Inspiring Small Engine, Lawn & Garden, and Garden Pulling Tractor Enthusiasts Since 1996. Where Science and Common Sense Come Together for Safety and Improved Engine/Tractor Performance
A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises - Parts & Services Online Catalog

Click or tap Here To Visit My Other Web Sites... Home Page Balancing the Crankshaft to the Piston/Connecting Rod Assembly for a Single Cylinder Engine Important Information Concerning Small Engine Flywheels Putting the Brakes on a Cub Cadet Information about the Kohler Carburetor, Various Fuels and Fuel Systems Improving the Drive Clutch Assembly in a Cub Cadet Information about the Cylinder Head on Single Cylinder Kohler Engines Professional Kohler Engine Rebuilding, Buildups and Modifications Useful Formulas, Conversion Charts, etc. Using an Adjustable Pulling Hitch on a Garden Pulling Tractor Electrical Solutions for Small Engines and Garden Pulling Tractors Ignition Solutions for Garden Pulling Tractors and Older Small Engines Important Information About the Cub Cadet Oil Pan Improving and Modifying the Steering on an IH Cub Cadet Modifying the IH & Early MTD Cub Cadet Transaxles for Heavy Use and/or Pulling Applications Information about the Valves, Seats, Porting, Camshaft and Header Pipe Information About Tractor Pulling Tires and How to Widen Steel Wheels The Importance and Safety of Having Wheelie Bars Installed on a Competition Pulling Tractor How to Weight a Garden Pulling Tractor (so it will pull better) Miscellaneous Garden Tractor Pulling Tips and Tricks Garden Pulling Tractor Parts and Suppliers, and Miscellaneous Products Vendors

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Links to Other Brian Miller's Websites -

Click or Tap Here to Visit Brian Miller's Small Engine Repair and Garden Tractor Pulling Tips and Tricks Websites	Click or Tap Here to Visit A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises Professional Automotive Services and Tractor Pulling Sled Sales Website
Click or Tap Here to Visit A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises Online Catalog of Kohler Engine Parts and Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Parts and Services Website	Click or Tap Here to Visit the Missouri Mini Truck & Mini Rod Pullers Association Website

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When building a garden tractor for pulling, it's best to remove and disassemble everything. (This is much easier to do on a platform work table.) Clean and inspect all the parts for wear, especially the steering parts. This is one important thing many people overlook. Steering is very important, especially in pulling, and should never be overlooked or neglected. Loose or worn steering parts can be dangerous. A puller may just tighten the steering box adjustments, inspect the tie rod ends and that's it. But there's more to it than just making proper adjustments...

How to Remove the Steering Wheel from a Cub Cadet or Virtually Any Garden Tractor with a ROSS Steering Assembly - There are several ways to remove the steering wheel -

DO NOT STRIKE THE SPLINED END OF THE STEERING SHAFT WITH A BIG HAMMER IN AN ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THE STEERING WHEEL! Doing this could cause the internal threads in the lower part of the cast aluminum steering box housing to split and crack the case or break off entirely. Or if the housing is cracked, the bottom of the steering box could break off entirely later, which would be dangerous because the tractor could go out of control, especially when pulling on the track.

To prevent damage to the threads on the steering shaft, install an ordinary length 5/8-18 UNF nut on the shaft threaded down until flush with the end of the threads, and while pulling upward on the steering wheel with your hands (assistance/help may be needed), give the nut a short blast with an air chisel. Do not use the short OEM steering wheel retaining jam nut because threads on the shaft may become damaged. AND DO NOT USE A BIG HAMMER! If the end of the steering shaft was hammered on without the nut installed in an effort to remove the steering wheel, which caused the threads to become flared-out or "mushroomed", well, there two ways to fix this... (A-1 Miller's provides this repair service, too.)

The easy way to fix this is...

1. Use a hacksaw or reciprocating saw (also known as a saw-saw) to cut the damaged threads off the steering shaft next to the splines.
2. Use a 1/2-20 UNF (plug) hand tap to cut new threads in the [hollow] shaft.
3. Install a 1/2-20 UNF x 1-1/2" length bolt with a flat washer and lock washer to secure the steering wheel to the shaft.

The more complicated way to fix this and retain the OEM look of the stud with the retaining nut is...

1. Remove the steering shaft from the steering box assembly.
2. Cut the damaged threads off the shaft next to the splines.
3. Cut the head off of a 5/8-18 UNF fine thread x 1-1/2" long grade 5 bolt.
4. With the original threaded end of the bolt firmly chucked in a metal lathe 1/2", machine down 1" length of the threads until the newly created shank is .003" larger in diameter than the hole in the steering shaft. This will make for a press-fit. Bevel or chamfer the end of the shank for easier insertion in the steering shaft.
5. Use a hydraulic press to install the shank into the shaft until the threads of the bolt bottoms out with the splines. DO NOT USE A BIG HAMMER TO INSTALL THE BOLT IN THE SHAFT!
6. Use a drill press or milling machine to drill a 3/16" hole through the shaft and shank below or past the splines and install a 3/16" x 3/4" spiral pin to permanently secure the machined bolt to the steering shaft.
7. If necessary, grind the end(s) of the spiral pin flush with the shaft so it will not interfere with the upper bearing.

• Use either a steering wheel puller (with bolts) or an automotive harmonic balancer/vibration damper puller (with bolts) and a bearing separator, or use only a 3-jaw gear puller to "pull" the steering wheel off the shaft. To prevent damage to the steering wheel, make sure the jaws of a gear puller won't break or crack the plastic around the hub.

• If doing the above didn't work, the splined hub in the steering wheel will need to be heated, or if necessary, the hub will need to be cut in two with an oxy-acetylene torch to remove it from the splined shaft. Be careful not to damage (melt) the splined shaft!

• As the last resort, if the steering shaft itself must be literary cut-off with a hacksaw or reciprocating saw (also known as a saw-saw), just under the steering wheel, the splined part of the shaft can be replaced with the steering shaft (that's in good condition) out of a 1949 to 1994 GM car or truck. Only a short section of the splined end of the shaft will need to be used. The GM shaft next to the splines will need to be machined down fit inside the ROSS [hollow] steering shaft, then the GM shaft can be pressed inside the ROSS shaft with an 1/8" gap. Fill in the gap with welding around where the two shafts meet. The lump of weld will need to be either machined down (in a metal lathe; for use of a solid metal bushing) or ground down (with a hand grinder for use of a ball bearing) so the upper bushing or bearing will slide on the shaft. Installation of the steering wheel and hub adapter are explained below Ê.

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Replace that worn, cracked (and not to mention unsightly and boring/plain looking) OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) steering wheel with an attractive, small diameter (10" or 12") automotive-style/hot rod custom steering wheel or a chrome spoke steering wheel! A custom or chrome spoke steering wheel will, without a doubt, improve the overall appearance of the entire tractor.

To adapt a custom steering wheel to the ROSS [splined end] steering shaft, and if the splines and threads on the shaft are in good condition, the only custom automotive steering wheel installation adapter kit I found that fits close on the ROSS splined steering shaft is an aftermarket early GM steering wheel hub adapter kit, Grant part # 3196, that's made for most General Motors cars and trucks from 1949 to 1994 without telescopic steering. Leave out the horn switch plate and install multiple flat washers on the supplied steering wheel mounting bolts so the steering wheel will install tight against the hub. Use the OEM ROSS (Cub Cadet, John Deere, etc.) steering wheel retaining nut or a 5/8-18 UNF jam nut with a thin flat washer to secure the steering wheel and hub to the steering shaft. The GM adapter center spline has the correct diameter, but the number of splines are not a perfect fit, so it will need to be gently tapped onto the steering shaft. Or the center splined hub from a 1949 to 1994 OEM GM steering wheel can be used instead. But the three small holes in the hub will need to be enlarged and tapped for three 1/4" bolts for installation of the custom steering wheel. But if you don't want to use the GM adapter, the splined hub from an early model Cub Cadet steering wheel with the spokes cut off, and a large flat washer (with three tapped 1/4" bolt holes for installation of the custom steering wheel) welded to the adapter can be used. Once the steering wheel is removed, position the front tires forward, fasten the splined adapter on the steering shaft (with the choice of hardware listed below Ê), then fasten the steering wheel with the adapter facing in the straight ahead position. For easier installation of nut (and easier removal of steering wheel), use a 5/8-18 UNF threading die (and handle/wrench) to clean/straighten damaged threads on shaft, apply anti-seize compound/lubricant on threads (including splines inside steering wheel and on shaft), then torque nut to 65 ft. lb.

