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Enthusiasts Since 1996. Where Science and Common Sense Come Together for
Safety and Improved Engine/Tractor Performance |
A-1
Miller's Performance Enterprises - Parts & Services Online
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Available Soon - Detailed
Illustrated Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back and Self-Propelled
Garden Tractor/Small Wheel Mini Rod Pulling Sleds (Weight Transfer Machines)
| Quality-Built and Nice-Appearing Garden Tractor & Mini Rod Self-Propelled
Tractor Pulling Sleds (Weight Transfer Machines) For Sale
When building a garden tractor for pulling, it's best to remove and disassemble
everything. (This is much easier to do on a
platform work table.)
Clean and inspect all the parts for wear, especially the steering parts.
This is one important thing many people overlook. Steering is very important,
especially in pulling, and should never be overlooked or neglected. Loose
or worn steering parts can be dangerous. A puller may just tighten the steering
box adjustments, inspect the tie rod ends and that's it. But there's more
to it than just making proper adjustments...
How to Remove the Steering Wheel from a Cub Cadet or Virtually Any Garden
Tractor with a ROSS Steering Assembly - There are several ways to remove
the steering wheel -


DO NOT STRIKE THE SPLINED END OF THE STEERING
SHAFT WITH A BIG HAMMER IN AN ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THE STEERING
WHEEL! Doing this could cause the internal threads in
the lower part of the cast aluminum steering box housing to split and crack
the case or break off entirely. Or if the housing is cracked, the bottom
of the steering box could break off entirely later, which would be dangerous
because the tractor could go out of control, especially when pulling on the
track.
To prevent damage to the threads on the steering shaft, install an ordinary
length 5/8-18 UNF nut on the shaft threaded down until flush with the end
of the threads, and while pulling upward on the steering wheel with your
hands (assistance/help may be needed), give the nut a short blast with an
air chisel. Do not use the short OEM steering wheel retaining
jam nut because threads on the shaft may become
damaged. AND DO NOT USE A BIG HAMMER!
If the end of the steering shaft was hammered on without the nut installed
in an effort to remove the steering wheel, which caused the threads to become
flared-out or "mushroomed", well, there two ways to fix this... (A-1 Miller's
provides this repair service, too.)
The easy way to fix this is...
-
Use a
hacksaw or
reciprocating saw (also known as a
saw-saw) to cut the damaged threads off the steering shaft
next to the splines.
-
Use a 1/2-20 UNF (plug) hand tap to cut new threads in the [hollow] shaft.
-
Install a 1/2-20 UNF x 1-1/2" length bolt with a flat washer and lock washer
to secure the steering wheel to the shaft.
The more complicated way to fix this and retain the OEM look of the stud
with the retaining nut is...
-
Remove the steering shaft from
the steering box assembly.
-
Cut the damaged threads off the shaft next to the splines.
-
Cut the head off of a 5/8-18 UNF fine thread x 1-1/2" long grade 5 bolt.
-
With the original threaded end of the bolt firmly chucked in a metal lathe
1/2", machine down 1" length of the threads until the newly created shank
is .003" larger in diameter than the hole in the steering shaft. This will
make for a press-fit. Bevel or chamfer the end of the shank for easier insertion
in the steering shaft.
-
Use a
hydraulic press to install the shank into the shaft until
the threads of the bolt bottoms out with the splines.
DO NOT USE A BIG HAMMER TO INSTALL THE BOLT IN
THE SHAFT!
-
Use a drill press or milling machine to
drill a 3/16" hole
through the shaft and shank below or past the splines and install a 3/16"
x 3/4" spiral pin to permanently secure the machined bolt to the steering
shaft.
-
If necessary, grind the end(s) of the spiral pin flush with the shaft so
it will not interfere with the upper bearing.
-
If doing the above didn't work, the splined hub in the steering wheel will
need to be heated, or if necessary, the hub will need to be cut in two with
an
oxy-acetylene torch to remove it from the splined shaft.
Be careful not to damage (melt) the splined shaft!
-
As the last resort, if the steering
shaft itself must be literary cut-off with a
hacksaw or
reciprocating saw (also known as a
saw-saw), just under the steering wheel, the splined part
of the shaft can be replaced with the steering shaft (that's in good condition)
out of a 1949 to 1994 GM (General Motors) car or truck. Only a short section
of the splined end of the shaft will need to be used. The GM automotive shaft
next to the splines will need to be machined down fit inside the ROSS [hollow]
steering shaft, then the GM shaft can be pressed inside the ROSS shaft with
an 1/8" gap. Fill in the gap with welding around where the two shafts meet.
The lump of weld will need to be either machined down (in a metal lathe;
for use of a solid metal bushing) or ground down (with a hand grinder for
use of a ball bearing) so the upper bushing or bearing will slide on the
shaft. Installation of the steering wheel and hub adapter are explained below
Ê.
Replace
that worn, cracked (and not to mention unsightly and boring/plain looking)
OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) steering wheel with an attractive,
small diameter (10" or 12") automotive-style/hot rod
custom steering wheel or a
chrome spoke steering wheel! A custom or chrome spoke steering
wheel will, without a doubt, improve the overall appearance of the entire
tractor.
To adapt a custom steering wheel
to the ROSS [splined end] steering shaft, and if the splines and threads
on the shaft are in good condition, the only custom automotive steering wheel
installation adapter kit I found that fits close on the ROSS splined steering
shaft is an aftermarket early GM automotive steering wheel hub adapter kit,
Grant part # 3196, that's made for most General Motors
cars and trucks from 1949 to 1994 without telescopic steering. Leave out
the horn switch plate and install multiple flat washers on the supplied steering
wheel mounting bolts so the steering wheel will install tight against the
hub.
The GM automotive adapter center spline has the correct diameter, but the
number of splines are not a perfect fit, so it will need to be gently tapped
onto the steering shaft. Or the center splined hub from a 1949 to 1994 OEM
GM steering wheel can be used instead. But the three small holes in the hub
will need to be enlarged and tapped for three 1/4" bolts for installation
of the custom steering wheel. But if you don't want to use the GM adapter,
the splined hub from an early model Cub Cadet steering wheel with the spokes
cut off, and a large flat washer (with three tapped 1/4" bolt holes for
installation of the custom steering wheel) welded to the adapter can be used.
Once the steering wheel is removed, position the front tires forward, fasten
the splined adapter on the steering shaft (with the choice of hardware listed
below Ê), then fasten the steering wheel
with the adapter facing in the straight ahead position.
Use the OEM ROSS (Cub Cadet, John Deere, etc.) steering wheel retaining nut
or an aftermarket 5/8-18 UNF nylon insert jam nut with a thin flat washer
to secure the steering wheel and hub to the steering shaft. For easier
installation of the steering wheel retaining nut, use a 5/8-18 UNF
threading die and
die holder wrench to straighten damaged threads on the
shaft, and for much easier removal of the steering wheel (for whatever reason),
apply
anti-seize compound/lubricant in the splines of the steering
wheel hub and on the splines of the steering shaft, then torque the nut to
65 ft. lb.
