Starter Motors, Electrical and
Charging Systems
Updated 8/26/06 (Click Refresh.) | Jump to...
- Using a Remote Starter Cart (updated 3/13/08)
- Testing the output voltage of a stator. (added 6/16/06)
- Cub Cadet Factory Wiring Diagrams (http://www.cubfaq.com/wiringdiagrams.html)
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Testing the Starting Circuit
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To test the starting circuit on practically any lawn, garden or larger tractor, first, make sure that the battery is fully charged and in good condition, and the cables have a good connection. If the battery is satisfactory and the connections are good, using either a screwdriver, metal rod or jumper wire, activate the starter solenoid by jumping across the large terminal on the solenoid where the heavy battery wire connects, to the small terminal on the solenoid where the starter switch connects. If the solenoid makes a single click sound and if starter motor spins, then the solenoid (and starter motor) is good. If nothing happens, check the wire connections on the terminals and that the solenoid is properly grounded. If it is grounded and still nothing happens, or if the solenoid makes a continuous clicking sound, replace the solenoid. If the ignition switch won't activate the solenoid, then check for a blown fuse, the wiring, safety switches or replace the starter switch.
When testing the starting circuit with a fully charged jumper battery, connect the negative lead to the ground of the tractor and touch the positive lead directly to the terminal on the starter motor. If the engine cranks, then the problem is in the solenoid, starter switch or wiring. But if it just spins without engaging into the flywheel, then the gear teeth is bad or the gear is binding on the spiral. But if the starter motor does nothing or turns slow, then either the bushings needs cleaning and lubricating or it's burned up. Or, the engine itself could be causing the starter to turn slow due to too heavy oil for weather conditions or damage inside the engine.
How to Connect the Wires on the Starter Solenoid -
If the solenoid has just one small terminal, this means that the mounting bracket is grounded internally. But if it has two small terminals, the solenoid must be grounded to the tractor frame by means of the mounting bracket. Connect one small terminal to the starter switch and the other to the ground of the tractor or negative post on the battery. When electric current is applied, the two small terminals activates a magnetic field within the solenoid so the plunger that's connected to the brass disc inside it can make contact across the two larger terminals to complete the circuit from the battery positive (+) post to the starter motor. This design eliminates the use of a very heavy duty starter switch and heavy wiring throughout the starting circuit.
On a solenoid having two small terminals, the one that's marked with an "S" goes to the starter switch. It activates the solenoid so power can be connected from the battery through the solenoid to the starter. The "I" terminal is for the ignition on certain older Ford vehicles ('56 to '88) with point ignition. When this type of solenoid is used on a garden tractor, just use the "S" terminal only.
Using the Right Type of Starter for Your Particular Engine - Top of page
You're probably wondering with increased compression and with
a high performance camshaft with no compression release on a single cylinder
Kohler engine, what models of gear starters are available that's capable
of cranking the engine with no problem. Well, for the 10hp, 30ci/12hp and
37ci/16hp engines, the OEM gear starter seem to work pretty well as long
as the engine has a heavy [steel] flywheel. But if you need more cranking
power or if you need a quality starter for a 50+ c.i. highly modified engine,
then most import starters have a higher cranking capacity due to more wire
windings on the armature. Or the starter that fits Kohler's twin cylinder
engine models KT17, KT19, KT21, MV16, M18 and M20 can be adapted to the K-series
single cylinder cast iron block engines. The gear teeth on the twin cylinder
starter are a perfect match for the ring gear on the K-series flywheel! But
to use a twin cylinder starter on a single cylinder engine, a sturdy special-made
bracket must be fabricated to mount the starter on side of the block. Also,
certain [high-torque] automotive starters with a special bracket can be used
to crank a high compression Kohler engine, as long as the gear teeth meshes
correctly with the Kohler gear ring and the starter rotates in the right
direction, which is counter-clockwise when facing the shaft.