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Install the three 1/4" bolts from the bottom up, install the steering wheel, then install stainless steel acorn nuts with a split lock washer to the bolts (studs) to fasten the steering wheel for a nice looking and (rust-proof) professional look. Then to hide the (unsightly) large center retaining nut, install a 15/16" stainless steel lug nut cover. These are made for semi tractor-trailers, which are available at most truck stops and on eBay. Or, to hide the three bolts and retaining nut, install a chrome-plated universal custom automotive horn button (center cap). To do this, machine a large flat washer in a metal lathe so the washer will be slightly larger than the inside diameter of the horn button. Fasten the washer in the steering wheel to the three 1/4" bolts with a couple of stacked smaller flat washers under the large washer. Snap the horn button onto the washer and that's it! Snap the horn button onto the washer and that's it!

The steering box assembly for the Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor is part # IH-400904-R91. (The MTD Ranch King and Wheel Horse steering box assemblies are very similar.) The steering box assembly for Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 109, 122, 123, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 149, 169, 482, 580, 582, 680, 682, 782, 784, 800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100, 1200, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1482, 1512, 1604, 1606, 1650, 1710, 1711 and 1712 is part # 703-1085. The steering box assembly for Cub Cadet garden tractor models 982, 984, 986, 1912 and 1914 is part # 703-0230. The lower steering box assembly for Cub Cadet garden tractor models 1340, 1535 and 1541 is part # 703-1794. (Similar to 618-3050.) The steering box assembly for Cub Cadet garden tractor models 1810 and 1811 (S/N 756,300 - 799,999) is part # 731-3001. The lower steering box assembly for Cub Cadet garden tractor models 1440, 1861 and 1863 is part # 618-3050. (Similar to 703-1794.) All other Cub Cadet garden tractors not listed have hydraulic steering.

How To Fix Loose or "Sloppy" Steering Parts -

To improve the steering on an IH Cub Cadet garden tractor, is to remove, disassemble, clean, inspect, repair as necessary, reassemble, adjust, then lubricate the steering box unit with automotive grease through the Zerk grease fitting. By the way - adjustments are made much easier with the steering box assembly out of the tractor. Remember - grease fittings provide preventive maintenance when they're used regularly. Because grease cost less than any major repair of equipment.

Don't Be A Slob When Rebuilding A Steering Unit!

Always be professional whenever building or rebuilding anything! Before reassembling a steering unit, always take the time to provide a neat and absolutely clean work environment. Make sure that your tools, shop/business towels, steering parts and hands are clean, too. Don't allow any dust or dirt to enter the work bench or table, including the steering box and it's parts. If necessary, place the parts on a large, clean cloth or cardboard to keep them clean and organized until they're ready to be installed. The reason everything should be kept as clean as possible is because even the smallest bit of dirt inside a steering box will "grind away" at the internal parts, causing unnecessary wear.

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How to remove the steering box/column unit from the tractor - (This is much easier to do on a platform work table.)

1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Remove the steering wheel. Despite how rusted-on or stuck-in-place it may be, the OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) steering wheel MUST come off before the steering box can be removed from the tractor.
3. Remove the mower deck (if equipped).
4. Remove the tie-rod end that's connected to the pitman arm plate (steering lever).
5. Remove the two 9/16" bolts that fastens the steering box to the cross-member of the frame.
6. The steering unit then slides out from under the tractor.

How to disassemble the steering unit -

1. Remove the pitman arm plate and shaft.
2. Remove the cotter pin from the end cap.
3. Remove the end cap with a large flat screwdriver or flat ratchet tool by turning it counterclockwise.
4. Pull or slide the shaft out of the steering box. Use caution not to lose any of the ball bearings!
5. Clean and inspect everything. Observe the metal bearing retainers for cracks or breakage. Replace if necessary.

How to reassemble the steering unit -

1. Install the ball bearings in the nylon retainers. Apply lubricating grease on the balls to hold them in the nylon retainers so they won't fall out upon installation on the steering shaft.
2. Install the ball bearings on the steering shaft with the metal retainers to hold them in place.
3. Carefully slide the shaft through the steering box and column until it's bottomed out. Make sure no balls have fallen out of their retainers.
4. Install the adjustment plug, and tighten it until it's bottomed out. With Vise-Grips on the splined end of the steering shaft, rotate the shaft in full rotation to assure smoothness with no looseness or binding.
5. If the shaft feels like it's somewhat difficult to rotate in either direction, back the adjustment plug off until one of the notches match the hole for the cotter pin, and rotate the shaft in full rotation again. If it rotates smoothly with no looseness or binding, install the cotter pin. Back off the adjustment plug until the notch is against the cotter pin.
6. Pump fresh lubricating grease in the steering box and on/around the steering worm gear. Fill it up with grease.
7. If it isn't already installed, install the steering cam follower (steering pin) and locknut in the pitman arm plate.
8. Install the pitman arm plate and shaft, flat thrust washer and one adjustment nut.
9. Tighten down the adjustment nut until it's bottomed out and back it off an 1/8 of a turn. Install the other jam/lock nut and tighten it against the adjustment nut, making sure the adjustment nut doesn't turn.
10. Tighten down the steering cam follower until it's bottomed out in the steering worm gear groove and back it off about an 1/8 of a turn.
11. With Vise-Grips on the splined end of the steering shaft, rotate the shaft in full rotation. If binding occurs or if it feels a little too loose, adjust the steering cam follower until it feels satisfactory. But make the adjustment so the steering is a little "stiff", but not too tight. Because somehow, if it's adjusted too tight, it will stay too tight, and if it's adjusted "loose", it will loosen up more overtime. There is no way to prevent this. If the shaft rotates smoothly with no looseness or binding, tighten the jam/lock nut, making sure the steering cam follower doesn't turn.
12. Pump a few ounces of fresh automotive chassis lube through the Zerk grease fitting to make sure the unit is full. Remember - grease fittings provide preventive maintenance when they're used regularly. Because grease cost less than any major repair of equipment.
13. That's it! The steering unit is now assembled, lubricated and adjusted!

NOTE: If new internal steering box parts are needed in a rebuild, you can get them at virtually any Cub Cadet garden tractor dealer. Most John Deere lawn & garden service centers and parts stores offers the same parts for the steering box in their models 110, 112, 120, 140, 200, 210, 212, 214, 216, 300, 312, 316 and 317. The steering box in these tractors, which is made by ROSS, are very similar to the ones used in the IH Cub Cadet garden tractor, except for the mounting holes. The internal parts are basically the same, but new John Deere parts are more expensive than new Cub Cadet garden tractor parts.

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Ever had the steering column tube get pulled out of the steering box on a Cub Cadet garden tractor? Well, doing the below Ê will guarantee that it will never get pulled out again -

1. Remove the steering box/column assembly from the tractor.
2. Disassemble the entire steering box assembly.
3. If the tube fits somewhat loose in the steering box, it can be expanded with use of an automotive exhaust pipe expander/spreader tool. (Available at virtually any auto parts store and on eBay.)
4. Apply clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant on the tube to prevent water and dirt from entering the steering box, then install it in the box until it bottoms out.
5. Drill four 1/8" holes spaced 90° apart through the steering box and into the tube.
6. Install 1/8" diameter x 3/8" length pop-rivets to permanently secure the tube to the steering box.
7. If the upper part of the steering box is cracked where the tube goes into, install a 2" worm gear hose clamp, or better yet, use a 1-7/8" automotive exhaust pipe U-bolt clamp to close the crack up, and secure the tube to the box as described above È.
8. Clean the metal drilling from the steering box and tube, and reassemble the unit using lubricating grease and make the necessary adjustments.

NOTE: If the upper part of the steering tube becomes damaged from removing the steering wheel, it can be straightened back to its original shape with the automotive exhaust pipe expander/spreader tool and a 2-3 lb. hammer. The internal steering shaft must be removed, so the tool will work.