Install the three 1/4" bolts
from the bottom up, install the steering wheel, then install
stainless steel acorn nuts with a split lock washer to
the bolts (studs) to fasten the steering wheel for a nice looking and
(rust-proof) professional look. Then to hide the (unsightly) large center
retaining nut, install a 15/16"
stainless steel lug nut cover. These are made for semi
tractor-trailers, which are available at most truck stops and on eBay. Or,
to hide the three bolts and retaining nut, install a
chrome-plated universal custom
automotive horn button (center cap). To do this, machine a large flat washer
in a metal lathe so the washer will be slightly larger than the inside diameter
of the horn button. Fasten the washer in the steering wheel to the three
1/4" bolts with a couple of stacked smaller flat washers under the large
washer. Snap the horn button onto the washer and that's it! Snap the horn
button onto the washer and that's it!
-
The steering box assembly for the Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor is
part # IH-400904-R91. (The MTD Ranch King and Wheel Horse steering box assemblies
are very similar.)
-
The steering box assembly for Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 72, 73,
86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 109, 122, 123, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129,
149, 169, 482, 580, 582, 680, 682, 782, 784, 800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100,
1200, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1482, 1512, 1604, 1606, 1650, 1710, 1711
and 1712 is part # 703-1085.
-
The steering box assembly for Cub Cadet garden tractor models 982, 984, 986,
1912 and 1914 is part # 703-0230.
-
The lower steering box assembly for Cub Cadet garden tractor models 1340,
1535 and 1541 is part # 703-1794. (Similar to 618-3050.)
-
The steering box assembly for Cub Cadet garden tractor models 1810 and 1811
(S/N 756,300 - 799,999) is part # 731-3001.
-
The lower steering box assembly for Cub Cadet garden tractor models 1440,
1861 and 1863 is part # 618-3050. (Similar to 703-1794.)
-
All other Cub Cadet garden tractors not listed have hydraulic steering.
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How To Fix Loose or "Sloppy" Steering Parts -
To improve the steering on a Cub Cadet garden tractor, is to remove, disassemble,
clean, inspect, repair as necessary, reassemble, adjust, then lubricate the
steering box unit with automotive grease through the
Zerk grease fitting. By the way - adjustments
are made much easier with the steering box assembly out of the tractor.
Remember - grease fittings provide
preventive maintenance when used regularly. Because grease
cost less than any major repair of equipment.
Don't Be A Slob When Rebuilding A Steering Unit!
Always be professional whenever building or rebuilding anything! Before
reassembling a steering unit, always take the time to provide a neat
and absolutely clean work environment. Make sure that your tools, shop/business
towels, steering parts and hands are clean, too. Don't allow any dust or
dirt to enter the work bench or table, including the steering box and it's
parts. If necessary, place the parts on a large, clean cloth or cardboard
to keep them clean and organized until they're ready to be installed. The
reason everything should be kept as clean as possible is because even the
smallest bit of dirt inside a steering box will "grind away" at the internal
parts, causing unnecessary wear.
How to remove the steering box/column unit from the tractor - (This
is much easier to do on a
platform work table.)
-
Disconnect the battery.
-
Remove the steering wheel. Despite how rusted-on or stuck-in-place it
may be, the OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) steering wheel MUST come
off before the steering box can be removed from the tractor.
-
Remove the mower deck (if equipped).
-
Remove the tie-rod end that's connected to the pitman arm plate (steering
lever).
-
Remove the two 9/16" bolts that fastens the steering box to the cross-member
of the frame.
-
The steering unit then slides out from under the tractor.
How to disassemble the steering unit -
-
Remove the pitman arm plate and shaft.
-
Remove the cotter pin from the end cap.
-
Remove the end cap with a large flat screwdriver or flat ratchet tool by
turning it counterclockwise.
-
Pull or slide the shaft out of the steering box. Use caution not to lose
any of the ball bearings!
-
Clean and inspect everything. Observe the metal bearing retainers for cracks
or breakage. Replace if necessary.
How to reassemble the steering unit -
-
Install the ball bearings in the nylon retainers. Apply lubricating grease
on the balls to hold them in the nylon retainers so they won't fall out upon
installation on the steering shaft.
-
Install the ball bearings on the steering shaft with the metal retainers
to hold them in place.
-
Carefully slide the shaft through the steering box and column until it's
bottomed out. Make sure no balls have fallen out of their retainers.
-
Install the adjustment plug, and tighten it until it's bottomed out. With
Vise-Grips on the splined end of the steering shaft, rotate the shaft in
full rotation to assure smoothness with no looseness or binding.
-
If the shaft feels like it's somewhat difficult to rotate in either direction,
back the adjustment plug off until one of the notches match the hole for
the cotter pin, and rotate the shaft in full rotation again. If it rotates
smoothly with no looseness or binding, install the cotter pin. Back off the
adjustment plug until the notch is against the cotter pin.
-
Pump fresh lubricating grease in the steering box and on/around the steering
worm gear. Fill it up with grease.
-
If it isn't already installed, install the steering cam
follower (steering pin) and locknut in the pitman arm plate.
-
Install the pitman arm plate and shaft, flat
thrust
washer and one adjustment nut.
-
Tighten down the adjustment nut until it's bottomed out and back it off an
1/8 of a turn. Install the other jam/lock nut and tighten it against the
adjustment nut, making sure the adjustment nut doesn't turn.
-
Tighten down the steering cam follower until
it's bottomed out in the steering worm gear groove and back it off about
an 1/8 of a turn.
-
With Vise-Grips on the splined end of the steering shaft, rotate the shaft
in full rotation. If binding occurs or if it feels a little too loose, adjust
the steering cam follower until it feels
satisfactory. But make the adjustment so the steering is a little "stiff",
but not too tight. Because somehow, if it's adjusted too tight, it will stay
too tight, and if it's adjusted "loose", it will loosen up more overtime.
There is no way to prevent this. If the shaft rotates smoothly with no looseness
or binding, tighten the jam/lock nut, making sure the steering cam follower
doesn't turn.
-
Pump a few ounces of fresh automotive chassis lube through the
Zerk grease
fitting to make sure the unit is full. Remember - grease fittings
provide
preventive maintenance when used regularly. Because grease
cost less than any major repair of equipment.
-
That's it! The steering unit is now assembled, lubricated and adjusted!
NOTE: If new internal steering box parts are needed in a rebuild, you can
get them at virtually any Cub Cadet garden tractor dealer. Most John Deere
lawn & garden service centers and parts stores offers the same parts
for the steering box in their models 110, 112, 120, 140, 200, 210, 212, 214,
216, 300, 312, 316 and 317. The steering box in these tractors, which is
made by ROSS, are very similar to the ones used in the Cub Cadet garden tractors,
except for the mounting holes. The internal parts are basically the same,
but new John Deere parts are more expensive than new Cub Cadet garden tractor
parts.
Ever had the steering column tube get pulled out of the steering box
on a Cub Cadet garden tractor? Well, doing the below
Ê will guarantee that it will never get
pulled out again -
-
Remove the steering box/column assembly from the tractor.
-
Disassemble the entire steering box assembly.
-
If the tube fits somewhat loose in the steering box, it can be expanded with
use of an
automotive exhaust pipe expander/spreader tool. (Available
at virtually any auto parts store and on eBay.)
-
Apply
clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant on the tube to prevent
water and dirt from entering the steering box, then install it in the box
until it bottoms out.
-
Drill four 1/8" holes spaced 90° apart through the steering box and
into the tube.
-
Install 1/8" diameter x 3/8" length pop-rivets to permanently secure the
tube to the steering box.
