Improving and Modifying the Steering for an IH Cub Cadet

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When building a garden tractor for pulling, it's best to remove and disassemble everything. Clean and inspect all the parts for wear, especially the steering parts. This is one area a lot of people overlook. Steering is very important and should never be neglected. Loose or worn steering parts can be dangerous. A puller may just tighten the steering box adjustments, inspect the tie rod ends and that's it. But there's more to it than just making adjustments...

Custom Steering WheelsReplace that worn, cracked (and not to mention boring looking) OEM steering wheel with a beautiful, automotive-style, small diameter (10" or 12") custom steering wheel! A custom steering wheel will improve the overall appearance of the whole tractor. An adapter and steering wheel are available at most auto supply parts stores and on eBay. The only automotive custom steering wheel installation adapter kit I found that fits close on a Cub Cadet steering shaft is a universal one made for most General Motors cars and trucks from 1949 to 1994 without telescopic steering. The GM adapter center spline has the correct diameter, but the number of splines are not a perfect fit, so it will need to be lightly tapped onto the Cub Cadet steering shaft. Or instead of using an adapter kit, the splined hub from an old GM steering wheel can be used on a Cub Cadet. But the three small holes in the hub will need to be enlarged and tapped for three 1/4" bolts for installation of the custom steering wheel. Or if you don't want to use the GM adapter, the splined hub from an old Cub Cadet steering wheel with the spokes cut off, and a large flat washer (with three tapped 1/4" bolt holes for installation of the custom steering wheel) welded to the adapter can be used.

To install a custom, automotive-style steering wheel on a Cub Cadet or virtually any garden tractor...

  1. First of all, there are several methods to remove the steering wheel from a Cub Cadet or virtually any garden tractor:
    • Install the retaining nut 90% on the threads of the steering shaft and give the nut a short blast with an air chisel.
    • If the above won't work, use a bearing separator with a steering wheel puller or an automotive harmonic balancer/vibration damper puller tool, and to save the old steering wheel, make sure the jaws of a gear puller won't break or crack the plastic.
    • If the above won't work either, then as the last resort, the splined hub will have to be heated or cut off with a torch to get it off the shaft. Be careful not to damage the shaft!
  2. DO NOT USE A [BIG] HAMMER ON THE SHAFT TO REMOVE THE STEERING WHEEL! Doing this could cause the internal threads in the lower part of the aluminum steering box to split (crack the case) or the box might break later, which could be very dangerous in pulling because the tractor could go out of control.
  3. Point the front tires forward, fasten the splined adapter on the steering shaft (with the choice of hardware below) and then fasten the steering wheel with the adapter facing in the straight ahead position.
  4. Install the three 1/4" bolts from the bottom up, install the steering wheel, and then install stainless steel acorn nuts with a split lock washer to the bolts (studs) to fasten the steering wheel for a nice looking and (rust-proof) professional look. Then to hide the (ugly) large center retaining nut, install a 15/16" stainless steel lug nut cover. These are made for semi tractor-trailers, which are available at most truck stops and on eBay. Or, to hide the three bolts and retaining nut, install a chrome-plated universal custom automotive horn button (center cap). To do this, machine a large flat washer in a metal lathe so the washer will be slightly larger than the inside diameter of the horn button. Fasten the washer in the steering wheel to the three 1/4" bolts with a couple of stacked smaller flat washers under the large washer. Snap the horn button onto the washer and that's it!

The steering boxes, inside and outside parts, are the same on all models of the IH and MTD Cub Cadets. The only difference is, the steering column/shaft tilts on the MTD models.

How To Fix Loose or "Sloppy" Steering Parts -

To improve the steering on an IH Cub Cadet, is to remove, disassemble, clean, inspect, repair as necessary, reassemble, adjust, then lubricate the steering box unit through the grease fitting. By the way - adjustments are made much easier with the unit out of the tractor.

Don't Be A Slob When Rebuilding A Steering Unit!

