Inspiring Small Engine, Lawn & Garden, and Garden Pulling Tractor
Enthusiasts Since 1996. Where Science and Common Sense Come Together for
Safety and Improved Engine/Tractor Performance
A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises
- Parts & Services Online Catalog
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When building a garden tractor for pulling, it's best to remove and disassemble
everything. (This is much easier to do on a
platform work table.)
Clean and inspect all the parts for wear, especially the steering parts.
This is one important thing many people overlook. Steering is very important,
especially in pulling, and should never be overlooked or neglected. Loose
or worn steering parts can be dangerous. A puller may just tighten the steering
box adjustments, inspect the tie rod ends and that's it. But there's more
to it than just making proper adjustments...
How to Remove the Steering Wheel from a Cub Cadet or Virtually Any Garden
Tractor with a ROSS Steering Assembly - There are several ways to remove
the steering wheel -
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DO NOT STRIKE THE SPLINED END OF THE STEERING
SHAFT WITH A BIG HAMMER IN AN ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THE STEERING
WHEEL! Doing this could cause the internal threads in
the lower part of the cast aluminum steering box housing to split and crack
the case or break off entirely. Or if the housing is cracked, the bottom
of the steering box could break off entirely later, which would be dangerous
because the tractor could go out of control, especially when pulling on the
track.
To prevent damage to the threads on the steering shaft, install an ordinary
length 5/8-18 UNF nut on the shaft threaded down until flush with the end
of the threads, and while pulling upward on the steering wheel with your
hands (assistance/help may be needed), give the nut a short blast with an
air chisel. Do not use the short OEM steering wheel retaining
jam nut because threads on the shaft may become
damaged. AND DO NOT USE A BIG HAMMER!
If the end of the steering shaft was hammered on without the nut installed
in an effort to remove the steering wheel, which caused the threads to become
flared-out or "mushroomed", well, there two ways to fix this... (A-1 Miller's
provides this repair service, too.)
The easy way to fix this is...
-
Use a
hacksaw or
reciprocating saw (also known as a
saw-saw) to cut the damaged threads off the steering shaft
next to the splines.
-
Use a 1/2-20 UNF (plug) hand tap to cut new threads in the [hollow] shaft.
-
Install a 1/2-20 UNF x 1-1/2" length bolt with a flat washer and lock washer
to secure the steering wheel to the shaft.
The more complicated way to fix this and retain the OEM look of the stud
with the retaining nut is...
-
Remove the steering shaft from
the steering box assembly.
-
Cut the damaged threads off the shaft next to the splines.
-
Cut the head off of a 5/8-18 UNF fine thread x 1-1/2" long grade 5 bolt.
-
With the original threaded end of the bolt firmly chucked in a metal lathe
1/2", machine down 1" length of the threads until the newly created shank
is .003" larger in diameter than the hole in the steering shaft. This will
make for a press-fit. Bevel or chamfer the end of the shank for easier insertion
in the steering shaft.
-
Use a
hydraulic press to install the shank into the shaft until
the threads of the bolt bottoms out with the splines.
DO NOT USE A BIG HAMMER TO INSTALL THE BOLT IN
THE SHAFT!
-
Use a drill press or milling machine to
drill a 3/16" hole
through the shaft and shank below or past the splines and install a 3/16"
x 3/4" spiral pin to permanently secure the machined bolt to the steering
shaft.
-
If necessary, grind the end(s) of the spiral pin flush with the shaft so
it will not interfere with the upper bearing.
-
If doing the above didn't work, the splined hub in the steering wheel will
need to be heated, or if necessary, the hub will need to be cut in two with
an
oxy-acetylene torch to remove it from the splined shaft.
Be careful not to damage (melt) the splined shaft!
-
As the last resort, if the steering
shaft itself must be literary cut-off with a
hacksaw or
reciprocating saw (also known as a
saw-saw), just under the steering wheel, the splined part
of the shaft can be replaced with the steering shaft (that's in good condition)
out of a 1949 to 1994 GM car or truck. Only a short section of the splined
end of the shaft will need to be used. The GM shaft next to the splines will
need to be machined down fit inside the ROSS [hollow] steering shaft, then
the GM shaft can be pressed inside the ROSS shaft with an 1/8" gap. Fill
in the gap with welding around where the two shafts meet. The lump of weld
will need to be either machined down (in a metal lathe; for use of a solid
metal bushing) or ground down (with a hand grinder for use of a ball bearing)
so the upper bushing or bearing will slide on the shaft. Installation of
the steering wheel and hub adapter are explained below
Ê.
Replace
that worn, cracked (and not to mention unsightly and boring/plain looking)
OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) steering wheel with an attractive,
small diameter (10" or 12") automotive-style/hot rod
custom steering wheel or a
chrome spoke steering wheel! A custom or chrome spoke steering
wheel will, without a doubt, improve the overall appearance of the entire
tractor.
To adapt a custom steering wheel
to the ROSS [splined end] steering shaft, and if the splines and threads
on the shaft are in good condition, the only custom automotive steering wheel
installation adapter kit I found that fits close on the ROSS splined steering
shaft is an aftermarket early GM steering wheel hub adapter kit,
Grant part # 3196, that's made for most General Motors
cars and trucks from 1949 to 1994 without telescopic steering. Leave out
the horn switch plate and install multiple flat washers on the supplied steering
wheel mounting bolts so the steering wheel will install tight against the
hub. Use the OEM ROSS (Cub Cadet, John Deere, etc.) steering wheel retaining
nut or a 5/8-18 UNF jam nut with a thin flat washer to secure the steering
wheel and hub to the steering shaft. The GM adapter center spline has the
correct diameter, but the number of splines are not a perfect fit, so it
will need to be gently tapped onto the steering shaft. Or the center splined
hub from a 1949 to 1994 OEM GM steering wheel can be used instead. But the
three small holes in the hub will need to be enlarged and tapped for three
1/4" bolts for installation of the custom steering wheel. But if you don't
want to use the GM adapter, the splined hub from an early model Cub Cadet
steering wheel with the spokes cut off, and a large flat washer (with three
tapped 1/4" bolt holes for installation of the custom steering wheel) welded
to the adapter can be used. Once the steering wheel is removed, position
the front tires forward, fasten the splined adapter on the steering shaft
(with the choice of hardware listed below
Ê), then fasten the steering wheel with
the adapter facing in the straight ahead position. For easier installation
of nut (and easier removal of steering wheel), use a 5/8-18 UNF
threading die (and
handle/wrench) to clean/straighten damaged threads on shaft,
apply
anti-seize compound/lubricant on threads (including
splines inside steering wheel and on shaft), then torque nut to 65 ft. lb.
Install the three 1/4" bolts
from the bottom up, install the steering wheel, then install
stainless steel acorn nuts with a split lock washer to
the bolts (studs) to fasten the steering wheel for a nice looking and
(rust-proof) professional look. Then to hide the (unsightly) large center
retaining nut, install a 15/16"
stainless steel lug nut cover. These are made for semi
tractor-trailers, which are available at most truck stops and on eBay. Or,
to hide the three bolts and retaining nut, install a
chrome-plated universal custom
automotive horn button (center cap). To do this, machine a large flat washer
in a metal lathe so the washer will be slightly larger than the inside diameter
of the horn button. Fasten the washer in the steering wheel to the three
1/4" bolts with a couple of stacked smaller flat washers under the large
washer. Snap the horn button onto the washer and that's it! Snap the horn
button onto the washer and that's it!
-
The steering box assembly for the Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor is
part # IH-400904-R91. (The MTD Ranch King and Wheel Horse steering box assemblies
are very similar.)
-
The steering box assembly for Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 72, 73,
86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 109, 122, 123, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129,
149, 169, 482, 580, 582, 680, 682, 782, 784, 800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100,
1200, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1482, 1512, 1604, 1606, 1650, 1710, 1711
and 1712 is part # 703-1085.
-
The steering box assembly for Cub Cadet garden tractor models 982, 984, 986,
1912 and 1914 is part # 703-0230.
-
The lower steering box assembly for Cub Cadet garden tractor models 1340,
1535 and 1541 is part # 703-1794. (Similar to 618-3050.)
-
The steering box assembly for Cub Cadet garden tractor models 1810 and 1811
(S/N 756,300 - 799,999) is part # 731-3001.
-
The lower steering box assembly for Cub Cadet garden tractor models 1440,
1861 and 1863 is part # 618-3050. (Similar to 703-1794.)
