How to Repair, Improve and Modify
the Steering on a Cub Cadet Garden Tractor
Where Science and Common Sense Come Together for Better
Performance
A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises
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When building a garden tractor for pulling, it's best to remove and disassemble everything. (This is much easier to do on a platform work table.) Clean and inspect all the parts for wear, especially the steering parts. This is one area a lot of people overlook. Steering is very important, especially in pulling, and should never be overlooked or neglected. Loose or worn steering parts can be dangerous. A puller may just tighten the steering box adjustments, inspect the tie rod ends and that's it. But there's more to it than just making proper adjustments...
How to Remove the Steering Wheel from a Cub Cadet or Virtually Any Garden Tractor with a ROSS Steering Assembly - There are several ways to remove the steering wheel from a Cub Cadet or virtually any garden tractor with the ROSS steering assembly.
DO NOT STRIKE THE END OF THE SPLINED SHAFT WITH
A BIG HAMMER IN AN EFFORT TO REMOVE THE STEERING WHEEL! Doing this could
cause the internal threads in the lower part of the aluminum steering box
to split and crack the case, or the bottom of the box might break off later,
which could be dangerous because the tractor could go out of control, especially
when pulling on the track.
(Added 10/29/18) To prevent damage to the threads on the steering shaft, install an ordinary length 5/8-18 UNF nut on the shaft threaded down until flush with the end of the threads, and while pulling upward on the steering wheel with your hands (help may be needed), give the nut a short blast with an air chisel. Do not use the short OEM steering wheel retaining nut because threads on the shaft may become damaged. AND DO NOT USE A BIG HAMMER! If the end of the steering shaft was hammered on without the nut installed in an effort to remove the steering wheel, which messed up the threads, well, there two ways to fix this... (A-1 Miller's provides this service, too.)
The easy way to fix this is...
-
Use a
hacksaw or
reciprocating saw (also known as a
saw-saw) to cut the damaged threads off the steering shaft
next to the splines.
- Use a 1/2-20 UNF (plug) hand tap to cut new threads in the [hollow] shaft.
- Install a 1/2-20 UNF x 1-1/2" length bolt with a flat washer and lock washer to secure the steering wheel to the shaft.
The more complicated way to fix this and retain the OEM look of the stud with the retaining nut is...
-
Remove the steering shaft from
the steering box assembly.
- Cut the damaged threads off the shaft next to the splines.
- Cut the head off of a 5/8-18 UNF fine thread x 1-1/2" long grade 5 bolt.
- With the original threaded end of the bolt firmly chucked in a metal lathe 1/2", machine down 1" length of the threads until the newly created shank is .003" larger in diameter than the hole in the steering shaft. This will make for a press-fit. Bevel or chamfer the end of the shank for easier insertion in the steering shaft.
- Use a hydraulic press to install the shank into the shaft until the threads of the bolt bottoms out with the splines. DO NOT USE A BIG HAMMER TO INSTALL THE BOLT IN THE SHAFT!
- Use a drill press or milling machine to drill a 3/16" hole through the shaft and shank below or past the splines and install a 3/16" x 3/4" spiral pin to permanently secure the machined bolt to the steering shaft.
- If necessary, grind the end(s) of the spiral pin flush with the shaft so it will not interfere with the upper bearing.
-
Use either a
steering wheel puller (with bolts) or an
automotive harmonic balancer/vibration damper puller (with
bolts) and a
bearing separator, or use only a
3-jaw gear puller to "pull" the steering wheel off the
shaft. To prevent damage to the steering wheel, make sure the jaws of a gear
puller won't break or crack the plastic around the hub.
- If doing the above didn't work, the splined hub in the steering wheel will need to be heated, or if necessary, the hub will need to be cut in two with an oxy-acetylene torch to remove it from the splined shaft. Be careful not to damage (melt) the splined shaft!
-
As the last resort, if the steering
shaft itself must be literary cut-off with a
hacksaw or
reciprocating saw (also known as a
saw-saw), just under the steering wheel, the splined part
of the shaft can be replaced with the steering shaft (that's in good condition)
out of a 1949 to 1994 GM car or truck. Only a short section of the splined
end of the shaft will need to be used. The GM shaft next to the splines will
need to be machined down fit inside the Cub Cadet [hollow] steering shaft,
then the GM shaft can be pressed inside the ROSS shaft with an 1/8" gap.
Fill in the gap with welding around where the two shafts meet. The lump of
weld will need to be either machined down (in a metal lathe; for use of a
solid metal bushing) or ground down (with a hand grinder for use of a ball
bearing) so the upper bushing or bearing will slide on the shaft. Installation
of the steering wheel and hub adapter are explained below
Ê.
Replace
that worn, cracked (and not to mention unsightly and plain/boring looking!)
OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) steering wheel with an attractive,
hot rod/automotive-style, small diameter (10" or 12")
custom steering wheel or a
chrome spoke steering wheel! A custom or chrome spoke steering
wheel will improve the overall appearance of the entire tractor.
