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How to Repair, Improve and Modify
the Steering on a Cub Cadet and Other Makes and Models of Garden Tractors
Serving the Small Engine, Lawn & Garden, and Garden Tractor Pulling
Community Since 1996. Where Science and Common Sense Come Together for Safety
and Improved Engine/Tractor Performance
A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises
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When building a garden tractor for pulling, it's best to remove and disassemble everything. (This is much easier to do on a platform work table.) Clean and inspect all the parts for wear, especially the steering parts. This is one area a lot of people overlook. Steering is very important, especially in pulling, and should never be overlooked or neglected. Loose or worn steering parts can be dangerous. A puller may just tighten the steering box adjustments, inspect the tie rod ends and that's it. But there's more to it than just making proper adjustments...
How to Remove the Steering Wheel from a Cub Cadet or Virtually Any Garden Tractor with a ROSS Steering Assembly - There are several ways to remove the steering wheel from a Cub Cadet or virtually any garden tractor with the ROSS steering assembly.
DO NOT STRIKE THE SPLINED END OF THE STEERING
SHAFT WITH A BIG HAMMER IN AN ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THE STEERING
WHEEL! Doing this could cause the internal threads in
the lower part of the cast aluminum steering box housing to split and crack
the case or break off entirely. Or if the housing is cracked, the bottom
of the steering box could break off entirely later, which would be dangerous
because the tractor could go out of control, especially when pulling on the
track.
To prevent damage to the threads on the steering shaft, install an ordinary length 5/8-18 UNF nut on the shaft threaded down until flush with the end of the threads, and while pulling upward on the steering wheel with your hands (assistance/help may be needed), give the nut a short blast with an air chisel. Do not use the short OEM steering wheel retaining jam nut because threads on the shaft may become damaged. AND DO NOT USE A BIG HAMMER! If the end of the steering shaft was hammered on without the nut installed in an effort to remove the steering wheel, which caused the threads to become flared-out or "mushroomed", well, there two ways to fix this... (A-1 Miller's provides this repair service, too.)
The easy way to fix this is...
Use a
hacksaw or
reciprocating saw (also known as a
saw-saw) to cut the damaged threads off the steering shaft
next to the splines.
The more complicated way to fix this and retain the OEM look of the stud with the retaining nut is...
Remove the steering shaft from
the steering box assembly.
Use either a
steering wheel puller (with bolts) or an
automotive harmonic balancer/vibration damper puller (with
bolts) and a
bearing separator, or use only a
3-jaw gear puller to "pull" the steering wheel off the
shaft. To prevent damage to the steering wheel, make sure the jaws of a gear
puller won't break or crack the plastic around the hub.
As the last resort, if the steering
shaft itself must be literary cut-off with a
hacksaw or
reciprocating saw (also known as a
saw-saw), just under the steering wheel, the splined part
of the shaft can be replaced with the steering shaft (that's in good condition)
out of a 1949 to 1994 GM car or truck. Only a short section of the splined
end of the shaft will need to be used. The GM shaft next to the splines will
need to be machined down fit inside the Cub Cadet [hollow] steering shaft,
then the GM shaft can be pressed inside the ROSS shaft with an 1/8" gap.
Fill in the gap with welding around where the two shafts meet. The lump of
weld will need to be either machined down (in a metal lathe; for use of a
solid metal bushing) or ground down (with a hand grinder for use of a ball
bearing) so the upper bushing or bearing will slide on the shaft. Installation
of the steering wheel and hub adapter are explained below
Ê.
Replace
that worn, cracked (and not to mention unsightly and boring/plain looking)
OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) steering wheel with an attractive,
small diameter (10" or 12") automotive-style/hot rod
custom steering wheel or a
chrome spoke steering wheel! A custom or chrome spoke steering
wheel will, without a doubt, improve the overall appearance of the entire
tractor.
