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If you want go, you gotta have whoa. There's no question about it. For safety, it's best to repair or replace worn brake parts and adjust them if needed.
Separate the Brake and Clutch Operations and Use a Hand-Operated Brake Instead of a Foot Brake -
Many professional Cub Cadet garden tractor competition pullers prefer to use a hand brake because they run an extremely stiff pressure spring on the driveshaft to prevent clutch slippage. When they depress the clutch/brake pedal to apply the brakes, the stiff spring must fully compress, which makes it very hard to easily apply the brakes. The hand brake makes it effortlessly and much safer to apply the brakes. It requires a lot less muscle (in the arm) to stop the tractor.
When safely rolling the tractor off a trailer, sometimes this requires great effort to depress the clutch/brake pedal to apply the brakes, especially by hand (and arm muscles). What can be done to change this is separate the brake(s) and the clutch operations by disconnecting the brake linkage from the clutch/brake pedal cross shaft, and fabricate a long upright lever (with an adjustable linkage) on the right side of the steering column support pedestal which can be easily and effortlessly pulled back (rearward) by hand to apply the brakes. The clutch/brake pedal will then become just the "clutch pedal," and the lever will be the "brake lever." This would also make it much safer and easier to fully stop or slow the tractor down a steep hill or when unloading the tractor down the ramp(s) of a utility trailer or platform work table. Also, a "parking brake" lock mechanism can be installed on the brake lever-to-tractor frame to securely lock the brakes in position to prevent the tractor from rolling or coasting when the tractor is out of gear and the engine running.
Cub Cadet garden tractors that have the brakes integrated with the clutch/brake pedal, when applying the brakes on a competition pulling tractor that has an extremely stiff clutch pressure spring (on the driveshaft), great effort is required (strong leg muscles) to overcome and compress the clutch spring before the brakes can be fully applied. I don't have any pictures of the hand brake (yet), but to make it work, fabricate a 3/4" diameter cross-shaft next to the original clutch/brake cross-shaft, mount it between the tractor frame rails and allow it to rotate slightly. The brake lever is then positioned on the right side of the tractor (if you're right-handed), and it can be made to a comfortable length (height) and it's securely welded to the cross-shaft. Then a bellcrank or short lever is installed or welded to the cross-shaft with an adjustable link (turnbucket) which connects to the brake lever on the transaxle. The adjustable link is used to set the proper position of the lever. Install an extension spring to allow the pressure to be taken off the brakes when the lever is released.
If your IH Cub Cadet model 70, 72, 73, 100, 102, 122, 124, 582 (prior to serial # 719999), 682 (prior to serial # 719999), 782 (prior to serial # 719999), 784 (prior to serial # 719999), and the early 800, 1000 and 1200 models have an internal brake assembly like the one shown to the right, the adjustment is easily made by loosening the jam nut on the square-head bolt and rotating the bolt clockwise. Make the adjustment when there's a slight drag on the brake pads and disc when the clutch/brake pedal is about 3/4 depressed, then tighten the jam nut.
If you can't get the brake to stop the tractor at all by tightening the square-head brake adjustment bolt, and you are sure that the adjustment bolt is pushing against the brake push rod firmly when the pedal is depressed, then the brake pad retainer (plunger) is obviously frozen/rusted in the reduction housing. This is common for tractors that was stored in a high humility environment or sat outside in damp weather for many years.
If the pivot pin for the brake lever (with the adjustment bolt/nut) on the gear reduction housing is stuck in place and will not move side to side and/or rotate, then the lever itself or the two yokes and the pivot pin are rusted together. To fix this, there's no need to remove the transaxle from the tractor...
How to Free-Up a Frozen/Rusted-In Brake Pad Retainer (Plunger) -
This happens when a tractor is left outside in damp weather for many years, which causes the brake pad retainer (plunger) to get rusted in the bore. To free the plunger, remove the transaxle from the tractor, and from inside the reduction gear box housing, remove the large reduction gear, then use a large, flat cold chisel and big hammer between the plunger and brake disc to drive the plunger forward. Use Liquid Wrench to dissolve the rust around the retainer. The brake disc may get scored or scratched from use of the chisel, but this is the only way I know how to do this. Once the plunger is removed from the reduction housing, the scratches on the brake disc can be removed and smoothed over with a fine file. Before reinstalling the plunger, clean the rust from the plunger, install a new rubber O-ring and new brake pads if needed, and remove the rust from the plunger bore with a small, automotive wheel cylinder hone tool, then apply clean motor oil, gear oil or lubricating grease on the plunger and inside the bore so the brake will work flawlessly for many years.