To adapt a custom steering wheel
to the steering shaft, and if the splines and threads on the steering shaft
are in good condition, the only automotive custom steering wheel installation
adapter kit I found that fits close on a Cub Cadet splined steering shaft
is an aftermarket early GM steering wheel hub adapter kit
(Grant part # 3196) made for most General Motors cars and
trucks from 1949 to 1994 without telescopic steering. Leave out the horn
switch plate and install multiple flat washers on the supplied steering wheel
mounting bolts so the steering wheel will be tight against the hub. Use the
OEM Cub Cadet steering wheel retaining nut or a 5/8-18 UNF nut with a flat
washer to secure the steering wheel and hub to the steering shaft. The GM
adapter center spline has the correct diameter, but the number of splines
are not a perfect fit, so it will need to be gently tapped onto the Cub Cadet
steering shaft. Or the center splined hub from a 1949 to 1994 OEM GM steering
wheel can be used instead. But the three small holes in the hub will need
to be enlarged and tapped for three 1/4" bolts for installation of the custom
steering wheel. Or if you don't want to use the GM adapter, the splined hub
from an old Cub Cadet steering wheel with the spokes cut off, and a large
flat washer (with three tapped 1/4" bolt holes for installation of the custom
steering wheel) welded to the adapter can be used. Once the steering wheel
is removed, position the front tires forward, fasten the splined adapter
on the steering shaft (with the choice of hardware below
Ê), then fasten the steering wheel with
the adapter facing in the straight ahead position.
Install the three 1/4" bolts
from the bottom up, install the steering wheel, then install
stainless steel acorn nuts with a split lock washer to
the bolts (studs) to fasten the steering wheel for a nice looking and
(rust-proof) professional look. Then to hide the (unsightly) large center
retaining nut, install a 15/16"
stainless steel lug nut cover. These are made for semi
tractor-trailers, which are available at most truck stops and on eBay. Or,
to hide the three bolts and retaining nut, install a
chrome-plated universal custom
automotive horn button (center cap). To do this, machine a large flat washer
in a metal lathe so the washer will be slightly larger than the inside diameter
of the horn button. Fasten the washer in the steering wheel to the three
1/4" bolts with a couple of stacked smaller flat washers under the large
washer. Snap the horn button onto the washer and that's it! Snap the horn
button onto the washer and that's it!
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How To Fix Loose or "Sloppy" Steering Parts -
To improve the steering on an IH Cub Cadet, is to remove, disassemble, clean, inspect, repair as necessary, reassemble, adjust, then lubricate the steering box unit with automotive grease through the grease (Zerk) fitting. By the way - adjustments are made much easier with the steering Box Assembly out of the tractor.
Don't Be A Slob When Rebuilding A Steering Unit!
Always be professional whenever building or rebuilding anything! Before reassembling a steering unit, always take the time to provide a neat and absolutely clean work environment. Make sure that your tools, shop/business towels, steering parts and hands are clean, too. Don't allow any dust or dirt to enter the work bench or table, including the steering box and it's parts. If necessary, place the parts on a large, clean cloth or cardboard to keep them clean and organized until they're ready to be installed. The reason everything should be kept as clean as possible is because even the smallest bit of dirt inside a steering box will "grind away" at the internal parts, causing unnecessary wear.
How to remove the steering box/column unit from the tractor - (This is much easier to do on a platform work table.)
- Disconnect the battery.
- Remove the steering wheel. Despite how rusted-on or stuck-in-place it may be, the OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) steering wheel MUST come off before the steering box can be removed from the tractor.
- Remove the mower deck (if equipped).
- Remove the tie-rod end that's connected to the pitman arm plate (steering lever).
- Remove the two 9/16" bolts that fastens the steering box to the cross-member of the frame.
- The steering unit then slides out from under the tractor.
How to disassemble the steering unit -
- Remove the pitman arm plate and shaft.
- Remove the cotter pin from the end cap.
- Remove the end cap with a large flat screwdriver or flat ratchet tool by turning it counterclockwise.
- Pull or slide the shaft out of the steering box. Use caution not to lose any of the ball bearings!
- Clean and inspect everything. Observe the metal bearing retainers for cracks or breakage. Replace if necessary.
How to reassemble the steering unit -
- Install the ball bearings in the nylon retainers. Apply lubricating grease on the balls to hold them in the nylon retainers so they won't fall out upon installation on the steering shaft.
- Install the ball bearings on the steering shaft with the metal retainers to hold them in place.
- Carefully slide the shaft through the steering box and column until it's bottomed out. Make sure no balls have fallen out of their retainers.
- Install the adjusting plug, and tighten it until it's bottomed out. With Vise-Grips on the splined end of the steering shaft, rotate the shaft in full rotation to assure smoothness with no looseness or binding.
- If the shaft feels like it's somewhat difficult to rotate in either direction, back the adjusting plug off until one of the notches match the hole for the cotter pin, and rotate the shaft in full rotation again. If it rotates smoothly with no looseness or binding, install the cotter pin. Back off the adjusting plug until the notch is against the cotter pin.
- Pump fresh lubricating grease in the steering box and on/around the steering worm gear. Fill it up with grease.
- If it isn't already installed, install the steering cam follower and locknut in the pitman arm plate.
- Install the pitman arm plate and shaft, flat thrust washer and one adjusting nut.