To adapt a custom steering wheel
to the steering shaft, and if the splines and threads on the steering shaft
are in good condition, the only automotive custom steering wheel installation
adapter kit I found that fits close on a Cub Cadet splined steering shaft
is an aftermarket early GM steering wheel hub adapter kit
(Grant part # 3196) made for most General Motors cars and
trucks from 1949 to 1994 without telescopic steering. Leave out the horn
switch plate and install multiple flat washers on the supplied steering wheel
mounting bolts so the steering wheel will be tight against the hub. Use the
OEM Cub Cadet steering wheel retaining nut or a 5/8-18 UNF nut with a flat
washer to secure the steering wheel and hub to the steering shaft. The GM
adapter center spline has the correct diameter, but the number of splines
are not a perfect fit, so it will need to be gently tapped onto the Cub Cadet
steering shaft. Or the center splined hub from a 1949 to 1994 OEM GM steering
wheel can be used instead. But the three small holes in the hub will need
to be enlarged and tapped for three 1/4" bolts for installation of the custom
steering wheel. Or if you don't want to use the GM adapter, the splined hub
from an old Cub Cadet steering wheel with the spokes cut off, and a large
flat washer (with three tapped 1/4" bolt holes for installation of the custom
steering wheel) welded to the adapter can be used. Once the steering wheel
is removed, position the front tires forward, fasten the splined adapter
on the steering shaft (with the choice of hardware listed below
Ê), then fasten the steering wheel with
the adapter facing in the straight ahead position. For easier installation
of nut (and easier removal of steering wheel), use a 5/8-18 UNF
threading die (and
handle/wrench) to clean/straighten damaged threads on shaft,
apply
anti-seize compound/lubricant on threads (including
splines inside steering wheel and on shaft), then torque nut to 65 ft. lb.
Install the three 1/4" bolts
from the bottom up, install the steering wheel, then install
stainless steel acorn nuts with a split lock washer to
the bolts (studs) to fasten the steering wheel for a nice looking and
(rust-proof) professional look. Then to hide the (unsightly) large center
retaining nut, install a 15/16"
stainless steel lug nut cover. These are made for semi
tractor-trailers, which are available at most truck stops and on eBay. Or,
to hide the three bolts and retaining nut, install a
chrome-plated universal custom
automotive horn button (center cap). To do this, machine a large flat washer
in a metal lathe so the washer will be slightly larger than the inside diameter
of the horn button. Fasten the washer in the steering wheel to the three
1/4" bolts with a couple of stacked smaller flat washers under the large
washer. Snap the horn button onto the washer and that's it! Snap the horn
button onto the washer and that's it!
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How To Fix Loose or "Sloppy" Steering Parts -
To improve the steering on an IH Cub Cadet, is to remove, disassemble, clean, inspect, repair as necessary, reassemble, adjust, then lubricate the steering box unit with automotive grease through the Zerk grease fitting. By the way - adjustments are made much easier with the steering Box Assembly out of the tractor.
Don't Be A Slob When Rebuilding A Steering Unit!
Always be professional whenever building or rebuilding anything! Before reassembling a steering unit, always take the time to provide a neat and absolutely clean work environment. Make sure that your tools, shop/business towels, steering parts and hands are clean, too. Don't allow any dust or dirt to enter the work bench or table, including the steering box and it's parts. If necessary, place the parts on a large, clean cloth or cardboard to keep them clean and organized until they're ready to be installed. The reason everything should be kept as clean as possible is because even the smallest bit of dirt inside a steering box will "grind away" at the internal parts, causing unnecessary wear.
How to remove the steering box/column unit from the tractor - (This is much easier to do on a platform work table.)
How to disassemble the steering unit -
How to reassemble the steering unit -
NOTE: If new internal steering box parts are needed in a rebuild, you can get them at virtually any Cub Cadet dealer. Most John Deere lawn & garden service centers and parts stores offers the same parts for the steering box in their models 110, 112, 120, 140, 200, 210, 212, 214, 216, 300, 312, 316 and 317. The steering box in these tractors, which is made by ROSS, are very similar to the ones used in the IH Cub Cadet, except for the mounting holes. The internal parts are basically the same, but new John Deere parts are more expensive than new Cub Cadet parts.
Ever had the steering column (long tube) get pulled out of the steering box on a Cub Cadet? Well, doing the below Ê will guarantee that it will never get pulled out again -
automotive exhaust pipe expander/spreader tool. (Available
at virtually any auto parts store and on eBay.)
NOTE: If the upper part of the steering tube becomes damaged from removing the steering wheel, it can be straightened back to its original shape with the automotive exhaust pipe expander/spreader tool and a 2-3 lb. hammer. The internal steering shaft must be removed, so the tool will work.
How to "Tighten" a Worn Tie Rod End -
If a tie rod end is badly worn and performing
the above È doesn't "tighten" it, and
you have doubts that it may fail in the future, then by all means, replace
it with a known good used one or a new one. Actually, for heavy lawn and
garden use or for a pulling tractor, it's best to use aircraft-quality ball-joint
ends (Heim joints) with a flat washer and rubber dust/dirt shields installed.