To replace this type of brake, first remove the transaxle from the tractor. Then, remove the square head bolt, drive out the rocker shaft and remove the cast brake arm. Try tapping on the piston and use penetrating oil on it to free it. Often, the transaxle will have to be removed from the tractor and the reduction housing removed to drive the brake pad retainer out from inside and clean up the bore and retainer. If you go that far, replace both pads/pucks with new ones, they are cheap. On reassembly, coat the outside of the piston with a thin layer of motor oil.
If the brake pad retainer is rusted and stuck in place, here's how to fix this...
Parts for this job will involve a new "O" ring for the retainer that the cast rod and shaft pushes on, a reduction gear housing gasket or use clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant and 2 new brake pads/pucks. Use only OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) material when replacing the brake pads/pucks. FYI - I'm not an OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) Cub Cadet parts dealer. Cub Cadet won't let A-1 Miller's become a dealer because there's already one in my area. (It's another way how big businesses support other big businesses, or how the rich help the rich get richer.) Besides, competition from different dealers in the same area help keep prices low. I think this is unfair business practice because by allowing only one dealer in a wide-spread area can have them gouge (overcharge) unsuspecting customers on parts and/or repair costs. They probably laugh all the way to the bank after every sale, too.
The internal brake is preferred by most Cub Cadet owners and pullers over the external disc setup, and are normally almost totally trouble-free because the parts stay cleaner than the external brakes.
Only the early Cub Cadets (models 70, 72, 73, 100, 102, 122, 124, 582, 682, 782, 784 (prior to serial # 720000), and certain 800, 1000 and 1200's) were equipped with an internal brake. The Cub Cadet engineers realized later that people were hauling heavy (fully loaded, automotive-type) trailers around their property (farms) with these tractors, and the small internal brake pads couldn't stop the tractor and trailer well, especially when going down a steep hill. Nor does it have the ability to "park" well (with a heavy trailer) downward or upward on a steep hillside. That's why Cub Cadet converted to the external disc/axle brake system, as described further down in this web page. External disc/axle brakes have more contact area, permitting the external brakes to hold about 5 times better than the internal brake.
How to Replace the Internal (Wet) Brake Pads/Pucks in an IH Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Transaxle -
The external/axle disc brakes on Cub Cadet models 86, 106, 107, 108, 109, 126, 127, 128, 129, 149, 784 w/serial number 720000 and up, 1250, 1450, 1650 and certain 800, 1000 and 1200's are much easier to service than the internal brake models above. Unlike the internal brake, a piece of .125" thickness 6061 (medium hardness) aluminum will work. Use highly adhesive glue or countersink some 3/16" aluminum rivets or flat-head brass bolts to fasten the aluminum in place.
The front brake pads that's made for a 1998-2001 Chevrolet S10 2wd pickup can be used in place of the OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) pads for these type of brakes. This is the flat pad with slotted ends. They're available at virtually any auto parts store. The thickness of a new OEM Cub Cadet brake pad is .100". The automotive pads are thicker.
The automotive brake pads to use are the riveted-on type. Grind the backs off the rivets. The two top rivet holes should line up enough to get two screws through them. Then turn the pads over, and from the back side, use a drill bit to go through the Cub backing plate. Drill through the pad and turn it over. Counter sink the holes to install two more screws.
Also, I have no information on how to mount the S10 brake pads on a Cub Cadet. Somebody gave A-1 Miller's this information and I posted it here. Use the information here to the best of your knowledge.
Also, seasoned oak wood or 6061 aluminum can be used as external brake friction material for a Cub Cadet. But only if the tractor doesn't go any faster than factory gearing! NEVER use wood or aluminum as brake friction material in a high speed (above 20 mph) vehicle or in an automobile! The reason being, due to severe friction, wood will burn and aluminum will melt!
To adjust these type of brakes, there's an adjusting rod going forward from each axle end. You'll need to remove them, clean the dirt and paint from the threads with a threading die, a wire brush or a wire wheel, then reinstall them. Place the brake pedal with the hold down lever in place then adjust them to where each axle has the same amount of braking.
