|
FYI - A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises is a legal, legitimate and reputable business. And as of 2023, A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises is still in business and offering all parts and services listed in this website. Please click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, if you need a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. |
How to Repair, Improve and Modify
the Steering on a Cub Cadet and Other Makes and Models of Garden Tractors
Inspiring Small Engine, Lawn & Garden, and Garden Pulling Tractor
Enthusiasts Since 1996. Where Science and Common Sense Come Together for
Safety and Improved Engine/Tractor Performance
A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises
- Parts & Services Online Catalog
Last update: 10/29/18 (Click Refresh to see changes or updates.) Optimized for 1024 x 768 screen resolution. To search for a word or phrase in any of my web sites, press CTRL and F to open the Find dialog box in your web browser.
When building a garden tractor for pulling, it's best to remove and disassemble everything. (This is much easier to do on a platform work table.) Clean and inspect all the parts for wear, especially the steering parts. This is one important thing many people overlook. Steering is very important, especially in pulling, and should never be overlooked or neglected. Loose or worn steering parts can be dangerous. A puller may just tighten the steering box adjustments, inspect the tie rod ends and that's it. But there's more to it than just making proper adjustments...
How to Remove the Steering Wheel from a Cub Cadet or Virtually Any Garden Tractor with a ROSS Steering Assembly - There are several ways to remove the steering wheel -
DO NOT STRIKE THE SPLINED END OF THE STEERING
SHAFT WITH A BIG HAMMER IN AN ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THE STEERING
WHEEL! Doing this could cause the internal threads in
the lower part of the cast aluminum steering box housing to split and crack
the case or break off entirely. Or if the housing is cracked, the bottom
of the steering box could break off entirely later, which would be dangerous
because the tractor could go out of control, especially when pulling on the
track.
To prevent damage to the threads on the steering shaft, install an ordinary length 5/8-18 UNF nut on the shaft threaded down until flush with the end of the threads, and while pulling upward on the steering wheel with your hands (assistance/help may be needed), give the nut a short blast with an air chisel. Do not use the short OEM steering wheel retaining jam nut because threads on the shaft may become damaged. AND DO NOT USE A BIG HAMMER! If the end of the steering shaft was hammered on without the nut installed in an effort to remove the steering wheel, which caused the threads to become flared-out or "mushroomed", well, there two ways to fix this... (A-1 Miller's provides this repair service, too.)
The easy way to fix this is...
Use a
hacksaw or
reciprocating saw (also known as a
saw-saw) to cut the damaged threads off the steering shaft
next to the splines.
The more complicated way to fix this and retain the OEM look of the stud with the retaining nut is...
Remove the steering shaft from
the steering box assembly.
Use either a
steering wheel puller (with bolts) or an
automotive harmonic balancer/vibration damper puller (with
bolts) and a
bearing separator, or use only a
3-jaw gear puller to "pull" the steering wheel off the
shaft. To prevent damage to the steering wheel, make sure the jaws of a gear
puller won't break or crack the plastic around the hub.
As the last resort, if the steering
shaft itself must be literary cut-off with a
hacksaw or
reciprocating saw (also known as a
saw-saw), just under the steering wheel, the splined part
of the shaft can be replaced with the steering shaft (that's in good condition)
out of a 1949 to 1994 GM car or truck. Only a short section of the splined
end of the shaft will need to be used. The GM shaft next to the splines will
need to be machined down fit inside the ROSS [hollow] steering shaft, then
the GM shaft can be pressed inside the ROSS shaft with an 1/8" gap. Fill
in the gap with welding around where the two shafts meet. The lump of weld
will need to be either machined down (in a metal lathe; for use of a solid
metal bushing) or ground down (with a hand grinder for use of a ball bearing)
so the upper bushing or bearing will slide on the shaft. Installation of
the steering wheel and hub adapter are explained below
Ê.
Replace
that worn, cracked (and not to mention unsightly and boring/plain looking)
OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) steering wheel with an attractive,
small diameter (10" or 12") automotive-style/hot rod
custom steering wheel or a
chrome spoke steering wheel! A custom or chrome spoke steering
wheel will, without a doubt, improve the overall appearance of the entire
tractor.
