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Copyright © 1996-Present. This website created, designed and maintained by Brian Miller.
Where Science and Common Sense Come Together for Better Performance
This page was last updated 1/23/18. (Click Refresh to see changes or updates.) Optimized for 1024 x 768 screen resolution. To search for a word or phrase in any of my web sites, press CTRL and F to open the Find dialog box in your web browser. Although every effort has been taken to check the accuracy of information contained herein, I cannot assume responsibility for errors.
If you want go, you gotta have whoa. There's no question about it. For safety, it's best to repair or replace worn brake parts and adjust them if needed.
Separate the Brake and Clutch Operations - (This is done by many professional competition pullers.)
Cub Cadet garden tractors that have the brakes integrated with the clutch/brake pedal, when applying the brakes on a competition pulling tractor that has an extremely stiff clutch pressure spring (on the driveshaft), great effort is required (strong leg muscles) to overcome and compress the clutch spring before the brakes can be safely applied. When rolling the tractor off a trailer, this also requires even greater effort to depress the clutch/brake pedal to apply the brakes especially by hand (and arm muscles). What can be done to change this is separate the brake(s) and the clutch operations by disconnecting the brake linkage from the clutch/brake pedal cross shaft, and fabricate a long upright lever (with an adjustable linkage) on the right side of the steering column support pedestal which can be easily and effortlessly pulled back (rearward) by hand to apply the brakes. The clutch/brake pedal will then become just a "clutch pedal," and the lever will be the "brake lever." This would make it much safer and easier to fully stop or slow the tractor down a steep hill or when unloading the tractor down the ramp(s) of a utility trailer or platform work table. Also, a "parking brake" lock mechanism can be installed on the brake lever-to-tractor frame to securely lock the brakes in position to prevent the tractor from rolling or coasting when the tractor is out of gear and the engine running.
If your IH Cub Cadet model 70, 72, 73, 100, 102, 122, 124, 582, 682, 782, 784 (prior to serial # 720000), and certain 800, 1000 and 1200's, have an internal brake like the one shown to the right, the adjustment is easily made by loosening the jam nut (on the square-head bolt) and rotating the square-head bolt clockwise. Make the adjustment when there's a slight drag on the brake pads and disc when the clutch/brake pedal is about 3/4 depressed. After the brake is adjusted correctly, tighten the jam nut so the adjuster bolt won't loosen over time while the tractor is in use.
But if you can't get the brake to work at all by tightening the square-head bolt, and you are sure that the rod is pushing the cast brake rod back when the pedal goes down, then the piston is frozen in the reduction housing by rust (this is common in tractors that have sat outside for years).
If the brake lever on the gear reduction housing is stuck in place and will not move side to side and/or swivel, then the lever itself or the two yokes and the pivot pin are rusted together. To fix this, there's no need to remove the transaxle from the tractor...
How to Free-Up a Frozen/Rusted-In Brake Pad Retainer (Plunger) -
This happens when a tractor is left outside in damp weather for many years, which causes the brake pad retainer (plunger) to get rusted in the bore. To free the plunger, remove the transaxle from the tractor, and from inside the reduction gear box housing, remove the large reduction gear, then use a large, flat cold chisel and big hammer between the plunger and brake disc to drive the plunger forward. Use Liquid Wrench to dissolve the rust around the retainer. The brake disc may get scored or scratched from use of the chisel, but this is the only way I know how to do this. Once the plunger is removed from the reduction housing, the scratches on the brake disc can be removed and smoothed over with a fine file. Before reinstalling the plunger, clean the rust from the plunger, install a new rubber O-ring and new brake pads if needed, and remove the rust from the plunger bore with a small, automotive wheel cylinder hone tool, then apply clean motor oil, gear oil or lubricating grease on the plunger and inside the bore so the brake will work flawlessly for many years.
To replace this type of brake, first remove the transaxle from the tractor. Then, remove the square head bolt, drive out the rocker shaft and remove the cast brake arm. Try tapping on the piston and use penetrating oil on it to free it. Often, the transaxle will have to be removed from the tractor and the reduction housing removed to drive the brake pad retainer out from inside and clean up the bore and retainer. If you go that far, replace both pucks with new ones, they are cheap. On reassembly, coat the outside of the piston with a thin layer of motor oil.