-
If the upper part of the steering box is cracked where the tube goes into,
install a 2"
worm gear hose clamp, or better yet, use a 1-7/8"
automotive exhaust pipe U-bolt clamp to close the crack
up, and secure the tube to the box as described above
È.
-
Clean the metal drilling from the steering box and tube, and reassemble the
unit using lubricating grease and make the necessary adjustments.
NOTE: If the upper part of the steering tube becomes damaged from removing
the steering wheel, it can be straightened back to its original shape with
the automotive exhaust pipe expander/spreader tool and a 2-3 lb. hammer.
The internal steering shaft must be removed, so the tool will work.
How to "Tighten" a Worn Tie Rod End -
-
Remove the tie rod end from the tractor.
-
Thread a grade 8, 3/8" fine thread bolt
into the tie rod and securely clamp the bolt in a bench vise.
-
With the base of the tie rod resting on the jaws of the vise (to prevent
bending the bolt), pound the end of the tie rod end with a medium size hammer
until the ball is snug in the socket.
-
Lubricate the ball with clean motor oil.
-
Reinstall tie rod end on tractor, adjust toe-in.
If a tie rod end is badly worn and performing
the above È doesn't "tighten" it, and
you have doubts that it may fail in the future, then by all means, replace
it with a known good used one or a new one. Actually, for heavy lawn and
garden use or for a pulling tractor, it's best to use aircraft-quality ball-joint
ends (Heim joints) with a flat washer and rubber dust/dirt shields installed.
Front Axle Pivot Pin, Tie Rod Ends, Heim
Joints, Drag Link Steering Joints and Custom-Made Steering Links -
NOTE: Before ordering any of the parts listed
below, it'll be best to completely disassemble your steering assembly and
thoroughly clean all the
parts to determine exactly which replacement part(s) it will need. Because
certain parts wear more than others, while other parts don't wear at
all.
Zinc-Plated Steel Nylon
Insert Steering Wheel Retaining Jam Locknut. Will not loosen under normal
circumstances. Fits all Cub Cadet garden tractors and other makes and models
of garden tractors with 5/8-18 UNF threads on steering shaft. IMPORTANT
- For easier installation of this nut, use a 5/8-18 UNF
threading die and
die holder wrench to straighten damaged threads on shaft,
and for much easier removal of steering wheel, apply
anti-seize compound/lubricant on splines of steering wheel
hub and steering shaft, then torque nut to 65 ft. lb. High quality
aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part # 912-3021. $3.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
Zinc-Plated Steel Acorn/Crown/Dome
Steering Wheel Retaining Nut. When appearance matters. Fits all Cub Cadet
garden tractors and other makes and models of garden tractors with 5/8-18
UNF threads on steering shaft. IMPORTANT - For easier installation of
this nut, use a 5/8-18 UNF
threading die and
die holder wrench to clean/straighten damaged threads on
shaft, and for much easier removal of steering wheel, apply
anti-seize compound/lubricant on splines of steering wheel
hub and steering shaft, then torque nut to 65 ft. lb. High quality
aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part # IH-131506. $10.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
Stainless Steel Flat Washer.
Will not rust or tarnish. Necessary to evenly distribute pressure from either
steering wheel retaining nuts listed above. 5/8" I.D. $1.00 each,
plus shipping & handling. |
Felt Sealing Washer for
Upper Steering Column Tube/Shaft. Prevents wear to upper bushing due to
contamination of dust and dirt. Not required with sealed bearing listed below.
Fits all models of IH- and MTD-built Cub Cadet garden tractors and other
makes and models of garden tractors with a 3/4" steering shaft. Made of
interwoven wool. Dimensions: 3/4" I.D. x 1-1/4" O.D. x 1/4" thick.
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part #'s 723-3001,
723-3040, IH 405304 R1. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Oil-Impregnated Flanged Bronze
Bushing for Upper Steering Column Shaft/Tube. Replace worn OEM thin-wall
nylon bushing for easier steering and less wear to lower bearings in steering
box. Fits Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor and Cub Cadet garden tractor
models 70, 71, 100, 102, 122 and 123, and various other early makes and models
of garden tractors upper steering column with a bushing originally installed
in metal retainer. OEM bushing and retainer can be replaced with flanged
bushing and bearing listed below. Oil impregnated means the hardened metal
is porous to absorb oil and grease so it will last longer. Also, the oil
acts as a cushion between the bushing and shaft, adding resistance to wear.
Dimensions: 3/4" I.D. x 1.003" O.D. x 3/4" height x 1-1/4" O.D. flange.
No longer available from Cub Cadet. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-866105-R1.
$2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
 Nylon Flanged Bushings for Upper Steering Column Shaft/Tube.
Replace worn OEM nylon bushing and retainer for smoother steering and less
wear to lower bearings in steering box. Fits Cub Cadet "Original" garden
tractor and certain Cub Cadet garden tractor models 72, 73, 86, 104, 105,
106, 107, 108, 109, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 582, 680,
782, 800, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1250, 1450 and 1650, and various
other later makes and models of garden tractors without bushing retainer
at top of steering column tube.
-
Flanged Nylon Bushing. High quality aftermarket. Dimensions: 3/4" I.D. x
1-3/8" O.D. x 1" height x 1-1/2" O.D. flange. NOTE: Top of steering column
tube must be swaged (crimped inward to reduce diameter) with large pliers
so bushing will fit snug inside tube. Replaces Cub Cadet 941-3023.
$6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Flanged Nylon Bushing. Dimensions: 3/4" I.D. x 1-13/32" O.D. x 9/16" height
x 1-1/2" O.D. flange. Direct fit; no swaging of steering column tube
required. OEM Cub Cadet 941-3023. $8.30 each, plus shipping &
handling.
Oil-Impregnated Flanged Metal
Graphite Bushing for Upper Steering Column Shaft/Tube. Replace worn OEM nylon
bushing for easier steering and less wear to lower bearings in steering box.
Fits Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor and certain Cub Cadet garden tractor
models 72, 73, 86, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128,
129, 147, 149, 169, 582, 680, 782, 800, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1100, 1200,
1250, 1450 and 1650, and various other later makes and models of garden tractors
without bushing retainer (see above). NOTE: Top of steering column tube
must be swaged (crimped inward to reduce diameter) with large pliers so bushing
will fit snug inside tube. Oil impregnated means the hardened metal
is porous to absorb oil and grease so it will last longer. Also, the oil
acts as a cushion between the bushing and shaft, adding resistance to wear.
Dimensions: 3/4" I.D. (19mm) x 1-3/8" O.D. (35mm) x 9/16" height x 1-1/2"
O.D. flange. Replaces Cub Cadet 941-3023. $3.50 each, plus shipping
& handling.
Flanged Sealed Ball Bearing
for Upper Steering Column Shaft/Tube. Replace worn OEM nylon bushing for
easier steering and less wear to lower bearings in steering box. Fits Cub
Cadet "Original" garden tractor and certain Cub Cadet garden tractor models
72, 73, 86, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147,
149, 169, 582, 680, 782, 800, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1250, 1450
and 1650, and various other later makes and models of garden tractors without
bushing retainer (see above). Dimensions: 3/4" I.D. (19mm) x 1-3/8" O.D.
