Improving and Modifying the
Steering for an IH Cub Cadet
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When building a garden tractor for pulling, it's best to remove and disassemble everything. Clean and inspect all the parts for wear, especially the steering parts. This is one area a lot of people overlook. Steering is very important and should never be neglected. Loose or worn steering parts can be dangerous. A puller may just tighten the steering box adjustments, inspect the tie rod ends and that's it. But there's more to it than just making adjustments...
Replace that worn, cracked (and not to mention boring)
OEM steering wheel with a beautiful, automotive-style, small diameter
(10" or 12") custom steering wheel! They improve the overall appearance of
the whole tractor and are available at most auto parts supply stores and
on eBay. To install a custom, automotive-style steering wheel on a Cub Cadet
or virtually any garden tractor...
-
To remove the steering wheel from a Cub Cadet or virtually
any garden tractor, install the retaining nut 90% on the threads of the steering
shaft and give the nut a short blast with an air chisel. If that won't work,
use a bearing separator with a steering wheel puller or an automotive harmonic
balancer/vibration damper puller tool, and to save the old steering wheel,
make sure the jaws of a gear puller won't break or crack the plastic. The
splined hub may have to be heated with a torch to get it off the shaft. Be
careful not to damage the shaft though!
DO NOT HAMMER
ON THE SHAFT TO REMOVE THE STEERING WHEEL! This could cause the internal
threads in the lower part of the aluminum steering box to split (crack the
case) or the box might break later, which could be very dangerous in pulling
because the tractor could go out of control.
- Acquire an automotive custom steering wheel installation adapter kit that's available from virtually any automotive parts supply store. The only steering wheel hub adapter I found that fits close on a Cub Cadet steering shaft is made for most General Motors cars and trucks from 1949 to 1994 without telescopic steering. The GM adapter has the correct diameter, but the splines are not a perfect fit, so it will need to be lightly tapped onto the Cub Cadet shaft. Or, the center [splined] hub from an old GM steering wheel can also be used on a Cub Cadet. But the three small holes in the hub will need to be enlarged and tapped for a 1/4" bolt for installation of a custom steering wheel. Or if you don't want to use the GM adapter, the splined hub from an old Cub Cadet steering wheel with a large flat washer welded to it can be used.
- Fasten the steering wheel to the washer or adapter, but first make sure that the front tires are pointing forward and the steering wheel is in the straight ahead position.
- Install some stainless steel acorn nuts as fasteners for a nice, clean (rust-proof) and professional look.
- Or, instead of installing acorn nuts, install a chrome-plated horn button. To do so, machine a large flat washer in the metal lathe so it'll be slightly larger than the inside diameter of the horn button. Fasten the washer in the steering wheel with a couple of stacked smaller flat washers under the large washer. Snap the horn button onto the washer and that's it!
The steering boxes, inside and outside parts, are the same on all models of the IH and MTD Cub Cadets. The only difference is, the steering column/shaft tilts on the MTD models.
How To Fix Loose or "Sloppy" Steering Parts -
To improve the steering on an IH Cub Cadet, is to remove, disassemble, clean, inspect, repair as necessary, reassemble, adjust, then lubricate the steering box unit through the grease fitting. By the way - adjustments are made much easier with the unit out of the tractor.
Don't Be A Slob When Rebuilding A Steering Unit!
Always be professional whenever building or rebuilding anything! Before reassembling a steering unit, always take the time to provide a neat and absolutely clean work environment. Make sure that your tools, shop/business towels, steering parts and hands are clean, too. Don't allow any dust or dirt to enter the work bench or table, including the steering box and it's parts. If necessary, place the parts on a large, clean cloth or cardboard to keep them clean and organized until they're ready to be installed. The reason everything should be kept as clean as possible is because even the smallest bit of dirt inside a steering box will "grind away" at the internal parts, causing unnecessary wear.
How to remove the steering box/column unit from the tractor -
- Disconnect the battery.
