• Type of Tractor: Mostly clutch-drive Cub Cadet, built by International Harvester or the early clutch-drive MTD models.
• Engine Type: Mostly Kohler, K-series, single cylinder, flathead (valves in block), horizontal shaft, cast iron engine block. Up to 16 (factory-rated) horsepower. The Kohler Command, and other makes and models of horizontal shaft V-twin engines are becoming very popular, too.
• Engine Modifications: Billet cylinder head; billet connecting rod with bearing inserts; forged high performance piston; stroked steel crankshaft; steel camshaft with increased lift and duration; larger valves made of titanium or stainless steel with stiffer valve springs; intake and exhaust ports made larger and unrestricted; modified carburetor extended from engine block for improved fuel atomization; special ignition system; steel flywheel; etc.
• Horsepower and Torque: Example: 37 cubic inch, K341 (16hp) engine having a 3.815" bore and 3.25" stroke, up to 49 horsepower @ 7,500 RPM and 55 ft. lbs. of torque @ 5,500 RPM on racing gasoline. Add 13% more (horsepower) for methanol fuel.
• Drivetrain and Frame Modifications: Special clutch set up with a stiffer pressure spring and hardened driveshaft material; special gearing in transmission; automotive differential case/housing and axles; relocated transaxle and/or extended front axle (resulting in an increased wheel base length); adjustable hitch; etc.
• Rear Pulling Tires are: Professional: Mayhill Giant Puller (formally Pioneer and Dick Cepek), LawnTec, Nichols Pulling Edge, Temco Pit Bull 2, and Vogel's VM. Non-Professional: Carlisle Super Lug (out of production), Firestone Flotation 23, McCreary Traxion and Titan/Carlisle Tru Power. Mostly in the 26-12.00x12 size.

(Added 9/24/21)

Economical/Low-Budget and Durable Class of Competition Garden Pulling Tractor: Maximum 10hp engine; top speed of 4,000 RPM or open throttle. Maximum weight of tractor w/driver can be 950 lb., 1,000 lb., or 1,050 lb. Maximum 10" drawbar/hitch height. Maximum 23x10.50-12 size lug or turf tires. [Cub Cadet] clutch assembly built to heavy duty specifications can be used with no chance of slippage. [IH Cub Cadet] coarse spline axles and lightweight differential carrier can be used with no chance of breakage. This particular class of pulling tractor is safe and ideal for young people or for budget-minded people starting out in the sport of pulling. It makes the sport of competition garden tractor pulling fun and very affordable. It doesn't cost much to build one of these tractors and it puts on a fantastic display of exhaust-roaring power and tire-spinning action on the track. Plus, with the low (10") drawbar/hitch height and smaller (23x10.50-12) tires, a low-cost heavy duty clutch assembly can be used, and there's a very little chance of twisting or breaking a stock [coarse spline] axle and/or [lightweight] differential carrier. With the low hitch height and smaller tires, no extra weight will need to be added toward the front of the tractor. This type of tractor would need to be used with a lightweight, easy-to-start (ATV) pulling sled (weight transfer machine).

---

Unsportsmanshiplike Conduct

To make pulling competition a fun and fair sport for the entire family, be protective of your equipment! While at the pulls, keep an eye on your carburetor, fuel shut-off valve and killswitch plug! When a competitive or winning pulling tractor is left alone, it's been known that certain disgruntled pullers (sore losers ) belonging to various clubs/associations, virtually anywhere and everywhere, will turn the high speed main fuel adjuster one way or the other, close the fuel shut-off valve or pull the killswitch plug and toss it out of sight to keep the engine from running at it's full potential, or from running at all. This is one of the easiest, dishonest and sneaky ways to retard or disable and sabotage a competitor's tractor. All a cheater needs is an opportunity in an attempt to gain an advantage over the other pullers. This is also the fastest way for a pulling organization to gain a bad reputation. (Bad news travels fast.) This type of behavior doesn't happen often, but you need to be prepared if or when it does happen. To be prepared for this unforeseeable event, it'll be a good idea to cover the entire carburetor with a drawstring bag, or better yet, cover the entire tractor with a canvas or heavy blanket, and carry an extra killswitch plug with you. Always try to stay one step ahead of a cheater.

Also, to "cap off" or plug the header pipe to prevent rain water from entering into it and/or to keep a disgruntled puller from sabotaging a competitive pulling tractor by jamming a rock down in the pipe (this have been known to happen), use an adjustable rubber expansion plug, like the one pictured to the right. Most popular ones are: Dorman AutoGrade 02601 (1-1/4"), Dorman AutoGrade 02602 (1-3/8"), or Dorman AutoGrade 02603 (1-1/2"). These require more effort to remove than the popular slip-on vinyl sleeve cover, because cheaters like a "quick and easy" way to sabotage a tractor. Because there's cheaters in every sport, and nobody likes a cheater, not even cheaters themselves!

But then again, if the winning tractor is suspected of cheating on the track (illegal engine, etc.), there's always the protest and/or disqualification rule(s). But only IF the protest rule is enforced! Remember - cheating is devious theft with a sly smirk. Heck, some pulling associations/clubs vote-in and/or change certain rules in a meeting during the off-season, lock them in for several years, but don't even enforce or follow their own rules during the pulling season! They change their rules so often, they might as well just write them in pencil! Another thing I don't understand is when a [prominent] puller of an association/club ask the president of the club if an illegal part can be used in his engine for pulling, and the president says, "yeah, sure!" But the pulling association/club's sanctioning rules, the very same rules that the members (pullers) of the association/club discussed about and voted-on in a meeting, clearly states in black and white that such a part cannot be used.

Then there's the cheater(s) who think the association/club's rules don't apply to them, grown men that act like spoiled brats. Like the pullers who help set up pulls and get lots of money for the person who hauls the sled to and from the pulls and operate the sled. And it's especially bad when the sled hauler and operator, who sometimes happens to be the same person, is the president of the association/club! When the "helpful" cheater bend or breaks the rules, or the sled operator lowers the small wheels on the front of a self-propelled sled to allow the cheater to gain an edge over the other competing tractors, no other puller or the president says anything or complains to the cheating puller because they are afraid the club will lose a bunch of quality pulls the following year, or some scheduled pulls during the pulling season could be canceled by the cheating puller. In other words, they don't want to bite the hand that feeds them. It's hard for honest pullers to compete against a corrupted puller who display arrogant and antagonistic behavior, especially when the people in charge of the association or club show favoritism for that puller. They do their dirty work in private and it's all dirty politics, folks. And it's a corrupted and dishonest way to run a pulling association/club. Wonder how these kind of people can expect to succeed in life with their attitude? Unless they have no life and feel that you must judge others because they secretly live an unfulfilling and pathetic life. If a cheater did whatever it took to cheat, then they can do whatever it takes to play by the rules. If they can't play fair, then they shouldn't play at all.

