Serving the Small Engine and Garden Tractor Pulling Community Since
1996. Where Science and Common Sense Come Together for Safety and Better
A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises - Parts & Services Online Catalog
FOR SALE: Professionally Built Self-Propelled Pulling Sled for ATVs/UTVs, Garden Tractors & Small Wheel Mini Rods. $25,000.00 or best offer. Go here for information, YouTube videos and more pictures of this sled: HRGTPA.com. If interested, contact Brian Miller at 573-881-7229 (cell; text or voice mail). We're planning to move up to bigger and better pulling entertainment.
Last update: 10/29/18 (Click Refresh to see changes or updates.) Optimized for 1024 x 768 screen resolution. To search for a word or phrase in any of my web sites, press CTRL and F to open the Find dialog box in your web browser.
When building a garden tractor for pulling, it's best to remove and disassemble everything. (This is much easier to do on a platform work table.) Clean and inspect all the parts for wear, especially the steering parts. This is one area a lot of people overlook. Steering is very important, especially in pulling, and should never be overlooked or neglected. Loose or worn steering parts can be dangerous. A puller may just tighten the steering box adjustments, inspect the tie rod ends and that's it. But there's more to it than just making proper adjustments...
How to Remove the Steering Wheel from a Cub Cadet or Virtually Any Garden Tractor with a ROSS Steering Assembly - There are several ways to remove the steering wheel from a Cub Cadet or virtually any garden tractor with the ROSS steering assembly.
DO NOT STRIKE THE END OF THE SPLINED SHAFT WITH A BIG HAMMER IN AN ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THE STEERING WHEEL! Doing this could cause the internal threads in the lower part of the cast aluminum steering box housing to split and crack the case, or the bottom of the steering box could break off later, which would be dangerous because the tractor might go out of control, especially when pulling on the track.
(Added 10/29/18) To prevent damage to the threads on the steering shaft, install an ordinary length 5/8-18 UNF nut on the shaft threaded down until flush with the end of the threads, and while pulling upward on the steering wheel with your hands (help may be needed), give the nut a short blast with an air chisel. Do not use the short OEM steering wheel retaining nut because threads on the shaft may become damaged. AND DO NOT USE A BIG HAMMER! If the end of the steering shaft was hammered on without the nut installed in an effort to remove the steering wheel, which messed up the threads, well, there two ways to fix this... (A-1 Miller's provides this service, too.)
The easy way to fix this is...
The more complicated way to fix this and retain the OEM look of the stud with the retaining nut is...
Replace that worn, cracked (and not to mention unsightly and plain/boring looking!) OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) steering wheel with an attractive, hot rod/automotive-style, small diameter (10" or 12") custom steering wheel or a chrome spoke steering wheel! A custom or chrome spoke steering wheel will improve the overall appearance of the entire tractor.
To adapt a custom steering wheel to the steering shaft, and if the splines and threads on the steering shaft are in good condition, the only automotive custom steering wheel installation adapter kit I found that fits close on a Cub Cadet splined steering shaft is an aftermarket early GM steering wheel hub adapter kit (Grant part # 3196) made for most General Motors cars and trucks from 1949 to 1994 without telescopic steering. Leave out the horn switch plate and install multiple flat washers on the supplied steering wheel mounting bolts so the steering wheel will be tight against the hub. Use the OEM Cub Cadet steering wheel retaining nut or a 5/8-18 UNF nut with a flat washer to secure the steering wheel and hub to the steering shaft. The GM adapter center spline has the correct diameter, but the number of splines are not a perfect fit, so it will need to be gently tapped onto the Cub Cadet steering shaft. Or the center splined hub from a 1949 to 1994 OEM GM steering wheel can be used instead. But the three small holes in the hub will need to be enlarged and tapped for three 1/4" bolts for installation of the custom steering wheel. Or if you don't want to use the GM adapter, the splined hub from an old Cub Cadet steering wheel with the spokes cut off, and a large flat washer (with three tapped 1/4" bolt holes for installation of the custom steering wheel) welded to the adapter can be used. Once the steering wheel is removed, position the front tires forward, fasten the splined adapter on the steering shaft (with the choice of hardware below Ê), then fasten the steering wheel with the adapter facing in the straight ahead position.