Advertisement: (Prices are subject to change without notice.)
If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed
in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501
W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO
(Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | 
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving
a voice message, please speak slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday,
except holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try
again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I
stutter.)
E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.
When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing
directly with the owner for the best customer
service. A-1 Miller's shop is open
to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please
call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine parts, entire
engine, transaxle, transmission, entire garden tractor, etc. for rebuilding
and/or repairing, or to purchase parts. "The road to a friend's house (or
shop) is never long." (We're planning to relocate our business our business
to other property with a bigger and better shop so we can hire more help
and provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
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 3/8" Diameter x 1-1/2"
length Spiral Pins for OEM 3-pin clutch drive plate and [narrow frame
Cub Cadet] drag link steering arm. Hardened carbon steel. Minimum Rockwell
hardness is C42. NOTE: The holes in the drag link arm and spindle may
need to be drilled exactly to 3/8" (.375") for this pin to fit.
$3.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
A-1 Miller's Professional
Repair Service - Professionally Weld Crack in ROSS (Cub Cadet, John Deere,
etc.) Steering Box to Retain Original Strength and Integrity.
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 A-1 Miller's Professional
Rebuild/Repair Service for ROSS Steering Box/Column Assemblies for IH
Cub Cadet "Original", IH- and MTD-built Cub Cadet, Ford LGT, Jacobsen, John
Deere, Massey Ferguson, MTD Farm King, Snapper, Wheel Horse and various other
makes and models of garden tractors with the CCC or ROSS aluminum
housing manual steering box. Services include: Completely disassemble steering
box assembly, clean and inspect all parts for wear, repair or replace any
part that's worn, reassemble, lubricate, then make necessary adjustments
until steering works smoothly so it'll provide many more years of trouble-free
service. $50.00± labor + extra charge for replacement parts,
plus return shipping & handling.
FOR SALE: Professionally Rebuilt IH Cub Cadet "Original" and Cub Lo-Boy ROSS Steering Box/Column Assembly.
FOR SALE: Professionally Rebuilt IH Cub Cadet ROSS Steering Box/Column Assemblies.
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 "Easy
Steer" Upgrade Kits. Provides easier steering with slightly less
effort, especially with a front end loader bucket. Fits all IH- and certain
MTD-built Cub Cadet, John Deere, Massey Ferguson, Ford LGT, Jacobsen, MTD
Farm King, Wheel Horse and various other makes and models of garden tractors
with the CCC or ROSS aluminum housing steering box, except Cub Lo-Boy.
Each kit includes new high quality pre-lubricated sealed thrust ball bearing
and nylon-insert lock nut. Replaces OEM double
jam nuts
and
thrust
washer on 5/8" or 3/4" diameter pitman arm stud. Install bearing with
shielding (wording on bearing) against steering box, and tighten nut to remove
looseness, then back off nut until pitman arm rotates freely without binding.
Each kit listed below includes thrust bearing and nylon insert locknut.
NOTE: The Easy Steer Upgrade Kit will NOT work on the steering box with
the pivot shaft bolt NOT welded to the steering arm in MTD-built Cub Cadet
models 782, 784, 786, 1340, 1440, 1535, 1541, 1810, 1811, 1861, 1863, 1912
and 1914 because the protruding threads are too short.
[Top of Page]
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 Teflon Thrust Washers for Steering Knuckles and Front
Axle. Provides easier steering with less effort, especially with a front
end loader bucket. Fits Cub Cadet "Original" and Cub Cadet models 70, 71,
72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129,
147, 149, 169, 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 800, 882, 982,
984, 986, 1000, 1050, 1202, 1204, 1210, 1250, 1450, 1650, 1282, 1340, 1440,
1450, 1512, 1535, 1541, 1572, 1604, 1606, 1641, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1772,
1782, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1860, 1861, 1862, 1863, 1864, 1872, 1882, 1912,
1914, 2072, 2082, 2086, 2165, 2182 and 2284, and various other makes and
models of garden tractors with 3/4", 7/8" or 1" diameter front spindle shafts.