Always be professional whenever building or rebuilding anything! Before reassembling a steering unit, always take the time to provide a neat and absolutely clean work environment. Make sure that your tools, shop/business towels, steering parts and hands are clean, too. Don't allow any dust or dirt to enter the work bench or table, including the steering box and it's parts. If necessary, place the parts on a large, clean cloth or cardboard to keep them clean and organized until they're ready to be installed. The reason everything should be kept as clean as possible is because even the smallest bit of dirt inside a steering box will "grind away" at the internal parts, causing unnecessary wear.

How to remove the steering box/column unit from the tractor -

  1. Disconnect the battery.
  2. Remove the steering wheel. Despite how rusted-on or stuck-in-place it may be, the OEM steering wheel MUST come off before the steering box can be removed from the tractor.
  3. Remove the mower deck (if equipped).
  4. Remove the tie-rod end that's connected to the pitman arm plate (steering lever).
  5. Remove the two 9/16" bolts that fastens the steering box to the cross-member of the frame.
  6. The steering unit then slides out from under the tractor.

How to disassemble the steering unit -

  1. Exploded View of an IH Cub Cadet Steering Unit AssemblyRemove the pitman arm plate and shaft.
  2. Remove the cotter pin from the end cap.
  3. Remove the end cap with a large flat screwdriver or flat ratchet tool by turning it counterclockwise.
  4. Pull or slide the shaft out of the steering box. Use caution not to lose any of the ball bearings!
  5. Clean and inspect everything. Observe the metal bearing retainers for cracks or breakage. Replace if necessary.

How to reassemble the steering unit -

  1. Install the ball bearings in the plastic retainers. Apply some grease on the balls so they'll stay in place upon installation.
  2. Install the bearings on the shaft with the metal retainers to hold them in place.
  3. Carefully slide the shaft through the steering box and column until it's bottomed out. Make sure no ball bearings have fallen out of their retainers.
  4. Install the end cap, and tighten it until it's bottomed out. Rotate the shaft to make sure that no looseness or binding occurs.
  5. If the shaft feels like it's somewhat hard to rotate, back the end cap off until one of the notches match the hole, and then install the cotter pin. Back off the end cap slightly more so the notch will be snug against the cotter pin. Rotate the shaft again to make sure that no looseness or binding occurs.
  6. Pump some fresh grease (automotive chassis lube) in the steering box and on the steering gear. Fill it up with grease.
  7. If it isn't already installed, install the steering pin and locknut in the pitman arm plate (steering lever).
  8. Install the pitman arm plate and shaft, flat thrush washer and adjusting nut.
  9. Tighten down the adjusting nut until it's bottomed out and back it off an 1/8 of a turn. Install the lock nut and tighten it against the adjusting nut.
  10. Tighten down the steering pin until it's bottomed out and back it off about an 1/8 of a turn.
  11. Rotate the shaft all the way one way and the other. If binding occurs or if it feels a little too loose, adjust the steering pin until it feels satisfactory. But make the adjustments so the steering is a little "stiff." Because somehow, it will loosen up again somewhat overtime. Install the locknut.
  12. Pump a few ounces of fresh chassis lube through the grease fitting to make sure the unit is absolutely full.
  13. That's it! The steering unit is now fully assembled, lubricated and adjusted!

NOTE: Of all the IH Cub Cadet steering boxes that I've rebuilt, hardly any of them required new parts. But if new internal parts are needed in a rebuild, you can get them at virtually any Cub Cadet dealer. Most John Deere lawn & garden service centers and parts stores offers the same parts for the steering box in their models 110, 112, 120, 140, 200, 210, 212, 214, 216, 300, 312, 316 and 317. The steering box in these tractors, which is made by Ross, are very similar to the ones used in the IH Cub Cadets, except for the mounting holes. The internal parts are basically the same, but new parts are more expensive than new Cub Cadet parts. Most replacement parts that's needed to rebuild a steering box are as follows:

How to Fix a Worn Steering Pin -

Regrind the end of the OEM steering pin until it's conical-shaped again, or fabricate a new pin from a 1/2"-20 fine thread grade 8 bolt.