Popular automotive starters for use on a Kohler engine are as follows:
- Honda - made by Nippondenso or Mitsuba (clockwise rotation - PTO side mounting)
- Nissan - made by Hitachi (counter-clockwise rotation - flywheel side mounting)
- Subaru - made by Nippondenso (counter-clockwise rotation - flywheel side mounting)
- Toyota - made by Nippondenso, used on Camry cars (counter-clockwise rotation - flywheel side mounting)
In some cases, it's not the starter motor who is the culprit of not being able to crank a big cubic inch or high compression engine. Sometimes the ignition timing can be so advanced, the starter tries to crank the engine to start it, but the advanced spark causes the engine to "kick back." To fix this problem, use the same starting technique as the Tecumseh cast iron engine with the crank trigger ignition. Install two separate switches - one being a push button to crank the engine and the other being an ordinary OFF/ON toggle switch. Then crank the engine, choke it and then flip the [ignition] switch to "put the spark to it." This should allow it to start every time.
If an engine is slow at cranking
over or will barely crank over, then the first thing to check is the condition
of the engine. If it cranks over somewhat easy by hand, then it's probably
OK. The next thing to check is the condition of the battery. If it tests
good, then check the wire connections and start solenoid (if equipped). If
they're OK, then the lat thing to check is the condition of the starter motor.
Disassemble it and observe the condition of the wire windings on the armature.
If they're dark brown in color and have a burnt smell, then the motor is
burned up. But if the windings are light brown or "bronze" in color, then
they're in good condition. Clean the commutator (the part on the armature
where the brushes make contact) and shaft where the bushings make contact
with emery cloth in a metal lathe. Before reassembling the starter, lightly
lubricate the bushings with motor oil. If the engine still won't crank over
easy, then either the ignition timing is too advanced or the compression
release isn't working. Too much valve clearances could also cause hard cranking.
Some starter motors are American made, some are imported. But most are made of excellent quality and manufactured to exceed OEM specifications.
Most quality-made starter motors are designed to last the life of an engine.
Therefore, if a good starter burns up prematurely, then this means that it's
cranked an engine too long at one time. All starters, including automotive
starters, are 6 volt motors operating off of 12 volts. That's what gives
them extra torque to crank over an engine. So if one is spun too long, the
excessive voltage will burn up the windings. The longer it's spun, the hotter
it gets, which will cause the insulating (varnish) coating on the wire windings
to melt. When the coating melts, the windings make contact with each other
and become shorted out, and you have a burned up starter on your hands. That's
why most owner's and repair manuals say to never crank an engine longer than
2 minutes at a time without allowing adequate time for the starter to cool
before cranking it again. (If an engine won't start in 2 minutes, then
it obviously needs a major tune up or repair!) By the way, I sell increased
torque starters. They're capable of cranking over a 50.5 cubic inch pulling
engine with no problem. They're $120.00 each, plus shipping.
Be gentle whenever handling a starter motor, especially one with permanent
magnets! Never abuse it by dropping it on the floor or hitting it with a
hammer! (Some people think that it will fix a starter by striking it with
a hammer if it fails to operate.) Doing this could, or most likely will,
crack or break the fragile ceramic magnets inside and render it totally
useless.
If you need a starter motor to crank your engine without hesitation,
you'd be better off purchasing a brand new one or one that's been professionally
rebuilt. Never put full trust in a used electric starter to crank your engine
unless your receive an unconditional guarantee that it's good. Otherwise,
there's a chance that it's either 90% wore out, burned up or the magnets
are broken, and the owner is just trying to sell "junk" to another person.
A starter may look nice and clean on the outside, but it's what's on the
inside that matters. Some of these questionable starters are sold "AS IS"
on places like eBay. So remember these words... "BUYER BEWARE!" By the way
- I'm not trying to sell you a new starter here, I'm only informing you of
the facts.
|
Before reassembling a starter
motor, first a brush holder tool must be fabricated from a thin piece of
sheet metal to keep the brushes in their pockets before the end cap (with
the brushes) can be reinstalled onto the starter housing.