If the brake pad retainer is rusted and stuck in place, here's how to fix this...
Parts for this job will involve a new "O" ring for the retainer that the cast rod and shaft pushes on, a reduction gear housing gasket or use Permatex® Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant, and 2 new brake pucks. Use only OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) material when replacing the brake pucks. FYI - I'm not an OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) Cub Cadet parts dealer. Cub Cadet won't let me become a dealer because there's already one in my area. (It's another way how big businesses support other big businesses, or how the rich help the rich get richer.) Besides, competition from different dealers in the same area help keep prices low. I think this is unfair business practice because by allowing only one dealer in a wide-spread area can have them gouge (overcharge) unsuspecting customers on parts and/or repair costs. They probably laugh all the way to the bank after every sale, too.
The internal brake is preferred by most Cub Cadet owners and pullers over the external disc setup, and are normally almost totally trouble-free because the parts stay cleaner than the external brakes.
Only the early Cub Cadets (models 70, 72, 73, 100, 102, 122, 124, 582, 682, 782, 784 (prior to serial # 720000), and certain 800, 1000 and 1200's) were equipped with an internal brake. The Cub Cadet engineers realized later that people were hauling heavy (fully loaded, automotive-type) trailers around their property (farms) with these tractors, and the small internal brake pads couldn't stop the tractor and trailer well, especially when going down a steep hill. Nor does it have the ability to "park" well (with a heavy trailer) downward or upward on a steep hillside. That's why Cub Cadet converted to the external disc/axle brake system, as described further down in this web page. External disc/axle brakes have more contact area, permitting the external brakes to hold about 5 times better than the internal brake.
How to Replace the Internal (Wet) Brake Pads in an IH Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Transaxle - (Updated for clarity 12/6/17)
The external/axle disc brakes on Cub Cadet models 86, 106, 107, 108, 109, 126, 127, 128, 129, 149, 784 w/serial number 720000 and up, 1250, 1450, 1650 and certain 800, 1000 and 1200's are much easier to service than the internal brake models above. Unlike the internal brake, a piece of .125" thickness 6061 (medium hardness) aluminum will work. Use highly adhesive glue or countersink some 3/16" aluminum rivets or flat-head brass bolts to fasten the aluminum in place.
The front brake pads that's made for a 1998-2001 Chevrolet S10 2wd pickup can be used in place of the OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) pads for these type of brakes. This is the flat pad with slotted ends. They're available at virtually any auto parts store. The thickness of a new OEM Cub Cadet brake pad is .100". The automotive pads are thicker.
The automotive brake pads to use are the riveted-on type. Grind the backs off the rivets. The two top rivet holes should line up enough to get two screws through them. Then turn the pads over, and from the back side, use a drill bit to go through the Cub backing plate. Drill through the pad and turn it over. Counter sink the holes to install two more screws.
Also, I have no information on how to mount the S10 brake pads on a Cub Cadet. Somebody gave me this information and I posted it here. Use the information here to the best of your knowledge.
Also, seasoned oak wood or 6061 aluminum can be used as external brake friction material for a Cub Cadet. But only if the tractor doesn't go any faster than factory gearing! NEVER use wood or aluminum as brake friction material in a high speed (above 20 mph) vehicle or in an automobile! The reason being, due to severe friction, wood will burn and aluminum will melt!
To adjust these type of brakes, there's an adjusting rod going forward from each axle end. You'll need to remove them, clean the dirt and paint from the threads with a threading die, a wire brush or a wire wheel, then reinstall them. Place the brake pedal with the hold down lever in place then adjust them to where each axle has the same amount of braking.
Internal Brake VS External Brake Transaxles -
Many professional pullers prefer to use the internal brake transaxle so the rear wheels can be set closer to the tractor frame, allowing for a narrower wheelbase. This require the driver to lean less when heading toward the boundary line, and the tractor can pull more straight down the track.