Ever had the steering column (long tube) get pulled out of the steering box on a Cub Cadet? Well, doing the below will guarantee that it will never get pulled out again -

  1. Remove the steering box/column assembly from the tractor.
  2. If the tube fits somewhat loose in the steering box, it can be expanded with use of an automotive exhaust pipe expander/spreader tool. (Available at virtually any auto parts store and on eBay.)
  3. Apply Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant or high strength threadlocker on the tube to prevent water and dirt from entering the steering box and then install it in the box until it bottoms out.
  4. Drill four 1/8" holes spaced 90° apart through the steering box and into the tube.
  5. Install 1/8" diameter x 3/8" long pop-rivets to permanently secure the tube to the steering box.

NOTE: If the upper part of the steering tube becomes damaged from removing the steering wheel, it can be straightened back to its original shape with the automotive exhaust pipe expander/spreader tool and a medium size hammer. The internal steering shaft must be removed, so the tool will work.

For more information on how to rebuild a Cub Cadet steering box unit, please see this web site: http://www.ihcubcadet.com/IHCCFAQ/SteeringBox.htm. If you're looking for a steering assembly or a steering part for your garden tractor, look in our advertisement web site or you can place a want ad in the same site.

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If you're interested in the item or service listed below, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-875-4033. Please call Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone, except holidays. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) Fax: 1-573-449-7347. E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. You can also contact us through Yahoo! Messenger: Find us here: Directions to our shop | Yahoo! Maps, 1501 W. Old Plank Rd., Columbia, MO | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest.

Steering Box Assembly Rebuild Service. I disassemble the entire steering unit. Then I clean and inspect all parts and replace anything that's excessively worn. Then I reassemble it, adjust it and lubricate it so it'll provide many more years of trouble-free service. $35.00 minimum labor. New parts, if needed, are extra charge.

Rebuilt IH Cub Cadet Steering Box Assemblies. (All IH Cub Cadets, except the Original, use the same steering box assembly.) $150.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

New Cam Follower Stud (Steering Pin). $20.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Click here for more of my parts and services.

Fixing Worn Tie Rod Ends -

  1. OEM-Quality Ball Joint & Aircraft-Quality Tie Rod Ends Remove the tie rod from the tractor.
  2. Thread a grade 8, 3/8" fine thread bolt into the tie rod and clamp the bolt in a bench vise.
  3. With the base of the tie rod resting on the jaws of the vise (to prevent bending the bolt), pound the end of the tie rod with a medium size hammer until the ball is snug in the socket.
  4. Lubricate the ball with ordinary motor oil.
  5. Reinstall on tractor, adjust toe-in.

NOTE: If a tie rod end is worn badly and you have doubt that it may fail in the future, by all means, replace it with a known good used one or a new one. Actually, it's best to use aircraft-quality ball-joint ends with a flat washer installed.

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If you need some new, heat treated OEM-quality tie-rod or aircraft-quality ball joint ends, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-875-4033. Please call Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone, except holidays. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) Fax: 1-573-449-7347. E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. You can also contact us through Yahoo! Messenger: Find us here: Directions to our shop | Yahoo! Maps, 1501 W. Old Plank Rd., Columbia, MO | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest.
New, Heat-Treated Tie Rod and Ball Joint Ends - (Can also be used for shifter and/or throttle joints on mini-rods, hot rods, race cars, etc.)

Here's the most common for direct replacements found on most lawn & garden tractors:

  • OEM-quality tie rod end with rubber dust seal. Has a 3/8-24 NF stud and 3/8-24 NF right-hand thread hole. Works great for general yard work and stock pulling tractors. Replaces Cub Cadet part # 923-3018. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM-quality tie rod end with rubber dust seal. Has a 3/8-24 NF stud and 3/8-24 NF left-hand thread hole. Works great for general yard work and stock pulling tractors. $10.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Heavy duty ball joint end (Heim joint). Has a 3/8-24 NF right-hand female threaded hole and a 3/8" i.d. hole. Extremely strong! Note: Ball joint ends are required in aircraft and heavy duty machinery because they're much stronger than ordinary tie rod ends. They're a direct replacement for tie rod ends on most lawn and garden equipment and all that's needed is a 3/8" minimum grade 5 bolt to secure it to the steering lever. And these do not come with a dust/dirt seal, so they'll wear more when used for general yard work if not protected with a rubber seal. And when used with the seals below, applying chassis lube (grease) to the balls in the Heim joints would help them operate smoother and last longer. $11.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Part # 170-166
  • Heavy duty ball joint end (Heim joint). Has a 3/8-24 NF left-hand female 3/8" threaded hole and a 3/8" i.d. hole. Extremely strong! Note: Ball joint ends are required in aircraft and heavy duty machinery because they're much stronger than ordinary tie rod ends. They're a direct replacement for tie rod ends on most lawn and garden equipment and all that's needed is a 3/8" minimum grade 5 bolt to secure it to the steering lever. And these do not come with a dust/dirt seal, so they'll wear more when used for general yard work if not protected. And when used with the seals below, applying chassis lube (grease) to the balls in the Heim joints would help them operate smoother and last longer. $11.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Part # 116-844
  • Rubber Dust/Dirt Shields for Heim joints above. These are a neoprene rubber seal bonded to an aircraft quality washer. Extends the life of Heim joints by keeping dirt, debris and moisture out of the spherical ball. These fit on both sides of the spherical ball. $12.00 per pair, plus shipping & handling.
  • Other sizes and styles of tie rod ends and Heim joints are available. Available in various styles, sizes and materials.
  • Click here for more of my parts and services.

Fabricate steering link for your tractor -
Fabricate steering link for your tractor. $20.00 each for parts & labor, plus shipping & handling. Depending on customer's preference, price does not include tie rod ends or ball joint ends (Heim joints).

Fixing a Loose Fitting Drag Link Arm -125, 127 & 147

Drag Link ArmTo fix a loose fitting drag link arm on the narrow frame Cub Cadets (models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126 and 147), the hub must be "clamped" to the spindle. To do this...

  1. Remove the drag link arm from the spindle.
  2. Use a hacksaw to cut a couple of slots in the hub 90° in relation to the roll-pin holes. Cut the slots about 90% down into the hub.
  3. Place the arm on the spindle and drill through all three (roll-pin) holes with a 3/8" drill bit.
  4. Acquire a hardened (grade 8) 3/8" bolt, split lock washer and hardened (grade 8) nut. Make sure the bolt has an unthreaded (shouldered) portion the same width as the diameter of the hub.
  5. Install the bolt in the hub and spindle and then torque the nut to 35 ft. lbs. so the hub is squeezed onto the spindle. NOTE: clamping the hub may weaken the factory spot weld. Therefore, the hub may need to be re-welded to the arm.

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Spiral (or coiled) roll pins - very strong!If you need some heavy duty 3/8" replacement spiral (or coiled) roll-pins for your 3-pin clutch drive plate or drag link arm and spindle (the holes in the drag link arm and spindle will need to be drilled to 3/8" for the roll pin to fit), please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-875-4033. Please call Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone, except holidays. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) Fax: 1-573-449-7347. E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. You can also contact us through Yahoo! Messenger: Find us here: Directions to our shop | Yahoo! Maps, 1501 W. Old Plank Rd., Columbia, MO | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest.
  • Hardened carbon steel material. Double shear strength: 7,800 p.s.i. Rockwell hardness: C46-C53. (Same quality as OEM Cub Cadet roll-pins.) (1/4" diameter x 1" [for rear of pressure spring and small diameter coupler] or 1-1/2" long [for pressure plates and large diameter coupler - $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 304 alloy stainless steel material. Type 420; Rockwell hardness: C46-C55. (1/4" diameter x 1" or 1-1/2" long) - $1.25 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Hardened carbon steel - 3/8" diameter x 1-1/2" long for the OEM 3-pin drive plate and drag link arm (the holes in the drag link arm and spindle will need to be drilled to 3/8" for this roll pin to fit): $1.50 each. (plus shipping).
  • When ordering, please specify the diameter and length(s) you need. Top of page È Click here for more of my parts and services.