-
All other Cub Cadet garden tractors not listed have hydraulic steering.
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How To Fix Loose or "Sloppy" Steering Parts -
To improve the steering on an IH Cub Cadet garden tractor, is to remove,
disassemble, clean, inspect, repair as necessary, reassemble, adjust, then
lubricate the steering box unit with automotive grease through the
Zerk grease fitting. By the way - adjustments
are made much easier with the steering box assembly out of the tractor.
Remember - grease fittings provide
preventive maintenance when they're used regularly. Because
grease cost less than any major repair of equipment.
Don't Be A Slob When Rebuilding A Steering Unit!
Always be professional whenever building or rebuilding anything! Before
reassembling a steering unit, always take the time to provide a neat
and absolutely clean work environment. Make sure that your tools, shop/business
towels, steering parts and hands are clean, too. Don't allow any dust or
dirt to enter the work bench or table, including the steering box and it's
parts. If necessary, place the parts on a large, clean cloth or cardboard
to keep them clean and organized until they're ready to be installed. The
reason everything should be kept as clean as possible is because even the
smallest bit of dirt inside a steering box will "grind away" at the internal
parts, causing unnecessary wear.
How to remove the steering box/column unit from the tractor - (This
is much easier to do on a
platform work table.)
-
Disconnect the battery.
-
Remove the steering wheel. Despite how rusted-on or stuck-in-place it
may be, the OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) steering wheel MUST come
off before the steering box can be removed from the tractor.
-
Remove the mower deck (if equipped).
-
Remove the tie-rod end that's connected to the pitman arm plate (steering
lever).
-
Remove the two 9/16" bolts that fastens the steering box to the cross-member
of the frame.
-
The steering unit then slides out from under the tractor.
How to disassemble the steering unit -
-
Remove the pitman arm plate and shaft.
-
Remove the cotter pin from the end cap.
-
Remove the end cap with a large flat screwdriver or flat ratchet tool by
turning it counterclockwise.
-
Pull or slide the shaft out of the steering box. Use caution not to lose
any of the ball bearings!
-
Clean and inspect everything. Observe the metal bearing retainers for cracks
or breakage. Replace if necessary.
How to reassemble the steering unit -
-
Install the ball bearings in the nylon retainers. Apply lubricating grease
on the balls to hold them in the nylon retainers so they won't fall out upon
installation on the steering shaft.
-
Install the ball bearings on the steering shaft with the metal retainers
to hold them in place.
-
Carefully slide the shaft through the steering box and column until it's
bottomed out. Make sure no balls have fallen out of their retainers.
-
Install the adjustment plug, and tighten it until it's bottomed out. With
Vise-Grips on the splined end of the steering shaft, rotate the shaft in
full rotation to assure smoothness with no looseness or binding.
-
If the shaft feels like it's somewhat difficult to rotate in either direction,
back the adjustment plug off until one of the notches match the hole for
the cotter pin, and rotate the shaft in full rotation again. If it rotates
smoothly with no looseness or binding, install the cotter pin. Back off the
adjustment plug until the notch is against the cotter pin.
-
Pump fresh lubricating grease in the steering box and on/around the steering
worm gear. Fill it up with grease.
-
If it isn't already installed, install the steering cam
follower (steering pin) and locknut in the pitman arm plate.
-
Install the pitman arm plate and shaft, flat
thrust
washer and one adjustment nut.
-
Tighten down the adjustment nut until it's bottomed out and back it off an
1/8 of a turn. Install the other jam/lock nut and tighten it against the
adjustment nut, making sure the adjustment nut doesn't turn.
-
Tighten down the steering cam follower until
it's bottomed out in the steering worm gear groove and back it off about
an 1/8 of a turn.
-
With Vise-Grips on the splined end of the steering shaft, rotate the shaft
in full rotation. If binding occurs or if it feels a little too loose, adjust
the steering cam follower until it feels
satisfactory. But make the adjustment so the steering is a little "stiff",
but not too tight. Because somehow, if it's adjusted too tight, it will stay
too tight, and if it's adjusted "loose", it will loosen up more overtime.
There is no way to prevent this. If the shaft rotates smoothly with no looseness
or binding, tighten the jam/lock nut, making sure the steering cam follower
doesn't turn.
-
Pump a few ounces of fresh automotive chassis lube through the
Zerk grease
fitting to make sure the unit is full. Remember - grease fittings
provide
preventive maintenance when they're used regularly. Because
grease cost less than any major repair of equipment.
-
That's it! The steering unit is now assembled, lubricated and adjusted!
NOTE: If new internal steering box parts are needed in a rebuild, you can
get them at virtually any Cub Cadet garden tractor dealer. Most John Deere
lawn & garden service centers and parts stores offers the same parts
for the steering box in their models 110, 112, 120, 140, 200, 210, 212, 214,
216, 300, 312, 316 and 317. The steering box in these tractors, which is
made by ROSS, are very similar to the ones used in the IH Cub Cadet garden
tractor, except for the mounting holes. The internal parts are basically
the same, but new John Deere parts are more expensive than new Cub Cadet
garden tractor parts.
Ever had the steering column tube get pulled out of the steering box
on a Cub Cadet garden tractor? Well, doing the below
Ê will guarantee that it will never get
pulled out again -
-
Remove the steering box/column assembly from the tractor.
-
Disassemble the entire steering box assembly.
-
If the tube fits somewhat loose in the steering box, it can be expanded with
use of an
automotive exhaust pipe expander/spreader tool. (Available
at virtually any auto parts store and on eBay.)
-
Apply
clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant on the tube to prevent
water and dirt from entering the steering box, then install it in the box
until it bottoms out.
-
Drill four 1/8" holes spaced 90° apart through the steering box and
into the tube.
-
Install 1/8" diameter x 3/8" length pop-rivets to permanently secure the
tube to the steering box.
-
If the upper part of the steering box is cracked where the tube goes into,
install a 2"
worm gear hose clamp, or better yet, use a 1-7/8"
automotive exhaust pipe U-bolt clamp to close the crack
up, and secure the tube to the box as described above
È.
-
Clean the metal drilling from the steering box and tube, and reassemble the
unit using lubricating grease and make the necessary adjustments.
NOTE: If the upper part of the steering tube becomes damaged from removing
the steering wheel, it can be straightened back to its original shape with
the automotive exhaust pipe expander/spreader tool and a 2-3 lb. hammer.
The internal steering shaft must be removed, so the tool will work.
How to "Tighten" a Worn Tie Rod End -
-
Remove the tie rod end from the tractor.
-
Thread a grade 8, 3/8" fine thread bolt
into the tie rod and securely clamp the bolt in a bench vise.
-
With the base of the tie rod resting on the jaws of the vise (to prevent
bending the bolt), pound the end of the tie rod end with a medium size hammer
until the ball is snug in the socket.
-
Lubricate the ball with clean motor oil.
-
Reinstall tie rod end on tractor, adjust toe-in.
If a tie rod end is badly worn and performing
the above È doesn't "tighten" it, and
you have doubts that it may fail in the future, then by all means, replace
it with a known good used one or a new one. Actually, for heavy lawn and
garden use or for a pulling tractor, it's best to use aircraft-quality ball-joint
ends (Heim joints) with a flat washer and rubber dust/dirt shields installed.
Front Axle Pivot Pin, Tie Rod Ends, Heim
Joints, Drag Link Steering Joints and Custom-Made Steering Links -
NOTE: Before ordering any of the parts listed
below, it'll be best to completely disassemble your steering assembly and
thoroughly clean all the
parts to determine exactly which replacement part(s) it will need. Because
certain parts wear more than others, while other parts don't wear at
all.
Stainless Steel Flat Washer.
Necessary to evenly distribute pressure from either steering wheel retaining
nuts listed below. 5/8" I.D. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Zinc-Plated Steel Nylon Insert
Steering Wheel Retaining Jam Locknut. Will not loosen under normal circumstances.
Fits all Cub Cadet garden tractors and other makes and models of garden tractors
with 5/8-18 UNF threads on steering shaft. IMPORTANT - For easier installation
of nut (and easier removal of steering wheel), use a 5/8-18 UNF
threading die (and
handle/wrench) to clean/straighten damaged threads on shaft,
apply
anti-seize compound/lubricant on threads (including splines
inside steering wheel and on shaft), then torque nut to 65 ft. lb. High
quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part # 912-3021.