(35mm) x 9/16" height x 1-1/2" O.D. flange. NOTE: Top of steering column
tube must be swaged (crimped inward to reduce diameter) with large pliers
so bearing will fit snug inside tube. These have hardened, heated-treated
steel races and balls, sealed on both sides and pre-packed with grease for
longer wear. These are NOT the low quality flanged bearing that's
available at most hardware stores. Replaces Cub Cadet 941-3023.
$8.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
Bearing/Race Sets for ROSS and CCC Steering
Boxes. Fits Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor, and Cub Cadet garden
tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109,
122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 482, 580, 582, 680,
682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 882, 982, 984, 986, 1912, 1914, 1000, 1100, 1200,
1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1572, 1604, 1606, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712,
1772, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1872, 2072, including Cub Lo Boy models 154,
184 and 185; Ford LGT; Jacobsen; John Deere models 60, 70, 100, 110, 112,
120, 140, 200, 208, 210, 212, 214, 216, 300, 312, 314, 316, 317 and 400;
Massey Ferguson / Harris MF models 14, 16, 1200, 1450, 1650, 1655 and 1855;
MTD Farm King; Snapper; Wheel Horse; and various other makes and models of
garden tractors with the ROSS or CCC aluminum housing steering box.
NOTE: The rounded or curved cup/race is OEM Cub Cadet (no longer available
new), and the bearing sets that I offer here come with the flat cup/race,
which is aftermarket. These cups/races are interchangeable, so either will
fit and function equally. IMPORTANT: For
preventive maintenance and smoother steering, lubricate
steering box through Zerk grease fitting with
an
automotive grease gun once a year. Dimensions of each
part: 5/16" balls; nylon cages/spacers: 1.500" O.D.; cups/races: 1.550" O.D.
[Top of Page]
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Half Steering Box Bearing/Race Set. Includes: 8 hardened steel balls, 1 nylon
cage/spacer (to retain and separate balls) and 1 hardened steel cup/race.
High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part #'s 941-3021
(balls/nylon cage/spacer) and 903-1029 (cup/race). $15.00 per half
set, plus shipping & handling.
-
Complete Steering Box Bearing/Race Set. Includes: 16 hardened steel balls,
2 nylon cages/spacers (to retain and separate balls) and 2 hardened steel
cups/races. High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part
# IH-71930-C91 and John Deere part # AM31924 ($69.00 as of 1/25/21). $30.00
per full set, plus shipping & handling.
|
Foam Rubber Dust/Grease Seal.
Fits Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor steering box. Replace or install
this part when old one is deteriorated, torn or missing to prevent dust and
dirt from entering inside steering box. May also fit various other early
makes and models of garden tractors. Will not fit later models of Cub Cadet
garden tractors, Ford LGT, Jacobsen, John Deere, Massey Ferguson, MTD Farm
King, Snapper, Wheel Horse or Cub Lo-Boy. If the opening in your steering
box match this part, then it will fit. Part of discontinued OEM Cub Cadet
part # IH-376478-R91. $20.00± each, depending on source and
availability, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
Foam Rubber Dust/Grease Seal.
Fits older ROSS and newer CCC aluminum housing steering boxes in Cub Cadet
garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108,
109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 482, 580, 582,
680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211,
1250, 1282, 1340, 1440, 1450, 1512, 1535, 1541, 1604, 1606, 1641, 1650, 1710,
1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1860, 1861, 1863 and 1864. Also fits
Ford LGT, Jacobsen, John Deere, Massey Ferguson, MTD Farm King, Snapper,
Wheel Horse and various other early makes and models of garden tractors.
Will not fit Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor or Cub Lo-Boy. This part
replaces the seal in metal thrust plates/retainers IH-394936-R91 and 703-1031
(listed below). Replaces John Deere part #'s M41917 and M45568. OEM Cub Cadet
part # 923-3039. $9.75 each, plus shipping & handling.
Metal Thrust Plate / Retainer.
Fits Cub Cadet "Original" Garden Tractor Steering Box. May also fit various
other early makes and models of early garden tractors. Will not fit later
models of Cub Cadet garden tractors, Ford LGT, Jacobsen, John Deere, Massey
Ferguson, MTD Farm King, Snapper, Wheel Horse or Cub Lo-Boy. If the opening
in your steering box match this part, then it will fit. Part of discontinued
OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-376478-R91. Used and in excellent condition.
$20.00± each, depending on source and availability, plus shipping
& handling. (When available.)
Metal Thrust Plate/Retainer. Fits
early ROSS aluminum housing steering box in Cub Cadet garden tractor models
70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124,
125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 482, 580, 582, 680, 682, 782, 782D,
784, 800, 882, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1604,
1606, 1650, 1710, 1711 and 1712. Also fits Ford LGT; Jacobsen; John Deere
models 110, 112, 120, 140, 300 and 316; Massey Ferguson; MTD Farm King; Snapper;
Wheel Horse and various other later makes and models of garden tractors with
the ROSS steering box. Will not fit Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor or
Cub Lo-Boy.
-
Used and in excellent condition. Discontinued OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-394936-R91.
$20.00± each, depending on source and availability, plus shipping
& handling. (When available.)
-
New. NOTE - Inside dimensions of the OEM retainer
in Cub Cadets (NLA) measures 1.144" width x 1-3/4" length. Inside dimensions
of the John Deere retainer measures 1.444" width x 1.825" length. If the
opening in your steering box match these dimensions, then this part will
fit. But if the opening is smaller than 1.444" x 1.825", it will need to
be ground out slightly larger for this part to fit. (Sometimes
one must improvise when certain parts are obsolete.) OEM John Deere part
# M45569. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Metal Thrust Plate Retainer.
Fits newer CCC aluminum housing steering box in Cub Cadet garden tractor
models 1050, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1340, 1440, 1535, 1541, 1641, 1806, 1810,
1811, 1812, 1860, 1861, 1863 and 1864. May fit various other makes and models
of garden tractors with the ROSS steering box. Will not fit Cub Cadet "Original"
garden tractor or Cub Lo-Boy. Discontinued OEM Cub Cadet part # 703-1031.
$10.00± each, depending on source and availability, plus shipping
& handling. (When available.) |
 1/2" Diameter Cam Follower (Adjustable Steering Pin). Replace
worn cam follower for "tighter" and less "sloppy" or "loose" steering, and
for safer operation of tractor. Fits Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor
and Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105,
106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169,
482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 882, 1000, 1100,
1200, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1604, 1606, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1961, 1962,
1963, including many other makes and models of garden tractors with the ROSS
steering box. 1/2-20 UNF threads. Does not include
jam nut. IMPORTANT: For
preventive maintenance and smoother steering, lubricate
steering box through Zerk grease fitting with
an
automotive grease gun once a year.
-
High quality aftermarket/universal fit 1/2" cam follower. Made in USA of
extremely hardened, heat-treated high grade steel for long wear. Not machined
grade 8 bolt material. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part #'s IH-62806-C2
and IH-379992-R1. $22.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
1/2-20
UNF thread jam nuts -
-
High quality aftermarket. Replaces Cub Cadet part # 712-3029.
.50¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Cub Cadet part # 712-3029. $7.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
9/16" Diameter Cam Followers
(Adjustable Steering Pins). Replace worn cam follower for "tighter" and less
"sloppy" or "loose" steering, and for safer operation of tractor. Fits IH-
and MTD-built Cub Cadet garden tractor models 982, 984, 986, 1050, 1204,
1210, 1211, 1340, 1440, 1535, 1541, 1641, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1860, 1861,
1863, 1912, 1914, including many other makes and models of garden tractors
with the ROSS steering box. 9/16-18 UNF threads. Replaces John Deere part
# M45567. Does not include
jam nut.