How to lengthen the drag link (the steering link that connects the pitman arm to the front axle) when moving the front axle forward:

  1. Drag link (goes from steering box to axle)Measure the distance the front axle was moved forward. Make a note of the measurement.
  2. Center the steering wheel with the pitman arm facing straight down. IH Cub Cadets have a 1.75:1 steering ratio. To find the center of travel, place masking tape on the steering wheel, and rotate it one way to the extreme. Then return it with the tape being halfway of travel. Remove the tape and place it on the steering wheel facing forward and pitman arm facing straight down.
  3. With the tires facing forward, measure the center to center distance between the holes in the pitman arm and drag link arm. Make a note of this measurement.
  4. Cut the OEM drag link in half as shown in the drawing to the right.
  5. Acquire some 1/2" i.d. x 5/8" o.d. steel tubing of the distance the front axle was moved forward, plus 6" longer than the distance. This is important!
  6. Slide 3" of each cut end of the drag link rod inside the tubing. For strength and minimize flexibility, make sure there's at least 3" of the rod inside the tubing on each end. If the rod won't fit, it may need to be ground down and/or pressed in.
  7. Adjust the overall length of the lengthened drag link by sliding the rods back and forth in the tubing until the drag link has the added difference of how far the axle have been moved forward.
  8. Weld the tubing to the rods. But first, double check the front tires for facing forward and centering of the drag link arm (steering wheel)!
  9. Grind the weld smooth, paint and that's it!

IH and MTD Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Models That Share The Same Front Axle -

Front Axle for IH Cub Cadet Narrow Frame Models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127 and 147. (Part # 959-3011)

Front Axle for IH Cub Cadet Wide and Spread Frame Models 86, 108, 109, 128, 129, 149, 169, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1535 and 1650. (Part # 759-3270)

Front Axle for IH and MTD Cub Cadet Spread Frame Models 982, 984, 986, 1572, 1772, 1782, 1872, 1882, 1912, 1914, 2072, 2082, 2084, 2086, 2182 and 2284. (Part # 759-3271)

Front Axle for MTD Cub Cadet Spread Frame Models 1340, 1535, 1541, 1860 and 1862. (Part # 759-3549)

Front Axle for MTD Cub Cadet Spread Frame Models 1440, 1861, 1863 and 1864. (Part # 719-3100)

Reinforcing the Spindle Shafts (Steering Knuckles) on Cub Cadet Models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 147, 982, 984, 986, 1340, 1440, 1535, 1541, 1572, 1772, 1782, 1860, 1861, 1862, 1863, 1864, 1872, 1882, 1912, 1914, 2072, 2082, 2084, 2086, 2182 and 2284 -

If the front tires on the above Cub Cadet models look "dilapidated" (the tops of the tires tilt inward), this means the spindle shafts are bent from doing too many ground-pounding wheelies and weren't reinforced. If the spindle shafts are bent, to prevent them from getting bent again...

  1. Heat the spindle shafts with an oxy-acetylene torch in a hydraulic press to reposition them so the tires will set perpendicular with the ground. Or re-angle the spindle shafts so the tops of the tires will tilt slightly outward for that "tough" look.
  2. Install the spindles on the axle, then the tires, and stand back from the front of the tractor to visually check that the tires are positioned perpendicular with the ground. Adjust if necessary.
  3. Remove spindles if necessary and weld a 1/4" x 3/4" x 1-3/4" piece of mild steel (brace) in the bend section.

To fix worn holes for the spindles in the axle itself on a narrow frame Cub Cadet, the holes will need to be bored or reamed out and a couple of thin-wall bronze bushings pressed-in for the top and bottom ends of the hole.

How to Reposition the Front End 2-3/8" Lower on Cub Cadet Models 86, 108, 109, 128, 129, 149, 169, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1535 and 1650 -