- Tighten down the adjusting nut until it's bottomed out and back it off an 1/8 of a turn. Install the other jam/lock nut and tighten it against the adjusting nut, making sure the adjusting nut doesn't turn.
- Tighten down the steering cam follower until it's bottomed out in the steering worm gear groove and back it off about an 1/8 of a turn.
- With Vise-Grips on the splined end of the steering shaft, rotate the shaft in full rotation. If binding occurs or if it feels a little too loose, adjust the steering cam follower until it feels satisfactory. But make the adjustment so the steering is a little "stiff", but not too tight. Because somehow, if it's adjusted too tight, it will stay too tight, and if it's adjusted "loose", it will loosen up more overtime. There is no way to prevent this. If the shaft rotates smoothly with no looseness or binding, tighten the jam/lock nut, making sure the steering cam follower doesn't turn.
- Pump a few ounces of fresh automotive chassis lube through the grease (Zerk) fitting to make sure the unit is full.
- That's it! The steering unit is now assembled, lubricated and adjusted!
NOTE: If new internal steering box parts are needed in a rebuild, you can get them at virtually any Cub Cadet dealer. Most John Deere lawn & garden service centers and parts stores offers the same parts for the steering box in their models 110, 112, 120, 140, 200, 210, 212, 214, 216, 300, 312, 316 and 317. The steering box in these tractors, which is made by ROSS, are very similar to the ones used in the IH Cub Cadet, except for the mounting holes. The internal parts are basically the same, but new John Deere parts are more expensive than new Cub Cadet parts.
Ever had the steering column (long tube) get pulled out of the steering box on a Cub Cadet? Well, doing the below Ê will guarantee that it will never get pulled out again -
- Remove the steering box/column assembly from the tractor.
- Disassemble the entire steering box assembly.
-
If the tube fits somewhat loose in the steering box, it can be expanded with
use of an
automotive exhaust pipe expander/spreader tool. (Available
at virtually any auto parts store and on eBay.)
- Apply clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant on the tube to prevent water and dirt from entering the steering box, then install it in the box until it bottoms out.
- Drill four 1/8" holes spaced 90° apart through the steering box and into the tube.
- Install 1/8" diameter x 3/8" length pop-rivets to permanently secure the tube to the steering box.
- If the upper part of the steering box is cracked where the tube goes into, install a 2" worm gear hose clamp, or better yet, use a 1-7/8" automotive exhaust pipe U-bolt clamp to close the crack up, and secure the tube to the box as described above È.
- Clean the metal drilling from the steering box and tube, and reassemble the unit using lubricating grease and make the necessary adjustments.
NOTE: If the upper part of the steering tube becomes damaged from removing the steering wheel, it can be straightened back to its original shape with the automotive exhaust pipe expander/spreader tool and a 2-3 lb. hammer. The internal steering shaft must be removed, so the tool will work.
How to "Tighten" a Worn Tie Rod End -
- Remove the tie rod end from the tractor.
- Thread a grade 8, 3/8" fine thread bolt into the tie rod and securely clamp the bolt in a bench vise.
- With the base of the tie rod resting on the jaws of the vise (to prevent bending the bolt), pound the end of the tie rod end with a medium size hammer until the ball is snug in the socket.
- Lubricate the ball with ordinary motor oil.
- Reinstall tie rod end on tractor, adjust toe-in.
If a tie rod end is badly worn and performing
the above È doesn't "tighten" it, and
you have doubts that it may fail in the future, then by all means, replace
it with a known good used one or a new one. Actually, for heavy lawn and
garden use or for a pulling tractor, it's best to use aircraft-quality ball-joint
ends (Heim joints) with a flat washer and rubber dust/dirt shields installed.
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in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501
W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
 Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; when leaving a voice message, please speak slowly
when giving your phone number). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays,
9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When
speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's
shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays.
Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
 E-mail:
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Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who
don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and
fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we
can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
Please click here to place
an order. |
 3/8" Diameter x 1-1/2"
length Spiral Pins for OEM 3-pin clutch drive plate and [narrow frame
Cub Cadet] drag link steering arm. Hardened carbon steel. Minimum Rockwell
hardness is C42. NOTE: The holes in the drag link arm and spindle may
need to be drilled exactly to 3/8" (.375") for this pin to fit.
$3.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
 Steering Assembly Rebuild
Service for all models of IH Cub Cadet "Original", IH- and MTD-built (CCC)
Cub Cadet, Ford LGT, Jacobsen, John Deere, Massey Ferguson, MTD Farm King,
Snapper, Wheel Horse and various other makes and models of garden tractors
with the CCC or ROSS aluminum housing steering box. Rebuild service
includes: completely disassemble steering Box Assembly, clean and inspect
all parts, replace or repair anything that's worn, reassemble, lubricate,
then make necessary adjustments to all moving parts so it'll provide many
years of trouble-free service. NOTE: The Easy Steer
Upgrade Kit will NOT work on the steering box with the pivot shaft bolt NOT
welded to the steering arm in MTD-built Cub Cadet models 782, 784, 786, 1340,
1440, 1535, 1541, 1810, 1811, 1861, 1863, 1912 and 1914 because the protruding
threads are too short.