These are not ordinary nylon or plastic washers. These are made of very tough,
long wearing and slippery
polytetrafluoroethylene
(PTFE). Eliminates metal to metal friction, which can result in hard
steering, reduces steering effort about 85% and prevents wear to axle and
steering knuckles. Use automotive chassis lubricating grease when installing.
Works great for general lawn and garden use, and/or tractors with a heavy
snow plow and/or front loading bucket. Installs where steering knuckles makes
contact with underneath of axle (load-bearing and friction area). Go here
for more information:
Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE): Complete Guide.
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 ROSS Steering Box Bearing
Sets. Fits IH Cub Cadet "Original", and Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70,
71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125,
126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 482, 580, 582, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784,
800, 882, 982, 984, 986, 1912, 1914, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1210, 1211, 1250,
1282, 1450, 1512, 1572, 1604, 1606, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1772, 1806, 1810,
1811, 1812, 1872, 2072, including Cub Lo Boy models 154, 184 and 185; Ford
LGT; Jacobsen; John Deere models 60, 70, 100, 110, 112, 120, 140, 200, 208,
210, 212, 214, 216, 300, 312, 314, 316, 317 and 400; Massey Ferguson / Harris
MF models 14, 16, 1200, 1450, 1650, 1655 and 1855; MTD Farm King; Snapper;
Wheel Horse; and various other makes and models of garden tractors with the
CCC or ROSS aluminum housing steering box. Dimensions of hardened
steel cups/races: .870" O.D. x 1.500" O.D. FYI - I've researched all models
of the IH- and MTD-built Cub Cadet steering boxes, and they all use the same
bearing/race kit and all dimensions are the same.
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 Adjustment Plug for ROSS
Steering Box. Fits all models of IH- and MTD-built (CCC) Cub Cadet; Cub Lo-Boy
models 154, 184 and 185; Ford LGT; Jacobsen; John Deere models 60, 70, 100,
110, 112, 120, 140, 200, 208, 210, 212, 214, 216, 300, 312, 314, 316, 317
and 400; Massey Ferguson / Harris MF models 14, 16, 1200, 1450, 1650, 1655
and 1855; MTD Farm King; Snapper; Wheel Horse; and various other makes and
models of garden tractors with the CCC or ROSS aluminum housing steering
box. Dimensions: 1.734" outside of threads diameter. Used and in good condition.
Discontinued from Cub Cadet. OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-394288-R1. $30.00
each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.) |
 Foam Rubber Dust/Grease Seal.
Fits International Cub Cadet "Original" Garden Tractor Steering Box. Replace
or install this part when old one is deteriorated, torn or missing to prevent
dust and dirt from entering inside steering box. May also fit various other
early makes and models of garden tractors. Will not fit later models of Cub
Cadet garden tractors, Ford LGT, Jacobsen, John Deere, Massey Ferguson, MTD
Farm King, Snapper, Wheel Horse or IH Cub Lo-Boy. If the opening in your
steering box match this part, then it will fit.
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 Metal Thrust Plate / Retainer.
Fits International Cub Cadet "Original" Garden Tractor Steering Box. May
also fit various other early makes and models of early garden tractors. Will
not fit later models of Cub Cadet garden tractors, Ford LGT, Jacobsen, John
Deere, Massey Ferguson, MTD Farm King, Snapper, Wheel Horse or IH Cub Lo-Boy.
If the opening in your steering box match this part, then it will fit.
Discontinued from Cub Cadet. Part of OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-376478-R91.
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 Foam Rubber Dust/Grease Seal.
Fits early ROSS aluminum housing steering box in Cub Cadet garden tractor
models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123,
124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 482, 580, 582, 680, 682, 782,
782D, 784, 800, 882, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512,
1604, 1606, 1650, 1710, 1711 and 1712. Also fits Ford LGT, Jacobsen, John
Deere, Massey Ferguson, MTD Farm King, Snapper, Wheel Horse and various other
early makes and models of garden tractors. Will not fit Cub Cadet "Original"
or IH Cub Lo-Boy. This part replaces the seal in the metal thrust plate/retainer
listed below (IH-394936-R91). Will not fit Cub Cadet "Original" or IH Cub
Lo-Boy. This part have no Cub Cadet part number.
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 Metal Thrust Plate/Retainer.