Association-Owned Pulling Sleds VS Private-Owned Pulling Sleds -

An association-owned pulling sled is when all the pullers/members of a sanctioning pulling association or club owns the sled they use at all of their pulls. It is not owned by just one person. A privately-owned sled is when an individual (one person) or a small group of people (usually family members) owns their own sled.

The problem with an association-owned or member-owned pulling sled is a lot of cheating and favoritism by certain pullers can take place at the pulls. Most spectators and pullers on the sidelines are watching the tractor itself. Hardly any spectator in the audience pays attention to the operation of the sled or position of the weight box while the tractor is dragging it down the track. (As a sled operator and owner, I've seen this happen so many times at virtually every pull.) If or when a disqualification is in question when it comes to a cheating puller, being no one person owns the sled, the only thing the president or board members of the club have in their favor to back them up and what gives them full authority is the honor and loyalty of the other [honest] pullers, and the disqualification is justified. But if the cheating puller has more pulling friends on his side to back him up, then the president doesn't have much authority, the disqualification ruling will unlikely to stand. Absolute power corrupts absolutely. And as far as I know, there are no association's or club's rules regarding proper sled operation or respectful sled operator behavior. The sled operator can cheat for certain pullers and no other puller can do anything about it, except perhaps quit pulling with them.

A private-owned sled on the other hand, and if the sled owner is honest, allows him to have full authority concerning a cheating pullers' non-sportsmanship behavior resulting in a disqualification. The owner of the sled has the sled itself to back him up in an argument. "If you won't accept it (details of the disqualification), I won't let you pull my sled!"

---

Always Wear a Helmet When Pulling!

It's known for a fact that some pullers don't wear a seat belt in their vehicles while traveling to and on their way home from the pulls. (Safety must be the last thing on their mind.) But unlike seat belts, wearing a helmet isn't only for safety, it makes the puller look PROFESSIONAL to the sponsors, promoters and spectators! Tractor pulling is a spectator entertainment sport, or show business. And to put on a good show, you gotta dress for the part!

And if the sanctioning rules require that long leg pants and closed-end shoes be worn when pulling, if a puller wears shorts, and complain about the summer heat, they can just slip on some sweat pants and closed-end shoes, and then go pull. As long as their legs and feet are covered, that's what matters.

And during the hot summer heat, sometimes tempers will flair at a pull site. It's just human nature. This is something track officials and pullers need to take into consideration when confronting a disgruntled puller. When this happens, just tell them to drink some ice water, go cool off, calm down and gather your thoughts. Because they're not being themselves. It'll be wrong to get upset at them. Because when you're an official of an organization, you must delegate authority honestly and responsibly.

---

Using a Competitive Cub Cadet Pulling Tractor - [Top of Page]

If you've always enjoyed "turning a wrench" and wanted to build a mini-rod, pulling truck or farm/modified tractor, but found that these are too costly, start with a competition garden pulling tractor, because of their size, it would not require a lot of money, huge work shop, and large truck and trailer to haul the pulling vehicle to and from the pull sites. If you're looking for a quality garden tractor to build up and do some serious pulling with, then what you need is a beltless, non-hydrostatic drive, clutch-driven, manual shift Cub Cadet that was built by International Harvester and the early ones built by MTD (Modern Tool & Die). The best Cub Cadet garden tractors for competition pulling are clutch driven. These models include:

• The Narrow Frame clutch drive models are: 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 106, 122, 124 and 126.
• The Wide Frame clutch drive models with a solid-mounted engine, solid clutch drive plate and rear steel tubular driveshaft coupler are: 86, 108 and 128.
• The Wide Frame "Quiet Line" clutch drive models with an isolated/rubber-mounted engine, flexible clutch drive plate and rear flexible driveshaft coupler are: 800, 1000 and 1200. NOTE: To lessen the chance of breaking the driveshaft and/or clutch parts when these models are used for competition pulling or heavy yard use, the rubber motor mounts will need to be replaced with machined solid mounts, the 3-pin [flexible] clutch drive plate replaced with a solid drive plate, and the rear flexible/rubber driveshaft coupler(s) replaced with a solid tubular steel coupler.
• There's also the Spread Frame clutch drive models 580, 582, 1050, 1282 (later model), 1535, 1604, 1606 and 1806. (Read below.) These make excellent pulling tractors, too. The wheel base length for the spread frames is about 3" longer than the wide frames.
• For all-out, high RPM (wide open throttle) competition pulling, avoid using the Cub Cadet "Original", and Cub Cadet belt-drive models 482, 580, 582 Special, 1100, 1204, 1604 1606 and 1806 with a right angle gearbox and Peerless transaxle. These don't pull as well in the higher horsepower classes. But they may do well in the Stock governed class(es). And just like the hydrostatic drive models, these too, can be converted into a direct clutch drive system like the models mentioned above. The bolt holes in the frames are the same.

The differences between the IH- and MTD-built Cub Cadet frames:

• On the IH-built Narrow Frame models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127 and 147, the the entire length of the frame rails are the same width and height. This frame was designed only for a single cylinder Kohler engine with a starter/generator and small diameter (8") flywheel. Models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100 and 102 have a short center cover on the frame, while the other models have a tall center cover. The tall center cover is to make clearance for the cooling fan on the driveshaft of hydrostatic drive models 105, 107, 123, 125, 127 and 147. The frame rails on model 147 was widened at the factory to accommodate the large 9-1/2" diameter flywheel and flywheel shroud, but were never installed.
• On the IH-built Wide Frame models 86, 108, 109, 128, 129, 149, 169, 800, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1250, 1450 and 1650, the entire length of the frame rails are much taller and somewhat wider where the engine is located than the narrow frame models. This type of frame was designed for a single cylinder engine only.
  • Models 86, 108, 109, 128, 129, 149 and 169 came with the engine mounted directly to the frame. These models have a Kohler engine with a starter/generator and small diameter (8") flywheel.
  • Models 800, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1250, 1450 and 1650 (AQS, aka "Quiet Line" models) came with an isolated (ISO) engine installed on rubber mounts to reduce operator's discomfort, and engine side shields to reduce the noise. (Hence, "Quiet Line".) The engine in models 800, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1250, 1450 and 1650 have a Kohler engine with a gear starter and large diameter (9-1/2") flywheel, with the exception of the 1100, which came with a 10hp Briggs & Stratton engine. A-1 Miller's solid motor mounts can be installed in these models to stabilize the engine to reduce excessive wear to the clutch parts.
• And on the IH- or MTD-built Spread Frame models 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 882, 982, 984, 986, 1050, 1202, 1204, 1210, 1282, 1340, 1440, 1512, 1535, 1541, 1572, 1604, 1606, 1641, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1772, 1782, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1860, 1861, 1862, 1863, 1864, 1872, 1882, 1912, 1914, 2072, 2082, 2086, 2182 and 2284, the entire length of the frame rails are much taller, and the frame rails where the engine is located are much lower and "spread out" than the wide frame models. This type of frame was designed for a single- or opposed twin-cylinder engine. Although certain models came with a single cylinder engine having a gear starter and large diameter (9-1/2") flywheel, the forward sides of the frame is designed to clear the cylinders of an opposed (flathead) twin-cylinder engine. These tractors are referred to as the "582 models" because the frames were originally designed from the IH-built 582 model tractor.