Install the three 1/4" bolts from the bottom up, install the steering wheel, then install stainless steel acorn nuts with a split lock washer to the bolts (studs) to fasten the steering wheel for a nice looking and (rust-proof) professional look. Then to hide the (unsightly) large center retaining nut, install a 15/16" stainless steel lug nut cover. These are made for semi tractor-trailers, which are available at most truck stops and on eBay. Or, to hide the three bolts and retaining nut, install a chrome-plated universal custom automotive horn button (center cap). To do this, machine a large flat washer in a metal lathe so the washer will be slightly larger than the inside diameter of the horn button. Fasten the washer in the steering wheel to the three 1/4" bolts with a couple of stacked smaller flat washers under the large washer. Snap the horn button onto the washer and that's it! Snap the horn button onto the washer and that's it!
How To Fix Loose or "Sloppy" Steering Parts -
To improve the steering on an IH Cub Cadet, is to remove, disassemble, clean, inspect, repair as necessary, reassemble, adjust, then lubricate the steering box unit with automotive grease through the grease (Zerk) fitting. By the way - adjustments are made much easier with the steering Box Assembly out of the tractor.
Don't Be A Slob When Rebuilding A Steering Unit!
Always be professional whenever building or rebuilding anything! Before reassembling a steering unit, always take the time to provide a neat and absolutely clean work environment. Make sure that your tools, shop/business towels, steering parts and hands are clean, too. Don't allow any dust or dirt to enter the work bench or table, including the steering box and it's parts. If necessary, place the parts on a large, clean cloth or cardboard to keep them clean and organized until they're ready to be installed. The reason everything should be kept as clean as possible is because even the smallest bit of dirt inside a steering box will "grind away" at the internal parts, causing unnecessary wear.
How to remove the steering box/column unit from the tractor - (This is much easier to do on a platform work table.)
How to disassemble the steering unit -
How to reassemble the steering unit -
NOTE: If new internal steering box parts are needed in a rebuild, you can get them at virtually any Cub Cadet dealer. Most John Deere lawn & garden service centers and parts stores offers the same parts for the steering box in their models 110, 112, 120, 140, 200, 210, 212, 214, 216, 300, 312, 316 and 317. The steering box in these tractors, which is made by ROSS, are very similar to the ones used in the IH Cub Cadet, except for the mounting holes. The internal parts are basically the same, but new John Deere parts are more expensive than new Cub Cadet parts.
Ever had the steering column (long tube) get pulled out of the steering box on a Cub Cadet? Well, doing the below Ê will guarantee that it will never get pulled out again -
NOTE: If the upper part of the steering tube becomes damaged from removing the steering wheel, it can be straightened back to its original shape with the automotive exhaust pipe expander/spreader tool and a 2-3 lb. hammer. The internal steering shaft must be removed, so the tool will work.
If a tie rod end is badly worn and performing the above È doesn't "tighten" it, and you have doubts that it may fail in the future, then by all means, replace it with a known good used one or a new one. Actually, for heavy lawn and garden use or for a pulling tractor, it's best to use aircraft-quality ball-joint ends (Heim joints) with a flat washer and rubber dust/dirt shields installed.
|If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org. When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle, tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)|
|3/8" Diameter x 1-1/2" length Spiral Pins for OEM 3-pin clutch drive plate and [narrow frame Cub Cadet] drag link steering arm. Hardened carbon steel. Minimum Rockwell hardness is C42. NOTE: The holes in the drag link arm and spindle may need to be drilled exactly to 3/8" (.375") for this pin to fit. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.|
|Steering Assembly Rebuild
Service for all models of IH Cub Cadet "Original", IH- and MTD-built (CCC)
Cub Cadet, Ford LGT, Jacobsen, John Deere, Massey Ferguson, MTD Farm King,
Snapper, Wheel Horse and various other makes and models of garden tractors
with the CCC or ROSS aluminum housing steering box. Rebuild service
includes: completely disassemble steering Box Assembly, clean and inspect
all parts, replace or repair anything that's worn, reassemble, lubricate,
then make necessary adjustments to all moving parts so it'll provide many
years of trouble-free service. NOTE: The Easy Steer
Upgrade Kit will NOT work on the steering box with the pivot shaft bolt NOT
welded to the steering arm in MTD-built Cub Cadet models 782, 784, 786, 1340,
1440, 1535, 1541, 1810, 1811, 1861, 1863, 1912 and 1914 because the protruding
threads are too short.