-
High quality aftermarket/universal fit 9/16" cam follower. Made in USA of
extremely hardened, heat-treated high grade steel for long wear. Not machined
grade 8 bolt material. $24.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
OEM Cub Cadet 9/16" cam follower, part # 911-3149A. $49.35 each, plus
shipping & handling.
-
9/16-18
UNF thread jam nut. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part # 712-3062.
$1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
"Easy
Steer" Upgrade Kits. Provides easier steering with slightly less
effort, especially with a front end loader bucket. Fits all IH- and certain
MTD-built Cub Cadet, John Deere, Massey Ferguson, Ford LGT, Jacobsen, MTD
Farm King, Wheel Horse and various other makes and models of garden tractors
with the ROSS or CCC aluminum housing steering box, except Cub Lo-Boy.
Each kit listed below includes new high quality pre-lubricated sealed thrust
ball bearing and nylon-insert lock nut. Replaces double OEM
jam nuts
and
thrust
washer on 5/8" or 3/4" diameter pitman arm stud. Install bearing with
shielding (wording on bearing) against steering box, and tighten nut to remove
looseness, then back off nut until pitman arm rotates freely without binding.
NOTE: The Easy Steer Upgrade Kit will NOT work on the steering box with
the pivot shaft bolt NOT welded to the steering arm in MTD-built Cub Cadet
garden tractor models 782, 784, 786, 1340, 1440, 1535, 1541, 1810, 1811,
1861, 1863, 1912 and 1914 because the protruding threads are too short.
[Top of Page]
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"Easy Steer" Upgrade Kit for steering boxes with a 5/8" diameter pitman arm
stud. $12.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
-
"Easy Steer" Upgrade Kit for steering boxes with a 3/4" diameter pitman arm
stud. $27.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
|
Adjustment Plug for ROSS
Steering Box. Fits all models of IH built (ROSS) and MTD-built (CCC) Cub
Cadet garden tractors; Cub Lo-Boy models 154, 184 and 185; Ford LGT; Jacobsen;
John Deere models 60, 70, 100, 110, 112, 120, 140, 200, 208, 210, 212, 214,
216, 300, 312, 314, 316, 317 and 400; Massey Ferguson / Harris MF models
14, 16, 1200, 1450, 1650, 1655 and 1855; MTD Farm King; Snapper; Wheel Horse;
and various other makes and models of garden tractors with the ROSS or
CCC aluminum housing steering box. Dimensions: 1.734" outside of threads
diameter. Used and in good condition. Discontinued Cub Cadet part # IH-394288-R1.
$30.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.) |
Front Axle Center Pivot
Pin. Fits all IH Cub Cadet narrow and wide frame garden tractor models 70,
71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125,
126, 127, 128 129, 147, 149, 169, 800, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1250, 1450 and 1650.
Made of hardened steel. Dimensions: 3/4" x 4-3/8" length. IMPORTANT: For
preventive maintenance, lubricate
Zerk grease fitting with an
automotive grease gun once a year.
-
A-1 Miller's fabricated part. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part #
IH-384626-R4. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Replacement Spiral Pin for Pivot Pin Above. Dimensions: 3/16" diameter x
1-1/2" length. .75¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
Center Front Axle Pivot Pin
(Bolt). Fits all Cub Cadet spread frame garden tractor models 482, 580, 582,
582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 982, 984, 986, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1282,
1340, 1440, 1541, 1572, 1604, 1606, 1641, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1772, 1782, 1806,
1810, 1811, 1812, 1860, 1861, 1862, 1863, 1864, 1872, 1882, 1912, 1914, 2072,
2082, 2084, 2086, 2182 and 2284. Hardened steel bolt with hole through threads
for cotter pin. Reuse existing OEM castle nut with a new cotter pin. Dimensions:
3/4-10 UNC x 5-1/4" length. IMPORTANT: For
preventive maintenance, lubricate this part through
Zerk grease fitting with an
automotive grease gun once a year.
-
A-1 Miller's machined part. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part #'s IH-223478-C1
and 710-3019. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Heavy Duty Tie Rod End Steering
Joints with incorporated protective rubber dust seal. Each can be used on
riding mowers, lawn and garden tractors, ordinary garden tractors, go-karts,
King Midget micro cars, small motorized vehicles,
competition garden pulling tractors, small wheel mini-rod pulling tractors,
compact tractors, automotive throttle linkages, automotive transmission shifter
linkages, etc. Allows for up to 20º angle of misalignment without binding.
Before initial installation, apply clean motor oil under rubber dust seal
to help extend life of ball joint.
-
1/4-28 UNF right hand thread hole (shank) x 1/4-28 UNF right hand thread
stud. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
5/16-24 UNF right hand thread hole (shank) x 5/16-24 UNF right hand thread
stud. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
3/8-24 UNF right hand thread hole (shank) x 3/8-24 UNF right hand thread
stud. Most common direct replacement found on most makes and models of
lawn and garden tractors. High quality aftermarket. Replaces Cub Cadet
part #'s 923-3000 and 923-3018. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
3/8-24 UNF right hand thread hole (shank) x 3/8-24 UNF right hand thread
stud. OEM Cub Cadet part # 923-3018. $16.70 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
3/8-24 UNF left hand thread hole (shank) x 3/8-24 UNF right hand thread
stud. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
1/2-20 UNF right hand thread hole (shank) x 1/2-20 UNF right hand thread
stud. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
1/2-20 UNF left hand thread hole (shank) x 1/2-20 UNF right hand thread
stud. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Aircraft Quality
Heim Steering
Joints. Extremely Strong! Upgrade from OEM-type tie rod end joints for
durability and use with heavier front end applications. Each can be used
on riding mowers, lawn and garden tractors, ordinary garden tractors, go-karts,
King Midget micro cars, small motorized vehicles,
competition garden pulling tractors, mini-rod pulling tractors, compact tractors,
automotive throttle linkages, automotive transmission shifter linkages, etc.
Allows for up to 20º angle of misalignment without binding. NOTE:
These do not come with the protective rubber dust/dirt seals/shields. (Listed
below.)
-
1/4" hole in ball x 1/4-28 UNF right hand thread hole (shank). $12.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
5/16" hole in ball x 5/16-24 UNF right hand thread hole (shank).
$12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
5/16" hole in ball x 5/16-24 UNF right hand thread stud (shank).
$12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
5/16" hole in ball x 5/16-24 UNF left hand thread stud (shank).
$12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
3/8" hole in ball x 3/8-24 UNF right hand thread hole (shank). Direct replacement
for most OEM-type tie rod end joints used on various lawn and garden equipment.
$12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
3/8" hole in ball x 3/8-24 UNF left hand thread hole (shank).
$12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
3/8" hole in ball x 3/8-24 UNF right hand thread stud (shank). Replaces Cub
Cadet part #'s 923-3000 and 923-3018. $12.00 each, plus shipping &
handling.
-
3/8" hole in ball x 3/8-24 UNF left hand thread stud (shank).
