Putting
the Brakes on an IH Cub Cadet Garden Tractor
Putting
the Brakes on an IH Cub Cadet Garden Tractor
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If you want go, you gotta have whoa. There's no question about it. For safety, it's best to repair or replace worn brake parts and adjust them if needed.
Separate the Brake and Clutch Operations and Use a Hand-Operated Brake Instead of a Foot Brake -
Many professional Cub Cadet garden tractor competition pullers prefer to use a hand brake because they run an extremely stiff pressure spring on the driveshaft to prevent clutch slippage. When they depress the clutch/brake pedal to apply the brakes, the stiff spring must fully compress, which makes it very hard to easily apply the brakes. The hand brake makes it effortlessly and much safer to apply the brakes. It requires a lot less muscle (in the arm) to stop the tractor.
When safely rolling the tractor off a trailer, sometimes this requires great effort to depress the clutch/brake pedal to apply the brakes, especially by hand (and arm muscles). What can be done to change this is separate the brake(s) and the clutch operations by disconnecting the brake linkage from the clutch/brake pedal cross shaft, and fabricate a long upright lever (with an adjustable linkage) on the right side of the steering column support pedestal which can be easily and effortlessly pulled back (rearward) by hand to apply the brakes. The clutch/brake pedal will then become just the "clutch pedal," and the lever will be the "brake lever." This would also make it much safer and easier to fully stop or slow the tractor down a steep hill or when unloading the tractor down the ramp(s) of a utility trailer or platform work table. Also, a "parking brake" lock mechanism can be installed on the brake lever-to-tractor frame to securely lock the brakes in position to prevent the tractor from rolling or coasting when the tractor is out of gear and the engine running.
Cub Cadet garden tractors that have the brakes integrated with the clutch/brake pedal, when applying the brakes on a competition pulling tractor that has an extremely stiff clutch pressure spring (on the driveshaft), great effort is required (strong leg muscles) to overcome and compress the clutch spring before the brakes can be fully applied. I don't have any photos of the hand brake (yet), but to make it work, fabricate a 3/4" diameter cross-shaft next to the original clutch/brake cross-shaft, mount it between the tractor frame rails and allow it to rotate slightly. The brake lever is then positioned on the right side of the tractor (if you're right-handed), and it can be made to a comfortable length (height) and it's securely welded to the cross-shaft. Then a bellcrank or short lever is installed or welded to the cross-shaft with an adjustable link (turnbucket) which connects to the brake lever on the transaxle. The adjustable link is used to set the proper position of the lever. Install an extension spring to allow the pressure to be taken off the brakes when the lever is released.
If your IH Cub Cadet model
70,
72,
73,
100,
102,
122,
124,
582 (prior to serial # 719999),
682 (prior to serial # 719999),
782 (prior to serial # 719999),
784 (prior to serial # 719999), and the early
800,
1000 and
1200 models have an internal brake assembly like the one
shown to the right ->, the adjustment is easily made by loosening the
jam nut on the square-head bolt and rotating the bolt clockwise. Make the
adjustment when there's a slight drag on the brake pads and disc when the
clutch/brake pedal is about 3/4 depressed, then tighten the jam nut.
If you can't get the brake to stop the tractor at all by tightening the square-head brake adjustment bolt, and you are sure that the adjustment bolt is pushing against the brake push rod firmly when the pedal is depressed, then the brake pad retainer (plunger) is obviously frozen/rusted in the reduction housing. This is common for tractors that was stored in a high humility environment or sat outside in damp weather for many years.
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO
DRIVE OUT THE PIN WITHOUT FIRST THOROUGHLY HEATING THE LEVER AND/OR YOKES
BECAUSE BEING THE YOKES ARE MADE OF BRITTLE CAST IRON, THIS WILL LIKELY CAUSE
ONE OR BOTH OF THEM TO BREAK OFF, then it/they would need to be welded back
on.