Rebuilt IH Cub Cadet Steering Box Assemblies. Fits all IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractors, except Cub Cadet "Original" and Cub Lo-Boy.
Rebuilt IH Cub Cadet "Original" Steering Box Assembly.
|
 "Easy Steer" Upgrade Kit.
Makes for smoother, effortless and easier steering. Fits all IH- and certain
MTD-built Cub Cadet, John Deere, Massey Ferguson, Ford LGT, Jacobsen, MTD
Farm King, Wheel Horse and various other makes and models of garden tractors
with the CCC or ROSS aluminum housing steering box, except Cub Lo-Boy.
Provides slightly less effort when steering tractor. Each kit includes new
high quality pre-lubricated sealed thrust ball bearing and nylon-insert lock
nut. Replaces OEM double
jam nuts
and
thrust
washer on 5/8" or 3/4" diameter pitman arm stud. Install bearing with
shielding (wording on bearing) against steering box, and tighten nut to remove
looseness, then back off until pitman arm rotates freely without binding.
NOTE: The Easy Steer Upgrade Kit will NOT work on the
steering box with the pivot shaft bolt NOT welded to the steering arm in
MTD-built Cub Cadet models 782, 784, 786, 1340, 1440, 1535, 1541, 1810, 1811,
1861, 1863, 1912 and 1914 because the protruding threads are too short.
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 Teflon Thrust Washers for Steering Knuckles (Front Spindle
Shafts). Makes for smoother, effortless and easier steering. Fits Cub Cadet
"Original" and Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 108, 109,
122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 482, 580, 582, 582
Special, 680, 682, 782, 800, 882, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1050, 1202, 1204,
1210, 1250, 1450, 1650, 1282, 1340, 1440, 1450, 1512, 1535, 1541, 1572, 1604,
1606, 1641, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1772, 1782, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1860,
1861, 1862, 1863, 1864, 1872, 1882, 1912, 1914, 2072, 2082, 2086, 2182 and
2284, and various other makes and models of garden tractors with 3/4", 7/8"
or 1" diameter front spindle shafts. Made of very tough, long wearing and
slippery
polytetrafluoroethylene
(PTFE) plastic material. Use ordinary automotive chassis grease when
lubricating front spindles. Eliminates metal to metal friction, which can
result in hard steering, reduces steering effort about 85% and prevents wear
to axle and steering knuckles. Works great for general lawn and garden use,
and/or tractors with a heavy snow plow and/or front loading bucket. Installs
where steering knuckles makes contact with underneath of axle (load-bearing
and friction area). Go here for more information:
Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE): Complete Guide.
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 Complete Lower Steering Box
Bearing and Cup/Race Kit. Includes two plastic bearing cages/ball spacers,
16 balls and two races. Fits all models of IH- and MTD-built (CCC) Cub Cadet,
Cub Lo-Boy models 154, 184 and 185, Ford LGT, Jacobsen, John Deere, Massey
Ferguson, MTD Farm King, Snapper, Wheel Horse, and various other makes and
models of garden tractors with the CCC or ROSS aluminum housing steering
box. Kit includes (16) 5/16" diameter steel balls, two nylon retainers and
two .870" i.d. x 1.500" o.d. hardened steel cups/races. FYI - I've researched
all models of the IH- and MTD-built Cub Cadet steering boxes, and they all
use the same bearing/race kit and all dimensions are the same. Replaces
John Deere part # AM31924 and OEM Cub Cadet part # 941-3021 (w/o races).
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 Foam Rubber Dust/Grease
Seal for Steering Box. Fits IH- and MTD-built Cub Cadet garden tractors,
Ford LGT, Jacobsen, John Deere, Massey Ferguson, MTD Farm King, Snapper,
Wheel Horse and various other makes and models of garden tractors with the
CCC or ROSS aluminum housing steering box. Will not fit Cub Cadet "Original"
or IH Cub Lo-Boy.
NOTE: The foam rubber seal protector/retainer (metal cover) for Cub Cadet garden tractor steering boxes is no longer available from Cub Cadet. But they may still be available in Cub Cadet or John Deere dealer's new old stock (NOS) or online. The Cub Cadet part number for Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 100, 102 and certain 122's is IH-376478-R91; and the part number for Cub Cadet models 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 109, 1000, 1100, 1210, 1282, certain 122's, 123, 125, 1250, 126, 127, 128, 129, 482, 1604, 1282, 1710, 1604 and 1710 is IH-394936-R91 . |
 1/2" Cam Followers (Steering Pins).
Fits Cub Cadet models 72, 73, 86, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, certain 122's
and 123's, 124, 125, 126, 127, 147, 482, 582, 682, 782, 800, 1000, 1200,
1250, 1450 and 1650. Dimensions: 1/2-20 UNF (fine thread) threads x 1.740"±
overall length. Can be used as an alternative for cam followers above
È (aftermarket or IH-379992-R1). Cam
follower does not come with jam nut.
 9/16" Cam Follower (Steering
Pin). Fits Cub Cadet models 982, 984, 986, 1050, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1340,
1440, 1535, 1541, 1641, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1860, 1861, 1863, 1912 and
1914. Dimensions: 9/16-18 UNF (fine thread) threads x 1.750"± overall
length. Cam followers does not come with jam nut.