Fits early ROSS aluminum housing steering box in Cub Cadet garden tractor
models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123,
124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 482, 580, 582, 680, 682, 782,
782D, 784, 800, 882, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512,
1604, 1606, 1650, 1710, 1711 and 1712. Also fits Ford LGT; Jacobsen; John
Deere models 110, 112, 120, 140, 300 and 316; Massey Ferguson; MTD Farm King;
Snapper; Wheel Horse and various other later makes and models of garden tractors
with the ROSS steering box. Will not fit Cub Cadet "Original" or IH Cub Lo-Boy.
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 Foam Rubber Dust/Grease
Seal. Fits newer CCC (ROSS) aluminum housing steering box in Cub Cadet garden
tractor models 1050, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1340, 1440, 1535, 1541, 1641, 1806,
1810, 1811, 1812, 1860, 1861, 1863 and 1864. May also fit other makes and
models of garden tractors with the ROSS steering box. Replace or install
this part when old one is deteriorated, torn or missing to prevent dust and
dirt from entering inside steering box. This part replaces the seal in the
metal thrust plate/retainer listed below (703-1031).
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 Metal Thrust Plate Retainer.
Fits newer CCC (ROSS) aluminum housing steering box in Cub Cadet garden tractor
models 1050, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1340, 1440, 1535, 1541, 1641, 1806, 1810,
1811, 1812, 1860, 1861, 1863 and 1864. May fit various other makes and models
of garden tractors with the ROSS steering box. Will not fit Cub Cadet "Original"
or IH Cub Lo-Boy.
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   1/2"
Diameter Cam Followers (Adjustable Steering Pins). Fits International
Cub Cadet "Original" and IH Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102,
104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147,
149, 169, 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 882,
1000, 1100, 1200, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1604, 1606, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712,
1961, 1962 and 1963. Made in the USA of extremely hardened high grade
heat-treated steel for long wear. Not machined grade 8 bolt material. Does
not include
jam nut.
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Flanged Bronze Bushing w/integrated flange.
 Replace worn OEM plastic bushing
so steering shaft will be in perfect alignment with the bearings in the steering
box for smoother steering. Fits upper steering column tube/shaft with a bushing
retainer (metal adapter/reducer) originally installed in International Cub
Cadet "Original" and Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 100, 102, 122 and 123, and
various other early makes and models of garden tractors. OEM bearing retainer
and bushing can be replaced with flanged bushings and bearing listed below
Ê. Dimensions: 3/4" O.D. x 1.003" O.D.
x 3/4" height x 1-1/4" O.D. flange. No longer available from Cub Cadet. Replaces
Cub Cadet part # IH-866105-R1. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
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 Stainless Steel Flat Washer.
Necessary to evenly distribute pressure from either steering wheel retaining
nuts listed below. 5/8" I.D. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
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  Bronze Front Axle
Bushings for Garden Tractors with 3/4" or 1" Diameter Spindle Shafts. When
replacing existing OEM bushings, accurately measure the i.d. x o.d. x length
for replacements of same size. Or use these to replace existing worn bushings
or repair worn (oblong) axle spindle holes when no bushings are originally
installed (when the spindles make metal to metal contact with the cast iron
axle). If no bushings were originally installed in the axle, then spindle
holes must be professionally precision-aligned bored (machined) to accept
bushings. Other sizes of bushings are available. Please let A-1 Miller's
know what you need and I can probably get it for you at a reasonable price.
NOTE: If no Zerk grease fittings are installed
in the axle to lubricate the spindle shafts and for easier steering and longevity
of the bushings, it'll be a good idea to install these, too.
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 Zerk
Grease Fittings. NOTE: Use a 1/4-28 UNF hand tap (preferably Taper
type) to cut new threads for installation of a grease fitting.
Click or tap here to
learn how to professionally drill for and cut new threads. FYI
- If a grease fitting needs to be used in a thin-wall steel tubing (that's
too thin to cut deep enough threads into) to lubricate a moving inside shaft,
weld a
jam nut with 1/4-28 UNF threads to the tubing, then drill
a 3/16" hole through the nut and tubing, and install a grease fitting with
short threads in the nut. [Return
to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]
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 Heavy Duty Tie Rod End Steering
Joints with incorporated rubber dust seal. Can be used on riding mowers,
lawn and garden tractors, ordinary garden tractors, go-karts,
King Midget micro cars, recreational vehicles, garden
pulling tractors, small wheel mini-rod pulling tractors, compact tractors,
automotive throttle linkages, automotive transmission shifter linkages, etc.
Allows for up to 20º angle of misalignment without binding. Before initial
installation, apply clean motor oil under dust seal to help extend life of
ball joint.