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How to "Tighten" a Worn Tie Rod End -

1. Remove the tie rod end from the tractor.
2. Thread a grade 8, 3/8" fine thread bolt into the tie rod and securely clamp the bolt in a bench vise.
3. With the base of the tie rod resting on the jaws of the vise (to prevent bending the bolt), pound the end of the tie rod end with a medium size hammer until the ball is snug in the socket.
4. Lubricate the ball with clean motor oil.
5. Reinstall tie rod end on tractor, adjust toe-in.

If a tie rod end is badly worn and performing the above È doesn't "tighten" it, and you have doubts that it may fail in the future, then by all means, replace it with a known good used one or a new one. Actually, for heavy lawn and garden use or for a pulling tractor, it's best to use aircraft-quality ball-joint ends (Heim joints) with a flat washer and rubber dust/dirt shields installed.

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Front Axle Pivot Pin, Tie Rod Ends, Heim Joints, Drag Link Steering Joints and Custom-Made Steering Links - NOTE: Before ordering any of the parts listed below, it'll be best to completely disassemble your steering assembly and thoroughly clean all the parts to determine exactly which replacement part(s) it will need. Because certain parts wear more than others, while other parts don't wear at all.

Stainless Steel Flat Washer. Necessary to evenly distribute pressure from either steering wheel retaining nuts listed below. 5/8" I.D. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Zinc-Plated Steel Nylon Insert Steering Wheel Retaining Jam Locknut. Will not loosen under normal circumstances. Fits all Cub Cadet garden tractors and other makes and models of garden tractors with 5/8-18 UNF threads on steering shaft. IMPORTANT - For easier installation of nut (and easier removal of steering wheel), use a 5/8-18 UNF threading die (and handle/wrench) to clean/straighten damaged threads on shaft, apply anti-seize compound/lubricant on threads (including splines inside steering wheel and on shaft), then torque nut to 65 ft. lb. High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part # 912-3021. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Zinc-Plated Steel Acorn/Crown/Dome Steering Wheel Retaining Nut. When appearance matters. Fits all Cub Cadet garden tractors and other makes and models of garden tractors with 5/8-18 UNF threads on steering shaft. IMPORTANT - For easier installation of nut (and easier removal of steering wheel), use a 5/8-18 UNF threading die (and handle/wrench) to clean/straighten damaged threads on shaft, apply anti-seize compound/lubricant on threads (including splines inside steering wheel and on shaft), then torque nut to 65 ft. lb. High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part # IH-131506. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Felt Sealing Washer for Upper Steering Column Tube/Shaft. Prevents wear to upper bushing due to contamination of dust and dirt. Not required with sealed bearing listed below. Fits all models of IH- and MTD-built Cub Cadet garden tractors and other makes and models of garden tractors with a 3/4" steering shaft. Made of interwoven wool. Dimensions: 3/4" I.D. x 1-1/4" O.D. x 1/4" thick. High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part #'s 723-3001, 723-3040, IH 405304 R1. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Thick-Wall Flanged Plastic Bushings for Upper Steering Column Tube/Shaft. Replace worn plastic bushing and retainer for easier steering and less wear to lower bearings in steering box. Fits IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor and certain Cub Cadet garden tractor models 72, 73, 86, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 582, 680, 782, 800, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1250, 1450 and 1650, and various other later makes and models of garden tractors without bushing retainer at top of steering column tube. Flanged Plastic Bushing. High quality aftermarket. Dimensions: 3/4" I.D. x 1-3/8" O.D. x 1" height x 1-1/2" O.D. flange. NOTE: Top of steering column tube must be swaged (crimped inward to reduce diameter) with large pliers so bushing will fit snug inside tube. Replaces Cub Cadet 941-3023. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Flanged Plastic Bushing. Dimensions: 3/4" I.D. x 1-13/32" O.D. x 9/16" height x 1-1/2" O.D. flange. Direct fit; no swaging of steering column tube required. OEM Cub Cadet 941-3023. $8.30 each, plus shipping & handling. Thin-Wall Flanged Oil-Impregnated Bronze Bushing for Upper Steering Column Tube/Shaft. Replace worn OEM thin-wall plastic bushing for easier steering and less wear to lower bearings in steering box. Fits upper steering column tube/shaft with a bushing retainer (metal adapter/reducer) originally installed in IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor and Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 100, 102, 122 and 123, and various other early makes and models of garden tractors. OEM bushing and retainer can be replaced with flanged bushing and bearing listed below. Oil impregnated means the hardened metal is porous to absorb oil and grease so it will last longer. Also, the oil acts as a cushion between the bushing and shaft, adding resistance to wear. Dimensions: 3/4" I.D. x 1.003" O.D. x 3/4" height x 1-1/4" O.D. flange. No longer available from Cub Cadet. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-866105-R1. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Thick-Wall Flanged Oil-Impregnated Metal Graphite Bushing for Upper Steering Column Tube/Shaft. Replace worn OEM plastic bushing for easier steering and less wear to lower bearings in steering box. Fits IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor and certain Cub Cadet garden tractor models 72, 73, 86, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 582, 680, 782, 800, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1250, 1450 and 1650, and various other later makes and models of garden tractors without bushing retainer (see above). NOTE: Top of steering column tube must be swaged (crimped inward to reduce diameter) with large pliers so bushing will fit snug inside tube. Oil impregnated means the hardened metal is porous to absorb oil and grease so it will last longer. Also, the oil acts as a cushion between the bushing and shaft, adding resistance to wear. Dimensions: 3/4" I.D. (19mm) x 1-3/8" O.D. (35mm) x 9/16" height x 1-1/2" O.D. flange. Replaces Cub Cadet 941-3023. $3.50 each, plus shipping & handling. Flanged Sealed Ball Bearing for Upper Steering Column Tube/Shaft. Replace worn OEM plastic bushing for easier steering and less wear to lower bearings in steering box. Fits IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor and certain Cub Cadet garden tractor models 72, 73, 86, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 582, 680, 782, 800, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1250, 1450 and 1650, and various other later makes and models of garden tractors without bushing retainer (see above). Dimensions: 3/4" I.D. (19mm) x 1-3/8" O.D. (35mm) x 9/16" height x 1-1/2" O.D. flange. NOTE: Top of steering column tube must be swaged (crimped inward to reduce diameter) with large pliers so bearing will fit snug inside tube. These have hardened, heated-treated steel races and balls, sealed on both sides and pre-packed with grease for longer wear. These are NOT the low quality flanged bearing that's available at most hardware stores. Replaces Cub Cadet 941-3023. $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Bearing/Race Sets for ROSS and CCC Steering Boxes. Fits IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor, and Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 482, 580, 582, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 882, 982, 984, 986, 1912, 1914, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1572, 1604, 1606, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1772, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1872, 2072, including Cub Lo Boy models 154, 184 and 185; Ford LGT; Jacobsen; John Deere models 60, 70, 100, 110, 112, 120, 140, 200, 208, 210, 212, 214, 216, 300, 312, 314, 316, 317 and 400; Massey Ferguson / Harris MF models 14, 16, 1200, 1450, 1650, 1655 and 1855; MTD Farm King; Snapper; Wheel Horse; and various other makes and models of garden tractors with the ROSS or CCC aluminum housing steering box. NOTE: The rounded or curved cup/race is OEM Cub Cadet (no longer available new), and the bearing sets that I offer here come with the flat cup/race, which is aftermarket. These cups/races are interchangeable, so either will fit and function equally. IMPORTANT: For preventive maintenance and smoother steering, lubricate steering box through Zerk grease fitting with an automotive grease gun once a year. Dimensions of each part: 5/16" balls; nylon cages/spacers: 1.500" O.D.; cups/races: 1.550" O.D. [Top of Page] Half Steering Box Bearing/Race Set. Includes: 8 hardened steel balls, 1 nylon cage/spacer (to retain and separate balls) and 1 hardened steel cup/race. High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part #'s 941-3021 (balls/nylon cage/spacer) and 903-1029 (cup/race). $15.00 per half set, plus shipping & handling. Complete Steering Box Bearing/Race Set. Includes: 16 hardened steel balls, 2 nylon cages/spacers (to retain and separate balls) and 2 hardened steel cups/races. High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part # IH-71930-C91 and John Deere part # AM31924 ($69.00 as of 1/25/21). $30.00 per full set, plus shipping & handling.