To adapt a custom steering wheel
to the ROSS [splined end] steering shaft, and if the splines and threads
on the shaft are in good condition, the only custom automotive steering wheel
installation adapter kit I found that fits close on the ROSS splined steering
shaft is an aftermarket early GM steering wheel hub adapter kit,
Grant part # 3196, that's made for most General Motors
cars and trucks from 1949 to 1994 without telescopic steering. Leave out
the horn switch plate and install multiple flat washers on the supplied steering
wheel mounting bolts so the steering wheel will install tight against the
hub. Use the OEM ROSS (Cub Cadet, John Deere, etc.) steering wheel retaining
nut or a 5/8-18 UNF jam nut with a thin flat washer to secure the steering
wheel and hub to the steering shaft. The GM adapter center spline has the
correct diameter, but the number of splines are not a perfect fit, so it
will need to be gently tapped onto the steering shaft. Or the center splined
hub from a 1949 to 1994 OEM GM steering wheel can be used instead. But the
three small holes in the hub will need to be enlarged and tapped for three
1/4" bolts for installation of the custom steering wheel. But if you don't
want to use the GM adapter, the splined hub from an early model Cub Cadet
steering wheel with the spokes cut off, and a large flat washer (with three
tapped 1/4" bolt holes for installation of the custom steering wheel) welded
to the adapter can be used. Once the steering wheel is removed, position
the front tires forward, fasten the splined adapter on the steering shaft
(with the choice of hardware listed below
Ê), then fasten the steering wheel with
the adapter facing in the straight ahead position. For easier installation
of nut (and easier removal of steering wheel), use a 5/8-18 UNF
threading die (and
handle/wrench) to clean/straighten damaged threads on shaft,
apply
anti-seize compound/lubricant on threads (including
splines inside steering wheel and on shaft), then torque nut to 65 ft. lb.
Install the three 1/4" bolts
from the bottom up, install the steering wheel, then install
stainless steel acorn nuts with a split lock washer to
the bolts (studs) to fasten the steering wheel for a nice looking and
(rust-proof) professional look. Then to hide the (unsightly) large center
retaining nut, install a 15/16"
stainless steel lug nut cover. These are made for semi
tractor-trailers, which are available at most truck stops and on eBay. Or,
to hide the three bolts and retaining nut, install a
chrome-plated universal custom
automotive horn button (center cap). To do this, machine a large flat washer
in a metal lathe so the washer will be slightly larger than the inside diameter
of the horn button. Fasten the washer in the steering wheel to the three
1/4" bolts with a couple of stacked smaller flat washers under the large
washer. Snap the horn button onto the washer and that's it! Snap the horn
button onto the washer and that's it!
|
|
|
|
|
|
How To Fix Loose or "Sloppy" Steering Parts -
To improve the steering on an IH Cub Cadet garden tractor, is to remove, disassemble, clean, inspect, repair as necessary, reassemble, adjust, then lubricate the steering box unit with automotive grease through the Zerk grease fitting. By the way - adjustments are made much easier with the steering box assembly out of the tractor. Remember - grease fittings provide preventive maintenance when they're used regularly. Because grease cost less than any major repair of equipment.
Don't Be A Slob When Rebuilding A Steering Unit!
Always be professional whenever building or rebuilding anything! Before reassembling a steering unit, always take the time to provide a neat and absolutely clean work environment. Make sure that your tools, shop/business towels, steering parts and hands are clean, too. Don't allow any dust or dirt to enter the work bench or table, including the steering box and it's parts. If necessary, place the parts on a large, clean cloth or cardboard to keep them clean and organized until they're ready to be installed. The reason everything should be kept as clean as possible is because even the smallest bit of dirt inside a steering box will "grind away" at the internal parts, causing unnecessary wear.
How to remove the steering box/column unit from the tractor - (This is much easier to do on a platform work table.)
How to disassemble the steering unit -
How to reassemble the steering unit -
NOTE: If new internal steering box parts are needed in a rebuild, you can get them at virtually any Cub Cadet garden tractor dealer. Most John Deere lawn & garden service centers and parts stores offers the same parts for the steering box in their models 110, 112, 120, 140, 200, 210, 212, 214, 216, 300, 312, 316 and 317. The steering box in these tractors, which is made by ROSS, are very similar to the ones used in the IH Cub Cadet garden tractor, except for the mounting holes. The internal parts are basically the same, but new John Deere parts are more expensive than new Cub Cadet garden tractor parts.
Ever had the steering column tube get pulled out of the steering box on a Cub Cadet garden tractor? Well, doing the below Ê will guarantee that it will never get pulled out again -
automotive exhaust pipe expander/spreader tool. (Available
at virtually any auto parts store and on eBay.)
NOTE: If the upper part of the steering tube becomes damaged from removing the steering wheel, it can be straightened back to its original shape with the automotive exhaust pipe expander/spreader tool and a 2-3 lb. hammer. The internal steering shaft must be removed, so the tool will work.
How to "Tighten" a Worn Tie Rod End -
If a tie rod end is badly worn and performing
the above È doesn't "tighten" it, and
you have doubts that it may fail in the future, then by all means, replace
it with a known good used one or a new one. Actually, for heavy lawn and
garden use or for a pulling tractor, it's best to use aircraft-quality ball-joint
ends (Heim joints) with a flat washer and rubber dust/dirt shields installed.
Front Axle Pivot Pin, Tie Rod Ends, Heim Joints, Drag Link Steering Joints and Custom-Made Steering Links - NOTE: Before ordering any of the parts listed below, it'll be best to completely disassemble your steering assembly and thoroughly clean all the parts to determine exactly which replacement part(s) it will need. Because certain parts wear more than others, while other parts don't wear at all.
 Stainless Steel Flat Washer.
Necessary to evenly distribute pressure from either steering wheel retaining
nuts listed below. 5/8" I.D. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
 Felt Sealing Washer for
Upper Steering Column Tube/Shaft. Prevents wear to upper bushing due to
contamination of dust and dirt. Not required with sealed bearing listed below.