Widening the Tractor Frame for Use with a Large Flywheel and Gear Starter Motor -
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The upper-mount gear starter can't be installed on the very early 10hp (K241) engine blocks because there's no indention in the block just above the starter's mounting holes. These blocks were designed for the starter/generator only. |
To convert virtually any small gas engine to electric gear start, the parts that's needed are: Top of page
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The parts needed to convert a Kohler K-series engine with a starter/generator to a gear starter are as follows:
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If you want to do away with the old heavy, battery draining, power-robbing
starter/generator on a narrow frame Cub Cadet, and install a lightweight
gear starter motor along with the larger 9-1/2" diameter flywheel on a Kohler
engine, the frame rails must be widened. To do so, with the engine removed,
cut a slot halfway down into the frame where the front of the flywheel shroud
sits. For the rear cut, measure 17" back from the front of the frame (to
where the metal bends for the clutch cover), and then make the cut there.
Then using a large pipe wrench or equivalent, bend or spread the frame rails
outward 11" from the front of the frame. Use a (large) flywheel shroud as
a gauge to determine how wide the rails would need to be. This will eliminate
having to put the engine in and take it back out again. Spread the frame
5" forward (towards front of tractor) from where the slot was cut. Then weld
a gusset into each wedge (or cut) opening.
Widening the frame rails as mentioned above and then properly welding in the gussets shouldn't weaken it. But make sure that the frame is in fact straight before welding in the gussets. Because sometimes it can bend during the process of widening the frame. To prevent the frame from bending overtime when doing ground-pounding wheelies, weld in the gussets on both the inside and outside of the frame. Put down a good bead of weld, too. If the frame is bent, only slightly, this will interfere with the operation and proper alignment of the clutch and driveshaft.
But if you prefer to use the starter/generator when pulling, remember this: the generator part requires less than 1hp of engine power to charge a fully drained battery. Therefore, if you were to install a switch to turn off the field windings in the starter/generator, this will prevent it from charging the battery. Which will allow the engine to produce more power.
Advertisement: (updated 1/20/07)
| If you need a new gear starter motor or starter solenoid,
please contact me, Brian Miller, at A-1 Miller's
Small Engine & Specialty Shop (1501 West Old Plank Rd., Columbia,
Missouri. 65203 | Phone: 1-573-875-4033). Please call any day between 12
noon and 8:00 p.m. Central time, and please be patient because I stutter.
Fax: 1-573-449-7347. You can also contact me through Yahoo! Messenger:
|
|
 High torque gear starter motor for 8hp (K181) single cylinder
cast iron block Kohler K-series engines. 16 tooth gear. Same dimensions as
OEM Kohler starter, but has twice the wire windings than OEM Kohler starters,
giving it about 25% more cranking power to crank an engine without a compression
release! Replaces Kohler part #'s A232981, 4109801-S, 41-098-01-S, 4109803-S,
41-098-03-S, 4109807-S, 41-098-07-S, 4109808-S, 41-098-08-S.
|
|
 High torque, upper-mount gear starter motor for 10hp-18hp single
cylinder cast iron block Kohler K-series engines. 10 tooth gear. Same dimensions
as OEM Kohler starter, but has twice the wire windings than OEM Kohler starters,
giving it about 25% more cranking power! This starter, along with a full
size automotive battery, is capable of cranking a 50.5 cid engine, or an
engine without a compression release! (Replaces Kohler part #'s 45-098-09S,
45-098-07, A-237510, A-237534, 237131 & 237564)
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 High torque,
low-mount gear starter motor for 10hp-18hp single cylinder cast iron block
Kohler K-series engines. 10 tooth gear. Has twice the wire windings than
OEM Kohler starters, giving it about 25% more cranking power! This starter,
along with a full size automotive battery, is capable of cranking a 50.5
cid engine, or an engine without a compression release! (Replaces Kohler
part #'s 45-098-10S, 237511A & A-237511)
|
|
 High torque,
starter motor for Magnum models M8 through M16 (8hp through 16hp) single
cylinder cast iron block Kohler Magnum engines. 10 tooth gear. Has twice
the wire windings than OEM Kohler starters, giving it about 25% more cranking
power! This starter, along with a full size automotive battery, is capable
of cranking a 50.5 cid engine! (Replaces Kohler part #'s 41 098 04, 41 098
06 & 41 098 06-S) Length: 7-1/4"; mounting studs: two 1/4"-20; o.d. housing:
3-1/16"; center to center mount: 2-1/2"'.