Foam Rubber Dust/Grease Seal. Fits IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor steering box. Replace or install this part when old one is deteriorated, torn or missing to prevent dust and dirt from entering inside steering box. May also fit various other early makes and models of garden tractors. Will not fit later models of Cub Cadet garden tractors, Ford LGT, Jacobsen, John Deere, Massey Ferguson, MTD Farm King, Snapper, Wheel Horse or IH Cub Lo-Boy. If the opening in your steering box match this part, then it will fit. Part of discontinued OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-376478-R91. $20.00± each, depending on source and availability, plus shipping & handling. (When available.) Foam Rubber Dust/Grease Seal. Fits older ROSS and newer CCC aluminum housing steering boxes in Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 482, 580, 582, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1340, 1440, 1450, 1512, 1535, 1541, 1604, 1606, 1641, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1860, 1861, 1863 and 1864. Also fits Ford LGT, Jacobsen, John Deere, Massey Ferguson, MTD Farm King, Snapper, Wheel Horse and various other early makes and models of garden tractors. Will not fit Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor or IH Cub Lo-Boy. This part replaces the seal in metal thrust plates/retainers IH-394936-R91 and 703-1031 (listed below). Replaces John Deere part #'s M41917 and M45568. OEM Cub Cadet part # 923-3039. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Metal Thrust Plate / Retainer. Fits IH Cub Cadet "Original" Garden Tractor Steering Box. May also fit various other early makes and models of early garden tractors. Will not fit later models of Cub Cadet garden tractors, Ford LGT, Jacobsen, John Deere, Massey Ferguson, MTD Farm King, Snapper, Wheel Horse or IH Cub Lo-Boy. If the opening in your steering box match this part, then it will fit. Part of discontinued OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-376478-R91. Used and in excellent condition. $20.00± each, depending on source and availability, plus shipping & handling. (When available.) Metal Thrust Plate/Retainer. Fits early ROSS aluminum housing steering box in Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 482, 580, 582, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 882, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1604, 1606, 1650, 1710, 1711 and 1712. Also fits Ford LGT; Jacobsen; John Deere models 110, 112, 120, 140, 300 and 316; Massey Ferguson; MTD Farm King; Snapper; Wheel Horse and various other later makes and models of garden tractors with the ROSS steering box. Will not fit Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor or IH Cub Lo-Boy. Used and in excellent condition. Discontinued OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-394936-R91. $20.00± each, depending on source and availability, plus shipping & handling. (When available.) New. NOTE - Inside dimensions of the OEM retainer in IH Cub Cadets (NLA) measures 1.144" width x 1-3/4" length. Inside dimensions of the John Deere retainer measures 1.444" width x 1.825" length. If the opening in your steering box match these dimensions, then this part will fit. But if the opening is smaller than 1.444" x 1.825", it will need to be ground out slightly larger for this part to fit. (Sometimes one must improvise when certain parts are obsolete.) OEM John Deere part # M45569. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Metal Thrust Plate Retainer. Fits newer CCC aluminum housing steering box in Cub Cadet garden tractor models 1050, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1340, 1440, 1535, 1541, 1641, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1860, 1861, 1863 and 1864. May fit various other makes and models of garden tractors with the ROSS steering box. Will not fit Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor or IH Cub Lo-Boy. Discontinued OEM Cub Cadet part # 703-1031. $10.00± each, depending on source and availability, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)

1/2" Diameter Cam Follower (Adjustable Steering Pin). Replace worn cam follower for "tighter" and less "sloppy" or "loose" steering, and for safer operation of tractor. Fits IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor and IH Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 882, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1604, 1606, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1961, 1962, 1963, including many other makes and models of garden tractors with the ROSS steering box. 1/2-20 UNF threads. Does not include jam nut. IMPORTANT: For preventive maintenance and smoother steering, lubricate steering box through Zerk grease fitting with an automotive grease gun once a year. High quality aftermarket/universal fit 1/2" cam follower. Made in USA of extremely hardened, heat-treated high grade steel for long wear. Not machined grade 8 bolt material. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part #'s IH-62806-C2 and IH-379992-R1. $22.00 each, plus shipping & handling. 1/2-20 UNF thread jam nuts - High quality aftermarket. Replaces Cub Cadet part # 712-3029. .50¢ each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Cub Cadet part # 712-3029. $7.50 each, plus shipping & handling. 9/16" Diameter Cam Followers (Adjustable Steering Pins). Replace worn cam follower for "tighter" and less "sloppy" or "loose" steering, and for safer operation of tractor. Fits IH- and MTD-built Cub Cadet garden tractor models 982, 984, 986, 1050, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1340, 1440, 1535, 1541, 1641, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1860, 1861, 1863, 1912, 1914, including many other makes and models of garden tractors with the ROSS steering box. 9/16-18 UNF threads. Replaces John Deere part # M45567. Does not include jam nut. High quality aftermarket/universal fit 9/16" cam follower. Made in USA of extremely hardened, heat-treated high grade steel for long wear. Not machined grade 8 bolt material. $24.00 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Cub Cadet 9/16" cam follower, part # 911-3149A. $49.35 each, plus shipping & handling. 9/16-18 UNF thread jam nut. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part # 712-3062. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

"Easy Steer" Upgrade Kits. Provides easier steering with slightly less effort, especially with a front end loader bucket. Fits all IH- and certain MTD-built Cub Cadet, John Deere, Massey Ferguson, Ford LGT, Jacobsen, MTD Farm King, Wheel Horse and various other makes and models of garden tractors with the ROSS or CCC aluminum housing steering box, except Cub Lo-Boy. Each kit listed below includes new high quality pre-lubricated sealed thrust ball bearing and nylon-insert lock nut. Replaces double OEM jam nuts and thrust washer on 5/8" or 3/4" diameter pitman arm stud. Install bearing with shielding (wording on bearing) against steering box, and tighten nut to remove looseness, then back off nut until pitman arm rotates freely without binding. NOTE: The Easy Steer Upgrade Kit will NOT work on the steering box with the pivot shaft bolt NOT welded to the steering arm in MTD-built Cub Cadet garden tractor models 782, 784, 786, 1340, 1440, 1535, 1541, 1810, 1811, 1861, 1863, 1912 and 1914 because the protruding threads are too short. [Top of Page] "Easy Steer" Upgrade Kit for steering boxes with a 5/8" diameter pitman arm stud. $12.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling. "Easy Steer" Upgrade Kit for steering boxes with a 3/4" diameter pitman arm stud. $27.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.

Adjustment Plug for ROSS Steering Box. Fits all models of IH built (ROSS) and MTD-built (CCC) Cub Cadet garden tractors; Cub Lo-Boy models 154, 184 and 185; Ford LGT; Jacobsen; John Deere models 60, 70, 100, 110, 112, 120, 140, 200, 208, 210, 212, 214, 216, 300, 312, 314, 316, 317 and 400; Massey Ferguson / Harris MF models 14, 16, 1200, 1450, 1650, 1655 and 1855; MTD Farm King; Snapper; Wheel Horse; and various other makes and models of garden tractors with the ROSS or CCC aluminum housing steering box. Dimensions: 1.734" outside of threads diameter. Used and in good condition. Discontinued Cub Cadet part # IH-394288-R1. $30.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)