- Remove the steering wheel. Despite how rusted-on or stuck-in-place it may be, the OEM steering wheel MUST come off before the steering box can be removed from the tractor.
- Remove the mower deck (if equipped).
- Remove the tie-rod end that's connected to the pitman arm plate (steering lever).
- Remove the two 9/16" bolts that fastens the steering box to the cross-member of the frame.
- The steering unit then slides out from under the tractor.
How to disassemble the steering unit -
-
Remove the pitman arm plate and shaft.
- Remove the cotter pin from the end cap.
- Remove the end cap with a large flat screwdriver or flat ratchet tool by turning it counterclockwise.
- Pull or slide the shaft out of the steering box. Use caution not to lose any of the ball bearings!
- Clean and inspect everything. Observe the metal bearing retainers for cracks or breakage. Replace if necessary.
How to reassemble the steering unit -
- Install the ball bearings in the plastic retainers. Apply some grease on the balls so they'll stay in place upon installation.
- Install the bearings on the shaft with the metal retainers to hold them in place.
- Carefully slide the shaft through the steering box and column until it's bottomed out. Make sure no ball bearings have fallen out of their retainers.
- Install the end cap, and tighten it until it's bottomed out. Rotate the shaft to make sure that no looseness or binding occurs.
- If the shaft feels like it's somewhat hard to rotate, back the end cap off until one of the notches match the hole, and then install the cotter pin. Back off the end cap slightly more so the notch will be snug against the cotter pin. Rotate the shaft again to make sure that no looseness or binding occurs.
- Pump some fresh grease (automotive chassis lube) in the steering box and on the steering gear. Fill it up with grease.
- If it isn't already installed, install the steering pin and locknut in the pitman arm plate (steering lever).
- Install the pitman arm plate and shaft, flat thrush washer and adjusting nut.
- Tighten down the adjusting nut until it's bottomed out and back it off an 1/8 of a turn. Install the lock nut and tighten it against the adjusting nut.
- Tighten down the steering pin until it's bottomed out and back it off about an 1/8 of a turn.
- Rotate the shaft all the way one way and the other. If binding occurs or if it feels a little too loose, adjust the steering pin until it feels satisfactory. But make the adjustments so the steering is a little "stiff." Because somehow, it will loosen up again somewhat overtime. Install the locknut.
- Pump a few ounces of fresh chassis lube through the grease fitting to make sure the unit is absolutely full.
- That's it! The steering unit is now fully assembled, lubricated and adjusted!
NOTE: Of all the IH Cub Cadet steering boxes that I've rebuilt, hardly any
of them required new parts. But if you do need new internal parts, you can
get them at virtually any Cub Cadet dealer or at most
John Deere lawn & garden service centers and parts
stores. (JD charges a lot less than most Cub Cadet dealers.) Just tell them
that you have a John Deere model 110, 112, 120, 140, 200, 210, 212, 214,
216, 300, 312, 316 or 317. The steering box in these tractors, which is made
by Ross, are very similar to the ones used in the IH Cub Cadets, except for
the mounting holes. The internal parts are the same. Most replacement parts
that's needed are as follows:
- Bearing kit, which includes the bearings, retainers and cups. The John Deere part number is AM31924.
- The steering pin (stud). This part rides in the spiral groove of the worm gear. It has either 1/2-20 NF or 9/16-18 threads, has a straight screwdriver slot in one end, is rounded on the other end, mounts in the pitman arm and a jam nut secures it in place. I don't know the John Deere part number for the 1/2" stud, but the number for the 9/16" stud is M45567, which fits the CCC's, 982's and newer models. This particular part is no longer available from Cub Cadet. See below how to fabricate your own pin. Ê
- Plastic support bushing for the upper part the column, just under the steering wheel. The John Deere part number is M43743.
- If you ever get a stubborn-to-remove bottom plug, and it gets damaged upon removal, the John Deere part number for this part is M43745.
-
And remember, nothing may run like a Deere, but nothing pulls like a Cub
Cadet!