$12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
1/2" hole in ball x 1/2-20 UNF right hand thread stud (shank). $15.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
5/8" hole in ball x 5/8-18 UNF right hand thread stud (shank). $25.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
-
3/4" hole in ball x 3/4-16 UNF right hand thread stud (shank). $30.00
each, plus shipping & handling.
Protective Rubber Seals/Shields
for Heim joints listed above. These are a cup-shape neoprene rubber seal
bonded to an aircraft quality flat washer. When installed, rubber edge fits
snug against Heim joint body to prevent dust, dirt, debris and moisture from
entering the spherical ball, which will cause it to wear. Apply clean motor
oil on ball before installing seals for easier steering and to extend life
of Heim joint. Seals/shields for 1/4" Heim joint not available.
-
Fits 5/16" size Heim joints. $12.00 per pair (for one Heim joint),
plus shipping & handling.
-
Fits 3/8" size Heim joints. $12.00 per pair (for one Heim joint),
plus shipping & handling.
-
Fits 1/2" size Heim joints. $12.00 per pair (for one Heim joint),
plus shipping & handling.
-
Fits 5/8" size Heim joints. $14.00 per pair (for one Heim joint),
plus shipping & handling.
-
Fits 3/4" size Heim joints. $15.00 per pair (for one Heim joint),
plus shipping & handling.
Steel Jam Nuts. These are about
half the thickness/width of ordinary nuts. Use these to secure tie rod end
joints or Heim joints to tie rod link or drag link to prevent loosening of
linkage and maintain proper toe-end alignment or length of linkage.
-
1/4-28 UNF right hand threads. $1.00 for two nuts, plus shipping
& handling.
-
5/16-24 UNF right hand threads. $1.00 for two nuts, plus shipping
& handling.
-
3/8-24 UNF right hand threads. $1.00 for two nuts, plus shipping
& handling.
-
1/2-20 UNF right hand threads. $1.00 for two nuts, plus shipping
& handling.
-
5/8-18 UNF right hand threads. $2.00 for two nuts, plus shipping
& handling.
-
3/4-16 UNF right hand threads. $2.50 for two nuts, plus shipping
& handling.
|
A-1 Miller's Heavy Duty
Custom-Made Steering Linkage Assemblies (Tie Rod Linkage or
Drag Link) for your Ordinary Garden Tractor, Go-Kart, Small Motorized Vehicle,
Compact Tractor, Mini-Rod, etc. NOTE: When ordering, please specify model
of Cub Cadet garden tractor, or exact length of linkage from center of mounting
studs (tie rods) or center of mounting bolts (Heim joints), and size of tie
rods or ball joints. Or better yet, and if you wish, ship me your original
linkage so I can duplicate it into a heavy duty linkage.
[Top of Page]
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Tie Rod Linkage / Drag Link Assembly w/3/8" Right Hand Thread Tie Rod Ends.
$30.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Tie Rod Linkage / Drag Link Assembly w/1/2" Right Hand Thread Tie Rod Ends.
$50.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
-
Tie Rod Linkage / Drag Link Assembly w/3/8" Right Hand Thread Ball Joint
Ends (Heim Joints) without Rubber Dust/Dirt Seals. $30.00 each, plus
shipping & handling.
-
Tie Rod Linkage / Drag Link Assembly w/3/8" Right Hand Thread Ball Joint
Ends (Heim Joints) with Rubber Dust/Dirt Seals. $54.00 each, plus
shipping & handling.
-
Tie Rod Linkage / Drag Link Assembly w/3/4" Right Hand Thread Ball Joint
Ends (Heim Joints) with Rubber Dust/Dirt Seals and Heavy Wall Steel Tubing.
Replace weak and/or broken OEM tie rod linkage assembly on 4X4 compact
tractors with a heavy duty steering linkage assembly.
$200.00± each, plus shipping & handling.
|
Click here
to contact A-1 Miller's for FREE honest and accurate technical support and/or
for ordering information and payment
options. Please contact
A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service performed that's not
listed or mentioned in this website. [Top of
Page]
A-1 Miller's Professional
Repair Service - Professionally Weld Crack in ROSS (Cub Cadet, John Deere,
etc.) Steering Box to Retain Original Strength and Integrity.
-
With steering box completely disassembled and all internal parts removed
by customer. $35.00 labor and welding, plus return shipping &
handling.
-
With fully assembled steering box. $55.00 labor and welding, plus
return shipping & handling.
|
A-1
Miller's Professional Rebuild/Repair Service for ROSS Steering Box/Column
Assemblies for Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor, IH- and MTD-built
Cub Cadet, Ford LGT, Jacobsen, John Deere, Massey Ferguson, MTD Farm King,
Snapper, Wheel Horse and various other makes and models of garden tractors
with the ROSS or CCC (Cub Cadet Corporation) aluminum housing manual
steering box. Services include: Completely disassemble steering box assembly,
clean and inspect all parts for wear, repair or replace any part that's worn,
reassemble, lubricate, then make necessary adjustments until steering works
smoothly so it'll provide many more years of trouble-free service.
$50.00± labor + extra charge for replacement parts, plus return
shipping & handling. IMPORTANT: For
preventive maintenance and smoother steering, lubricate
steering box through Zerk grease fitting with
an
automotive grease gun once a year.
-
Replace damaged OEM steering column tube with a new shiny and attractive
heavy gauge galvanized steel tubing, which looks nice, especially on the
NQS Half Pint competition garden pulling tractor with an
exposed steering column tube. $35.00 extra.
FOR SALE: Professionally Rebuilt Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor
and Cub Lo-Boy ROSS Steering Box/Column Assembly. NOTE: If we don't have
a rebuilt steering assembly that matches yours in stock, we'll rebuild yours
instead, and charge you for the parts and labor it takes to rebuild it, plus
return shipping & handling. IMPORTANT: For
preventive maintenance and smoother steering, lubricate
steering box through Zerk grease fitting with
an
automotive grease gun once a year.
-
$200.00 each with rebuildable core trade-in, plus shipping & handling.
(When available.)
-
$250.00 each outright, plus shipping & handling. (When
available.)
FOR SALE: Professionally Rebuilt Cub Cadet ROSS Steering Box/Column
Assemblies. NOTE: If we don't have a rebuilt steering assembly that matches
yours in stock, we'll rebuild yours instead, and charge you for the parts
and labor it takes to rebuild it, plus return shipping & handling.
IMPORTANT: For
preventive maintenance and smoother steering, lubricate
steering box through Zerk grease fitting with
an
automotive grease gun once a year.
-
Models with the flat steering wheel is 28"± overall length when measured
from end of threads on steering shaft to bottom of steering box.
-
$250.00 each with rebuildable core trade-in, plus shipping & handling.
(When available.)
-
$300.00 each outright, plus shipping & handling. (When
available.)
-
Models with the dished steering wheel is 25"± overall length when measured
from end of threads on steering shaft to bottom of steering box. NOTE:
If we don't have a rebuilt steering assembly that matches yours in stock,
we'll rebuild yours instead, and charge you for the parts and labor it takes
to rebuild it, plus return shipping & handling.
-
$250.00 each with rebuildable core trade-in, plus shipping & handling.
(When available.)