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 Steel Jam Nuts. These are
approximately half the thickness/width of ordinary nuts. Use these to secure
tie rod link to tie rod end joint or Heim joint to prevent loosening of steering
link and maintain proper toe-end alignment.
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A-1 Miller's Custom-Made Heavy Duty Steering Linkage Assemblies (Tie Rod or Drag Link) for your Garden Tractor, Compact Tractor, Mini-Rod, etc. NOTE: When ordering, please specify model of Cub Cadet garden tractor, or exact length of linkage from center of mounting studs (tie rods) or center of mounting bolts (Heim joints), and size of tie rods or ball joints.
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 A-1 Miller's Modification
Service - Make the front of your Cub Cadet competition garden pulling
tractor as low as it will go for better weight distribution and more traction
when pulling down the track! This service includes installation of weld-in
drop spindle shafts in YOUR steering knuckles to lower the front end
approximately 2-3/8" for wide or spread frame Cub Cadet models 86, 108, 109,
128, 129, 149, 169, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 800, 882, 1000, 1050,
1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1535 or 1650. An
ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. because nobody else advertise
this type of service. 
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How to Fix a Loose-Fitting Drag Link Arm -
To fix a
loose-fitting drag link arm on the narrow frame Cub Cadet, model 70, 71,
72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126 or 147, the
hub must be "clamped" to the spindle. To do this...
How to Lengthen the Drag Link (link that goes between pitman arm to steering arm on spindle) When the Front Axle is Repositioned Forward:
Measure
the distance the front axle was moved forward. Make a note of the measurement.
IH and MTD Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Models That Share the Same Front Axle -
Front Axle for IH Cub Cadet Narrow Frame Models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102,
104, 105, 106, 107, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127 and 147. (Part # 959-3011)
Front Axle for IH Cub Cadet Wide and Spread Frame Models 86, 108, 109, 128,
129, 149, 169, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100,
1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1535 and 1650. (Part #
759-3270)
Front Axle for IH and MTD Cub Cadet Spread Frame Models 982, 984, 986, 1572,
1772, 1782, 1872, 1882, 1912, 1914, 2072, 2082, 2084, 2086, 2165, 2182 and
2284. (Part # 759-3271)
Front Axle for MTD Cub Cadet Spread Frame Models 1340, 1535, 1541, 1860 and
1862. (Part # 759-3549)
Front Axle for MTD Cub Cadet Spread Frame Models 1440, 1861, 1863 and 1864.
(Part # 719-3100)
How to Reinforce the Spindle Shafts (Steering Knuckles) on Cub Cadet Models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 147, 982, 984, 986, 1340, 1440, 1535, 1541, 1572, 1772, 1782, 1861, 1863, 1864, 1872, 1882, 1912, 1914, 2072, 2082, 2084, 2086, 2165, 2182, 2284, 1860 and 1862.
If the front tires on the narrow
frame Cub Cadet models listed above look "dilapidated" (the tops of the tires
tilt inward), this means the spindle shafts are bent from doing too many
ground-pounding wheelies and weren't reinforced. If the spindle shafts are
bent, to prevent them from getting bent again...
To fix worn holes for the spindles in the axle itself on a narrow frame Cub Cadet, the holes will need to be bored or reamed out and a couple of thin-wall bronze bushings pressed-in for the top and bottom ends of the hole.
How to Reposition the Front End 2-3/8" Lower on Cub Cadet Models 86, 108, 109, 128, 129, 149, 169, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1535 and 1650 -
Acquire a couple of grade 5
bolts, 3/4" diameter x 5" length.
A Pivoting Axle Vs. a Solid-Mounted Axle for Competition Pulling?
I've seen modified garden tractors with a swivel front axle and I've seen some modifieds with a solid-mounted axle. And I noticed that one doesn't pull any better than the other. So it seems it's just the pullers' preference if he or she wants a swivel or solid front axle. And about the only way to fix the looseness of the center pivoting pin hole is to have the axle bored for installation of thin wall bronze bushings, like the ones used for king pins in truck front axles.
How to Repair Worn Pivot Pin Holes for the Front Axle -
Sometimes the pivoting pin in the center of the front axle will rust in place and then the pin will pivot in the holes in the support braces. When this happens, overtime the holes will become oblong and the axle will become unstable, causing sloppy steering. Well, to repair a tractor with worn pivot holes like the ones in the picture below Ê...