When building and/or acquiring a pulling tractor, it's best to use what the winners are using - a direct drive with a mechanical clutch disc (no belt- or hydrostatic-drive involved) Cub Cadet and use the biggest engine your club's/association's rules allow in its tractor's class. The best Cub Cadet garden tractors to use for serious competition pulling are models: 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 106, 108, 122, 124, 126, 128, 580, 582, 800, 1000, 1050, 1200, 1282 (clutch drive model), 1512, 1535, 1606 and 1806. Avoid using models with a right angle gearbox and Peerless transaxle. These don't pull as well in the higher horsepower classes. Anyway, there's sanctioning rules with every pulling organization regarding how a tractor should be built or set up. Not all clubs/associations use the same sanctioning rules and specifications. The rules vary from one organization to another. You'll need to contact the person in charge of the organization you plan to pull with and acquire a copy of their up-to-date rules and ask their pullers questions before you build a tractor. And while you're at the pulls, look over the pulling tractors and ask the pullers questions regarding how to build a durable and competitive tractor. And remember - if you're going to build it, might as well build it to win! Because 2nd place is the first loser.

If you don't want to embarrass yourself in front of the spectators, then don't waste your time, money and materials on something less than a true-to-it's-name garden tractor. Stamped steel frame lawn tractors (MTD, Murray, etc.) simply cannot compete against the power and torque or muscle of a true garden tractor. If you want to win or at least do well at the pulls and look good doing it, then get yourself a clutch-drive Cub Cadet, and use the stamped steel frame lawn tractors to mow your lawn with. Or adapt the lawn tractor sheet metal (hood, grill, fenders, steering support column, etc.) onto a Cub Cadet frame.

To be competitive in garden tractor pulling, what you need is a garden tractor that has an automotive-type frame, horizontal engine, a cast iron transaxle and 12" diameter, 5-lug rear wheels. It can be belt drive, too. Look for a good-size Wheel Horse or a Sears Suburban. They're the most popular and least expensive to build up for pulling in a stock class. Fact is, the drive belt on some garden tractors robs the engine of power. The Cub Cadet on the other hand use a direct drive clutch/driveshaft system, which is much like the ones that's used in automobiles. You get more power to the track with a Cub Cadet. belt-drive garden tractors, such as Wheel Horse, Sears Suburban, etc., do very well in the stock classes with a limited horsepower engine, but if you want to move up into a more powerful or highly modified class, the Cub Cadet is the only way to go. They've been proven to be the most competitive garden tractor for pulling that's available. Remember - Tractor pulling is a science, and sometimes making the right changes to a pulling tractor can get confusing. The best thing to do is just follow your gut instinct or conscience (the very first thought that enters your mind) and your tractor should be more competitive. Don't listen to second thoughts. They can cause problems.

And the reason there's different classes for pulling tractors is because some tractors come with a bigger engine and some weigh more than others. A tractor with a big engine will undoubtedly out-pull a tractor with a small engine. And the same goes for a tractor that weighs more than the others. Therefore, most pulling clubs/associations try to match the engine size and the weight of any particular tractor (with the driver) so they'll be competitive within their class.

Ever noticed how there's always more Cub Cadets at the pulls than any other make of garden tractor? That's because the Cub Cadet is capable of transferring more usable horsepower and torque to the rear tires through a unique direct-drive disc clutch system much like the ones used in automobiles, farm tractors, etc. And, there's more high performance parts readily available for the IH Cub Cadet and Kohler engine than any other make of garden tractor or engine.

One of the most popular bodies to adapt onto an IH Cub Cadet frame is from certain models of John Deere garden tractors. The reason for this is many pullers like the John Deere so well, but sometimes they can't out-pull a Cub Cadet. So they create a "generic" John Deere garden tractor. That's when the John Deere body parts are integrated onto a Cub Cadet frame. The Cub Cadet frames that's suitable for the John Deere body parts are: 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 147 (narrow frames; because these models have the tall center section), and any wide or spread frame model. If the JD body parts are installed correctly and the entire tractor is painted the traditional JD green and yellow, the tractor will have the appearance of a genuine John Deere, but the pulling components and power of a Cub Cadet. Many pullers do this. Like the old saying goes: "If you can't beat 'em, join 'em!" And if you've noticed how well certain pulling tractors perform at the pulls, the pullers or engine builders probably followed the advice in my pulling tips and trick websites.

Ever noticed at the pulls, how many genuine Cub Cadets show up, but very few John Deeres (or is it pronounced "John Deere"? hmmm) are there? With a generic John Deere doing well at the pulls, this puts the Deere name out front. Hence, "Nothing runs like a Deere!" But nothing pulls like a Cub Cadet!

One thing about the Cub Cadet is, they're so versatile and adaptable for competition pulling! It's easy to adapt wheelie bars, an adjustable pulling hitch, and many other things to these tractors without having to make any major modifications to the frame.

Of course, the body components of other makes and models of popular garden tractors, such as Wheel Horse, etc., can be integrated onto a Cub Cadet frame as well. It just takes some time and effort to figure out how to adapt the parts so it'll look original.

Most rules require "a garden tractor frame." Therefore, most pullers prefer to use the later model "wide" and "spread" Cub Cadet frames. They're strongest frames for use with a high horsepower engine. They're more rigid and flex less than the older narrow frames. Frame flex absorbs horsepower and torque, which must be transferred to the ground through the rear tires. The "wide" frame were originally manufactured to make room for the small gear starter and large flywheel on the K241-K341 single cylinder Kohler engine. And the "spread" frame were originally manufactured for a twin cylinder engine, but a single cylinder Kohler engine can be easily installed with no adjustments.

The manufacturer didn't exactly design the Cub Cadet (or virtually any garden tractor) to be fitted with a powerful engine, being weighted down, using 26-12.00x12 cut tread tires and pulling several thousand pounds of stubborn weight with. Therefore, it's necessary to "beef up" the engine, drivetrain, transaxle and frame to be truly competitive and to keep parts from breaking. If you're wanting to win, you might as well build it to win!

Personally, I think it's best to convert a Cub Cadet (or any garden tractor) that's dilapidated or near to being a "piece of junk" into a pulling tractor. Because it'll be a shame to convert a nice looking, fully functional and useful mowing/utility tractor into strictly a pulling tractor. Besides, for it to be truly competitive, the entire tractor, including the engine, drivetrain, transaxle and frame, will all need to be completely disassembled, reinforced and rebuilt/built-up from the ground up or from scratch. So why not do it with something that will need to be totally rebuilt anyway? Because if it's not rebuilt/built-up now or before the pull(s), you may be wishing it was. And don't be surprised or disappointed when (not if) changes will need to be made to the tractor so it'll be more competitive. This is part of the learning process, using the latest technology, being competitive and enjoying the sport.