To convert a Cub Cadet external brake transaxle into an internal brake design, a front gear reduction housing, brake pad retainer, brake link, brake lever, pushrod, pivot pin, brake pads, disc and the lower main shaft, off/out of an internal brake transaxle are required. The opposite will need to be done when converting a Cub Cadet internal brake transaxle into an external brake design. It's exactly easier (and less costly) to acquire an entire internal or external brake transaxle (in good condition, of course), install it, and fabricate or install the required brake linkage. All IH Cub Cadet tractor frames, except the "Original", are made for use with either transaxle.
|If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed below Ê, or virtually any product or service mentioned in this website, or have your Kohler stock or pulling engine tested on a dynamometer (dyno), please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival. E-mail: email@example.com. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. You can also make the drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally drop off and pick up your engine, transaxle, tractor, etc. for rebuilding or repairs. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long."|
|Brake Pads for Cub Cadet
garden tractor models 70, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 105, 122, 123, 124, 125,
582, 682, 782, 784, 800, 1000, 1200, 1210, 1282, 1604, 1606, 1710 and 1712
with the internal (wet) brake. Comes with neoprene rubber O-ring.
|Wheel Stud Kits for IH-built
Cub Cadets with an internal (wet) brake or external axle/disc
brakes, but will work on other makes and models of garden tractors as
well. Along with wheel spacers, these are a must when wheels will not clear
the fenders and/or brake calipers. With lug nuts (below
Ê) installed, these make for easier mounting
of wheels with or without spacers on a garden tractor. Along with lug nuts
(below Ê), these make for easier mounting
of wheels with or without spacers on a garden tractor. Made of 125,000 PSI
hardened 7/16-20 UNF studs and secured from the backside in the wheel flanges
with jam nuts. Each set includes 10 studs and 10 jam nuts. Replaces Cub Cadet
part # 710-3027. An original, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian
Miller. Accept no
|Stainless Steel Plain Nuts
and Flat Washers for Mounting of Douglas or
Aluminum Wheels. 7/16-20 UNF thread size. Will not rust. Along with studs
(above È), these make for easier mounting
of wheels on a garden tractor. The flat washers allow for equal load distribution
across the wheel for additional strength, and they prevent the socket from
marking the wheel. Torque to 50 ft. lbs.
|Zinc-Plated Tapered Lug/Wheel
Nuts for Mounting of Steel Wheels. 7/16-20 UNF thread size. Along with studs
(above È), these make for easier mounting
of wheels on a garden tractor. Torque to 50 ft. lbs. NOTE: The mounting
holes in steel garden tractor wheels will need to be drilled (enlarged) to
21/32" to allow for these lug nuts to tighten properly and keep the wheel
centered with the axle.
|Chrome Acorn Closed-End Tapered Lug/Wheel Nuts for Mounting
of Steel Wheels. 7/16-20 UNF thread size. Along with studs (above
È), these make for easier mounting of
wheels on a garden tractor. NOTE: The mounting holes in steel garden tractor
wheels will need to be drilled (enlarged) to 21/32" to allow for these lug
nuts to tighten properly and keep the wheel centered with the axle. Torque
to 50 ft. lbs.
|A-1 Miller's Fully Computerized Stuska
Water Brake Engine Dynamometer (Dyno) Service with DPM Data Logger
For performance testing engines up to 200hp at speeds up to 12,000 RPM. The only engine dyno service in Missouri for Kohler pulling engines! Now set up and fully operational, customers can rent dyno time, fine tune and make adjustments or changes to their engines for maximum horsepower and torque, and print-out the results so their tractor(s) will be truly competitive on the track. NOTE: A fresh-built engine may not produce full power until it's broke-in. This is when the valves wear-in with the seats to completely seal in the compression. The rings will likely hold the compression, but the valves may leak slightly until they wear into the seats. This is normal for all engines and may take several hours or pulls to happen, then the valves will be able to hold full compression. Lots of pullers tell me after I've built their engines that it seems to pull stronger every time they pull it.
Engine Dyno Rental Fee: $30.00 per hour run time from the moment the engine is started. No setup fee for Cub Cadet engines with a 3- or 6-pin/stud clutch driver. An adapter may need to be needed or fabricated for other makes and models of engines. Only engines with the narrow base oil pan can be tested. Engines with the wide base (tall) oil pan cannot be tested at this time.
A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday , except holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends , except holidays. Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival. E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. You can also make the drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally drop off and pick up your engine, transaxle, tractor, etc. for rebuilding or repairs. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long."