Front Axle Center Pivot Pin. Fits all IH Cub Cadet narrow and wide frame garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128 129, 147, 149, 169, 800, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1250, 1450 and 1650. Made of hardened steel. Dimensions: 3/4" x 4-3/8" length. IMPORTANT: For preventive maintenance, lubricate Zerk grease fitting with an automotive grease gun once a year. A-1 Miller's fabricated part. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part # IH-384626-R4. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Replacement Spiral Pin for Pivot Pin Above. Dimensions: 3/16" diameter x 1-1/2" length. .75¢ each, plus shipping & handling. Center Front Axle Pivot Pin (Bolt). Fits all Cub Cadet spread frame garden tractor models 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 982, 984, 986, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1282, 1340, 1440, 1541, 1572, 1604, 1606, 1641, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1772, 1782, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1860, 1861, 1862, 1863, 1864, 1872, 1882, 1912, 1914, 2072, 2082, 2084, 2086, 2182 and 2284. Hardened steel bolt with hole through threads for cotter pin. Reuse existing OEM castle nut with a new cotter pin. Dimensions: 3/4-10 UNC x 5-1/4" length. IMPORTANT: For preventive maintenance, lubricate this part through Zerk grease fitting with an automotive grease gun once a year. A-1 Miller's machined part. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part #'s IH-223478-C1 and 710-3019. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Heavy Duty Tie Rod End Steering Joints with incorporated protective rubber dust seal. Each can be used on riding mowers, lawn and garden tractors, ordinary garden tractors, go-karts, King Midget micro cars, small motorized vehicles, competition garden pulling tractors, small wheel mini-rod pulling tractors, compact tractors, automotive throttle linkages, automotive transmission shifter linkages, etc. Allows for up to 20º angle of misalignment without binding. Before initial installation, apply clean motor oil under rubber dust seal to help extend life of ball joint. 1/4-28 UNF right hand thread hole (shank) x 1/4-28 UNF right hand thread stud. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling. 5/16-24 UNF right hand thread hole (shank) x 5/16-24 UNF right hand thread stud. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling. 3/8-24 UNF right hand thread hole (shank) x 3/8-24 UNF right hand thread stud. Most common direct replacement found on most makes and models of lawn and garden tractors. High quality aftermarket. Replaces Cub Cadet part #'s 923-3000 and 923-3018. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling. 3/8-24 UNF right hand thread hole (shank) x 3/8-24 UNF right hand thread stud. OEM Cub Cadet part # 923-3018. $16.70 each, plus shipping & handling. 3/8-24 UNF left hand thread hole (shank) x 3/8-24 UNF right hand thread stud. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. 1/2-20 UNF right hand thread hole (shank) x 1/2-20 UNF right hand thread stud. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. 1/2-20 UNF left hand thread hole (shank) x 1/2-20 UNF right hand thread stud. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Aircraft Quality Heim Steering Joints. Extremely Strong! Upgrade from OEM-type tie rod end joints for durability and use with heavier front end applications. Each can be used on riding mowers, lawn and garden tractors, ordinary garden tractors, go-karts, King Midget micro cars, small motorized vehicles, competition garden pulling tractors, mini-rod pulling tractors, compact tractors, automotive throttle linkages, automotive transmission shifter linkages, etc. Allows for up to 20º angle of misalignment without binding. NOTE: These do not come with the protective rubber dust/dirt seals/shields. (Listed below.) 1/4" hole in ball x 1/4-28 UNF right hand thread hole (shank). $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling. 5/16" hole in ball x 5/16-24 UNF right hand thread hole (shank). $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling. 5/16" hole in ball x 5/16-24 UNF right hand thread stud (shank). $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling. 5/16" hole in ball x 5/16-24 UNF left hand thread stud (shank). $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling. 3/8" hole in ball x 3/8-24 UNF right hand thread hole (shank). Direct replacement for most OEM-type tie rod end joints used on various lawn and garden equipment. $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling. 3/8" hole in ball x 3/8-24 UNF left hand thread hole (shank). $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling. 3/8" hole in ball x 3/8-24 UNF right hand thread stud (shank). Replaces Cub Cadet part #'s 923-3000 and 923-3018. $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling. 3/8" hole in ball x 3/8-24 UNF left hand thread stud (shank). $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling. 1/2" hole in ball x 1/2-20 UNF right hand thread stud (shank). $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. 5/8" hole in ball x 5/8-18 UNF right hand thread stud (shank). $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling. 3/4" hole in ball x 3/4-16 UNF right hand thread stud (shank). $30.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Protective Rubber Seals/Shields for Heim joints listed above. These are a cup-shape neoprene rubber seal bonded to an aircraft quality flat washer. When installed, rubber edge fits snug against Heim joint body to prevent dust, dirt, debris and moisture from entering the spherical ball, which will cause it to wear. Apply clean motor oil on ball before installing seals for easier steering and to extend life of Heim joint. Seals/shields for 1/4" Heim joint not available. Fits 5/16" size Heim joints. $12.00 per pair (for one Heim joint), plus shipping & handling. Fits 3/8" size Heim joints. $12.00 per pair (for one Heim joint), plus shipping & handling. Fits 1/2" size Heim joints. $12.00 per pair (for one Heim joint), plus shipping & handling. Fits 5/8" size Heim joints. $14.00 per pair (for one Heim joint), plus shipping & handling. Fits 3/4" size Heim joints. $15.00 per pair (for one Heim joint), plus shipping & handling. Steel Jam Nuts. These are about half the thickness/width of ordinary nuts. Use these to secure tie rod end joints or Heim joints to tie rod link or drag link to prevent loosening of linkage and maintain proper toe-end alignment or length of linkage. 1/4-28 UNF right hand threads. $1.00 for two nuts, plus shipping & handling. 5/16-24 UNF right hand threads. $1.00 for two nuts, plus shipping & handling. 3/8-24 UNF right hand threads. $1.00 for two nuts, plus shipping & handling. 1/2-20 UNF right hand threads. $1.00 for two nuts, plus shipping & handling. 5/8-18 UNF right hand threads. $2.00 for two nuts, plus shipping & handling. 3/4-16 UNF right hand threads. $2.50 for two nuts, plus shipping & handling.

A-1 Miller's Heavy Duty Custom-Made Steering Linkage Assemblies (Tie Rod Linkage or Drag Link) for your Ordinary Garden Tractor, Go-Kart, Small Motorized Vehicle, Compact Tractor, Mini-Rod, etc. NOTE: When ordering, please specify model of Cub Cadet garden tractor, or exact length of linkage from center of mounting studs (tie rods) or center of mounting bolts (Heim joints), and size of tie rods or ball joints. Or better yet, and if you wish, ship me your original linkage so I can duplicate it into a heavy duty linkage. [Top of Page] Tie Rod Linkage / Drag Link Assembly w/3/8" Right Hand Thread Tie Rod Ends. $30.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Tie Rod Linkage / Drag Link Assembly w/1/2" Right Hand Thread Tie Rod Ends. $50.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Tie Rod Linkage / Drag Link Assembly w/3/8" Right Hand Thread Ball Joint Ends (Heim Joints) without Rubber Dust/Dirt Seals. $30.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Tie Rod Linkage / Drag Link Assembly w/3/8" Right Hand Thread Ball Joint Ends (Heim Joints) with Rubber Dust/Dirt Seals. $54.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Tie Rod Linkage / Drag Link Assembly w/3/4" Right Hand Thread Ball Joint Ends (Heim Joints) with Rubber Dust/Dirt Seals and Heavy Wall Steel Tubing. Replace weak and/or broken OEM tie rod linkage assembly on 4X4 compact tractors with a heavy duty steering linkage assembly. $200.00± each, plus shipping & handling.

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A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Professionally Weld Crack in ROSS (Cub Cadet, John Deere, etc.) Steering Box to Retain Original Strength and Integrity. With steering box completely disassembled and all internal parts removed by customer. $35.00 labor and welding, plus return shipping & handling. With fully assembled steering box. $55.00 labor and welding, plus return shipping & handling.