$3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Zinc-Plated Steel Acorn/Crown/Dome
Steering Wheel Retaining Nut. When appearance matters. Fits all Cub Cadet
garden tractors and other makes and models of garden tractors with 5/8-18
UNF threads on steering shaft. IMPORTANT - For easier installation of
nut (and easier removal of steering wheel), use a 5/8-18 UNF
threading die (and
handle/wrench) to clean/straighten damaged threads on shaft,
apply
anti-seize compound/lubricant on threads (including
splines inside steering wheel and on shaft), then torque nut to 65 ft. lb.
High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part # IH-131506.
$10.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
Felt Sealing Washer for
Upper Steering Column Tube/Shaft. Prevents wear to upper bushing due to
contamination of dust and dirt. Not required with sealed bearing listed below.
Fits all models of IH- and MTD-built Cub Cadet garden tractors and other
makes and models of garden tractors with a 3/4" steering shaft. Made of
interwoven wool. Dimensions: 3/4" I.D. x 1-1/4" O.D. x 1/4" thick.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part #'s 723-3001,
723-3040, IH 405304 R1. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
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Tube/Shaft. Replace worn plastic bushing and retainer for easier steering
and less wear to lower bearings in steering box. Fits IH Cub Cadet "Original"
garden tractor and certain Cub Cadet garden tractor models 72, 73, 86, 104,
105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 582,
680, 782, 800, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1250, 1450 and 1650, and
various other later makes and models of garden tractors without bushing retainer
at top of steering column tube.
-
Flanged Plastic Bushing. High quality aftermarket. Dimensions: 3/4" I.D.
x 1-3/8" O.D. x 1" height x 1-1/2" O.D. flange. NOTE: Top of steering
column tube must be swaged (crimped inward to reduce diameter) with large
pliers so bushing will fit snug inside tube. Replaces Cub Cadet 941-3023.
$6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Flanged Plastic Bushing. Dimensions: 3/4" I.D. x 1-13/32" O.D. x 9/16" height
x 1-1/2" O.D. flange. Direct fit; no swaging of steering column tube
required. OEM Cub Cadet 941-3023. $8.30 each, plus shipping &
handling.
Thin-Wall Flanged Oil-Impregnated
Bronze Bushing for Upper Steering Column Tube/Shaft. Replace worn OEM thin-wall
plastic bushing for easier steering and less wear to lower bearings in steering
box. Fits upper steering column tube/shaft with a bushing retainer (metal
adapter/reducer) originally installed in IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor
and Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 100, 102, 122 and 123, and various
other early makes and models of garden tractors. OEM bushing and retainer
can be replaced with flanged bushing and bearing listed below. Oil impregnated
means the hardened metal is porous to absorb oil and grease so it will last
longer. Also, the oil acts as a cushion between the bushing and shaft, adding
resistance to wear. Dimensions: 3/4" I.D. x 1.003" O.D. x 3/4" height
x 1-1/4" O.D. flange. No longer available from Cub Cadet. Replaces Cub Cadet
part # IH-866105-R1. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Thick-Wall Flanged Oil-Impregnated
Metal Graphite Bushing for Upper Steering Column Tube/Shaft. Replace worn
OEM plastic bushing for easier steering and less wear to lower bearings in
steering box. Fits IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor and certain Cub
Cadet garden tractor models 72, 73, 86, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 124,
125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 582, 680, 782, 800, 982, 984, 986,
1000, 1100, 1200, 1250, 1450 and 1650, and various other later makes and
models of garden tractors without bushing retainer (see above). NOTE:
Top of steering column tube must be swaged (crimped inward to reduce diameter)
with large pliers so bushing will fit snug inside tube. Oil impregnated
means the hardened metal is porous to absorb oil and grease so it will last
longer. Also, the oil acts as a cushion between the bushing and shaft, adding
resistance to wear. Dimensions: 3/4" I.D. (19mm) x 1-3/8" O.D. (35mm)
x 9/16" height x 1-1/2" O.D. flange. Replaces Cub Cadet 941-3023.
$3.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
Flanged Sealed Ball Bearing
for Upper Steering Column Tube/Shaft. Replace worn OEM plastic bushing for
easier steering and less wear to lower bearings in steering box. Fits IH
Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor and certain Cub Cadet garden tractor
models 72, 73, 86, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128,
129, 147, 149, 169, 582, 680, 782, 800, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1100, 1200,
1250, 1450 and 1650, and various other later makes and models of garden tractors
without bushing retainer (see above). Dimensions: 3/4" I.D. (19mm) x 1-3/8"
O.D. (35mm) x 9/16" height x 1-1/2" O.D. flange. NOTE: Top of steering
column tube must be swaged (crimped inward to reduce diameter) with large
pliers so bearing will fit snug inside tube. These have hardened,
heated-treated steel races and balls, sealed on both sides and pre-packed
with grease for longer wear. These are NOT the low quality flanged
bearing that's available at most hardware stores. Replaces Cub Cadet
941-3023. $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
Bearing/Race Sets for ROSS and CCC Steering
Boxes. Fits IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor, and Cub Cadet garden
tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109,
122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 482, 580, 582, 680,
682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 882, 982, 984, 986, 1912, 1914, 1000, 1100, 1200,
1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1572, 1604, 1606, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712,
1772, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1872, 2072, including Cub Lo Boy models 154,
184 and 185; Ford LGT; Jacobsen; John Deere models 60, 70, 100, 110, 112,
120, 140, 200, 208, 210, 212, 214, 216, 300, 312, 314, 316, 317 and 400;
Massey Ferguson / Harris MF models 14, 16, 1200, 1450, 1650, 1655 and 1855;
MTD Farm King; Snapper; Wheel Horse; and various other makes and models of
garden tractors with the ROSS or CCC aluminum housing steering box.
NOTE: The rounded or curved cup/race is OEM Cub Cadet (no longer available
new), and the bearing sets that I offer here come with the flat cup/race,
which is aftermarket. These cups/races are interchangeable, so either will
fit and function equally. IMPORTANT: For
preventive maintenance and smoother steering, lubricate
steering box through Zerk grease fitting with
an
automotive grease gun once a year. Dimensions of each
part: 5/16" balls; nylon cages/spacers: 1.500" O.D.; cups/races: 1.550" O.D.
[Top of Page]
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Half Steering Box Bearing/Race Set. Includes: 8 hardened steel balls, 1 nylon
cage/spacer (to retain and separate balls) and 1 hardened steel cup/race.
High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part #'s 941-3021
(balls/nylon cage/spacer) and 903-1029 (cup/race). $15.00 per half
set, plus shipping & handling.
-
Complete Steering Box Bearing/Race Set. Includes: 16 hardened steel balls,
2 nylon cages/spacers (to retain and separate balls) and 2 hardened steel
cups/races. High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part
# IH-71930-C91 and John Deere part # AM31924 ($69.00 as of 1/25/21). $30.00
per full set, plus shipping & handling.
|
Foam Rubber Dust/Grease Seal.
Fits IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor steering box. Replace or install
this part when old one is deteriorated, torn or missing to prevent dust and
dirt from entering inside steering box. May also fit various other early
makes and models of garden tractors. Will not fit later models of Cub Cadet
garden tractors, Ford LGT, Jacobsen, John Deere, Massey Ferguson, MTD Farm
King, Snapper, Wheel Horse or IH Cub Lo-Boy. If the opening in your steering
box match this part, then it will fit. Part of discontinued OEM Cub Cadet
part # IH-376478-R91. $20.00± each, depending on source and
availability, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
Foam Rubber Dust/Grease Seal.
Fits older ROSS and newer CCC aluminum housing steering boxes in Cub Cadet
garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108,
109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 482, 580, 582,
680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211,
1250, 1282, 1340, 1440, 1450, 1512, 1535, 1541, 1604, 1606, 1641, 1650, 1710,
1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1860, 1861, 1863 and 1864. Also fits
Ford LGT, Jacobsen, John Deere, Massey Ferguson, MTD Farm King, Snapper,
Wheel Horse and various other early makes and models of garden tractors.
Will not fit Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor or IH Cub Lo-Boy. This part
replaces the seal in metal thrust plates/retainers IH-394936-R91 and 703-1031
(listed below). Replaces John Deere part #'s M41917 and M45568. OEM Cub Cadet
part # 923-3039. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Metal Thrust Plate / Retainer.