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 High torque
gear starter motor for KT17, KT19, MV16 and M18 twin cylinder Kohler engines.
Has twice the wire windings than OEM Kohler starters, giving it about 25%
more cranking power! This starter, with a fabricated bracket (not included),
and a full size automotive battery, can definitely crank over a 50.5 cid
single cylinder engine! The 9-tooth gear on this starter will mesh perfectly
with the K-series and Magnum single cylinder flywheel gear teeth and it'll
crank the engine easier with the smaller gear. (Replaces Kohler part #'s
52-098-03, 52-098-09, 52-098-12 and 52-098-12-S)
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 High torque gear
starter motor for V-twin cylinder Kohler engines CH12.5, CH13, CH14, CH15,
CH18, CH20, CH22, CH25; CV12.5, CV15S, CV16, CV18, CV20, CV22, CV25. Replaces:
Delco 10455513, John Deere AM108390, Kohler 24-098-01, 24-098-03, 25-098-08,
25-098-09, Nippondenso 128000-748, 228000-264, UT SM51747, Lester: 17628.
Notes: 10-tooth drive starter. Replaces Nippondenso & United Technology
starters w/ 9-tooth drive (Lester 17628).
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| New quality starter motors for other makes and models of small engines are also available. Please call or e-mail me for your needs. | |
 Starter brush
kit. Replaces Kohler part # 48-755-15, 52-755-15, 82-755-28, 82-755-28-S.
Gravely 018610. Fits models: K91 through K582, KT17-KT19, M18-M20, MV16-MV20
and CV12.5. Also fits the starters above. $16.00 each kit, plus shipping.
Part No. 26-9219 |
|
 New 15 Amp Stator
Kit. Fits Kohler single cylinder 8hp-16hp flathead, 18hp OHV cast iron block
and flathead twin cylinder Kohler engines. Replaces (OEM): Kohler part #
A-237329, 234859, 237329, 237330, 237331, 237399, 237716, 237878-S, 47 085
01, 47 085 11. Fits most Kohler engines (5-1/2" o.d. charging ring) except
some John Deeres. Made in U.S.A. Part # 055-489 $89.00 each, plus
shipping.
Used 15 Amp Stator Assembly. Same as above except used and in working condition. $40.00 each, plus shipping.
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|
 Universal mount
light-duty starter solenoids. Designed for most makes and models of lawn
tractors, garden tractors, etc. Available in 3 terminal and 4 terminal design.
Studs: 1/4"-20 NC, 10-32 NF. Please specify which one you need.
$11.00 each, plus shipping.
NOTE: On the solenoid with two small terminals, one connects to the starter switch, and the other connects to the ground. |
|
 Universal usage heavy duty
plastic body solenoid. Four terminal design. Grounded through mounting base.
12 volt. Studs: 5/16"-18 NC, 10-32 NF. $18.00 each, plus shipping.
NOTE: On solenoids having two small terminals, the one that's marked with an "S" connects to the starter switch. It activates the solenoid so power can be directed from the battery through the solenoid to the starter. And the one marked with an "I" connects directly to the + terminal on the ignition coil on certain older Ford vehicles ('56 to '88) with point ignition. When used on a garden tractor, just use the "S' terminal only. |
 Universal usage EXTRA heavy
duty all metal body solenoid. Three terminal design. Grounded through mounting
base. 12 volt. Studs: 5/16"-24 NC, 10-32 NF. $20.00 each, plus shipping. |
 Starter/generator
V-belt for Cub Cadet models 71, 72, 73, 86, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108,
109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149 and 169. (Size 3L32;
3/8" wide x 32" long; Cub Cadet part # 401960R1) $6.00 each, plus
shipping. |
|
New 15 Amp Voltage-Rectifier
Regulator. Replaces: Kohler 25-403-03-S, 25-755-03, 25-755-03-S, 41-403-01,
41-403-06. John Deere AM34738, AM106357. $50.00 each, plus shipping.