A-1 Miller's Professional Rebuild/Repair Service for ROSS Steering Box/Column Assemblies for IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor, IH- and MTD-built Cub Cadet, Ford LGT, Jacobsen, John Deere, Massey Ferguson, MTD Farm King, Snapper, Wheel Horse and various other makes and models of garden tractors with the ROSS or CCC (Cub Cadet Corporation) aluminum housing manual steering box. Services include: Completely disassemble steering box assembly, clean and inspect all parts for wear, repair or replace any part that's worn, reassemble, lubricate, then make necessary adjustments until steering works smoothly so it'll provide many more years of trouble-free service. $50.00± labor + extra charge for replacement parts, plus return shipping & handling. IMPORTANT: For preventive maintenance and smoother steering, lubricate steering box through Zerk grease fitting with an automotive grease gun once a year. Replace damaged OEM steering column tube with a new shiny and attractive heavy gauge galvanized steel tubing, which looks nice, especially on the NQS Half Pint competition garden pulling tractor with an exposed steering column tube. $35.00 extra. An original and innovative concept by Brian Miller. FOR SALE: Professionally Rebuilt IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor and Cub Lo-Boy ROSS Steering Box/Column Assembly. NOTE: If we don't have a rebuilt steering assembly that matches yours in stock, we'll rebuild yours instead, and charge you for the parts and labor it takes to rebuild it, plus return shipping & handling. IMPORTANT: For preventive maintenance and smoother steering, lubricate steering box through Zerk grease fitting with an automotive grease gun once a year. $200.00 each with rebuildable core trade-in, plus shipping & handling. (When available.) $250.00 each outright, plus shipping & handling. (When available.) FOR SALE: Professionally Rebuilt IH Cub Cadet ROSS Steering Box/Column Assemblies. NOTE: If we don't have a rebuilt steering assembly that matches yours in stock, we'll rebuild yours instead, and charge you for the parts and labor it takes to rebuild it, plus return shipping & handling. IMPORTANT: For preventive maintenance and smoother steering, lubricate steering box through Zerk grease fitting with an automotive grease gun once a year. Models with the flat steering wheel is 28"± overall length when measured from end of threads on steering shaft to bottom of steering box. $250.00 each with rebuildable core trade-in, plus shipping & handling. (When available.) $300.00 each outright, plus shipping & handling. (When available.) Models with the dished steering wheel is 25"± overall length when measured from end of threads on steering shaft to bottom of steering box. NOTE: If we don't have a rebuilt steering assembly that matches yours in stock, we'll rebuild yours instead, and charge you for the parts and labor it takes to rebuild it, plus return shipping & handling. $250.00 each with rebuildable core trade-in, plus shipping & handling. (When available.) $300.00 each outright, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)

Teflon Thrust Washers for Steering Knuckles and Front Axle. Installs where steering knuckles makes contact with underneath of axle (load-bearing and friction area), and is centered by the steel bushings/spacers (listed below). Provides easier steering with less effort, especially with a snow plow or front end loader bucket. Each Teflon thrust washer listed below fits various makes and models of garden tractors with 3/4", 7/8" or 1" diameter front vertical spindle shafts. These washers are made of very tough, long wearing and slippery polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), and not ordinary nylon or plastic. Reduces steering effort about 85% and eliminates metal to metal friction, which can result in hard steering and wear to axle and steering knuckles (even when knuckles are lubricated once a year). Apply automotive grease when installing. Go here for more information: Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE): Complete Guide. Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512 and 1650, and various other makes and models of garden tractors with 3/4" Diameter Front Vertical Spindle Shafts or 3/4" O.D. Spindle Sleeves (with 1/2" bolts). Dimensions: 3/4" I.D. x 1-1/2" O.D. x 1/16"± thick. $12.00 for two washers, plus shipping & handling. Fits Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor, and other makes and models of garden tractors with 7/8" Diameter Front Vertical Spindle Shafts. Dimensions: 7/8" I.D. x 1-1/2" O.D. x 1/16"± thick. $19.00 for two washers, plus shipping & handling. Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 982, 984, 986, 1340, 1440, 1535, 1541, 1572, 1772, 1782, 1860, 1861, 1862. 1863, 1864, 1872, 1882, 1912, 1914, 2072, 2082, 2084, 2086, 2165, 2182 and 2284, and various other makes and models of garden tractors with 1" Diameter Front Vertical Spindle Shafts. Dimensions: 1" I.D. x 1-1/2" O.D. x 1/16"± thick. $34.00 for two washers, plus shipping & handling.

Steering Knuckle/Front Axle Spacers (Steel Sleeve Bushings). Does not include bolts or castle nuts. Replace worn spacers for dilapidated front tires and for easier steering. Each spacer listed below fits various front axles in Cub Cadet garden tractor models 86, 108, 109, 128, 129, 149, 169, 482, 580, 582, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1450, 1512, 1604, 1606, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811 and 1812. NOTE: The steering knuckles are supposed to "clamp" against these spacers with the OEM bolts/nuts, and the bushings/spacers are supposed to rotate/swivel in the axle housing with movement of the steering knuckles. IMPORTANT: For preventive maintenance and smoother steering, lubricate these parts through Zerk grease fitting with an automotive grease gun once a year. Fits 3" Tall Axles. Please specify which model Cub Cadet you have. Dimensions: 3-1/16"" length x 1/2" I.D. x 3/4" O.D. High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part # IH-544215-R1. $10.00 for two spacers, plus shipping & handling. Fits 4" Tall Axles. Please specify which model Cub Cadet you have. Dimensions: 4-1/16" length x 1/2" I.D. x 3/4" O.D. High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part # 950-3002. $12.00 for two spacers, plus shipping & handling.

Steering Knuckle/Front Axle Bronze Bushings. Replace worn bushings for dilapidated front tires and for easier steering. Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 982, 984, 986, 1572, 1772, 1782, 1872, 1882, 1912, 1914, 2072, 2082, 2084, 2086, 2182 and 2284. Dimensions: 1" I.D. x 1.125" O.D. x 1" Length. Use these to replace existing OEM worn bushings or repair worn (oblong) axle spindle holes when no bushings are originally installed (when the spindles make metal to metal contact with the cast iron axle). If no bushings were originally installed in the axle, then spindle holes must be professionally precision-aligned bored (machined) to accept bushings. Other sizes of bushings are available. IMPORTANT: If no Zerk grease fittings are installed in the axle to lubricate the spindle shafts for easier steering and longevity of the bushings, it's recommended to install these, too. For preventive maintenance and smoother steering, lubricate these parts through these parts through Zerk grease fitting with an automotive grease gun once a year. High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part #'s 741-3005, 941-3005. $18.00/set of 4 bushings, plus shipping & handling.

Do-It-Yourself Weld-In Drop Vertical Spindle Shafts. Make the front of your Cub Cadet competition garden pulling tractor as low as it will go for better weight distribution and more traction when pulling down the track! Lowers front end approximately 2-3/8" on wide and spread frame Cub Cadet garden tractor models 86, 108, 109, 128, 129, 149, 169, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1535 or 1650. Can also be used to construct custom-made front axles, such as for a mini-rod pulling tractor. Standard length of installed [Cub Cadet] spindle shafts is 3-1/8" for wheels with a 3" width center hub, but these are available in any other length to accommodate the width of the center hub in your front wheels. To install, cut off original spindle shafts flush with steering knuckles, and depending on diameter of shafts, drill a 3/4" or 1" hole in knuckles approximately 2-3/8" higher/upward from original shaft location. For front tires to set perpendicular (exact 90° angle) with the ground, replacement shafts will need to be positioned perpendicular with each knuckle, then securely weld shaft to backside of knuckle for non-interference with spacing of wheel/rim. A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please do not accept advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.) [Top of Page] Two Spindle Shafts - 3/4" diameter x 3-1/4" length (from inside edge of flange to end of shaft) with 3/8-16 UNC x 1" depth threaded hole in end of shaft for 3/8" bolt and large flat washer. $40.00 for set of two (1 pair), plus shipping & handling. Two Spindle Shafts - 1" diameter x 3-1/4" length (from inside edge of flange to end of shaft) with 3/8-16 UNC x 1" depth threaded hole in end of shaft for 3/8" bolt and large flat washer. $45.00 for set of two (1 pair), plus shipping & handling. Retaining Bolts and Flat Washers for Front Wheels. Includes two 3/8-16 UNC x 3/4" length grade 8 bolts and two approximately 1/8" thickness x 1-1/2" O.D. flat washers. IMPORTANT: To prevent bolts from loosening, torque each bolt to 360 in. lb. or 30 ft. lb. $5.00 for set of two each, plus shipping & handling. A-1 Miller's Modification Service - Make the front of your Cub Cadet competition garden pulling tractor as low as it will go for better weight distribution and more traction when pulling down the track! This service includes installation of weld-in drop vertical spindle shafts in YOUR steering knuckles to lower the front end approximately 2-3/8" for wide or spread frame Cub Cadet garden tractor models 86, 108, 109, 128, 129, 149, 169, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1535 or 1650. A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. because nobody else advertise this type of service. Install 3/4" spindle shafts with 3/8-16 UNC x 1" depth threaded hole in end of shaft (for 3/8" retaining bolt and flat washer; not included, see below) in your steering knuckles. $80.00 for parts and labor, plus return shipping & handling. Install two 1" spindle shafts with 3/8-16 UNC x 1" depth threaded hole in end of shaft (for 3/8" retaining bolt and flat washer; not included, see below) in your steering knuckles. $85.00 for parts and labor, plus return shipping & handling.