Rebuilt IH Cub Cadet Steering Box Assemblies. Fits all IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractors, except Cub Cadet "Original" and Cub Lo-Boy.
Rebuilt IH Cub Cadet "Original" Steering Box Assembly.
|"Easy Steer" Upgrade Kit.
Makes for smoother, effortless and easier steering. Fits all IH- and certain
MTD-built Cub Cadet, John Deere, Massey Ferguson, Ford LGT, Jacobsen, MTD
Farm King, Wheel Horse and various other makes and models of garden tractors
with the CCC or ROSS aluminum housing steering box, except Cub Lo-Boy.
Provides slightly less effort when steering tractor. Each kit includes new
high quality pre-lubricated sealed thrust ball bearing and nylon-insert lock
nut. Replaces OEM double
washer on 5/8" or 3/4" diameter pitman arm stud. Install bearing with
shielding (wording on bearing) against steering box, and tighten nut to remove
looseness, then back off until pitman arm rotates freely without binding.
NOTE: The Easy Steer Upgrade Kit will NOT work on the
steering box with the pivot shaft bolt NOT welded to the steering arm in
MTD-built Cub Cadet models 782, 784, 786, 1340, 1440, 1535, 1541, 1810, 1811,
1861, 1863, 1912 and 1914 because the protruding threads are too short.
|Teflon Thrust Washers for Steering Knuckles (Front Spindle
Shafts). Makes for smoother, effortless and easier steering. Fits Cub Cadet
"Original" and Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 108, 109,
122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 482, 580, 582, 582
Special, 680, 682, 782, 800, 882, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1050, 1202, 1204,
1210, 1250, 1450, 1650, 1282, 1340, 1440, 1450, 1512, 1535, 1541, 1572, 1604,
1606, 1641, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1772, 1782, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1860,
1861, 1862, 1863, 1864, 1872, 1882, 1912, 1914, 2072, 2082, 2086, 2182 and
2284, and various other makes and models of garden tractors with 3/4", 7/8"
or 1" diameter front spindle shafts. Made of very tough, long wearing and
(PTFE) plastic material. Use ordinary automotive chassis grease when
lubricating front spindles. Eliminates metal to metal friction, which can
result in hard steering, reduces steering effort about 85% and prevents wear
to axle and steering knuckles. Works great for general lawn and garden use,
and/or tractors with a heavy snow plow and/or front loading bucket. Installs
where steering knuckles makes contact with underneath of axle (load-bearing
and friction area). Go here for more information:
Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE): Complete Guide.
|Complete Lower Steering Box
Bearing and Cup/Race Kits. Fits all models of IH- and MTD-built (CCC) Cub
Cadet, Cub Lo-Boy models 154, 184 and 185, Ford LGT, Jacobsen, John Deere,
Massey Ferguson, MTD Farm King, Snapper, Wheel Horse, and various other makes
and models of garden tractors with the CCC or ROSS aluminum housing
steering box. Kit includes (16) 5/16" diameter steel balls, two nylon retainers
and two .870" i.d. x 1.500" o.d. hardened steel cups/races. FYI - I've
researched all models of the IH- and MTD-built Cub Cadet steering boxes,
and they all use the same bearing/race kit and all dimensions are the same.
Replaces John Deere part # AM31924 and OEM Cub Cadet part # 941-3021 (w/o
races) and OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-71930-C91 (with races).
|Foam Rubber Dust/Grease
Seal for Steering Box. Fits ROSS and CCC aluminum housing steering boxes
in certain models of IH- and MTD-built Cub Cadet garden tractors, Ford LGT,
Jacobsen, John Deere, Massey Ferguson, MTD Farm King, Snapper, Wheel Horse
and various other makes and models of garden tractors. Will not fit Cub Cadet
"Original" or IH Cub Lo-Boy. Dimensions: 2" width x 3-9/16" length. If yours
match this part, then it will fit your steering box.
|Metal Thrust Retainer (Metal
Cover) for Foam Rubber Dust/Grease Seal above. Fits ROSS and CCC aluminum
housing steering boxes in certain models of IH- and MTD-built Cub Cadet garden
tractors, Ford LGT, Jacobsen, John Deere, Massey Ferguson, MTD Farm King,
Snapper, Wheel Horse and various other makes and models of garden tractors.