How to Free-Up a Frozen/Rusted-In Brake Pad Retainer (Plunger) -
This happens when a tractor is left outside in damp weather for many years, which causes the brake pad retainer (plunger) to get rusted in the bore. To free the plunger, remove the transaxle from the tractor, and from inside the reduction gear box housing, remove the large reduction gear, then use a large, flat cold chisel and big hammer between the plunger and brake disc to drive the plunger forward. Use Liquid Wrench to dissolve the rust around the retainer. The brake disc may get scored or scratched from use of the chisel, but this is the only way I know how to do this. Once the plunger is removed from the reduction housing, the scratches on the brake disc can be removed and smoothed over with a fine file. Before reinstalling the plunger, clean the rust from the plunger, install a new rubber O-ring and new brake pads if needed, and remove the rust from the plunger bore with a small, automotive wheel cylinder hone tool, then apply clean motor oil, gear oil or lubricating grease on the plunger and inside the bore so the brake will work flawlessly for many years.
To replace this type of brake, first remove the transaxle from the tractor. Then, remove the square head bolt, drive out the rocker shaft and remove the cast brake arm. Try tapping on the piston and use penetrating oil on it to free it. Often, the transaxle will have to be removed from the tractor and the reduction housing removed to drive the brake pad retainer out from inside and clean up the bore and retainer. If you go that far, replace both pads/pucks with new ones, they are cheap. On reassembly, coat the outside of the piston with a thin layer of motor oil.
If the brake pad retainer is rusted and stuck in place, here's how to fix this...
Parts for this job will involve a new "O" ring for the retainer that the cast rod and shaft pushes on, a reduction gear housing gasket or use clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant and 2 new brake pads/pucks. Use only OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) material when replacing the brake pads/pucks. FYI - I'm not an OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) Cub Cadet parts dealer. Cub Cadet won't let A-1 Miller's become a dealer because there's already one in my area. (It's another way how big businesses support other big businesses, or how the rich help the rich get richer.) Besides, competition from different dealers in the same area help keep prices low. I think this is unfair business practice because by allowing only one dealer in a wide-spread area can have them gouge (overcharge) unsuspecting customers on parts and/or repair costs. They probably laugh all the way to the bank after every sale, too.
The internal brake is preferred by most Cub Cadet owners and pullers over the external disc setup, and are normally almost totally trouble-free because the parts stay cleaner than the external brakes.
Only the early Cub Cadets (models
70,
72,
73,
100,
102,
122,
124,
582,
682,
782,
784 (prior to serial # 720000), and certain
800,
1000 and
1200's) were equipped with an internal brake. The Cub Cadet
engineers realized later that people were hauling heavy (fully loaded,
automotive-type) trailers around their property (farms) with these tractors,
and the small internal brake pads couldn't stop the tractor and trailer well,
especially when going down a steep hill. Nor does it have the ability to
"park" well (with a heavy trailer) downward or upward on a steep hillside.
That's why Cub Cadet converted to the external disc/axle brake system, as
described further down in this web page. External disc/axle brakes have more
contact area, permitting the external brakes to hold about 5 times better
than the internal brake.
How to Replace the Internal (Wet) Brake Pads/Pucks in an IH Cub Cadet Garden Tractor Transaxle -
Acquire new brake pads from
A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises or your
local Cub Cadet dealer.
The external/axle disc brakes
on Cub Cadet models
86,
106,
107,
108,
109,
126,
127,
128,
129,
149, 784 w/serial number 720000 and up,
1250,
1450,
1650 and certain
800,
1000 and
1200's are much easier to service than the internal brake
models above. Unlike the internal brake, a piece of .125" thickness 6061
(medium hardness) aluminum will work. Use highly adhesive glue or countersink
some 3/16" aluminum rivets or flat-head brass bolts to fasten the aluminum
in place.
The front brake pads that's made for a 1998-2001 Chevrolet S10 2wd pickup can be used in place of the OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) pads for these type of brakes. This is the flat pad with slotted ends. They're available at virtually any auto parts store. The thickness of a new OEM Cub Cadet brake pad is .100". The automotive pads are thicker.
The automotive brake pads to use are the riveted-on type. Grind the backs off the rivets. The two top rivet holes should line up enough to get two screws through them. Then turn the pads over, and from the back side, use a drill bit to go through the Cub backing plate. Drill through the pad and turn it over. Counter sink the holes to install two more screws.
Also, I have no information on how to mount the S10 brake pads on a Cub Cadet. Somebody gave A-1 Miller's this information and I posted it here. Use the information here to the best of your knowledge.