- Go here if you need part numbers and/or parts for the Cub Cadet steering unit: Steering parts for the Cub Cadet model 100. NOTE: Some parts are no longer available for these units!
How to Fix a Worn Steering Pin -
Regrind the end of the OEM steering pin until it's conical-shaped again,
or fabricate a new pin from a 1/2"-20 fine thread grade 8 bolt.
Ever had the steering column (long tube) get pulled out of the steering box on a Cub Cadet? Well, doing the below will guarantee that it will never get pulled out again -
- Remove the steering box/column assembly from the tractor.
-
If the tube fits somewhat loose
in the steering box, it can be expanded with use of an automotive exhaust
pipe expander/spreader tool. (Available at virtually any auto parts store
and on eBay.)
- Apply Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant (or Loctite® Threadlocker Red 271™ or Permatex® Red Threadlocker) on the tube to prevent water and dirt from entering the steering box and then install it in the box until it bottoms out.
- Drill four 1/8" holes spaced 90° apart through the steering box and into the tube.
- Install 1/8" diameter x 3/8" long pop-rivets to permanently secure the tube to the steering box.
NOTE: If the upper part of the steering tube becomes damaged from removing the steering wheel, it can be straightened back to its original shape with the automotive exhaust pipe expander/spreader tool and a medium size hammer. The internal steering shaft must be removed, so the tool will work.
For more information on how to rebuild a Cub Cadet steering box unit, please see this web site: http://www.ihcubcadet.com/IHCCFAQ/SteeringBox.htm. If you're looking for a steering assembly or a steering part for your garden tractor, look in our advertisement web site or you can place a want ad in the same site.
Advertisement:
If you're interested in the item or service listed below, please contact
A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia,
MO 65203-9136 USA |  Phone:
1-573-875-4033. Please call Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time. If no
answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient
because I stutter.)  Fax:
1-573-449-7347.  E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. You can
also contact us through Yahoo! Messenger:
Rebuilt IH Cub Cadet Steering Box Assemblies. (All IH Cub Cadets, except the Original, use the same steering box assembly.) $150.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Steering Box Assembly Rebuild
Service. I disassemble the entire steering unit. Then I clean and inspect
all parts and replace anything that's excessively worn. Then I reassemble
it, adjust it and lubricate it so it'll provide many more years of trouble-free
service. $35.00 minimum labor. New parts, if needed, are extra charge.
New Cam Follower Stud (Steering
Pin). $20.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Fixing Worn Tie Rod Ends -
-
Remove the tie rod from the tractor.
- Thread a grade 8, 3/8" fine thread bolt into the tie rod and clamp the bolt in a bench vise.
- With the base of the tie rod resting on the jaws of the vise (to prevent bending the bolt), pound the end of the tie rod with a medium size hammer until the ball is snug in the socket.
- Lubricate the ball with ordinary motor oil.
- Reinstall on tractor, adjust toe-in.
NOTE: If a tie rod end is worn badly and you have doubt that it may fail in the future, by all means, replace it with a known good used one or a new one. Actually, it's best to use aircraft-quality ball-joint ends with a flat washer installed.
Advertisement:
| If you need some new, heat treated OEM-quality tie-rod or aircraft-quality
ball joint ends, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501
W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-875-4033. Please
call Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time. If no answer, please try again
later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. You can
also contact us through Yahoo! Messenger:
New, Heat-Treated Tie Rod and Ball Joint Ends - Here's the most common for direct replacements found on most lawn & garden tractors:
|
OEM-quality tie rod end
with rubber dust seal. Has a 3/8-24 NF stud and 3/8-24 NF right-hand
thread hole. Works great for general yard work and stock pulling
tractors. Replaces Cub Cadet part # 923-3018. $5.00 each, plus
shipping & handling.