Will not fit Cub Cadet "Original" or IH Cub Lo-Boy. Dimensions: 2-1/8" overall
width x 3-3/4" overall length. If yours match this part, then it will fit
your steering box.
1/2" Cam Followers (Steering Pins). Fits Cub Cadet "Original" and IH Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 100, 102, certain 122's and 123's, 128, 129, 149 and 169. Dimensions: 1/2-20 UNF (fine thread) threads x 1.700"± overall length. Can be used as an alternative for cam follower listed below Ê (aftermarket or IH-62806-C2). Cam followers do not include jam nut.
1/2" Cam Followers (Steering Pins). Fits IH- and MTD-built Cub Cadet models 72, 73, 86, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, certain 122's and 123's, 124, 125, 126, 127, 147, 482, 582, 682, 782, 800, 882, 1000, 1200, 1250, 1450 and 1650. Dimensions: 1/2-20 UNF (fine thread) threads x 1.740"± overall length. Can be used as an alternative for cam followers listed above È (aftermarket or IH-379992-R1). Cam followers do not include jam nut.
9/16" Cam Follower (Steering Pin). Fits IH- and MTD-built Cub Cadet models 982, 984, 986, 1050, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1340, 1440, 1535, 1541, 1641, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1860, 1861, 1863, 1912 and 1914. Dimensions: 9/16-18 UNF (fine thread) threads x 1.750"± overall length. Cam followers do not include jam nut.
|Upper Steering Shaft Bushings and Bearings -
Fits Steering Box Assemblies in certain Cub Cadet models 72, 73, 86, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 582, 680, 782, 800, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1250, 1450 and 1650, and various other makes and models of garden tractors without bushing retainer on end of steering column tube. Each listed below Ê can be used to replace OEM bushing and retainer on above È model steering columns. Dimensions: 3/4" i.d. x 1-3/8" o.d. x 9/16" width x 1-1/2" o.d. flange.
|Steering Wheel Retaining Nut and Flat Washer. Nylon insert
zinc-plated steel locknut; will not loosen under normal circumstances. Fits
Cub Cadet and other makes and models of garden tractors with 5/8-18 UNF (fine
thread) threads on steering shaft. Washer goes under nut to evenly distribute
|Bronze Front Axle
Bushings for Garden Tractors with 3/4" or 1" Diameter Spindle Shafts. When
replacing existing OEM bushings, accurately measure the i.d. x o.d. x length
for replacements of same size. Or use these to replace existing worn bushings
or repair worn (oblong) axle spindle holes when no bushings are originally
installed (when the spindles make metal to metal contact with the cast iron
axle). If no bushings were originally installed in the axle, then spindle
holes must be professionally precision-aligned bored (machined) to accept
bushings. Other sizes of bushings are available. Please let A-1 Miller's
know what you need and I can probably get it for you at a reasonable
price.NOTE: If no grease (Zerk) fittings
are installed in the axle to lubricate the spindle shafts and for easier
steering and longevity of the bushings, it'll be a good idea to install these,
(Zerk) Fittings. Use a 1/4-28 UNF (fine thread) hand tap to cut new
threads for installation of a new fitting.
Click or tap here
to learn how to professionally drill for and cut new threads.
Return To Previous Section
|Heavy Duty Tie Rod Ends with
integrated rubber dust seal. Very strong. Dust seal extends life of tie rod
end. Most common direct OEM replacements found on many makes and models of
lawn and garden tractors. Can be used on riding mowers, lawn and garden tractors,
garden pulling tractors, compact tractors, mini-rods, recreational vehicles,
automotive throttle linkages, automotive transmission shifter linkages, etc.
Secure to lever with a self-locking nut, or nut and split lock washer.