-
$300.00 each outright, plus shipping & handling. (When
available.)
|
 Teflon Thrust Washers for Steering Knuckles and Front
Axle. Installs where steering knuckles makes contact with underneath
of axle (load-bearing and friction area), and is centered by the steel
bushings/spacers (listed below). Provides easier steering with less effort,
especially with a snow plow or front end loader bucket. Each Teflon thrust
washer listed below fits various makes and models of garden tractors with
3/4", 7/8" or 1" diameter front vertical spindle shafts. These washers are
made of very tough, long wearing and slippery
polytetrafluoroethylene
(PTFE), and not ordinary nylon or plastic. Reduces steering effort about
85% and eliminates metal to metal friction, which can result in hard steering
and wear to axle and steering knuckles (even when knuckles are lubricated
once a year). Apply automotive grease when installing. Go here for more
information:
Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE): Complete Guide.
-
Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105,
106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169,
482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100,
1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512 and 1650, and various other
makes and models of garden tractors with 3/4" Diameter Front Vertical Spindle
Shafts or 3/4" O.D. Spindle Sleeves (with 1/2" bolts). Dimensions: 3/4" I.D.
x 1-1/2" O.D. x 1/16"± thick. $12.00 for two washers, plus shipping
& handling.
-
Fits Cub Cadet "Original" garden tractor, and other makes and models of garden
tractors with 7/8" Diameter Front Vertical Spindle Shafts. Dimensions: 7/8"
I.D. x 1-1/2" O.D. x 1/16"± thick. $19.00 for two washers, plus
shipping & handling.
-
Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 982, 984, 986, 1340, 1440, 1535, 1541,
1572, 1772, 1782, 1860, 1861, 1862. 1863, 1864, 1872, 1882, 1912, 1914, 2072,
2082, 2084, 2086, 2165, 2182 and 2284, and various other makes and models
of garden tractors with 1" Diameter Front Vertical Spindle Shafts. Dimensions:
1" I.D. x 1-1/2" O.D. x 1/16"± thick. $34.00 for two washers,
plus shipping & handling.
|
 Steering Knuckle/Front Axle Spacers (Steel Sleeve Bushings).
Does not include bolts or castle nuts. Replace worn spacers for dilapidated
front tires and for easier steering. Each spacer listed below fits various
front axles in Cub Cadet garden tractor models 86, 108, 109, 128, 129, 149,
169, 482, 580, 582, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100,
1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1450, 1512, 1604, 1606, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712,
1806, 1810, 1811 and 1812. NOTE: The steering knuckles are supposed to
"clamp" against these spacers with the OEM bolts/nuts, and the bushings/spacers
are supposed to rotate/swivel in the axle housing with movement of the steering
knuckles. IMPORTANT: For
preventive maintenance and smoother steering, lubricate
these parts through Zerk grease fitting with
an
automotive grease gun once a year.
-
Fits 3" Tall Axles. Please specify which model Cub Cadet you have.
Dimensions: 3-1/16"" length x 1/2" I.D. x 3/4" O.D. High quality aftermarket.
Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part # IH-544215-R1. $10.00 for two
spacers, plus shipping & handling.
-
Fits 4" Tall Axles. Please specify which model Cub Cadet you have.
Dimensions: 4-1/16" length x 1/2" I.D. x 3/4" O.D. High quality aftermarket.
Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part # 950-3002. $12.00 for two spacers,
plus shipping & handling.
|
    Steering
Knuckle/Front Axle Bronze Bushings. Replace worn bushings for dilapidated
front tires and for easier steering. Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models
982, 984, 986, 1572, 1772, 1782, 1872, 1882, 1912, 1914, 2072, 2082, 2084,
2086, 2182 and 2284. Dimensions: 1" I.D. x 1.125" O.D. x 1" Length. Use these
to replace existing OEM worn bushings or repair worn (oblong) axle spindle
holes when no bushings are originally installed (when the spindles make metal
to metal contact with the cast iron axle). If no bushings were originally
installed in the axle, then spindle holes must be professionally
precision-aligned bored (machined) to accept bushings. Other sizes of bushings
are available. IMPORTANT: If no Zerk grease
fittings are installed in the axle to lubricate the spindle shafts for
easier steering and longevity of the bushings, it's recommended to install
these, too. For
preventive maintenance and smoother steering, lubricate
these parts through these parts through Zerk grease
fitting with an
automotive grease gun once a year. High quality
aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Cub Cadet part #'s 741-3005, 941-3005.
$18.00/set of 4 bushings, plus shipping & handling. |
How to Fix a Loose-Fitting Drag Link Arm -
To fix a
loose-fitting drag link arm on the narrow frame Cub Cadet garden tractor
models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 122, 123, 124, 125,
126 or 147, the hub must be "clamped" to the horizontal spindle. To do this...
-
Remove the drag link arm from the spindle.
-
Use a hacksaw to cut a couple of slots in the hub 90° in relation to
the roll-pin holes. Cut the slots about 90% down into the hub.
-
Place the arm on the spindle and drill through all three (roll-pin) holes
with a 3/8" drill bit.
-
Acquire a hardened (grade 8) 3/8" bolt,
split lock washer and hardened (grade 8) nut. Make sure the bolt has an
unthreaded (shouldered) portion the same width as the diameter of the hub.
-
Install the bolt in the hub and spindle, then torque the nut to 35 ft. lbs.
so the hub is squeezed onto the spindle. NOTE: clamping the hub may weaken
the factory spot weld. Therefore, the hub may need to be re-welded to the
arm.
How to Lengthen the Drag Link (link that goes between pitman arm to steering
arm on spindle) When the Front Axle is Repositioned Forward:
-
Measure
the distance the front axle was moved forward. Make a note of the measurement.
-
Center the steering wheel with the pitman arm facing straight down.
-
With the tires facing forward, measure the center to center distance between
the holes in the pitman arm and drag link arm. Make a note of this measurement.
-
Cut the OEM drag link in half as shown in the drawing to the right ->.
-
Acquire some 1/2" i.d. x 5/8" o.d. steel tubing of the distance the front
axle was moved forward, plus 6" lengthen than the distance. This is
important!
-
Slide 3" of each cut end of the drag link rod inside the tubing. For strength
and minimize flexibility, make sure there's at least 3" of the rod inside
the tubing on each end. If the rod won't fit, it may need to be ground down
and/or pressed in.
-
Adjust the overall length of the lengthened drag link by sliding the rods
back and forth in the tubing until the drag link has the added difference
of how far the axle have been moved forward.
-
Weld the tubing to the rods. But first, double check the front tires for
facing forward and centering of the drag link arm (steering wheel)!
-
Grind the weld smooth, paint and that's it!
Front Axle Assembly for Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Models 70, 71, 72, 73,
100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127 and 147
Front Axle Assembly for Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Models 86, 108, 109,
128, 129, 149, 169, 482, 582, 582 Special, 682, 782, 800, 1000, 1100, 1200,
1250, 1450 and 1650
Front Axle Assembly for Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Models 482, 580, 582,
582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 882, 1050, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1282 and
1512.
Front Axle Assembly for Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Models 982, 984, 986,
1572, 1772, 1782, 1872, 1882, 1912, 1914, 2072, 2082, 2084, 2086, 2165, 2182
and 2284
Front Axle Assembly for Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Models 1340, 1535, 1541,
1860 and 1862
Front Axle Assembly for Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Models 1440, 1861, 1863
and 1864
How to Reinforce the Spindle Shafts (Steering
Knuckles) on Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104,
105, 106, 107, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 147, 982, 984, 986, 1340, 1440,
1535, 1541, 1572, 1772, 1782, 1861, 1863, 1864, 1872, 1882, 1912, 1914, 2072,
2082, 2084, 2086, 2165, 2182, 2284, 1860 and 1862.