  1. Acquire a couple of grade 5 bolts, 3/4" diameter x 5" long.
  2. Measure from under the bolt head out 3-1/4", and cut off the bolt, creating a couple of stub shafts that's 3-1/4" long when measured from under the head. (Best to use a small horizontal bandsaw. Cut the threaded end off, but leave the head of the bolt intact.)
  3. Chuck each stub shaft in the jaws of a metal lathe and machine the bolt head so it'll be round. Shorten the height of the head to about 3/8" so it will not make contact with the axle when installed.
  4. Turn the stub shaft around (end for end) in the chuck and bore a hole in the end of each shaft for a 3/8-16 NC wheel retaining bolt and flat washer.
  5. Remove the steering knuckles from the axle.
  6. Cut off the original spindle shafts flush with the steering knuckle.
  7. Drill a 3/4" hole (for the new spindle/stub shafts) 2-3/8" from the center of the original spindle shaft.
  8. Install the stub shafts in the 3/4" holes and securely weld the rounded/shortened bolt heads to the backside of each steering knuckle. For the tires to set perpendicular with the ground, before welding, make sure the shafts are positioned perpendicular (90°) to the flat on the knuckles!
  9. Install the steering knuckles on the axle, then the tires, and stand back from the front of the tractor to visually check that the tires are positioned perpendicular with the ground. Adjust if necessary.

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If you're interested in any of the parts or services below, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-875-4033. Please call Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone, except holidays. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) Fax: 1-573-449-7347. E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. You can also contact us through Yahoo! Messenger: Find us here: Directions to our shop | Yahoo! Maps, 1501 W. Old Plank Rd., Columbia, MO | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. Click here for more of my parts and services.

Do-it-yourself weld-in spindle shafts to lower front end as much as 2-3/8" on wide and spread frame Cub Cadets. To install, cut off original spindle shafts and drill a 3/4" hole in steering knuckles 2-3/8" higher than original shafts. Replacement shafts will need to be positioned perpendicular (90°) with steering knuckle and then weld to backside of knuckle for non-interference with spacing of wheel. Has 3/8-16 NC threaded hole in end of each shaft for wheel retaining bolt/washer (not included). Machined from hardened grade 5 bolts. $30.00 per set of two, plus shipping & handling.

Installation Service: Install weld-in spindle shafts to lower front end as much as 2-3/8" for your wide and spread frame Cub Cadet. $50.00 parts and labor for two spindles, plus return shipping & handling.

Installation Service: Weld brace to reinforce spindle shafts for your narrow frame Cub Cadet: $25.00 parts and labor for two spindles, plus return shipping & handling.

A Pivoting Axle Vs. a Solid-Mounted Axle for Pulling Competition?

I've seen modified garden tractors with a swivel front axle and I've seen some modifieds with a solid-mounted axle. And I noticed that one doesn't pull any better than the other. So it seems it's just the pullers' preference if he or she wants a swivel or solid front axle. And about the only way to fix the looseness of the center pivoting pin hole is to have the axle bored for installation of thin wall bronze bushings, like the ones used for king pins in truck front axles.

How to Repair Worn Pivot Pin Holes for the Front Axle -

Sometimes the pivoting pin in the center of the front axle will rust in place and then the pin will pivot in the holes in the support braces. When this happens, overtime the holes will become oblong and the axle will become unstable, causing sloppy steering. Well, to repair a tractor with worn pivot holes like the ones in the picture below...

  1. Drill or ream the holes in the braces to exactly 1.000".
  2. Fabricate a steel reducer sleeve bushing (spacer) that measures 3/4" i.d. x 1.003" o.d. for a press-fit.
  3. Press each bushing in the holes of the braces. Make sure the bushings are aligned properly so the pin will rotate freely to prevent binding.
  4. Tack weld the edge of each bushing on the outside of the braces.
  5. The center line of the OEM hole in the bracket is 1-1/8" from the frame. But this will be altered due to the offset of the bushing.

If the center hole in an axle is worn, this can be repaired by first boring the hole for a press-fit steel sleeve and then bore the sleeve so a new center pin (or grade 8 or stainless steel bolt) will fit snug in it. Or, you can also bore the hole in the axle and support bracket with a 20 millimeter diameter (equal to .7874") drill bit or reamer and install a hardened 20 mm bolt. It'll be a lot less work to do just do this.

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If you need any of the items listed below for your garden tractor, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-875-4033. Please call Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone, except holidays. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) Fax: 1-573-449-7347. E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. You can also contact us through Yahoo! Messenger: Find us here: Directions to our shop | Yahoo! Maps, 1501 W. Old Plank Rd., Columbia, MO | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. Click here for more of my parts and services.