Using a "backyard sled" (weight transfer machine) to test the competitiveness of a pulling tractor will not prove if it will out-pull other competing tractors at the scheduled pulling events. It'll be like a race car on the track by itself with no competition. The only things a test sled will show is how well the engine runs, how well the drive clutch grips, how well the weight of the tractor is "balanced" and how well the driveline and transaxle parts hold up without breaking. By the way - I think that Cub Cadet garden tractors make the best pulling tractor. But know what out-pulls a Cub Cadet? Another Cub Cadet! Of course, other makes and models of garden tractors are competitive, too.

---

How to Make a Hydrostatic Drive Garden Tractor a Competitive Pulling Tractor -

Replace the OEM Cub Cadet Charge Pump Relief Spring (by-pass/pressure relief spring) with one that's twice as stiff or much stiffer than the original so when the tractor (hydrostatic system) is under a severe strain, oil pressure will not by-pass the hydraulic motor and return or circulate back to the hydraulic pump. In other words, doing this will allow much more oil pressure to be applied to the hydraulic motor. On Cub Cadet models with a PORTED pump, the Charge Pump Relief Spring is located under the plug on the LEFT SIDE of the hydrostatic pump housing. And on NON-PORTED pumps, the spring is located under the plug in the CENTER of the hydrostatic pump housing. See pictures below. Also, the use of [heavier velocity] SAE 30 weight hydraulic oil will help increase the pressure. And the tractor will definitely need a healthy or bigger engine, preferably one that's built to the max to increase the torque. By the way - I don't know which spring works the best. You'll just have to shop around for one that works.

Any hydrostatically-driven IH or MTD Cub Cadet or the belt-driven Cub Cadet models 482, 582 Special, 1100, 1204 and 1604 with a Briggs & Stratton (or Kohler) engine can be converted for use with the direct clutch driveshaft and IH cast iron housing transaxle. All that's needed is a dilapidated donor IH Cub Cadet clutch-drive garden tractor to make the change-over, as long as the frames on the donor and recipient tractors match. IE: a narrow frame for a narrow frame, a wide frame for a wide frame and a spread frame for a spread frame. The transaxles for all IH and early MTD Cub Cadets are basically the same, rather if it's an internal or external brake design. The bolt holes in the hydrostatic drive and clutch drive tractor frames are the same, too. The clutch/driveshaft components from the donor tractor must also match the frame of the recipient tractor. For example: to convert a hydrostatically-driven Cub Cadet models 109, 129, 149, 1250, 1450 or 1650 or belt-driven models 482, 582 Special, 1100, 1204 and 1604 into a direct clutch drive, the complete clutch assembly with the throw-out bearing release lever and cross bracket, and transaxle/brake components from either an IH Cub Cadet model 86, 108, 128, 800, 1000 or 1200 must be used. Most all IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractors come from the factory with a cast iron block Kohler K-series engine and IH-built cast iron case/housing transaxle. And almost every late model spread frame Cub Cadet that's made by either IH or MTD are hydrostatically driven, with the exception of models 582, 1050, 1535, 1606 and 1806, which are all clutch driven with a durable MTD-built aluminum case/housing transaxle.

---

Construct a Sturdy Platform Table to Build, Service, Maintain or Repair Small Engine Equipment, Riding Mowers, Lawn & Garden Tractors, Competition Garden Pulling Tractors, Go-Karts, ATV's, etc. - [Top of Page]

I have NEVER repaired any lawn and garden equipment or pulling tractor directly on the floor in my shop. Personally, I have a sturdy platform table in our shop that's 24" tall x 42" wide x 72" in length to repair small engine equipment, garden tillers, riding mowers, lawn & garden tractors, competition garden pulling tractors, go-karts, ATV's, etc. I also built two other 30" x 42" work tables that stands waist-high to repair push- and walk-behind lawn mowers, rebuild small engines, etc. I installed bed-rail angle iron around the perimeter of these tables so lawn mowers won't roll off and other things won't fall off the edge of the table and get damaged or lost.

We've (the Miller family) visited many small engine repair shops and businesses around Missouri looking to purchase hard to find used small engine parts and noticed that VERY FEW of these shops have a platform table to perform repairs of small engine equipment, garden tillers, riding mowers, lawn & garden tractors, competition garden pulling tractors, go-karts, ATV's, etc. The [supposedly professional] mechanic or repairman perform all the repairs directly on the floor of their shop! I think it's no fun crawling around on a dirty floor everyday working on things. A platform table sure beats building, servicing, maintaining or repairing equipment directly on a dirty floor! I also think this don't look good to a respectable place of business when a client/customer walks in and sees the mechanic or repairman laying on the floor, looking up at the client/customer. A professional place of business would use a sturdy platform repair table instead. (This is the main reason automotive car/truck lifts were invented.) I think a platform repair table is a very valuable shop item to have. And as you grow older, your sore legs (arthritic knees) and aching back will appreciate a platform table! Most work can be done a lot quicker, easier and with less effort when working on things standing on your feet beside a platform table. I believe every small engine repair shop or business should have at least one! "Work smarter, not harder."

To construct a sturdy platform table, build it so it will be 2 feet from the floor of minimum 3/16" x 2" x 2" angle steel for the legs and main frame work, and 1/8" x 1" x 1" angle steel for bracing of the legs. And for repairing riding mowers, garden tractors, ATVs, UTVs, etc. with a standard length wheelbase, make the platform size 42" wide x 72" in length of 3/4" CCA-treated plywood to prevent deterioration and rotting if used and/or stored outdoors. But for competition garden pulling tractors with a longer wheelbase and/or mini-rods, etc., make the platform 4ft. wide x 8ft. in length of 3/4" CCA-treated plywood. Install a wheel stop at the front of the table made of sturdy 3" or 4" tall angled steel to prevent the tractor (or whatever), from rolling off the table.

Use two sturdy loading ramps to load and unload the tractor (or whatever) on and off the table. Make the ramps of 6 x 12 x 8ft. long #1 grade straight-grain lumber (no knots). Use CCA-treated lumber to prevent deterioration and rotting if used and stored outdoors. Fasten a strip of expanded wire mesh on each ramp for traction to prevent tire slippage when driving the vehicle on and off the ramps. (Wet wood can be hazardous to drive on.) Fasten on the end of each ramp, a metal ramp end, made of 3/16" x 8" wide x 12" long flat steel slightly bent to match the level of the table for smooth and unobstructed loading and unloading of a riding mower with a mower deck. For safety purposes, drill two [3/8"] holes in each ramp end and the end of the table to secure the ramps to the table with 3/8" bolts or pins to prevent the ramps from "kicking out" when driving up on the ramps. (The same can be done with the tailgate of a truck.) To "stiffen" the ramps and prevent sagging under a heavy load, fasten an 1/8" x 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 7ft. long angle steel under each ramp from excessive bending or possibly breaking when loading and unloading a mini-rod or any heavy [small] vehicle on and off the table. For additional support, place a concrete cinder block or large wooden square block midway of each ramp.