Extreme Duty Ball Joint Ends (Heim Joints). Aircraft quality; extremely strong! Upgrade from OEM tie rod ends. Can be used on riding mowers, lawn and garden tractors, garden pulling tractors, compact tractors, mini-rods, recreational vehicles, automotive throttle linkages, automotive transmission shifter linkages, etc. Secure to lever with a minimum grade 5 bolt, two flat washers (when used without rubber seals) and a self-locking nut, or nut and split lock washer. NOTE: Ball joint ends are required in aircraft and heavy duty machinery because they're much stronger than ordinary tie rod ends. They're a direct replacement for tie rod ends on most lawn and garden equipment. These do not come with a dust/dirt shield, so they'll wear more when used for general lawn and garden use if not protected with rubber seals. Also, when used with the protective seals below Ê, apply motor oil to the ball in the Heim joints to help them operate smoother and last longer.
Rubber Dust/Dirt Seals/Shields for Heim joints above È. These are a cup-shaped neoprene rubber seal bonded to an aircraft quality flat washer. Rubber edge fits snug against Heim joint to prevent dust, dirt, debris and moisture from entering spherical ball. Apply motor oil on ball before installing seals to extend the life of the Heim joint. Seals for 1/4" Heim joints not available.
Other sizes and styles of tie rod ends and Heim joints are available. Available in various styles, sizes and materials. Please contact us if you're interested in any of these parts or services.
Fabricate Steering Link Assembly (Tie Rod or Drag Link) for your Garden Tractor, Mini-Rod, etc. NOTE: When ordering, please specify model of Cub Cadet garden tractor, or exact length of link from center of mounting studs (tie rods) or center of mounting bolts (Heim joints), and size of tie rods or ball joints.
|A-1 Miller's Modification
Service - Install weld-in spindle shafts in YOUR steering knuckles to
lower front of tractor 2-3/8"±
for wide or spread frame Cub Cadet model 86, 108, 109, 128, 129, 149, 169,
582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100, 1200, 1204,
1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1535 and 1650. An innovative concept
by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this type of service.
Retaining Bolts and Flat Washers for Front Wheels. Includes two 3/8-16 UNC (coarse thread) x 3/4" length grade 8 bolts and two 1/8" thickness x 1-1/4" wide flat washers. $5.00 per set of two each, plus shipping & handling.
Do-It-Yourself Weld-In Spindle Shafts to lower front end 2-3/8"± on wide and spread frame Cub Cadet models 86, 108, 109, 128, 129, 149, 169, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1535 or 1650 for better weight transfer in competition pulling. Can also be used to construct custom-made front axles, such as for a mini-rod pulling tractor. Standard length of [Cub Cadet] shaft is 3-1/8" for wheels with a 3" width center hub, but available in any other lengths to accommodate the width of the hub in your front wheels. To install, cut off original spindle shafts flush with steering knuckle, and drill a 3/4" hole in steering knuckles 2-3/8"± higher than original shafts location. Replacement spindle shafts will need to be positioned perpendicular (exact 90° angle) with steering knuckle, then securely weld to backside of knuckle for non-interference with spacing of rim.
How to Fix a Loose-Fitting Drag Link Arm -
To fix a loose-fitting drag link arm on the narrow frame Cub Cadet (models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126 and 147), the hub must be "clamped" to the spindle. To do this...
How to Lengthen the Drag Link (link that goes between pitman arm to steering arm on spindle) When the Front Axle is Repositioned Forward:
IH and MTD Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Models That Share the Same Front Axle -
Front Axle for IH Cub Cadet Narrow Frame Models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102,
104, 105, 106, 107, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127 and 147. (Part # 959-3011)
Front Axle for IH Cub Cadet Wide and Spread Frame Models 86, 108, 109, 128,
129, 149, 169, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100,
1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1535 and 1650. (Part #
Front Axle for IH and MTD Cub Cadet Spread Frame Models 982, 984, 986, 1572,
1772, 1782, 1872, 1882, 1912, 1914, 2072, 2082, 2084, 2086, 2182 and 2284.
(Part # 759-3271)
Front Axle for MTD Cub Cadet Spread Frame Models 1340, 1535, 1541, 1860 and
1862. (Part # 759-3549)
Front Axle for MTD Cub Cadet Spread Frame Models 1440, 1861, 1863 and 1864.