Fits IH Cub Cadet "Original" Garden Tractor Steering Box. May also fit various
other early makes and models of early garden tractors. Will not fit later
models of Cub Cadet garden tractors, Ford LGT, Jacobsen, John Deere, Massey
Ferguson, MTD Farm King, Snapper, Wheel Horse or IH Cub Lo-Boy. If the opening
in your steering box match this part, then it will fit. Part of discontinued
OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-376478-R91. Used and in excellent condition.
$20.00± each, depending on source and availability, plus shipping
& handling. (When available.)
Metal Thrust Plate/Retainer. Fits
early ROSS aluminum housing steering box in Cub Cadet garden tractor models
70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124,
125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 482, 580, 582, 680, 682, 782, 782D,
784, 800, 882, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1604,
1606, 1650, 1710, 1711 and 1712. Also fits Ford LGT; Jacobsen; John Deere
models 110, 112, 120, 140, 300 and 316; Massey Ferguson; MTD Farm King; Snapper;
Wheel Horse and various other later makes and models of garden tractors with
the ROSS steering box. Will not fit Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor or
IH Cub Lo-Boy.
-
Used and in excellent condition. Discontinued OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-394936-R91.
$20.00± each, depending on source and availability, plus shipping
& handling. (When available.)
-
New. NOTE - Inside dimensions of the OEM retainer
in IH Cub Cadets (NLA) measures 1.144" width x 1-3/4" length. Inside dimensions
of the John Deere retainer measures 1.444" width x 1.825" length. If the
opening in your steering box match these dimensions, then this part will
fit. But if the opening is smaller than 1.444" x 1.825", it will need to
be ground out slightly larger for this part to fit. (Sometimes
one must improvise when certain parts are obsolete.) OEM John Deere part
# M45569. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Metal Thrust Plate Retainer.
Fits newer CCC aluminum housing steering box in Cub Cadet garden tractor
models 1050, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1340, 1440, 1535, 1541, 1641, 1806, 1810,
1811, 1812, 1860, 1861, 1863 and 1864. May fit various other makes and models
of garden tractors with the ROSS steering box. Will not fit Cub Cadet "Original"
garden tractor or IH Cub Lo-Boy. Discontinued OEM Cub Cadet part # 703-1031.
$10.00± each, depending on source and availability, plus shipping
& handling. (When available.) |
 1/2" Diameter Cam Follower (Adjustable Steering Pin). Replace
worn cam follower for "tighter" and less "sloppy" or "loose" steering, and
for safer operation of tractor. Fits IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor
and IH Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104,
105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149,
169, 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 882, 1000,
1100, 1200, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1604, 1606, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1961,
1962, 1963, including many other makes and models of garden tractors with
the ROSS steering box. 1/2-20 UNF threads. Does not include
jam nut. IMPORTANT: For
preventive maintenance and smoother steering, lubricate
steering box through Zerk grease fitting with
an
automotive grease gun once a year.
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High quality aftermarket/universal fit 1/2" cam follower. Made in USA of
extremely hardened, heat-treated high grade steel for long wear. Not machined
grade 8 bolt material. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part #'s IH-62806-C2
and IH-379992-R1. $22.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
1/2-20
UNF thread jam nuts -
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Cub Cadet part # 712-3029.
.50¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Cub Cadet part # 712-3029. $7.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
9/16" Diameter Cam Followers
(Adjustable Steering Pins). Replace worn cam follower for "tighter" and less
"sloppy" or "loose" steering, and for safer operation of tractor. Fits IH-
and MTD-built Cub Cadet garden tractor models 982, 984, 986, 1050, 1204,
1210, 1211, 1340, 1440, 1535, 1541, 1641, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1860, 1861,
1863, 1912, 1914, including many other makes and models of garden tractors
with the ROSS steering box. 9/16-18 UNF threads. Replaces John Deere part
# M45567. Does not include
jam nut.
-
High quality aftermarket/universal fit 9/16" cam follower. Made in USA of
extremely hardened, heat-treated high grade steel for long wear. Not machined
grade 8 bolt material. $24.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Cub Cadet 9/16" cam follower, part # 911-3149A. $49.35 each, plus
shipping & handling.
-
9/16-18
UNF thread jam nut. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part # 712-3062.
$1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
"Easy
Steer" Upgrade Kits. Provides easier steering with slightly less
effort, especially with a front end loader bucket. Fits all IH- and certain
MTD-built Cub Cadet, John Deere, Massey Ferguson, Ford LGT, Jacobsen, MTD
Farm King, Wheel Horse and various other makes and models of garden tractors
with the ROSS or CCC aluminum housing steering box, except Cub Lo-Boy.
Each kit listed below includes new high quality pre-lubricated sealed thrust
ball bearing and nylon-insert lock nut. Replaces double OEM
jam nuts
and
thrust
washer on 5/8" or 3/4" diameter pitman arm stud. Install bearing with
shielding (wording on bearing) against steering box, and tighten nut to remove
looseness, then back off nut until pitman arm rotates freely without binding.
NOTE: The Easy Steer Upgrade Kit will NOT work on the steering box with
the pivot shaft bolt NOT welded to the steering arm in MTD-built Cub Cadet
garden tractor models 782, 784, 786, 1340, 1440, 1535, 1541, 1810, 1811,
1861, 1863, 1912 and 1914 because the protruding threads are too short.
[Top of Page]
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"Easy Steer" Upgrade Kit for steering boxes with a 5/8" diameter pitman arm
stud. $12.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
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"Easy Steer" Upgrade Kit for steering boxes with a 3/4" diameter pitman arm
stud. $27.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
|
Adjustment Plug for ROSS
Steering Box. Fits all models of IH built (ROSS) and MTD-built (CCC) Cub
Cadet garden tractors; Cub Lo-Boy models 154, 184 and 185; Ford LGT; Jacobsen;
John Deere models 60, 70, 100, 110, 112, 120, 140, 200, 208, 210, 212, 214,
216, 300, 312, 314, 316, 317 and 400; Massey Ferguson / Harris MF models
14, 16, 1200, 1450, 1650, 1655 and 1855; MTD Farm King; Snapper; Wheel Horse;
and various other makes and models of garden tractors with the ROSS or
CCC aluminum housing steering box. Dimensions: 1.734" outside of threads
diameter. Used and in good condition. Discontinued Cub Cadet part # IH-394288-R1.
$30.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.) |
Front Axle Center Pivot
Pin. Fits all IH Cub Cadet narrow and wide frame garden tractor models 70,
71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125,
126, 127, 128 129, 147, 149, 169, 800, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1250, 1450 and 1650.
Made of hardened steel. Dimensions: 3/4" x 4-3/8" length. IMPORTANT: For
preventive maintenance, lubricate
Zerk grease fitting with an
automotive grease gun once a year.
-
A-1 Miller's fabricated part. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part #
IH-384626-R4. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
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Replacement Spiral Pin for Pivot Pin Above. Dimensions: 3/16" diameter x
1-1/2" length. .75¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
Center Front Axle Pivot Pin
(Bolt). Fits all Cub Cadet spread frame garden tractor models 482, 580, 582,
582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 982, 984, 986, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1282,
1340, 1440, 1541, 1572, 1604, 1606, 1641, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1772, 1782, 1806,
1810, 1811, 1812, 1860, 1861, 1862, 1863, 1864, 1872, 1882, 1912, 1914, 2072,
2082, 2084, 2086, 2182 and 2284. Hardened steel bolt with hole through threads
for cotter pin. Reuse existing OEM castle nut with a new cotter pin. Dimensions:
3/4-10 UNC x 5-1/4" length. IMPORTANT: For
preventive maintenance, lubricate this part through
Zerk grease fitting with an
automotive grease gun once a year.
-
A-1 Miller's machined part. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part #'s IH-223478-C1
and 710-3019. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Heavy Duty Tie Rod End Steering
Joints with incorporated protective rubber dust seal. Each can be used on
riding mowers, lawn and garden tractors, ordinary garden tractors, go-karts,
King Midget micro cars, small motorized vehicles,
competition garden pulling tractors, small wheel mini-rod pulling tractors,
compact tractors, automotive throttle linkages, automotive transmission shifter
linkages, etc. Allows for up to 20º angle of misalignment without binding.
Before initial installation, apply clean motor oil under rubber dust seal
to help extend life of ball joint.