Another high quality all-steel low platform work table that can be used to repair riding mowers, competition garden pulling tractors, etc. is one that's designed for motorcycles is like the one pictured in use in this article. They have a hydraulic lift and a built-in steel loading ramp. With this type of table, a sturdy plywood platform could be mounted on it to make it wider so the tractor will fit better. These are available online and Harbor Freight offers two different motorcycle repair tables, item # 69904 and item # 68892. (Take advantage of Harbor Freight's Money Saving Coupons, Coupon Codes, & Promo Codes, too!)

SAFETY FIRST! Use a sturdy and well-supported overhead beam, or use a well-built gantry crane with swivel caster wheels with a sturdy chain wrapped around the beam, and a quality-made overhead chain hoist to raise the front of a tractor (or whatever) to safely perform repairs underneath, or raise the rear of the tractor to remove the rear tire(s) or remove/repair the transaxle, etc. And to safely and effortlessly remove/lift the [Kohler] engine from the tractor (with the chain hoist), remove one of the 3/8" cylinder head bolts midway/centered of the engine (for better balance) and thread a sturdy 3/8" eye bolt, with the loop welded to the shank, into the head bolt hole.

---

Unlike the IH and early MTD Cub Cadets, and most other makes and models of vintage garden tractors, most so-called garden tractors that's built nowadays won't be in use 30-40 years from now. They're just not built with true quality nowadays. This is a well-known and proven fact. The older Cub Cadets and most other makes and models of vintage garden tractors were built back in the day when most manufacturers took pride in their products. Nowadays, it's all about American businesses making more money with Chinese negotiations. If you ever restore an old Cub Cadet or other make and model of vintage garden tractor, so it's fully operational, you'd probably fall in love with the heavy duty quality of it. Because I think any new garden tractor that's build nowadays cannot match the durability and capabilities of the older Cub Cadets or most other make and model of vintage garden tractors. Besides, International Harvester builds big farm tractors and semi-trucks, and they put all that heavy duty technology into their smaller products. Once you use an older Cub Cadet or other make and model of vintage garden tractor for whatever purpose, you'd be reluctant to use anything else. The quality is unmatched to "stamped steel, recycled junk" that's available nowadays. I think the older Cub Cadets are the "Chevrolet" of garden tractors (you know what I mean ). When you get to know how well built the older Cub Cadet garden tractors are, you're never look at another make and model of older garden tractor the same way. The older Cub Cadet direct disc clutch drive system garden tractors are a one of a kind design. There's no other garden tractor like them. All other makes and models of garden tractors are either belt-driven (or hydrostatically-driven). Even the manual drive John Deere garden tractors are belt drive. They're a copycat of manual drive Wheel Horse, Sears Suburban, Massey Ferguson, etc. Of course, belt-driven (and hydrostatically-driven) garden tractors works great for general yard and garden work, but not so well for competition pulling. Anyway, if you do find an older Cub Cadet (or other make and model of vintage garden tractor), regardless of the condition, just remember that chances are, unlike virtually everything that's made nowadays, it's well-built, making it worth repairing, rebuilding and restoring. It'll be like restoring an older model Chevrolet vehicle (again, you know what I mean ).

Most older garden tractors are worth restoring because they're built better than anything made nowadays. A lot of old garden tractors have been in service for 40-60 years. Everything made nowadays won't be in service for that long. If they were, the manufacturers would lose money. In the old days, manufacturers gave their customers their money's worth. Nowadays, customers give the manufacturers their money's worth! (Planned obsolescence.)

In my area, central Missouri, the used lawn mower business isn't what it used to be. Since three Walmart Super Centers, Lowes and Home Depot came to town and offer store credit, a lot of people no longer purchase a reconditioned lawn mower or have their old one repaired. They just buy a new lawn mower and make low monthly payments on it.

---

Identification of IH Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Serial Numbers-to-Date Manufactured, up to 1981 [Top of Page]