Rubber Dust/Dirt Shields for
Heim Joints above. These rod end seals are a neoprene rubber seal bonded
to an aircraft quality washer. Extends the life of rod ends by keeping the
dirt, debris and moisture out of the spherical ball. They fit on both sides
of the ball end of the heim joint and are sized to match the hole in the
spherical ball. Available in 3/16" i.d. x 7/16" o.d., 1/4" i.d. x 1/2" o.d.,
5/16" i.d. x 11/16" o.d., 3/8" i.d. x 13/16" o.d., 7/16" i.d. x 7/8" o.d.,
1/2" i.d. x 1-1/8" o.d., 5/8" i.d. x 1-1/4" o.d., 3/4" i.d. x 1-3/8" o.d.
and 1" i.d. x 2-1/8" o.d. $15.00 per pair, plus shipping & handling.
Fixing a Loose Fitting Drag Link Arm -125, 127 & 147
To fix a
loose fitting drag link arm on the narrow frame Cub Cadets (models
70,
71,
72,
73,
100,
102,
104, 105,
106, 107,
122, 123,
124, 125,
126 and 147),
the hub must be "clamped" to the spindle. To do this...
- Remove the drag link arm from the spindle.
- Use a hacksaw to cut a couple of slots in the hub 90° in relation to the roll-pin holes. Cut the slots about 90% down into the hub.
- Place the arm on the spindle and drill through all three (roll-pin) holes with a 3/8" drill bit.
- Acquire a hardened (grade 8) 3/8" bolt, split lock washer and hardened (grade 8) nut. Make sure the bolt has an unthreaded (shouldered) portion the same width as the diameter of the hub.
- Install the bolt in the hub and spindle and then torque the nut to 35 ft. lbs. so the hub is squeezed onto the spindle. NOTE: clamping the hub may weaken the factory spot weld. Therefore, the hub may need to be re-welded to the arm.
Advertisement:
 If you need some heavy duty 3/8" replacement spiral (or
coiled) roll-pins for your 3-pin clutch drive plate or drag link arm and
spindle (the holes in the drag link arm and spindle will need to be drilled
to 3/8" for the roll pin to fit), please contact A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-875-4033. Please
call Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time. If no answer, please try again
later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. You can
also contact us through Yahoo! Messenger:
|
How
to lengthen the drag link (the steering link that connects the steering box
to the front axle) when moving the front axle forward:
- Measure the distance that the front axle has been moved forward. Make a note of the measurement.
- Center the steering wheel (pitman arm) and then remove the drag link. IH Cub Cadets have a 1.75:1 steering ratio. To find the center, place a mark (masking tape) on the steering wheel. Then rotate it one way to the extreme. Then return it with the mark being halfway.
- Measure the distance between the end of each tie rod or ball joint bolt hole. This is important! Make a note of this measurement.
- Cut the drag link in half.
- Get some 1/2" i.d. x 5/8" o.d. steel tubing of adequate length. But get about 6" more than the measurement. This is important!
- Slip each cut end of the drag link rod inside the tubing. For strength and durability, make sure there's at least 3" of the rod inside the tubing. The rod may have to be ground down and/or pressed in.
- Adjust the overall length of the lengthened drag link so it'll now have the added difference of how far the axle has been moved forward.
- Weld it together, grind the weld smooth, paint and that's it!
OR, for a professional look...
- Acquire some 3" long fine thread 3/8" diameter bolts and a long piece of 3/8" i.d. x 1/2" o.d. steel tubing.
- Cut the heads off the bolts and bevel the end (grind smooth), thread the bolts halfway into each tie rod or ball joint end, then place the ends in the drag link arm and pitman arm lever.
- Center the front tires and the steering wheel.
- Measure the distance between the tie rod or ball joint ends halfway on the unthreaded end of the bolts.
- Measure and cut off a piece of the steel tubing, then slip the bolts inside the tubing.
- Measure again, then weld the tubing to the bolts.
- Install a jam nut on each bolt to prevent the tubing from turning.
- Grind the weld smooth, paint and that's it!