-
1/4-28 UNF right hand thread hole (shank) x 1/4-28 UNF right hand thread
stud. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
5/16-24 UNF right hand thread hole (shank) x 5/16-24 UNF right hand thread
stud. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
3/8-24 UNF right hand thread hole (shank) x 3/8-24 UNF right hand thread
stud. Most common direct replacement found on most makes and models of
lawn and garden tractors. High quality aftermarket. Replaces Cub Cadet
part #'s 923-3000 and 923-3018. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
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3/8-24 UNF right hand thread hole (shank) x 3/8-24 UNF right hand thread
stud. OEM Cub Cadet part # 923-3018. $16.70 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
3/8-24 UNF left hand thread hole (shank) x 3/8-24 UNF right hand thread
stud. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
1/2-20 UNF right hand thread hole (shank) x 1/2-20 UNF right hand thread
stud. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
1/2-20 UNF left hand thread hole (shank) x 1/2-20 UNF right hand thread
stud. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Aircraft Quality
Heim Steering
Joints. Extremely Strong! Upgrade from OEM-type tie rod end joints for
durability and use with heavier front end applications. Each can be used
on riding mowers, lawn and garden tractors, ordinary garden tractors, go-karts,
King Midget micro cars, small motorized vehicles,
competition garden pulling tractors, mini-rod pulling tractors, compact tractors,
automotive throttle linkages, automotive transmission shifter linkages, etc.
Allows for up to 20º angle of misalignment without binding. NOTE:
These do not come with the protective rubber dust/dirt seals/shields. (Listed
below.)
-
1/4" hole in ball x 1/4-28 UNF right hand thread hole (shank). $12.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
5/16" hole in ball x 5/16-24 UNF right hand thread hole (shank).
$12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
5/16" hole in ball x 5/16-24 UNF right hand thread stud (shank).
$12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
5/16" hole in ball x 5/16-24 UNF left hand thread stud (shank).
$12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
3/8" hole in ball x 3/8-24 UNF right hand thread hole (shank). Direct replacement
for most OEM-type tie rod end joints used on various lawn and garden equipment.
$12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
3/8" hole in ball x 3/8-24 UNF left hand thread hole (shank).
$12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
3/8" hole in ball x 3/8-24 UNF right hand thread stud (shank). Replaces Cub
Cadet part #'s 923-3000 and 923-3018. $12.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
3/8" hole in ball x 3/8-24 UNF left hand thread stud (shank).
$12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
1/2" hole in ball x 1/2-20 UNF right hand thread stud (shank). $15.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
5/8" hole in ball x 5/8-18 UNF right hand thread stud (shank). $25.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
3/4" hole in ball x 3/4-16 UNF right hand thread stud (shank). $30.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
Protective Rubber Seals/Shields
for Heim joints listed above. These are a cup-shape neoprene rubber seal
bonded to an aircraft quality flat washer. When installed, rubber edge fits
snug against Heim joint body to prevent dust, dirt, debris and moisture from
entering the spherical ball, which will cause it to wear. Apply clean motor
oil on ball before installing seals for easier steering and to extend life
of Heim joint. Seals/shields for 1/4" Heim joint not available.
-
Fits 5/16" size Heim joints. $12.00 per pair (for one Heim joint),
plus shipping & handling.
-
Fits 3/8" size Heim joints. $12.00 per pair (for one Heim joint),
plus shipping & handling.
-
Fits 1/2" size Heim joints. $12.00 per pair (for one Heim joint),
plus shipping & handling.
-
Fits 5/8" size Heim joints. $14.00 per pair (for one Heim joint),
plus shipping & handling.
-
Fits 3/4" size Heim joints. $15.00 per pair (for one Heim joint),
plus shipping & handling.
Steel Jam Nuts. These are about
half the thickness/width of ordinary nuts. Use these to secure tie rod end
joints or Heim joints to tie rod link or drag link to prevent loosening of
linkage and maintain proper toe-end alignment or length of linkage.
-
1/4-28 UNF right hand threads. $1.00 for two nuts, plus shipping
& handling.
-
5/16-24 UNF right hand threads. $1.00 for two nuts, plus shipping
& handling.
-
3/8-24 UNF right hand threads. $1.00 for two nuts, plus shipping
& handling.
-
1/2-20 UNF right hand threads. $1.00 for two nuts, plus shipping
& handling.
-
5/8-18 UNF right hand threads. $2.00 for two nuts, plus shipping
& handling.
-
3/4-16 UNF right hand threads. $2.50 for two nuts, plus shipping
& handling.
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A-1 Miller's Heavy Duty
Custom-Made Steering Linkage Assemblies (Tie Rod Linkage or
Drag Link) for your Ordinary Garden Tractor, Go-Kart, Small Motorized Vehicle,
Compact Tractor, Mini-Rod, etc. NOTE: When ordering, please specify model
of Cub Cadet garden tractor, or exact length of linkage from center of mounting
studs (tie rods) or center of mounting bolts (Heim joints), and size of tie
rods or ball joints. Or better yet, and if you wish, ship me your original
linkage so I can duplicate it into a heavy duty linkage.
[Top of Page]
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Tie Rod Linkage / Drag Link Assembly w/3/8" Right Hand Thread Tie Rod Ends.
$30.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
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Tie Rod Linkage / Drag Link Assembly w/1/2" Right Hand Thread Tie Rod Ends.
$50.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
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Tie Rod Linkage / Drag Link Assembly w/3/8" Right Hand Thread Ball Joint
Ends (Heim Joints) without Rubber Dust/Dirt Seals. $30.00 each, plus
shipping & handling.
-
Tie Rod Linkage / Drag Link Assembly w/3/8" Right Hand Thread Ball Joint
Ends (Heim Joints) with Rubber Dust/Dirt Seals. $54.00 each, plus
shipping & handling.
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Tie Rod Linkage / Drag Link Assembly w/3/4" Right Hand Thread Ball Joint
Ends (Heim Joints) with Rubber Dust/Dirt Seals and Heavy Wall Steel Tubing.
Replace weak and/or broken OEM tie rod linkage assembly on 4X4 compact
tractors with a heavy duty steering linkage assembly.
$200.00± each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Click here
to contact A-1 Miller's for FREE honest and accurate technical support and/or
for ordering information and payment
options. Please contact
A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service performed that's not
listed or mentioned in this website. [Top of
Page]
A-1 Miller's Professional
Repair Service - Professionally Weld Crack in ROSS (Cub Cadet, John Deere,
etc.) Steering Box to Retain Original Strength and Integrity.
-
With steering box completely disassembled and all internal parts removed
by customer. $35.00 labor and welding, plus return shipping &
handling.
-
With fully assembled steering box. $55.00 labor and welding, plus
return shipping & handling.
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A-1
Miller's Professional Rebuild/Repair Service for ROSS Steering Box/Column
Assemblies for IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor, IH- and MTD-built
Cub Cadet, Ford LGT, Jacobsen, John Deere, Massey Ferguson, MTD Farm King,
Snapper, Wheel Horse and various other makes and models of garden tractors
with the ROSS or CCC (Cub Cadet Corporation) aluminum housing manual
steering box. Services include: Completely disassemble steering box assembly,
clean and inspect all parts for wear, repair or replace any part that's worn,
reassemble, lubricate, then make necessary adjustments until steering works
smoothly so it'll provide many more years of trouble-free service.
$50.00± labor + extra charge for replacement parts, plus return
shipping & handling. IMPORTANT: For
preventive maintenance and smoother steering, lubricate
steering box through Zerk grease fitting with
an
automotive grease gun once a year.
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Replace damaged OEM steering column tube with a new shiny and attractive
heavy gauge galvanized steel tubing, which looks nice, especially on the
NQS Half Pint competition garden pulling tractor with an
exposed steering column tube. $35.00 extra.
FOR SALE: Professionally Rebuilt IH Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor
and Cub Lo-Boy ROSS Steering Box/Column Assembly. NOTE: If we don't have
a rebuilt steering assembly that matches yours in stock, we'll rebuild yours
instead, and charge you for the parts and labor it takes to rebuild it, plus
return shipping & handling. IMPORTANT: For
preventive maintenance and smoother steering, lubricate
steering box through Zerk grease fitting with
an
automotive grease gun once a year.
-
$200.00 each with rebuildable core trade-in, plus shipping & handling.
(When available.)
-
$250.00 each outright, plus shipping & handling. (When
available.)
FOR SALE: Professionally Rebuilt IH Cub Cadet ROSS Steering Box/Column
Assemblies. NOTE: If we don't have a rebuilt steering assembly that matches
yours in stock, we'll rebuild yours instead, and charge you for the parts
and labor it takes to rebuild it, plus return shipping & handling.