Fits all models of IH- and MTD-built Cub Cadet garden tractors and other
makes and models of garden tractors with a 3/4" steering shaft. Made of
interwoven wool. Dimensions: 3/4" I.D. x 1-1/4" O.D. x 1/4" thick.
|
Bearing/Race Sets for ROSS and CCC Steering
Boxes. Fits IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor, and Cub Cadet garden
tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109,
122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 482, 580, 582, 680,
682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 882, 982, 984, 986, 1912, 1914, 1000, 1100, 1200,
1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1572, 1604, 1606, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712,
1772, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1872, 2072, including Cub Lo Boy models 154,
184 and 185; Ford LGT; Jacobsen; John Deere models 60, 70, 100, 110, 112,
120, 140, 200, 208, 210, 212, 214, 216, 300, 312, 314, 316, 317 and 400;
Massey Ferguson / Harris MF models 14, 16, 1200, 1450, 1650, 1655 and 1855;
MTD Farm King; Snapper; Wheel Horse; and various other makes and models of
garden tractors with the ROSS or CCC aluminum housing steering box.
IMPORTANT: For
preventive maintenance and smoother steering, lubricate
these parts through Zerk grease fitting with
an
automotive grease gun once a year. Dimensions of each
part: 5/16" balls; nylon cages/spacers: 1.500" O.D.; cups/races: 1.550" O.D.
[Top of Page]
|
 Foam Rubber Dust/Grease Seal.
Fits IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor steering box. Replace or install
this part when old one is deteriorated, torn or missing to prevent dust and
dirt from entering inside steering box. May also fit various other early
makes and models of garden tractors. Will not fit later models of Cub Cadet
garden tractors, Ford LGT, Jacobsen, John Deere, Massey Ferguson, MTD Farm
King, Snapper, Wheel Horse or IH Cub Lo-Boy. If the opening in your steering
box match this part, then it will fit. Discontinued from Cub Cadet. Part
of OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-376478-R91. $20.00± each, depending
on source and availability, plus shipping & handling. (When
available.)
|
  1/2" Diameter Cam Follower (Adjustable Steering Pin). Replace
worn cam follower for "tighter" and less "sloppy" or "loose" steering. Fits
IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor and IH Cub Cadet garden tractor models
70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124,
125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680,
682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 882, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512,
1604, 1606, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1961, 1962 and 1963. Does not include
jam nut.
|
 "Easy
Steer" Upgrade Kits. Provides easier steering with slightly less
effort, especially with a front end loader bucket. Fits all IH- and certain
MTD-built Cub Cadet, John Deere, Massey Ferguson, Ford LGT, Jacobsen, MTD
Farm King, Wheel Horse and various other makes and models of garden tractors
with the ROSS or CCC aluminum housing steering box, except Cub Lo-Boy.
Each kit listed below includes new high quality pre-lubricated sealed thrust
ball bearing and nylon-insert lock nut. Replaces double OEM
jam nuts
and
thrust
washer on 5/8" or 3/4" diameter pitman arm stud. Install bearing with
shielding (wording on bearing) against steering box, and tighten nut to remove
looseness, then back off nut until pitman arm rotates freely without binding.
NOTE: The Easy Steer Upgrade Kit will NOT work on the steering box with
the pivot shaft bolt NOT welded to the steering arm in MTD-built Cub Cadet
garden tractor models 782, 784, 786, 1340, 1440, 1535, 1541, 1810, 1811,
1861, 1863, 1912 and 1914 because the protruding threads are too short.
[Top of Page]
|
 Adjustment Plug for ROSS
Steering Box. Fits all models of IH built (ROSS) and MTD-built (CCC) Cub
Cadet garden tractors; Cub Lo-Boy models 154, 184 and 185; Ford LGT; Jacobsen;
John Deere models 60, 70, 100, 110, 112, 120, 140, 200, 208, 210, 212, 214,
216, 300, 312, 314, 316, 317 and 400; Massey Ferguson / Harris MF models
14, 16, 1200, 1450, 1650, 1655 and 1855; MTD Farm King; Snapper; Wheel Horse;
and various other makes and models of garden tractors with the ROSS or
CCC aluminum housing steering box. Dimensions: 1.734" outside of threads
diameter. Used and in good condition. Discontinued Cub Cadet part # IH-394288-R1.
$30.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.) |
 Front Axle Center Pivot
Pin. Fits all IH Cub Cadet narrow and wide frame garden tractor models 70,
71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125,
126, 127, 128 129, 147, 149, 169, 800, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1250, 1450 and 1650.
Made of hardened steel. Dimensions: 3/4" x 4-3/8" length. IMPORTANT: For
preventive maintenance, lubricate
Zerk grease fitting with an
automotive grease gun once a year.
|
 Heavy Duty Tie Rod End Steering
Joints with incorporated protective rubber dust seal. Each can be used on
riding mowers, lawn and garden tractors, ordinary garden tractors, go-karts,
King Midget micro cars, small motorized vehicles,
competition garden pulling tractors, small wheel mini-rod pulling tractors,
compact tractors, automotive throttle linkages, automotive transmission shifter
linkages, etc. Allows for up to 20º angle of misalignment without binding.
