a gasket between the carburetor
body and gas tank. And the Pulsa-Jet carburetor have a diaphragm and built-in
fuel pump to deliver fuel to the combustion chamber. The Vacu-Jet and Pulsa-Jet
carburetors operates off of intake vacuum to deliver fuel to the combustion
chamber. Both of the [newest design] Vacu-Jet and Pulsa-Jet carburetors have
a diaphragm and automatic choke. If either of the [newest design] Vacu-Jet
and Pulsa-Jet carburetors run rich on fuel, and if the choke will not open
after starting the engine, what has happened is where the carburetor is fastened
to the gas tank, these two "mating surfaces" have become warped. This is
caused by over-tightening of the air filter housing screw. To fix this...
-
Remove the carburetor/gas tank assembly from the engine.
-
Remove the choke rod cover from the carburetor and the carburetor from the
gas tank.
-
Completely disassemble the carburetor, except for the throttle shaft and
choke plate. Gently remove the fuel pickup tubes with a 3/8" and 9/16" 6-point
socket. Be careful not to twist them off in the carburetor!
-
Use a
carburetor jet cleaner wire set or an
oxy-acetylene welding torch tip cleaner of the correct
size to clear out the dried gas and/or dirt/debris from the idle and main
nozzle holes.
IMPORTANT: When cleaning
the holes, use a wire cleaner of the correct size, and be careful not to
enlarge either hole, or the engine may run too rich on fuel! This cannot
be undone!
-
There is no need to use Briggs & Stratton's roll pin and Teflon washer
repair kit for a warped carburetor and gas tank! Instead, resurface the
carburetor's diaphragm surface on a wide, flat
belt- or disc-sander/grinder or on the side of an abrasive
metal cutting wheel on a
electric chop saw (the kind that automotive muffler shops
use) to remove warpage and restore flatness. (Be sure to use eye protection!)
If the carburetor is warped, the sander/grinder will make contact where the
screw holes are, but not the area between the screw holes.
-
Again, there is no need to use Briggs & Stratton's roll pin and Teflon
washer repair kit for a warped carburetor and gas tank! Instead, with the
gas tank lightly clamped in a large bench vise, resurface the diaphragm surface
with a large, wide, flat file to remove warpage and restore flatness. Use
caution! Do not "rock the file" when resurfacing the mating surface of the
tank! Use diagonal and swirling motions of the file so the diaphragm surface
will be more or less even across the gas tank, or very little will be
gained.'
-
NOTE: Don't believe all brain-washed, factory-trained technicians. Because
sometimes one must improvise to make something work. And regardless of how
the service/repair manual reads, using a large, flat file to make the warped
surface on a carburetor and/or gas tank flat again will not hurt anything
if a skillful person does it correctly. Briggs & Stratton wants to make
more money by selling unsuspecting customers new parts. That's why they write
their manuals the way they do. Remember the old saying: "A fool and their
money are soon parted." Briggs & Stratton probably laugh all the way
to the bank after making every sale, too.
-
After resurfacing, use a
hacksaw blade to recut (or deepen) the shallow groove from the choke bellow
well to the vacuum port. Doing this will allow the choke plate to open
immediately when the engine starts. Failure to do this will allow the choke
plate to open very slowly or not open at all, which will cause the engine
to flood out and die.
-
Use 150± P.S.I. compressed air with an air blow gun nozzle to clear
out the metal filings and any dirt or debris from the air and fuel passageways
in the carburetor, screens on the fuel pickup tubes, and entire gas tank.
-
Reinstall the fuel pickup tubes in the carburetor with the 3/8" and 9/16"
6-point socket. Be careful not to twist them off in the carburetor!
-
To reinstall the carburetor on the gas tank, hold the carburetor upside-down,
place the fuel pump spring and protective cup in its counterbore, and the
diaphragm on the carburetor (a new diaphragm should be installed), and place
the tank on the carburetor. Doing this retains the diaphragm and fuel pump
spring/protector in place. Make sure the fuel pump flapper valves are in
place, too. Then while holding the carburetor tight against the tank, flip
both the carburetor and gas tank over and the screws can be installed.
-
Insert the choke rod in the choke shaft and flip the choke plate over of
normal operation. This preloads the bellow in the diaphragm, making it
flex easier and allows the choke plate open easier when the engine starts.
-
If it's a Pulsa-Jet carburetor, invert the carburetor (turn upside down)
and place the fuel pump spring in first with the protective cap on the spring.
Place the spring and cap in the carburetor recess, and not in the gas tank
recess. With the carburetor still upside down, install the diaphragm on the
carburetor, place the tank on the carburetor, then flip them over to loosely
install the mounting screws.