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| Upper Steering Shaft Bushings and Bearings -
Fits Steering Box Assemblies in certain Cub Cadet models 72, 73, 86, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 582, 680, 782, 800, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1250, 1450 and 1650, and various other makes and models of garden tractors without bushing retainer on end of steering column tube. Each listed below Ê can be used to replace OEM bushing and retainer on above È model steering columns. Dimensions: 3/4" i.d. x 1-3/8" o.d. x 9/16" width x 1-1/2" o.d. flange.
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  Steering Wheel Retaining Nut and Flat Washer. Nylon insert
zinc-plated steel locknut; will not loosen under normal circumstances. Fits
Cub Cadet and other makes and models of garden tractors with 5/8-18 UNF (fine
thread) threads on steering shaft. Washer goes under nut to evenly distribute
load.
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  Bronze Front Axle
Bushings for Garden Tractors with 3/4" or 1" Diameter Front Spindles. Use
to replace existing worn bushings or repair worn (oblong) axle spindle holes
when no bushings exist. If replacing existing bushings, accurately measure
the i.d. x o.d. x length of bushings for replacements of same size. But if
no bushings originally came in the axle, then axle holes must be professionally
precision-aligned bored (machined) to accept these bushings. NOTE: If
no grease (Zerk) fittings are installed in
the axle to lubricate the spindle shafts and for easier steering, it'll be
a good idea to install these, too.
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 Grease
(Zerk) Fittings. Use a 1/4-28 UNF (fine thread) hand tap to cut new
threads for installation of a new fitting.
Click or tap here to learn
how to professionally drill for and cut new threads.
Return To Previous Section
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  Heavy duty tie rod ends with integrated rubber dust seal. Very
strong. Dust seal extends life of tie rod end. Most common direct replacements
found on most lawn and garden tractors. Can be used on most garden tractors,
go-karts, mini-rods, custom automotive transmission shifter linkage ends,
etc.
Other sizes and styles of tie rod ends and Heim joints are available. Available in various styles, sizes and materials. Please contact us if you're interested in any of these parts or services. |
 Fabricate steering link for
your tractor. $20.00 each for parts & labor, plus shipping &
handling. Depending on customer's preference, price does not include tie
rod ends or ball joint ends (Heim joints). |
  Do-It-Yourself Weld-In Front Spindle Shafts to lower the front
of wide and spread frame Cub Cadet models 86, 108, 109, 128, 129, 149, 169,
582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100, 1200, 1204,
1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1535 or 1650 as much as 2-3/8" for better
weight transfer in competition pulling. Can also be used to construct custom
front axles, such as for a mini-rod pulling tractor. Stub (shank) length
is 3-1/4" (for wheels with 3" width hub), but available in any length to
accommodate the width of the hub in your front wheels. To install, cut
off original spindle shafts flush with steering knuckle, and drill a 3/4"
hole in steering knuckles ± 2-3/8"
higher than where the original shafts was. Replacement spindle shafts will
need to be positioned perpendicular (exact 90° angle) with steering
knuckle, then securely weld to backside of knuckle for non-interference with
spacing of rim.
Installation Service -
Install weld-in spindle shafts in YOUR steering knuckles to lower front of
tractor ± 2-3/8" for wide or spread
frame Cub Cadet model 86, 108, 109, 128, 129, 149, 169, 582, 582 Special,
680, 682, 782, 800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250,
1282, 1450, 1512, 1535 or 1650. An innovative concept by Brian Miller,
because nobody else advertise this service.
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 Installation Service
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Weld brace to reinforce spindle shafts for your Cub Cadet model Cub Cadet
model 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126,
127, 147, 982, 984, 986, 1340, 1440, 1535, 1541, 1572, 1772, 1782, 1861,
1863, 1864, 1872, 1882, 1912, 1914, 2072, 2082, 2084, 2086, 2182, 2284, 1860
or 1862. An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise
this service.
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Purchase the galvanized steel
tubing alone. Customer installs this part. When ordering, please state length
of the OEM tubing from top of the tube to the steering box. When the galvanized
steel tubing is installed, it will need to be pressed into the steering box
with the welded seam facing downward or out of sight (for appearance reasons),
and secure it with three 1/8" x 1/2" length pop rivets through the steering
box spaced equally apart. Galvanized steel tubing: $10.00, plus shipping
& handling.
1/2" Cam Followers (Steering Pins).
Fits Cub Cadet "Original", and Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 100, 102, certain
122's and 123's, 128, 129, 149 and 169. Dimensions: 1/2-20 UNF (fine thread)
threads x 1.700"± overall length. Can be used as an alternative for
cam follower below Ê (aftermarket or
IH-62806-C2). Cam followers does not come with jam nut.
Fits
steering Box Assemblies originally installed in Cub Cadet "Original" and
Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 100, 102, 122 and 123, and various other makes and
models of garden tractors with bearing retainer (metal cap) on end of steering
column tube. OEM bearing retainer and bushing can be replaced with flanged
bushings and bearing below Ê. Dimensions:
3/4" i.d. x 1.003" o.d. x 3/4" height x 1-1/4" o.d. flange. No longer available
from Cub Cadet. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-866105-R1. $2.00 each,
plus shipping & handling.