Before initial installation, apply clean motor oil under rubber dust seal
to help extend life of ball joint.
|
| A-1 Miller's Heavy Duty
Custom-Made Steering Linkage Assemblies (Tie Rod Linkage or
Drag Link) for your Ordinary Garden Tractor, Go-Kart, Small Motorized Vehicle,
Compact Tractor, Mini-Rod, etc. NOTE: When ordering, please specify model
of Cub Cadet garden tractor, or exact length of linkage from center of mounting
studs (tie rods) or center of mounting bolts (Heim joints), and size of tie
rods or ball joints. Or better yet, and if you wish, ship me your original
linkage so I can duplicate it into a heavy duty linkage.
[Top of Page]
|
Click here to contact A-1 Miller's for FREE honest and accurate technical support and/or for ordering information and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website. [Top of Page]
A-1 Miller's Professional
Repair Service - Professionally Weld Crack in ROSS (Cub Cadet, John Deere,
etc.) Steering Box to Retain Original Strength and Integrity.
|
 A-1
Miller's Professional Rebuild/Repair Service for ROSS Steering Box/Column
Assemblies for IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor, IH- and MTD-built
Cub Cadet, Ford LGT, Jacobsen, John Deere, Massey Ferguson, MTD Farm King,
Snapper, Wheel Horse and various other makes and models of garden tractors
with the ROSS or CCC (Cub Cadet Corporation) aluminum housing manual
steering box. Services include: Completely disassemble steering box assembly,
clean and inspect all parts for wear, repair or replace any part that's worn,
reassemble, lubricate, then make necessary adjustments until steering works
smoothly so it'll provide many more years of trouble-free service.
$50.00± labor + extra charge for replacement parts, plus return
shipping & handling. IMPORTANT: For
preventive maintenance and smoother steering, lubricate
steering box through Zerk grease fitting with
an
automotive grease gun once a year.
FOR SALE: Professionally Rebuilt IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor and Cub Lo-Boy ROSS Steering Box/Column Assembly. NOTE: If we don't have a rebuilt steering assembly that matches yours in stock, we'll rebuild yours instead, and charge you for the parts and labor it takes to rebuild it, plus return shipping & handling. IMPORTANT: For preventive maintenance and smoother steering, lubricate steering box through Zerk grease fitting with an automotive grease gun once a year.
FOR SALE: Professionally Rebuilt IH Cub Cadet ROSS Steering Box/Column Assemblies. NOTE: If we don't have a rebuilt steering assembly that matches yours in stock, we'll rebuild yours instead, and charge you for the parts and labor it takes to rebuild it, plus return shipping & handling. IMPORTANT: For preventive maintenance and smoother steering, lubricate steering box through Zerk grease fitting with an automotive grease gun once a year.
|
 Teflon Thrust Washers for Steering Knuckles and Front
Axle. Installs where steering knuckles makes contact with underneath
of axle (load-bearing and friction area), and is centered by the steel
bushings/spacers (listed below). Provides easier steering with less effort,
especially with a snow plow or front end loader bucket. Each Teflon thrust
washer listed below fits various makes and models of garden tractors with
3/4", 7/8" or 1" diameter front vertical spindle shafts. These washers are
made of very tough, long wearing and slippery
polytetrafluoroethylene
(PTFE), and not ordinary nylon or plastic. Reduces steering effort about
85% and eliminates metal to metal friction, which can result in hard steering
and wear to axle and steering knuckles (even when knuckles are lubricated
once a year). Apply automotive grease when installing. Go here for more
information:
Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE): Complete Guide.
|
  Steering Knuckle/Front Axle Spacers (Steel Sleeve Bushings).
Does not include bolts or castle nuts. Replace worn spacers for dilapidated
front tires and for easier steering. Each spacer listed below fits various
front axles in Cub Cadet garden tractor models 86, 108, 109, 128, 129, 149,
169, 482, 580, 582, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100,
1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1450, 1512, 1604, 1606, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712,
1806, 1810, 1811 and 1812. NOTE: The steering knuckles are supposed to
"clamp" against these spacers with the OEM bolts/nuts, and the bushings/spacers
are supposed to rotate/swivel in the axle housing with movement of the steering
knuckles. IMPORTANT: For
preventive maintenance and smoother steering, lubricate
these parts through Zerk grease fitting with
an
automotive grease gun once a year.
|
  Steering
Knuckle/Front Axle Bronze Bushings. Replace worn bushings for dilapidated
front tires and for easier steering. Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models
982, 984, 986, 1572, 1772, 1782, 1872, 1882, 1912, 1914, 2072, 2082, 2084,
2086, 2182 and 2284. Dimensions: 1" I.D. x 1.125" O.D. x 1" Length. Use these
to replace existing OEM worn bushings or repair worn (oblong) axle spindle
holes when no bushings are originally installed (when the spindles make metal
to metal contact with the cast iron axle). If no bushings were originally
installed in the axle, then spindle holes must be professionally
precision-aligned bored (machined) to accept bushings. Other sizes of bushings
are available. IMPORTANT: If no Zerk grease
fittings are installed in the axle to lubricate the spindle shafts for
easier steering and longevity of the bushings, it's recommended to install
these, too. For
preventive maintenance and smoother steering, lubricate
these parts through these parts through Zerk grease
fitting with an
automotive grease gun once a year. High quality
aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part #'s 741-3005, 941-3005.
