Instructions to install A-1 Miller's Flywheel-Triggered Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit for Kohler engines K241, K301 and K321 with the 8" flywheel and starter/generator. NOTE: It's kind of hard to explain where to locate and install the PerTronix Ignitor sensor/module. But I'll do my best to explain it it here. I need to make a YouTube video showing this procedure soon.

  1. Position the flywheel when the S mark is aligned or centered with the hole in the flywheel shroud. You may need to highlight the S mark with a Silver Sharpie or a spot of white paint.
  2. It's important that the trigger screw (with the magnet and rubber washer) when installed in the flywheel is centered with the sensor/module to avoid a misfire.
  3. Very carefully drill and tap 6-32 UNC threads in the flywheel where the two lines intersect and install the supplied trigger screw/magnet/rubber washer (weighs approximately 1/10 oz. / 2.8 grams) in this spot. The screw head is magnetized to trigger the spark. This spot allows the screw/magnet/rubber washer to clear the flywheel shroud mounting boss located at the 4:30 position on the bearing plate. Click/tap here to learn how to professionally cut new threads. NOTE: The rubber washer prevents the delicate magnet from possibly breaking when lightly fastened against the uneven rough casting of the flywheel. IMPORTANT: To prevent from possibly loosening, secure screw in flywheel or rotating disc with high strength liquid threadlocker (Red Loctite, Permatex or equivalent). Tighten screw just when the rubber begin to bulge, and allow the Loctite to dry and harden overnight. The hall effect ignition module is activated by the South pole of the magnet, so do not remove the magnet from the screw!
  4. Once the screw (with the magnet and rubber washer) are installed in the flywheel, you can now locate and mark exactly where to install the PerTronix Ignitor sensor/module on the bearing plate.
  5. Make sure that there's .010" - .030" of clearance between the screw head and sensor/module.
  6. Mark on the bearing plate and drill and tap 6-32 UNC threads in the bearing plate to mount the module and spacer. Click/tap here to learn how to professionally cut new threads. Securely fasten the module and aluminum spacers to the bearing plate with the supplied 6-32 UNC screws and split lock washers. IMPORTANT - Gently rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand to check and see that the sensor/module does not make contact with the screw head. Damage to the sensor/module will likely occur if it makes contact with the screw head when the engine is running!
  7. Drill a 5/16" hole through the bearing plate behind the module and route the wires from the module to the ignition coil. Bevel or chamber the drilled hole, use a rubber grommet or apply clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant in the hole and around the wires to hold the wires rigid to prevent the insulation on the wires from rubbing and possibly being shorted.
  8. Remove the ignition points, condenser and pushrod, and block-off the points pushrod hole with the supplied plate. Apply silicone sealant under the cover to prevent an oil leak. Disconnect and do away with the wire to the points and condenser.
  9. Connect the RED wire from the sensor/module to the coil positive [+] terminal (which connects to the ignition switch and battery positive (+) post), and connect the BLACK wire from the sensor/module to the coil negative (–) terminal.
  10. Connect the spark plug to the spark plug wire, and place it on a metal part of the engine. Turn on the ignition switch to supply power to the ignition system. NOTE: When the ignition switch is first turned on (with the engine not running), a single "test" spark may occur at the spark plug, which is normal with this type of system and poses no harm.
  11. Now rotate the flywheel back and forth by hand when the screw passes the sensor/module and observe the spark plug for a strong, audible "snappy" blue spark. FYI - The blue color is made by burning of nitrogen and oxygen in the atmosphere when they are energized, and the snapping sound is breaking of the sound barrier, resulting in a very tiny sonic boom released from the rapid burning and explosion of the nitrogen and oxygen.
  12. The engine is now ready to start. And when it does, it should run very well and produce more power.

IMPORTANT - The sensor/module will burn up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running. To prevent this from possibly happening and/or for security reasons, use an OFF-ON key switch and/or a master disconnect switch with a removable key instead of just a toggle switch to power the ignition system.

Customer can reuse the same [copper core/non-resistor] spark plug, [metal core] spark plug wire and [minimum 3.0 ohm] ignition coil (click here to learn how to check the primary ohms resistance in a coil), if all of these are in good condition. Set the spark plug gap .025" and place the spark plug on a grounded metal part of the engine. Turn the ignition switch ON to supply power to the coil, and rotate the flywheel side to side by hand so the magnet passes the module and observe for a strong, audible "snappy" blue spark at the spark plug's tip. IMPORTANT: Use a new copper core/non-resistor AC Delco, Autolite or Champion spark plug of the correct type gapped at .025" and a metal core spark plug wire for longer coil life. Use of a resistor type spark plug or carbon core spark plug wire will void warranty.

For customer service assistance, and FREE honest and accurate technical support, please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 12091 N. Route B | Hallsville, MO (Missouri) 65255 USA | Phone: 1-573-881-7229 (cell/text). Call any day, Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com.