Heavy duty, flanged upper steering shaft/column bushings and bearing for virtually all Cub Cadets, John Deere and other makes & models of garden tractors. When ordering, please specify which part you need.
Bronze. For models with metal cap on steering column. 3/4" i.d. x 1.003" o.d. x 3/4" height x 1-1/4" o.d. flange. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Graphite. For models without metal cap on steering column. 3/4" i.d. x 1-3/8" o.d. x 9/16" width x 1-1/2" o.d. flange. (Same as wheel bushing below.) $3.50 each, plus shipping & handling. Sealed (both sides) w/grease ball bearing flanged bearing. For models without metal cap on steering column. Makes steering MUCH easier! These have hardened, heated-treated steel races and roller balls inside and are pre-packed with grease so they will last longer. Size: 3/4" i.d. x 1-3/8" o.d. x 1/2" width x 1-1/2" o.d. flange. (Same as heavy duty wheel bearing to the right.) $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Part # 150-020

Front Wheel Bushings/Bearings, Front Tires, Front Wheels, Inner Tubes and Wheelie Bar Wheels -
If you need any of the items listed below for your garden tractor, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-875-4033. Please call any day, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone, except holidays. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) Fax: 1-573-449-7347. E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. You can also contact us through Yahoo! Messenger: Find us here: Directions to our shop | Yahoo! Maps, 1501 W. Old Plank Rd., Columbia, MO | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest.
Wheel Bushing -

Heavy duty, low speed (up to 5 mph), oil-impregnated metal graphite flange wheel bushing. Universal fit. Dimensions: 3/4" i.d. x 1-3/8" o.d. x 9/16" width (1/2" fits inside the wheel hub), flange o.d. is 1-1/2". Oil impregnated means the hardened metal is porous to absorb oil and grease so it will last longer. The oil acts as a cushion between the bearing and shaft, adding resistance to wear. These last a long time as long as they're lubricated with grease (chassis lube) regularly. If there is no grease fitting in the hub of the wheel, then one will need to be installed. Our part # 09-3305. $3.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
Wheel Bushing -

Heavy duty, low speed (up to 5 mph), oil-impregnated metal graphite flange wheel bushing for the "Original" Cub Cadet with 7/8" diameter front spindle shafts and 1-3/8" inside diameter wheels. Dimensions: 7/8" i.d. x 1-3/8" o.d. x 9/16" width (1/2" fits inside the wheel hub), flange o.d. is 1-1/2". Oil impregnated means the hardened metal is porous to absorb oil and grease so it will last longer. The oil acts as a cushion between the bushing and shaft, adding resistance to wear. These last a long time as long as they're lubricated with grease (chassis lube) once a year. If there is no grease fitting in the hub of the wheel, then one will need to be installed. These are the same as above except being there are no bearings or bushings this size available from any source besides Cub Cadet, I bore them to 7/8" in my metal lathe. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-384881-R94. Our part # 09-3305. $3.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
Wheel Bushing -

Heavy duty, low speed (up to 5 mph), oil-impregnated metal graphite flanged wheel bushing for Cub Cadets with 1" diameter front spindle shafts and 1-3/8" inside diameter wheels/hubs. Dimensions: 1" i.d. x 1-3/8" o.d. x 1" wide x 1-1/2" o.d. flange. Oil impregnated means the hardened metal is porous to absorb oil and grease so it will last longer. The oil acts as a cushion between the bushing and shaft, adding resistance to wear. These last a long time as long as they're lubricated with grease (chassis lube) once a year. If there is no grease fitting in the hub of the wheel, then one will need to be installed. These are the same as above except being there are no bearings or bushings this size available from any source, I bore them to 1" in my metal lathe. Our part # 09-3305. $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Wheel Bearing -