$18.00/set of 4 bushings, plus shipping & handling. |
  Do-It-Yourself Weld-In Drop Vertical
Spindle Shafts. Make the front of your Cub Cadet competition
garden pulling tractor as low as it will go for better weight distribution
and more traction when pulling down the track! Lowers front end approximately
2-3/8" on wide and spread frame Cub Cadet garden tractor models 86, 108,
109, 128, 129, 149, 169, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 800, 882, 1000,
1050, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1535 or 1650.
Can also be used to construct custom-made front axles, such as for a mini-rod
pulling tractor. Standard length of installed [Cub Cadet] spindle shafts
is 3-1/8" for wheels with a 3" width center hub, but these are available
in any other length to accommodate the width of the center hub in your front
wheels. To install, cut off original spindle shafts flush with steering
knuckles, and depending on diameter of shafts, drill a 3/4" or 1" hole in
knuckles approximately 2-3/8" higher/upward from original shaft location.
For front tires to set perpendicular (exact 90° angle) with the ground,
replacement shafts will need to be positioned perpendicular with each knuckle,
then securely weld shaft to backside of knuckle for non-interference with
spacing of wheel/rim. A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by
Brian Miller. Please do not accept advertised copycat products of this kind.
(But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.)
 [Top of Page]
|
 Zerk
Grease Fittings. For preventive maintenance, if a grease fitting isn't
already installed, one should be installed in [one piece] wheel hubs or outer
tubing of a rotating shaft so the [unshielded] bearings/bushings or shaft
will last longer when lubricated once a year with an
automotive grease gun. Do not use a grease fitting on split
rim wheels. Remember - the moving part will likely wear more than the stationary
part. To install a grease fitting, drill a 13/64" hole, and use a 1/4-28
UNF TAPER hand tap to cut new threads for installation of the fitting.
Click or tap here to
learn how to professionally drill for and cut new threads. FYI - If a
grease fitting needs to be used in a thin-wall steel tubing (that's too thin
to cut deep enough threads into so the threads on the grease fitting will
not interfere with the inner shaft) to lubricate a moving inner shaft, weld
a
jam nut with 1/4-28 UNF threads on the tubing, then drill
a 3/16" hole nut/tubing, and install the grease fitting (with short threads)
in the nut. Remember - grease fittings provide
preventive maintenance when they're used regularly. Because
grease cost less than any major repair of equipment.
[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
|
How to Fix a Loose-Fitting Drag Link Arm -
To fix a
loose-fitting drag link arm on the narrow frame Cub Cadet garden tractor
models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 122, 123, 124, 125,
126 or 147, the hub must be "clamped" to the horizontal spindle. To do this...
How to Lengthen the Drag Link (link that goes between pitman arm to steering arm on spindle) When the Front Axle is Repositioned Forward:
Measure
the distance the front axle was moved forward. Make a note of the measurement.
Front Axle Assembly for IH Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72,
73, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127 and
147
Front Axle Assembly for IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractor models 86, 108,
109, 128, 129, 149, 169, 482, 582, 582 Special, 682, 782, 800, 1000, 1100,
1200, 1250, 1450 and 1650
Front Axle Assembly for MTD-built Cub Cadet garden tractor models 482,
580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 882, 1050, 1204, 1210, 1211,
1282 and 1512.
Front Axle for Cub Cadet garden tractor models 982, 984, 986, 1572, 1772,
1782, 1872, 1882, 1912, 1914, 2072, 2082, 2084, 2086, 2165, 2182 and
2284
Front Axle Assembly for Cub Cadet garden tractor models 1340, 1535, 1541,
1860 and 1862
Front Axle Assembly for Cub Cadet garden tractor models 1440, 1861, 1863
and 1864
How to Reinforce the Spindle Shafts (Steering Knuckles) on Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 147, 982, 984, 986, 1340, 1440, 1535, 1541, 1572, 1772, 1782, 1861, 1863, 1864, 1872, 1882, 1912, 1914, 2072, 2082, 2084, 2086, 2165, 2182, 2284, 1860 and 1862.
If the front tires on the narrow
frame Cub Cadet garden tractor models listed above look "dilapidated" (the
tops of the tires tilt inward), this means the spindle shafts are bent from
doing too many ground-pounding wheelies and weren't reinforced. If the spindle
shafts are bent, to prevent them from getting bent again...