Also, seasoned oak wood or 6061 aluminum can be used as external brake friction
material for a Cub Cadet. But only if the tractor doesn't go any faster
than factory gearing!
NEVER use wood or aluminum as brake friction
material in a high speed (above 20 mph) vehicle or in an automobile! The
reason being, due to severe friction, wood will burn and aluminum
will melt!
To adjust these type of brakes, there's an adjusting rod going forward from each axle end. You'll need to remove them, clean the dirt and paint from the threads with a threading die, a wire brush or a wire wheel, then reinstall them. Place the brake pedal with the hold down lever in place then adjust them to where each axle has the same amount of braking.
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 Internal (Wet) Brake Pads/Pucks and Neoprene Rubber O-Ring
Seal. Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104,
105, 122, 123, 124, 125, 580, 582, 680, 682, 782, 784, 800, 1000, 1200, 1210,
1250, 1282, 1450, 1604, 1606, 1650, 1710, 1711 and 1712. IMPORTANT: Before
installing any new oil seal, always apply oil or grease inside the seal and
on the shaft to keep the rubber seal lubricated and cool until internal oil
can reach it. With no prior lubrication, the dry rubber will wear away, causing
another oil leak. Do the job right the first time, and it won't have to be
done again.
|
||
 Wheel Stud Kits
for IH-built Cub Cadets with an internal (wet) brake or external
axle/disc brakes, but will work on other makes and models of garden tractors
as well. Along with wheel spacers, these are a must when wheels will not
clear the fenders and/or brake calipers. With lug nuts (below
Ê) installed, these make for easier mounting
of wheels with or without spacers on a garden tractor. Along with lug nuts
(below Ê), these make for easier mounting
of wheels with or without spacers on a garden tractor. Made of 125,000 PSI
hardened 7/16-20 UNF studs and secured from the backside in the wheel flanges
with jam nuts. Each set includes 10 studs and 10 jam nuts. Replaces Cub Cadet
part # 710-3027.
|
||
 Stainless Steel Plain Nuts
and Flat Washers for Mounting of Aluminum Wheels. 7/16-20 UNF thread size.
Will not rust. Along with studs (above
È), these make for easier mounting of
wheels on a garden tractor. The flat washers allow for equal load distribution
across the wheel for additional strength, and they prevent the socket from
marking the wheel. Torque to 50 ft. lbs. $15.00 per set of 10, plus
shipping & handling. |
 Zinc-Plated Tapered Lug/Wheel
Nuts for Mounting of Steel Wheels. 7/16-20 UNF thread size. Along with studs
(above È), these make for easier mounting
of wheels on a garden tractor. Torque to 50 ft. lbs. NOTE: The mounting
holes in steel garden tractor wheels will need to be drilled (enlarged) to
21/32" to allow for these lug nuts to tighten properly and keep the wheel
centered with the axle. $15.00 per set of 10, plus shipping &
handling. |
 Chrome Acorn Closed-End
Tapered Lug/Wheel Nuts for Mounting of Steel Wheels. 7/16-20 UNF thread size.
Along with studs (above È), these make
for easier mounting of wheels on a garden tractor. NOTE: The mounting
holes in steel garden tractor wheels will need to be drilled (enlarged) to
21/32" to allow for these lug nuts to tighten properly and keep the wheel
centered with the axle. Torque to 50 ft. lbs. $25.00 per set of
10, plus shipping & handling. |
Internal Brake VS External Brake Transaxles -
Many professional pullers prefer to use the internal brake transaxle so the rear wheels can be set closer to the tractor frame, allowing for a narrower wheelbase. This require the driver to lean less when heading toward the boundary line, and the tractor can pull more straight down the track.
To convert a Cub Cadet external brake transaxle into an internal brake design, a front gear reduction housing, brake pad retainer, brake link, brake lever, push rod, pivot pin, brake pads, disc and the lower main shaft, off/out of an internal brake transaxle are required. The opposite will need to be done when converting a Cub Cadet internal brake transaxle into an external brake design. It's exactly easier (and less costly) to acquire an entire internal or external brake transaxle (in good condition, of course), install it, and fabricate or install the required brake linkage. All IH Cub Cadet tractor frames, except the "Original", are made for use with either transaxle.
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assistance, and FREE honest and accurate technical support, please contact:
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