If the center hole in an axle is worn, this can be repaired by first boring the hole for a press-fit steel sleeve and then bore the sleeve so a new center pin (or grade 8 or stainless steel bolt) will fit snug in it. Or, you can also bore the hole in the axle and support bracket with a 20 millimeter diameter (equal to .7874") drill bit or reamer and install a hardened 20 mm bolt. It'll be a lot less work to do just do this.
And to fix the worn holes for the spindles in the axle itself on a narrow frame Cub Cadet, the holes will need to be bored or reamed out and a couple of bronze bushings installed for each side.
Reinforcing the Steering
Spindles on Narrow Frame Cub Cadets -
If you've seen the front tires on the narrow frame Cub Cadets (models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126 and 147) that look "dilapidated" (the top of the tires tilt inward from doing too many ground-pounding wheelies), this means that the steering spindles are bent and weren't reinforced. To prevent the spindles from getting bent...
- Straighten the spindles in a hydraulic press if they need it. (Set them so the top of the tires will tilt somewhat outward for that "tough" look.)
- Weld a 1/4" x 3/4" x 1-3/4" piece of steel (brace) in the bend section.
How to Lower the Front
End 2-1/2" on a Wide- or Spread-Frame Cub Cadet -
- Fabricate a couple of mild steel 3/4" diameter x 3-1/4" long spindle shafts. Bore a 3/8-16 NC threaded hole in the end of each shaft for the wheel retaining bolt and washer.
- Remove the steering knuckles from the axle.
- Cut off the original spindle shafts flush with the steering knuckle.
- Locate to the extreme upper part on each steering knuckle where to weld the new spindle shafts.
- Drill a 3/4" hole in each steering knuckle to mount the replacement spindle shafts.
- Install the replacement spindle shafts in the 3/4" holes 1/4" deep, and securely weld the shafts to the steering knuckles on the front and backside for strength. Make sure the shafts are perpendicular (90°) to the flat on the steering knuckles first!
- Install the steering knuckles on the axle and the tires, and check to see that the tires are positioned parallel with the ground so they set straight.
- If necessary, adjust toe-in.
Advertisement:
| If you're interested in any of the parts or services below,
please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd.
| Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-875-4033. Please
call Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time. If no answer, please try again
later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. You can
also contact us through Yahoo! Messenger:
|
||
Do-it-yourself weld-in spindle shafts to lower front end as much as 2-3/8" on wide and spread frame Cub Cadets. NOTE: To install, cut off old shafts and drill a 3/4" hole 2-3/8" higher than original shafts in steering knuckles. Replacement shafts will need to be positioned perpendicular (90°) to the flat and then weld to backside of knuckle for non-interference with the spacing of the wheel. Has 3/8-16 NC threaded hole in end of each shaft for wheel retaining bolt/washer (not included). Machined from hardened grade 5 bolts. $30.00 per set of two, plus shipping & handling. |
Installation Service: Lower spindle shafts as much as 2-3/8" on steering knuckles for wide or spread frame Cub Cadets. $50.00 parts and labor for two spindles, plus return shipping & handling. |
Installation Service: Weld brace to reinforce spindle shafts for your narrow frame Cub Cadet: $25.00 parts and labor for two spindles, plus return shipping & handling. |
A Pivoting Axle Vs. a Solid-Mounted Axle for Pulling Competition?
I've seen modified garden tractors with a swivel front axle and I've seen some modifieds with a solid-mounted axle. And I noticed that one doesn't pull any better than the other. So it seems it's just the pullers' preference if he or she wants a swivel or solid front axle. And about the only way to fix the looseness of the center pivoting pin hole is to have the axle bored for installation of thin wall bronze bushings, like the ones used for king pins in truck front axles.
How to Repair Worn Pivot Pin Holes for the Front Axle -
Sometimes the pivoting pin in the center of the front axle will rust in place and then the pin will pivot in the holes in the support braces. When this happens, overtime the holes will become oblong and the axle will become unstable, causing sloppy steering. Well, to repair a tractor with worn pivot holes like the ones in the picture below...
- Drill or ream the holes in the braces to exactly 1.000".