To fix worn holes for the spindles in the axle itself on a narrow frame Cub Cadet garden tractor, the holes will need to be bored or reamed out and a couple of thin-wall bronze bushings pressed-in for the top and bottom ends of the hole. And remember - grease fittings provide preventive maintenance when they're used regularly. Because grease cost less than any major repair of equipment.
How to Reposition the Front End 2-3/8" Lower on Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Models 86, 108, 109, 128, 129, 149, 169, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1535 and 1650 -
Acquire a couple of grade 5
bolts, 3/4" diameter x 5" length.
A Pivoting Axle Vs. a Solid-Mounted Axle for Competition Pulling?
I've seen modified garden tractors with a swivel front axle and I've seen some modifieds with a solid-mounted axle. And I noticed that one doesn't pull any better than the other. So it seems it's just the pullers' preference if he or she wants a swivel or solid front axle. And about the only way to fix the looseness of the center pivoting pin hole is to have the axle bored for installation of thin wall bronze bushings, like the ones used for king pins in truck front axles. And remember - grease fittings provide preventive maintenance when they're used regularly. Because grease cost less than any major repair of equipment.
How to Repair Worn Pivot Pin Holes for the Front Axle -
Sometimes the pivoting pin in the center of the front axle will rust in place and then the pin will pivot in the holes in the support braces. When this happens, overtime the holes will become oblong and the axle will become unstable, causing sloppy steering. Well, to repair a tractor with worn pivot holes like the ones in the photo below Ê...
If the center hole in an axle is worn, this can be repaired by first boring the hole for a press-fit steel sleeve and then bore the sleeve so a new center pin (or grade 8 or stainless steel bolt) will fit snug in it. Or, you can also bore the hole in the axle and support bracket with a 20 millimeter diameter (equal to .7874") drill bit or reamer and install a hardened 20 mm bolt. It'll be a lot less work to do just do this.
Click
Here for Detailed Illustrated Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back
and Self-Propelled Garden Tractor Pulling Sled (Available
Soon)
FYI - The self-propelled garden tractor pulling sled that I built is such
an excellent design, I realized later that I made something very special
when other people copied after it. - Brian Miller
To place an order, send your item(s) for repairing,
and/or for customer service assistance, and FREE honest and accurate technical
support, please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501
W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-881-7229 (cell;
call, text or leave voicemail) or 1-573-554-9008 (land line). Please call
in your order or send an email with a list parts you need and your contact
information. Please call Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone, except
holidays. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian
on the phone, please be patient and understanding because I stutter.)
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
Payment Options. A-1 Miller's shop is open
to the public Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone, with an appointment
on weekends, except holidays. If you're the kind of person who don't trust
delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to
A-1 Miller's shop to personally
purchase parts, or drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly,
engine parts, etc., for repairing and/or rebuilding. Or visit the address
of our (old) shop mentioned above to drop off your engine, transmission,
transaxle, garden tractor, small motorized vehicle, etc. Please contact me
before coming so I'll be at my shop waiting for your arrival. When you visit
our shop, you will be dealing directly with the owner for the best customer
service. Directions to our (old) shop
|
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. "The road to a [trusted] friend's
house (or shop) is never long." Don't sacrifice quality workmanship for
distance. [Return To Previous Paragraph,
Section or Website]
By the way - As business is booming, we're going to relocate our business soon at 12091 N. Rt. B, Hallsville, MO 65255 with a bigger, better, fully insulated, heated and air-conditioned building/shop (shouse) so we can provide many more high quality parts and professional services, and hire more reliable and knowledgeable help to have our customer's parts orders fulfilled sooner, parts repairs and engine rebuilds performed promptly without delay. We will also offer custom welding fabrication jobs and other custom services. We will also provide pick up and delivery service and perform professional repairs for various small engines and lawn & garden equipment! Photos of our new building/shop are posted here! 12091 N. Rt. B, Hallsville, MO 65255 - Google Maps
To place an order, please call the number below Ê or send an email with your name, complete and correct postal address and phone number and so I can figure the total with shipping cost and USPS Tracking. For payment options for parts ordered or services performed, or to make a donation to my websites, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge), Western Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram Money Transfers. (If a part for a specific purpose is special ordered, your debit/credit card may be charged for the full amount or as a deposit right after your order is placed; please do not send your debit/credit card information in email!) Or you can pay A-1 Miller's through PayPal. (My PayPal account name is my email address. And be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment is for.) If sending a money order, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone number and a description of what the payment is for. My mailing address and phone number are below Ê . I'll make a note of your order, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send the parts to you as soon as I have everything in stock after I receive your payment.
IMPORTANT - When sending your part(s) to A-1 Miller's for rebuilding or repair, package everything securely so the item(s) won't get damaged in shipping and please include a note in the box with your name, mailing address, phone number (in case I have any questions) and a description of what you want done. When shipping heavy parts, it's best to put a slightly smaller box inside a larger box, to double the strength and integrity of the package. Because the clumsy "gorillas" or incompetent and uncaring workers that work for certain delivery services mishandle the heavy packages and don't care. And when the work is completed, I'll either call or email you an invoice with the total including shipping & handling.