Heavy duty, low speed (up to 20 mph), sealed (both sides) w/grease ball bearing flanged front wheel bearing. These have hardened, heated-treated steel races and roller balls inside and are pre-packed with grease so they will last longer. Dimensions: 3/4" i.d. x 1-3/8" o.d. x 1/2" width (3/8" fits inside wheel hub) x 1-1/2" o.d. flange. Universal fit for many makes and models of garden tractors. Will hold up to a lot of weight and rough abuse. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-384881-R94. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Our part # 150-020
Wheel Bearing -

Heavy duty, low speed (up to 20 mph), sealed (both sides) ball bearing flanged front wheel bearing. These have hardened, heated-treated steel races and roller balls inside and are pre-packed with grease so they will last a long time. Dimensions: 1" i.d. x 2" o.d. x 9/16" width (1/2" fits inside wheel hub), flange o.d. is 2-1/8". Universal fit. Will hold up to a lot of weight and rough abuse. Replaces Cub Cadet part # 941-3002. $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Our part # 150-023
NOTE: Other sizes and styles of bearings and bushings are available. Please let us know what you need and I can probably get it for you at a reasonable price.
2-ply Sawtooth Tread Tubeless Tires - NOTE: Appearance of tractor will look better and tractor will pull better when the front axle is moved forward with these smaller tires.
  • 4.10/3.50 - 4 size. Inflated dimensions: 4.1" width of sidewall bulge x 11" overall height x 4" rim diameter. Made by Carlisle. $22.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 4.10/3.50 - 5 size. Inflated dimensions: 4.1" width of sidewall bulge x 12" overall height x 5" rim diameter. Made by Carlisle. $26.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 4.10/3.50 - 6 size. Inflated dimensions: 4.1" width of sidewall bulge x 13" overall height x 6" rim diameter. Perfect proportional size to the 26-12.00x12 rear tires on small wheel mini-rods! Made by Carlisle. $26.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
2-Ply Rib Tread Tubeless Tires - NOTE: Appearance of tractor will look better and tractor will pull better when the front axle is moved forward with these smaller tires.
  • 11 x 400 - 5 size. Inflated dimensions: 11" overall height x 4" width of sidewall bulge x 5" rim diameter. Made by Cheng Shin. $26.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 13 x 500 - 6 size. Inflated dimensions: 11" overall height x 4" width of sidewall bulge x 5" rim diameter. Perfect proportional size to the 26-12.00x12 rear tires on small wheel mini-rods! Made by Cheng Shin. $26.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Two-Piece, Bolt-Together Steel Wheels for Easier Mounting and Dismounting - Accepts 1-3/8" o.d. bearings or bushings (not included); use with inner tube.
  • 4" wheel. Painted white. Dimensions: 4" diameter x 2-1/2" wide x 2-1/8" width centered hub. Two wheels weighs 3 lb. 8 oz. $21.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 5" wheel. Painted white. Dimensions: 5" diameter x 2-3/4" wide x 2-1/4" width centered hub. Two wheels weighs 4 lb. 6 oz. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 6" wheel. Painted white. Dimensions: 6" diameter x 3-1/4" wide x 3-1/2" width centered hub. Two wheels weighs 5 lb. 4 oz. $30.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Inner Tubes - Each have a straight valve stem; Made by Cheng Shin.
  • For 4" tire and wheel. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • For 5" tire and wheel. $5.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • For 6" tire and wheel. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Wheelie Bar Wheels -

Plastic Wheelie Bar Wheels with spherical (rounded) tread surface. Dimensions: 5" tall x 2" wide x 5/8" center hole. Our part # 07-11819.

  • $8.00 per pair, plus shipping & handling.

Linked pages to our parts & services:

A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises
Offering Quality Products and Professional Workmanship at Reasonable Prices!

Engine Rebuild Parts, Engine Rebuilds, Build-ups, Exhaust Header Pipe Kits & Machine Shop Services

Carburetor, Fuel System Parts & Machine Shop Services

Clutch Parts, Rebuilds & Machine Shop Services

Transmission, Transaxle Parts, Rebuilds & Machine Shop Services

Steering, Chassis Parts & Machine Shop Services

Ignition, Electrical and Crank Trigger Electronic Ignition Parts and Kits

Miller's Pulling Sled Services
HOT ROD GARDEN TRACTOR PULLERS ASSOCIATION

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