If the front tires on the narrow frame Cub Cadet garden tractor models listed
above look "dilapidated" (tires tilt inward), this means the spindle shafts
are bent from doing too many ground-pounding wheelies and weren't reinforced.
If the spindle shafts are bent, they could possibly break off. Therefore,
to prevent them from getting bent again or breaking off...
-

Raise and support the front of the tractor, and remove the
front tires. This is much easier and safer to do on a
platform work table with
a sturdy, overhead beam or gantry crane and a chain hoist.
-
If the spindle shafts are bent, heat them with an
oxy-acetylene torch and at the same time, use a long, heavy
wall pipe or a large pipe wrench (as leverage) to reposition them so
the tires will set perpendicular (90º) with the ground. Or re-angle
the spindle shafts so the top of the tires will tilt slightly outward for
that "tough" look.
-
Reinstall the tires, and stand away from the front of the tractor to visually
check to see if the spindles/tires are positioned correctly. Adjust if necessary.
-
Now weld a piece of 1/4" flat x 3/4" wide x 1-3/4" length mild steel under
the tie rod lever and next to the wheel shaft to securely brace the spindle
shafts.
On a narrow frame Cub Cadet garden tractor, to fix worn spindle shaft holes
in the axle itself, the holes would need to be bored or reamed out and a
couple of thin-wall bronze bushings will need to be pressed-in for the top
and bottom ends of the hole. And remember - grease fittings provide
preventive maintenance when used regularly. Because grease
cost less than any major repair of equipment.
How to Lower the Front End 2-3/8"± on Cub Cadet Garden Tractor
Models 86, 108, 109, 128, 129, 149, 169, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782,
800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512,
1535 and 1650 -
-
Acquire two 3/4" or 1" diameter (depending on model of tractor) x 5" length
mild steel bolts.
-
In a
small, horizontal/vertical band saw, cut off the threaded
end of each bolt 3-1/4" (or width of the bearing hubs in the wheels to be
used) when measured from under the head to end of the shank, creating new
spindle shafts.
-
In the
small, horizontal/vertical band saw or in a metal
lathe, cut or machine off half the height/length of each bolt head. This
so the head of the shafts will not make contact with the axle when installed
in the steering knuckle brackets.
-
In the lathe, bore a hole in the end of each shaft for a 3/8-16 UNC (coarse
thread) x 1" length bolt. This, and with a large, flat washer, is to retain
the wheel on each shaft.
-
Raise and support the front of the tractor, and remove the steering knuckles
from the axle. This is much easier and safer to do on a
platform work table with
a sturdy, overhead beam or gantry crane and a chain hoist.
-
Cut off the original spindle shafts flush with the steering knuckle bracket.
-
Drill a 3/4" or 1" hole (for the new spindle shafts) 2-3/8" in each steering
knuckle bracket from the center of the original spindle shaft.
-
Install the new spindle shafts in the drilled holes and securely weld the
[shortened] bolt heads to the backside of each steering knuckle.
IMPORTANT - Before permanently welding the shafts,
make sure they are positioned perpendicular (90°) to the knuckle bracket
so the tires will set perpendicular with the ground. Or re-angle
the spindle shafts so the top of the tires will tilt slightly outward for
that "tough" look.
-
Install the modified steering knuckles on the axle, then the tires, and stand
back from the front of the tractor to visually check to see if the tires
are positioned perpendicular with the ground. Adjust if necessary.
Pivoting Axle VS Solid-Mounted Axle for Competition Pulling -
I've seen competition garden pulling tractors with the OEM swivel front axle
and I've seen some with a custom-made solid-mounted front axle, which is
welded to the frame. And I noticed that one doesn't help the tractor to pull
or steer down the track any better than the other. So it seems it's just
the pullers' or tractor builder's preference if he or she wants an axle that
swivels or not.
How to Repair Worn Pivot Pin Holes for the Front Axle -
Sometimes,
due to many years of lack of lubrication (yearly general maintenance), the
pivoting pin will rust in the front axle and this will cause the 3/16" spiral
support pin in the pivoting pin and front hole of the mounting bracket to
break, and then the pivoting pin will pivot and wear the holes oblong
in the mounting bracket. Which causes the axle to become wobbly, unstable,
and have "sloppy" steering. The only way to fix the "looseness" of the pivoting
hole is to have the holes bored for installation of two welded-in steel reducer
spacer rings.
The front axle mounting bracket on all Cub Cadet garden tractors is welded
to the frame, so either the welding would need to be ground away, or perhaps
the bracket can be machined with it installed on the frame. Well, to repair
a tractor with worn pivot holes like the ones in the photo to the right...
-
Drill or ream the holes in the bracket to exactly 1.000".
-
Fabricate a steel reducer steel sleeve spacer ring that measures 3/4" i.d.
x 1.003" o.d. for a press-fit.
-
Press each spacer ring in the holes of the bracket. IMPORTANT - Test-fit
the spacers in the holes with the pivot pin to make sure they are aligned
properly and will rotate freely to prevent binding before permanently welding
them in place.
-
Tack weld the edge of each spacer on the outside of the bracket.
-
The center line of the hole in the bracket measures 1-1/8" from the frame.
But this will be altered due to the offset of the machining for the spacer.
-
And remember - grease fittings provide
preventive maintenance when used regularly. Because grease
cost less than any major repair of equipment.

To place an order, send your item(s) for repairing, and/or
for customer service assistance, and FREE honest and accurate technical support,
please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises, 12091 N Route B,
Hallsville, MO (Missouri) 65255-9604 USA. Please call in your order or send
an email with a list parts you need and your contact information.
Phone: 1-573-881-7229 (cell;
call, text or leave voicemail) or use
Whatsapp. Please call
Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone, except holidays. If no answer,
please try again later.
E-mail:
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shop is open to the public Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone,
with an appointment on weekends, except holidays. If you're the kind of person
who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar
and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's new
shop (click image to the right) to personally purchase parts, or drop off
and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, and/or other parts for repairing
and/or rebuilding. Or visit our new shop to drop off your parts. Please contact
us before coming so we'll be at our shop waiting for your arrival. When you
visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with the owner for the best
customer service. "The road to a [trusted] friend's house (or shop) is
never long." Don't sacrifice quality workmanship for distance.
Payment Options below.
Photos
of our new building/shop are posted here!
12091 N Route B, Hallsville, MO - Google Maps.
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Worldwide 
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by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged
item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service
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territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground
or equivalent services. We try to keep our shipping cost to customers within
reason. Therefore, we don't ship our products in a fancy-looking package
with our company name and/or logo on it because most customers will just
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address correctly on the customs form and on your package.
My websites are not set up to process orders and accept payments. Therefore,
to place an order with me, please call either number above or send an email
with a list of parts you need, with your name, complete and correct postal
mailing address and phone number. For payment options, I accept cash (in
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Money Transfers. If sending a money order or cashier's check, please
include a note in the envelope with your name, complete mailing address,
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I'll make a note of your order when I have all your information, and I may
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to come in, but I will send everything to you as soon as I have the parts
in stock after I receive your payment.

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