(Part # 719-3100)
How to Reinforce the Spindle Shafts (Steering Knuckles) on Cub Cadet Models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 147, 982, 984, 986, 1340, 1440, 1535, 1541, 1572, 1772, 1782, 1861, 1863, 1864, 1872, 1882, 1912, 1914, 2072, 2082, 2084, 2086, 2182, 2284, 1860 or 1862 -
If the front tires on the above È Cub Cadet models look "dilapidated" (the tops of the tires tilt inward), this means the spindle shafts are bent from doing too many ground-pounding wheelies and weren't reinforced. If the spindle shafts are bent, to prevent them from getting bent again...
To fix worn holes for the spindles in the axle itself on a narrow frame Cub Cadet, the holes will need to be bored or reamed out and a couple of thin-wall bronze bushings pressed-in for the top and bottom ends of the hole.
How to Reposition the Front End 2-3/8" Lower on Cub Cadet Models 86, 108, 109, 128, 129, 149, 169, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1535 and 1650 -
A Pivoting Axle Vs. a Solid-Mounted Axle for Competition Pulling?
I've seen modified garden tractors with a swivel front axle and I've seen some modifieds with a solid-mounted axle. And I noticed that one doesn't pull any better than the other. So it seems it's just the pullers' preference if he or she wants a swivel or solid front axle. And about the only way to fix the looseness of the center pivoting pin hole is to have the axle bored for installation of thin wall bronze bushings, like the ones used for king pins in truck front axles.
How to Repair Worn Pivot Pin Holes for the Front Axle -
Sometimes the pivoting pin in the center of the front axle will rust in place and then the pin will pivot in the holes in the support braces. When this happens, overtime the holes will become oblong and the axle will become unstable, causing sloppy steering. Well, to repair a tractor with worn pivot holes like the ones in the picture below Ê...
If the center hole in an axle is worn, this can be repaired by first boring the hole for a press-fit steel sleeve and then bore the sleeve so a new center pin (or grade 8 or stainless steel bolt) will fit snug in it. Or, you can also bore the hole in the axle and support bracket with a 20 millimeter diameter (equal to .7874") drill bit or reamer and install a hardened 20 mm bolt. It'll be a lot less work to do just do this.
A-1 Miller's Computerized Stuska Water Brake Engine Dynamometer (Dyno) Service with DPM Data Logger Software to Test Horsepower and Torque! | Top of page
For performance testing of 10-16hp single cylinder Kohler stock or competition pulling engines at speeds up to 12,000 RPM. The only dyno service for testing Kohler pulling engines in central Missouri. Two uncontaminated fuel tanks with an electric fuel pump - one for gas and another for methanol. Fully operational and 100% accurate, customers can rent dyno time, fine tune and make adjustments or changes to their engines to gain maximum horsepower and torque, and print-out the results so their tractor(s) will be truly competitive on the track. With an engine dyno, the puller can adjust their engine to get maximum horsepower and torque, and gear their tractor appropriately to have an advantage over the competition. NOTE: A fresh-built engine may not produce full power until it's broke-in. This is when the valves wear-in with the seats to completely seal in the compression. The rings will likely hold the compression, but the valves may leak slightly until they wear into the seats. This is normal for all engines and may take several hours or pulls to happen, then the valves will be able to hold full compression. Lots of pullers tell A-1 Miller's after I've built their engines that it seems to pull stronger every time they pull it.