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|If you would like to purchase any of the parts or services listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak slowly and clearly). Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org. When you call, text, email or visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with the owner for the best customer service. A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends, except holidays. Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine parts, entire engine, transaxle, transmission, entire garden tractor, etc. for rebuilding and/or repairing, or to purchase parts. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're planning to relocate our business to other property with a bigger and better shop so we can hire more help and provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)|
|Brake Band w/Lining
for IH Cub Cadet "Original" Garden Tractor. High quality aftermarket.
Discontinued from Cub Cadet. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-358753-R21.
|Internal (Wet) Brake Pads/Pucks. Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor
models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 105, 122, 123, 124, 125, 580, 582,
680, 682, 782, 784, 800, 1000, 1200, 1210, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1604, 1606,
1650, 1710, 1711 and 1712. IMPORTANT: Apply clean motor oil, gear oil
or lubricating grease on O-ring and inside housing for easier installation
and for longer wear. With no prior lubrication, the dry rubber will wear
from friction, causing an oil leak.
|Wheel Stud Kits
for IH-built Cub Cadets with an internal (wet) brake or external
axle/disc brakes, but will work on other makes and models of garden tractors
as well. Along with wheel spacers, these are a must when wheels will not
clear the fenders and/or brake calipers. With lug nuts (below
Ê) installed, these make for easier mounting
of wheels with or without spacers on a garden tractor. Along with lug nuts
(below Ê), these make for easier mounting
of wheels with or without spacers on a garden tractor. Made of 125,000 PSI
hardened 7/16-20 UNF studs and secured from the backside in the wheel flanges
with jam nuts. Each set includes 10 studs and 10 jam nuts. Replaces Cub Cadet
part # 710-3027. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller.
Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate
them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.)
Plain Nuts and Flat Washers for Mounting of Aluminum Wheels. 7/16-20 UNF
thread size. Will not rust. Along with studs (above
È), these make for easier mounting of
wheels on a garden tractor. The flat washers allow for equal load distribution
across the wheel for additional strength, and they prevent the socket from
marking the wheel. Torque to 50 ft. lbs.
Tapered Lug/Wheel Nuts for Mounting of Steel Wheels. 7/16-20 UNF thread size.
Along with studs (above È), these make
for easier mounting of wheels on a garden tractor. Torque to 50 ft. lbs.
NOTE: The mounting holes in steel garden tractor wheels will need to be
drilled (enlarged) to 21/32" to allow for these lug nuts to tighten properly
and keep the wheel centered with the axle.
Closed-End Tapered Lug/Wheel Nuts for Mounting of Steel Wheels. 7/16-20 UNF
thread size. Along with studs (above È),
these make for easier mounting of wheels on a garden tractor. NOTE: The
mounting holes in steel garden tractor wheels will need to be drilled (enlarged)
to 21/32" to allow for these lug nuts to tighten properly and keep the wheel
centered with the axle. Torque to 50 ft. lbs.
Internal Brake VS External Brake Transaxles -
Many professional pullers prefer to use the internal brake transaxle so the rear wheels can be set closer to the tractor frame, allowing for a narrower wheelbase. This require the driver to lean less when heading toward the boundary line, and the tractor can pull more straight down the track.
To convert a Cub Cadet external brake transaxle into an internal brake design, a front gear reduction housing, brake pad retainer, brake link, brake lever, push rod, pivot pin, brake pads, disc and the lower main shaft, off/out of an internal brake transaxle are required. The opposite will need to be done when converting a Cub Cadet internal brake transaxle into an external brake design. It's exactly easier (and less costly) to acquire an entire internal or external brake transaxle (in good condition, of course), install it, and fabricate or install the required brake linkage. All IH Cub Cadet tractor frames, except the "Original", are made for use with either transaxle.
A-1 Miller's Computerized Stuska Water Brake Engine Dynamometer (Dyno) Service with DPM Data Logger Software to Test Horsepower and Torque! | [Top of Page]
For performance testing of 10-16hp single cylinder Kohler stock or competition pulling engines at speeds up to 12,000 RPM. The only dyno service for testing Kohler pulling engines in central Missouri. Two uncontaminated fuel tanks with an electric fuel pump - one for gas and another for methanol. Fully operational and 100% accurate, customers can rent dyno time, fine tune and make adjustments or changes to their engines to gain maximum horsepower and torque, and print-out the results so their tractor(s) will be truly competitive on the track. With an engine dyno, the puller can adjust their engine to get maximum horsepower and torque, and gear their tractor appropriately to have an advantage over the competition. NOTE: A fresh-built engine may not produce full power until it's broke-in. This is when the valves wear-in with the seats to completely seal in the compression. The rings will likely hold the compression, but the valves may leak slightly until they wear into the seats. This is normal for all engines and may take several hours or pulls to happen, then the valves will be able to hold full compression. Lots of pullers tell A-1 Miller's after I've built their engines that it seems to pull stronger every time they pull it.