- Fabricate a steel reducer sleeve bushing (spacer) that measures 3/4" i.d. x 1.003" o.d. for a press-fit.
- Press each bushing in the holes of the braces. Make sure the bushings are aligned properly so the pin will rotate freely to prevent binding.
- Tack weld the edge of each bushing on the outside of the braces.
- The center line of the OEM hole in the bracket is 1-1/8" from the frame. But this will be altered due to the offset of the bushing.
Advertisement:
If you need any of the items listed below for your garden tractor, please
contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia,
MO 65203-9136 USA |
Phone:
1-573-875-4033. Please call Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time. If no
answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient
because I stutter.) Fax:
1-573-449-7347. E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. You can
also contact us through Yahoo! Messenger:
|
Heavy duty, flanged upper steering shaft/column bushings and bearing for virtually all Cub Cadets, John Deere and other makes & models of garden tractors. When ordering, please specify which part you need.
 Bronze. For models with
metal cap on steering column. 3/4" i.d. x 1.003" o.d. x 3/4" height x 1-1/4"
o.d. flange. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
 Graphite. For models without
metal cap on steering column. 3/4" i.d. x 1-3/8" o.d. x 9/16" width x 1-1/2"
o.d. flange. (Same as wheel bushing below.) $3.50 each, plus shipping
& handling. |
 Sealed (both sides) w/grease
ball bearing flanged bearing. For models without metal cap on steering column.
Makes steering MUCH easier! These have hardened, heated-treated steel
races and roller balls inside and are pre-packed with grease so they will
last longer. Size: 3/4" i.d. x 1-3/8" o.d. x 1/2" width x 1-1/2" o.d.
flange. (Same as heavy duty wheel bearing to the right.) $6.00 each,
plus shipping & handling. Part # 150-020 |
Front Wheel Bushings and Bearings
| Wheel Bushing
-
Heavy duty, low speed (up to 5 mph), oil-impregnated metal graphite flange wheel bushing. Oil impregnated means the hardened metal is porous to absorb oil and grease so it will last longer. The oil acts as a cushion between the bearing and shaft, adding resistance to wear. These last a long time as long as they're lubricated with grease (chassis lube) regularly. If there is no grease fitting in the hub of the wheel, then one will need to be installed. Universal fit. Dimensions: 3/4" i.d. x 1-3/8" o.d. x 9/16" width (1/2" fits inside the wheel hub), flange o.d. is 1-1/2". $3.50 each, plus shipping & handling. Our part # 09-3305-3/4 |
|
| Wheel Bushing
-
Heavy duty, low speed (up to 5 mph), oil-impregnated metal graphite flange wheel bushing for Cub Cadets with 3/4" diameter front spindles and wheels with 1-3/8" inside diameter. Oil impregnated means the hardened metal is porous to absorb oil and grease so it will last longer. The oil acts as a cushion between the bearing and shaft, adding resistance to wear. These last a long time as long as they're lubricated with grease (chassis lube) once a year. If there is no grease fitting in the hub of the wheel, then one will need to be installed. Universal fit. Dimensions: 3/4" i.d. x 1-3/8" o.d. x 9/16" width (1/2" fits inside the wheel hub), flange o.d. is 1-1/2". Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-384881-R94. $3.50 each, plus shipping & handling. Our part # 09-3305-3/4 |
|
 Wheel Bushing
-
Heavy duty, low speed (up to 5 mph), oil-impregnated metal graphite flange wheel bushing for Cub Cadets with 1" diameter front spindles and wheels with 1-3/8" inside diameter. Dimensions: 1" i.d. x 1-3/8" o.d. x 1" width. These are the same as above except I bore them to 1" in my metal lathe. $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
|
| Wheel Bearing
-