New 15 Amp Voltage Regulator
for Starter/Generators. Replaces: Briggs & Stratton 295924; Delco 1118988;
Tecumseh 32089. $65.00 each, plus shipping.
To reduce weight on a garden pulling tractor, remove all starting
mechanisms and install a machined billet aluminum starter pulley on
the crankshaft PTO end and then use a 2 wheel remote starter cart with a
V-belt to crank the engine to start it.
All starter carts crank the engine from the right side of the tractor, when sitting on the tractor. All Ford tractor starter motors turn clockwise when facing the shaft, and 99% of all small gas engines also turn clockwise when facing the flywheel. So make sure that the starter is mounted so it'll turn the same direction as the engine. Position the starter motor on the cart as pictured here, with the shaft facing your left when standing behind the cart. But if you have a different type of starter motor on a starter cart that rotates in reverse of normal engine rotation, then the belt will need to be reversed to resemble a figure 8 to rotate the engine in the right direction.
To fabricate a remote starter cart, use a 6 volt starter motor that's made for a 2N, 8N or 9N Ford farm tractor. A 12 volt starter won't have enough strength to crank over an average pulling engine. Then attach a 2" diameter steel or cast iron V-groove belt pulley on the shaft of the starter. Mount a heavy duty 12 volt automotive battery at the base of the cart, a starter solenoid to activate the starter and a heavy-duty push-button type switch to activate the solenoid. Then, install a small motorcycle battery on the tractor itself just to power the ignition and/or electric fuel pump. And always charge up both batteries before every pull! Click this eBay link if you need a Ford starter for your starter cart.
A small block Chevrolet starter motor assembly would also make an excellent starter for use on an auxiliary starter cart. A small diameter V-groove pulley in the starter mounting housing will need to installed in place of the starter drive and the V-belt will need to be installed on the pulley inside the housing.
Testing the output voltage of a stator -
To test the output voltage of
a stator, connect between the two wires coming from the stator to a volt
meter set at more than 28 volts in the AC setting. Then start the engine,
run it at 3,600 rpms and the reading should be 28 volts or more. If it's
less than 28 volts, then the stator is bad. And to check the voltage regulator,
with a good stator, connect the regulator to the stator (two outer terminals)
and test the voltage at the center terminal on the regulator. If the voltage
is 14.5 volts, then the regulator is good. If less than 14.5 volts or no
voltage, then the regulator is bad. Go here for more information:
Easy Starter/Generator Test
(http://cubfaq.com/sg.html) or
Charging system
troubleshooting (http://ihregistry.com/ref/charging.html).
By the way
- Alternators (stator under the flywheel) produce AC (alternating current)
of electricity. Therefore, they require a "rectifier-regulator" to convert
the AC to DC (direct current) in order to recharge the battery and power
electrical accessories. A generator (as the starter/generator) produces DC
electricity. They require a voltage regulator so the battery will not be
overcharged. The battery's only purpose is to start the engine and power
electrical accessories when the engine isn't running. Once the battery is
fully charged though, the alternator or generator then carries the load of
the electrical accessories. The older rectifier-regulator with fins is the
same as the newer ones with no fins. They still work the same, too.
The rectifier-regulator must match the amperage output of the stator it's
connected to. If a 15 amp rectifier-regulator is used with a 25 or 30 amp
stator, the rectifier-regulator will burn up. The starter/generators and
voltage regulators used on all garden tractors are rated at 15 amps. And
a voltage regulator can't be used with a stator, nor the rectifier-regulator
can be used with a generator.
To connect an alternator stator... the two leads from the stator connects to the two outer terminals on the rectifier-regulator. The center terminal on the rectifier-regulator then connects to the battery's + post or the ignition switch that connects to the battery's + post. It's that simple. And the rectifier-regulator has diodes built-in. So there's no need to add diodes in the circuit.
Linked pages to my parts & services:
Please click HERE, e-mail me at pullingtractor@aol.com or call me at 1-573-875-4033 if you need machine work performed, repairs made, various parts, if your business would like to help sponsor my web sites or if you'd like to make a donation towards my web sites. Please call between 12 noon and 8:00 p.m. Central time, and please be patient because I stutter.
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