IMPORTANT: For
preventive maintenance and smoother steering, lubricate
steering box through Zerk grease fitting with
an
automotive grease gun once a year.
-
Models with the flat steering wheel is 28"± overall length when measured
from end of threads on steering shaft to bottom of steering box.
-
$250.00 each with rebuildable core trade-in, plus shipping & handling.
(When available.)
-
$300.00 each outright, plus shipping & handling. (When
available.)
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Models with the dished steering wheel is 25"± overall length when measured
from end of threads on steering shaft to bottom of steering box. NOTE:
If we don't have a rebuilt steering assembly that matches yours in stock,
we'll rebuild yours instead, and charge you for the parts and labor it takes
to rebuild it, plus return shipping & handling.
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$250.00 each with rebuildable core trade-in, plus shipping & handling.
(When available.)
-
$300.00 each outright, plus shipping & handling. (When
available.)
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 Teflon Thrust Washers for Steering Knuckles and Front
Axle. Installs where steering knuckles makes contact with underneath
of axle (load-bearing and friction area), and is centered by the steel
bushings/spacers (listed below). Provides easier steering with less effort,
especially with a snow plow or front end loader bucket. Each Teflon thrust
washer listed below fits various makes and models of garden tractors with
3/4", 7/8" or 1" diameter front vertical spindle shafts. These washers are
made of very tough, long wearing and slippery
polytetrafluoroethylene
(PTFE), and not ordinary nylon or plastic. Reduces steering effort about
85% and eliminates metal to metal friction, which can result in hard steering
and wear to axle and steering knuckles (even when knuckles are lubricated
once a year). Apply automotive grease when installing. Go here for more
information:
Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE): Complete Guide.
-
Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105,
106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169,
482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100,
1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512 and 1650, and various other
makes and models of garden tractors with 3/4" Diameter Front Vertical Spindle
Shafts or 3/4" O.D. Spindle Sleeves (with 1/2" bolts). Dimensions: 3/4" I.D.
x 1-1/2" O.D. x 1/16"± thick. $12.00 for two washers, plus shipping
& handling.
-
Fits Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor, and other makes and models of garden
tractors with 7/8" Diameter Front Vertical Spindle Shafts. Dimensions: 7/8"
I.D. x 1-1/2" O.D. x 1/16"± thick. $19.00 for two washers, plus
shipping & handling.
-
Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 982, 984, 986, 1340, 1440, 1535, 1541,
1572, 1772, 1782, 1860, 1861, 1862. 1863, 1864, 1872, 1882, 1912, 1914, 2072,
2082, 2084, 2086, 2165, 2182 and 2284, and various other makes and models
of garden tractors with 1" Diameter Front Vertical Spindle Shafts. Dimensions:
1" I.D. x 1-1/2" O.D. x 1/16"± thick. $34.00 for two washers,
plus shipping & handling.
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 Steering Knuckle/Front Axle Spacers (Steel Sleeve Bushings).
Does not include bolts or castle nuts. Replace worn spacers for dilapidated
front tires and for easier steering. Each spacer listed below fits various
front axles in Cub Cadet garden tractor models 86, 108, 109, 128, 129, 149,
169, 482, 580, 582, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100,
1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1450, 1512, 1604, 1606, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712,
1806, 1810, 1811 and 1812. NOTE: The steering knuckles are supposed to
"clamp" against these spacers with the OEM bolts/nuts, and the bushings/spacers
are supposed to rotate/swivel in the axle housing with movement of the steering
knuckles. IMPORTANT: For
preventive maintenance and smoother steering, lubricate
these parts through Zerk grease fitting with
an
automotive grease gun once a year.
-
Fits 3" Tall Axles. Please specify which model Cub Cadet you have.
Dimensions: 3-1/16"" length x 1/2" I.D. x 3/4" O.D. High quality aftermarket.
Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part # IH-544215-R1. $10.00 for two
spacers, plus shipping & handling.
-
Fits 4" Tall Axles. Please specify which model Cub Cadet you have.
Dimensions: 4-1/16" length x 1/2" I.D. x 3/4" O.D. High quality aftermarket.
Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part # 950-3002. $12.00 for two spacers,
plus shipping & handling.
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    Steering
Knuckle/Front Axle Bronze Bushings. Replace worn bushings for dilapidated
front tires and for easier steering. Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models
982, 984, 986, 1572, 1772, 1782, 1872, 1882, 1912, 1914, 2072, 2082, 2084,
2086, 2182 and 2284. Dimensions: 1" I.D. x 1.125" O.D. x 1" Length. Use these
to replace existing OEM worn bushings or repair worn (oblong) axle spindle
holes when no bushings are originally installed (when the spindles make metal
to metal contact with the cast iron axle). If no bushings were originally
installed in the axle, then spindle holes must be professionally
precision-aligned bored (machined) to accept bushings. Other sizes of bushings
are available. IMPORTANT: If no Zerk grease
fittings are installed in the axle to lubricate the spindle shafts for
easier steering and longevity of the bushings, it's recommended to install
these, too. For
preventive maintenance and smoother steering, lubricate
these parts through these parts through Zerk grease
fitting with an
automotive grease gun once a year. High quality
aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part #'s 741-3005, 941-3005.
$18.00/set of 4 bushings, plus shipping & handling. |
 Do-It-Yourself Weld-In Drop Vertical
Spindle Shafts. Make the front of your Cub Cadet competition
garden pulling tractor as low as it will go for better weight distribution
and more traction when pulling down the track! Lowers front end approximately
2-3/8" on wide and spread frame Cub Cadet garden tractor models 86, 108,
109, 128, 129, 149, 169, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 800, 882, 1000,
1050, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1535 or 1650.
Can also be used to construct custom-made front axles, such as for a mini-rod
pulling tractor. Standard length of installed [Cub Cadet] spindle shafts
is 3-1/8" for wheels with a 3" width center hub, but these are available
in any other length to accommodate the width of the center hub in your front
wheels. To install, cut off original spindle shafts flush with steering
knuckles, and depending on diameter of shafts, drill a 3/4" or 1" hole in
knuckles approximately 2-3/8" higher/upward from original shaft location.
For front tires to set perpendicular (exact 90° angle) with the ground,
replacement shafts will need to be positioned perpendicular with each knuckle,
then securely weld shaft to backside of knuckle for non-interference with
spacing of wheel/rim. [Top of Page]
-
Two Spindle Shafts - 3/4" diameter x 3-1/4" length (from inside edge of flange
to end of shaft) with 3/8-16 UNC x 1" depth threaded hole in end of shaft
for 3/8" bolt and large flat washer. $40.00 for set of two (1 pair),
plus shipping & handling.
-
Two Spindle Shafts - 1" diameter x 3-1/4" length (from inside edge of flange
to end of shaft) with 3/8-16 UNC x 1" depth threaded hole in end of shaft
for 3/8" bolt and large flat washer. $45.00 for set of two (1 pair),
plus shipping & handling.
 Retaining Bolts and Flat Washers for Front Wheels. Includes
two 3/8-16 UNC x 3/4" length grade 8 bolts and two approximately 1/8" thickness
x 1-1/2" O.D. flat washers. IMPORTANT: To prevent bolts from loosening,
torque each bolt to 360 in. lb. or 30 ft. lb. $5.00 for set of
two each, plus shipping & handling.
A-1 Miller's Modification
Service - Make the front of your Cub Cadet competition garden pulling
tractor as low as it will go for better weight distribution and more traction
when pulling down the track! This service includes installation of weld-in
drop vertical spindle shafts in YOUR steering knuckles to lower the front
end approximately 2-3/8" for wide or spread frame Cub Cadet garden tractor
models 86, 108, 109, 128, 129, 149, 169, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782,
800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512,
1535 or 1650.
-
Install 3/4" spindle shafts with 3/8-16 UNC x 1" depth threaded hole in end
of shaft (for 3/8" retaining bolt and flat washer; not included, see below)
in your steering knuckles. $80.00 for parts and labor, plus return
shipping & handling.