Payment Options and We Ship to Canada and
Worldwide 
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent
by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged
item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service
Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal
Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S.
territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground
or equivalent services. We try to keep our shipping cost to customers within
reason. Therefore, we don't ship our products in a fancy-looking package
with our company name and/or logo on it because most customers will just
toss it in the trash after they remove the contents. And being there is no
USPS tracking number outside the US, all I can do is make sure I write your
address correctly on the customs form and on your package.
My websites are not set up to process orders and accept payments. Therefore, for payment options, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total amount for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge), Western Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram Money Transfers. If paying with a credit/debit card, please call me at either number below. To make a payment to me through PayPal, please click this link: https://www.paypal.me/PullingTractor. Or to make a payment to me (pullingtractor@aol.com) in the US through the Venmo app, please click this link: venmo.com. Or use Cash App to make a payment to me (pullingtractor@aol.com). And be sure to mention in PayPal, Venmo or Cash App a description of what the payment is for with your full name, postal address, phone number and email address. If sending a money order or cashier's check, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete mailing address, phone number, email address and a description of what the payment is for. I'll make a note of your order when I have all your information, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send everything on your list to you as soon as I have the parts in stock after I receive your payment.
à Return to Main Pulling Tips Page | Return To Previous Page | Various Vendors Related to Tractor Pulling | Top of Page
Copyright © 1996-Present. This website created, designed and maintained by Brian Miller.
Zinc-Plated Steel Nylon Insert
Steering Wheel Retaining Jam Locknut. Will not loosen under normal circumstances.
Fits all Cub Cadet garden tractors and other makes and models of garden tractors
with 5/8-18 UNF threads on steering shaft. IMPORTANT - For easier installation
of nut (and easier removal of steering wheel), use a 5/8-18 UNF
Zinc-Plated Steel Acorn/Crown/Dome
Steering Wheel Retaining Nut. When appearance matters. Fits all Cub Cadet
garden tractors and other makes and models of garden tractors with 5/8-18
UNF threads on steering shaft. IMPORTANT - For easier installation of
nut (and easier removal of steering wheel), use a 5/8-18 UNF
Flanged Plastic Bushings for Upper Steering Column Tube/Shaft.
Replace worn plastic bushing and retainer for easier steering and less wear
to lower bearings in steering box. Fits IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor
and certain Cub Cadet garden tractor models 72, 73, 86, 104, 105, 106, 107,
108, 109, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 582, 680, 782, 800,
982, 984, 986, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1250, 1450 and 1650, and various other later
makes and models of garden tractors without bushing retainer at top of steering
column tube.
Flanged Oil-Impregnated Thin-Wall
Bronze Bushing for Upper Steering Column Tube/Shaft. Replace worn OEM thin-wall
plastic bushing for easier steering and less wear to lower bearings in steering
box. Fits upper steering column tube/shaft with a bushing retainer (metal
adapter/reducer) originally installed in IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor
and Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 100, 102, 122 and 123, and various
other early makes and models of garden tractors. OEM bushing and retainer
can be replaced with flanged bushing and bearing listed below. Oil impregnated
means the hardened metal is porous to absorb oil and grease so it will last
longer. Also, the oil acts as a cushion between the bushing and shaft, adding
resistance to wear. Dimensions: 3/4" I.D. x 1.003" O.D. x 3/4" height
x 1-1/4" O.D. flange. No longer available from Cub Cadet. Replaces Cub Cadet
part # IH-866105-R1. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Flanged Oil-Impregnated Metal
Graphite Bushing for Upper Steering Column Tube/Shaft. Replace worn OEM plastic
bushing for easier steering and less wear to lower bearings in steering box.
Fits IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor and certain Cub Cadet garden
tractor models 72, 73, 86, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 124, 125, 126, 127,
128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 582, 680, 782, 800, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1100, 1200,
1250, 1450 and 1650, and various other later makes and models of garden tractors
without bushing retainer (see above). NOTE: Top of steering column tube
must be swaged (crimped inward to reduce diameter) with large pliers so bushing
will fit snug inside tube. Oil impregnated means the hardened metal
is porous to absorb oil and grease so it will last longer. Also, the oil
acts as a cushion between the bushing and shaft, adding resistance to wear.
Dimensions: 3/4" I.D. (19mm) x 1-3/8" O.D. (35mm) x 9/16" width x 1-1/2"
O.D. flange. Replaces Cub Cadet 941-3023. $3.50 each, plus shipping
& handling.
Flanged Sealed Ball Bearing
for Upper Steering Column Tube/Shaft. Replace worn OEM plastic bushing for
easier steering and less wear to lower bearings in steering box. Fits IH
Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor and certain Cub Cadet garden tractor
models 72, 73, 86, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128,
129, 147, 149, 169, 582, 680, 782, 800, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1100, 1200,
1250, 1450 and 1650, and various other later makes and models of garden tractors
without bushing retainer (see above). Dimensions: 3/4" I.D. (19mm) x 1-3/8"
O.D. (35mm) x 9/16" width x 1-1/2" O.D. flange. NOTE: Top of steering
column tube must tube be swaged (crimped inward to reduce diameter) with
large pliers so bearing will fit snug inside tube. These have hardened,
heated-treated steel races and balls, sealed on both sides and pre-packed
with grease for longer wear. These are NOT the low quality flanged
bearing that's available at most hardware stores. Replaces Cub Cadet
941-3023. $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Foam Rubber Dust/Grease Seal.