To place an order, please call the number below Ê or send an email with your name, complete and correct postal address and phone number and so I can figure the total with shipping cost and USPS Tracking. For payment options for parts ordered or services performed, or to make a donation to my websites, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge), Western Union Money Transfer, MoneyGram Money Transfers or Popmoney. (If a part for a specific purpose is special ordered, your debit/credit card may be charged for the full amount or as a deposit right after your order is placed; please do not send your debit/credit card information in email!) Or you can pay me through PayPal. (My PayPal account name is my email address. And be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment is for.) If sending a money order, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone number and a description of what the payment is for. My mailing address and phone number are below Ê . I'll make a note of your order, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send the parts to you as soon as I have everything in stock after I receive your payment.
IMPORTANT - When sending your part(s) to me for rebuilding or repair, package everything securely so the item(s) won't get damaged in shipping and please include a note in the box with your name, mailing address, phone number (in case I have any questions) and a description of what you want done. When shipping heavy parts, it's best to put a slightly smaller box inside a larger box, to double the strength and integrity of the package. Because the clumsy "gorillas" or incompetent and uncaring workers that work for certain delivery services mishandle the heavy packages and don't care. And when the work is completed, I'll either call or email you an invoice with the total including shipping & handling.
To figure the shipping cost, I weigh the package with the parts, then I go online to the USPS Postage Rate Calculator website. I type in the weight, my zip code and your zip code, then it shows me the prices for various ways to ship the package. I always choose US Postal Service because I believe that's the most fastest, economical and reliable method.
Shipping: (United States and it's territories)
To save you shipping charges, item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 13 oz. is sent by First Class Mail for a 2-6 day delivery. Most packaged item(s) weighing over 13 oz. is sent by US Priority Mail for a 2-3 day delivery. To save you even more on shipping heavy items, I always try to use the US Postal Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelope and boxes (if the item(s) can fit inside the envelope or boxes). Some heavy items weighing no more than 70 lbs. is sent by US Mail Parcel Post. Item(s) weighing over 70 lbs. is sent by FedEx Ground. Again, if you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can always make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally drop off and/or pick up your engine, transaxle, tractor, etc.
We Ship to Canada and Worldwide
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S. territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground or equivalent services.
To make a payment to me through PayPal, go to PayPal's secure website ( https://www.paypal.com/ ) and click on Send and Request -> Pay for goods or services. Type in my email address, or copy and paste this: email@example.com, the amount and follow the directions. Be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment is for. After you've finished, PayPal will send me an email notifying me that you have made a payment to me for the product(s) or services and amount entered. Then I go to their website and direct PayPal to deposit the money in my bank account. And I will send the parts to you as soon as I receive your payment. But I may have to order some of the parts if they're not in stock, which should take a few days. In that case, I will send you the parts as soon as they come in. PayPal protects your financial privacy and security. With PayPal, privacy is built in. It's a way for you to pay without exposing their financial information.
Coming Soon - Detailed Illustrated Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back Garden Tractor Pulling Sled, and a Motorized/Self-Propelled Garden Tractor Pulling Sled. FYI - My professionally-built motorized/self-propelled pulling sled, Track Master (click the picture to the right to see a larger image of my sled), is the only one I've ever built and I got it right the first time, with very few changes that had to be made to it. I guess I'm just one of those kind of guys that knows what he's doing. Pullers really like pulling my sled, too. They say it's the best sled they've ever pulled. (Not bragging, just stating the truth.) By the way - Track Master sled is engineered so well (by Brian Miller), other sled owners/builders have copied my well thought-out and proven design. Anyway, I have lots of work to do in my shop and I work on the sled plans in my spare time. As soon as my plans with an inventory list of parts to use are perfected, I'll post the update in my websites. Remember - Perfection takes time. If it's worth having, it's worth waiting for. Also, I plan to acquire a bigger shop and I may build high quality garden tractor pulling sleds in the future to offer for sale. Please call me at 573-256-0313 (shop) or 573-881-7229 (cell), or email me at firstname.lastname@example.org or email@example.com if you're interested. - Brian Miller
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Copyright © 1996-Present. This website created, designed and maintained by Brian Miller.