Model of Tractor (Click links for identification of tractor.)	Serial Numbers	Dates Built
International Cub Cadet "Original" This model has a K141 [6¼hp] Kohler engine with a starter/generator, internal dry band axle brake, 3/8" wide drive belt-to-pulley/clutch-disc driveshaft and bolted implements. All Cub Cadet Originals have a 16 tooth second gear. (This is the very first Cub Cadet model that IH manufactured from 1960 to 1963. It has no model number; this is why it's referred to as the "Original" Cub Cadet.)	501 to 65547	1960-8/63
70, 100 These narrow frame models have a K161 (7hp) [70] or K241 (10hp) [100] Kohler engine with a starter/generator; both w/short center section/driveshaft cover; both of these are clutch driven with an internal brake; these tractors with serial # 65458 to 96765 have a 16 tooth 2nd gear; and these tractors with serial # 96766 and above have a 19 tooth second gear.	65458 to 127160	8/63-8/65
71, 102 These narrow frame models have a K161 (7hp) [71] or K241 (10hp) [102] Kohler engine with a starter/generator; 71 w/short center section/driveshaft cover; 102 w/tall center section/driveshaft cover; both of these are clutch driven with an internal brake; 19 tooth 2nd gear. 122 This narrow frame model has a 301 (12hp) Kohler engine with a starter/generator; tall center section/driveshaft cover; clutch drive with internal brake; 19 tooth 2nd gear.	127161 to 218009	8/65-11/67
123 This narrow frame model has a K301 (12hp) Kohler engine with a starter/generator; tall center section/driveshaft cover; hydrostatic drive with an internal brake.	157490 to 218009	6/66-11/67
72 This narrow frame model has a K161 (7hp) Kohler engine with a starter/generator; short center section/driveshaft cover; clutch drive; internal brake; 19 tooth 2nd gear. 104 This narrow frame model has a K241 (10hp) Kohler engine with a starter/generator; tall center section/driveshaft cover; clutch drive; internal brake; 19 tooth 2nd gear. 105 This narrow frame model has a K241 (10hp) Kohler engine with a starter/generator; tall center section/driveshaft cover; hydrostatic drive; internal brake. 124 This narrow frame model has a K301 (12hp) Kohler engine with a starter/generator; tall center section/driveshaft cover; clutch drive; internal brake; 19 tooth 2nd gear. 125 This narrow frame model has a K301 (12hp) Kohler engine with a starter/generator; tall center section/driveshaft cover; hydrostatic drive; internal brake.	218010 to 306085	11/67-08/69
73 This narrow frame model has a K161 (7hp) Kohler engine with a starter/generator; short center section/driveshaft cover; clutch drive; internal brake; 19 tooth 2nd gear. 106 This narrow frame model has a K241 Kohler engine with a starter/generator; tall center section/driveshaft cover; clutch drive; external brakes; 19 tooth 2nd gear. 107 This narrow frame model has a K241 Kohler engine with a starter/generator; tall center section/driveshaft cover; hydrostatic drive; external brakes. 126 This narrow frame model has a K301 Kohler engine with a starter/generator; tall center section/driveshaft cover; clutch drive; external brakes; 19 tooth 2nd gear. 127 This narrow frame model has a K301 Kohler engine with a starter/generator; tall center section/driveshaft cover; hydrostatic drive; external brakes.	307000 to 400000	08/69-08/71
147 This narrow frame model has a K321 (14hp) Kohler engine with a starter/generator; tall center section/driveshaft cover; hydrostatic drive; external brakes. The frame was widened by factory for an engine with the larger 9½" flywheel and shroud, but never installed.	316816 to 400000	11/69-08/71
86, 108, 109, 128, 129, 149, 169 These wide frame models have a K181 (8hp) [86], K241 (10hp) [108, 109], K301 (12hp) [128, 129], K321 (14hp) [149] and K341 (16hp) [169] Kohler engine. These have a starter/generator; a solid mounted engine, mechanical PTO clutch. Models 86, 108 and 128 are clutch driven, external brakes w/17 tooth 2nd gear, the others are hydrostatically driven.	400001 to 529811	09/71-10/74
800 This wide frame tractor is considered a "Quiet Line" model. Has a K181 (8hp) Kohler engine with a gear starter; alternator charging system, clutch drive, ISO-mounted engine; external brakes, electric PTO clutch; 17 tooth 2nd gear.	5300001 to 572876	10/74-1/76
1100 This wide frame tractor was an economy model of the "Quiet Line" era. V-belt drive with a right angle gearbox and Peerless 2300 series transaxle. It was the first model to use a Briggs & Stratton engine with a Peerless 4-speed transaxle instead of the cast iron IH Cub Cadet transaxle.	Serial numbers unknown	'74-'79
1000, 1200, 1250, 1450, 1650 These wide frame tractors are considered "Quiet Line" models. These have a K241 (10hp) [1000], K301 (12hp) [1200, 1250], K321 (14hp) [1450] and K341 (16hp) [1650] Kohler engine. These have ISO-mounted rubber motor mounts to reduce engine vibration throughout the tractor for operator comfort. The engine is enclosed with side panels. It also has a gear starter; alternator charging system, external brakes, electric PTO clutch, an enclosed engine compartment, and it has an oblong shape air cleaner assembly that draws air through the flywheel shroud for less noise. Models 1000 and 1200 are clutch driven w/17 tooth 2nd gear, the others are hydrostatically driven. The "Quiet Line" model tractors with serial # 632502 and later were equipped with 1" diameter front spindles.	5300001 to 664996	10/74-9/79
482 This spread frame tractor was also an economy "Quiet Line" model. It has an ISO-mounted 11hp Briggs & Stratton horizontal shaft engine; belt drive with a Peerless 2300 series transaxle; red in color.	665001 to 688742	9/79-2/81
582 This spread frame "Quiet Line" tractor has a 16hp Briggs & Stratton horizontal shaft twin cylinder engine; clutch drive with an IH transaxle; solid-mounted engine; red in color, external brakes; 17 tooth 2nd gear. 582 Special This spread frame "Quiet Line" tractor was too, an economy model. It has a 16hp Briggs & Stratton horizontal shaft twin cylinder engine; belt drive with a 2300 series Peerless transaxle; solid-mounted engine; red in color. 682, 782 The 682 has a 19.9hp Onan twin cylinder engine, and the 782 has a KT17 (first design) engine; each are hydrostatic drive; spread frame "Quiet Line" ; solid-mounted engine; red in color, internal brakes. 1282 This spread frame "Quiet Line" tractor has a 16hp Briggs & Stratton horizontal shaft twin cylinder engine; clutch drive with an IH transaxle; solid-mounted engine; red in color, external brakes, with serial number 689126.	665001 to 700000	9/79-4/81
1282 This spread frame "Quiet Line" model has a K301 (12hp) Kohler engine; hydrostatic drive; ISO-mounted engine; red in color, internal brake. 982 This spread frame "Quiet Line" model came with either an Onan or Diesel engine; hydrostatic drive; ISO-mounted engine; red in color, external brakes; 7.6" longer wheelbase than previous models.	665001 to 688712	9/79-2/81
The IH Cub Cadet production ended and the line was sold to MTD/Cub Cadet Corporation in June 1981. Go here for more information about Cub Cadet garden tractors: TractorData.com - Cub Cadet lawn tractors by model.

The serial number is located in one of the following locations...

• Stamped on the right side of the transaxle gearbox housing.
• Metal plate located on the top rear or left side rear of the transaxle housing on a small square in the same area.
• Metal plate riveted on the left side of the tractor's frame rail.
• Metal plate riveted behind the operator's seat.
• Right and left side being with operator seated on tractor. And in some cases, it may be covered with paint.
• Or try this web site: International Harvester Cub Cadet Serial Number Locations. With models 86, 108, 109, 128, 129, 149 and 169, use the last six numbers on the metal plate. International Harvester Cub Cadet Serial Numbers.
• The serial number of a tractor doesn't give the exact year it was manufactured. That information is on the label or metal plate that's affixed to the flywheel shroud on the engine, next to the carburetor. But if there's no label or if the shroud has been replaced, then there's no way of knowing exactly what year the tractor is. All you'll know is the year of the shroud itself (or engine).

NOTE: The model number of the tractor represents horsepower of the engine, and if it's clutch or hydrostatic drive. Odd numbers are hydrostatic (fluid) drive, and even numbers are clutch (mechanical) drive. Example: Model 104 has a K241 (10hp) engine with a clutch drive transaxle, model 105 has a K241 (10hp) engine with a hydrostatically driven transaxle, model 122 has a K301 (12hp) engine with a gear drive transaxle, model 123 has a K301 (12hp) engine with a hydrostatically driven transaxle, etc. The only exceptions are models 71 and 73. They have a K161 (7hp) engine, but they're both gear drive. Why that is, I have no idea.

The "wide" frame models can only accept a single cylinder engine. The "spread" frame models can accept either a single cylinder or a twin cylinder engine because the frame rails were made wider and they lay down more to clear the cylinders of a flathead twin opposed cylinder engine.

FYI - As far as a single cylinder Kohler Magnum engine in a Cub Cadet is concerned, only the single cylinder Kohler K-series engines was installed in IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractors at the factory. No IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractor came from the factory with a single cylinder Magnum engine. When Kohler ended production of their K-series engines, and redesigned them into the Magnum engines in 1979, they wouldn't fit in the narrow or wide frame Cub Cadets. So instead of Cub Cadet redesigning the frame of their tractors to accommodate the single cylinder Magnum engines, they made the spread frame models instead and mainly used the twin cylinder flathead engines in them. Only a few remaining new old stock single cylinder K-series engines was installed in certain spread frame models after 1979. When the stock ran out, Cub Cadet ended production of those models. That's why there wasn't too many of the spread frames made.