If the center hole in an axle is worn, this can be repaired by first boring the hole for a press-fit steel sleeve and then bore the sleeve so a new center pin (or grade 8 or stainless steel bolt) will fit snug in it. Or, you can also bore the hole in the axle and support bracket with a 20 millimeter diameter (equal to .7874") drill bit or reamer and install a hardened 20 mm bolt. It'll be a lot less work to do just do this.
Available Soon - Detailed Illustrated
Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back and Self-Propelled Garden
Tractor Pulling Sled. FYI - I have lots of
work to do in my shop and I work on my sled plans in my spare time. As soon
as my plans with an inventory list of parts to use are perfected, I'll post
the update in my websites with prices of the plans. Remember - Perfection
takes time. If it's worth having, it's worth waiting for. Also, I plan to
acquire a bigger shop and may build high quality garden tractor pulling sleds
in the future to offer for sale. Please call 573-256-0313 (shop) or 573-881-7229
(cell; text or voice message), or email
pullingtractor@aol.com if interested
in purchasing the plans or a sled. - Brian Miller
To place an order and/or for FREE professional and honest
technical assistance and support,
please contact: A-1 Miller's
Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri)
65203-9136 USA | Phone:
1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice
message, please speak slowly and clearly). Payment
Options. Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central
time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian,
please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. A-1 Miller's
shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, with an appointment on weekends,
except holidays. Please call, text or email me before coming so I'll be at
my shop waiting for your arrival. When you visit our shop, you will be dealing
directly with the owner for the best customer service.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't
trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine parts, entire
engine, transaxle, transmission, entire garden tractor, etc. for rebuilding
and/or repairing, or to purchase parts. "The road to a friend's house (or
shop) is never long." (We're planning to relocate our business to other property
with a bigger and better shop so we can provide many more high quality parts
and professional services.)
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or Website]
To place an order, please call the number below Ê or send an email with your name, complete and correct postal address and phone number and so I can figure the total with shipping cost and USPS Tracking. For payment options for parts ordered or services performed, or to make a donation to my websites, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge), Western Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram Money Transfers. (If a part for a specific purpose is special ordered, your debit/credit card may be charged for the full amount or as a deposit right after your order is placed; please do not send your debit/credit card information in email!) Or you can pay A-1 Miller's through PayPal. (My PayPal account name is my email address. And be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment is for.) If sending a money order, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone number and a description of what the payment is for. My mailing address and phone number are below Ê . I'll make a note of your order, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send the parts to you as soon as I have everything in stock after I receive your payment.
IMPORTANT - When sending your part(s) to A-1 Miller's for rebuilding or repair, package everything securely so the item(s) won't get damaged in shipping and please include a note in the box with your name, mailing address, phone number (in case I have any questions) and a description of what you want done. When shipping heavy parts, it's best to put a slightly smaller box inside a larger box, to double the strength and integrity of the package. Because the clumsy "gorillas" or incompetent and uncaring workers that work for certain delivery services mishandle the heavy packages and don't care. And when the work is completed, I'll either call or email you an invoice with the total including shipping & handling.
Payment Options and We Ship to Canada and
Worldwide 
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent
by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged
item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service
Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal
Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S.
territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground
or equivalent services. We try to keep our shipping cost to customers within
reason. Therefore, we don't ship our products in a fancy-looking package
with our company name and/or logo on it because most customers will just
toss it in the trash after they remove the contents. And being there is no
USPS tracking number outside the US, all I can do is make sure I write your
address correctly on the customs form and on your package.
My websites are not set up to process orders and accept payments. Therefore, for payment options, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total amount for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge), Western Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram Money Transfers. If paying with a credit/debit card, please call me at either number below. To make a payment to me through PayPal, please click this link: https://www.paypal.me/PullingTractor. Please use the "Friends and Family" option, or add 3% to the total amount to cover PayPal's processing surcharge. Or to make a payment to me (pullingtractor@aol.com) in the US through the Venmo app, please click this link: venmo.com. Or use Cash App to make a payment to me (pullingtractor@aol.com). And be sure to mention in PayPal, Venmo or Cash App a description of what the payment is for with your full name, postal address, phone number and email address. If sending a money order or cashier's check, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete mailing address, phone number, email address and a description of what the payment is for. I'll make a note of your order when I have all your information, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send everything on your list to you as soon as I have the parts in stock after I receive your payment.