-
Connect the choke rod to the choke lever, and flip the choke plate over in
the reverse rotation with the lever facing downward. Doing this places pressure
on the bellow of the diaphragm so the choke plate can open more freely without
binding when the engine starts.
-
Tighten the carburetor mounting screws, reinstall the choke rod cover with
a new gasket and that's it!
How to Repair the Pulsa-Jet Carburetor on a 5hp
Briggs & Stratton Vertical or Horizontal Shaft Flathead Engine
- [Top of Page]
If a 5hp Briggs & Stratton engine has excellent spark and adequate
compression, but doesn't run right, then the problem is obviously in the
carburetor. To fix the problem...
-
Remove the carburetor from the engine and gas tank, completely disassemble,
and clean the carburetor body and metal parts with an
ultrasonic cleaning machine. Personally, I use
automotive windshield washer fluid and a small amount of laundry detergent
in my ultrasonic cleaner and it cleans carburetor and other small parts very
well. Although
Berryman® Chem-Dip® Carburetor and Parts Cleaner
can also be used to dissolve or loosen any dried gas deposits, crud and debris.
And use brake cleaner, parts cleaner or paint thinner to finish cleaning
off the remaining grime, then blow-dry the parts and clear the debris from
the carburetor body and fuel passageways with 150± P.S.I. compressed
air and an air blow gun nozzle.
-
Use a
carburetor jet cleaner wire set or an
oxy-acetylene welding torch tip cleaner of the correct
size to clear out the dried gas and/or dirt/debris from the idle and main
nozzle holes.
IMPORTANT: When cleaning
the holes, use a wire cleaner of the correct size, and be careful not to
enlarge either hole, or the engine may run too rich on fuel! This cannot
be undone!
-
Use 150± P.S.I. compressed air with an air blow gun nozzle to clear
the debris from the nozzle holes, entire carburetor and gas tank.
-
Clean the screens on the pickup tubes.
-
When the carburetor-to-block mounting screws are tightened for the first
time, this will cause the carburetor mounting flange to warp, which allows
for a vacuum leak. To fix this, resurface the carburetor flange on a wide,
flat
belt- or disc-sander/grinder or on the side of an abrasive
metal cutting wheel on a
electric chop saw (the kind that automotive muffler shops
use) to remove warpage and restore flatness. (Be sure to use eye protection!)
If the flange is warped, the sander will make contact where the bolt holes
are, but not the area between the bolt holes.
-
Again, when the fuel pump cover mounting screws are tightened for the first
time, this will cause the cover to warp, which creates a vacuum leak, and
the pump will not produce full flow and pressure to the reservoir bowl. To
fix this, resurface the cover with a wide, flat
belt- or disc-sander/grinder or on the side of an abrasive
metal cutting wheel on a
electric chop saw (the kind that automotive muffler shops
use) to remove warpage and restore flatness. (Be sure to use eye protection!)
-
Install a new fuel pump
diaphragm, carburetor to tank gasket and carburetor to block gasket, set
the fuel mixture adjustment screw about 1-1/2 turns out, and make the final
adjustment after the engine runs.
-
If the throttle shaft needs to be removed for whatever reason, first pull
the sheet metal spiral from the throttle bore with large pliers or
long/needle-nose Vise-Grips locking pliers. Then access
to the throttle plate retaining screw can be gained with a long slender
screwdriver. Repair as needed.
-
Your engine should run like new afterwards!
Whenever I perform a complete
tune-up, on an older Briggs & Stratton engine, I usually perform a
professional valve job, too. I always include cleaning and lubricating the
ratchet starter clutch and recoil starter spring. I completely disassemble
the starter clutch, use a flat blade screwdriver to rotate a clean shop towel
through the center of the square part to remove any dirt and debris, and
if necessary, I use fine emery cloth to remove any scale from the stub shaft
on the crankshaft. Then I lightly lubricate the catch balls, the stub shaft
and felt filter with lightweight oil, such as 3-IN-ONE oil or automotive
power steering fluid (which is 10 weight hydraulic oil). This have always
worked very well and provided superior lubrication for many years to prevent
the clutch from squealing on the crankshaft, which a lot of times scared
the crap out of my customers. (Some customers told me their lawn mower is
possessed because of the squealing.)
If the starter clutch still squeals after a short time of running the engine
at full governed speed, remove the starter clutch, an lightly run a fine
tooth file around the stub shaft and then use fine emery cloth to polish
the shaft. And then again, rotate the clean shop towel inside the square
hub to ensure that it's absolutely clean. May need to run a 1/2" drill bit
inside the square hub to remove any burrs. Now place the square hub on the
shaft and rotate it by hand to check if that's any friction or binding. If
it rotates freely, lightly oil the shaft and inside the square hub. Don't
be too generous with the oil though, because some of it could run down between
the tapers and cause the flywheel key to shear.