---

MTD/Cub Cadet Corporation Garden/Super Garden Tractor Serial Numbers to Date Manufactured, from 1982 to 1997.

Model of Tractor All models below have a spread frame, are yellow and white in color and are hydrostatically driven except where specified. The clutch drive models have an MTD aluminum case/housing transaxle. Models w/serial number 719999 and below have internal brakes, and models w/serial number 720000 and up have external caliper brakes. Click links for identification of tractor.	Serial Numbers (Use last six numbers)	Year Made
482 (belt drive w/Peerless transaxle), 580 (belt drive w/Peerless transaxle or disc clutch drive w/Cub Cadet transaxle w/17 tooth 2nd gear), 582 (disc clutch drive w/Cub Cadet transaxle w/17 tooth 2nd gear), 582 Special (belt drive w/Peerless transaxle), 680, 682, 782, 782D (Diesel engine), 784, 982 (Onan engine), 984, 986, 1282	700000 to 712899	1982
482 (belt drive w/Peerless transaxle), 580 (belt drive w/Peerless transaxle or disc clutch drive w/Cub Cadet transaxle w/17 tooth 2nd gear), 582 (disc clutch drive w/Cub Cadet transaxle w/17 tooth 2nd gear), 582 Special (belt drive w/Peerless transaxle), 680, 682, 782, 782D (Diesel engine), 784, 982 (Onan engine), 984, 986, 1282	712900 to 724524	1983
482 (belt drive w/Peerless transaxle), 580 (belt drive w/Peerless transaxle or disc clutch drive w/Cub Cadet transaxle w/17 tooth 2nd gear), 582 (disc clutch drive w/Cub Cadet transaxle w/17 tooth 2nd gear), 582 Special (belt drive w/Peerless transaxle), 680, 682, 782 (KT17 first design engines installed with serial number 726124 and below; KT17 Series II engines installed with serial number 726125 and up), 782D (Diesel engine), 784, 882 (Diesel engine), 982 (Onan engine), 984, 986, 1282	724525 to 737624	1984
1210, 1282, 1512, 1604 (belt drive w/Peerless transaxle), 1604 (disc clutch drive w/Cub Cadet transaxle w/17 tooth 2nd gear), 1606 (disc clutch drive w/Cub Cadet transaxle w/17 tooth 2nd gear), 1710, 1711, 1712, 1912, 1914	737625 to 747224	1985
1210, 1512, 1604 (belt drive w/Peerless transaxle), 1604 (disc clutch drive w/Cub Cadet transaxle w/17 tooth 2nd gear), 1606 (disc clutch drive w/Cub Cadet transaxle w/17 tooth 2nd gear), 1810, 1811, 1812, 1912, 1914	747225 to 756299	1986
1204, 1210, 1211, 1512, 1572, 1806 (disc clutch drive w/Cub Cadet transaxle w/17 tooth 2nd gear), 1810, 1811, 1812, 1872, 2072	756300 to 766351	1987
1204, 1210, 1211, 1572, 1806 (disc clutch drive w/Cub Cadet transaxle w/17 tooth 2nd gear), 1810, 1811, 1812, 1872, 2072	767352 to 779096	1988
1050 (disc clutch drive w/Cub Cadet transaxle w/17 tooth 2nd gear), 1210, 1211, 1772 (Diesel engine), 1806 (disc clutch drive w/Cub Cadet transaxle w/17 tooth 2nd gear), 1810, 1811, 1812, 1872, 2072	779097 to 799999	1989
1340, 1535 (disc clutch drive w/Cub Cadet transaxle w/17 tooth 2nd gear), 1541, 1782, 1860, 1862, 1882, 2082, 2182	800000 to 811671	1990
1340, 1535 (disc clutch drive w/Cub Cadet transaxle w/17 tooth 2nd gear), 1541, 1782, 1860, 1862, 1882, 2082, 2182	811672 to 821059	1991
1440, 1641, 1782, 1861, 1862, 2082, 2182	821101 to 836000	1992
1440, 1641, 1782, 1863, 1864, 2082, 2182	836001 to 851000	1993
1440, 1641, 1782, 1863, 1864, 2084, 2182	851001 to 864500	1994
1440, 1641, 1782, 1863, 1864, 2182, 2284	864501 to 880000	1995
1440, 1641, 1782, 1863, 1864, 2086, 2284	880001 to 889000	1996
1440, 1641, 1863, 1864, 2084, 2086, 2284	889001 to 899000	1997
The above are the last of the "true garden tractors" with the heavy duty, traditional IH-designed frame. See these websites for more information: Cub Cadet Garden Tractor by International Harvester Unofficial Home Page | TractorData.com - Cub Cadet lawn tractors sorted by model. FYI - Most MTD-built spread frame Cub Cadet garden tractors originally came from the factory with a single cylinder flathead engine or the opposed twin cylinder engine. However, certain models came with a Briggs & Stratton Vanguard, Kohler Command, and Kawasaki V-twin engine.

---

Do V-belt Drive System Garden Tractors Make Competitive Pullers? [Top of Page]

A V-belt will rob an engine of power simply because it "rubs" in the pulleys due to friction, and that's how they grip to transmit power. For an example of how they rob engine power: on a belt drive mower/garden tractor, if the transmission is placed in neutral with the engine running at a slow idle, with the pedal engaged so the belt tightens in the pulleys, the engine will slow down. But with the pedal disengaged so the belt is released/loose in the pulleys, you'll notice how the engine will speed up slightly. Repeat this process several times and you'll really notice the difference. This is why V-belts are no longer used on newer automobiles. Auto manufacturers nowadays use a single serpentine belt to drive all the power accessories, because this type of belt robs the engine of very little power, and it helps to improve fuel mileage. Direct/clutch-drive Cub Cadet garden tractors use no belts whatsoever in the drive train. This means no power is wasted.

However, for competition pulling, sometimes a V-belt drive garden tractor will do very well in the stock class(es), but they tend to lag behind when competing with higher horsepower class tractors, especially Cub Cadets. But if you really like your V-belt garden tractor and want to be a competitive puller in the higher horsepower classes, you can adapt the fenders, hood, grill, etc., from your V-belt garden tractor onto a Cub Cadet chassis/frame and drivetrain. Then you'll have the competition of a Cub Cadet with the looks of your original make and model of garden tractor. Many diehard John Deere garden tractor lovers do this, and compete very well against the Cub Cadets.