Flanged Graphite Bushing.
NOTE: End of steering column must be crimped inward with large pliers
so bushing will fit snug inside tube. Replaces Cub Cadet 941-3023.
$3.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
Flanged Ball Bearing. Makes
for smoother, effortless and easier steering. NOTE: End of steering column
must be crimped inward with large pliers so bearing will fit snug inside
tube. These are NOT the low quality flanged bearings that's available
at most hardware stores. These have hardened, heated-treated steel races
and balls, sealed on both sides and pre-packed with grease for longer wear.
Replaces Cub Cadet 941-3023. $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Heavy duty ball joint
ends (
Rubber Dust/Dirt Shields for
Heim joints above È. These are a cup-shaped
neoprene rubber seal bonded to an aircraft quality flat washer. Rubber fits
very tight against Heim joint to prevent dust, dirt, debris and moisture
from entering spherical ball. Extends the life of Heim joints. These fit
on both sides (top and bottom) of the spherical ball.
How to Fix a Loose-Fitting Drag Link Arm -
To fix a
loose-fitting drag link arm on the narrow frame Cub Cadet (models
70,
71,
72,
73,
100,
102,
104, 105,
106, 107,
122, 123,
124, 125,
126 and 147),
the hub must be "clamped" to the spindle. To do this...
- Remove the drag link arm from the spindle.
- Use a hacksaw to cut a couple of slots in the hub 90° in relation to the roll-pin holes. Cut the slots about 90% down into the hub.
- Place the arm on the spindle and drill through all three (roll-pin) holes with a 3/8" drill bit.
- Acquire a hardened (grade 8) 3/8" bolt, split lock washer and hardened (grade 8) nut. Make sure the bolt has an unthreaded (shouldered) portion the same width as the diameter of the hub.
- Install the bolt in the hub and spindle, then torque the nut to 35 ft. lbs. so the hub is squeezed onto the spindle. NOTE: clamping the hub may weaken the factory spot weld. Therefore, the hub may need to be re-welded to the arm.
How to Determine the OEM or Fabricated Length of the Tie Rod and/or Drag Link on Any Particular Make and Model of Garden Tractor:
- To determine the length of the tie rod (link that goes from one spindle to the other), position the front tires straight ahead (set the toe-end so the front tires are parallel), and measure between the bolt holes in the spindle arms.
- To determine the length of the drag link (link that goes between pitman arm to steering arm on spindle), position the front tire that the drag link is connected to straight ahead, center the steering wheel and measure between the bolt holes in the steering arm to the pitman arm.
- NOTE: IH Cub Cadet have a 1.75:1 steering ratio. To find the center of travel, place masking tape on the steering wheel, and rotate it one way to the extreme. Then return it with the tape being halfway of travel. Remove the tape and place it on the steering wheel facing forward and pitman arm facing straight down.
How to Lengthen the Drag Link (link that goes between pitman arm to steering arm on spindle) When the Front Axle is Repositioned Forward:
-
Measure
the distance the front axle was moved forward. Make a note of the measurement.
- Center the steering wheel with the pitman arm facing straight down.
- With the tires facing forward, measure the center to center distance between the holes in the pitman arm and drag link arm. Make a note of this measurement.
- Cut the OEM drag link in half as shown in the drawing to the right.
- Acquire some 1/2" i.d. x 5/8" o.d. steel tubing of the distance the front axle was moved forward, plus 6" lengthen than the distance. This is important!
- Slide 3" of each cut end of the drag link rod inside the tubing. For strength and minimize flexibility, make sure there's at least 3" of the rod inside the tubing on each end. If the rod won't fit, it may need to be ground down and/or pressed in.
- Adjust the overall length of the lengthened drag link by sliding the rods back and forth in the tubing until the drag link has the added difference of how far the axle have been moved forward.
- Weld the tubing to the rods. But first, double check the front tires for facing forward and centering of the drag link arm (steering wheel)!
- Grind the weld smooth, paint and that's it!
IH and MTD Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Models That Share the Same Front Axle -
Front Axle for IH Cub Cadet Narrow Frame Models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102,
104, 105, 106, 107, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127 and 147. (Part # 959-3011)
Front Axle for IH Cub Cadet Wide and Spread Frame Models 86, 108, 109, 128,
129, 149, 169, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100,
1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1535 and 1650. (Part #
759-3270)
Front Axle for IH and MTD Cub Cadet Spread Frame Models 982, 984, 986, 1572,
1772, 1782, 1872, 1882, 1912, 1914, 2072, 2082, 2084, 2086, 2182 and 2284.
(Part # 759-3271)
Front Axle for MTD Cub Cadet Spread Frame Models 1340, 1535, 1541, 1860 and
1862. (Part # 759-3549)
Front Axle for MTD Cub Cadet Spread Frame Models 1440, 1861, 1863 and 1864.