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Copyright © 1996-Present. This website created, designed and maintained by Brian Miller.
9/16" Diameter Cam Follower
(Adjustable Steering Pin). Fits IH- and MTD-built Cub Cadet models 982, 984,
986, 1050, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1340, 1440, 1535, 1541, 1641, 1806, 1810, 1811,
1812, 1860, 1861, 1863, 1912 and 1914. Does not include
Flanged Graphite Bushing
w/integrated flange. Replace worn OEM plastic bushing so steering shaft will
be in perfect alignment with the bearings in the steering box for smoother
steering. Fits upper steering column tube/shaft in certain Cub Cadet models
72, 73, 86, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147,
149, 169, 582, 680, 782, 800, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1250, 1450
and 1650, and various other later makes and models of garden tractors without
bushing retainer at top of steering column tube. Dimensions: 3/4" O.D. x
1-3/8" O.D. x 9/16" width x 1-1/2" O.D. flange. NOTE: End of steering
column must be crimped inward with large pliers so bushing will fit snug
inside tube. Replaces Cub Cadet 941-3023. $3.50 each, plus shipping
& handling.
Flanged Sealed Ball Bearing
w/integrated flange. Replace worn OEM plastic bushing so steering shaft will
be in perfect alignment with the bearings in the steering box for friction-free
steering. Fits upper steering column tube/shaft in certain Cub Cadet models
72, 73, 86, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147,
149, 169, 582, 680, 782, 800, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1250, 1450
and 1650, and various other later makes and models of garden tractors without
bushing retainer at top of steering column tube. Makes for smoother, effortless
and easier steering. Dimensions: 3/4" O.D. x 1-3/8" O.D. x 9/16" width x
1-1/2" O.D. flange. NOTE: End of steering column must be crimped inward
with large pliers so bearing will fit snug inside tube. These are
NOT the low quality flanged bearings that's available at most hardware stores.
These have hardened, heated-treated steel races and balls, sealed on both
sides and pre-packed with grease for longer wear.
Zinc-Plated Steel Nylon Insert
Steering Wheel Retaining Jam Locknut. Will not loosen under normal circumstances.
Fits all Cub Cadet garden tractors and other makes and models of garden tractors
with 5/8-18 UNF (fine thread) threads on steering shaft. IMPORTANT - For
easier installation of nut (and easier removal of steering wheel), use a
5/8-18 UNF
Zinc-Plated Steel Acorn/Crown/Dome
Steering Wheel Retaining Nut. When appearance matters. Fits all Cub Cadet
garden tractors and other makes and models of garden tractors with 5/8-18
UNF (fine thread) threads on steering shaft. IMPORTANT - For easier
installation of nut (and easier removal of steering wheel), use a 5/8-18
UNF
Aircraft Quality
Protective Rubber Seals/Shields
for Heim joints listed above È. These
are a cup-shaped neoprene rubber seal bonded to an aircraft quality flat
washer. When installed, rubber edge fits snug against Heim joint body to
prevent dust, dirt, debris and moisture from entering the spherical ball,
which will cause it to wear. Apply clean motor oil on ball before installing
seals for smoother operation and to extend life of Heim joint. Seals/shields
for 1/4" Heim joint not available.
Do-It-Yourself Weld-In Drop Spindle Shafts. Make the
front of your Cub Cadet competition pulling tractor as low as it will go
for better weight distribution and better traction when pulling down the
track! Lowers front end approximately 2-3/8" on wide and spread frame Cub
Cadet models 86, 108, 109, 128, 129, 149, 169, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682,
782, 800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450,
1512, 1535 or 1650. Can also be used to construct custom-made front axles,
such as for a mini-rod pulling tractor. Standard length of installed [Cub
Cadet] spindle shafts is 3-1/8" for wheels with a 3" width center hub, but
these are available in any other length to accommodate the width of the center
hub in your front wheels. To install, cut off original spindle shafts
flush with steering knuckles, and depending on diameter of shafts, drill
a 3/4" or 1" hole in knuckles approximately 2-3/8" higher/upward from original
shaft location. For front tires to set perpendicular (exact 90° angle)
with the ground, replacement shafts will need to be positioned perpendicular
with each knuckle, then securely weld shaft to backside of knuckle for
non-interference with spacing of wheel/rim. An ingenious and innovative
concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of
this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and
intelligence.) 