Engine Dyno Rental Fee: $50.00 per hour run time from the moment the engine is started. No setup fee for Cub Cadet engines with a 3- or 6-pin/stud clutch driver. An adapter may need to be needed or fabricated for other makes and models of engines. Only engines with the narrow base oil pan can be tested. Engines with the wide base (tall) oil pan cannot be tested at this time. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]
Coming Soon - Detailed Illustrated Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back and Self-Propelled Garden Tractor Pulling Sled. FYI - I have lots of work to do in my shop and I work on my sled plans in my spare time. As soon as my plans with an inventory list of parts to use are perfected, I'll post the update in my websites with prices of the plans. Remember - Perfection takes time. If it's worth having, it's worth waiting for. Also, I plan to acquire a bigger shop and may build high quality garden tractor pulling sleds in the future to offer for sale. Please call 573-256-0313 (shop) or 573-881-7229 (cell; text or voice message), or email email@example.com if interested in purchasing the plans or a sled. - Brian Miller
To place an order and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance and support, please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak slowly and clearly). Payment Options. Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org. A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, with an appointment on weekends, except holidays. Please call, text or email me before coming so I'll be at my shop waiting for your arrival. When you visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with the owner for the best customer service. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine parts, entire engine, transaxle, transmission, entire garden tractor, etc. for rebuilding and/or repairing, or to purchase parts. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're planning to relocate our business to other property with a bigger and better shop so we can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.) [Return To Previous Paragraph, Section or Website]
To place an order, please call the number below Ê or send an email with your name, complete and correct postal address and phone number and so I can figure the total with shipping cost and USPS Tracking. For payment options for parts ordered or services performed, or to make a donation to my websites, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge), Western Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram Money Transfers. (If a part for a specific purpose is special ordered, your debit/credit card may be charged for the full amount or as a deposit right after your order is placed; please do not send your debit/credit card information in email!) Or you can pay A-1 Miller's through PayPal. (My PayPal account name is my email address. And be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment is for.) If sending a money order, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone number and a description of what the payment is for. My mailing address and phone number are below Ê . I'll make a note of your order, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send the parts to you as soon as I have everything in stock after I receive your payment.
IMPORTANT - When sending your part(s) to A-1 Miller's for rebuilding or repair, package everything securely so the item(s) won't get damaged in shipping and please include a note in the box with your name, mailing address, phone number (in case I have any questions) and a description of what you want done. When shipping heavy parts, it's best to put a slightly smaller box inside a larger box, to double the strength and integrity of the package. Because the clumsy "gorillas" or incompetent and uncaring workers that work for certain delivery services mishandle the heavy packages and don't care. And when the work is completed, I'll either call or email you an invoice with the total including shipping & handling.
Payment Options and We Ship to Canada and
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S. territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground or equivalent services. We try to keep our shipping cost to customers within reason. Therefore, we don't ship our products in a fancy-looking package with our company name and/or logo on it because most customers will just toss it in the trash after they remove the contents. And being there is no USPS tracking number outside the US, all I can do is make sure I write your address correctly on the customs form and on your package.
My websites are not set up to process orders and accept payments. Therefore, for payment options, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total amount for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge), Western Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram Money Transfers. If paying with a credit/debit card, please call me at either number below. To make a payment to me through PayPal, please click this link: https://www.paypal.me/PullingTractor. Please use the "Friends and Family" option, or add 3% to the total amount to cover PayPal's processing surcharge. Or to make a payment to me (email@example.com) in the US through the Venmo app, please click this link: venmo.com. Or use Cash App to make a payment to me (firstname.lastname@example.org). And be sure to mention in PayPal, Venmo or Cash App a description of what the payment is for with your full name, postal address, phone number and email address. If sending a money order or cashier's check, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete mailing address, phone number, email address and a description of what the payment is for. I'll make a note of your order when I have all your information, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send everything on your list to you as soon as I have the parts in stock after I receive your payment.
Copyright © 1996-Present. This website created, designed and maintained by Brian Miller.