Zerk Grease Fittings. For preventive maintenance, if a grease fitting isn't already installed, one should be installed in [one piece] wheel hubs or outer tubing of a rotating shaft so the [unshielded] bearings/bushings or shaft will last longer when lubricated once a year with an automotive grease gun. Do not use a grease fitting on split rim wheels. Remember - the moving part will likely wear more than the stationary part. To install a grease fitting, drill a 13/64" hole, and use a 1/4-28 UNF TAPER hand tap to cut new threads for installation of the fitting. Click or tap here to learn how to professionally drill for and cut new threads. FYI - If a grease fitting needs to be used in a thin-wall steel tubing (that's too thin to cut deep enough threads into so the threads on the grease fitting will not interfere with the inner shaft) to lubricate a moving inner shaft, weld a jam nut with 1/4-28 UNF threads on the tubing, then drill a 3/16" hole nut/tubing, and install the grease fitting (with short threads) in the nut. Remember - grease fittings provide preventive maintenance when they're used regularly. Because grease cost less than any major repair of equipment. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website] Short Straight fittings. Use for steering ends/joints, spindle shafts, universal joints, etc. High quality aftermarket. Thread-in type. Dimensions: 1/4-28 UNF x .181" length threads x 35/64" overall height x 5/16" hex. Replaces Cub Cadet part # 937-3000. .50¢ each, plus shipping & handling. Press-in type. OEM Cub Cadet part # 937-3000. $4.67 each, plus shipping & handling. Long Straight fitting. Install in front wheel hubs to lubricate bushings or bearings, etc. Dimensions: 1/4-28 UNF threads x 11/16" overall height x 5/16" hex. .50¢ each, plus shipping & handling. 45º Angled Fitting. Use in hard to get places with obstacles. Dimensions of each: 1/4-28 UNF x .222" length threads x 7/8" overall height x 5/16" hex. High quality aftermarket. Replaces Cub Cadet part # 737-3001. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Cub Cadet part # 737-3001. Replaces discontinued 65º fitting, Cub Cadet part # IH-273360. $12.43 each, plus shipping & handling. 90º Angled Fitting. Use in hard to get places with obstacles. Dimensions: 1/4-28 UNF x .207" length threads x 3/4" overall height x 5/16" hex. .75¢ each, plus shipping & handling. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]

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How to Fix a Loose-Fitting Drag Link Arm -

To fix a loose-fitting drag link arm on the narrow frame Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126 or 147, the hub must be "clamped" to the horizontal spindle. To do this...

1. Remove the drag link arm from the spindle.
2. Use a hacksaw to cut a couple of slots in the hub 90° in relation to the roll-pin holes. Cut the slots about 90% down into the hub.
3. Place the arm on the spindle and drill through all three (roll-pin) holes with a 3/8" drill bit.
4. Acquire a hardened (grade 8) 3/8" bolt, split lock washer and hardened (grade 8) nut. Make sure the bolt has an unthreaded (shouldered) portion the same width as the diameter of the hub.
5. Install the bolt in the hub and spindle, then torque the nut to 35 ft. lbs. so the hub is squeezed onto the spindle. NOTE: clamping the hub may weaken the factory spot weld. Therefore, the hub may need to be re-welded to the arm.

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How to Lengthen the Drag Link (link that goes between pitman arm to steering arm on spindle) When the Front Axle is Repositioned Forward:

1. Measure the distance the front axle was moved forward. Make a note of the measurement.
2. Center the steering wheel with the pitman arm facing straight down.
3. With the tires facing forward, measure the center to center distance between the holes in the pitman arm and drag link arm. Make a note of this measurement.
4. Cut the OEM drag link in half as shown in the drawing to the right ->.
5. Acquire some 1/2" i.d. x 5/8" o.d. steel tubing of the distance the front axle was moved forward, plus 6" lengthen than the distance. This is important!
6. Slide 3" of each cut end of the drag link rod inside the tubing. For strength and minimize flexibility, make sure there's at least 3" of the rod inside the tubing on each end. If the rod won't fit, it may need to be ground down and/or pressed in.
7. Adjust the overall length of the lengthened drag link by sliding the rods back and forth in the tubing until the drag link has the added difference of how far the axle have been moved forward.
8. Weld the tubing to the rods. But first, double check the front tires for facing forward and centering of the drag link arm (steering wheel)!
9. Grind the weld smooth, paint and that's it!

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Front Axle Assembly for IH Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127 and 147

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Front Axle Assembly for IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractor models 86, 108, 109, 128, 129, 149, 169, 482, 582, 582 Special, 682, 782, 800, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1250, 1450 and 1650

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Front Axle Assembly for MTD-built Cub Cadet garden tractor models 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 882, 1050, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1282 and 1512.

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Front Axle for Cub Cadet garden tractor models 982, 984, 986, 1572, 1772, 1782, 1872, 1882, 1912, 1914, 2072, 2082, 2084, 2086, 2165, 2182 and 2284

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Front Axle Assembly for Cub Cadet garden tractor models 1340, 1535, 1541, 1860 and 1862

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Front Axle Assembly for Cub Cadet garden tractor models 1440, 1861, 1863 and 1864

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How to Reinforce the Spindle Shafts (Steering Knuckles) on Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 147, 982, 984, 986, 1340, 1440, 1535, 1541, 1572, 1772, 1782, 1861, 1863, 1864, 1872, 1882, 1912, 1914, 2072, 2082, 2084, 2086, 2165, 2182, 2284, 1860 and 1862.

If the front tires on the narrow frame Cub Cadet garden tractor models listed above look "dilapidated" (the tops of the tires tilt inward), this means the spindle shafts are bent from doing too many ground-pounding wheelies and weren't reinforced. If the spindle shafts are bent, to prevent them from getting bent again...

1. Heat the spindle shafts with an oxy-acetylene torch in a hydraulic press to reposition them so the tires will set perpendicular with the ground. Or re-angle the spindle shafts so the tops of the tires will tilt slightly outward for that "tough" look.
2. Install the spindles on the axle, then the tires, and stand away from the front of the tractor to visually check that the tires are positioned perpendicular with the ground. Adjust if necessary.
3. Remove spindles if necessary (this is much easier to do on a platform work table) and weld a 1/4" x 3/4" x 1-3/4" piece of mild steel (brace) in the bend section.

To fix worn holes for the spindles in the axle itself on a narrow frame Cub Cadet garden tractor, the holes will need to be bored or reamed out and a couple of thin-wall bronze bushings pressed-in for the top and bottom ends of the hole. And remember - grease fittings provide preventive maintenance when they're used regularly. Because grease cost less than any major repair of equipment.

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How to Reposition the Front End 2-3/8" Lower on Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Models 86, 108, 109, 128, 129, 149, 169, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1535 and 1650 -

1. Acquire a couple of grade 5 bolts, 3/4" diameter x 5" length.
2. Measure from under the bolt head out 3-1/4", and cut off the bolt, creating a couple of stub shafts that's 3-1/4" length when measured from under the head. (Best to use a small horizontal bandsaw. Cut the threaded end off, but leave the head of the bolt intact.)
3. Chuck each stub shaft in the jaws of a metal lathe and machine the bolt head so it'll be round. Shorten the height of the head to about 3/8" so it will not make contact with the axle when installed.
4. Turn the stub shaft around (end for end) in the chuck and bore a hole in the end of each shaft for a 3/8-16 UNC (coarse thread) wheel retaining bolt and flat washer.
5. Remove the steering knuckles from the axle. (This is much easier to do on a platform work table.)
6. Cut off the original spindle shafts flush with the steering knuckle.
7. Drill a 3/4" hole (for the new spindle/stub shafts) 2-3/8" from the center of the original spindle shaft.
8. Install the stub shafts in the 3/4" holes and securely weld the rounded/shortened bolt heads to the backside of each steering knuckle. For the tires to set perpendicular with the ground, before welding, make sure the shafts are positioned perpendicular (90°) to the flat on the knuckles!
9. Install the steering knuckles on the axle, then the tires, and stand back from the front of the tractor to visually check that the tires are positioned perpendicular with the ground. Adjust if necessary.

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A Pivoting Axle Vs. a Solid-Mounted Axle for Competition Pulling?