-
Install two 1" spindle shafts with 3/8-16 UNC x 1" depth threaded hole in
end of shaft (for 3/8" retaining bolt and flat washer; not included, see
below) in your steering knuckles. $85.00 for parts and labor, plus
return shipping & handling.
|
Zerk
Grease Fittings. For preventive maintenance, if a grease fitting isn't
already installed, one should be installed in [one piece] wheel hubs or outer
tubing of a rotating shaft so the [unshielded] bearings/bushings or shaft
will last longer when lubricated once a year with an
automotive grease gun. Do not use a grease fitting on split
rim wheels. Remember - the moving part will likely wear more than the stationary
part. To install a grease fitting, drill a 13/64" hole, and use a 1/4-28
UNF TAPER hand tap to cut new threads for installation of the fitting.
Click or tap here to
learn how to professionally drill for and cut new threads. FYI - If a
grease fitting needs to be used in a thin-wall steel tubing (that's too thin
to cut deep enough threads into so the threads on the grease fitting will
not interfere with the inner shaft) to lubricate a moving inner shaft, weld
a
jam nut with 1/4-28 UNF threads on the tubing, then drill
a 3/16" hole nut/tubing, and install the grease fitting (with short threads)
in the nut. Remember - grease fittings provide
preventive maintenance when they're used regularly. Because
grease cost less than any major repair of equipment.
[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
-
Short Straight fittings. Use for steering ends/joints, spindle shafts, universal
joints, etc.
-
High quality aftermarket. Thread-in type. Dimensions: 1/4-28 UNF x .181"
length threads x 35/64" overall height x 5/16" hex. Replaces Cub Cadet part
# 937-3000. .50¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Press-in type. OEM Cub Cadet part # 937-3000. $4.67 each, plus shipping
& handling.
-
Long Straight fitting. Install in front wheel hubs to lubricate bushings
or bearings, etc. Dimensions: 1/4-28 UNF threads x 11/16" overall height
x 5/16" hex. .50¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
-
45º Angled Fitting. Use in hard to get places with obstacles. Dimensions
of each: 1/4-28 UNF x .222" length threads x 7/8" overall height x 5/16"
hex.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Cub Cadet part # 737-3001. $1.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Cub Cadet part # 737-3001. Replaces discontinued 65º fitting, Cub
Cadet part # IH-273360. $12.43 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
90º Angled Fitting. Use in hard to get places with obstacles. Dimensions:
1/4-28 UNF x .207" length threads x 3/4" overall height x 5/16" hex.
.75¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph
or Website]
|
How to Fix a Loose-Fitting Drag Link Arm -
To fix a
loose-fitting drag link arm on the narrow frame Cub Cadet garden tractor
models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 122, 123, 124, 125,
126 or 147, the hub must be "clamped" to the horizontal spindle. To do this...
-
Remove the drag link arm from the spindle.
-
Use a hacksaw to cut a couple of slots in the hub 90° in relation to
the roll-pin holes. Cut the slots about 90% down into the hub.
-
Place the arm on the spindle and drill through all three (roll-pin) holes
with a 3/8" drill bit.
-
Acquire a hardened (grade 8) 3/8" bolt,
split lock washer and hardened (grade 8) nut. Make sure the bolt has an
unthreaded (shouldered) portion the same width as the diameter of the hub.
-
Install the bolt in the hub and spindle, then torque the nut to 35 ft. lbs.
so the hub is squeezed onto the spindle. NOTE: clamping the hub may weaken
the factory spot weld. Therefore, the hub may need to be re-welded to the
arm.
How to Lengthen the Drag Link (link that goes between pitman arm to steering
arm on spindle) When the Front Axle is Repositioned Forward:
-
Measure
the distance the front axle was moved forward. Make a note of the measurement.
-
Center the steering wheel with the pitman arm facing straight down.
-
With the tires facing forward, measure the center to center distance between
the holes in the pitman arm and drag link arm. Make a note of this measurement.
-
Cut the OEM drag link in half as shown in the drawing to the right ->.
-
Acquire some 1/2" i.d. x 5/8" o.d. steel tubing of the distance the front
axle was moved forward, plus 6" lengthen than the distance. This is
important!
-
Slide 3" of each cut end of the drag link rod inside the tubing. For strength
and minimize flexibility, make sure there's at least 3" of the rod inside
the tubing on each end. If the rod won't fit, it may need to be ground down
and/or pressed in.
-
Adjust the overall length of the lengthened drag link by sliding the rods
back and forth in the tubing until the drag link has the added difference
of how far the axle have been moved forward.
-
Weld the tubing to the rods. But first, double check the front tires for
facing forward and centering of the drag link arm (steering wheel)!
-
Grind the weld smooth, paint and that's it!
Front Axle Assembly for IH Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72,
73, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127 and
147
Front Axle Assembly for IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractor models 86, 108,
109, 128, 129, 149, 169, 482, 582, 582 Special, 682, 782, 800, 1000, 1100,
1200, 1250, 1450 and 1650
Front Axle Assembly for MTD-built Cub Cadet garden tractor models 482,
580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 882, 1050, 1204, 1210, 1211,
1282 and 1512.
Front Axle for Cub Cadet garden tractor models 982, 984, 986, 1572, 1772,
1782, 1872, 1882, 1912, 1914, 2072, 2082, 2084, 2086, 2165, 2182 and
2284
Front Axle Assembly for Cub Cadet garden tractor models 1340, 1535, 1541,
1860 and 1862
Front Axle Assembly for Cub Cadet garden tractor models 1440, 1861, 1863
and 1864
How to Reinforce the Spindle Shafts (Steering Knuckles) on Cub Cadet
Garden Tractor Models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 122,
123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 147, 982, 984, 986, 1340, 1440, 1535, 1541, 1572,
1772, 1782, 1861, 1863, 1864, 1872, 1882, 1912, 1914, 2072, 2082, 2084, 2086,
2165, 2182, 2284, 1860 and 1862.
If the front tires on the narrow
frame Cub Cadet garden tractor models listed above look "dilapidated" (the
tops of the tires tilt inward), this means the spindle shafts are bent from
doing too many ground-pounding wheelies and weren't reinforced. If the spindle
shafts are bent, to prevent them from getting bent again...
-
Heat the spindle shafts with an
oxy-acetylene torch in a hydraulic press to reposition
them so the tires will set perpendicular with the ground. Or re-angle the
spindle shafts so the tops of the tires will tilt slightly outward for that
"tough" look.
-
Install the spindles on the axle, then the tires, and stand away from the
front of the tractor to visually check that the tires are positioned
perpendicular with the ground. Adjust if necessary.
-
Remove spindles if necessary (this is much easier to do on a
platform work table)
and weld a 1/4" x 3/4" x 1-3/4" piece of mild steel (brace) in the bend section.
To fix worn holes for the spindles in the axle itself on a narrow frame Cub
Cadet garden tractor, the holes will need to be bored or reamed out and a
couple of thin-wall bronze bushings pressed-in for the top and bottom ends
of the hole. And remember - grease fittings provide
preventive maintenance when they're used regularly. Because
grease cost less than any major repair of equipment.
How to Reposition the Front End 2-3/8" Lower on Cub Cadet Garden Tractor
Models 86, 108, 109, 128, 129, 149, 169, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782,
800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512,
1535 and 1650 -
-
Acquire a couple of grade 5
bolts, 3/4" diameter x 5" length.
-
Measure from under the bolt head out 3-1/4", and cut off the bolt, creating
a couple of stub shafts that's 3-1/4" length when measured from under the
head. (Best to use a small horizontal bandsaw. Cut the threaded end off,
but leave the head of the bolt intact.)
-
Chuck each stub shaft in the jaws of a metal lathe and machine the bolt head
so it'll be round. Shorten the height of the head to about 3/8" so it will
not make contact with the axle when installed.
-
Turn the stub shaft around (end for end) in the chuck and bore a hole in
the end of each shaft for a 3/8-16 UNC (coarse thread) wheel retaining bolt
and flat washer.
-
Remove the steering knuckles from the axle. (This is much easier to do on
a platform work table.)
-
Cut off the original spindle shafts flush with the steering knuckle.
-
Drill a 3/4" hole (for the new spindle/stub shafts) 2-3/8" from the center
of the original spindle shaft.
-
Install the stub shafts in the 3/4" holes and securely weld the rounded/shortened
bolt heads to the backside of each steering knuckle. For the tires
to set perpendicular with the ground, before welding, make sure the shafts
are positioned perpendicular (90°) to the flat on the knuckles!
-
Install the steering knuckles on the axle, then the tires, and stand back
from the front of the tractor to visually check that the tires are positioned
perpendicular with the ground. Adjust if necessary.