(Part # 719-3100)
How to Reinforce the Spindle Shafts (Steering Knuckles) on Cub Cadet Models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 147, 982, 984, 986, 1340, 1440, 1535, 1541, 1572, 1772, 1782, 1861, 1863, 1864, 1872, 1882, 1912, 1914, 2072, 2082, 2084, 2086, 2182, 2284, 1860 or 1862 -
If the front tires on the above
È Cub Cadet models look "dilapidated"
(the tops of the tires tilt inward), this means the spindle shafts are bent
from doing too many ground-pounding wheelies and weren't reinforced. If the
spindle shafts are bent, to prevent them from getting bent again...
- Heat the spindle shafts with an oxy-acetylene torch in a hydraulic press to reposition them so the tires will set perpendicular with the ground. Or re-angle the spindle shafts so the tops of the tires will tilt slightly outward for that "tough" look.
- Install the spindles on the axle, then the tires, and stand away from the front of the tractor to visually check that the tires are positioned perpendicular with the ground. Adjust if necessary.
- Remove spindles if necessary (this is much easier to do on a platform work table) and weld a 1/4" x 3/4" x 1-3/4" piece of mild steel (brace) in the bend section.
To fix worn holes for the spindles in the axle itself on a narrow frame Cub Cadet, the holes will need to be bored or reamed out and a couple of thin-wall bronze bushings pressed-in for the top and bottom ends of the hole.
How to Reposition the Front End 2-3/8" Lower on Cub Cadet Models 86, 108, 109, 128, 129, 149, 169, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1535 and 1650 -
-
Acquire a couple of grade 5
bolts, 3/4" diameter x 5" length.
- Measure from under the bolt head out 3-1/4", and cut off the bolt, creating a couple of stub shafts that's 3-1/4" length when measured from under the head. (Best to use a small horizontal bandsaw. Cut the threaded end off, but leave the head of the bolt intact.)
- Chuck each stub shaft in the jaws of a metal lathe and machine the bolt head so it'll be round. Shorten the height of the head to about 3/8" so it will not make contact with the axle when installed.
- Turn the stub shaft around (end for end) in the chuck and bore a hole in the end of each shaft for a 3/8-16 UNC (coarse thread) wheel retaining bolt and flat washer.
- Remove the steering knuckles from the axle. (This is much easier to do on a platform work table.)
- Cut off the original spindle shafts flush with the steering knuckle.
- Drill a 3/4" hole (for the new spindle/stub shafts) 2-3/8" from the center of the original spindle shaft.
- Install the stub shafts in the 3/4" holes and securely weld the rounded/shortened bolt heads to the backside of each steering knuckle. For the tires to set perpendicular with the ground, before welding, make sure the shafts are positioned perpendicular (90°) to the flat on the knuckles!
- Install the steering knuckles on the axle, then the tires, and stand back from the front of the tractor to visually check that the tires are positioned perpendicular with the ground. Adjust if necessary.
A Pivoting Axle Vs. a Solid-Mounted Axle for Competition Pulling?
I've seen modified garden tractors with a swivel front axle and I've seen some modifieds with a solid-mounted axle. And I noticed that one doesn't pull any better than the other. So it seems it's just the pullers' preference if he or she wants a swivel or solid front axle. And about the only way to fix the looseness of the center pivoting pin hole is to have the axle bored for installation of thin wall bronze bushings, like the ones used for king pins in truck front axles.
How to Repair Worn Pivot Pin Holes for the Front Axle -
Sometimes the pivoting pin in the center of the front axle will rust in place and then the pin will pivot in the holes in the support braces. When this happens, overtime the holes will become oblong and the axle will become unstable, causing sloppy steering. Well, to repair a tractor with worn pivot holes like the ones in the picture below Ê...
- Drill or ream the holes in the braces to exactly 1.000".
- Fabricate a steel reducer sleeve bushing (spacer) that measures 3/4" i.d. x 1.003" o.d. for a press-fit.
- Press each bushing in the holes of the braces. Make sure the bushings are aligned properly so the pin will rotate freely to prevent binding.
- Tack weld the edge of each bushing on the outside of the braces.
- The center line of the OEM hole in the bracket is 1-1/8" from the frame. But this will be altered due to the offset of the bushing.
If the center hole in an axle is worn, this can be repaired by first boring the hole for a press-fit steel sleeve and then bore the sleeve so a new center pin (or grade 8 or stainless steel bolt) will fit snug in it. Or, you can also bore the hole in the axle and support bracket with a 20 millimeter diameter (equal to .7874") drill bit or reamer and install a hardened 20 mm bolt. It'll be a lot less work to do just do this.
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(dyno), please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old
Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell; when leaving a voice message, please speak slowly
when giving your phone number). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays,
9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When
speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's
shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays.
Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who
don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and
fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle,
tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're
planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we
can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
Please click here to place
an order.
A-1 Miller's Fully Computerized Stuska Water Brake Engine Dynamometer (Dyno) Service with DPM Data Logger Software!
Engine Dyno Rental Fee: $50.00 per hour run time from the moment the engine is started. No setup fee for Cub Cadet engines with a 3- or 6-pin/stud clutch driver. An adapter may need to be needed or fabricated for other makes and models of engines. Only engines with the narrow base oil pan can be tested. Engines with the wide base (tall) oil pan cannot be tested at this time. |
For performance testing engines
up to 200hp at speeds up to 12,000 RPM. The only engine dyno service in Missouri
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puller can adjust their engine to get maximum horsepower and torque, and
gear their tractor appropriately to have an advantage over the competition.