Engine Dyno Rental Fee: $50.00 per hour run time from the moment the engine is started. No setup fee for Cub Cadet engines with a 3- or 6-pin/stud clutch driver. An adapter may need to be needed or fabricated for other makes and models of engines. Only engines with the narrow base oil pan can be tested. Engines with the wide base (tall) oil pan cannot be tested at this time. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]
Coming Soon - Detailed Illustrated Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back and Self-Propelled Garden Tractor Pulling Sled. FYI - The professionally-built self-propelled pulling sled is the only one I've ever built (click the picture to the right to see a larger image of this sled), and I got it right the first time, with very few changes or modifications that had to be made to it. I guess I'm just one of those kind of guys that knows what he's doing. Pullers really like pulling our sled, too. They say it's the best sled they've ever pulled. (Not bragging, just stating a fact.) By the way - Track Master sled is engineered so well (by Brian Miller), that other sled builders/owners have copied our well thought-out and proven design. Anyway, I have lots of work to do in my shop and I work on the sled plans in my spare time. As soon as my plans with an inventory list of parts to use are perfected, I'll post the update in my websites with the prices of the plans. Remember - Perfection takes time. If it's worth having, it's worth waiting for. Also, I plan to acquire a bigger shop and may build high quality garden tractor pulling sleds in the future to offer for sale. Please call A-1 Miller's at 573-256-0313 (shop) or 573-881-7229 (cell; text or voice message), or email A-1 Miller's at email@example.com if interested. - Brian Miller
A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org. When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine, transaxle, tractor, etc. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're planning to relocate to other property with a bigger and better shop so we can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
To place an order, please call the number below Ê or send an email with your name, complete and correct postal address and phone number and so I can figure the total with shipping cost and USPS Tracking. For payment options for parts ordered or services performed, or to make a donation to my websites, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge), Western Union Money Transfer, MoneyGram Money Transfers or Popmoney. (If a part for a specific purpose is special ordered, your debit/credit card may be charged for the full amount or as a deposit right after your order is placed; please do not send your debit/credit card information in email!) Or you can pay A-1 Miller's through PayPal. (My PayPal account name is my email address. And be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment is for.) If sending a money order, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone number and a description of what the payment is for. My mailing address and phone number are below Ê . I'll make a note of your order, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send the parts to you as soon as I have everything in stock after I receive your payment.
IMPORTANT - When sending your part(s) to A-1 Miller's for rebuilding or repair, package everything securely so the item(s) won't get damaged in shipping and please include a note in the box with your name, mailing address, phone number (in case I have any questions) and a description of what you want done. When shipping heavy parts, it's best to put a slightly smaller box inside a larger box, to double the strength and integrity of the package. Because the clumsy "gorillas" or incompetent and uncaring workers that work for certain delivery services mishandle the heavy packages and don't care. And when the work is completed, I'll either call or email you an invoice with the total including shipping & handling.
To figure the shipping cost, I weigh the package with the parts, then I go online to the USPS Postage Rate Calculator website. I type in the weight, my zip code and your zip code, then it shows A-1 Miller's the prices for various ways to ship the package. I always choose US Postal Service because I believe that's the most fastest, economical and reliable method.
Shipping: (United States and it's territories)
To save you shipping charges, item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 13 oz. is sent by First Class Mail for a 2-6 day delivery. Most packaged item(s) weighing over 13 oz. is sent by US Priority Mail for a 2-3 day delivery. To save you even more on shipping heavy items, I always try to use the US Postal Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelope and boxes (if the item(s) can fit inside the envelope or boxes). Some heavy items weighing no more than 70 lbs. is sent by US Mail Parcel Post. Item(s) weighing over 70 lbs. is sent by FedEx Ground. Again, if you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally drop off and/or pick up your engine, transaxle, tractor, etc.
We Ship to Canada and Worldwide
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S. territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground or equivalent services. We try to keep our shipping cost to customers within reason. Therefore, we don't ship our products in a fancy-looking package with our company name and/or logo on it because most customers will just toss it in the trash after they remove the contents.
To make a payment to A-1 Miller's through PayPal, go to PayPal's secure website ( https://www.paypal.com/ ) and click on Send and Request -> Pay for goods or services. Type in my email address, or copy and paste this: email@example.com, the amount and follow the directions. Be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment is for. After you've finished, PayPal will send A-1 Miller's an email notifying me that you have made a payment to A-1 Miller's for the product(s) or services and amount entered. Then I go to their website and direct PayPal to deposit the money in my bank account. And I will send the parts to you as soon as I receive your payment. But I may have to order some of the parts if they're not in stock, which should take a few days. In that case, I will send you the parts as soon as they come in. PayPal protects your financial privacy and security. With PayPal, privacy is built in. It's a way for you to pay without exposing their financial information.
Copyright © 1996-Present. This website created, designed and maintained by Brian Miller.