A Pivoting Axle Vs. a Solid-Mounted Axle for Competition Pulling?
I've seen modified garden tractors with a swivel front axle and I've seen
some modifieds with a solid-mounted axle. And I noticed that one doesn't
pull any better than the other. So it seems it's just the pullers' preference
if he or she wants a swivel or solid front axle. And about the only way to
fix the looseness of the center pivoting pin hole is to have the axle bored
for installation of thin wall bronze bushings, like the ones used for king
pins in truck front axles. And remember - grease fittings provide
preventive maintenance when they're used regularly. Because
grease cost less than any major repair of equipment.
How to Repair Worn Pivot Pin Holes for the Front Axle -
Sometimes the pivoting pin in the center of the front axle will rust in
place and then the pin will pivot in the holes in the support braces. When
this happens, overtime the holes will become oblong and the axle will become
unstable, causing sloppy steering. Well, to repair a tractor with worn pivot
holes like the ones in the photo below
Ê...
-
Drill or ream the holes in the braces to exactly 1.000".
-
Fabricate a steel reducer sleeve bushing (spacer) that measures 3/4" i.d.
x 1.003" o.d. for a press-fit.
-
Press each bushing in the holes of the braces. Make sure the bushings
are aligned properly so the pin will rotate freely to prevent binding.
-
Tack weld the edge of each bushing on the outside of the braces.
-
The center line of the OEM hole in the bracket is 1-1/8" from the frame.
But this will be altered due to the offset of the bushing.
-
And remember - grease fittings provide
preventive maintenance when they're used regularly. Because
grease cost less than any major repair of equipment.
If the center hole in an axle is worn, this can be repaired by first boring
the hole for a press-fit steel sleeve and then bore the sleeve so a new center
pin (or grade 8 or stainless steel bolt) will fit snug in it. Or, you can
also bore the hole in the axle and support bracket with a 20 millimeter diameter
(equal to .7874") drill bit or reamer and install a hardened 20 mm bolt.
It'll be a lot less work to do just do this.
Available Soon - Detailed Illustrated Plans on How
to Construct a Professional Pull-Back Garden Tractor Pulling Sled and a
Self-Propelled Garden Tractor/Small Wheel Mini Rod Pulling Sled (Weight Transfer
Machines) - (Updated 7/16/24) [Top of Page]
FYI - I'm getting closer to
completing my sled plans. But being I have lots of work to do in my shop,
I work on designing my sled plans in my spare time. As soon as my plans with
an inventory list of parts to use and with illustrations are perfected, I'll
post the announcement in my websites. And as for prices of the pull-back
sled and self-propelled sled plans, I'm not sure yet. Make me an offer and
I'll consider it. And remember - Perfection takes time. If it's worth having,
it's worth waiting for. It'll be money well spent. Contact
information below.
Quality-Built and Nice-Appearing Garden Tractor &
Mini Rod Self-Propelled Tractor Pulling Sleds (Weight Transfer Machines)
For Sale - (Updated 8/17/24) [Top of Page]

Sleds will be built as orders are placed. A minimum 50% deposit
is required for all sled purchases. Buyer/purchaser can test sled with their
pulling tractors or vehicles on our 200 ft. dirt track, and then can tow
it on the road (like a trailer) or haul it on a large, sturdy trailer. Sleds
are designed with style and made beautiful to admire, and painted metallic
or color of your choice. Also, sleds are designed to start easy, pull smoothly
and sure to stop with grouser bar. They will also have a safety release lever
up front so when the weight box tops out and trips it, it will automatically
disengage the clutch to prevent major damage to the drive mechanism for the
weight box. And it will have another safety release lever at the rear in
case the clutch (for the weight box) is engaged when backing up the sled.
The self-propelled sleds will have a variable speed mechanical drive system
with hydraulics to lower the two front steering wheels/tires, and the bigger
sled will use hydraulics to bring the weight box back to its starting position.
By the way - the self-propelled garden tractor pulling sled that I built
in 1995 (and sold in 2021) is such an excellent design, I realized later
that I made something very special when other people copied it. It's still
in use today; click or tap photo of it to the right for a larger view.
-
Small size, pull-back
(non-motorized) sled with open cabin and cooling fan, comfortable swivel
seat and controls within easy reach for operator. For use with 1,050 lb.
garden pulling tractors and up to 1,500 lb. small wheel (26-12.00x12 tires)
mini rod pulling tractors. Length of sled: 12 ft. Total weight of sled fully
loaded with weights: approximately 4,000 lb. $6,000.00 each.
-
Small size, self-propelled (motorized) sled with open cabin and cooling fan,
windshield, comfortable swivel seat for operator comfort and controls within
easy reach for operator. Twin cylinder air-cooled small engine and transmission
will be positioned forward in sled with weight box drive transmission and
clutch system positioned rearward of sled. For use with 1,050 lb. garden
pulling tractors and up to 1,500 lb. small wheel (26-12.00x12 tires) mini
rod pulling tractors. Length of sled: 16 ft. Total weight of sled fully loaded
with weights: approximately 7,000 lb. $25,000.00 each.
-
Medium size, self-propelled (motorized) sled with enclosed air-conditioned
cabin, comfortable swivel seat for operator comfort and controls within easy
reach for operator. Automotive engine (Chevy V8 with glasspack mufflers)
and transmissions will be positioned forward in sled with weight box drive
transmission and clutch system positioned rearward of sled. For use with
mini trucks, big wheel mini rods and antique/classic tractors. Length of
sled: 25 ft. Total weight of sled fully loaded with weights: approximately
18,000 lb. $250,000.00 each.
-
Prices are subject to change without notice. If interested,
please contact me below. And remember - Perfection takes time. If it's
worth having, it's worth waiting for. It'll be money well spent.

To place an order, send your item(s) for repairing, and/or
for customer service assistance, and FREE honest and accurate technical
support, please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises, 12091
N Route B, Hallsville, MO (Missouri) 65255-9604 USA. Please call in your
order or send an email with a list parts you need and your contact information.
Phone: 1-573-881-7229 (cell;
call, text or leave voicemail) or use
Whatsapp. Please call
Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone, except holidays. If no answer,
please try again later.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com.
Payment Options. A-1 Miller's shop is open
to the public Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone, with an appointment
on weekends, except holidays. If you're the kind of person who don't trust
delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile
merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's new shop (click
image to the right) to personally purchase parts, or drop off and/or pick
up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine and/or parts, etc., for repairing
and/or rebuilding. Or visit the address of our (old) shop mentioned above
to drop off your engine, transmission, transaxle, garden tractor, small motorized
vehicle, etc. We also custom build pulling tractors and other small vehicles.
Please contact me before coming so I'll be at my shop waiting for your arrival.
When you visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with the owner for
the best customer service. "The road to a [trusted] friend's house (or
shop) is never long." Don't sacrifice quality workmanship for distance.
Photos
of our new building/shop are posted here!
12091 N Route B, Hallsville, MO - Google Maps.
[Return To Previous Paragraph, Section
or Website]
Payment Options, and We Ship to Canada and
Worldwide 
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent
by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged
item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service
Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal
Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S.
territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground
or equivalent services. We try to keep our shipping cost to customers within
reason. Therefore, we don't ship our products in a fancy-looking package
with our company name and/or logo on it because most customers will just
toss it in the trash after they remove the contents. And being there is no
USPS tracking number outside the US, all I can do is make sure I write your
address correctly on the customs form and on your package.
My websites are not set up to process orders and accept payments. Therefore,
to place an order with me, please call either number above or send an email
with a list of parts you need, with your name, complete and correct postal
mailing address and phone number. For payment options, I accept cash (in
person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard,
VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total amount for
the credit/debit card processor's surcharge). If paying with a credit/debit
card, please call me at either number above. Or to make a payment to me through
PayPal, please click this link:
https://www.paypal.com. Or use
Cash App (username: pullingtractor)
or Venmo (username: Pullingtractor) to make a payment to me. And be sure
to mention a description of what the payment is for with your full name,
postal address, phone number and email address. I also accept payments through
Western
Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram
Money Transfers. If sending a money order or cashier's check, please
include a note in the envelope with your name, complete mailing address,
phone number, email address and a description of what the payment is for.
I'll make a note of your order when I have all your information, and I may
have to order some of the parts on your list, which should take a few days
to come in, but I will send everything to you as soon as I have the parts
in stock after I receive your payment.

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