Heavy duty, low speed (up to 20 mph), sealed (both sides) w/grease ball bearing flange front wheel bearing. These have hardened, heated-treated steel races and roller balls inside and are pre-packed with grease so they will last longer. Dimensions: 3/4" i.d. x 1-3/8" o.d. x 1/2" width (3/8" fits inside wheel hub) x 1-1/2" o.d. flange. Universal fit for many makes and models of garden tractors. Will hold up to a lot of weight and rough abuse. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-384881-R94. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Our part # 150-020 |
|
 Wheel Bearing
-
Heavy duty, low speed (up to 20 mph), sealed (both sides) ball bearing flange front wheel bearing. These have hardened, heated-treated steel races and roller balls inside and are pre-packed with grease so they will last a long time. Dimensions: 1" i.d. x 2" o.d. x 9/16" width (1/2" fits inside wheel hub), flange o.d. is 2-1/8". Universal fit. Will hold up to a lot of weight and rough abuse. Replaces Cub Cadet part # 941-3002. $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Our part # 150-023 |
|
 New insert bearing
with eccentric locking collar. 1" i.d. x 2.04" o.d. Fits all IH Cub Cadets
with mechanical PTO clutch. Part # 150-545. $15.00 each, plus shipping
& handling. |
|
| Other sizes and styles of bearings and bushings are available. Please let me know what you need and I can probably get it for you at a reasonable price. |
Wheelie Bar Wheels and Front Wheels
Plastic Wheelie Bar Wheels with spherical (rounded) tread surface. Dimensions: 5" tall x 2" wide x 5/8" center hole. $8.00 per pair, plus shipping & handling. Part # 07-11819 |
4" Two-Piece, Bolt-Together Steel Wheel. Painted white. Dimensions: 4" diameter x 2-1/2" wide x 2-1/8" width centered hub. Use with inner tube. Less bearings. Two wheels weighs 3 lb. 8 oz. $21.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
5" Two-Piece, Bolt-Together Steel Wheel. Painted white. Dimensions: 5" diameter x 2-3/4" wide x 2-1/4" centered hub. Use with inner tube. Less bearings. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
6" Two-Piece, Bolt-Together Steel Wheel. Painted white. Dimensions: 6" diameter x 3-1/4" wide x 3-1/2" width centered hub. Use with inner tube. Less bearings. Two wheels weighs 5 lb. 4 oz. $30.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
Wheel Studs, Chrome Lug Nuts and Wheel Spacers
 7/16-20 NF x 1-1/2" long (thread length) hardened steel screw-in studs for easier mounting of wheels on rear axle flanges. Made in USA  NOTE: Not for tractors with
external brake disc welded to axle.
|
 7/16-20 NF hardened steel screw-in studs for easy mounting of wheels on rear axle flanges with external disc/axle brakes. Made in USA Each set includes 10 studs
and 10 jam nuts.
|
 7/16-20 NF x 1"
long (thread length) press-in automotive wheel studs for easier mounting
of wheels on rear axle flanges. Made in USA
by Dorman. NOTE: Requires
27/64" (.422") mounting holes in flange (fine spline axles). Not for tractors
with external brake disc welded to axle. $25.00 per set of 10,
plus shipping & handling. |
|
 7/16-20 NF open-end zinc-plated
lug/wheel nuts for steel wheels. NOTE: The mounting holes in steel wheels
will need to be drilled (enlarged) to 21/32" diameter, to allow these lug
nuts to seat properly, stay tight and keep the wheel centered.
$20.00 per set of 10, plus shipping. |
 7/16-20 NF closed-end chrome
acorn lug/wheel nuts for steel wheels. NOTE: The mounting holes in wheels
will need to be drilled (enlarged) to 21/32" diameter, to allow these lug
nuts to seat properly, stay tight and keep the wheel centered.
$25.00 per set of 10, plus shipping. |
Linked pages to our parts & services:
A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises |
Engine Rebuild Parts, Engine Rebuilds, Build-ups, Exhaust Header Pipe Kits & Machine Shop Services |
Transmission, Transaxle Parts, Rebuilds & Machine Shop Services |
|
Ignition, Electrical and Crank Trigger Electronic Ignition Parts and Kits |
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