I've seen modified garden tractors with a swivel front axle and I've seen some modifieds with a solid-mounted axle. And I noticed that one doesn't pull any better than the other. So it seems it's just the pullers' preference if he or she wants a swivel or solid front axle. And about the only way to fix the looseness of the center pivoting pin hole is to have the axle bored for installation of thin wall bronze bushings, like the ones used for king pins in truck front axles. And remember - grease fittings provide preventive maintenance when they're used regularly. Because grease cost less than any major repair of equipment.

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How to Repair Worn Pivot Pin Holes for the Front Axle -

Sometimes the pivoting pin in the center of the front axle will rust in place and then the pin will pivot in the holes in the support braces. When this happens, overtime the holes will become oblong and the axle will become unstable, causing sloppy steering. Well, to repair a tractor with worn pivot holes like the ones in the photo below Ê...

1. Drill or ream the holes in the braces to exactly 1.000".
2. Fabricate a steel reducer sleeve bushing (spacer) that measures 3/4" i.d. x 1.003" o.d. for a press-fit.
3. Press each bushing in the holes of the braces. Make sure the bushings are aligned properly so the pin will rotate freely to prevent binding.
4. Tack weld the edge of each bushing on the outside of the braces.
5. The center line of the OEM hole in the bracket is 1-1/8" from the frame. But this will be altered due to the offset of the bushing.
6. And remember - grease fittings provide preventive maintenance when they're used regularly. Because grease cost less than any major repair of equipment.

If the center hole in an axle is worn, this can be repaired by first boring the hole for a press-fit steel sleeve and then bore the sleeve so a new center pin (or grade 8 or stainless steel bolt) will fit snug in it. Or, you can also bore the hole in the axle and support bracket with a 20 millimeter diameter (equal to .7874") drill bit or reamer and install a hardened 20 mm bolt. It'll be a lot less work to do just do this.

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Available Soon - Detailed Illustrated Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back Garden Tractor Pulling Sled and a Self-Propelled Garden Tractor/Small Wheel Mini Rod Pulling Sled (Weight Transfer Machines) - (Updated 7/16/24) [Top of Page]

FYI - I'm getting closer to completing my sled plans. But being I have lots of work to do in my shop, I work on designing my sled plans in my spare time. As soon as my plans with an inventory list of parts to use and with illustrations are perfected, I'll post the announcement in my websites. And as for prices of the pull-back sled and self-propelled sled plans, I'm not sure yet. Make me an offer and I'll consider it. And remember - Perfection takes time. If it's worth having, it's worth waiting for. It'll be money well spent. - Brian Miller If interested, please contact me below.

Quality-Built and Nice-Appearing Garden Tractor & Mini Rod Self-Propelled Tractor Pulling Sleds (Weight Transfer Machines) For Sale - (Updated 8/17/24) [Top of Page]

Sleds will be built as orders are placed. A minimum 50% deposit is required for all sled purchases. Buyer/purchaser can test sled with their pulling tractors or vehicles on our 200 ft. dirt track, and then can tow it on the road (like a trailer) or haul it on a large, sturdy trailer. Sleds are designed with style and made beautiful to admire, and painted metallic or color of your choice. Also, sleds are designed to start easy, pull smoothly and sure to stop with grouser bar. They will also have a safety release lever up front so when the weight box tops out and trips it, it will automatically disengage the clutch to prevent major damage to the drive mechanism for the weight box. And it will have another safety release lever at the rear in case the clutch (for the weight box) is engaged when backing up the sled. The self-propelled sleds will have a varible speed mechanical drive system with hydraulics to lower the two front steering wheels/tires, and the bigger sled will use hydraulics to bring the weight box back to its starting position. By the way - the self-propelled garden tractor pulling sled that I built in 1995 (and sold in 2021) is such an excellent design, I realized later that I made something very special when other people copied it. It's still in use today; click or tap photo of it to the right for a larger view.

• Small size, pull-back (non-motorized) sled with open cabin, comfortable swivel seat and controls within easy reach for operator. For use with 1,050 lb. garden pulling tractors and up to 1,500 lb. small wheel (26-12.00x12 tires) mini rod pulling tractors. Length of sled: 12 ft. Total weight of sled fully loaded with weights: approximately 4,000 lb. $6,000.00 each.

• Small size, self-propelled (motorized) sled with open cabin, windshield, comfortable swivel seat for operator comfort and controls within easy reach for operator. Twin cylinder air-cooled small engine and transmission will be positioned forward in sled with weight box drive transmission and clutch system positioned rearward of sled. For use with 1,050 lb. garden pulling tractors and up to 1,500 lb. small wheel (26-12.00x12 tires) mini rod pulling tractors. Length of sled: 16 ft. Total weight of sled fully loaded with weights: approximately 7,000 lb. $25,000.00 each.

• Medium size, self-propelled (motorized) sled with enclosed air-conditioned cabin, comfortable swivel seat for operator comfort and controls within easy reach for operator. Automotive engine (Chevy V8 with glasspack mufflers) and transmissions will be positioned forward in sled with weight box drive transmission and clutch system positioned rearward of sled. For use with mini trucks, big wheel mini rods and antique/classic tractors. Length of sled: 25 ft. Total weight of sled fully loaded with weights: approximately 18,000 lb. $250,000.00 each.

• Prices are subject to change without notice. If interested, please contact me below. And remember - Perfection takes time. If it's worth having, it's worth waiting for. It'll be money well spent.

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To place an order, send your item(s) for repairing, and/or for customer service assistance, and FREE honest and accurate technical support, please contact: Brian Miller of A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises, 12091 N Route B, Hallsville, MO (Missouri) 65255-9604 USA. Please call in your order or send an email with a list parts you need and your contact information. Phone: 1-573-881-7229 (cell; call, text or leave voicemail) or use Whatsapp. Please call Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone, except holidays. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian on the phone, please be patient and understanding because I stutter.) E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. Payment Options. A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone, with an appointment on weekends, except holidays. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's new shop (click image to the right) to personally purchase parts, or drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine and/or parts, etc., for repairing and/or rebuilding. Or visit the address of our (old) shop mentioned above to drop off your engine, transmission, transaxle, garden tractor, small motorized vehicle, etc. We also custom build pulling tractors and other small vehicles. Please contact me before coming so I'll be at my shop waiting for your arrival. When you visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with the owner for the best customer service. 12091 N Route B, Hallsville, MO - Google Maps "The road to a [trusted] friend's house (or shop) is never long." Don't sacrifice quality workmanship for distance. [Return To Previous Paragraph, Section or Website]

By the way - As business is booming, we relocated our business at 12091 N. Route B, Hallsville, MO 65255 with a new, bigger, better, fully insulated, heated and air-conditioned building/shop (shouse) so we can provide many more professional services and high quality parts, and hire more reliable and knowledgeable help to have our customer's parts orders fulfilled sooner, parts repaired sooner and engine rebuilds performed promptly without a long delay. We will also offer custom welding fabrication jobs and other custom services. And we also provide pick up and delivery service and perform professional repairs for various small engines and lawn & garden equipment! Photos of our new building/shop are posted here! 12091 N Rte B, Hallsville, MO - Google Maps

Payment Options, and We Ship to Canada and Worldwide
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S. territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground or equivalent services. We try to keep our shipping cost to customers within reason. Therefore, we don't ship our products in a fancy-looking package with our company name and/or logo on it because most customers will just toss it in the trash after they remove the contents. And being there is no USPS tracking number outside the US, all I can do is make sure I write your address correctly on the customs form and on your package.

My websites are not set up to process orders and accept payments. Therefore, to place an order with me, please call either number above or send an email with a list of parts you need, with your name, complete and correct postal mailing address and phone number. For payment options, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total amount for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge). If paying with a credit/debit card, please call me at either number above. Or to make a payment to me through PayPal, please click this link: https://www.paypal.com. Or use Cash App (username: pullingtractor) or Venmo (username: Pullingtractor) to make a payment to me. And be sure to mention a description of what the payment is for with your full name, postal address, phone number and email address. I also accept payments through Western Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram Money Transfers. If sending a money order or cashier's check, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete mailing address, phone number, email address and a description of what the payment is for. I'll make a note of your order when I have all your information, and I may have to order some of the parts on your list, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send everything to you as soon as I have the parts in stock after I receive your payment.

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