How I Install a New Nylon Rope/String
in an Older Briggs & Stratton Recoil Starter with the Ratchet Type Clutch
- (Added 2/16/22) [Top of Page]
I fabricated a recoil spring wind-up tool from the square hub/ratchet out
of an old Briggs starter clutch with broken off ears. I welded a T-shape
handle to the ratchet and use it to easily and effortlessly wind up the spring
by hand. Then I clamp a small needle-nose Vise Grip pliers on the end of
the spring while I'm winding it inside the housing to guarantee the end will
not go inside the housing. (If this happens, I'll have to start all over.)
And with the recoil housing of the flywheel shroud lightly clamped in a bench
vise, once the spring is wind up and the hole in the starter pulley is aligned
with the starter housing grommet opening, to prevent the pulley from unwinding,
I drilled a 9/32" hole through the ratchet for a 1/4" steel rod to hold it
in place so I can feed the rope/string through the opening and into the pulley
and secure it with a double knot. And then I lubricate the spring with motor
oil through the oil hole in the pulley and pull the rope several times to
evenly distribute the oil and test the starter. (Work smarter, not
harder.)
How to clean the main jet in a 16hp/18hp flathead opposed twin cylinder
Briggs & Stratton engine -
The main jet is located in the float bowl of the carburetor. To access and
clean it...
-
If equipped, remove the hood of the tractor (they're easy to remove).
-
Remove the air cleaner/filter assembly. Be careful not to drop the screws
down inside the carburetor!
-
Remove the choke cable from the carburetor.
-
Remove the top of the carburetor.
-
Remove the hex plug on the side of the carburetor.
-
Use a
carburetor jet cleaner wire set or an
oxy-acetylene welding torch tip cleaner of the correct
size to clean out the hole (orifice) in the main jet. The hole (orifice)
in the main jet is accessed through where the hex plug is.
IMPORTANT: When cleaning the hole (orifice) in
the main jet, use a wire cleaner of the correct size, and be careful not
to enlarge the hole, or the engine may run too rich on fuel! This cannot
be undone!
-
Use 150± P.S.I. compressed air with an air blow gun nozzle to clear
out the hole (orifice) in the main jet and dirt/debris from the float bowl
area.
-
Reinstall everything in reverse order of removal.
Your engine should rev up without using the choke afterwards! This may have
to be done every few years because these type of carburetors are notorious
for having tiny particles of dirt/debris that passes through the fuel filter
settle at the bottom of the float bowl. The main jet is real close to the
bottom of the float bowl too, which allows dirt/debris to clog it over time.
Available Soon - Detailed Illustrated Plans on How
to Construct a Professional Pull-Back Garden Tractor Pulling Sled and a
Self-Propelled Garden Tractor/Small Wheel Mini Rod Pulling Sled (Weight Transfer
Machines) - (Updated 7/16/24) [Top of Page]
FYI - I'm getting closer to
completing my sled plans. But being I have lots of work to do in my shop,
I work on designing my sled plans in my spare time. As soon as my plans with
an inventory list of parts to use and with illustrations are perfected, I'll
post the announcement in my websites. And as for prices of the pull-back
sled and self-propelled sled plans, I'm not sure yet. Make me an offer and
I'll consider it. And remember - Perfection takes time. If it's worth having,
it's worth waiting for. It'll be money well spent. Contact
information below.
Quality-Built and Nice-Appearing Garden Tractor &
Mini Rod Self-Propelled Tractor Pulling Sleds (Weight Transfer Machines)
For Sale - (Updated 8/17/24) [Top of Page]
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Sleds will be built as orders are placed. A minimum 50% deposit
is required for all sled purchases. Buyer/purchaser can test sled with their
pulling tractors or vehicles on our 200 ft. dirt track, and then can tow
it on the road (like a trailer) or haul it on a large, sturdy trailer. Sleds
are designed with style and made beautiful to admire, and painted metallic
or color of your choice. Also, sleds are designed to start easy, pull smoothly
and sure to stop with grouser bar. They will also have a safety release lever
up front so when the weight box tops out and trips it, it will automatically
disengage the clutch to prevent major damage to the drive mechanism for the
weight box. And it will have another safety release lever at the rear in
case the clutch (for the weight box) is engaged when backing up the sled.