If a belt-drive garden tractor is used for competition pulling (that's obviously going to be used in a stock class), the things to keep the drive belt from slipping are:

1. Make sure that the belt and pulleys are in good condition and there's no deep worn grooves in the drive pulley.
2. Avoid using an aluminum drive pulley. These are likely to break due to heat friction from the V-belt.
3. Make sure all pulleys are properly aligned so the belt won't run out of alignment. If necessary, use a straight-edge to align them.
4. Install a stiffer spring for the tensioner idler pulley to tighten the belt more than what the factory intended.
5. As the last resort, attach a long lever on the clutch pedal so the operator can pull back on it (with his/her hand) to help tighten the belt even more.

For competitive pulling, certain belt-drive transaxles are not geared "just right" to provide the proper ground speed needed to balance engine power/torque with traction (according to track conditions). One gear may be slightly too fast and another too slow. Unfortunately, there are no aftermarket gears available for most belt-drive transaxles (excluding the Cub Cadet "Original"). So to create an "in-between speed," to increase the ground speed of a belt-drive tractor, a slightly larger diameter pulley will need to be installed on the engine and/or a slightly smaller diameter pulley will need to be installed on the transaxle. To slow the tractor down or decrease the ground speed, do the opposite. A different length belt may need to be used. Actually, in the stock class, it's best to pull with an older garden tractor that have a variable speed drive. The variable speed drive works much like a manually-operated belt-drive torque converter. These tractors have a hand-operated lever that can speed up or slow down the tires when the engine is over- or under-powered according to load or track conditions. Cub Cadet pullers that have a problem competing against these type of tractors call this lever a "cheat stick." FYI - The built Cub Cadet models 482, 582 Special, 1100, 1204 and 1604 have the Peerless 2300 series transaxle. This particular transaxle is very tough when used for general yard and garden work, but one of the axles have been known to break when pulling competitively with 26-12.00x12 lug tires.

Certain models of John Deere and Massey Ferguson garden tractors have a variable speed control called a "variator," which is a factory-installed lever positioned on the right of the steering wheel. Most Cub Cadet pullers call this lever a "cheat stick." When it's pulled back, it slows down the tires to reserve engine power and torque. When used in competitive pulling, this feature allows the tractor to have plenty of ground speed upon takeoff and go down the track with plenty of ground speed, and when the weight of the sled comes up on the tractor, and if the engine begins to bog down or lose power, the operator can pull back on the lever, slowing down the tires, so the engine will have more reserve power to "chug, chug" a little further down the track without running out of horsepower. It works great in the stock class(es), but being it's part of a belt-drive drive system, the tractor may lag behind in a higher horsepower class with a wide open throttle engine.

How to Prevent a Clutch-Type V-Belt from Flying Off the Pulley(s) at High RPM When Disengaged. To prevent this from happening, use long bolts or fabricate and install two heavy belt guides/retainers so the belt will stay on the pulley(s) when fully disengaged (pressure or tension is released). The guides/retainers can be made from long bolts with jam nuts, or from mild steel, L-shape, 3/16" thick x 1" wide x whatever length they need to be. Then with the tension tight on the belt, fasten the bolts/guides/retainers to the engine block (or tractor frame) close as possible to the drive pulley with the long part of the guide spaced 1/8" from the outside edge of the belt. Position one bolt/guide/retainer over the belt where it goes onto the pulley and the other bolt/guide/retainer under the belt where it comes off the pulley. Secure the guides/retainers in place so they won't rotate. I've done this many times with some of my customer's riding mowers and garden tractors drive and driven pulleys, and mower deck pulleys, and if installed correctly, it works great! Bolts/guides/retainers are not needed for a V-belt that stays tight/engaged all the time. Only for ones that loosens/disengages and tightens up/engages. [Top of Page]

---

Available Soon! Click Here for Detailed Illustrated Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back and Self-Propelled Garden Tractor Pulling Sled. FYI - The self-propelled garden tractor pulling sled that I built is such an excellent design, I realized later that I made something very special when other people copied it. - Brian Miller

---

To place an order, send your item(s) for repairing, and/or for customer service assistance, and FREE honest and accurate technical support, please contact: Brian Miller of A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises, 12091 N Route B, Hallsville, MO (Missouri) 65255-9604 USA. Please call in your order or send an email with a list parts you need and your contact information. Phone: 1-573-881-7229 (cell; call, text or leave voicemail) or use Whatsapp. Please call Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone, except holidays. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian on the phone, please be patient and understanding because I stutter.) E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. Payment Options. A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone, with an appointment on weekends, except holidays. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's new shop (click image to the right) to personally purchase parts, or drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine and/or parts, etc., for repairing and/or rebuilding. Or visit the address of our (old) shop mentioned above to drop off your engine, transmission, transaxle, garden tractor, small motorized vehicle, etc. We also custom build pulling tractors and other small vehicles. Please contact me before coming so I'll be at my shop waiting for your arrival. When you visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with the owner for the best customer service. 12091 N Route B, Hallsville, MO - Google Maps "The road to a [trusted] friend's house (or shop) is never long." Don't sacrifice quality workmanship for distance. [Return To Previous Paragraph, Section or Website]

By the way - As business is booming, we relocated our business at 12091 N. Route B, Hallsville, MO 65255 with a new, bigger, better, fully insulated, heated and air-conditioned building/shop (shouse) so we can provide many more professional services and high quality parts, and hire more reliable and knowledgeable help to have our customer's parts orders fulfilled sooner, parts repaired sooner and engine rebuilds performed promptly without a long delay. We will also offer custom welding fabrication jobs and other custom services. And we also provide pick up and delivery service and perform professional repairs for various small engines and lawn & garden equipment! Photos of our new building/shop are posted here! 12091 N Route B, Hallsville, MO - Google Maps

Payment Options, and We Ship to Canada and Worldwide
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S. territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground or equivalent services. We try to keep our shipping cost to customers within reason. Therefore, we don't ship our products in a fancy-looking package with our company name and/or logo on it because most customers will just toss it in the trash after they remove the contents. And being there is no USPS tracking number outside the US, all I can do is make sure I write your address correctly on the customs form and on your package.

My websites are not set up to process orders and accept payments. Therefore, to place an order with me, please call either number above or send an email with a list of parts you need, with your name, complete and correct postal mailing address and phone number. For payment options, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total amount for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge). If paying with a credit/debit card, please call me at either number above. Or to make a payment to me through PayPal, please click this link: https://www.paypal.com. Or use Cash App (username: pullingtractor) or Venmo (username: Pullingtractor) to make a payment to me. And be sure to mention a description of what the payment is for with your full name, postal address, phone number and email address. I also accept payments through Western Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram Money Transfers. If sending a money order or cashier's check, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete mailing address, phone number, email address and a description of what the payment is for. I'll make a note of your order when I have all your information, and I may have to order some of the parts on your list, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send everything to you as soon as I have the parts in stock after I receive your payment.

---

Return To Previous Website | Top of Page

Copyright © 1996-Present. This website created, designed and maintained by Brian Miller