NOTE: A fresh-built engine may not produce full power until it's broke-in.
This is when the valves wear-in with the seats to completely seal in the
compression. The rings will likely hold the compression, but the valves may
leak slightly until they wear into the seats. This is normal for all engines
and may take several hours or pulls to happen, then the valves will be able
to hold full compression. Lots of pullers tell me after I've built their
engines that it seems to pull stronger every time they pull it.
A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia,
MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; when leaving a voice
message, please speak slowly when giving your phone number). Please call
Monday-Friday , except holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer,
please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because
I stutter.) A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm,
including weekends , except holidays. Please call before coming so I'll be
here waiting for your arrival.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who
don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and
fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your engine, transaxle, tractor, etc. "The road to
a friend's house (or shop) is never long."
To place an order, please call the number below Ê or send an email with your name, complete and correct postal address and phone number and so I can figure the total with shipping cost and USPS Tracking. For payment options for parts ordered or services performed, or to make a donation to my websites, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge), Western Union Money Transfer, MoneyGram Money Transfers or Popmoney. (If a part for a specific purpose is special ordered, your debit/credit card may be charged for the full amount or as a deposit right after your order is placed; please do not send your debit/credit card information in email!) Or you can pay me through PayPal. (My PayPal account name is my email address. And be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment is for.) If sending a money order, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone number and a description of what the payment is for. My mailing address and phone number are below Ê . I'll make a note of your order, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send the parts to you as soon as I have everything in stock after I receive your payment.
IMPORTANT - When sending your part(s) to me for rebuilding or repair, package everything securely so the item(s) won't get damaged in shipping and please include a note in the box with your name, mailing address, phone number (in case I have any questions) and a description of what you want done. When shipping heavy parts, it's best to put a slightly smaller box inside a larger box, to double the strength and integrity of the package. Because the clumsy "gorillas" or incompetent and uncaring workers that work for certain delivery services mishandle the heavy packages and don't care. And when the work is completed, I'll either call or email you an invoice with the total including shipping & handling.
To figure the shipping cost, I weigh the package with the parts, then I go online to the USPS Postage Rate Calculator website. I type in the weight, my zip code and your zip code, then it shows me the prices for various ways to ship the package. I always choose US Postal Service because I believe that's the most fastest, economical and reliable method.
Shipping: (United States and it's territories)
To save you shipping charges, item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope
weighing less than 13 oz. is sent by First Class Mail for a 2-6 day delivery.
Most packaged item(s) weighing over 13 oz. is sent by US Priority Mail for
a 2-3 day delivery. To save you even more on shipping heavy items, I always
try to use the US Postal Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelope and boxes
(if the item(s) can fit inside the envelope or boxes). Some heavy items weighing
no more than 70 lbs. is sent by US Mail Parcel Post. Item(s) weighing over
70 lbs. is sent by FedEx Ground. Again, if you're the kind of person who
don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and
fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
drop off and/or pick up your engine, transaxle, tractor, etc.
We Ship to Canada and Worldwide 
-
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent
by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged
item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service
Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal
Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S.
territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground
or equivalent services.
(When placing an order through PayPal, please provide a list of which
parts you need.)
To make a payment to me through PayPal, go to PayPal's secure website ( https://www.paypal.com/ ) and click on Send and Request -> Pay for goods or services. Type in my email address, or copy and paste this: pullingtractor@aol.com, the amount and follow the directions. Be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment is for. After you've finished, PayPal will send me an email notifying me that you have made a payment to me for the product(s) or services and amount entered. Then I go to their website and direct PayPal to deposit the money in my bank account. And I will send the parts to you as soon as I receive your payment. But I may have to order some of the parts if they're not in stock, which should take a few days. In that case, I will send you the parts as soon as they come in. PayPal protects your financial privacy and security. With PayPal, privacy is built in. It's a way for you to pay without exposing their financial information.
Coming Soon - Detailed
Illustrated Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back and Self-Propelled
Garden Tractor Pulling Sled. FYI - The
professionally-built self-propelled pulling sled, Track Master (click the
picture to the right to see a larger image of this sled), is the only one
I've ever built and I got it right the first time, with very few changes
that had to be made to it. I guess I'm just one of those kind of guys that
knows what he's doing. Pullers really like pulling our sled, too. They say
it's the best sled they've ever pulled. (Not bragging, just stating a fact.)
By the way - Track Master sled is engineered so well (by Brian Miller), that
other sled builders/owners have copied my well thought-out and proven design.
Anyway, I have lots of work to do in my shop and I work on the sled plans
in my spare time. As soon as my plans with an inventory list of parts to
use are perfected, I'll post the update in my websites. Remember - Perfection
takes time. If it's worth having, it's worth waiting for. Also, I plan to
acquire a bigger shop and I may build high quality garden tractor pulling
sleds in the future to offer for sale. Please call me at 573-256-0313 (shop)
or 573-881-7229 (cell; when leaving a voice message, please speak slowly
when giving your phone number), or email me at
pullingtractor@aol.com if you're
interested. - Brian Miller
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