Fits older ROSS and newer CCC aluminum housing steering boxes in Cub Cadet
garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108,
109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 482, 580, 582,
680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211,
1250, 1282, 1340, 1440, 1450, 1512, 1535, 1541, 1604, 1606, 1641, 1650, 1710,
1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1860, 1861, 1863 and 1864. Also fits
Ford LGT, Jacobsen, John Deere, Massey Ferguson, MTD Farm King, Snapper,
Wheel Horse and various other early makes and models of garden tractors.
Will not fit Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor or IH Cub Lo-Boy. This part
replaces the seal in metal thrust plates/retainers IH-394936-R91 and 703-1031
(listed below). Replaces John Deere part # M41917. OEM Cub Cadet part # 923-3039.
$8.40 each, plus shipping & handling.
Metal Thrust Plate / Retainer.
Fits IH Cub Cadet "Original" Garden Tractor Steering Box. May also fit various
other early makes and models of early garden tractors. Will not fit later
models of Cub Cadet garden tractors, Ford LGT, Jacobsen, John Deere, Massey
Ferguson, MTD Farm King, Snapper, Wheel Horse or IH Cub Lo-Boy. If the opening
in your steering box match this part, then it will fit. Discontinued from
Cub Cadet. Part of OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-376478-R91. Used and in excellent
condition. $20.00± each, depending on source and availability,
plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
Metal Thrust Plate/Retainer. Fits
early ROSS aluminum housing steering box in Cub Cadet garden tractor models
70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124,
125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 482, 580, 582, 680, 682, 782, 782D,
784, 800, 882, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1604,
1606, 1650, 1710, 1711 and 1712. Also fits Ford LGT; Jacobsen; John Deere
models 110, 112, 120, 140, 300 and 316; Massey Ferguson; MTD Farm King; Snapper;
Wheel Horse and various other later makes and models of garden tractors with
the ROSS steering box. Will not fit Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor or
IH Cub Lo-Boy.
Metal Thrust Plate Retainer.
Fits newer CCC aluminum housing steering box in Cub Cadet garden tractor
models 1050, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1340, 1440, 1535, 1541, 1641, 1806, 1810,
1811, 1812, 1860, 1861, 1863 and 1864. May fit various other makes and models
of garden tractors with the ROSS steering box. Will not fit Cub Cadet "Original"
garden tractor or IH Cub Lo-Boy. Discontinued OEM Cub Cadet part # 703-1031.
$10.00± each, depending on source and availability, plus shipping
& handling. (When available.)
9/16" Diameter Cam Followers
(Adjustable Steering Pins). Replace worn cam follower for "tighter" and less
"sloppy" or "loose" steering. Fits IH- and MTD-built Cub Cadet garden tractor
models 982, 984, 986, 1050, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1340, 1440, 1535, 1541, 1641,
1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1860, 1861, 1863, 1912 and 1914. Does not include
Center Front Axle Pivot Pin
(Bolt). Fits all Cub Cadet spread frame garden tractor models 482, 580, 582,
680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 982, 984, 986, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1282, 1340, 1440,
1541, 1572, 1604, 1606, 1641, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1772, 1782, 1806, 1810, 1811,
1812, 1860, 1861, 1862, 1863, 1864, 1872, 1882, 1912, 1914, 2072, 2082, 2084,
2086, 2182 and 2284. Dimensions: 3/4-10 UNC x 5-1/4" length hardened steel
bolt with hole through threads for cotter pin. Reuse existing OEM castle
nut with a new cotter pin. IMPORTANT: For
Aircraft Quality
Protective Rubber Seals/Shields
for Heim joints listed above. These are a cup-shape neoprene rubber seal
bonded to an aircraft quality flat washer. When installed, rubber edge fits
snug against Heim joint body to prevent dust, dirt, debris and moisture from
entering the spherical ball, which will cause it to wear. Apply clean motor
oil on ball before installing seals for easier steering and to extend life
of Heim joint. Seals/shields for 1/4" Heim joint not available.
Steel Jam Nuts. These are about
half the thickness/width of ordinary nuts. Use these to secure tie rod end
joints or Heim joints to tie rod link or drag link to prevent loosening of
linkage and maintain proper toe-end alignment or length of linkage.
A-1 Miller's Modification
Service - Make the front of your Cub Cadet competition garden pulling
tractor as low as it will go for better weight distribution and more traction
when pulling down the track! This service includes installation of weld-in
drop vertical spindle shafts in YOUR steering knuckles to lower the front
end approximately 2-3/8" for wide or spread frame Cub Cadet garden tractor
models 86, 108, 109, 128, 129, 149, 169, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782,
800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512,
1535 or 1650. A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller.
because nobody else advertise this type of service.