The self-propelled sleds will have a variable speed mechanical drive system
with hydraulics to lower the two front steering wheels/tires, and the bigger
sled will use hydraulics to bring the weight box back to its starting position.
By the way - the self-propelled garden tractor pulling sled that I built
in 1995 (and sold in 2021) is such an excellent design, I realized later
that I made something very special when other people copied it. It's still
in use today; click or tap photo of it to the right for a larger view.
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Small size, pull-back
(non-motorized) sled with open cabin and cooling fan, comfortable swivel
seat and controls within easy reach for operator. For use with 1,050 lb.
garden pulling tractors and up to 1,500 lb. small wheel (26-12.00x12 tires)
mini rod pulling tractors. Length of sled: 12 ft. Total weight of sled fully
loaded with weights: approximately 4,000 lb. $6,000.00 each.
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Small size, self-propelled (motorized) sled with open cabin and cooling fan,
windshield, comfortable swivel seat for operator comfort and controls within
easy reach for operator. Twin cylinder air-cooled small engine and transmission
will be positioned forward in sled with weight box drive transmission and
clutch system positioned rearward of sled. For use with 1,050 lb. garden
pulling tractors and up to 1,500 lb. small wheel (26-12.00x12 tires) mini
rod pulling tractors. Length of sled: 16 ft. Total weight of sled fully loaded
with weights: approximately 7,000 lb. $25,000.00 each.
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Medium size, self-propelled (motorized) sled with enclosed air-conditioned
cabin, comfortable swivel seat for operator comfort and controls within easy
reach for operator. Automotive engine (Chevy V8 with glasspack mufflers)
and transmissions will be positioned forward in sled with weight box drive
transmission and clutch system positioned rearward of sled. For use with
mini trucks, big wheel mini rods and antique/classic tractors. Length of
sled: 25 ft. Total weight of sled fully loaded with weights: approximately
18,000 lb. $250,000.00 each.
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Prices are subject to change without notice. If interested,
please contact me below. And remember - Perfection takes time. If it's
worth having, it's worth waiting for. It'll be money well spent.
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To place an order, send your item(s) for repairing, and/or
for customer service assistance, and FREE honest and accurate technical
support, please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises, 12091
N Route B, Hallsville, MO (Missouri) 65255-9604 USA. Please call in your
order or send an email with a list parts you need and your contact information.
Phone: 1-573-881-7229 (cell;
call, text or leave voicemail) or use
Whatsapp. Please call
Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone, except holidays. If no answer,
please try again later.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
Payment Options. A-1 Miller's shop is open
to the public Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone, with an appointment
on weekends, except holidays. If you're the kind of person who don't trust
delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's new shop (click
image to the right) to personally purchase parts, or drop off and/or pick
up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine and/or parts, etc., for repairing
and/or rebuilding. Or visit the address of our (old) shop mentioned above
to drop off your engine, transmission, transaxle, garden tractor, small motorized
vehicle, etc. We also custom build pulling tractors and other small vehicles.
Please contact me before coming so I'll be at my shop waiting for your arrival.
When you visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with the owner for
the best customer service. "The road to a [trusted] friend's house (or
shop) is never long." Don't sacrifice quality workmanship for distance.
Photos
of our new building/shop are posted here!
12091 N Route B, Hallsville, MO - Google Maps.
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Payment Options, and We Ship to Canada and
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Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent
by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged
item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service
Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal
Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S.
territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground
or equivalent services. We try to keep our shipping cost to customers within
reason. Therefore, we don't ship our products in a fancy-looking package
with our company name and/or logo on it because most customers will just
toss it in the trash after they remove the contents. And being there is no
USPS tracking number outside the US, all I can do is make sure I write your
address correctly on the customs form and on your package.
My websites are not set up to process orders and accept payments. Therefore,
to place an order with me, please call either number above or send an email
with a list of parts you need, with your name, complete and correct postal
mailing address and phone number. For payment options, I accept cash (in
person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard,
VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total amount for
the credit/debit card processor's surcharge). If paying with a credit/debit
card, please call me at either number above. Or to make a payment to me through
PayPal, please click this link:
https://www.paypal.com. Or use
Cash App (username: pullingtractor)
or Venmo (username: Pullingtractor) to make a payment to me. And be sure
to mention a description of what the payment is for with your full name,
postal address, phone number and email address. I also accept payments through
Western
Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram
Money Transfers. If sending a money order or cashier's check, please
include a note in the envelope with your name, complete mailing address,
phone number, email address and a description of what the payment is for.
I'll make a note of your order when I have all your information, and I may
have to order some of the parts on your list, which should take a few days
to come in, but I will send everything to you as soon as I have the parts
in stock after I receive your payment.
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